No, I never had a problem with using the outputs at the same time. The only wrinkle I ran into is that if my TV was turned off, I'd get HDCP errors and no signal from S-Video and Component feeds in addition to the DVI feed.

With the STB set for DVI enabled, I found that the Video and S-Video ports give a steady DVI ALERT message when the DVI cable is plugged in, but work properly when the DVI cable is unplugged.

Well, I just spoke with a Scientific Atlanta Technical Rep and he said that for all the boxes, none of them have active firewire ports.

With the STB set for DVI enabled, I found that the Video and S-Video ports give a steady DVI ALERT message when the DVI cable is plugged in, but work properly when the DVI cable is unplugged.

That's consistent with (and probably a better description of) what I experienced.

Well, I just spoke with a Scientific Atlanta Technical Rep and he said that for all the boxes, none of them have active firewire ports.


Still working on this with TWC San Antonio. Supposedly I got a box today with active 1394 ports, but no active connection detected from my PC. I see SOME information when I connect the box to my PC on the diagnostics screen. I can see the VividLogic Driver I'm using on the PC but nothing else. All else is unavailable. Anyone else experience this?

Still working on this with TWC San Antonio. Supposedly I got a box today with active 1394 ports, but no active connection detected from my PC. I see SOME information when I connect the box to my PC on the diagnostics screen. I can see the VividLogic Driver I'm using on the PC but nothing else. All else is unavailable. Anyone else experience this?


I can state for a fact that the SA 3250 box that I had (and the replacement I just got yesterday) have FIREWIRE PORTS. And up until about 10 days ago, I was able to record hd streams (ts file) from the firewire ports to my htpc.
Then suddenly, no joy.
TWC brought another sa3250 yesterday. After several hours, the only stream I can get to record to htpc is channel 1 (setup/info screen.)
Someone suggested that TW may have enabled 5c encryption on the firewire ports now.

Note to newbys' Please post your location (city/state) in your profile. It can help with diagnosing problems.

I can state for a fact that the SA 3250 box that I had (and the replacement I just got yesterday) have FIREWIRE PORTS. And up until about 10 days ago, I was able to record hd streams (ts file) from the firewire ports to my htpc.
Then suddenly, no joy.
TWC brought another sa3250 yesterday. After several hours, the only stream I can get to record to htpc is channel 1 (setup/info screen.)
Someone suggested that TW may have enabled 5c encryption on the firewire ports now.

I just bought a Hauppauge WinTV-PVR-150 and hooked the cable directly to my PC and recorded from there. It's not HD, but oh well... I have Windows 2000 anyways, so I told them to forget about it, because apparently it's not going to work, and if they're going to encrypt them , too... what's the point? I'll take SD over nothing!

i've been through this thread regarding my problem specifically and didn't see it mentioned. thought i'd throw it out there...

SA3250HD from TWC w/Passport OS. looks fine w/component, but DVI out via DVI/HDMI adapter cable (came w/DVD player), through HDCP-compliant HDMI 1.1 switch (rx-v2600 receiver), to HDCP-compliant HDMI 1.1 display (z4) is flaky. other HDMI sources through the same switch display beautifully. it does display the image, but only in nearly instantaneous flickers separated by long pauses (10-15 sec?) of black screen.

TWC Raleigh dignostic info is channel 999...611 is unknown. don't see anything in the Passport menus regarding DVI status.

unfortunately it is not possible to directly connect the STB to the display via DVI/HDMI at this time. shortly i will test with another DVI source.

any suggestions?

thx,

dookie

I found that by using the wizard to set up my SA3250HD, the DVI output worked beautifully into my set which has a DVI input. The DVI connection picture appears to be slightly better than component.

The complaints I have are that I get a momentary DVI Alert message which disappears after about 5 seconds. This message appears when first setting my TV to DVI. It doesn't matter which is turned on first (the TV or the STB).

The other problem that occurs, is that the other outputs (S-Video and component) then don't work. The DVI Alert message appears but doesn't disappear on those inputs.

Someone suggested that TW may have enabled 5c encryption on the firewire ports now.

Note to newbys' Please post your location (city/state) in your profile. It can help with diagnosing problems.

I hope that's not true, I have been debating to call TWC Memphis and requesting a firewire box. So what is the alternative method, do I have to get another stb, I really do not like using a dvr as I already have a pvr.

Rthoreau

i can't get the setup wizard to start...

i assume the 'select' button on the STB is in the same place as on the remote (between the 4 directional buttons)? i can hold this forever and the message light never blinks.

also, the bypass light is on...what's that mean?

i appear to get DVI and component simultaneously (DVI disfunctional, but signalling...see previous post).

hmm.

dookie

Yeah... same here. I can't get the diagnostic menu or setup menu to work. There must be a different way to do it now (I saw the TWC installer enter the diagnostic menu).

Just got the 3250HD from Charter in Pasadena (CA), with DVI and optical audio out (via toslink) on the box (both of which I am using).

However, for some reason, I don't get any sound on almost all premium channels when the Audio setting is set to "Dolby Digital." If I switch to "Other," then I will get 2.1 sound on all channels, but no 5.1 sound even on HBO movies that are definitely DD5.1 broadcasts.

Is this just a Charter thing? Or is there something I should be aware of? Wish all my speakers would work when watching HDTV!

Any comments or suggestions much appreciated!!!

Hopefully this hasn't already been discussed. I just jumped into this thread on behalf of my Dad who just got this box from Adelphia yesterday. He's trying to set up the closed captions for his liking, but when he programs the box with his preferences, it only works on one station (hd station 701 if that matters). Anybody had this problem or any thoughts on a solution? Thanks.

Hopefully this hasn't already been discussed. I just jumped into this thread on behalf of my Dad who just got this box from Adelphia yesterday. He's trying to set up the closed captions for his liking, but when he programs the box with his preferences, it only works on one station (hd station 701 if that matters). Anybody had this problem or any thoughts on a solution? Thanks.
That means the other channels are not broadcasting the information that he is looking for. Not all stations and programs have captioning, especially HD stations and even fewer have SAP closed captioning. If you see one station working, then the reciever (STB) is working, but there is nothing there to pick up...

vegggas

Is there a new way to get into the setup wizard? I tried pressing settings twice and pressing the info and guide button at the same time with no luck.

thanks for your help.

Is there a new way to get into the setup wizard? I tried pressing settings twice and pressing the info and guide button at the same time with no luck.

thanks for your help.
It's in the manual for the SA3250HD that came with the STB.
Turn the STB off, press the GUIDE and INFO buttons at the same time, then the info will appear on screen to walk you through it.

It's in the manual for the SA3250HD that came with the STB.
Turn the STB off, press the GUIDE and INFO buttons at the same time, then the info will appear on screen to walk you through it.

I read the manual and tried that, but nothing happens. I have TWC in NY. Is it possible that TWC can lock down the box so that you can't enter the wizard?

Any help is appreciated. thanks.

Don't use the remote!
You must walk up to the STB and do it on the FRONT controls while the STB is powered OFF.

Once in the wizard, then you can use the remote.

vegggas

Don't use the remote!
You must walk up to the STB and do it on the FRONT controls while the STB is powered OFF.

Once in the wizard, then you can use the remote.

vegggas

I did that too! no luck! :(

I read the manual and tried that, but nothing happens. I have TWC in NY. Is it possible that TWC can lock down the box so that you can't enter the wizard?

Any help is appreciated. thanks.
The Setup Wizard is only used in SA3250HD STBs running Scientific Atlanta's SARA operating system.

You are probably running the Pioneer/Aptiv PASSPORT operating system.
Setup controls are very easy to access by selecting SETTINGS and then MORE SETTINGS.
A PASSPORT ECHO (ECHO is for PVR, similiar to PASSPORT) operating manual can be found here:
http://www.pioneerdigital.com/

The Setup Wizard is only used in SA3250HD STBs running Scientific Atlanta's SARA operating system.

You are probably running the Pioneer/Aptiv PASSPORT operating system.
Setup controls are very easy to access by selecting SETTINGS and then MORE SETTINGS.
A PASSPORT ECHO (ECHO is for PVR, similiar to PASSPORT) operating manual can be found here:
http://www.pioneerdigital.com/


You're right Holl_ands. I am running passport. Thanks for clearing things up. :)

So if you have Passport, there is no way to make it pass through?

What I'm basically trying to do is let my TV do all the converting. Thanks.

Hi....I just got the 3250 for the upstairs bedroom. I was just wondering about the entry in the settings menu called "bypassed when off". At first I thought that would allow me to passthrough the normal sd cable feed to the TV when the HD box was off, but nothing happens. I dont get any picture at all when the box is off and the "bypass when off" setting is used. So, exactly what is the purpose of this setting?

There is an optional RF module to be used with bypass function. Most boxes do not have this module and hence bypass has no effect except for an LED inidicator.

I can state for a fact that the SA 3250 box that I had (and the replacement I just got yesterday) have FIREWIRE PORTS. And up until about 10 days ago, I was able to record hd streams (ts file) from the firewire ports to my htpc.
Then suddenly, no joy.
TWC brought another sa3250 yesterday. After several hours, the only stream I can get to record to htpc is channel 1 (setup/info screen.)
Someone suggested that TW may have enabled 5c encryption on the firewire ports now.

Note to newbys' Please post your location (city/state) in your profile. It can help with diagnosing problems.

I ran into the same problem about 2 weeks ago. Everything had been working great for 8 months recording broadcast HD channels from my SA3250HD to my Power Mac, and now I can only record SD channels. TWC says what I want to do is illegal, they don't have to even give me a STB w/FireWire, and I should just rent their DVR. What little official info I've found (FCC ruling, DTLA whitepapers at DTCP.com) seems to suggest otherwise.

As far as TWC activating 5C, would that affect HTPCs recording 5C=0 (copy-freely) HD channels? From what I've read, it seems it shouldn't as those channels aren't asking for any DTCP encryption handshake and should just pass straight through over the FireWire. The fact that for 8 months I could only record SD and broadcast HD channels would seem to support this.

I'm on TWC NYC in NYC, NY.

When ever I have a power outage my SA3250 does not come back on. This prevents my Tivo from recording scheduled programs because the cable box has to manually be turned on. Is there a fix for this? Or is my only option a UPS power backup?

My SA3250's were working great with Firewire up till about the last week of October, at which point everything broke across the board. I didn't have time to deal with it until now since I was mostly out of the country. On the SARA information page I have Mon Oct 31, 2005 - 5:15:09PM EST (0x4366976D) as my date

The version is 1.58.7.1. I'm in Alexandria, VA. My firewire records are all jittery (1-2FPS), across any machine I want to play it on (not a video card slowness issue, same skips in same places). None of the channels have 5C enabled though, so it seems as though something simply changed on me on the cable side. I have mulitple 3250's and all of them broke at the same time. I also went and picked up another 3250HD tonight and still no luck.

Couple of quetions:

1) Does anybody in the Alexandria/Arlington area have anything newer (or anybody at all for that matter)?

2) Did anybody in the area have thier firewire recordings break as well (or is anybody in the area still have thier firewire recordings still working)?

3) I tried getting both the SA8000HD and SA8300HD, but both had no firewire enabled at all. Is this true across the board?

4) On my page 14/21 (SARA Information) it has a number of software anomolies (Invalid Return Length 4 for owner, paramater 37), as well as the Addressed Cfg listed as "Unavailable" in orange - does anybody else see this?

I appreciate in advance any assistance. Thanks!

You're right Holl_ands. I am running passport. Thanks for clearing things up. :)

So if you have Passport, there is no way to make it pass through?

What I'm basically trying to do is let my TV do all the converting. Thanks.
In PASSPORT, under SETTINGS/MORE SETTINGS there is a menu for setting the resolution.
You can enable BOTH 720p and 1080i and it should "pass thru" whichever type comes into the STB.
You might want to try enabling 480i, then 480p or neither (will convert to 720p) to see which looks best.

Be aware that:
1) some HDTV's don't support 720p input
2) your HDTV will probably glitch for several seconds when you change between channels with different resolutions
3) there may or may not be some other unpleasant behaviours.

I simply leave it in the native resolution for my PDP.

My SA3250's were working great with Firewire up till about the last week of October, at which point everything broke across the board. I didn't have time to deal with it until now since I was mostly out of the country. On the SARA information page I have Mon Oct 31, 2005 - 5:15:09PM EST (0x4366976D) as my date

The version is 1.58.7.1. I'm in Alexandria, VA. My firewire records are all jittery (1-2FPS), across any machine I want to play it on (not a video card slowness issue, same skips in same places). None of the channels have 5C enabled though, so it seems as though something simply changed on me on the cable side. I have mulitple 3250's and all of them broke at the same time. I also went and picked up another 3250HD tonight and still no luck.

