Econo or bright lamp mode can be found in the System menu.

Re the 1600, s/b be the same as the others. When you hit the on screen menu or they call it Top Menu, you hit the on screen menu three times and in the last set of features you use the down arrow toggle and toggle till you see the mosquito and noise features, you also see progressive on/off and user setups.

Congrats on passing 7000 posts all! This thread is great. :)

I sincerely appreciate everyones efforts here for knowledge sharing. We have company this weekend and the gent just cannot get enough of watching even SDTV. He want's me to come to Minneapolis and get him set up some weekend. Another convert :)

Cheers!

True, keep the Smart III info coming. Hope they calibrate the system for the H30 also, it has enough followers so it would be worth it. Hint!

"I sincerely appreciate everyones efforts here for knowledge sharing. We have company this weekend and the gent just cannot get enough of watching even SDTV. He want's me to come to Minneapolis and get him set up some weekend. Another convert"

agreed, thank you all for the much needed info in starting out with the h30, so far still enjoying it!!

I know many prefer to use a 16.9 screen. But man I really really like this machine on a large 4.3 screen. For the love of Music DVD's and Classics. Plus I like HDTV and 16.9 DVDs in 16.9native.

Try it you'll like it. :)

Hello guys,

I am running a H30 with PAL dvd's and find the latest 880N from momitsu playing at 60 Hz 800x600. I need pal friendly 50Hz so I tried 800x600@50Hz and 75Hz. The first one is recognized 720 576 and scaled all wrong (no matter what tweaking I did) and the 75Hz seems over kill to the processing power of the H30 (blocks and lines every now and then).

Is the 800x600@50Hz supported by the H30? (anyone with htpc can check?)

I can not seem to find the right timings for the V880 1:1 mapping @ 50Hz, anyone ?

How about the signal slider in the H30's signal menu? We're always messing with 60hz here, you'll need a European owner to chime on. Or an Optoma UK tech specialist. His name is Justin and he in Taiwan this week.

Originally posted by vjren
Hello guys,

Is the 800x600@50Hz supported by the H30? (anyone with htpc can check?)


Im a UK H30 owner and obviously have a lot of PAL format DVDs, and I use my pc for DVD Playback. Im using an Nvidia GF4Ti4400 and whenever you set the refresh to 50hz from within the default drivers, the H30 changes its internal display mode to 720x576, which produces a horribly downscaled and artifact ridden rendition of the pcs 800x600 display. What I have found is that the H3o doesnt appear to be able to show 50hz in progressive; I had to use PowerStrip to generate an 800x600 interlaced resolution to get the H30 correctly display at 50hz. However, in this mode there are horrendous interlacing artifacts, the H30 doesnt seem to try and deinterlace an interlaced signal from the PC so whenever there is any movement its combing artifact city. Does anyone know of a way to force the H30 to deinterlace this interlaced signal from the PC?

My current solution for playing back PAL media on the H30 is just to use 75hz progressive output on the PC, which works great. You can also use a 100hz refresh, which contrary to the H30 specs (which only seems to list the max horizontal refresh supported as 85hz) works fine at 100hz with no problems whatsoever...

BAM.

Thanks, so it appears 50Hz is just not supported!

To me it seemes 75Hz seemed a bit too much for it to chew on but it runs smooth at pans @ 75Hz?

Most important to check is what happens with panning shots....

So next project is finding 1:1 800x600 timings @ 75Hz for the Momitsu V880

Originally posted by vjren
Thanks, so it appears 50Hz is just not supported!

To me it seemes 75Hz seemed a bit too much for it to chew on but it runs smooth at pans @ 75Hz?

Most important to check is what happens with panning shots....



I wouldnt say that 50Hz isnt supported... I only set up 800x600 interlaced with 50hz horizontal and 31khz vertical refresh rates. Perhaps with such high vertical refresh the H30 'thinks' its getting a progressive signal and thus doesnt apply any internal deinterlacing to it. I suspect this because I had a quick and dirty attempt at setting up 800x600 interlaced @ 50hz with a 15.725khz vertical refresh and there didnt appear to be any combing or interlaced artifacts but i couldnt be sure because the image was so poor due to (once again) the H30 incorrectly detecting the native resolution of the signal and choosing the wrong internal mode of 768x576. Im not sure if this incorrect display mode issue is caused by the H30 software or the PCs signalling, can anyone answer this? What mode does the H30 set internally for signals fed to it from standalone dvd players? Whenever I had a standalone DVD player, I only remember it looking far poorer than my PCs dvd output, but I cant recall now whether that may have been due to the H30 choosing the wrong display mode or not...

As for 75hz being smooth (especially in panning) there are no worries as far as PC DVD playback is concerned, it looks just like it should, as the refresh is a multiple of the medias native refresh. No jitter, no playback issues, everything is perfect, with both video and film encoded material.

I should rephrase, 800x600@50Hz is not supported on the H30, it will mistakenly assume you are offering a 720x576@50Hz source meaning it will not scale optimally and 1:1 is not possible

I tried it on the new momitsu with vga output and it detects 576@50Hz, it just didn't look good.

On the old V880 there is a 576P50Hz which works good, but it is dearly missed on the new one, the V880N. Now if we could only find out the proper timing...

This sounds like an excellent projector. I was just wondering if the deinterlcer / Scaler works with all input connections or just S-Video? Does it also work if you use a component to RGB / VGA connectoion or would you have to use a good progressive Scan DVD player for that? In other words If I used a Component output from the DVD player to an adaptoer to the VGA port will the scaler / deinterlacer still be used?

Thanks in advance,

Originally posted by vjren
I should rephrase, 800x600@50Hz is not supported on the H30, it will mistakenly assume you are offering a 720x576@50Hz source meaning it will not scale optimally and 1:1 is not possible


My powerstrip 800x600 interlaced resolution at 50Hz / 31kHz was 1:1 pixel mapped but the lack of deinterlacing by the projector in this mode (for whatever reason) may as well be taken as 'unsupported' due to the terrible combing artifacts.

Please forgive me for my lack of understanding of your situation, but are you just trying to get a 1:1 mapping on the projector for a standalone dvd player that you are plugging into it directly, or are you using a scaler or something? Surely the actual signal itself coming from the dvd player directly would be 768x576 pal or 720x480 ntsc, which the H30 would have to upscale into its native 800x600 dmd display. I dont believe there is any mode on the H30 which would let u choose a 1:1 pixel map mode whereby resolutions less than the 800x600 native would be centered in the dmd; I really wish it would have this soft of functionality though as 1:1 mapping looks infinitely superior to up scaling... :(

Originally posted by Rheal_Dubreuil
This sounds like an excellent projector. I was just wondering if the deinterlcer / Scaler works with all input connections or just S-Video? Does it also work if you use a component to RGB / VGA connectoion or would you have to use a good progressive Scan DVD player for that? In other words If I used a Component output from the DVD player to an adaptoer to the VGA port will the scaler / deinterlacer still be used?

Thanks in advance,

Deinterlacer scaler works for all the inputs and it works real nice. :)

Thanks Tom/Guitarman.

I hope people know what the H30 can really do.

You can do a full sized 4.3 picture with 800X600 pixels. In the same vain you can throw a 480P 16.9 image for widescreen movies and HDTV. Best of both worlds. If I were planning an H30 I'd use a 100" or 120" 4.3 screen, and I do. :)

If you do go straight 16.9 you can use it like the 4805, but you are canceling the 800X600 4.3 ability, plus the expanded 1.85/2.35/&HDTV.

Hi guys,

Long time no see. I've been absent from here for about 6 months, but I just had to stop in and say how much I'm loving my H30. I was one who got the H30 with the 50 hour bulb, but since Optoma's excellent tech support staff replaced my H30 for a new one with the better bulb, I've been in glorious movie heaven.

With the release of the Star Wars movies on DVD, I now know that HT is one of the best investments I've ever made. And the H30 was a real bargain.

Have you guys ever stopped over at the HT accessories forum? There's a lot of hot debate over which popcorn popper is the best. Too funny! :D

Since I've been away for awhile, I haven't kept up with the firmware upgrades. Can someone fill me in? I have the firmware that came out about a month after the H30 was available. The one that fixed the component "Green Push".

Originally posted by guitarman
I hope people know what the H30 can really do.

You can do a full sized 4.3 picture with 800X600 pixels. In the same vain you can throw a 480P 16.9 image for widescreen movies and HDTV. Best of both worlds. If I were planning an H30 I'd use a 100" or 120" 4.3 screen, and I do. :)

If you do go straight 16.9 you can use it like the 4805, but you are canceling the 800X600 4.3 ability, plus the expanded 1.85/2.35/&HDTV.

Too true, makes you wonder why on earth would anyone want a PJ that only did 854x480? the H30 can do the same size 16:9 image minus a a few pixels off the sides *as well as* a full 4:3 800x600 image.

Welcome back Johnny Bax! I remember you being one of the patient ones with my noob questions way back then. I appreciated that help. I'm at almost 800 hours on my unit since late April and still lovin it.

Firmware-
C03- (before my time) was the old one that couldn't open the entire 800x600 panel for 4:3 if I remember right. Tom or someone here from the beginning could better answer that.

C05- (what I have) gives you the entire 8X6 panel for 4:3. If you have a 4:3 screen the 16:9 image will be shown at the bottom of the screen no matter whether you are table or ceiling mounted. This creates a pretty fair amount of offset for ceiling mounting if you have low ceilings and a long throw. It works ideal for my setup though and I don't want to change.

C07- newest, out about 2 months? Same as above but shows the 16:9 image at the top of a 4:3 screen when ceiling mounted. This greatly reduces the offset for ceiling mounting but would give me a skinny little strip up by the ceiling for 2.35 movies. I would guess that for most the reduced offset would work better. This is the only firmware you can get now if you want an upgrade as it appears they won't let you choose C05. I don't recall what this does for table mounting.

Future- Tom could answer whether there may be another with digital shift as originally advertised.

Cheers!

Originally posted by GGB
Had a problem with my H30 last night and its still not working. When I switch it on it keeps attempting to start up and then failing. After about five attempts it eventually gives up and starts the fan and the "Lamp" light turns on orange followed by it shutting down after about a minute. Have tried leaving it off overnight and trying again this morning but still the same problem. I can actually hear a "static" electricty sound every few seconds when it is trying to start up.
Spoke to Optoma and they think its something to do with the fan. Could it possibly be the bulb ? Anyone else had this problem ?

Just to let you know that I returned my H30 to Optoma UK and I called today to be told that the bulb had indeed gone.
They are replacing it thankfully, even though I've had it for over four months and it should be back to me by tomorrow. Excellent service, but fingers crossed that this bulb lasts the full 3000 hrs.

Originally posted by GGB
Just to let you know that I returned my H30 to Optoma UK and I called today to be told that the bulb had indeed gone.
They are replacing it thankfully, even though I've had it for over four months and it should be back to me by tomorrow. Excellent service, but fingers crossed that this bulb lasts the full 3000 hrs.
That is great news!!! Good job Optoma..

I'm happy with C05 because I use a 4.3 screen and prefer the 16.9 images at the bottom of the screen closer to eye level. I'll skip C07 and wait for the next with digital shift so I can locate the widescreen image where ever.

Wing did say you could see a little better image quality with C07.

GGB, free bulb after 4months, count yourself lucky.

Originally posted by guitarman
I'll skip C07 and wait for the next with digital shift so I can locate the widescreen image where ever.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought I remember Jason saying that if you're using an HTPC you can put it anywhere you want in the panel, correct?

Cheers!

Got some newb questions, tried reading the thread and then realised it was over 300 pages anyways:

1. Is this still a native 16:9 projector or did the US firmware change that to use the full 4:3 resolution?

2. If it is by default 16:9 is it a smaller 16:9 picture by this I mean is it obvious this is a 4:3 projector with the 4:3 part taken away and with a smaller 16:9 image instead of a true large native 16:9 image? (very hard question to put into words correctly)

3. How bright is this compared to a Benq 6100 in video mode?

4. If I get this should I be getting a 4:3 screen or a 16:9 screen.

I have no place to go to really demo these things so any help is greatly appreciated.

He did say that but it doesn't make sense. How could you move the image around in the 4.3 chip if the projectors locks it in a certain place. I would think the projector would have to do it.

Hey- dumb question.

What do I need to do to get Optoma to do the firmware upgrade to C07? Having the 16:9 at the top of the screen would be really helpful.

