That is interesting as I believe their policy a few short months ago was a replacement for even one dead pixel.

Joel, it's a dlp and not an lcd!!!

It really sucks, and its right there in the middle of the screen. And I've got just 70 hours on it!!!

So tell me, how do I get 5-6 more dead/stuck pixels?? :-)))

Anyone else have any experience with optoma on a similar issue?

I just read their warranty policy here -
http://www.optomahometheater.com/content/warranty.asp

Does not say anything about a dead pixel not being a defect.

Thanks.

Originally posted by guitarman
I think it's great Optoma has a no dead pixel policy. This is a sticky subject for many other models. MO is a bad pixels make for a lower resale value. You should opt for new one every time. This is a very super policy because pixel problems could occur at any time.

ROTK tonight right after American Idol. I made a deal with my wife and daughter that they could watch the final 2hr Swan last night on the 120" big screen, if I get no complaints tonight about sound levels of ROTK. :)

Tom, did you say Optoma has a "zero dead pixel" policy. How come they are saying something different to me. I have one pixel that is stuck at bright white. Not exactly a dead pixel, but then its not different also.

Thanks.

There was a user that got a replacement for a stuck pixel. Maybe you should ask for a mgr and impress upon him how this is a HT projector and the distraction of a stuck pixel takes away from the HT experience.

I heard the within specs from NEC when I had my first three machines had stuck pixels. The product manager stepped in and made sure I got replacements. The company had to make a distinction between a board room model and a HT model.

I'll follow up with them. Thanks Tom.

You should only need a few inches in the back, since that's just an intake and all the fan exhaust is out the front. Do you have a live source (ie: cable or satellite box) connected to the H30 when you power it up? That can sometimes cause power up problems.

I remember reading that it said to turn on the live source after you have powered up the projector and I have always tried to do this. I have a 4-VGA switcher box I use and usually switch it to a source that is not on when I power it up.

I have left the unit unplugged all day and I am away from my house tonight. I will plug it back up tomorrow and see if it will come back on. I have already contacted Optoma for warranty repair but I haven't heard back from them. Even if it comes on tomorrow I will still return it to them.

Thanks,
Mike

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Regarding the stuck mirror issue, if it's stuck "On", you should see a white (light) pixel if you throw up a black field. If it's stuck "Off", it should show up as black (or grey) in any color field.

Mike, I know this is a really old post but how often do you see stuck mirrors on DLP machines? And do you always get replacements for them? My new 4805 has 1 mirror stuck ON in the upper right corner. It shows as a single bright pixel when you throw up a black screen. It seems fine when displaying any color. Maybe it blends in then?

Anyways, I called my dealer today and he has never heard of this happening before :rolleyes: He is going to call the CDN distributor to see what the warranty procedure is for Canada.

I guess what I'm wondering is.... should I bother returning the unit for 1 stuck mirror? Is it common for a lot of DLP units to have a stuck mirror or 2? It's not noticeable at regular viewing distances but bugs me that my NEW 4805 has a dead pixel OTB. How has Infocus handled this for you in the past?

Stuck mirrors are not very common. If the mirror is stuck "On", it will probably only be noticeable with a solid color being displayed (especially the darker ones). I've never returned one to InFocus for that problem, so I can't tell you how that would work. You might want to check with Kras about that on the 4805 thread.

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Stuck mirrors are not very common. If the mirror is stuck "On", it will probably only be noticeable with a solid color being displayed (especially the darker ones). I've never returned one to InFocus for that problem, so I can't tell you how that would work. You might want to check with Kras about that on the 4805 thread.


Yeah, that's where I've been dealing with the issue. Just thought I'd ask you as well since you've been dealing with the 4805's too.

Robert's (mandarax) response was ... "On any dlp projector there is zero tolerance for a stuck mirror. So anyone should replace the unit. "

When you say you've never returned one for a mirror that is stuck ON do you mean that you don't think it's a big enough problem to warrant a replacement or do you just mean you've never had a PJ with a mirror stuck ON?

I've never returned one to InFocus. I have to other manufacturers though. I agree with Robert, it should be replaced, especially on a new projector.

"Robert's (mandarax) response was ... "On any dlp projector there is zero tolerance for a stuck mirror. So anyone should replace the unit. ""

I got a internal form sent to me by NEC stating only a group of bad pixels would be covered. But they did change and covered their first HT model. Sharp and Marantz had a similar statement. But with the Marantz they changed and started covering their $14000 model. Each company is different. I think Sharp still stands with the group of pixels policy.

Infocus does cover their high end HT projectors the 5700, 7205.

Ok, I tried to get away with green noise that was visible even though no signal sources were connected (see my previous post).

I just received DVE (digital video essential) disk. Now using the red/green/blue filters that came with it, it was pretty obvious that green was strongest color, then red and blue was clearly inferior color.

If I tried to change adv. settings brightness and contrast values, it did help but not enough. By increasing blue brigthness too much, it simply changed the black color to blue without making blue bright enough.

Is it possoble to change color strengths from somewhere in service menu. What are gain/bias values in service menu?

I've been addicted to this thread for the last six months- I'm finally 2 days away from pulling the trigger on the H30. Wondering if someone can answer one question tho.... I know it has the ability to center a 4:3 image in a 16:9 frame... Can it do this with a computer signal? Is it possible to have a 4:3 desktop centered in the 16:9 frame?

Originally posted by Vierimaa
Ok, I tried to get away with green noise that was visible even though no signal sources were connected (see my previous post).

I just received DVE (digital video essential) disk. Now using the red/green/blue filters that came with it, it was pretty obvious that green was strongest color, then red and blue was clearly inferior color.

If I tried to change adv. settings brightness and contrast values, it did help but not enough. By increasing blue brightness too much, it simply changed the black color to blue without making blue bright enough.

Is it possoble to change color strengths from somewhere in service menu. What are gain/bias values in service menu?


Gain=contrast
Bias=brightness

Also called cuts & drives with RPTV's
Drives=contrast
Cuts =brightness

The various RGB/gains/brightness in the service menu will effect all the signals while the user RGB's will just effect the one particular input you're working on.

Contrast RGB's effect the lighter part of video or 50IRE up.

Brightness RGB's effect the darker part of video or 50IRE down.

A good way to eyeball a 6500k grayscale is to freeze a vertical IRE gray pattern. This pattern will show you 10IRE steps from black to white in shades of Gray.

Any unwanted color in the darker area you work with the brightness rgb's.

Any unwanted color in the lighter area you work with the contrast rgb's.

These patterns are in Avia, not sure what DVE has. Even a needle pulse pattern will give you an idea if you need to take color out of the shades of gray.

Overall the concept is interesting. We're trying to make each shade of gray (gray) with no color tones. This will make the colors be at their best.

I posted this a few times but why not again. :)

Use the 50% format.

If you need to remove green lets say 4 clicks, stop make it just 2 clicks and in turn increase the red and blue 2 clicks each for balance.

The balance thing isn't written in stone either. Mostly I'll need to add a click to red while maybe cutting a click from the blue sometimes. Like if the face tones look a little purple.

Lets us know how it's coming.

Originally posted by Vierimaa
Ok, I tried to get away with green noise that was visible even though no signal sources were connected (see my previous post).

I just received DVE (digital video essential) disk. Now using the red/green/blue filters that came with it, it was pretty obvious that green was strongest color, then red and blue was clearly inferior color.

If I tried to change adv. settings brightness and contrast values, it did help but not enough. By increasing blue brigthness too much, it simply changed the black color to blue without making blue bright enough.

Is it possoble to change color strengths from somewhere in service menu. What are gain/bias values in service menu?
Vierimaa-

If I recall there were at least three of us that used DVE on the H30 (I'm pretty sure that Mike was one) that could never get the green test to look anything like it was supposed to. Red and Blue were no problem at all. For this reason I am also considering picking up Avia which kinda seems weird since Avia is now 5 years old and DVE makes mention of digital projectors, etc. Mike- you've seen both, what is your opinion? Did you ever make sense of the green test?

Cheers!

As a side note- I don't recall ending up moving any single adjustment for anything more than perhaps 1-2 clicks after several sessions with DVE. So much for all of them being putrid out of the box. :)

Originally posted by strangethingz
I've been addicted to this thread for the last six months- I'm finally 2 days away from pulling the trigger on the H30. Wondering if someone can answer one question tho.... I know it has the ability to center a 4:3 image in a 16:9 frame... Can it do this with a computer signal? Is it possible to have a 4:3 desktop centered in the 16:9 frame?
Atta way! Pull that trigger, you won't be sorry. :)

I haven't experimented much (yet) on the PC res variations like our buddy Jason (and others) have. I have a 4:3 screen and use the full 800x600 for the desktop and gaming. I tried to replicate a 16:9 screen and do what you asked and cannot. No matter what I do the desktop is full screen. I suspect that with something like Powerstrip that you can size your desktop to any res/size you want.

Help PC'ers! :)

Originally posted by strangethingz
I've been addicted to this thread for the last six months- I'm finally 2 days away from pulling the trigger on the H30. Wondering if someone can answer one question tho.... I know it has the ability to center a 4:3 image in a 16:9 frame... Can it do this with a computer signal? Is it possible to have a 4:3 desktop centered in the 16:9 frame?


---- Yes , just simply using the Window Mode will put the 4:3 PC image right in the middle of the 16:9 frame [ exactly as it does with any other source ;) .


------------ Jason

I can easily set the overall contrast and brightness using DVE test screen that contains four boxes (white, light gray, dark gray, near black) in black background. No problems at all.

With lenses, green looks very similar, but of course, green. Red produces darker look, and fourth near black square disappears. Blue is much more darker and only two lightest boxes are visible.

By modifying red/green contrast and brightness in adv. settings I can get red and green closer to each other, but not much. Blue is very difficult, and I can't get the third box visible.

DVE also has test pattern that contains two rows of different colors in white background. Through red lense, red looks as it should, blue also, but it is darker. Green however seems to be all over the other colors, also visible in blue color and all colors are visible (they shouldn't I guess) with different shades of green and even yellow.

All help is very welcome. I tried to make picture better, but it seems that adv. settings do not help that much.

If I change say red brighness/contrast too much, also white/black start looking red without really making red bright enough when compared to green.

Gottahavapj, you told that DVE green is corrupt, did your green behave similarly with color test? This puzzles me, because in gray test, it looks the best color :)

Awesome- I can't wait to see with my own eyes what this projector can do with my htpc & ffdshow. My buddy has the 6100- had a lot of fun bringing it over and tweaking it out. Now I'm finally getting my own- had planned on getting the 6100 also, but I've been reading this thread since the beginning and my curiosity is peaked- I have to see for myself how much difference the 4x rgbrgb color wheel makes in terms of PQ (and rainbows- tho I expect to see them just as often as with the 3x as I seem to be pretty sensitive).

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread-- Every post fed me a little bit each day-- and helped me finally pull the trigger. Can't wait to join the ranks... :)


--Frank

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
---- Yes , just simply using the Window Mode will put the 4:3 PC image right in the middle of the 16:9 frame [ exactly as it does with any other source ;) .

------------ Jason
Duh! Window mode was the only thing I didn't try. Kinda forgot it was there.

Thanks Jason!

Cheers!

Originally posted by strangethingz
Awesome- I can't wait to see with my own eyes what this projector can do with my htpc & ffdshow. My buddy has the 6100- had a lot of fun bringing it over and tweaking it out. Now I'm finally getting my own- had planned on getting the 6100 also, but I've been reading this thread since the beginning and my curiosity is peaked- I have to see for myself how much difference the 4x rgbrgb color wheel makes in terms of PQ (and rainbows- tho I expect to see them just as often as with the 3x as I seem to be pretty sensitive).

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread-- Every post fed me a little bit each day-- and helped me finally pull the trigger. Can't wait to join the ranks... :)


--Frank

Pick up a copy of Home Theater Magazine. I just got my issue yesterday. Stellar review with the H30 more than just bettering the 6200 XGA machine.

Again all panelists said.
1. Smooth picture with no artifacts or noise like the other machine. We've
been talking about this for months.

2. Super ability to show details in blacks in even a torture test dark video
scene.

3. Colors all very natural and not digital looking like other machine.

4. Adjustability, more available adjustability than some super high end machines.

Originally posted by guitarman
Pick up a copy of Home Theater Magazine. I just got my issue yesterday. Stellar review with the H30 more than just bettering the 6200 XGA machine.


I agree - good review, although short. One thing that stood out as odd- they mentioned more noticeable RBE on the H30 vs. the 6200. That's strikes me as strange given the faster color wheel and less brightness...

Maybe for the reviewer susceptible the higher contrast made her see them more. Several thought the H30 was brighter than the 6200, that's another ?.

The various RGB/gains/brightness in the service menu will effect all the signals while the user RGB's will just effect the one particular input you're working on.

Tom, so does the above mean that in service menu I only can change brightness/contrasts as already in adv. settings (but affecting all signals)?

This is bad news for me since it seems that brightness/contrast settings are not enough for my color problems assuming that I can trust DVE test screens and color sheet.

Originally posted by Vierimaa
Tom, so does the above mean that in service menu I only can change brightness/contrasts as already in adv. settings (but affecting all signals)?

This is bad news for me since it seems that brightness/contrast settings are not enough for my color problems assuming that I can trust DVE test screens and color sheet.

Yes but there's a few spots that will have RGB adjustments. Picture, DLP, ADP

ADP is only available with a progressive signal.

Try first with the user RGB's

I'm running a thread in the $3500up forum on grayscale tune for newbie's. You might get some helpful info there.

Aahh!

Isn't it good to see the H30 thread back on track again and enthusiasts like Tom, gotta and Pimp helping those in need.

Nice one guys.

Regards, MikeD

Thanks, Tom. I'll check out that article.

I know this has been covered before... but how do you feel about brightness uniformity? I noticed nothing wrong with the 6100. I'm hoping its a subtle thing that's not very noticeable... This quote makes it sound pretty bad like it's going to be gorgeous in the center and dull in the corners.

"Brightness uniformity is not a strong suit of the H30. We found brightness to fall off by as much as 40% from center to the corners."

I think Evan is going blind. lol

Since, I've viewed full white & full blue screens and uniformity is high corner to corner. Aren't they all or did just Evan get the bad one?

Another thing is Geoffrey's CIE chart. It showed what I saw on colorfacts. Red & Blue almost dead on and green a little higher saturated. Looking good.

I converted the Home Theater Magazines reviewed numbers into the objective measure I spoke of earlier in the latter part of the ISF shootout thread. HT mag only provided RGB coordinates and not CMY or D65 coordinates, otherwise I could have provided even more objective data analysis. But looking at the H30's contrast/D65 data - it does agree with what CineHome.de and my shootout found - that ISF and filter tweaking will make a difference in achieving spec.

I guess the Infocus SP4805 came out too late to meet their deadline - now that would have been interesting! I hardly think a HT DLP against a home/office DLP and HT LCD is considered fair competition! ;-)

I have a 8.5"x11" full color poster print of the CIE chart - with areas marked with official color names. You would be very surprised to learn that the SMPTE 'C' primaries are not what you would consider a natural Red, Green, Blue - they are in fact ReddishOrange, YellowishGreen, PurplishBlue. NTSC/ATSC both suffer from being able to represent many natural colors - because the dominant CRT manufacturers lobbied for something that their phosphors could handle!



So here is the more objective version of this review.

Optoma H30 SVGA HT projector - review said colors "fairly close"

SMPTE Reddish Orange was 17% more Reddish Orange vs. "slightly yellow"
SMPTE Yellowish Green was 58% more Yellowish Green vs. "slightly oversaturated"
SMPTE Purplish Blue was 10% to Blue vs. "fairly close"

Epson H10+ WVGA HT projector - review said colors "somewhat off"

SMPTE Reddish Orange is 3% indeed Reddish Orange vs. "slightly yellow"
SMPTE Yellowish Green is 28% more Yellowish Green vs. "slightly yellow"
SMPTE Purplish Blue is 23% more Purplish Blue vs. "oversaturated purple"

BenQ PB6200 XGA Home/Office - review said colors "off"

SMPTE Reddish Orange is 32% to Orange vs. "undersaturated fairly yellow"
SMPTE Yellowish Green is 30% to Yellow Green vs. "undersaturated fairly yellow"
SMPTE Purplish Blue is 10% to Blue vs. "off"

Obviously by looking at the data more objectively one can see that the reviewers subjectives comments do not agree with their own objective data. Maybe they too were trying to read the little CIE charts in the magazine - subject to offset printing error and unreadable without a magnifying glass! You see the tick marks on the chart are 0.1 - well your eyes and instruments can detect a 0.004 difference! Respectively those marks would be 100% and 4% on my error scale.

So the little charts are hardly readable for detecting differences between projectors that you can actually see!

In the case of this Optoma review and my shootout - I think it is clear that the deviation to more natural colors are "preferred" than the more "accurate" SMPTE-C colors. Some people like to crank color, tint, sharpness all the way up too in their color decoders - but that is clearly not the accurate image that the DVD mastering engineer sees! As to the DVD representing Mother Nature - that is another argument!

