WIP
I'll start this off with a few links, will add more when I get more time.

SM codes
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=221163

SVM
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=306848&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

Thanks Marc - I think this is a good idea.

Is there a link with the basic navigation controls in the service menu - like how exit without saving and how to save your settings?

OVERSCAN
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=312716

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
OVERSCAN

MENU-0357
Scroll modes - AUDIO
Scroll items - VIDEO
Save - ENTER
Cancel - Cancel
Exit - Menu

MODE - Def Jungle
Horizontal Width - HWID
Vertical Height - VHGT

MENU-0359 for geometry SM

Misc - 6
Coarse - 5
Fine - 4

Color (RGB) - AUDIO
Item Scroll - VIDEO
Cancel- CANCEL
Save and Exit - MENU

Thanks Marc.

Very Very useful info.

So, I've started to do basic calibration on my brother's 55813. I used AVIA and DVE to setup Color, Hue, Contrast and Brightness.

I have adjusted these settings the best I could using these discs and I'm pretty happy with the color and hue. Skin tone looks great and colors look right to me.

But I seem to see a lot of grainyness specially on dark images. I used the Lobby scene on the Matrix and the back of Neo's jacket didn't look right. "Grainy" is the only word I can think of to describe it. If I remember correctly, I have Brightness at 32 and Contrast at 31 (31 being half-point).

I won't have a chance to go see the set till about this weekend again and would like to hear some suggestions/pointers on how I may resolve this.

Thanks

Nice thread Marc.

Originally posted by iqwertyi
But I seem to see a lot of grainyness specially on dark images. I used the Lobby scene on the Matrix and the back of Neo's jacket didn't look right. "Grainy" is the only word I can think of to describe it. If I remember correctly, I have Brightness at 32 and Contrast at 31 (31 being half-point). Make sure brightness is set properly with DVE (its patterns are better because it includes pluge).

Calibrate SHARPNESS and turn SVM off. View sharpness patterns to see if off is really off in the 813.

No matter how much you tweak your Mitsubishi set using this stuff, I would STRONGLY suggest a greyscale adjustment done by an ISF professional. If you can pay $1500-4000 for your TV then you can afford another $400 investment into a professional ISF calibration. I personally suggest Gregg Loewen (www.lionav.com) it will make a HUGE difference in the PQ and the enjoyment you get from your set.

I'll try to recalibrate with DVE and I did have the SVM off. But I never checked with te sharpness pattern. I'll try that this weekend.

Another thing my brother just called me about. Everything I've mentioned so far is what I had noticed when calibrating his set over the weekend. Last night he was watching Finding Nemo with progressive scan player, and noticed a glow around all the fish. I asked him to check the settings and it looked like they went back to default (brightness was all the way up). Now, was there something I was suppose to do (like hit "save") or something to keep the settings. I didn't notice any info on this on the manual.

As for the ISF, I'd do it if it was mine. And I'm trying to convince him to get it calibrated professionally.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Originally posted by iqwertyi
I asked him to check the settings and it looked like they went back to default (brightness was all the way up). Now, was there something I was suppose to do (like hit "save") or something to keep the settings. I didn't notice any info on this on the manual.

Make sure you adjust the values in the menu settings and not directly from the input. You need to go in the menu and select the input. Then adjust the A/V setting to the memory. Otherwise they will go back to default as you described if adjusted from the input.

Originally posted by AnthonyB
No matter how much you tweak your Mitsubishi set using this stuff, I would STRONGLY suggest a greyscale adjustment done by an ISF professional. If you can pay $1500-4000 for your TV then you can afford another $400 investment into a professional ISF calibration. I personally suggest Gregg Loewen (www.lionav.com) it will make a HUGE difference in the PQ and the enjoyment you get from your set. check your PMs

Originally posted by iqwertyi
Last night he was watching Finding Nemo with progressive scan player, and noticed a glow around all the fish It's the disc

Originally posted by AnthonyB
No matter how much you tweak your Mitsubishi set using this stuff, I would STRONGLY suggest a greyscale adjustment done by an ISF professional. If you can pay $1500-4000 for your TV then you can afford another $400 investment into a professional ISF calibration. I personally suggest Gregg Loewen (www.lionav.com) it will make a HUGE difference in the PQ and the enjoyment you get from your set. I SECOND :cool:

Thanks Kipp,
I'll do make sure I go that route the next time I set the unit.
I'll check Nemo again once we do this. We did play Nemo on my set and there was a slight glow, but he tells me that his was way more pronounced.

Great thread, just purchased a 48413 this past weekend and it gets delivered Friday. I already had DVE but heard Avia was better, so ordered it also. Will be coming back to this thread on Friday. Thanks again.

By the way, should I use DVE for some calibrations and Avia for others, or will Avia just do? A couple of posts above stated the DVE included pluge for setting up brightness, so I just wanted to make sure.

Got a chance to recalibrate my brother's 55813 with Avia and DVE. After calibrating Contrast and Brightness the best I could with the two disc's, I played Nemo again. Still very distinct glow on all the fish (especially noticable with the shark scene).

With AVIA and DVE, contrast was set to 30 and Brightness to 31. While playing Nemo, I dropped the brightness until the glow's were no longer visible. The final brightness value was 17. This totally changed the picture. It looks great now. Popped in Matrix lobby scene and Neo's jacket looks much much better now.

Now, here's what I don't understand, when I placed AVIA back on, the setting I have is way below the optimal level. But it looks good. For now, I'm keeping the setting since if I set to to AVIA's level, it just looks bad.

Anyone else have experienced this?

That's weird, I did just the opposite, I dropped contrast down to around 17 and left brightness at 31. I guess as long as it looks good thats all that matters.

I have used AVIA plenty of times with my front projector (along with CRT sets) and it always worked very nicely. For some reason (might be my lack of experience with RPTVs) I had no luck with my 55413. I ended up setting everything up pretty much by eye with Contrast 16, Brightness 30, Color 22, and Color Temp Low.

I was trying to do the reverse (lower contrast and higher brightness), but the picture didn't look the same. I'm going to play with these settings once more and see if I can drop the contrast instead.

Thanks Marc, looking forward to it.

The contrast did not show any color tint. I must say, the contrast is the hardest for me to properly set.

Using the Denon DVD-900

What DVD players are you guys using? You must make sure that you have it set for 0 IRE (darker) black cutoff vs. 7.5 IRE (lighter). Also, disable black enhancement on the Mits.

I use DVE to set contrast and brightness.

I use AVIA to set sharpness, color, tint, and color decoding. DVE can be used, but AVIA has better patterns (especially color decoder check). AVIA also has Y/C delay check pattern.

Use DVE gray scale patterns to evaluate your grayscale. You should not be able to detect any color tint when viewing them by eye. If you do, it is way off (you can't accurately evaluate without test equipment). If your grayscale is way off, a perfected color decoder won't give you a pleasing picture (and you should consider pro-calibration).

I will post a quick guide for adjusting color/tint/color decoding once I look at the manual for the x13 series.

ADJUSTING COLOR/TINT/COLOR DECODING

Make sure AUTO COLOR CORRECTION is OFF in Color Balance menu and make sure perfect color sliders are centered (you will come back here "after" adjusting color/tint in user menu).

Adjust color and tint with DVE or AVIA (blue bars) using the BLUE filter.

/For advanced users
The color filters are imperfect, you can check your work and fine tune by going into the geometry SM (MENU-0359) and displaying BLUE only (1 2 and 3 select each color gun seperately). You cannot make any adjustments in this mode so you will have to repeat a couple iterations backing out and adjusting to achieve perfection.

Once color and tint are calibrated, you access the color decoder back in PerfectColor in the Color Balance menu. Here you will adjust using the red and green filters (advanced users check your work and fine tune in SM). It is easiest to use the AVIA RED and GREEN BAR patterns respectively. But the standard DVE patterns can also be used (avia labels the proper reference points for you).

Use magenta, red, and yellow sliders to adjust for RED
Use green and cyan to adjust for GREEN

These can be interactive so recheck BLUE, RED, and GREEN using filters or SM and reiterrate as needed until you are satisfied.

You can verify your work using the color decoder check pattern.

Good luck:cool:

Originally posted by iqwertyi
The contrast did not show any color tint. I must say, the contrast is the hardest for me to properly set.

Using the Denon DVD-900 What are you trying to do? You shouldn't be looking for color tint when adjusting contrast.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news...but the Denon 900 is a pretty poor DVD player. It has some extreme high frequency rolloff which yield a very softened picture. I recommend ebaying it and getting another player (Denon 910 and 1200 are improved but still not great).

I'm not sure I'm acurately adjusting my color on my 65413 with the Avia disk. On the disk's color and tint adjustment screen, the flashing boxes that you use to adjust color are at the very edge of the screen. This seems to create a problem because the left edge of my TV is slightly shaded blue and the right edge is slightly shaded yellow. I'm thinking my adjustments would turn out differently if the boxes were in the center of the screen. I end up with tint - 27, color - 34. Any ideas about this?

Originally posted by shaneotool
This seems to create a problem because the left edge of my TV is slightly shaded blue and the right edge is slightly shaded yellow. ???

Can you post a picture of your convergence grid?

If you are concerned about the edges. Put the TV into gray sidebar mode for your adjustments.

---edit - corrected spelling:cool:

Marc, thanks for this thread. It is certainly useful. My 55813 has noticeable overscan which I'd like to do away with as much as possible. I'll try looking to the SM menus for some of the rest of the things you've mentioned. I calibrated my set with DVE but I'll go back with Avia on some of the things you recommended.

BTW, the Tweeter in Nashville would like your contact info, if you're interested. They would like to be able to refer someone to an ISF-certified tech when customers ask (and they do ask). PM me if you want more details.

If we keep the ?s and tweaks here...it will be easier for other folks to find the info in the future.:cool:

Marc, I see you use both DVE and Avia. As one who's new to this, and the owner of a 55813 (which I think looks darn good now, but I will obsess until I'm sure), which disk would you recommend as the first to use? Sounds like Avia, but will it do the contrast and brightness as well?

I do have a nice HTS, too, so will want to check its calibration as well at some point. I read that Avia doesn't do DD 5.1 or DTS, and doesn't do the sub LFE specifically, but I don't know if those are really issues (I'm no audiophile or videophile, just want to get mine the best I can for our ears and eyes).

Thanks for starting this thread!

.. oh, yeah, in one of the posts above here, it recommends turn Film Mode off unless the pic was created in Film mode. How does ascertain that? Thanks again.

AVIA has patterns for contrast and brigtness as well (I just like DVEs patterns better).

AVIA does do DD 5.1 and has probably the best sub LFE tones. AVIA doesn't do DTS or 6.1 which DVE does.
Originally posted by cagey
.. oh, yeah, in one of the posts above here, it recommends turn Film Mode off unless the pic was created in Film mode. How does ascertain that? Thanks again. The easiest rule of thumb is use FILM for movies, VIDEO for everything else. If you are using HD or progressive DVD, this setting has no effect.

CONVERGENCE AND FOCUS DISCUSSION
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=343258

Is there any difference in the "tweakablilty" of the different Mitsubishi model levels? I'm wondering what advantages there would be in the WS-55813 over the WS-55613. Thanks in advance...

The 813 should be able to be tweaked to a lower overscan % than the 613.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
CONVERGENCE AND FOCUS DISCUSSION
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=343258

I think it would be a good idea to merge these threads.

Hi fellow Mitsubishi owners! I currently have a 65869 and I am very happy with it. However, I have a 32" in my family room and want to upgrade to something new. Now it is between a DLP and Mits in the 47-48" range. What would you suggest I do, this room has a fair amount of light, but I can control it. Also would an ISF calibration be worth it on my 65869 since it is coming up on its 2nd birthday?

The 48613 would be an excellent choice.