Ryan

My H30 is connected to a Toshiba SD-520E DVD player which feeds RGB via a good quality SVGA cable.
Although I live in a region 2 (PAL) area I find that comparable region 1 (NTSC) DVD's can be bought for quite a bit cheaper.
Will R1 DVD's look as good as R2 on the H30?
While I realise R1 refreshes at 60htz and R2 at 50htz there has to be much more upscaling with R1 DVD's (720 x 480) as opposed to R2 (768 x 576) to acheive the H30 DMD resolution of 800 x 600.
Does this mean that there are likely to be more scaling artifacts with R1 discs?

Regards, MikeDes

Originally posted by RyanJNielson
Hey- dumb question.

What do I need to do to get Optoma to do the firmware upgrade to C07? Having the 16:9 at the top of the screen would be really helpful.

Ryan

Call Arun in the tech area at the Milpitas Headquaters to set up an RMA #. He can email you the form of fax it. It may be on their website also. You'll still need to call to get the number. Shipping you'll hv to cover to them they will pay the shipping back.

Originally posted by mikedes
My H30 is connected to a Toshiba SD-520E DVD player which feeds RGB via a good quality SVGA cable.
Although I live in a region 2 (PAL) area I find that comparable region 1 (NTSC) DVD's can be bought for quite a bit cheaper.
Will R1 DVD's look as good as R2 on the H30?
While I realise R1 refreshes at 60htz and R2 at 50htz there has to be much more upscaling with R1 DVD's (720 x 480) as opposed to R2 (768 x 576) to acheive the H30 DMD resolution of 800 x 600.
Does this mean that there are likely to be more scaling artifacts with R1 discs?

Regards, MikeDes

You'll still have to go by which looks best to you. Looks like both refresh rates are looking good. It is an excellent scaler on the H30.

I just picked up my "updated" Motorola HD digital cable box from CableOne. The one I had before had to be connected to the H30 via SVideo. Now I have the option of component and DVI if the H30 had it. I connected it up via component to the H30 and the picture is soft with muted colors. The 4 HD channels do look pretty darn good but I don't think they look even as good as my DVD player, definitely softer picture. I also plugged in the SVideo and it looked slightly better (sharper) than component does for SD channels. As well all of the regular cable channels show considerably more artifacts than the old box via SVideo. I just moved the component cable from my DVD changer so it's not a different- poorer cable issue. This kinda sucks..

I have a motorola STB and I find component cables look better than DVI. Also it's bext to set SD to 480i. I'd set it to 1080i for HD/480i for SD. Let the H30 scale the 480i. Much sharper

Not sure which model you got but I had to go into a service menu on mine a 5100. You hit the Power and menu button at the same time, on the box.

In there you can choose, 16.9, 4.3, 4.3 letterbox, 1080i, 720p, 480p, & Standard cable override 480i, 480p

Very interesting... I'm not where I can check the model now but I'll certainly look into that. Do you have some HD and some SD channels coming though the same box? I would guess it will scale everything to the one default setting then of 480i? I'm not sure if the signal on the 4 HD channels is 720P or 1080i. Thanks!

Everything through the Comast box, you have the option to have the standard channels in 480p or 480i. It's seperate from the HD setting.

Try the different HD resolutions, you'll probably find the 1080i looks best.

Originally posted by guitarman
He did say that but it doesn't make sense. How could you move the image around in the 4.3 chip if the projectors locks it in a certain place. I would think the projector would have to do it.

Software like Zoomplayer allow you to move the image anywhere you want within the desktop. So, if you have the H30 set for 4:3 and your desktop set to a 4:3 resolution (say 800x600), the 800x450 DVD image can easily be moved vertically to the top or bottom of the 600 pixel desktop. The H30 doesn't care cause it's still getting 800x600. Try it on your computer monitor with the ZP demo - you'll see what I mean.

Tom I have teh same cable box, as of yet I have'nt hooked it to the H30. I'm currently running my H30 from my HTPC Via VGA, so I'd have to get some sort of Switcher box and possibly a transcoder what would you suggest?

Did you find the service menu for the Comcast box? Comcast box just has DVI or component for HDTV. Sri I can't think of a switch box that will link up these two connections, VGA & component. Anybody else?

Hey maybe a Viewsonic, but I'm not to sure on how it effects the picture quality.

Originally posted by Scarpad
Tom I have teh same cable box, as of yet I have'nt hooked it to the H30. I'm currently running my H30 from my HTPC Via VGA, so I'd have to get some sort of Switcher box and possibly a transcoder what would you suggest?


--- All you do is get a VGA switch-box and connect the HTPC to one input using VGA then use the Optoma Supplied Component to VGA adapter on the second input of the VGA box and connect your HD box via Component [ then you run a VGA cable from the VGA switch-box Out to the H30 ] .
--- Works like a charm as long as you keep all the cables as short as possible ;) .

--------- Jason

Hey- welcome back Jason and you're exactly right as always :) I use what Jason details- a 2-1 VGA switchbox like this one http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=506&sku=03364 I run a 25' HD15 M/M cable up to the H30 from it. Before installing that I had all the stuff on a coffee table and switched numerous times back and forth between a single 3' component cable connecting DVD to H30 to that whole rats nest and noticed no diff in image quality. I'm guessing you could measure some with a scope or something but I sure couldn't see it.

Originally posted by mjolson
Software like Zoomplayer allow you to move the image anywhere you want within the desktop. So, if you have the H30 set for 4:3 and your desktop set to a 4:3 resolution (say 800x600), the 800x450 DVD image can easily be moved vertically to the top or bottom of the 600 pixel desktop. The H30 doesn't care cause it's still getting 800x600. Try it on your computer monitor with the ZP demo - you'll see what I mean. Ya I thought it was something like that. I need to get busy building a new HTPC this winter and play around with some of that.

Thanks!

Originally posted by guitarman
Everything through the Comast box, you have the option to have the standard channels in 480p or 480i. It's seperate from the HD setting.

Try the different HD resolutions, you'll probably find the 1080i looks best.
OK- after an evening of playing around I'm still not happy with the softer SD picture out of the new Motorola box. Power and menu at the same time didn't get me anywhere, I'll need to search on the model number and try to find service menu stuff.

I will say however that I watched some of the Louisville- Miami football game on ESPN HD last night, that was a jaw dropper. I take back what I said about it wasn't looking any better than my DVD player, WOW. It was coming up (if I remember) 1920x1080 so it was feeding 1080i to the H30. Can't wait for Sunday night- go Vikes!!! :)

Thanks Tom!

Does this projector come with a Component to VGA adaptor or do you have to buy one and if you did which one and where did you buy it? Or how do you guys have it connected. Any body use it with the LG / Zenith up converting (720p / 1080i) DVD player?

Also when you Ceiling mount the projector for about a 100" 4:3 screen is the projector about the same hight as the top of the screen?

Thanks again.

Rheal.

Sometimes it takes me 10 times to final open up the service menu. But right check procedure for you model. Mine is the first series. It could be that the 480i option is right there in the user setup menu.

And the difference is night and day in sharpness. 480p was not like OTA 480p :)

Originally posted by Rheal_Dubreuil
Does this projector come with a Component to VGA adaptor?


It sure does. Over here in the UK we also get an RGB Scart to VGA adapter, which is -extremely- useful as many devices over here use the Scart standard.

The offset using a 4.3 screen is typical about 8 to 12 inches, haven't measured it in a while. Anybody

I did find that it is a Moto 5100/1003. A quick search led me to the user manual here- http://broadband.motorola.com/hdtv/02UsefulGuide.pdf It says to have your display device on but the cable box off and press the menu button. That took me right into the menu although I wouldn't call it a service menu I don't think. You did have the option there to change your signal for YPbPr and for 4:3 override. It was set to 480i for 4:3 so I tried that and 480p. Both settings still result in a very soft- slightly defocused looking picture with a lot of artifacts during fast motion and especially when you change channels it does this freeze/delay ugly looking thing. I gotta tell ya- the old Moto DCT2224 that I had before for SD digital cable produced a MUCH nicer picture. I always wondered why everyone complained so much about SD blown up big cause I thought mine looked great for the most part. Now I know what they were talking about after seeing this box. I'm going at lunch to swap it out and hope I just got a bad one.

As always- thanks for your help!

Originally posted by guitarman
The offset using a 4.3 screen is typical about 8 to 12 inches, haven't measured it in a while. Anybody
My offset to the top of a 4:3 screen is only about 6" but that is for an 80" (diagonal) screen from about 10' throw distance. I would guess it's in that range for 100"

Cheers!

Originally posted by crumbaker
Got some newb questions, tried reading the thread and then realised it was over 300 pages anyways:

1. Is this still a native 16:9 projector or did the US firmware change that to use the full 4:3 resolution?

It's still a 4:3 native. The earlier firmware change opened up the full 4:3 chip.

2. If it is by default 16:9 is it a smaller 16:9 picture by this I mean is it obvious this is a 4:3 projector with the 4:3 part taken away and with a smaller 16:9 image instead of a true large native 16:9 image? (very hard question to put into words correctly)

The 16:9 image uses either 800 X 450 (16:9 mode) or 800 X 480 (16:9 Native mode) of the full 800 X 600 (4:3 image).

3. How bright is this compared to a Benq 6100 in video mode?

From memory when I had them both, they were about the same. The 6100 has a white sebment in its color wheel, so it has a higher lumen rating based on its presentation mode.

4. If I get this should I be getting a 4:3 screen or a 16:9 screen.

I have no place to go to really demo these things so any help is greatly appreciated.

That's a personal preference based on your viewing habits. If you watch little or no 4:3, seeing the screen above the 16:9 image all the time may bother you. However, if you do watch 4:3 material regularly, a 4:3 screen will enable use of the full chip and give you a larger 4:3 image.

Originally posted by guitarman
The offset using a 4.3 screen is typical about 8 to 12 inches, haven't measured it in a while. Anybody

It varies based on screen size and throw distance, but I'd say that's pretty much the full range of offset. With the new firmware, it would be the same for a 16:9 screen as well.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
I did find that it is a Moto 5100/1003. A quick search led me to the user manual here- http://broadband.motorola.com/hdtv/02UsefulGuide.pdf It says to have your display device on but the cable box off and press the menu button. That took me right into the menu although I wouldn't call it a service menu I don't think. You did have the option there to change your signal for YPbPr and for 4:3 override. It was set to 480i for 4:3 so I tried that and 480p. Both settings still result in a very soft- slightly defocused looking picture with a lot of artifacts during fast motion and especially when you change channels it does this freeze/delay ugly looking thing. I gotta tell ya- the old Moto DCT2224 that I had before for SD digital cable produced a MUCH nicer picture. I always wondered why everyone complained so much about SD blown up big cause I thought mine looked great for the most part. Now I know what they were talking about after seeing this box. I'm going at lunch to swap it out and hope I just got a bad one.

As always- thanks for your help!

It should look very good and plenty sharp. Actually it compares well to OTA on my system. Maybe the new box will help.

Ok I took a look at the link, that's the disply you need. and setup just like in the picture.
1080i
4.3 override 480i

You should see a huge difference testing 480i and 480p. 480p being real soft.

Hey guys forgot to mention. Yesterday I asked about when the digital shift firmware might come. They said it won't change of plans, there's new things coming out in the next few weeks and Optoma will hv to concentrate on that.

I'll have to keep my H30 at C05, works best for me.

Swapped out the Moto 5100 for a new one- no joy. I just don't get how an older Moto 2224 connected via SVideo can produce a clearly superior image to a newer Moto 5100 connected via component. I even tried the 5100 via SVideo, still no good. I haven't directly compared yet but I honestly think that cable running through my VCR and connected to the H30 via friggin composite shows a sharper picture. Also- there's not much difference via component when I toggle the 5100 between 480i & p. 480i looks slightly better/sharper.

I'll enjoy a weekend of ESPN HD and then back it goes next week. Go Vikes! :)

Thanks for your help Tom...

My H30 is finally back in service. They supposedly replaced its "engine," upgraded the firmware, and replaced the bulb. The bulb only cost me the low, low price of $399, quite a bargain for a projector with about 20 hours on it, despite also being about five months old. Oh well.

When I turned it on tonight, the Optoma warmup logo was upside down, and when the warmup completed, the "wallpaper" image from my DVD player was upside down, and so was the menu on my receiver when I tried that. Also, the image was all kinda washed in grey or something. I finally shut down the projector, let it cool, and restarted it. In the interim, I checked some cables, but nothing appeared loose. It then behaved fine and we watched a movie. Any thoughts on what caused this, or was it likely something loose?