Vierimaa,

If you are using the RGB filters with DVE to figure out how much RGB headroom you can get to increase contrast - realize that trick is only valid for finding your limits so that you know to cut the gains, and raise the offsets - rather than using guitarmans cut one, raise two method. If you cranked the RGB menu all the way out - you would have a very blue white as the native white (brightest with highest contrast) is a quite blue 10000K. The trick here is knowing what your reference 6500K white should be so you know how much to work inward on the RGB's once they are maximized - if you live in NorthEast US - you can look outside at the clouds on an overcast spring day - otherwise you have no reference - without calibration tools that is!

Kill Bill II tonight boys, can't wait. :)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30bill1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30bill2.jpg

Tom, your screenshots sell me every time.

The color and video on Bill one was awesome. I hear Bill II is even better. First thing I do when I split tonight hit the Target stores new issues for $15.95.

Thanks for your explanations Kras. After reading both posts at least 3 times, I'm not sure what practical information I can take away from them though. :)

So you're saying we should all just throw away our DVE disks unless we've had training?

Sincerely though- thanks for your interest and info...

Just about to take the leap of faith and drop some coin on the H30. A couple of questions to all that scan this holy thread:

1.What output is capable with a DVI to VGA adapter? Can I choose anything better than 480P if the DVI source player is capable of sending various signals?

2.The bottom of my screen will have to be 36" from the floor; with the current C07 firmware, at what height would I need to ceiling mount my projector in order to have the pic at the bottom of the screen(16:9 85"x48" 15' from wall to screen)? I have tried to find the pdf file someone posted here with the offset (CO5 version i believe), but alas it may be lost in the depths of 6000+ posts. ;)

Thanks one and all...


~4 rubBeR

*edit: added screen dimensions...

Originally posted by Vierimaa
DVE also has test pattern that contains two rows of different colors in white background. Through red lense, red looks as it should, blue also, but it is darker. Green however seems to be all over the other colors, also visible in blue color and all colors are visible (they shouldn't I guess) with different shades of green and even yellow.


My H30 shows the same thing with this DVE color filter pattern. I can get blue and red looking perfect through the filters, but green is always way off. I think the consensus on this thread is that either the H30 decoder has intentional "errors" in the green section that can't be fixed via the menus, or the DVE pattern is messed up. I just decided to ignore green with the color filters and tune the blue and red only. I was able to get a very pleasing picture by doing that and tuning the overall brightness/contrast on the gray bar screen and some tweaks to the individual Red, Green, Blue contrasts (or brightness) to remove some reds in the gray.

Vierimaa, veggieguy

It is all guitarmans fault for saying in the other projector forum that you were talking about calibration over here again - which I love to talk about!

I don't use DVE (prefer AVIA) - I misunderstood the pattern you were using. I thought you were using a grey scale pattern - trying to max out the RGB using the Guy Kuo RGB filter trick to discover which to cut optically vs. digitally - that was what CineHome.de recently discovered - if you want to meet contrast spec.

I see now which pattern you are talking about - this is the color decoder pattern that says is the NTSC color decoder pushing red or green or blue!

Greyscale and color decoding are entirely seperate topics! However - they do interact slightly because color decoding depends on what the white balance is.

Here is how you can tell if your DVE color decoding is correct. We know if you set the Radeon HTPC video overlay to defaults it is correct. Thus we can avoid the NTSC color decoding errors entirely and stay within the RGB domain. If you use TheaterTek I can tell you what those settings are (7.5, 100,0, 100, 81) if I recall. Maybe somebody with a Bravo also knows proper video defaults. Send out your DVI (oops - sorry VGA - lets assume we have calibrated to D65 then) and the color decoding thru the filters should be correct. If it is not then either the DVE or the filters are incorrect. This is important to know - for example the grey scale full frames patterns in AVIA push green, only the window field patterns are correct!

I know with my HTPC the color bars and color decoding patterns are perfectly correct every time. With the cheap DVD player - always something off - just to hard to adjust with the DVD player and the projector both have adjustments for video.

Honestly if you want to use advance patterns for color decoding and greyscale - adjustments in the color balance menu - it really helps to learn color and video science. Everything is layered and interacts.

In laymans terms - think of color decoding as a colorwheel that is pinned to the color chart centered on the "white" of your display. Unless white is correct - the colors decoding cannot be correct - no matter how much you rotate or resize that wheel.

So get your greyscale balanced first - then worry about this color decoding pattern.

Am I making any sense?

I am not sure whether I understood everything, but if I understood correctly, my color balance will be (basically) ok if I can get white and gray scales as natural as possible.

Problem is my reference. I bought the DVE because it supported PAL, but I am currently using PS2 as DVD player via VGA-RGB scart cable. I am planning to buy a "proper" DVD player tough soon which should also provide better picture.

I have enough natural reference though, I live in Finland, and we have plenty of snow soon in wintertime to check that the whites are correct! I will also check Toms newbie grayscale guide. I think it might be good idea to make some kind of calibration for dummies - guide. :)

I started to calibrate since I had noisy blacks. It seems that I can get this noise to disappear little, but I still see some greenish noise either in blacks or grayscale. I will be away in weekend, and continue with this issue next week.

Tom, krasmuzik, thanks for your help.

Originally posted by guitarman
Kill Bill II tonight boys, can't wait. :)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30bill1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30bill2.jpg

Tom, funny you should post that today. I just finished watching Kill Bill vol 2 last night on the 4805. Looked amazing!

Thanks again guys for convincing me to go FP. There is NO turning back ;-)

Vierimaa,

Actually in Finland - the white clouds may be too cool! It varies with lattitude! Indeed D65 was created based on the white overcast day where the standard was developed. If that had been in the tropics- then the whites would be a lot warmer.

I guess if you are watching video of Flinland snow scenes you will get it right - since DVDs are mastered at D65.

They do make flourescent lamps with a 6500K color temperature - dunno if they are D65. ISF used to sell one for a modest amount before accurate colorimeters became popular. They may still do.


greenish noise in black will not go away. You can eliminate this in absolute black only (like black bars in CinemaScope movies). You can choose different gammas to add more black detail at the expense of image washout - and maybe the blacks will become more solid (but grey!). You can raise the brightness until black is solid grey at the expense of contrast. You can get a better DVD player with less low level signal noise.

This DLP problem is why HD2+ has the dark green segment in the color wheel - you cannot do near black well when you have to dither from a yellow green color wheel.

Using a screen size/gain that achieves 12ftL will reduce visibility of dithering - simply because there are less ftL in each black step. If you are using a High Power or SilverStar and are at TV rather than movie brightness - then there are more ftL between each black step making dithering more noticeable. Pop on a Neutral Density filter and you will see the dark black dithering is less of an issue.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Tom, funny you should post that today. I just finished watching Kill Bill vol 2 last night on the 4805. Looked amazing!

Thanks again guys for convincing me to go FP. There is NO turning back ;-)

I enjoyed the movie but liked the first one better. I think it was the sound track on the Bill 1. Some of those close up shots were so crisp on Bill 2.
enjoy your new toy, :)

I haven't heard many complaints lately about the H30. I guess the QC has been great, last I heard they were still moving 1,000 a month. Probably more will be selling after this magazine review.

Ok, thanks a lot krasmuzik, very helpful info!

greenish noise in black will not go away...You can get a better DVD player with less low level signal noise.

I actually noticed greenish noise on H30 black (in "no signal" screen) even if no signal sources were connected with "normal" setting. It disappeared when I lowered the brightness.

I guess I will have to live with some greenish noise. Or buy a much more expensive projector! :)

Using a screen size/gain that achieves 12ftL will reduce visibility of dithering - simply because there are less ftL in each black step. If you are using a High Power or SilverStar and are at TV rather than movie brightness - then there are more ftL between each black step making dithering more noticeable.

I have a cheap Draper Luma fiberglass matt white screen with 1.0 gain. I see dithering easier when wathcing TV. Especially night scenes where only few colors are used (for example, filmed with night vision camera) makes dithering very visible.

Originally posted by guitarman
I enjoyed the movie but liked the first one better. I think it was the sound track on the Bill 1. Some of those close up shots were so crisp on Bill 2.
enjoy your new toy, :)

I haven't heard many complaints lately about the H30. I guess the QC has been great, last I heard they were still moving 1,000 a month. Probably more will be selling after this magazine review.

I agree, I liked the first one better as well. But it still looked amazing.

By the way, I finally got some HT pics up in my gallery. Shows what my HT was like before and after I found out about AVS and then got tangled up with you guys and FP ;-)

Also have a few pics of how I mounted the 4805 using the 6" Panavise 826 that gotta and a few others used with their H30's. It's nice and solid, even with the heavier 4805. I grabbed the Panavise off Ebay for $5 bucks!

Looks great, now that you have your room done I see many more projectors in your future. ;)

has anyone been able to record the commands from the H30's remote into girder and then have girder blast out the commands through an IR blaster like USBUIRT?

I'm trying to consolidate all my remotes into one software remote that will run off my PDA or laptop. I've been able to record all the other different types of devices I have in my setup (HTPC, Receiver, STB). However, when girder learns the "Power" command from the H30 remote, it records it fine, but when you actually use it nothing happens. Anyone come across something similar?

Originally posted by ShiftyPowers
has anyone been able to record the commands from the H30's remote into girder and then have girder blast out the commands through an IR blaster like USBUIRT?

I'm trying to consolidate all my remotes into one software remote that will run off my PDA or laptop. I've been able to record all the other different types of devices I have in my setup (HTPC, Receiver, STB). However, when girder learns the "Power" command from the H30 remote, it records it fine, but when you actually use it nothing happens. Anyone come across something similar?

I just got my USB-UIRT so I should be attempting the same thing in the next few days. I'll let you know if I have success.

Anyone?

Originally posted by 4 rubBeR
Just about to take the leap of faith and drop some coin on the H30. A couple of questions to all that scan this holy thread:

1.What output is capable with a DVI to VGA adapter? Can I choose anything better than 480P if the DVI source player is capable of sending various signals?

2.The bottom of my screen will have to be 36" from the floor; with the current C07 firmware, at what height would I need to ceiling mount my projector in order to have the pic at the bottom of the screen(16:9 85"x48" 15' from wall to screen)? I have tried to find the pdf file someone posted here with the offset (CO5 version i believe), but alas it may be lost in the depths of 6000+ posts. ;)

Thanks one and all...


~4 rubBeR

*edit: added screen dimensions...

My first post...I have been reading through many of the posts in this thread and am on the verge of pulling the trigger and buying an H30.

The thing that is holding me back is concern about the build quality. These are my main concerns:

(1) I have seen many references to the green bar issue. Is this still a problem with the new units? I read that a replacement circuit board is in the works...?

(2) I've also seen multiple people have had problems with bulb failures prematurely.

(3) Lastly, on some other websites, some people have mentioned problems with sudden loss of signal and weird problems with getting the unit to power on. Are these isolated issues or a recurrent problem?

Sorry for the multiple questions. I just get apprehensive spending more than a grand on a product and see that people like DaGamePimp have gone through 3 (!) units. Fortunately, it sounds like Optoma has some great customer service.

Thanks!

Greetings 4 rubBer,

Welcome to the club :) I'm not an expert regarding the questions you've asked so I was waiting for someone else to chime in. I'll give it a go though...

Originally posted by 4 rubBeR
Just about to take the leap of faith and drop some coin on the H30. A couple of questions to all that scan this holy thread:

1.What output is capable with a DVI to VGA adapter? Can I choose anything better than 480P if the DVI source player is capable of sending various signals?

A few people have reported trying this with varying degrees of success. Realize that you can feed the H30 a higher res signal but it will scale it back down to something like 800x480 resolution. You would just need to experiment with your source.


2.The bottom of my screen will have to be 36" from the floor; with the current C07 firmware, at what height would I need to ceiling mount my projector in order to have the pic at the bottom of the screen(16:9 85"x48" 15' from wall to screen)? I have tried to find the pdf file someone posted here with the offset (CO5 version i believe), but alas it may be lost in the depths of 6000+ posts. ;)

Someone with C07 would have to measure. Tom indicated that the top of the image would be ~12" below the height of the lens with C07 but I don't think he indicated from what throw length that would be. How high are your ceilings? You may need to just get the projector in and try a few options. Also- if your screen is 16:9 the image will always fill the screen vertically. The only time the image shifts to the bottom (C05) or top (C07) of the screen is if you have a 4:3 screen.

Hope that helps... Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman
Looks great, now that you have your room done I see many more projectors in your future. ;)

Yes, I think you are right Tom!

I also see some dark curtains and a can of black spray paint for the ceiling tiles in the not too distant future ;-)

also see some dark curtains and a can of black spray paint for the ceiling tiles in the not too distant future ;-)
That would make more of an improvement than $5000 in projector upgrades. :) While you're at it...move that stuff and get an AS-F1 for your center...

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
Yes, I think you are right Tom!

I also see some dark curtains and a can of black spray paint for the ceiling tiles in the not too distant future ;-)
How's the WAF going so far Shadow? Does she watch you standing a meter from the screen staring at the dust blob and shake her head? :) Join the club... :)

Nice job on the Panavise mod by the way...

Originally posted by Jack Gilvey
That would make more of an improvement than $5000 in projector upgrades. :) While you're at it...move that stuff and get an AS-F1 for your center...

I dunno, that AS-C1 sounds pretty sweet ;-)

That's one of the very few high tech things we can get cheaper in Canada, good speakers! Those Athena's are a STEAL for the price. Amazing speakers.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
How's the WAF going so far Shadow? Does she watch you standing a meter from the screen staring at the dust blob and shake her head? :) Join the club... :)

Nice job on the Panavise mod by the way...

I've learned one very important lesson in WAF... "It's easier to beg for forgiveness later than to ask for permission now". At least with my wife. I've also learned not to even mention these "small" problems to her. Just keep it to myself and do whatever I have to do.

Yes the Panavise works great. I thought the 4805 might be too heavy but this thing could easily hold a 10 pound PJ as long as it's bolted into a metal receptical and not a plastic one. The H30 is an exception because it's so light, the plastic hole is fine for the H30.

Originally posted by UnknownShadow
I dunno, that AS-C1 sounds pretty sweet ;-)

That's one of the very few high tech things we can get cheaper in Canada, good speakers! Those Athena's are a STEAL for the price. Amazing speakers.
So- a little off topic but, I was considering upgrading at least some of the speakers in the Onkyo HTIB I bought. I had my eyes on some fine Canadian Axioms. The reviews seem to love them but the forums indicated they're good but a little bright. Any thoughts on those?

Cheers!

Originally posted by gottahavapj
So- a little off topic but, I was considering upgrading at least some of the speakers in the Onkyo HTIB I bought. I had my eyes on some fine Canadian Axioms. The reviews seem to love them but the forums indicated they're good but a little bright. Any thoughts on those?

Cheers!

Unlike my 3 month decision to buy a PJ, I heard the Athena's once and bought them at first sight. They sounded amazing and for a great price. Have never regretted it and they put a BIG grin on my face every time I watch a movie. So you can image how my face hurts now since I also have PJ grin added to speaker grin ;-)

Sorry but since my speaker shopping was limited I can't offer much advise there. Although I know Axoims are very highly rated.

I dunno, that AS-C1 sounds pretty sweet ;-)
Looks like you stay fairly close to on-axis...the off-axis response of MTM centers is what I dislike. The Athenas are stunners, and the recent price drops make them obvious choices.

Ha! Buying speakers- something I actually know about.

I've only been lurking around here about a month, and even bought an issue of Home Theater the other day for its review on the H30. But, I've been "involved with" (that means something less than obsessed with) audio for years. So, this is something that I can have an opinion on; as for video, I'm still reading other guys' posts and asking questions. So, here goes...

I'd never buy speakers based on reviews! Solid state components are another matter, but speakers are a matter of personal preference. Now, if you know somebody well and you know that you both like a certain quality in speakers, then you can safely buy speakers based on his advice. Magazines, no.

In Home Theater, for example, I scanned through my first issue and found an article praising Cary Audio equipment (pp. 78-82), a pretty nice article. On p. 22, an ad for the same equipment. Probably coincidence, but audio magazines are famous for loving equipment from their advertisers.

Now, back to speakers. I don't know the Axioms. Canada is famous for her speakers, but I remember thinking that the ones that I heard were bright. I consistently dislike bright speakers, and I'll hear a pair of speakers as bright when somebody else might not hear the same quality in them and love them.

Typically, if you go into an audio store and watch customers' reactions, if they're new to audio they'll LOVE bright speakers. "Listen, you can actually hear his fingers on the guitar strings. I never heard those triangles in that song. Wow! Those highs are just amazing!"

At the other end of the continuum, you'll see teenagers turn the bass way up, and love any speakers that have loud, boomy bass.

