What a fabulous wealth of info in this thread.

I just purchased a 3250HD and am having many of the same problems reported. The software/firmware level in my box is 1.52.11.2 and my cable service is with Rogers in Toronto.

In no particular order of importance, I’m having the following problems:

1. The optical audio link doesn’t work at all. The cable is fine as I use it with another component in my system. My pre/pro tries to lock onto a signal but it doesn’t “quite” get one. There isn’t even a hint of audio.

2. The digital coax output works, but I have audio drop outs. I’ve discovered that setting it to “Other” rather than Dolby Digital fixes the problem but, of course, you can’t get DD 5.1.

3. I was watching the PBS HD demo loop and was getting popping noises through all my speakers. Switching to another channel seemed to fix it.

4. Setting the audio range only has an effect when audio is set to Other. It appears to do nothing on the Dolby Digital setting. I found that Narrow produces the loudest volume for casual listening and the other 2 settings are much lower.

The video quality of the 3250 is quite good, but I’m very disappointed in these other problems. I’ve discussed it with my cable company which advises that I exchange the box at the store where I purchased it (Best Buy).

I’m sceptical that trying another box will accomplish anything and am wondering whether anyone here has done it and found it fixed any of their problems.

TIA for any advice.

Originally posted by BillN96
Yes. In the settings there is a Background Color setting (Later today I will post the exact name). It is a little deceiving because the options are "Light", "Medium", and "Dark". The "dark" setting makes those bars black. The other two settings turn the bars gray and white respectively.

Sorry. I forgot to follow up my own solution. To change the color of the side bars, go into the General Settings menu (press the Menu button twice). Highlight "Set: TV Borders" in the Preference column. You have 3 choices: light, medium, and dark. The dark setting changes the side bars to black.

Hey Jim,
Recognized your face from over in the 8000HD thread...
If your 3250 box has no optical audio out, check to see if there is a red glow from around the connector. If it's dark - it's Broke - Take it back! It should be fairly bright and easy to see even in bright rooms without looking inside the connector (Warning - Don't look at the light directly by opening the jack!). It is tied to the other coax digital output.
If that looks ok, connect your optical cable. The other end will should be disconnected, and shine it on your hand or piece of notebook paper. The thin skin between your thumb and forefinger at the edge works well in a pinch. You should see the transfer of the light through the cable. It should still be bright, but you could compare it to your other sources to make sure. A dim light could be the result of a mis-aligned LED source. If it is different, take it back.
Audio dropouts are common in older software revisions. Your MSO may not have some of those specific patches yet, judging by your revision. The problem is the sync on DD signals between the two pieces of equipment. Keeping levels as NARROW, helps, but is not a true fix. Narrow just means that instead of having levels from an unheard whispers to glass breaking explosions, it will narrow that range to raise the whisper to be heard and lower the explosion so it does not break glass. An analogy is that audio cassette tapes have low dynamic range and CD's have a much higher dynamic range. The DD stream may break for a split second, but your receiver will take 1-2 seconds to re-sync the data, hence the difference in dropout times between the DD and PCM digital signals.

PBS sounds like a local issue if it is only on the single channel.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic
[B]Courier72: what's the date code on your SARA 1.52.6.1? And which MSO are you on?

Time Warner (Columbia, SC)

PTV OS: OS High Definition Edition 1.0
FLASH: 1.52.6.1
App(s): SARA v1.52.6.1

ROM Image: 1.52.6.1 02/14/04 08:32:39 PST
OS: 3.6.5.1 02/13/04 05:42:12 PST
SARA: 1.52.6.1 02/14/04 08:32:36 PST
PowerKey Library: 3.5.19.0 R 11/13/03 04:06:19 EST
HAL Driver: 1.2.13.0 01/28/04 10:57:25 PST
ATI Driver: 1.2.14.0 02/13/04 04:27:30 PST
PHAL Driver: 3.4.8.0 04/09/03 01:27:33 PDT

Hello,

I'm in KC and had TWC switch out my cable box to a SA3250HD to use 1394 to my TV. I own a WS65869 Mitsubishi HD TV /w promise module.

I had them bring what was suppose to be a firewire enabled 3250HD. Luckily I went and purchaed a 1394 cable myself prior to the tech showing up.

We plugged in the box using the 1394 cable. The TV did recognize the cable box it showed up "found scientific atlanta... blah blah..." I added the input. However I get NO video when I switch to the input via the device menu!?!?!

Another annoying thing. Everyone has said the "hold the select button for 3-5 seconds the mail notification light will go on" to get into the screen where I can see my firmware version.

Or press the "guide and info" button at the same time to get into the output setup.

NONE of those work on my 3250HD. And yes I am pressing and holding the select button.

Could TW have locked me out of those menus?

HELP! from what I have heard I am one of 2-3 people in KC trying to make 1394 work. Hopefully someone has some good information for me :)

thanks!

SiGGy:

Just a thought, I had the same problem with the buttons until I realized I was pushing the wrong ones. When you look at them on the panel front, there is a tendency to push the lower 2 instead of the upper ones. At least, I did, so maybe you're doing the same thing.

Can't help too much on the firewire, but for the other stufff.

Read the sig. I know you put it in your post, but put it in your profile.

Your system may be running Passport software instead of SARA. Those instructions and this thread are primarily for SARA users. To see what OS you are using, unplug the STB from power, hold the power button and reinsert the power plug and watch the TV screen.
When pressing the buttons, you MUST USE the FRONT PANEL buttons, not the remote. The Select button is the Center button on the front navigation panel. The output setup (Guide + Info) is done with the STB power OFF.

vegggas

SiGGy,

In KC the boxes are running Pioneer Passport software. You can view the diagnostics screens by going to channel 611. From there you can navigate to a screen that gives the firmware version.

Originally posted by vegggas
Can't help too much on the firewire, but for the other stufff.

Read the sig. I know you put it in your post, but put it in your profile.

Your system may be running Passport software instead of SARA. Those instructions and this thread are primarily for SARA users. To see what OS you are using, unplug the STB from power, hold the power button and reinsert the power plug and watch the TV screen.
When pressing the buttons, you MUST USE the FRONT PANEL buttons, not the remote. The Select button is the Center button on the front navigation panel. The output setup (Guide + Info) is done with the STB power OFF.

vegggas

Awesome, channel 611 worked, thanks!

here's my info. Maybe this will give everyone some insight.

Versions:

ResApp Version: PASSPORT 3.2 build 021
OS version: PowerTV 3.8.2.1sp
Driver Version: 3.8.2.1sp
ResApp Date: Apr 7 2004 16:06:06
Os Date: Mar 26 2004, 6:16:23PM
PowerKey: PKEY_3.5.20.130-p

Hardware:

BIPVer: 2cc9412
MACVer: 34855 HWConfigVer: 0015

IEEE 1394
vendor: Scientific-Atlanta
All numbers are at 0

Then I hit select to cycle to the next device
Vendor: MITSUBISHI ProjectionTV
All numbers are 0

Thanks for the help!

Siggy
I had the same problem with my ws55711, best answer I found was that there was a problem that SA was aware of it and it would be fixed eventually.
My Cable Co is using SARA so it may be a little different.

The really funny thing is that although I was not able to watch via 1394 I was able to record and playback to my Mistu DVHS deck, by using the Netcommand menus.

Recently Tweeter replaced my ws55711(Netcommand 2.0) with a ws55813 (Netcommand 3.0) and now I can watch via firewire, but still can't change the channels.

Originally posted by SiGGy
Awesome, channel 611 worked, thanks! That is one thing I really like about Passport, you don't have to get up and push a bunch of buttons to get to that kind of info. :) I know it's probably not used that often, but how hard would it be to change SARA to do it like Passport does?

Originally posted by bdraw
Siggy
I had the same problem with my ws55711, best answer I found was that there was a problem that SA was aware of it and it would be fixed eventually.
My Cable Co is using SARA so it may be a little different.

The really funny thing is that although I was not able to watch via 1394 I was able to record and playback to my Mistu DVHS deck, by using the Netcommand menus.

Recently Tweeter replaced my ws55711(Netcommand 2.0) with a ws55813 (Netcommand 3.0) and now I can watch via firewire, but still can't change the channels.

Interesting, so I wonder if it has something to do with the promise module. Your basically saying after you swapped out the TV it started working. Scary, I hope I don't have to get Mitsu to send me a new module, and or a service repair to get it fixed. :(

It's interesting you could play the recording back, but not watch it directly. ugh.

Where did you find out that SA knew they had a problem?

I wonder if anyone has it working with my TV. It also seems very few people have the passport software on the 3250HD.

Originally posted by DoubleDAZ
That is one thing I really like about Passport, you don't have to get up and push a bunch of buttons to get to that kind of info. :) I know it's probably not used that often, but how hard would it be to change SARA to do it like Passport does?
I have not used the passport software for a long time. Using the remote to go to a single channel does seems like a good idea. With SARA, you can bring up the diagnosics screen and then change channels to look at the different levels at various frequncies along the analog and digital spectrum. Not too sure if Passport allows that, since it's a dedicated channel map.

vegggas

fwiw

my SA3250 firewire works with my Sony KV32XBR950 LCD but you have to go through several steps:

-hit iLink on Sony remote
-iLink device list comes up: hit Set Top Box: shows S/A Explorer Status: Ready : Press select to connect
-after pressing select (center of pad on remote) the right hand view box will be labeled with the 3250 but it takes about 5 seconds for the pic to appear
-hit exit to get full screen

Sara v1.56.4.1

Originally posted by SiGGy
Where did you find out that SA knew they had a problem?


I read it here at AVS. Not sure if it was in this 25 page thread or another 25 page over at the HDTVrecording forum. But I did read it here, and I have not gotten a new update for atleast a few months. I don't think a new PM is the problem, I believe it is a problem with the SA box.

I have even gotten an email from the Head developer for both Netcommand and the SA firebus driver, and he said that SA would fix it.

With netcommand 2.0 select the firewire as the input then imediatly hit record and setup your recording, before the screen goes blue. It is easier with netcommand 3.0 since you can hit record from any input and change the input before settting up the recording.

Wierd! the 1394 started to work this morning. I should go check my firmware and see if I got a update. Figures. Ya, it takes about 5 seconds sometimes more from when I initally select the input to start showing up. but changing channels is approx 2 seconds if even. (I take that back, it sometimes takes up to 15-20 seconds to start showing up form inital selection of the 1394 input, then after it's fast changing channels)

And yes, the promiside modules MPEG-2 decoder is much better than SA's. Especially for the SD digital /w all the upconverting to 1080i.

Well for whatever reason its working I'm happy :) Time to change my sig.


thanks for all the help everyone!

SiGGY
Are you changing the channels with the Mitsu remote via 1394 or the SA?

Originally posted by bdraw
SiGGY
Are you changing the channels with the Mitsu remote via 1394 or the SA?

I've been using SA, I'll try the Mitsu real quick.

"the tuner can not tune to the programming" is what it says. "tuner" is what the name of the 1394 SA input is.

It also reboots the TV if I hit the "device menu" while it's aquiring the stream from the SA.

When I hit "Guide" on the Mitsu it brings up...
CHANNEL NAME TITLE
PROGRAM01


Also Discovery HD does not show up over the 1394. Another interesting thing I noticed with DiscHD is when I had 480p and 1080i enabled on the SA it would choose 480p when selecting DiscHD. I wonder is DiscHD is 720p?

Do any of you know if the Scientific Atlanta 3250HD STB that Cox uses has a setting for 16:9 output for the S connector? When recording to my Sony RDR-GX7 DVD recorder (with recording mode set to 16:9 with DVD-R media) via S connector, I am getting bars on my plasma on the "full" mode which is used for 16:9 signals. If I change to "movie 1" which zooms up the bars it looks right. I am thinking that I do not have the 3250HD set to widescreen output for the S output, however I cannot find it in the settings menu (I do have the 16:9 selected in the advanced mode for the component outs to the Plasma). There is a "picture" setting that has "pass through" or "fixed" and I have it set to "pass through" with all the resolution selected. The HD channels look correct (no bars) on the "full" size setting on the Hitachi 4202 through the component outs from the SA STB. On the GX7 (S Connector) they have grey bars. Any suggestions? The playback on my Samsung 27"HDTV CRT (4:3) is letterboxed in the "normal" mode which I think is correct.
As far as VIEWING the 16:9 HD channel through the GX7 input 1 connected to the 3250 via S connector, I'm figuring it will always have the grey bars right? However, PLAYING BACK a DVD-R (or DVD-RW) that I recorded from a 16:9 HD channel in the 16:9 recording mode should not have the grey bars on my 42" PDP right?
I posted this in the DVD recorder forum but haven't gotten a response. It was suggested I try here.

AFAIK, the picture settings are only for the component output. I don't think S-Video is affected by choosing different screen types, but I may be wrong.

Thanks Jim. I have the 3250 component outs going to the Hitachi PDP (always displays HD in 16:9 no bars). The S connector out on the 3250 into the Sony GX7 S in, and the GX7 outs component into the PDP component in as well...

As an update I installed the vivid firebus software on a PC and connected it up. It worked great for a bit. IBut I ended up having to reset my TV and cable box. (by power cycling them)

when I did that my firewire stopped working... so I'm back to square one :(


ugh, hopefully it magically starts working again :-/

For anyone who didn't read my past threads, I had TWC bring me a 3250HD box for the 1394 ports. When the installer came the 1394 didn't work (the device showed up on the TV, but I wouldn't get video). Then like magic I tried it again the next day, and it worked ... now after power cycling everything it's dead again :(


very wierd...

I got the word from Veggas that the 3250 DOES NOT output to 16:9 via the "S" connector...

Just thought I'd post and update.

I called SA, TWC-KC, and Mitsubishi.

SA
said I needed to call TWC and ask them for the newest software for my box. Their new software addresses a bunch of problems I am hearing.

TWC-KC
I spent 3 hours with them on the phone. Finally they transfered me to their main technicians. ( I finally got the guys behind the scenes on the phone :D) They said I had what they thought to be the newest software out there. They were going to see if they could find some information on the software. And also call around and see if anyone has my setup working. (see if they can spot the difference)

Mitsubishi
This is interesting for any of your WS-65869 owners! or anyone with promise module! (on my tv it's MENU-0-1-7-0 to see what version you have. then MENU to exit)

Mitsubishi tech found my NetCommand Software: V19 001.02 is out of date.
And said my problems were related to that. They are sending me a new software card that goes into the promise module.

I bet the promise module software card will fix it. Especially since someone mentioned in an earlier post when they got a new Mitsu. TV the problem went away (i.e. the newer software card).

I'll post and update in 2 weeks when I get it. And I'll also post any information TWC-KC tech give me.

Originally posted by SiGGy
I bet the promise module software card will fix it. Especially since someone mentioned in an earlier post when they got a new Mitsu. TV the problem went away (i.e. the newer software card).

FYI , I still can't change the channel so it doesn't work completly.

