I'm not convinced the buzzing is mechanical at all (and yes, I am the one who got a second unit, only to hear it buzz). This is a very electrical problem, IMHO. (And yes, at this point, I only have an opinion, I realize this).

I sent the first one back to Optoma yesterday, and they are going to check it out once they get it in (should be the end of this week). The other (2nd) unit is still mounted in my room.

To answer some other questions: 1) the buzzing occurred for me in both ceiling mounted and table-mounted configurations, no difference at all. 2) the buzzing was there whether or not the source cable was connected (i.e. only power plugged in).

I know Tom isn't convinced, but I swear I can hear the buzzing of the wheel in the background, behind the electrical buzz. They are two separate and distinct sounds. The fan is another sound altogether as well.

I believe Fleaman is right about the sound, it is WAY out of spec (several times as noisy as it should be). I don't have a sound-meter (probably should get one for Avia), but I have a pretty good idea of what other DLP projectors sound like from my comparisons, and this is just TOO noisy. I'm eagerly awaiting Flea's comparison with his boss's unit. :)

Moving 16.9 is still in the making. Someone with the c04 firmware also had a green bar lock up.

I had the buzzing with the PJ ceiling mounted.

I received my H30 "A" unit a few weeks ago and have over 100 hours on it now. No buzzing (never had it). I did have an issue w/ an orange power light "no start up". That seems to be far and few between now. I'm pretty pleased to this point.

I used a Bose speaker mount for $29 to attach it to my ceiling. I just had to buy a 1/4-20 screw and sub for the one that came w/ the Bose.

Don

Originally posted by fleaman
hikarate--

My boss's projectors settings have not been touched. His H30 (old firmware) out of the box looked pretty good and he hasn't touched ANY of the settings. So, as an example, all his Advanced adj will be 0. I already know what my H30 looks like with those settings at their default of zero...terrible! I would also conclude that putting my settings on his projector would make it look awful also (example; -21 red bright, -14 blue bright, -1 green contrast, etc.). Fleaman

That makes sense, no point in comparing them at the same settings then. I wonder if you have different settings under the service menu? I agree with Ryan that it does sound weird that these PJs perform so differently at the same settings. You would think they would look the same when set to the same settings, not totally different. Oh well, that makes your comparison as far as performance a lot tougher, but at least you should have a clear test for whether your PJ buzzes over there or not. But not knowing if its the power supply or color wheel makes that test useless too if it does end up buzzing.

Thanks for your settings though, gives me an idea of how far I may have to tweak this to get improvments.

Well I just took some db measurements from my H30 .

-- I get from 60 to 64 db right at the H30 [ zero distance from any vent location on the unit ] . Now I don't know if my H30 is at factory spec. either but it is pretty quiet IMO .

-- This might help some of you wanting to take readings to see if your PJ is louder than it should be as I have never had any unusual noises from this H30 and the fans are very quiet . My H30 has never been on for more than about 4 hours during a single period of use [ watched LOTR:Two Towers Extended Edition ] .


------------ Jason

Just barely read over 60db is what I got with my Radio Shack Sound meter. Which starts at 60db. Robert said move 4ft away, maybe that's the standard the industry uses when calculating consumer noise levels.

I do know if I had the meter 1 inch away from my LT150 the needle would be off the charts. :)

Wing is the Product Engineering Manager, he said the buzz is the Color Wheel bearing and that it would quiet down.

So far I'm the only one who's run the projector for a long time and had the buzzing go away. Any other users that find the same result should post up about it. thx

Factory calibration cannot account for your sources. At best it can guarantee that a DVI input is good to go - but even PC/Video DVI have different ideas about white/black levels and still need calibration. Even digital projectors have analog lamps - so calibrating at the factory at 0 hrs does nothing for the lamp burning and settling in over the next 100 hrs.

DaGamePimp was using my old 50' VGA generic cable - and just the cable itself was enough to cast his Optoma red.

Best you can DIY is with AVIA/THX/DVE adjustment test patterns, short of hiring an ISF tech or renting ColorFacts at 20% your projector price.

To adjust for blacks - get up close to the screen and tweak brightness until AVIAs black field just stops dithering. Then absolute black will be OK - of course near black will still dither. But until you can get an HD2+ chip with the dark forest green color wheel - that problem will not go away. Infocus has the model just for you - the SP7205 at $8999 - ;-).

That's it we need to swap out the old color wheel to a seven color model.

Maybe just maybe Optoma will come out with an H77. Maybe just maybe they'll let me borrow one for a few months. Right buddy!

Not you Kras, the other guy listening.

tom i here late summer and it will have the new chip ;) and i might just end up picking one up my self :)

Joe, you're going through the same trip I did. Just happy to get another shiney new projector. You just got the 56a.

Originally posted by C4Sip
finally , after waiting a month or more because of my cousin the electrician's ficklemindedness i finally i got to see this thing in action, complete with a dalite hp screen. dvd is marvelous !!!!!
but has any of you have a green picture on ota signals? i have a tosh dst 3000 (or something like that) and i switch it out with dvd on an anthem avm 20 processor. dvd is great but hd is GREEN!!! went dirct from tosh box to h30 but still the same. unplugged everything, waited for h30 to cycle through before turning on sources but still the same. also have that buzz that is intermittent after 2 hours being on. but the buzz is there during the 2 hours...
experts, got any pointers?

Do you run you're DVD player in progressive? Total green could be the RGB connection is mixed up, check the wires. The buzz should go away after some use. Keep watching DVD's.

krasmuzik--
I think most know that factory calibration should get you into the ballpark right out of the box. Some people will be luckier than others and the reds will change after the bulb burns in a little, but there are some (or many) H30's out there that are way off! My H30 had a red push and overall color brightness wack job that nothing other than drastic calibration measures would fix (see my previous #'s).

I tried Interlaced, progressive, S-video on both my Panny XP30 and a Toshiba DVD player that I don't use anymore.
And I tried short cables. All of the above tests made some nominal changes in the calibration...maybe would be 1 point at the most (in my advanced settings).

But thanks for the tips on adjusting blacks and info's about near black, that was very helpful. At least now I know near black dithering is a fact of life that could be reduced if you want to pay the bucks. But I already mentioned my blacks are pretty smooth now...seems to be what I would consider normal, but I haven't really looked for this effect in other projectors before.

Db readings with a Rat-Shack meter—
Those factory specs were probably done in an anechoic chamber. Doing readings at home, even a 'quite' home, will still be higher than factor specs due to the residual background noise (that most can't even hear) a Rat-shack meter will p/u.

Fleaman

Originally posted by guitarman
Maybe just maybe Optoma will come out with an H77. Maybe just maybe they'll let me borrow one for a few months.

How about an H31 with the same chip as the 4805 in the meantime? :D

Joe, you're going through the same trip I did. Just happy to get another shiney new projector. You just got the 56a.



tom i love my h56a ;) but if i can get a good deal on the new 77 coming out than my dedicated ht will be set ;)

Hopefully, they'll have an H77 to check out at CEDIA in September.

Originally posted by fleaman


Db readings with a Rat-Shack meter—
Those factory specs were probably done in an anechoic chamber. Doing readings at home, even a 'quite' home, will still be higher than factor specs due to the residual background noise (that most can't even hear) a Rat-shack meter will p/u.

Fleaman


---- Well yes but if we are all doing the readings in a Home then levels should be fairly consistent ;) .


---------- Jason

tom,
no, i dont run progressive on my panny rp 91. the dvd pic is good, just when i switch the input from component dvd to tosh HD box do i get the green hue on HD feed or sd feed . in short , its the hd box thats giving me a green hue but all the colors are there. checked the wirestoo.
thanks .
jay

Originally posted by MikeSRC
How about an H31 with the same chip as the 4805 in the meantime? :D



---- Ooooh , I like that idea but at what cost ...
---- And an even better idea would be to allow current H30 owners a 50% trade-up value on the 'H31' :D .


-------- Jason

Works for me Jason. ;)

Kras-

Good tips on the calibration, thanks for that.

Do you come over here occasionally to get away from the slathering dogs waiting for their PJ's in the 4805 thread? :) Ya well it was that way here before shipments broke loose 2 weeks ago as well. hehehehe. They'll get theirs soon enough and then it will be on to new gripes :D

Originally posted by C4Sip
tom,
no, i dont run progressive on my panny rp 91. the dvd pic is good, just when i switch the input from component dvd to tosh HD box do i get the green hue on HD feed or sd feed . in short , its the hd box thats giving me a green hue but all the colors are there. checked the wirestoo.
thanks .
jay

Ok then you have a green push with just the progressive signal. You can fix it with the advanced picture menu.

They'll all be at zero.
Start with lowering the green contrast until the green hue is gone. Then cut what ever that number is in half and add that cut amount to the Red & blue.

Example,
You had to lower red by 10
Make it just 5
Add plus 5 to each of blue and red

You may also want to do the RGB-brightness in a similar manner.
Go over to projector centrals review of the H30. They had to do a similar adjusment for progressive also.
Let us know how it turns out.

tom,
did you at one time recommennd that i do not use progressive on the panny rp91 coz the pixelworks does better? just run on interlaced?
thanks

Yeah, I was just trying to figure which signal type showed green.

I'd imagine if you ran the RP91 in progressive you'll see the same green. How's it going on the adjustment?

Well, I just wanted to give an update as a fellow H30 owner who has been lingering in the background since receiving the PJ in early April.

The unit has performed flawlessly. I have not experienced any of the problems (noise, orange light, etc.) with the unit. I do have one of the PJ's with the older firmware, and have been waiting to put some hours on to see if any of the other problems would appear before sending the unit back to get the upgrade. Now my biggest concern is when I can ship the PJ out when it will have minimum impact on our viewing!

I was watching the Nascar race on Sunday on Directv (S-Video) when a friend stopped by. He had just placed an order for a $2300 rear projection TV. He watched about a hour of the race, and burrowed my phone to call the TV dealer to cancel his order. His H30 order has been placed.... another believer!

If you're happy I'd only get the firmware if you're planning on using a 4.3 screen. Otherwise stand pat and use a DVD player that will cover non-anamorphic material.

Tom, I am using a 4.3 screen so I do want the upgrade. Just hate to part with the PJ.

BTW, thanks very much for taking the time to share what you have learned! I have learned so much from you guys.

Originally posted by krasmuzik
Factory calibration cannot account for your sources. At best it can guarantee that a DVI input is good to go - but even PC/Video DVI have different ideas about white/black levels and still need calibration. Even digital projectors have analog lamps - so calibrating at the factory at 0 hrs does nothing for the lamp burning and settling in over the next 100 hrs.

DaGamePimp was using my old 50' VGA generic cable - and just the cable itself was enough to cast his Optoma red.

Best you can DIY is with AVIA/THX/DVE adjustment test patterns, short of hiring an ISF tech or renting ColorFacts at 20% your projector price.

To adjust for blacks - get up close to the screen and tweak brightness until AVIAs black field just stops dithering. Then absolute black will be OK - of course near black will still dither. But until you can get an HD2+ chip with the dark forest green color wheel - that problem will not go away. Infocus has the model just for you - the SP7205 at $8999 - ;-).

You don't get the point, we know sources are different. But two PJ hooked up to the same source with the same service menu settings will give wildly different pictures. This doesn't make sense. And it's far more than lamp difference.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
Well I just took some db measurements from my H30 .

-- I get from 60 to 64 db right at the H30 [ zero distance from any vent location on the unit ] . Now I don't know if my H30 is at factory spec. either but it is pretty quiet IMO .

-- This might help some of you wanting to take readings to see if your PJ is louder than it should be as I have never had any unusual noises from this H30 and the fans are very quiet . My H30 has never been on for more than about 4 hours during a single period of use [ watched LOTR:Two Towers Extended Edition ] .


------------ Jason

That sounds like exactly the same db someone mentioned that said they had the buzzing problem, and used the db to prove they had a real problem. Hmm, makes you wonder. I know mine buzzed a little, but I just ignored it, it didn't seem bad way overhead.

Originally posted by guitarman
Yeah, I was just trying to figure which signal type showed green.

I'd imagine if you ran the RP91 in progressive you'll see the same green. How's it going on the adjustment?

so i surmise that the tosh box is outputting progressive? yes i do get green when the rp 91 is on progressive.
will follow the recom calibs as soon as i get out of these people's mouths:D

Originally posted by dhubley
Tom, I am using a 4.3 screen so I do want the upgrade. Just hate to part with the PJ.

BTW, thanks very much for taking the time to share what you have learned! I have learned so much from you guys.

4.3 screen, very good. A word to the wise. When you send it in with the RMA put in a note to pls make sure it's calibrated well for Progressive and Interlaced signals. They'll have to reset the projector before they start the firmware.

Originally posted by C4Sip
so i surmise that the tosh box is outputting progressive? yes i do get green when the rp 91 is on progressive.
will follow the recom calibs as soon as i get out of these people's mouths:D

Here's what PC did with their H30 that had green bias.

"On our test unit, we boosted red and blue contrast to +15, reduced green contrast to -8, raised red and blue brightness to +11 and reduced green brightness to -11. With these adjustments, the color balance on our H30 was beautiful."

I need a decent 25-30 foot component cable for my H30. What cable brand should I look at that isn't going to cost me an arm and a leg? I'm using some RCA audio quality cables right now and am getting some random lost signals while viewing my progressive content.

Thanks,
Don

Originally posted by Dillinger
I need a decent 25-30 foot component cable for my H30. What cable brand should I look at that isn't going to cost me an arm and a leg? I'm using some RCA audio quality cables right now and am getting some random lost signals while viewing my progressive content.

Thanks,
Don
I always believe that RAM as a forum sponsor should receive the first look. My experience with them has been very good. If they prove to be out of your price range- try Cables To Go whom I had very good luck with as well.

Cheers!

Originally posted by rsmith4321
You don't get the point, we know sources are different. But two PJ hooked up to the same source with the same service menu settings will give wildly different pictures. This doesn't make sense. And it's far more than lamp difference.
Rsmith- do you have to work hard at being this abrasive or does it just come naturally to you? Kras has probably forgotten more about front projection than you will ever know. Lighten up and think before you type.

krasmuzik probably wasn't aware of how far some of our little H30's were off...calibration wise.

I sure hope krasmuzik hangs around 'cause his comments about the blacks and dark dithering were really helpful to me.

Fleaman

I sure hope krasmuzik hangs around 'cause his comments about the blacks and dark dithering were really helpful to me.

i thought pimp was his protocol(?) son?:D

sorry pimp -you guys seem tight

rudee:p

ps- sign me up for that h31 too

Okay, I have to ask a dumb question regarding the buzzing noise. Do any of you really KNOW what 60dB is? If you all are measuring 60dB right next to your unit, I think there is something wrong.

Look at the document posted a few pages back about the noise levels, and you'll find the H30 (at least the UK version) is supposed to be only 30dB at 1m. I can see some of you going "well, 60 is only twice that." No, not really. Every 3dB gain represents a TWO-FOLD increase in noise. That's why the difference between 37db (the spec on a Dell MP2200), and 32dB (the spec on the H30 was really important to me, as a buyer). That means the H30 is supposed to less than HALF as loud (and then some) as the Dell projector!

60dB is equivalent to a dishwasher at 10ft (in the rinse cycle)...i.e. it's VERY loud. I don't know why this is 'acceptable' to people...it's certainly not to me. Even if I "only" paid $14xx MSRP, that's crazy. I want to be able to hear my movie over the projector, even in the quiet scenes. I think the H30 was designed to be this way...I just think the recent ones are...well, damaged somehow.