Couple of quetions:

1) Does anybody in the Alexandria/Arlington area have anything newer (or anybody at all for that matter)?

2) Did anybody in the area have thier firewire recordings break as well (or is anybody in the area still have thier firewire recordings still working)?

3) I tried getting both the SA8000HD and SA8300HD, but both had no firewire enabled at all. Is this true across the board?

4) On my page 14/21 (SARA Information) it has a number of software anomolies (Invalid Return Length 4 for owner, paramater 37), as well as the Addressed Cfg listed as "Unavailable" in orange - does anybody else see this?

I appreciate in advance any assistance. Thanks!

Is it only firewire problem or problem at all outputs? What is the signal strength in SARA information screen.

Is it only firewire problem or problem at all outputs? What is the signal strength in SARA information screen.

It's only 1394 ports that are problematic.

Where do I find the signal strength? The SARA information screen doesn't seem to have that setting (nor do any of the other 20 pages), perhaps it's called something different (or perhaps I'm missing it)?

Thanks again!

It's on first page and 3rd or 4th page. If it is only on 1394, it is probably caused by new firmware and I guess you're using PC to record it. It is not the first time ppl get screwed by this. Cable cos only support D-VHS recording.

It's on first page and 3rd or 4th page. If it is only on 1394, it is probably caused by new firmware and I guess you're using PC to record it. It is not the first time ppl get screwed by this. Cable cos only support D-VHS recording.

Tuner RF is showing at 62 mhz @ 1 dBmV
FDC is at 75 Mhz and -2 dBMV
RDC is at 15.5 Mhz @ 44 dBMV & 688usec (all others at 0/sec avg)


The CPU/Bus is 166/102

Does anyone know how to compare resolutions of the different outputs of this STB vs. cablecard. I currently have cable direct to the tv with QAM tuner, component cables and DVI-HDMI. I normally use the "Auto DVI". I have trried to visually compare the three but it is very difficult. Has anyone done a side by side comparison or know the actual resolutions through each output?

Does anyone know how to compare resolutions of the different outputs of this STB vs. cablecard. I currently have cable direct to the tv with QAM tuner, component cables and DVI-HDMI. I normally use the "Auto DVI". I have trried to visually compare the three but it is very difficult. Has anyone done a side by side comparison or know the actual resolutions through each output?
FYI: Various test patterns are broadcast over Cable, DirecTV and Dishnet:
http://www.hdtvtotal.com/eng_hdtv_gallery_hdtv_test_patterns_a95.html

"HDNET Test Patterns" are broadcast early Tues at 6am EST.
Look at wedge bars for last clear distinct line pattern.
Multiply number on side by 100 for vertical rez and 178 for horizontal rez.
On our TWC-San Diego cable system (as well as D* and E*), HDNET and HDMOVIES
are multiplexed onto the same carrier without any other sharing.
This allows HD.NET to optimally merge the two MPEG2 data streams onto the shared carrier,
so that peak bitrate demand on one channel can be accomodated by "stealing" from the other channel.

InHD "Tune Up" is broadcast early Sat at 7am EST.

Of course, HDNET and inHD require subscription to appropriate encrypted digital channels on cable, D* or E*.
If you do not subscribe to these premium services, perhaps you can locate someone who has a D-VHS recorder
who can come over and wow you with a replay party.....
Cuz if you don't have these premium HD services on cable, you're missing the best that HD can offer.
PS: Component Video on older JVC "30k" is overly soft if you don't have a hi-tech mod kit installed....but it also smooths out video noise....

BTW: DirecTV has gone back and forth between "HD-Lite" resolution of 1280x1080i
and True HD resolution of 1920x1080i, so check for latest status:
http://www.widemovies.com/dfwbitrate.html

=============================================
See fol posts re various resolution measurements:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6538062&#post6538062
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6784220&#post6784220
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6689549&#post6689549

and the fol CableCARD measurements:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5911408&#post5911408
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6677736&#post6677736

The fol. reports HDNET test pattern delivered via CableCARD input to Sony SRDX "seems to resolve the entire pattern":
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6781774&#post6781774
For clarification, he also reports on playing back a 2 year old D-VHS recording of HDNET test pattern obtained via cable (Mediacom),
delivered to SXRD via either Firewire (hence all digital) or DVI/HDMI interface (via LG LST-3410a Firewire to DVI/HDMI conversion).

=====================================================
And fol posts re how resolution on different interfaces can vary quite a lot on the latest Sony SRXD:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6802010#post6802010
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6800579#post6800579

=====================================================
Lastly, if you have the ability to input IEEE-1394/Firewire to your HDTV, either direct
or via above mentioned LST-3410A interface conversion method,
here are some test files in transport stream (*.ts) format:
http://www.w6rz.net/

So I've found a bug with my SA 3250HD box on TWC NYC, Passport 3.3 build 17. I have no idea if it's limited to my box or is more widespread, and I think you need a box with active FireWire to confirm.

The bug: Up until about a month ago I could record some SD and HD channels on my Mac via FireWire. Suddenly, on 12/16/05, that stopped working. The box has been replaced and the new one has the same issue. I learned about the Diagnostic Menu, and that's where I finally noticed this bug. Looking at the FireWire tab, once I change to any channel that doesn't have an "EMI = 4 Copy Freely CCI = 4 Copy Freely" (pretty much everything besides SD/HD broadcast channels is "EMI/CCI = 2 Copy Once"), the box is stuck in that EMI/CCI on any channel unless I hard reboot the 3250HD by unplugging it.

Maybe this will help people save some sanity, as I know I've wasted most of mine with TWC NYC ("your cable box broke it's firewall?").

So I've found a bug with my SA 3250HD box on TWC NYC, Passport 3.3 build 17. I have no idea if it's limited to my box or is more widespread, and I think you need a box with active FireWire to confirm.

The bug: Up until about a month ago I could record some SD and HD channels on my Mac via FireWire. Suddenly, on 12/16/05, that stopped working. The box has been replaced and the new one has the same issue. I learned about the Diagnostic Menu, and that's where I finally noticed this bug. Looking at the FireWire tab, once I change to any channel that doesn't have an "EMI = 4 Copy Freely CCI = 4 Copy Freely" (pretty much everything besides SD/HD broadcast channels is "EMI/CCI = 2 Copy Once"), the box is stuck in that EMI/CCI on any channel unless I hard reboot the 3250HD by unplugging it.

Maybe this will help people save some sanity, as I know I've wasted most of mine with TWC NYC ("your cable box broke it's firewall?").


Mike,

How do you get into the diagnostic mode of the 3250HD box?
Thanks,

Paul

Mike,

How do you get into the diagnostic mode of the 3250HD box?
Thanks,

Paul

This is for SA 3250HD running Passport:
1) Tune to channel 996
2) Hold down, on the STB, "Exit" and "Select" (the center of the "t" on the right-hand side) for a few moments. The LEDs on the box should change from the time to "Diag" and back.
3) Tune to any channel, then press "Exit" on the STB to bring up the Diagnostic Mode screen.
4) Tune to any channel, or press "A" on the remote 3 times, to exit the mode.

Mike,

Thank you. I tried it and it is "copy Freely or 4". As such, my JVC 40K D-VHS cannot record 701 or 703 as it has been able to for the last few years.
I have tried calling Mr Bob Watson's NY office but no resolution has been made.

Any luck on your end?

Paul



This is for SA 3250HD running Passport:
1) Tune to channel 996
2) Hold down, on the STB, "Exit" and "Select" (the center of the "t" on the right-hand side) for a few moments. The LEDs on the box should change from the time to "Diag" and back.
3) Tune to any channel, then press "Exit" on the STB to bring up the Diagnostic Mode screen.
4) Tune to any channel, or press "A" on the remote 3 times, to exit the mode.

Is there a way to make it such that when changing channels it never displays anythign at all onscreen? Just simply changes it without any on screen stuff?

Mike,

Thank you. I tried it and it is "copy Freely or 4". As such, my JVC 40K D-VHS cannot record 701 or 703 as it has been able to for the last few years.
I have tried calling Mr Bob Watson's NY office but no resolution has been made.

Any luck on your end?

Paul

Yup, it only took over a month and calls to the higher higher-ups... It turns out that there's a software update available, Passport 3.3 build 029, that will restore proper FireWire output and eliminate that CCI/EMI bug I noted earlier. It took about 10 minutes for my box to DL and install it. A simple solution I wish the people from foreman on down would have tried (they told me there were no software updates available). Try calling up and asking for someone to send the update to your box as well.

Mike

Does anyone have the SA3250 hooked up to a Toshiba 62hmx94 via ieee1394? Does it work?

Bill

My 3250 works great HD picutre great, SD very good.

The problem is the program guide. When I press the program guide it always comes up in a very poor quality 480 looking display! Again when I exit the guide the picute I get HD and non HD is great.

My set up is 16:9, 1080/720, our via DVI. (ive tried the other ouputs as well, but its the same resutl with the gude!

Any thoughts or others have this problem?

I just recieved my 3250hd box a few days ago and am having trouble getting my series 2 tivo to work properly. Can anyone tell me the correct way to connect my tivo so i can record and watch live tv from it?

Thanx alot guys for any help

I just recieved my 3250hd box a few days ago and am having trouble getting my series 2 tivo to work properly. Can anyone tell me the correct way to connect my tivo so i can record and watch live tv from it?

Thanx alot guys for any help


Sorry I cant help you with the TVO, but can you tell me if your expierence with the guide is the same as mine?

Texas steve,
The graphics overlay chip is 640x480. Everything generated by the STB is at 640x480.

wirebook,
How do you change channels? I use either the guide, or arrow up/down to find the show, then press select when I read something interesting. Without seeing the names of the channels, It would be hard to navigate 1000 channels.

vegggas

Texas steve,
The graphics overlay chip is 640x480. Everything generated by the STB is at 640x480.



That explains why it looks so bad. I was use to DTV and a Samsung with GREAT Grahpics overlay.

Does the Motorola 6200 have the same problem? If not I may change my box.

How do you find out what version you have?

Any one have any other secerets (menus etc) that would be of value?

How do you find out what version you have?

Any one have any other secerets (menus etc) that would be of value?
Look at the start of this thread.

vegggas

A tech from Charter in Alhambra (91803) told I can't use DVI and "All" their boxes in S. Cal didn't have DVI equipped. Can I use the feature?

Thanks,
TP

Use the set-up wizard and see if it works.

Use the set-up wizard and see if it works.

No luck. It's said no hdcp compliance. That blows ;-)

Cheers,

I get that too, but only momentarily, then it works.

I get that too, but only momentarily, then it works.

Can you feed 480i to the HD TV through DVI-HDMI from your box? I need to get a DVI-HDMI cable soon if that works.

Cheers,
TP

I can't accept 480i out of the DVI output. Only 480P, 720P and 1080i. (at least my set doesn't accept 480i on the DVI input). I can get 480i on component.

I have a problem with my SA3250HD as it is controlling the TV, and the TV (Sharp LCD) is simply acting as a monitor. I tried everything with the menus, and still the same story. Whether I choose pass-through, upconvert-1, upconvert-2, or fixed, everything is being displayed at 1080i, mono. I spoke with my cable company who admitted they "lock" their STB to 1080i, and there is no way to change it. I would like my TV to do the scaling instead of the cheap STB, and I would like to regain control of some features (audio and view modes). Anyone has any suggestions?

I have a problem with my SA3250HD as it is controlling the TV, and the TV (Sharp LCD) is simply acting as a monitor. I tried everything with the menus, and still the same story. Whether I choose pass-through, upconvert-1, upconvert-2, or fixed, everything is being displayed at 1080i, mono. I spoke with my cable company who admitted they "lock" their STB to 1080i, and there is no way to change it. I would like my TV to do the scaling instead of the cheap STB, and I would like to regain control of some features (audio and view modes). Anyone has any suggestions?
Have you used the setup wizard that is shown in the Scientic-Atlanta web pages? You start with the unit powered off and push INFO and GUIDE keys on the front panel simultaneously...??

As paulbehnke says -- use the wizard. It lets you choose which of these, or all will be used -- 720p, 1080i, 480p, etc.

Have you used the setup wizard that is shown in the Scientic-Atlanta web pages? You start with the unit powered off and push INFO and GUIDE keys on the front panel simultaneously...??


Is the setup wizard only run when it is connected to an HDTV? I can't seem to get the setup wizard running by holding the INFO and GUIDE keys. I have the 3250HD hooked up to my SD until my New HD Panny comes later in the week. I want to be able to set my box to passthrough, is this not going to be possible? By the way I am on TWC NYC

hpnas -- I suspect that it only works on an HD set. I never tried it on a non-HD set.

Have you used the setup wizard that is shown in the Scientic-Atlanta web pages? You start with the unit powered off and push INFO and GUIDE keys on the front panel simultaneously...??