Originally posted by bdraw
FYI , I still can't change the channel so it doesn't work completly.


Oh, im sure there's more problems to come. I'm just addressing them one at a time here ;)

It'll be nice to be able to watch via the firewire at all or reliably.

Hi guys I just got the 3250HD from TW in Green Bay yesterday and need your help. The box loses picture running DVI connection every time I turn on or off MY Plasma Panny 50" screen. I can recover the picture by up unplugging then plugging back in the DVI connector. As you may guess I choose not to continue doing this. I call local Tech support and they said that this it is normal. Anyone else need to unplug and replug the DVI to get the DVI working.:( Is this fixable? help the clue less tech's here solve this problem. Thanks

I notice this stb takes about 5 seconds to do an HDCP handshake: this may happen every time you turn your plasma on/off or select the DVI input for the stb

It is a SA issue

I think some of the folks here recommend leaving your set tuned to an HD channel when turning it on and off. This seems to negate the need to re-handshake with HDCP or something. I don't have a DVI cable, so I don't know. YMMV.

Switch between analog channel and HD channel will reinitiate the HDCP handshake. It works for me most of the time as long as you didn't see HDCP alert message screen. Yes, you lost DVI everytime you shutdown the TV or simply switch to non-DVI input (depends on TV design as well). I didn't notice much PQ improvement at all via DVI and ended up going back to component connection. Less hassle.

Thats for the replies folks. I tried shutting down from the Hi def channels and still does't work. Thanks Hollywood for messing with or HDTV's. If anyone knows of a work around for this let me know. It just sucks $145.00 for a DVI card now more money for a VGA to component connector or $145 component switch. Allways something.

Yup, I am not able to use DVI from my 3250 to my Sanyo Z2. No matter what I try, it will not work. It's SA's fault, but they don't seem to care about it.

Anyone here using the IR Blaster/VCR Commander with the 3250HD to control a JVC30K/40K or Mitsubishi D-VHS deck for timed recordings? I recall reading that some are using it and finding it works, but I cannot find the post.

I am talking about this thing here:

http://www.sciatl.com/customers/Source/752296.pdf

jdallaire,
I have the exact same problem. I have Panny, 42 edtv w/ DVI card, Comcast SA3250 (located in Reston VA). The set somewhat worked until 2 days ago. A new image was flashed to the stb and now HDCP does not sync at all. I can make it work by unplugging the stb and then plugging it back in. That works until I turn of the TV or stb. After the TV is turned off the HDCP will not re-sync unless I unplug the stb again. This is very annoying.

A tech is coming out to see the problem today. He will not be able to do anything about it but at least IO can talk to someone in person.

I say the set somewhat worked because before 2 days ago I had to change channels to force the resolution to change to make the HDCP sync up again. That was a decent work around. This having to remove the power cord is intolerable.

For those with DVI / HDCP handshaking issues...

It's the handshake that's causing the problem. After unplugging the DVI cable, try turning the TV on FIRST and THEN powering on cable box. This should eliminate any sync issues. However, if you turn the TV off first and then power the cable box OFF, the cable box will think the HDCP has been compromised -- even in standby. Leaving your cable box always ON (with TV off) will do the same thing.

This should resolve your issues. I would STILL complain to the STB manufacturer. They (SA and Motorola) are to blame.

I will try that soundboy.
The tech came out... scratched his head, and left. Nice guy, but did not have a clue about the hdtv. I hope I can elevate this so that SA and/or comcast will apply a fix.

Correct me if I wrong, but I didn't think DVI was going to be officially supported until the mandatory date next year. I thought you were pretty much on your own, you can use it if you get it working, but there isn't any real support for it yet. I thought I read that some cableco's actually disabled DVI for that reason. Am I missing something?

Originally posted by SiGGy
Just thought I'd post and update.

I called SA, TWC-KC, and Mitsubishi.

SA
said I needed to call TWC and ask them for the newest software for my box. Their new software addresses a bunch of problems I am hearing.

TWC-KC
I spent 3 hours with them on the phone. Finally they transfered me to their main technicians. ( I finally got the guys behind the scenes on the phone :D) They said I had what they thought to be the newest software out there. They were going to see if they could find some information on the software. And also call around and see if anyone has my setup working. (see if they can spot the difference)

Mitsubishi
This is interesting for any of your WS-65869 owners! or anyone with promise module! (on my tv it's MENU-0-1-7-0 to see what version you have. then MENU to exit)

Mitsubishi tech found my NetCommand Software: V19 001.02 is out of date.
And said my problems were related to that. They are sending me a new software card that goes into the promise module.

I bet the promise module software card will fix it. Especially since someone mentioned in an earlier post when they got a new Mitsu. TV the problem went away (i.e. the newer software card).

I'll post and update in 2 weeks when I get it. And I'll also post any information TWC-KC tech give me.

I, for one, will be very interested in the results. I have exactly the same setup except I am going through Cox instead of TWC. I have also ordered the software update. The Cox tech brought out a JVC D-VHS box to test against on his last visit. It saw the 3250HD over 1394 with no problem, and the TV saw the JVC box and played its video stream (very badly).

It's nice to have company...

TW tech is scheduled to come out on Monday to change boxes. Manager at TM says this DVI funtionality should work. We will see. I will let you know what happens. I don't have that much faith in TW people on this site seem to have more knowledge but we will give them a chance. Voom is looking better every day. I just don't want to pay for all the extra TV's that will need hardware. Wife is already whining about the 7.95 a month charge for the HDTV box. I am about to make the executive decision.

Originally posted by Matt_Stevens

Anyone here using the IR Blaster/VCR Commander with the 3250HD to control a JVC30K/40K or Mitsubishi D-VHS deck for timed recordings? I recall reading that some are using it and finding it works, but I cannot find the post.[/B]

I have a Mits 65869 (HDTV), SA 3250HD, and the Mits HD1100U DVCR. The problem I've never resolved with VCR Commander is that when it powers on the DVCR, the default DVCR channel is L1 (analog) rather than d1 (firewire). I deleted all (RF) channels in the DVCR, hoping the power up channel would be d1, but there doesn't seem to be away to delete the analog input channel L1. So If I use VCR Commander, it'll record the analog signal input, rather than the firewire input!

I can record the SA 3250HD's firewire output manually OK, even though I can't watch it directly on my Mits HDTV (Software vers.: SARA 1.56, Mits V19 001.04). Also, although I can use Mits NetCommand to timer record the OTA HD signals using the 65869's integrated tuner. This doesn't work with when the SA 3250HS's firewire "tuner device" is selected. I hoping a software fix from SA will address both the inability to view direct and the inability to use NetCommand to timer record. If this software fix were out, then I could probably use VCR Commander (WITHOUT the IR) to set and lock the proper channel on the SA 3250, and use NetCommand to powerup the DVCR, set the channel on the DVCR to d1, and start recording at the proper time.

--hourglass

Originally posted by hourglass
The problem I've never resolved with VCR Commander is that when it powers on the DVCR, the default DVCR channel is L1 (analog) rather than d1 (firewire). What channel does DVCR default to if you power it up manually? If it simply default to the last channel it was on, do you have the Commander set to Channel 3/4 or A/V? I think if you set it to 3/4, it won't try to change the channel when it powers up the recorder, but I think it does when it's set to A/V.

I have one VCR where the Commander can't change the VCR to the A/V channel (L1), but it can for the other VCR I have. So, for the one it doesn't I simply set the Commander to 3/4 and leave the VCR on L1. It stays that way when the Commander powers it up to record.

I don't know if this will work for you, but it might be worth a shot.

hourglass
I would call Mitsubishi and see if there is a Netcommand update for your TV.
I have a ws55813 and am able to record from the SA3250(save ver) only thing I can't do is change the channel.

I was also able to do this with my old TV ws55711.

It is worth a call.

Ben

Interesting. Anyone have experience with the VCR Commander and one of the JVC decks?

If your deck has the equivalent of the SA product, it should work. I have an old Sony VCR, which came with a remote commander. I've tried it with SA digital boxes, and it works perfectly.

Originally posted by Matt_Stevens
Interesting. Anyone have experience with the VCR Commander and one of the JVC decks?
I'm using the VCR Commander with a JVC 30K and the 3250HD (Passport software), and it does the job. I just have to make sure I leave the JVC on when doing scheduled recordings, as the 3250HD doesn't power on and off the JVC, it just sends the commands to start and stop recording.

Just to clarify fcsmith's post.... The Passport software does not support "VCR Commander"; it's for something called "VCR Controller" (as you'll notice in the "setup" menu). I assume the hardware is identical, just the software that controls it is different.

The "VCR Controller" furnished with the Passport software for the SA3250HD only allows for turning on/off the recording function in the JVC decks, and not the more complete function of turning the deck on/off in addition to the record function. Presumably, the SARA software supports "VCR Commander" and the additional functionality of turning the decks on and off. Someone with SARA software may want to chime in and verify this.

Anyone else experiencing odd behavior with the SA3250HD and DVI? I'm on TWCNYC and it seems the menu and setup options have been disabled on the box. Specifically, holding down the select button while the box is on doesn't do anything and holding down guide and info buttons while the box is off does nothing as well. Additionally, if i turn on the box and it was set to a non hd channel, i get grey bars on the top and bottom of my screen (i have a 4:3 set) and the hd content is cropped on the sides. It also looks as if it's downconverted. If i turn on the box and it was set to a HD channel, everything gets upconverted to 1080i.

anyone know what's going on?

thanks.

[/B][/QUOTE] Originally posted by archiguy
Presumably, the SARA software supports "VCR Commander" and the

additional functionality of turning the decks on and off. Someone with

SARA software may want to chime in and verify this. [/QUOTE]

SARA does power on/off the Mits DVCR. This may be VCR specific. I tried

all codes for Mits and a few others, trying to find a code set that does

start/stop record, but fails to power on/off. No luck.

With all RF channels deleted, the default power-up channel for the Mits

DVCR is L1 which is analog. For those using VCR Commander to record

analog, that's great, but no good for firewire. (Note- if you power off

the DVCR with channel d1 active and then power on within 30 seconds, d1

will stay the active channel, BUT wait more than that, and L1 ALWAYS

comes up as the active channel.)

The problem I have with using Mits NetCommand to start the recording is

that although Netcommand does set the DVCR channel properly to d1,and

begins the recording on time, I get a "NO COPY" error messege on the DVCR

within 10 seconds. This is apparently a bug in the 5C rights management

software within the Mits HDTV when connected to the SA 3250. I say this

because I can record the same program manually on the Mits DVCR

(bypassing the HDTV).

I think I'm current on the Mits software (Vers V19 001.04), But I know SA

is aware of the problem between SA and Mits HDTV's and I think they have

or soon will have a version of SARA higher than 1.56 that may fix this.

--hourglass

Hourglass
Yeah I am lucky here BHN has not activated 5C yet.
Others are having problems recording despite this.
The only problem I have is that I can't change the channel with the TV's remote or with netcommand. So I have to schedule the recording in both the 3250 and with Netcommand.

I went thru the setup procedure and I had some success and some failures. Here is my set up: coax coming from the wall into the STB, DVI cable going from the STB into TV (Panasonic CT34WX53), didital coax going from STB to receiver. As for picture choices I'm not sure I made the right decisions I picked 1080i and thats all. Then in settings I picked stretch mode to fill the screen. Is this right or should I have selected Upconvert 1? My set does not support 720P. Now for the really bad news on channels <101 I get no sound. On channels >101 I get digital sound. I get 5.1 on some but not all channels. Prior to changing things tonight I had digital sound on all channels and 5.1 on some channels. I'm sure it's something simple but don't tell me I have to use analog cables. Thanks....andy

andrew jc,

For the audio part I would take a look at your receiver and see if that digital coax input is set for some type of "auto detect" for the format. I know on my Pio Elite 45tx that you can set digital inputs to be only digital or only analog or you can it set to Auto. With auto when I change my SA3250HD box from a low analog channel to a digital channel the receiver display shows the signal type as switching from analog to digital. I am not sure if I wrote that clearly or not....

As for the the resolution output from the SA3250HD to your set, here's what I did and what I believe is suggested throughout this thread. In the setup wizard enable ALL the resolutions that your TV can support. For you that would mean not enabling the 720p, etc... but the rest. Now in the regular SA box menu system for the video output set that to "Pass-Through" this will let the box pass along all the resolutions (that you enabled in the setup wizard) to the TV. I believe (note not sure) that the resolutions you disabled get upscaled to 1080i. This way your TV does the work for all the resolutions it can accept to make it the native resolution of your TV.

The opposite of this set also works good for some. That is where you set the box to use the Upconvert 1 or 2 and you will have to read up in the SA manual. BTW If you did not get the manuals from your cable company (which I did not get any instructions) someone had posted a link to the PDFs of them in this thread (I believe) and they are helpful for this type of decision making.

Good-Luck.

Beaker1024, Thanks for the reply. I do understand you first paragraph. Yes, the digital coax is set to auto and there is no cable because it does work eventually. However like I stated before prior to making changes all my channels were digital as indicated by my receiver. I just don't understand why it changed.

Since I'm using the DVI connection on my STB to the TV I have it set to "auto-DVI". Then under settings I set the picture to stretch to fill my screen. The picture is much better however I do have a lot of grain on SD channels. I attribute this to Charter's signal or the up-conversion in my TV. Thanks for your help.

Originally posted by andrew jc
I went thru the setup procedure and I had some success and some failures. Here is my set up: coax coming from the wall into the STB, DVI cable going from the STB into TV (Panasonic CT34WX53), didital coax going from STB to receiver. As for picture choices I'm not sure I made the right decisions I picked 1080i and thats all. Then in settings I picked stretch mode to fill the screen. Is this right or should I have selected Upconvert 1? My set does not support 720P. Now for the really bad news on channels <101 I get no sound. On channels >101 I get digital sound. I get 5.1 on some but not all channels. Prior to changing things tonight I had digital sound on all channels and 5.1 on some channels. I'm sure it's something simple but don't tell me I have to use analog cables. Thanks....andy
The 3250 will take the analog audio and do an A to D conversion for channels below 100, so you should get digital audio out on all channels. I'm not in front of a digital reciever right now, but check that the AUDIO:output is set to fixed in the settings menu. You may have turned down the analog volume on the STB before it can be converted to digital. Just a thought.
5.1 is only available when the station is broadcasting it in 5.1. If they are not broadcasting 5.1, it is generally sent in 2.0 or just plain digital PCM stereo.
The image will usually look poor on SD channels if you are upconverting it to higher resolutions. The main reason is that the TV will bypass most of it's processing of signals at HD resolutions. The downside is that many TV's will also not accept a 480i signal on the DVI input so that processing can be done on the SD signals. A good tradeoff is to use 480P, if your TV allows noise reduction and film/video processing at that resolution. You will get a MUCH better picture if the native resolution can be passed through.

vegggas

Well I can't explain this one but I'll give it a shot. I came home today and my wife was watch TV on channel 5 with digital sound! I asked her what she did to get it working and she had no clue. I checked a few minutes ago and I'm getting all channels in digital. I'll still see if adding different resolution helps PQ currently the only option I selected is 1080i. Right now the HD channels look great. SD is not horrible but it looks washed out in comparison. Thanks everyone for your help.