Todd

The upside down thing sounds strange since it was right side up on the second startup. At first I figured it was just the reset flipping the ceiling, table setup options. Maybe the connection at the projector, do you use the component adapter?

Check your firmware, C07 will have a different offset. Pictures supposed to look a little better also. How's it going?

"They supposedly replaced its "engine," upgraded the firmware, and replaced the bulb"

Here's a ? you could ask around about. Can a bad light engine effect the bulb to cause premature failure?

Originally posted by guitarman
Yesterday I asked about when the digital shift firmware might come. They said it won't
I'll have to keep my H30 at C05, works best for me.

Doesn't this mean you can never send the unit in for warranty service?

I have the green bar problem, which in my case doesn't involve switching inputs, but just feeding an interlaced signal (from my cheapo region-free DivX player, namely a Philips 642) into the componenet inputs. So, it really has to go back. I guess this means I'm stuck with a sore craned neck if I mount the H30 on the ceiling. :(

~ Kiran <entropy@io.com>

Originally posted by guitarman
The upside down thing sounds strange since it was right side up on the second startup. At first I figured it was just the reset flipping the ceiling, table setup options. Maybe the connection at the projector, do you use the component adapter?

Check your firmware, C07 will have a different offset. Pictures supposed to look a little better also. How's it going?

"They supposedly replaced its "engine," upgraded the firmware, and replaced the bulb"

Here's a ? you could ask around about. Can a bad light engine effect the bulb to cause premature failure?

Yes, I primarily use a component signal. When I turned it on, the projector should have warmed up and then displayed the "wallpaper" from the empty DVD player, which was set to progressive at the time. (There is a switch on the back of the DVD player to choose progressive or interlaced; sometimes I switch back to interlaced because when in progressive, my receiver won't superimpose its menus over the DVD image, which is annoying if I'm doing something to the sound setup in Avia or DV Essentials.)

On a couple of calls with Optoma, they claimed the stuff they replaced didn't affect the bulb, but I think that's a load of crap.

I seem to have better placement on the wall than before the firmware upgrade. I'm using almost no keystone.

I can barely discern the portion of the DLP chip that is not in use during play, but there is also a letterbox portion during movies that has a mild red tint to what should otherwise be black. This is especially noticable during blackout moments between scenes, or behind credits, etc.

I gotta figure out how to de-red those blacks to get the rich ones people rave about. So, you have unprojected wall, wall where DLP is inactive, letterbox black portion with reddish tint, and then main image. I guess I need to research that on this forum.

Todd

Originally posted by entropy
Doesn't this mean you can never send the unit in for warranty service?

I have the green bar problem, which in my case doesn't involve switching inputs, but just feeding an interlaced signal (from my cheapo region-free DivX player, namely a Philips 642) into the componenet inputs. So, it really has to go back. I guess this means I'm stuck with a sore craned neck if I mount the H30 on the ceiling. :(

~ Kiran <entropy@io.com>

Yes as it is now I wouldn't want to ever send it in for repair. I'm going to have to push a little more for the digital shift. They're getting side tracked with the up and coming projectors.

Todd,
Don't ever have signals on as you're warming up the projector. Wait until it gets to the searching for signal part. This is in the manual.

The offset change your seeing is the upgrade, 16.9 image is now shifted to the top of the 4.3 chip, instead of the bottom. Maybe 8 or 10"s less offset and supposedly the angle the light shoots through the lens will produce a better picture.

I put some tuning techniques up in the opening post. Take a look at some grayscale patterns and make sure there's no color tint's in the grays, use your Advanced RGB adjustments. More up in the first post.

PS, I wouldn't give up on the link up of the electronics shorting out the bulb. How do you know as a basic user, they both coincided at the same time so what else would you or a judge conclude. ;) You really have to go up the ladder because the guys on the line can't make money decisions, they go by their book. Hell maybe even the co Attorney.
A few pages back they gave a cat in Europe a freebee, he was at 5months. You're being too nice buddy.

Ah, then again why would the techs make up stuff it's not their money?

So Optoma has sent me a replacement and I have dust blobs. GRRRRRRRRRRRR..... If your gonna spend a month with my projector please don't give me a dusty ass projector. I don't want to send it back just to clean some blobs. The bulb also failed to strike a couple of times last night t. It better not break.

I forget your problem? Did they send a new projector? Was it a buzzer deal.

Guitarman, any news on the Optoma H31, there is some news in Singapore that there would be a new H31 model, true 16:9 with Darkchip2.....rumour or true?

Originally posted by guitarman
Yesterday I asked about when the digital shift firmware might come. They said it won't change of plans, there's new things coming out in the next few weeks and Optoma will hv to concentrate on that.


I must say I am very disappointed, if that is the case. I currently have c05 and have a fixed mount for both the projector and the screen. Even if I could move them around, the current offset works way better for me. I am now extremely affraid of any faults in the projector, which would require me to send it in for repair (and there have been quite a few reports of the H30 not starting up in the Finnish forums).

Having the offset change so dramatically during a warranty repair is almost like Optoma sending me a completely different type of projector, which I might not be able to setup at all in my HT room. So, if I do have to send it in for any reason, I surely will be telling Optoma, how I feel about this :)

Btw. So far I am a very happy customer, since I have a bit over 100 hrs on the H30 and I am still loving the picture.

I'll have to put in a pitch again for the digi shift. Pretty sure it's our guy that had the idea but it's Taiwan that has to make up the change. They're busy now the the Euro H77 the upcoming H57.

If a H31 comes out it will be similar to the 4805, no more 4.3 :(
But I guess all you 16.9 maniacs will be happy. ;) I don't wanna watch Hell Freezes over boxed in, in a tiny screen size, I want to watch it covering my entire back wall. :)

I think the digital shift feature would be nice but I can understand them wanting to focus their efforts on new products coming out. Sit still in this business and you'll hear a big flushing sound. :)

What I don't understand is that it would require no effort on their part to make C05 available again when a customer specifically requests it. If I had to go to C07 for some reason- I would never feel the same about the projector and Optoma again. I would have a bitter taste in my mouth as I sat there watching a 2.35 movie with the bottom of the image about 2' above eye level. My screen and PJ mounting positions are fixed.

My thoughts.... Cheers!

Originally posted by gottahavapj
If I had to go to C07 for some reason- I would never feel the same about the projector and Optoma again. I would have a bitter taste in my mouth as I sat there watching a 2.35 movie with the bottom of the image about 2' above eye level. My screen and PJ mounting positions are fixed.

My thoughts.... Cheers!

I agree. Even with c05 I have to wall mount due to a high ceiling. c07 would be totally unacceptable. It seems to me that if you're going to use either the bottom or top of the chip for the 16:9 image, you need to account for the different offsets for mounting by allowing it to be shifted between those two positions by the user.

I don't wanna watch Hell Freezes over boxed in, in a tiny screen size, I want to watch it covering my entire back wall.

Me too, but my back wall's 9 feet high and 16 feet long. ;)

Now you're talking native 4.3 :)

It's up to Optoma Taiwan, I think Wing wants to keep his job. Don't know how hard he can push.

Originally posted by guitarman
I forget your problem? Did they send a new projector? Was it a buzzer deal.

My bulb failed to strike and I had to send it in. I had about 300 hours on it, and they finally replaced the bulb, but I still had to pay for shipping. It took them 1 month to ship my projector back, and then when I finally got it back there are dust blobs in it. I am thinking now, that it has some other issues since it has failed to strike already. Maybe a power supply problem? I haven't even unplugged it like everyone here says to do.

Hi Guys

I'm thinking of buying a Philips DVP 630 DVD player to replace my decrepid Cyberhome.

My H30 is currently connected using the SCART>VGA adapter along with a 15m VGA cable.

I've just read the tech specs on the Philips DVP 630 and it states that progressive Scan is only available via the component out connections and not the SCART connection.

It's a silly question I know (H30 box and manual is burried in the loft) but is there an adapter to connect a VGA cable to the component outputs of the player? - Hate the thoguht of having to re-run component cables through the room.
Many thanks

Jgrillo, I asked about the ship policy. Anyone past 30days has to pay to ship the PJ to them.

You were still under 90day bulb period?

Man 'O man Tom, my wife and I watched School of Rock on my buddies H30 friday night - he has it throwing a giant 116" x 65" picture on a wall - it looks fabulous! No screen even - it's crazy big!!

The little guy is brite!

Originally posted by simong
It's a silly question I know (H30 box and manual is burried in the loft) but is there an adapter to connect a VGA cable to the component outputs of the player? - Hate the thoguht of having to re-run component cables through the room.
Many thanks
There's a DB15-component adapter that comes in the box on the U.S. models, do you not have that? It would allow you to use a short component cable from DVD to the adapter and then (I think) VGA M-M up to the projector from there.

Cheers!

Originally posted by gottahavapj
There's a DB15-component adapter that comes in the box on the U.S. models, do you not have that? It would allow you to use a short component cable from DVD to the adapter and then (I think) VGA M-M up to the projector from there.

Cheers!

Hi :)
Yes I do have the component adapter, but my VGA cable is male-to-male as is the 15-pin plug on the adapter......maybe I can put a mail-female converter in line !?

Originally posted by vjren
Hello guys,

I am running a H30 with PAL dvd's and find the latest 880N from momitsu playing at 60 Hz 800x600. I need pal friendly 50Hz so I tried 800x600@50Hz and 75Hz. The first one is recognized 720 576 and scaled all wrong (no matter what tweaking I did) and the 75Hz seems over kill to the processing power of the H30 (blocks and lines every now and then).

Is the 800x600@50Hz supported by the H30? (anyone with htpc can check?)

I can not seem to find the right timings for the V880 1:1 mapping @ 50Hz, anyone ?

Hello again. Well, I finally got a powerstrip timing of 50.046Hz at 800x600 with 1:1 pixel mapping working on the H30 from my pc. Here is the powerstrip timing:800,56,128,72,600,25,16,32,35567,2048

The above display timing seems perfect for general use, but upon more critical viewing. ie. pal dvds, I find that the display is nowhere near as smooth as it should be. In fact, when the H30 normally does the 50hz signal detection and scales down to 720x576, its output is perfectly smooth for pal material. I find this confusing if the horizontal refresh in both cases is the same (50hz), so why would there be problems with the 1:1 mapping and not the internally downscaled mode?

This leads me to the following question: what is the H30s "native" refresh rate? Yes, I realise it is classed as a "multisync" display device, but there is a very interesting thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=318096) going on with regards to a very useful new tool called JudderTest which helps you discover what frequencies your projector is smoothest with. I have found that my H30 is only really perfectly smooth at 60Hz, and at the internally downscaled 720x576 when in 50hz. I suspect that the H30 converts any other signal frequencies (as mentioned in the above thread), as juddertest certainly shows "judder" at these refreshes, not to mention bad tearing (even with vsync enabled in my display drivers).

Could any other H30 owners have a go with this juddertest and see what results they come up with? I would be interested to see if there is any difference between the US and UK H30s handling of certain refresh rates...

Originally posted by simong
Hi :)
Yes I do have the component adapter, but my VGA cable is male-to-male as is the 15-pin plug on the adapter......maybe I can put a mail-female converter in line !?
Aahhhh.. I wasn't able to verify the gender of that adapter when I wrote that. I believe you would need a DB15 female-female adapter to attach to one end of your male-male cable and the other end to the male DB15 port on the VGA-component adapter. This does bring another adapter and opportunity for signal loss into the equation but it would definitely be cheaper than replacing your 15M VGA cable. Is there a possibility that you may have another device to connect to the H30 via VGA like a PC or something?

Cheers!

I asked Wing today if he could get the ok to make C05 or C07 available since there won't be a digital shift firmware coming. He thinks he can oblige and will lmk

I told him I was one of the users that if I had to send the PJ in for repair would want C05 and there are others. I need the 16.9 image at the bottom because I use a 4.3 screen. Things are looking good, this will solve any future problems.

I had the H30 running some tests this morning. Man it's a great projector. This little guy is a black detail mega projector. I beefed up the color intensity with the Hoya FLD and dropped the gamma to the bottom at 1. Still it's so bright and open that it remained the Black Detail killer. But now with deeper blacks and even richer colors.
Master Commander, Panic Room, U-571, No problemo!
Good projector.