Originally posted by JunkyardDogg
Also would an ISF calibration be worth it on my 65869 since it is coming up on its 2nd birthday? YES

I would actually go with the DLP for your bright family room, since you've got the 65" CRT for critical movie viewing.

Thanks for the help. I will look further into the calibration. One quick question. On my digital tuner on the set, it seems that the red seems to bleed off of edges of lights and other bright objects. Do you know what this is?

Originally posted by JunkyardDogg
Thanks for the help. I will look further into the calibration. One quick question. On my digital tuner on the set, it seems that the red seems to bleed off of edges of lights and other bright objects. Do you know what this is? CONVERGENCE AND FOCUS DISCUSSION
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=

There are several methods for electrical FOCUS. AGAIN, DO NOT TOUCH THE SCREEN VRs!!!

The easiest is with the single crosshair in the basic convergence menu. Seperate the RED BLUE and GREEN (no need to move them more than an inch) so that you have three seperate crosses. Adjust focus as sharp as possible. Hit cancel to return the crosshairs to original convergence.

You can do the same in the advanced convergence screens. I seperate the middle and the edges to check overall focus (mid and edges). Again, exit with CANCEL not MENU to return convergence.

ADVANCED instructions:
The best way to calibrate focus is to use the AVIA test patterns, the geometry service menu to seperate R G and B guns, and to stretch the raster.

Stretch the raster in the DEF/CRT JUNGLE SM by increasing VSCN to 15 (make note of your default). You will return this back to your default when you are done.

Then go into the geometry SM so you can seperated the R G and B guns using 1 2 and 3 on the remote respectively. Use the AVIA hatch patterns (I prefer circle and dot hatch) to focus each.

Return VSCN to default and you are done.

I have done the elec focus it seemed off VERY little if it all. I'm still lacking focus a bit in the center, and more towards the edges. I'm assuming this can be corrected by doing my own manual focus, or by having a pro come in and do it? I more concerned with the set being ok, just needing adjustment, than with it being perfect RIGHT NOW. Does this sound like something that is easily corrected with a manual focus?

Thanks!

Suppose I have made a few raster adjustments using the COARSE GREEN Sub Function and the convergence is off on my Mits 55413. Do I correct this with COARSE RED and COARSE BLUE convergence adjustments? Or, should I just corrent with the using advanced convergence, which seems possible?

Thanks

Originally posted by jakekit
I have done the elec focus it seemed off VERY little if it all. I'm still lacking focus a bit in the center, and more towards the edges. I'm assuming this can be corrected by doing my own manual focus, or by having a pro come in and do it? I more concerned with the set being ok, just needing adjustment, than with it being perfect RIGHT NOW. Does this sound like something that is easily corrected with a manual focus?

Thanks! YES

Originally posted by shawn12341234
Suppose I have made a few raster adjustments using the COARSE GREEN Sub Function and the convergence is off on my Mits 55413. Do I correct this with COARSE RED and COARSE BLUE convergence adjustments? Or, should I just corrent with the using advanced convergence, which seems possible?

Thanks Either. I like using the COARSE convergence adjustments because it allows me to display my own white geomtetry grids with AVIA (which allows for a more accurate convergence). Some folks just find this more confusing, so YMMV.

I've tried using the Samsung DVD-HD913 player with DVI output set to 1080i to do the calibration of the 55413 DVI input using DVE overscan reference pattern. The best I could get was 7.5% on the right. While on the left I could have gone down to 2.5%. It is also interesting to note that when I got the sammy TS160 it was very noticeable that I needed go into it setup to make a horizontal raster adjustment to the left to center the image. I've seen someone else question whether the Mits shifts the horizontal position when using the DVI input.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
The 813 should be able to be tweaked to a lower overscan % than the 613. Well, I got my WS-55613 last weekend, and it looks like the overscan is pretty reasonable (compared to my Toshiba upstairs, at least).

The most noticable flaw that I've noted is the blue focus is off on the left side and the red focus is off on the right. Also, I've had the set "reboot" twice on me so far, once while I was in on the 64-point grid tweaking the convergence. Since it's been less than a week, should I tell them to pick it up and bring me a new one?

Originally posted by Foxbat
The most noticable flaw that I've noted is the blue focus is off on the left side and the red focus is off on the right. Very common. Note that the red gun is on the left side and the blue is on the right.

I have never heard of a Mits rebooting. Must be the netcommand.

For the overscan tweakers, in Geometry SM:

HSTA = Horizontal positioning
VSTA = Vertical positioning

Make all geometry changes to GREEN (RED and BLUE will follow GREEN). You will have to do some convergence correction to finalize.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
I have never heard of a Mits rebooting. Must be the netcommand. Marc, is there a way to see what the Firmware Rev. is on my set? It has an October, 2003 build date on it.

Another WS-55613 owner at where I work said his rebooted once on him right after he got it, but he hasn't seen it happen since.

Also, is the AVS Forum the place to discuss NetCommand, connections, I/R codes, etc., or should I add the HomeTheaterSpot to my daily dose :) of websites?

Speaking of reboots, my set has exhibited what I think is that behavior a few times since its delivery 5 weeks ago. About once a week, the set will just cut off with the green power light blinking for about 10 seconds. Once the blinking stops, you can turn the set back on with no issues. I'd first seen this behavior when I was asking the set to tune in QAM unencrypted cable channels. The automatic channel search feature can't seem to weed out the encrypted channels of channels with other kinds of information from the real channels. If you tune to these bogus channels, the TV picture will just blink from a dark screen to a light screen repeatedly. Occasionally on some of these channels, the TV will just "scram" and do the same shutoff behavior I explained before. I had to end up deleting the bad channel information manually.

This is my last day with the 55813. Tweeter is bringing me a 65813 to replace it today. I'll see if it does the same thing.

Good infoOriginally posted by Sevenfeet
CRT JNGL

HWID: Horizontal Width
HKEY: Horizontal Keystone
VHET: Vertical Height
VLIN: Vertical Linearity
VSCN: Vertical S-correction
HPOS: Horizontall Position
VPOS: Vertical Position Note: Do not change HPOS and VPOS, use HSTA and VSTA in the Geometry SM for adjusting screen position.

I don't know much about netcommand (since my set doesn't have it). The spot is probably the best place to discuss it, or in the AVS HDTV Hardware forum.

Can people post their default VSCN values? It seems that some sets are coming defaulted with values other than 0.

Nevermind...I see from Kschorz's posting of a service manual page that the default on the new sets is 3.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=3126756&fullpage=1

I will see what happens to vertical overscan when reducing this to 0 on a new set soon. I will of course post the results.

Just wanted to chime in and say a big thanks to Marc for all of the time he spends helping everyone out around here. I think we can all say he has helped to bring a better veiwing experience into our homes!

I have a WS-55613 when it was exactly 1 week old, it cut off and the green led blinked perpetually. No matter what I tried, the led would just blink and the television would not turn on. One phone call to my dealer got me a new replacement delivered. I have had the new one for a month without a single problem.
According to the manual the television will turn off and the power led will blink for one minute if a power line fault is detected. I don't know what was wrong with my first one. I am just glad I bought it locally.

Originally posted by jakekit
Just wanted to chime in and say a big thanks to Marc for all of the time he spends helping everyone out around here. I think we can all say he has helped to bring a better veiwing experience into our homes! Thanks for the kind words:cool:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sevenfeet
[B]Speaking of reboots, my set has exhibited what I think is that behavior a few times since its delivery 5 weeks ago. About once a week, the set will just cut off with the green power light blinking for about 10 seconds. Once the blinking stops, you can turn the set back on with no issues. I'd first seen this behavior when I was asking the set to tune in QAM unencrypted cable channels. The automatic channel search feature can't seem to weed out the encrypted channels of channels with other kinds of information from the real channels. If you tune to these bogus channels, the TV picture will just blink from a dark screen to a light screen repeatedly. Occasionally on some of these channels, the TV will just "scram" and do the same shutoff behavior I explained before. I had to end up deleting the bad channel information manually.


My new (approx 2 weeks old) 65813 has also just done a "reset". Blinking green power light and then power off. Mine happened just as I switched to an off-the-air station but this never happened before today.

Also (again just starting today), I have been experiencing occasional audio dropouts (using Ant-DTV). Sometimes happens when I switch channels, once or twice just when viewing a channel. The audio just goes off for something like 5-10 seconds. At first I thought this was just "digital being digital" but now I'm concerned that there is something else going on.

As I said, all this just started happening today so I'm a bit concerned that there is something wrong with my set. Was wondering if anyone else had experienced problems.

TIA
Joe

The SM for xx313 and xx413 also says don't change the VLIN values in the Defl. Jungle Function. It also says the VHGT should be outside the range of -4 to +10 for NTSC and -10 to +5 for HD.

Could someone explain what horizontal and vertical linearity (HLIN and VLIN) adjustments are needed for and what they do?

could someone help me out. my vision isn't the best in the world (focus issues) and i'm having problems getting things set in via avia. what baseline (non-sm) settings are people using. i know every set it going to be alittle different but atleast it gets me a starting point. feel free to send them via PM so we don't clutter the discussion up.

thanks.
-J

Originally posted by shawn12341234
The SM for xx313 and xx413 also says don't change the VLIN values in the Defl. Jungle Function. It also says the VHGT should be outside the range of -4 to +10 for NTSC and -10 to +5 for HD.

Could someone explain what horizontal and vertical linearity (HLIN and VLIN) adjustments are needed for and what they do? Yes, it advises not to change VHGT-/+ from the default. There generally is no reason to unless you completly redo geometry from scratch (which I have done and VHGT outside of their recommended range has never caused me a problem).

If you want to see what the linearity setttings do, bring up crosshatch grid. You will notice the spacing between lines change as you adjust linearity. No reason to mess with this unless you have linearity problems.

Originally posted by uszkanni

My new (approx 2 weeks old) 65813 has also just done a "reset". Blinking green power light and then power off. Mine happened just as I switched to an off-the-air station but this never happened before today.

[/B]

The owner's manual talks about this issue being one of getting consistent clean power, in which they recommend getting a line conditioner. That's a good idea, but I can still get this unit to "scram" by tuning it to the occasional scrambled QAM cable channel.

One other bad thing about resets is that they tend to also reset all of the information on the input you were on and resets it to default (contrast, brightness, color settings, etc.). Make sure you write down your settings in case you have to re-enter them.

I have a new ws48413 and love it. Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question.

I cannot figure out how to get the screen procettor off my tv. The mitsubishi manual isn't very helpful. I have tried poking at it a bit and pulling on it, but I am afraid I'll damage the screen. Can someone clue me in on which direction to push or pull the clip? Any other tips? This is probably incredibly simple, I just don't know how the cllips come out and do not want to damage it.

Input appreciated.

Pull the clips directly out towards you, the guy who took mine off used a light piece of paperboard and a spackling tool, they aren't easy to remove (quite sticky) but it's worth it. make sure to recalibrate your TV using avia or VE afterwards, the shield is colortuned.

i used a butterknife

Originally posted by alpha21
i used a butterknife

I used a butterfly-knife, but was very careful.

Originally posted by taz291819
I used a butterfly-knife, but was very careful.

definately don't want to open/close it near the screen

Well I think my Mits 65413 may have exhibited the same "reboot" problem as others have stated above. I think it actually did it once before too and I just didn't realize it. But after this past weekend away, and coming back home to the Mits, nearly all the settings were reset to default as described above for Input-1. I spoke to my family and everyone swears that they did not enter the menu settings at all. However, none of them could confirm that the Mits turned off in the middle of viewing a show on the DTivo (pretty much the only remote they are allowed to use)

For those that have expereinced this reboot issue, were any of you using line conditioners as recommended above? I'm debating on wether to call Sears or not to check out the system as I have the extended warranty service with them.

My 55813 has done the "power" off thing 3-4 times since I bought it, just once since I bought a Panamax surge protector/line conditioner. I wonder what causes it.