Ok, this my cable company is getting me angry at the moment. I have the 3250HD box with the DVI connection, which is not enabled. My firmware is old and I asked the cable company why they dont have the version that enables DVI and here is what i got:

Ricky,

Thank you for contacting WOW! Internet and Cable.

According to our network operations center our supplier hasn't finished testing and development of the DVI software. Once they are done we will test it on our equipment and then release the update. If you have additional questions, you can call into our toll free support phone line 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The phone number is 1.866.496.9669.

Thank you,

Michael Munson (ID: WNU)
WOW! Internet and Cable
1-866-4-WOW-NOW
1-866-496-9669

To my knowledge, from reading this thread, the version has been finished and released. Is my cable company lieing to me?

Is anyone using TW in NYC with HD 3250 HD. In suggestion or set-up tips? I have not been able to make any changes suggested on this thread with this box.

SV

svolman: I called twcnyc yesterday and they told me that the setup options are disabled on the 3250hd. In addition, the tech said that the dvi shouldn't even be working and is not supported AT ALL on ANY sciAtl box. Also, there are no software updates planned until the sa8000hd release which will be at the end of the year.

Obviosly, since DVI is working, just not working well, these statements need to be taken with a grain of salt. however, i wouldn't hold my breath for any changes soon.

perhaps you can get further with them than i did. if so, please share.

Im lost on what you said...

Ok folks, today TeleMedia/Adelphia in Central/Southern CT updated my 3250HD to 1.56.4.1 SARA software and my Firewire is now activated.

However, it is all messed up. Here are the issues I am having...

1. JVC40K will try and sync up, but will fail and display a black screen with no sound.

2. JVC30K will receive all HD channels and record them, however, once I have the 30K on, if I shut it off, then turn it back on later, it gives me a 480i downconversion error and will not record content. I must unplug the 30K for a good 3 to 4 minutes and then turn it back on to get it to work. I have to do this every time the 30K is turned on, then off.

3. Any recordings made on the 30K will not play on the 40K.

4. Any recordings I make have random, non-repeatable sound dropouts every few minutes.

5. My Mitsubishi 2000U D-VHS decks seems to have no problems with the 3250HD, but I have not done much testing with it yet.

So, where in the hell do I begin?! I know it is going to be difficult to explain this to the TeleMedia folks, who have struggled with this issue for months. How can I help them fix these issues, which are clearly on their end and not mine?

I have cross posted this in my own ongoing thread in the recording forum.

I have Firebus 2.5.7.1. Is there a later version that corrects sound dropouts?

Just for background, I do not yet have an HDTV or the SA3250 box, just trying to learn before I get both. I am in Austin , TX, with Time Warner cable. I also will not have a audio receiver when I do get the HDTV and SA3250.

Question is, when using the DVI connection (or even the S-video), which audio out do I use to make sound go to the TV ? Seems like the component
output has its own set of audio output.

If I use both DVI and Component audio out, how do I connect and make
audio go through a VCR ?

Thanks

Dick

Just for background, I do not yet have an HDTV or the SA3250 box, just trying to learn before I get both. I am in Austin , TX, with Time Warner cable. I also will not have a audio receiver when I do get the HDTV and SA3250.

Question is, when using the DVI connection (or even the S-video), which audio out do I use to make sound go to the TV ? Seems like the component
output has its own set of audio output.

If I use both DVI and Component audio out, how do I connect and make
audio go through a VCR ?

Thanks

Dick

For analog audio out, there is only one regardless of video connection.

Originally posted by jdallaire
TW tech is scheduled to come out on Monday to change boxes. Manager at TM says this DVI funtionality should work. We will see. I will let you know what happens. I don't have that much faith in TW people on this site seem to have more knowledge but we will give them a chance. Voom is looking better every day. I just don't want to pay for all the extra TV's that will need hardware. Wife is already whining about the 7.95 a month charge for the HDTV box. I am about to make the executive decision.
Sorry for the delay in the update...

I upgraded the TV and it's still not working :(

So I suppose if SA ever adresses the issue we might get it working. I'm at a loss...

Originally posted by Dick
Just for background, I do not yet have an HDTV or the SA3250 box, just trying to learn before I get both. I am in Austin , TX, with Time Warner cable. I also will not have a audio receiver when I do get the HDTV and SA3250.

Question is, when using the DVI connection (or even the S-video), which audio out do I use to make sound go to the TV ? Seems like the component
output has its own set of audio output.

If I use both DVI and Component audio out, how do I connect and make
audio go through a VCR ?

Thanks

Dick

DVI & Component are both for Video signal. Moreover, you cannot use both at the same time. I just experimented with my 3250HD and if one is plugged in the other is disabled (DVI disables Component).

My 3250 has Digital Coax, Optical, and Standard L & R options. You can use either one depending on what your TV can do.

Best get a receiver and route all signal to it.

Has anyone experienced any vertical white lines while watching digital and analog channels on their HDTV with the 3250 HD box? I just got my 3250HD box yesterday from Brighthouse (Time Warner) here in Central Florida, and I get these vertical white lines all over the screen when watching analog and digital feeds through component input. When watching HD feed, however, the picture looks great. I have it set at 1080i fixed because my HDTV does not support 720p, but it does upconvert it to 1080i. I'm not sure if I set it up correctly, and would appreciate any help to get rid of the white lines.

What brand / model TV do you have? I have read that some Sony HD ready TVs exhibit white lines (not sure if verticle or horizontal or even same as what you have) when feed a 1080i signal (from anything, upconverting/upscaling DVD player, Dish HD, Cable HD feeds). The fix for the Sony (not sure if other brands have a similar issues I have just read up on the Sony issue) is a new circuit board if it's an old revision and if the TV has the correct board then it's a service menu toggle or something like that. You might turn something up by searching the TV forums here for your set.

Of course there is always the good chance that your problem has nothing at all to do with your TV and it's the 3250HD STB from the cable company that is flacky somewhere and a simple switching out of the box might help. I've had my 3250HD box from comcast for about 7 months and I have never seen any white line issues on a Panansonic RPLCD.

I just bought a Hitachi 42HDT51...and used the SA 3250HD box with the component cable for the first time. I selected all formats (480i p, 720p, 1080i) and the next day I plugged in a DVI cable. The TV only shows one output format from the box (which was the one that I last watched at).

Is this normal? 1080i for std tv? Can I change it into variable when using dvi?

Thanx.

I just bought a Hitachi 42HDT51...and used the SA 3250HD box with the component cable for the first time. I selected all formats (480i p, 720p, 1080i) and the next day I plugged in a DVI cable. The TV only shows one output format from the box (which was the one that I last watched at).

Is this normal? 1080i for std tv? Can I change it into variable when using dvi?

Thanx.

Last night my SA3250HD box from Comcast went totally flaky. It kept messing with the Picture Format to where it would be set (in the menu) for Pass-Through like always but the picture would be a stretched version with the top, bottom and possibly the sides cut off. The HD channels did not look like HD. I could force it to be correct by going to the menu and picking Pass-Through again (it was already on that setting but just doing it again) and the channel would be fine until I changed channels. Changing channels put it back to the stretched cutting off mode (with no real HD PQ on HD channels too).

This was highly frustrating but I believe it has been fixed but disconnecting both the power (physically pulling the plug) and the cable RF feed. I left them off for a few minutes and upon reconnecting (and re-downloading info) everything worked fine. Now I am hoping that this doesn't happen again.

Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else? Or if anyone knows if a new firmware update is being rolled out anytime soon. Thanks in advance.

Have you tried using the # key on the remote control to select between the normal, stretch and zoom modes?

There is no magical # key on the remote (the did manage to put the freaking VOD buttons on the grey remote... like that's really helpful!).... sorry it's a sore topic between me and Comcast unhelpful tech support. I do all adjustments within the user menu 2nd level (hit button twice for full screen menu not small one).

Thanks for the idea though. Plus the problem was you could set it up perfectly and when ever you changed the channel it went into a really bad (no-HD) stretched mode. It was frustrating but the cold reboot with the RF and AC feeds being pulled seem to have done the trick.

I'm trying to hook this box up via the DVI input of my Toshiba 51H83. After reading through this forum, I am fixing the DVI handshake problem via flipping back and forth between two channels with different resolutions. However, I have a problem with the actual DVI picture. The picture appears to be quite dark and grainy, much moreso than using the component video inputs on my tv. No matter how I just the picture, it still appears to have this dark quality (I believe this might be called "black crush" by others more knowledgable?). I'm using a $100 Monster DVI-D single link cable, so I wouldn't think it's a cable issue (although I have a cheaper cable on the way and plan on trying it when I get it just to be sure, before I return the Monster to Best Buy). Thanks for anyone that can offer any help or advice.

Beaker1024- Its the ENTER key on remotes that don't have a # key to switch between stretch-zoom-normal modes. Only works on component out. --houglass

Sorry if this has been asked before, there is a lot of stuff here to read through. Here is my problem, I have a SA3250HD box and my TV is a Samsung HLN617 DLP. I veiw SD via S-Video and watch the Hi-Def stuff through Component 2. The issue is the Hi-Def picture seems to be missing stuff on the sides as if it was cropped. On Component 2 I have two picture modes, Normal and wide, both are showing as cropped. When I change to S-Video the full picture is fine even in panorama mode. Is there something I can do to correct the cropping issue when viewing HD inputs?

Resist,

Sounds to me like you have to go into the 3250 set up menu to set up your TV spec to 16:9.

I have no idea how to do that with the 3250. I have yet to be able to find a menu on this thing.

Resist,

There should be a link on this thread or in this forum for this STB that will give you the PDFs for the setup manuals for the SA3250HD or you can just look through SA's site for the manuals. I had to print out these manuals and use them to get into the On-Screen Setup wizard which takes you through the screen size and selection of what resolutions (resolution and width) that you TV can accept. You get to enable or disable resolution / screen sizes that you want or do not want to use. There are two ways of doing this: 1) On screen with setup wizard or 2) TV off and using the STB's little display. I recommend the on screen wizard.

You should only have to do this once unless your box gets completely reset (this doesn't happen by the power going out, etc...) or you get your box swapped out.

On a more regular basis you might want to enter the user menu (2nd level) to change the color theme, audio outputs, Video mode (pass-through, Upconvert-1/2, etc...) this should also be in one of the PDF manuals but should be easily accesiable via the menu button your remote (hit it a second time to get to the full user menu).

PS I am assuming here that your SA3250HD is using the SA Explorer software and not the Pioneer (?) software. If it is not the SA Explorer software then disregard my statements as my experience is only with Explorer.

Resist,

If you use Pioneer Passport software (not SARA - see Beaker's post above), then hit "Settings" on the remote, then "A" for "More Settings" and scroll to the "Aspect Ratio" option. There you can set your TV as 16:9 and choose either "Sidebar", "Stretch" or "Zoom" for 4:3 content - I usually go with "Sidebar" on my Samsung and then either zoom it or stetch it (Wide) via the Samsung if I want.

This box is from Charter Cable, they didn't leave me any instructions on how to get into the menu. I already have the pdf of the instructions but nothing gets me into the menu to make changes. I am stumped.


EricScott,

I have no idea what this software is you are talking about or how to use it.

Resist,

When you say the pdf of instructions, I am assuming you are talking about the Sci Altanta instructions from their website. If their method for getting into the setup menus using "Guide" and "Info" on the box won't work, then you likely have Passport software and should try to access the setup menus using the "Settings" button on the remote as I described above.

The other possibility is that your cable company somehow blocked you from changing any of the settings - that would obviously be a bad thing.

BTW, when I am describing the software, I am simply talking about the interface, interactive programming guide, etc. that is built into your box - it is either SARA or Passport. Without specifically looking for it, you would never know which version you have.

Settings doesn't allow me access to the box menu. I guess the only thing I can do now it call the Charter Cable and ask them. I didn't do this first because their telephone Tech people have no clue about anything.

Anyone with Charter cable and this box able to get into the settings menu?

I can but I am in CT and they may configure their boxes differently here.

Kal

Originally posted by Resist
Anyone with Charter cable and this box able to get into the settings menu?

I'm with charter out of Pepperell/Worcester Ma (they feed 2 towns here in Southern NH).

as was previously mentioned,
there are some settings by simply pressing the remote MENU key 1 or 2 times
(different set of menus for each)

ALSO:
To change the screen type (quoted from the 3250HD user guide)
1)turn on the tv
2)turn off the 3250
3)press the INFO and GUIDE buttons on the front of the 3250 simultaneously
4) Follow the easy instructions on the TV screen
5)Press the CBL and POWER keys on the remote and the 3250HD will turn on

(the above needs to have the component cables connected and used)

--
hope this is what you were looking for...

I finally was able to get to the menu settings on the box. I enabled all the resolutions for a wide screen TV. Now things are great. I wonder if power outages changed the boxes previous settings because I seem to recall the HD stations not chopping off the sides of the picture before. How strange but, things are back to normal now. Thanks for the help!

So, is it better to allow all the resolutions on the STB and do a passthrough to let the TV do all the upconversions or allow only some select ones. My TV (Panny 50LC13) allows 720p and 1080i so I'm wondering if I should let the 720p/1080i signals be sent straight to the TV or have the STB for instance convert all HD signals to 720p using upconvert-2 and have the TV display a 720p signal.

MisterX:

IMO, it's generally best to let your display deal with the conversion, rather than an STB. I would pass through 1080i, 720p, and 480i and let your Panny handle it.

Unless you have a Samsung HLN or HLP monitor which has audio/video sync issues. If I pass-through 480i to my Sammy HLN, there are sync problems on SD channels, most notably ABC; they go away if I use upconvert 1 which puts out 480p. Also, using upconvert for the most part does away with the lag when changing stations between SD and HD, and between a 720p and 1080i signal.

You can also "fix" your picture format at any resolution, but you will get the bars on either HD or SD, depending on what the resolution is. For example, if you fix HD at 720p or 1080i, then your SD channels will have the bars unless you stretch the picture. If you fix your SD channels at 480i or 480p, then your HD channels will have bars.

Could someone with a 3250HD and firmware 1.56.5.1 or newer check out something for me on their diagnostic pages? I'm trying to make use of the 1394 interface on the box, but my PC isn't "seeing" the 3250. On page 19 of the diagnostic pages, most of the entries on mine are showing "unavailable". Is this normal, or an indication of a problem? Also, on page 14 my box is showing a "Software Anomalies" that says:

"Warning! 960101.00:00 [SARA Main] @ba1394.c:536 (i1394_Get returned 0x4401)".

Does anyone know what that 0x4401 code means?

My provider is Cox and they have been far less than helpful.