I know this is just my opinion, and I'm sure people will jump all over me on this one, but considering the placement of these projectors, and that often, we are required to sit right underneath them, they should be relatively quiet. 60dB...no. 50dB...no, even 40dB is too loud. They should be under 40dB at 8ft, no matter what. Would a few of you mind taking readings at 8ft or so, and see where you stand. Maybe I AM being too sensitive, but sheesh...that's just too loud for my tastes.

I do love the H30's picture, please don't get me wrong. But when a budget MP2200 is quieter, I have issues. That just doesn't make sense. And I don't believe I should have to "break in" a projector for 100 hours. If that's really what it takes to make the projector operate in it's spec'd mode, then they should do it at the factory. If the Dell is quiet out-of-the-box, why can't the Optoma be the same way? (or better, according to the specs). Sorry for the rant, but I just have to play the Devil's advocate here...

- Valkyrie

I decided to send my H30 in for the firmware upgrade. When I got the RMA I told them I had the green bar issue when switching from HDTV to SDTV. Well they tried to do the upgrade and it failed. They had to replace a board to get it to take. I called and talked to them and told them about the green bar issue again and was told QA checked it out and they couldn't get it to lock up.

valkyrie--

See my post on the previous page (#4263) about db readings at home.

---Meaning: Even when everything is off in a 'quite' home, you still are looking at a 20 to 40db background noise level.

Fleaman

Hey Val,

I guess the answer right now is that once the "color wheel" settles in that buzzing will go away. Doesn't look like there is going to be any discussion on this topic until we have 100+ hours on our PJs and they still buzz. On a good note, maybe this is correct and the buzzing will go away. I don't think your post was too abrasive, considering you are basically being told that you are wrong about the power supply. Just hang in there and we will all see how this eventually works its way out. I'll give Optoma the benefit of the doubt and wait to see if it disappears. If it doesn't then they will just have a bunch of angry customers expecting an explanation. If it does, we will all forget about this and it will become common knowledge that the unit buzzes during its break in period. So just hang in there, you have plenty of other people who have heard buzzing. Tom included, and if he says its gonna go away, then I tend to believe him, he hasn't led me astray so far.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Rsmith- do you have to work hard at being this abrasive or does it just come naturally to you? Kras has probably forgotten more about front projection than you will ever know. Lighten up and think before you type.

I didn't think I said anything abrasive really, I guess I need to read my post better. Maybe we should all lighten up a little :) He obviously hadn't been reading the H30 posts like we have and he didn't understand the issue we were discussing correctly. I actually find someone jumping in an explaining to us our obvious misunderstanding a bit abrasive. No matter how much knowledge someone has in general, it doesn't mean he knows the H30 in particular and it's quirks as well as others on this message thread do. I didn't mean any offense at all, perhaps I just put it in the wrong way. Like you said, I should think before I type. But the issue I believe he was referring too (perhaps I completly misunderstood) is the fact that we complain about the different factory settings required for different projectors. He just stated a point that is obvious about different input sources giving different results, but not an answer to the issue of why every H30 has to have very different service menu settings to obtain the same results. If he had read this thread a little more, he would realize guitarman has already tested the same service menu settings with wildly different results. That's the point I was making, but just put it in the wrong way I guess.

Originally posted by valkyrie
Okay, I have to ask a dumb question regarding the buzzing noise. Do any of you really KNOW what 60dB is? If you all are measuring 60dB right next to your unit, I think there is something wrong.

Look at the document posted a few pages back about the noise levels, and you'll find the H30 (at least the UK version) is supposed to be only 30dB at 1m. I can see some of you going "well, 60 is only twice that." No, not really. Every 3dB gain represents a TWO-FOLD increase in noise. That's why the difference between 37db (the spec on a Dell MP2200), and 32dB (the spec on the H30 was really important to me, as a buyer). That means the H30 is supposed to less than HALF as loud (and then some) as the Dell projector!

60dB is equivalent to a dishwasher at 10ft (in the rinse cycle)...i.e. it's VERY loud. I don't know why this is 'acceptable' to people...it's certainly not to me. Even if I "only" paid $14xx MSRP, that's crazy. I want to be able to hear my movie over the projector, even in the quiet scenes. I think the H30 was designed to be this way...I just think the recent ones are...well, damaged somehow.

I know this is just my opinion, and I'm sure people will jump all over me on this one, but considering the placement of these projectors, and that often, we are required to sit right underneath them, they should be relatively quiet. 60dB...no. 50dB...no, even 40dB is too loud. They should be under 40dB at 8ft, no matter what. Would a few of you mind taking readings at 8ft or so, and see where you stand. Maybe I AM being too sensitive, but sheesh...that's just too loud for my tastes.

I do love the H30's picture, please don't get me wrong. But when a budget MP2200 is quieter, I have issues. That just doesn't make sense. And I don't believe I should have to "break in" a projector for 100 hours. If that's really what it takes to make the projector operate in it's spec'd mode, then they should do it at the factory. If the Dell is quiet out-of-the-box, why can't the Optoma be the same way? (or better, according to the specs). Sorry for the rant, but I just have to play the Devil's advocate here...

- Valkyrie

That is true, but if you stick your ear up to the side of the PJ it's going to be much louder than at a distance. 60db is supposed to be about the sound of "summer nocturnal insects". I wouldn't want that in the room with me though I suppose. But I found the H30 to be as quite or quiter than the 6100 and X1.

My H30 is a lot quieter than 2 different X1's I had in my place. Even without eco mode the H30 is quieter.

I have had no problems yet with my H30, but I am having a difficult time getting the colors right with AVIA. My blacks have a bit of a red hue to them.

With AVIA, which screen do you use to adjust your colors? I have been trying to use the one with the Red, green, and blue with the different percentages, but I am really struggling getting accurate colors.

Hey Guys,

I figured why blacks looked so bad on the matrix Monday night. Actually it was from getting my screen blacks to match the off pixels. If I have the screen blacks a bit lighter, the blacks all smooth out and don't look blochy anymore. Thats why Harry Potter looked good when I watched it, and then bad after the Matrix DVD test. I probably am going to just stay a step lighter or 2 above the off pixel blacks just to make everything look better, and then use what Kraz said to do with the brightness.

I removed the redness and got the black bars in the 16:9 movies to match the off pixels. That resulted in blotchy blacks. I don't know what the proper term is but it looked a bit pixelated and not smooth. Changes of shades were evident and not transitioning smoothly. If I turn contrast down a couple notches things smooth out a lot. Is this the wrong way to fix this problem? Should I keep my screen blacks matching my off pixels and then work from there, or is having it a couple shades lighter acceptable? That is how it came out of the box anyways, just also had a red tint as well.
Anyhow, the image looks good again, unfortunately my uncle came by and I showed him matrix on it while I had this problem and it just looked like total crap. Have to have him come back by when I get it all straitened out. Now I just need to find where I am happy with the image and use Avia again.

Flea,
Might want to consider this as a partial compromise on the noisy blacks problem. Just go a step or 2 lighter than the off pixels and I think it should make a big difference, maybe...

Ok people are taking the 60db reading out of context !

--- That reading is with the pick-up sensor right on the case of the H30 [ at a Vent location ] , not 4' or 8' away !

--- Most of us do not have db meters that go low enough to measure the H30 noise level at 8' or even 4' [ the common units do not go that low - mine only reads down to 50db ] .

--- For example I have a 20" Box fan that reads 90db with the sensor right against the fan itself on the lowest speed setting [ this fan can just barely be heard from across my room with nothing else on ] .



--- Everyone should feel fortunate that krasmuzik posts in this thread , his knowledge with digital projection calibration far exceeds anyone else that has posted in this entire thread [ of this I can assure you ;) ] . I am not his prodigy by the way ;) , his experience is in the digital realm while my background is with CRT's [ we both learn much from each-other :D ] .


--------- Jason

Originally posted by hikarate

Flea,
Might want to consider this as a partial compromise on the noisy blacks problem. Just go a step or 2 lighter than the off pixels and I think it should make a big difference, maybe...

Well, I think the problem is that a calibration for the Matrix may not be the perfect calibration for Ice Age. Ok, that is extreme, but my point is I could practically calibrate black levels for each different movie...meaning what might work on the Matrix may not work on Minority Report.

But your comments are noted...I will experiment with it a little more. It's just that these days I don't have that much time to screw with the projector, let alone watch movies. Since I think I finally got a very good pic going, I'm gonna watch movies when I have the time, instead of messing anymore with the calibrations. Of course, that is what I say now, once the projector is on, I tend to go into the settings too much, always tinkering.

Damn it!

Well, I'm still gonna hold off on detailed calibration sessions until either there is 100 hrs on the lamp or the unit goes back for the buzzing problem. If they send me a new unit, most any of my detailed calibrations would be moot anyways.

Fleaman

Does the Optoma H30 let you adjust your primaries RGB points like the NEC or Sharp? If so then you would be using the RGB screens, Usually projectors RGB controls are used to control the mixture of RGB that creates grey. So if your grey is a little green - cut green or add red/blue - but the screens you need for that are the greyscale screens.

I think the entire lamp projector industry got hit with a run of variable quality lamps - so yes indeed I do think a recently shipped projector could be variable on the factory calibration. I just posted calibration results in the SP5700 thread - a unit from eight months ago was very tight from factory, but one from four months ago was a little loose on the green - and this was over the DVI input!

If your blacks are dithering - well that is DLP for you - go buy an LCD (or hope HD2+ or 3chip DLP fixes this) Raising black reference to remove the dithering for zero blacks will of course remove dithering for low blacks. But if you remember that contrast is white level divided by black level. Just raising blacks a few notches past the dithering means you have destroyed your precious contrast that you bought the projector for - might as well have bought an LCD! So you have to make a choice - contrast or dithering? You should be sitting >2x your screen width back for a low resolution projector - then dithering and artifacts is less of an issue.

You guys are right - I hardly have time to read the thousands of posts in this thread because I am busy trying to help other people. I figure DaGamePimp and Guitarman are doing a fine job here - and I just like to comment on what I know about DLP in general. I don't have time for flamefests though and will not participate in threads/forums where that goes on - I offer advice - that is all.

Now if I thought there was a market for ISF calibration in the cheap projector forum - I would be borrowing DaGamePimp's H30 so I can tweak on it. I don't for the same reason I don't waste time ISF'ng the SP4800/X1 - the service cost a significant portion of the projector! Why learn something I don't sell our cannot make money on servicing? Smart businessmen keep in eye on the competition - maybe I get convinced I should pickup Optoma - or maybe I don't. But I will say it was guitarman's posts that got me convinced I should carry NECHT1000 - for those who want to tradeoff contrast for brightness.

You have to realize in this forum you will be making tradeoffs. Spending low $$$$ does not get you the same quality as spending $$$$$. Face it front projection is still a fringe technology that is not ready for the plug and play plasma crowd. (And you don't even want to try calibrating a plasma or LCD tv!)

So stop your tweaking - put on a movie and laugh at your idiot neighbor that thinks his puny little plasma from Costco is awesome. It is all about the movies folks.....enjoy.

P.S. DaGamePimp lives nearby - we sell each other our used junk and borrow burnt goods, and we were the first in our area to start having local AVS meets. He does not PM me to come over here and stir the pot like you guys are thinking. AVS should be about helping people - not flaming people or companies. So lets be good neighbors - DaGamePimp has an Optoma and I can still be his good neighbor even though I sell Infocus! In fact just today a guy asked me if he should get the Optoma over Infocus - and I said yes - it is shipping now and you want to play PC games - go for it!

Sound Pressure Level Meters are good for measuring broadband noise. They are not so good at measuring frequency specific noise in the presence of broadband noise. The energy at a single frequency will not contribute much to the overall sum. The human ear/brain is a much better discriminator of specific sounds (whine/buzz) within broadband noise (fan). So unless you have a high resolution spectrum analyzer - I don't think you will get far saying a whine or buzz is bothering you and is out of spec. I am not saying there is no problem - just that you need to get the repair tech to hear what you are hearing. What is with those colorwheel bearings anyways - the Infocus SP7200 just had a spate of those complaints! I know if I pick up the SP4800 during a demo it whines at me until I put it back even!

Originally posted by krasmuzik

If your blacks are dithering - well that is DLP for you - go buy an LCD (or hope HD2+ or 3chip DLP fixes this) Raising black reference to remove the dithering for zero blacks will of course remove dithering for low blacks.

Raising blacks, as in making it blacker or lighter?

Raising blacks as in increasing brightness, or RGB offsets - so they are lighter. Making blacks blacker is usually referred to as deeper blacks.

There is a point at which the blacks become solid grey and no longer dither.
And there is a point at which the blacks become solid black and no longer dither.

You want only the deepest black to be solid black - one step up on the brightness control and they should start dithering, back it off. Otherwise you lose contrast and shadow detail. You just have to sit far enough back >2x to not see the dithering for it to serve it's purpose.

Just play with the brightness control and observe it closely it will make more sense.

kras-
just wanted to say thanks for dropping by and helping out the optoma crowd!

rudee

Thanks for your help in clarifying the issue, krasmuzik.

Cheers

Originally posted by Burntfingers
I decided to send my H30 in for the firmware upgrade. When I got the RMA I told them I had the green bar issue when switching from HDTV to SDTV. Well they tried to do the upgrade and it failed. They had to replace a board to get it to take. I called and talked to them and told them about the green bar issue again and was told QA checked it out and they couldn't get it to lock up.

They had to replace a board when they did the c05 firmware upgrade for me also.

I'm supposed to send mine in next week for the green bar problem. Only thing is I'm now able to make my cable box output 480p & 720p so I could stay with all progressive signals and never have a lock up.

Quick question on hooking a notebook PC up to the H30 via my receiver.

Will this set up work?

Connect the notebook PC to one of my component inputs on my receiver using a VGA cable and VGA cable to component adaptor, like the one shipped with the H30.

This way I will have only the component cables running to the projector.

Will it work and where can I get ahold of one of those VGA to component adaptors?

Originally posted by krasmuzik
So stop your tweaking - put on a movie and laugh at your idiot neighbor that thinks his puny little plasma from Costco is awesome. It is all about the movies folks.....enjoy.


LOL. You are so right. Thanks for adding a little perspective to the discussion Kras. :)

Originally posted by Ben_Mueller
Will it work and where can I get ahold of one of those VGA to component adaptors?

Yes, it should. I would just get a VGA-to-component breakout cable to connect your notebook PC to the receiver rather than an adapter.

Re: the buzzing noise, while I haven't had it occur in the four H30s I've tried, I did have a BenQ 6100 in for review that had the same problem. While it wasn't noticeable during normal movie dialogue and action, it was irritating during the quieter scenes. FWIW, it did get better after about 30 hours, but it still was there.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Ben_Mueller
Will it work and where can I get ahold of one of those VGA to component adaptors?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, it should. I would just get a VGA-to-component breakout cable to connect your notebook PC to the receiver rather than an adapter.

Huh... I didn't think this would work as this is what I originally wanted to do. I understood that although you can get a DB15 to component breakout cable, the signal coming from the PC's video port is VGA and not component. I think you need a transcoder to do it this way.