However, I've never lost any settings. My set suddenly goes off and stays off for about a minute, while the green light flashes. But when I turn it back on, the settings are still there.

Definitely weird.

cagey: Was this power off done while viewing HD or SD?

SD - in fact, I may have been viewing dvd each time, but I can't be positive about that.

ok got the 73713 sat.
hd material looks spectacular with barely any adjustments.

the problem i am having is watching dvd's.

on anamorphic it is very blurry, when watching any non anamorphic i get what seems to be lines
as if it is not playing in progressive scan mode.
it may be what i think is called combing but i'm not sure.

it's only visable on moving images.

it's even worse on 4x3 stuff like tv shows.

if anyone is aware of the problem with the recent release of
monty python's meaning of life, this is exactly the trouble i'm having.

is this something that can be tweaked in sm?

i had a tosh for 4 years and new how to use the sm with my eyes closed
but i'm new to mits and havent found anything yet on how to get into sm and what buttons do what on the remote.

thanks.

I've officially joined the MITS family in the last couple weeks. I'm still in the process of getting everything cranking exactly the way I want it and just wanted to drop everyone a note of "thanks" for all the help with basic tweaking! I look forward to continuing to learn and hopefully the longer I'm here... the less stupid my questions will be!

Thanks!!!!

Brando

Originally posted by whotony
ok got the 73713 sat.
hd material looks spectacular with barely any adjustments.

the problem i am having is watching dvd's.

on anamorphic it is very blurry, when watching any non anamorphic i get what seems to be lines
as if it is not playing in progressive scan mode.
it may be what i think is called combing but i'm not sure.

it's only visable on moving images.

it's even worse on 4x3 stuff like tv shows.

if anyone is aware of the problem with the recent release of
monty python's meaning of life, this is exactly the trouble i'm having.

is this something that can be tweaked in sm?

i had a tosh for 4 years and new how to use the sm with my eyes closed
but i'm new to mits and havent found anything yet on how to get into sm and what buttons do what on the remote.

thanks.

so is there a way for me to tweak this without going into the tv?

dvd is almost unwatchable do to the lines that are appearing and fuzziness.

The blinking greenlights , accompanied by power off/autoboot during digital tv viewing of a 2003/2004 Mitsubishi RPTV is a common problem, described by many people here and at hometheaterspot.com forum, under Mitsubishi folder.
Even with clean ac power, or total netcommand redo, the blinking green light still recurs.
My 65611 has that a few times now, and research digs out many similar reports.

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=535679&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1

Originally posted by alpha21
i used a butterknife

I have a 55413 being delivered tonight. I see some of you have removed the screen protector. Our old Sony that is being replaced doesn't have one. We are considering removing this one because my wife can't stand seeing reflections on the screen. We have no kids or large pets. What's the consensus on doing this? Are those of you that have pleased with the results?

Mike

Mike,

IMHO, do it. :-)

I removed mine and prefer the satiny look as opposed to the shiny
look of the screen with it on. If you have any reflections in your viewing
area at all, removing the protective screen will eliminate them and add to
your viewing experience.

It's a little tricky, but there's plenty of threads to explain how it's done.

Ha, including this one!

Don

Originally posted by Charles R
I have used AVIA plenty of times with my front projector (along with CRT sets) and it always worked very nicely. For some reason (might be my lack of experience with RPTVs) I had no luck with my 55413. I ended up setting everything up pretty much by eye with Contrast 16, Brightness 30, Color 22, and Color Temp Low.

Charles,

When you say Color 22 do you mean you set each one of the colors in the menu to 22?

Mike

PS, Pardon me if I ask stupid questions. I just got my first HDTV last night.

Originally posted by mikelbsd
I have a 55413 being delivered tonight. I see some of you have removed the screen protector. Our old Sony that is being replaced doesn't have one. We are considering removing this one because my wife can't stand seeing reflections on the screen. We have no kids or large pets. What's the consensus on doing this? Are those of you that have pleased with the results?

Mike No brainer...get it off unless you have kids, pets, or clumsy adults around. ;)

Originally posted by mikelbsd
Charles,

When you say Color 22 do you mean you set each one of the colors in the menu to 22?

Mike

PS, Pardon me if I ask stupid questions. I just got my first HDTV last night.
I'm not sure about your set (I'm very new, just bought my first unit, a 55813), but if it's like him, there are different settings.

First, there are the usual settings you access by pressing "video" - brightness, contrast, tint, and Color. This is the "Color" he's talking about. Go there and immediately lower your contrast below 31. I imagine you Color and Tint are at 31 (the default).

Now, when I used Avia, I arrived at Color around 28, so it'll vary for your unit and lighting conditions.

The other Color area is when you go into Advanced and edit Perfect Color. Here everything is defaulted at 31. You'll very likely want to lower red, maybe to 18-24 (again, depends on your situation).

Please note(!) that all these settings are per input! So please, if nothing else, for every input, lower the Contrast. It defaults to 64 (well, the max, whatever that is). In my room, I have the contrast around 18 for almost all inputs, and it looks really, really good.

So this is your first unit, too? Man, it's sure great to have one, isn't it!

Originally posted by mikelbsd

When you say Color 22 do you mean you set each one of the colors in the menu to 22?

Mike

.

No
He means in the User Menu, his color setting is 22

The setting in the Advanced Settings - Perfectcolor, more than likely should NOT be all set at the same level.
For example my Red is set at 07, and all of the other colors are in the 20's

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
No brainer...get it off unless you have kids, pets, or clumsy adults around. ;)

Thanks, had them remove it when they set it up.

Mike

PS Harvest?

Originally posted by alpha21
No
He means in the User Menu, his color setting is 22

The setting in the Advanced Settings - Perfectcolor, more than likely should NOT be all set at the same level.
For example my Red is set at 07, and all of the other colors are in the 20's

Thanks. I haven't had much time to play around with it yet but I'm starting figure a few things out now.

Mike

in perfectcolor, how do you come up with a number for each color.

do you adjust by eye or with dve/avia.

i lowered red some but don't know if it helped much.

Originally posted by whotony
in perfectcolor, how do you come up with a number for each color.

do you adjust by eye or with dve/avia.

i lowered red some but don't know if it helped much.

I've had my HDTV 5 month and have not used any set up disk yet.

For the perfetcolor I just set by eye. Go by the bars on the right, you can tell when there is just too much color for that particular bar. My Red looks best at 07.

First, thx Marc for providing this thread. Great start for a newbie like me

Ok, I have read through all pages here, so here are a couple of questions I am not clear on.

I have had my 55613 ISF calibrated on both the 480P and 1080I rez, but not on 480I. I really want to calibrate the SD rez so that I can enjoy that picture as well.

But how can I calibrate the SD input for my E*508 PVR if I use a DVD that plays @ 480P?

I have a Deneon DVD-2200. If I switch it to deinterlace, will I then be able to calibrate the SD picture without messing up the 480P calibrations? Would I then use those settings and apply them to the input for my 508 PVR?

Also, since my set has already been ISF calibrated, I am afraid of messig anything up. What can I do to avoid messing any of the settings up?

The ISF tech made all of the changes internally and then centered all of my settings to 31, so I do not honestly know what my video settings are truly at.

Hook your dvd player up to the input of the pvr and turn off progressive scan on the dvd player. It should then output a 480i signal. Calibrate away. It shouldn't affect any of your other settings since the Mits has different memory for 480i, 480p, and 1080i.

Actually, now that I think about it, just turn off progressive scan on your dvd player (you can leve it hooked up to the input it's at now). When you are viewing the calibrating material, just hit the info button on the Mits remote to make sure it is in 480i mode.

Thx Taz

I tried yesterday when I got home. I put the DVD player on 480I, but let me ask this. Are the memory slots on the mitsu per input or per color temperature setting?

I think I will just plug my DVD player via SVideo into the input my PVR is in and calibrate that way

I must admit though that I am struggling with the sharpness patterns and the contrast pattern. I understand the concept in the sharpness pattern, but I really can not detect a difference. The contrast is what perplexes me the most.
Am I suppose to move contrast down until right before the top square merges with the second square and there is a thin line separating them both

Also, I set my color to 24 and tiint to 26. Using the Blue tint in DVE All of the blue blended properly, but the greens and reds did not when I looked through the green or red tinted piece they provided. Does that mean that I have to keep playing with the color and tint settings or do I need to get to my color decoder through the service menu. Or is it a correction I need to make in the perfect color settings.

Originally posted by MyRookieTheatre
Are the memory slots on the mitsu per input or per color temperature setting?

....Am I suppose to move contrast down until right before the top square merges with the second square and there is a thin line separating them both Per input

Move contrast to a point right before the top square starts to grow larger than the other squares (blooming).

Originally posted by MyRookieTheatre
Also, I set my color to 24 and tiint to 26. Using the Blue tint in DVE All of the blue blended properly, but the greens and reds did not when I looked through the green or red tinted piece they provided. Does that mean that I have to keep playing with the color and tint settings or do I need to get to my color decoder through the service menu. Or is it a correction I need to make in the perfect color settings. You are halfway there. Once you get blue right you need to tweak your color decoder through the perfect color settings.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3092115#post3092115

Thx Marc, but you wouldn't believe my luck. I went home for lunch to work on my calibrations.

I was going to take the SVideo from Input 1 (where I have my E*508) and connect it to my DVD player. I was then gonna calibrate that input for SD by placing my DVD player on non-progressive.

But when I went to plug my S-Video cable in, it wouldn't go into my DVD player. I got behind my equipment and checked my cable and pins, they ended up getting bent, so after I carefully straightened them, I tried again, still would not go in. I got my flash light to get a close look and imagine my surprise when I noticed that the S-Video output connection was screwed up. The pin holes were smaller and the face looked all scratched.

I took a small push pin to see if there was anything blocking the pin holes and it seems that the holes are not deep enough, nor wide enough for the Cable.

I called Ultimate and I have to wait until next monday to get a replacement unit.

Then when I went to connect the S-Video back to my 508, I noticed that the one of the pins broke off.

Guess I have to wait until next Monday to finish my calibrations and now I have to by a new S-Video cable

And yes I was one that purchased the more expensive Monster Cables, only 3 weeks old. Time to get some Pro Series AR cables

BTW Marc what is your impression of the Denon DVD 2200? Wondering if I should just ask them to send me a 2900.

I was just about to recommend AR Pro Series:cool:. These are my favorite bargain interconnects.

I have not personally evaluated a 2200. I have used the 2900 and I own a 3800. The 2900 is definitely better than the 2200 (especially for audiophiles), but whether you can justify the $$$ premium is up to you. The beauty of these Denon players is the quickest layer change in the business (most of the time unnoticeable).

Marc Money is not the issue. I just spent about 10k on the system I have in the L/R, the 2200 is in that L/R But I tell you, if i had gone with AR Pro II series from the start, I would have saved hundreds on my cabling and the 10 K would have probably included the 2900.

From all of the reviews I read, the 2900 was only better from an Music audio perspective. But the truth is that I would be watching movies 90 percent of the time on the DVD player. In fact I own only 1 DVD A and 1 SACD

Denon 3800 has the best PQ...you just have to make sure you get one with the latest upgrades. You can always send it for free upgrade if it doesn't. I got lucky and got a refurb with all the upgrades (to correct Y/C error and laser/transport).

I bought a Mits 48413 a week ago and I'm waiting for my Avia dvd to arrive. In the mean time have have read this thread and a lot of others to educate me about calibrations and settings. Now I got some questions;

1) What is over scanning and how do you detect if you have it? If you have it, what is the easiest way to eliminate it?

2) When I'm playing a dvd (from a Panasonic RV-30, no progressive) I only get 480i on the TV. (I hooked up the dvdpalyer with component cables.) Is this normal? What should I do to get 1080i dvd?