TIA,

Craig

My STB has a line that says "firebus". Others who don't have the firewire enabled, don't have that line. If you don't, you need to ask the cable co. for a box with the firewire enabled. They had to give me a second box because the first one was not programmed. They could not program it over the cable.

When I change my picture format setting to Pass Through it works fine until I turn off the box. When I turn it back on it changes back to Fixed. I can't figure out how to make it save. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?

I've observed the same behavior, and have not seen a solution, other that switching back to passthru manually.

I have had the same issue with settings. And it even appeared to be just select settings (yet the most important ones). I have no solution other than to say it only happened for a few days and then started acting normal again. Lets hope it's only a temporary issue for you also.

Pass Through mode gets reset to default fix mode is a known issue. It's not that you didn't save the settings. It is because somehow the STB was told to reset everything back to default. It usually happens overnight. No body knows exactly what causes it. Speculations are your local Cable Co. running tests or try to update firmware at night. There is no solution so far.

On the other positive note: I noticed my firmware was updated to 1.56.5.1 and I decided to try DVI port again. It works!! You can switch TV inputs or turn it off. The STB will re-negotiate HDCP quickly to give you DVI picture back. Occasionally you will see HDCP alert message but that will quickly disappear within a second. Finally, the DVI port on this STB is usable now.

Anyone connecting a DVR through their 3250? If so, were you able to use S-Video output on the 3250?

I got the composite out of the 3250 to my Replay but I would rather use the s-video though

Originally posted by kaczmarczyk
Anyone connecting a DVR through their 3250? If so, were you able to use S-Video output on the 3250?

I got the composite out of the 3250 to my Replay but I would rather use the s-video though

Yes, the S-video is always on, always SD. Even with the firewire working it still outputs in S in SD.

I use the S output to record on a Tivo DVR, also to use the PIP while watching firewire to use the Tivo's program guide which the firewire isn't getting through.

Hum, I can't get my s-video to work right now on the 3250. I might just leave it hooked up to my replay via composite cables at this point.

Another note, I forgot if I read it in this forum or no, but are people experiencing a white flicker line on some of their channels? If so, is there a way to correct it? I have all the video types selected in the advanced wizard and I have enabled pass through as well.

Thanks for everyone's continued help!

Originally posted by kaczmarczyk
Hum, I can't get my s-video to work right now on the 3250. ....

Thanks for everyone's continued help!

Apologies for stating the obvious, but your box may need to be replaced. If you remove all other video outputs and connect the S-video to your moniter and again with a second S-cable and it still does not work and your monitor's other S-video sources DO work then it would implicate your 3250 box.

Composite is working and the armoire is back in place so I may just leave it. It's a pain in th butt to get to all the wires. I got the Replay working on another input, all my HD channels in my replay guide (thus I can record them from a HD channel while watching it in HD) and the PQ of the HD channels are amazing. I think I'll call it a victory and tackle the s-video problem another day!

Proper Software Version
For clarity purposes-the lastest Software version for this box should be the one that ends 5.1? Also, have seen conflicting info on signal level-would assume as -12 to -14 shows up in orange versus white that it is not optimal?

Notwellversed- Yes I beleive the latest (SARA) software is 1.56.5.1, and yes if the signal level is in orange, or worse- red, you may experience dropouts, BUT, its been reported on AVS that the accuracy of those signal levels is not that good. I had orange levels for a while and had no problem. Then one day that went up to white, currently -3 dBmV. I suspect Comcast did some maintenance/upgrades on their system.

--hourglass

Hourglass-Thanks for the clarification-I have Comcast here in Ct and the version is still 4.1
My siganls do appear to be orange/red colors but as you mentioned the performance seems to be okay-Should I be bugging Comcast about a new version software or does that pretty much fall on deak ears?
Thanks

I'm still on 1.56.4.1 as well. I just sent Comcast an email asking when an upgrade can be expected. The problem with 4.1 is firewire incompatibility with my Mits HDTV (even though it DOES work with my Mits DVCR). I'm hoping 1.56.5.1 will fix this (Anyone know?)

--hourglass

Hourglass-
Just curious
Did you ever get a response from Comcast about the 5.1 version. Do you know would an update apply to them nationaly or only the local division?
Thanks

I have a question on the color of the pillar box sidebars when the SA 3250 HD STB is tuned to a SDTV signal but displaying the 4:3 image on an HDTV. Is there a way I can change the color from gray to black?

I apologize if this has already been covered, but I tried searching this thread, reading througn these posts (too many to read them all), and scanning through the SA User Guide but I did not see the answer.

I have two SA 3250 STBs connected to Samsung DLP RP-HDTVs. One is using a DVI connection and the other is using Component connection. The gray bars show up on both sets.

Thanks
Bruce

Bruce,

If you are using Passport, there is no way to change the sidebar color. Not sure about SARA.

The workaround on your Samsung if you are stuck w/ the gray sidebars is to stetch all 4:3 content and then shrink it back to normal on the Samsung using "4:3" mode for SD channels (16:9 you would obviously leave alone in "Wide" mode). There is no noticeable reduction in PQ and the Samsung inserts nice black bars in place of the distracting gray ones.

Bruce,
I believe you can alter the color as follows:
If you hit menu (remote) twice you get into an advanced screen-you can then scroll through to a prompt for sidebar colors-they do not refer to them as colors but rather "Dark, Medium & Light"
which is Black, Grey & Light Grey.

I am not at home now but I am pretty certain this is how I did it with the Sara software.

Hope this is what you were asking!

Notwellversed,
Yes, that is exactly what I was asking. I'll try your suggestion.

EricScott,
I don't know what Passport and SARA are. I am with COMCAST in Alexandria, Virginia.

Thanks for the quick reponses,
Bruce

Been having problems with SA-3250HD also-----since I got my new Sony GWIII-----when turning off TV---box shuts down within minutes.
This little glitch makes it difficult to use TiVo. Okay-----
Let me put it this way.
THIS LITTLE GLITCH CAUSES TIVO TO BE A USELESS PIECE OF CRAP!

Anyway----I got a 'tip' from someone, and ordered it. I'll have it today.
It 'may' or 'may-not' work.....but it's the best option that I can find to at least try:

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_monitor_cables.html#edid

Originally posted by BruceOmega
Notwellversed,
...
EricScott,
I don't know what Passport and SARA are. I am with COMCAST in Alexandria, Virginia.

Thanks for the quick reponses,
Bruce

Passport and SARA are the 2 different software (firmware) that can be used with the SA cable STBs. The SARA software is from SA and the Passport, I believe, is from Pioneer. This is the main software/firmware of the STB and will dictate what features, settings, menus, onscreen displays, etc... that you see. When getting help with the SA boxes it is almost vital to know which software the information is about so appropriate responses (help, hints, tips) can be given.

Someone please make corrections if I'm off a touch on some of this.

Beaker1024, Thank you.

Notwellversed, I tried your suggestion last night on my STB/TV with the Component connections, and it worked like a charm!

Thanks to all,
Bruce

I just changed my 3100HD box for a 3250HD and have read the posts on the subject, but I'm so confused and need help connecting to my HLN467W.

I have the comcast box connected directly to Comp 3 on the TV and and my DVD connected directly to COMP 1 of the TV. I'm also connected to s-video. The audio goes through my home system. This is also the same way I was connected to the 3100 box. I used to watch all my comcast channels using Comp 3 on the TV, both standard and HD. The HD channels would automatically expand to wide mode and the standard would change to the 4:3 mode. I connected the 3100 as I got it from comcast. I didn't know about any settings.

With the 3250 box I have the output set to "FIXED" and while I've run the set up, I haven't a clue what the other settings are or what I selected or what I should have selected. Currently the PQ is not bad and everything seems to work like the 3100 did except the HD doesn't seem to have the WOW factor like before.

QUESTIONS:

What should the 3250 settings be for me, and how do I do it?

What type of DVI cable should I buy, the single D or dual D link cable?

When I get the cable connected to the DVI input of the Sam 467 what should the setting be in order to watch the HD and standard channels?

Thanks to those who posted information on this thread, I have most of it sorted out, but as you can tell not all.

Wes

Reference my previous post, my Explorer 3250HD has the SARA 1.56.4.1 firmware installed.

I switched from the 3100 box in order to use the DVI connection.

Thanks,

Wes

Hey folks,

I have been reading for a while now, but here is my question. How do I get my SA3250HD upgraded to the latest version of the SARA software. I checked it the other day, and I could have sworn that I have 1.52.6.1. I saw the earlier posts talking about the last two numbers, the 4.1 or 5.1, and I have 6.1, and I thought I had a newer version, but then I looked more closely, and it looks like I have a really old version, since it is a 52, not a 56 build. I will double check tonight, but in any case, how do we get it updated to the latest version?

I am having the exact same problem that "Radioboy" is having, re:STB resetting itself every night after I turn off the TV. It does it at random times, sometimes hours after I turn off the tv. When I wake up in the morning, I find the STB off and when I turn it on, it has reset itself and is set to channel 1. Makes TiVo useless.

I have Comcast (Cherry Hill). Drives me crazy.

gperr

Originally posted by gperr
Hey folks,

I have been reading for a while now, but here is my question. How do I get my SA3250HD upgraded to the latest version of the SARA software. SNIP...

I have Comcast (Cherry Hill). Drives me crazy.

gperr

An excellent question. From reading the great info on this Forum I knew my version was as old as yours and called my Sarasota Florida Comcast only to be told "We don't offer firmware, the 3250 box is all we have" I called SA and they couldn't do anything about since they have no control over the local providers of service. I had done all my research and was going to drop Comcast and move to Direct TV. When I called to check how much it would cost to just retain the internet service some very alert Customer Service person asked why and then requested I hold off on dropping Comcast until he could look into it.

It took almost another week to do it but I got mine up to 4.1 and the firewire to my Mits 52525 works just fine thank you. I finally got (and quite by chance!) connected with someone at Comcast that seemed to care. This is probably the best advice your going to get: Keep at it until you find someone at Comcast who cares. The fact that you are certain they could upgrade your firmware if you or your "caring person" can get through to those who have the keyboard to do it will help.

Please keep us posted if you find another way to get it done. I want to get the SA 8300 HD DVR, but am afraid that it will also need a firmware upgrade to get all the features to work. I don't really want to go through all the hassel again.

Hang in there

I'm also serviced by Comcast out of Sarasota Fl. As I posted earlier my firmware version is SARA 1.56.4.1.

I agree about staying on the Comcast's case. Three months ago I asked Comcast when they were coming out with the new cable box which had the DVI connection for HD. The customer rep told me there were not going to offer that box, but rather they were going to wait for the next generation of connection. I happened to buy a cable modem and was turning in the old one last week when I complained about not having the latest cable box with the DVI connection like other providers did the rep asked what DVI was and what the connection looked like. After I explained it to her, she showed me the 3250HD cable box. The next day I turned in my 3100HD for the 3250HD and of course they didn't have any handbook or DVI cable.

Fortunately I chanced upon this thread and hopefully I get answers to my previous posts.

Lesson learned, stay on their case!

Notwellversed- Sorry for my late reply. No I never heard back from Comcast. I still have my SA 3250HD, but last week I swapped out my SA8000 for a SA8000HD DVR, and then put the SA8000HD where I had the SA 3250HD. With the DVR I can record HD, but its firewire ports are inactive (and my guess is they'll stay that way forever) so I still want my SA 3250HD SARA software updated.

I now have the SA 3250HD in another room serving as the STB for a nonHD TV. It doesn't cost me any more than a SD Digital STB since I have CableHD in the house, and as a bonus the nonHD TV gets to view the HD channels due to the 3250HD's downconvert capability. In fact since I was already paying for the SA8000 (SD), this whole swap cost me nothing, and I picked up HD recording as well as being able to view downconverted HD channels in the other room

If I ever get the 3250HD's SARA updated so that it works with my Mits HDTV (65869) I might run firewire back to my Mits HDTV, which still has the Mits DVCR connected to it, and then could record CableHD to the DVCR under Mits Netcommand. The run would require a firewire repeater though. Right now I have to shuttle the DVCR between the two rooms, and can't do timer recordings. I won't move the DVCR to the other room permanently because it works great for OTA HD recording/playback when connected to the Mits HDTV. (There are a couple local HD channels I can't get via cable.)

I also think the current PQ of the SA8000HD is not quite as good as the SA 3250HD, but its slight, and I'm willing to take the hit in order to get the HD DVR capability. This may be temporary since later version ATI drivers for the SA 8000HD are out... Oh gee- I'm waiting for another SARA upgrade!

--hourglass

Found something.
Put box on NON-HD channel before turning off TV.
My box has been on for three straight days.

Frederick H.- Are you saying that with SARA 1.56.4.1 on your SA 3250HD, you can watch HD/SD via FIREWIRE on your Mits!!!!!? If yes, pleeeese check the NetCommand version of your Mits by pressing on the Mits remote: MENU 0170 (hit HOME to clear). Mine is V19 001.04, and I could not get a picture via firewire, even though the box would record to my Mits DVCR and then I could play it back via firewire to the Mits HDTV.

Thanks--

--hourglass

hourglass: --Yes. All the "digital" comcast channels, SD and HD above ch 70 or 100 (I forget which right now) can be viewed via Firewire. I just checked and my Mits is V 26 004.03. Once you select the Firewire device in the device menu it takes 15 secs before you get a picture and a second or two later than that before sound.

a friend of mine just got teh 3250HD, and a DVI-to-HDMI cable. The box wouldnt display anything when connected, he called cox and they said he has to bring in the box and have something activated? any idea what this is about? I am in the fairfax, VA area.

I'm in Fairfax, VA. The 3250HD does have DVI enabled and quite stable with latest firmware. Wait a day or two to let the latest firmware be pushed to the box and you should be fine. There is no need to bring in to the Cox office to activate it unless the box is defective.

thats what I thought, I dont know why my friend is having problems with his. I hope it isnt something with the cable he has

Good thread - but I am new to HDTV and have a few questions that may help me understand.

Why do the SA3250HD cabling setup diagrams show both the component cables as well as the SD video out cables connected to the same tv? Why the need for both?

I am getting a Sony 34xs955 that I will be using the 3250 HD with it. This TV has a HDMI input. Am I better off using DVI or the component connections. I found DVI/HDMI cables in pacific cables for $31.

__________
Gil

After waiting three weeks for my special order 3250 with firewire enabled, it was installed today. The problem is that after connecting the box to my Hitachi 50VX915 via firwire cable, and going to the 1394 input on the TV, the TV tells tells me that no such device is found.

Did TWC give me a box that has the 1394 outputs but that these outputs are not "enabled." Is there any way that I can go into some sort of diagnostic mode to check?

Thanks.

gmcgrath- If you have the SA 3250HD connected by both component and S-Video cables to your HDTV, then you have the option of viewing the SD, and especially the analog channels, using S-Video. Judge for yourself- many prefer the PQ using S-Video for those channels over the component input. Personally, I thought it was about the same for my Mits 65869 HDTV, but when I used S-Video, I was able to use my sets built-in PIP function, and I could record S-Video to either tape or DVD.