An analogy for me, based on the little I know about video, but just on my own reactions: when I first looked at high definition video in stores, I was wowed by how saturated the colors looked on lcd and plasma monitors. I also noticed that stores usually showed cartoons (like Antz), that emphasized cartoon-like colors. But, compare that to the more subtle, movie-like colors on a projector. (Maybe that's just the way the stores set up the monitors but, if so, they're playing to customers' preferences.)

All this to say, if you're serious about sound, LISTEN. And listen to lots of speakers, not just Canadian. Take a cd or 2 that you're familiar with, and listen in different stores until you know which qualities you like and can say why. Then, find a pair of speakers that you love, and use that as your reference. Then start listening to speakers that you can afford and compare them to your ideal speakers. Buy a pair that comes close in quality to your ideal. Price might not seem to have a high correlation (after a certain point, of course) to what you like.

For me, buying (or building) speakers is the most fun, even better than test driving cars. Now that I'm on the topic, maybe I should go to a couple of stores and listen.

--Steven

Ok guys/gals, I have a question. First let me say that I just scanned this thread and since it is very long I may have missed the answer to my question.

I was viewing screen shots in the opening posts and I see pixels every where. My question. Was this the result of a poor digital camera or is it plain and simply the inherit detail of the projector?
If the poor quality stems from the projector than for me, that image is horrible.

Craig

Goodmorning, what's new how do you do? guys/gals lol

Someone asked about all the problems? Haven't seen many lately, why I posted just recently looks like QC has caught up.

Originally posted by guitarman
Goodmorning, what's new how do you do? guys/gals lol

Someone asked about all the problems? Haven't seen many lately, why I posted just recently looks like QC has caught up.

Guitarman... are you saying those are old screen shots and the projector has been upgraded from the factory and now produces a better image? :)

I don't want to start picking, but that image was less than impressive in my opinion. Of course, I know screen shots are only as good as the camera and the person taking the pic's so that is why I was inquiring.

Craig

No I'm talking about the mechanics of the projector. Re the screen shots, ok so you're saying I did a lousy job. What can I say.
Lets end this little debate quickly. :)

Originally posted by Jack Gilvey
Looks like you stay fairly close to on-axis...the off-axis response of MTM centers is what I dislike. The Athenas are stunners, and the recent price drops make them obvious choices.

Yes, keeping the tweeters at the same level really makes a BIG difference. In fact, if you look in my gallery you'll see where my center channel was mounted on my TV previously. But now it is much more in line with the towers. The difference was pretty amazing for panning effects.

Yes, keeping the tweeters at the same level really makes a BIG difference.
I was referring not to the vertical alignment of the front tweeters but, rather, to the fact that your seating appears to be largely on-axis with the center channel. Go very far off and response changes drastically for the worse.

Originally posted by Jack Gilvey
I was referring not to the vertical alignment of the front tweeters but, rather, to the fact that your seating appears to be largely on-axis with the center channel. Go very far off and response changes drastically for the worse.

Yes, I'm very pleased with the sight and sound from all seating positions. Took quite a bit of measuring, calculating, pull out hair, etc but paid off in the end.

Got a question about keystone guys..

I have a low ceiling,If i get a H30 i may have to use some keystone.

Is minor keystone adjustment gonna mess up the PQ really bad?I am kind of picky..but if not that bad..than i don't think it would bother me

thanks

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
Got a question about keystone guys..

I have a low ceiling,If i get a H30 i may have to use some keystone.

Is minor keystone adjustment gonna mess up the PQ really bad?I am kind of picky..but if not that bad..than i don't think it would bother me

thanks

Not really. Mine is utilizing the keystone (2 or 3 clicks) at the moment as the projector is sitting on a shelf slightly angled directly above and behind the seating. Some say it will but for the most part you won't be able to tell. Once I move into my new house then I'll be able to ceiling mount it finally, woo hoo.

I never see any problems when I use the keystone feature. I used it with the HT1000, and now the H30. You know the new H30's have a much lower offest (firmware C07) you will probably get away with no keystone at all if you're using a 16.9 screen. The video will start about 12" down from the lens center.

Originally posted by suffolk112000
I don't want to start picking, but that image was less than impressive in my opinion. Of course, I know screen shots are only as good as the camera and the person taking the pic's so that is why I was inquiring.

Craig
To directly answer your question Craig- I have never seen a screen shot that matches the quality of the actual projected image. No offense to Tom and I think his shots do a great job of showing color saturation but some of them do definitely look more grainy and pixelated than the real thing.

If you go to the DaGamePimp's web site (link on his posts) I think you will see something closer to what I see in my basement.

No offense Tom!! :)

Cheers!

My ceiling is 7'3'' but where the PJ would be mounted has a ceiling of 6'11''
It can be mounted anywhere in the 12 foot range.

I have 3 B&W N805's up front and The center speaker might be in the way if i don't use keystone(or VERY close)

Maybe i could mount it much lower in ceiling positon..get a hammock mounted on my ceiling and watch tv on my floor lol

Pretty sure i'm gonna get it....hopefully it fits in with no or barely any keystone

Originally posted by utente
Ha! Buying speakers- something I actually know about.
--Steven
You make good points Steven.... My only problem is that I'm not going to find many opportunities here to listen to what I may want to buy. That is why I was considering trying the Axiom 30 day trial thing and going from there.

Sorry mods for the OT.

Cheers!

Guitarman,I'll be going with a 4:3 pulldown

Gonna get a 16:9 PJ in about 6 months with lense shift and have a mounted screen..

the best of both worlds :D

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
My ceiling is 7'3'' but where the PJ would be mounted has a ceiling of 6'11''
It can be mounted anywhere in the 12 foot range.

I have 3 B&W N805's up front and The center speaker might be in the way if i don't use keystone(or VERY close)

How high is that center speaker off the floor? Are you going 4:3 or 16:9?

I have 7'3" ceilings and I think if I remember right- my lens is at like 6'9". I am only projecting just under 10' throw distance though.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
Guitarman,I'll be going with a 4:3 pulldown.This PJ is going to be for basic tv and gaming mostly(of course dvd's too though),Gonna get a 16:9 PJ in about 6 months with lense shift and have a mounted screen..

the best of both worlds :D

That's the same with mine. My primary uses are Xbox (also DVD player until HTPC is built), Dish Net Sat., and DVD. Once I build the HTPC which will utilize a HD OTA card of some sort (still specing out the parts), the HD content will be a big part. Its nice having the flexibility to do both 4:3 and 16:9 at a touch of a button. Who knows once I finally get the HD content going I may utilize stretching the image via the HTPC and make use of a Panamorph (?) lense to condense the stretched image back to 16:9 while still utilizing all the pixels.

I could build a stand for the center speaker that basicly would have it 20 inches off the floor(most likely tilt it up because it would be so low)

Specs are as follows

ceiling height=7'3''
PJ ceiling height 6'11''
PJ roughly 12' from screen

Screen=4:3 80''x60''

Center speaker=roughly 20''

Will i be the keystone king?heh

I edited my previous post because after thinking about it there is no way in hell i wouldnt be watching dvd's more than anything else,Thats all i use to do when i had my RPTV that i recently got rid of,I just been on a dvd break because i am watching tv on a 17'' pc monitor(yes..it does suck)

EyeOfNewt- so the top of the 4:3 screen will be 80" off the floor (60"+20") or ~7" down from the ceiling. I would say try to mount the projector as close as absolutely possible to the ceiling and you may get by with little keystone.

Take a look at the Panavise mount in my gallery and you can get an idea that you can get it pretty close to the ceiling. Then don't follow my method at all :) and get the 6" model (mine was the 9") like Jason did and don't have it hanging out to the side like I did which gives mounting fits. :)

Cheers!

I'm glad you're getting a 100" 4.3 screen, it will be a good match with the H30. You'll be getting a larger image for your DVD and HDTV with the 16.9native aspect. 4.3native will be awesome.

You will need to use a little keystone but you you'll be hard pressed to see a problem.
enjoy

Originally posted by gottahavapj
...if your screen is 16:9 the image will always fill the screen vertically. The only time the image shifts to the bottom (C05) or top (C07) of the screen is if you have a 4:3 screen.
:o I don't know what I was thinking! You of course are correct, sir!

The ceiling is vaulted so mounting height shouldn't be an issue . So, if the projector were to be mounted 12" above the top of a 4:3 screen I'd be looking at:

36" (floor to bottom of screen)
+63" (height of 4:3 screen)
+ 6" (3" border on screen)
+12" (offset)

=117" or 9' 9" for the projector mounting height. Sounds about right?

The projected image of a 16:9 pic on a 4:3 screen with the C07 firmware is a concern to me: If I project to the 4:3 screen a 16:9 pic , the image would be at least 16" (64"- 48") higher than the bottom of the screen.(36+3+16=55"; the bottom the image.) I think I'd prefer the C05 firmware, but think the newest shipments are arriving with C07.

I know its probably personal prefenence, but at what height is everyone else here setting the botton of their screen at? What is considered "ideal"?

~4 rubBer

*thanks for the welcome "gottahavapj" ...I've followed this thread from its early beginnings back in Jan...hope to able to contribute to it soon...

I agree completely on the C07. My setup favors 16:9 on the bottom of the 4:3 screen and I think my screen is lower to the floor than yours and not as tall either. I think your 16:9 image would be up there pretty high.

I bet if a distributor has had an H30 sitting around for more than a week or two it would have C05. Might be worth checking into. I don't suppose there is any way to tell by QC dates or whatever it is on the outside of the box.

OK, I ordered one! Can't wait. I got an Infocus 4800 a couple of weeks ago at Costco. Since I got it, I've been reading about the h30 and decided that, considering Costco's return policy, I should give the h30 a try. If, as it seems from everything I've read, I decide on the Optoma, I can return the 4800.

So far, uncalibrated, the 4800 is just fine... except for green noise in dark scenes. I guess that I can fix that once I figure out how to calibrate it, but I might just wait for the new projector.

4 rubBer, you'll have a little less of an offest with the smaller 16.9 screen you're planning. But think generally the image will be near the 12" down from the lens with the C07, with C05 it's more like 22" down.

Originally posted by utente
OK, I ordered one! Can't wait. I got an Infocus 4800 a couple of weeks ago at Costco. Since I got it, I've been reading about the h30 and decided that, considering Costco's return policy, I should give the h30 a try. If, as it seems from everything I've read, I decide on the Optoma, I can return the 4800.

So far, uncalibrated, the 4800 is just fine... except for green noise in dark scenes. I guess that I can fix that once I figure out how to calibrate it, but I might just wait for the new projector.

You love the H30, it's smooth, it's colorful and has great blacks. It's quiet and has low RBE if not none at all.

That green activity in black could just be mirror activity, lower the brightness level and take a close up look at the screen to quiet it down. Than back a normal viewing distance things should look ok.

With the H30 you'll be getting a ton of adjustment controls to cover just about anything.
enjoy

Originally posted by gottahavapj
I agree completely on the C07. My setup favors 16:9 on the bottom of the 4:3 screen and I think my screen is lower to the floor than yours and not as tall either. I think your 16:9 image would be up there pretty high.

I bet if a distributor has had an H30 sitting around for more than a week or two it would have C05. Might be worth checking into. I don't suppose there is any way to tell by QC dates or whatever it is on the outside of the box.

I'm going to call my dealer and ask about the C05 firmware; maybe by the build date? Actually, I wonder of Canada is even receiving the C07? Can anyone "up" here confirmed that Canada has even received a C07 H30?

~4 rubBeR

EyeofNewt...sound like your're in the same boat as I am...my centre channel is 32" to the tweets...a bit low but not too bad.

Tom- I'll try lowering the brightness on the 4800. So far, other than the green, it's been fine.

The first movie we watched on it was Spiderman and I saw rainbows-- not a lot, but enough. Since then, very few rainbows. Wonder whether it was just that movie, or I adjusted to it.

Since this is my first projector-- and much better than the 27'' Toshiba that it replace-- I don't have anything to compare it with. So, the h30 will be fun.

Originally posted by guitarman
4 rubBer, you'll have a little less of an offest with the smaller 16.9 screen you're planning. But think generally the image will be near the 12" down from the lens with the C07, with C05 it's more like 22" down.

Actually, I decided a 4:3 screen for this PJ makes better sense. You have convinced me of that over the last few months... ;)

Do you think a viewing image of 4 1/2" where a projected 16:9 image to it's centre too high? I'm thinking it would be okay, but the centre channel would be to low. I'll be about 15' back from the screen if that helps with your input.

I know many of you require the extra room below the screen that the c07 firmware allows but keep in mind you will have more of that 'sitting in the front rows at a movie theater feel' . This can make for some kink in the neck problems IMO . I tried this c07 style of offset with my HTPC [ you can shift the 16:9 image anyplace with an HTPC ] and found it caused me to tilt my head back while I watched [ it became uncomfortable ] .

--- I know this doesn't help those of you that have no choice in the matter but if you can work it out my suggestion is to stick with the c05 firmware [ try to keep the middle of the the projected image at seated eye level ] .

--------- Best Wishes ,
------------ Jason

4 rubBeR can go with his 80X60 screen for now, yes a 1.85 dvd will be higher but not too much higher. Picture the black bar a 1.85 dvd has, it's about maybe 8 or 10 inches according to screen size. So whether it's at the top C05 or bottom C07 the shift isn't too drastic. In a few months you can add the digital shift feature and place the 16.9 image anywhere.

Yes Tom but 2.35:1 becomes a bit more of the kinky neck issue IMO as the black bars are even larger top and bottom . Then again maybe I have just become too picky about being comfortable in my old age ;) . Most of my DVD viewing is 2.35:1 so I may be in the minority here as well ;) .

---- Jason

Originally posted by gottahavapj
I agree completely on the C07. My setup favors 16:9 on the bottom of the 4:3 screen and I think my screen is lower to the floor than yours and not as tall either. I think your 16:9 image would be up there pretty high.

I bet if a distributor has had an H30 sitting around for more than a week or two it would have C05. Might be worth checking into. I don't suppose there is any way to tell by QC dates or whatever it is on the outside of the box.

The word from Optoma Canada is that all H30's are still shipping with C05 because C07 is still in beta and has bugs (well, as of 3 weeks ago). So if you buy a H30 today it will definitely have C05. If C07 is still "beta" material I'm surprised they are using it for updates on returned units.

If Cedia wasn't in the way they could hv done the digital shift already. The shift will solve many setup hassles. But in the mean time you can still get going. Up in Canada maybe your dealer could test it for C05.

Hi all,

Ive been lurking on this thread for just over a fortnight now ever since the idea of front projection popped into my head. I spent two weeks here at avsforum and other sites such as projectorcentral just getting up to speed on the technology. The following couple of weeks then had me wrecking my brain trying to make the choice of which projector to go for.

Being a front projector virgin, I had a hell of a time figuring out which one to choose, but in the end ive went with the Optoma H30. My local reseller had none in stock so I couldnt demo it so I just took the blind plunge and had them order one up direct from Optoma (or "Themescene" as they are branded over here in the UK). It arrived yesterday, and I am in complete awe at the image this thing is throwing out!! Just let me say, that anyone else who is lurking on this thread, who is in the situation I was in just a week ago, dont waste any more of your time, get yourself an H30 by the scruff of the neck!

I dont even know where to start, in terms of giving you the lowdown on what mine is like OOTB, but it looks so good as it is, that I am hestitant to mess with any of the advanced image settings. There is no apparent push from any of the primary colours, the blacks are amazing (and are grey when brightness is increased), it has the C05 firmware and RBE is EXTINCT on this puppy (I seen some older projectors running with 2x colour wheels at the store and I could see the rainbows quite easily on dark backgrounds which had bright objects moving in the foreground). With the H30 its even quite difficult to force yourself to see the rainbows when you use the "trick" of looking quickly round the image and moving your eyes back and forth! I would say to anyone who is wary of rainbows, that from my experience thus far, movie watching and also subtitles simply do not even hint at generating the RBE.

Im firmly within the HTPC camp and with the nvidia 3.x beta codecs the image is just SO cinema-like its unreal (I hooked up a Pioneer DV350S for comparison and just laughed at its output when I seen it). Screen door effect is totally absent at about 10' from the image (im throwing from 12' and getting 170cm x 135cm with minimum zoom). I use zoomplayer and find that doing the per-pixel correct resize for dvd material and centering it within the H30s native display res looks best for me, rather than allowing the PC to rescale to 800x600. I have yet to create any higher resolutions within powerstrip so that the pixelworks chip can downscale them etc.. as I am simply so blown away by what I am seeing already.

I do have AVIA but I really see little need to go through the process of calibrating - I may do so later on one of the user settings just for comparison sake.

If there was one single thing that I wasnt happy about, it would be that the scart rgb to vga converter has a male scart connector on it rather than a female one, which means that yout cannot simply plug your console or other devices rgb scart cable into the projector - I had to go and get a scart coupler (about £5) which has 2 female rgb scart sockets on it, however with that hooked up console gaming is just insanely amazing.