Originally posted by guitarman
I asked Wing today if he could get the ok to make C05 or C07 available since there won't be a digital shift firmware coming. He thinks he can oblige and will lmk
I look forward to that answer although I hope I never have to use it. :) Thanks for checking...

Cheers!

Howdee All!

Hey I got my H30 back up finally.
Bout time for me to get in touch with Mike on that Harmony Remote :)

Anyhow, I got married last week so had some time during the honeymoon to get everything set back up. My wife was more eager than I was since Aladdin was out and she wanted to watch it on the big screen. Glad to see this forum is still buzzing. Everyone take care.

I should add that I would want to keep the c05 as well. Originally thought I wanted the c07 top of the screen option, but after seeing how the screen works, that wouldn't do me anygood, and I'd rather have the screen closer to eye level.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Aahhhh.. I wasn't able to verify the gender of that adapter when I wrote that. I believe you would need a DB15 female-female adapter to attach to one end of your male-male cable and the other end to the male DB15 port on the VGA-component adapter. This does bring another adapter and opportunity for signal loss into the equation but it would definitely be cheaper than replacing your 15M VGA cable. Is there a possibility that you may have another device to connect to the H30 via VGA like a PC or something?

Cheers!

Thanks for the tip - I'll see if I can get an adapter to convert the 15-pin VGA connector :)

I have a PC but it's in a diff part of the house.

Bit of a pain that I cant get progressive scan out of the SCART connection but I guess this is normal.

Does anyone have any experience of the Philips DVD630 with the H30 using PS?
I've read conflicting reviews of it (Especially as far as Divx quality goes) but I've a chance of getting the DVD630 at £30 from a local Sainbury store :) - They reduced it from £89 to £45 to clear but only had the display item left so agreed to knock a further 33% off the price :D - Only prob is that when I went to collect it tonight they couldn't find the remote, manual or cables - DOHH !! :rolleyes:

Does PS really make a big diff with the H30? - I've been impressed with the picture from my old Cyberhome player but did notice that red's seem to have an odd pixelated/grid effect on them and I've heard that using PS elimiates this - Any ideas?
Cheers
:)

Originally posted by hikarate
Howdee All!

Hey I got my H30 back up finally.
Bout time for me to get in touch with Mike on that Harmony Remote :)

Anyhow, I got married last week so had some time during the honeymoon to get everything set back up. My wife was more eager than I was since Aladdin was out and she wanted to watch it on the big screen. Glad to see this forum is still buzzing. Everyone take care.

I should add that I would want to keep the c05 as well. Originally thought I wanted the c07 top of the screen option, but after seeing how the screen works, that wouldn't do me anygood, and I'd rather have the screen closer to eye level.
Well I'll be Mr. Karate... Welcome to marriage land. You were smart in getting at least one of your toys before it's "our" money. hehehe :)

Congrats!

Simong, Progressive scan player will be better. Hard part is finding the perfect player with the Panasonic Mpeg chip and the Faroudja deinterlacer. Pany RP82, XP50, XP30, Denon 1600. We need some new blood with this type quality.

I've been looking a the Kenwood 5900, it's has the goods but it's like $600. It does store 400dvds though. :)

Hey everyone. I have been away enjoying my H30 that has been trouble free since Feb. Well, now I have the following problems:

High pitched whine after about 10 minutes of operation. Not super loud, but noticeable.
Overheat alarm and shutdown after 10 minutes or so.
Greenbar on occasion
Slight flickering (cyclic dimming) under composite/Svideo.

So, I am sending it back for repair at 730 hours. Arun is a great guy and helping me out.

What I need to know is if I should go with the C07 or C05 firmware. Arun confirms that I can get it flashed either way. My Carada screen is 92" diag 16:9 and it sits 16.25 inches from the ceiling (the screen itself, not the surround). My projector has about a 6-8 degree tilt up and I am using +9 keystone to fit the image. It works fine and looks great.

If I get the C07 firmware, it moves the image to the top of the chip (I only watch DVD's or the kids play Playstation II on it). The current drop is about 22" or so now and that will change to 12" or so. If I level the projector and have zero keystone, how much height is lost? How close am I to the correct distance?

Can I just level the projector now, measure the overspill at the top to the top of the screen and just buy the proper extension for my PerfectMount?

Or do I just request the C05 and stick with what I have? I like the idea of a better picture and no keystone. What do you guys think?

I have one of the first H30's. I bought mine around message 20 in this thread (hows that for judging a timeframe!) It has been in use nearly everyday and has worked great up til the last few weeks. C03 is my firmware. Very happy with the unit. I even got used to the RBE. As I watched it more and more, the problem pretty much went away. :)

Hehe, I might have answered my own question. After leveling the projector to 0 keystone, the actual drop was more like 14 inches or so. That means the overspill at the top is about 3 inches down from the edge of the screen. So even with the image all the way at the top with the new firmware, I will still need to tilt the projector up about 1 degree or so and have either 1 or 2 positive keystone. Do my findings make sense to you guys?

Also, how will that affect the 4:3 image? I don't watch much 4:3, but will it overspill in huge amounts and really look strange after the upgrade?

Mike

Hello Tom,

You mean that there will be no new firmware (C09 with digital lens shift) or that its exit is delayed?

Originally posted by Shock96
Also, how will that affect the 4:3 image? I don't watch much 4:3, but will it overspill in huge amounts and really look strange after the upgrade?

Mike
Hey good story Mike, except the part about having to go in for repair :( If you're lining everything up for a 16:9 screen- won't the 4:3 image just fit in the middle 2/3 of it with black pillars on each side? I would guess that the height or vertical positioning of the image wouldn't change or overscan when you use the 4:3 (not native) mode.

Let us know how it works out!

Cheers!

There will be no digital shift firmware.

Most users that setup for a 16.9 will benefit from the C07 firmware with the lower offset.

4.3 screen users may not like it becuse the 16.9 image will start at the top of the screen near the ceiling,

C05 has light spill above, C07 has light below, another thing to consider altough the light spill is pretty hard to see over past projectors.

Is there a good DVD player for a relatively low price that you guys recommend for this DVD player? Would I use 480i or 480P from this player.

Also I am guessing that Component video is the choice over S-Video right? (I realize that S-Video is only interlaced but component interlaces is still better right?)

Thanks again,

Good thought what are the best cheap DVD players these days? I had good luck with JVC players and Panasonics. Maybe you can find a left over Phillips Q50 for $100 with a google search. See what's cookin in the DVD player forum.

You'll want to use it in progressive with component video for the best picture quality.

There are still some refurb Q50s at overstock.com. I might pick one up just because it can easily be made region free, where my RP82 cannot.

I'm using the Q50 with my HD-tube tv. It has a rare hiccup, but it's real rare. So the quality is worth it. The Q50 has the sharpest picture of all the players I've tried. It was so sharp that when I used it with the H30 I lowered the DCDI-sharpness setting. On the tube tv the JVC looked good till I tried the Q50, it made the JVC seem soft. Good player for the price now.

Unfortunately, Overstock.com is out of those players. I was ready to buy too. Oh well.

That was quick. They lasted less than 5 hours. You can still get a new Q50 for a decent price though.

I found a deal on a new Denon 1600 that was sitting in the back room of a local AV shop. Schweeeet!

I will be getting my RP91 back from Panasonic with new optics and spindle motor. Gonna have to sell that bad dog.

Mike

So I just bought a 4-port KVM switch for my PC/gamecube/dvd player(IOGEAR MINIVIEW III GCS1714) and I can't get it to work properly.

When I plug my DVD player (Zenith DVB318) into the KVM,
(DVD player Component -to- Optoma VGA adapter -to- KVM input, Then KVM Out: VGA -to- H30) the image dosn't sync up. The sync Display on the H30 says something like "Analog RGB 640x480 70hz" and the screen is covered with Green Buzzing Lines. If I use all the same cables, but Bypass the KVM, everything works great.

I know that other people have used Iogear KVMs with projectors and DVD players, so I'm a bit confused as to why this one doesn't work.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

...and yes this KVM does have an A/C adapter

Help - It's gone green!

I connected my Philips DVP60 to my H30 as follows:

Philips DVP630 Progressive Scan player
V
High Quality 1.5m Component cables
V
RGB-VGA Adapter
V
Female/Female VGA Adapter (To allow me to join male-mail VGA connections together)
V
High Quality 10m VGA Cable
V
H30

I set the player to progressive and up popped the image on the H30.

I immediately noticed that the blue Philips splash screen had a nasty green tinge to it and this was confirmed when I tried playing a letterbox DVD as the once black bars (That could hardly be noticed) we now a dark green :(

I also noticed that while the image was rock steady with zero flickering there did seem to be a loss of detail (Ringing?).
I know I really shouldnt have so many connections between the DVD and H30 but I honestly dont think this is the prob - Certainly shouldn't cause the black to go dark green.

Any help much appreciated as I was expecting the image quality to improve but as it stands it much, much worse.
Many thanks

Originally posted by animatty
So I just bought a 4-port KVM switch for my PC/gamecube/dvd player(IOGEAR MINIVIEW III GCS1714) and I can't get it to work properly.

When I plug my DVD player (Zenith DVB318) into the KVM,
(DVD player Component -to- Optoma VGA adapter -to- KVM input, Then KVM Out: VGA -to- H30) the image dosn't sync up. The sync Display on the H30 says something like "Analog RGB 640x480 70hz" and the screen is covered with Green Buzzing Lines. If I use all the same cables, but Bypass the KVM, everything works great.

I know that other people have used Iogear KVMs with projectors and DVD players, so I'm a bit confused as to why this one doesn't work.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Does it work for any of the inputs or just not for the Zenith? 70Hz sure doesn't sound right, does it?

Ouch Simon! Sorry, and I was the one suggesting that config for you. FWIW- my setup is the same except instead of the DB15 F-F adapter mating the two VGA cables I have a 2 port rotary VGA switch so that the DVD player and my PC can share the one VGA cable up to the H30. I know Jason has used that config too so we know it can work.

Can you try to get a couple of things out of the loop? Is it possible to put the Optoma component-VGA adapter right on the H30 and then run the component cable to the DVP60? If the H30 is ceiling mounted you may need to place the DVD player on a ladder or something to reach. This way you would at least be taking the F-F adapter and the 10M VGA cable out of the equation.

Sincerely- your very limited skill, troubleshooting wizard. :)

Quick update on my problem - if I disable Progressive Scan on the DVD player the image is perfect, but if I switch back to PS the image has a green tint and is definately blury with ringing.

I'm assuming that as component out without PS produces a perfect image that the cables are ok (Inspite of the number of connections) and assuming that the DVD player itself is OK does anyone know why using PS with the H£ would cause this prob?

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Ouch Simon! Sorry, and I was the one suggesting that config for you. FWIW- my setup is the same except instead of the DB15 F-F adapter mating the two VGA cables I have a 2 port rotary VGA switch so that the DVD player and my PC can share the one VGA cable up to the H30. I know Jason has used that config too so we know it can work.

Can you try to get a couple of things out of the loop? Is it possible to put the Optoma component-VGA adapter right on the H30 and then run the component cable to the DVP60? If the H30 is ceiling mounted you may need to place the DVD player on a ladder or something to reach. This way you would at least be taking the F-F adapter and the 10M VGA cable out of the equation.

Sincerely- your very limited skill, troubleshooting wizard. :)

Hi :)

No probs - See my previous post.
The Component cable is only 1.5m long and the H30 is ceiling mounted.
I think my previous post has ruled out the cables as it only seems to be a prob when I use PS !?

Simon- do you have another display device that accepts component or VGA input that you could test the DVD player on in PS mode? If it sent green to that it would probably be the fault of the DVD player. Thoughts?

Unfortunately I dont have another TV/Screen I can connect it to :/

Would a computer monitor work? I think you said at one time you had a PC in another part of the house..

Would that work?
I have a screen so I can certainly try this - Wont cause any damage to the screen I assume !?

I can't imagine it would cause damage as most all monitors are multisynch. I've never tried it however. Anyone? Anyone? :)

No , you cannot connect a Component signal to a VGA PC monitor with a Component to VGA cable [ it does not work ] .

--- I am not familiar with the model DVD player simong but my bet is that it is indeed something in the player itself that is conflicting with the H30 [ when in Progressive mode ] .

--- Is that a PAL dvd player ?

--- It sounds just like a SOG (Sync On Green) issue but still difficult to diagnose for certain .

--- Keep the info coming and I will try and narrow it down ;) .