No I didn't. I am new to HD, having just bought a couple screens. I will look into this. Thanks for the tip.

As paulbehnke says -- use the wizard. It lets you choose which of these, or all will be used -- 720p, 1080i, 480p, etc.

I want to let every signal pass-though and let the TV do the scaling.

No I didn't. I am new to HD, having just bought a couple screens. I will look into this. Thanks for the tip.

I want to let every signal pass-though and let the TV do the scaling.

Be sure to walk up to the box, not the remote, to get to the menu. Once it's up follow the direction. Once it finished, go to settings and select 'pass-through'. There's a down side which is 'lagging' when changing channels from low res to hi def.

Cheers,
TP

I have my Panny hooked up using a DVI/HDMI cable. I can't access the HDTV setup wizard and the option for output resolutions within the SA3250 has disappeared from the settings...hmmm

Are you with TWC in NYC?
If you have no picture at all with dvi/hdmi output then maybe it's the new passport 3.3 build 029 that's doing it. This version disconnected DVI/HDMI for some reason. Only component works for HD and it's not full 1920x1080.

I have been calling TWC since 2 days ago about this DVI problem.
Build 017 was the last one that works with DVI


Paul

Are you with TWC in NYC?
If you have no picture at all with dvi/hdmi output then maybe it's the new passport 3.3 build 029 that's doing it. This version disconnected DVI/HDMI for some reason. Only component works for HD and it's not full 1920x1080.

I have been calling TWC since 2 days ago about this DVI problem.
Build 017 was the last one that works with DVI


Paul

I am with TWC in NYC but I have a picture....your scaring me now! I hope that my box doesn't update itself and I lose my picture since I'm using a DVI/HDMI cable

goto 996 and see the passport version posted on the bottom

I have my Panny hooked up using a DVI/HDMI cable. I can't access the HDTV setup wizard and the option for output resolutions within the SA3250 has disappeared from the settings...hmmm
On digital connections (DVI), the Display device decides the resolution and forces the STB to output a specific resolution. You can only change the resolution manually over component connections.

vegggas

On digital connections (DVI), the Display device decides the resolution and forces the STB to output a specific resolution. You can only change the resolution manually over component connections.

vegggas

Great, thanks

Are you with TWC in NYC?
If you have no picture at all with dvi/hdmi output then maybe it's the new passport 3.3 build 029 that's doing it. This version disconnected DVI/HDMI for some reason. Only component works for HD and it's not full 1920x1080.

I have been calling TWC since 2 days ago about this DVI problem.
Build 017 was the last one that works with DVI


Paul
But doesn't the 029 build fix the firewire problems others have been getting?

But doesn't the 029 build fix the firewire problems others have been getting?

The firewire is active now and can be connected to the JVC D-VHS recorder. The results have video and audio distortion. The firewire is not sending any data to a Windows based PC. Someone told me that the build 029 firewire output works with his MAC, so I don't believe it's a case of 5C protection being turned on. If that were the case, then the MAC should not work either.

What's not working at all is the DVI outputs after the 029 build.


Paul

What's not working at all is the DVI outputs after the 029 build.

Paul

How do I ensure I don't get this update as my plasma is currently hooked via DVI/HDMI

How do I ensure I don't get this update as my plasma is currently hooked via DVI/HDMI

First check to see what build you have by going to channel 996 on your 3250HD box.

You should be able to call Bob Watson's office and have someone revert back to the current cuild version that you have now in the event that they are upgrading everyone. I am not sure if they are or not. I just know what happened in my case.


Paul

Has anyone gotten firewire out on Time Warner 3250HD to work with Samsung DLP HLR series? It will detect the SA box using the lower firewire input on the TV and will intermittently show a picture , but picture comes in and out and is very inconsistent. If anyone has gotten it to work or has any ideas, please let me know.

The firewire is active now and can be connected to the JVC D-VHS recorder. The results have video and audio distortion. The firewire is not sending any data to a Windows based PC. Someone told me that the build 029 firewire output works with his MAC, so I don't believe it's a case of 5C protection being turned on. If that were the case, then the MAC should not work either.

What's not working at all is the DVI outputs after the 029 build.


Paul
It doesn't work for me now with build 017 with my JVC or Mits deck, any HD channels are copy protected and I can only record the non-HD channels and that is only 480i. Both decks give me the same message that the signal is copy-protected and it can only record 480i even on the HD channels which plainly doesn't record any of them right now. A post earlier in this thread states this is what the new 029 build fixes. Are you disputing that?

Has anyone gotten firewire out on Time Warner 3250HD to work with Samsung DLP HLR series? It will detect the SA box using the lower firewire input on the TV and will intermittently show a picture , but picture comes in and out and is very inconsistent. If anyone has gotten it to work or has any ideas, please let me know.
This is something I'm getting myself with my Sony XBR TV as well its not just your set. Hopefully a new build update like the 029 one that is out fixes the firewire problems.

I had issues picking up Discovery HD and TNT HD and so I called TW and perhaps they did something on their end (cable guy also came over and checked signals), but now my FW ports work and I can view pictures through it. I can even turn the unit on and off, but can't control the channels. However it takes longer for the picture to appear.

I had issues picking up Discovery HD and TNT HD and so I called TW and perhaps they did something on their end (cable guy also came over and checked signals), but now my FW ports work and I can view pictures through it. I can even turn the unit on and off, but can't control the channels. However it takes longer for the picture to appear.


ingénue,

To understand this fully, can you please go to channel 996 and tell us what Passport version they set your box to?

Also, what HDTV are you using for the firewire?

Are you perhaps using the firewire with a computer? If so, what kind of computer.

Thanks ingénue

Paul
Forest Hills, NY

i can't tune to channel 996. my box displays ???? when i try to tune to that channel. I have time warner digital cable. TV is Samsung HLR 46''. I have not tried to have a computer access the firewire port.

i can't tune to channel 996. my box displays ???? when i try to tune to that channel. I have time warner digital cable. TV is Samsung HLR 46''. I have not tried to have a computer access the firewire port.

ingénue,

No 996 is interesting. Which box are you using? The 3250HD or 8300HD or something else?

What area are you with TWC? Manhattan, outer boroughs or Westchester?

The fact that 996 does not show you the "set top diagnostics" may mean that you have a yet to be released passport version. That's very interesting.

Thanks for looking for us, ingénue.


Paul
Forest Hills, NY

i have 3250hd. i have time warner austin, tx. i picked this box up from TW ~1.5 weeks ago.

currently i have fw out to tv just to test, but i use component out to tv (i removed components to check it does work with fw). i also have s-video out to my tivo.

i have 3250hd. i have time warner austin, tx. i picked this box up from TW ~1.5 weeks ago.

currently i have fw out to tv just to test, but i use component out to tv (i removed components to check it does work with fw). i also have s-video out to my tivo.


That explains it. You're not in New York. You probably have some other diagnostic channel with the software info.

In the meantime, enjoy your HD shows!

Paul

Now I'm not getting any video outputing via firewire on my box, I guess it's time to call TWC and find out why.

Now I'm not getting any video outputing via firewire on my box, I guess it's time to call TWC and find out why.


Do you have a diagnostic channel like 996 in the NYC system? If so, what is the current operating system?

Does component outputs work? What's the PQ this way? Full 1080i at 1920x1080 or a fraction of. These are all known issues when firewire or DVI were inhibited.

If you're in NYC, I can give you a number to call. Write to my email.


Paul

build 017, PQ is ok through component, maybe a little soft though. I don't use the DVI output.

build 017, PQ is ok through component, maybe a little soft though. I don't use the DVI output.


COmponent outputs off 3250HD has always been "softer" than the DVI or firewire outputs since the beginning, some 3+ years ago.

Most do prefer the "softer" look more than the "cooler temperature" look of both DVI and firewire, but to each his own.


Paul

PS I dropped you the number...

got it thanks I'm on the line now

Updated firewire working but HD recording is still a mess. Expecting a call anytime now from TWC, but don't think I'll get it.

Updated firewire working but HD recording is still a mess. Expecting a call anytime now from TWC, but don't think I'll get it.


What version did they upload into your 3250HD?

Can you turn to 996 and find out.

How are you recording anyway? D-VHS or computer via firewire?

Also, who did you talk to at TWC? How did it go?


Paul

1)build 029 on ch996
2) DVHS and it's a pixelation mess on HD channels
3) Y woman answered and got me the dl went like a charm, when checked HD recording I noticed pixelation and called back, she said someone would call me back to fix it and no one has.
I checked the tape and recorder on SD through firewire and it was fine.

Any help you can give me please?

1)build 029 on ch996
2) DVHS and it's a pixelation mess on HD channels
3) Y woman answered and got me the dl went like a charm, when checked HD recording I noticed pixelation and called back, she said someone would call me back to fix it and no one has.
I checked the tape and recorder on SD through firewire and it was fine.

Any help you can give me please?


Ok (what's your name?)

This sounds like you're in good shape. Ms Y set you up with the Deluxe 029 build.
This will now allow you to record ALL the HD channels, including inHD, HDNET, UniversalHD, EVERYTHING! I tried it with the JVC HM-40000U and it works.

The problem of periodic digital blooming, dynamic range distortion, and other artifacts will be fixed as TWC gets more stuff from the shops of CSCO and others.

They are vamping up with new HD channels like TMC-HD, MAX-HD, and SNY-HD, so quality now suffers.

There is still another build the HD group is working on now that makes the DVI/HDMI operational and hopefully the quality of the 5c protected recordings better.

As you can see, the component output of the JVC D-VHS into your HDTV looks great. This is the information send to the JVC from the firewire 1394 in the first place, so it's not the signal.

To me, it's the copy protection code that is distorting the information once the data is recorded into the D-VHS tape. I really think this should not take that long to correct.

Hang on.

Paul
Forest Hills, NY

i noticed the other day that HD looked different b/w OTA and TW box. Indeed component does look a lot softer than firewire.

does anyone know how to record firewire with a mac running os x?

i noticed the other day that HD looked different b/w OTA and TW box. Indeed component does look a lot softer than firewire.

does anyone know how to record firewire with a mac running os x?
See fol thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=386740

Thanks Paul it all okay now with the 40K with HD, fingers crossed I don't have problems with it like Matt did/does.

Thanks Paul it all okay now with the 40K with HD, fingers crossed I don't have problems with it like Matt did/does.

You're welcome P,

Just to close your files. Can you post who at IT dept contacted you? Ms Y. mentioned that someone was assisting you.

Also, please check and post the final build version that seems to work with the JVC 40K.

I wished that you have a DVI/DHMI enabled TV to check for operations there. Firewire to JVC may work great for you now but firewire to computer is still a concern for a lot of folks here.

Enjoy!

Paul Chiu
Forest Hills, NY

paulchiu_28@yahoo.com

No one contacted me from IT. I just pulled my head out of the sand and connected the FW to my JVC VCR instead on my Mits. AIU the 3250 is still using the build 029. Hope this helps.

Trying to pull more shadow detail, I now have a DVI -->HDMI cable for use with my Philips LCD.

I get pixelation/blocky scenes on all the HD channels when there is any kind of motion/action at all, especially noticeable in dark scenes, but generally annoying overall. Even the station logo (INHD, HDNet for example) gets pixelated. Any tips on how to fix this?

I've tried all combinations of settings with no improvement. My current settings are Auto DVI on the 3250HD box.

Rusted Root on HDNet looks terrible, with a lot of "static" like on a poorly received analog station.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I've seen some bad video issues with Philips display using Digital inputs.
First, Try using component at 1080i (forget passthrough or Auto - leave it fixed at 1080 for now). That should be an improvement over the digital interface (DVI), and for some reason the Philips scale 1080i better than 720P. The DVI interface from the display won't allow you to change that setting, so component allows you to setup and choose your own resolution (1080i).
Second, turn off your sharpness setting (sharp = 0). Their scaler adds a ton of edge enhancement, digital noise and artifacting that is not in the original image.
With those two suggestions, your display should look much better.

vegggas

Thanks for the tips vegggas. My HD channels are at 1080i. I found out that the pixelation is from Adelphia and their overzealous compression.

Sharpness is set at 2 from Avia. Unfortunately, shadow detail has not improved at all with DVI. Any dark scenes/clothing appears as a big black blob. No settings adjustment (BRT, CON, DYN CON, etc) will clear it up. Bummer.

I may try OTA and see if it is Adelphia's fault. Can their compression cause shadow detail loss?