For those interested in emulation, and playing olkskool classics with low resolutions, the pixelworks chip has a decent stab at rescaling to 800x600, but really the scaling artifacts are there to be seen and you wont get rid of them. However there is a "window" mode on the H30 which seems to attempt to smoothen out the rescale at the cost of image size. Using this window mode on consoles such as the ps2 which are feeding a 480i signal gives a very nice picture via rgb. When you stretch the ps2 to full native 4:3 800x600 there appear to be very few scaling artifacts at all, however I did see some interlacing style "weaving" artifacts on some edges here, although turning the projectors sharpness setting down does a decent job of countering that small issue. Ive yet to try any other consoles, but when friends bring xboxs or gamecubes I will get a look :)

As for PC gaming in general, the image is rock solid throughout. I know that one of my doubts were how well the H30 (or any projector really) would handle high speed 3d gaming. Well, the H30 does it amazingly, no bluriness (LOL the sharpness of the standard pc vga input is so amazing), no other artifacts whatsoever, amazing colours (especially when you use nvidia digital vibrance modes - why doesnt ATI have this!)

At the end of the day I could just go on and talk forever about how impressive this projector is, but if you have managed to read this far then I think you will have got the point :P

Let me just say thanks to all the others who have participated in this thread to give such excellent and indepth info on this projector, as it has been a key part of my decision to go with the H30 - and its the best decision ive ever made.

I hope what info I have provided is of use to others who frequent this thread, and if anyone has any questions related to pc dvd, pc gaming and emulation, and console gaming on the H30 I will try my best to answer your queries.

Regards,

BAM:)

BAM, and you were worried. :) How about the detail in blacks? The H30 is the king of opening murky movies.
enjoy

Absolutely, the extra detail that jumps out at you is just scary. Everyone of my friends who has seen this projector so far has made a point of saying how much new stuff they have noticed, even on films they know like the back of their hand (LOTR 2 comes to mind!). The really big thing for me, is how consistent and solid the image is in plain areas of a dvd, where the failings of mpeg2 encoding would usually surface, the H30 combined with PC DVD playback just seems to tame the majority of artifacting that I had previously been used to seeing.

"Absolutely, the extra detail that jumps out at you is just scary."

Exactly what I was saying about the Gollum shot. The image is just popping out of the screen.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30gollum.jpg

BAM279,

I just read your post and feel the exact same way. Im now at 383 hours on my H30 and still sit in awe whenever I watch anything on it. The H30 is my first projector as well and I am beyond pleased.

The only thing I get nervous about is the bulb burning out. I am very tempted to buy a spare just-in-case bulb so that if I do burn out a bulb I wont have to go an hour without my beloved H30. Anyone want to suggest a place in Canada to buy a spare bulb?

My H30 out of the box was dead on the colors. I bought AVIA as well and figured that was a waste of cash when I compared it to the stock colors H30.

Anyways another very Happy Camper....

You can check my first theatre where I did all the work myself @ http://mytheatre.servebeer.com

Guitarman,

I am very sorry that my post came off to you the way it did. I in no-way meant it as a jab against you. After coming back to this forum and re-reading what I said to you several posts ago about the screen shots... I felt terrible. :)
Please accept my apology. :)

I will try to find the screen shots in dagamepimps posts.

Thanks for the input.

Craig :) :) :)

Originally posted by guitarman
"Absolutely, the extra detail that jumps out at you is just scary."

Exactly what I was saying about the Gollum shot. The image is just popping out of the screen.

Is it just me or do CG graphics or computer generated enhanced actors/films seem more vibrant/intense than they normally do? Or maybe the intended detail put into the graphics are finally being realized due to the higher resolution displays?

Jason- I agree with you completely on the C05 vs. C07 thing. C07 would not work well for my setup especially with a 2.35 film.

Bam- that's a great post, thanks for that. I know after listening to Jason tout the advantages of HTPC and now with your experience- I'm thinking I must add this as a source option. Only problem is I'd need to either spend ~$300-400 on my Dell to get it there or build a new one. Reading this review of ffdshow- http://htpcnews.com/main.php?id=ffdshowdvd_1 didn't hurt the cause either. I find those before/after photos to be stunning.

RicKochet- I hear you on the bulb thing. I'm at 478 hours and am considering buying a new bulb and putting my current one on the shelf until the new one blows. This one is out of warranty and I would not want to have an unopened one sitting on my shelf for perhaps a year- open it and find out it's DOA. 90 day warranty, to bad...

Cheers!

Originally posted by RiKochet
BAM279,

I just read your post and feel the exact same way. Im now at 383 hours on my H30 and still sit in awe whenever I watch anything on it. The H30 is my first projector as well and I am beyond pleased.

The only thing I get nervous about is the bulb burning out. I am very tempted to buy a spare just-in-case bulb so that if I do burn out a bulb I wont have to go an hour without my beloved H30. Anyone want to suggest a place in Canada to buy a spare bulb?

My H30 out of the box was dead on the colors. I bought AVIA as well and figured that was a waste of cash when I compared it to the stock colors H30.

Anyways another very Happy Camper....

You can check my first theatre where I did all the work myself @ http://mytheatre.servebeer.com

You have been busy. Nice to have a dedicated room. The H30 will keep you happy for some time. Nice you got a 4.3 screen. Try some music or classic video's. Or maybe some Football once the season gets going.
Good work.

You guys are lucky, we couldn't get near this picture quality 3yrs ago.

Originally posted by suffolk112000
Guitarman,

I am very sorry that my post came off to you the way it did. I in no-way meant it as a jab against you. After coming back to this forum and re-reading what I said to you several posts ago about the screen shots... I felt terrible. :)
Please accept my apology. :)

I will try to find the screen shots in dagamepimps posts.

Thanks for the input.

Craig :) :) :)

Don't worry about it. :) I know the pictures look pretty nice. I just thought whoops some blind guy stumbled into the picture room. ;)
take care

Yesterday i saw lost in translation, i then discovered that the picture quality in some scene look likes it was bad compression quality or it looks like it was thousands of colors instead of millions, if you know what i mean. like it was a smaller color depht.

Is this what i get with H30 or dlp or is this just the problem with pixelworks, and if so can i easily just buy me a progressive dvd player to fix it?

Do i really need a dvd player with Faroudja or silicon image chip inside or is it ok with a dvd player like Pioneer 565a or Harman Kardon 22?

What did you experts say!!!!

Got another question guys

Just curious as to how the whole 16:9 screen goes with a 4:3 native.

Do you just let the black bars spill off of the screen?Making it apear as a normal 16:9 setup.But still having a small amount of black bars with 2.35 1?

:)

gotta ,

--- Yep , HTPC is the way to go . No standalone dvd player can match a tweaked (Nvdvd3/ffdshow) HTPC .

_________________________

EyeOfNewt ,

--- If you mean a 4:3 source projected within a 16:9 screen then all you do is hit the Window Mode button on the remote and it places the 4:3 box right in the middle of the 16:9 screen [ in the proper aspect with black bars on the sides ] .

__________________


-------------- Jason

Originally posted by draags
Yesterday i saw lost in translation, i then discovered that the picture quality in some scene look likes it was bad compression quality or it looks like it was thousands of colors instead of millions, if you know what i mean. like it was a smaller color depht.

Is this what i get with H30 or dlp or is this just the problem with pixelworks, and if so can i easily just buy me a progressive dvd player to fix it?

Do i really need a dvd player with Faroudja or silicon image chip inside or is it ok with a dvd player like Pioneer 565a or Harman Kardon 22?

What did you experts say!!!!

Absolutely you should be using a progressive player. We try to buy the Faroudja type so we know we have the best. Pretty sure the 565a was seen to be soft. I'd reasearch the DVD forum for the best bet player without the Faroudja chip at a low price. Some JVC's have been great for sharp clean picture. See what Panasonic is up to.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
Got another question guys

Just curious as to how the whole 16:9 screen goes with a 4:3 native.

Do you just let the black bars spill off of the screen?Making it apear as a normal 16:9 setup.But still having a small amount of black bars with 2.35 1?

:)

Your getting a 4.3 screen. Use 4.3native for full resolution 800X600, use 16.9native for 800X480. 1.85 widescreen movies will show one black bar, 2.35 will show two. You won't have to worry about light spill because all the light will be on the screen. Try the lens mask because it will cut down light scatter.

Thats pretty neat

I am so used to 4:3 RPTV's i gotta catch up on some of this stuff.


So when watching 1.85 flicks will the single black bar be above or below?

I'll most likely just make some sort of masking system eventually


I can't for the life of me decide wether or not to get a pulldown screen or mounted.I am going to end up getting a 16:9 native pj sometime,I was going to get a 4:3 pulldown and a 1.85 mounted carada.Mounted seems better(i think) because of waves and wrinkles pulldowns can get.Plus i have no clue when i will get a 16:9 native..I might just end up more than happy with this one,And i get a pulldown and end up 100% happy with this one i might regret not getting a mounted screen...

hmmmmmmmmmmm...:confused:

If it's C05 firmware the bar will be on the top. You can get a cheap pull down dalite for a while.

1.85 movies are gonna be pretty low!heh

Did i read correct when someone(i think it was you actually)said there will be a update so people can shift it to the top of the chip or the bottom?That would be pretty neat.

Its really too bad we can't update them ourselves.Small price to pay for how good this PJ seems.

Yah i was looking at the Dalites,They seem pretty cheap..So cheap i have to ask are they any good?

I seen several at around $200 and even a electric one for around $400(think it was a dalite..might have been other brand).

I should bring this to the screen section but in your opinion guitarman,Is there much difference between say a mega cheap dalite for something like $200 compared to some other brand for anywhere under a grand?

I would of course think so..But is the difference really that big...I'm sure they are when you spend a few grand.But screw that madness heh

Originally posted by draags
Yesterday i saw lost in translation, i then discovered that the picture quality in some scene look likes it was bad compression quality or it looks like it was thousands of colors instead of millions, if you know what i mean. like it was a smaller color depht.

Is this what i get with H30 or dlp or is this just the problem with pixelworks, and if so can i easily just buy me a progressive dvd player to fix it?

I've seen this too. Actually it is something that bothers me quite a lot.

Usually it is best seen in faces (closeups) that are moving slowly. There are lots of posterization in the faces. It is most visible in divx/xvid's from xbox (PAL & component & interlaced) but also in DVD's (PAL & component & progressive). However in TV-image (VHS-video & composite & interlaced) I couldn't realize it at all.

I have tried tweaking the sharpness, color, brighness, contrast but nothing seem to affect it.
Is there anything that could be finetuned to make it smaller or is this just nature of DLP ?

The quality of output is totally dependent on the source material. If you have a poorly mastered dvd or low quality input source then you cant expect it to look amazing when outputted. "GIGO - Garbage In > Garbage Out"

What are you using to playback your Lost in Translation dvd etc...? If you are using a pc with dvd software, the choice of decoder and configuration settings are important for achieving best possible image quality. If you are using a standalone hardware dvd player then you need to use quality cables such as component (or rgb scart where I live) to get best quality.

The H30 projector in itself will not create any such colour banding etc.. it will perfectly reproduce the input source material it is fed, so if you feed it a vga conncetion from the pc it will be ultra sharp and perfect, likewise if you hook up a standalone dvd player via composite you will get a poor, soft, washed out grainy, colour bleeding mess of a picture, due to the low quality of composite.

Try playing a reference quality dvd back on your system such as one of the Lord of The Rings dvds, to see how it looks. If you still have banding and other image anomolies with such high quality source material then you know your config is at fault.

This is true. I have seen the same problem with some DVDs, up to a point where I seriously doubted the correct operation of the H30. But other DVDs, like DVE, do not show this problem at all. Unbelievable, but it seems there are some truely bad quality DVDs out there.. Same goes for sharpness btw, I often wonder if I should have bought a higher res pj when watching some DVDs, but when I see the demos on DVE I know it is not the pj nor my DVD player.

Originally posted by BAM279
The quality of output is totally dependent on the source material. If you have a poorly mastered dvd or low quality input source then you cant expect it to look amazing when outputted. "GIGO - Garbage In > Garbage Out"

The H30 projector in itself will not create any such colour banding etc.. it will perfectly reproduce the input source material it is fed, so if you feed it a vga conncetion from the pc it will be ultra sharp and perfect, likewise if you hook up a standalone dvd player via composite you will get a poor, soft, washed out grainy, colour bleeding mess of a picture, due to the low quality of composite.


This is NOT an issue with source-material nor cables. If you read carefully my post you see that the least visible banding/posterization is in the WORST signal source (TV w/composite).

My DVD-setup is Harman/Kardon DVD22 with very high quality component cables and in progressive mode. And the posterization is very clearly visible in _moving_ objects. To me it looks the problems in display-device not source-material. Also this effect is not visible in TV with the same source.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
1.85 movies are gonna be pretty low!heh

Did i read correct when someone(i think it was you actually)said there will be a update so people can shift it to the top of the chip or the bottom?That would be pretty neat.

Its really too bad we can't update them ourselves.Small price to pay for how good this PJ seems.

Yah i was looking at the Dalites,They seem pretty cheap..So cheap i have to ask are they any good?

I seen several at around $200 and even a electric one for around $400(think it was a dalite..might have been other brand).

I should bring this to the screen section but in your opinion guitarman,Is there much difference between say a mega cheap dalite for something like $200 compared to some other brand for anywhere under a grand?

I would of course think so..But is the difference really that big...I'm sure they are when you spend a few grand.But screw that madness heh

Dalite screens can be low priced but there material work well. Pick up a pull down with High Power material. If you want to see your 4.3 at full size get a 80X60 otherwise choose a 85X45. Whether you ceiling mount or shelf mount you'll be fine with the HP. You are ceiling mounting which is good because you can get that gain down to about 1.5gain.

Digital shift is in a few months if you need it. But I don't think you'll mind the 1.85 image at the bottom if you go 4.3. Looks great to me.

People seeing grain or image delay. Here in the US with NTSC I see no posturing or smear/grain. Everything's looking as good as it can be.

Guitarman..thank you once again for the help,Yet again..this pain in the @ss newbie has another question though heh.

I am sitting about 10 feet back..maybe a half a foot closer even,I know its close but untill i go to the bigger room ,wich won't be till next year..this is as far back as i can get.

Does the high power make the image mega bright?The only reason i ask is because of the name"High Power"heh.

I don't want something that is mega bright so my eyes bleed in a few days.

The title High Power coulld just be misleading though.

Yes it's bright but no too over powering with a ceiling mounted projector. I found with the similar ansi HT1000 it was great.

You want the HP material because non- tensioned it's the best material out there (hangs flat) (no waves with video). For that I'd buy it if it was 1.0 gain. The boost is just a bonus. :)

Keep in mind the View cone on the High Power is very narrow .

------- Jason

Not bad 30percent vs others like the mat white I have that's 45%. Most viewers are viewing within the screen area. You'd hv to be sitting way off to the sides to see a brightness dropoff.

Jason may be talking about the 2.8gain cone but I'm not talking about that. That kind of gain for me is almost too high. Ceiling mount the projector and tame down the gain to about 1.5 or maybe it's a little higher. I've seen it, it's bright! but not too bright this way.

Very cheap way to go for a high caliber screen.

Originally posted by MMika
I've seen this too. Actually it is something that bothers me quite a lot.

Usually it is best seen in faces (closeups) that are moving slowly. There are lots of posterization in the faces. It is most visible in divx/xvid's from xbox (PAL & component & interlaced) but also in DVD's (PAL & component & progressive). However in TV-image (VHS-video & composite & interlaced) I couldn't realize it at all.

I have tried tweaking the sharpness, color, brighness, contrast but nothing seem to affect it.
Is there anything that could be finetuned to make it smaller or is this just nature of DLP ?

I too have been having this problem. The H30 went back to Optoma but they never seemed to be able to find the problem since it is still occurring. I use interlaced RGB scart connection. They suggested using a progressive component dvd player but havent bought a new player yet.

I have managed to get it to stop usually by setting signal lock to on and then pressing the S-Video button on the H30 remote and waiting till no siganl appears and then pressing the VGA button again. This usually fixes it, not sure if it re-syncs or something. I only seem to get this problem in PAL.

I would have thought the signal menu might help sort out this problem but it is not available in the menus for some reason, maybe because im using RGB scart.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
Guitarman..thank you once again for the help,Yet again..this pain in the @ss newbie has another question though heh.

I am sitting about 10 feet back..maybe a half a foot closer even,I know its close but untill i go to the bigger room ,wich won't be till next year..this is as far back as i can get.

Does the high power make the image mega bright?The only reason i ask is because of the name"High Power"heh.

I don't want something that is mega bright so my eyes bleed in a few days.

The title High Power coulld just be misleading though.

You're saying 10' so you better pick your width size by the 2times rule, strecthing it to 1.8times might be ok also. So you can't go 80" wide.

If there's nothing in the way on the floor you could get a Dalite Insta Theater which only comes in a 2.0gain material called wide power. A user here has that screen and loves it.

