Mike, I'm worried about how the new firmware will treat 4:3 films like "Casablanca" for users of 16:9 screens. With the old firmware, setting the pj to 4:3 native gives the film in correct aspect ratio in the center of the 16:9 screen. A "windowed" effect, if you will, with no distorting of the image and without making the people look short & fat.

Are you saying that if I send my H30 in to get the new firmware, that it will no longer use this windowed effect?

In other words, with the new firmware, what setting does the H30 have to be at to get the 4:3 film "windowed" in the middle of our 16:9 screens?

Originally posted by Johnny Bax
In other words, with the new firmware, what setting does the H30 have to be at to get the 4:3 film "windowed" in the middle of our 16:9 screens?

4:3. Uisng native 4:3 goes to the full chip and expands the image outside a 16:9 screen.

I figure I may as well get started on my DIY-BO cloth 4:3 screen while I'm waiting for those good 'ole H30's to start shipping again. Has anyone seen gross errors in the Projectorcentral projection calculator for the H30? I will have a screen width limitation of about 64" and a very fixed projection distance from lens to screen of right about at 10'. This falls right in the middle of the throw range on the calculator so I'm wondering if it's safe to proceed.

Cheers!

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Has anyone seen gross errors in the Projectorcentral projection calculator for the H30?

No. It appears to be the same as the one on the Optoma website, but you should probably use theirs anyway.

I wish more of the companies would use a system like Projector Centrals. I love the screen size/distance calculator. I can't even get the one on Optoma's site to work. The pop up doesn't display any information. Glad to hear the PC calculator is accurate, so I'll be able to proceed.

I'm in the same position you are, gottahavapj. I want to start building my 16x9 screen for the H30. I'm also sketching out some ideas for a mask that can handle 1:2.35 material as well.

Hope Dell starts shipping the updated units soon. :)

I ordered from Dell on 3/15, called today to see what was going on since it was posted someone received a H30 yesterday from Dell without the firmware upgrade.
No shipment date as of yet still on backorder- so it would seem the one shipped yesterday was something of a fluke.

rudee

Originally posted by valkyrie
I wish more of the companies would use a system like Projector Centrals. I love the screen size/distance calculator. I can't even get the one on Optoma's site to work. The pop up doesn't display any information.

It works if you choose the "Screen Size" button here: Optoma Calculator (http://www.optomahometheater.com/content/calculator_index.htm)

There is currently no word from Optoma as to when new H30s will be available, so don't believe what you might see on some websites. Stay tuned.

If the degradation in picture quality isn't noticeable to you or the positioning of the 16:9 image on a 4:3 screen is highly important then the 4:3/4:3 combo will give you the correct aspect ratio and same size as the 16:9/16:9 configuration. However, the 16:9/16:9 should yield a better picture (regardless of the optics issue with the H30).


okay say i have my 1.78.1 screen and i watch 4.3 content on it will it have the balck bars on the sides only correct :)

It works if you choose the "Screen Size" button here: Optoma Calculator

Yes, but not if you have a fixed projection distance. In my case, I have a beam in the ceiling to which I want to mount the projector. I need to know how big my screen will be.

Assuming the projector central calculator is corret, it looks like a screen size of 96x54 is good for my 16' viewing distance. That matches when I put it in Optoma's site, but I really like the active sliders on the PJ site. They make understanding the size-distance-AR relationship SO much nicer than any manufacturer's site, IMHO.

Mike ,
-- hmmm , is it just me or is the older firmware going to be highly sought after by some people wishing to use a 16:9 screen and have 4:3 right in the middle [ or does c05 allow this with the normal 4:3 mode selection - not the 4:3 Native selection which you stated now uses the full 800x600 panel with all sources ] . If you have already stated this then I certainly apologize as I did not see it mentioned ;) .

--------- Jason

I getting you can still use 16.9scaled and 4.3scaled within the 16.9 masked mode at the bottom of the screen. How this will effect 16.9native is unkown. I'd assume if you setup for 16.9native since the only 4.3 option is scaled that they'll be bars all around. Or maybe they set it so 4.3scaled fills the 16.9 screen with window bars even if you first setup for 16.9native.

I remember the last thing Wing was telling me about the firmware was they were working on having all the signal feeds fit the same in a 16.9 frame, HDTV, DVD etc

We have to wait for Mikes chart.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
or does c05 allow this with the normal 4:3 mode selection - not the 4:3 Native selection which you stated now uses the full 800x600 panel with all sources

Yes. The 4:3 setting allows that.

From what Mike said several posts back:

projector mode '4:3' - this will "window-box" 4:3 in the center of a 16:9 screen

projector mode '4:3 native' - this will use the entire panel and would need a 4:3 screen

So the new firmware doesn't lose any of the older functionality.

Ah ,
--- Sorry for the trouble there Mike ;) [ I did not see it - doh! ] .
------ Jason

Wow, looks like we were all typing at once :D

Okay, he we go. There is virtually no difference in the display whether the DVD player's set for 4:3 output or 16:9. My DVD player also has a 4:3 LB setting, but since many do not, I'm not even going to get into that here. Just fit your screen type into the picture.

As a side note, I put in Blade 2, 2nd chapter, and the rainbows I saw with the BenQ 6100 are non-existent with the H30.

Sorry, Tom, but I haven't got to the HD yet. :(

I didn't measure each image, but I think you can see what's the best setting for each. "Bottom" means that the image is on the bottom of the screen.

I will host the Chart on my Website [ if you do not mind Mike ? ] .
--- Great work :) !
------ Jason

Sure, go ahead.

Basically, if you have a 4:3 screen, Native 4:3 works well for everything but anamorphic widescreen. With a 16:9 screen, you'd want to use 4:3 for 4;3 movies, Window or Native 4:3 for non-anamorphic and 16:9 (or Native 16:9) for anamorphic. Of course, you can also use the first zoom setting to enlarge the image for some of these as well.

Ok , it's there on the 2nd page of Pics ;) .
---- Thanks ,
----- Jason

Originally posted by hikarate
Also, Tom was trying to decide if a 4:3 or 16:9 screen would be better. Basically what am I losing by having a 4:3 screen? Can't I run the projector as 16:9 and have the best of both worlds on the 4:3 screen? Only thing missing I know of is the border at the top of the 16:9 image because it is displayed at the bottom.
Is there something else I am missing out on because I have a 4:3 screen?
Thanks guys.

No, the border at the top is the only thing I can think of. If you can hang some velvet or some other form of mask to cover the top of the screen when you're using 16:9 then you would get that border back. This is probably a good idea as the 4:3 screen would reflect back any light spill when in 16:9 mode.

Kevin

okay tom or mike or jason or who ever i read everything and now which screen type would you guys go with and yes i know it depends on what you are watching , but with mikes and Steve's explaining is that if i get the firm ware all 16:9 material is stretched ?


the only thing i have yet to decide on is what format i am going to be using


size 92x52 or 92x68 ?


high power ;)

Basically, if you have a 4:3 screen, Native 4:3 works well for everything but anamorphic widescreen

Hehe, and with a DIY anamorphic lens, your a big winner!

Will be checking out my cheap prisms/cylindrical lens this week-end. Hope they are not blurry:eek:

Joe ,
--- I would go with 16:9 [ but that is just my opinion ;) ] .
------- Jason

Awesome!
Thanks Mike that is extremely helpful.
Joe if your getting a PullDown Tom says High Power is only choice, if its fixed then you may have some other choices. I got the HP at Tom's recommendation.
I went with the 4:3 screen, but that was a personal decision

Thanks for the reply Kevin, yeah definitely plan on looking into some type of felt pull over for my 16:9 viewing. I hadn't considered it originally but after checking some other posts here I saw a lot of people do that sort of thing so really no draw backs at all to getting this PJ.... Other than the wait...
But thats what this thread is for right? Keep us busy till it gets here :)
Thanks again for everything guys!

I would go with 16:9 [ but that is just my opinion ] .



so i guess the firmware upgrade won't be necessary just calibrate with my color facts and go from there and pic up the lens

QUOTE]Joe if your getting a PullDown Tom says High Power is only choice, if its fixed then you may have some other choices. I got the HP at Tom's recommendation.
I went with the 4:3 screen, but that was a personal decision


is your set up ceiling or is it cabinet and how is the pic in general not to bright because with my big samples i like the pic in general and i have a cabinet mounted :)

Hi Guys - sorry, I added this to the main forum but it may be more apt here !

Just picked up my UK ThemeScene H30
Cable works fine through the SCART>VGA connection, but I've probs with both my DVD player (Cyberhome) and DVD Recorder (Philips).

When I connect the Cyberhome player and try and play a DVD the H30 locks onto the signal but nothing is shown on screen.

With the DVD Recorder, I get a picture but it looks like it's picking up interference badly with double-vision and shimmering.

Odd thing is that the Cable via the SCART is fine.

Ive tried the player & Recorder through the SVideo and this is fine.

Any ideas guys ?

Does the Player and the Recorder have menu options to enable the SCART output , I know many US models have a Selection to enable the Component output .
--- Worth a shot ;) .
-------- Jason

Hi Jason

Haven't checked - but they both work fine when connected firect to my TV via SCART - Just seems a bit weird !?
:(

I'd like to see how Marco does on the DIY lens. Keep us posted.

Now I hope I get my machine back by Friday. First I'll try out my 4.3 screen. In the Screen Forum people have posted DIY roll down masking systems. The good news is all you'll need is one from the top. Users with machines like the H56 or HT1000 would need systems from the top and bottom. Either screen you pick you can still make use of the lens mask. It looks like it snaps on & off pretty easy.

"probs with both my DVD player (Cyberhome) and DVD Recorder (Philips)."

Sounds like a copyright protection problem. Though I would think Scart would just transcode to a component/VGA signal. You might hv to call the Tech area for an answer.

Got my RMA number today to set the H30 in for the firmware upgrade. The email I got said that the firmware won't be available till Monday. I guess some guys in this forum rate so that's why they can get their's done sooner. :)

Originally posted by guitarman
I'd like to see how Marco does on the DIY lens. Keep us posted.


Same here, although I doubt my ability to make one. ;)
There are just so many things that can go wrong with optics.
It sure would be nice if it worked though.

Originally posted by SGOne
I guess some guys in this forum rate so that's why they can get their's done sooner. :)

Nah, they just got tired of my whining every day for the past 5 weeks. :D

Originally posted by guitarman
"probs with both my DVD player (Cyberhome) and DVD Recorder (Philips)."

Sounds like a copyright protection problem. Though I would think Scart would just transcode to a component/VGA signal. You might hv to call the Tech area for an answer.

Hi Tom

I dont think it's a copyright issue as I'd expect to be able to at least get the DVD splash screen or menu up when a disk's not inserted.
I noticed that the DVD recorder signal seemed to stabailise after about 30 seconds....but then went out of sync again.

It's late here (1am) so I'll try again tomorrow night - Read something about adjusting frequencies in the manual - But have never had to do this before for SCART connected devices.

By the way - Picture is awsome when going through svideo and projecting onto a "peach" painted wall :) - Just need to get the SCART prob sorted then I'll be happy!
Cheers
Simon G

If the "Signal" sub menu of the "Image" menu appears, that might be your key adjustment.