Did you adjust Avia through the HDMI???
Each input is controlled differently, and over HDMI, each resolution is set on screens and scaled differently. Try manually going into the settings while watching the HDMI and change the settings. Shadow detail is a problem with digital connections and scalers, where the full color/shades of gray gamut can't be displayed - component is much better at reproducing the full spectrum.
As for the Philips LCD displays, I have worked with them extensively and noted several problems with their digital inputs. Which display do you have?


vegggas

Does any one get firmware update to SARA v1.58.7.1 and have problems recording to a PC/Mac via 1394?

I just recently got the SA 3250 w/ firmware 1.57.9.1 from TWC-San Antonio.
I ran the diagnostics screen and saw that DVI/HDMI has "no" under enabled on the copy protection screen, but "firewire" says "disabled." I read that DVI needs a handshake to have "yes" under enabled as is my component output is which I currently use. Since DVI doesn't say "disabled" does this mean I can use it?
My HDTV has HDMI/HDCP so I want to get a DVI to HDMI cable to free up my component inputs on my Sony Bravia LCD HDTV. I talked to a TWC agent and they said the DVI port wasn't active, but the Pace 550 HD has an active port or the SA 8300. However, I read the Pace is an older model, and the 8300 is for DVR which we don't subscribe to.

My question is, should I get the DVI to HDMI cable to try it or switch with the Pace 550 with DVI?

Thanks for any help.

Edit: Also, which DVI cable do I need? I was looking at monoprice but am not sure to get DVI-D single link to HDMI, or DVI-D dual link w/ HDMI adapter. Thanks again.

Great thead, a lot of useful information, unfortunately my question isn't answered in here, from what I could find anyway.

Is there any way to skip channels? I know you can block them, but I would much rather skip them all together. HSN, QVC, On Demand previews, etc. When surfing along I would rather not have to see the "blocked" message.

Example: QVC is channel 12. Currently watching channel 11, I press channel up and I want it to go to 13. Is there any way to do this?

Use the up or down arrows until you get to the channel you want, then hit select to change to that channel. Info bar will change as fast as you can press the button, or holding the button for more than three seconds will scroll much faster at about 10 channels per second. If you have blocks of channels you watch, use the favorites to jump to channels.

vegggas

Use the up or down arrows until you get to the channel you want, then hit select to change to that channel. Info bar will change as fast as you can press the button, or holding the button for more than three seconds will scroll much faster at about 10 channels per second. If you have blocks of channels you watch, use the favorites to jump to channels.

vegggas
Yeah, I knew about that, but thanks anyway. I might just have to set up the favorites option.

I've been using the Scientific Atlanta 3250HD cable box with my JVC HD-56FH96 reprojection. I've hooked up the HDTV to the DVI output and I had been watcing HDTV up to now withouth problems. However, two nights ago the TV stopped recognizing the input from the cable box. I'm not sure if it is the TV or the cable box that is the problem. Switching to a new DVI-HDMI cable does not solve the problem and switching to the HDMI Digital input 2 also does not work. Interesting the component output from the cable box does work.

I know the TV's HDMI ports are working because my Oppo DVD player works on both digital inputs. I am suspecting an HDCP handshake problem because the Oppo is not HDCP compliant. However, I don't get a warning message saying that the TV is not HDCP compliant, instead I just get a grey screen. Unfortunately, I don't have another HDCP HDMI output device to test this. Reseting the SA box to 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i does not help, neither do any of the picture settings (fixed, up-convert 1 or 2, or pass-through).

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

ctakim,

I suggest that you swap the box for another one from your cable co. It sounds to me that a component inside the box has failed.

Dana

longstory short i got stuck with the 3250 box today
im with twc queens ny, and ch 996 shows pass 3.3. build 0.17.

ALL my sd channels look like garbage with component AND with my dvi to hdmi cable.

What can i do to fix this problem? losing my tivo today was hard enough due to system failure, and now this! CS said they can come here 7 days... yes NEXT friday to fix the problem.

ALL my sd channels look like garbage with component AND with my dvi to hdmi cable.

What can i do to fix this problem?

I use the S-Video input on my Mits WT46809 set, to view all non-HD channels.


losing my tivo today was hard enough due to system failure

Contact http://www.weaknees.com/?WKGW01_1475&gclid=COajnazzu4UCFS1fDgod9Fn_uQ
for tivo repair.
If it's just the hard drive you can probably fix it your self...

The problem I had with my SA 3250HD cable box transmitting a signal to my JVC HD-56FH96 LCoS rear projection via the HDMI port just started working again after about 1 week of having to use component hook ups. I was about to call the cable company, but thought I should check it once more before callling. This suggests that someting in the signal (HDCP handshake?) was lost for a few days.

Very strange, but back up with my normal hook up.

ctakim

NM, found it in the software...

I am having sound problems with my new 3250hd. I am using the toslink cable to my Pioneer Elite receiver. If I use the setting "other" instead of dolby, the volume goes higher and then lower. If I use the dolby setting, some channels are very loud--especially the weather channel. Does anyone know what setting I should be using to avoid these problems. I called Cox and they said to use "other" and "narrow".

I am going to be receiving a HM-DT100 VCR to operate with a SA3250HD box If the recordings from the cable box, are with dropouts few and far between then I will be satisfied. If they are glitch-free then I will be ecstatic. I hoping for somewhere in between. I'm using the passport version if that helps. Would anybody here post their experience with this combo?

I'm having a problem with my 3250HD sending buzzing audio over the audio jacks. It's REALLY annoying. A very dull, very loud "reverb." I'm using RCA cables to connect the audio to my Panasonic plasma. I've used multiple RCA cables and I get the same result; buzzing through my TV. As far as I remember, it only started doing this tonight.

Is there any way to fix the problem or should I take it back to Comcast?

I'm having a problem with my 3250HD sending buzzing audio over the audio jacks. It's REALLY annoying. A very dull, very loud "reverb." I'm using RCA cables to connect the audio to my Panasonic plasma. I've used multiple RCA cables and I get the same result; buzzing through my TV. As far as I remember, it only started doing this tonight.

Is there any way to fix the problem or should I take it back to Comcast?

Union0015,

Any chance you could check the connection by using another signal source? DVD player, etc? We just discovered something similar here (not involving the 3250HD) and it turned out to be interference that the TV set itself was picking up. Probably poorly shielded audio cables inside the set.

Also, the sudden occurance of the buzz suggests something new in the environment. Any new devices - microwave, wireless phone, baby monitor, etc. - plugged in about the same time?

Good luck.

Dana

Okay I am a bit frustrated at the 3250HD right now. I had the 8300HD and I got it setup perfectly with everything I wanted, but I never used the DVR function so I took it into Cox b/c I did't want to pay the extra $5 a month for something I don't use.

What's up with a seperate DVR fee anyway, how retarded is that?!

Anyway on my HD channels I get the correct resolution and everything, BUT there are black lines at the top and bottom of the page. This was not the case when I had the 8300. On ESPN and other 720p channels there were black bars on the top and the bottom and I know that that was just because of the difference in resolution.

However, on the channels that use 1080i the image filled up the whole screen and there were no annoying black bars on the top and bottom. NOW with the 3250 there are black bars on the top and bottom of even the 1080i channels and frankly it is really annoying me. Please someone help me!!!!

Okay I am a bit frustrated at the 3250HD right now. I had the 8300HD and I got it setup perfectly with everything I wanted, but I never used the DVR function so I took it into Cox b/c I did't want to pay the extra $5 a month for something I don't use.

What's up with a seperate DVR fee anyway, how retarded is that?!

Anyway on my HD channels I get the correct resolution and everything, BUT there are black lines at the top and bottom of the page. This was not the case when I had the 8300. On ESPN and other 720p channels there were black bars on the top and the bottom and I know that that was just because of the difference in resolution.

However, on the channels that use 1080i the image filled up the whole screen and there were no annoying black bars on the top and bottom. NOW with the 3250 there are black bars on the top and bottom of even the 1080i channels and frankly it is really annoying me. Please someone help me!!!!

Okay, well I figured it out. I have the composite connections connected to use when I want to watch regular TV without running the sound through my receiver and just use the TV speakers.

I also have another setting on my remote for HDTV and Sports that uses the component outputs to the TV and the audio runs through the receiver so I can get full surround sound.

Well, the composite output from the cable box on the 3250HD does not support HD resolutions correctly (I was wondering why my HD channels looked like poop). But when I switch the input on my TV to component1 and use the component output from the cable box all is well.

So for everyone who didn't know this here ya go. The composite output from the 3250 does not support HD resolutions correctly. However, the other outputs do support HD content correctly. I tested the DVI output too, but I use the only DVI cable to hook up my laptop to my TV.

The 8300HD box supported all HD resolutions on all of its inputs. I know this is not a problem with my TV because my 42" Westinghouse supports up to 1080p on all its inputs. SO there is my long answer to a very simple solution.

I guess I just wasn't thinking earlier today. Cheers!

here's the setup I have. SA 3250 hd DVI out to TV's HDMI in. Then red/white AUDIO out to tv audio in. pics and sound fine. No component connections are coming out from the 3250. Yet every thime TV is turned on a message pops up (and looks like the same type message you get if you .tune box to a non subscribed channel that says YPrPB output blocked, hit exit to continue. Which I do, it goes away and away I surf. But everytime TV is turned on the message pops up. The HD box is always on. Any ideas?

I have a 3250 HD box thru Charter Cable in So Cal. I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to increase the level of the audio out through the composite cables. The audio level from the optical out and the RF out is fine. When I switch to the composite audio and video the audio level is very low and as a result anything I record is very low. I have the component and optical outs going into the receiver and the composite out going into the DVD/DVR.

Any help would be appreciated.

Mo

OK, I'm stumped with this.

I have connected the 3250 to a Panny ED Plasma (via DVI with a DVI to HDMI converter). When I do the Advanced Setup, I can see it will not support 720P, but does support all other formats.

Now the problem. I want the 3250 to stretch SD and leave HD alone. When it comes out of setup, it uses "fixed" by default. I've tried the various conversion options and cannot get the stretch mode to stick for SD and not HD. If I stretch SD, the dang thing then stretches HD. I was surprised that auto-DVI did not fix this.

My SA8300 doesn't do this, it works fine via HDMI.

I'm sure this was discussed somewhere in this long thread... Once I figure this out, I need to try the same thing on my 50" HD Pioneer Plasma. It's having the exact same problem.

Thanks in advance.

This may be a software issue. From page 1 of this thread:

"Stretch Mode: In SD, it takes the 4x3 screen and stretches it to widescreen. In HD it does the same thing, but if the signal is already in widescreen, it stretches it even further, losing about 15% of the sides."

With some versions of the software you can change the picture size on the fly by pressing the # key on the remote.

Dana

Does any one get firmware update to SARA v1.58.7.1 and have problems recording to a PC/Mac via 1394?

I just got my 3250HD with SARA 1.58.7.1 yesterday. My HTPC does not detect any new hardware when I connect the Firewire/1394 cable. I verified the Firewire port on the HTPC works by plugging my wife's iPod into it, so I'm guessing the problem is with the 3250HD.

If anyone has any advice on getting my HTPC (Windows XP SP2) to detect the 3250HD or info about the problem being the 3250HD's Firewire/1394, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Stormwind,

Do you know for a fact that the Firewire port is enabled on your 3250 HD? It is apparently optional with various cable cos.

Dana

In the list of installed software modules, my firewire enabled (and working!) SARA SA3250HD has one named "firebus". Look to see if you have it. If you don't I would speculate your firewire ports aren't activated yet --hourglass

My recordings via Firewire until they updated my SARA firmware. The version is 1.58.7.1. I'm in Alexandria, VA. My firewire records are all jittery (1-2FPS), across any machine I want to play it on (not a video card slowness issue, same skips in same places). None of the channels have 5C enabled though, so it seems as though something simply changed on me on the cable side. I have mulitple 3250's and all of them broke at the same time.

It detects it just fine, but the recordings are really bad. Does anybody with more information know why this breaks?

My recordings via Firewire until they updated my SARA firmware. The version is 1.58.7.1. I'm in Alexandria, VA. My firewire records are all jittery (1-2FPS), across any machine I want to play it on (not a video card slowness issue, same skips in same places). None of the channels have 5C enabled though, so it seems as though something simply changed on me on the cable side. I have mulitple 3250's and all of them broke at the same time.

It detects it just fine, but the recordings are really bad. Does anybody with more information know why this breaks?

I want to point out one minor thing. Everything died within hours of the below update. It literally worked hours before, and then stopped working (became garbage) afterwards. Yes, I know this was a long time ago - but I've been stuck ever since. :(

Global Cfg: Mon Oct 31, 2005 - 5:15:09PM EST (0x4366976D)
Addressed Cg: Unavailable
OPG Daemon: Filling Cache c:00000006;0201.0232(initial load)
EAS: Total: 0
WAI Default:

Trying to troubleshoot an issue. I have a 3250 in Brooklyn. HD channels a couple times a night "skip" or stutter" for a second. Some of the time, when it happens, the STB seems to Zoom in on the pictures (distorting and dropping the resolution. To fix that I have to change the channel to a channel with a different native resolution, then change back.

