"Infocus 7205 ---
1,017.1 Full fields
355.1 16 box checkerboard pattern"

Done with the Minolta. Boy that's allot different the the MFG specs of 2200.1. What was the reading CF's got?

Congrats on post# 6,000 Tom... I was hoping you'd get that.

Hey Tom;

Its been a couple of months on my H30. Still doing the hard power off with no cooldown but turning it off for the rest of the night. Still no buzzing, no mis strikes, no green bar, no orange light...cross my fingers. I havent tried the new firmware since all is good.

hey guys-

just wanted to update you on my H30 situation. After putting 200 hours on the bulb this month (it's my second unit - the first one had a bulb error), I went to start it up and the i got the bulb light. Optoma is paying for shipping so I guess everything is all right. I'm a bit annoyed that the same exact thing is happening to this one that happened to my first H30, but I guess I just have bad luck.

If anything I have babied this second unit more this past month, so I can't imagine it is anything I have done. Hopefully I won't get a bum unit next time.

-g

I never saw the orange light on the two I've had. The only reason I brought in my first one was so they could use it as a reference to figure out what the sync green bar problem was.

All I can say is if Optoma keeps giving you new machines your good. Because each time you start over on the bulb life. I put 900 hrs on the first one and I'm up to 500hrs on the new one. I'm sure many others are loging in some good time. Good luck

I watched Return of the King tonight, the H30 kicked some serious butt. :)
enjoy

hehe ,

--- I watched ROTK last night in HD and it looked fabulous :D [ ok , so I only watched half and then fell asleep ;) ] .


--- I had the orange light on my second H30 but it came back to life after a while of being unplugged .

--- Oh and I am now using the lens mask , and very happy with the results this time :) [ I must have not been getting it lined up properly last time I messed with it ] .


--------- Jason

someone needs to tell wing/optoma that they can't change features just because people request it. When they came out with the projector the original firmware made it a 16:9 projector because some people had requested that (bad move). Then people wanted 4:3 so they fixed it and made it work with both.

Originally, the h30 projected at the bottom of the screen when ceiling mounted to help people with high ceilings. Now they project at the top of the screen because people with low ceiling requested it, obviously upsetting the people with high ceiling. You'd think they'd learn if they change something we want the option to change it back.

I have a low ceiling and hopefully the new firmware will help... just worried about having to recalibrate the thing after firmware update. anyone live in dc with calibration equipment?

optoma stop releasing so many firmware updates, this isn't a video card. Just get it to work right with all the options it's supposed to have and release some firmware. don't keep changing it when someone requests a new feature. Also, is there a site or something where optoma tells us what is in each firmware release or what's new at least.

-demon4

someone needs to tell wing/optoma that they can't change features just because people request it. When they came out with the projector the original firmware made it a 16:9 projector because some people had requested that (bad move).

Hmmm... Wasn't this how the projector originally shipped? I don't think this would be considered a change in features. When a company develops a product, they are supposed to incorporate customer input.


optoma stop releasing so many firmware updates, this isn't a video card. Just get it to work right with all the options it's supposed to have and release some firmware. don't keep changing it when someone requests a new feature.
I don't see what the problem is. I think it's great that Optoma is taking note of the improvements that people are asking for. Would you rather they keep shipping out units with the green bar problem? What's wrong with adding features? If you don't want them, don't send your H30 in for the update.

Now I do have to admit I have a problem with the way that Optoma went about changing the offset. I agree that they should have an option to shift the offset. It's not fair to people who are H30 shopping and do their research at projectorcentral ahead of time. I would be pissed if I set my screen up and had everything in place only to find out that there was a new offset. On a positive note, the new offset will probably work better for the majority of setups.

I was just checking a all white field with the lens mask and don't have shadows in the upper corners. That slight angle when adjusting the mask worked. I don't use the tape becuase I use the 120" screen most of the time.

Wings still pushing for the digital shift which would keep everybody happy. From what I've seen the factory tune-up has the Interlaced signal tuned pretty well. Most were seeing color bias of green with progressive and a tuning of the advanced RGB's could adjust it. On the plus side just think of how many learned the proper way to use the rgb's. This is info is major and they can take with them for all future TV's or friends TV's that are in trouble.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Congrats on post# 6,000 Tom... I was hoping you'd get that.

Thx, while everybody was conversing on the minute and finer points of the latest low priced high speed colorwheel projectors I sneaked in a few posts. :)

Did I win!

Does anyone have the offset for the new C07 firmware. This is the one feature I have been waiting for before sending in my unit for a firmware update. I have my keystone down to 8 after lowering my screen as much as is aesthetically feasible, I just hope that moving the image to the other end of the chip doesn't create too much of on offset for me.

The other advantage I see is that my light spill will be on the lower part of the wall where my screen is. My walls and my carpeting are quite a bit darker than that of my white, sprayed ceiling. The WAF won't allow for a dark ceiling situation.

Thanks for any input.

Right around 12 inches now. It would be easy to check with your own projector. The spot at the top of 4.3 where the video starts will now be where the 16.9 image starts. For 16.9 a super low offset now.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
--- I had the orange light on my second H30 but it came back to life after a while of being unplugged .
I had my first orange lamp light 3 nights ago (as I posted Monday) after a quick power flicker. I left it plugged in (lamp off) for a few minutes until the fan stopped and then unplugged it for ~25 minutes and it came back no problem.

Which brings me to a question....

I was considering buying a new bulb and shelving my 400 hour one for the following reasons:

1) I see the end of the road coming for my relatively lucrative job so I have more disposable cash now than I suspect I will in a year or two.

2) With my luck- the bulb would blow on a Friday night so the earliest I could get one would be like Tuesday if I wanted to pay perhaps $35 extra for shipping.

Does this make sense? My 400 hour bulb is now ~95 days old so it is out of warranty anyway and I wouldn't do this for perhaps another month. Does anyone know if these things deteriorate if they sit on the shelf 1/4 used up? Any historical indication that a bulb for a given projector will drop at all in price in a year or so?

Thanks!

gottahavapj, why not shelve the new one? just use up yours until it's done. it seems to me that it might be a better solution.

You probably didn't hurt your bulb. The guys at Seleco had me yanking the power cord when we were trying fixes over the phone. They said it wouldn't hurt anything.

If you can afford one now it wouldn't hurt. Last time I looked around they were close to $300.

Originally posted by valkyrie
gottahavapj, why not shelve the new one? just use up yours until it's done. it seems to me that it might be a better solution.
But if they're 90 day warranty and you shelve the new one- you could potentially open it in a year when you need it and it's DOA. You would have no recourse with the seller IMO.

im currently using a sony dvd player which is about 5 years old
running rgb scart to vga on h30

would i be better running a progressive scan dvd player through component to this?
ive read here about players which do 720p, 1080i would one of these benefit the h30 performance?

one more thing dagamepimp might know, when im outputting to h30 from radeon 9700 pro using vga cable do i use 800*600 or 1280*1024 resolutions ?

thanks

How about picking up a Panasonic with Farouja Chip. A RP82, XP50, XP30. You have to hunt for one. I got a XP30 off of Ebay two weeks ago for $72. All these Pany's always look great. The upscalers are still finicky.

I think Jason was switching form the native to the high res and liked the higer better.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
But if they're 90 day warranty and you shelve the new one- you could potentially open it in a year when you need it and it's DOA. You would have no recourse with the seller IMO.

Makes sense. Now I know why I've seen many advertise their PJ with the old bulb in tow.

Originally posted by guitarman
Last time I looked around they were close to $300.
Was this from Optoma? I haven't started checking around for who else sells Optoma bulbs. Anyone know if an AVS sponsor does off the top of their head?

Cheers!

kennyb5 ,
--- You can use anything up to 1280x1024 but without any tweaking 800x600 will look the best [ 1:1 pixel mapped ] .

--- I am now using 1280x720p @ 60 Hz and with some tweaking in Powerstrip (v3.46) and adjustment of the phase & tracking (on the H30) I now have an AWESOME scaled 720p image :D [ has more depth than the 800x600 resolution IMO but it does take some tweaking as I said ] .

--------- Jason

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Was this from Optoma? I haven't started checking around for who else sells Optoma bulbs. Anyone know if an AVS sponsor does off the top of their head?

Cheers!
That was just fishing around on the web.

Still having a problem with my H30. The problem was a smearing, blurring effect on skin tones when using RGB.

Its only seems to happen in PAL DVD and not NTSC. If I change the output switch on the back of my Pioneer 525 it seems to sometimes fix it but then if I turn it off and back on the problem re-occurs. The switch allows me to change from PAL - NTSC and AUTO settings. I have tried a different DVD player and it has the same smearing problem. Its strange because turning it on and off once or twice seems to fix it, then if I turn it off and on again the problem occurs.

Was wondering if the Signal menu would fix this but theres no sign of it in the menus, is this only an option for component connections ?

Dont want to be switching my DVD player on and off till it works everytime I want to watch something.

I am switching on the projector first and then the DVD player as the manual suggests.

Anyone had this problem or know a way of fixing this ?

You tried the re-sync button each time? I do get the signal menu with component to vga.

Yeah Tom, I tried the re-sync button but it doesnt make any difference. It just seems to be luck when I get it working ok.

No sign of the Signal menu on my H30, I did have C05 and only two weeks ago had the C07 update applied by Optoma. Couldnt find anything to do with signal in either of these firmwares, not even in the Service menu. I take it the Signal menu allows you to change refresh rates etc ?

There's phase and frequency in the signal menu. An early on Scart user fixed his problems with a different cable. You're using the Optoma supplied adaptor?

Have some one out there pioneer 575, and use it with H30 and component.

How will that work for you?

A little off the current topic but... I just realized that I have never seen a post about someone having a dust blob on the H30. This is a GOOD thing of course since there are a lot of dust blob threads going around.

Maybe the H30 has a very good design in that respect?

We guestioned this early on and the company says they rarely receive any for cleaning. I guess they're sealed up a little better in the places that need to be.

Originally posted by guitarman
There's phase and frequency in the signal menu. An early on Scart user fixed his problems with a different cable. You're using the Optoma supplied adaptor?

Im using the scart adapter that came with the H30, in the scart socket of my DVD player, this allows me to use a 10m VGA cable to go around the room and directly into the projectors VGA input.

Originally posted by draags
Have some one out there pioneer 575, and use it with H30 and component.
How will that work for you? [/B]

Would be nice to get a newer DVD player with component outs, but a bit short of cash having just bought the PJ. Maybe soon though.

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

About a month ago my projector started exhibiting a strange problem . I was in the middle of watching a movie when all of a sudden a 1 1/2 " - 2" multi-colored stripe appeared straight down the middle of the screen . I immediately checked my connections on the component adapter and as soon as I reseated them the problem went away for about a week . Then the stripe started appearing again, alternating between a plain white stripe and the multi-colored stripe . Tapping or pushing on the adapter made the stripe go away generally for the rest of the movie, but now this little game seems to happen several times during a movie and is getting quite frustrating . It is not the adapter as I have tried replacing this with a new one and it does the same thing . Is this indicative of a bad mirror panel or something else ?

BrockH ,

--- Have you tried a different set of cables ?

--- Or try a different input to see if the H30 still does it ?

--- If it does the same thing on a different input then it should be the PJ itself having the issue .

----------- Jason

One thing I forgot to ask was what is Analog RGB ? My Optoma always picks up the Scart connection. Anyway of forcing it to take Analog RGB ?

Maybe then I will be able to see the Signal menu.

I haven't tried different cables or a different input since the cables have worked fine for several months prior to this and fiddling with the adapter itself makes the problem go away . However, I will give this a shot when I get home tonght and see what happens .

" Im using the scart adapter that came with the H30, in the scart socket of my DVD player, this allows me to use a 10m VGA cable to go around the room and directly into the projectors VGA input."

That was it people were having trouble with the DVD player being set right or able to send the signal correctly. I forget how they fixed it, whether with a feature in the DVD player or if they got a different dvd player.

Originally posted by BrockH
I haven't tried different cables or a different input since the cables have worked fine for several months prior to this and fiddling with the adapter itself makes the problem go away . However, I will give this a shot when I get home tonght and see what happens .

People hv had adaptor problems. Try some cleaning fluid on the adaptor and keep striking it.

Not with a hammer, cold work it.

Hi Tom
I have noticed the picture is not smooth very jerky when you watch a scene where the picture pans across the screen, I have it set to Progressive in the menu of the Phillips Q50
any advise

indiejones

I use a Q50 with a component to VGA cable. Don't have any problems with pans. What it you use the other component outs on the Q50 the interlaced side, what happens with pans?