Simon ,
-- be sure to try the ReSync button ;) .
---- Always check the obvious things first :) .
------- Jason

Mike, for H30 owners with 16:9 screens, I'm scratching my head trying to figure out if the firmware is really needed by us. Since we don't care about the full 800x600 4:3 material, is the only benefit(other than than the "green push" fix) the handling of Non-Anamorphic widescreen DVD's?

Johnny Bax ,
-- The Zoom mode is now better for 2.35:1 and I think the proper AR is maintained while using 16:9 Native [ these are a couple other benefits of the new c05 firmware ] .
-------- Jason

How is the h30 for SD tv ?
Would it be better via htpc (ffshow,dscaler ,etc).
KenW

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
Simon ,
-- be sure to try the ReSync button ;) .
---- Always check the obvious things first :) .
------- Jason

Hi Jason

hanks for the tip, but this was the 1st thing I tried.
Optoma have suggested checking the the DVD etc ar set to RGB - But also checked this last night.
I'm sure (hope!) it will be something simple .
Cheers

Simon G

Is there a difference between SCART and SCART RGB?
I only know that yer dvd player is supposed to have an SCART-RGB out and if you set yer player to give a SCART RGB signal than you should be fine...
Cant think of an other reason than this i am afraid...
Hope you figure it out..

Greetz Lars

Originally posted by new teq joe
is your set up ceiling or is it cabinet and how is the pic in general not to bright because with my big samples i like the pic in general and i have a cabinet mounted :)

I don't have mine set up yet. Waiting for PJ! The High Power is not ideal for ceiling mount, but Tom said this PJ is so bright that you don't need the full gain of the HP. You lose some gain with the ceiling mount, but it is still enough to have a bright picture. The main reason he recommended it was that the HP is much less prone to waves. Again this is for pull-down screens, if you can get a fixed screen then you have more options to consider.
I also went with the model C which has a larger roller, and also is supposed to help eliminate waves. I don't know if that was overkill though considering I also got the HP screen. Definitely had to pay a premium for the Model C.

Also if you haven't read this, it is pretty interesting and may help you decide:
Da-Light - Angles of View (http://www.da-lite.com/education/angles_of_view.php?action=details&issueid=29)

Ok guys I have 1 more questions (Again)
I have kinda asked this before but didn't understand the answer:
I have 7"11" ceiling
84" 4:3 screen
PJ ceiling mounted 10' back
"Ideally" I plan to hang my screen 15" down from the ceiling.
Its 50" high so that leaves me 30" inches from the floor

Concerning Keystoning, will I need to drop my projector lower from the ceiling to have less keystoning, or get it closer to the ceiling? Does moving the PJ lower from the ceiling cause the image to move up or down?

If the image moves down, then having the ability to hang my PJ lower will come in handy to limit the amount of keystoning I need. If the image moves up then I need higher ceilings, or just don't have the option to place the screen as low as I hope to because my ceiling height is the limiting factor.
The way I understand it, the image will move down, as I lower the PJ from the ceiling. So moving the PJ 6" down should drop the image down to about where I want it, or at least get it closer. Is this correct or do I have it backwards?
Thanks again!

Well I decided not to wait for the firmware(htpc anyway) and asked will at optoma canada to ship it back to me.
I just got it this morning and I want to say that the customer service was excellent!
They didn't get the new firm loaded but he did hear my distress and tried to help me anyway he could. Also he paid for shipping both ways because I was strapped and emailed me daily...
Kudos to: WILL XING at optoma canada for makeing this as painless as possible for me...

I'm Back in Black!!!

Rocker999,

We have to agree with you on the service at Optoma, they really were fantastic with us as well, even to the point of overnighting our projector back to us. We were very impressed.

Originally posted by hikarate
Ok guys I have 1 more questions (Again)
I have kinda asked this before but didn't understand the answer:
I have 7"11" ceiling
84" 4:3 screen
PJ ceiling mounted 10' back
"Ideally" I plan to hang my screen 15" down from the ceiling.
Its 50" high so that leaves me 30" inches from the floor

Concerning Keystoning, will I need to drop my projector lower from the ceiling to have less keystoning, or get it closer to the ceiling? Does moving the PJ lower from the ceiling cause the image to move up or down?

If the image moves down, then having the ability to hang my PJ lower will come in handy to limit the amount of keystoning I need. If the image moves up then I need higher ceilings, or just don't have the option to place the screen as low as I hope to because my ceiling height is the limiting factor.
The way I understand it, the image will move down, as I lower the PJ from the ceiling. So moving the PJ 6" down should drop the image down to about where I want it, or at least get it closer. Is this correct or do I have it backwards?
Thanks again!
Hikarate-

I don't know the answers to your questions but will wait here with baited breath until they're answered. Your setup is so similar to mine it's eery. Almost every dimension the same to within a few inches. I was hoping keystone might work out about perfect as Jason's Panavise mount will allow me to swing the H30 up to within a few inches of the ceiling and I think the top of the 4:3 image maybe about a foot lower than the lens at 10'. I don't know why I think that but I hope it's true :D

Cheers!

I know gottahavapj, we really have close to identical setups. I went with the panavise mount too. Got the 9" with knobs instead of Allen wrench though. I thought the added length might help me with keystone, but really don't know. But figured since it can also be set up low profile to the ceiling I wouldn't lose anything by trying it. If I had the PJ in hand I wouldn't have to ask all these dumb questions :)

Ceiling Mounting :
--- The lower the H30 hangs the lower the projected image will be [ keeping the PJ level ] .
___________________

--- My H30 is mounted to an 8' ceiling , the mount holds the PJ about 7.5 inches down [ from ceiling to the center of the lens ] since I have the mount shifted a little forward [ does not hang straight down ] . I have a very slight tilt to the PJ [ and I mean very slight ] , I use 0 keystone and the bottom of my image is 35 inches from the floor [ this is for 16:9 or 4:3 but I do use a 16:9 screen ] . I have no need for any keystone adjustment with this set-up as the image is almost exactly the same size along the top and the bottom [ meaning : distance (width) across the top and the bottom of the image is nearly identical so there is no keystone required ;) ] .

-- Oh and because of the design of the PanaVise mount it can swing forward 4 inches or back four inches if I wanted to have the mount low profile [ close to the ceiling ] , this is with the 6" model so obviously the 9" would allow for even more adjustment front to back . The mount also allows total 360 degree Rotation control .

___________________
---- Jason

Thanks Pimp,

Thats what I wanted to hear. That mount you found sounds like it offers the most flexibility and best price. I should be able to get my PJ hung just how I want it. Thanks a ton for the heads up on the panavise mount.

hikarate ,
--- I would agree as I don't think anything else out there can offer as much flexability for the price ;) [ but still be as strong as this mount is ] .
--- I certainly hope the PanaVise mount works out well for everybody that decides to try it :) .

---- Thanks for the kind words on my website 'Guest Book' by the way ;) .

--------- Jason

Jason :

Can you please tell me what is the distance between the projector lens and the screen ?
Also I am sorry to bring "old ghosts" but do you see any symptoms of the problem you had with your 1st projector ?

Ariel

I echo hikarate's sentiments just like my theater is gonna echo his I suspect :) Thanks Jason!

Is the lens mask for eliminating any light spill or masking the black bars of the 16:9 image or both? Is light spill a problem with the 16:9 image at the bottom of the screen?

Mike

Originally posted by CobraMR
Is the lens mask for eliminating any light spill or masking the black bars of the 16:9 image or both? Is light spill a problem with the 16:9 image at the bottom of the screen?

Mike

I believe you'll see light spill above the image.

Ariel ,
-- I am lens centered at 12.2' away from the screen which allows for a range of 79" to 96" diagonal 16:9 image [ I decided that I like the 'POP' of the 96" image vs. the 110" ;) ] . Plus since the closest seat in my room is only about 4' away from the screen I can shrink down to about an 80" diagonal [ to increase the image quality for those that are sitting too close to the screen when I have a full room of guests ;) ] .
--- I am having no issues at all with this new H30 [ have 60+ hours so far and have not even broken it in yet , can't wait to get 100 hours so the slight red push is gone - this is normal for almost all digital PJ's ] .
_____________________

gottahavapj ,
--- Always happy to help when I can , you are very welcome :) .

_____________________

CobraMR ,
--- The mask is for masking the Light Spill .
--- Light Spill is above the 16:9 image in either mounting position [ as markusg stated above ] .

_____________________
------- Jason

Thanks markusg and Jason for the info on the lens mask. I do appreciate the help.

Also, I am interested in the distance from the lens center line to the bottom of the image for a table mounted H30 at 10 feet?. Can anyone give me an idea of what the offset would be in this case?

Thanks,

Mike

Jason,

I know you use a 16X9 screen but I need to clarify something for myself.

On the measurements you just gave to Ariel, is the H30 using the middle of the lens (H30 set at 4X3 with VGA via HTPC) or H30 using lower portion of lense (H30 set to 16X9)?

I sure hope the H30 log jam breaks and they start filling their backlog soon.

Thanks again Jason for your many contributions to this thread.

Fred

Mike (CobraMR) ,
--- Taking a guess here but I would say the offset would be around 1' .

_________________

Fred ,
--- The bottom of the image remains the same no matter 4:3 or 16:9 [ using HTPC ] . Remember the bottom of the Panel is used for 16:9 and the entire Panel is used for 4:3 so the bottom will always remain the bottom regardless of AR ;) .
--- Now if I use 4:3 Native and shoot 16:9 right in the middle then certainly the bottom of the video image would be higher .

__________________
---------- Jason

Originally posted by CobraMR
Also, I am interested in the distance from the lens center line to the bottom of the image for a table mounted H30 at 10 feet?. Can anyone give me an idea of what the offset would be in this case?

Thanks,

Mike

I actually have the H30 in a temporary setup that's table mounted at that distance, so I can give you an exact measurement a little later today. It's probably pretty close to the 1' that Jason speculated.

Just FYI, I contacted Optoma yesterday and asked about shipping status of the H30's (in particular to Dell). They said the units should start shipping 9 days from now, that they would have updated firmware, but that they will still only be in limited supply (i.e. that they wouldn't be able to fill Dell's entire order right away). So, for those of us near the mid-March order date, it may be good news that our units may ship from Dell in the next two weeks.

Hikarate,

Thanks for taking the time to measure this with precision. It means the offset is 18.8% of the throw.



For a 10 foot throw, 22.6 inch offset.

Quoting myself again...:p

Guess who took the time to make the measurements...

Seems this is the kind of info that belongs in a FAQ...

With so much talk recently about the H30 display modes, and aspect ratios...

can someone confirm if the 4:3 modes are accurately displayed? On my X1 I can't help but notice that the 4:3 mode is actually 10-15% taller than it should be. People look slighlty taller and thinner. it is really obvious when displaying a circle on the screen (looks slightly tall and oval)

I hope the H30 does a better job... or is this always a problem with PJs?

Marco T ,

--- Where did you get the 22.6 inch offset from ?

--- When I had my H30 floor mounted I had no where near that much offset [ if you are talking offset from lens center to the bottom of the projected image ] .

--------- Jason

Jason ,Marco T

I think that you could have different results depending on how much you have the PJ zoomed. I would state in your measurements if the projector has no zoom or full zoom form x distance = x offset. To me that seems like the only way you can report this info in a useful way. Other wise it could be different for every one depending on amount of zoom used or I guess you could state screen size at a given distance. Just a thought. I may be off my rocker. Keep up the good work all.