Originally posted by MMika
This is NOT an issue with source-material nor cables. If you read carefully my post you see that the least visible banding/posterization is in the WORST signal source (TV w/composite).

My DVD-setup is Harman/Kardon DVD22 with very high quality component cables and in progressive mode. And the posterization is very clearly visible in _moving_ objects. To me it looks the problems in display-device not source-material. Also this effect is not visible in TV with the same source.

I have the same setup like you have, with the Harman/Kardon DVD22 (PAL) and had the same banding/posterization on the fases as you have. This only happen with interlaced signals. I used the HK DVD22 RGBscart output, after a while I found that the HK DVD22 SCART didn't support progressive RGB output. As soon I used the standard component cable and switched the player to progressive, this banding on the faces went away. Make sure your HK DVD22 player is in progressive scan, because this player default output is interlaced for component.

If you don't have one get one. I think all H30 owners should hit the local Camera shop and pick up a FLD-Filter. Did some testing today and I'd bet many users would like the change the filter makes. They're cheap enough, try one out. I have a 77mm left over from a Sharp Z9000 I had. It's just a little larger than the lens. Measure the outer lens, maybe there's one available that's a perfect fit.

What do you get? You'll get deeper colors and blacks. Still plenty bright and still excellent detail in the blacks for murky movies like Panic Room or Master Commander. Mostly likely a significant boost in CR also.

Originally posted by Vorst
I have the same setup like you have, with the Harman/Kardon DVD22 (PAL) and had the same banding/posterization on the fases as you have. This only happen with interlaced signals. I used the HK DVD22 RGBscart output, after a while I found that the HK DVD22 SCART didn't support progressive RGB output. As soon I used the standard component cable and switched the player to progressive, this banding on the faces went away. Make sure your HK DVD22 player is in progressive scan, because this player default output is interlaced for component.

As I said I am using progressive component for DVD's and Interlaced component for xbox. Believe me this issue is not the cables or source-material. It is the way DLP (or h30) produces images. I'm just hoping that there would be some settings to finetune it in service-menu.

I try to take a photo of the effect if possible. The problem is that it is only visible in moving objects. If the image is stopped from dvd or h30 it disappears. It is like smearing/posterization/dithering mostly on round surfaces like face (cheek especially).

btw, I am using PAL material only.

hmm

so it seems its only PAL where you guys are having these issues with smearing,dithering ect?

Would that lense filter help possibly guitarman?

I asked because i watch ALOT of PAL stuff.

American movies only just don't cut it for me...Yah we do make some awesome looking movies as far as PQ and the sound is usually great.But IMO..I have had enough of watching movies with the exact same plot,Its to the point where you know whats going to happen 15 minutes into the movies..For instance Taking Lives..god that was awfull..If i see another remake of a awesome classic horror get completely ruined i am gonna be sick all over myself lol.(sorry for the rant..a bit OT heheh)

One good thing is this will be my first PJ,So alot of these terms are new to me and i haven't even seen them yet,Like rainbow effect,screendoor..ect ect.I know what they all basicly are from reading but i havent really a clue what they look like.

Best thing i could possibly do is try and NOT learn what they are..Maybe i won't be able to notice stuff like that as easily.

Guitarman,I sorta knew a 100'' is too big at 10',But my plan was to buy a good screen and one big enough for the bigger room i am moving everything to in a year.But these dalites are cheap enough so that i could go smaller,and then get bigger later.
I'm still slightly considering a mounted Carada though.Anyone using a Carada with a H30?

I'll most likely go with the high power though,I sit right in the middle so it should work out good.

I don't want to go too small as far as the screen goes.And of course i don't want to suffer PQ just for the wow factor.Somewhere in between would be good.

EyeOfNewt, I wouldn't worry too much about the screen/gain. If it's too bright, you can always adjust the brightness/contrast/gamma on your projector. And I can assure you that the H30 has plenty of brightness.

Since this is your first projector, you'll probably be like me and my wife: absolutely blown away. We bought an Infocus X1 from a local retailer and were so excited we stopped at an office supply store on the way home and picked up a pack of white poster paper. We ordered our screen online that night (a pull-down Da-lite Deluxe High Contrast - not even the High Power, mind you...) but we enjoyed watching movies projected onto 6 sheets of poster paper (roughly a 100" screen) for a good week or so.

We decided to take back the X1 because we were getting some weird artifacts and ultimately ended up with the H30. Screen Door Effect is not even an issue anymore. I seriously doubt you'll notice it, and even if you do, it won't detract from your movie experience. You have to really want to see the SDE on the H30 to be able to.

I have about 220 hours on my H30 and I'm still loving it. It'll make you want to rewatch all of your favorite movies again. With a nice audio setup, you'll really feel like you're in the theater...minus the annoying people! [:)]

I think you'll dig it. For those of you worried about the screen offset, SDE, pixelworks scaler, screen size, 4:3 vs 16x9, etc etc, I would urge you to not get hung up on the details. All of this stuff can be easily adjusted on the H30 (and most other projectors).

Heck, after the "newness" of the gigantic screen wore off for me, I even reduced the screen size a bit just to make it more comfortable to watch. It's hard to keep up with everything on the screen if you make it too big or sit too close. So, I would advise getting a big 'ol pulldown screen for $300 or less and play with the projector for a while, and then you'll know how big of a permanent screen you'll want...or whether it's worth dropping mad cash on a mounted screen. My screen has a tension arm which keeps it very flat - no wrinkles at all.

guitarman-
does the filter not cut brightness? I think it would but i can say i don't really have have any to lose unless it's full on night. I don't have total light control but i don't think i have lumens to spare either way. now that other pj might like it:-)

rudee

Originally posted by guitarman
If you don't have one get one. I think all H30 owners should hit the local Camera shop and pick up a FLD-Filter. Did some testing today and I'd bet many users would like the change the filter makes. They're cheap enough, try one out. I have a 77mm left over from a Sharp Z9000 I had. It's just a little larger than the lens. Measure the outer lens, maybe there's one available that's a perfect fit.


Hi guys. Been gone for awhile with some family problems, so I'm just catching up here.

Sounds like a fun experiment, Tom. The lens mask is 66 mm and they make a 67 mm filter, so maybe I'll try that one. Either that or use a larger one that you could tape to the outer ring. If you have decent good light control, it shouldn't be an issue.

BTW, did you notice Colorfacts is on sale right now? Still a bit pricey for me, but I'm starting to weaken. :D

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Sounds like a fun experiment, Tom. The lens mask is 66 mm and they make a 67 mm filter, so maybe I'll try that one. Either that or use a larger one that you could tape to the outer ring.

Let us know how the 67mm works - the lens mask on mine seems to be a snug fit already, but 1mm isn't much...

Actually, the more I think about it, the 67 mm would be the inside thread, so it may not fit. The next one up is 72 mm, so that's probably the way to go.

Originally posted by rudee
guitarman-
does the filter not cut brightness? I think it would but i can say i don't really have have any to lose unless it's full on night. I don't have total light control but i don't think i have lumens to spare either way. now that other pj might like it:-)

rudee

Brightness doesn't matter with the H30 it's still very bright with the lens on. The lens is so cheap that it's worth a try. Guy Kuo (author of Avia) uses this lens on his HT1000 and recommends it. Try it the deeper colors and better contrast look very good. We just hv to nail down the best size. It would be best to measure the outer rim of the H30's lens. If your projector is level the ridge on the lens will secure it. If your Pj is tilted up a little you could even rest a smaller lens inside the rim. I won't fall out unless maybe if there's an Earthquake. :)

Hi,

I'm thinking about stepping up to a new PJ. I presently have a Plus Piano HE3100 (the only PJ I've ever had in my HT), and I'm looking to go with an HD-capable PJ. From the throw calculator I've used, the H30 seems capable of projecting a 102"-wide image from 17' away. I'm projecting that kind of image now with my Piano, and I'm sure I'm pushing it beyond its limits; but, the image seems pretty good to me (maybe because I don't know any better yet).

Is the H30 still the best bang-for-the-buck PJ out there?

Thanks for any info you can provide!

Dwight

Welcome back Mike... Hope all is well.

I think I have a metric ruler thingy around here somewhere if I could only find anything.. :)

Cheers!

Howdy H30 folks, new and old.
I have been playing Planetside the last couple months and don't even have my H30 operational right now. I know its a crime and I should be hung by my thumbs :(
Anyhow, I was going to send it back for the buzzing issue and C07 but just got lazy and decided not too. Optoma Support was awesome about the whole thing though and sent me an RMA out pronto.

I got Component cables for my PS2 and DVD Player, also got my PC hooked up. SO I got a VGA switch going to my PC and a AV splitter from radio shack that splits off to my DVD and PS2.
I can't get the PS2 screensize to match up properly, is that possible? I gave up on it already.
The PC doesn't match up exactly either, both a little smaller than my DVD player which is what I set it up to match.
There stuff I can run on the PC to make it match up with the screen?
Hopefully have this hooked back up this week, with Star Wars coming out and everything. Been watching Buffy seasons with my fiancee on my 36" instead of the PJ, what a crime! Got to season 3 this week :)
Later guys

The outside diameter of the H30 focus ring appears to be about 70 mm, so that should work pretty well with a 72 mm filter. I'll see if I can pick one up today or tomorrow and check it out.

Been watching Buffy seasons with my fiancee on my 36" instead of the PJ, what a crime!
Oh, man, what a shame...Buffy on the projector is the only way to go!

We watched all 6 seasons of Buffy on the projector. The Buffy, CSI, Futurama, Simpsons and Firefly DVDs are responsible for MOST of the hours on our lamp! :)

Originally posted by MikeSRC
The outside diameter of the H30 focus ring appears to be about 70 mm, so that should work pretty well with a 72 mm filter. I'll see if I can pick one up today or tomorrow and check it out.

Thx Mike, lmk what you think. The difference I see is pretty drastic. Nice option for low $. Actually I have no idea what they cost. I never bought one. :)

Imaging gets very deep and I checked out Panic Room, black detail is still excellent just like with the lens off.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
hmm

so it seems its only PAL where you guys are having these issues with smearing,dithering ect?

Would that lense filter help possibly guitarman?

I was able to take a photo of the smearing-effect. Please take a look and tell me what this is:

http://www.pbase.com/image/32700884

ps. Just to make sure You all don't think the image is _that_ bad - please feel free to take a look of the rest of the images as well :)

http://www.pbase.com/mmalo/themescene_h30

Being as I know nothing about camera filters - is there a difference in quality between brands? I've also noticed that some are labeled "standard", while other (more expensive ones) are "multi-coated".

The filters do have different quality levels (just like lenses), but I wouldn't worry about getting a cheap one. A 72 mm FL-D filter runs about $25-40. I have a Ritz not too far from me, so I'll check it out.

Originally posted by MMika
I was able to take a photo of the smearing-effect. Please take a look and tell me what this is:

http://www.pbase.com/image/32700884

ps. Just to make sure You all don't think the image is _that_ bad - please feel free to take a look of the rest of the images as well :)

http://www.pbase.com/mmalo/themescene_h30

Ok, Wing is going to check to talk to the UK tech about your PAL problem. Have you called the optoma techincal people in your area?

Wow, that screencap of your smearing problem looks really horrendous. I live in the UK and thus almost all my DVDs and other video I playback on my H30 is PAL and I have absolutely no artifacts of any kind - everything looks rock solid, from the slowest pans to the fastest camera movements, as well as all manner of video from pc and console games.

quote:Originally posted by Vorst
I have the same setup like you have, with the Harman/Kardon DVD22 (PAL) and had the same banding/posterization on the fases as you have. This only happen with interlaced signals. I used the HK DVD22 RGBscart output, after a while I found that the HK DVD22 SCART didn't support progressive RGB output. As soon I used the standard component cable and switched the player to progressive, this banding on the faces went away. Make sure your HK DVD22 player is in progressive scan, because this player default output is interlaced for component.

Quote:
As I said I am using progressive component for DVD's and Interlaced component for xbox. Believe me this issue is not the cables or source-material. It is the way DLP (or h30) produces images. I'm just hoping that there would be some settings to finetune it in service-menu.

I try to take a photo of the effect if possible. The problem is that it is only visible in moving objects. If the image is stopped from dvd or h30 it disappears. It is like smearing/posterization/dithering mostly on round surfaces like face (cheek especially).

btw, I am using PAL material only."

It could be related to the scart connection or connector itself. Seems I remember someone with a similar problem and it was the DVD player. There was something he did within the players menu's to enable the player to sync correctly. And with someone else it was the scart connector. Trouble is this thread is like the History of the H30 and trying to find a five month old post is too difficult.

It says in the HK manual with the Scart output you can choose either composite or RGB direct.

To view RGB a RGB compatible Scart connector must be used from the TV. Are you using a Scart cable you got with the H30 or is the connector you're using RGB compatible?

Originally posted by guitarman
To view RGB a RGB compatible Scart connector must be used from the TV. Are you using a Scart cable you got with the H30 or is the connector you're using RGB compatible? [/B]

At least not for me since I'm not even using scart-connectors or RGB-signal.
I am using component cables with progressive (component) signal. I have tried interlaced without difference.

And I am still confident it has nothing to do with cables or source since the very same effect is even more visible using xbox as source. AND if the problem is in the source-material or signal then why it disappears when the image is paused from H30 ?

For me it looks like DLP dithering bug for moving objects. The question is; Is it only my unit , is there something to adjust, is it related to pal & colorspace, or what?

I am not sure (need to check it up today) but I think that the smearing was much less visible at the startup. The more the projector warmed the more I begun to see it. Lets say that raughly after one hour it starts.

Hello,

After my H30 was in greenbar-bug service in england I noticed that the blacklevel is brighter. No matter what I adjust from user-options (brightness, advanced, gamma, etc.) there is still lots of visible noise in the black-area. Example 2.35:1 movie's blackbars. These used to be in the same level than unused masked 4:3->16:9 area.

In the service menu I saw options in for black-level calibrations. Is it anyhow possible to use it by myself? If so how exactly?

Thanks.

Hi Mmika,

We can also discuss this issue in Finnish forum as well, but:
I had similar issue (green noise), see my previous posts, and other information in some previous posts as well. It also appeared to me after green bar repair.

Here is some summary collected from previous posts:
You can't remove it completely.
It can be removed from black by lowering brightness but then it is more visible in light areas. I was able to reduce it quite nicely, simply by playing with adv. settings brightness/contrast. Main issue is to lower brightness enough.

In my H30, noise in black was greenish, and I removed it by lowering adv. setting green brightness to -6, or by lowering total brighness enough.

I doubt that service menu helps, since it only operates at brightness/contrast as well, but affecting all signals instead of one such as RGB.

You can also see the noise without any sources: Start with one source and then remove it. "No signal" appears and you can see green noise in blacks aroung the message. Even if no cables are connected!

I don't know whether this should be fixed, or whether brighter image after repair has simply made it more visible.

Originally posted by MMika
I was able to take a photo of the smearing-effect. Please take a look and tell me what this is:

http://www.pbase.com/image/32700884

ps. Just to make sure You all don't think the image is _that_ bad - please feel free to take a look of the rest of the images as well :)

http://www.pbase.com/mmalo/themescene_h30

The top screenshot is an example of the problem I have to. Not sure if Optoma in the UK are aware of it.
I told them about the problem and they took my H30 away to fix it, two weeks ago, but it is still occuring. Pressing "S-Video" button followed by the "VGA" button usually works for me.

Hi everybody,

I've been following this (monster) thread for a long time and it had a major influence in my decision to by the H30. Thanks a lot to you all: I have now about 60 hours on the projector and I am totally loving it. My setup is far from optimal (entry level Sony DVP-310 player running an interlaced signal over a 45' S-video cable), but the picture still looks wonderful :) I should try out a friends Nintaus player with Faroudja over VGA someday to see how big a difference that will make.

My main concern so far has been the smearing effect reported by MMika. I was confident that it would have been caused by my poor setup, but now it seems a progressive source might not correct that. The effect is somewhat disturbing in some movies (PAL Das Boot Superbit edition being the worst perhaps so far), but I can live with it as it is doesn't show up that bad in most movies. I have a lot of NTSC discs as well, but I can't remember whether I've seen the smearing effect on those.

Originally posted by Vierimaa
Here is some summary collected from previous posts:
You can't remove it completely.
It can be removed from black by lowering brightness but then it is more visible in light areas. I was able to reduce it quite nicely, simply by playing with adv. settings brightness/contrast. Main issue is to lower brightness enough.

In my H30, noise in black was greenish, and I removed it by lowering adv. setting green brightness to -6, or by lowering total brighness enough.

I doubt that service menu helps, since it only operates at brightness/contrast as well, but affecting all signals instead of one such as RGB.

You can also see the noise without any sources: Start with one source and then remove it. "No signal" appears and you can see green noise in blacks aroung the message. Even if no cables are connected!