I have only just noticed it so I will experiement, I connect component to PJ comp adapter, NTSC films I use Prog out but with Pal films I use conventional comp out on Q50

indijones

Is anybody else noticing that many of the problems that have been posted recently are from people using PAL sources ???

--- Maybe the H30 needs a PAL re-tune [ maybe some PAL specific firmware tweaks are in order ? ] .


------------ Jason

Forgot to mention. The C07 firmware has some added features in the User picture save setting area. Wing told me it was for other markets that have a signal problem. Austrailia for one. Remember someone brought up these new sitings just recently.

Ah , yes that's right (regarding c07) .

--- So then they already recognize the need for some added PAL tweaks [ besides us NTSC guys being able to have ' THEME-SCENE ' logo for our intro image ;) ] .


---------- Jason

I hooked up my newly acquired Panasonic XP30 last night. It looks great but is also sharp like the Q50. I found these adjustments in the XP30 for mosquito noise, 3Dnoise and one other noise thing. I pushed them to the max and got a smooth image. More like the CRT smooth I prefer.

Q50 users should look to lower the DCDI sharpness control also. See what you think.

Tom ,

---- Are you just an avid ebay'er or are you obsessed with stb. dvd players ? :D


------- Jason

I hooked up my newly acquired Panasonic XP30 last night


tom use user one because that would make the dcdi work and the pic will look more clean :) my set up in the xp30 controls are contrast 4

brightness 7
color 1or 3

with zoom off

i get a very nice pic with my h56a and i also had a nice pick with the h30



but i have another combonation " just for start up " and it will give you an easier time to set up contrast to brightness ratio for a desired tweaking for your liking

:)

I think you'll like the XP30 Tom. It's the same as my RP82 and they both have CCS turned off, so you don't get the flickering in saturated colors. Use Auto 1 and Normal (unless you want to use one of the User settings). Stacey Spears said a long time ago that the "Lighter"/"Darker" settings only work with 480i (not p), but check it out and see if you don't notice a difference. I don't usually use the noise filters, except with certain bad DVDs, but it does give you a smoother image as you noticed.

mike the reason i say use either user one or 2 is because the dcdi works on auto and when Micheal tlv came over before he calibrated it on that setting and the pic was smooth like a baby's bottom and when i do a calibration and some one has a xp30 i always use the user 1 mode and make sure you put zoom off . cheers enjoy .


but to each there own i guess :)

mike did you or tom test the h77 yet ?:)

Joe, if you're on Auto 1 it doesn't matter whether you use the User settings or the Normal setting. DCDi is on either way.

yes i know that :) , i am just saying what Michael tlv did and to be honest i just like using the player in that mode ,that is all ;)

If anyone is really bored I think a great tool for the community would be a boiled down version of the massive knowledge in this thread. Something like a "Tuning the H30 for Dummies" FAQ or something. anyone seen anything like that?

I'm looking to start really tweaking my h30 now that i've had it for a couple of months but I get lost and don't know even where to start in this thread :)

Sorry, I thought you were saying that you needed to be on User 1 or 2 to have DCDi. The user settings are great to tune the player the way you want, especillay if you have another source feeding the same input on your display.

I haven't seen the H77 yet, but I think Tom has one on the way soon.

Sorry, I thought you were saying that you needed to be on User 1 or 2 to have DCDi. The user settings are great to tune the player the way you want, especillay if you have another source feeding the same input on your display



yes that is my point ;) :D buddy ,but this player kicks some serious a$$ and if this player came with a dvi . this player would be even harder to beat on the market exept xp50 with dvi

at that time, but it is never a perfect world

You can never hv enough DVD players :)

This one was a Sunday snag while bidders were sleeping or playing tennis $72. I'm a little familiar with the Panys and had the RP82, XP50 also but sold them for $400 each when I went DVI from the Bravo.

Thx for the input I don't know what CCS is. I do know you the auto1 for best flagging between film & video. But I never did use the noise features and they worked good for me last night.

Shifty best thing is to start with Avia then let us know if you have any colors you'd like tweaked for a particular signal. Like if you see a green bias we can tell you how to balance it out.

cool, i'll try Avia, it's a little pricey but does anyone have a copy they are not using and are willing to sell to a poor soul?

Everybody needs Avia, it's only $39 on Amazon.

ok, and what about the lens mask and all. I have notice light spill on my ceiling mounted H30. I'm going to keep my screen in 16x9 format even when watching SDTV. Do I need to buy the mask or can I cover the lens with electrical tape? How much does the lens mask cost?

I want to try and maximize CR as well. thanks

Originally posted by guitarman
Thx for the input I don't know what CCS is. I do know you the auto1 for best flagging between film & video. But I never did use the noise features and they worked good for me last night.

CCS = cross color supression. It's a Faroudja feature designed to reduce artifacts from (to quote Faroudja) "high frequency luma components being incorrectly decoded as chroma signals, causing colorization where there should be none. This colorization can be detected in many types of “busy” scenes including tiled rooftops, herringbone patterned clothing, leafy scenery, etc." This is usually unneccesary with a good MPEG decoder like the old Pannys have and when turned on (like it is in the RP56), causes a "flicker" in saturated colors, especially bright reds.

ShiftyPowers ,
--- If you contact Optoma they should get you a lens mask for free [ I think you just have to pay the shipping ] .

--------- Jason

What is the correct offset for this projector? I can't use the 4805 because my ceiling is only 6'8" tall. I want to have a 52X92 screen. Thanks.

Originally posted by Jim McC
What is the correct offset for this projector? I can't use the 4805 because my ceiling is only 6'8" tall. I want to have a 52X92 screen. Thanks.

The older C05 firmware will be way to much for your ceiling height. Offset throws the image down over 2 feet when ceiling mounted. The newer C07 firmware puts the offset same as the 4805, about 12". This is assuming PJ is around 12' back from screen.

Another option for you might be the Epson Home 10. It has ZERO offset. So if the center of your lens is down 6" from the ceiling then the top of your image will also be down 6" from the ceiling. Might work well for you. It's LCD but gets nothing but excellent reviews.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
kennyb5 ,
--- You can use anything up to 1280x1024 but without any tweaking 800x600 will look the best [ 1:1 pixel mapped ] .

--- I am now using 1280x720p @ 60 Hz and with some tweaking in Powerstrip (v3.46) and adjustment of the phase & tracking (on the H30) I now have an AWESOME scaled 720p image :D [ has more depth than the 800x600 resolution IMO but it does take some tweaking as I said ] .

--------- Jason

Hey Jason;

Do you mind sending me those powerstrip settings. I think it can be exported in one step, Id like to check out the settings with my setup.

The following is what i managed to do in powerstrip
Jason: could you verify to see if im close enough
running these through h30 using laptop
seems to run fine.

I tried to do 1080i
but the h30 says out of range or something like that

PowerStrip timing parameters:
1280x720=1280,104,56,128,720,0,3,23,70174,7

Generic timing details for 1280x720:
HFP=104 HSW=56 HBP=128 kHz=45 VFP=0 VSW=3 VBP=23 Hz=60

Linux modeline parameters:
"1280x720" 70.174 1280 1384 1440 1568 720 720 723 746 -hsync -vsync

Guys, so what's the bottom line on the H30's PQ right out of the box? There are posts in this thread that praise the PQ but now we have the ISF thread basically saying it's a mess OTB.

Which is it?

That's a good question. In my mind, the PQ OTB is quite good. It may not be "colorfacts" good, but it's pretty darn impressive. Sure, if you play with colorfacts, you find that things aren't quite calibrated as good as they could be, but it still looks great.

I have yet to even finish a full Avia (I just did the basics) calibration, and everyone who sees it is still blown away.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Guys, so what's the bottom line on the H30's PQ right out of the box? There are posts in this thread that praise the PQ but now we have the ISF thread basically saying it's a mess OTB.

Which is it?

Bottom line is it's all over the place. Both H30's I've had had severe red push and horrid dithering blacks. The result is a crash course in calibration techniques for me. The good is I now have a little calibration skills, the bad is I spend’(t) a lot of time calibrating and not watching movies!

Others have also commented on H30's being way off...and I mean WAY off!

OTOH, my boss's older firmware H30 (the one that could not do native 4:3) was not too bad OTB, I only had to nudge a few numbers, but not much and it looked pretty good.

I don't think Optoma calibrates any of their H30's from what it seems.

They should include a AVIA disc for free in the box:rolleyes:

Fleaman

My first h30 was great OTB all the top screen shots on page 1 were with a avia tune.

My second machine looks the same with an interlaced signal as the first one. When I used a progressive player I got some green push so I lowered the green a little with the RGB advanced adjustments.

I saw the details in the shootout review and none of them show anything to be worried about.

Bottom line as people watched the actual images with each projector. They all said the colors looked more natural on the H30. Real looking greens and reds are very important for a more natural looking picture. Too much yellow making lime greens has been a bugger for DLPs for along time but not an end of the world problem.

The SD info was more important to me. I had a nice DT200 before I took a chance on a better screen door look from the SD image I saw on the web.

That's why I was so ecstatic when I first hooked up the projector and took all those screen shots. How could an SVGA machine have such a smooth and undetectable screen door. This is still one of the best things about the H30. Sorry to say the Z90's SD is just too broad, I had to defocus it and never liked that trick.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Guys, so what's the bottom line on the H30's PQ right out of the box? There are posts in this thread that praise the PQ but now we have the ISF thread basically saying it's a mess OTB.

Which is it?

The short answer is that it varies. The original units were all over the map, but the recent units I've tested look more consistant. The last three or four have been very good out of the box (but I haven't checked with Colorfacts or anything like that).

:) In short people say look at them Reds and Greens not will you look at that blue. lol

That's why I say not to worry.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
The short answer is that it varies. The original units were all over the map, but the recent units I've tested look more consistant. The last three or four have been very good out of the box (but I haven't checked with Colorfacts or anything like that).

In other words, the chances of someone plugging in their new OTB H30 and saying "My God that's messed up" is pretty slim?

And what are peoples opinions on the fan noise between the H30/4805 now that people have had a chance to listen to them both for a while? After thinking about all the problems both the H30 and 4805 are having (or had) I realize that they will all be covered by warranty anyways if I am unlucky enough to experience any of them. So I may as well jump in and buy something.

However, I won't be able to return a PJ because I think it's too loud. So what is the current consensus on fan noise? It also seems mixed. Some think the 4805 is still too loud but most everyone says it's acceptable. Would the H30 really be that much quieter during quiet scenes?

By the way, went out to buy an Epson Home 10 locally today and they were all sold out. My usual luck.

In other words, the chances of someone plugging in their new OTB H30 and saying "My God that's messed up" is pretty slim?

It seems to be the case lately, but there's always a chance.

However, I won't be able to return a PJ because I think it's too loud. So what is the current consensus on fan noise? It also seems mixed. Some think the 4805 is still too loud but most everyone says it's acceptable. Would the H30 really be that much quieter during quiet scenes?


That's a tough one Shadow. All I can say is that the 4805 measured about 1-2 dB higher right at the projector (away from the projector there are too many other variables for an accurate measurement at such a low level). Does it bother me? No, but YMMV.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
So I may as well jump in and buy something.
Go for it, no matter what it is. :)

For the record my H30 looked great out of the box on progressive and needed minimal adjustment. Svideo- interlaced had a rather strong green push that I've mostly eliminated but need to pull everything out to connect the DVD player to Svideo so I can run DVE on that.

Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman
My first h30 was great OTB all the top screen shots on page 1 were with a avia tune.

My second machine looks the same with an interlaced signal as the first one. When I used a progressive player I got some green push so I lowered the green a little with the RGB advanced adjustments.

I saw the details in the shootout review and none of them show anything to be worried about.

Bottom line as people watched the actual images with each projector. They all said the colors looked more natural on the H30. Real looking greens and reds are very important for a more natural looking picture. Too much yellow making lime greens has been a bugger for DLPs for along time but not an end of the world problem.

The SD info was more important to me. I had a nice DT200 before I took a chance on a better screen door look from the SD image I saw on the web.

That's why I was so ecstatic when I first hooked up the projector and took all those screen shots. How could an SVGA machine have such a smooth and undetectable screen door. This is still one of the best things about the H30. Sorry to say the Z90's SD is just too broad, I had to defocus it and never liked that trick.