Does anyone ells find this forum to be extremely addictive?

Max

Pimp, there's something in your setup that doesn't seem to reflect what I've read from others in this forum. Ok, let me re-cap what you've stated earlier.
Ceiling Height = 8' (96")
Projector Lens = 7.5" from top of ceiling = 88.5" from floor
Projector Distance to Screen = 12.2' (146")
Bottom of Screen Image = 35" from floor
(Assuming you have a 96" Diagonal 16:9, the height of image should be 47" high.

Lets do the math....
The top of your image should be = 35" + 47" = 82" from floor

Ok, that means that the vertical offset from the projector (center of lens to top of screen is = 88.5" - 82" = 6.5" [seems pretty low???]

Can you verify this, I'm trying to see if this projector will fit properly in my room with minimal or no keystoning using a 16:9 screen.

Thanks.
Mike

Here's what I got for measurements when ceiling mounting and using a 16.9 screen.


If I set my projector perfectly level and use no keystone

Lens center is 6" down from the ceiling

Projector is 173" from the screen surface

Top of 16.9 image is 38.5" from the ceiling

My ceiling height is 94.5"

Using a 92"X52" 16.9 screen

So that's a 32.5" offset to the top of a 16.9 image. Ofcourse it's not that drastic from a table mount being your starting point is from the bottom of the screen. From what I remember with a table mount it's about 1'.

Ofcourse it's not that drastic from a table mount being your starting point is from the bottom of the screen. From what I remember with a table mount it's about 1'.



yep tom that sounds about right i have the pj cabinet mounted about 2.5 ft off the ground and with a 16:9 image at 92x52 with minimal zoom at 14ft away it is pretty centered for viewing .:)

So that's a 32.5" offset to the top of a 16.9 image. Ofcourse it's not that drastic from a table mount being your starting point is from the bottom of the screen. From what I remember with a table mount it's about 1'.

Tom,

More math coming. If I subtract the difference between the height of a 4:3 image (69") and your 16:9 image (52") at your 173" throw distance, I get 17". Since you measured 32.5" offset from lens to the top of the 16:9 image, I should be able to subtract the 17" difference from your 32.5" offset to get a 15.5" offset to the top of a 4:3 image which should be the bottom of the image for a table mounted H30! Since you and Jason recall roughly 1 foot, this calculation seems reasonable. I have to go stick my head in water now. I'm smelling smoke!

Mike

Okay, here's a measurement of the offset for you.

Projector is level, table mounted with lens 10' from screen with 0 keystone.

Zoomed in (largest image) - 9-1/2" from center of lens to bottom of image
Zoomed out (smallest image) - 11-1/2" from center of lens to bottom of image

This is the same for 16:9 or 4:3, since the 16:9 image is at the bottom.

Re: factory calibration - Colors are right on, some slight adjustment of white and black levels needed to adjust for my particular room. Gamma (to the naked eye) appears very good as well. In addition to the elimination of rainbows I mentioned earlier, the picture is noticeably better than the BenQ 6100 I have here next to it.

Tom, I finally fed it 1080i (upconverted) and I don't see any difference in the position of the image from the 480i or p of the DVD player. I don't have access to feed it from my HD STB at this time, but the image from the ADS Tech Upconverter I'm evaluating looks good.

Max ,
--- Good Point ;) .
-- Which leads to my next statement .
__________________

Mike (Biggus75) ,
--- I was using NO Zoom when I posted those figures [ my mistake , sorry if I confused everybody - Oooops ;) ] .

---------- Jason

Originally posted by guitarman
Here's what I got for measurements when ceiling mounting and using a 16.9 screen.


If I set my projector perfectly level and use no keystone

Lens center is 6" down from the ceiling

Projector is 173" from the screen surface

Top of 16.9 image is 38.5" from the ceiling

My ceiling height is 94.5"

Using a 92"X52" 16.9 screen

So that's a 32.5" offset to the top of a 16.9 image. Ofcourse it's not that drastic from a table mount being your starting point is from the bottom of the screen. From what I remember with a table mount it's about 1'.

So Tom.........

If my cyphering is correct the bottom of the image is onl y 4" off the floor?

Do you have the capability of hooking up a laptop to project a 4x3 image from that distance? If so under the same circumstances how far is that image from the ceiling?

Steve

I guess zoom level must be mentioned...:o

MikeSRC seems to have all the offset info nailed down. I'll be using his info to plan ahead:D

Thanks MikeSRC so much for taking time to obtain the exact measurements! Your effort is greatly appreciated!

Mike

Just don't mount the screen until you get the projector. :D

That says a mouthful Mike... thanks!

hey guys

my celing hight is 82" is this going to cause me a problem. I am using a 16.9 screen 80"x45"........i only have 18.5" from my celing to the top of my screen. from what i understand its not good is it:(

torontomapleleaf

Don’t fret too much. I would tell you that your room is not perfect but nothing is! It is much better than my situation. My ceiling height is 79" and my throw distance is about 12 feet. I have a 48"x80" screen and it is only 3" off the ceiling. My projector is 2.5" form the ceiling with quite a tilt up. I have quite a bit or keystone around 16. I am projecting around an 88" image 16x9. I can’t move the screen down any further because of a ledge on the wall. Even though this is not a great situation. The picture still looks great. Everyone I bring over is blown away by the picture and sound. I love it. I am sure it would work great for you too.

Max

hey jason

do you have a modle # for that PanaVise

thanks

thanks max that made me feel great. i was very worried

Sure. I find a lot of the time people focus on perfection. Witch I think is a driving force for this forum. This is not meant to be disrespectful it is a complement. That’s what we all want! But I think there certainly is room for great. Like the H30 we all know it is not perfect but you sure get a lot for your money!

Max

Jason,

I sent you a PM.

Thanks,
Ryan

PANAVISE MODEL #826-06W
__________________________

QUOTE : "Okay, here's a measurement of the offset for you.

Projector is level, table mounted with lens 10' from screen with 0 keystone.

Zoomed in (largest image) - 9-1/2" from center of lens to bottom of image
Zoomed out (smallest image) - 11-1/2" from center of lens to bottom of image

This is the same for 16:9 or 4:3, since the 16:9 image is at the bottom. "
__________________________________________

--- Just wanted to add for those that do not know :

--- The smallest image is 1.00 Zoom [ or No zoom ]
--- The largest image is 1.22 Zoom [ or Full Zoom ]

--- The image should look its best at 1.00 [ No Zoom ] since this gives the tightest SDE .



________
--- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp

--- The image should look its best at 1.00 [ No Zoom ] since this gives the tightest SDE .

________
--- Jason [/B]


Are you saying that a 100" image projected with no zoom and another 100" image projected closer with maximum zoom will look different? How could that be?

I've heard here that the middle area of zoom is best. Re the SD, the size of the pixels relates to the distance of the projector to the screen. All that aside setup comes down to what's easy. For me the studs in my ceiling mainly allowed me to place the pj where I needed to use most of the zoom. The differences of what's best are a little hard to see, so no issue.

All in all everybody can setup and use this projector with great results. Even our buddy here who has his 16.9 screen up at the ceiling. :)

Next feature coming up the lens mask.

Hey Mike, thx for the HDTV update. There's a good chance I'll get my H30 back Friday. It's been ruff without a projector. I think it's safe to say to anyone getting a projector, there's no going back. And make it a DLP. :)

Originally posted by hikarate
Concerning Keystoning, will I need to drop my projector lower from the ceiling to have less keystoning, or get it closer to the ceiling? Does moving the PJ lower from the ceiling cause the image to move up or down?


When using a 16:9 screen the following applies in my situation:

When it is lower from the ceiling the image will be projected lower as well. Thus you need to tilt the projector up even more to make the image appear on your screen. Thus meaning more distortion = more keystone correction.

So I'd say mount it as close to the ceiling as possible still allowing it to be tilted up a little.

Disadvantage of the projector being more close to the ceiling is the ligth spill that will cause huge stain of ligth on your ceiling. However the upcoming lens mask will resolve this problem. I worked around this by using some black tape to use as a mask on the lens.

Ronald

clamrade ,

--- My comment about Zoom is considering that the throw distance is the same at Zero Zoom vs. Full Zoom [ it was not directed at changing the distance from the lens to the screen and then comparing Zoom modes ] . Full Zoom (1.22 on the H30) gives a larger image at any given distance than Zero Zoom (1.00) . You are magnifying the Panel when using Zoom and therefore making the Pixel structure on the screen larger [ I have looked at this very closely and the pixels are slightly larger using Full Zoom - thus more SDE is evident vs. Zero Zoom (1.00) from the same throw distance ] . I also read a tech article about a year ago that explained this in detail but I cannot find it now ( figures :( ) .

--- Again I am not comparing mounting distances [ lens to screen ] .

----- Jason

anyone knows the cheapest way to make a screen? I know some use some kinda plasctic board, but i cant find that stuff in the netherlands..

anyone knows the cheapest way to make a screen? I know some use some kinda plasctic board, but i cant find that stuff in the netherlands..



i think you are talking about park lawn plastic do a search and there is all kinds\ of stuff on it ,and there is other materials also


look in the screen section of the forum :)

Originally posted by tingtong5
When using a 16:9 screen the following applies in my situation:

When it is lower from the ceiling the image will be projected lower as well. Thus you need to tilt the projector up even more to make the image appear on your screen. Thus meaning more distortion = more keystone correction.
Ronald

Actually Ronald, I believe I avoid this tilt problem with the Panavise mount. I actually can adjust my projector anywhere from 3" to 12" down from the ceiling. So with this mount I should be able to drop my screen lower, and drop the PJ lower at the same time to avoid any keystoning. At least that is my hope, I won't know for sure till I get my grubby little hands on this thing, but from what Pimp stated it sounds like it should work this way.

While never having personally seen it, I have heard good things about this:

http://www.svideo.com/screengoo.html

for a "cheap" screen alternative.

"So Tom.........

If my cyphering is correct the bottom of the image is onl y 4" off the floor?"

21" for the video area bottom of the screen up from the floor with my setup.

Jason, I knew that was going to sound funny. Just wanted new setup guys to understand they didn't have to use minimum zoom. :)

Mike, you're going to set up in native 16.9aspect?

"anyone knows the cheapest way to make a screen? I know some use some kinda plasctic board, but i cant find that stuff in the netherlands.."

Better than that use Curtain Blackout material you should be able to find at a material store. Make up a frame, paint it flat black or cover it with black velvet (looks nicer), staple on the blackout material. I have one of these ins the garage. Good points the screen is a flat white with no reflections and the whole thing is a feather weight.

Originally posted by guitarman
"So Tom.........

If my cyphering is correct the bottom of the image is onl y 4" off the floor?"

21" for the video area bottom of the screen up from the floor with my setup.

Jason, I knew that was going to sound funny. Just wanted new setup guys to understand they didn't have to use minimum zoom. :)

Mike, you're going to set up in native 16.9aspect?

Tom
that doesn't make sense.

21" off the floor to bottom of screen
52" for the screen
38" from top of screen to ceiling
total 111"
but you said your ceiling is 94"

Forget the 21" off the floor that's where it's at with my tilting the projctor up. You can get the correct distance for the bottom from mathing my numbers. I don't have the projector here to reset it level to double check. :(

Originally posted by guitarman
"anyone knows the cheapest way to make a screen? I know some use some kinda plasctic board, but i cant find that stuff in the netherlands.."