I am using DVI out of the 3250 into the HDMI of a KDS-60A2000.

ANyone see this before?


Also, what's a good and bad number for S/N ratio on in the diagnostic menu.

Also, what's a good and bad number for S/N ratio on in the diagnostic menu.
See fol post for range of acceptable levels and S/N ratio:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8358223#post8358223

See fol post for range of acceptable levels and S/N ratio:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8358223#post8358223


Thanks.

TWC system here. Firewire to PC recordings have been broken since March of this year (all captures are heavily pixellated or 0 byte files). Luckily, recording to Mits DVCR or streaming to TV still works, but locally at least one JVC DVCR user says he can't record anything since that time. Firmware is currently SARA 1.58.7.1, but I'm unsure what version it was prior to the problems showing up. Are there any 3250 users out there with a higher firmware revision yet?

Does anyone remember the remote codes for the Vizio? I lost them and can't recall if I used LG codes for the remote that came with the SA3250. Or is the remote dependent upon the cable provider? I have Comcast.

Thanks.

This problem has been identified and the answer posted earlier in this thread. I contacted Scientific Atlanta recently to see if there has been any change. Here's the Q & A.

Q. "I have a Scientific Atlanta 3250HD set-top box provided by SusCom cable
TV, Brunswick, ME. 04011 now owned and operated by Comcast. My problem
is that when I want to listen to the Music Channels and I turn off my
Sony 34" XBR910 CRT HD TV to listen through my home theater system
connected to the SA3250HD via TOSlink, the audio shuts down as well.

"Is this a problem with HDCP using the DVI connection? Any way around it?"

A. from SA.

"Unfortunately, this is a problem related to HDCP. When the TV is turned off
and the connection does not detect an HDCP compliant signal anymore, it turns
that connection off based on HDCP specifications. Hopefully this is something
that there will be a work around for in the future."

For what it's worth, a DirecTV H20 600 HDCP-compliant HD STB continued to provide audio to my receiver when I turned off the TV set when connected through DVI. So, the problem is with SA's implementation of HDCP. I won't hold my breath waiting for a fix at this point.

Dana

I am concerned about the heat generated for the Hitachi 42HDT51 Plasma TV connection box placed in standby mode. It feels very hot to the touch (but not scalding hot.)


I didn't have any heat issues for two years prior to now with the same setup the Hitachi Plasma TV 42HDT51 power switch was completely turned off with the SA 3250HD cable box turned on and my DVR recordings came out fine.

Last week when the SA 3250HD started behaving erratically, losing the HDCP signal that for two years was recognized just fine with the "TV power off", I started to notice that resets (BOOT) was necessary to get back the HDCP signal in sync between the TV and the cable box. The Plasma TV is HDCP compliant version 1.1.

Then, for a few days the HDCP signal was constantly getting lost. After a reset (BOOT) then the SA 3250HD lost the digital channels and HD channels, thus leaving only four analog channels. Then the SA 3250HD power supply failed and wouldn't power on anymore.

I had the TWC Cable company replace the SA 3250HD with a brand new SA 3250HD.

Workaround for the HDCP signal causes a heat issue concern
-----------------------------------------------------------

I did a lot of AVS forum and Internet research to understand the HDCP signal loss problem. Then I came up with a workaround for the Hitachi 42HDT51 Plasma TV to provide a constant HDCP signal to the SA 3250HD cable box.

I currently subscribe to digital cable with 3 premiums including HD channels. I sometimes need to timeshift by using a DVR to record from the digital channels or the premiums.

I leave my Hitachi 42HDT51 Plasma TV turned on but in standby mode to provide a constant HDCP signal required for the DVI=>HDMI cable connection from the SA 3250HD cable box to my Plasma TV. That is my workaround.


HDCP Signal Trouble w/o workaround
----------------------------------

If I don't leave the Plasma TV's connection box on in standby mode then the SA 3250HD cable box automatically resets within 24 hours. I loose the full digital or HD picture feed from the cable box.

After an automatic SA 3250HD reset (BOOT) with the Plasma TV "turned off" I see a grey screen. Then by toggling the cable box power off and on it will display the default power on cable channel, however, channel navigation is disabled. The cable box sends a black transparent picture overlay warning message with white letters that the Plasma TV doesn't have a HDCP connection and that the TV must be hooked up using the component cable connections. (I have hooked up a DVI=>HDMI cable connection with a HDCP version 1.1 compatibile Plasma TV.)

A reset (BOOT) of the SA 3250HD cable box is required with the TV turned on. Then the HDCP signal is recognized and channel navigation works as long as I don't turn off the Plasma Power e.g. leaving it in standby by selecting another input that is turned off (e.g. DVD player.)

I can then timeshift my recordings. They will look normal without the black transparent overlay that comes with the HDCP warning message from the SA 3250HD cable box.

Heat Issue
----------

The issue I have is that the Plasma TV has a separate connection box that gets hot if I leave it on all day in Standby.

Doesn't heat wear out the components in the Plasma TV connection box sooner than if I turn this box off when I am done watching TV?

I am reluctantly considering giving up the fantastic clear HD signal by disconnecting the DVI=>HDMI cable and connecting the component connection cable between the Plasma TV connection box and the SA 3250HD cable box, for the peace of mind of having no heat issues (wear and tear and future repair) by leaving the Plasma TV connection box power switch off instead of standby.

However, I'm not ready to give up the fantastic clear HD signal that the Plasma TV produces. I bought the Plasma TV to admire and enjoy that beautiful picture (not to mention the great expense of owning one.)

------------------------------

Is there a device to hookup between the TV and the cable box that would provide a constant HDCP signal to the SA 3250HD cable box to keep the HDCP in sync? If so, I would be able to leave the Plasma TV connection box powered off while the SA 3250HD cable box would be provided the HDCP signal.

It is just incredible that these workarounds have to be thought of since everything was working fine before replacing the original SA 3250HD cable box that had a power failure after two years.

Does anyone have any recommendations or other solutions above that I didn't think about?

Thank you in advance for all your replies.


------------------
Intuition

Intuition,

One product that might seem to meet your needs - the DVI Detective by Gefen http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1378 - unfortunately doesn't. Because its specs have recently been upgraded, I contacted Gefen. Here's the response posted here http://forum.gefen.com/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=938ଙ

"Our DVI Detectives are for use with Computer sources only.

"It is true that they now support HDTVs with the 256bit EDID support but the unit is not HDCP compatible.

"Jonathan Wu
"Techical Support and Sales
"Gefen Inc.
"6265 Variel Ave.
"Woodland Hills, CA 91367
"Tel. 818.884.6294 x235
"Fax 818.884.3108"

Dana

How can I just stretch the 4:3 channels (SD) without affecting the 16:9 channels (HD)? I don't want to lose a LOT of the picture, so I'm thinking Stretch will work for me, but will it affect 16:9 broadcasts also?

Unfortuantely, you're need to push the lower left "bypass" button when you are on the HDTV channels (701 and up) when you are there. Once you have stretch set, it will apply to all channels.

Paul




How can I just stretch the 4:3 channels (SD) without affecting the 16:9 channels (HD)? I don't want to lose a LOT of the picture, so I'm thinking Stretch will work for me, but will it affect 16:9 broadcasts also?

How can I just stretch the 4:3 channels (SD) without affecting the 16:9 channels (HD)? I don't want to lose a LOT of the picture, so I'm thinking Stretch will work for me, but will it affect 16:9 broadcasts also?

What is your cable company?. I have cox. turn the box off and press info and guide at the same time. It will bring up an HD setup screen. Go through the guide, setup 16x9. then you are able to select the output formats of the box. Choose one of the following:

1: if you choose 1080i, then select either 480p Standard or 480i Standard. Exit the setup menu. Turn the box on and go into the more settings menu and select "Set: Picture Format" and set to upconvert 1.

2: if you choose 720p, then select either 480p Standard or 480i Standard. Exit the setup menu. Turn the box on and go into the more settings menu and select "Set: Picture Format" and set to upconvert 2.

Thanks for the tip. Also, the SD channels have a lot more noise compared to the SA2100. I used to have noise reduction on off, now it's on Medium! Is there something I'm doing wrong? I have sharpness on 50, Clarity on 100, and Reality on 1. Clarity smoothes out the picture, and noise reduction does too, so that's why I upped the Sharpness. I've heard that the 3250HD adds a lot of edge enhancement on it's own, so is the sharpness too high? And will the settings posted above take care of commercials on HD channels that are usually in 4:3? Also, some HD programs are broadcast in 4:3, not widescreen, will it also take care of that? I'll try it and find out.

I'm getting one of these this week because its the only HD tuner that Rogers will let me use :rolleyes: (i dont want a PVR). I want to hook it up using a DVI to HDMI adapter and into my Samsung LN-S3241. Does anyone forsee any issues with this?

Recently I've noticed that the optical audio out on my SA3250HD set top box has sound output even with the box off. I have the optical audio out connected to my surround receiver ( digital audio selected on the sound option on the box) and up until a couple of weeks ago when I turned the box off ( using the remote) the sound would turn off. Now when I turn the box off the sound turns off then back on after a few seconds. The audio output is from the last channel we watched, even though the box is off. Upon turning the STB on the sound changes to the sound for the guide on channel 2 ( I have the box set to turn on to the guide on channel 2). Very odd behavior...and has only been doing this for a couple of weeks. Any else notice this? I am in NW CT with Charter office in Winsted CT.

I just got a new 3250hd box from timewarner in nyc and im getting two gray bars on the side and the center of the screen is black when I change the channel. I also get the gray bars when I press the guide no matter if im watching a sd or hd channel. Is anyone having the same issue. Tv is a samsung ln-2651d. I tried connecting a pioneer 3510 hd box which i have in my living room and I dont get the gray bars. Im pretty sure its the box but I havent been able to find a fix. It has the passport software on it so I cant get into that setup wizard thats been mentioned. Thanks and hope someone can help.

I just got a new 3250hd box from timewarner in nyc and im getting two gray bars on the side and the center of the screen is black when I change the channel. I also get the gray bars when I press the guide no matter if im watching a sd or hd channel. Is anyone having the same issue. Tv is a samsung ln-2651d. I tried connecting a pioneer 3510 hd box which i have in my living room and I dont get the gray bars. Im pretty sure its the box but I havent been able to find a fix. It has the passport software on it so I cant get into that setup wizard thats been mentioned. Thanks and hope someone can help.

You can change the bars to a darker gray (almost black) in the settings menu. Press the settings button twice and scroll down until you find it. I forget what it's called but there are options for light, grey and dark or something like that. Unfortunatly, I haven't found a way to make them true black.

You can change the bars to a darker gray (almost black) in the settings menu.
You can on SARA software, but not on Passport software.

You can on SARA software, but not on Passport software.

My apologies, I didn't realize there were different software versions. Here I thought the software couldn't get any worse than what I have! :eek:

My apologies, I didn't realize there were different software versions. Here I thought the software couldn't get any worse than what I have! :eek:

Yes I have the passport software so I cant change the color of the bars. Anyone else have the same grays bars with twnyc and the 3250hd?

I have this box. and a sharp aqos 1080p I was wandering I want it to when I watch hd channells to display at 1080i widescreen and the same widescreen when I watch sd. But When I switch to sd the picture is in the middle with bars on the left and right. How do i fix this.

I have this box. and a sharp aqos 1080p I was wandering I want it to when I watch hd channells to display at 1080i widescreen and the same widescreen when I watch sd. But When I switch to sd the picture is in the middle with bars on the left and right. How do i fix this.

Read the first post on the first page for tips.

Dana

I have but I guest that will fix the issue then I have yet to try it.

Have the side gray bars in Orange County, CA. TWC. Maybe a quirk of Passport
(but did not have them will my previous Pioneer HD box).

Just picked up Sciatl3250. (with no manual or papers). I have comcast in Ct. I understand that there are settings and aadjustments in box. I have a Panny th42px60u. What settings or adjustments should the box be on? thanks Joe

I am running component cables into panny th42px6ou. i hear that running s cable or composite for the sd channels makes for clearer picture. and using component for hd . Anyone do this and how is it done, switching back and forth? thanks

I just got a new 3250hd box from timewarner in nyc and im getting two gray bars on the side and the center of the screen is black when I change the channel. I also get the gray bars when I press the guide no matter if im watching a sd or hd channel. Is anyone having the same issue. Tv is a samsung ln-2651d. I tried connecting a pioneer 3510 hd box which i have in my living room and I dont get the gray bars. Im pretty sure its the box but I havent been able to find a fix. It has the passport software on it so I cant get into that setup wizard thats been mentioned. Thanks and hope someone can help.