---------- Jason

Thanks Guys

Jason - yes it a Pal player - Full info can be found here:
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/catalog.jsp?fhquery=fh_secondid%3Ddvp630_05_gb_consumer%26fh _location%3D%2F%2Fconsumer%2Fen_GB%2Fcategories%3Ccatalog_gb _consumer%2Fcategories%3Chome_audio_video_gr_gb_consumer%2Fc ategories%3Cdvd_players_recorders_ca_gb_consumer%26&productId=DVP630_05_GB_CONSUMER&activeCategory=HOME_AUDIO_VIDEO_GR_GB_CONSUMER&fredhopperpage=detail.jsp&language=en&country=GB&catalogType=CONSUMER&proxybuster=HWPVGPUOV2IAFJ0RMRESHQFHKFSEKI5P

Yikes - thats a long URL!

Obe thing that may be relevant is that when I initially switch the player to Progressive Scan I end up with 2 x images shown side by side on the H30 - This changes to one when leaving the players system menu.
It does seem like something conflicting but I cant image what - there's no other options in the DVD's menu other than PS on/off and I cant see anything in the H30 menu's that relates to settings for PS.
Thanks for you help

See? He's better at this than me. :) Thanks Jason!

Wouldn't it still make the most sense to try another display device though? at least then you could be sure the problem lies with the DVD player. Simon- do you know anyone with a newer TV with component in that you could either bring the DVD player to or the TV to you?

Something else ......

When DVD set to non-PS the H30 detects the signal as Component YBR.
When DVD set to PS the H30 loses sync and then detects signal as Analogue YBR - I'm sure this is the prob.

Originally posted by simong
Something else ......

When DVD set to non-PS the H30 detects the signal as Component YBR.
When DVD set to PS the H30 loses sync and then detects signal as Analogue YBR - I'm sure this is the prob.


--- Yep , now you are on to it ;) .

--- Check in the DVD player menus for a Video Output mode and see if it can switch Component modes . And be sure you try the Re-Sync on the H30 [ if you have not already tried it ] .

---------- Jason

ok....in order to rule out everything other than the PJ and DVD player I sat the player on a ladder and connected using only the 1.5m component cable using the Optoma supplied adapter - Same prob.
At least I know that mu cobled together cabling (gender changer etc) aren't causing the problem.

I've re-checked the DVD menu and the only other setting relating to video out is a choise of RGB, Comp or Ybr - Tha manual says it must be set to Ybr when using PS which is how it's configured.

It's possible that the Philips DVP630 just isn;t compatible with the H30 but I find that hard to believe.
I'm out of ideas :(

simong, try tweaking the Advanced RGB color adjusments in the Image menu. Use some of the info I posted in the first post of this thread. Maybe you're seeing progressive green push that some first series units had.

How old and what firmware is the PJ? This is the first time you used a progressive player I guess?

If it's a recent model or recent firmware there's some added features under User 1, something like YUU, RGB. You could try these.

Originally posted by guitarman
simong, try tweaking the Advanced RGB color adjusments in the Image menu. Use some of the info I posted in the first post of this thread. Maybe you're seeing progressive green push that some first series units had.

How old and what firmware is the PJ? This is the first time you used a progressive player I guess?

If it's a recent model or recent firmware there's some added features under User 1, something like YUU, RGB. You could try these.

Hi Tom

I think the probs more than just green push - The whole image has a slight blur - image quality is aweful and is very noticable when pulling up the players setup-menu - Not sharp at all :/.

The H30 also detects the signal as Analogue rather than Component which is a bit odd.

Update : I've checked all menus and cant find anything mentioning YUU or RGB etc in any of the menus - Assuming this is in the user menus and not the service menu?!

simong ,

-- What you are describing is not the Green push issue [ from the early firmware ] .

-- Did you check for Component Output Modes on the DVD player ?


--------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
simong ,

-- What you are describing is not the Green push issue [ from the early firmware ] .

-- Did you check for Component Output Modes on the DVD player ?


--------- Jason

Hi Jason

I checked but there aren't any component modes in the player menus other than PS on/off and selecting RGB, YUV(?) or SVideo.
I've sent an email to both Philips and Optoma to see if a known prob

And you tried both RGB and YUV output ?

------- Jason

The RGB YUU would be under the basic picture choices for settings, like film, video, user 1

My H30 is crapping out again . I went to start it up and it struck 4 times without success, then the orange light and fan came on . After the green light came back I tried again and the same pattern repeated . Is this another dead bulb or something else ? This is my second bulb and it only has around 400 hours on it . The first bulb broke after about 70 hours . Is Optoma using lousy bulbs or is the machine doing something that causes the bulb to fail prematurely ? Either way , this is getting very frustrating .

BrockH- I bet that is frustrating. As has been mentioned here before- an easy test may be to unplug the unit overnight then plug it back in and test to see if that perhaps solves the issue. I hope it does for you.

Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman
There will be no digital shift firmware.

Wow! That disappoints big time. I was really looking forward to it. I guess that's what I get for buying from a small company. They may have good service for failed projectors, but I expected better support for my >$1k investment.

Just pitching in my opinion, although I'm not optimistic Optoma will pay any attention.

clamrade, keep pitching lol,

We really don't need a digital shift as long as they allow a C05 or C07 option. Unless you really wanted to see the image move up and down the screen. :)

Bulb probs, first thing you do is re-seat the bulb, make sure there's good contact there. Then if no go, back it goes for evaluation. There's a 90day warranty from the co or bulb company, hope you're under.

We really don't need a digital shift as long as they allow a C05 or C07 option. Unless you really wanted to see the image move up and down the screen.

I think it is not that easy to get update back to C05. I would rather update to NEW version to get rid of the 16:9 picture being in upper part of 4:3 screen. C07 will probably contain other improvements as well (green bar anyone) that might be useful.

Or to be more precise, if no digital shift is possible, then at least an update to get 16:9 picture back to lower part of 4:3 screen in ceiling mount.

But I can understand that Optoma is more interested in making business with new models rather than supporting existing userbase with continuous new updates. I wish they had done it correctly in the first place, anyway.

Originally posted by guitarman
The RGB YUU would be under the basic picture choices for settings, like film, video, user 1

Hi Tom

Sorry to turn this thread into a PS support one!
I'll check the menu's again but I dont recall seeing this option.

The manual says I can adjust the frequencies using the signal menu option and states...

"The “Signal” sub menu is supported under the Analog RGB and Analog
YPbPr input sources."

I'll also check this.

Qick sanity check - In connecting a PS player via Ybr, should the H30 detect it as an analogue signal?. I'd assumed it would be seen as Component !?

Thanks again for all the help guys

Interesting - Just had a reply from Optoma ref my PS prob....

"Hello there please can you provide me with your units serial number and pickup address as there is a solution that we have for your problem, please ring us on 01923 691800 to book your unit in. Many thanks Optoma Europe"

Hey guys a question, currently I'm using my HTPC into my H30 thru my Ti4200 DVI output with a DVI to VGA converter. I was looking at one of the Samsung Upconverting DVD Players with DVI output. Would I be able to use that same converter to send the DVI out to the VGA in of the projector? Also how would the projector handle scaling back the Player?

If the Samsung DVD players output only DVI-D, you won't be able to. You'll need a DVD player that outputs DVI-I which includes both the straight digital DVI signal as well as the VGA signal. I believe the Bravo is capable of this.

Originally posted by simong
Hi Tom

Sorry to turn this thread into a PS support one!
I'll check the menu's again but I dont recall seeing this option.

The manual says I can adjust the frequencies using the signal menu option and states...

"The “Signal” sub menu is supported under the Analog RGB and Analog
YPbPr input sources."

I'll also check this.

Qick sanity check - In connecting a PS player via Ybr, should the H30 detect it as an analogue signal?. I'd assumed it would be seen as Component !?

Thanks again for all the help guys

Analog YPbPr is component. Looks like they have a PAL fix for your H30, lets us know how it goes?

Originally posted by simong
Interesting - Just had a reply from Optoma ref my PS prob....

"Hello there please can you provide me with your units serial number and pickup address as there is a solution that we have for your problem, please ring us on 01923 691800 to book your unit in. Many thanks Optoma Europe"

Simong, I had probs with my H30 when I bought and connected a Thomson DVD/hard drive recorder a few months ago, the picture was unstable when playing DVD's but OK when fed from the hard drive.
I contacted Optoma who said exactly the same thing to me as they said to you.
One phone call later and a courier picked the H30 up the next day, it was returned within a week totally cured and completely at Optoma's expense including the carriage.
I got nothing but the highest praise for their product support (incidentally I use RGB from Scart not component).

Well what you waiting for, pick up the phone?

Regards & good luck, MikeDes

Originally posted by guitarman
clamrade, keep pitching lol,

We really don't need a digital shift as long as they allow a C05 or C07 option. Unless you really wanted to see the image move up and down the screen. :)

Bulb probs, first thing you do is re-seat the bulb, make sure there's good contact there. Then if no go, back it goes for evaluation. There's a 90day warranty from the co or bulb company, hope you're under.


It turns out my setup forces the center of the 4:3 image to be at the center of the screen. With C05 or C07, I have to move the projector vertically about a foot to use the 16:9 native mode. My current solution is to use the 4:3 native mode with HTPC, but I cannot effectively view 4:3 content w/o overfilling my 16:9 screen. I guess now I might have to invest in a 100" 4:3 pull-down.

What I really needed was the 4:3 mode to be centered, but what I wanted was to see Optoma care enough about their existing customers to support their "old" models a bit longer. Just more of my *itching...

How old is this model anyhow?

Originally posted by mikedes
Simong, I had probs with my H30 when I bought and connected a Thomson DVD/hard drive recorder a few months ago, the picture was unstable when playing DVD's but OK when fed from the hard drive.
I contacted Optoma who said exactly the same thing to me as they said to you.
One phone call later and a courier picked the H30 up the next day, it was returned within a week totally cured and completely at Optoma's expense including the carriage.
I got nothing but the highest praise for their product support (incidentally I use RGB from Scart not component).

Well what you waiting for, pick up the phone?

Regards & good luck, MikeDes

Come to think of it I never managed to get a stable image from my old Philips DVD Recorder. The image used to break up and give a double-image - Assumed it was the recorder that was at fault as my main DVD player at the time worked ok.

Thanks for everyones help - Will let you know how the repair goes :)

Originally posted by clamrade
It turns out my setup forces the center of the 4:3 image to be at the center of the screen. With C05 or C07, I have to move the projector vertically about a foot to use the 16:9 native mode. My current solution is to use the 4:3 native mode with HTPC, but I cannot effectively view 4:3 content w/o overfilling my 16:9 screen. I guess now I might have to invest in a 100" 4:3 pull-down.

What I really needed was the 4:3 mode to be centered, but what I wanted was to see Optoma care enough about their existing customers to support their "old" models a bit longer. Just more of my *itching...

How old is this model anyhow?
Huh? I have C05 and when I switch back and forth between 16x9 and 4x3 (not native) modes on the H30, the image would be contained perfectly within a 16:9 screen. The 4x3 mode just has pillars on the sides and uses the middle 2/3 of the screen. Is this the HTPC that causes you to have to move the projector??

Originally posted by clamrade
It turns out my setup forces the center of the 4:3 image to be at the center of the screen. With C05 or C07, I have to move the projector vertically about a foot to use the 16:9 native mode. My current solution is to use the 4:3 native mode with HTPC, but I cannot effectively view 4:3 content w/o overfilling my 16:9 screen. I guess now I might have to invest in a 100" 4:3 pull-down.

What I really needed was the 4:3 mode to be centered, but what I wanted was to see Optoma care enough about their existing customers to support their "old" models a bit longer. Just more of my *itching...

How old is this model anyhow?

It came out when I first started this thread, I think I got the first one. :) The minute I heard a projector was coming out with the DDR chip and RGB/RGB colorwheel at a low price I scoured the net every day calling places direct. Finally up in Salt lake City and outfit came thru. The morning I called them they said huh they just got here today. So immediate purchase and a 2day ship. Then a happy camper. :)

If you use a 16.9 screen you need to use 16.9 scaled & 4.3 scaled, you could use 16.9native for 2.35 movies only, a 1.85 movie at 16.9native would push the image off the screen. Same thing for HDTV.

I suggest -
16.9 screen users - use 16.9 & 4.3 (16.9native option for 2.35dvds only).
4.3 screen users - use 16.9native & 4.3native. (all of the time).