3) I read earlier that I should deselect the enhanced black setting on the TV. For all inputs or only dvd?

4) Any other automatic improvements that I should deselect? Personally I think the noise filter makes the picture look worse. What do you think.

5) Last. What are some good basic settings in perfect color for my model? right now they seem a bit off on automatic.

Thanks in advance.

// Stefan

I bought a Mits 48413 a week ago and I'm waiting for my Avia dvd to arrive. In the mean time have have read this thread and a lot of others to educate me about calibrations and settings. Now I got some questions;

1) What is over scanning and how do you detect if you have it? If you have it, what is the easiest way to eliminate it?

2) When I'm playing a dvd (from a Panasonic RV-30, no progressive) I only get 480i on the TV. (I hooked up the dvdpalyer with component cables.) Is this normal? What should I do to get 1080i dvd?

3) I read earlier that I should deselect the enhanced black setting on the TV. For all inputs or only dvd?

4) Any other automatic improvements that I should deselect? Personally I think the noise filter makes the picture look worse. What do you think.

5) Last. What are some good basic settings in perfect color for my model? right now they seem a bit off on automatic.

Thanks in advance.

// Stefan

Originally posted by taz291819
I used a butterfly-knife, but was very careful.

A plastic tool similar to a butterknife is best.

Originally posted by MyRookieTheatre
And yes I was one that purchased the more expensive Monster Cables, only 3 weeks old. Time to get some Pro Series AR cables

I had similar experience with a MC digital coax audio cable. The outer ring collapsed and the center prong split in two.

Marc

I was considering a Denon 3800 when I bought my 2200, but while reading reviews, I kept seeing how the 3800 was having issues. Besides the Y/C delay, faulty laser pick up and the chroma bug in some early models, I kept reading post were people were stating that they were having problems while playing a movie. Movie would stop playing, 3800 would power off, etc.

So I then decided to try between the 2200 and 2900. In doing my research, I found that the PQ on both were identical. Where the 2900 surpassed the 2200 was on the audio side, and a few more features.

as I mentioned before, I will use my 2200 for movies 90% of the time. I do have a setup in my family room that has my audio components.

I would imagine that I will hold off until the new 1080i DVD players are out and at a reasonable cost

I have been reading about folks having 3800 problems...hopefully I remain problem free (knock on wood).

I have yet to see a scaling DVD player with any display best native 480p on a Mits (from a DVD player with great 480p output of course).

1080i being interlaced makes it not a great choice for displaying DVDs (even though it looks great for D-Theater). If you use a scaling DVD player with a Mits...540p is the best choice. I prefer native 480p myself (my TV does not have DVI so my in home testing has been with HTPC).

1080i (actually 1776x1000i) looks great using TheaterTek, but I guess YMMV.

I have a 65809 and using my HTPC to show DVD's scaled to 1080i on the DTV input of the Mits looks much better than my STB at 480p. I use MyHD on the HTPC to watch dvd's, and its connected using RGBHV. One extra bonuns is MyHD has color controls and I can adjust the red to correct for Red Push.

I think if you try the Bravo or HTPC options to scale dvd to 1080i outside of the TV, I think you'll be impressed.

Guys...what 480p DVD player are you comparing these scaling setups
to? I'm not saying they aren't good. I'm just saying the best 480p is better than scaled on on native 480p displays.

I have a pretty cheap Philips Progressive scan set-top (dvd-825) that I tried out. I've also compared 480p and 1080i via htpc and scaling to 1080i was better, IMO. Heck, a couple dvds, X2 for instance, almost rivaled HBO-HD and SHO-HD. Though, my set has NOT been ISF calibrated yet, have to wait until Spring for the tour to come through town.

Hello everyone, I've been following the faq's on the mits and there seems to be some helpful tips. Maybe someone can help me and my 55813. Here's my picture problem. I should add that the cheap free cables are still hooked up. I did buy some AQ cables for the gear, but I don't think this is a cable problem. I'm getting lite gray vertical bars on the left side of the screen and they are noticable on dark images. When I flip the channels and the screen go's black they are there too. I have set my contrast to 18 and the brightness to 30 and visaversa. Color is at 34 and the sharpness is set to 31 still. I have the avia and sound and vision disc's but have not really gone in depth with them yet. I also have not really messed around with the perfect color menu's, as I am kinda of afraid of screwing the red and blues up until I try avia. Does anyone understand what bars I am explaining, are they overscan or possible burn in. I have not had anything on the tv to burn in and set the contrast and brightness low early on in the power up. I even shy away from watching HD in 4:3. Also I too notice some graininess in dark moving shots. The problem appears to be on the darks. I do plan on having the set pro.callibrated, but am wondering if this can be fixed by myself in the meantime. Hoping this is fixable and not the sett's nature, I do realize every display type has it's faults, hope this is not the case. Any help would be great!:(

As a newbie owner of a 48413, I'd like to start improving the color. All the faces are bright red, and trying to fix it with color and tint controls ends up with washed out, bland color.

I've begun using the DVE disk, but I run into this problem:

In the Color Balance menu, with Auto Color correction off, Perfectcolor seems to do nothing. If I take red all the way to the left or to the right, for example, the red bar changes color, but there is absolutely no change in the picture. With red and magenta all the way to the left, and blue and green all the way to the right, there is still no change in the picture as I check different channels, HD and STD.

There must be something simple that I am missing. What is it, please?

Tom

Stefan7219, you asked about getting 1080i on your mits 48413 using a
dvd. You have to have a STB to recieve HD. If you have a Samsung 351
or 165 you can use s-video from the DVD to the STB and then use AV1
or AV2 for the DVD and you will get 1080i. I use that for my DVD and
DISH 501, GREAT PICTURE on both. I forgot to say you need to use the DVI
connection.

Timmy,

Once you properly set contrast and brightess following the DVE or AVIA instrucations, there should be no more noisy blacks. If you still have it, you may have a defective set.

Thanks for the reply Marc, from following the threads it appears you have alot of knowledge with the rear projections. My installer is finishing the cables and final touches tonite. While I have him here I am going to see if he can help with the setup discs and see what he might think. I basically have the brightness and contrast set to where most have been suggesting in these threads. Every room is different depending on light, however the lite gray bars are most noticable when the room is dark and dim, as would be the case for movie viewing. We will try tweaking tonite and hopefully have some luck. Now that I know the bars are there it bothers me, and given the set itself should not happen. One more question Marc, if the setup discs don't help would pro calibration be the next step or should I just call my salesman and explain my problem?

call your salesman if the setup discs don't help.

So its been quite some time since ive done any tweaking on the 48413, tonite I decided it was time to step it up.

I'll give the usual DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME disclaimer. You will be digging around in the internals of your set when doing this and could easily fry the whole thing. I'm either brave or stupid, but probably mostly lucky.

The foxus on the sides of my picture has always been a bit weak and an electrostatic focus didnt improve things really. So I got up the balls to do a manual focus tonite. The procedure is a bit challenging and I REALLY had to be careful. Made sure to use gloves and ensured a clean environment.

The results...

Pretty wow honestly! It really improved the noticibly blurred edges and overall focus is now VERY nice! This in conjunction with a run through VE again and some time on convergence has resulted in the best picture yet!

I should have a pro come in and do a complete calibration of the set soon, but I just wanted to see what I could do on my own first.

Enjoy your sets everyone!

Right now I have my pc connected to my new 55413 via DVI and i am getting some major overscan around 5-10%. What is te best way to adjest this? and if i adjest this is it going to mess up all of my other inputs?

Jake,

On your manual focus. Were you able to access the lenses without removing the screen. Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Focus is definitely one of the most important tweaks in terms of improving PQ.

---spelling corrected :cool:

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Jake,

On you manual focus. Where you able to access the lenses without removing the screen. Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Focus is definitely one of the most important tweaks in terms of improving PQ.

No, on the 48413, the only way to get to the focus is from the back or through the screen, I have done it from the back with my wifes help, but not very well, and I want to go at it again, from the front, I think the screen can be disconnected, and just proped up 6-8 inches to reach in to get to the adjustment. also thier is a wing nut, not tape on the lens, so no need to worry about putting tape back on. and it is touchy, no need to move it very far, and go back and fourth with that and the electrostatic , to get it right.

I agree, focus make a big differance.

In the past...you could access the 46" from the back. But the 55 and 65" did not have rear access. I will check a 55" soon and report back to everyone.

Marc

Thanks for the great resource.

I am trying to adjust my overscan I would like to get it as close to 0 as possible.
What is the best you have ever seen on a ws55711?

When I try to adjust the vertical overscan I see black on the top and bottom but can still not see the top of the picture. Is this just a limitation of the set or am I adjusting the wrong thing? I do planed to have my TV ISF'ed this summer after I move, but it would be good to know what to expect.

Hi everyone,
I have a question about ws-48313. It does not seem to have a user menu option to set SVM off. (as oppose to 48413)
Would i still be able to set it off through service menu as it was recommended in Mits SVM tweak section?
Thanks.

Hello Marc it appears the setup discs have not worked too well for my problems with the 55813. Contrast is set at 28 and brightness is at 17. I have also done color and perfect color, also blue and red convergence. Reds are still somewhat high no matter where or what settings I tweak. The lite gray vertical bars are still showing as well on the left side of the display, I count 4 of them. The bars themselves appear to be convergence bars of some sort. My installer, who also sells the mits diamond series seems to think it's a bad set as do I. I've put in a call to my salesman, probably a visit from a technician before they take it back. Hopefully it can be fixed or swapped out for another 55813, I still love the set. I'll keep you posted.

Originally posted by bdraw
What is the best you have ever seen on a ws55711? 2-3% is probably the best possible but involves zeroing out the fine convergence grid and doing geometry from scratch.

3.5-4% is achievable simply from adjusting overscan and touching up geometry and convergence.

The lower the overscan the more difficult it is to converge the corners.

Great thread folks...keep it going.

I have a Mits wt-42313, 3 weeks old, and just started Cox cable HD service today(in Phoenix). The family and I think our SD and HD pictures looks pretty darn good(but what do elderly eyes know, LOL). Does anyone have an opinion as to seeing a TRUE difference in PQ if we had an ISF calibration? I would hate to spend say, $700, and truly not be able to see a vast/obvious difference.

I appreciate any and all opinions...thanks

George

Anyboy care to post some steps in adjusting the manual focus on the 48413?
Do you remove the panel on the back of the set near the bottom?
What is it that you adjust on the lenses? Any fatal mistakes?

Originally posted by sofa king
Anyboy care to post some steps in adjusting the manual focus on the 48413?
Do you remove the panel on the back of the set near the bottom?
What is it that you adjust on the lenses? Any fatal mistakes?

Any fatal mistakes- yes. There are some very high voltages running through these sets and if you're not careful you could electrocute and possibly even kill yourself.

This post started as a joke, but this is serious stuff. Be very careful when messing around on the inside of your set.

True, touching a high voltage wire could be a fatal mistake. I was thinking more along the lines of unexpected consequences, such as adjusting the wrong component and having the lense fly off into the next room.
I do appreciate the warning, and will be very careful.

Marc,
I am really enjoying my 55 inch Mits with internal DTV tuner. The only thing I miss is some kind of signal strength meter. Is any method available to see some kind of signal strength? My problem channel is UHF 58.
Thanks

My brother has the 55813.

My question is: Does it come with a learning remote?

I've helped him set up his RPTV but can't remember exactly how the remote was like. I've got an old Mits RPTV at home and to learn a code, I simply flip a switch to "Learn" point the two and hit the buttons. Done.

He's saying he doesn't see a "Learn" switch, or anything like it. This is the Diamond series, it's got to be a Learing Remote (I'm thinking).

Any ideas?

I don't have an internal tuner on my set...so I can't comment on a signal strength meter.

AFAIK, none of the Mits remotes are "learning"

Originally posted by georges326
Great thread folks...keep it going.