I don't know whether this should be fixed, or whether brighter image after repair has simply made it more visible. [/B]

Hi Vierimaa and good to see you here too :)

Good news. I just went to service-menu and decreased DLP-brightness and contrast settings. Brightness from 32 to 29 (all same) and Contrast from 32 to 30 (again, all same).
AND I was able to COMPLETELY remove the black-noise. The funny thing is that Brightness-values 30 still produced very clearly visible noise (allmost no difference to 32) but I'm glad I tried one notch more.

Not only it removed noise in blacks but it also made them AS BLACK AS light spill area. Very smooth. Also I don't have any noise in the "no signal" display.

Hi mmika,

Just a quick question:
Was your noise in blacks green?

Cheers,
Matias

That smearing looks like a de-interlacer/scaler error.

Originally posted by guitarman
[Quote] It says in the HK manual with the Scart output you can choose either composite or RGB direct.

To view RGB a RGB compatible Scart connector must be used from the TV. Are you using a Scart cable you got with the H30 or is the connector you're using RGB compatible? [/B]

I used to have the SCART/VGA adapter (on the HK DVD22 player side,delivered with the H30) and then an high quality VGA cable to the projector. I went to my shop and exchanged it for a component cable and now I can switch the player to progressive scan and the smearing effect (as described by MMika) disappeared completely.
For sure the player was in RGB/Scart mode but as I said it doesn't support progressive scan with this output.

From my TV I use the composite cable. There I can only get ride off the problem by using 4/3 mode (letterbox) of the projector, which gives a better picture anyway because scaling hides the bad quality of the cable TV. In Native 4/3 with PAL TV I get a delay of the sound and the smearing effect. My opinion this problem is due to the pixelworks deinterlacer of the H30 in PAL. MMika says that he has the effect also in progressive scan, I have to repeat my test this evening to switch my player between progressive/interlaced, to confirm my findings.

Pretty sure there were many early H30's using pal ok. This latest problem may be related to the C07 firmware. What firmware do you have?

Haven't heard of this problem with NTSC sources at all and as Tom said I don't remember hearing any problems with this earlier. I'd just send the unit in for repair with that kind of smearing.

Switching to the FL-D filter idea, it appears that a 72mm is not a size carried by most camera stores (I called a few), so I ordered one online from Ritz. They're local, so we'll see how soon I can get it.

Originally posted by mal_tx
That smearing looks like a de-interlacer/scaler error.

I have to disagree since it's visible both in interlaced and progressive-signal.

I just did some further testing and was able to reproduce the error and get rid of it at will. First I thought it had something to do with gamma but no. Then I tought it is NTSC/PAL -issue but no again. Although it is MUCH less visible when using NTSC even on PAL discs.

GGB said something about s-video -> vga resync. I tested this several times and there is something here. Pressing resync once or twice makes the smearing disappear - atleast for awhile.
I successfully retested this many times in a row in same scene. I also took photos of it. Second picture is taken with ALL SAME SETTINGS - only resync pressed in remote.

SMEARING-EFFECT + NO SMEARING after resync
http://www.pbase.com/image/32732501

I have C07 but I remember seeing this in C05 as well.

Guitarman. If you have any connections could you forward my experience to them?

Originally posted by guitarman
Pretty sure there were many early H30's using pal ok. This latest problem may be related to the C07 firmware. What firmware do you have?
I have this unit since May and I have version. C05
The only thing which bothers me now is the sound delay, when you see someone speaking in a talk show for example (In native 4/3 mode only, the delay is less notable in 4/3 letterbox).

Originally posted by MikeSRC
Haven't heard of this problem with NTSC sources at all and as Tom said I don't remember hearing any problems with this earlier. I'd just send the unit in for repair with that kind of smearing.

Yeah I sent mine in for repair for this particular problem, I explained the issue to Optoma support in the UK over the phone. Got it back last week and there is still a smearing problem so I thought I might just have to live with it. But now other people are having the same problem with PAL.

I was told they updated software on it ? Although it already had C07 on it. So I am not entirely sure what they tried.

Originally posted by MMika
I have to disagree since it's visible both in interlaced and progressive-signal.

I just did some further testing and was able to reproduce the error and get rid of it at will. First I thought it had something to do with gamma but no. Then I tought it is NTSC/PAL -issue but no again. Although it is MUCH less visible when using NTSC even on PAL discs.

GGB said something about s-video -> vga resync. I tested this several times and there is something here. Pressing resync once or twice makes the smearing disappear - atleast for awhile.
I successfully retested this many times in a row in same scene. I also took photos of it. Second picture is taken with ALL SAME SETTINGS - only resync pressed in remote.

SMEARING-EFFECT + NO SMEARING after resync
http://www.pbase.com/image/32732501

I have C07 but I remember seeing this in C05 as well.

Guitarman. If you have any connections could you forward my experience to them?

Do you have a sound delay as well?

BTW fantastic way to prove your point with those pictures. Thanks for your effort.

Originally posted by Vierimaa
Hi mmika,
Just a quick question:
Was your noise in blacks green?


No. It seemed pretty much grey.

Originally posted by MMika
I have to disagree since it's visible both in interlaced and progressive-signal.

I just did some further testing and was able to reproduce the error and get rid of it at will. First I thought it had something to do with gamma but no. Then I tought it is NTSC/PAL -issue but no again. Although it is MUCH less visible when using NTSC even on PAL discs.

GGB said something about s-video -> vga resync. I tested this several times and there is something here. Pressing resync once or twice makes the smearing disappear - atleast for awhile.
I successfully retested this many times in a row in same scene. I also took photos of it. Second picture is taken with ALL SAME SETTINGS - only resync pressed in remote.

SMEARING-EFFECT + NO SMEARING after resync
http://www.pbase.com/image/32732501

I have C07 but I remember seeing this in C05 as well.

Guitarman. If you have any connections could you forward my experience to them?

Yesterday I told the problem to the Engineer designer here in California. He will be look at this thread and plans to talk to the UK technical guys about PAL and the problem.

Now we know it's a sync problem. When you fix it by re-sync how soon does it drop back out to smearing? It still could be related to the hardware, the Harmon Kardon and the Xbox. Anybody else using the Xbox in Pal country?

Originally posted by Vorst
Do you have a sound delay as well?

BTW fantastic way to prove your point with those pictures. Thanks for your effort.

Thanks.
I don't quite understand what you mean with the sound delay?
Could it be DVB (Digital Broadcasting) releated? I recall that there are some sound-delay settings in DVB-boxes to adjust this.

Originally posted by guitarman
Now we know it's a sync problem. When you fix it by re-sync how soon does it drop back out to smearing? [/B]

Can't tell. I just watched Alien till end (just could stop :)) and I realised at least some smearing after one hour. However it didn't seem as bad as before resync (again. it's subjective evaluation) .

My quess is that the smearing is not on/off-effect. Maybe resync will synchronize something (colorwheel & dlp?) and it will slowly drift away from perfect sync. This would explain why it sometimes seems more visible.

One other thing. Isn't the colorwheel speed multipled by 60Hz ?
Could this be the issue why smearing is clearly more visible in PAL material?

Mmika,

Your tip really helped, thanks!
I still notice some dithering in digital TV sendings, but green noise is almost totally gone. Much much better picture! :)
I might actually get it even better by reducing brightness even more, but picture is already quite dark so I am happy with your values.

No smearing is visible in my H30, but I have occasionally seen some kind of skin color "roughness"in some DVDs and digital TV sendings. Don't really know how to call it, but I would assume someone has already written about it in these 321 pages. :) Its kinda like too much contrast in skin tones.

Originally posted by MMika
Thanks.
I don't quite understand what you mean with the sound delay?
Could it be DVB (Digital Broadcasting) releated? I recall that there are some sound-delay settings in DVB-boxes to adjust this.

Maybe it is DVB related, because I mostly look at a new sport channel which is also broadcast digitally but I receive it via cable (analog).

I just watched it a few minutes ago and everything seems OK now.
No delay in sound. It may well be that this delay is not visual via my TV because of the smaller screen.
Will keep you informed.

Thanks for the Gurus in this forum to inform OPTOMA about this smear issue in PAL.

My H30 was delivered yesterday! I had a class last night and got home at 10:30, so I haven't even opened it yet. Again, I might not be able to see it till late tonight. AARRGGH!!!!

Originally posted by utente
My H30 was delivered yesterday! I had a class last night and got home at 10:30, so I haven't even opened it yet. Again, I might not be able to see it till late tonight. AARRGGH!!!!

What kind of screen do you have? Welcome to the club.

"SMEARING-EFFECT + NO SMEARING after resync
http://www.pbase.com/image/32732501

I have C07 but I remember seeing this in C05 as well."

MMika,
The C07 firmware has a feature under the USER1 save settings, RGB or YUV. Try switching one of these to see if it help also.

On the filters - I forgot about the tabs on the lens mask. They stick out too far to make use of the 72mm I bought. The space between the tabs is 56mm so I'll have to exchange it for a 55mm. That should work pretty well - that way the tabs on the mask will hold the filter on.

I'm considering the H30 and the 4805, I like what I've been reading on the H30. In your opinions does the H30 still rate as a good value being about $100 less than the 4805. Also is light spill obliterated with the mask they now provide?

Originally posted by guitarman
MMika,
The C07 firmware has a feature under the USER1 save settings, RGB or YUV. Try switching one of these to see if it help also. [/B]

Yes I saw this. It's for colorspace-selection.
Don't much help to select RGB-colorspace for YUV-signal - the effect is pretty much same when if you connect R/G/B-cables to wrong connectors :)

Originally posted by Scarpad
I'm considering the H30 and the 4805, I like what I've been reading on the H30. In your opinions does the H30 still rate as a good value being about $100 less than the 4805. Also is light spill obliterated with the mask they now provide?
IMHO- either one would serve you very well. I happen to enjoy large 4:3 display for computer gaming and sports on cable. A 16:9 projector and screen can't deliver as well in that respect. For my install (relatively dark walls) the lens mask doesn't do much so I don't use it. I don't find the light spill objectionable.

Cheers!

My room is 10 feet wide by about 22 feet long. I figure i would have to cieling mount the projector about 15 ft or so back to get a 96" wide screen . I was considering a pull down D-Lite. I''m wondering if I could have a screen that large. I have about 122" wall to wall. And on one side of the wall i have small shelves and a small dvd rack I have ample clearance for the screen but I wonder if I would have display issues. Do uoi think that size screen too large for that size room?

Guitarman-
No screen yet. We've just moved into a new apartment and are setting it up. So far, with the 4800 from Costco (which I'll return if --as I expect) I like the h30 more, we're using the white wall. It's just the right size.)

I keep forgetting that the 4800 came with a roll-down screen that I haven't even tried. We'll see.

OK Guys I've joined the Club. There was a 50 off coupon thru Dell so I ordered an H30 for $1349. After reading this forum and others it convinced me. I also ordered a Universal Mount but I think I'll be running the projector on a stand on my seating platform until I get it hung. I'll also probably be using a white sheet until I can get a good 16 x 9 pulldown screen. In my setup the pulldown will sit in front of a Recessed Mitsubishi 65807.

I'm also going to need probably a 25-30 foot run of component cables I understand the projector comes with a VGA to component adaptor.


Anyhow glad to be in the club. Can't wait to see the Projector !

Welcome to the club Scarpad :)

Some things I'd suggest:
* Take a look at forum sponsors such as RAM for the cable, a little more expensive but probably better on a longish run. You could either run a long component cable up there or if you have any needs for PC connection, etc.- you could run a 15 pin VGA cable up there from a switchbox attaching the adapter the switchbox instead.
* Check with Dalite or ask around here about tensioned vs. non tensioned screens for pulldowns to eliminate waves. I have no experience in this area as I made a DIY blackout cloth and wood frame screen.
* Pick up a copy of the "AVIA guide to home theater" for fine tuning of the image. A pricegrabber search will show who's got a great price on it.

Other-
* 96" wide screen should be fine if you have pretty good light control in the room.
* From 15' throw distance you will have a pretty substantial offset (center of lens down to top of image) on a 16:9 image if your unit comes with C05 firmware, perhaps as much as ~26-28". You are going about it the right way in that you are getting the H30 first and using a temp screen setup before you buy. Hold the H30 upside down at the 15' distance and you'll see how far down the wall your image will be. This will give you some good data for screen ordering and positioning. If that offset doesn't work as well for you- C07 firmware eliminates it.

Enjoy that thing!!

Cheers!

Utente-

How are you liking your new toy? That's two evenings now right? :)

Cheers!

Hello,

I´m from Spain and i have the same problem that MMika, any fix or new firmware to fix it?

Guitarman can you help us?


Greetings from Valencia(Spain)

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Welcome to the club Scarpad :)

Some things I'd suggest:
* Take a look at forum sponsors such as RAM for the cable, a little more expensive but probably better on a longish run. You could either run a long component cable up there or if you have any needs for PC connection, etc.- you could run a 15 pin VGA cable up there from a switchbox attaching the adapter the switchbox instead.
* Check with Dalite or ask around here about tensioned vs. non tensioned screens for pulldowns to eliminate waves. I have no experience in this area as I made a DIY blackout cloth and wood frame screen.
* Pick up a copy of the "AVIA guide to home theater" for fine tuning of the image. A pricegrabber search will show who's got a great price on it.

Other-
* 96" wide screen should be fine if you have pretty good light control in the room.
* From 15' throw distance you will have a pretty substantial offset (center of lens down to top of image) on a 16:9 image if your unit comes with C05 firmware, perhaps as much as ~26-28". You are going about it the right way in that you are getting the H30 first and using a temp screen setup before you buy. Hold the H30 upside down at the 15' distance and you'll see how far down the wall your image will be. This will give you some good data for screen ordering and positioning. If that offset doesn't work as well for you- C07 firmware eliminates it.

Enjoy that thing!!

Cheers!

I own both Avia and VE I used them both before I got my Mit ISF'd.
And I still use them now. My Cielings are fairly high but there's like a cieling beam that divides the room that comes down about 10" so the mount I get will need to clear than and still hit the screen. I'm nervous about the install because while I know RPTV's real well Projectors and screens are still a mystery to me even thou I've been reading up.

When you say hold the projector upside down from the throw distance do you mean at the mounting point ?

Also I have an older but good Toshiba SD6200 progressive DVD Player that I think I'll use, but I have an HTPC with Sage TV installed my only concern is messing with the resolution to get it correct. Also the connection to my receiver might be problamatic


Anyhow thanks for the welcome.

Originally posted by Scarpad
When you say hold the projector upside down from the throw distance do you mean at the mounting point ?

Yes... to give you an idea of the offset for your given throw as a screen placement aid.

Sounds like you're set with most of the goodies you need...

hey guys

wondering if anyone can recomend a UPS,We lose power for a second several times a year.

not takiing the chance in blowing a bulb everytime it happens,they are too expensive.

Don't really know much about these things.(as far as how good of one to get so it will alow me to shutdown the PJ properly)

Gottahav--

It's not fair. Wasn't home last night, and I'm leaving to visit my father in Arizona tonight. So, best case is that I'll get to see it in action on Sunday night. Worst case, Monday night. I'd play with it today, but I want my first look to be when it's nice and dark.

Just a few minutes ago, though, I finally opened the box!

This has been a source of a lot of discussion in other threads here. Lower cost UPS's produce a square wave which has been debated (to death) as to whether this causes more harm than good to the units power supply. In the end the manufacturers gave an indication that this basically a PC's power supply (not fussy about power) and any UPS will pretty much do.

I am about ready to pull the trigger on the APC BE500U for around $50-60. That one should give you ample time to shut down the unit properly. I have had very good luck with APC products through work.

The scary event I had a few weeks ago was a on-off-on-off-on power flicker in about a 3-4 second period. The H30 shut off then tried to power itself back on and then shut off again with the orange lamp light glowing, yikes! I unplugged it for a 1/2 hour and then fired it back up with no issues. Ugly treatment of a electronic device though....

thanks for the info,could more people chime in on this one please.

The problem is,Several times a year in this house(old house)The power will turn off then right back on in a second.Pretty much just like gottahavepj explained.There's no way i could even get the cord fast enough to yank it out if i had to,I imagine you wouldnt want it powering on right away after the power went out.

I can't be blowing bulbs everytime this happens..

And thats what most likely would happen right?

Originally posted by Scarpad
OK Guys I've joined the Club. There was a 50 off coupon thru Dell so I ordered an H30 for $1349. After reading this forum and others it convinced me. I also ordered a Universal Mount but I think I'll be running the projector on a stand on my seating platform until I get it hung. I'll also probably be using a white sheet until I can get a good 16 x 9 pulldown screen. In my setup the pulldown will sit in front of a Recessed Mitsubishi 65807.

I'm also going to need probably a 25-30 foot run of component cables I understand the projector comes with a VGA to component adaptor.


Anyhow glad to be in the club. Can't wait to see the Projector !