That's if you've positioned your 16:9 screen at the bottom/top (for ceiling mounted C05/C07) of the optical field. My screen is smack in the middle of the field, and I cannot use C05 or C07 in 16:9 mode w/o using a large amount of keystone due to some odd physical constraints of my setup. :(

What firmware do you have now C03?

I think I read you're using HTPC, pretty sure you can have the image anywhere within the 4.3 area with HTPC adjustments. Think it's like that for the new firmwares also. Jason uses HTPC, says he can shift the 16.9 image anywhere.

Hi i'm new to this post, read alot, made my decision to buy the H30, but i just bought the Samsung DVD-HD841 player, and the dvi doesnt seem to work with the H30 and the component work work either, i can only get s-video and composit to work with the H30 and DVD player, i read just a couple of posts before this somone said the dvi wont work, this was like shortly after i got the samsung, and so i figured if all else fails i can use component, but i cant get that to work, any ideas? thanks for your help, love this forum.

Arty13

Maybe there's a place in the Samsung menu to turn on the component vs turning off the DVI.

I'm using C05. And yup, the 16:9 image can be placed anywhere in the field depending on how I choose to do the "overlay" on the secondary monitor output. The problem is with 4:3 contents. I cannot get those to properly fit in my 16:9 screen.

Oh, well. I guess I better save up for the 100" high power model B... another $250 I shouldn't be spending. :)

Thanks guitarman for your response, well the component worked, i tried it again today after i posted the question and it worked... maybe it was because i had svideo in it also... so component works... but i still want to use dvi on it :( do you think there is any possible way? in the manual i think it says it used a dvi-i cable, but its digital...something like that...
here is a link to the manual if you want to check it out.. its a pdf file...
... guess it wont let me post a url untill i post 5 or more replys... so i attached the file :)... guess the files to big... well if you want to look, go to samsung.com and look for support/manuals for the DVD-HD841
wow longer url than i thought... thanks a bunch.

Arty
add www in front of the below...
samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/support/b2c_support_product_results.jsp?eUser=&CatPath=%2fAudio+and+Video%2fDVD+Player%2fHi-Def+Conversion+DVD+Players&_categorySearch:_ListLevel4=71109#

Arty,

I believe that the Samsung is only DVI-D, not DVI-I. If so, it would not be compatible with the H30. You'd have to use a DVD player that outputs DVI-I. You could try the Bravo or the Momitsu. Keep in mind, that you'd essentially be using a VGA signal.

Miguel.

Originally posted by Fabbas
Arty,

I believe that the Samsung is only DVI-D, not DVI-I.

That's correct. You can't use the DVI output of the Samsung with the H30. It also has HDCP, so you couldn't even use a converter with it.

Originally posted by clamrade
I'm using C05. And yup, the 16:9 image can be placed anywhere in the field depending on how I choose to do the "overlay" on the secondary monitor output. The problem is with 4:3 contents. I cannot get those to properly fit in my 16:9 screen.

Oh, well. I guess I better save up for the 100" high power model B... another $250 I shouldn't be spending. :)

Right the digital shift would hv been perfect for you. On the other hand a 100" 4.3 HP screen will be a better match than the 16.9 one, jmo

Watch you'll be back here doing a jig once you start using it. Things like I don't know how I ever enjoyed watching 4.3 so small before! :) and 16.9native makes for even bigger HDTV and 1.85video. Same screen width but you increase the video size across the board.

Guess i'll have to use the component with the samsung dvd-hd841, but i'll look into the other dvd players... might end up switching... also i'm using a vga splitter with my computer and dvd player( just came today), the computer is using dvi with a vga adapter, and the dvd player is using component with vga adapter, and when playing the dvd player its fine, but when i have computer on it, the image is distorted, its like it has 2 images but is slightly off.. is there a way to fix this? or do i need to get a vga splitter box? and one last thing... do you know the freq of the H30 remote, so i can use a universal remote to turn it on and off? rather than having 2? thanks

Arty13

You can use any learning universal remote to learn the commands from the H30 remote.

Mike, i mean i want to use my reciever's universal remote to turn on/off the H30, and to add different components i need a remote code to be able to use the other components, so i just need the code which i believe is the frequency code... so yeah.. thanks

Arty

Originally posted by Arty13
Mike, i mean i want to use my reciever's universal remote to turn on/off the H30, and to add different components i need a remote code to be able to use the other components, so i just need the code which i believe is the frequency code... so yeah.. thanks

Arty

MikeSRC referred to "learning". If the Optoma remote doesn't have a code you usually teach your Universal to "learn" what you want it to learn from the Optoma remote directly. It usually involves lots of time of pointing the remotes head to head and pushing and holding buttons. There's also a pretty swanky method of programming your remote via a thing called JP1 (pending your remote supports it).

CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO ON JP1 (http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/help/index.shtml)

I also heard MikeSRC has a little side biz that deals with these type of things, so I'm pretty sure he knows what he's talking about ;)

I'm saving up for either a Philips Pronto or the mack daddy of them all the MX-3000. Or just until I modify a touch screen LCD to control my entire system.

:D

Cheers and beers,

KimoCal

Originally posted by Arty13
Mike, i mean i want to use my reciever's universal remote to turn on/off the H30, and to add different components i need a remote code to be able to use the other components, so i just need the code which i believe is the frequency code... so yeah.. thanks

Arty

If you're using your receiver's remote as a universal (most of them really aren't "universal" no matter what they say) and it doesn't have learning ability, there isn't much you can do if there aren't any codes available for the H30 in the owner's manual. They're not frequencies, just code numbers and they're usually proprietary to the particular remote. There are a few exceptions to this, but generally you're stuck with what you have.

Well, the H30 is on it's way to Optoma for repair! Hope I get it back soon! Maybe they will send me a new H31 instead....:)

Denon 1600 arrives tomorrow for pickup. Schweeeeet....

Mike

Mike, goods new that Arun confirms you can choose C05 or C07. C07 looks right for your 16.9 setup. Let us know if the picture looks better. They say the picture supposed to look a little better.

How did you find a 1600?

Great news that the choice of C05 or C07 is now being offered Tom. Thanks for your efforts!! :)

My H30 gets collected by Optoma tomorrow to have the progressive Scan prob fixed by a firmware upgrade :)

Anyone else think that Optoma must be cursing the day they didn't make the H30 firmware user upgradable - Must be costing them a fortune in courier costs alone!

They also agreed to ship me the backlit remote free of charge...strangely though they say the lens mask is a chargeble option and costs £35!!!
Seems a bit steep for a plastic cut out - surely the remote must cost more to produce?

Your problem is PAL related isn't it? The mask is metal. Here we could get the Mask for free minus the shipping. The remote we have to pay for. Consider yourself lucky, the remote is $99.

How many people are still using their lens masks? I haven't had mine on since about the second week I had the projector. It gave a very slight reduction in light spill on the ceiling and in return gave a very slight dimming of the bottom edge of the image- no matter how many times I tried to adjust how it fit in the lens. There's no way I'd pay $64 U.S. for that. :)

Cheers!

I was using it ok, I think it's best for 16.9 screen users using the tape tweak. You could velcro your FLD filter on it also.

These shots all have the lens mask on. I see a little shade, but pretty sure I was able to angle it away. Man do some of these shots show excellent opened up black detail. I think this is one of the H30 finest attributes.


http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h304.31.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h304.32.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h304.33.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h304.34.jpg


http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30lee14.3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30lee24.3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30lee34.3.jpg

First off thank you to you all for making this thread an information junky's paradise for my last 7 or 8 months. It has been great. Unfortunately my first post has to be a sad one.

Similar to others, my lamp won't strike after around four tries and just shuts down after revealing the lamp error led. And of course I don't even have 200 hrs on the lamp. Looks like I'll be sending it back to Optomaland and cross my fingers that they don't tell me it's just the lamp.

I didn't hear any popping sound and all looked fine inside when I tried to reseat the bulb. I even unplugged it for 24hrs and tried again to no avail.

On the bright side, at least I can get CO7 and reduce my keystone level.

Please let me know if there is anything besides the obvious that I can mention on the RMA form or over the phone that might help my chances of not having to shell out $350+ for a new bulb.

Thanks,
Robfive

Originally posted by robfive
Please let me know if there is anything besides the obvious that I can mention on the RMA form or over the phone that might help my chances of not having to shell out $350+ for a new bulb.
Tom's name.. :D

Kidding... sorry for your troubles and keep your fingers crossed that it's not the bulb.

I was doing some catch-up on the 4805 thread the other night and saw posts indicating some are developing color wheel whine and some (even Jason) were having top to bottom focus uniformity issues. Certainly not poking fun at that unit but it doesn't appear to me that the H30 is the only unit that can develop issues. I question whether FP's will gain a strong foothold with the masses until they're as simple and reliable as a tube T.V. Not that that is a bad thing in my eyes- then we'll still have an unusual toy. :)

Cheers!

You'll have to hope it's the power supply. Nasty business about the bulbs with projectors. Looks like there's a reason the bulb company just gives 90days. Two years on the PJ, 90 measly days on the bulbs.

You might get lucky.

Tom - I found a 1600 at a B&M store that is in WA, OR and CA. Name of a tree and it started in Seattle. :) They had just finished inventory and I was looking for a new player and I asked if they might have one. Low and behold there was one in OR. Good price and a 4 year warranty. Gotta love it!

I hope to have the C07 firmware. It looks like my current setup will provide a near perfect, level image. I will report out on the quality.

Mike

Super player the 1600. Interesting it has the same menu's, colors/layout everything as the Pany RP82, Xp50, Xp30. I've had them all. Absolutly the best players you can get. Lucky find, enjoy

Is there a group buy for H30 bulbs planned?

Google is your best shot for shaving a few bucks off bulb prices. I think I have a link around of an outfit that re-does your dead bulb for a minimal fee. It's a crap shoot though.

Originally posted by robfive
Similar to others, my lamp won't strike after around four tries and just shuts down after revealing the lamp error led. And of course I don't even have 200 hrs on the lamp. Looks like I'll be sending it back to Optomaland and cross my fingers that they don't tell me it's just the lamp.


Hello,

I have my H30 in exact same condition - AGAIN !

It first happened after 2-3 months of purchasing and now again after 6 months. Around 250 hours now. It wasn't lamp at the first time and I assume (and hope) it's not this time either.

Wonder what the heck is it.... Optoma don't give any service-raport for repairs. I hope they change my unit this time instead of TRYING to repeair it again.

Since i've Had my H30 Mounted I've been leaving it, as many here have, in Standby Mode. At most I go 3-4 days between a viewing (Especially with the World Series happening0 I notice the top of the PJ is slightly warm. What keeps it warm?

Originally posted by guitarman
Google is your best shot for shaving a few bucks off bulb prices. I think I have a link around of an outfit that re-does your dead bulb for a minimal fee. It's a crap shoot though.
Typing the H30 bulb part number of SP80A01001 into the search field at pricegrabber yields a pretty generous sampling. I wonder if the forum sponsors such as ProjectorPeople would make a concession for AVS members?

Cheers!

A very slight amount of electricity's going to the PJ. Not a bother and standby is the best way to use the projector. Full power down if you're gone for vacation. And that part is just to cover any possible power surges.

Good news that the no strike is a power supply and not the bulb.
Good luck

Originally posted by guitarman
Good news that the no strike is a power supply and not the bulb.
Good luck

I sure hope that is the case. I'll be shipping my H30 out today as soon as I get my RMA#. Hopefully all will go well. If not then I know what my early Christmas present will have to be. It's killing me watching movies on my 27" JVC from 1989!

robfive

hi guys
i have been reading these forums for a while now plus the uk av forums.
At the moment i own a panasonic ptae100 , had it for two years.
All this talk of the themescene h30 has got me interested so i have gone ahead and ordered one should be here by the weekend .
What i would like advice on is at the moment i use a hoya fl-day lens filter 55mm with the panasonic .Can this be used with the h30?.Also at the moment my screen size is 8ft from a distance of about 13ft do you think this will be to close for the themescene h30.I have worked out the size for the h30 screen size from there website and it should project about a 7ft image from that distance.Just one last thing ...rainbows are there as bad as people makeout,only seen a sim2 in action did not notice any .Can you tell me what is the best film to show up rainbows?
I am from the uk is the themescene h30 any different from ntsc and pal version.They say on the website optimized for europe.
thanks..

Sarge, you're in for a huge upgrade in picture quality. I had an AE100 once, big difference with the H30. Don't worry you're not rainbow prone from what I read. Sure you can try the FLD, see if you like it or not. With out the filter the H30 shines, so either way filter or no filter.