--hourglass

Makanmata- To see if firewire is enabled on a SA 3250HD using the SARA operating system (some cable companies use SARA, others use Passport) do the following-

With the TV and 3250 both on, walk up to the 3250HD and press and hold the little SELECT button (in the center of the VOL/CH diamond) until the green light next to the envelope iccon comes on. Then release the SELECT button and press the INFO button momentarilly. Onthe TV you'll see a diagnostic screen. Pick up your remote (for the SA 3250HD) and press the Page UP button to get to Page 19 which is where the 1394 info is.

Press EXIT on the remote to get out.

This is for SARA equipted 3250's, which is what I have.


--hourglass

Originally posted by hourglass
Makanmata- To see if firewire is enabled on a SA 3250HD using the SARA operating system (some cable companies use SARA, others use Passport) do the following-

With the TV and 3250 both on, walk up to the 3250HD and press and hold the little SELECT button (in the center of the VOL/CH diamond) until the green light next to the envelope iccon comes on. Then release the SELECT button and press the INFO button momentarilly. Onthe TV you'll see a diagnostic screen. Pick up your remote (for the SA 3250HD) and press the Page UP button to get to Page 19 which is where the 1394 info is.

Press EXIT on the remote to get out.

This is for SARA equipted 3250's, which is what I have.


--hourglass

Thanks for this, but I have a TWC box with Passport.

Great thread, it's been really helpful!

I also am running a SARA-equiped, Explorer 3250HD with DVI enabled from Charter Communications. My STB is connected to a Samsung TX-P3064W 30" Widescreen HDTV.

The picture quality is definitely better with DVI over component but there are a few big problems for me.

1) I have a handshaking problem when turning off my TV, then turning it back on with DVI. The picture is a fine snowy static (similar to when your cable goes out), but there is sound. Note, if I turn off the STB with the TV on, then turn on the STB again, there is no problem. Obviously leaving my TV on all the time isn't really an option.

I can remedy this only by turning to a station that forces my TV to change resolution (like from 480p to 1080i, or vice-versa). The picture kicks back in if I do this.

2) Using DVI, there is a distinct 'pop' sound from the right channel when I change stations. If I remove the right sterio plug from either the STB or the back of the TV, the sound goes away. No problems with component.

I really cannot afford to not use the DVI port, though. I already have my DVD player on one of my component inputs and my PC/Gamecube on a switcher with component input 2.

I can live with the popping sound, but the handshaking problem is a serious annoyance.

Hi I just got this box yesterday and im on TWC. I have a Sony 32HS420 and im not sure what settings I should use for best possible PQ on all channels. The tv will display 480i 480p and 1080i natively but not 720p natively obviously. I went through the setup and the HD channels are shown in a square box unless I hit settings on the remote and change it to 1080i then its shown right BUT if I go back to an analog station the picture is way out of wack. I hate to have to keep changing this around in order for the picture to be right. How can I fix this?

Can somebody please tell me how to find out if my SA3250 runinng under Passport (TWC) has the 1394 outputs activated.

I cannot get a signal, and want to figure out whether the problem is with my STB, or my TV.

Thanks.

Kurtisl8,

Sounds like you still have the old firmware. Your only choice is wait until your cable co pushes newer firmware. You will need at least version 1.56.5.1 of the firmware to get reliable DVI working.

Another question I have, is there a way to make the colon stop flashing on the front of the unit? The colon for the time readout.

When using DVI on the 3250 can you override the resolution settings that the box and TV automatically set after their handshake?

My 3250 and TV set my menu to 480i and 1080i when I plug in DVI, but my TV supports 720p and I'd like to turn it on.

Thanks,

T.

On some HD channels the image is sqaure and not widescreen (mainly newscasts and such) and if I do a zoom with the TV it cuts off some of the picture. If I do a zoon with the box it changes to 480p when it should be 1080i. How can I fix this.

I just got the 3250HD with Passport software. I'm using Time Warner Cable in New York City. I'm getting nothing out of either digital audio output.

I checked my receiver (Denon AVR 3200) and it is set up properly to receive digital audio. I tested both the coaxial and the optical input with my DVD player.

This is the second cable box in a week that I've had this problem with.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I just found something interesting in my manual for my Denon AVR-3200 Receiver:

Note: This receiver cannot accept or reproduce the digital signals with 96 kHz sampling rate which some DVD discs or players provide.

Any idea what this means, or if this could be why I'm having a problem with my SA Explorer 3250HD Cable Box?

A lot of the older receivers can not handle PCM 96 KHz. However, most PCM sounds are 48k. Only DVD-Audio players output 96K PCM down-sampled signal. 3250 certainly does not output 96k PCM. Did you check your configuration to see if you need to enable digital audio output or your digital audio out is simply not activated yet?

I spoke to a guy at Time Warner Cable, who told me that the digital audio outputs on the box should work, and should be active. I believe that they are active, because this is the second box this week I've tried, and neither work. I doubt I got 2 malfunctioning boxes.

I just can't figure this one out.
My receiver is old, but it worked fine with my previous box: the SA 3100HD.

I wonder if I could bring the 3250 HD to a friend's house and try hooking it up to his receiver and see what happens.

I have a new question about the hd3250 relating to audio output re: the music channels. I have an Hitachi Director Class LCD RP TV connected to the box via a DVI to HDMI cable.

In past situations I used the cable box to play music channels through my receiver, without having to leave the TV on. Now with the HD3250, if I leave the DVI cable connected, and turn the TV off while on a music channel, the box stops communicating, because it does not see an HDCP connection.

Has anyone used Gefen's DVI Detective to fake the box out (believing the TV is on and connected), or another way around this?

I called Scientific Atlanta to see if there is away around this, and they said that it was a bug in the firmware.

Any help would be appreciated.

There is no way to fake HDCP. I do agree that the box should not turn off audio if HDCP handshake failed. However, it is much better than before, i.e. at least it works now:D

Demobuf,

What version of SARA software do you have???? OR are you running Passport. I am having tons of HDCP problems with my box connected to my Sony KDF-50WE655 after I turn off my TV, but leaving the 3250HD on. I am running on SARA 1.52.6.1 (real old- but Comcast won't send a firmware upgrade). I will check out my setup and see if I also loose my digital audio connection through my receiver when I turn off my tv. I will post after I check.

gperr

Sorry for the delay, was out of town. I have version 1.56.5.1 of the SARA. Most current.

Finally got a 3250HDF (TimeWarner Sara software) working with a JVC 30K. Can anyone point me to a quick guide (and gotchas) in using the VCR "Commander" for timed recordings. Here in Memphis, Rad Shack is calling it VCR Programmer (15-1996) and they're on sale for $3.

Demobuf and gperr,
I have the same problem with a 3250HDand Cox cable using the DVI port. Turn off the TV and everything (music and ReplayTV) don't work becausethe HDCP handshake goes down. I also have a 3100HD connected to a Mit 65" HD TV and ReplayTV and music work all thetime - whether or notthe TV is on. I'm convinced it is the HDCP handshake/protocol. Anyone that has info on the DVI Detective and knows if it would solve this problem would be appreciated.

locomo- You don't need to buy anything from Radio Shack. If the VCR Commander feature is activated in your SARA version, your cableco should have given you a IR emmiter that plugs into the 3250HD. Plug it in, then in the 3250 settings menu, enable VCR Commander and select the right code for your JVC. Place the emmiter it in front of your JVC, TURN ON THE JVC, and set the JVC's firewire input to the 3250.

Now when you see a show on the TV grid THAT WILL COME ON IN THE FUTURE, that you want to record just select it and use option "Set VCR Timer for ...." When the time comes, the VCR Commander software will change the channel on the 3250 and send a "REC" command down the IR emmiter. When the show is done (according to the grid!) it will send a STOP command. VCR Commander DOES NOT use control capabilities of firewire (too bad).

If the show you want to record is already on, press the settings button on the 3250 remote and select "begin recording"

I have a Mits 1100 DVCR, rather than the JVC. For all Mits VCR's the VCR Commander software sends a Power-ON/OFF and then REC command. This screws me because the 1100's (but not the other Mits DVCR) power on default input channel is analog rather than firewire. (If I leave the Mits 1100 ON, the Power ON/OFF command will turn it OFF.)

For the JVC's I've read VCR Commander does not send the Power-ON, just REC, so as long as you've left the JVC on and the input set to the correct firewire input, you're all set.

--hourglass

hourglass,
Thanks,
in the meantime its nice to have both AFC playoff games, on tape in HD, for posterity.

To all interested in the results re the 3250HD, and trying to get around the HDCP issues relating to the music channels. I tried a DVI Detective, and it did not work. Back to the drawing board.

For now if you want music without the TV on, you need to disconnect the DVI connection, or use component.

Thank the MPAA for all the help!!!

Need a bit of help here. 3250HD w/SARA 1.56.4.1 on TWC here. I swear I was able to check the copy protection flag status for each channel somewhere in the service menu. I thought it was on the 1392 Information page and that it was called 'CCI' with a 0, 1, or 2 next to it to designate status, but this are now marked 'unavailable' for all channels. Is this what I should be looking at, and if so, any idea why I can't see the status now?

Originally posted by Demobuf
Sorry for the delay, was out of town. I have version 1.56.5.1 of the SARA. Most current.
I just got my HD installed yesterday from WideOpenWest and the Sara on my SA3250 shows a version level of 1.57.7.1 - hopefully that's good.

I'm a relative newbie when it comes to HDTV other then what I've read in these forums over the past week or so. I have a question regarding connections.

Currently the pieces I'm trying to connect are the SA3250, a 51H84 Toshiba HDTV and a DVD player. My goal is to be able record TV programs in digital (not analog) and still be able to use the TV's split screen (PIP) option as well. How can I set up the cable connections to do this? By the way the TV doesn't have a DVI input, so I'm using component cables to connect the SA3250 to the TV.

I have a SA3250HD from Comcast in New London County, CT which has firmware 1.56.4.1, I had requested a Firewire box to get this firmware early. Just looked at the box's info and it hasn't been booted since Oct 31 '04. I'm hoping beyond hope that if I unplug the RF and power completely for a couple hours tonight it'll do a firmware update from my local Comcast.

I'm only hoping for a firmware update because I have still have audio dropouts on only the FoxHD channel in DD 5.1. With the STB set to Audio type of "Digital" the dropouts are bad, frequent and kind of long. With the Audio type set to "Other" the dropouts are a little less frequent and shorter.

I'm hoping newer firmware for the box can handle flawed audio form the channel better. THe 1.56.4.1 version handled a SD Fox channel issue with the video fading out and losing audio until you changed channels much better than the previous firmware.

Here in Southern NJ, looks like Comcast just upgraded my SA 3250HD (SARA)to 1.57.9.1 dated 12/16/04 during the night. I reconnected it to a firewire port on my Mits WS-65869 HDTV, to see if this version fixed my firewire incompatibilty issue between the Mits and the SA3250HD that I had with 1.56.4.1. NO SUCH LUCK!. The Mits again recognizes the 3250HD as a firewire device named "tuner", but if I select "tuner" as the active input on the Mits, I still get no display and no audio, even though the 3250 is set to a digital channel (high def CBS I selected).

On a separate note (not really for this thread), Comcast also just upgraded my SA 8000HD DVR (SARA) as well, to 1.87.11.6 dated 1/10/05, but guess what- Still no active firewire on that unit!

Before anyone asks- Yes my firewire cable is good. I use it to record from the 3250HD to a Mits DVCR.

--hourglass

Hourglass,

I am also in south jersey and I got the same SARA Upgrade on my 3250HD. It still did not fix the incompatability with the 3250HD and my tivo using the DVI port of the 3250HD (see my prior posts in this thread). I was able to fix my problem by removing the DVI-HDMI cable and using a set of component cables. No more incompatabilty and DVI Alerts, or HDCP errors. It still makes me angry that I can't use the all digit input (DVI port), but at least it works.

It now seems as though I have the latest firmware and the 3250HD still does not work right with the DVI port. Sounds like a Scientific Atlanta Problem.

gperr

i work for comcast in south jersey and i get the same problem with my setup. im going to see what i can do in the next few days. ill keep you posted!

What's the remote code for this unit? Couldn't find it on SA's website,

I have a samsung dlp. Using a DVI cable, is it best to have the stb output a 720p signal for all content? or should I use the upconvert-2 setting which will output only 480p and 720p depending on the source? Am i hurting pic quality by converting 1080i into 720p? or is auto-dvi the best setting? thanks

Has anyone had this problem when outputting using DVI? I just tried mine (using Cox, 1.56.5.1 firmware) and at 720p and 1080i the image is crazy, it flickers, has a black bar in the middle, and basically goes beserk. At 480i, it doesn't flicker or anything but splits the image in two.

I am trying to determine if the problem is on the box, or my projector. I am pretty sure its my projector (Infocus 4805) but just wanted to make sure.

Edit: Well, I upgraded the firmware on my projector, but the problem remains. I also changed my HD box, same problem. :-(

Thanks.

i also have audio dropouts as well when switching channels.

Is there any way to increase the brightness on the signal coming out of the 3250HD box?

Now that I have got my HD signal coming out via component cables and at the same time, an S-video connection to my Humax DRT-800 TiVo, which then connects via component cables to my Sony KDF-50WE655, the picture that I get through the tiVo is so dark that it can be difficult to view shows which I have recorded. The blacks are too black, and dark colors are way too dark, even with the TV's video settings to maximum brightness on the TV. Anyone got any suggestions?

When I put on my split screen and have both a direct connection on one side (either direct cable line in to tv -not through STB, or OTA antenna), and a connection through the 3250HD on the other side, it is quite obvious that the picture is much much darker on the signal coming through the STB.

I tried using a regular yellow video cable, instead of the S-Video, but I get the same dark picture. Is there any way to adjust the STB to increase the brightness?????

Thanks

gperr

gperr,

Go to the thread "UMR Does GWIII XBR & WE". There's a post in it that mentions the problem you described and a solution.

gperr,

I have the same problem as you!! Black levels are crushed on the composite and S-Video outputs.


ilovepandesal,

I found the thread you refered to, but there's nothing about a solution in there. In fact, dmarlette's post in that thread (on 02-13-05) simply reaffirms this to be a legitimate problem, and no solution.


Anyone... Help???

Alex

I think this SA3250HD brightness (or lack of) issue also applies to the component output also, at least in the 480I mode. The 1080I output seems to be ok on my Toshiba RP.

If I use the 480I output as the input for my Philips DVDR77 DVD recorder, I have to crank the the (component level adjustment impedance matcher I guess) ll the way up to get acceptable luminesence and contrast levels. The s-video output while dark is viewable.

Alexpc,

I have tried everything, and I can not get my SD signal to be any brighter. Even when I change all the tv settings. So, now I am going to get rid of my 3250HD box and replace it with a Cable Card and also a 2200 Explorer box. I will post here to let you know whether this fixes my crushed black issues.