Poor Tom, even when a certified ISF technician with years of experience says the 4805 is better in almost all respect he just can't admit it could be right. The H30 is good, but the 4805 is better. That's just the way it is. It's not that big of a deal. In fact threads like the shootout are a good thing, if people just keep buying the H30, Optoma would never improve. They really need to start calibrating these things better, it's their fault. I remember even to my untrained eyes I immediately saw red in black on both my H30's and dithering blacks until I tweaked the service menu, the 4805 seems perfect. I haven't had to touch the colors or even desire the service menu. It's a really nice thing. It's impossible to get colors right without training. Let the sales drop off, and that will make them want to do better, and we all benefit. That's what is so great about competition. But blindly insisting the H30 is better anyway is not going to help Optoma improve, they do read these forums. However if you are secretly a Optoma rep then we can understand why.

This person is on your Ignore list. lol

Wonder why!

What's with all the hate? Already we have seen the 4805 has some issues too. Are you just trying to defend your new purchase since you switched? Bottom line is their both very nice and odds are you will get a decently built unit from either. So maybe Tom feels that it still is a great projector and is a little overly optomistic at times. Sure beats some of the overly negative posts people have made on some pretty minor issues which really scare the crap out of potential buyers of any projector. I can't believe how picky some people have been considering these are low-end products, go over to the other forums. Have you guys looked in the other forums at the issues posted? There are just as many posts on the top of the line stuff with some of the same problems we are seeing. So it looks like they are actually doing a damn fine job on these cheaper units. Sorry for ranting, but we really need a little perspective here.

Originally posted by rsmith4321
Poor Tom, even when a certified ISF technician with years of experience says the 4805 is better in almost all respect he just can't admit it could be right. The H30 is good, but the 4805 is better. That's just the way it is. It's not that big of a deal. In fact threads like the shootout are a good thing, if people just keep buying the H30, Optoma would never improve. They really need to start calibrating these things better, it's their fault. I remember even to my untrained eyes I immediately saw red in black on both my H30's and dithering blacks until I tweaked the service menu, the 4805 seems perfect. I haven't had to touch the colors or even desire the service menu. It's a really nice thing. It's impossible to get colors right without training. Let the sales drop off, and that will make them want to do better, and we all benefit. That's what is so great about competition. But blindly insisting the H30 is better anyway is not going to help Optoma improve, they do read these forums. However if you are secretly a Optoma rep then we can understand why.

Poor Smith doesn't know how to read. "Unknown" asked a question about the PQ of the Optoma OTB not for a comparison between the H30 and the 4805. Tom answered that question with his opinion, an opinion I share as I have never changed a setting on my H30 and enjoy it immensely. If you want to express your opinion of the PQ to "Unknown", why don't you do that!

Phil, you quoted my ignore list buddy now I see what he's saying. Typical stuff really.

Why do I like the H30 over the 4805. It's 4.3 ability and smoother picture (less digital) Colors on the 4805 I saw were presentation like. Lime greens and maroon reds. More natural with the H30.

As for as projectors and tune ups, they all need some tuning. The Sharp Z12000 OTB is 7800k, the Marantz 12s3 7200k. But they really don't look bad OTB. So Ryan you never got your H30 looking good?

Take a look at the Shire scene in LOTR, how's the color green looking?

Since both the 4805 and H30 have their pros and cons it is very safe to say that neither PJ is blowing the other out of the market . I think Ryan just gets too worked up over the whole thing and feels he needs to defend whatever he owns [ remember how gung-ho he was over the H30 at first and didn't he just claim his bulb was bad already on the 4805 and that he has some slight uniformity issues as well ] . I really do not think Ryan means anything personal by his comments he is just an overly emotional person by nature [ or so it would seem ] . Some people have an easy time taking out their daily frustration on the internet .

--- While I do agree that the 4805 is the over-all better PJ this should not down play how wonderful the image is on the H30 [ especially once it has great calibration ] , it just so happens that the 4805 is an exceptional PJ at this price point [ again this does not mean the rest in the category are bad choices ] . We each have our own eyes that tell us what looks best and this is why some still prefer the over-all image of the H30 vs. 4805 [ I know I still do ] .


----------------- Jason

Originally posted by MikeSRC


That's a tough one Shadow. All I can say is that the 4805 measured about 1-2 dB higher right at the projector (away from the projector there are too many other variables for an accurate measurement at such a low level). Does it bother me? No, but YMMV.

Thats an interesting fact Mike if you consider that an increase in noise level of 3dB is actually double the noise, for example 43dB is twice as loud as 40dB!

That would make the 4805 around half as much again louder than the H30, were they both in eco mode when you checked them?

Regards, MikeDes

MikeDes ,

--- That actually sounds very accurate to what I heard at the shootout come to think of it [ not twice as loud but close ;) ] .

--------- Jason

Hey Guys,

Let me ask a question about the pixel grid on the 4805. Is the gap between the pixels more than the H30? I have a friend who has an Infocus 5700 which uses the 1024 x 576 chip and I can see the pixel grid on his alot easier from the same distance with same screen size than I can with the H30 which is just 800 x 450. So some people are sensitive to different things as to why they would pick one projector over the other. I am not as sensitive as to the color temp being exactly at 6500k as I am to seeing that damn pixel grid. Sure I would want my projector calibrated to 6500k but you can't calibrate away that pixel grid. For such a low resolution projector I think the pixel grid is almost invisible from normal seating distances on the H30 which is the main reason after hearing Tom's initial findings that I bought a H30. So, can you see the pixel grid more on the 4805 than the H30?

Thanks,
Mike

mbw23air ,

--- Check the Shootout thread , very good info in there ;) .

--- Many people felt the SDE was more visible on the 4805 but this could also be due to the fact that it is a sharper image than the H30 [ and a bit brighter too ] . The H30 is certainly smoother IMO .

-------------- Jason

Originally posted by mikedes
That would make the 4805 around half as much again louder than the H30, were they both in eco mode when you checked them?

Regards, MikeDes

Yes, they were. Believe me, if the 4805's not in Eco mode, you'll know it. I can't imagine anyone being able to stand that noise level.

The 4805 being "half as much again louder" than the H30 is about right. Since you're starting with what is a relatively low dB level to begin with, so that amount of increase is not as noticeable.

Neither the small difference in noise or screen door would influence my decision about which projector to buy.

Quote : by MikeSRC
____________________
Neither the small difference in noise or screen door would influence my decision about which projector to buy.
__________________________________

--- Me either Mike which is why I am going to try the 4805 out for a while and see if it grows on me [ as the H30 did ;) ] .

------- Jason

There's a webpage that illustrates the differnece between a 1 dB and a 3 dB drop in sound level. Check out the sound files here: Sound Comparison (http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/~jw/dB.html)

Jason, I'd be most influenced by the same thing that's influencing you, the potential PQ improvement through the DVI input.

If the H30 has less SDE and less noise than the 4805, and more natural colors and a smoother picture then I can't see why I'd ever choose the 4805. I have no HD in my future, no use for the DVI, and the Pixelworks deinterlacer sounds mighty good if it passed Tom's tests. Might not be a Faroudja but sounds impressive enough for me. Besides, I'll probably have a faroudja equipped dvd player eventually anyways.

I'm just not seeing why everyone is jumping on the 4805 except for being caught up in "the Christmas spirit". Obviously I'm missing something.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
I have no HD in my future, no use for the DVI, and the Pixelworks deinterlacer sounds mighty good if it passed Tom's tests.

If I could say the same, and/or watched a lot of 4:3 material, I'd go for the H30 as well. As it is, I probably won't switch to the 4805 from the H30, but if I had neither one, I'd go for the 4805. If they put a DVI input on the H30 someday, I'll be all over it. :D

WHOA , yep a DVI on the H30 would have me there right along with Mike :D .


------- Jason

Thanks for the info guys, I really wish I had the chance to demo both of these PJ's. Buying sight unseen (and unheard!) really sucks.

Buying sight unseen (and unheard!) really sucks.

No, it's almost better that way. :) I bought my H30 sight-unseen, and I'm thrilled to death. It's an incredible projector.

Well worth the money, that I assure you.

Originally posted by valkyrie
No, it's almost better that way. :) I bought my H30 sight-unseen, and I'm thrilled to death. It's an incredible projector.

Well worth the money, that I assure you.

Same here. I love my H30. Once I move into my new house I'll finally be able to set up my HT the way I want (especially with a pimped out HTPC), rather than make do with what I have here in the Apt. Although what is set up here is nothing to sneeze at. Since I've had my projector I have already converted 3 potential Big Screen buyers into now proud and happy PJ owners. 2 bought an X1 and one the Benq 6100.

The arguing can go on about which one is better till we have a blue push in the face. Yes there are better PJs out. They all have their pros and cons. There will always be better PJs out there. You go with the one that YOU like. If you want it all then you will need to spend the $$ to get it. From what it seems like in the other PJ forums/posts, I have yet to see the perfect PJ (especally one in this price range). But if you are not happy with your purchase no need to spit venom and infect others.

Ryan- did you go off your medication again? You had been showing signs of improvement for a few weeks, to bad.

Tom- methinks you are trying a little to hard though to defend a projector that no one is really throwing any serious darts at. Everyone that has seen both and shows any tendency toward an unbiased opinion has indicated that anyone looking for an entry level projector would be thrilled with either. If I didn't own anything right now I would still go for the H30 since my needs are much better served by a 4:3 projector for the foreseeable future.

Cheers!

This is very true, if you want low dollars and high quality and want to make use of a full size 4.3 then the H30 is the only choice. HDTV is being pushed up to 2010, quite some time ahead. I watch too much 4.3 on my projector to warrarnt a 16.9 machine right now. Tonight I watched UFC in 800X600 and wouldn't want it any other way. Maybe in 2010 I'll switch to 16.9.

If you have to have a 16.9 screen then the 4805 is your best low dollar choice right now. But who knows whats coming up in two months after Cedia. I know but can't tell. :)

Originally posted by guitarman
If you have to have a 16.9 screen then the 4805 is your best low dollar choice right now. But who knows whats coming up in two months after Cedia. I know but can't tell. :)
Tom - I would say at the very least Optoma owes you an H77 after all this! :)

They're going to let me try one for a few months. Not bad heh? I've seen it it's a fine projector but is 16.9 limited. ;)

Well, it's getting close to pulling the trigger on the H30. The reasons are that according to the shootout thread (H30 vs. 4805) one experienced reviewer said one very important thing (important to me anyway) that the color was better, that grass didn't have that neon look and the 4805 still had a touch of the neon glow. Iv'e had an Infocus LP350 now for for almost 4 years now and I can tell you that, although I have mitigated it with a pink screen and CC20M filter, I'm getting tired of that look. .

A friend just purchased an Epson S1 and brought it over, we did a side by side and although the 350 blew it away with filmlike smoothness the S1 thoroughly trashed the 350 in color. Is it me or do LCD's just simply produce better colours. Over the years I've seen newer DLP's and while the black levels were getting better, I found that the colors still resembled the 350, so, I thought, why upgrade. In any case I hadn't even been thinking of upgrading until we did the shootout.

I'm hoping things have changed, I really am a DLP fan and would like to remain one. I'm hoping someone with experience and understands where I'm coming from will chime in - does the color of the H30, from a totally human eye perspective, resemble the openness & naturalness of a good quality LCD image.

I LOVE the colors on my H30. Granted, it's my first PJ so I'm easily blown away but I've been to the theatre on occasion :-)

Because of my newness, I do have a hard time calibrating it for perfection though. At one point, I spent an hour using AVIA and those goofy colored filters and thought I had the RGB at 0% levels only to have everybody having green hair in the next movie I watched. Oops. It's certainly a learning experience for me!

While I'm at it, a BIG thanks to Guitarman, DaGamePimp, Newteqjoe and everybody else who participated in this thread. I too bought the H30 sight unseen based on the reviews (in fact, I had never seen a HT projector in my life) and I can only say WOW. I had no idea it would look this good. Next up, the panamorph!
Walt

Originally posted by GMancusa
Well, it's getting close to pulling the trigger on the H30. The reasons are that according to the shootout thread (H30 vs. 4805) one experienced reviewer said one very important thing (important to me anyway) that the color was better

I'm hoping things have changed, I really am a DLP fan and would like to remain one. I'm hoping someone with experience and understands where I'm coming from will chime in - does the color of the H30, from a totally human eye perspective, resemble the openness & naturalness of a good quality LCD image.

GMancusa, IMHO the H30 colour saturation is as good as comparable LCD projectors, I'm guessing that most of this is mainly down to the absence of the white segment in the colour wheel.

Having said that I guess the 4805 also has no white segment so the differences between the two projectors greens could simply be down to the physical nature of the green segments themselves.

Personally I reckon my H30 PQ was pretty good OTB and I havent seen the need to calibrate it at all although I did slightly back the colour off a wee bit but that's all.
After 3 months I still often find myself watching a DVD, shaking my head and thinking how could the PQ be that much better on this or any other projector irrespective of cost.