Well it seems like time warner finally got tired of the complaints. I switched my box on today after work and the gray bars have disappeared. Seems like the passport was updated. Anyone else in the nyc area notice this?

I am trying to setup HD3250 with my new receiver, PE VSX-82TXS. I would like to connect the DVI out on the STB to HDMI input on the receiver and simultaneously connect the STB to the plasma monitor through component out. Is this possible?

Another question: Has anyone connected the STB to the Pioneer ELITE* receiver this way and successfully displayed a picture on a plasma monitor connected to the HDMI out port on the receiver?

I use TWC from Houston and my STB is SARA 1.58.7.1 (unfortunately). The firewire ports don't work! Any workaround(s) to record on a PC?

Thanks.
Options

I don't think its possible to connect to 2 sources, because of the DHCP handshake that occurs with each connection.

There shouldn't be any issues with the DVI to HDMI connection.

What are the best settings for a Samsung DLP with 720P native resolution? Right now I ran the quick settings and set the box to 720P by hitting VOL -. I enabled all the output resolutions in the advanced setup wizard because I could see all of the screens and I also have the picture format set to passthrough. It's hooked up via component as well.

My SA 3250HD, plugged into my Sammy HP-s4353 via an HDMI cable will turn off the output from the S-Video jack and the antenna out connection when I switch the source on the TV to the DVD player (Connected to the TV via the 2nd HDMI input jack)

Is this a known issue?

Sorry to be lazy - i didnt go back and read the 35 pages of posts.

Hey guys, Rogers just got upgraded to SARA 1.59.18. Is there any information available on this build over previous versions?

Hey guys, Rogers just got upgraded to SARA 1.59.18. Is there any information available on this build over previous versions?

Where in Ontario are you located? I'm in Toronto and am anxiously awaiting my update.

Ange

Got a SA3250HD last night even though I ordered an PACE 551, don't know if they are out of stock or what as I couldn't talk to any tech support even waited on the line for an hour last night.

Anyway, hook up this STB to my Toshiba 42HP66 with component cable got all input resolutions (i.e. from 480i std to 1080i). SD in 1080i look slightly better for this TV. One problem I found not sure if its the STB or my TV, HD channel with 720p is faster than 1080i, but it seems to lose part of the top line. With 720p I could see some pixels on the upper right hand corner with few pixels in very bright green color. As I looked closer most of the top line pixels were not displayed (i.e. black), but 1080i was fine. Will it be fixed with a HDMI cable. Also, I saw some vertical line in red blackground but other colors are fine. Seems to me like a setting issue but not 100% sure.

Did anyone experience similar problem? Just wonder if I should ask Cableco to switch to PACE 551 or SA8300HD.

Where in Ontario are you located? I'm in Toronto and am anxiously awaiting my update.

Ange

Hi, I noticed you post on digitalhome as well :) See this post (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=55633). In particular ...

January 8 - 12; DNCS E; Richmond Hill, Woodbridge, Thornhill, Markham, Barrie and Scarborough

January 15 - 19; DNCS A; GTA Central, Mississauga, Brampton, Pine Ridge, Ajax, Oshawa and Newmarket

January 22 - 26; DNCS B; South West Ontario - London/Kitchener and Ottawa


I am in scarborough. GTA Central would count as the downtown core, so it'll be a couple days.

As far as the update goes, if im not imagining things, the black levels have been delightfuly fixed, as well as general picture quality. There is also modification to the interface (if I had a camera I would take a picture).

Thanks A176,

I had already been following that thread too. I may have misunderstood your original post though. Because you posted in the SA3250HD thread, I assumed you have a SA3250HD and noticed an upgrade to it. Is this true or do you have a SA8300HD and are referring to the same upgrade mentioned in the Digital Home thread?

I have a SA3250HD and the firmware is currently 1.52.11.2

Ange.

I do have an SA3250. The thread may be in the 8300 forum, but the memo does say the update applies to 'all' stbs, which is why I linked it - and hey, I got the update myself anyways!

I'm a first time poster to this forum... pretty excited / nervous!

So, it's interesting to hear that a firmware upgrade happened to the 3250HD boxes. How do you go about checking it (the version number)?

Is the upgrade the reason why the "info" button finally shows all the program information onscreen (before it would only show the program title unless you used the onscreen guide, and then hit "info").

I noticed some other weird behaviour. Before, if I turned off my TV, the sound would be cut off (I've got the sound hooked up to a home theatre system). This was because of HDCP. Now, if I turn OFF the STB, the sound will come on after a short delay, regardless of whether my TV is on or off. Finally, a bug that makes the box behave the way I want!!!

Ok, to end off, what's a PACE 551?

:D

Rono

I'm a first time poster to this forum... pretty excited / nervous!

So, it's interesting to hear that a firmware upgrade happened to the 3250HD boxes. How do you go about checking it (the version number)?

Is the upgrade the reason why the "info" button finally shows all the program information onscreen (before it would only show the program title unless you used the onscreen guide, and then hit "info").

I noticed some other weird behaviour. Before, if I turned off my TV, the sound would be cut off (I've got the sound hooked up to a home theatre system). This was because of HDCP. Now, if I turn OFF the STB, the sound will come on after a short delay, regardless of whether my TV is on or off. Finally, a bug that makes the box behave the way I want!!!

Ok, to end off, what's a PACE 551?

:D

Rono

Welcome to the forum and this thread!

See the first page of this thread for info on how to check what firmware version you have. Firmware updates are controlled by the cable cos. If the recent update on your system produced the results you describe, that would be a good thing! :)

The Pace 551 is a different STB. Do a Google search to find out more.

Dana

Anyone know why I get this when I hook up my 3250 to my HD70?
http://www.brentroad.com/photos/00473918.jpg
The box works fine with my other sets and my 8300 works fine with this projector.

SA3250HD Remote Control Weirdness

I have a SA3250HD in the living room connected to a Samsung 46" LCD HDTV. Problem with the SA3250HD box is the remote. It can change channels up to about 5 feet from the box. At 5 to 6 feet a channel change causes the box to go into a fast forward scan of all channels. The fast scan stops on a random channel when complete. At 6 feet the remote does work at all.

WOW tech came out yesterday and replaced the box (twice) and the remote. Both new boxes and new remote behaved as described above. The tech unplugged all other components (Receiver, DVD, iPod, etc.) in the entertainment center with no change in result. The WOW tech then moved the original box into an upstairs bedroom and it functioned perfectly. We returned to the living room and moved pictures, furniture, the location of the box, etc. but nothing solved the problem. Clearly there's some kind of IR interference in the living room. The WOW tech made several calls to other techs and none had ever experienced this problem before.

After the WOW tech left I got an idea. I taped a cardboard toilet paper tube over the IR receiver (just left of the display) on the SA3250HD. My idea was to try an minimize IR interference, reflections, alien gamma radiation, or whatever was causing the problem. Crazy as it may be this solution works!! Of course now the box is little unsightly with a toilet paper tube tapped on the front but at this point it's going to have to due.

Anyone with other ideas?

SA3250HD Remote Control Weirdness

I have a SA3250HD in the living room connected to a Samsung 46" LCD HDTV. Problem with the SA3250HD box is the remote. It can change channels up to about 5 feet from the box. At 5 to 6 feet a channel change causes the box to go into a fast forward scan of all channels. The fast scan stops on a random channel when complete. At 6 feet the remote does work at all.

WOW tech came out yesterday and replaced the box (twice) and the remote. Both new boxes and new remote behaved as described above. The tech unplugged all other components (Receiver, DVD, iPod, etc.) in the entertainment center with no change in result. The WOW tech then moved the original box into an upstairs bedroom and it functioned perfectly. We returned to the living room and moved pictures, furniture, the location of the box, etc. but nothing solved the problem. Clearly there's some kind of IR interference in the living room. The WOW tech made several calls to other techs and none had ever experienced this problem before.

After the WOW tech left I got an idea. I taped a cardboard toilet paper tube over the IR receiver (just left of the display) on the SA3250HD. My idea was to try an minimize IR interference, reflections, alien gamma radiation, or whatever was causing the problem. Crazy as it may be this solution works!! Of course now the box is little unsightly with a toilet paper tube tapped on the front but at this point it's going to have to due.

Anyone with other ideas?

Did this start happening as soon as the Samsung was installed/connected? Back in early August I bought a Samsung 46" LCD TV ( 4692) and with it connected to my cable box and I could not get the box to work properly. As soon as we turned the Samsung on the SA3250HD would not respond for about 5 minutes. I found that if I used any of the "power saving" modes in the tv's setup the box would not change channels at all. Have you tried the SA box when the TV is off? Mine would work fine until we turned the Samsung on then it would not work. With the power saver turned off the box would start to work properly after about 5 minutes of the tv being on. Turn the power saver mode to anything but off on the tv woud cause the box to malfunction-no response to any of the remote commands, even changing channels manually at the box was a no go. I returned the TV after a week of trying to get it all working correctly. You should have been there when I tried to explain to the CC salesman and manager why I was returning the set...I purchased a different brand ( Sony) and the STB box works like it should again. My theory is that the Samsung backlight was causing IR interference to the cable box. No one I talked to had heard of such a thing...including Samsung customer service...they said the cable box was defective...even though I tried 4 different ones from the cable co. The cable co. tech had never seen such a thing either.

Did this start happening as soon as the Samsung was installed/connected? Back in early August I bought a Samsung 46" LCD TV ( 4692) and with it connected to my cable box and I could not get the box to work properly. As soon as we turned the Samsung on the SA3250HD would not respond for about 5 minutes. I found that if I used any of the "power saving" modes in the tv's setup the box would not change channels at all. Have you tried the SA box when the TV is off? Mine would work fine until we turned the Samsung on then it would not work. With the power saver turned off the box would start to work properly after about 5 minutes of the tv being on. Turn the power saver mode to anything but off on the tv woud cause the box to malfunction-no response to any of the remote commands, even changing channels manually at the box was a no go. I returned the TV after a week of trying to get it all working correctly. You should have been there when I tried to explain to the CC salesman and manager why I was returning the set...I purchased a different brand ( Sony) and the STB box works like it should again. My theory is that the Samsung backlight was causing IR interference to the cable box. No one I talked to had heard of such a thing...including Samsung customer service...they said the cable box was defective...even though I tried 4 different ones from the cable co. The cable co. tech had never seen such a thing either.
Luna5 you're a genius!

I turned off the power saving settings on the Sammy and BAM!! everything is perfect. I would have never guessed that dimming a backlight could affect the IR transmitter/receiver on a cable box but it did. I thank you, my wife thanks you, my cable tech thanks you.

Luna5 you're a genius!

I turned off the power saving settings on the Sammy and BAM!! everything is perfect. I would have never guessed that dimming a backlight could affect the IR transmitter/receiver on a cable box but it did. I thank you, my wife thanks you, my cable tech thanks you.

Glad to help....
Mine was so bad that while I had it we started tuning channels on the STB before we turned the TV on. I also found the best picture was with the power saver turned on...then we had no control over the cable box and ended up returning the Samsung.
Enjoy!

Please tell me where to find information on how to get an anamorphic widescreen image to my dvd recorder from this cable box on hd channels (downconverted to 480i, of course).

Thanks,
Jason

Hello!

This may have already been answered in this thread, and I am reading through all the pages (have reached page 9). I thought I will post my problem in the meantime. I am in TW Los Angeles Area, and have a 3250HD. It is running Passport 4.3 build 005. I have a Dell 2407 (1900x1200 resolution) monitor which is suppose to handle upto 1080i and HDCP. Using component video cables it works fine.

When I use the DVI (DVI-D Dual cable) it display the picture for a couple of seconds and then goes away. Here are more details. I was told somewhere that I should connect a computer to the DVI of the monitor and set the computer to 1280 x 720 resolution, and then set the 3250HD to have only 720p activated. I do this while the DVI is disconnected from the STB, while watching my regular TV that is connected using antenna cable. As soon as I connect the DVI cable the picture shows up on the monitor for a couple of seconds, and then goes away. If I look at the Settings menu of the 3250HD it is now set to 1080i and one cannot change it uncless I disconnect the DVI cable.

Thoughts and advice?

Thanks in advance,

Regards,

Emil

Please tell me where to find information on how to get an anamorphic widescreen image to my dvd recorder from this cable box on hd channels (downconverted to 480i, of course).

Only via component.... you can set the set to output 480i only and the component out will give you the squeeze, but NOT the s-video.... if you can get a Pace box, the one I have on my upstairs TV will do the squeeze on s-video, but the s-video qulity is poor in comparison :( ....

:cool:

Please tell me where to find information on how to get an anamorphic widescreen image to my dvd recorder from this cable box on hd channels (downconverted to 480i, of course).