Why do I need both you ask? Because of the Tivo. No video outputs on my tv to send the signal to the tivo, so I still need a STB to be able to record the digital channels like multiple HBOs etc, with my tivo.

Seems like such a draconian thing to do, have to get rid of the 3250HD box, but this thing is just a world of trouble. I had tons of problems with HD signal when I had it connected with DVI-HDMI cable, then rotten SD signal when I switched to component cables for the HD to solve the first problem. Now rotten SD signal through S-video and composite. Scientific Atlanta should recall these boxes and Comcast should just get better HD boxes.

gperr

.ps next step is to drop Comcast all together and get satellite.

Well that makes two of us! Looks like I'll be going back to my previous model, the 2000HD. It seems there isn't enough "customer outcry" for Scientific Atlanta to pay attention to this problem. It's really sad that a company that is supposed to specialize in digital video products doesn't even understand some of the basic concepts relating to video levels.

Sigh...

Alex

Are you guys saying that you cannot adjust the brightness of your HDTV's when you use the 3250HD's DVI input? Can you adjust the brightness of your HDTV's using the S-Video and component video inputs?

Hi Paul,

I can't comment on the DVI question since I don't use the DVI output.

But as for the "crushed black levels" problem, the issue at heart is not the television, but the 3250HD. Sure I can turn up the brightness on the TV, but that's not a real solution. Why? Well for one thing it would mean I would have to constantly re-adjust the picture settings on my TV depending on whether I'm watching the 3250HD or some other device (like a DVD player). This should not be necessary, as the 3250HD should be calibrated to follow the standard industry specifications for video levels. Another problem is that if you do any kind of recording, you'll be recording these bad video levels. So if I decide to record a DVD from the S-Video output, it'll end up being too dark compared to regular DVDs. Make sense?

Bottom line is, there may be some brillaint hardware engineers and programmers at Scientific Atlanta, but they are in desperate need of a Video 101 course.

Alex

Alex.

I see your problem.

I have been recording with a JVC D-VHS recorder through the 3250HD via firewire. The brightness level of the tapes seemed ok. Could it be that you may have a bad cable box?

Paul

Hi Paul,

I'm not surprised that your recordings are OK. This correlates with what other people have said, that it's only the analog outputs that are wrong. This is not surprising, as I suspected right from the start that the problem is the translation of the digital signal to the analog domain.

I wish there was some way of getting a technical representative from Scientific Atlanta here for some comments...

Alex

Maybe your presence will shower us with some luck, as in my 5 years here, not one of these SA people have announced themselves.....



Originally posted by alexpc
I wish there was some way of getting a technical representative from Scientific Atlanta here for some comments...

Alex

Ditto on the black crush through s-video. I have been frustrated by this for some time. The results I've been getting on my panny recorder are barely watchable. I've tried setting the panny's input black levels to a lighter level but the problem is lack of detail from the 3250hd. A firmware update would hopefully fix this problem.

Folks,

I got rid of my 3250HD box and replaced it with a cable card and ann SA 2000 stb. Still have a few issues with the cable card, but my crushed black problem is much much better with the SA2000. When my tivo records, so long as I choose the best quality (DRT-800 Humax) I can view without crushed blacks. So, it totally was a 3250HD box problem.

Thanks for all the help.

gperr

After fooling around with the DVI on my 3250HD for the last four months, I've finally given up and gone back to component. It's too bad, since the DVI input looked marginally better , but the constant hassle of having to turn the STB and TV on and off when they lost synch, just isn't worth it. I have TWC and the STB has firmware SARA 1.57.7.1, so I don't think that there is any hope that it's just an out of date firmware. The TV is a Panny 50PHD7UY and works flawlessly both with my PC with DVI and my Denon DVD player with DVI, so I don't think that the TV is to blame.

I'll keep checking back here to see if anyone has made any progress on this issue.

Is there any way to reset the box? (ie, resetting it so its just like when you hook it up for the first time)

My Sammy TXP3071WH has an optical out port on it. If I'm using DVI with L/R audio from the STB to the Sammy does the 3250HD convert audio to digital. If so I could use the optical out on the Sammy patched into my JVC receivers optical in port.



Thanks!

holyfir,

I do not think an analog signal can be converted to digital by your tv.

But why not just send the digital audio signal out from your STB directly to your receiver. That's what I was doing, before I dropped the STB for a cable card. 3250 has a digital coax audio out, send that into your receiver, if you have a digital coax in on the receiver. Then you can watch tv with sound from tv or turn tv sound off and turn on receiver for digital programs.

gperr

I have another question. My 3250HD will not hold the UpConvert setting while off and always reverts to "Fixed". Is this a generic problem, or does my particular STB just have a mind of its own? I'm running one of the most recent firmwares, at least of those I've seen posted on this forum.

Originally posted by jabloomf1230
I have another question. My 3250HD will not hold the UpConvert setting while off and always reverts to "Fixed". Is this a generic problem, or does my particular STB just have a mind of its own? I'm running one of the most recent firmwares, at least of those I've seen posted on this forum.

Same with mine. Of course, I use it only on weekends, so it has plenty of time to revert to "fixed."

Kal

My theory is that during the nighttime, the cable company must do something to the STB to scramble its little pea brain. I've never seen it revert to "Fixed" while being off during the day. Other than that, it might be another of the numerous minor bugs in the 3250HD's firmware.

It used to happen all the time with my 3250 box. Now, either the cable co. stop to do what they used to do or the new firmware fixed that issue. All I can say is it is still a myth and no one can explain why it happens that way.

Haven't plowed through all 34 thread pages, but wonder if anyone has measured the 3250's component output resolution using HDNet's Tuesday 8 am Eastern 1080i test patterns.

Got an 8300HD replacement for my 8000HD and 3100HD recently. In my local NYC TWC thread, someone said he thought his 3250 had better images than his new 8300HD, and a few others said their Pioneer HD converters had superior images to the 8300HD.

Using this technique (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4664241#post4664241) I measured 1290 lines maximum horizontal resolution for both the 8300HD and 3100HD converters. The 8000HD only had 890 lines. And a Motorola DCT6208 from a 2nd cable company, RCN, delivered 1335 lines. Outputs vary with cable systems, but some numerical data could help pin things down. -- John

3250HD is much sharper than 3100HD the same way 8300HD sharper than 8000HD. So, if 8300HD has the same resolution as 3100HD, 3250HD will be sharper. I have both 8300HD and 3250HD in house connected to different HDTVs but I don't have HDNet. I use HDMI port on 8300HD. It looks similar to 3250HD to my naked eyes.

Appreciate the comparisons, Foxbat121. Cable system variations seem to factor in, since apparently some 8000HD users weren't/aren't getting the appalling 890 lines I measured with my former 8000HD. Vegggas postulates it's the inability of some systems to provide the right firmware for the ATI video output chip (HD recorders/players forum).

But, as mentioned, my new 8300HD and old 3100HD both delivered 1290 max. My former 3100HD's faint white fog messed up images just slightly but not test pattern resolution that much. In this 1200+ range, things seem fairly subtle. My DCT6208, on a separate cable system, provides 1335 lines max and has the best images. But the 8300HD's 1290 lines versus the 6208's 1335 lines aren't too dramatic with A-Bed motion video. Comparisons with a 9"-CRT 64" RPTV. -- John

John,

Had you ever recorded anything close to the theoretical limit of 1920 lines? I cannot recall you ever posted anything higher than 1300's. This is pretty depressing. We won't miss much on smaller sets, but on >60" sets, we need as many as possible.

Paul


Originally posted by John Mason
Haven't plowed through all 34 thread pages, but wonder if anyone has measured the 3250's component output resolution using HDNet's Tuesday 8 am Eastern 1080i test patterns.

Got an 8300HD replacement for my 8000HD and 3100HD recently. In my local NYC TWC thread, someone said he thought his 3250 had better images than his new 8300HD, and a few others said their Pioneer HD converters had superior images to the 8300HD.

Using this technique (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4664241#post4664241) I measured 1290 lines maximum horizontal resolution for both the 8300HD and 3100HD converters. The 8000HD only had 890 lines. And a Motorola DCT6208 from a 2nd cable company, RCN, delivered 1335 lines. Outputs vary with cable systems, but some numerical data could help pin things down. -- John

Originally posted by Paul Chiu
Had you ever recorded anything close to the theoretical limit of 1920 lines? I cannot recall you ever posted anything higher than 1300's. This is pretty depressing. We won't miss much on smaller sets, but on >60" sets, we need as many as possible.

Agree it's depressing--that's why I keep asking for HDNet test pattern readings from others. 1335 llines, as mentioned, with RCN's cable converter, is the best I've read so far. Gary Merson, reviewing the Toshiba 57" LCoS (May/June '03 Perfect Vision) mentioned reading ~1700 lines using HDNet from D* (1920 with a pattern generator), but D*'s HD-Lite, if 1280X1080 throughout, couldn't deliver that now. Like to find out if NYC's TWC is minimizing HDNet's resolution, HDNet itself (from the satellite downlink), my 8300HD hardware, or the 8300HD firmware driver to the video output chip--supposedly the problem, at least in NYC, with the reduced-resolution 8000HD. -- John

It's a combination of ATI driver settings, driver versions, and overall memory usage that affects total output quality at the STB. The use of multiple hardware vendors uses a chunk of memory typically used for video, and the drivers are also merged together to allow the same generic driver to be used on multiple STB's for memory savings within an OS's software image. A generic driver will not perform as well as a specific driver for a given device.
In my own, unscientific testing between the 3250, 3100, 8000, and 8300, resolutions remained relatively the same across the board. As you also mentioned, the 3100, and for me, the 8000 had a bit of fog that tended to create more of a haze, instead of a reduction in resolution. I used DiscoveryHD's Alien Insect - Preying Mantis as a point of reference in my testing.
INHD has started doing setup test patterns on Saturday mornings, but not resolution screens. The overall base of INHD among cable users is far larger than HDNet, so there may be more testing once screens are available. If we continue to email them, maybe they will add one soon.

vegggas

John,
If you are using the 8300, or the 8000, with rev 1.87 SARA software, one of the diagnostic pages (pg 30) shows the MPEG decoder input/output vertical and horizontal resolutions.

vegggas

Veggas & John Mason,


They do not use SARA here in NYC, only passport. (John, please correct me if this isn't the case with the other STBs with TWC...) I have found that passport, at least via TWC is not as versatile as SARA is with other providers. At least from what I've read so far.

In terms of the PVR boxes like 8300HD John, does it record all 1300 lines? Can it really play back in decent "simulated" 1920x1080 on your Zenith 64" HDTV?

I have still not gone 8300HD as I don't believe it's any better than my D-VHS JVC, although I can only record 701, 703, 721, and 722 so far with my 3250HD and JVC D-VHS VCR combo.

But the copies are impeccable, and plays like a film on the Zenith 64".

Paul



Originally posted by vegggas
John,
If you are using the 8300, or the 8000, with rev 1.87 SARA software, one of the diagnostic pages (pg 30) shows the MPEG decoder input/output vertical and horizontal resolutions.

vegggas

Paul, yes, it's Passport not Sara in NYC, at least for SA boxes. All these boxes with NYC's TWC deliver 1920X1080 HD AFAIK (or 1280X720p). But the resolvable detail (http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2118466#post2118466) with the 1080i format appears limited to 1290 lines maximum horizontal resolution (vertical B&W lines), using HDNet's test pattern, with the 8300HD. If the SA3250 or Pioneer HD converters provided significantly more resolvable detail I'd get one just for watching HD and keep the 8300Hd for recording.

My Philips RPTV displays the recorded 1920X1080i signals, but the 8300HD only outputs a maximum resolvable horizontal detail of ~1290 lines. (Live vs. recorded patterns are identical.) Supposedly, if the 8300HD passed ~1600 lines--and any 1080i signal had that much detail after MPEG decoding--the Philips might resolve that. The 1335 lines from the RCN Cable DCT6208 DVR looks quite crisp, hinting it's the signal/converter limitation of 1335 lines, not the display. -- John

Vegggas,
Thanks for the additional converter resolution tips and the info about the diagnostic page showing format (not resolvable) resolutions. For some reason, NYC's TWC won't provide access to HD channel diagnostic pages and hasn't for some years with earlier converters. -- John

Hey fellows. Just got this box from Charter and I have a setup question. I've gone thru the thread, but need some clarification. I have it hooked up thru component right now and I've ordered a DVI/HDMI cable. The SD channels are of-course coming in 4:3 and the HD in 16:9 (assuming they're broadcast that way). Is there a way to stretch/zoom the SD channels only without affecting the HD channels?

Originally posted by mlabrinos
Hey fellows. Just got this box from Charter and I have a setup question. I've gone thru the thread, but need some clarification. I have it hooked up thru component right now and I've ordered a DVI/HDMI cable. The SD channels are of-course coming in 4:3 and the HD in 16:9 (assuming they're broadcast that way). Is there a way to stretch/zoom the SD channels only without affecting the HD channels?

try hitting the Zoom key on the upper right (I believe) of the remote control

Originally posted by batch
try hitting the Zoom key on the upper right (I believe) of the remote control

Unfortunately, Charter gave me their own remote control that doesn't have some of these functions, that you guys are talking about. I thought there might be a set up screen that I might be able to access once (maybe thru the front panel) that would affect SD channels differently from HD channels for the same component output.

DVI/HDMI cable doesn't work? I got a 3250 box from Charter a couple of weeks ago. I just purcharsed at DVI/HDMI from Better Cables and hooked it up to my Panasonic LCD but I get no picture. Any clues? I would appreciate any help.

Originally posted by mlabrinos
Unfortunately, Charter gave me their own remote control that doesn't have some of these functions, that you guys are talking about. I thought there might be a set up screen that I might be able to access once (maybe thru the front panel) that would affect SD channels differently from HD channels for the same component output.

On the remote Charter supplied to me, the button marked "Enter/Music" and "#" toggles the zoom feature.

Kal

Originally posted by Kal Rubinson
On the remote Charter supplied to me, the button marked "Enter/Music" and "#" toggles the zoom feature.

Kal
On mine, I have the Enter/Music, but no "#" button. The buttons on the number keypad on either side of "0" are "last" and "fav". Are you saying that on yours, you push those two together? I tried pushing the "Enter/Music" together with "fav", which is where the "#" would be, and it didn't work. Also the "Enter/Music" by itself didn't work.

The button has the # on it and the words ENTER/MUSIC above it. It sits to the left of LAST and "0" buttons. My FAV button is somewhere else.

Kal

Originally posted by Kal Rubinson
The button has the # on it and the words ENTER/MUSIC above it. It sits to the left of LAST and "0" buttons. My FAV button is somewhere else.

Kal
Apparently, I have a different remote. Thanks anyway.