Perhaps I'm in error and it would not be the first time :)

Originally posted by krasmuzik
If your blacks are dithering - well that is DLP for you - go buy an LCD (or hope HD2+ or 3chip DLP fixes this) Raising black reference to remove the dithering for zero blacks will of course remove dithering for low blacks. But if you remember that contrast is white level divided by black level. Just raising blacks a few notches past the dithering means you have destroyed your precious contrast that you bought the projector for - might as well have bought an LCD! So you have to make a choice - contrast or dithering? You should be sitting >2x your screen width back for a low resolution projector - then dithering and artifacts is less of an issue.


Thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge Kras, its extremely helpful.
As far as raising the black reference, I didn't mean to move it up to where the dithering is gone. Just move it 1 or 2 points up from where it exactly matches the "off pixels". Its still very black, just a shade lighter than the off pixels. If you didn't know to look for the difference I don't think most people would even notice it. I really have to look for it myself, and while watching a movie it isn't even an issue. However when I match the 16:9 black bars to the "off pixels" I get very bad dithering.
Where I have it right now is way darker than the OTB settings, but not an exact match for the off pixels. I am sitting 2x screen width back and when the movie blacks matched the off pixels the dithering looked very bad. My uncle was not impressed with the image at all. If I had it just where I have it right now, it still has very slight dithering, but it isn't distracting at all. I don't think my contrast is dropping severly by doing this, but that is definitely what is being directly effected.
Thanks for clarifying the terms and concepts of what we have been struggling with. That was a great help.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Huh... I didn't think this would work as this is what I originally wanted to do. I understood that although you can get a DB15 to component breakout cable, the signal coming from the PC's video port is VGA and not component. I think you need a transcoder to do it this way.

Perhaps I'm in error and it would not be the first time :)

I just did some checking around and it does look like a transcoder would be needed to convert the VGA signal from your PC to a component signal. The component signal and VGA signal are defiantly different creatures...

Question... Does the H30 have a "reverse transcoder" built in since it can receive component video over the VGA connector via the adaptor?

Originally posted by gottahavapj
I think it was Mike that replied to one of your posts the other day indicating that the 9" reach of the Panavise would not give adequate clearance for all the stuff that hangs off the back of the projector.

Wha?? How is 9 inchs not enough? I mean, true, I haven't done it yet... but from the mount point on the H30 to the back of the case is about 4.01811024" (thank you Google converter!) at most... thats leaves you 5 inchs for cables... also I use a VGA extension cable on the back of the unit, so that big VGA to RGB adapter isn't hanging straight off the projector.

On another topic... are you people really regreting your H30 purchase because of the 4805? I took the H30 plunge because it was so highly rated here, despite its share of problems which I had gathered is normal with most projectors, especially in this class range.

Originally posted by fallenturtle
Wha?? How is 9 inchs not enough? I mean, true, I haven't done it yet... but from the mount point on the H30 to the back of the case is about 4.01811024" (thank you Google converter!) at most... thats leaves you 5 inchs for cables... also I use a VGA extension cable on the back of the unit, so that big VGA to RGB adapter isn't hanging straight off the projector.

On another topic... are you people really regreting your H30 purchase because of the 4805? I took the H30 plunge because it was so highly rated here, despite its share of problems which I had gathered is normal with most projectors, especially in this class range.

Hey Turtle,

I say give it a try if you think it will work for you. It is one of the more inexpensive mount solutions, and may be worth just giving it a try at the price. That 9" doesn't seem like so much after you start mounting the thing though.

I think there will be a select few people who will regret purchasing the H30 over the 4805. These same people will regret purchasing the 4805 after the next new thing comes out as well. All things considered this PJ just looks good with DVDs. Unless you have something right up next to it, you aren't going to notice you are missing anything. Now that I got that dithering thing worked out I am happy again.

Regarding using The Matrix as a test,

Getting the Matrix to look good is a tough job because the production of the source (i.e. the DVD) isn't very good and even looks grainy on my Sony widescreen TV. Using a lower res DLP projector exacerbates the problem even more. I managed to get it to look fine, but i'm generally disappointed with The Matrix as opposed to how the projector renders it.

One thing to note about using The Matrix; it's very 'green' in colour in the same way that Minority Report is very blue - so it's hard to accomodate for all films.

G

Originally posted by hikarate
Hey Turtle,

I say give it a try if you think it will work for you. It is one of the more inexpensive mount solutions, and may be worth just giving it a try at the price. That 9" doesn't seem like so much after you start mounting the thing though.

I think there will be a select few people who will regret purchasing the H30 over the 4805. These same people will regret purchasing the 4805 after the next new thing comes out as well. All things considered this PJ just looks good with DVDs. Unless you have something right up next to it, you aren't going to notice you are missing anything. Now that I got that dithering thing worked out I am happy again.
I agree with hikarate on all points here. On the mount- I don't know why it seems so short for a 9 inch one but it does, I have not actually measured it yet. I'll measure it tonight when I get home but right now the mount only reaches for me from the 1/4" mounting location to just past the right front corner of the H30 running almost parallel to the top of the unit. Perhaps if you're not using the component adapter on the back of the H30 you may have enough room...

I spent about 20 minutes yesterday trying to figure out how to post pictures in my gallery that I took of my mount to no avail. Can you say thick? :)

I certainly will not regret my H30 purchase no matter what happens with the 4805. A 4:3 projector and screen makes more sense for my use over the next few years. I was fortunate enough (knock, knock, knock) to get a flawless unit- no buzzing, no orange light failures, no green bar although I don't have HD or anything progressive other than DVD, almost spot on calibation out of the box. I am thrilled with the unit. My wife and I actually sat down and watched an entire movie (The Italian Job) last night from end to end for the first time since hookup two weeks ago. Even she was very pleased.

Thanks!

Originally posted by fallenturtle
Wha?? How is 9 inchs not enough? I mean, true, I haven't done it yet... but from the mount point on the H30 to the back of the case is about 4.01811024" (thank you Google converter!) at most... thats leaves you 5 inchs for cables... also I use a VGA extension cable on the back of the unit, so that big VGA to RGB adapter isn't hanging straight off the projector.


9" is plenty, but the original question was about the J-box mount, which is only 6-1/4" from the screw to the wall plate. Impossible to use with the component-to-vga adapter.

gottahavapj


that is what your suppose to do enjoy your new toy ;) and if the wife likes double bonus , and good movie :)


i am almost there now just got my da lite model c 92x52 and it is heavy :D ,now just have to mount this sucker and enjoy ;)

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Huh... I didn't think this would work as this is what I originally wanted to do. I understood that although you can get a DB15 to component breakout cable, the signal coming from the PC's video port is VGA and not component. I think you need a transcoder to do it this way.

Perhaps I'm in error and it would not be the first time :)

Sorry, I don't use a laptop and I thought you could output RGB.

I'm one month into my H30 ownership and I love the projector. Pretty much everything about it trumps my NEC LT150. The only thing I miss is the added resolution for HD (I really did notice quite a bit more detail with the LT150), and the inability to properly view non-anamorphic DVD's via my Panasonic RP56 (the LT150 handled this just fine). Nothing I can really do about the lower resolution, but I'm anxious to start watching some of my letterboxed DVD's. If I get the firmware update, SD 4:3 programming will no longer fit on my 16:9 screen. Any ideas?

Originally posted by jeff442
If I get the firmware update, SD 4:3 programming will no longer fit on my 16:9 screen. Any ideas?

A 4:3 image will be windowed in on your 16:9 screen when the H30's set in 16:9 mode. The firmware update only gives you the full 800 X 600 when the H30's set to Native 4:3.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
My wife and I actually sat down and watched an entire movie (The Italian Job) last night from end to end for the first time since hookup two weeks ago. Even she was very pleased.

Thanks!

I'm glad someone is watching a movie at least :)
Congratz Gotta you deserve it. I plan on watching some movies this weekend, what kind of paper did you guys use to get the ball joints to grip better? and where do I buy it? Can I just use sandpaper or is there something else?
Think I am going to remount the whole thing one more time and be done with it. My VGA cable came in and I need to hook that up anyways, may as well try to get it all done and start watching movies.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
9" is plenty, but the original question was about the J-box mount

ewww... well since thats what I want to get....

Originally posted by MikeSRC
9" is plenty, but the original question was about the J-box mount, which is only 6-1/4" from the screw to the wall plate. Impossible to use with the component-to-vga adapter.
You are absolutely right Mike. I forgot that was the original question, my mistake...

Thanks!

Originally posted by new teq joe
gottahavapj

that is what your suppose to do enjoy your new toy ;) and if the wife likes double bonus , and good movie :)

You're right Joe! It was very good to just sit back and enjoy. :)

Originally posted by hikarate
I'm glad someone is watching a movie at least :)
Congratz Gotta you deserve it. I plan on watching some movies this weekend, what kind of paper did you guys use to get the ball joints to grip better? and where do I buy it? Can I just use sandpaper or is there something else?
Think I am going to remount the whole thing one more time and be done with it. My VGA cable came in and I need to hook that up anyways, may as well try to get it all done and start watching movies.
Thanks hikarate!

I took my panavise apart before I installed it and roughed up the two balls and sockets, actually took all the paint off the sockets with emery cloth which is like plumbers sandpaper they use for deburring copper tubing. I suppose you could try regular sandpaper on metal parts. I'm not sure how well that will work as I have always had emery cloth around and just used that on metal. I think a little 2"x5' roll of emery cloth was like $2 at the hardware store. It greatly enhanced the grip of the Panavise in "low profile" mounting mode. You still do have to allow for that slight sag that we had before though.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
You still do have to allow for that slight sag that we had before though.

Hey gotta, mine seems to sag a bit on the lense side, you have the same problem? I think that side is heavier and it has a tendency to pull it down a bit. This might be where buying the mount that uses all the screws would come in handy. But for the price its worth the hassle, mine is holding up pretty good without using an emery cloth. I'll have to see if I can pick one of those up, thanks.

I've got a different opinion about the buzzing issue "not being electrical". In my case it most likely originates from the lamp. Explanation coming up...

I returned my previous PJ since it had a firmware problem which completely jammed the projector and the only way to shut it down was to pull the plug (which damages the lamp ofcourse). It was one of the very first c05's that appeared. This lockup happened twice:

The first time i was adjusting the contrast by holding the remote control button down. The movie played fine in the background but the contrast bar remained and i couldn't turn the PJ off -> had to unplug it.

The second lockup happened when tuning the color component brightness / contrast values (again by holding down the remote button on the slider). This time the entire screen went marine blue with a deep blue rectangle in the corner. Again I had to pull the plug.

I took it back to the store I bought it from and they gave me a new one (I got a lensmask and a lit remote as well, which is nice). This new one is a buzzer. It makes an electrical buzz while the lamp warms up but the noise vanishes when it turns very bright.

Also, i've got a lamp with brightness control in this room. When I turn the lamp brightness up, the PJ buzzes while in the middle portion but stops buzzing again when it's cranked all the way to the brightest setting. The PJ itself is in the opposite side of the room and completely in a different socket.

You guys might want to check if you have some interfering electrical systems causing your noise... i'd say it's a bad lamp unit since my previous PJ did not have this problem or at least i didn't register it. What the previous unit did not have for sure is the startup buzzing.

About the firmware lockups, i'm reluctant to start cranking this new PJ's sliders for fun. Anybody wanna give it a shot if it's a bug in the firmware? Anybody else had similar lockups playing around a lot with the slider-type image settings?

It is a KNOWN issue that dimmers cause electrical line noise [ the effects can be noticed with many electrical devices ] . Dimmers are VERY bad unless you have them on an isolated circuit .

-- Another thing to consider is Halogen lamps , these have been found to cause electrical noise due to the operation current required .


-------- Jason

Yeah...

That's why my lamp is a double no-no dimmer + halogen :)
Still, the startup buzzing does not originate from an electrical disturbance outside the PJ. I've checked...

Quarterbrain ,

-- I was not suggesting this as the cause of all the Buzzing problems but it is certainly something to consider when putting together an HT ;) .

--------- Jason

First time I ever heard about your kind of lock up. About a half dozen users here have the interlaced signal lock up with a blank screen w/green bar across the top. Progressive or HDTV will still play and the only way to get 480i back is to power down & restart.

Nothing I can do to get the buzzing back. That went away along time ago. My projector does make a kiss type sound on first startup. That's the color wheel cranking up. Another thing to talk about is when I shut the projector off, on the screen I'll get a starfield type pattern. Looks kinda cool like a galaxy scene. Black with white pixel squares spread out.

You guys see this on power down.?

That's what i'm hoping for as well...
my first unit probably was just a bad firmware flash or something...

I'm not really mad about it or anything... i'm just glad this thingy comes with such an extensive warranty :)

I don't own a car so it's a pain to carry this around to get a replacement. Hopefully the lamp will endure at least the "promised" 2000 hours even if it is buzzing each time i power up. That's also not a cheap part to replace if it pops after the 90 day period...

Guitarman - about the "starfield"
Yes I saw that a lot on my previous PJ. Didn't think much of it though. Haven't seen it yet on this new one...chances are I will.

Originally posted by hikarate
Hey gotta, mine seems to sag a bit on the lense side, you have the same problem? I think that side is heavier and it has a tendency to pull it down a bit. This might be where buying the mount that uses all the screws would come in handy. But for the price its worth the hassle, mine is holding up pretty good without using an emery cloth. I'll have to see if I can pick one of those up, thanks.
As I have the arm of the Panavise pointing out towards the right front corner of the H30 if you were looking at it from the top- my sag is down and to the left slightly. That is only natural as the entire weight of the projector leans in that direction. When I cranked her down the last time I made the top of my projected image about 1 inch below the top of the screen with the right-top edge about an inch lower than the left. I then cranked 'em down and the unit "sagged" down to a perfect spot. Sounds more difficult than it actually was especially after a few attempts. Even after I got rid of the stupid thumbscrews I don't think I would have gotten this thing to lock in this position this well had I not roughed up the surfaces and gotten rid of that paint in the sockets.

Good luckeroo...

Hey! I just noticed the Senior Citizen thing! Tooo funny :) I bet I got ya beat though...

Oh and for the person that was using Matrix as a basis of calibration ... DON'T , it is a terrible dvd . Now Reloaded and Revolutions are much better in regards to image quality .

--- I have to give one more plug here for 'Master & Commander' , this dvd is so incredible that everyone should watch it at least once [ or be like me and watch it many times :D ] . Very few dvd's offer this level of "WOW , look at that " for image and "WHOA , did you hear that " for sound ... here it is all combined in one package for our HT pleasure :D !!!


------------ Jason

Not much of a track record on H30 bulbs yet other than mine having 750hrs without a problem. There were a few failures but those happened right away. I hear they looked into better QA for bulbs.

Originally posted by guitarman
Another thing to talk about is when I shut the projector off, on the screen I'll get a starfield type pattern. Looks kinda cool like a galaxy scene. Black with white pixel squares spread out.

You guys see this on power down.?
No way! Is that a feature? Sounds cool! :) Mine does not do that...

No star pattern here either , but that is probably just the mirrors on the panel catching the last bit of light reflection [ should not be of any concern IMO ;) ] .


------- Jason

Mine does it every time. You get a black background with spread out white pixels. I thought it was intensional, for effect.

You'd expect a sales rep tell you that ;)

I noticed none of you guys use the gallery for displaying pics and I know Tom, Jason and Mike all use their websites for it. Does the use of the gallery stink or something if I just want to post a couple of pictures?