Better than that use Curtain Blackout material you should be able to find at a material store. Make up a frame, paint it flat black or cover it with black velvet (looks nicer), staple on the blackout material. I have one of these ins the garage. Good points the screen is a flat white with no reflections and the whole thing is a feather weight.
There is tons of information about this in the screen forum. Search in there for BO cloth. There are numerous links in there as well for frame construction techniques, cloth stretching tutorials, etc. I have about 5 of them bookmarked.

The previously mentioned plastic sheet is Parkland Plastic that can be obtained from a Lowes near you. I think Tom makes some good points on the cloth screen.

Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman

Mike, you're going to set up in native 16.9aspect?

I don't know if the extra resolution's worth losing some of the picture. It looks pretty good either way. I just have to get going and finish the theater room so I can properly mount the H30.

Regarding mounting options, it looks like I'll be going with a Vantage Point 13" TV wall mount. You can invert the base plate and by drilling some holes in it, I can screw the H30 to it like a ceiling mount. I've got a high ceiling that's 10' at it's lowest point, so I don't thing ceiling mounting is going to work as well as wall mounting it.

Hi fellow H30 owners, I have finally hooked up my H30 to my Panasonic RP82 and projecting on a 70" wide 4:3 MW Dalite screen.

This PJ is awesome, the colors are vivid, the blacks are great and like Tom said, it really opens up details in the Mines of Moria scenes in The LOTR FOTR, I am so happy, coming from an X1, which I had to sell due to bad rainbows. The H30 with 4x wheel is practically rainbow free, I can finally have the subs on while watching a movie, even in dark scenes :) and that really makes enjoying a movie so much better, as my family and I can now follow every single word of the dialogue.

It has been a very long journey to the H30 especially for me, I have been following this PJ since December 03 and was even one of the early ones to have actually seen this PJ in action and having been trying to get my hands on one at a reasonable price in Singapore. They were originally going for a totally rip off price of USD2350.00 in December. I finally found a great seller with great service and got my set Fedexed to me direct from Optoma, I will be catching on lots of movies over the next few weeks.

Thanks all especially Tom and those who have contributed so much to this thread on the H30.

Cheers

Good news Xvader, A few great DVD titles available this month. Matrix Revolutions for one on this coming Tuesday. Detail in the blacks should be awesome for this DVD.

My screen came today, half way there!

Tom ,
--- Ah yes , I am certainly not saying that Zero Zoom must be used to obtain a nice image , even at Full Zoom the H30 rocks :) !!!


I can vouch for the new 'Matrix:Revolutions' DVD , it is done very well [ just got to see it a few days early from a friend that owns a Video store ;) ] .

--------- Jason

Has anyone hooked up a progressive scan dvd player and compared it to a non-progressive scan dvd player on the H30? Obviously the advantage of a progressive scan dvd player is the deinterlacing is done digitally before it is converted to an analog signal, but I wonder just how much a difference this makes. If the H30 deinterlacer works good, is a progressive scan dvd player a waste of money?

thanks!:)

I prefer a good progressive scan player, it's just a little smoother over interlaced.

I agree, although if you don't have a particularly good progressive scan player, then I would use the H30's deinterlacing.

Where can i buy an H30.

Thanks,
Neo

NEO2000- you can buy one from MikeSRC when they become available again. You can have yours right AFTER he sends me mine :D

Cheers!

Originally posted by MikeSRC
I agree, although if you don't have a particularly good progressive scan player, then I would use the H30's deinterlacing.
I wonder about this for my equipment. I have an Onkyo changer that I question the quality of the deinterlacer in that's only about 4-5 months old. It wont be getting replaced anytime soon. I guess I'll try both connection methods to the H30 and see which one wins out. I would like to get some Belden/Canare cables from Ram as they are a sponsor of the forum but it doesn't appear that they allow returns. I don't want to sit on a $70 component cable if the s-video/480i connection letting the H30 deinterlace works better.. hmmmm

Even if you do end up feeding the H30 480i, component cables would still be a better way to go than S-video.

Still need some help here I'm afraid guys :(
I still have the same prob connecting the H30 to my existing DVD Player & recorder via the SCART>RGB adapter.

Small update on the history of the prob....

1. Connect to NTL (UK) Digital Cable box = works fine
2. Connect to my Cyberhome DVD 528 Player = No picture
3. Connect to my Philips DVDR870 DVD Recorder = VERY unstable picture
4. Connect the DVD Player via SVidoe or Comp = Works fine
5. Connect DVD recorder via SVideo or Comp = Works fine
4. Connect PC via VGA cable = works fine

My Digital TV box works fine and I've confimed that this is set to RGB.
I cant find an RGB setting in the Cyberhome 528 Player menu.
Philips DVD Recorder is set to RGB.

I've ruled out a prob with comflicts between SCART devices etc by connecting each item direct in turn.
All three devices work fine connected to my Toshiba 40" RPTV.

I really need to get this ceiling mounted asap (Sold TV on Ebay) and ideally I only want to have to wire in the power cable and a single signal cable (I.e VGA one).

Do I have a faulty H30??

What are they saying at Optoma Technical help? I know there's a few others here from Europe that are using Scart ok. They're not around much, probably busy enjoying the view.

Update on my PJ firmware situation. It was ready to go yesterday but when it went thru the final QA they found they had to replace a board. Richards says he'll call me soon and I'll shoot down personally to pick it up. They're only 30mins away. Guess I'm desperate to get it back. :)

Hope you can get it back today, Tom. I'd be interested to see what you think of it over the weekend. It's been so long since I'd seen mine, I can't tell if there's any difference (other than the display changes we all know about) in PQ.

I guess it's a good thing you sent it in for the firmware upgrade. I wonder what the issue was with the board they replaced and if that would have caused some problems down the line.

Hi Tom

Optoma have suggested chacking the DVD Player & Recorder are set to RGB - which I've done (Although DVD player doesn't seem to have the options listed).
Maybe I'm just missing something but in the UK the idea of SCART is to be "Plug & Play" and I've never had any probs connecting these units to TV's so donlt understand why the H30 seems to object.

Seems strange that VGA in and SCART in from the Cable TV box work fine - Maybe it's just not compatible with the Cyberhome and Philips players !? (Seems strange though )

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Even if you do end up feeding the H30 480i, component cables would still be a better way to go than S-video.

If I am over 2X viewing distance is 480i over component rather than S-Video still going to make a big difference? From what I have read basically component has better color separation and can provide a sharper image. I plan on using S-video and wondering if those improvements will be very noticeable at over 2x viewing distance.

Also can anyone tell the difference between a true component feed and one sent through the VGA adapter? Wondering if anyone used a VGA adapter on a PJ that has both component and VGA inputs and noticed any difference. I hate the idea of investing in the component cables when:
* The PJ doesn't have true component in
* I know my next PJ will be all digital
* I'm sending a 480i signal
I am hoping the S-video is "acceptable" and then if I really want to show someone what the PJ can do I can always show a DVD on the PC over the VGA port.

What you guys think?
(I know an HTPC is the real solution here, but I am not considering that right now)

Tom ,
Errmmm ... a bad board ?
--- Did they specify which board [ what the board does ] ?
--- Your H30 sounded to be so perfect , I wonder how it could have had a bad board ... sounds a bit odd to me .
_________________________________

--- By the way does anybody know how Optoma handles the Lamp issues when they go out under warranty [ does the entire PJ have to be sent just for the Lamp ] ? I am just curious - thanks :) . I understand that they would like to check the PJ itself if the Lamp fails early but I still wonder what the Policy is for warranty Lamp replacement ;) .

--- Isn't Wing due for his weekly posts about now ;) [ or has it not been that long since his last valuable contribution ] . The dead pixel policy sure put a big grin on my face :) .
_________________________

--------- Jason

hikarate ,
--- I am certain you will be fine with S-Video but Component does look a bit better to me on the H30 [ even though it does not have direct Component inputs ] .
--- There is no signal loss when using the Component to VGA connection [ I have checked it with a multi-meter ] .
--- If it were me , I would go Component but if it is easier for you to do the S-Video connection for now then I am sure you will still have a great image :) .
--------------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
--- By the way does anybody know how Optoma handles the Lamp issues when they go out under warranty [ does the entire PJ have to be sent just for the Lamp ] ? I am just curious - thanks :) . I understand that they would like to check the PJ itself if the Lamp fails early but I still wonder what the Policy is for warranty Lamp replacement ;) .


They do ask you to send the projector in so that they can check to see if something else caused the lamp's premature demise. From their warranty statement:

"Consumable items such as lamps are not covered under this warranty policy; however, a 90 Days DOA (Dead-On-Arrival) policy will apply to these consumable items."

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
--- If it were me , I would go Component but if it is easier for you to do the S-Video connection for now then I am sure you will still have a great image :) .
--------------- Jason

Ditto. :D

Thanks Mike :) !
--- 90 day DOA policy , that sounds funny since if it were DOA then it would not require 90 days . Sounds like some Legal wording is involved there . I have always thought DOA meant DOA and nothing beyond that [ meaning you get the PJ and open it up , plug it in and whamo ... nothing ] . I am not concerned about it since it would seem that they are taking care of Lamp issues very well [ within the 90 day policy - as oddly as it may be worded ;) ] .
----------------- Jason

If the H30 is mounted perfectly horizontal, would the vertical offset be the same distance for a ceiling mount vs. a table mount assuming distance to the screen and zoom factor are the same? (I realize that for a ceiling mount the image will be below the lens and for a table mount the image will be above the lens). Thanks,

Mike

They consider any problem within 90 days to be equal to DOA, so you get a new projector rather than a repair.

Originally posted by Biggus75
If the H30 is mounted perfectly horizontal, would the vertical offset be the same distance for a ceiling mount vs. a table mount assuming distance to the screen and zoom factor are the same? (I realize that for a ceiling mount the image will be below the lens and for a table mount the image will be above the lens). Thanks,

Mike

Yes, if you're talking about a 4:3 image. With a 16:9, the image is at the bottom no matter how the projector's mounted, so the offset increases when you ceiling mount.

Update on my PJ firmware situation. It was ready to go yesterday but when it went thru the final QA they found they had to replace a board. Richards says he'll call me soon and I'll shoot down personally to pick it up. They're only 30mins away. Guess I'm desperate to get it back.



tom did you get any info on this board issue because i was probably the 3rd person here to pick up the h30 and the first down here ?

Tom,
What model JVC dvd do you suggest ?
Finished the pot lightring ... new 200 amp box is in .
Will order a h30 this week (I think they are on backorder in Canada).
This project is ok for regular SD tv viewing
( I use LOOK tv in Canada ... some channels better than others on my new 32" HDTV) can I excpect the same on H30
or it depends on the de-interlacer .

Thanks,
Can hardly wait to get one of these !!!