What is the latest version of the SARA firmware for the SA 3250HD? It looks like I have 1.57.9.1 - is there anything later? I see references to 1.85 versions, but is that a version that's only available on 8000 series boxes?

Originally posted by dconner
What is the latest version of the SARA firmware for the SA 3250HD? It looks like I have 1.57.9.1 - is there anything later?
I'm not sure but you guys are sure lucky. My local TWC co. hasn't issued a single update, we're STILL on 1.50.18.45! No Pass-Through option yet. It's ridiculous!
:mad:

Hi everyone! New to the forum and luckliy I stumbled upon this website.

A little background:

Have a new Phillips 30 wide screen model 30PF9946D.
Time Warner cable with a SA 3250 HD box in Minneapolis
Connected tru component cables from box to tv

My porblem is and TW and Phillips dont know what it is, is when there is a scene on TV that has a bright flash of some sort, the tv goes black for a split second (as if it lost its signal), then comes back on.

This happens while watching HD and regular channels but not while watching DVDs so this will point the finger to TW and the box.

Anyone else have something similar? Would this be something in the settings that may be "confusing" the TV signal from the box?

Thanks for your responses (and any help would be appreciated as TW and Phillips have been no help at all).

~darch

the passthrough mode works perfectly with my cs2 2/sdi video processor...thecolors have come to life and the crt barco does an exellent job with the colors, i am alo able to use the zoom1 and zoom 2 options perfectly on analog and hdtv channel...although in hdtv i have to strech the image, i also tried the same trick with my infocus x1 and it also worked good.,..

that has been my experiance...i am using the sa8300hd, but since i have a good amd64 htpc (with lots of hd space!) i m thinking of using the sa3250hd to use the firewire to capture with!
does anyone know if the ffirewire port works on these boxes
right now i m using compoant input to the cs2 and then from there cga to the barco and the x1..although the x1 was used once..it is aminly there for computer webbroiwsing or game playing with teh xbox and nintendo and so forth!

Anyhow

Martin out

DVI/HDMI cable doesn't work? I got a 3250 box from Charter a couple of weeks ago. I just purcharsed at DVI/HDMI from Better Cables and hooked it up to my Panasonic LCD but I get no picture. Any clues? I would appreciate any help.


hdmi to dvi works perfectly on my sa8300hd to the cs2 to the 42 inhc plasma that i had borrowed once...but eversince that i use the componenet since i got a barco crt now..hense no hdcp encyption...fromw hat i understand there has to be handshaking taking place on the two machines..or three in my case with the cs2 vid processor...and it has to be able to keep that EDID hadshaking thingies going! thats why you diddnt get any picture.,.,is you tv/device hdcp compliant??? did you switch resolutions on the stb/dvr that you used? the sa3250hd ..correct?
if you didndt it is not gonna do it by itself!!!

Anyhow
hope this helped

Martin

Hey guys. I'm having another problem with the 3250, that I need help on. I have it hooked up to a Panny LCD Panel with HDMI. I got a DVI/HDMI cable a while back, but when I turn the TV on and then the 3250 and the TV doesn't detect a signal at first, although I can see the program guide. If I flip the 3250 on and off the TV detects it. It's very annoying to have to do that every time. Any suggestions. This doesn't happen with component cables.

By the way, this is really a continuation of the problem I posted originally. It's just that I found that flipping the box on and off, locks in the signal.

I have 2 issues with my 3250HD.

(1) I get a momentary DVI ALERT when I select DVI on my set, or when I turn the 3250 on when the set is on DVI. Is there a fix for this?

The set works fine with DVI and the optical output.

(2) Two of the HD channels don't lock. The signal level is around 0, and the S/N is around 30. Any answers?

It's a pain getting through to the cableco.

I have TWC and the 3250HD and I do not remember having that happened.

Whenever I get pauses or freezes, I unplug the cable box and let it cool for 5 minutes. Works everytime for me...

Paul

I have 2 issues with my 3250HD.

(1) I get a momentary DVI ALERT when I select DVI on my set, or when I turn the 3250 on when the set is on DVI. Is there a fix for this?

The set works fine with DVI and the optical output.

(2) Two of the HD channels don't lock. The signal level is around 0, and the S/N is around 30. Any answers?

It's a pain getting through to the cableco.

The 3250HD is mediocre compared to the 8300HD. 3250HD DVI video quality on standard definition channels is poor. With 8300HD I get good video quality on analog, digital and HD channels over the DVI connection. I have the 8300HD and my HTPC connected to a Zektor DVI switch box and never have any DVI connection problems. Suggest you change to a 8300HD.

The 3250HD is mediocre compared to the 8300HD. 3250HD DVI video quality on standard definition channels is poor. With 8300HD I get good video quality on analog, digital and HD channels over the DVI connection. I have the 8300HD and my HTPC connected to a Zektor DVI switch box and never have any DVI connection problems. Suggest you change to a 8300HD.

I have no problems with the video quality. With the SA3250HD, the video output for SD using DVI is considerably better than with component or with the cable connected to S-Video or directly into the TV set. I used the advanced wizard setting and it went along without any problems.

You probably don't see the DVI Alert message because you're using the Zektor DVI box as your interface or your cableco has a different software version.

I really don't want a PVR -- so the 8300 is of no use to me.

Hello to all. I am a new user of this Cable Box S/A 3250HD. The picture looks fantastic, but I am havig audio problems. On channels that are outputting DD2.0 I get popping noises in the rear channels and on various channels up front. On DD5.1 Channels I get random audio drop outs. I am using the Optical Output on the STB.

My processor is a older B&K.

I know that the cable is fine because it is the same Audio Cable that I have been using with my TV since January.

Anyone with get the same problem fixed? I only saw a couple of posts about this problem and not really any resolutions other than Firmware fixes.

Thanks,

Charlie

Found out that there is an incompatibility with my processor (Reference 10) and the SA3250HD. There is not a specific fix for my older processor. If I upgrade to the newest processing capability ($1k) it will work. Anyone with a Reference 10,20 or 30 will be in this same boat (I think).

Good Luck

DVI/HDMI cable doesn't work? I got a 3250 box from Charter a couple of weeks ago. I just purcharsed at DVI/HDMI from Better Cables and hooked it up to my Panasonic LCD but I get no picture. Any clues? I would appreciate any help.


The DVI port is not active in your area yet. You just need to wait.


Everyone else who has INHD and INHD2, turn to INHD at 7am on Saturday mornings, with the program called "INHD Tune-Up" and see if this helps anyone out.

The DVI port is not active in your area yet. You just need to wait.


Everyone else who has INHD and INHD2, turn to INHD at 7am on Saturday mornings, with the program called "INHD Tune-Up" and see if this helps anyone out.

Mike,

Is there a specific software version that should be there for DVI? My SA3250HD is at 1.52.11.2

I get a momentary error "DVI ALERT. Your set does not support HDCP" -- use the component connections. However, the DVI connection does work -- and it's better than component.

I want to get rid of the DVI ALERT message.

Does anybody know to manually ACTIVATE the DVI port on the 3250-hd box? I had comcast tech out a few days ago and he did not know anything about DVI. Wowwwww! And he gets paid. I know how to go into diag and it clearly says DVI/HDMI is not enabled. What a pain.

Gman

Does anybody know to manually ACTIVATE the DVI port on the 3250-hd box? I had comcast tech out a few days ago and he did not know anything about DVI. Wowwwww! And he gets paid. I know how to go into diag and it clearly says DVI/HDMI is not enabled. What a pain.

Gman

I'm in Arlington, VA - who is your cable provider. In Arlington, Comcast will provide the SA3250 w/ DVI enabled.

Does anybody know to manually ACTIVATE the DVI port on the 3250-hd box? I had comcast tech out a few days ago and he did not know anything about DVI. Wowwwww! And he gets paid. I know how to go into diag and it clearly says DVI/HDMI is not enabled. What a pain.

Gman

The procedure is in the 3250HD User's Guide and the Set-Up wizard. If it didn't come with your unit, then here is the wizard as a PDF file.

BTW, I get the "DVI Alert -- Your HDTV does not support HDCP. Please use the YPbPr component connection to watch TV"

However the message disappears after 2-3 seconds, and it WORKS. I suspect it may be the software version that my cableco uses -- 1.52.11.2.

When I called about it, they didn't know what I was talking about.

I'm in Arlington, VA - who is your cable provider. In Arlington, Comcast will provide the SA3250 w/ DVI enabled.
Zebra,

Yes, I'm in Arlington too. Like I was saying before I have diagnostics loaded and it "clearly" states that DVI is Not enabled. I even went by the comcast store to inquire about getting a 3250 box with DVI activated. At the Arlington store, they do not have a way to test if the DVI port is active or not. My only hope was that one you guys knew a workaround. I guess I have to until Monday and go by the Alexandria location and get it activated there. I was really looking forward to watching NFL/NASCAR with my DVI.

p.s. Viewing DVI activation
If you press and hold the "Enter" button on your cable box for about 5 seconds the MailBox will flash, press the "Info" button, page down to page 20 and you will see the settings for DVI/HDMI, Component,...etc. For DVI mine says NO on Enabled. Therefore no DVI for me.

Zebra,

Yes, I'm in Arlington too. Like I was saying before I have diagnostics loaded and it "clearly" states that DVI is Not enabled. I even went by the comcast store to inquire about getting a 3250 box with DVI activated. At the Arlington store, they do not have a way to test if the DVI port is active or not. My only hope was that one you guys knew a workaround. I guess I have to until Monday and go by the Alexandria location and get it activated there. I was really looking forward to watching NFL/NASCAR with my DVI.

p.s. Viewing DVI activation
If you press and hold the "Enter" button on your cable box for about 5 seconds the MailBox will flash, press the "Info" button, page down to page 20 and you will see the settings for DVI/HDMI, Component,...etc. For DVI mine says NO on Enabled. Therefore no DVI for me.

Yes that's right -- YOU have to activate it using the set-up wizard. Then it will say ACTIVATED.

I must be missing something. I'm using the Explorer HDTV Setup Wizard and I just do not get dvi activated.

My equipment:
Infocus 4805
M1-DVI Cable

I have no other cables plugged into my Cable Box. My pj says searching.... when I activate the wizard. The only way for me to verify that dvi is not activated is to plug the cable box into my TV and see the Wizard that way. My tv does not have a dvi input.

Got any other ideas.

Thanks

I must be missing something. I'm using the Explorer HDTV Setup Wizard and I just do not get dvi activated.

My equipment:
Infocus 4805
M1-DVI Cable

I have no other cables plugged into my Cable Box. My pj says searching.... when I activate the wizard. The only way for me to verify that dvi is not activated is to plug the cable box into my TV and see the Wizard that way. My tv does not have a dvi input.

Got any other ideas.

Thanks

Your TV needs a DVI input -- I have the DVI output of the SA3250HD connected to the DVI-DTV input of my plasma. I also have the optical output connected to the optical input on the plasma. The connector on my TV is a DVI-I (F) -- the SA3250HD has a DVI-D (F) connector, so I bought a DVI-D (M) to DVI-D (M) cable.

DVI is slightly better than component -- your working digital all the way. However, if your set doesn't have DVI, then you'll have to stay with component.

BTW -- what software version does your 3250HD have?

I'm not really trying to connect to my tv and dvi. My main goal is to connect HDTV to my PJ through DVI. My software is 1.57.9.1.

I have no trouble with Component.

For kicks, I went through the setup again just to verify everything and again I come up short.

I'm not really trying to connect to my tv and dvi. My main goal is to connect HDTV to my PJ through DVI. My software is 1.57.9.1.

I have no trouble with Component.

For kicks, I went through the setup again just to verify everything and again I come up short.

The software version supports DVI. The PJ may not have the proper handshake with the 3250 which is why it won't work.

What type of DVI connector does the PJ have? Look at these:
http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_Digital_Visual_Interface_DVI_Bus.html

It is M1-DA. Infocus, some Dells and Toshibas use this type of dvi cable. By the way, I disconnected my M1-DVI cable used a regular dvi to dvi cable. I still get the same results. I still go back to my original theory - that since the diagnostics says dvi is not Enabled I'm not going to get dvi until then.

However, I would like to ask how does Comcast enable the DVI port? Do they load software or do they go through the HDTV setup wizard?

Thanks

DVI authorization is based on the cable co, and not anything manually done to your STB. The cable co has to have HDCP protection flags in place before allowing the DVI connection video outputs to be active.
I have diagnostics loaded and it "clearly" states that DVI is Not enabled. This is misleading. The information page you are looking at is for COPY PROTECTION. The information you are reading says that there is no DVI/HDMI copy protection enabled. This will always say no when there is no DVI/HDMI handshake connection established. Once a valid handshake occurs between the two devices, copy protection will be enabled on that port. By default, without a valid handshake, there is no video output on the digital ports.

There is also an imposed functional 4 meter limit with DVI cables made from copper wire. Anything beyond that is not guarnateed to be able to pass the handshake signals back and forth fast enough to allow a valid connection. At lengths longer than that, it is better to go with component cables anyway.
Since I mentioned component cables, there is very little difference between those and the DVI connections, except that over DVI, HDCP is enforced and handshaking can drop out when the STB and TV are not powered up in the correct sequence (Display first, then STB).

vegggas

Vegggas,

Seems you know what you are talking about and you have been following my threads. I'm not even getting the "Auto DVI" option no matter if I use dvi to dvi or m1-dvi cable. What do you think I might be doing wrong or is back to my STB/Cable Co? I have followed the "HDTV Setup Guide" from SA.

Gman

BTW, How do I know if DVI is Activated/Enabled by cable co?

Any of you guys use Comcast/Arlington and a 3250-hd STB and Infocus 4805? I'm just having fits getting DVI working through my STB. I would like to know what you had to do to resolve your connection issues. That is if you got dvi working using the m1-dvi cable?

Thanks
Gman

Any of you guys use Comcast/Arlington and a 3250-hd STB and Infocus 4805? I'm just having fits getting DVI working through my STB. I would like to know what you had to do to resolve your connection issues. That is if you got dvi working using the m1-dvi cable?

Thanks
Gman


Sorry, I've got a Sammy DLP. If you still think the box is the problem call the local number for Comcast and ask to speak w/ an HDTV specialist. There are a couple - one of whom set aside a SA3250 at the store on Wilson for me to pick-up that was DVI active. Yes, I did at first get the message that they weren't compliant, but after a few minutes and a couple of power cycles it kicked in in full HDTV.

You might also want to try the Washington DC metro thread on programming and reception issues. Someone there might have your same setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45

Zebras23

Does anybody have firmware greater than 1.57.91? If you have this version does your DVI work and Which cable co are you with?

Thanks

Gman

Does anybody have firmware greater than 1.57.91? If you have this version does your DVI work and Which cable co are you with?

Thanks

Gman

I have 1.52.11.2 and I'm with Rogers. The DVI works.

I believe V1.57.91 will prevent the DVI Alert message I get momentarily.