Re the 96" screen I assume you mean 96"wide which is pretty big. But the H30 has a ton of light so it will do a 96" wide screen no problemo. The thing you have to think of is the two times the screen width viewing distance. Enjoy your new machine. IMO it has the best colors and smothest picture and is par excellent in showing details in the blacks.
You're in good company. :)

Originally posted by guitarman
Re the 96" screen I assume you mean 96"wide which is pretty big. But the H30 has a ton of light so it will do a 96" wide screen no problemo. The thing you have to think of is the two times the screen width viewing distance. Enjoy your new machine. IMO it has the best colors and smothest picture and is par excellent in showing details in the blacks.
You're in good company. :)



Well maybe I'm going for over kill. My THeater is 11fet x 22 ft long.
I have to Lazyboys for Front chairs (For Wife and I) about 11 Ft from where the screen would be mounted. In back of the recliners are 2 rows of Theater Seats and they are probably 13-16 Ft back. Currently we view a 65" Mits (which will still be used for everything Non-movie). I'm hoping the Front seats are'nt too close.

The blacks on my Mits are excellent so I'm glad to hear the optoma handles blacks well.

Before you get a screen better test out the viewing distances first. The two times the width does apply, though you may be able to chop off 1 or 2 feet. :)

11' back from an 8ft wide screen doesn't work. You'll start to see the pixels no matter how smooth the H30 is.

I view 14' back from 7.5' wide screen, which is ok for me.

Actually now that I think about it my distances are not written in stone we build the seating platform so it could be pushed back and my recliners can go back , so if I knock things back a few feet I should be fine.....


BTW I'm going to need a run of about 30 Feet of Component cabling do you have any suggestions?

Belden Cables w/Canare ends would be nice for high end. Otherwise picture quality will still look fine with budget models. Some users go DIY and get RG6 cable and put Canare ends on.

Originally posted by EyeOfNewt
thanks for the info,could more people chime in on this one please.

The problem is,Several times a year in this house(old house)The power will turn off then right back on in a second.Pretty much just like gottahavepj explained.There's no way i could even get the cord fast enough to yank it out if i had to,I imagine you wouldnt want it powering on right away after the power went out.

I can't be blowing bulbs everytime this happens..

And thats what most likely would happen right?
Well I didn't make it back into the other room to pull the power cord until this event had been over for 30 seconds or so. It doesn't automatically blow the bulb if this happens.

Point is that from what I can gather re-striking a hot bulb is the worst thing you can do to a projector. Mine tried to do it and just gave a bad lamp indicator so I unplugged it, let it cool down and then restarted it no problem. With that UPS I could have shut it down gracefully though.

Cheers!

Hey Tom - my neighbor who has been tortured watching my HT1000 ( 'cause he wanted one himself ) ordered an H30 yesterday for his first pj, based on my recommendation after seeing yours!!!

My H30 shipped already by Airbourne gotta hand it to Dell they got it out the door.

Originally posted by Craig Peer
Hey Tom - my neighbor who has been tortured watching my HT1000 ( 'cause he wanted one himself ) ordered an H30 yesterday for his first pj, based on my recommendation after seeing yours!!!

Great, too bad I picked up your Electrosol 120" it would hv been a good deal for him. Maybe a bit large, 80X60 would also be a good match.

Originally posted by Scarpad
My H30 shipped already by Airbourne gotta hand it to Dell they got it out the door.

What day do you get it? Pop on any movie that displays might have trouble with the detail in blacks.

Originally posted by guitarman
What day do you get it? Pop on any movie that displays might have trouble with the detail in blacks.

I should have it by Monday I imagine.

Just tried a 55 mm FL-D filter with the lens mask. You need to bend the tabs of the lens mask out at bit, but then the filter fits snugly inside it. I need to spend more time with it but there's a definite improvement in contrast and blacks. We'll see how it goes.

Scarpad, don't expect the H30 to have the same black depth and detail as your Mits (it certainly doesn't have the same as mine), but I think you'll be impressed nonetheless.

BTW, there's been a price decrease on the H30 so it's an even better deal now. :D

Mike, good idea attach it to the lens mask. What you'll notice is you'll like the image of the projector without the lens. Then you'll put the lens on and at first not like it. You'll view some scenes for awhile and then remove it for a shock. Then you'll start thinking the lens could be a good thing. lol

That's what happened to me. :)

Scarpad, that's quick enough. Let us know how you like it and what firmware you have? You don't need to go into the service menu, just see were the 16.9 falls. Bottom of the chip/ or top of the chip. Top is C07

Any suggestions for out of the box tweaks I should do right away? I know from CRT's that you have to take them out of ttorch mode immediately, what's the first thing I should do with the H30?

Als I'm trying to decide if I should test it first with my Toshiba SD6200 or my HT PC and VGA input. I have'nt decided which I'm going to use first. The whole resolution thing on the HTPC is boggling my mind, plus then I'll have to figure a connection between the sound card and reciever, I'm leaning toward the HTPC so I can keep my Tosh on the mits. What's the max length I can run a VGA cord out of the PC into the Optoma ?

I've heard 25'.

Flip throught the H30 menu's, put picture to cinema and image to Film,
Try color temp 2 and gamma 2.

Originally posted by Scarpad
Any suggestions for out of the box tweaks I should do right away? I know from CRT's that you have to take them out of ttorch mode immediately, what's the first thing I should do with the H30?
Unless it has a really bad push out of the box I wouldn't put major effort into it. I've gathered that bulbs should be allowed to "settle in" for ~100 hours before major effort is made on tweaking. Just enjoy those movies! :)

Als I'm trying to decide if I should test it first with my Toshiba SD6200 or my HT PC and VGA input. I have'nt decided which I'm going to use first. The whole resolution thing on the HTPC is boggling my mind, plus then I'll have to figure a connection between the sound card and reciever, I'm leaning toward the HTPC so I can keep my Tosh on the mits. What's the max length I can run a VGA cord out of the PC into the Optoma ?
I've got my PC and my DVD player hooked up to a VGA AB switchbox and then a good quality 25' VGA cable going up to the projector from there. I was able to check back and forth between this and just a 3' component cable before mounting and I detected no difference in quality.

I struggle with the HTPC thing also. I would need to do several upgrades to my PC to make it capable of assuming this role. The added image detail and clarity when you get it setup properly appear to be dramatic though. I try to follow the discussions in the Ffdshow thread in the HTPC forum and it makes my head hurt. :) I'm not sure I want to devote that much time and effort continually tweaking that could be spent watching...

Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman
I've heard 25'.

Flip throught the H30 menu's, put picture to cinema and image to Film,
Try color temp 2 and gamma 2.
As a side note to Tom's always good advice- my unit displays noisy blacks if I'm on anything but gamma 1. Try flipping back and forth between those two.

Have a great weekend all!

How does everyone feel the picture is with a good quality Progressive scan DVD Player ? I've owned the SD6200 tosh for a while. I've always looked at newer models but this cinema series player is just so rock solid. I'm thinking it would do a decent job. I was also thinking I could get 3 30 ft runs of RG6 put some good ends on them and it would be alot cheaper to buy this at Home Depot.

The picture is excellent with my Panasonic RP-82. Your Toshiba is a good unit and you may not see much of an improvement going to a better one using Faroudja or Silicon Image deinterlacing. I would recommend getting a decent (not expensive) component cable over using RG6. If 25' is long enough, I've had good results with these (http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=2010&sku=27084).

Originally posted by guitarman
What you'll notice is you'll like the image of the projector without the lens. Then you'll put the lens on and at first not like it. You'll view some scenes for awhile and then remove it for a shock. Then you'll start thinking the lens could be a good thing. lol

That's what happened to me. :)


I put the FL-D filter on but wasn't thrilled with the result. It seemed to redden up the image a lot and wash it out (probably just the decrease in brightness that I'm seeing). Maybe I need to tweak the settings a bit and give it a chance...

Originally posted by MikeSRC
The picture is excellent with my Panasonic RP-82. Your Toshiba is a good unit and you may not see much of an improvement going to a better one using Faroudja or Silicon Image deinterlacing. I would recommend getting a decent (not expensive) component cable over using RG6. If 25' is long enough, I've had good results with these (http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=2010&sku=27084).

Would I see a Marked improvement with my HTPC running 800x600 or 1280x720.
Probably but then it would be a bit more problmatical to set up.

mjolson,
experimenting with color filters really requires calibration tools.

FL-D is most effective on higher color temperatures like #3 - the red counteracts the blue/green. Of course when you first put it on - it will look red - because you are used to the blue/green. If you have test patterns that enable you to open up the RGB gains then it becomes most effective to expose the native blue/green of the lamp.

What I see when I remove the lens seems washed out in comparison. This morning I re-tuned with the lens on. Just had to move the brighntess one click, contrast was left the same, even to color test left things the same. I like the red the filter adds, it's what I'm use to seeing when a display gets tuned to 6500k. Keep trying

Which DVD Player Software works best In your opinion for strictly Playing DVD's

Originally posted by krasmuzik
mjolson,
experimenting with color filters really requires calibration tools.

FL-D is most effective on higher color temperatures like #3 - the red counteracts the blue/green. Of course when you first put it on - it will look red - because you are used to the blue/green. If you have test patterns that enable you to open up the RGB gains then it becomes most effective to expose the native blue/green of the lamp.

After seeing the colorfacts results during the shootout at your place, I decided to give my Hoya FLD another go (Using the colder color temp, 2, as you recommended). It really has grown on me. I like how the filter not only makes red less orangey, but also smooths out the digital look of the picture (slightly). I've been using the filter for just over a month now and will continue to do so, unless the bulb significantly dims.

After doing some reading I decided to go with Theatertek already go tit installed and I'm doing some FFdshow tweaking. Very Nice can't wait to see it projected !

I'd really like to try the FL-D filter, but I have the C03 firmware and when I chose color temperature 1 it was clearly the coolest. Color temp 2 seemed closest to 6500k and color temp 3 was too warm.

Guitarman, do you think that the color temperature settings might have changed with the newer firm ware releases?

Fabbas,

I measured DaGamePimps c05 machine at 7500K, 9500K, 11500K. I guess that is why they are numbered rather than named - they reserve right to change the settings!

For FLD-D tweaking to work you want the one that has the brightest blue/green (i.e. cyan) whites.

Originally posted by jeff442
After seeing the colorfacts results during the shootout at your place, I decided to give my Hoya FLD another go (Using the colder color temp, 2, as you recommended). It really has grown on me. I like how the filter not only makes red less orangey, but also smooths out the digital look of the picture (slightly). I've been using the filter for just over a month now and will continue to do so, unless the bulb significantly dims.

The projector is still amazingly bright with the filter on. Not so with other projectors I've had so we should be ok using the filter for some time. Choices could be using high lamp or just removing the filter. Or maybe even a gamma boost.

Originally posted by Fabbas
I'd really like to try the FL-D filter, but I have the C03 firmware and when I chose color temperature 1 it was clearly the coolest. Color temp 2 seemed closest to 6500k and color temp 3 was too warm.

Guitarman, do you think that the color temperature settings might have changed with the newer firm ware releases?

Yes just use your eye to see which color temp you like with the filter. Seems to me things were in reverse with the C03 firmware. I think I wrote about that early on. Either direction for red you'll probably be ok with the center color temp.

The reason I brought up the FLD filter is it's so cheap and a usefull lens to keep around house for future projectors. Everybody might as well have one.

Originally posted by Fabbas
I'd really like to try the FL-D filter, but I have the C03 firmware and when I chose color temperature 1 it was clearly the coolest. Color temp 2 seemed closest to 6500k and color temp 3 was too warm.

Guitarman, do you think that the color temperature settings might have changed with the newer firm ware releases?

I thought that color temp 1 leaned towards red (warmer), color temp 3 the most blue (cooler), and color temp 2 was in the middle. I remember Kras stating, during the meet, that the combination of color temp 2 and a filter would probably be the best way to achieve 6500k.

Seems it's this way now with the C05 firmware. Pretty sure it was reversed on C03.

Originally posted by guitarman
Always make them get u a tracking number. It puts the pressure on.

Looks to me the color temp options are reverse to what you would think.

There's color temp
One, Two, Three

You would think 1 is low but this is the bluer temp.

To my eye, 2 is 6500k, 1 is higher like 8500k, 3 is the lowest 5500k

You can see these clearer with a black and white movie, color temp 3 is the way to go for B&W. It puts a little color to a B&W movie.

I resurrected my post from way back near page 10 and I have to say it was very interesting reading the early days of the H30. You could see the development of the PJ and the many begging for the chip to be opened to 800X600. If was a fun trip all the way. :)

So with the above it's seems C03 was in reverse re color temp.

Quick question on Modes and resolution for HTPC users out there. I'm getting my projector today and want to try it out either tonight or tommorrow night. I'm going to be using Theatertek. It has an anamorphic mode and a 16x9 mode. I imagine I will select it either to source or anamorphic and I should be good on the PC side. On the Projector side If I set the Projector to 16x9 native do I need to set the PC to output 1280x720 or can that mode still be run in 800x600 resolution? If I use the plain 16x9 mode am I losing the anamorphic enhancement of my dvd's ?

My main viewing with be widescreen DVD's either 1.85 or 2.35. When setting up the projector will these formats be displayed without messing with settings? Also should i use the Light mask immediately or set things up without it?

I went and bought a good thick white sheet to use as a setup tool prior to getting and hanging a screen. I'm really new to FP so any help appreciated.

Originally posted by Scarpad
Quick question on Modes and resolution for HTPC users out there. I'm getting my projector today and want to try it out either tonight or tommorrow night. I'm going to be using Theatertek. It has an anamorphic mode and a 16x9 mode. I imagine I will select it either to source or anamorphic and I should be good on the PC side. On the Projector side If I set the Projector to 16x9 native do I need to set the PC to output 1280x720 or can that mode still be run in 800x600 resolution? If I use the plain 16x9 mode am I losing the anamorphic enhancement of my dvd's ?

My main viewing with be widescreen DVD's either 1.85 or 2.35. When setting up the projector will these formats be displayed without messing with settings? Also should i use the Light mask immediately or set things up without it?

I went and bought a good thick white sheet to use as a setup tool prior to getting and hanging a screen. I'm really new to FP so any help appreciated.

I have my HTPC set for 800x600, and have the H30 scale it to 800x450. The desktop looks funny, but DVD's are great. Then, select 4:3 in Theatertek and disable the aspect ratio check box. Works perfect.

The 16x9 native mode is interesting. It "should" crop the sides of the image to acheive 800x480, but does not do so with an HTPC. It sees 848x480 as 852x480 and then stretches the image vertically, but no cropping on the sides. I imagine you could correct this by playing with the AR controls in Theatertek.

1280x720 works, but really changes the colors for some reason. I personally keep going back to the 800x600 resolution - it just seems to work the best, and no Powerstrip required.

Originally posted by mjolson
I have my HTPC set for 800x600, and have the H30 scale it to 800x450. The desktop looks funny, but DVD's are great. Then, select 4:3 in Theatertek and disable the aspect ratio check box. Works perfect.

The 16x9 native mode is interesting. It "should" crop the sides of the image to acheive 800x480, but does not do so with an HTPC. It sees 848x480 as 852x480 and then stretches the image vertically, but no cropping on the sides. I imagine you could correct this by playing with the AR controls in Theatertek.

1280x720 works, but really changes the colors for some reason. I personally keep going back to the 800x600 resolution - it just seems to work the best, and no Powerstrip required.

So on the optoma what do you have set just 16x9 mode? and when you have it set for 1280x720 waht setting on the optoma are you using?

Yes, 16:9 mode (non-native) for both.

Originally posted by guitarman
Yes it shuts down and goes into a standby mode. Manual says to turn off the AC power when not using for a long period of time. What ever long perion of time means. I leave mine in Standby, it stays slightly warm like most any of device in standby.

About the 800X480p 16.9Native. You are correct in your thinking. To make use of this aspect it helps having an easy adjusting ceiling mount. I do use 800X480p for 1.85 and 2.35 DVDs. But in this mode if you switch over to HDTV the picture becomes larger and has to be reset/zoomed on the screen.

If you use the scaling aspects, 16.9 4.3. All formats can be setup and used without any changes.

Since my mount adjusts easy when I'm going to watch mainly DVD I'll reset the PJ to make use of the 480P. 480p has more pixels so you have to zoom down to make a 1.85 movie fit. This zooming down makes the pixels smaller/more res. Plus the image is larger when viewing a 2.35 movie.

People that don't want the hassle can choose the scaling setup. The scaler does a wonderfull job and it's hard to see a difference in picture quality. I haven't seen any.

Tom Regarding this older post.... if I'm concerned with strictly DVD, and I'll be watching mainly 1.85 and 2.35 films (with a few older 4:3 classics)
and I want to maximize anamorphic enhancement with as little fiddling at the projector as possible, what mode would be best?

I know thats alot to follow thanks

Originally posted by mjolson
I have my HTPC set for 800x600, and have the H30 scale it to 800x450. The desktop looks funny, but DVD's are great. Then, select 4:3 in Theatertek and disable the aspect ratio check box. Works perfect.