Rob five, good luck on the repair. Yeah on the TV's, once you've gone front projector there's no going back. You're a lifetime mole, lol

Here are a few more custom 1:1 pixel mapped resolutions/display timings via PowerStrip for the H30 with the PC, to complement the existing timing that Saturn AD kindly shared with the rest of us (thanks, it worked perfectly for me!):

Saturn AD 800x450 timing:

800x450=800,48,128,80,450,85,4,89,39937,272


Two more timings for you:

800x480 @ 59.979Hz (useful for pc games, especially the new CounterStirke Source when you enable 16:9 mode in the games video config)

800x480=800,24,184,48,480,117,5,26,39776,2048


640x480 @ 60.053Hz (standard VGA res good for pc stuff (e.g. games) that use this res, looks nicer when pixel mapped and centered in the middle of the DMD, no scaling artifacts or hard to see text or other dialog components)

640x480=640,176,80,160,480,59,9,80,39825,2048

Hope these are useful for some of you.

Originally posted by sargetheboss
What i would like advice on is at the moment i use a hoya fl-day lens filter 55mm with the panasonic .Can this be used with the h30?

As Tom said, give the FL-D filter a try and see how you like it. I've used one for awhile, but now I'm back to not using it.


Also at the moment my screen size is 8ft from a distance of about 13ft do you think this will be to close for the themescene h30.I have worked out the size for the h30 screen size from there website and it should project about a 7ft image from that distance.

At 13', you can have an image from 6 to 7-1/2 feet wide. To get to 8', you need 14'.


Just one last thing ...rainbows are there as bad as people makeout,only seen a sim2 in action did not notice any .Can you tell me what is the best film to show up rainbows?


I've found the headlights and flickering fire in the opening scenes of Blade 2 to be a good test of rainbows. I saw them with the 3X wheel of the BenQ 6100, but not with the H30. You can also force yourself to see them by moving your head quickly in such scenes. There are some people that see them with any speed color wheel, but if you didn't see any with the Sim2, you shouldn't have a problem with the H30.

Guitarman
Just got a H30 myself. What kind of screen do you use? Will a homemade painted Misty Evening gray be too dark? It's what I was using with my Z1.

Carada 92" diag in 1.2 bright white. Fixed tensioned. Best money I ever spent.

Mike

Originally posted by tiptaz
Guitarman
Just got a H30 myself. What kind of screen do you use? Will a homemade painted Misty Evening gray be too dark? It's what I was using with my Z1.

I'll chime in on this. I originally had a ME painted screen (Z1 - go figure) also. When I upgraded to the H30 I found that I really didn't need it and ended up with plain white (parkland). You might want to get some Ultra Pure White and paint a seperate scrap piece - then compare that the ME screen and decide for yourself. The H30 doesn't really need much help in the black level department.

The H30 is nice and bright and doesn't need any help in the blacks. Best of both worlds.

I use nuetral gain mat white. White screens are good for color uniformity. It's not a very high gain but the H30 has the goods, (bright w/detailed blacks/contrast.

How long is turnaround on a repair from Optoma Tom?

Mike

Once they receive it they test and fix it in about 2days Not sure what speed of ship you get on the return.

Originally posted by Shock96
How long is turnaround on a repair from Optoma Tom?

Mike

2 weeks last time.
Courier picked up from home and returned same place after 2 weeks and 2 hours.

Nice to see all the new H30 owners!
Anyhow, was playing X-men Legends on the PS2 the other night and the color got all washed out, then back to bright again a couple times the first 15 minutes I was playing. After that it stayed normal. Anyone ever see anything like this, my bulb about to go or should I check my connections?
Thanks!

connections!

Just wanted to post a screen shot of my H30 in use because I have been working to tweak the color over the past couple months. Also I got a high power screen and I'm happy with the way it is all turning out. The PJ is ceiling mounted so I dont get the full brightness of the high power but it provides just enough more over the matt to make me happy. With the PJ at eye level using the high power it's almost too much as SDE increases.

This pic is very accurate in what I see on the screen as far as color balance and contrast/brightness. The pic is slightly softer than the real thing. In person there is a bit more detail.

Hello guys, first post ever.
I just received my HD Comcast receiver (Motorola) and connected to the H30 through a component cable.
The result was a 1:1.41 PQ and not 1:1.78 (a lot closer to a standard 4:3), I tried all of the pJ options - 16:9/native 4:3/native nothing seems to work, any idea how to widen the image?

Thanks.

Originally posted by RobRoy
Just wanted to post a screen shot of my H30 in use because I have been working to tweak the color over the past couple months. Also I got a high power screen and I'm happy with the way it is all turning out. The PJ is ceiling mounted so I dont get the full brightness of the high power but it provides just enough more over the matt to make me happy. With the PJ at eye level using the high power it's almost too much as SDE increases.

This pic is very accurate in what I see on the screen as far as color balance and contrast/brightness. The pic is slightly softer than the real thing. In person there is a bit more detail.

You got it down! there bro. I'd swear you clipped off my colorfacts screen shot of Darla. Getting good and RGB adjustments aren't you? :)

Originally posted by jdylan
Hello guys, first post ever.
I just received my HD Comcast receiver (Motorola) and connected to the H30 through a component cable.
The result was a 1:1.41 PQ and not 1:1.78 (a lot closer to a standard 4:3), I tried all of the pJ options - 16:9/native 4:3/native nothing seems to work, any idea how to widen the image?

Thanks.

Go into the setup/service menu of the motorola. have the cable box off and then hit the menu button down for a bit. An all white screen should pop up, there you change to hmmm, 16.9 1080i and 4.3 480i override.

That's what I want to hear Guitarman. I spend at least 5 hours every day editing video which includes color corection so you kind of develop an eye. I've seen folks report "dithering" or artifacts in dark scenes but from what I've found this is mostly due to brightness settings in the advanced menu being set too high or not being balanced.

Thanks Tom, worked like a charm, although how do I know if the program is truly HD or am I just stretching a 4:3?

HD comes in two forms sometimes. Even with the same feed. Like watch ESPN football tomorrow. The games will be in 16.9 and replay clips will come in 4.3. CSI is widescreen. Survivor is 4.3.
Monday Night football is 16.9 but Comcast didn't ante up for Fox yet. I use OTA for fox. Fox still has some stuff in 16.9 480p also.

Look to see what the projector says when you re-sync for the signal.

Rob, they can tune brightness down to fade the dithering alright. The H77 almost comes dither free with the extra dark green segments, but at a high cost. :)

I put a little how to on color adjustments up in the first post, if anyone actually looks at the first post anymore. ;)

Page 4 of the forum? No posts in 54 hours??? Sacrilege.. :)

I saw, I thought this might be the end of the line.

Everyone left when they heard there will be no more firmware updates. ;)

Ok to show the H30 is still a force to be reckoned with. I took these pictures yesterday. Again one of THE best at showing detail in the blacks, colors so natural it's unbelievable. enjoy

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30u571contour.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30u571blacks1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30u571blacks2.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30lotrmonolith.jpg

And now for desert! unbelievably nice
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30vertical1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30vertical2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30vertical3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30vertical4.jpg

Tom,

If you don't mind I'd like to get your opinion on comparing the new Dell 2300MP XGA pj to the H30. This unit has 2300 lumens and CR is 2100:1 full on/full off. It's 4:3 native.

http://www.shopcol.com/dell2300mp.html

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Wayne

Those Vertical shots (not sure what movie that is) look really nice Tom. Very nice film-like facial tones.

Cheers!

And that was post# 600, I'm gettin up there :)

Now- how many of those have been of any real value. hehehe

Ok guys, I have a chance to get a brand new H56A for a very reasonable price. Full warranty etc. How does it compare to the H30?

Mike

PS: DHL tried to deliver my repaired H30, gotta go get for the weekend!

The H56a is a huge step up from the H30. If I had a choice I'd get one, infact I'm keeping my eye out for a deal on one. Mainly cause I like a 4.3 projector and the 56a next to the HT1000 are as good as it gets.

Wayne, re the Dell, In general a presentation projector won't work as well as a HT designed model. Have to reference a face off review at HT-mag. BenQ 6200 didn't get picked over the h30.

Maybe just maybe the Mitsubishi XD300 could look ok, it's got faroujda and colors were reported to be pretty good. Then you still hv to worry about blacks & fan noise and rainbows.

Thanks Tom.

It might be worth it to just hang on to my X1 until we see what CES surprises us with. Then again, if I come across a deal on the H30, well...
I read the review you speak of. Very impressive indeed what they say about the H30.

Thanks again!

Wayne

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Those Vertical shots (not sure what movie that is) look really nice Tom. Very nice film-like facial tones.

Cheers!

Yes they look like a million bucks, that's Vertical Limit = considered reference quality plus it's 1.85aspect.

The shot I really like is the u571 sub shot of the boarding party in the rain. So black yet so much detail. :)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h30u571blacks1.jpg

Ok, I got my H30 back up and running with the Denon 1600. All fixed with a new bulb at 5 hours! Very nice! My measurements were right on the money. All setup with zero keystone.

Out comes the Digital Video Essentials. I run thru the calibration. My settings this time around are very different than before and the picture is not so good.

The image is a bit softer than before and there is a green tinge to everything. With everything calibrated to what DVE says is correct, it looks flat and a bit lifeless with a green tint to it.

I try LOTR out and the whole first chapter is a bit green and flat. After messing around with the tint, it looks better then chapter 2 starts and the greens stink, too red. More messing around with tint and color and it looks OK, but not as good as it was. Is it possible it is the DVD player? My RP91 looked great and the Denon 1600 has the same MPEG decoder on it so it should look about the same.

Should I wait for the 100 hour mark before I get worried about the picture. It's not unwatchable or anything, but I was spoiled by the fine, saturated colors from before and I want it back!

What can I do to fix this problem? Thanks!

I do have an opportunity to get a new H56A for very cheap. I might have to pick it up.

Mike

Hey Mike-

Do you still have the RP91 so you can hook it up as it was before? That would narrow it down as to whether it's the player or not.

Cheers!

Originally posted by guitarman
Yes they look like a million bucks, that's Vertical Limit = considered [/url]

Funny - that's the 1st movie I ever watched on a FP. I was so blown away by the visual quality of that movie that I couldn't even tell you what the story was about (actually I think the story sucked).

On an unrelated note, I've been using an old 480i player with my H30 recently (panasonic RV-80) and I have to say that the H30 does a very good job with interlaced sources. Everyone dismisses non-Faroudja deinterlacers, but this looks good enough that I may sell off my uber-expensive HTPC. (I don't dare post this decision in the HTPC forum for fear of being burned alive:) ) Maybe I can finally afford a REAL screen!

I was using an RV32 pany 480i player for a while and it looked excellent, smooth but sharp.

Mike, you need to adjust your grayscale for 480p, go to the first post in this thread and read the how to.

Interesting MJolson- Why are you considering giving up the HTPC?

I have been toying around with the idea of putting together an HTPC after seeing Jason's stunning results with it and seeing the FFDShow review that gives before/after examples, wow. I still question whether I have the time, skill and frankly interest in screwing around with something incessantly to get that extra 5-20% picture.

What has been your experience? I saved Bam's Powerstrip settings from the last page for future reference and I wondered how long it took for him to come up with those. :)

Cheers!

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Interesting MJolson- Why are you considering giving up the HTPC?

I have been toying around with the idea of putting together an HTPC after seeing Jason's stunning results with it and seeing the FFDShow review that gives before/after examples, wow. I still question whether I have the time, skill and frankly interest in screwing around with something incessantly to get that extra 5-20% picture.

What has been your experience? I saved Bam's Powerstrip settings from the last page for future reference and I wondered how long it took for him to come up with those. :)

Cheers!

I haven't given it up yet - just toying with the idea. (and dreaming of what I could do with the extra cash!)

I use TT 2.02, ffdshow and SageTV. Resizing with ffdshow is nice, but I don't feel the results are that apparent on a 800x600 projector. If I was using a 720p FP then it'd be a bigger deal. We don't use any of the features of Sage (our SD cable sucks regardless), and we don't play games very often. So, really it boils down to an expensive PC just to store and playback DVD. Now, factor in that we only rent DVD's - the storage issue is moot.

If you want all of the extra features that an HTPC provides (media storage, PVR, gaming, etc..) then there's no substitute. For DVD only, it's proven (to me at least) to be overkill paired with a budget projector.