DVI activation is not a function of Firmware reevision. It is enabled by cable co's, if they have the software in the headend that can assure copy protection measures over digital outputs and HDCP. That said, the display device and cable path must also be HDCP enabled to produce an output.
My DVI port was active in 2003 with much older software and firmware versions. My current and stable version is from December of 2004 and has no problems.

vegggas

DVI activation is not a function of Firmware reevision. It is enabled by cable co's, if they have the software in the headend that can assure copy protection measures over digital outputs and HDCP. That said, the display device and cable path must also be HDCP enabled to produce an output.
My DVI port was active in 2003 with much older software and firmware versions. My current and stable version is from December of 2004 and has no problems.

vegggas

I'm really just trying to educate myself on all this. Scientific Atlanta, the maker of the box told me about the firmware. I know my m1-dvi cable is good, because I connected it to my pc's dvi output. I've been all sorts of things by comcast and I know there left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing. Then maybe the box itself if defective?

Vegggas -- all the links refer to the 8300 which has to worry about copy protection with the DVR. The 3250 doesn't have that issue.

The method the calbecos use to activate the DVI on the 3250 is by software.

Gdemery -- did you try to connect the the 3250HD directly to a DVI HDCP enabled TV?

The links, are just my signature of hot topics that I keep tracking and often tell people to visit - They were never intended for this subject. When the signature used to allow for more content, this thread (started by me) was also in the link, but it fell off once I re-wrote my signature due to slow activity.

Copy protection is in effect for ALL STB's that have digital outputs, not just DVR's for storage. HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Copy Protection. This HAS to be implemented on the digital outputs of STB's to comply with the protection demanded by movie studios and powers that be.

Gdemery, What EXACTLY do you see when you connect a standard DVI-D to DVI-D cable from the STB directly to your Display (no switchers, adapters, and a cable less than 4 meters[12ft])?
Is the signal blank (black, Gray, Blue, etc, means no video passthrough, or video mute on display)?
Does it say your display is not compliant (no valid HDCP handshake)?
Is there a picture of Ed McMahon with a check (working, but not worth it)?
Have you checked the display thread about your display and confirmed others are using this display with this STB?

vegggas

The links, are just my signature of hot topics that I keep tracking and often tell people to visit - They were never intended for this subject. When the signature used to allow for more content, this thread (started by me) was also in the link, but it fell off once I re-wrote my signature due to slow activity.

Copy protection is in effect for ALL STB's that have digital outputs, not just DVR's for storage. HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Copy Protection. This HAS to be implemented on the digital outputs of STB's to comply with the protection demanded by movie studios and powers that be.

Gdemery, What EXACTLY do you see when you connect a standard DVI-D to DVI-D cable from the STB directly to your Display (no switchers, adapters, and a cable less than 4 meters[12ft])?
Is the signal blank (black, Gray, Blue, etc, means no video passthrough, or video mute on display)?
Does it say your display is not compliant (no valid HDCP handshake)?
Is there a picture of Ed McMahon with a check (working, but not worth it)?
Have you checked the display thread about your display and confirmed others are using this display with this STB?

vegggas

Veggas,

A couple of things to note.

First I'm continuing to get no picture with my cable. The message is "searching". Secondly, just to confirm if my cable is good I connected my m1-dvi to my pc and I get a picture. So I know it is not the cable.

MY Projector or Input source is the Infocus 4805 and it uses a M1-DA DVI cable on its end. So a dvi to dvi will not work on this projector. That said, I did plug a straight dvi into the STB and went through the menus and I still get nothing for DVI.

I'm not sure how familiar you are with the SA3250, but the setup for "Format" is Fixed, Up-Convert,...Auto DVI. I never get Auot DVI regardless of what I do. I've now gone through 4 boxes. A comcast tech just left my house and he was stumped. I think the next step is to go to INFOCUS and bug them some more.

Thanks for your help.

GMan

Gdemery

I have the 3250 connected to a Panasonic PT500U projector via DVI. When I go thru the initial setup on the 3250, I get the famous TV not HDCP compliant. I then go to the pj's menu and have a choice for EDID (Extended Display Identification Data). The Panny has 2 modes - EDID (for HDTV - HDCP compliance) and EDID2 for connection to a PC. EDID2 just gives me a blue screen, EDID will make the handshake to the 3250.

My problem is whenever I switch the input on the projector to componant (connected to my DVD player) and switch back to DVI, I get the TV not HDCP compliant crap. If I go into my PJ menu and just cycle thru the EDID/EDID2 settings, I get my DVI picture back. Its getting to be a hasssle and may just switch everything back to componant.

I have had the 3250 (from Adelphia) for about 2 weeks now and wish I had kept my Samsung OTA 351. Better HD picture and worked perfectly (just no ESPNHD).

Veggas,
<SNIP>
I'm not sure how familiar you are with the SA3250, but the setup for "Format" is Fixed, Up-Convert,...Auto DVI. I never get Auot DVI regardless of what I do. I've now gone through 4 boxes. A comcast tech just left my house and he was stumped. I think the next step is to go to INFOCUS and bug them some more.

Thanks for your help.

GMan
Read the first post of this thread... :)
First, just having a DVI cable connected will not make the port active. It must have a valid handshake with an HDCP compliant device. Reread my much earlier post when you were first asking about this problem. You are reading the page for copy protection, not activation of the DVI port/per se.
dlb777 has the right idea about their pj - He has to enable the extended data bit so that the PJ can set the resolution on the STB automatically. Since your PJ is not a natively standard ATSC HD resolution (854x480?) it has to send the correct data bits to fool the tuning device into a compatible resolution that it can scale. It is a two way system that needs data from the PJ, and a valid handshake from a display to show on an image.
I would strongly suggest asking around in the PJ forum to other users of this PJ to see what trials they had to go through to get an image.

vegggas

My big question is -- How do I get the DVI Alert message to stop?

My TV is HDCP enabled, and after the alert, it works with the DVI enabled.

The alert pops up momentarily, probably during the handshake when I select DVI-DTV on my set to use the SA3250HD.

It also pops up momentarily when changing channels from the 480P digital channel tiers to the HD 1080i (or 720P) channels.

My big question is -- How do I get the DVI Alert message to stop?

My TV is HDCP enabled, and after the alert, it works with the DVI enabled.

The alert pops up momentarily, probably during the handshake when I select DVI-DTV on my set to use the SA3250HD.

It also pops up momentarily when changing channels from the 480P digital channel tiers to the HD 1080i (or 720P) channels.

It sounds like your cabling is on the edge of the handshake threshold - 4 meter total length and no repeaters.

1) How long is your cabling? (4 meters max length through all components and adapters when using copper cabling)
2) Do you have any adapters in line? (minus .75 meter or more per connection and voltage drop at connector point)
3) Are you using any switches? (minus .75 meter or more per connection and voltage drop at connector point)
4) It sounds like the TV suspends the handshake when changing resolution. This could be timing due to cable length and voltage drop, but probably a TV firmware update would be needed.

vegggas

My big question is -- How do I get the DVI Alert message to stop?

My TV is HDCP enabled, and after the alert, it works with the DVI enabled.

The alert pops up momentarily, probably during the handshake when I select DVI-DTV on my set to use the SA3250HD.

It also pops up momentarily when changing channels from the 480P digital channel tiers to the HD 1080i (or 720P) channels.

Actually it is normal. Some TVs (like the one I have) need a few seconds to initialize DVI port after you select the input. They also need a few seconds to stablized the picuture if you send it a different picture format (like switch from 720p station to 1080i stations etc). During that a few seconds, the TV won't answer HDCP requests from the STB. The STB will poll status or request HDCP handshake every second or so to make sure HDCP works reliably. If TV stops responding to those requests during those transition period, you will see HDCP alert message on screen but 1 or 2 seconds later it will disappear when TV responds. This the nature of the HDCP.

My solution is to use fixed resolution from STB for all my channels so that I won't see HDCP alert when I channel surfing.

It sounds like your cabling is on the edge of the handshake threshold - 4 meter total length and no repeaters.

1) How long is your cabling? (4 meters max length through all components and adapters when using copper cabling) The DVI cable is 2.7 meters (9 ft).
2) Do you have any adapters in line? (minus .75 meter or more per connection and voltage drop at connector point). Which line? -- NONE in the DVI link. I'm using a 2-way distribution amp as the cable input to the SA3250HD.
3) Are you using any switches? (minus .75 meter or more per connection and voltage drop at connector point) NONE -- no switches between the TV and SA3250HD.
4) It sounds like the TV suspends the handshake when changing resolution. This could be timing due to cable length and voltage drop, but probably a TV firmware update would be needed.

vegggas

Thanks for your help.

Actually it is normal. Some TVs (like the one I have) need a few seconds to initialize DVI port after you select the input. They also need a few seconds to stablized the picuture if you send it a different picture format (like switch from 720p station to 1080i stations etc). During that a few seconds, the TV won't answer HDCP requests from the STB. The STB will poll status or request HDCP handshake every second or so to make sure HDCP works reliably. If TV stops responding to those requests during those transition period, you will see HDCP alert message on screen but 1 or 2 seconds later it will disappear when TV responds. This the nature of the HDCP.

My solution is to use fixed resolution from STB for all my channels so that I won't see HDCP alert when I channel surfing.

I'll give it a try later tonight.

Thanks.

First I'm continuing to get no picture with my cable. The message is "searching". Secondly, just to confirm if my cable is good I connected my m1-dvi to my pc and I get a picture. So I know it is not the cable.


Sounds like DVI port is not enabled on your STB. Does your PC video card outputs DVI-D (digital) or DVI-I/A (analog)?


MY Projector or Input source is the Infocus 4805 and it uses a M1-DA DVI cable on its end. So a dvi to dvi will not work on this projector. That said, I did plug a straight dvi into the STB and went through the menus and I still get nothing for DVI.


Like said before, simply plug in a DVI cable won't activate DVI on the STB. You will need a HDCP compliant display device to complete the DVI activation. Your projector does have HDCP compliant DVI port from what I read.


I'm not sure how familiar you are with the SA3250, but the setup for "Format" is Fixed, Up-Convert,...Auto DVI. I never get Auot DVI regardless of what I do. I've now gone through 4 boxes. A comcast tech just left my house and he was stumped.

You will only see Auto DVI through a working DVI connection.

My conclusion is that the DVI port on your STB is not enabled. If it is indeed enabled, once you plug in a DVI cable w/o connect to your display, all you can see from other video output of the box is HDCP alert message.

Sounds like DVI port is not enabled on your STB. Does your PC video card outputs DVI-D (digital) or DVI-I/A (analog)?



Like said before, simply plug in a DVI cable won't activate DVI on the STB. You will need a HDCP compliant display device to complete the DVI activation. Your projector does have HDCP compliant DVI port from what I read.



You will only see Auto DVI through a working DVI connection.

My conclusion is that the DVI port on your STB is not enabled. If it is indeed enabled, once you plug in a DVI cable w/o connect to your display, all you can see from other video output of the box is HDCP alert message.


This is totally my conclusion as well. I did in fact plug a regular dual DVI connection into the STB and still get nothing. As suggested by Vegggas, I've posted other messages on other forums within AVS, specifically my PJ area and noboby in my area has my same setup. They usually have a different cable co or different pj.

I think I'm finally concluding from this forum and other sources that the problem is in the STB.

Gman

Foxbat121,

I tried FIXED, Autoconvert 1, Autoconvert 2 and of course, it was already set for AUTODVI.

FIXED gave me the same results as AUTODVI -- the momentary DVI Alert message.

Autoconvert 1 and 2 worked fine -- no message.

What's the difference?

After reading a lot of this thread and its problems with DVI "activation" my question is, Is the DVI-HDMI connection so much better than Component? I have the SA3250HD, and I think the HD pictures look great with Component hookups. I'm tempted to get DVI-HDMI cables, but after reading all the problems with it, I don't want to ruin a good thing. Is the switch that much better?

P.S. My cable company (Charter) says the DVI output works, but I don't quite trust them.

After reading a lot of this thread and its problems with DVI "activation" my question is, Is the DVI-HDMI connection so much better than Component? I have the SA3250HD, and I think the HD pictures look great with Component hookups. I'm tempted to get DVI-HDMI cables, but after reading all the problems with it, I don't want to ruin a good thing. Is the switch that much better?

P.S. My cable company (Charter) says the DVI output works, but I don't quite trust them.

I wouldn't bother, personally. Actually, I *didn't* bother, ultimately. I started out trying a DVI-HDMI hookup, but ran into problems with how HDCP interacted with my TiVo, and it was a pain in the butt, so I switched to component cables. To my (admittedly untrained) eye, if there was any difference, the component cables actually looked better.

After reading a lot of this thread and its problems with DVI "activation" my question is, Is the DVI-HDMI connection so much better than Component? I have the SA3250HD, and I think the HD pictures look great with Component hookups. I'm tempted to get DVI-HDMI cables, but after reading all the problems with it, I don't want to ruin a good thing. Is the switch that much better?

P.S. My cable company (Charter) says the DVI output works, but I don't quite trust them.

I've setup my TV using DVE, and all of my inputs can be calibrated separately. The best input is OTA, followed by DVI, followed by component.

The DVI message I get is only momentary, and then disappears. I spoke to a techie at my cableco and he said I'm lucky. Some people report that it doesn't work, and some also report no response using the DVI/HDMI conversion cables. It has to do with the handshake between the 3250HD and the HDCP enabled TV.

He also said that the software version they use (1.52.11.2) will probably be upated later in the year and that should alleviate the issue.

I found the alert doesn't always appear when I select the DVI input first, then turn on the 3250HD.

I thought I saw somewhere in the manual, that it said that if the DVI output is activated, the component and s-video outputs no longer work at the same time.

However I tried to find it again and couldn't.

Is this true, or can the component and S-Video still work on the non-HD channels with DVI activated.

No, I never had a problem with using the outputs at the same time. The only wrinkle I ran into is that if my TV was turned off, I'd get HDCP errors and no signal from S-Video and Component feeds in addition to the DVI feed.

After wrestling with TWC in San Antonio, I have finally procured a 3250HD with 2 1394 ports after 3 Service center visits, 5 boxes, countless customer service calls, and a filed FCC complaint.

Now the 1394 ports are not active. Speaking to a TWC tech, I was told that "the ports may be there but they aren't actually wired to the box". Which seemed COMPLETELY stupid to me. I ended up convincing him to put a request in to engineering to upgrade my box, which I hope I will hear back on soon.

My question is - is this possibly true, however silly it sounds? Is there the possibility that they CAN'T activate the ports? I ran through the diagnostics screens and the 1394 info is all "Unavailable" and the copy protection screen says it is "disabled" (not "none"). No activity across the line according to my PC.

SARA version is 1.57.9.1

razorbladebidet- Page through the diagnostic screens (on STB hold select until light flashes then press info) to see if you have a software module named "firebus" without it, you're SOL --hourglass

I saw a firebus 2.5.11.1 in the module list

Does that mean it is possible that they can activate it remotely?