Thanks!

or an in-famous ... errr no wait I mean famous Optoma Marketing/PR person ;) .


:D :D :D

--------------- Jason

gottahavapj ,

--- I am sure the AVS gallery works fine [ I have never used it though ] .

--- If you have a cool pic or two I would be happy to host it on my website for you ;) . I need to get some more up to date pics posted on there anyway :D .


----------- Jason

When you say the panavise sags... do you mean the ceiling is sagging, or is the casing actually sagging??

Is there any reason the H30 would be more susceptible to line noise than other pj's. i've a few pjs in here and haven't ever had any issues- Is it a cheap power supply in the H30?

rf

Ugh!
I wasn't using the matrix for calibration. I also never mentioned sending the H30 back because dithering in the blacks.
People half read posts, respond and then people respond to their half read replies and before you know it I am returning my H30 because I saw dithering on the Matrix!

I was showing The Matrix to my uncle, and I had just so happened lowered my black levels, not thinking this would effect the image as far as dithering, but it did, so the Matrix looked even worse, than it usually would. I agree this is a bad transfer though, hopefully they will do a digitally remastered box set... eventually.

Also I asked about an RMA concerning the buzzing problem, not the dithering problem, and originally said I probably wouldn't return it unless it gets worse, Mike said if it doesn't go away I should return it though so thats what I will do if it is still buzzing after 100+ hours of use.

No offense Pimp, just trying to set the record straight :)

Originally posted by fallenturtle
When you say the panavise sags... do you mean the ceiling is sagging, or is the casing actually sagging??

FT,
Jason said his is rock solid, but he has the 6". Since you are getting the 9" like gotta and I, we both have a problem with tightening it up and then having it settle a little bit. So if you line everything up and tighten, it will drift downward a few centimeters, just enough to get your image out of alignment. So when tightening it, you have to compensate for this sag/drift problem. Being that you are planning to mount on a wall, I think yours will be even more supsceptable to this. But as long as you keep the joints perpindicular to the floor, the casing should keep itself straight, so you might not have any problems with sagging. Since we are hanging from the ceiling, whatever angle we are at the mount will sag towards the joint, but coming from a wall you may be able to avoid this problem all together just by keeping your joints horizontal.

hikarate ,

--- Well to set the record further and straighter ;) . I was not implying that anybody was using Matrix to calibrate from but used it as a basis of calibration previously done [ calibration done before watching it ] - my mistake there as I should have been more specific with my comment .


------ Jason

Originally posted by hikarate
FT,
Jason said his is rock solid, but he has the 6". Since you are getting the 9" like gotta and I, we both have a problem with tightening it up and then having it settle a little bit. So if you line everything up and tighten, it will drift downward a few centimeters, just enough to get your image out of alignment. So when tightening it, you have to compensate for this sag/drift problem. Being that you are planning to mount on a wall, I think yours will be even more supsceptable to this. But as long as you keep the joints perpindicular to the floor, the casing should keep itself straight, so you might not have any problems with sagging. Since we are hanging from the ceiling, whatever angle we are at the mount will sag towards the joint, but coming from a wall you may be able to avoid this problem all together just by keeping your joints horizontal.

I looked at this, another meaning of "joint" popped into my head and now I can't stop laughing.....:D

JPSmith ,

-- So I take it you watched a ton of 'Beavis & Butthead' :D .

--- " Dude ... he said Joint ... huh huh huh "


------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
gottahavapj ,

--- I am sure the AVS gallery works fine [ I have never used it though ] .

--- If you have a cool pic or two I would be happy to host it on my website for you ;) . I need to get some more up to date pics posted on there anyway :D .
----------- Jason
Thanks for the offer Jason. That might work well to have a collection of Panavise pics in one spot. I don't think I'll get time to download from the camera tonight but as soon as I do I'll email them to your hotmail account? Thanks again...

I did actually get my thick head around uploading to a gallery. Click on my gallery to see. Jason- I can also still email to you if you like...

Thanks!

Originally posted by guitarman
Mine does it every time. You get a black background with spread out white pixels. I thought it was intensional, for effect.

I get that starfield effect, everytime too, black screen with random white dots for a split second, I always thought that it was a technical thing where all the mirrors were supposed to shut off to black and some just remained white.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
It is a KNOWN issue that dimmers cause electrical line noise [ the effects can be noticed with many electrical devices ] . Dimmers are VERY bad unless you have them on an isolated circuit .
-------- Jason

Is it correct to state than an "isolated circuit" is simply an outlet that has its own dedicated path back to the breaker panel, and its own breaker, with no other devices on it? Or is there some other means to isolate the line? I intend to have dimmer-controlled lights in the HT room, but I certainly don't want to introduce line noise problems for the H30. Conversely, would it be better to have the lights on their own circuit, but perhaps having the projector share a circuit with other AV equipment?

Good grief, I think I want the H30's ceiling outlet to have a wall switch, too, since I have to pull the power cord off once or twice before I can get a successful boot with the darn thing. Stupid "orange light." Why can't the power button work when that illuminates? Grr.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
hikarate ,

--- Well to set the record further and straighter ;) ------ Jason

No problem whatsoever Pimp

I watched Transporter today, looked great. A bit of dithering in a couple scenes, but entirely acceptable and enjoyable. If you haven't seen this movie, and like action flicks pick it up. This is by far the best my PJ has looked so far. Very happy at this point, now I just have to get my PC hooked up so I can play some Planetside on this thing.

Anyone else big Anime fans? I wonder if they know about this projector, this has to be the best DVD for anime considering so much of it is 4:3. I might have to drop by a couple forums and see if there is any buzz and bring them over if not.

Originally posted by JPSmith
I looked at this, another meaning of "joint" popped into my head and now I can't stop laughing.....:D

Did you use a Cheech and Chong flick to test our your H30? Today I had a POT of boiling water (roughly 420 degrees) that I hit with a lead PIPE and it made this HIGH pitch BONG sound.

There.. that should get it out of your system...


Now back to the H30... doesn't it worry anyone to have a sag in the casing?

ToddR ,

--- yes your deduction is correct , and yes there are other methods of having a truly isolated line [ but they can get rather expensive ] .


________________________

fallenturtle ,

--- I don't think anybody has stated there to be a sag in the H30 casing , I think what was meant is that the unit sags down a little after final adjustment [ from the weight of the H30 ] . After seeing gotta's pics I can understand how there would be a slight bit of sag (drop) happening after tightening the mount .



------------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
I don't think anybody has stated there to be a sag in the H30 casing , I think what was meant is that the unit sags down a little after final adjustment [ from the weight of the H30 ] .

I see... my simple mind misunderstood... the sagging is in the mount... aye?

After reading all the possible issues with this projector I do not know if I should just send this back to Dell..unopened. It has been sitting in my living room since yesterday morning. :(
I had a X1 for over a year and it performed flawlessly. But I had an oppurtunity to offload it close to my purchase price so I did. Let see how it goes tonight.

Hey Saturn,

I think you have 14 days to play with it, check the return policy that shipped with it. Either way, you should take whatever time Dell allows for to play with the PJ and see if you like it, no harm done. At least I believe thats the policy, double check it yourself.


Hey Gotta,

Mine is hung exactly opposite of yours. Which one of us is the evil Spock? Do you have a Goatee?

After browsing through all the posts I will try to do preventative maintenance on my unit and see if any of the issues come up.


1.green bar issues when switching inputs.

- have only one output source. Build a HTPC with built-in TV tuner, SVideo RCA input and SPDIF out to receiver. I can hook up game consoles and VCR through the input of the HTPC. The HTPC will play the DVDs.

2.buzzing either from the power supply or color wheel

- since I have some of the stuff from my audio gear I will install use a $500+ hifi audio power cord (no snikering please...I had one on hand anyways). a Line Conditioner Automatic voltage regulator with surge protection ($450). Have nothing else plugged into the same socket or at least turned off during the time the projector is on. This should isolate any issues with the power or noise/interference with the power. See if having my halogen light on or off would affect the operation fo the projector. Hell I can even sut off all the power to the rest of my home except on the circuit where the projector is. (Fiancee. the dog and fishes would love that)
:eek:
The conditioner would also regulate the power to the projector so that constant level of power will be delivered to the projector and there would be no fluctuations in the power. This prevents the power supply to work too hard.

3.inadvertant power-on of the projector

- use the line conditioners switch to turn on and turn off and on the unit. I will try just shutting off the unit using the hard power off approach and not let the fans cool the bulb. This worked rather well with the X1 and it worth the try. It does make sence that the normal cooling down process of the bulb sounds more rational than a gust of colder air cooling down a hot object. To me that just initiates too high stress on components which can eventually cause fissures and brittleness.

4.Orange power light and the bulb not striking

- turn the projector on and leave it on. Once turned off leave it off for a long period of time say 30 mins+ . The constant off and on and different temperatures created during this process prevents the bulb to strike properly.

HK:
Thanks. I know they even mentioned that even within an alloted time (i forget but I thought I heard 2 months) if I am not happy with the unit they would exchange it to another brand name ie. Dell ..... . Unfortunately they do not carry the Benq 6200 or the old NEC HT1000 here in Canuckland.

Originally posted by Saturn_AD
HK:
Thanks. I know they even mentioned that even within an alloted time (i forget but I thought I heard 2 months) if I am not happy with the unit they would exchange it to another brand name ie. Dell ..... . Unfortunately they do not carry the Benq 6200 or the old NEC HT1000 here in Canuckland.

Well good luck with the PJ, sounds like you have everything considered before hand. Let us know how things go.

BTW I don't know if my unit buzzed last night during the Transporter or not, I didn't notice it if it did, which is all that really matters in the end.

Awhile ago, some of you asked about lens and color wheel cleaning. I found a post by Guy Kuo, where he recommended the Formula MC cleaning solution from 2filter.com. I picked up some of that solution recently (it's dirt cheap and I had it in 3 days from the east coast) and it does a great job. Make sure there's no dust on the lens (a little compressed air works well) and apply a drop of the solution on lens cleaning paper. Wipe the lens with a circular motion, then use another paper (or two) to remove any excess. It dries clear with no residue. Highly recommended. :)

Good info Mike.... Thanks!

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
After seeing gotta's pics I can understand how there would be a slight bit of sag (drop) happening after tightening the mount .

------------- Jason
Jason-

Are you making fun of my mounting skills? :) Well feel free to, I know I've shook my head at it a few times. :D It really was about my only option since I wanted to keep the mount on a ceiling joist and my screen position was fairly fixed... It is rock solid and perfectly aligned now though..

"Originally posted by hikarate-
Hey Gotta,

Mine is hung exactly opposite of yours. Which one of us is the evil Spock? Do you have a Goatee? "
I'll be the evil one :D no prob.

Thanks Mike,
I ordered me some of that there cleanin solution. Much abliged.
Compressed air tip is truely appreciated. I have cans of that stuff everywhere but never think to use it for my camera, or PJ. Just use it for my PCs and when my ears are clogged...

buzzing update:

personally i've stopped noticing the buzzing. and i don't know if it's just my faulty hearing/memory, but i'm pretty sure that it has gotten quieter.

hey, the picture still looks amazing.

geoff

btw-anybody with an xbox go get 'red dead revolver' - i'm a couple boss characters in it. My life is finally complete!

Hey Gotta,

You have that plug on the ceiling already or do all that to set the H30 up? Looks really nice! I got wires hanging down the wall ghetto style.

geoff,
That's sound promising. How many hours on your projector now?

I think the main things we need to worry about is the green bar lock up and bulb failure. Haven't heard many reports bad bulbs lately and the green bar thing has only been a very small amount so far.

The good news for that problem is I have one with it and plan to send it in next week (guinea pig). They'll look at it here in California and will then forward it back to Taiwan where they can research it.

When Wing was there the last couple of weeks they couldn't find one with the problem.

tom-

i've got about 20 hours racked up now. no green bar and no bulb issues so far and man, I hope I don't have to think about either for a long time.

just want to keep watching my 'stories'. :)

awesome of you to be the test case for this thing. somewhat fitting as your something of a papa bear to this tribe.

-geoff

Saturn_AD ,

--- Well sadly you cannot use your High End power cable , the H30 has a special design on the power plug (at the case) .

_____________________________________


gottahavapj ,

--- Not making fun at all , just commenting on how that position could certainly be a little more difficult to work with ;) .

______________________________________

shatten22 ,

--- Yeah I have been playing 'Red Dead Revolver' for a couple days now , pretty fun game :D [ better than 'Dead Mans Hand' but not as good as 'Van Helsing' IMO ] . I hate the dang train ride , what a pain in the arse that was ;) .



----------------------- Jason

You got 20hrs so far, not good enough yet. :)

I use my projector daily. About 6hrs in the morning and 4hrs or more at night. So I can easily do 100hrs a week. One of the reasons I like the 3,000hr bulb. I blasted my HT1000 up to 1500hrs in no time, put 1200hrs on my Z90 in a flash.

Originally posted by Quarterbrain
I've got a different opinion about the buzzing issue "not being electrical". In my case it most likely originates from the lamp. Explanation coming up...

This new one is a buzzer. It makes an electrical buzz while the lamp warms up but the noise vanishes when it turns very bright.



You guys are making me a nervous wreck, every time I switch my H30 on I'm convinced I can hear something that sounds terminal or expect the thing to spontaneously combust and hurl itself off the ceiling.
I didn't realise that owning a proj could be so stressfull!

Quarterbrain I get the same orrible buzzin noise exactly as you describe it, the noise lasts I guess around 10 seconds and goes the instant the brightness comes full up.

I've been wondering if everyone else also hears this at startup (please say you do to preserve my sanity) ?

Regards MikeDes

Have any of you guys got the 800 X 450 working on your HTPC? I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro and have tried custom resolutions with powerstrip, but i can't seem to get it. Thanks guys

Only noise I hear is the Color Wheel spin up as the Lamp comes on , but do not mistake this for the Buzzing issue as this is totally normal with all color wheel equipped dlp's [ at least that I have heard ] .

---------- Jason

memize ,

--- Are you trying to get a better aspect from your desktop [ is this why you are trying the 800x450 resolution ] ?

--- There will be no benefit for doing this with the HTPC unless you just want your desktop to look better [ vs. the squeezed look of compressed 800x600 ] . Trying to pixel map the 800x450 will not gain anything for image quality while watching movies , I did it and can see no difference [ my eyes are very well trained too as I notice any flaws right away ;) ] .

--- My suggestion with an HTPC is to let it ride at 800x600 and set your dvd player software for Anamorphic ( disable aspect control in ZoomPlayer ) and then let the H30 do the Squeeze down to 800x450 [ as long as you wish to have the image projected lower ( vs. right in the middle of an 800x600 resolution setting with aspect ratio control using 4:3 Native on the H30 ) ] . Consider the lower 16:9 image should look the best according to what Wing stated a while back in this thread [ which it sounds like this is what you want to do ;) ] .

--- Also consider that any HTPC gaming will probably not work at 800x450 [ other than those games that allow for custom resolutions ] . Most games will kick the resolution back up to 800x600 . I don't know if you do any PC gaming but thought I would add this in anyway for those that do ;) .


--------------- Jason

thanks jason i actually do a lot of pc gaming, I wanted to get the 800 X 450 to have a true widescreen desktop. I believe Optoma should release a driver set for there projectors. This would help many people out

Anybody have experience buying from Dell? I am wondering about their return policy (in case I am RBE-sensitive). It looks like there is a 15% restocking fee if ordered from Small Business, but I couldn't find details for purchases through Dell Home. Anyone know? 21-day return?