Tom I gotta say I'm with you regarding big punchy 4:3 pictures, I figure that the H30 gives me not only these at a full 800 x 600 but a cracking good 16:9 as well whereas projectors like the 4805 can only ever give a relatively meagre 4:3 at 640 x 480 within the 16:9 window.

For me the H30 display has it all, long may it reign.

Regards, MikeDes

I'm glad I'm not the only one that likes the H30 with a 4.3 screen. You gotta like using the 480native 16.9, 2.35 movies aren't so small anymore.

hello pimp,
with htpc if i change resolution or refresh rate h30 will try to resync but it will give me a picture where gray is purple.the only way to fix this is to press resync or change the contrast value,i know it's not the vga card coz it happens with my geforce2 and my new ati 9600xt,did this ever happen to you.what's the best resolution,refresh rate for h30.thank's for your help

Something else I'd like to ask, I checked the Canadian Internet price on the H30 about a month or two ago when I first started reading this thread. I checked again yesterday to get an update and it had gone up $200.00. When I inquired as to why, I was told that this is the upgraded version with lens mask, new firmware and lighted remote so the manufacturer has increased the MSRP. I don't recall seeing an increase in the MSRP, am I being hosed?

MSRP is the same it's still shows on the USA site as the best HT proejctor for under $1400. Shop around,

What was the Canadian MSRP?

Welcome back Jason to the H30 clan. :)

He's come to his senses and see's the H30 has just a little more to offer.
Welcome back buddy. :)

It's the gammer in him that brought him back. Hey maybe I'll hook up my Coleco to the H30 or Playstation One. I think I have a Colony Wars game or two left in me. :) 4.3/800X600.

actually I never left , but I was close ;) .

---- It really wasn't the Xbox issue that put me off the 4805 , it was simply the fact that the 4805 is too bright for a white walled HT room IMO [ such as mine ] . I am in an apartment for a while [ saving up for a new house with a dedicated basement HT ;) ] and I cannot paint the walls black . I have no desire to cover all my walls and ceiling with black material [ did that with the front wall already ] but I might consider black foam-board in 4' x 8' sheets :D [ stuff is expensive though ] .

--- Tom , now if you used an HTPC you could have all those old Coleco and Playstation games run on an Emulator [ as I do ] ;) .



---------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
--- Tom , now if you used an HTPC you could have all those old Coleco and Playstation games run on an Emulator [ as I do ] ;) .


Or if you mod your XBOX, but we all know that's illegal ;-)

Originally posted by guitarman
MSRP is the same it's still shows on the USA site as the best HT proejctor for under $1400. Shop around,

What was the Canadian MSRP?


I don't Know, thats why I asked . . . . . it's actually easier to follow pricing from the U.S. . . . . . Thanks for the reply guitarman:) .


This is such a long thread that I'm having a difficult time getting through all of it. I forget issues that came up 100 pages ago . . . etc. Would someone, that has a great deal of experience with this projector, be able to very briefly summarize for the rest of us, the main issues that are still outstanding with the projector and what issues have been corrected by the manufacturer?


Thank you in advance.

There has been some price changes. Projector People's price went up $100 several weeks ago on the h30. If you watch their prices some projectors change frequently. I have seen the z1's price move both up and down in the last 2 months.

Originally posted by GMancusa
I don't Know, thats why I asked . . . . . it's actually easier to follow pricing from the U.S. . . . . . Thanks for the reply guitarman:) .


This is such a long thread that I'm having a difficult time getting through all of it. I forget issues that came up 100 pages ago . . . etc. Would someone, that has a great deal of experience with this projector, be able to very briefly summarize for the rest of us, the main issues that are still outstanding with the projector and what issues have been corrected by the manufacturer?


Thank you in advance.

Although distributors sometimes change their pricing to dealers, there's been no change in the U.S. MSRP, or in the pricing to dealers from Optoma. Any price fluctuations you've seen recently are instituted by the dealers themselves.

I am seriously considering getting the H30, but lately Ive been reading about the InFocus 4805. Im not big on numbers, I dont get to compare many projectors side buy side in different light environments, and I dont plan on spending $300 to get IFS certified. Is the Optoma still a good choice without the IFS calibration? I am capable of using Avia or Digital Video Essentials to calibrate some.

Also, Fry's Electronics has had the H30 on sale the last two week for $1278 after $100 mail in rebate and $100 instant rebate. This is a few hundred cheaper than the InFocus projector, so Im really leaning towards it. Someone talk me into it for my final decision :)

-GK

Originally posted by Guru_Karma
I am seriously considering getting the H30, but lately Ive been reading about the InFocus 4805. Im not big on numbers, I dont get to compare many projectors side buy side in different light environments, and I dont plan on spending $300 to get IFS certified. Is the Optoma still a good choice without the IFS calibration? I am capable of using Avia or Digital Video Essentials to calibrate some.

Also, Fry's Electronics has had the H30 on sale the last two week for $1278 after $100 mail in rebate and $100 instant rebate. This is a few hundred cheaper than the InFocus projector, so Im really leaning towards it. Someone talk me into it for my final decision :)

-GK

Well then it will probably depend on what you are primarily going to use it for. Are you going to use it for: DVD, HDTV, Xbox/PS2 gaming, HTPC, Standard Cable or Satellite, All of the above? Do you prefer 16:9 or 4:3 ratio?

'Cuz it does all of the above pretty well, :rolleyes: :D

Some that have seen the 2 side by side say the H30 has more natural color tones. But the 4805 has the superior Faroudja scaler.

I know others can give more reasons. But if budget is a concern then think of it this way. For the same cost as a 4805 you can get a H30 + Price difference towards a ~$300 replacement bulb.

But for the price point, both are excellent choices.

Well well well, went to order the H30 yesterday and found out from Optoma Canada that the C07 firmware is not being installed on the latest H30's. C07 is apparently still in beta. So that means the H30 is once again off my list.

Actually it's now off my list for good since I am ordering a 4805 today. If I am not happy with the 4805 for some reason I may consider the H30 later if they ever start shipping units with C07 in Canada.

I should mention why C07 is a must for me... my room won't allow for the huge offset of the C05 firmware.

Gk, go try an H30 out if you don't like it you got an easy return situation.

You can't go wrong with either machine. They'll both do the best image in this price range.

Well well well, went to order the H30 yesterday and found out from Optoma Canada that the C07 firmware is not being installed on the latest H30's. C07 is apparently still in beta. So that means the H30 is once again off my list.

Can't you ship your H30 to Optoma and request the C07 be installed? That's what I did and I'm enjoying the new offset right now.

Oh, I didn't mean to imply MSRP changes. I just noticed that projectors are like alot of commodities and prices vary at retail according to supply and demand, and will change in both directions to the market.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Although distributors sometimes change their pricing to dealers, there's been no change in the U.S. MSRP, or in the pricing to dealers from Optoma. Any price fluctuations you've seen recently are instituted by the dealers themselves.

Originally posted by jeff442
Can't you ship your H30 to Optoma and request the C07 be installed? That's what I did and I'm enjoying the new offset right now.

Yes I can, but I'm not about to wait for my brand new toy to arrive, then immediately pack it up at MY expense and send it to Optoma Canada, who then forwards it to Optoma USA (firmware is not done here) and possibly end up waiting a month or more before I can actually enjoy it. Not worth the fuss.

Regarding the "out-of-the-box" picture of the H30, the last few I've tested for customers have looked very good. I doubt most people would find anything wrong with the picture. They all seem to be coming with sharpness at 50, but I turn it down to 28. Also, the contrast and brightness settings are too high. Other than that, color balance has been very good. It's overal setup may not be quite as good as the 4805s, but they're not requiring professional calibration either. I've done a few 4805's as well in the exact same room with the same source, so it's a fair comparison.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Regarding the "out-of-the-box" picture of the H30, the last few I've tested for customers have looked very good. I doubt most people would find anything wrong with the picture. They all semm to be coming with sharpness at 50, but I turn it down to 28. Also, the contrast and brightness settings are too high. Other than that, color balance has been very good. It's overal setup may not be quite as good as the 4805s, but they're not requiring professional calibration either.

The OTB calibration issue from the shoot out has always kinda bothered me somewhat.

Firstly correct me if I'm wrong but both projectors had over 100 hours on the clock so it's not right to term either of them as OTB.

Secondly it's fairly certain that neither manufacturer makes their own bulbs as the process is a very specialised one.

Thirdly we all know from experience that the performance of every bulb will differ to a greater or lesser degree having a direct affect on projector calibration.

So I'm having difficulties accepting that Infocus can anticipate and make individual allowances for each and every bulb so that the calibration is virtually spot on after the initial burn in.

Come on, surely that had to be down to luck, I'd like to see the results from a few more calibrations before I could accept that 4805's are all calibrated that well.

Regards, MikeDes

Some of these comments about OTB picture are really overblown and need to be taken with a grain of salt. Some of these are coming from people that haven't even seen the projector in person! Projectors are a luxury item and supposed to be fun, but yet people shopping seemed way too stressed out by their decision. Remember that your doing this for fun.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Regarding the "out-of-the-box" picture of the H30, the last few I've tested for customers have looked very good. I doubt most people would find anything wrong with the picture. They all semm to be coming with sharpness at 50, but I turn it down to 28. Also, the contrast and brightness settings are too high. Other than that, color balance has been very good. It's overal setup may not be quite as good as the 4805s, but they're not requiring professional calibration either.

Originally posted by kimocal
Well then it will probably depend on what you are primarily going to use it for. Are you going to use it for: DVD, HDTV, Xbox/PS2 gaming, HTPC, Standard Cable or Satellite, All of the above? Do you prefer 16:9 or 4:3 ratio?

'Cuz it does all of the above pretty well, :rolleyes: :D

Some that have seen the 2 side by side say the H30 has more natural color tones. But the 4805 has the superior Faroudja scaler.

I know others can give more reasons. But if budget is a concern then think of it this way. For the same cost as a 4805 you can get a H30 + Price difference towards a ~$300 replacement bulb.

But for the price point, both are excellent choices.

We aren't supposed to mention prices, but the 4805 is going for almost the same $1279 price that was metioned in the previous message. I don't get why it keeps being said the H30 is $300 cheaper than the 4805. It is exactly $100 cheaper retail, and by looking around they can be had for about the same price street.

And where did you get more natural color tones, everything I've seen and read the 4805 has much more accurate color out of box.

Originally posted by mikedes
The OTB calibration issue from the shoot out has always kinda bothered me somewhat.

Firstly correct me if I'm wrong but both projectors had over 100 hours on the clock so it's not right to term either of them as OTB.

Secondly it's fairly certain that neither manufacturer makes their own bulbs as the process is a very specialised one.

Thirdly we all know from experience that the performance of every bulb will differ to a greater or lesser degree having a direct affect on projector calibration.

So I'm having difficulties accepting that Infocus can anticipate and make individual allowances for each and every bulb so that the calibration is virtually spot on after the initial burn in.

Come on, surely that had to be down to luck, I'd like to see the results from a few more calibrations before I could accept that 4805's are all calibrated that well.

Regards, MikeDes

I've had two H30's and the out of box calibration was the same and very bad on both units. If you think you will get one calibrated better from factory than the tested unit you are fooling yourself.

And mine looks wonderful. What was your point again? We know you don't like the H30 already. I'm sure most of us would gladly read your posts if you would tone it down a little. Man, you sound angry.

Originally posted by rsmith4321
I've had two H30's and the out of box calibration was the same and very bad on both units. If you think you will get one calibrated better from factory than the tested unit you are fooling yourself.

The colors are better on the H30. It's one of the key things it can do better. The IF still has a hangover from the presentation vibe. Lime greens/orange maroon reds. Not awful but not as good as the Optoma color.

Originally posted by guitarman
Hi,
I tried to put a number on the picture different I saw between the 4805 and the H30, came up with about 10 or 15%. Maybe do to the better pixel match for DVD the 4805 looked sharper. What surprised me was the blacks and contrast were very good, making the colors nice and deep. An excellent picture overall.

You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say can be used against you in a court of law, or an internet AV forum.

Sorry Tom, I know it's a little out of context and therefore unfair, but I couldn't resist. :)

It all means nothing really, they're both better then the Sharp Z90 which was the only game in Town. Now we have to decent EDTV projectors to choose from. Name your pick.

About the blacks & contrast, I expected the 4805 to have gray blacks like the 7200. But it wasn't blasting bright like the 7200 so it was better. As far as viewing something like the Shire Scene, it will look better on the H30.