Back to the cave .... run speaker wires.
KenW

I use LOOK tv in Canada ... some channels better than others on my new 32" HDTV) can I excpect the same on H30


OK you have look well look tv is like digital,well it is like the old saying goes here on the forum garbage in and garbage out ( as in the signal goes ) but with hd very nice

Yep , Joe is right on there .
--- You can only do so much with SDTV .
------- Jason

well was doing some testing on the h30 and i did find out what it could be because i just noticed it now


when i fire up the pj the lite bulb comes on then it goes down again and then it fires up again when it fires up a third time there is a flash on the wall then the screen comes up :confused:


so this must be something to do with the distribution of the current in the pj or it is the bulb ?

Joe ,
--- do you hear a whirling sound each time ?
--- If so then that is the Color-Wheel syncing up ;) .
-------- Jason

do you hear a whirling sound each time ?


yep



what is the cause of it ?

Well I read a long tech article but I don't recall the entire thing so basically the Color-Wheel has to sync up and sometimes it takes it a few tries to get it right [ from what I have read this is totally normal for DLP PJ's - well not the 3-chip DLP's as they have no Color-Wheel ] .

--- When the wheel spins down [ shuts off ] it loses sync and therefore must re-sync when powered back on .

----- Jason

Well I read a long tech article but I don't recall the entire thing so basically the Color-Wheel has to sync up and sometimes it takes it a few tries to get it right [ from what I have read this is totally normal for DLP PJ's - well not the 3-chip DLP's as they have no Color-Wheel ] .



but jay for the color wheel to sink or try to sink with the pj would that not be current related ?


so yours does the same thing i figure ?

I've experienced that on occasion as well. It seems to happen more when the projector's turned on after only being off for a short time.

I think Jason's right on the money about the color wheel sync. I remember seeing that somewhere as well.

I've experienced that on occasion as well. It seems to happen more when the projector's turned on after only being off for a short time. think Jason's right on the money about the color wheel sync. I remember seeing that somewhere as well.

OK guys got it ;)


but this board thing is bugging me because if tom did not notice anything ,mmmmm what board is he talking about

Yep , the bad board thing has me curious too , especially since Tom seems to have had the best H30 of them all [ perfect color balance out of the box ] with no issues what-so-ever .

---- I wonder just what it could have been ... probably end up being something silly that has nothing to do with the image [ or maybe we will end up hearing of some form of recall on the early H30's ] . Maybe the board in question is related to the Heat issue that has been noted ...

-------- Jason

---- I wonder just what it could have been ... probably end up being something silly that has nothing to do with the image [ or maybe we will end up hearing of some form of recall on the early H30's ] . Maybe the board in question is related to the Heat issue that has been noted ...



you know what jason i was just thinking the same thing but a board is a board,heat sinks and resistors and so on are something else that could be the problem for the over heating also?

Ok I'm back round trip run 2hrs. Nice big facility they have down there. I met David from the Tech area and went over to see Wing. In the lobby they have a super looking 50" RPTV/DLP. Yes Optoma makes a beautiful DLP/RPTV. I took a wrong turn and ended up in the loading area surrounded by many crates filled with DLP projectors, every type.

They didn't amplify on the board. Just what I heard before. "The firmware was done and when it went to QA they spotted the problem and replaced it and the Firmware was put on again.

Wing really wanted to show me around and see all the products but I had to beat the commute rush which I did.

I'm invited back anytime to use there calibration equipment if I like. I think I said it before, one item they use I'm familiar with Colorfacts 6500. It was great to meet the Optoma crew. Wing chased me down after in the loading area to give me his card when I was with David, then David says Oh you're the quitarman! wow let me shake your hand. I think they like me down there. :)

Can' wait to try out the pj.

so this sounds like it has to do with the eprom ,because if he had to down load the firmware again .mmmmmm

because the board that is with the eprom is the brains of the system .mmmmmmmmm.

I'm wondering if the snuck in a new bulb lol

Also since they reset the machine whether the hour counter is reset also.

Another thing I don't recommend rushing them when they're working on youR PJ. They didn't have time to rerun a calibration, lucky I wrote down my service menu numbers so I can re create what was before. Lets see how that works. I can always go back down there on my day off and Wing would help me with the equipment and point out some extra tweaking options.

The member here I sold my colorfacts to says he'd like to see the projector and bring over the analysis system. Using colorfacts take a little time to que in a flat 6500k.

I'm wondering if the snuck in a new bulb lol


well tom when they replace the firmware and a main board it automatically resets it's self ( but maybe )

took a wrong turn and ended up in the loading area surrounded by many crates filled with DLP projectors, every type.
Even H30s? :D

After talking to Thomas and Wing on the phone so much, it would be nice to meet them someday. Maybe they'll be at CEDIA.

Glad you got your H30 back, Tom. Let us know what you think.

Yes H30's H76's, H56's & lots of Easy Pro's. Wing had an H30 on his desk. :)
He said it was a firmware update. Now who's it that?

so tom what do you think of the new pj and for our set up which way 4x3 16x9 ;)


and do you think it is needed if you go 16;9 ? (new firware )

new teq joe,DaGamePimp other canadian h30 owners

Do you have any site in Canada to get the h30 ?
If anyone has dealt with these online any comments (good or bad)
would be welcomed.

I have seen the following: If anyone has dealt with these online

www.avdeals.ca
www.projectorsplus.ca
www.quebecacoustic.com

p.s. Sounds like Tom had a good time

KenW

well because you in montreal try http://www.quebecacoustic.com/


but remember it goes for less then 2000$ canadian

Very Cool Tom ,

-- wish I could have gone too ;) .

-- How far is the HQ from Sacramento ? I have relatives there and might try to swing a trip to see Wing if possible :) . Of course I wouldn't be as famous as you but hey ... ;) .

------ Jason
_______________



KenW ,
--- I am not in Vancouver B.C. ;)
---- I live in Vancouver , Washington [ right next to Portland , Oregon ] .
---- Sorry I cannot help .
------- Jason

Joe, I'll be trying out both screens tonight. I'm interested to see how a 120" 4.3 image looks.

Joe, I'll be trying out both screens tonight. I'm interested to see how a 120" 4.3 image looks.


okay sounds good let me know what you think .;)

I live in Vancouver , Washington [ right next to Portland , Oregon



jason i thought the same thing at first :o

DaGamePimp,

oops (not object-oriented).
Thought it was Vancouver B.c.
I think I will try the HTPC option when I get my H30
(with a regular dvd as backup )
(have p4 1.7 s/b radeon 9200se with dvi output s/b ok for DVD playback ?


KenW

Sacramento is 1 1/2 hrs from where I am and Optoma is about 40miles/40mins from me. Figure a little over two hours from Sacramento. Milpitas is near Freemont on the East side of the bay. Freemont is a ways before Silicon Valley/San Jose.

Hmmm ... 2 hours each way is not too bad [ have to keep it in mind if we go down there this year ] .
------- Thanks Tom :)

tom and any body else here that owns one or has seen one the model b delux pulldown dalite if you want to wall mount it do you need to purchase any Wall Brackets - 6-inch extension: No.11 Wall Brackets - extension: No.23 Wall Brackets - 14.5-inch to 25-inch extension:

Originally posted by guitarman
Joe, I'll be trying out both screens tonight. I'm interested to see how a 120" 4.3 image looks.

Perfect... I have been hoping to hear from an experienced user with a 120" screen...

You are using 96 x 72 correct?

and your seating is about 14" from the screen?

Totally cool... exactly what I would like to know about!!!!

PQ
SDE
SD Cable or Satellite
DVD
X-box
HD Cable or Satellite



Steve

Originally posted by guitarman
Sacramento is 1 1/2 hrs from where I am and Optoma is about 40miles/40mins from me. Figure a little over two hours from Sacramento. Milpitas is near Freemont on the East side of the bay. Freemont is a ways before Silicon Valley/San Jose.

?? very close to Oakland Airport?

Oh well... anxious to hear all the reports now from Tom in addition to Mike and his info on the new changes..

Have to fly a flight to Buffalo in a couple of hours so I will look back in on this unfolding story when I get to the hotel.

Steve

Tom,
Is the non-anamorphic dvd issue now resolved with the firmaware update ? My H30 is in for service now for the update and a new bulb, maybe that was mine on Wing's desk .

Mike must have been luckier than me.

Issue's
Can't sync with S-video, it's out.

Component from DVD is ok and HDTV from my Sony STB is ok but can't
be formated in the 480p/native res, it will still be a little larger.

Another wierd glitch is the Sony's hooked up through component, I can play HDTV but the PJ won't sync up on analog channels, you just get a black screen with a big green bar at the top. Same thing with my laser disc player though S-video no signal just a green bar at top.

Well you see my PJ has to go back for a fix.

Anyone with the firmware as it is now and using a 16.9 screen will have to use the scaling aspects to allow HDTV,OTA, DVD to all match up within the 16.9 frame.

A 4.3 works in that the HDTV is just taller not wider but it still looks stange having the image at the bottom. Masking a must.

Brock, for a 16.9 screen the window aspect button will stretch up NA correctly, although it also moves it up a few inches. Or with a 4.3 setup just using native 4.3 will work for NA dvd's because you'll have your player set to 4.3 letterbox and the widescreen images are displayed in the center of the screen.

Tom :

Bad news, But Hi, look on the bright side - I am certain they will now give you that new bulb you wanted !!!
Hope you will get it back soon.

Ariel

That bizz about the board going bad maybe part of it. This time I'll let the Techs take their time. The bulb counter did get reset and there was a totally different set of calibration numbers. Actually once I got the black,white and colors done with Avia I thought the picture looked even better. Seemed like the blacks got blacker.

Hi again guys

Just a quick update on my prob.....
I tried connecting the H30 to a 3rd DVD player using the SCART>RGB adapter - Worked perfectly ok :)

So.....looks like I have an incompatibility with my Cyberhome player and possibly the Philips DVD recorder :(

At least it looks like the PJ is ok :)

tom you should of just got the calibration done and left the pj the way it was because with these problems ,mmmmmm well i am not going to nothing right now i am just going to pick up my screen and then run it the way it is .


so how does it go again for the old set for all modes to sync



player set to ?


pj set to ?

for all to fit

ps everything is going to work out for you for sure ?

thnx for the screen tips. BO Cloth sounds good. The only thing i gotta do i wait till i got enuff money to buy this PJ :S
Hope ill join this family someday..

Greetz Lars

Has anyone heard about when the PJ's are going to start shipping again?

Ah this is screwy, I can't find any problems at all this morning. S-video works, I'm watching Star Wars on LD. The analog Direct TV signals are working.

"you should of just got the calibration done and left the pj the way it was"
Joe
Calibration was the one thing I didn't need. Wing said earlier when they first looked at my H30 that the calibration that was done at factory was very very good. Now since they reset the projector when applying firmware calibration has to be done again.

They did calibrate it some what this time, Interlaced it dead on but progressive pushes just the bright level very high. A quick user tune with Avia can balance out that brightness and colors look very good. In fact like I said blacks seem a little blacker.

I can't figure why I had troubles when I first tried the projector out. It can't be cable setup faults because I was getting HDTV correctly but when I switched to any analog channel I had nothing. Who knows maybe Direct TV had a bad night. :)

But then again when I ran a straight S-video cable I got nothing from both the DVD player and LD player. Can't figure it.

I

hey guys

as i said before i have a low celing(6'10") and a 16.9 screen. i dont wanna tilt my pj up. is there any way to put the wide screen in the middle of the chip if i got 4.3 sceen? like setting the pj to 4.3 and the dvd to 16.9? if so will it kill the PQ. that way i can have very little offset only 12" i think jason said

cheers

Tom :

So are you one happy camper after all ?