Thanks
- Frank

Well after reading page after page of this fp and others i`ll be the first to admidt that i`m in near meltdown. However its time to pull the trigger on the hs30 which will be my frist fp, and i have three questions. 1 Where to buy with the new remote and lens mask.2 A new dvd player <$400. 3 Conection the only veiwing will be dvd and xbox. This will be in my garage converted to home theater. Seating 12 to 15 feet with screen size 80 to 100 inch diagonal. No table mount because i have a two year old so it will have to be celing mount 8ft. There is %100 lighting control with a parkland screen and black cloth velcro mask setup that is movable by hand.To anyone who chimes in thankyou in advance.

Mine does it every time. You get a black background with spread out white pixels. I thought it was intensional, for effect.
__________________
Tom/guitarman


Guitarman, I get the same effect on shutdown... everytime, just lasts for a second

Hi Tom
can you tell me if I can cut off the plug socket on the US power lead to put a UK 3 pin plug on as I have just got word from my misses who is in Newyork picking up my H30 (whoopie) to bring it back to me here in the UK,
I have contacted Optoma here in the Uk about the power cord stating I am a US citizen that travels to the UK but have had no word from them in 2 weeks, UK plugs have 3 wires: live(brown) neutral(blue) earth(green/yellow) and fused
any help

Can't you get a covertor adaptor or a UK type cable. The computer type end that goes to the projector is what we call the "Micky Mouse Type" Three circles that form what looks like Micky mouse ears.

Originally posted by hikarate
Hey Gotta,

You have that plug on the ceiling already or do all that to set the H30 up? Looks really nice! I got wires hanging down the wall ghetto style.
Thanks man but sorry.. I'm not sure I understand your question.... The electrical and signal cables go through a hole in the ceiling and then head toward the entertainment center above the sheetrock ceiling. What you see in the picture is a standard dimmer switch wall plate that has a rectangular opening just to dress up the big 'ole hole in the ceiling :) Know what I mean?

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Thanks man but sorry.. I'm not sure I understand your question.... The electrical and signal cables go through a hole in the ceiling and then head toward the entertainment center above the sheetrock ceiling. What you see in the picture is a standard dimmer switch wall plate that has a rectangular opening just to dress up the big 'ole hole in the ceiling :) Know what I mean?

Oh yeah, I know what you mean. Anyhow, it looks really good. I guess all that fishtaping finally paid off? I'm jealous :)

tom-

if i could spend more time with my new best friend I would - just got this play to finish and then there's my girlfriend taking any free time i have. the last couple of times I used it was to show it off for her friends. all i want to do is watch japanese movies and play xbox. soon. very soon.

jason-

i'm prof. perry and mr. black. kill, kill, KILL! my brother has a copy so he let me borrow it for two seconds; the graphics were all right, but i think you have to be a fan of westerns to really like it (i am). i'm still waiting for my copy to come from Rockstar.

-geoff

Originally posted by indiejones
Hi Tom
can you tell me if I can cut off the plug socket on the US power lead to put a UK 3 pin plug on as I have just got word from my misses who is in Newyork picking up my H30 (whoopie) to bring it back to me here in the UK,
I have contacted Optoma here in the Uk about the power cord stating I am a US citizen that travels to the UK but have had no word from them in 2 weeks, UK plugs have 3 wires: live(brown) neutral(blue) earth(green/yellow) and fused
any help

Hi Indi

My UK H30 came with both UK and US leads.
I made up an extension cable using the US lead and cut off the US plaug and fitted a UK 3-pin no probs ! :)

I also tried contadting Optoma UK 3 times via email to get their stance on the warranty of a US PJ in the UK - Didn't hear a thing back (Even though I got return receipts.....even tried replying to the return receipts but still zilch).

Guys

I watched the Last Samurai last night on mu UK (PAL) H30 and was tweaking the settings etc.

I found that the picture was MUCH better when using the "Graphics" setting as opposed the "Film" or "Video".
Film and Video seemed to wash out the colours whereas Graphic mode looked perfect and gave much more detail on the face.
I'm using a ceiling mount and a matt-white screen.

Anyone else find this?
Also, the PJ is in Econo mode but will using Graphic instead of Film reduce my bulb life?

Simong,

I received my H30 (pal) 7 days ago. With some adjustments in menu "advanced adjustments" and picture looks fantastic on a 135cm (53") horizontal screen. I'm using "film" mode and started to set each value, contrast and brightness with -4. Then I looked at the background colors and reduced reds "-10" (contrast) and "-20" (brightness) and Blue to -6 (contrast) and -10 (Brightness). Now background looks almost black and also skintones.

Since a bought a new Dalite HP screen with 200cm (78") x 150cm (59") I tested last night how it would look like when I get the new screen by enlarging the picture on my small screen (portion of the picture I looked at). Now the black becomes grey, so I need to re-adjust colors for the larger screen.
I also realized that I ordered the wrong sized screen, screendoor all over. My viewing distance is 9 to 12 feet. So I tested that it is better for me to use a 168cm (66") horz. sized screen. No screendoor very sharp picture.
Now I realise that it takes a lot of tweaking to get these projectors to work optimal (I guess not only Optoma).

Originally posted by Rick Prothro
Well after reading page after page of this fp and others i`ll be the first to admidt that i`m in near meltdown. However its time to pull the trigger on the hs30 which will be my frist fp, and i have three questions. 1 Where to buy with the new remote and lens mask.

I got an H30 from MikeSRC (who has a number of posts here) at SurfAudioVideo.com. He has the latest ones, plus he'll check it out for you before he ships it if you want. I had him run mine a few hours to check for buzzing or anything else. He also has about the best price going right now. My H30 had some of the red push, mentioned, but it was easily adjusted out per the instructions that some have posted. It's been perfect in all other respects.

Rick,
The killer combo is the H30 with the Zenith DVB318 dvd player. Read about over in the DVD player forum. Mine arrived yesterday and I was up until 2:00 am watching movies. It made me glad I did not spend $3,000 or more on a higher resolution front projector. This will tide me over until the 1080p projectors come out, which I hope will be in 2 years. The 318 upconverts 480 to 1080i over component. I purchased a 25' component cable from the AVS sponser Ram. The picture is fantastic!

Thanks everyone for getting back to me,
Tom the UK computer socket has 3 flat pin socket so wont be able to use that,
simong you are the one that won your proj on ebay from someone in Richmond on Thames, did the US cable that you got with yours does it have earth wire and what does the UK lead have (3 wires or 2) and what fuse does it carry.
ps the reason I bought my proj from the states is that me or someone in my family are always traveling there and we have family address there for the warranty

ok what was the screws for the model c pull that you guys used for wall mount again ?

Originally posted by MickB
Rick,
The killer combo is the H30 with the Zenith DVB318 dvd player. Read about over in the DVD player forum. Mine arrived yesterday and I was up until 2:00 am watching movies. It made me glad I did not spend $3,000 or more on a higher resolution front projector. This will tide me over until the 1080p projectors come out, which I hope will be in 2 years. The 318 upconverts 480 to 1080i over component. I purchased a 25' component cable from the AVS sponser Ram. The picture is fantastic!

MickB (or anyone),

I have this player/projector combo as well. Just got the Zenith DVD player yesterday. Do you have any problems with it?

When I view any DVD at 1080i I get a horizontal line made up of about 32 individual tiny white dots that is centered horizontally and at the top of the image (projected just above a 1.78:1 movie) and a small white "dash" that is within the boundaries of the movie but very close to the top left corner.

These show up with any DVD I have tried and also with the zenith splash screen when the DVD player is on but not playing a movie. They do not show at 480p. If I didn't dump my camera in a swamp recently I'd take a screen shot of it.

Has anyone seen this before? Is it some sort of overscan signal that the dvd player sends with 1080i that can be removed by somehow adjusting the projectors image size or vertical cropping? Or might the player be flawed? It did not happen with the H30 and my Panasonic RV32 which is an interlaced player.

I will also ask about it over in the Zenith DB318 thread as well, but if it can be adjusted through the projector I figured the experts were here. Is there some way of adjusting the projector to not show the top 0.5 inch or so of the image? If so that would fix the dots but I'd have to get used to the "dash."

Any ideas?
Thanks.

JB

Push the horizontal up in the H30's signal adjustment menu.

Originally posted by guitarman
Push the horizontal up in the H30's signal adjustment menu.

Thanks Tom, that did it. I didn't find that adjustment submenu yesterday for some reason. I moved vertical up to 5 and that took care of the line of dots. I also adjusted the horizonatal by a bit and that took care of another problem I was having, which was some cropping off the right side.

I love this forum.

JB

I've been using those adjusments for a while. I'll get the static line with Fox OTA and just this week I learined how to change res on the motorola Dig cable box. When I changed the signal to 720p I got the cropping on the right.
Glad it worked.

Tom ,

--- So do you find that 720p looks better on the H30 than 1080i [ as I do ] ?





*** For those that do not know : The Motorola 6200 series HD box's menu settings are accessed when the unit is off [ in standby ] , you hit the menu button and the output settings will pop up [ they can be adjusted either on the display device or via the LCD panel on the front ] . Once you have your desired options set just hit menu again and then Power up ;) . ***


------------ Jason

Originally posted by indiejones
Thanks everyone for getting back to me,
Tom the UK computer socket has 3 flat pin socket so wont be able to use that,
simong you are the one that won your proj on ebay from someone in Richmond on Thames, did the US cable that you got with yours does it have earth wire and what does the UK lead have (3 wires or 2) and what fuse does it carry.
ps the reason I bought my proj from the states is that me or someone in my family are always traveling there and we have family address there for the warranty

Yep - Got it on Ebay from Richmond :)
Both leads are 3wire with earth - Cant remember fuse rating but I believe the PJ is 2A so a sstandard 3A plug will be fine.

Originally posted by indiejones
Thanks everyone for getting back to me,
Tom the UK computer socket has 3 flat pin socket so wont be able to use that,
simong you are the one that won your proj on ebay from someone in Richmond on Thames, did the US cable that you got with yours does it have earth wire and what does the UK lead have (3 wires or 2) and what fuse does it carry.
ps the reason I bought my proj from the states is that me or someone in my family are always traveling there and we have family address there for the warranty

Hi Indiejones, does the US H30 plug (that fits the H30 socket) when viewed from the end look a bit like a 3 leaf clover or a Mickey mouse silhouette.

If so you need a cable with a normal domestic (BS1363) three pin plug one end and a C5 plug the other, the fuse should be a (BS1362) 5A.

If you buy a proprietory cable it will almost certainly have all three pins connected, I would imagine the H30 is classed as double insulated as it has a plastic case so the earth wire may do nothing.

Just to be sure stipulate you want one that's fully wired.

I think these cables are popular with laptops but search the UK sites such as Keene electronics and you should find plenty of them. (suggest search term "C5 power cable")

Regards, MikeDes

Jason,
720p looks sharper. 480p on the analog channels looks better also.

So whats the latest skinny on the H30? Are there any current problemo's to expect if someone buys one?

Thanks Simong and thanks to you MikeDes
will do my homework on that!

Toronto area Canadians willing to demo the H30?

MikeDes
I found a site that has a C5 power cable can you tell me if this is the right one:
http://www.microwarehouse.co.uk/product.aspx?SKU=DCA5918

Thanks Indie

That's the cable you need.

Lastest on the H30, no rampant problems and nothing can touch it at it's price. :)

Latest on the H30 is that there are some of us with problems yet. Namely, the buzzing issue. Until someone gives me a better answer than "wait 100 hours then come back," I don't think it's a non-issue. I won't say it's a widespread problem yet either, but I didn't buy my car, hear a rattling sound, only to be told "wait until you're at 5000 miles, then come talk to us."

The Optoma techs should be looking at my returned buzzing unit on Monday, so I'll know more then. If they say it's nothing, I'll eat crow and let everyone know it. I just don't think it's fair to say this is the best unit around without at least letting him know there are some of us with a few remaining issues.

I'll admit the unit presents a quite good picture.

That's good to hear. I wasn't sure if I should purchase one because of all the issues I read about in this thread. I feel confident that I won't have any major problems. Unfortunately, I have to wait another week.

Just an update in case anyone cares... I'm at 39 hours on my H30 and I've had none of the reported problems thus far. I feel like I dodged a bullet, and am somewhat hesitant to send it back to Optoma to get the updated firmware (I can't watch my letterboxed DVD's... Office Space anyone?). I fooled with the Hoya FL-D filter for about a week, but like Tom, I prefered the brighter image and more accurate whites outputted by the naked H30. Funny, I used to love the filter with my LT150. I watched a full movie for the first time in a while last night, The Last Samurai. It really looked spectacular! Now I'm starting to get curious about the Zenith DVB318. I wonder if this unit will scale my non anamporphic titles to fit the 16X9 screen.

Wierd, I have a bout 30 hours on my H30 and now the orange light at power up issue seems to have gone. Its works a treat now..

Originally posted by valkyrie
The Optoma techs should be looking at my returned buzzing unit on Monday, so I'll know more then. If they say it's nothing, I'll eat crow and let everyone know it. I just don't think it's fair to say this is the best unit around without at least letting him know there are some of us with a few remaining issues.

I'll admit the unit presents a quite good picture.

Hey Val, that is great to have a time frame on when they are checking your unit, and that you are going to get feedback on it. I really am glad you are keeping on top of this issue. I am sure Optoma will handle it if it is reproducable at their location.

Hopefully Flea will post his results with his H30 over at his bosses house. Really looking forward to what Optoma has to say about your returned buzz unit. Be nice to get a definitive answer on the buzz, thanks for keeping us up to date.

well spent time today hanging my 52x92 video spectra ( no waves ) and the pi is aw some ,and the model c is the way to go ,i hung it on the wall with anchor screws (300 pounds it holds) and hooks ;) and to be honest this sucker ain't going no were and everything cost me 9$ Canadian not bad :)


now when i am not so tired i will a line the pic better

Thanks for the replys mick,tom. After reading the 318 thread i think i will go that route. I look foward to giving input in the next couple of weeks. Once again thankyou.

Ok, I did compare my H30 with my Boss's on Thursday night. Unfortunately they had some unexpected guests and I couldn't really compare picture quality differences (lights stayed on most of the time).
This was a bummer.

But, for the buzzing, it is definite on my unit and not my Boss's. No matter which outlet, pwr cord, cables connected, not connected, blah, blah, blah, my unit buzzed and his (old firmware) didn't.

As I noted before, the buzz on my starts to fade away about 2 hrs after start up...about at the end of the movie:mad:

I have Avia now, but won't be able to use it until Monday I think.

Been real busy with work and also installing a blackout roller shade system for my windows....to watch movies during daylight! Not much time to play with my H30. In fact, I have to put it back on the ceiling mount maybe tonight.

Hopefully I will be able to do another comparison with my Boss's unit, but probably won't be for another week or 2.

Fleaman

I see that some of you guys are using the Motorola receivers for HD cable feeds with your H30's. I've run into a bit of a problem. I like to use the 16X9 native setting for the projector and my image aligns perfectly with my screen masking when I play DVD's. When I switch over to HD cable, the image shifts downwards by approx. 5", leaving a black bar above and 5" of image overspill onto the bottom mask of my screen. Is there anyway on the cable box or the projector to fix this? I went into "signal" on the projector and tried adjusting the verticle. This lets me get rid of the overspill on the bottom but does not move the top of the image back up to the top of my screen. Very annoying!