Tom,
Just like to drop off a line that my replaced H30 with c05 firmware, is behaving as intended. Its working without any glitch now. The quality of picture is close to my previous one.

thanks again

I've asked this once before with no luck . . . . . I just want to know if there are any outstanding issues of the H30. This is a very long thread and it's difficult to sift through all the replies to find out if there have been any conclusions to the posted problems. I know those of you that have followed this thread from the beginning would have the answers so if someone would kindly summarize, it would be appreciated.

I'm sorry if I sound like I'm just being lazy but I have actually tried to find my own answers, I have limited time to spend online and the thread won't print out as one long thread so I'm sort of stuck especially when I would like to get an order out soon.

No issues, just changes. The latest firmware puts the 16.9 at the top of a 4.3 screen lowering the offset greatly. The only problem is the factory sells out like crazy :) yesterday they told me there was one left in the stockroom :) Of course dealers could have their stock on hand and the factory has more arriving.

As far as fatal issues, any projector line could have a problem, bad bulb to dead pixels to dust blobs, power supply. With the H30 odds are super low you'll see a problem.

You got a warranty, use it. :)

Originally posted by Pisangbusuk
Tom,
Just like to drop off a line that my replaced H30 with c05 firmware, is behaving as intended. Its working without any glitch now. The quality of picture is close to my previous one.

thanks again

C05, this gives you a shot at using 800X600 pixels for 4.3. It works well and you can use 16.9native for all your widescreen video.

Originally posted by rsmith4321
I've had two H30's and the out of box calibration was the same and very bad on both units. If you think you will get one calibrated better from factory than the tested unit you are fooling yourself.

Gotta disagree with you there, my H30 was pretty good OTB.

Apart from turning down the colour somewhat the picture compared so favourably with that of my 28" Sony TV I'd recently set up with DVE that I didn't feel the need to bother and still don't.

The picture is so pleasing that any additional benefit is frankly not worth the hassle and IMHO certainly not worth the cost of the IFS treatment.

Regards MikeDes

Originally posted by GMancusa
I've asked this once before with no luck . . . . . I just want to know if there are any outstanding issues of the H30. This is a very long thread and it's difficult to sift through all the replies to find out if there have been any conclusions to the posted problems. I know those of you that have followed this thread from the beginning would have the answers so if someone would kindly summarize, it would be appreciated.



Well, mine still buzzes, but a little less now (meaning, it goes away after about 30 mins to 1 hour after turning on). Of course this is with the now old c05 firmware. I've been thinking of calling Optoma again to see what the new deal with the buzzers is....I haven't heard anything new about them on this forum, so I guess the new(er) units might of fixed this problem. The only thing is I cannot use the different offset that the current c07 firmware supposedly provides. I don't know if there is a way to get another H30 w/o the c07 firmware from Optoma....so I guess a call to Optoma is in order for me.

Fleaman

The only issues I've seen or heard of that showed up in more than a few units were the buzzing and the green bar when switching between progressive and interlaced or HD sources. Other issues like green push were solved awhile ago. Out of the all the ones I've sold, I've had one buzzer, one with color circuitry problems and one DOA. I've had one DOA unit out of the 4805s so far.

Thanks for all the responses to my questions. Here is some more information.

I would be using it for Xbox/PS2 gaming and DVD moviesmostly, HD is not in the near future for me. I am on a tight budget of about $1500 INCLUDING a screen. I have total control over lighthing in the room I'll be using it. The last projector I owned was a SharpVision(XV32?) LCD projector many years ago (about 8?). Because of this, I think anything I bought now would be better (to me) than what I had experienced.

I live in Houston, but I don't know of any places I can go view one of these projectors in action. Fry's has another Optoma (the 75?) on display, but no light control etc. Perhaps someone that lives in Hosuton and owns one of these wants to show it off to me? :)

Thanks again for the input, as many have stated, I think I'll be happy with either projector, and the H30 is cheaper by a few hundred, leaving room for a cheap $200 screen.

-GK

Oh BTW, I lost track of all the firmware changes etc etc. I started reading the thread and got to page 32 before I realized there were over 300 pages! heh.

Does someone have a chart or summary of all the firmware version/changes etc. Is there an easy way to see what firmware I would have on mine if I bought it from Fry's?

I guess what I am asking is, is there a Optoma Firmware faq?

-GK

An issue s/b something that just about every projector from the line has. Not just an occasional few. Wouldn't you agree?

You could put it that the 4805 and H30 hardly ever have any issue's.

While with some electronics the whole series will have the same issue. Like an audio dropout on a receiver or freeze up on a dvd player.

I've been away from this thread for awhile and am unfamiliar with the c07 firmware. So it reduces the offset vs. the c05 firmware? My room will have cathedral ceilings, so the higher I can ceiling mount the projector, the less I'll have to pay for a mount extension pole. Which offset would be the best for someone like me with a high ceiling?

Thanks.

Originally posted by Guru_Karma
Does someone have a chart or summary of all the firmware version/changes etc. Is there an easy way to see what firmware I would have on mine if I bought it from Fry's?

You'd likely get the C05 firmware, which enables the full use of the 800 X 600 resolution for 4:3 with a component video input. The new C07 version has the same offset to a 16:9 image regardless of how the porjector's mounted.

I have not seen an H30 from the factory with the C07 firmware yet.

Originally posted by WallyBR
I've been away from this thread for awhile and am unfamiliar with the c07 firmware. So it reduces the offset vs. the c05 firmware? My room will have cathedral ceilings, so the higher I can ceiling mount the projector, the less I'll have to pay for a mount extension pole. Which offset would be the best for someone like me with a high ceiling?

Thanks.

That depends. If you're using a 4:3 screen, it won't really matter. With a 16:9 screen and a high ceiling (like I have as well), the newer firmware would require you to hang the projector even further down from the ceiling or use more keystoning. Even with the c05 firmware, I have mine mounted to the back wall.

C05 = Full 800X600 4.3, 16.9 image is projected at the bottom of the 4.3chip, it also add letterbox support.

C07 = Full 800X600 4.3, 16.9 image is projected at the top of the 4.3chip, it also has letterbox support.

If you use a 16.9 screen there's a world of difference in the offset because of the postion of the 16.9 image. For 4.3 screen the offset is the same.

With C07 the offset for a 4.3 or 16.9 screen is about 12"

With C05 the offset for 4.3 is 12" but the offest for 16.9 is maybe 22".

You can figure you firmware by looking a the 4.3 native image if it's full screen 800X600 you have C05 or C07. Take look at a 16.9 image if the light spill is above you hv C05, if the light spill is below you hv C07.

Fleaman,
Right you'll have to express that you want the C05 firmware because it works best for your setup.

Wing told me again yesterday that the 16.9 image will look a little better with the C07 firmware due to the area that image is shot through the lens.

The why is the C07 16.9 image falls a little further away from the far outer part of the lens. Maybe when Mike gets one with the C07 he can compare.

Tom,

Any idea when c-07 become official in asia?

CHEERS

The firmware was initiated in Taiwan. I would think it's already available for you. You should call your home base, see what's up.

Tom, is the part number for the lens mask Y-OP7580A06001? I emailed Robert at Optoma and i'm trying to get the mask to control some of the light spill. Does anyone have a picture of what this part looks like?

Thank you,

That's the correct part number (actually, you can leave off the "Y-OP"). I posted a picture of the mask awhile ago. Here's the link to that post:
Lens Mask (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3686593#post3686593)

I hear Home Theater Magazine will have a H30 revue (next issue) and the H30 will be cover featured on the front page. Reviews are positive, but I guess you already figured that. :)

Geoffrey Morrison usual does Projector reviews, he's very competent and uses the best equipment to measure.

http://www.cine4home.de has one on their web site as well. In German, but bablefish will translate sort of.

mikedes,

Please enough with the misinformation about the shootout. Neither box had hundreds of hours on it. Jason was sparing hours before the meet in case he wanted to sell it. It was a brand new factory replacement-- not a repair refurb. My SP4805 demo had more hours put on it at the meet than it did since I took it out of the box. I had only turned it on briefly to show it to one customer, and calibrate it.

Stick to the facts. Try not even a decade of hours - nothing remotely close to hundreds. They were both factory reset before calibration. Consider yourself corrected - because you are wrong!

If you have ever worked in manufacturing you would be aware of something called statistical process control. Assuming a digital input - the only color temperature variation is going to come from each individual lamp. If you do SPC on your incoming QA - you will have a good characteristic of your lamp vendors color temperature and can set up your boxes manufacturing accordingly.

Every Infocus I sell is ColorFacts characterized - and they are consistently within 5% OOTB to the D65 greyscale standard. DaGamePimp's H30 was not even remotely close to that. Keep in mind that his was a specially handled factory return - you know DaGamePimp would have been all over Optoma if they screwed up his third one. So they made sure to get it especially right!

Keep in mind that calibration with AVIA/DVE for brightness/contrast/color/tint is not what we are talking about in an ISF calibration. That is just the pre/post step of an ISF - the bulk of ISF is getting the greyscale correct so it is not color shaded. Comparing to TV's is useless unless the TV is ISF'd - most of them are likely as blue grey as the Optoma is out of the box.

Of course you can argue that ISF is not important to justify your purchase - and that is fine. Millions of TV's are sold each year that are not evenly remotely close to ISF settings and people still watch them because they have no idea what a reference ISF setting looks like. Just realize that the ISF organization disagrees with that viewpoint that any color grey is OK and has spent the last decade getting some manufacturers and reviewers to have a more educated opinion. Also anyone who has their set ISF'd will also disagree with you that it is not important.

Here is a shot of my screen (complete w/temporary "white trash" black duct tape border) as well as a couple of pictures of the mount I described earlier in this thread. Sorry about the delay. My digital camera has been out of commission for a while. The blankets behind the screen cover the big double window. The dark fabrics on the walls and tapestries on the ceiling really squelched any light reflection. Complete light control combined with the darkened walls has really given the image some depth. While ideal for viewing, this "decor" would not work well for you non bachelors. With the height of my screen, just above the 3 tower speakers, you can see the need for the smaller offset provided by the new firmware. The H30 is mounted on a piece of white shelving, suspended by rope affixed to studs in the ceiling. Infinitely adjustable. This is what allowed me to easily transition to the new C07 offset. Simply installed longer ropes. Voila! No more keystone needed.

Front shot of mounted H30:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/21503projector_2.jpg

Side shot of mounted H30:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/21503projector.jpg

Screen:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/21503room_front.jpg

jeff442 what is the white shelving you mounted the H30 on, custom job? what is it made of?

Originally posted by xvader
jeff442 what is the white shelving you mounted the H30 on, custom job? what is it made of?

I assume it's some kind of MDF. It comes prepainted in white. Picked it up at Home Depot.

The shelf is a cool idea, you can move the projector around and take some of the frustration out of alignment. Sorta like a low buck projector slide. Hey plus you'll get great vibration isolation. I have my audiophile turntable set up in this manner. Isolation rules :)

Originally posted by guitarman
The shelf is a cool idea, you can move the projector around and take some of the frustration out of alignment. Sorta like a low buck projector slide. Hey plus you'll get great vibration isolation. I have my audiophile turntable set up in this manner. Isolation rules :)

Thanks, Tom. Because my setup requires the image to be higher up on the wall than usual, I couldn't go with a conventional mount. Prior to the CO7 firmware, I had the H30 right against the ceiling in order to throw the image directly above the speakers. The shelf design was dirt cheap, and allowed me to keep my 5 tower speaker setup. I can't complain.

Right the new offset. Most projectors have an offset like the C07. The Sharp Z9000 i had made me use an extender pole. The H77 is the same way, not for a flush mount.

After nearly giving up on my new H30 and HTPC (just wouldn't take 800x480), I gave Jason's suggestion a shot and changed PS to 1280 x 720 (ffdshow as well), and wouldn't you know it - the best PQ I've seen on my screen to date (of course I'm comparing to a lowly Z1 and a short stint with an X1). I know it's not 1:1 pixel mapping, and it doesn't make much sense, but for some reason it just seems to be the right rez for this projector. The only problem is that windows looks like pure crap (text mainly). Anyone running this resolution care to share their PS timings or any tweaks to the H30?

Thanks!

BTW - I really didn't expect the 800x480 H30 to displace my current budget pj (960x540 Z1), but it is a MAJOR step up IMO. A true testament that resolution does not necessarily equal picture quality. Now I just hope the thing doesn't suffer any quality issues.

"I gave Jason's suggestion a shot and changed PS to 1280 x 720 (ffdshow as well), and wouldn't you know it - the best PQ I've seen on my screen to date"

Must be the Pixelworks doing some magic. I glad you took a chance on the H30 up from the Z1. Must hv been all those reports saying it looked better than the Z2. ;)

The 3D picture makes all the difference, from one movie to the next. Movies like Dark City or Underworld are a pleasure to view on the H30.