The 16x9 native mode is interesting. It "should" crop the sides of the image to acheive 800x480, but does not do so with an HTPC. It sees 848x480 as 852x480 and then stretches the image vertically, but no cropping on the sides. I imagine you could correct this by playing with the AR controls in Theatertek.

1280x720 works, but really changes the colors for some reason. I personally keep going back to the 800x600 resolution - it just seems to work the best, and no Powerstrip required.

I tried other refresh rates at 75hz, 85hz and 56hz with NTSC and I still find the 60hz the most stable without any tearing or sparklies.
Mind you I am running 800x450 with powerstrip settings which give me a 16:9 desktop so it works perfectly with ym 16:9 screen. See my link. You will see on the closeup of the powerstrip settings that the text looks like it is pixel correct. It is very clear too.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
800x450=800,48,128,80,450,85,4,89,39937,272
once entered it will go to 80hz and I turn it down to 60hz. When I try to run 800x450 @ 80 hz the H30 resync and thinks its 120hz..really bizzare.
.

But at 800x450 are'nt you losing some resolution on the DVD's?

Yes, you are, but at 16:9 Native, you're losing some of the picture. Both look equally good, so I wouldn't worry about the small resolution loss.

Personally, I use 16:9 Native to get the larger picture (vertically) with 2.35:1 DVDs and 16:9 with 1.85:1 DVDs, on a 16:9 screen.

Originally posted by Scarpad
But at 800x450 are'nt you losing some resolution on the DVD's?

I might be incorrect in this assumption but the DVD software players re-scales to the resolution (such as when you make it into a window on the windows desktop) to fit 800x450 so it is all the information.

Originally posted by Saturn_AD
I tried other refresh rates at 75hz, 85hz and 56hz with NTSC and I still find the 60hz the most stable without any tearing or sparklies.
Mind you I am running 800x450 with powerstrip settings which give me a 16:9 desktop so it works perfectly with ym 16:9 screen. See my link. You will see on the closeup of the powerstrip settings that the text looks like it is pixel correct. It is very clear too.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
800x450=800,48,128,80,450,85,4,89,39937,272
once entered it will go to 80hz and I turn it down to 60hz. When I try to run 800x450 @ 80 hz the H30 resync and thinks its 120hz..really bizzare.
.

I've tried your timings before, but my H30 just won't take it - it just reports 640x480. What drivers are you using?

Boy I'm confused. If I want to retain the full anamorphic enhancement and I want to get the full image on 2:35 and 1:85 disks. So far I could leave it at 800x600 , or go with 800x450 , or try 1280x720. With any of these resolution what would be best for the above situation?

BTW I have a Geforce 4 ti4200

This is why I just keep dumping movies into my DVD player and pressing play. :)

Conscerning the buzzing some owners of esp. the earlier models have been experiencing, this is a reply from optoma support i got recently;

original message;

Hello,

In februari this year I bought a H30 a dealer in Amstelveen, the Netherlands.

I'd like to start by saying that I have so far verry much enjoyed my projector, but my projector is making a high pitched buzzing noise that is becoming a growing conscern to me.

The buzzing started about three months ago. At first I hoped it would disappear as sudden as it had come, but unfortunately with three months passed now this doesnt seem likely.

The projector is only buzzing when a signal is fed to it, swells on to a really loud level and then fades, to get louder again not much later.
Its so loud that it can still be heard verry clearly in noisy scenes of a movie.
To some point the noise is really starting to spoil the whole experience.

I've read on the internet on the avsforum that other people have units with the same problem, seamingly all early models and that it might have something to do with the color wheel.

Supposedly your technical department is aware of the problem and working on a solution.

Can u offer me any kind of solution?

Your sincerely,

Bart Alders
Haarlem, The Netherlands.


Reply;

Hello Bart the problem that you are having sounds like its coming from the
color wheel and may need to have the wheel changed for the very early
models of H30 has a different color wheel that leeks oil and dries out bearings.
The new and improved wheel does not have this problem please ring 01923691800 and ask to book your unit in for repair under warranty.

Thanks

Optoma
customer services.




So there you have it. Sending mine in today.

Full resolution of a DVD is 854 X 480. Since the H30 can't go above 800 horizontally, it's rescaling the image to 800 X 450. You're getting the full image, but at slightly lower resolution. Using Native 16:9 gives you the full 480 vertical resolution, but to maintain the correct aspect ratio, it has to crop 27 pixels off each side of the image horizontally. At normal viewing distances, there is really no apparent difference in picture quality.

Bart, good info, I haven't heard much talk lately about the bearing noise. Not sure whether the guys ever sent there's in for a fix. Looks like a problem from the past now.

Not sure what firmware you have on your Themescene but most likely when you send it in you'll be updated to C07. If you don't know the main difference is C07 cuts the offset down by putting a 16.9 image at the top of the 4.3chip.

Any word of a fix for the PAL smearing problem yet ?

The guys were hitting the re-sync button to fix . The tech over here said he doesn't really work with pal and users should contact the local techs if they're still having problems.

No problem with buzzing.
I had a problem when switching from dvd to satelite..... green bar.
Sent it in 2 day turn around working like a charm.

Excellent customer service from Will in Toronto , Canada.


Love this h30 baby.

Just have to figure out the color setting a bit better.
Seem to me when it left had a red push ....
When it came back it was a green push ?
I have dve but find it confusing (i use monster inc instead ).

KenW

Ken-

If you have a problem with greens- DVE is not going to help. Several of us have not been able to get the green test to display accurately even though red and blue performed as advertised. This is a head scratcher.

Cheers!

Originally posted by Saturn_AD
I tried other refresh rates at 75hz, 85hz and 56hz with NTSC and I still find the 60hz the most stable without any tearing or sparklies.
Mind you I am running 800x450 with powerstrip settings which give me a 16:9 desktop so it works perfectly with ym 16:9 screen. See my link. You will see on the closeup of the powerstrip settings that the text looks like it is pixel correct. It is very clear too.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
800x450=800,48,128,80,450,85,4,89,39937,272
once entered it will go to 80hz and I turn it down to 60hz. When I try to run 800x450 @ 80 hz the H30 resync and thinks its 120hz..really bizzare.
.

When I enter these timings I get an 800x450 desktop centered within an 800x600 area. Windows still reports 800x600, as does the H30, however the desktop is clearly 800x450 (and razor sharp too!). If I set the H30 to 4:3 mode, I can move the image vertically (using Powerstrip) to match my screen - very handy! I don't understand why windows won't actually take the resolution, but for now it looks really good.

I'm officially an H30 owner. Tonight I fired up my H30 with my HTPC. It is a down and dirt test of the projector basically I put it up on a Rolling stand I had about 2 feet in front of where it will be cieling mounted. Here's my initial impresson, now bear in mind this was displayed on a King Size White Bed Sheet of fairly good thickness.

My unit must have the new firmware since it displays in the to half of the chip.

I Demoed Attack of the Clones, Finding Nemo, and Fellowship of the Ring.

I set the Zoom about half way and focused. Now bearing in mind this thing was projected on a sheet I'm pretty impressed. The Blacks are not equal to my CRT Mits nor did I expect them to be. But they are very very good and better than I expected from a Projector.

Light Spill: well this is a bit of a negative, but it gets alot better with the masking, and when I get a real screen and hang my theater Curtains (which the wife is making for me !) I exect it to be alot better. A Question on the mask. Does this thing stay on your projectors all the time, it does not look like the lense cap will fit over it. And I don't want to be inserting it all the time nor mucking with the focus ring once set. I want to use the lense cap however.

The issue with the buzz. Well my unit does buzz slightly if I hold my ear to the projector but I cannot hear it otherwise. The fan is alot quieter than I thought it would be. Do you guys leave it in the "Eco" Mode?

My unit was set already to Cinema and film. I tried the Gamma at both 1 and 2 and I have to say I think I prefer 2. The blacks are not noisey at all on 2. I have color temp set to 2 as well. The other settings I'm not sure about but at 0 for brightness it looks too bright I think . I tried lowering it to -20 and -32 and the colors seem alot more vibrant at lower brightness levels. Where do you all keep yours. I did not mess at all with the advanced adjustments.

The PC and resolution. Well this is up in the air. I tried the pc at both 800x600 and 1280x720. My card does do 1280x720. To get the aspect ratio to look correct at 800x600 I think I have to have the projector at 4:3 and the PJ I think at 16:9. At 1280x720 I think both were at 16:9. I'm still undecided which look better I might give the slight not to the 1280x720 but it's close and I'm not sure there. Colors looked good non Nemo but seemed a little less vibrant on Live action stuff. But they looked pretty good but given that it's on a bedsheet I'm done treaking until i get a real screen.

It's real hard to hold the PJ up to the cieling now until I get the pc up on the top of the cart, but anyhow i'm afraid to handle the PJ while it's running, does moving the thing while on affect the bulb ? Speaking of the bulb I have one hour on it now !.

Mounting, aiming, adjusting etc. Well my mount did not come today probably tommorrow but i'm already thinking I'm gonna need to get some professional help hanging the Screen, PJ and mount and making sure it's all adjusted properly. I just don't know enough to take a chance on doing it myself. A CRT RPTV no prob but this is a different beast.

Let me just finish up this long diatribe by saying that I'm pretty blown away by what this PJ is kicking out. Once mounted I'm sure I will be really happy!
Any settings suggestions you are willing to share would be appreciated.

Dave

Good for you Dave :)

I suspect as you get things more dialed in and mounted it will be better yet.

Mask- most leave it on all the time. I do not use it anymore as my ceiling mount position and wall colors have negated its benefit. I noticed a slight dimming of the image at the bottom with it on. YMMV...

Eco mode- I (and I think most others) leave it in eco mode. Bulb life may be extended, fan is quieter and as the bulb starts to age and lose some punch (hopefully 2,000 hours from now) you could gain a little brightness back by turning it off.

Buzz- if you have to stick your ear on the projector to hear any buzzing- you're in good shape.

I didn't hurt anything by holding the projector upside down while running when I was sizing up my screen location. My H30 mounting location was fixed by a header wall. Probably keep your hands clear of the vents.

Enjoy that thing!! :)

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Good for you Dave :)

I suspect as you get things more dialed in and mounted it will be better yet.

Mask- most leave it on all the time. I do not use it anymore as my ceiling mount position and wall colors have negated its benefit. I noticed a slight dimming of the image at the bottom with it on. YMMV...

Eco mode- I (and I think most others) leave it in eco mode. Bulb life may be extended, fan is quieter and as the bulb starts to age and lose some punch (hopefully 2,000 hours from now) you could gain a little brightness back by turning it off.

Buzz- if you have to stick your ear on the projector to hear any buzzing- you're in good shape.

I didn't hurt anything by holding the projector upside down while running when I was sizing up my screen location. My H30 mounting location was fixed by a header wall. Probably keep your hands clear of the vents.
Enjoy that thing!! :)

As far as the mask goes I take it the lens cap does not fit while it's on, can dust become an issue?

I'm not sure how much more it can be dialed in until it burns in a little and I get a screen and get it mounted.. I'll have the mount I ordered coming Tommorrow and while it looks like it'll have plenty of adjustment leway I still am nervous of mounting the thing and then not being able to get it alligned with the screen and the offset correct.

Originally posted by Scarpad
As far as the mask goes I take it the lens cap does not fit while it's on, can dust become an issue?
You can get some of those lens cleaning cloth things from a camera store. I haven't touched my lens yet after several months.

I'm not sure how much more it can be dialed in until it burns in a little and I get a screen and get it mounted.. I'll have the mount I ordered coming Tommorrow and while it looks like it'll have plenty of adjustment leway I still am nervous of mounting the thing and then not being able to get it alligned with the screen and the offset correct.
If you're at all handy it's not that hard. Give it a shot, so you gotta patch a few holes in sheetrock :) My biggest challenge was that my screen is angled out slightly from the wall it's hanging in front of. Trying to get the placement of the projector in order to throw a perfectly aligned image on that angled screen gave me a few fits. If all your pieces will be parallel to walls it won't be that hard.

Cheers!

Regarding the PAL smearing effect: Hitting re-sync doesn't fix the problem even temporarily for me. I have the c05 firmware and I am using an interlaced signal. I'll try to find out the proper place to report this issue here in Europe. Hopefully they'll come up with a fix for this as this is the only real problem I've had with the H30.

I have just emailed Optoma and told them I am still having the smearing issue and included the link to the screenshot that appeared on this thread earlier.
Hopefully I will hear back from them sometime today.

I screwed up and created a thread with this question when I intended to ask this here. Anyway...

Thinking about getting the H30. If I were to also want to watch HDTV would I be better off with perhaps an Optoma 735 or other xga or perhaps a Benq6200 or does the H30 do a good enough job with 1080. Cant afford the H77.

Don't look at the business projectors like a 735 for HT. They sacrifice the rich color saturation needed for HT in favor of resolution and high brightness.

I don't have HD as both cable and OTA offerings are weak here. I have downloaded some 720P clips from Microsofts web site that look very good. While the extra resolution would be nice to have like you point out with the H77- lower res projectors like the H30 and 4805 can still benefit from HD (even though they're downscaling it) because of the extra color information available in that signal.

My .02...... Cheers!

Any good FAQ's on Mounting a screen and Alligning a projector ?

Originally posted by gottahavapj
This is why I just keep dumping movies into my DVD player and pressing play. :)

I hooked up my old Panasonic RV80 (480i) DVD player to the H30 last night (hooked the component adapter onto my existing VGA cable). The RV80 is often considered one of the better interlaced players produced, but I really wasn't expecting much given the H30's Pixelworks de-interlacer. To my surprise, the image was quite good! Nice to see that even an old 480i player can produce a good image on this pj. Not giving up my HTPC though:)

Originally posted by Scarpad
Any good FAQ's on Mounting a screen and Alligning a projector ?
Not that I've run across... Perhaps a search in the builder or screen forums may produce something. If you find a good one- please post a link..

Cheers!

BTW When I test my new H30 last night I brought down a Heavy Duty UPS/Surge Protector that I use on My PC. I intend to use this or one like this when I mount the PJ. I guess I'll Run the PJ Cord to a Short Heavy uty extension and then plug in the Ext to the UPS. My concern is a Loss of power that would shut the PJ down without cooling I would think the UPS will operate the unit long enough to properly shut it Down. I'm also thinking about spikes from Air conditioners Etc.

Am I on the right Path Here? Do most do this?

Originally posted by kwalling
No problem with buzzing.
I had a problem when switching from dvd to satelite..... green bar.
Sent it in 2 day turn around working like a charm.

Excellent customer service from Will in Toronto , Canada.


Love this h30 baby.

Just have to figure out the color setting a bit better.
Seem to me when it left had a red push ....
When it came back it was a green push ?
I have dve but find it confusing (i use monster inc instead ).

KenW

If you see green for a particular signal it's en easy fix. Use the Advanced RGB-brightness & RGB-contrast. Start by adding a couple of click to the Red & Blue brightness. Also after doing this take a look at what deleting a click on Green brightness does also.

Do some similar movement with the RGB-contrast also. Most likely you'll only hv to move thing a small numbers like one of two click either way.

Ok with your DVE firn the pattern what shows four step from dark to dark gray to white. Remove color by using the rgb-brightness for the dark and the rgb-contrast for the light grays.
have fun
:)

Originally posted by RobRoy
I screwed up and created a thread with this question when I intended to ask this here. Anyway...

Thinking about getting the H30. If I were to also want to watch HDTV would I be better off with perhaps an Optoma 735 or other xga or perhaps a Benq6200 or does the H30 do a good enough job with 1080. Cant afford the H77.

Re HDTV, in the HT-mag shootout all the reviewers preferred the HDTV image on the H30 over the Epson and the BenQ."Even though H30 was the lowest resolution projector it produced the sharpest image."

Chalk this up to excellent scaling, colors & blacks.

Originally posted by Scarpad
As far as the mask goes I take it the lens cap does not fit while it's on, can dust become an issue?

I'm not sure how much more it can be dialed in until it burns in a little and I get a screen and get it mounted.. I'll have the mount I ordered coming Tommorrow and while it looks like it'll have plenty of adjustment leway I still am nervous of mounting the thing and then not being able to get it alligned with the screen and the offset correct.

1. Most use a UPS, safety first.
2. I was able to find a sweet spot for the lens mask by viewing an all white 100IRE pattern. I got no shadow effect. Don't worry about dust on the lens you'll get less by leaving the mask on. I never use the lens caps because you'll be re focusing all the time. Every few months you can clean the lens if you like. Much easier this way. Oh you'd be cleaning the lens even if you put the lens cap on and off all the time.

Enjoy the new toy.

I picked up this mount from Dell to mount the optoma. It says in the specs that it supports projectors that need the M3 screw type. Reading the optoma Manual it says you need to use a nount that used M3 and has screws with a Max length of 6mm. I got the mount today and all the M3 screws included are 12mm . Is it just a matter of getting different screws? Here's the link. Thanks Guys you're helping alot !


http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?sku=A0359432&c=us&l=en&cs=19&category_id=2999&page=external