Ariel

can't figure why I had troubles when I first tried the projector out. It can't be cable setup faults because I was getting HDTV correctly but when I switched to any analog channel I had nothing. Who knows maybe Direct TV had a bad night.



tom it's those damn gremlins again screwing with our stuff :confused: :D


so how does it go again for the old set for all modes to sync



player set to ?


pj set to ?

for all to fit

I'm just glad I can use the projector.:)

About you guys wanting a better offset, you can set your dvd player to 4.3 Letterbox and get the better offset with the image in the middle of the frame. I did several a/b's to try to see a difference. The difference is hardly noticable if not at all. So if you have a low ceiling this type setup would be very beneficial.

People asked about a progressive scan player. I'm useing th JVC becuase it can diplay NA material correctly if needed. WIth the firmware allowing Letterbox support you can use any top notch player like a RP82, Denon 910, the models with the early Farouja chip.

Originally posted by guitarman
About you guys wanting a better offset, you can set your dvd player to 4.3 Letterbox and get the better offset with the image in the middle of the frame.

Maybe I should add the 4:3 LB to the chart after all. I guess most DVD players do have that setting.

Strange about the S-video thing, Tom. Oh well, as long as it keeps working.

--- I think Tom might have mixed the 'Wacky Tabaccy' a little too strong in that cigar he had last night ;) - lol .

_____________________

torontomapleleaf ,

--- If you are planning to get the NEW c05 firmware then you would just use 4:3 on both the DVD player and the H30 [ this would center the 16:9 image on a 4:3 screen ] . With this set-up you would be losing some image quality vs. using the 16:9 setting on both the dvd player & H30 .

-- Or you could use an HTPC with the current firmware (c04) .

-- And yet another option would be a Transcoder to convert Component Video to RGB(vga) so that you can enable the entire 4:3 panel [ this would be with the current c04 firmware since the new c05 firmware does not require true RGB to open the full 800x600 panel ] .

____________________
-------- Jason

Well, received the prisms last week.

Good points :

For 7$, the optical quality is very nice. I guess you can see a slight difference when looking through it, but it is very small. And its more of a lumens absorption issue than a distorsion issue.

Polish quality is great for the price.

Bad points:

The wankers were advertising 30/60/90 prisms, and they sent me 45/45/90 rectangular prisms. This might still work, but it will be a set back, as all the formulas I had seen used 30/60/90 prisms. Very misleading info on their part.

I am really afraid they will be slightly too small. I guess I will be able to find out at the canuck shootout.

Stay tuned.

I was running video today on a 120" 4.3 screen. Direct TV looked very good and the SD is no different, It's still hidden. You can view at the same distance you have for the widescreen setup. High quality 4.3 dvds looked fabulous, like the two sided Fifth Element.

The blacks are very good so when you view a widescreen movie on a 4.3 screen the large black bars are very black so you'll see no lighter colored bar when viewing a 2.35 movie. All the black just blends in together.

About the Dalite pull down screens, you can attach them flat on the wall if you like.

I setup both my screens today. Becuase I hv to use brackets. I'm able to pull back the 16.9 screen with bungie cords, then the 4.3 screen can be pulled down over the 16.9 screen and hiding it.

What I'll do is when ever I want to view Music videos and Classic DVD's I'll use the 4.3. When I mainly watch widescreen material I'll swing down the 16.9 screen and attach the curtain mask I made which will hide the 4.3 screen. This way I have all bases covered. Kind of odd but it works. Down the road I'll figure how to make a drop mask with some kind of roll down curtain rod, then I could just use the 4.3 all the time.

One other thing and Mike could check this out. In the service area the ADP area was whited out, not available.

It was available before the firmware. Not having this messed up my idea of applying my old service numbers. The new service calibration numbers were extremely different. When I applied the old they were so different that the picture dissapeared. :)

Not being able to put my original numbers in the ADP area was probably the culprit. So so much for saving your service numbers for those sending in the PJ for the firmware. Just let the Tech area take their time and use their colorfacts for calibrating a perfect 6500k.

Simong,
i just looked up my manual of my dvd player and it explicit states:
RGB via SCART supported: yes.
So i guess its not a normal feature of a scart output. So i hope yours support it...

Greetz Lars

Hi Guys,
I pulled my Dalite screen out to do some measurements and it looks like I pulled it out too far. Its laying on the floor fully extended and locked. I have pulled at it but it doesn't seem to want to unlock. Anyone seen this before or have any tips. I saw a couple people with the model B post this in screens, I am going to try and pull at it a couple more times and if it doesn't go I guess I will just have to wait until Monday when I can call Dalite. Thanks.

Originally posted by guitarman
One other thing and Mike could check this out. In the service area the ADP area was whited out, not available.


Yep, same here.

Tom, thanks for the report on the 120" 4x3 screen.

Glad to hear that SDE is not an issue even at that size... and that standard def. cable/satellite is also very watchable.

Thanks again,

Steve

hikarate
Maybe you can work it loose, I can't keep track what size and type screen did you get? You say on the floor. Maybe if you wall mount it gravity might help.

Thanks Mike,
I have to say I'm glad the firmware came out. I can't wait to view Ultimate Fighting #47 tonight all blown up in 800X600 120" diagonal. Whoa! makes 16.9 look small. :)

Originally posted by guitarman
hikarate
Maybe you can work it loose, I can't keep track what size and type screen did you get? You say on the floor. Maybe if you wall mount it gravity might help.


Thanks Tom, I will give it a try. Its a 84" 4:3 Model C with CSR. I ordered the High Power but I thought the screen was supposed to be grey? Its a white screen, did they send me the right screen?
Thanks again for the reply, sorry for getting off topic.

Originally posted by hikarate
Thanks Tom, I will give it a try. Its a 84" 4:3 Model C with CSR. I ordered the High Power but I thought the screen was supposed to be grey? Its a white screen, did they send me the right screen?
Thanks again for the reply, sorry for getting off topic.

I was just wondering, why in the world would you pull out the screen before you hung it? Anyway, I've noticed that the screen can be hard to retract. You have to tug it and let it go up real quick. It's probably not possible to do it on the floor, hang it and you should be fine. If you call Dalite I would think they might ask you the same question anyway.

Thanks Tom, I will give it a try. Its a 84" 4:3 Model C with CSR. I ordered the High Power but I thought the screen was supposed to be grey? Its a white screen, did they send me the right screen?




no the high power is not gray it is white off white material hikarate.

has anyone seen both projectors (pb6100 and h30) next to one another?

if the specs are halfway believable, the benq 6100 should be much brighter than the optoma h30. is it?

the pjcentral review said that the benq has annoying fan oscillation. does the H30? is it notably quieter?

the benq6100 has a 3x wheel, the H30 a 4x wheel---both improvements over the older projectors, such as the X1.

/iaw


ps: the fact that the h30 is not capable of displaying 4:3 in 800x600 is not awful. the only remaining video input that comes in 4:3 format is NTSC, and NTSC does not have the resolution to fill up the full 800x600. (of course, with more pixels, one might get more brightness.)

ivo welch this is from a guy (mike ) who sells pj's and there is no comparison


Re: factory calibration - Colors are right on, some slight adjustment of white and black levels needed to adjust for my particular room. Gamma (to the naked eye) appears very good as well. In addition to the elimination of rainbows I mentioned earlier, the picture is noticeably better than the BenQ 6100 I have here next to it.


cheers

Originally posted by Larsage
Simong,
i just looked up my manual of my dvd player and it explicit states:
RGB via SCART enabled: yes.
So i guess its not a normal feature of a scart output. So i hope yours support it...

Greetz Lars

I downloaded and installed a firmwar update for the Cybehome player and "Voila".....the RGB SCART option appeared in the system menu - Switched this on and now works through the SCART>RGB adapter :)

That just leaves my Philips DVD recorder - Slightly diff prob though as I at least get an image but it's so unstable that it's unwatchable. I'll see if Philips released a forware update.

Getting there slowly - Watched some of Nemo & LoTR:2T last night - Amazing image.

By the way, for those in UK I may have found a cheap (£7) ceiling mount for the optoma that would attach using the 1/4" tripod hole. Once I'm happy with it I'll upload a couple of photos ;)

Originally posted by ivo welch
has anyone seen both projectors (pb6100 and h30) next to one another?

if the specs are halfway believable, the benq 6100 should be much brighter than the optoma h30. is it?

the pjcentral review said that the benq has annoying fan oscillation. does the H30? is it notably quieter?

the benq6100 has a 3x wheel, the H30 a 4x wheel---both improvements over the older projectors, such as the X1.

/iaw


ps: the fact that the h30 is not capable of displaying 4:3 in 800x600 is not awful. the only remaining video input that comes in 4:3 format is NTSC, and NTSC does not have the resolution to fill up the full 800x600. (of course, with more pixels, one might get more brightness.)


I'm getting so tired of people with the complete misunderstanding of how the lumens ratings work, they must not do any research or read any post. Anyway, companies need to come out with a better rating system. The 800 average lumens in video mode of the H30 is much brighter than the lumens of the Benq when in video mode. You are comparing a 6 segment color wheel to a 4 segment, there is really no comparison. The Benq is made for presentations, and the H30 for home theater.

Totally argree rsmith4321 especially the brightness part. Brighness seems to be a quality of the whole Optoma HT line. But not too bright.

Alert!
Any of you tweakers out there that know how to use the service menu. A list of things to stay away from =

Colorwheel
Factory Reset
ADP - black, contrast, majenta calabration.

That new one to the list can be nasty. They look tempting but there's nothing in a sub level to these items, if you hit one the PJ goes into a self program mode and alters the above ADP factory numbers, the sub gains and Bias. So word of caution there, don't do it. :)

I had a scary experience with my H30 last night. I turned on the projector and waited for the Optoma logo to show up. There was nothing. I didn't panic quite yet, thinking that maybe this was one of those times where the color wheel takes longer than normal to start up. I waited patiently a bit longer. Finally! The Optoma logo pops onto the screen -- but it's upside down and the Optoma swoosh is GREEN instead of red!!

Now I'm starting to feel a bit of panic. While I'm pondering the situation, the projector finds my s-video signal and a picture starts displaying. It's also upside down and shifted off the top of my 16:9 screen. Plus, the colors are way off. It looks like the red is completely missing. Now I start to seriously worry. I pulled up the menu system to see if something had been reset, but the settings looked normal, except for being displayed upside down. The image orientation is still set to ceiling front projection, but clearly isn't displaying that way. I cycled through the other orientations, but they didn't affect the display at all.

I decided to power down the H30 and try again after 10 minutes or so. In the meantime, I was trying to remember where I put my original packaging, because I was certain I'd be sending my beloved projector back for service. However, when I fired it back up, everything worked fine.

Whew! What a relief, but very odd! Has anybody else had this happen to them?

Veggieguy,

The same thing happened to us once when we had the digital cable box turned on before the projector was turned on. As long as we have the projector fired up first before we turn on the cable box, dvd player or vcr, we don't have that problem.

"digital cable box turned on before the projector was turned on."

That's one of the do's & don'ts. Always turn on the projector before turning on any signal devices.