Thanks,
Jason

The (SARA) SA8300HD can do this on its s-video output, and the instruction are over on the first post of its thread. but I don't think the 3250HD can do it (on s-video). DOes your DVD recorder support component in? --hourglass

I have a slight problem with the SA 3250HD box (TWC, Staten Island, Passport). When I'm watching HD shows in the 700s, there's this frequent "flash" of multicolored snow covering the bottom half of the screen, coupled with constant flecks of white dots popping up all over the screen. Sometimes the flashes happen as many as 4 times a second, other times just every few seconds. This only happens when I connect using DVI. When using Component, the problem disappears.

The thing is, if I drop it down to 480p mode, or switch to an SD channel, the problem goes away, even with DVI. And the problem only became apparent in the past few days, and I've had it hooked up with DVI for at least 2 weeks.

Right now, I'm using Component, but my TV performs a lot better with DVI, so I have to choose between inferior picture quality with Component, or putting up with the flashes using DVI.

Can anyone recommend any course of action?

Hello all,

The two SA3250 HD STBs at our house went wacko early this AM when turned on. The box displays were scrolling endlessly but stabilized after the power switch was turned off, then on again. The SA blue screen came up which I took to mean a firmware upgrade had been pushed overnight. Ultimately, the Comcast Guide came up and all went well from there. The boxes now have SARA 1.59.18.1.

One easy to detect change is for the better. The TV can now be turned off without cutting out audio over digital audio cable to an AVR. Prior to this upgrade here at least, turning off the display broke the HDCP handshake and both video and audio were lost. Specifically, I couldn't listen to music channels without having the TV turned on. That is no longer the case.

Otherwise, colors look a bit more vivid and blacks deeper, but perhaps I am imagining things. ;)

This is on a former SusCom system in Brunswick, ME. now operated by Comcast.

Dana

Mine was so bad that while I had it we started tuning channels on the STB before we turned the TV on. I also found the best picture was with the power saver turned on...then we had no control over the cable box and ended up returning the Samsung.

I am wondering whether anyone here has heard of similar incompatibilities with a Sharp LC-46D62U.

I have the following problems that only occur intermittently:

(1) failure to change channels with remote controls after start-up
(2) remote channel + and - buttons causing infinite scroll through channels
(3) a similar problem when using different buttons to change times or channels in guide.

Sometimes, a reboot of the 3250 will fix or change the problem; sometimes, not. I've been able to replicate the problem with three different remote controls.

I am wondering whether anyone here has heard of similar incompatibilities with a Sharp LC-46D62U.

I have the following problems that only occur intermittently:

(1) failure to change channels with remote controls after start-up
(2) remote channel + and - buttons causing infinite scroll through channels
(3) a similar problem when using different buttons to change times or channels in guide.

Sometimes, a reboot of the 3250 will fix or change the problem; sometimes, not. I've been able to replicate the problem with three different remote controls.

Because a reboot of the SA 3250HD sometimes fixes the intermittant problems, I'd suspect the STB before the TV. You seem to have effectively ruled out any issues with the remotes. Since your TV has no DVI inputs, I assume you're connecting the box to TV via a DVI>HDMI cable or adapters. I'd double check all wire connections between the STB and the TV, especially the HDMI connection at the TV. HDMI connections are notoriously finicky. Checking the tightness of connections on the incoming coax is prudent, too.

Assuming connections are not a factor, I'd get your cable provider involved. Comcast can reflash this box with the latest firmware and I assume other cable cos. can do so, too. If that doesn't work, try to exchange your box for another.

One more thought. The next time it acts up, try using the function buttons on the front of the box to achieve what you can't get to work with the remote. That should clarify whether it is a STB or IR remote reception issue.

Good luck. If you finally pin the problem down, let us know for the benefit of others.

Dana

I am wondering whether anyone here has heard of similar incompatibilities with a Sharp LC-46D62U.

I have the following problems that only occur intermittently:

(1) failure to change channels with remote controls after start-up
(2) remote channel + and - buttons causing infinite scroll through channels
(3) a similar problem when using different buttons to change times or channels in guide.

Sometimes, a reboot of the 3250 will fix or change the problem; sometimes, not. I've been able to replicate the problem with three different remote controls.

I had a Samsung LCD TV that did something similar. I found with the TV off the remote and STB worked normally. When the TV was turned on the problem would happen. It turned out that the backlight on the TV was emmitting some kind of interference , especially when I used the TV's user controls to turn it's "power saver" mode on. By turning the power saver mode off completly and letting the TV stay on for a few minutes everything would function normally. Problem was the best picture was obtained using the "powe saver"mode to adjust the backlight . I ended up returning the TV for a different brand and the problem never happened again. So the thing to try is with the TV off see if the remote and STB work properly, if they do you've found the problem. If not call the cable co and try a different STB/remote ( I did this and they tried 3 different boxes which exhibited the same problem) we then discovered it was the TV.

Because a reboot of the SA 3250HD sometimes fixes the intermittant problems, I'd suspect the STB before the TV. You seem to have effectively ruled out any issues with the remotes. Since your TV has no DVI inputs, I assume you're connecting the box to TV via a DVI>HDMI cable or adapters. I'd double check all wire connections between the STB and the TV, especially the HDMI connection at the TV. HDMI connections are notoriously finicky. Checking the tightness of connections on the incoming coax is prudent, too.

Assuming connections are not a factor, I'd get your cable provider involved. Comcast can reflash this box with the latest firmware and I assume other cable cos. can do so, too. If that doesn't work, try to exchange your box for another.

One more thought. The next time it acts up, try using the function buttons on the front of the box to achieve what you can't get to work with the remote. That should clarify whether it is a STB or IR remote reception issue.

Good luck. If you finally pin the problem down, let us know for the benefit of others.

Thanks everybody, for all the valuable information here.

I am on my third STB now. All three have had the same intermittent problems.

In all cases, they seem to be with the IR connection to the remote control. I tested this by successfully using the keys on the front of the 3250.

Most recently, I had a cable-provider technician do the exchange of STBs and connect everything up. There is no problem with strength of signal to the STB. The connection to the TV is via component (since my provider, Rogers in Canada, will not support HDMI). However, even with the technician there, the problem reappeared with the new STB. He was baffled.

Interestingly, thanks to Luna5's posts here, I've started fiddling with the backlight on the TV, which was set very low.

I raised it up to its highest level, which seemed to correct the problem (but made the picture unwatchable). I have since adjusted the backlight to a more watchable level, but the problem has not reappeared -- yet.

I will keep you posted.

The problem reappeared on my next power-on of the STB and TV with the backlight at a low setting.

I've now tested a slightly different fix twice.

(1) Turn on STB and TV with backlight at normal low setting: STB is paralyzed.
(2) Turn backlight to highest setting: remote now works with STB.
(3) Turn backlight back to low setting: remote continues to work with STB.

From that point onward, the remote works with the STB despite the low backlight setting -- until the next power-off and power-on, whereupon I have to repeat the whole procedure again.

I will report whether this fix continues to work. If it does, then it would seem that the problem occurs only when the backlight is set low and the TV is warming up.

The problem reappeared on my next power-on of the STB and TV with the backlight at a low setting.

I've now tested a slightly different fix twice.

(1) Turn on STB and TV with backlight at normal low setting: STB is paralyzed.
(2) Turn backlight to highest setting: remote now works with STB.
(3) Turn backlight back to low setting: remote continues to work with STB.

From that point onward, the remote works with the STB despite the low backlight setting -- until the next power-off and power-on, whereupon I have to repeat the whole procedure again.

I will report whether this fix continues to work. If it does, then it would seem that the problem occurs only when the backlight is set low and the TV is warming up.

Someone who had the same problem as I experimeted with using a paper towel tube from a used up roll. He cut it shorter and covered it with aluminum foil and taped it to the IR receiving window on the STB and had good luck blocking the interference from the TV. I myself tried moving the STB as far away from the TV as my connecting cords would allow but had no luck with that solution. We also used the combo for a while by switching the STB on first and selecting the channel we initially wanted to watch. it seemed that after 5 or 10 minutes with the TV on the STB and remote would function normally as long as the power saver was not trned on on the TV. Once I tried to adjust the backlight to a lower setting all was well until turning it all off and then on as you are describing. It took me a while to return the set to CC as they just could not believe that such a thing was happening but after talking to the departmant manager and store manager they agreed to take it back and give me a refund..I was still within the 30 return period anyway. I still don't think they actually believed me! Good luck with yours..I now know what brand does not have the problem...I have a Sony 46" XBR2, which after 5 seconds or so after it's turned on allows the STB to work perfectly. It still takes the STB 5 seconds or so for it to respond to remote commands on initial turn on, but it's not a problem at all after all I went through with the Samsung. My guess is that these new CCFL backlights emit some kind of interference upon startup and it settles down after they are on for a while. Maybe the shielding on the Sony is a little better but that's only a guess on my part.

I have a Sony 46" XBR2, which after 5 seconds or so after it's turned on allows the STB to work perfectly. It still takes the STB 5 seconds or so for it to respond to remote commands on initial turn on, but it's not a problem at all after all I went through with the Samsung. My guess is that these new CCFL backlights emit some kind of interference upon startup and it settles down after they are on for a while. Maybe the shielding on the Sony is a little better but that's only a guess on my part.

Many thanks for this. I've also read reports of this problem with another Sharp and a Westinghouse LCD.

I wonder whether this problem affects all Sharp D62Us or just a few. Does anyone own Sharp D62Us that do not interfere with their STBs? In other words, is my problem a design fault or a manufacturing defect

What about other LCD TVs using the new CCFLs? Do they all cause an interference problem? Or just a few?

Many thanks for this. I've also read reports of this problem with another Sharp and a Westinghouse LCD.

I wonder whether this problem affects all Sharp D62Us or just a few. Does anyone own Sharp D62Us that do not interfere with their STBs? In other words, is my problem a design fault or a manufacturing defect

What about other LCD TVs using the new CCFLs? Do they all cause an interference problem? Or just a few?

My first HDTV was the Westinghouse 47" and the SA3250HD worked perfectly with that. Unfortunately the Westinghouse only worked for 6 days after I got it so it went back and I bought the Samsung..retruned that after a week due to the STB problem we are discussing and bought the Sony.

Many thanks for this. I've also read reports of this problem with another Sharp and a Westinghouse LCD.
...

What about other LCD TVs using the new CCFLs? Do they all cause an interference problem? Or just a few?

I am using the SA 3250HD with a Westy LVM-47w1 47" LCD conected DVI>DVI. It has worked perfectly since first connected.

Dana

buzzing sound on audio when connecting component cables.

whenever i connect the component cable to the 3250hd i get a medium loud buzz via the receiver. My setup is: SA 3250hd to Onkyo SR574 via component video and optical audio. from there via component cable to Panasonic 42 plasma.

If i disconnect the component cable the buzzing stops, once I plug in one of the component cables the buzz starts again. the tv is turned off, just receiver and cable involved. I have the tv connected via regular 2 plug rca audio to the receiver and then also get a loud buzz on the tv.

had the cable boxed changed several times, some where also self restarting themselves, but always the same results.

anyone have any similar issues or advice?


Thanks

In case anyone is interested, I figure I should describe the solution I'll probably live with. The problem was, of course, that a low backlight setting on the TV interfered with channel-changing and guide-navigation on the STB via a remote control.

My TV is a Sharp Aquos LC-46D62U. Its backlight settings range from -16 to +16, which is of course the brightest level. Through repeated experiments, I was able to determine that interference occurred with a backlight setting of below -1.

I therefore set the backlight at -1 (only a little brighter than I'd have preferred) and have not had a problem for a while.

buzzing sound on audio when connecting component cables.

whenever i connect the component cable to the 3250hd i get a medium loud buzz via the receiver. My setup is: SA 3250hd to Onkyo SR574 via component video and optical audio. from there via component cable to Panasonic 42 plasma.

If i disconnect the component cable the buzzing stops, once I plug in one of the component cables the buzz starts again. the tv is turned off, just receiver and cable involved. i have the tv connected via regular 2 plug rca audio to the receiver and then also get a loud buzz on the tv.

had the cable boxed changed several times, some where also self restarting themselves, but always the same results.

anyone have any similr issues or advice?


Thanks
You might try a line conditioner like the isobars from Tripp-lite. Might be some electrical interference between electrical components or in the cable line feed. The isobar cleans the power and isolates between components.

buzzing sound on audio when connecting component cables.

whenever i connect the component cable to the 3250hd i get a medium loud buzz via the receiver. My setup is: SA 3250hd to Onkyo SR574 via component video and optical audio. from there via component cable to Panasonic 42 plasma.