-By the way, I just constructed a screen out of a wood frame and some fabric I purchased off of ebay. So far it is the best image I have ever seen!

Well its been a weekend with the H30. And so far so good. None of the inherent issues has shown up. No buzzing out of the box. It is much quieter than my X1. Could not use my high end audio power cord. Did not fit. Out of the box it has more saturated colors than my old X1 which I had for a year. No rainbows as you guys said incomparison to the X1. I have the unit conected to a power bar into a socket that is shared by no other device. I have been doing the shutoff WITHOUT "cool down with fans" like I did with my X1 and it works "so far" flawlessly. I have not got a mis-strike of the bulb issue yet.


I won't calibrate till I get my Da-Lite Insta Theater screen which will come early this week.

The casing is really modern and cool and fits my deco...for those who care about this it has high WAF factor.

Will let you guys know hopefully by end of week and have pic up of the setup and picture.

cheers;


Originally posted by Saturn_AD
After browsing through all the posts I will try to do preventative maintenance on my unit and see if any of the issues come up.


1.green bar issues when switching inputs.

- have only one output source. Build a HTPC with built-in TV tuner, SVideo RCA input and SPDIF out to receiver. I can hook up game consoles and VCR through the input of the HTPC. The HTPC will play the DVDs.

2.buzzing either from the power supply or color wheel

- since I have some of the stuff from my audio gear I will install use a $500+ hifi audio power cord (no snikering please...I had one on hand anyways). a Line Conditioner Automatic voltage regulator with surge protection ($450). Have nothing else plugged into the same socket or at least turned off during the time the projector is on. This should isolate any issues with the power or noise/interference with the power. See if having my halogen light on or off would affect the operation fo the projector. Hell I can even sut off all the power to the rest of my home except on the circuit where the projector is. (Fiancee. the dog and fishes would love that)
:eek:
The conditioner would also regulate the power to the projector so that constant level of power will be delivered to the projector and there would be no fluctuations in the power. This prevents the power supply to work too hard.

3.inadvertant power-on of the projector

- use the line conditioners switch to turn on and turn off and on the unit. I will try just shutting off the unit using the hard power off approach and not let the fans cool the bulb. This worked rather well with the X1 and it worth the try. It does make sence that the normal cooling down process of the bulb sounds more rational than a gust of colder air cooling down a hot object. To me that just initiates too high stress on components which can eventually cause fissures and brittleness.

4.Orange power light and the bulb not striking

- turn the projector on and leave it on. Once turned off leave it off for a long period of time say 30 mins+ . The constant off and on and different temperatures created during this process prevents the bulb to strike properly.

Originally posted by valkyrie
Latest on the H30 is that there are some of us with problems yet. Namely, the buzzing issue. Until someone gives me a better answer than "wait 100 hours then come back," I don't think it's a non-issue. I won't say it's a widespread problem yet either, but I didn't buy my car, hear a rattling sound, only to be told "wait until you're at 5000 miles, then come talk to us."

The Optoma techs should be looking at my returned buzzing unit on Monday, so I'll know more then. If they say it's nothing, I'll eat crow and let everyone know it. I just don't think it's fair to say this is the best unit around without at least letting him know there are some of us with a few remaining issues.

I'll admit the unit presents a quite good picture.

Funny, if you don't want to see if the sound smooths out then any user should just send it in. We got a two year warranty so you could send it back any time you want. Wait and see/don't wait- it's up to you.

Actually Tom,
Val already sent one unit in and got another buzzing unit.
I have to say I have been watching movies this weekend however and not noticed any buzzing whatsoever. Earlier this week about half way through I would notice it, but at least for the Mummy and Transporter I didn't hear any buzzing. Could have been because no quiet moments in the movies coincided with the buzzing, or perhaps its gone. Either way I enjoyed both those movies and haven't heard any buzzing since Wednesday. I'll keep you posted if I hear it again, I am hoping mine is gone now after the break in period. Have about 30 hours on it I would guess.

Val, how many hours did you log in on each projector? Just curious. I'm not saying you can't be quick to send it back, but the few others should consider that the sound did go away completly on my projector and if they're happy with the one they have, color wise no dead pixels etc, they might want to stand pat to see if a break in period smooths out the buzzing color wheel sound.

Hmm just making sure here:

Is the green bar problem in the c05 firmware (thus in all new H30's) or is it a reason to get a replacement projector? I just had that green bar lockup myself... switched from HTPC to composite.

This thread is too big to start going through all posts :)

[edit]
Failed to reproduce it today... tried switching rigorously between HTPC and VCR... probably that fault is random or has another variable?

It's not early or new firmware related. The few users that have had it is with switching alot from HDTV/1080i to 480i TV or Progressive DVD or 480i dvd over a component input.

I did many many quick switches today and couldn't produce the problem. It sneaks up on you when least expected. Seems I'll have to be watching 1080i for a while and then switch to a 480i signal to make it happen.

I'm supposed to send mine in this week but I'm starting to think it's not worth it.

Edit: update I let the signal sit with 1080i for 10mins while I had a smoke. I have my DVD player set to 480i and just did the quick switch to it and bam green bar land. Only way to fix is to power down. But you shouldn't re power up at least not until a full cool off.

Makes me wonder if the idea of another user of hard power cut not allowing the fan cool down and then a quick power on would be ok for the projector. But it goes against the normal rules for all proejctors.

I got my H30 back for the firmware upgrade - it seems to be working fine.

Has anyone written up exactly what the effects of CO5 firmware is doing differently? I notice that I now have light spill on the top and bottom instead of just the top - like it is now using the center portion of the DLP chip. This is not great for me becase of the increased offset, I've had to set a wedge under the back of the H30 (table mount) to get it to hit the screen properly. Any change in the remote button functions (as far as aspect)?

Thanks,

John F

Jason -

-----------------
<<--- I have to give one more plug here for 'Master & Commander' , this dvd is so incredible that everyone should watch it at least once [ or be like me and watch it many times ] . Very few dvd's offer this level of "WOW , look at that " for image and "WHOA , did you hear that " for sound ... here it is all combined in one package for our HT pleasure !!!>>
-------------

Wife and I watched it last night. Jeez, is there a scene in the entire movie that was not shot at night or in the fog? That is my only complaint, your are right, the sound is very good...

John F

I have just ordered the H30! It should be here by Weds/Thurs. I can hardly wait.

I hope I get the latest model with firmware and lens/remote! I should, right?

I'm certain to have questions once it arrives!

Ryan

I hope I get the latest model with firmware and lens/remote! I should, right?



yes you should :)

Originally posted by jfried
I got my H30 back for the firmware upgrade - it seems to be working fine.

Has anyone written up exactly what the effects of CO5 firmware is doing differently? I notice that I now have light spill on the top and bottom instead of just the top - like it is now using the center portion of the DLP chip. This is not great for me because of the increased offset, I've had to set a wedge under the back of the H30 (table mount) to get it to hit the screen properly. Any change in the remote button functions (as far as aspect)?

Thanks,

John F

The image is in the middle because you have your DVD player set to 4.3 or 4.3 letterbox. Go into the DVD player setup menu and choose 16.9. always.
The other adds of the firmware are Letterbox support for non-anamorphic dvds. A 4.3 screen user can display NA-dvd's with the window button or 4.3native button. If you use a 16.9 screen to display NA-dvd's you use the 4.3native button only.

The last item for the firmware was a much more gradual zoom control.

Originally posted by guitarman

Makes me wonder if the idea of another user of hard power cut not allowing the fan cool down and then a quick power on would be ok for the projector. But it goes against the normal rules for all proejctors. [/B]

A hard power down and then a quick power on would definitely NOT be ok. The bulb won't strike. I would even suggest to leave the unit off for at least 30 minutes.
I am only suggesting a hard power down if you know the unit will be off for the rest of the day or night. It worked for my X1 for a year and no buzzing, no bulb replacement, no unusual activity on the unit.

And then again once I post this message watch my H30 go nuts.
:D

I do not see the 'Signal' menu option in the image menu. I'm sending the projector an interlaced signal from the dvd player's YPbPr o/p thru the component to vga adapter.

Page 22 of the manual says - "The "Signal" sub menu is supported under the Analog RGB and Analog YPbPr input sources.

Am I missing something here? Thanks!!!

It's there for 480p, 1080i,

Thanks Guitarman.

I live in an apt. and do not want a permanently mounted screen. Any suggestions on that. Would one of those tripod mounts do? Or something that comes as a frame that I can hang on the wall and fold away perhaps when I want to take it down (or move to a different apt.).

30 hours on my h30, no problems, none at all :-))).

Thanks!!!

Check out a dalite Insta Theater.

Originally posted by ac2003
I live in an apt. and do not want a permanently mounted screen. Any suggestions on that. Would one of those tripod mounts do? Or something that comes as a frame that I can hang on the wall and fold away perhaps when I want to take it down (or move to a different apt.).

Blackout cloth is pretty cheap ("budget blackout" is $6/yard at Jo-Ann's) and you could mount it to a wooden frame and just toss it when you move. I've been mulling over using a dowel and some weights so I can roll it up and stick it in a corner.

~ Kiran <entropy@io.com>

Guitarman -

It seems a bit far fetched that only a handful of people have the green bar problem... probably just most people don't have the equipment with which they're able re-produce the firmware bug.

For instance, i've used 800x600 @ 75hz from my HTPC all the time and switching to PAL TV signal every now and then and only once i've come up with the green bar lockup...

Pulling the plug on H30 isn't a good idea... I have experience on this with the previous malfunctioning PJ... the fans won't start until the orange light goes out (the lamp cools by itself) which is i think is simply stupid... the cooling would definitely be more effective with the fans... is turning the fans on bad for the lamp?

Would be nice to have a forced cooling button just in case you get a power outage or something. Though i gather it's not a good idea to watch movies with a PJ during a thunderstorm anyway :)

Originally posted by ac2003
Thanks Guitarman.

I live in an apt. and do not want a permanently mounted screen. Any suggestions on that. Would one of those tripod mounts do? Or something that comes as a frame that I can hang on the wall and fold away perhaps when I want to take it down (or move to a different apt.).

30 hours on my h30, no problems, none at all :-))).

Thanks!!!

Have a look at my gallery. I, too live in an apartment, and I built a blackout cloth screen. The cost was under $50, and I hung up with picture frame hangers, which works quite well.

Miguel.

Originally posted by Quarterbrain
It seems a bit far fetched that only a handful of people have the green bar problem... probably just most people don't have the equipment with which they're able re-produce the firmware bug.


I've wondered if it's not source and/or switching related. Currently, I have HD to SD switching through an Audio Authority component video switcher without problems. Later this week when I have mine mounted in its new location, I'll try some different sources and see if I get the green bar.

Tom -

My DVD player is an LG LST-3510A (it is also an OTA HD receiver). My aspect ratio choices on it are:

1) Letter Box
"Use for a picture with an original 16x9 aspect ratio. Letterbox mode will shrink the picture to fill the screen, with black bars appearing at the top and bottom of the screen."

2) Cropped
"Use for a picture filling the entire screen by cropping (removing) the left and right portions of the picture."

3) Squeezed
"Use for a full picture filling the entire screen with no black bars. The picture in a 16x9 format will be horizontally adjusted or squeezed to fit the 4x3 ratio monitor. This setting can also be useful when used with 16x9 aspect ratio monitors or with 4x3 aspect ratio monitors that have a '16x9 enhancement' feature."

These are the book descriptions. Wonder why they named them like that? My experience mixing these with pj aspect ration settings are:

1) Letterbox on the player + window on the pj = OK, slightly taller image than (3) (2" using a 92" wide screen.)
2) Cropped on the player + anything on the pj = sides cut off
3) Squeezed on the player + 16x9 on the pj = OK
4) Squeezed on the player + 16x9 native on the pj = OK with a few lost pixels on sides and top/bottom.

Seems to be no way to get a DVD shooting at the bottom of the chip on the pj, although the image is great and properly aspect ratioed using either (1) or (3).

Haven't played with 4x3 material yet. I can tell no difference so far in the image quality between 480i & 480p on the player, so the deinterlacers must be about the same quality.

Any comments on this? Thanks,

John F

From your instx you should choose 3 and 16.9 should show the picture at the bottom area.

I have my comcast stb and dvd player set to 16.9 in the menu systems. Both will show a 16.9 image at the bottom of the screen. Even if I put on a 4.3 movie, if I want I can squase it down to the bottom of the screen by hitting 16.9 aspect on the projector.

The only reason a 16.9 image would show in the center would be if the source is set to 4.3 in it's menu system.

Try another player set to 16.9 in it's menu system.

"It seems a bit far fetched that only a handful of people have the green bar problem... probably just most people don't have the equipment with which they're able re-produce the firmware bug."

I don't know, I figure most everybody has a way to switch between a progressive and 480i signal, or HDTV to STD.

Originally posted by guitarman
"It seems a bit far fetched that only a handful of people have the green bar problem... probably just most people don't have the equipment with which they're able re-produce the firmware bug."

I don't know, I figure most everybody has a way to switch between a progressive and 480i signal, or HDTV to STD.
I don't have any HD signals but have switched back and forth between 480i and p dozens of times and have never seen a green bar.

Well I just got a new h30 projector because of orange lights /bulb failure and it has the new firmware.
There is a very slight buzz that the old one did not have but the fan drowns it out. Virtually unnoticeable...
I guess I am disappointed with the new firmware because I thought that it would make my svideo or component full 800x600 screen. Now all my 4:3 is inside 16:9 window no matter how I set it. I am going to miss the really big 4:3 screen in gaming htpc.
Also does the picture seem smaller too or is it just me?
I think guitarman had mentioned earlier that gamers might like the old firmware better and I do.
Also with optoma canada. Will Xing was great with shipping the new one out fast and he paid both ways!! Thanks will.
I got new lens mask but no backlit remote and they swapped my old bulb into new machine.
oh well, just glad to have it back!

Originally posted by rocker999
I guess I am disappointed with the new firmware because I thought that it would make my svideo or component full 800x600 screen. Now all my 4:3 is inside 16:9 window no matter how I set it. I am going to miss the really big 4:3 screen in gaming htpc.


Are you sure it has the new firmware? It doesn't sound like it. Have you checked that it's Ver. 5 in the service menu?

I checked the service menu just now and is it in the first part of it?
It said b03t sept 17 2003
It had a new picture at the start of a projector in a chair thats why I thought it was new.
Did they ship me and old one, calling it new?

b03 is the old firmware. It should be b05 to get the full 800 X 600 image with a component or S-video input.

Sounds like they didn't upgrade the firmware.
I would call them up and say this is unacceptable that you had to wait all this time for nothing. Demand a replacement unit. That way you will definitely get the new firmware, and should also get the lense cap and backlit remote.
Me thinks.

Wow- that is a Customer Service gaffe! Having him ship in his PJ and sending one back with 03?? I bet they'll fix that little error quickly.

When you hit the native 4:3 button on the remote you should get a BIG 800x600 screen with 05 firmware.

Sorry Rocker!

UGH !!!!!!!!!

--- Sorry to hear it rocker999 :( .

--- I am getting more concerned all the time about sending my unit back in fear of getting a worse or possibly used unit returned to me [ as it appears rocker did - I mean how could they have upgraded him to an old firmware , sounds like he got somebody else's returned unit to me ] .