Originally posted by guitarman
That's one of the do's & don'ts. Always turn on the projector before turning on any signal devices.

Hmmm... this may happen to me quite a lot then, because my s-video signal is from my Tivo. Tivos are always on, always sending an output signal, unless you shut it down to move the unit. It's really not a choice for me to turn the projector on before it receives a signal, because it's always receiving a signal.

If the projector requires this, that seems like a bad design flaw to me. During the projector startup, it shouldn't be looking for a signal yet, and if you can believe what you see on screen, it doesn't seem to be. The search for a signal doesn't begin visually until the warmup period is over.

Maybe I need to call Optoma support about this one, or maybe Wing can clear this up on his weekly pass through this thread.

It's in the manual under do/dont's. I always make sure I do this, never a problem.

tom what is your gamma set on now after the firmware ?

I agree, my dvr cable box is always on, I haven't had a problem with any other PJ or TV, if the Optoma really does require no signal, that would be a serious design flaw that doesn't exist in other devices no matter how cheap they are. So why would the Optoma be different?

Originally posted by guitarman
It's in the manual under do/dont's. I always make sure I do this, never a problem.

My manual does not list this in the Dos and Don'ts section. I did find one side note in the section entitled "Powering On/Off the Projector" that says, "Note: Turn on the projector first and then the signal sources." So it's in there, but certainly isn't given any weight of importance.

Still, this seems like a bad limitation for a home theater projector considering the variety of "always on" devices in use today. All DVRs function this way, as do many sattelite and cable boxes. I would think many HTPC setups would have an always on signal as well. I can't imagine how a signal being present would interfere with the H30's warmup and initialization. The odd startup behavior has only happened to me once over the last month or so, even though it's had a Tivo signal pumped into it the whole time.

The only immediate choice for me to prevent any signal from reaching the projector before it's warmup period is over would be to unplug the s-video cable from the projector every time I turn it off. I'm not about to do that. I suppose I could invest in an s-video switch of some kind and leave one of the switch inputs open, so that I could switch to a non-signal when the projector is off. What a hack, though.

Wing, could you shed some light on this situation for us on your next pass through here?

Tom ,

--- I think the White and Black self-adjustment in the service menu can be used with the proper IRE sources [ 100 ire for white / 0 ire for black ] . I am not suggesting that everyone run and do it but I do not see the harm as long as it functions as it should [ this should also allow you to calibrate from your actual source ] . Odds are this tool never needs to be used by the end-user but it is good to know it is there ;) . *** NOTE : Please do not try this adjustment if you are uncertain of what you are doing and I suggest service menu adjustments stay limited to the "PICTURE" control section . ***

_________________________

No Input Signal at Start-Up :

-- I agree it is an odd feature but I think most people having start-up issues will find this is the cause . So until there is a firmware update that changes things [if at all possible] we will all have to deal with it best we can ;) .

-- My comcast HD cable box is always sending a signal but since I also have an HTPC and Xbox connected it is not a problem to make certain the Cable box is not the input signal at start-up [ with use of a VGA Switch-box ] . Actually now that I think about it a 4-way switch with 3 active sources would allow an open selection so there would be No signal at all going to the H30 [ sounds like my plan until we have a possible fix ;) ] .

_______________________

------- Jason

My manual lists the following on Page 2 under "Precautions":

Warning - Turn on the projector first and then select the signal source

By contrast, the BenQ 6100 manual only mentions it as part of the sequence of steps for start up.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
My manual lists the following on Page 2 under "Precautions":

Warning - Turn on the projector first and then select the signal source

By contrast, the BenQ 6100 manual only mentions it as part of the sequence of steps for start up.


Well I think it would be pretty hard to select the signal source before turning it on.

None of these manuals are noted for their English composition. I think they mean "turn on the signal source" when they say "select the signal source". Otherwise, as you noted, what would be the point of the warning.

Don't buck the manual, lol

Hey Joe, after the firmware they calibrated in gamma 2. Different from before which was an excellent calibration in cinnema with gamma 1.

Jason, If they test the blackness/Contrast/Majenta programs they may end up with what I saw. A totally luminess electric blue with not many other colors. It took me half hour balancing numbers. My lastest ADP factory numbers were lost. I hit that Blackness menu and it went into program, screen freaked out and #s were lost.

Yeah I'd say if you don't have colorfacts or that smart thing don't even think about messing with anything but the Picture menu. Like if you want to adjust green, do it in the service picture area because it effects every signal input. But that's it.

The good news, in the end I was able to get the colors more to my liking and what thery were like before the Firmware.

I'm a happy camper with the new Firmware. I got both my screens set up at the same time. I can flip screens and never move my projector. I think they call this having your cake and eating too. :)

Hey Joe, after the firmware they calibrated in gamma 2. Different
from before which was an excellent calibration in cinnema with gamma 1.





that sounds great now if they only can get the firm ware here to Toronto :( and tom so you are not using a high power i gather :confused:


so who won last night :D

Not yet, I still hv these other two screens lying around.

Tito lost bad, it was a total stand up fight and Chuck wailed on him to a stoppage. The fight on Direct TV looked pretty good. Not as good as the HT1000 for Direct TV, but very watchable. DTV has an artifact that dithers around Logo's with the HT1000 these were all but gone. On the H30 you can see the activity. Very similar to what happens with my Toshiba RPTV. You can still enjoy the TV because hey it's TV. Higher quality sources look excellent at 120". I was so not use to such a tremendous screen that I had to push back to the wall. ;)

Hey Joe quit tyring to spend my money, I'll get to the High Power ;)

I spent a little bit, but not on a screen this week. I snagged one of those HK7200's at $749 at Frys. Not bad for a Flagship receiver that started out last year at $1799.00.

spent a little bit, but not on a screen this week. I snagged one of those HK7200's at $749 at Frys. Not bad for a Flagship receiver that started out last year at $1799.00



wow nice price tom shoot i think i better hook up threw you and pic up my screen because down here the prices are a little inflated ,but i know how you feel about spending money i must of dropped on stuff here and there 16000$ and that was including a engagement ring for the future wife ;) , hay she is worth it a women who gets into the ht stuff and electronics like me , well can not that get away and plus now she is the tek wiz at her office even guys ask her for advice on stuff :)

ps i hate tito and i am glad he lost because i can't stand his attitude and shamrock back then should of done more damage on his a$$$$$ :)

Originally posted by guitarman
The good news, in the end I was able to get the colors more to my liking and what thery were like before the Firmware.

I'm a happy camper with the new Firmware. I got both my screens set up at the same time. I can flip screens and never move my projector. I think they call this having your cake and eating too. :)
Hey Tom-

Glad you are getting to have that cake and eat it too. No one deserves that more than you :) I guess Mike deserves it as well!

Congrats and enjoy it! Cheers!

Concerning my dalite screen being locked:
Had to stand on the bed and have my fiance pull at the screen to get it to roll back up. Reason I had it pulled out was to do measurements. So, thanks Tom for the suggestion, Gravity helped and that worked!
And to that guy who thought it was stupid for me to pull the screen out on the floor I have one thing to say to you:
You are right.

Tom ,
--- But did you have the proper test signal fed into the H30 when you tried the Auto calibrate features ?
-- I did it with the Black and White auto-calibration [ I knew better than to mess with Color , actually I was scared to hit that one ;) ] and it worked great . Now I am dialed to exactly what my HTPC sends out at 100 IRE and 0 IRE :) . Certainly not a required calibration but my image improved by using it :) .

------- Jason

hikarate, glad you got the fix.

Hey, you ever hear the term "mixer"? ;)

Jason, I had a component signal going and just wanted to take a look behind the Black calibration door. I thought there would be set of numbers not a total PJ freakout. :)

I'm ok now, I can get proper black & whites with Avia. As far as a 6500k grayscale. I'm lucky I have a RPTV that's calibrated with colorfacts. What I did way have both displays going at the same time with the same scene from The Two Towers (Kings Decision). Comparing and changing many numbers I finally found a match.

"sends out at 100 IRE and 0 IRE "

So your thinking is run a 0 IRE Avia pattern and hit auto cal black. Then 100 IRE and auto cal white. I'll hv to check with Wing on the auto cal to be sure. Infact I have to get back down there and use their equipment. I'd like the computer/colorfacts to tell me I flatlined 6500k not my eyes.

Waiting for my H30 to arrive is tortuous. :(

I might as well buy cables, etc and get ready for it. Since my source is 40ft away from H30, I think I better use RG6 component cables. On the H30 end, it comes with HD15 to 3x(female RCA). On my HTPC end, I need a similar adapter. Where can I buy one? Does Optoma sell it? Perhaps I should the one Infocus offers. Infocus adapter (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DetailPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&pc=SP-VESA-ADPT&tab=desc&clist=017080322b69:017080322b6b&ret=Accessories-Cables&pls5catname=Accessories-Cables)

HD15 to male RCA are common (which are basically breakout cables), but that simply adds cost and connector loss. BTW, is there a reason to go with expensive breakout cables (>$100 that I found) instead of the arrangement I am thinking?

tom,
hope the icing tastes as good !!!!
are you happy with the pq calibration post -firmware or will it still need some tweaking assuming the H30 is given it's proper time on the tech's desk?
here's a hard one..if one screen( 16x9 vs 4x3 )were to be chosen which would you go for ? assume the firmware was applied.mostly dvd and hd from directtv is to be viewed in this room. and alot of music videos.
will the 120 " 4x3 be more versatile?
thanks again.
jay

I like the esthetic's of a 16.9 screen But! If you're like me and have allot of 4.3 music video's, classic movies and enjoy sports than a 4.3 screen makes some serious sense, so toss out the esthetic's.

i might just think about two timing it like you are doing . i'm pleasantly surprised to see what dalites cost. gonna have to go back to your thread about how you went about doing it. but going 4.3 sounds good.
again, is the pq fresh from firmware upgrade OK ? if not, can you post your settings .maybe you did so already, may just have missed it .
jay

Tom ,
--- Yeah it would be interesting to hear how they use the Auto-Calibration features [ I hope I am doing it correctly since it made for a nice image ;) ] .
____________________________

clamrade ,
--- You need a special adapter for HTPC component output [ if that is the way you wish to go ] , a standard VGA to Component adapter/cable will not work . If you are using a Radeon then you need the ATi adapter [ these can be built as a DIY project - look in the HTPC forum ] .
--- I do not like the Component output from HTPC as much as true RGB(vga) but that is just my opinion [ others have said they cannot tell the difference ] .

____________________
----------- Jason

"is the pq fresh from firmware upgrade OK"

The calibration will still be standard. Optoma uses systems to calibrate to 6500k. Mine didn't get calibrated becuase I rushed it out the door.

Jason,

Do you use Dscaler in your HTPC...? I am not exactly sure what all this product does, but I have heard it mentioned around the HTPC crowd.

I am considering running all of my outputs through the iScan HD before they go to the projector..., just wondering if Dscaler performs the same functions as would be done in the iScan or if it does something else....

Steve

Hello

I´m thinking to buy an themescene H30, but i see it in a shop and i have a technical question…

I see an 3.5 m screen with no zoom, at a watching distance of 6 metres,,, and all is ok alls looks great, but if I go to a 4 metres view distance I see an squares and I have this doubt… if this squares is because the resolution is 800*600 if y set the resolution to 1280*1024 this squares disappear? Or it will be equal? I don’t see in the setup menu any option to change the resolution… how it can be changed?