I have a Mits wt-42313, 3 weeks old, and just started Cox cable HD service today(in Phoenix). The family and I think our SD and HD pictures looks pretty darn good(but what do elderly eyes know, LOL). Does anyone have an opinion as to seeing a TRUE difference in PQ if we had an ISF calibration? I would hate to spend say, $700, and truly not be able to see a vast/obvious difference.

I appreciate any and all opinions...thanks

George See Mr Bob's website for more details on what a full calibration can provide you.

www.imageperfection.com

If you are happy currently and not an anal perfectionist...save your money and enjoy your set.

Originally posted by iqwertyi
My brother has the 55813.

My question is: Does it come with a learning remote?

I've helped him set up his RPTV but can't remember exactly how the remote was like. I've got an old Mits RPTV at home and to learn a code, I simply flip a switch to "Learn" point the two and hit the buttons. Done.

He's saying he doesn't see a "Learn" switch, or anything like it. This is the Diamond series, it's got to be a Learing Remote (I'm thinking).

Any ideas?

Well you've got the NetCommand stuff which is fully learning, but you have to use the IR blasters. And if you look on the back of the remote there are codes for most of the major manufactures and generally one of those will work for direct control with the remote (using the slider to select the componet)

Thanks Mark for your response. I think it would be a good idea to hold off until the set is truly broken in then fo isf.

thanks again,

george

edit

I have a 55813 being delivered in a few days and thought I'd ask a question.

#1 is there a stretch mode for 1:85 aspect to get rid of the small black bars on top and bottom. Im concerened about burn in as I will be watching quite a few movies with this ratio.

Just turn down your contrast and enjoy the movie in the
format that the director wanted you to see it in.

See also this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900

Don

Originally posted by SMT
I have a 55813 being delivered in a few days and thought I'd ask a question.

#1 is there a stretch mode for 1:85 aspect to get rid of the small black bars on top and bottom. Im concerened about burn in as I will be watching quite a few movies with this ratio. Yes there is a stretch mode that will do this.

No, watching 2:35 aspect movies with small black bars will not cause screen burn unless that is all you ever watch and your contrast is not set properly.

Q:

I have a 48413 with a Samsung TS160 on the DVI input and a DVD on a component input of the tv. I performed the simple b/w and color stuff using the Avia disk on the DVD. Now I want to do the same with the DVI input.

Can I plug the DVD into the TS160 and use it to drive the DVI?
Will it be 'accurate'?

Getting my 55813 delivered tomorrow, any tips and initial set up? Or anything to be careful of?

well my 73713's protective screen came seperated in an extra cardboard sleeve, so be careful of any extra flat card board sleeves as it may have the cover screen in it.

Please Help!! Picture Shifts to the Left


Help, I have a Mitsubishi 55809 and am having problems with my Tivo Series 2 picture. Everyhthing shifts to the left. The Tivo is fed first by a Motorola DCT 5100 to a Denon 3802 recieiver then to the 55809 using S video
The Tivo is also split so I don't have to turn the stereo on and its fed directly from the RF and then to the tv (just analog channels)

The probelem I am having is the Tivo picture shifts to the left by about two inches and up in the left hand corner by about an inch.

Part of the picture is cut off but I still have a full screen (ie no black lines jus a a shifted screen).

Now this problem is indigenous to Tivo. When i switch the stereo to a direct feed off the cable box the screen shifts back to normal. DVDs everything else looks fine. As I mentioned this "screen shift" also occurs via the direct RF feed so its gotta be the Tivo.

I replaced the unit (which I bought in septemebr) and I still have the shifting problem.

Can anyone offer some advice on how I might fix this or even pay someone to fix it for me.

I have had the Mitisubishi people come out and they insist its not the TV. The cable people insist its not the box (although my next step is to see if swapping out the box with a new one will have an effect)

I don't know what to do. I am not even sure if this is the right forum to ask - - help!

Well got my 55813 delivered yesterday and all I can say is WOW! I set the contrast down as instructed. The picture is awesome, the focus is razor sharp and I even was able to get 5 channels in HD with my silver sensor antenna, it blew me and my wife away. I'm hooked on HD! This forum is a great resource and it was of great help in making this decision.

Manual focus for 48413

I removed the front screen completely, being careful to disconnect all the front panel controls. Then rigged up a system to hold a sheet of white copier paper at the correct distance out, to match where the screen would normally be. This gave me great access to the lenses from the front and still see my grid for focusing. I simply went to the main convergence and spread the crosses out into three parts to get someting nice to focus. i then carefully loosened the wingnuts holding the lenses and went to it.

I then put the screen back in and did an electrostatic focus. I followed this up with a good going over test patters and convergence settings.

It's a little scary but it definately made a huge improvement in picture quality.

Just be careful kids. :)

Ive been reading through this thread and came up with a few questions for the experts.

1) How do you access the service menu? Ive got a 55413

2) Are there any drawbacks to removing the plastic screen?

3) How do you clean the main screen ( It was my understanding that the screen was never to be touched, so how do you dust it).

Scratch #1. I figured out how to get into the menu and changed VMLE to 0. Anyone got a line on the other 2. Thanks.

The manual for my 42313 tells me how to clean the screen behind the "anit-glare" screen. I personally haven't had to dust (removed the protective screen 1 week ago) yet so I don't remember what the manual says.

Check your user manual. PM me if you need me to check my manual.

Jeff

Screen Dusting:

I use one of those hand held swiffer things. Just a light swipe in a vertical
direction works well. I keep it in my DVD cabinet for this one use only!
(Don't want the wife dusting with it.)

Don

I also use a swiffer cloth to dust the screen. It works quite well. Just make sure you don't press too hard on the screen.

Update on my picture problem with the 55813, bad signal board. The tech came out saturday night and changed the power board, it didn't help. Then put in the new signal board and it was fixed. 3-4 hours of setting the convergence and alinement was needed after that. The color is better from the calibration, red push was fixed and the grayscale was greatly improved. My antenna was put up on monday for the locals, the locals are out of alinement. The tech will be back out this saturday to fix it. The tech did mention he saw another 55813 in the shop by him for the same problem. Bad signal board, presenting lite gray vertical bars top to bottom on the left side of screen to middle.

Hi all,

I apologize in advance if this is not the correct thread to be asking the following questions and maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

Anyway,
Picked up a WS55813 about 1 week ago after doing a lot of research(6 mos) on all the different technologies(DLP, LCD, Plasma and RPTV) and found them all to have different issues inherent with each respective technology. I veiwed the set originally in the showroom and was struck by how much sharper and detailed the Sony LCD was next to the WS55813. But putting what my eyes were seeing aside considering that a AV showroom is not really the place to evaluate a TV I went ahead and brought home the Mits. I had previously contacted an ISF tech to schedule a calibration as soon as I could to give me maximum time to evaluate the set under the MBG policy. I also questioned him about the different types of displays on the market and after mentioning a front projector as his first choice he said this years Mits and Hitachis were bothe excellent choices and to avoid the other technologies as they could not provide the quality picture a CRT based display can.

OTB the Mits looked terrible, the colors were way off and it was not as sharp and detailed as the Sony LCD. Turns out that the grey scale was way off on the mits and after bringing it back in line the colors were where they should be. We channel surfed and looked at some DVD's and the DVD's looked great although he suggested I might check into getting a different/better player. Although the Mits looked way better than it when I first turned it on I was still concerned with the detail and softness on the HD signals. He that he could focus it in a little better but that I should do some viewing on it to be sure I was happy with the color renditions overall on different types of source material before we went with the full calibration.

About 95% of my viewing consists of DVD's and HDTV with each of those being about 50/50. My sources are Directv for with their HD package, Comcast cable with their HD lineup(CBS, NBC, ABC, PBS and ESPN) and I receive CBS OTA.

Sorry if this is long winded but to my main concern,
Discovery and HDnet appear very detailed and sharp whereas the network stuff seems much softer. Now I know that the Discovery and HDnet material is shot with HD equipment but I am not sure about the major network stuff. I know it is broadcast in HD but whether some of it is upconverted i don't know.
Here's the kicker for me, my previous set, an uncalibrated RCA 38" WS had much better detail and clarity than the Mits has in it's current configuration. Granted the RCA is a direct view model whereas the Mits is RPTV but can I expect the Mits to provide as detailed and sharp a picture as the Sony I saw and the RCA which I am replacing it with? Will the full calibration get me that or is it unreasonable to expect the Mits to be as sharp as some of the other technologies such as the LCD's, DLP's and plasmas. Considering that Disc and HDnet appear very good and the issue seems to be mostly with major network HD broadcasts I understand that the source material has a lot to do with it. Does bigger(55" vs 38") mean giving up detail and clarity?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts and pointers you folks and give me,

Jim

I'm by no means an expert by I have a Mit 55413 in my home since Monday 3/8. I replaced a Mits 32" dircet view with this TV.

I never expected to see SD broadcast channles as good as on the smaller direct view, so seeing that it is not that bad on the 55", I'm OK (Digital Cable which isn't good anyway), but when viewing the cable channels it's much better and the premium movie channels well I'm pretty much impressed. DVD's are way much better...!!!

I have not done any calibrating at all. I just brought down the contrast and some brightness as recommended here and that's it!

Come Monday, though, I will fianlly be able to see what it can handle in HD, I'm having STB installed. Can't wait to see what this TV was created for!

keenan, I can't speak from experience since my 48413 hasn't been ISF calibrated yet, but from what I've read from the forums, a good calibrator can make your set look fabulous. The Mits are well known for having the best HD picture within all technologys once properly calibrated. Let us know how it turns out once you have the job done.

And yes, direct view crt's are going to look better, but due to their lack of size, they are not very beneficial to most. With that said, you can't sit at the same distance from your direct view crt as your rptv. With a 55" like yours, I'd try sitting about 10 feet back, that should be a optimal seating distance. I sit 7.5 feet from my 48" and it looks great, though it still needs to be calibrated profressionally.

Keenan, once you can have your convergence and calibration done you will most likely like your 55813 better, at least I do. Read my last post, the grayscale is way better, taking out the purplish tone and leaving the blacks a true black. He was able to get rid of the red push most noticable in faces. I'm no expert either but the set looks way better, more natural colors than when I first got it. According to my tech the mits and the hitachis are least problematic out of any other setts he works on, he's been doing this for over 20 years. From what he told me he has been working on more dlp and lcd displays over any other crt since the new technologies came out. As he explains it to me the newer technologies still have too many bugs and problems to be worked out before they can be considered great. Hd local broadcast don't look anywhere near as good to me either compared to hdnet and discovery. I think alot of it is upconvert also, where as hdnet claims to come as close to 1920x1080 as possible. Upconverted movies don't blow me away either on hbo and espn looks bad 90% of the time if not more. Again I'm no expert and someone correct me if I'm wrong here, there just needs to be more truly hd shows out there. Aside from that I think you will be happy with the mits once you have things settled with it.

Originally posted by im timmy
Keenan, once you can have your convergence and calibration done you will most likely like your 55813 better, at least I do. Read my last post, the grayscale is way better, taking out the purplish tone and leaving the blacks a true black. He was able to get rid of the red push most noticable in faces.

My set had the exact same problems,
Originally posted by im timmy
Hd local broadcast don't look anywhere near as good to me either compared to hdnet and discovery. I think alot of it is upconvert also, where as hdnet claims to come as close to 1920x1080 as possible. Upconverted movies don't blow me away either on hbo and espn looks bad 90% of the time if not more.

I also have the same feeling about the difference between HDnet, Disc and the network broadcasts.

I am going to get the full cal done, money is not the issue, the reason I got this TV was I wanted a larger size display, in fact they were many times when I would be viewing a HD broadcast on my old RCA 38" and the picture was so sharp and detailed I would ask myself do I really need a new tv. Well the answer was yes because of size and the RCA was good but was also 4 years old and a lot has transpired in display technology since then. I guess to answer my own question I will have to see what the full cal can give me.