Originally posted by jeff442
I assume it's some kind of MDF. It comes prepainted in white. Picked it up at Home Depot.

Thnks jeff, but I mean the white custom fit 'cradle' with vents, mounted in between the H30 and the MDF shelf. I believe you used it to help mount the PJ upside down as the lens is in the way to prevent the PJ frome being level if you simply put it on the shelf. Is my guess correct? and where did you get that?

Originally posted by xvader
Thnks jeff, but I mean the white custom fit 'cradle' with vents, mounted in between the H30 and the MDF shelf. I believe you used it to help mount the PJ upside down as the lens is in the way to prevent the PJ frome being level if you simply put it on the shelf. Is my guess correct? and where did you get that?

Nope. It's actually just sitting right on the shelf. I think the projector stays level, even with the lens protrusion. If the picture is tilted, you can compensate by slightly angling the entire shelf one way or the other. The shelf just rests on the ropes. Sounds precarious, but I've given it a good tug from time to time just for my own peace of mind. Solid as a rock.

Originally posted by guitarman
[BI glad you took a chance on the H30 up from the Z1. Must hv been all those reports saying it looked better than the Z2. ;)
[/B]

It's quite an improvement over the Z1 (although I do miss that lens shift!). I'm also surprised how good the H30 looks OTB - to my eyes at least. All the calibration banter in the shootout thread had me nervous. OTB, with a little AVIA tweaking makes for a perfectly acceptable picture for most people. Of course, I'd probably change my tune if it were side by side with an ISF'd machine. Some initial impressions:

-SDE isn't a problem at decent viewing distances (around 1.9x or so), but then I don't have great vision. Even with lower resolution, it's less noticeable than the grid on the Z1.

-fan noise on the H30 is low, but not quite as low as the Z1. The H30 has more of a low frequency tone to it, rather than just air moving. There is also a slight buzzing noise from the area around the inputs. The buzzing on mine is lower than the fan noise, and isn't audible from the front, so mounting it behind the seating area has made it a non-issue for me.

-focus uniformity is a little off on the H30. I measured every dimension I could think of when mounting this thing, but I still get a little blur in the lower right corner. It's only noticeable on text though.

-color uniformity may be a little suspect. Viewing the windows desktop shows the right hand side to have a ever so slightly "redder" tone to the gray menus.

-doesn't play nice with Powerstrip. 800x450 is seen by the H30 as 640x480. Not sure what the problem is here - maybe it's the Radeon drivers that are acting up. 1280x720 looks good, but definately needs some tweaking to make text legible. I still haven't got there - hoping someone will figure this one out.

-I can see RBE if I try, but it doesn't really seem to bother me. In fact, I get less eyestrain than watching the Z1 for some reason.

These complaints, of course, are nitpicking. My nitpick list for the Z1 would be pages long. Overall, the H30 image is beautiful, and smooth as glass. I can't speak much for the color as I don't know what it "should" look like, but it's pleasing to my eyes. Contrast is, of course, night and day better than the Z1.

A nice "upgrade" until the itch hits again:)

Originally posted by mjolson
It's quite an improvement over the Z1 (although I do miss that lens shift!). I'm also surprised how good the H30 looks OTB - to my eyes at least. All the calibration banter in the shootout thread had me nervous. OTB, with a little AVIA tweaking makes for a perfectly acceptable picture for most people. Of course, I'd probably change my tune if it were side by side with an ISF'd machine.

I did view yours on the same screen as my Colorfact calibrated H30, and they were fairly close in most scenes, so yours did have a pretty good setup right out of the box, something I've noticed more with the last few I've checked out.

Thanks for your comments and comparison with the Z1. ;)

mjolson, looks like your a DLP convert now. Next machine it's going to be tuff to give up the blacks and contrast.

Jason can help out on the PC tweaking.

I went into the service menu and changed the DLP Brightness and Contrast settings so that the r, g, and b were all equal (for example DLP brightness is now 25, 25, and 25 respectively; the contrast was around 53 each). I noticed an immediate improvement, but I have no way to measure it. Mine is an early unit, and the rgb's were all different settings. Anyone else get a similar result?

They weren't all at 32? I've always seen them at 32 from the factory. I've left them at 32 and just use the User RGB's if the basic brightness control didn't make black dark enough. What are you trying to do?

Well, mine weren't all at 32. I read about getting the blacks darker by lowering these, but I was more surprised to find that they weren't all the same. An unintended effect was that the colors looked a lot better.

I supose you could use the Avia pattern for brightness and contrast in the DLP area. But first setting the users to stock.

What it does look like by your numbers is you expanded the contrast overall. How does the projector hold up when testing blacks and white with Avia now (in the user area)?

This is mentioned elsewhere but since this is the moat authoritative
h30 thread .I thought I would ask here.
Is this Acer PD112 a H30 clone? specs here only it doesnt mention the colour wheel
http://global.acer.com/products/projector/spec_projector.htm
You might wonder as to what difference does it make,well here in the Uk the H30 is almost twice the US price whereas the Acer approximates to the
US optoma price.

Based on the lumen rating, it's more likely that it's a version of the EzPro 732 (http://www.optomausa.com/public/ezpro_732.asp). They're business projectors and have white segment color wheels.

Plus the on board audio and 35db level. That's not a bad projector but not really recommened for Home Theater. It's like the H30 but without any of the goodies.

After having a new c07 H30 I noticed more "noise" in picture than previously. First I thought it was bad cables, but then I did the following test:

I unplugged all cables and started up H30. "No signal" message came up and picture was completely black, even from close distance. So, everything ok.
I then plugged in cable and started my DVD. Now, when I shut down the DVD player or disconnect the cable, again "no signal" message comes up. But when looking from close distance, the black background is full of white (slightly green) dots, kind of snowfall in the black backfground.

It doesn't matter whether you have cables connected or not, and it doesn't matter which cable or source you use (haven't tried pure VGA though).

When I changed the (green) brightness I was able to get dots dissappear from black background. However, (when using Star Wars Episode 1 THX setup) this "snowfall" is still clearly visible in gray patterns.

Is this normal and do others have the same issue?

Sounds like mirror activity or dither. Lower the brightness level, either by the user, or advanced user RGB-brightness, or last resort in the service area trying picture, ADP, DLP --- Brightness RGB settings.

I tried this and advanced setting brightness (-6 to green) already did the trick - with black background. As a result, my screen is now perhaps too dark.

However, "snowfall" is still clearly visible in gray patterns (such as in brightness setup screen in star wars episode 1 video setup). I will try to deal with gray patterns tomorrow - it is midnight now in Finland. :)

Hi all....

Back from a weeks vacation. I've had way to much of kiddie amusement and water parks and way to little of H30 viewing in the last 9 days. :D Almost brought back the newbie "wow!" factor when I first turned it on. 438 blissful hours and still ticking..

So where are we at?
Jason decide what he is going to do on the H30-4805 frontier yet?
Is Kras done dissin the H30 for it's horrible OOB calibration yet?
Did Unknownshadow finally buy something? :)

Cheers!

Welcome back,

Jason and others that viewed his home shootout when Kras let him have the 4805 liked the H30 better. Plus he got a nasty headache after viewing the 4805 on his home screen for 15mins.

Kras has lost it on the OTB picture look, touting all projectors must be ISF'ed, not!

Unknownshadow did finally shell out for a 4805, don't know if he got it yet or has any of the 4805 issue's to complain about.

Lets finalize and end the debates with the H30 being best for covering the 4.3 crowd and the 4805 for the 16.9 crowd. Although the H30 can be used for straight 16.9 with a little light masking. But there's nothing the 4805 can do about showing 800x600 full 4.3 it's just not there. :)

Sounds like a very fair conclusion....

I was just talking with someone about ISF tuning up on projectors. His comment is in setups and ISF tuner can get the color temperature tuned but there's nothing he can do to make the projector do colors any better than it is capable of. The H30 is very capable in doing natural colors.

Quick calibration question: when using an HTPC what do you calibrate first? I've got the H30, Radeon 9800, and Theatertek - all with their own settings. Seems to me that they would all need to be calibrated, but since they all are interdependant that seems like it would be a nightmare. Any suggestions???

Haven't seen Jason Lately, he's the HTPC H30 guy. I think he does most adjustments in the computer programs first.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Did Unknownshadow finally buy something? :)


Well I called to order an H30 with C07 firmware because I need the smaller offset. But I found out that C07 is not being installed on current retail units. I would have to buy the H30, send it to Optoma Canada at my expense, who then sends it to Optoma USA, then back around the loop again. Wasn't worth the hassle.

So, like Tom already mentioned, I cracked and ordered a 4805. I'm still worried I might be bothered by the fan noise but I have to try something. If I find I can't get used to the 4805 noise I'll probably sell it and try the H30. Assuming C07 is on retail units then.

Haven't received the 4805 yet, will call my dealer tomorrow and see what's up. Anyone know if Infocus are shipping units now? I know they were sold out for a while there.

Echart, just re tuned and re reviewed the H30 and got the CR up to 1700.1 with perfect gamma and colors. That outta start some fireworks. :)

Good luck on he sound level, I didn't think it was too bad but my hearings a little banged up from Rock & Roll.

Hey, if you paid and they hit your card they should hv sent the projector.

Originally posted by guitarman
Hey, if you paid and they hit your card they should hv sent the projector.

Tom, remember I'm in Canada. Very few dealers sell the 4805 here and I had to pay in full before the nearest dealer would even place an order for me (they don't keep them in stock). I think the charge was on the card before I even walked out of the store! Buying a PJ here is a *LOT* more hassle and returning one is pretty much out of the question. This is why I've agonized over which one I should buy.

Spent way too many hours standing next to Marshall stacks myself but if anything I think my hearing is getting better, lol. Probably keeps the dirt loose ;-)

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Haven't received the 4805 yet, will call my dealer tomorrow and see what's up. Anyone know if Infocus are shipping units now?

They are here in the States, but just started this week. Your dealer should probably have them by the end of this week or next week.

"Spent way too many hours standing next to Marshall stacks myself"

Then you should be fine.

Roady or Player? I was the first in my neighborhood to buy a Brand New smelly Marshall Stack in 1668 ($900). Just when they reissued the Les Paul Custom (Black Beauty) ($500) which I snagged also. Early Marshalls had to be up at 8 to get that Jimmy Page sustain. I'd be 10times louder than any other members of the band, but hey! :)

You should be extremely happy with your new projector. These two models are really 80% picture wise of the top HD2+ models. I have an H77 setup right now to compare, so I know for sure. When you get it you'll be smilin big time.
good luck

Originally posted by guitarman
Echart, just re tuned and re reviewed the H30 and got the CR up to 1700.1 with perfect gamma and colors. That outta start some fireworks. :)



With a lot of special work and a special filter he did. It takes a trained ISF technician to get the H30 looking close to right. I'm sure if you don't mind spending a few hundred dollars on top of the price of the unit you can get a really good, accurate image. The difference with the 4805 is that it's very accurate right out of the box. So I guess the H30 vs 4805 depends on if you want to buy a special, possibly expensive, filter and hire an ISF technician to tune it or if you just want a great picture out of the box. Actually the fact that it took so much work to get the H30 up to D65 spec is what is so sad, it's not a good thing as Tom tries to make it. Well, I guess it's good that now it is at least possible to get an accurate image out of the H30 if your dedicated to the task.

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
actually I never left , but I was close ;) .

---- It really wasn't the Xbox issue that put me off the 4805 , it was simply the fact that the 4805 is too bright for a white walled HT room IMO [ such as mine ] . I am in an apartment for a while [ saving up for a new house with a dedicated basement HT ;) ] and I cannot paint the walls black . I have no desire to cover all my walls and ceiling with black material [ did that with the front wall already ] but I might consider black foam-board in 4' x 8' sheets :D [ stuff is expensive though ] .

--- Tom , now if you used an HTPC you could have all those old Coleco and Playstation games run on an Emulator [ as I do ] ;) .



---------- Jason

That's funny, the brightness is one of the main things I like better about the 4805. Everyone has their preference. I would rather have a little too bright now and sufficient brightness later. I also have to use the PJ sometimes is a lighted room. The white wall issue is true with all projectors, not just a brighter one. Anyway, what is the big deal, get a lower gain screen or a filter that can be removed as the bulb ages. Even with the extra brightness the CR of the 4805 is still higher than the H30 I guess due to dark chip 2. What Xbox issue do you mean? I find the Xbox looks best on the 4805 and I've never had any issues at all with the image. In fact I can see detail that was lost on the H30.