Thanx

Steve ,
--- Dscaler is software for use when sending video signals through the HTPC for scaling/De-interlacing . It does basically do the same function as an Iscan . I cannot comment on the Iscan HD as I have never used one but I can tell you that Dscaler with a good capture card functions very well . You might want to look into the Holo3D Capture Card card if you would like to use an HTPC [ it is expensive but then it is also the best available and I do not think it is any more $$$ than the Iscan HD ] .
-------- Jason

colecconsolas ,
--- You should not view a screen that large from 4m(12') . Minimum view distance with a good digital projector should be 1.5x the screen width [ some like viewing a little closer but most like viewing a little farther away than 1.5x ] . Even on a higher resolution digital projector you would see Screen Door [ the squares you see ] on a screen that large from such a close view distance [ the view distance at which you see squares is not much farther away than the width of the image - this is too close ] .
-- This is normal with digital projection , only CRT projection offers a totally smooth image with no squares or rainbows or vertical banding or .... well you get the idea ;) .

--- The H30 is 800x600 native and this cannot be changed but you can send the H30 resolutions up to 1280x1024 and it will scale as needed . The squares will not be gone with a higher resolution signal [ the size of the DMD panel mirrors cannot be changed ] .

-------- Jason

Do someone have any good tweaking if you use scart - vga cabel.

Yesterday i saw Finding nemo and the picture is really good but i think it saw more pixels with this then with x1.

Is there something i can do with tweaking?

I do not have progressive dvd, will the pixelwork scaler and deinterlacer work when you use scart - vga (the adapter)

Is there any thread with only tweaking information?

Thanks for now

Originally posted by draags
Do someone have any good tweaking if you use scart - vga cabel.
Yesterday i saw Finding nemo and the picture is really good but i think it saw more pixels with this then with x1.

I do use RGB scart as well and I do not see any screendoor effect at all. The picture is 100% smooth ..

Regards,

Ronald

Somebody have some good tweaking for h30 to test.

What is the best setup?

Hey, you ever hear the term "mixer"?


tom ih yehhhh i heard the term mixer ;)


man i saw it yesturday a Friend taped it and it was not that pretty ,but i could of bean much worse :)

Originally posted by guitarman
Alert!
Any of you tweakers out there that know how to use the service menu. A list of things to stay away from =

Colorwheel
Factory Reset
ADP - black, contrast, majenta calabration.

That new one to the list can be nasty. They look tempting but there's nothing in a sub level to these items, if you hit one the PJ goes into a self program mode and alters the above ADP factory numbers, the sub gains and Bias. So word of caution there, don't do it. :)

Just caught up on this. Since we didn't know how to get into the service menu when I last had the projector, what section is the new one to stay away from? I don't plan on doing anything with it, but just wanted to know which section you guys were talking about.

Other than adjusting black and white level and reducing sharpness a little, I haven't seen anything else that needed adjustment since they did the calibration. Gamma looks good at about 2.5 and all the colors are right on.

It's in the ADP area, wierd though sometimes ADP is whited out sometimes not. Anyway don't even think of touching it, especially with a projector where Optoma used their calibration equipment. The only reason I checked mine is they didn't hv time to calibrate the projector after the firmware.

Thanks Tom. I wasn't planning on using it, but I was wondering why you mentioned ADP since the last time I looked it was whited out.

If you talk to Wing today, see what the latest is on the lens mask.

Could a couple of users post ther factory user settings for Film & Video. I noticed when I got my projector back that it was changed and preset to sharpness at 50 and white peak at 0
Before the factory defaults were Shaprness at 28 and white peak 6.
But give me the Contrast and other Items also pls. I think on video my factory contrast was 5 and color at 3. Thx just want to see if start up factory numbers are set the same for all the projectors.

I can give you all of mine except Brightness and Contrast which I didn't save. Sharpness was set to 50 on mine as well but I've taken it down a few notches since I didn't like the way it looked on the Avia sharpness pattern.

28 produced a clear sharp image of Avia for mine. Eliminating the Ghost and showing sharp.
You could write down your calibrated numbers for that input, then to find out what the factory setup was hit reset for current signal only.
thx

Jason,
Nothing wrong with your concept on auto cal. I was told that yes you run the Aiva window patterns for white & black but it's good you didn't do color as Avia's Majenta isn't as good as factorys equipment for producing Majenta. No need for any body to mess with these though. But you're ok in what you did.

Tom ,
--- Thank you for the confirmation :) .

--- I really like the resulting image and figured it had to be the correct way of doing it [ but then you just never know ;) ] .

--- So the Colorfacts Magenta should be ok to use with the Auto-Calibration [ since that sounds to be what they use ] ?

------ Jason

Guys

Any thoughts on this cheap mount?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=387668

I will post the same thing here for those that consider any of the DIY type mounts :

Be sure to use a Safety Cable with any non-factory type mount [ anything that is not designed for Projector use ] !!!

--- Better to be safe then sorry ;) .

---- Jason

I wouldn't see any problems with it. 4Kg is almost twice the weight of the H30. In your primary thread hikarate gave it a thumbs up and Jason made the good point of "don't forget the safety cable". I'd run with that...

Cheers!

On using a DIY mount- Is there any concern with a screw going to far into that tripod mounting hole? I know there was discussion regarding the X1 DIY mounts that you couldn't go in more than a 1/4 inch into the projector or something like that without risking damaging the internals....

I think 1/4 inch is about as far in as you would want to go with the 1/4-20 mount hole [ it does seem to have a closed end and you would not want to go right through it ] . I am pretty certain that 1/2 inch would be too much [ or at least really close to the limit of the threads ] .

-- For the three smaller 3mm machine mount holes I think 1/4 inch max would apply as well .

------ Jason

I'm starting to wonder if the 4805 will be out before they start shipping the H30 again. If it comes out for around the same price at the same time, I know which one I'm getting. Optoma better hurry up and get their PJ's to the stores.

rsmith4321 ,
-- Hey , I have a fully calibrated H30 that I will sell you for the very low msrp of the 4805 [ heck , I will even throw in the ceiling mount and 50' VGA cable ] ........



hehe - ;)
------ Jason

"So the Colorfacts Magenta should be ok to use with the Auto-Calibration [ since that sounds to be what they use ] ?:

No they use something else. I just got back from the Factory and Wing calibrated the projector with colorfacts. Final result gorgeous, very CRT like contrast/blacks. He was saying the final gamma level readout 2 point something is very close to CRT levels.

The ADP are is for progressive signals, it's whited out on others. He said again the the black and white are just usefull and not to do Magenta. He did show me what happens when using Avia Magenta and how it pushes the number way to strong. Good new in the future for you tweakers. They're planning a better auto-cal grade for color. So is you know your stuff, you can use the new auto-cal black/white/majenta (color) to match up with your different electronic devices. Because each DVD player and setup re cables is different. So you can future tune per each item, be it DVD or HTPC.

I learned something about why the H30 has such an amazing picture. It's the sequence of technology in the many color calibration orders the Optoma projectors have. Starting with the service settings and ADP and going by steps to the final User and Advanced user settings.

Pretty nice of Wing to take some time out to show the Theater room where he does calibrations. They have a huge screen there 116" wide Dalite 1.5 gain. I was sitting first row and still couldn't see a SD. Amazing even though this is SVGA it show no SD like HD2 res projectors. :)

They have some really sweet DLP RPTV's in another showroom. A 50" and a 65". Very nice looking TV's but Wing admits the H30 will still look better. But for space and daylight viewing those RPTV's are nice.


About the H30's shipping, I hear they're shipping and getting sold out fast. Shipping in Europe and shipping here in the US.

No they use something else. I just got back from the Factory and Wing calibrated the projector with colorfacts. Final result gorgeous, very CRT like contrast/blacks. He was saying the final gamma level readout 2 point something is very close to CRT levels.

I agree. My H30 seems to look better than it did before I sent it in. Of course, it was gone so long I might have forgotten how good it looked. ;)

Gamma for CRTs is usually around 2.2, with 2.5 being on the high end. I've been told that DLPs look better at 2.5 and that seems to be about where mine is.

Tom, I assume they calibrate on the Normal setting. Is that the case?

tom can you do me a favor tell wing to get the firmware and the calibration setting to will xing here in Toronto so i can get my dam h30 done ;) ,seriously and the gamma 2 or 2.5 is perfect for dlp because of the black levels are so good

and tom there rear pj tv's are all 720p and they are nice but they have a new tv coming out and it will be a beautiful set :D


because tom i have my rma paper ready to ship out any time now

:)

Seemed that way before but today Wing made it a point to calibrate in Cinema and Film with 0 white peaking color temp 2 and gamma 1. I assume that's the way he did your PJ also.

It's nice to see the computer reading out values, knowing you're at 6500k. The CIE chart read out great with green and red being dead on. I always knew the H30 handled Reds' and Greens very well. Computer verified, lol

tom can you do me a favor tell wing to get the firmware and the calibration setting to will xing here in Toronto so i can get my dam h30 done ,seriously and the gamma 2 or 2.5 is perfect for dlp because of the black levels are so good

and tom there rear pj tv's are all 720p and they are nice but they have a new tv coming out and it will be a beautiful set


because tom i have my rma paper ready to ship out any time now



so tom what do you say there are alot of people down here that have the h30 ;)

Did he show you the lens mask prototype?

Didnt' talk about the lens this time but last time he said they fine tuned it and it s/b out anytime now.

I would think the Optoma Tech in Canada should hv got the disc from Taiwan.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
rsmith4321 ,
-- Hey , I have a fully calibrated H30 that I will sell you for the very low msrp of the 4805 [ heck , I will even throw in the ceiling mount and 50' VGA cable ] ........



hehe - ;)
------ Jason

I know you were trying to make a joke but I don't get it. I said if the 4805 is near the price of the H30 that's the one I would get. I never suggested I would pay a lot for a H30, it's only a 800x600 dlp, they are usually under $1000, but I do think this one is worth the $1239 I paid. Optoma better just hope infocus doesn't get it out for under $1400. They have an advantage of being the only one out currently, but they can't seem to get them into stores. It's just starting to get annoying.

Another New H30 owner ,
I want to thank all you guys.
Was tough ... between ht1000 & h30.
Went for the bang for the buck ...h30.

I put my order in today.What firmware should that come with c04 / c05 ?
I'm not even sure one how long a wait before it arives .
I figured I had better put in my order ..... high demand = long wait.
The lens mask is that included or will it cost extra ?

Still have work to do in my basement while I'm waiting for delivery.
Wanted to have the projector before closing everything up.

Will order the panavision mount maybe try htpc for dvd (thanks Jason).
Will figure out screen later and distance later . (thanks Veggieguy)
Have saved many tips from Tom on setup etc (Thanks Tom).

Now the waiting starts.
Yahoo!
KenW


otry with my

Alright! Ken they're shipping a 1,000 a month lately so hope you're first on the list.

Wait till you check this baby out, nothing in this price range can or is going to touch it.

Hehe, I watching one of my Survivor DVDs, 120" diagonal and unbelievable.

Here is a pic I promised of the high def stuff.
shot on flat white wall..
Notice 6ft person on left heheh..
Terminator 2 whv

another pic

fire from terminator 2