I hear ya, I don't know bout you but at least watching a dvd on a larger screen is alot more fun. I've been watching hdnet and dicovery more than anything for hd. Finally got a antenna put up so at least I can enjoy pbs in hd. Good luck

Does anyone lose covergence on a 65813? I manually set mine, but have noticed that a few times it looks like it needs to be redone. I'm concerned, because I don't want to calibrate it if it'll be lost on occasion.

-Richard

Badrich, I asked a tech who came out to work on my 55813 recently the same question. He told me the settings will be stored once set even if power is lost, set until it is manually changed. He was talking about the convergence and the menu settings only a tech can access with a code. On the other hand I thought I read or heard that the settings a consumer setts, color, contrast, brightness, etc. will go back to factory settings if the power is down for a certain amount of time. My only experience came on Sunday when I had a outlet on my surge go out, the tv was not powered. From the power down the only setting that went back to factory was contrast, all the way up. I'm no expert so maybe direct your question to a more experienced mits user here. Just letting you know from another users experience.

Originally posted by im timmy
I hear ya, I don't know bout you but at least watching a dvd on a larger screen is alot more fun. I've been watching hdnet and dicovery more than anything for hd. Finally got a antenna put up so at least I can enjoy pbs in hd. Good luck

I have a question about the OTA scanning for channels and what the results mean. When I have the Mits scan for channels on the DTV antenna input it starts at 002 and goes up apparently getting a signal on some channels and memorizing them as it goes. When it's done I go back to the display for the DTV input and am able to view some of the channels yet there are some that have been memorized that only display the channel number yet there is just a gray screen and after a few moments the screen goes blue and says channel off air or does not exist. My question is if the scanning found a signal to memorize it why when you go to the channel it gives that message. Can it be that the tuner while scanning for ATSC broadcasts gets enough signal to determine that there is indeed a signal there yet not strong enough to actually produce a picture? If that is the case why would Mitsubishi do that? Since there is no signal strength indicator to determine if the signal is very weak or strong enough that a turn of the antenna might be all it needs to bring in it's impossible to tell what the scanning procedure is actually seeing. Also, these phantom channels that are being memorized I know for a fact that there is a broadcast signal being sent. If I am doing the scanning properly as laid in the manual I have to say that this is a serious flaw or bug possibly in the Mits ATSC tuner setup. I was wondering if others have seen the same behaviour.

Thanks for any input,

Jim

Jim, I can't help you on your channel scanning problem. I'm not using the tuner inside the mits. I'm using a stb to receive satellite and the locals off of my antenna. My channel scan came through the hughes box. What I am curious about is if when running the antenna into the mits, I would think you would have to set up and activate antenna in the net command to use that signal. If you have a stb you should be able to run your antenna into the box for a signal and satellite. I'm assuming you have satellite from reading your earlier posts. Sorry if this isn't any help. Explain your setup and maybe we can figure it out.

Yes, I do have sat. I'm using a Samsung TS-160 for Directv and OTA with a CM antenna. This is plugged into the Monlink/DVI input. Have a Moto 5100 for Comcast cable that is plugged into the component DTV-INP. I also have another CM antenna that I fed into the DTV-ant input to see what the results might be and hence the questions in my previous post. It is not a critical thing for me as I have those other sources for the OTA broadcasts but considering the supposed top-of-the-line designation for this model Mits I a little disappointed at the form and function of their ATSC tuner. Being in the SF bay area just a one notch turn of the rotor for the antenna is the difference in getting a signal or not. With the Mits I have no way of knowing if I'm am even in the ballpark with no signal strength apparatus. And I am really curious about those phantom stations it apparently picks up yet when you tune to the station the TV tells you there is no signal. I'm going to try and call Mits tech help I guess I was just hoping that someone here might have an informed answer. If it is not a lot of hassle maybe you could hook your OTA antenna feed direct to the DTV-ANT input for a test and see if your set exhibits the same behaviour. Being that my Samsung is almost 3 yrs old I was kind of hoping that the Mits tuner might be more sensitive to recieve weaker signals yet it seems to be way worse in that regard.

Again thanks for the responses

Jim

Jim,

My Mits works the same as yours. Maybe those channels have a "carrier signal" that the scan detects but there is no programming currently on the channel. Not sure there is a carrier wave for a digital signal? Please let us know if you talk to the Mits peeps. I get premium stations that come and go on some of those channels. Also the digital music channels come in on one of those channels and a bunch of its subs.

Frank

Jim, the tech was just here to adjust the alinement on my mits again so I got a chance to ask him about your sig/scan problem. It's sounds to him like the antenna is not getting the signal. I described how you did a channel scan and that it appears to pickup channels without displaying them. I think you answered your own question in that the mitsu's ability to pickup ota through it's own tuner may not be all that. 2 things to check are would be to do a channel scan of your sat from the samsung and see if those phantom channels can be brought in. If they can the mits tuner can be blamed. Also you can check the phantom channels that the mits picks up and see if you are even able to pick them up according to your location. By that I mean you can check antennaweb.org and see if those hard to get channels are within your blue, red, codes and mileage and also according to your antenna itself. For example my hughes htl box picks up certain locals on a scan but the antenna is pointed toward downtown chicago. The channels that are scanned but can't be delivered are coming from Gary Indiana and so on. You might already know this, just tryin to help since we have the same mits and maybe I will run through the mits tuner someday too. Let me know.

Have a 65813. Have contrast max and brightness at 31.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
No brainer...get it off unless you have kids, pets, or clumsy adults around. ;)

I don't know why I waited so long to read this thread! I've had my Mits 65511 for over a year now. I finally got tired of the glare and removed the shield today. It makes a world of difference.

Plus my wife is happy because we can keep the family room windows open and can save the $$ we were going to spend on room darkening window treatments. I will however take your advice and put the shield back on when guests w/children are here.

Now to store the shield. Is there a preferred method of storage (flat, upright, etc). It's going to go in my basement when not in use.

IM Timmy,

Thanks for the info. It sounds like when I get it calibrated the settings should stick. When I lose power, I definetly have to reset the contrast and other settings. I've since hooked everything to a UPS so I shouldn't have that issue anymore.

Originally posted by im timmy
Keenan, once you can have your convergence and calibration done you will most likely like your 55813 better, at least I do.

Well I had the set fully calibrated and it does look really good, in fact some of the sat and cable HD broadcasts look much better than they did before. In fact I am very happy with the set, except for something I had been noticing since I first got it hooked up.

What I think I am seeing is internal reflection of light being sprayed(?) on the screen where they do not belong. I hope I can explain this so you all know what I mean. For example, when watching a DVD and there is a scene where the actor is in a fairly dark room or area and there is a window with some bright light shining in the brightness from the window seems to be reflected onto areas of the screen it should not be. With a bright open window in the background and the actor in a dark room in the foreground the reflected light obliterates any shadow detail. For instance what the actor is wearing and how it might be folded or shaped. I all see is a dark area with a bright haze with no seemingly no depth to it. It is bothersome to my eyes as when it occurs I cannot seem to focus on the area.

Another real good example is I have a Roku HD1000 media player hooked to the TV. When the Roku is in stanby or the screen saver in active( the screen saver is a clock that moves around the screen and is white in color) there is a definate halo or scattered brightness on other parts of the screen which should not be there.

I have tried adjusting with the contrast and brightness from the setting set by the calibrator but I can't seem to solve the problem.

I hope I have explained the problem well enough so that you all understand what I am seeing. I hope there is a remedy for this as for me anyhow it is extremely annoying. I will be contacting my calibrator on Monday to get his opinion, and I am hoping he won't tell that this is something that is common with RPTVs.

Anyone else familiar with this and if so what have you been able to do if anything?

Thanks in advance

Jim

this is likely to be reflections from light bouncing off things inside the tv behind the screen.

whoever calibrated your tv would have suggested duvetyne(sp) lining inside if he would have noticed it.

I know back in February several folks posted here about their Mitsu's suddenly turning off,, then the green lpower light would just blink.

I have had my Mitsu for 4 months and all of a sudden my Mitsu did it twice. I have had a Monster HTS-3600 surge/line conditioner on it since I bought the TV.

Has anyone been able to determine what is the cause of it. I need to determine if this is something I should be worried about and calling Mitsu to take care of.

I believe that symptom is a reboot caused by the netcommand/integrated tuner software. You have an integrated HD tuner on your set right? Did this occur while using netcommand or watching an OTA broadcast or firewire?

Unless there is an upgrade available or they plan for one in the future, you may have to live with it.

Originally posted by whotony
this is likely to be reflections from light bouncing off things inside the tv behind the screen.

whoever calibrated your tv would have suggested duvetyne(sp) lining inside if he would have noticed it.

I think it is reflections also, but more probably reflections inside the lens' assemblies. In any case on Monday the ISF tech and I are going to put some light absorbing felt inside the picture box although he has indicated that the improvement would be minimal. I have been told that the haloing or lens flare is inherent in RPTV displays. I think it boils down to if I can live with it or not.

I will post the results of the work once it's done though. Hopefully it will be good news.

Jim

I lined the inside of my 4-year old, 55 inch Mits with duvetyne. The difference it made was rather small. I still get quite a bit of internal reflection from the CRTs.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
I believe that symptom is a reboot caused by the netcommand/integrated tuner software. You have an integrated HD tuner on your set right? Did this occur while using netcommand or watching an OTA broadcast or firewire?

Unless there is an upgrade available or they plan for one in the future, you may have to live with it.

I do have an integrated set. But as far as I recall, this did not happen while watching an OTA channel. I was watching my dish 508 PVR.

I heard that it may be the netcommand functions and that turning off the netcommand would eliminate the problem. If I delete or turn off netcommand, do I lose my device inputs that are currently setup. I am using a Harmony Remote and do not want to mess with the netcommand functions if it will delete my inputs

Thx Mark

how do you turn off netcommand?

i thought it was more that you just dont use netcommand.

I haven't turned off net command. I was asking if I should

Hi folks,
I've been reading all the Mits threads before making the plunge for the 73713 and just took delivery of the unit. I "upgraded" from a Pioneer Elite 620, but I can't seem to get the black level and contrast right on the Mits 73713.

I am using a Denon 3800 (correctly set to "DARKER" output) as DVD source and Echostar 6000 for HDTV source. I noticed that even with color temp set to "LOW", there is still some light output from the TV (dark purple glow) on the entire screen that I can't get rid off. On my Pioneer, I can turn the brightness all the way down and basically cut the output from the tube for true black.

This is frustrating as I can't seem to get all the way down to get true black. All black scenes on movies and HDTV show aren't quite black.
Does this mean that grey scale needs to be calibrated by ISF? I just want to know if this is normal on the MITS. Otherwise, I will give my dealer a service call. Thanks.

Originally posted by discs4sale
Does this mean that grey scale needs to be calibrated by ISF? Yes...although you may want to give your dealer a service call as most Mits sets are not this far out of wack out of the box. But there is nothing wrong with the TV that it cannot be calibrated by an ISF to D6500

mine had alot of purple too.

it was calibbed by gregg a few weeks ago.
no more purple.

Thanks for the feedback on my "dark purple" screen issue. Does anyone have first hand experience and can recommended ISF calibrators who can service the Irvine area (southern california) and works on Mitsubishi?

I need a little help with my 55813. I have looked for "how to" on overscan adjustment and can't seem to locate this procedure. If somebody can give me a link or give me step by step instructions for this adjustment I would really appreciate it! Its the last thing I need to do to make this baby perfect. I need to know how to get into the menu and what settings to adjust.

Originally posted by discs4sale
Does anyone have first hand experience and can recommended ISF calibrators who can service the Irvine area (southern california) and works on Mitsubishi?