--- Did you check the Bulb hours rocker ? Are they the same as what you had on the H30 before shipping ? [ I bet the bulb hours are reset so you have no idea what really happened ] .



--------- Jason

I guess Will Xing At Optoma Canada thinks I'm a moron.
He ships me a projector he says he just got in and is NEW it has firmware older than my old model.
He switched the bulb gave me my old one in this projector
kept the backlit remote and threw in the lens mask.
This does not seem to be the service you guys are getting in the states.
Canada is like living in a third world country.
I am before 90 days Can I get A refund?
Oh and THANKS for letting me vent! heheh...
bulb hrs say 1hr

rocker ,

--- check the serial # on the case and see if it matches your original [ you should have the original serial # on your RMA form ] .

--- I doubt it if Optoma would ever issue a Refund .


--------- Jason

I am sure it is a diferent unit even has a little pizza stain or someting on bottom.
It has different serial numbers but they are close.

AH , I see so you were expecting a different unit then [ just a NEW one with all the extras and the newer c05 firmware ] .

--- Jason

rocker ,

--- if you paid shipping on your original unit to Optoma then I would certainly be asking for a refund on shipping as well as a NEW in the box unit shipped out with them paying for the shipping to pick up the current one you have sitting there with the pizza stain on it .

----------- Jason

Shipping is the one thing will xing has been great about.
Twice he has paid the shipping BOTH ways and it has been a great help.

This in no way makes up for the worry about it blowing another bulb or shuting itself off all the time. (getting grey fast)
I am sure this is (in some way) a used model given as new and now I am mad.

Thanks for all your input guys! Having someone to talk to is nice when things are not going good..the dog just looks at me funny..

To heck with it for now I'm going to watch a movie.... hey there's an idea!

Just got e-mail from Optoma they seem confused about the older firmware and will says he go it from from us shipment on friday.
They are checking into it....

Hi all

First I must say: this projector throw really good image, i just put it last
night side by side with HT-1000 and i couldn't be happier with buying it.
But all good thing in life must have some problems - my projector have a
new one:
When watching PAL DVDs in 16:9 native mode i have a small "BITE" about 4" wide and 2" tall at the lower part of the picture, the "BITE" disappear when changing to 16:9 mode.
Any idea ?

Originally posted by rocker999
Just got e-mail from Optoma they seem confused about the older firmware and will says he go it from from us shipment on friday.
They are checking into it....

Take a look at the Optoma box and see if there's a QA stamp on with a date. The serial number is unimportant, but the ones in the States with the firmware update have a QA stamp dated April xx.

I see that some of you guys are using the Motorola receivers for HD cable feeds with your H30's. I've run into a bit of a problem. I like to use the 16X9 native setting for the projector and my image aligns perfectly with my screen masking when I play DVD's. When I switch over to HD cable, the image shifts downwards by approx. 5", leaving a black bar above and 5" of image overspill onto the bottom mask of my screen. Is there anyway on the cable box or the projector to fix this? I went into "signal" on the projector and tried adjusting the verticle. This lets me get rid of the overspill on the bottom but does not move the top of the image back up to the top of my screen. Very annoying!

HDTV is still about 5" lower on my screen as compared to DVD. I'm still hoping for some suggestions. Anyone else have this problem with a Motorola receiver?

Just got e-mail from Optoma they seem confused about the older firmware and will says he go it from from us shipment on friday.



no no he knows about the new firmware ,and i know this for a fact tell him to put it in because when i had my h30 my guy called me the day it came ,call him and tell him that you want the new co5 "period" , because it seems that these company teks don't want to work for a living ;)


he does know about the new firmware :)

I finally got my H30, thanks Mike...

I'm still waiting for DVI-VGA cable shipping tomorrow, so I'm using S-video from HTPC and first impressions just out of the box (quick contrast-brightness adjust via AVIA only ...) is fantastic.

I've some color wheel buzzing after about 3 hours (not before), much louder than fan noise... as Tom has suggested I will look at an Optoma solution for this issue before think to send it back...

About Zoom...2 is default settings??? 1 use only part of DMD...

Jason,
I've Zoomplayer set to anamorphic with powerdvd filters...but I still have a black bar, about 1/4 of image height,at the bottom of the image with PAL DVD -LOTR-, is this correct?
And I've to set window mode to have correct 2.35:1 aspect ratio (16:9 give me a crushed image), so I think I've set something wrong...

BTW........no more buzzing after 5 hours!!!

Originally posted by Mauro_it
About Zoom...2 is default settings??? 1 use only part of DMD...

Hi Mauro,

Zoom 1 should give you the full, normal image. "2" and higher zooms in on that.

Got my H30 back up on my ceiling mount (after confirming my H30 buzzes and my Boss's older firmware H30 doesn't) and watched Matrix Revolutions last night.....

WOW.

I didn't see this movie in the theater, this was the 1st time I saw it (really was waiting for my projector before I would watch it as I have only a 27" TV before). Picture quality was really stunning. There was some graininess in 'some' dark scenes (only a few)...but I didn't pause and look at the screen up close to investigate as I had friends watching with me. Yeah, I had to watch the whole movie w/o 1 pause to tinker with the projector!
Anyho, I think that dark grain was in the source DVD as most all the remaining dark scenes (most of the movie) were pretty smooth.

BUT, now my buzzing is worse! Before it would start to almost fade away after 2 hrs or more, but last night it got louder after 2hrs! Yup, at the 3+ hr mark it was louder that ever:mad:

Another strange thing: I had to re-enter all my calibration settings (normal menus). At 1st I thought they defaulted back to zero 'cause of being unplugged, but then I realized that I turn off the power to the H30 every night by switching off the power strip it's plugged into and it never (so far) loses those settings.
:confused:

I have Avia now, but I don't think I'm gonna waste anymore time calibrating this unit if it goes in for the buzzing problem.

The only thing is I hope they can really eliminate sending me another buzzer by checking the unit out as Guitarman says. A good calibration check would be great too! Would like to have it in the ballpark as a baseline for finer calibrations with Avia.

I think if my Buzzing doesn't get any better after 1 more week, it's going back.

Fleaman

Scratch my confusion about my settings defaulting back to zero. Now I think I might of hit 'reset' on all of my settings when comparing my unit with my bosses.

Duh.

Fleaman

[QUOTE]Originally posted by arieldr
[B]Hi all

First I must say: this projector throw really good image, i just put it last
night side by side with HT-1000 and i couldn't be happier with buying it.


Arieldr and Guitarman (or anyone else who has experience with both, the H30 & HT1000 projectors), I'm asking you two in particular because you both have seen the HT1000 and the H30. I'm considering purchasing one of these two projectors. I want to watch HDTV and DVD's with it. Knowing what you know about both of these projectors' picture quality, which one would you choose if you could only choose one (just based on picture quality)? Is the HT1000 that much better to you?

This will be my first projector and I'm new at HDTV. Your opinions will be very appreciated. Thanks.

guitarman -

I think I know why I don't get the 16x9 image at the bottom of the chip, and why I can't get full 800x600, and why the aspect ratio buttons don't give what I would expect - its not the LG LST-3510A after all.

Just checked the firmware ver. in the service menu, and it is BO3t !!! Dated Sept of 2003 ! Just got off the phone with David from Optoma, he has no answer, has to talk to 'somebody in charge', is supposed to call me back tomorrow.

This happened to someone else recently a page or two ago. I am really disappointed. Now, another week and a half without the pj? I feel like asking them to ship a new or used one to use while this one is gone again - and I don't normally expect the world for product support. But, to get the firmware upgrade wrong and cause yet more down-time, crap.

The worst is, my wife recomended that we not even bother with the upgrade in the first place, as she was into watching a movie every other night and was happy with the unit as it was...

John F

Well, there, now that I've vented I feel a little better. I'm sure they'll take care of the problem. Checked the serial number, it is the same unit I sent in. My firmware version (before sending it in) was CO3, now is BO3t. It should be CO5, right? Bulb hours were reset. Calibration isn't good anyway - switching to 1080i produces a nearly all black image. I checked with Avia, and had to set brightness to +34 and contrast to -10. Thanks for vent.

John F

2nd night with the H30 - pretty satisfied so far although I am just putting it on a low table and projecting it on my living room white wall. I expect that the wall does not have much gain if any so the image is a little dull and unable to get the blacks properly black.

I've tried the numbers on projector central and the numbers posted here for tweaking the colours and they all look pretty bad on my present setup - so I'll just live with it till I get a proper screen and recalibrate it then.

Quirks I've noticed over the last 7 hours of playing with the H30 is that - yes - there appears to be a kind of sound near the input panel/power supply but on my set it comes and goes and so far has not made much an irritant. Thing is I watched it a couple of hours in the dealers place before I took it home and never noticed it there (although I was listening for it as I've been following this thread for a while now).

sidenote: I should note that installed in my system I get electrical leakage (ie: little shocks if I touch the cable connectors, or certain parts of the projector) whereas at the dealer's place we could manhandle the pj and cables without any such effect. Maybe this has something to do with the buzz?

Also I note that if I swap between progressive and non progressive on the fly I get screwed up images (ie: appears like two images overlapped or even two images apart on screen). I have to put the DVD player on progressive from the start and then it is okay - though - I must say I am not able to discern any advantage in terms of image quality. No green bar yet ...

Got my H30 on Friday.
Looks great!
My first pj ! What a picture ! Holy @#$#^ it's amazing and I have not touched anything yet!

projecting on wall...happy with it.
Will be making a screen with blackout cloth for now.

Only had it on for 2 hours did not notice any buzzing.


question #1:
does the green power light every go off ?The light on my
PJ does not go off .. it stays green (flashing I think).
I was thinking of putting the PJ on its own circuit with a wall switch
to turn it off when bulb is cooled down.
is it worth doing this (ie: line noise etc )?

mount:

Waiting for my panavise mount to arrive (6 in).

Where the hell does it go ? Do you need to open that little grey panel that says "pull".All I see is a few little scre holes and a warning about screw size.


Well .... the Insolation/sound proofing is up ; finished vapour barrier.
Will put up the gyprock (sheetrock) this weekend.
I want to use this baby!
Ken W
(back to the cave)
Was going to c

Originally posted by simong
Guys

I watched the Last Samurai last night on mu UK (PAL) H30 and was tweaking the settings etc.

I found that the picture was MUCH better when using the "Graphics" setting as opposed the "Film" or "Video".
Film and Video seemed to wash out the colours whereas Graphic mode looked perfect and gave much more detail on the face.
I'm using a ceiling mount and a matt-white screen.

Anyone else find this?
Also, the PJ is in Econo mode but will using Graphic instead of Film reduce my bulb life?

Isn't the difference between graphics/film/video modes just a different default of adjustments? Meaning that you could duplicate any of the defaults, like make the 'video' mode look like 'film' mode by adjusting the advance adjustments, etc.
??

I thought those modes were just a quick way to switch to a different overall setting?

Fleaman

Hi guys, been down at Optoma all afternoon. Rather then send in my PJ I just arranged to personally make the switch.

Like I said before the green bar issue is rare and actually I couldn't get the lock up while I was at Optoma. I showed them a few digital screen shots of what the green bar looks like. :)

Ok so I got a new projector and had to do some calibrating. I think it was Ryan that had a problem getting the sub 2.35 bars to be black and match the unused area of the screen. Ryan to fix this I had to lower the DLP-RGB brightness from 32 to 27. Final color tweak was grayscale, I had to delete some green and then when looking at gray fields the darker ones I noticed some red in the gray. A little lower on the Advanced adjustment RGB-red fixed it.

Now the image is stunning as before. It really is a easy machine to calibrate.

It was fun hangin out with my buddies at the factory. They all know me down there. :)

Just checked the firmware ver. in the service menu, and it is BO3t !!! Dated Sept of 2003 ! Just got off the phone with David from Optoma, he has no answer, has to talk to 'somebody in charge', is supposed to call me back tomorrow.

Was it me you were referring to? I need to check my firmware. I get the same problem with my image not displaying all the way at the bottom of the chip, but it only happens with DVD's in the native mode.

Oh yeah .
I got the lens cap and backlit remote.
The lens cap is just a cap with a slight cut out ...will try it later.
It just manually screws on to the lens ?
Not sure what to do with it.
Will check firmware version
Ken W

Originally posted by rocker999
I am sure it is a diferent unit even has a little pizza stain or someting on bottom.


That is the worst discription of a stain on a box I have ever heard. That makes me want to send my PJ back! Just got pictures in my head of Optoma techs eating a pizza over rockers unit and laughing, rather than upgrading his firmware.

I am sure that isn't what happened, but thanks for the visual Rocker :)
BTW good luck with the replacement, I am sure they will hook you up proper this time!

---------
Originally posted by fleaman
Yeah, I had to watch the whole movie w/o 1 pause to tinker with the projector!
----------

Wow, I didn't know people could actually do that ;) I think someone would have to tie me up before the movie started.

Originally posted by kwalling
Oh yeah .
I got the lens cap and backlit remote.
The lens cap is just a cap with a slight cut out ...will try it later.
It just manually screws on to the lens ?
Not sure what to do with it.

Just insert it into the lens opening with the cutout on top. It stops at the inner (smaller) ring.

does the green power light every go off ?The light on my
PJ does not go off .. it stays green (flashing I think).

That's what it's supposed to do (the flashing that is).

Originally posted by guitarman
It was fun hangin out with my buddies at the factory. They all know me down there. :)

As well they should Tom, with all you've done to help them. :)

Thanks for keeping us posted on the latest developments. Now, if they could just add a DVI and dedicated component video inputs. ;)

We first looked at the Top dog Optoma H76 I think. It looked great but when we were testing my H30 it also looked great. I got to see the H30 with a Panamorph. The PJ looked very good with it and again great without it.

Originally posted by kwalling
mount:

Waiting for my panavise mount to arrive (6 in).

Where the hell does it go ? Do you need to open that little grey panel that says "pull".All I see is a few little scre holes and a warning about screw size.


There is a 1/4" threaded screw at one end of the Panavise mount that you screw into the tripod mounting hole on the bottom of the projector. It should be about in the middle of the unit. If I recall- the threads in the tripod mounting hole are just tapped out of the plastic case rather than it being a metal threaded insert of some type. You do not want to really crank that mount on there for fear of stripping the plastic threads. You are not supporting much weight at all here.

You could probably help your cause as well by taking the mount all apart before you install it and roughing up the two balls on either end and removing as much paint as possible from the two sockets with something like emery cloth. If you mount is just going to hang straight down and not be in an awkward position like mine is- this may not be necessary. Check my gallery for pics of a 9" mount that I made it as difficult on myself as possible in getting it up there :)

Good luck!

Originally posted by jeff442
HDTV is still about 5" lower on my screen as compared to DVD. I'm still hoping for some suggestions. Anyone else have this problem with a Motorola receiver?

Jeff,
How are you doing with this problem? It sounds like you have the new firmware and have conflicting setups in the devices you're using. Both your DVD player and Motorola s/b set to 16.9 display device. I say this because of the downward shift of a 16.9 image you're seeing yet some display is centered and up higher, which the new firmware would do if you have your DVD player set to 4.3/4.3 letterbox. Do some testing.

If you're using a 16.9 screen you need to use the 16.9 and 4.3 scaling aspects.

If you have a 4.3 screen you can use the 16.9 and 4.3 native aspects.