Originally posted by guitarman
The colors are better on the H30. It's one of the key things it can do better. The IF still has a hangover from the presentation vibe. Lime greens/orange maroon reds. Not awful but not as good as the Optoma color.


Oh my goodness, I haven't looked at this forum in a long time. I need some of what Tom is smoking :) Where in the world did you get this idea? Actually it's more like the 4805 has a hangover from the high end units like the 7205. It's colors are far more accurate than the H30 from all tested results.

When you read Tom's opinions, you have to keep in mind that he has been around for a VERY long time, and his eyes may not be as sharp as they were 300-odd years ago. ;)Originally posted by guitarman
I was the first in my neighborhood to buy a Brand New smelly Marshall Stack in 1668 ($900).

Tom, your contacts at optoma, can you point them out to the FILM mode of the deinterlacer that is off par and working in video mode, I have seen that just as cine4home tested it with some PAL test dvd.

I notice it too when I play my dvd at progressive. Sure the implementation on the SIL should allow it but it seems the firmware seems to not take out the max of the chip (the denon dvd players with the same chip do film mode just fine)

Maybe you can pull some strings?

The H30 uses the Pixelworks chip, not the Sil504. You'll get the best image with a progressive signal and just using the pixelworks for stantard TV. That deinterlacer does do many things well though. More than good enough for TV, it's sharp and clear.

My eyesite is fine it's my hearing that's suspect. :)

And come on now Ryan the mojority said the colors are more natural on the H30. I just repeated what they said. Never buck the majority. :) Even Wing said you can tune projectors all you want but you still can't make a projector do colors beyond it's limits.

That's not saying the 4805 is awful, it's not. No use splitting hairs on either of them. Like the 4805 isn't too loud, it's sharp, it tuned well OTB. Just fine for any new user. enjoy

Actually it's more like the 4805 has a hangover from the high end units like the 7205. It's colors are far more accurate than the H30 from all tested results.
True, but that misses the point. You need to feel what the "vibe" of the pj is, dude...what's more, like, natural, man...it ain't easy bein' green, bro'...


;)

Originally posted by guitarman
The H30 uses the Pixelworks chip, not the Sil504. You'll get the best image with a progressive signal and just using the pixelworks for stantard TV. That deinterlacer does do many things well though. More than good enough for TV, it's sharp and clear.

My eyesite is fine it's my hearing that's suspect. :)

And come on now Ryan the mojority said the colors are more natural on the H30. I just repeated what they said. Never buck the majority. :) Even Wing said you can tune projectors all you want but you still can't make a projector do colors beyond it's limits.

That's not saying the 4805 is awful, it's not. No use splitting hairs on either of them. Like the 4805 isn't too loud, it's sharp, it tuned well OTB. Just fine for any new user. enjoy

Your completely missing the point Tom. They liked the image after it has a ISF tech tune it that would have cost a few hundred dollars. The 4805 was almost out of box accurate. I'm sure they wouldn't have liked the image otherwise.

In fact here is a quote "The SP4805 white balance is within 5% - maybe just tinged a tad cyan. Only the few % extreme enough to care about the few % need apply for ISF tweaking. This of course assumes a decent DVD player setup properly. The Optoma H30 on the other hand - is way off - majorly blue/purple white balance. ISF on the H30 is like a whole new projector upgrade - for only a few hundred!"

How many people do you know buying a $1400 PJ that are going to spend $400 on ISF tuning? And even with the tuning to the trained eye the 4805 still has the best image. And where are you getting that more people liked the H30, I read the same thread and got the complete opposite impression. I guess you read what you want to read. I've had both PJ's and the 4805 is much more pleasing to my eye.

Originally posted by Jack Gilvey
True, but that misses the point. You need to feel what the "vibe" of the pj is, dude...what's more, like, natural, man...it ain't easy bein' green, bro'...


;)

That's true LOL. But I'm getting the Infocus vibe!

Goodbye Ryan. It's astounding to me that you haven't found 15 things to complain about with the 4805 as you strike me as a compulsive complainer and grudge holder.

Go enjoy your 4805, I'm sure it is a great machine for those that prefer 16:9. I hope your bulb blows at 600 hours.

Originally posted by rsmith4321
Your completely missing the point Tom. They liked the image after it has a ISF tech tune it that would have cost a few hundred dollars. The 4805 was almost out of box accurate. I'm sure they wouldn't have liked the image otherwise.

In fact here is a quote "The SP4805 white balance is within 5% - maybe just tinged a tad cyan. Only the few % extreme enough to care about the few % need apply for ISF tweaking. This of course assumes a decent DVD player setup properly. The Optoma H30 on the other hand - is way off - majorly blue/purple white balance. ISF on the H30 is like a whole new projector upgrade - for only a few hundred!"

How many people do you know buying a $1400 PJ that are going to spend $400 on ISF tuning? And even with the tuning to the trained eye the 4805 still has the best image. And where are you getting that more people liked the H30, I read the same thread and got the complete opposite impression. I guess you read what you want to read. I've had both PJ's and the 4805 is much more pleasing to my eye.

I'm not denying that the 4805 is tuned better at stock, I saw it. But there is no denying that the H30 will be able to do colors a little better. I just posted a link over in the Kras shootout thread. Shows how many projectors could be made better. But they still have there own limitations. The reviewer after calibratiing advise that the IF7200 can not be recommended for Home Theater. At least the 4805 isn't so bright that it ends up with a 1000.1 contrast ratio.

Funny Jersey guy, better stay there bruddah. At Turty turd and Turty turd street. ;)

Well I have to be honest here ...

--- I have stopped posting in both this thread and the shootout thread because of all this non-sense bickering and I will not post in either thread as long as it continues [ not like anybody cares as it seems to be more fun to flame eachother :( ] .


*** Besides I am having more fun playing Doom 3 :D ***


----------------- Jason

I don't know is it me or do I keep getting egged on?

Most of the time I'm just talking about stuff and then the debaters chime in.

Nope, it's not me. I just re-read the last couple of pages.

Funny Jersey guy, better stay there bruddah. At Turty turd and Turty turd street.

:) Hey, I had a Marshall stack too.

Then you're ok :) I got my Marshall at Sam Ash in Brooklyn, the Les Paul at Manny's 48th st. Brings back fine memories.

Send be some Black & Whites from a Jewish Deli and maybe a Kanish or two. ;)

lol, I think I got that Vibe thing from my Brooklyn buddies way back in the Woodstock days.

Words like, Twisted, Cheezy, Vibe, This stone/that stone etc. :)

the Les Paul at Manny's 48th st.
I hit music row every few months...Mecca.

I have a Straocaster right here in my store. I jam all the time in between cigar breaks. :)

Other than trying to bash the 4805, not!

It's a super cool projector. More competion is on the way. Stay tuned

Originally posted by guitarman
[BRoady or Player? I was the first in my neighborhood to buy a Brand New smelly Marshall Stack in 1668 ($900). Just when they reissued the Les Paul Custom (Black Beauty) ($500) which I snagged also. Early Marshalls had to be up at 8 to get that Jimmy Page sustain. I'd be 10times louder than any other members of the band, but hey! :)

You should be extremely happy with your new projector. These two models are really 80% picture wise of the top HD2+ models. I have an H77 setup right now to compare, so I know for sure. When you get it you'll be smilin big time.
good luck [/B]

Neither Roady or Player actually. Just a fan that has an appreciation for loud Rock-N-Roll in small venues ;-)

I'm really hoping the sound thing will be a minor issue with the 4805. I just want my HT setup again, it's been out of operation for 3 months!

Tom, does your H30 get any hours at all now? Or are you trying to rack up as much time as possible on that H77? I just popped into the >3500 forum today and read your review thread. Sounds very impressive, I like the 24db rating! The H77 might throw a nice picture but man that is one UGLY looking box ;-) Optoma needs to check out the Infocus 777, now that's a cool looking box!

I still use the H30 but I ceiling mounted the other one, it's too big for a table. The look grows on you, it's digital.

Both me and Mark commented on how in low mode the 4805 is nice and quiet. You should be ok.

Originally posted by guitarman
I still use the H30 but I ceiling mounted the other one, it's too big for a table. The look grows on you, it's digital.


And judging from your review I think you'll be staring at the screen more than the PJ anyways, lol. Doesn't really matter how the box looks. Sounds like a nice PJ for sure. Just curious, what's the MSRP on the H77?

$8995.00, street prices should help that out some.

I hope your bulb blows at 600 hours.

Did anyone else get a good chuckle upon reading this?

Originally posted by guitarman
I have a Straocaster right here in my store. I jam all the time in between cigar breaks. :)

I play mine between customer phone calls. :D

It's been a long time since mine was hooked up to a Marshall stack though.

So, when's the Optoma Dark Chip projector coming out? ;)

Originally posted by guitarman
I don't know is it me or do I keep getting egged on?

Most of the time I'm just talking about stuff and then the debaters chime in.

Nope, it's not me. I just re-read the last couple of pages.

Hmm, let's see, you keep getting egged on do you for no reason LOL. Quote "The colors are better on the H30. It's one of the key things it can do better. The IF still has a hangover from the presentation vibe. Lime greens/orange maroon reds. Not awful but not as good as the Optoma color." I wonder why someone would disagree with you, I can't imagine why :)

Ok, well let me make a comment. The 4805 has much better picture quality and color than the H30, the H30 isn't awful, but it's such ancient technology! Now I don't really think this, but if you reply that you disagree with my statement you are just egging me on by your thinking.

Like we really need you to mess up this thread. End it.

Originally posted by jeff442
Did anyone else get a good chuckle upon reading this?

I did at first, but I don't think I'd wish that on ANYONE ;-)

Tom, I've always been a Gibson man (SG) , but I did own a Strat for a few years ( that debate, as you know, makes the silly H30 vs. 4805 stuff look like child's play!). Been neglecting electrics for years and just have my stash of acoustics left.
I recently played with my friend's PC recording rig, a Brian Moore solidbody through a Line6 pod into his soundcard using Cakewalk software and some downloaded backing tracks. My chops are all but gone, but I was impressed with the tone available going direct with this simple modelling box:

http://home.comcast.net/~jgilvey/Jack1.wma

Back on topic

Tom, I think the H30 uses the PW2200 scaling and deinterlacing chip which should support film mode deinterlacing, in the H30 it appears to just do video deinterlacing.
Implementations on deinterlacers vary, not every faroudja or sil or pw implementation is good, so this one seems ok but not optimal for dvd deinterlacing film mode. (I tested with peter-finzel dvd and indeed film deinterlacing is not active but passed on to video deinterlacing, thereby losing sharpness and gaining twitter) So maybe it can be done but just isn't done optimally yet on the H30.

Maybe wing should reminded of this? If its in but not enabled it could be good to close the gap with the FLI chips (like in the 4805)

What do you or anyone think?

vjren, the H30 uses a Pixelworks PW166 chip (see post here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3557038#post3557038)) for scaling and deinterlacing.

Are you saying that the deinterlacer does not perform 3:2 pulldown? I don't think that's the case. I'll take a look at it later. Maybe it's an issue with 2:2 pulldown on foreign films.

2.3 pulldown is the first thing I tested. I use the Star Trek Insurrection DVD and look at the panning rooftops in the opening. Excellent job done with the pixelworks chip. No jaggies

Also tested the poorly flagged opening of the Galaxy quest DVD, it passed this sequence also while many other chips couldn't.

Originally posted by guitarman
Also tested the poorly flagged opening of the Galaxy quest DVD, it passed this sequence also while many other chips couldn't.
Tom - unless I'm missing something, testing improper flags with a PJ deinterlacer doesn't make any sense to me. Since the PJ does not see the flags (only the DVD player does), what does the test prove?

The projector sees the flags if fed an interlaced source, ie: 480i from a DVD player.

The Galaxy Quest test that Tom mentioned is a sequence that's flagged as Video, not Film and the deinterlacer is supposed to stay in Film mode. If it doesn't (as many don't) you get a a jagged edge on the planets in the picture.

How are the flags encoded in the analogue signal going to the PJ? I was under the assumption PJ deinterlacers only relied on cadence algorithms when processing 480i. Am I incorrect?

The display (in this case the H30) has to digitize the analog signal, send it through a deinterlacing chip, and convert it back to analog. This is how the deinterlacing chips built in to most RPTVs work as well. That's why it's usually better to feed any projector a good progressive signal since it eliminates an extra A/D conversion step.