Craig Miller
MGHomeTheater@earthlink.net
(909) 519-2090
Chino Hills CA

http://www.mghometheater.com/page/page/886917.htm

SMT...have you read this thread? The info you are looking for should be in the first few posts.

need some tips here..
when looking at a DVD from a progressive scan player, i'm noticing the same "grain" look on the darker seens, and i'm also seeing dark horizontal lines on the darker scenes(especially in red scenes). Facial close ups look great, but with the wide shots i see the horizontal lines alot more vividly. Is this the protective screens or is it something in the setup?

and does anyone know of a professional calibrator in the NY/brooklyn area?

what are your thoughts on external line doublers/scalers?

Originally posted by MyRookieTheatre
I know back in February several folks posted here about their Mitsu's suddenly turning off,, then the green lpower light would just blink.

I have had my Mitsu for 4 months and all of a sudden my Mitsu did it twice. I have had a Monster HTS-3600 surge/line conditioner on it since I bought the TV.

Has anyone been able to determine what is the cause of it. I need to determine if this is something I should be worried about and calling Mitsu to take care of.

My 42313 (no Netcommand or integrated tuner) just shut itself off, and would not power back up. When trying to power up again the power light would come on for a couple seconds then go back off. I tried it again later in the day, it stayed on for maybe 10 seconds and I'm thinking it's corrected itself, then I hear a sizzling sound underneath, and the red gun comes on briefly before it shut down again

Not impressed w/ either Mitsubishi or Best Buy for service. The earliest I could get a service person in is tomorrow, 10 days after the failure.

Hv had my 65" Diamond for 3 weeks so far so good !

Originally posted by aldujaparov
My 42313 (no Netcommand or integrated tuner) just shut itself off, and would not power back up. When trying to power up again the power light would come on for a couple seconds then go back off. I tried it again later in the day, it stayed on for maybe 10 seconds and I'm thinking it's corrected itself, then I hear a sizzling sound underneath, and the red gun comes on briefly before it shut down again

Not impressed w/ either Mitsubishi or Best Buy for service. The earliest I could get a service person in is tomorrow, 10 days after the failure.

Mitsu service tech says shorted red output IC, no insights as to why it would fail in less than 2 mo's service. e-mail's to Mitsu unanswered, despite promises to respond.

I am new at this, so please excuse my noobish wording :P

I have a 65809. I was doing some convergence setting, and noticed the blue has some kind of bluish shadow around it. The white cross can not totally cover the blue, and the cross looks like it is glowing blue light.

So I turn on the service menu, and look at the COARSE BLUE, and found that the grids all have a kind of bluish glow, and off to the left of the lines. I do not see this on COARSE GREEN and COARSE RED, nor reds in convergence test.

Can this be a focus issue on the blue? It will be helpful to know alittle bit more before call up the tech. Thanks for your help in advance~

Yes, this is a blue focus issue.

Working great and looking good right out of the box. Where do I start with the tweaking? Any suggestions?

With the Avia disk, set brightness, contrast, sharpness. Change the color temp to 6500 and set the color balance for red/green/blue.

If you want to go the ISF route, let the set break itself in for a while.

I used the Video Essentials disk to set up the above, have been very pleased with my mits...3 months...

Are there discrete codes for the inputs on the 55813?

Does anyone have them?

Great thread Marc,

I have a 65712, if I buy the service manual, will it tell you what each abbreviation stands for and how to adjust each one? I have gone into the service menu(just to look for now), but I don't know what all the abbreviations mean.

Originally posted by GKOFRON
I have a 65712, if I buy the service manual, will it tell you what each abbreviation stands for and how to adjust each one? I have gone into the service menu(just to look for now), but I don't know what all the abbreviations mean. Basically, yes. It doesn't go into details on everything but it does on a majority of items.

Thanks Marc,

Do you happen to know if VM is the setting to adjust to turn off my svm? I was browsing through the service menu, and that was the only thing close. It can be adjusted from 0-3. It is set to 2, even though in the regular menu I turned it off.

Originally posted by GKOFRON
Do you happen to know if VM is the setting to adjust to turn off my svm? I was browsing through the service menu, and that was the only thing close. It can be adjusted from 0-3. It is set to 2, even though in the regular menu I turned it off. What model set do you own? I believe it is simply VM on the older sets (2001 and 2002 models), completely defeatable in the user menu on the 2003s, and VMLE on the newer 2004s(xx313 and xx413).

Thanks Marc,

It is a WS65712, not sure of the year, I bought it April 2003. I can turn it off in user menu (it is called svm). But when I go into service menu it is VM and is set to 2. I guess I should go in and set it to 0.

Originally posted by GKOFRON
It is a WS65712, not sure of the year, I bought it April 2003. I can turn it off in user menu (it is called svm). But when I go into service menu it is VM and is set to 2. I guess I should go in and set it to 0. AFAIK, on your model set, you turn SVM on and off the the user menu. The service menu simply sets the level of SVM (0 being always off). You may want to set it to 1 in the SM so you can toggle it on to the lowest level if you want. Some programs benefit from SVM occassionally.

o.k. thanks, what type of programs would benefit from it being on?

Any program in which the picture appears too soft. Generally, video games always seem to benefit from SVM without distracting artifacts.

Marc,

ESPN-HD has started to use pillar boxes with a HD logo when sending 4x3 material instead of streching it to 16x9 like they used to. My question is, do these pillar boxes present the same problem of burn-in as would be the case when the display is using them on SD 4x3 channels or even 4x3 on HD channels? The display in question is a Mits WS55813.

Thanks,

Jim

Any image which is static (does not change/move) can cause burn-in. I usually change to "regular" ESPN when something is shown with the new bars.

Yes, the sidebars pose burn-in concerns when viewed for extended periods (as does the static ESPN logo in the ticker).

Simply use the FORMAT button on your remote control to switch to WIDE EXPAND mode when you want to remove the ESPN sidebars re-stretch the 4x3 image.

Thanks guys, that's what I figured, in fact if I had thought about the ticker I could have answered my own question:)

Jim

Can anyone recommend a good ISF calibrator for a WS-65813 in the Tulsa Oklahoma area. I am tired going in and correcting all of my settings every time my kids hit the AV Reset button. It always cranks the contrast to 67.

bump.............. does anyone know the answer to my question?

Originally posted by pbmax542
Can anyone recommend a good ISF calibrator for a WS-65813 in the Tulsa Oklahoma area. I am tired going in and correcting all of my settings every time my kids hit the AV Reset button. It always cranks the contrast to 67.

You might try disconnecting the front panel buttons of your set. It's been discussed in these pages that you can remove the speaker grill to get access to a pair of wires that you can disconnect.

Originally posted by pbmax542
Can anyone recommend a good ISF calibrator for a WS-65813 in the Tulsa Oklahoma area. I am tired going in and correcting all of my settings every time my kids hit the AV Reset button. It always cranks the contrast to 67.

Go to www.hometheaterspot.com and look for a calibrator there. Many of the best are there.

Hey ya'll,

I have the 65712, and it re-boots all the time, real PITA...have to re-set the clock everytime it happens. I have a guy coming out to replace the power supply, so I will be updating you all on how it goes.

Christian

Marc Alexander,

cjsparky's remark about his power supply reminded me of something I have been considering, do you have any thoughts on or possibly experienced the results of using a balanced power device such as this and what it might do for picture quality?

http://www.equitech.com/products/consumer/modelq.html
Balanced Power from Equi=Tech -- The Model Q

Thanks,

Jim

Originally posted by keenan
Marc Alexander,

cjsparky's remark about his power supply reminded me of something I have been considering, do you have any thoughts on or possibly experienced the results of using a balanced power device such as this and what it might do for picture quality?

http://www.equitech.com/products/consumer/modelq.html
Balanced Power from Equi=Tech -- The Model Q

Thanks,

Jim

How good is the Perfect Color feature on the Mits sets that allow you to calibrate using 6 different colors?

?

Jim

Originally posted by keenan
Marc Alexander,

cjsparky's remark about his power supply reminded me of something I have been considering, do you have any thoughts on or possibly experienced the results of using a balanced power device such as this and what it might do for picture quality?

http://www.equitech.com/products/consumer/modelq.html
Balanced Power from Equi=Tech -- The Model Q

Thanks,

Jim The visible difference balanced power would make will be minimal IMO and definitely not worth the $$$. How much of a difference would depend on how poor your AC power is. It would be a good idea to monitor/check your AC power before making any big power investments. Balanced power will probably make a much bigger difference on your audio performance than your RPTV. (my Panamax has isolated/balanced power but only for low current outlets meaning I cannot run the TV or AMPs through it)

Originally posted by Auditor55
How good is the Perfect Color feature on the Mits sets that allow you to calibrate using 6 different colors? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3092115#post3092115

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
The visible difference balanced power would make will be minimal IMO and definitely not worth the $$$. How much of a difference would depend on how poor your AC power is. It would be a good idea to monitor/check your AC power before making any big power investments. Balanced power will probably make a much bigger difference on your audio performance than your RPTV. (my Panamax has isolated/balanced power but only for low current outlets meaning I cannot run the TV or AMPs through it)

Thank you for your response,

Jim

Hi, I just bought the WS-55613 RPTV almost 2 weeks ago and love it. I did most of the calibration techniques in this thread as well as taking off the glare screen, which made the biggest PQ improvement IMHO. Although, after taking it off I did notice like someone on this board stated, a loss in the black levels as well as more grains/pixels (especially compared to my Sony 65WS550 that still has it's glare screen on). I don't want to use the black enhancement option, so does anyone know what I can do to get the blacks a little darker (current Contrast is 17 and Brightness is 29)? With regards to the increased pixels, what can I do to remedy?

Also, I noticed that my TV rebooted and sometimes would not turn on (flashing led, then nothing) when using it in low power mode. Not sure if its just my TV, but this tip may help others experiencing this, I just keep it in standard power mode and no reboots, but like clockwork I get reboots the moment I switch to low power mode.

Thanks in advance for my questions above...

You should set the black level (brightness) using AVIA or DVE. The tinted glare screen does make blacks darker when ambient light is present (but it also reduces overall light output for bright scenes). The way to control your black levels with the tinted screen off is to control your ambient light.

One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learnabout/generaltips/blacklevel.html

Originally posted by Marc Alexander


One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learnabout/generaltips/blacklevel.html

My ISF guy, Robert Busch and I did this very thing and while the improvement is not dramatic, there is a definite improvement. Well worth the time and effort, Took about 1-2 hrs.

Jim

Marc, thanks for the quick reply... I will definitely try this as I think I've done everything short of this and/or an ISF calibration. Sorry, I forgot to give you guys a reference point on what I've done. Anyways, I first took off the glare screen, calibrated via DVE, did some sm tweaks for overscan, and did 64 point convergence on all inputs. Anyways, thanks for the info., I'll try the Duvetyne.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You should set the black level (brightness) using AVIA or DVE. The tinted glare screen does make blacks darker when ambient light is present (but it also reduces overall light output for bright scenes). The way to control your black levels with the tinted screen off is to control your ambient light.

One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learnabout/generaltips/blacklevel.html

As far as the increased pixels, anyone know what the cause of this is? When I place the glare screen on again, the pixles don't go away but are less noticeable (picture is softer overall too). I'm guessing that w/ the screen off PQ is sharper, hence pixels are more noticeable, so the pixels were always there, just not as obvious with the screen on. Is this true, or is there a way to reduce them via sm tweaks or ISF calibration, thanks.

The better your focus is, the more visible scan lines (pixels) will be. This is what you want for the best PQ. The scan lines should should not be noticeable from normal viewing distances though. How far are you sitting from the display? Do you notice the pixels on all inputs (SDTV, DVD, and HDTV)?