If i disconnect the component cable the buzzing stops, once I plug in one of the component cables the buzz starts again. the tv is turned off, just receiver and cable involved. i have the tv connected via regular 2 plug rca audio to the receiver and then also get a loud buzz on the tv.

had the cable boxed changed several times, some where also self restarting themselves, but always the same results.

anyone have any similr issues or advice?

Thanks

It is more than likely ground loop hum. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_hum Getting all devices on a common ground often eliminates the problem. Also, RS and others sell ground loop hum isolators that solve the problem.

Dana

It is more than likely ground loop hum. See Getting all devices on a common ground often eliminates the problem. Also, RS and others sell ground loop hum isolators that solve the problem.

Dana

Thanks also to Bfadams. Will try those solutions.

I think my older house doesn't have all outlets grounded anyhow, it;s from around 1950.
All TV, STB and receiver are plugged into the same outlets / circuit.

Powerplug for TV is right on the wall behind the TV, covered by the TV, so difficult to get a ups or other devise behind it as well.

CATV Coax Ground Loops are fairly common....but might as well check entire system:

These are much better articles re Ground Loops and what can be done to eliminate them:
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles/gnd_loop.pdf
http://www.audioxpress.com/reviews/media/AE600HA.pdf

1. First of all, if you have power being supplied to your "system" from wall sockets on different sides
of the room, use power strips so power all comes from same wall socket....but don't overload it...
If there are separate feeds from the breaker panel, this might help.....but it's a long shot....
PS: If you buy power strips, be advised that our local Home Depot carries the Belkin brand,
most of which include RFI/EMI Noise Filters in addition to high energy spike suppressors.

2. Connect grounding wires between your various A/V components, esp. from those that don't
use 3-prong plugs to one that does....if it helps, make it permanent....I do this anyway to avoid
loud pops and hum when I disconnect audio cables.

If your house doesn't have 3-prong sockets, you could upgrade (IF AND ONLY IF) you already have
a safety ground wire to the outlet....otherwise think about alternative grounding methods....

3. Disconnect cable coax. If the hum goes away, it's a cable ground problem.
First make sure the cable coax is properly grounded at the building entry point
(an NEC code and safety requirement).
If that doesn't eliminate the hum, try a CATV Coax Isolation Transformer, such as the fol. ISO-MAX:
http://www.avsupplystore.com/jen-vrd1ff.html
http://www.cs1.net/cables/jensen_transformers.htm
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/datashts/vrd1ff_manual.pdf
Note that CATV needs both extended LOW frequency AND high frequency response,
so be wary of cheap knockoffs...

However, if it's a cable ground loop problem, I would call the cable system to fix it....

4. If it isn't the cable feed, there are isolation transformers for power, video and even component video:
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/iso_vid.html
http://search.cablestogo.com/?qu=isolation%20transformer
and "hi-fi" audio:
http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/hansen-galo2706.pdf

CATV Coax Ground Loops are fairly common....but might as well check entire system:

These are much better articles re Ground Loops and what can be done to eliminate them:
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles/gnd_loop.pdf
http://www.audioxpress.com/reviews/media/AE600HA.pdf
......


Thanks holl_ands.
I will start with the cable tv line, as this seems to be the culprit. I don't get any noise from the dvd or tape.

If that doesn't help i will try to other options.

Will report back here, also to help others.

UPDATE
I double checked and it seems to be the cable connection. Once I take the digital cable out of the STB the humm goes away on my TV and via the receiver. Cable back into the STB and the buzz is back. Hopefully Charter comm will be able to ground the cable, otherwise I have to purchase one of the line devices mentioned above.


Update 5/7/07

I ordered a Dayton VIT-1 Video Isolation Transformer and installed it first directly on the cable box. worked like a charm, no more buzzing sound or video hum lines. then I moved it before the splitter with outputs to a total of 4 tv's. Again buzzing was eliminated and video hum lines are gone as well.
Charter cable come out and checked the lines, grounding of cable is proper. The tech didn't know anything about his cable line creating interference. I demonstrated the problem with the buzzing sound by unhooking the component cables. Tech noticed the problem and was gonna bring it up to his supervisors.
In any case. problem fixed - Thanks again for all the peoples input and suggestions.

Now all I need is the correct code for the remote to turn off my Onkyo TX SR574 ....receiver

I am have been trying to get my SA 3250hd to work with my Onkyo SR574 receiver. All codes provided for the ur2 exp chd2 http://www.ecuarace.com/remotes/REMOTES/ur4_exp_chd2.pdf file (http://www.ecuarace.com/remotes/REMOTES/ur4_exp_chd2.pdf) don't turn the unit on. one code works for the volume only.

If anyone knows a working code for the remote / cable box please let me know.

Thank you.

I've gotten myself on a list to beta test a soon to be released Samsung STB. TWC start moving to those this year, for both HD & HD-DVR.

I currently have a SA 3250HD for a bedroom Toshiba 23HLV87, and a P 3510HD for a Samsung LN-T4661f.

The SA works best with my Toshiba, which didn't like the DVI>HDMI on the Pioneer. It's also a much smaller box so better for a bedroom.

I was thinking of replacing my Pioneed for the 3250 as well, since it has a coax out, meaning I could send a cable to the coax in on my TV and possible finally use the PIP (which only pulls from Cable source). But, I simply can't deal with the grey bars on my big TV, which the SA inserts on SD channels. On my 23" it's not so bad.

After getting the most recently manufactured 3250 TWC could find (April 2007), the grey bars are still there. Scientific Atlanta, TWC, and Aptiv (makers of Passport guide) all claim no firmware/software updates exist. SO, that debunks rumors of upgraded boxes that don't do the grey bar inserts.

Enter the Samsung model, which hopelly will answer all issues. It's smaller, has HDMI out, doesn't insert grey bars. No word on whether it will run Passport, but I assume it will.

I'll update when I get the test box (I'm told by mid-summer).

Here is my diag summary for an HD channel:
Comcast, Southern NH

Tuner 633 MHz, -8 dBmV
FDC: 74MHz, 11 dBmV
RDC: 20MHz, 33dBmV

I notice some macroblocking during fast movement, scene changes.
Do you think this is associated with my -8 dB drop?

I have rg59 running 50ft from my splitter (-3dB on the splitter jack). RG6 coming in from the outside.

I get between -3 and +1 dB on the analog and non HD channels.

Wow, quite a thread! I admit I did look through the whole thing. I also have the 3250HD via Comcast (previously Adelphia), hooked up to my Panasonic Th-50PE77U plasma. I use component for the connection. I noticed between channels that I can see some horizontal "scan" lines moving from the bottom to the top. You can see then when a picture is there, but they are most noticeable between channels, when the screen goes blank for a second or two while the TV identified the signal (I use pass-through). Does this sound like it's caused by the signal? I don't see this when watching a DVD through Component 2, or when I shut the cable box off (the screen gets much darker due to no signal, so it's tough to tell if it's there or not).

Any thoughts? I'll try the cable direct into the TV (antenna) jack tonight, but I'm just wondering if something could be wrong with component 1 on my new plasma.

Thanks all. Great thread.

Wow, quite a thread! I admit I did look through the whole thing. I also have the 3250HD via Comcast (previously Adelphia), hooked up to my Panasonic Th-50PE77U plasma. I use component for the connection. I noticed between channels that I can see some horizontal "scan" lines moving from the bottom to the top. You can see then when a picture is there, but they are most noticeable between channels, when the screen goes blank for a second or two while the TV identified the signal (I use pass-through). Does this sound like it's caused by the signal? I don't see this when watching a DVD through Component 2, or when I shut the cable box off (the screen gets much darker due to no signal, so it's tough to tell if it's there or not).

Any thoughts? I'll try the cable direct into the TV (antenna) jack tonight, but I'm just wondering if something could be wrong with component 1 on my new plasma.

Thanks all. Great thread.

It might be caused by a ground loop. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_%28electricity%29
In video, ground loop can be seen as hum bars (bands of slightly different brightness) scrolling vertically up the screen.
One way to tell is to be sure that all incoming devices are grounded to the same outlet including the incoming cable coax = no ground loop. A power strip with an in/out coax connection should do the trick.

Ground loop isolators are sold by places such as RS for less than $20. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214&cp=&sr=1&origkw=ground+loop&kw=ground+loop&parentPage=search

Dana

Thanks. So chances are, it's not the TV?

Thanks. So chances are, it's not the TV?

I think chances are it's not. You could move the STB to Component 2 - or the DVD to Component 1 - and see if the lines appear/disappear. That should further isolate the problem if it is external.

I'm betting it's the STB and specifically the coax that needs a common ground. It's not unusual and I think we've discussed it before on this long thread.*

Dana

* Check the lengthy post 937 above posted back in April.

You nailed it. Coincidentally, when I got home tonight, the plasma was on, but the cable box was off (darn kids). So, no signal. But I heard an audio hum. I tried it on DVD, no hum. I then unscrewed the coax from the wall and the hum went away. GROUND! The noise must have been there before, but I always had a signal feed, so I always had sound to drown it out, until today. I thought my only problem was the lines!

I went outside and cut the ground wire and redid it, so it was clean wire. I then, in the basement, made sure the ground was getting a good ground to the breaker box (where the cable ground block from outside was grounded to). Then, and I actually think is what did it, I grounded the 3 way splitter to the breaker box as well. It wasn't grounded before.

I then tried it out. No audio hum at all, even with the volume all the way up. And the horizontal lines, moving vertically, were gone!!

Thanks so much Dana. I read this whole thread, and never considered that that could be a problem. The links in that post above nailed it too, on the horizontal lines...

And I may be crazy, and even my wife agrees (which is really saying something), but the SD picture quality, even HD, looked even better than before this repair. Is it possible that ground loop was also degrading PQ?

One more question on this box - I too experience the sluggish response time for menus and channel changes in the middle of lineup, channels 50-65 or so.

I read that others do as well, but is there anything you can do to improve this?

the 3250hd is sluggish and needs to be phased out.

Hi, i just got this HD box from timewarner NYC. My problem is that all the channels are displayed at 4:3 even though i have it set to 16:9. I can not even get to the setup menu thing, when i hold guide and info nothing comes up, can any1 help me out?

Hi, i just got this HD box from timewarner NYC. My problem is that all the channels are displayed at 4:3 even though i have it set to 16:9. I can not even get to the setup menu thing, when i hold guide and info nothing comes up, can any1 help me out?


Turn the box off before doing the guide info combination.


Else unplug it for ten seconds to reboot it.. clock comes back on its
all set to go.. Make sure its OFF then do the Info/Guide button combination.
Good luck


John.

Turn the box off before doing the guide info combination.


Else unplug it for ten seconds to reboot it.. clock comes back on its
all set to go.. Make sure its OFF then do the Info/Guide button combination.
Good luck


John.

Ya the box is off when i do it. Does my TV outlet wire need to be plugged in2 the cable box for this to work? When i tried b4 my cable box is off and i get a blank screen on the TV.

Ya the box is off when i do it. Does my TV outlet wire need to be plugged in2 the cable box for this to work? When i tried b4 my cable box is off and i get a blank screen on the TV.


Yeah just unplug the box for ten seconds or so, plug it back and go get a cup of coffee.. come back and when the time is displayed on the box you are good
to go Push info/Guide at the same time should bring Hd setup wizard..

Page 9 is advanced set up wizard

http://www.scientificatlanta.com/products/consumers/userguidepdfs/4003114.pdf


use the keys on teh remote to navigate.

Yep plug the tv into the set top box, if this doesnt work plug it in seperate outlet temporarily..

and of course make sure the Television is ON.

Good luck..

John

Yeah just unplug the box for ten seconds or so, plug it back and go get a cup of coffee.. come back and when the time is displayed on the box you are good
to go Push info/Guide at the same time should bring Hd setup wizard..

Page 9 is advanced set up wizard

http://www.scientificatlanta.com/products/consumers/userguidepdfs/4003114.pdf


use the keys on teh remote to navigate.

Yep plug the tv into the set top box, if this doesnt work plug it in seperate outlet temporarily..

and of course make sure the Television is ON.

Good luck..

John


Wow i just don't know why it doesn't work, i turned off the cable box and also unplugged it too, still no HDSETUP. I know to get to the diagnostics menu, u have to press Select+Exit. You think i would have to press another button?

Wow i just don't know why it doesn't work, i turned off the cable box and also unplugged it too, still no HDSETUP. I know to get to the diagnostics menu, u have to press Select+Exit. You think i would have to press another button?


Give it a second while holding those two buttons in.. Hmm else i dont know.


John.

Give it a second while holding those two buttons in.. Hmm else i dont know.


John.

Meh! i give up! I dunno if i got a faulty box, or if time warner set them up like that. i r very sad!

After reading some other threads, do you think coz my box has passport software that i cant get the HDTV setup wizard to work?