Yes, but does the PJ see the flags? I'd be shocked if it did...

anyone in dc/ baltimore area with color facts or avia wnt to help me calibrate? sounds like calibration makes a big improvement ? is there a way to send it to like optoma or tom's house so he can calibrate for me hehe...

The film mode deinterlacing on any DVD player or display is either flag reading or cadence reading, with cadence reading being preferred since so many DVDs are poorly flagged. I was under the impression that redigitizing the analog feed still includes the flags for those flag-reading outboard deinterlacers, but I'll have to check into that further.

The H30's not a flag reader anyway, which is why it's able to pass the Galaxy Quest test.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
I was under the impression that redigitizing the analog feed still includes the flags for those flag-reading outboard deinterlacers, but I'll have to check into that further.

Sounds like we have the research topic of the day :). If true, the flags would have to be encoded in the analogue stream in a way such that an analogue display could ignore them. It still sounds unlikely to me.

I still think my original point holds however. Testing poorly flagged material with a PJ deinterlacer is not a valid test. Even if the flags are passed, the PJ deinterlacer is always going to be cadence based since it has to deal with 480i from non-DVD sources, such as TV.

Originally posted by JeffKB
Even if the flags are passed, the PJ deinterlacer is always going to be cadence based since it has to deal with 480i from non-DVD sources, such as TV.

Good point Jeff.

You are correct sir. :)

Tom, any news on when we'll get a firmware that allows adjusting the 16:9 image position on the chip?

Don't want to send mine in for green bar maintenance until I get a firmware which doesn't put the picture on my ceiling :)

Hi Quarterbrain I got a replacement H30 about three weeks ago which already had the C07 firmware installed, I found the displayed picture to be positioned in exactly the same place as with the previous H30 running C05.

The proj was connected to the same ceiling mount and the picture was set to the same width of 6'.

I can be very certain of the positioning and size as there are picture size constraints at both the bottom and at both sides of the screen.

I always set the proj to 4:3 native and allow the H30 to control how it displays the various aspect ratios.

Of course the source is PAL (576 x 768) so that might also have something to do with it, it might be worth contacting Optoma tech to see if they can confirm if your picture will be higher or not with C07?

Regards, MikeDes

With 4:3, there wouldn't be any difference between the firmware versions. If you set the projector to 16:9, the image should now be at the top of the screen rather than at the bottom.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
With 4:3, there wouldn't be any difference between the firmware versions. If you set the projector to 16:9, the image should now be at the top of the screen rather than at the bottom.

Hi Mike so what's the difference in the two aspect ratio settings, surely either way pixels at the top and bottom of the DLP chip are in effect switched off, just different rows?

Regards, MikeDes

Flags only indicate on a dvd that the source is either progressive or interlaced, it is flagged bad when the progressive signal contains interlaced source and the dvd player does not detect that it still has to do the deinterlacing, it looks at the flag which says progressive which it is not.
I do not see how the H30 would get that flag (over YUV) , so it is of no concern..

Look I know Tom tested it al right, but there is a reason if ekkehart (from cine4home) find it to be mediocre if film mode deinterlacing is not done correctly. It makes it more soft and it shows on the examples I have. I also have a progressive player (V880) (alike Bravo D1?) and it performs better! (In the same test that is..)
So it can be better! Just needs the right software?

The spec says it only does temporal de-interlacing, sounds like no easy software intervention is possible.. or maybe..?

Latest info on the digital shift is it's 3months away. Any projector being sent in now will get the C07 firmware and sorry you can't request an old firmware. He did say if you wanted to reverse where the 16.9 image is you could invert the projector. Not ideal but it would work.

... anybody see the September issue of 'Home Theater' magazine yet ?

--- BenQ6200 vs. Epson Home 10+ vs. Optoma H30

--- Good issue , pick it up if you get a chance ;) .

------- Jason

I've been checking the mail box every day for my issue. Did Geoffrey Morrison do the review?

" The Optoma was clearly the winner " - Geoffrey Morrison

" In this price range , it's the Optoma H30 by a landslide " - Glenn Fields

--- Overall Rating = 92


:D
------ Jason


*** Before anybody FLAMES the Price range Quote [ behave Ryan ;) ] they did not have the 4805 there ***

Can't wait to read his calibrated numbers.

That is the funny part Tom , they found the same thing that kras's ISF did , Green is over-saturated . They also say that red is slightly yellow .

--- Here is the funny part , they say the H30 has very natural colors ;) .

--- They calibrated with a PR-650 .

--- Here is a good one that almost exactly matches the first cine4home review , the contrast ratio was 857:1 [ ANSI was 240:1 ] .

------ Jason

That's interesting, I really have to get my issue now. I want to see what he got on the 6200.

I got the Home Theater review yesterday and thought it was pretty good. The projector shootout in What Hi-Fi is even better! They do a comparison of 8 dlp and lcd projectors in the $1600-$3800 range and declare the H30 the winner. The August issue is on some newstands though is harder to find since it is a U.K. publication. They refer to Optoma as Themescene in Europe as well.

We are lucky to get the H30 much cheaper than the $2400 price shown for the U.K.!

Robert

The 6200 had a CR of 690:1 [ ANSI was 283:1 ] .

--- The Green and Red of the 6200 are a good bit off but it is closer to D6500 than the H30 [ actually the 6200 and the Home 10+ are almost right on D6500 ] .

--- The 6200 was the most accurate but they said both Red and Green are under-saturated and fairly yellow .



--------------- Jason

The Home 10+ LCD actually has a better black level than the BenQ 6200 DLP [ due to its iris theater black mode ] . The Epson had a CR of 773:1 [ ANSI 249:1 ] .


-------- Jason

Originally posted by mikedes
Hi Mike so what's the difference in the two aspect ratio settings, surely either way pixels at the top and bottom of the DLP chip are in effect switched off, just different rows?

Regards, MikeDes

Yes, the c07 firmware uses a different part of the chip when ceiling mounted, to keep the offset from the lens the same.

vjren, I didn't read ekkehart's review, but I've found the deinterlacing of the Pixelworks chip superior to the Sigma Designs chip (Momitsu/Bravo). The Pixelworks chip has motion-adaptive video deinterlacing (the SD chip does not) as proven with the Faroudja test disk. It also passes the other deiinterlacing tests I've tried.

Are you using disks that would require 2:2 pulldown? That could be a completely different story.

I'll have to pick up that issue. It's the same as my comparison except for the 6200 instead of the 6100. Jason, did they prefer the Epson overall to the BenQ?

Mike ,

--- Yeah the Epson scored higher than the BenQ [ Home 10+ = 91 / BenQ 6200 = 87 ] .


--------- Jason

That is the funny part Tom , they found the same thing that kras's ISF did , Green is over-saturated . They also say that red is slightly yellow .
Interesting...I imagine his 4805 numbers were dead-on also. Great info.

--- Here is the funny part , they say the H30 has very natural colors .
Well...over-saturated can look quite nice! That part's purely subjective.

Here's a pair of screenshots, same image one on the 720p machine the other the beloved H30. :)

Very close for DVD, maybe a little more detail for the 720p model. Overall the tone is very similar.

Same brunette shot but on the Optoma H30.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30under1.jpg

Now with the H77
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h77under2.jpg

Mike/Tom.

I have a PAL setup so maybe that is the issue, the SD in my V880 at least shows filmmode tests properly when connected progressive. If interlaced and H30 tries, it loses detail.

Hmm have to checkout 2:2 pulldown, film mode aka 24Hz versus 25 for PAL conversion is kinda hard, can you test is with PAL output, see what you get? (I mean that the Faroudja test disc maybe has PAL on it as well?

Hey Guys,

Has anyone else had a problem with their H30 as far as not powering up. I have now had this happen to me 4 times!!!! I just got my H30 repaired back 3 weeks ago from Optoma and tonight it won't come on just like it did before. When you try to power it up you hear the fan spinning and trying to start the lamp but after a minute or so it just stops and the fan runs for another minute and then it shuts down. I have had 2 different H30's as Optoma gave me a new one the second time it wouldn't come on.

Here is what could be causing it...let me know what you think:

H30 is in an upstairs bedroom, ceiling mounted using the Optoma mount with the pole. It is about 75-80 degrees in the room and unit is about 6 inches from back wall. Do I have it far enough from wall for vents to breathe? Is it cool enough in the room? I have owned projectors for 3+ years and I never pull the plug before it cools down and hardly ever do I start a projector more than once a day. So, is it something I am doing or am I just unlucky? I love the picture this baby puts out but now the frustration and unreliability of it not coming on has made it worth not owning.

Thanks for any help,
Mike

80 degrees, what kind of error lights are you getting? When you totally uplug and reset the PJ will it function normal? Reseat the bulb to make sure the contact is good.

When you power down leave it in standby, don't hit the power off switch on the PJ. Only use the switch if you're going out of town for a few weeks

80 degrees, what kind of error lights are you getting? When you totally uplug and reset the PJ will it function normal? Reseat the bulb to make sure the contact is good.

When you power down leave it in standby, don't hit the power off switch on the PJ. Only use the switch if you're going out of town for a few weeks

Tom,

I don't get any error lights after it shuts off after not coming on the power light just blinks as normal and if I try to start it again it goes through the same routine. Unplugging it does no good, it still won't power back up. I think on the second unit I had sometimes it would come on after a few tries and sometimes it wouldn't. I never flip the switch in the back I always power it off by the remote. As far as the 80 degrees thing, it is in an upstairs bedroom and we know heat rises. It is about 70 ish in the room but it feels just a bit warmer next to the ceiling. 80 would be the absolute hottest that room ever is and I might have exaggerated it by a few degrees as it is usually cool in there.

I have looked in the Optoma manual as far as how far away from the wall should the back be and couldn't find anything. How far back is safe for the vents to get plenty of air?

Thanks,
Mike

Oh, and I tried reseating the bulb. It has 3 screws that hold it in pretty tight to make sure. Plus all 4 have done this.

Thanks,
Mike

If you can't find an easy fix Optoma will have to send you a new machine. Yes you could say it's bad luck. But try this, when I laid out $4500 for the NEC HT1000 I got three in a row with dead pixels. Thought that would make you feel better and NEC's considered tops in quality. :)

Optoma has been great so far with rare dead pixels and only one so far recorded with a dust blob. Hang in there, get yourself a new machine/bulb everything.
better luck

Ummm ...

--- What am I missing here guys , there is no Power switch on the back of the H30 that totally shuts it down [ the power button on the H30 leaves it in Stand-by ] . Maybe confusing it with another PJ ;) .

--- I had the same issue on my second H30 a couple times but it came back to life after being unplugged for a bit .

--- I am on my 3rd [ and last ] H30 [ now perfect by the way ;) ] , so maybe 3rd time is a charm :D .

--- Best of Luck !!!
------ Jason

Guys, for anyone interested I finally got some 4805 impressions up over in the 4805 thread... thanks for all your help over the last few months.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4170909#post4170909

Whoops, I confused the H30 with the H77. :)

No start up, I think someone had similar problems and when the PJ did turn on he went into the service area and did a reset.

Originally posted by mbw23air


I have looked in the Optoma manual as far as how far away from the wall should the back be and couldn't find anything. How far back is safe for the vents to get plenty of air?

Thanks,
Mike

You should only need a few inches in the back, since that's just an intake and all the fan exhaust is out the front. Do you have a live source (ie: cable or satellite box) connected to the H30 when you power it up? That can sometimes cause power up problems.

Shadow - Thanks for the comments on the 4805. Hope you have good luck with it.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Shadow - Thanks for the comments on the 4805. Hope you have good luck with it.

Mike, a big thanks to you as well. And everyone else who helped me along the way. I'll be posting some pictures this week of my HT Room before I found AVS and after I found AVS. LOL! You'll all get a good chuckle ;-)

I have 70 hours on my h30.

I just switched it on and now I see a pixel in the center of the screen thats a bright white. Is this a stuck pixel?

I called Optoma and they said its 'within' expected limits. Upto 6 'bad' pixels is ok.

So what do I do, just stick with the stuck pixel?

Thanks!!!

Originally posted by ac2003
I have 70 hours on my h30.

I just switched it on and now I see a pixel in the center of the screen thats a bright white. Is this a stuck pixel?

I called Optoma and they said its 'within' expected limits. Upto 6 'bad' pixels is ok.

So what do I do, just stick with the stuck pixel?

Thanks!!!

Yep welcome to the beautiful world of LCD' s and carefully worded manufacturers warranties.

Joel

PS - Sorry about the pixel - that does suck

uh oh,So optoma won't give out a replacement if its 6 or less dead pixels..that makes me think twice about owning a optoma.I don't care what they think is within specs..If a customer wants a new unit because of 1 dead pixel they should get it.