I don't notice them from my normal viewing distance at 11 ft. I start noticing them at around 6-7 ft. I'm only asking because w/ the glare screen on I need to be 3-4 ft to see them. Scan lines I can see on all inputs at around 6-7 ft, while pixels are only on my OTA HD antenna source. So I guess it's my feed then. Will an inline amp for the silver sensor antenna help reduce the pixels/noise? Thanks again...

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
The better your focus is, the more visible scan lines (pixels) will be. This is what you want for the best PQ. The scan lines should should not be noticeable from normal viewing distances though. How far are you sitting from the display? Do you notice the pixels on all inputs (SDTV, DVD, and HDTV)?

You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.

Marc,

Does this hold true for the Diamond Shield used on the Diamond series sets also? Can't remember if I asked this question before or not. Which way will provide the best picture, on or off, I have no children or pet considerations to influence the decision. The set is a WS55813.

Thanks,

Jim

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.

Cool, thanks. I guess that explains why my Sony 65WS550's PQ isn't as good as my new Mits WS55613. On the Sony no matter how close I get I can never see any scan lines. The Mits PQ isn't leaps and bounds better, but you can see a nice PQ difference though. Thanks again for all the help, I can finally stop my tweaking and just enjoy the set (w/ occasional convergence adjustments I'll try and do twice a year at a minimum of course).

Originally posted by keenan
Does this hold true for the Diamond Shield used on the Diamond series sets also? Can't remember if I asked this question before or not. Which way will provide the best picture, on or off, I have no children or pet considerations to influence the decision. The set is a WS55813. OFF results in the best PQ...even on the Diamond

Norrin, sounds like your Sony could benefit from a focus calibration.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
OFF results in the best PQ...even on the Diamond

Norrin, sounds like your Sony could benefit from a focus calibration.

Thanks,

Jim

I was in a high end audio store yesterday and one of the guys told me I'd get a better picture if I turned off progressive scan on the DVD player and let the TV do the conversion. He also mentioned setting the resolution on the TV. Does that make sense? I've been using a Mits DVD player (model 8040) in case that makes a difference. I have other DVD plays that I think are high quality but they are not progressive scan.

He also recommended using the DVI port for digital cable over the component inputs?

Thank you for your insight,
Frank

Try switching between interlaced and progressive and check it out with your own eyes (never just take a salesperson's statements as gospel).

Some Mits sets allow you to select 480p or 960i for 480i upconversion (480p should be selected for film DVDs). You cannot select resolution for 480p or 1080i input.

On the Mits, the best PQ is achieved using progressive component output from a high quality DVD player. Unfortunately, I don't consider the Mits 8040 to be a high quality DVD player. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3697584#post3697584

Regarding DVI vs. Component: you will likely not see a difference. CRT sets must convert DVI back to analog to be displayed. Again, try both and decide with your own eyes.

Found the original Mits 8040 review thread. http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=300625&highlight=8040

Just got my 9" gunner yesterday. WS65813. I ended up with a much higher brightness setting than most, at 51. This setting was necessary to dstinguish all 10 bars in the avia 10 IRE bars pattern.

set contast to 18. not because there was ever blooming present through full contrast but because the line on the lft became more distorted at higher contrast. There is still a small distorion still present at top of the line at 18.

Anyhow, with brightness at 51, and contrast at 18, am I asking for trouble? Is it desirable to differentiate all 10 of those bars?

Set seems to have accurate color decoding with tint of 27 and color of 37. Blue filter is spot on and red and green both seem within 5 or maybe 10%.Seem like thats in the ball park?

I like Medium Color - seems most neutral. Low yellows. High runs blue.

Lastly, is there a way to verify the hours on the CRTs. I was supposed to have bought an open box returne within 30 days of purchase, but there sure is a lot of dust an finger prints on it. Wondering if they did the old switcheroo with a demo model on me. Any way to test? Suppose I could (should have) just asked the store for the return paperwork including serial number.

thanks in advance. This TVs awesome.
jb

Originally posted by jb33
Is it desirable to differentiate all 10 of those bars? Yes. However, using that pattern may result in too high brightness. You need to run the black level patterns to check DC restoration. You may need to compromise. What test disc are you using?

If you are happy with the light output at contrast = 18 then great. The lower the better.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Yes. However, using that pattern may result in too high brightness. You need to run the black level patterns to check DC restoration. You may need to compromise. What test disc are you using?

If you are happy with the light output at contrast = 18 then great. The lower the better.

Thanks Mark. I'm using AVIA. Uh, what's DC Resoration all about?

I do prefer the contrast up around 31, have I got that much wiggle room as far as burn in protection goes? Also, since that setting seems to stress the power supply (distorted white line) what are the everydat effects on the picture (oes geometry get thrown off?) and what are the longer term effects on the life of the power supply?

thanks,
jb

In AVIA, there a text descriptions for each test pattern. I believe it is a question mark icon. It talks all about power supplies and DC restoration. It is adviseable to read these before adjusting. (you also should probably watch the video at least once).

well I have - on both counts - just not the black pattern descriptions I guess. Not that I know what to do with the gamma table now that I've read it's description ;)
thanks again, marC, for your input on both threads.

jb

So I have a VGA to RGB-V cable. I think its V, its the grey cable. Is there anyway I can modify that, or just use it on the RGB-V-H input on the set?

EDIT:

OK, looks like the cable I have provides composite sync and they do have circuits to split out composite sync to Hsynv and Vsync. But as I also need to buy BNC-RCA adapters, it may be cheaper to just buy a new cable. Oh well.

jb

Originally posted by jb33
Not that I know what to do with the gamma table now that I've read it's description ;) I agree...the Gamma pattern is worthless:)

GAMMA=5 (for both 480i/p and 1080i) always seems to result in the most accurate curve for every Mits I've touched.

Originally posted by Marc Alexander
OVERSCAN

MENU-0357
Scroll modes - AUDIO
Scroll items - VIDEO
Save - ENTER
Cancel - Cancel
Exit - Menu

MODE - Def Jungle
Horizontal Width - HWID
Vertical Height - VHGT

MENU-0359 for geometry SM

Misc - 6
Coarse - 5
Fine - 4

Color (RGB) - AUDIO
Item Scroll - VIDEO
Cancel- CANCEL
Save and Exit - MENU

marc i have a ? what is the difference between the FINE and the COARSE... does one affect the other.. i have touched up the FINE but cant seem to get the COARSE to do anything.. is the COARSE the convergance in the service menu.... i have turned VM off completely by making the VMLE value 0....

COARSE contains the geometry controls like pincushion. I'll try and post all the details on this when I get home (I meant to long ago...but forgot).

i really appreciate you answering my ?'s.. i saw your post about buying a service manual and i did late last night... but thought in the mean time why not touch it up a little.. so the COARSE takes care of all the geometry stuff and the FINE is the convergance is that correct....

yep

marc ive never bought a servie manual before does it tell you how to do everything like specifically setup the geometry cause i do have some pincushion on 480p and 1080i its not real bad but its noticiable and it kinda bugs me..... i did notice on the coarse with RGB you could move the image up and down but that was it unless you could tell me some more.. i didnt save the settings in coarse i was just trying to get a feel for what i could do with it.... any kinda tips on this before i get the service manual would be great... thanks for your help..

Hi,
I've had it implied that the newer x25 DLP machines will integrate better with a HTPC than the x13/x15 CRTs - any comments?

I have tried to read every post in this thread, and I saw where some are outputting DVD video to the x13, but what about using it as a general pc monitor? The wife would like to be able to open emails/surf the web w/ a wireless keyboard from the couch, and the kids to play CDROM games. I am really leaning toward going with this more mature technology (CRT) over some of the teething pains going on with the DLPs regarding rainbows, eyestrain etc. Can anyone help with info on how well these models do as PC monitors, and how best to set it up?

Thanks in advance,
Paul

Originally posted by PauldF
Hi,
I've had it implied that the newer x25 DLP machines will integrate better with a HTPC than the x13/x15 CRTs - any comments?

I have tried to read every post in this thread, and I saw where some are outputting DVD video to the x13, but what about using it as a general pc monitor? The wife would like to be able to open emails/surf the web w/ a wireless keyboard from the couch, and the kids to play CDROM games. I am really leaning toward going with this more mature technology (CRT) over some of the teething pains going on with the DLPs regarding rainbows, eyestrain etc. Can anyone help with info on how well these models do as PC monitors, and how best to set it up?

Thanks in advance,
Paul
i have the 65813 and a sammy kirk. both are awesome, but I'd definately lean toward a digital set for regular pc, htpc use and gaming including console games. Also, karaoke, dvd games, hd sports.

enjoy.
jb

Yes, the DLP models will integrate much better as a HTPC. LCD is another technology that is great for HTPC.

marc could you explain to me the difference between the COARSE and the FINE in the service menu... heres one of the only issues i have with my set.... when a image scrolls from the top of the screen to the bottom of the screen just moving from top to bottom the image will role a little at the top in 1080i and roles a little at the bottom in 480p... i hope im explaining this correctly... maybe im confusing pincushion with my issue..... its like it bows outward in 1080i just at the top and bows in at the bottom in 480p....

Thanks Marc and JB,

I would be using whichever set for about 80% SD and DVD viewing (some OTA HD now and perhaps paid for programming in the future) and the other pc based viewing would only be about 20%. Based on this ratio I has hoped that I would get at least acceptable HTPC pq with the 65815 or 55815 and would really enjoy movies with friends and family. Would this ratio with these sets make any difference, or should I just bite the bullet and go with the more expensive 725 DLP models? I also wear contacts and frequently get very tired eyes after a long day and am very wary of the fatigue, rainbows and other issues even good DLP's seem to have especially with anything less than HD programming. Do any of these parameters make the CRTs seem the better choice - or not!??!

Originally posted by mikehbkwm
marc could you explain to me the difference between the COARSE and the FINE in the service menu... heres one of the only issues i have with my set.... when a image scrolls from the top of the screen to the bottom of the screen just moving from top to bottom the image will role a little at the top in 1080i and roles a little at the bottom in 480p... i hope im explaining this correctly... maybe im confusing pincushion with my issue..... its like it bows outward in 1080i just at the top and bows in at the bottom in 480p.... Sounds like you are experiencing "speed bumps". Adjusting the coarse adjustments likely won't help in this instance. You will have to adjust the green fine grid.

Get a tape measure and measure the space between grid lines in both 480p and 1080i modes. You will likely find that they are not equally spaced. If the spacing increases gradually, there is a parameter we can adjust. If just the top or bottom is increased, we will have to drag the green grid in the fine adjustment to compensate.

your right i do notice that some are not spaced evenly i really appreciate your help on all of this it makes alot of sense now... the coarse seems to just adjust RGB up or down is this correct and if so i really dont need to mess with it do i...

marc you out there just wanted your opinion on this last thing...

My WS-65813 has a bright spot in the middle of the screen that is driving me crazy. It is about the size of a silver dollar, and is only visible when the middle portion of the screen is a light, solid color (like a shot of the sky, a field of grass, or a white wall). When sitting on the floor in front of the TV it is most noticeable, and the further up I get the harder it is to see. Even when I am sitting with my head directly across from the center of the screen, in what is supposed to be the optimum viewing angle, I can still see it occasionally.

Has anyone else had this problem, and is there a fix for it? I have a 5-year warranty, if it is something that a service tech could fix.

Mike,

You have to fix the spacing using the fine adjustments on the green grid. I recommend purchasing a template before undergoing this effort. http://www.homecentric.com/forums/about280.html

PB, you are experiencing hot spotting. I have never seen this be distracting like you describe on a Mits set. Do you have the Diamond Shield on or off? Do you see any light in that spot when the TV is off?

I have the shield on because I have 1 and 3 yr old boys. The bright spot is not visible when the TV is off. Maybe I am being too picky, but this thing wasn't cheap.

I'd go check out a store display and see if you see it there. It may not be as bad on another set.