One thing if you view a 2.35 movie from DVD you can use the 16.9native aspect if you want. The image will shift up an inch or so but will still be ok within the 16.9 screen.

If you have a motorola 5100 you can see the setup in the secret menu by pressing Power & Menu at the same time on the STB. There you'll see what screen type and you can alter resolutions if you want.

Originally posted by arieldr
Hi all

First I must say: this projector throw really good image, i just put it last
night side by side with HT-1000 and i couldn't be happier with buying it.
But all good thing in life must have some problems - my projector have a
new one:
When watching PAL DVDs in 16:9 native mode i have a small "BITE" about 4" wide and 2" tall at the lower part of the picture, the "BITE" disappear when changing to 16:9 mode.
Any idea ?

Hey pretty good that the H30 holds up well next to the HT1000, especially with DVD. I like the colors and lumenance quality of the H30 a little better than the NEC.

Well will xing (optoma canada) has come through.
Will is paying shipping again and sending me a new one with updated firmware.
He says they still don't do the firmware update in canada.
He is also letting me swap remotes for the backlit one.

Waiting again sigh hehe.

I bought the last samurai also last night and enjoyed it...

Also I note that if I swap between progressive and non progressive on the fly I get screwed up images (ie: appears like two images overlapped or even two images apart on screen). I have to put the DVD player on progressive from the start and then it is okay - though - I must say I am not able to discern any advantage in terms of image quality.

You may have to resync the projector (resync on the top right of the remote). When I flick from interlaced to progressive, this happens to me too (looks like a garbeled double image) but I just resync the projector and everything is great.

I find progressive much better than non progressive; visual artifacting (dot crawl and interlacing artifacts) are removed and the picture is definitely more "celluloid" and cinematic.

G

Guys,

Thanks for all the info in this thread! I was looking at buying a big screen tv and stumbled into projectors. Over the last week my eyes are almost bleeding from reading this forum and especially this thread dealing with the H30.

I have found a local dealer, viewed some demos etc and I am about ready to buy an H30. Although this buzzing issue is holding me back, I HATE buzzing electronics. Don't mind fan noise but buzzing irritates the heck out of me.

Anyways quick question... how do people usually deal with power when ceiling mounting any projector? Do you need to get an electrician to install an outlet in your ceiling or can you just use an extension cord running to an outlet? Any restrictions on length/quality of the extension cord? I have ceiling tiles I can push up so running cables is not a problem.

Also, is a UPS a good idea? In order to prevent hard power loss to the PJ? Any particular brand/spec?

Once again, thanks for all the info guys! Can't wait to get rid of my 32" TV and get a PJ in place. Lots of movies to watch all over again ;-)

First off, thanks to guitarman and others on this thread for recommending this projector. The picture is truly amazing.

I'm projecting approx 90" image on a white wall and I wonder if the picture could possibly look any better. Can't wait until my Carada screen arrives in a day or two.

I've put about 10-12 hours on the unit and I don't have any issues with the unit (keeping my fingers crossed). It is the updated unit with the lit remote and new firmware.

Got my projector from ProjectorPeople. Great service, support and quick shipment.

I highly recommend this projector. I was a bit hesitant to buy it because the price is so low, but this projector blew me away. The only issue is that you do want to keep the room dim to get that awesome picture.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Anyways quick question... how do people usually deal with power when ceiling mounting any projector? Do you need to get an electrician to install an outlet in your ceiling or can you just use an extension cord running to an outlet? Any restrictions on length/quality of the extension cord? I have ceiling tiles I can push up so running cables is not a problem.

Also, is a UPS a good idea? In order to prevent hard power loss to the PJ? Any particular brand/spec?

Once again, thanks for all the info guys! Can't wait to get rid of my 32" TV and get a PJ in place. Lots of movies to watch all over again ;-)
Welcome Shadow...

I was in your same place about 3 months ago and always assumed I would have the big 250lb box from Best Buy as well. My H30 has been up and running 3.5 weeks and is flawless. I am ecstatic with the results.

On the power questions- I think that budget will probably be your guide here. Having an electrician come in and wire up an outlet up there would be better than running a good quality extension cord up. Better- yes, essential- no. Same with UPS- if you can squeeze one in your budget- go for it. I am running a heavy duty 15' extension cord above my sheetrock ceiling back to a separate circuit in a laundry room with a Monster HT surge suppressor. (only theirs because it was left over after moving equipment) I ran the power the other direction from the signal cables to eliminate the possibility of interference even though the cables are shielded.

Hope that helps... Good luck!

Summary, why all the new users are very surprised and very happy with the image.

The H30 with it's six-segment color wheel and HT design produces an image very much like the expensive projectors (HD2's & HT1000) the HT1000 being to only HT designed XGA projector.

If you were to run a good DVD and a/b switched between these projectors. You'll be very pleased with the quality of the H30 and would wonder why you would want to spend another 4 or 5 thousand dollars for the other machines.

Yes HDTV will look more detailed with the other machines but a good HDTV feed won't look to shabby on the H30 either.

You really should know how lucky your are to have a DLP projector that can do what the H30 does for such a low dollar amount.

So welcome to all the new happy H30 owners that seem to be popping up here in the last couple or weeks. enjoy

-- Well I have decided to take a chance on another 'NEW' H30 and hope for the best the 3rd time around [ No Buzzing or Power Up/Remote issues ] . While my current H30 had been operating with no issues the last couple weeks it had another remote/power up glitch last night [ so its gotta' go :( ] . I was hoping the issues would be gone and I could just keep my current H30 since I have it all calibrated for my HTPC but it just isn't in the cards I guess . I now have 130 hours on the lamp and it actually seems a bit dimmer than when it was new [ even my wife noticed this without me saying a word ] . I would hate to think the bulb has lost lumen's at only 130 hours use but this is probably all part of the break-in period and related to the red-push with bulbs under 100 hours .


--- Boy , you sure have racked up the free bulbs over the past couple pages here Tom :D ... he-he . The H30 Marketing Machine hard at work !!! Just keeping you in-check there Tom ;) .


----------- Jason

I've been trying to get my H30 adjusted with the Digital Video Essentials disk. This one comes with a red and green filter in addition to the blue. Unless something is wrong with the green filter, I can't get the test pattern to look anything like it's supposed to. All the boxes are supposed to match in level, but they are all completely different. Either the H30 has a terrible problem in decoding green, or I'm going something wrong. The picture looks fine, and the blue and red filters look close. Has anyone else tried a green filter with the new DVE test pattern?

My other question, I was messing around in the service menu trying to see if I could do anything for the green, nothing made any real difference. I always write all my numbers down before messing around, but under the ADC menu, I wrote my green gain number down as 167, then for some reason I thought it was supposed to be 127. These numbers seem to be pretty much identical to what they were in my first H30, so if anyone has one of the recent units, can you take a look at what your green gain settings was? Anyway, I really like DVE, it has a lot more useful test patterns than VE did, except the green filter seems useless on the H30.

Rsmith- I had the exact same takeaway from DVE. The red and blue worked as advertised and the green made no sense at all. I was going to go to their website and try to find any clues but have not had time. I know my green could not be far off with the way my image looks.. huh.

Hey Guys,

Concerning that Component to VGA adapter. Does it have to be hooked in directly to the H30 or can I hook it into a VGA switchbox? Didn't know if it would only work if directly connected to the H30. Figured I would ask, as last time I didn't ask I ended up ordering the wrong cable, so this time gonna try and check first.
Thanks!

If you don't understand what I am asking, basically I want to run a long VGA cable rather than a long Component cable, hence the adapter would be on a switchbox at the end of the VGA cable near the DVD player, rather than connected to the projector with a long component cable run from the dvd player.
Thanks again!

Just wanted to give a quick update on my unintentional firmware 'downgrade'. Got a call from David at Optoma, he offered to send out a brand new H30, and just return mine.

I declined, and just asked that I be able to ship mine back next Monday and have it back no later than Friday with the proper upgrade and calibration done. He has arranged to have UPS pick it up from my house, it will be sent 'red label'.

I just didn't feel right about getting a brand new machine for their screwup - I do want them to be in business to develop the next great pj!

Oh, all the talk about 'buzzing' pj's - Mine did this on and off for the first 50 hours or so, havn't heard it since. No green bar, either, with plenty of switching between all the input formats.

John F

"Boy , you sure have racked up the free bulbs over the past couple pages here Tom"

lol, I never got a free bulb but I'm glad to see they're out there for just $300 and will probably go a little lower. I did get a cool souvenir yesterday my first and only authentic Ti DLP chip. Guess I could make a belt buckle out of it. :)

My recent post about how great the picture quality is just because I just got to see the H30 head to head with an HD2 and did already compare many times with the HT1000. No reason for anyone to hang there head low with the super image the H30 puts out.

On this new unit I got, there's no issues with a buzz sound but like I said I didn't notice it with the other until my wife pointed it out but it went totally away anyway. This one does have an excellent out of box calibration for and Interlaced signal, so I'll use this for 480i from my comcast STB. The progressive signal did show a little green&red which was easy to adjust with the RGB-advanced adjustments.

After I got the colors right I did notice for progressive that the 2.35 black bars weren't jet black like the mirrors off area surrounding the 16.9 image and lowering the user brightness wouldn't help. In the service area under DLP-brightness - rolling back RGB-bright to 27 each from 32 each made the bars jet black.

So everythings perfect now and was pretty easy after all.

Ryan, after you have the colors looking like you want them to, bring up a step pattern of grays. Look for any color being added to the shades of gray and use the advanced adjustment to delete any problems.

The contrast RGB will effect the lighter colors or gray and the brightness RGB will effect the darker colors of gray. You want gray to be gray with no color effects.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Rsmith- I had the exact same takeaway from DVE. The red and blue worked as advertised and the green made no sense at all. I was going to go to their website and try to find any clues but have not had time. I know my green could not be far off with the way my image looks.. huh.

Yea, I can't figure it out. I'm wondering if they didn't design the green filter properly. Like you say, the image looks great. I just wish I new where I was supposed to have the ADC green gain set, it's really hard to tell what was right. The image just seems brighter at 167 than 127. Does anyone happen to notice what thier factory ADC settings were on a new unit? I would just do an autocal, but last time I tried that it really screwed up the image.

Originally posted by hikarate
Hey Guys,

Concerning that Component to VGA adapter. Does it have to be hooked in directly to the H30 or can I hook it into a VGA switchbox? Didn't know if it would only work if directly connected to the H30. Figured I would ask, as last time I didn't ask I ended up ordering the wrong cable, so this time gonna try and check first.
Thanks!

If you don't understand what I am asking, basically I want to run a long VGA cable rather than a long Component cable, hence the adapter would be on a switchbox at the end of the VGA cable near the DVD player, rather than connected to the projector with a long component cable run from the dvd player.
Thanks again!
Wow.. same projector, same mount, same cables, what- now the same switchbox??? That's exactly how I have mine copycat and it works fine :D hehehe (just kidding of course)

Originally posted by rsmith4321
Yea, I can't figure it out. I'm wondering if they didn't design the green filter properly. Like you say, the image looks great. I just wish I new where I was supposed to have the ADC green gain set, it's really hard to tell what was right. The image just seems brighter at 167 than 127. Does anyone happen to notice what thier factory ADC settings were on a new unit? I would just do an autocal, but last time I tried that it really screwed up the image.

On both my Optoma-calibrated H30 and a stock one I checked out for a customer, the ADC green gain was at 172. That was the only setting that was consistent between the two. Using the green filter and DVE with my calibrated H30 gives the same results you're seeing. Adjusting to make it look right with the filter screws up the picture. However, I did notice this with the green filter and Avia as well. Go figure.

Quote : " No reason for anyone to hang there head low with the super image the H30 puts out. "

---- Certainly not Tom , the H30 throws a FanTasTic image [ I agree 100% there :D ] . I was just giving you a hard time , after all somebody has to ;) .

____________________________________

---- Yep the Optoma component to vga adapter works fine with a VGA switch-box [ plugged directly into the box ] .


-------- Jason

Originally posted by MikeSRC
On both my Optoma-calibrated H30 and a stock one I checked out for a customer, the ADC green gain was at 172. That was the only setting that was consistent between the two. Using the green filter and DVE with my calibrated H30 gives the same results you're seeing. Adjusting to make it look right with the filter screws up the picture. However, I did notice this with the green filter and Avia as well. Go figure.

Would you mind telling my what the blue and red gain were. Might give me a good idea if the 169 was probably right. It was just a lot higher than the other numbers. Thanks for the help.

There was a big difference between the two projectors with red and blue. One red was 179 and the other was 131. The blues were 179 and 119. ADC offsets were different as well.

Hi Guys

I'm sad to say that after having my H30 for just over a month I may not be a proud owner for much longer :(.

The projector never made it beyond the WAF (Wife Approval Factor)...in fact it never even made it off the start line.

After weeks of sitting in a box until I got a pull-down screen I finally got the whole system up and running last weekend.
My wife went out for a meal with friends on the Saturday night so I made use of the time and mounted the screen and ceiling attached the H30 using a nice little £7 mount from Argos (Works very well). Hid the wires in trunking and fired the system up.

The image quality on my 80" diagonal 16:9 pull down was amazing and everything looked neat and tidy - although the screen does look a little ugly haning from the ceiling (Not wall space).
To cut a long story short my wife HATES it....and I mean REALLY HATES it !! :(. She won't even watch a film on it ....full stop.

She hates the screen....she hates the PJ hanging from the ceiling......and she hates the big image - everything I love about it.

The only compromise we can come to is that I have to mount the PJ every time I want to watch a film, and even then I'll be watching alone due to her determination not to even be in the room when it's turned on.

As you can imageine this has caused some friction (to say the least) over the past week so in order to keep the piece I may have to sell the PJ and screen.

Anyway, enough of the sob story - I've not given up hope yet but the thought of a) watching films all alone, and b) having to spend 20mins mounting, lining up and focusing the PJ when I want to watch a film (Table mounting not an option due to children) depresses me and isn't the solution I'd hoped for when I purchased the PJ.

Women.....don't you just love 'em :)

What are her favorite TV shows? I got my wife hooked on Friends, Seinfeld, American Idol, The OC, Survivor. She can't live without the big screen now. Says you can see things better and it's sharper. Watching these shows on a small screen is now boring.

simong ,

---- OUCH ! :(

---- My wife loves HT but even if she didn't I would still have it :D . Women have plenty of things that they buy and do that are just for themselves so it sounds like there has to be a negotiation in your case ... best of luck to you there my friend ;) .


-------- Jason

SimonG

The key is to let her have some say in the decorating of the room etc. That's the way we handle it, wifey does the decorating, hubby does the technical, joint decisions are made about seating and everyone is happy. Wifey also had a problem with wires hanging down and looking "ugly" so hubby made a nice box to hide them from view and painted it the same dark blue of the ceiling that wifey picked out for the theater. You have to make her want to come into the room and she'll fall in love with the image that the projector produces and will eventually think it was her idea in the first place.

Has anyone switched to a programmable remote from the H30's remote? My H30 remote is giving me a lot of trouble. I can't get into the service menu unless I do it right from the H30 buttons. The up/down left/right buttons stick. Can I program all the H30 remote's features into a programmable remote? The H30's remote is just not worth the hassles.

As far as I know, you can only access the service menu from the unit itself, not the remote. At least my unit is like that. A programmable remote won't solve this.