I've been switching back and forth between the RV80(component) and the HTPC(vga) and comparing PQ. The component input isn't calibrated yet, but the only minus I see is that it appears slightly dimmer (I think a progressive signal is brighter). The overall PQ is similar, unless you really want to get up close and point to the tiny little details I guess I'm lucky?? - my eyesight is crappy, so the little details don't matter much to me:)

PS - If you don't want to mess with Powerstrip, set the HTPC at plain old 800x600 and let the H30 scale it to 800x450. It looks just as good on DVD, only the desktop suffers.

Mike

Tom- Thanks for the info. I will play with it more this evening.

Mike

Hey Shock I recently bought the 1600 and use it with my H30. Don't forget to push the "progressive" button on the front. It turns off whenever you pull the plug on the unit. Also the unit looses all your settings when it's unplugged. You want to be sure to choose the "darker" setting for blacks on the internal video menu to increase contrast. Also you may want to select the "cinema" setting on the remote. Again the settings all dissapear if power is cut off from the unit but not when it is switched off.

Originally posted by Shock96
Tom- Thanks for the info. I will play with it more this evening.

Mike

Start this way, first find the color temp which displays gray steps the best, probably 1 or 2.

Then with the Graysteps pattern first delete the color you need. Lets say the brighter grays show red and you have to move R-contrast to minus 8. For balance make it instead minus 4 and increase the Blue and Green plus 4 each. Say now the reds gone but you see a little blue in the brighter grays, just move blue down a little to fix. You'll get the hang of it it's easy.

You might end up with something like this.

R-contrast minus 4
B-contrast plus 3
G-contrast plus 4

Thanks mjolson- good stuff..

Cheers!

Hi Guys

Got my H30 back from repair yesterday - BUT still have the same issue with progressive Scan :(
The Firmware has definately been updated but the symproms are exactly the same.
I've also noticed that there is a definate green push whether using PS or not that wasn't there before the firmware was updated.

The prob with Progressive Scan is that it causes the image to be blurred and has a horrid green tint.
Optoma said this was a known issue but the repair/firmware upgrade appears to have made things worse.
The player is a Philips DVP630 and they say there are no known compatibility issues with the machine.
Any ideas?

Softness sounds like the Player. I've had a Sharp a JVC a Lite-on that all had a ugly soft picture. Then again I have a Phillips Q50 that's too sharp. Not sure about your model, could you test another player?

The color tints mean you'll have to tune to pictures with the RGB-advanced adjustments. the how to is in the first post of this thread.

Could you see if you have the added feature under the User 1 mode? Should look something like RGB/YUU, if so try YUU.

If I hit RGB with this feature I'll get an all green picture, YUU will show correct colors. If that's not it, adjust the RGB's.

Hi Tom

I'll check for that new menu option - Didnt notice anything last night though.

I wouldn't say the image was soft - It's blurred to the degree where the outside of the DVD player menu boxes are actually distorted.

Originally posted by gottahavapj
Interesting MJolson- Why are you considering giving up the HTPC?

I have been toying around with the idea of putting together an HTPC after seeing Jason's stunning results with it and seeing the FFDShow review that gives before/after examples, wow. I still question whether I have the time, skill and frankly interest in screwing around with something incessantly to get that extra 5-20% picture.

What has been your experience? I saved Bam's Powerstrip settings from the last page for future reference and I wondered how long it took for him to come up with those. :)

Cheers!


Where did you see the "FFDShow review"? I'm interested in trying out FFDShow for that extra 5-20%. :)

hi tom and the rest of the guys
Received themescene h30 on the 3rd nov.
Out of the box picture was not that great but thanks to you lot on this forum i got my head round all of the settings.The big problem i had was the offset my last projector was about 1ft from ceilng and the picture came in at about 6 inches from ceiling with 8ft screen.
h30 picture was almost on the floor but i have it all sorted now.
I am using the mask with my fl-d filter and i think the picture is amazing seen a couple of rainbows but i can not see what all the fuss is about.
My last projector was the panny ptae100 and you had filters to clean are there any on the h30 i need worry about.I have set the picture setting through the component cable do these setting stay fot the s-video or do i need to set that up aswell because sky is running through s-video.
Thanks guys i nearly went and purchased the panny 700 am i glad i didn't with all the problems i have been reading with vb.
That is what i had on the panny ptae100 plus a bit of colour uniformity.
Can the h30 have colour uniformity?
thanks again guys:) :)
i will try and post some screen shots soon.

Originally posted by clamrade
Where did you see the "FFDShow review"? I'm interested in trying out FFDShow for that extra 5-20%. :)
From what Mike said I don't know that the results would be this dramatic but would be interesting to try. the Austin Powers pic almost looks like they defocused it for the "before" shot the difference is so dramatic.

http://htpcnews.com/main.php?id=ffdshowdvd_1

Cheers!

Originally posted by sargetheboss
hi tom and the rest of the guys
Received themescene h30 on the 3rd nov.
Out of the box picture was not that great but thanks to you lot on this forum i got my head round all of the settings.The big problem i had was the offset my last projector was about 1ft from ceilng and the picture came in at about 6 inches from ceiling with 8ft screen.
h30 picture was almost on the floor but i have it all sorted now.
I am using the mask with my fl-d filter and i think the picture is amazing seen a couple of rainbows but i can not see what all the fuss is about.
My last projector was the panny ptae100 and you had filters to clean are there any on the h30 i need worry about.I have set the picture setting through the component cable do these setting stay fot the s-video or do i need to set that up aswell because sky is running through s-video.
Thanks guys i nearly went and purchased the panny 700 am i glad i didn't with all the problems i have been reading with vb.
That is what i had on the panny ptae100 plus a bit of colour uniformity.
Can the h30 have colour uniformity?
thanks again guys:) :)
i will try and post some screen shots soon.
Welcome Sarge- congrats on your purchase.

No filters to clean, it's a sealed light engine (think that's the term).

Each signal needs to be calibrated/tweaked separately. Not only by physical connection but by signal as well. I have both my DVD player and PC coming in through the VGA input and since they synch at different signals- the DVD player is analog YPbPr and the PC is analog RGB they each have different settings under the Cinema, User1 and User2 picture modes as well. Great flexibility.

Not sure about the color uniformity question, I think mine is very good on that when I look at a pretty solid color such as all blue sky or all green football field.

Interesting about the AE700. One of my buddies wants to get a projector and is adamant that it be 720p native. I was thinking of steering him towards that one from the very brief bit I've read. Perhaps I need to read more.

Cheers! Welcome!

hi gottahavapj
thanks for reply
i am from the uk and i read a lot of the uk av forums and they talk a lot about the panny 700 and vertical banding.Try the uk avs forums (sorry it won't let put link in as i have not posted enough yet)it seems to pop up over night .:p

Thanks for all the info. I will be re-adjusting the image later tonite.
So far, everything looks pretty good. The new C07 fits my screen and drop down perfectly. I can't wait to get it all calibrated to the 1600. I am hoping it will look even more awesome!

Mike

sarge, welcome to the H30 family.

I've been shuffling projectors around lately and last night I had the H30 going. Simply amazing how bright it is yet still keeps it's blacks and super color saturation. It's in a class of it's own. :)

Originally posted by gottahavapj
From what Mike said I don't know that the results would be this dramatic but would be interesting to try. the Austin Powers pic almost looks like they defocused it for the "before" shot the difference is so dramatic.

http://htpcnews.com/main.php?id=ffdshowdvd_1

Cheers!

--- FFDshow use can give results even more dramatic than the before/after from the link ;) . I will say it again ... as I have many times before ... if you are not using an HTPC then you are simply missing out on what these entry level PJ's can really do :D . Now an HTPC is not plug-n-play obviously but the extra effort is very much worth while and once you have it set-up it can be as simple to use as a stand-a-lone dvd player .


----------- Jason

Originally posted by DaGamePimp
--- FFDshow use can give results even more dramatic than the before/after from the link ;) . I will say it again ... as I have many times before ... if you are not using an HTPC then you are simply missing out on what these entry level PJ's can really do :D . Now an HTPC is not plug-n-play obviously but the extra effort is very much worth while and once you have it set-up it can be as simple to use as a stand-a-lone dvd player .
----------- Jason

How close can you get with maybe a Bravo D2, DVI out player? Maybe not as adjustable, but for those who really don't want to run a computer for HTPC, can the Bravo be a viable alternative?

Fleaman

Originally posted by fleaman
How close can you get with maybe a Bravo D2, DVI out player? Maybe not as adjustable, but for those who really don't want to run a computer for HTPC, can the Bravo be a viable alternative?

Fleaman

No current stand-a-lone dvd player can compete with a Tweaked HTPC for image quality , including the Up-Converting style players [ the H30 has no DVI input so only Component would be used with those players ] .

--- I would honestly say that even the best Stand-a-lone player could only hope to obtain maybe 80% of what a tweaked HTPC can do [ for most people that is certainly good enough and I am also certain that most have no idea what they are missing anyway ;) ] .


--------- Jason

I suspected you may be lurking around and would toss in your 2 cents on this. :) And your screenshots (for what they're worth) have backed your claim. I guess the biggest thing for me is that I suspect I have less skill and time for playing around with tweaking than MJolson and he hasn't been able to discern much benefit. Can the "rest of us" :) go read the Ffdshow thread, pick up some sample settings from someone with an H30, apply those and be most of the way there, topping a decent DVD player right off the bat?

Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!

P.S. When did you get the 4805 ISF'd and did it make as much diff as doing it on the H30?

Originally posted by gottahavapj
. I guess the biggest thing for me is that I suspect I have less skill and time for playing around with tweaking than MJolson and he hasn't been able to discern much benefit. Can the "rest of us" :) go read the Ffdshow thread, pick up some sample settings from someone with an H30, apply those and be most of the way there, topping a decent DVD player right off the bat?


Well, I probably won't give up my HTPC - like Jason said, there is a clear difference in PQ. The more I compare, the more I see it. I was just really trying to rationalize the economics of it.

Most of my frustrations have been with the Nvidia codec (TT2.02) - it's cutting edge so there's still some kinks to work out. With TT1.5 (and ZP with older codecs), using ffdshow is a snap. There's a good thread in the TT forum about ffdshow settings. If you use minimal features it's pretty easy to setup. What I often start with is Denoise3d HQ and resize to desktop resolution (800x600 in my case). From there you can try cranking up the resize and see if you notice the benefit.

One thing I have noticed going back and forth between HTPC and standalone is how much more "3d-like" the image is on the HTPC. There just seems to be more depth. That quality alone is probably enough to make me keep it.

Oh well, back to tweakin:)

A little more OT problem for me. I have had my H30 mounted for a while and have a question about the remote. Has anyone been able to program the remote into either a learning all-in-one remote or more importantly into an HTPC?

I'm trying to get Girder or Meedio Housebot to learn the power button most importantly so that I can control all of my HT from one tablet PC (including turning the projector on and off).

Has anyone been able to do something like this successfully or knows of any good links?

I should say that I've been able to get Girder and Housebot to learn the command, so there is communication there but when I try to use the program to emit the IR command the projector doesn't respond.

Just wanted to post that I watched Shrek2 the other night on the H30 and what a stunner it was. Simply amazing stuff

Shifty,

I have learned all codes via an USBUIRT using Xlobby. All codes transmit fine via Xlobby and can control H30 just as the remote does.

Fred

Fred do you mind telling me what the codes actually are for the Power button? I may try xlobby tonight to see what is going on? Do you know what the frequency settings are etc? I would love to copy the USB UIRT codes for your power button as a start.

Thanks,
Shifty

Shifty,

I'm at work, I'll try to get you the code tonight after I get home. It is Raw IR code from USBUIRT, hopefully this will work for you.

Fred

Well, after another 2 hours or so of messing around, it looks better. The green tint is gone and everything is better, but it is not as good as it was before I sent it in.

The colors seem less saturated and a bit lifeless. The bulb is new though with only 10 hours on it now, so maybe I will recalibrate at 100 again and see what happens.

Mike

Originally posted by Shock96
Well, after another 2 hours or so of messing around, it looks better. The green tint is gone and everything is better, but it is not as good as it was before I sent it in.

The colors seem less saturated and a bit lifeless. The bulb is new though with only 10 hours on it now, so maybe I will recalibrate at 100 again and see what happens.

Mike

This has happened to me after calibrating way off OTB H30's (2 of them).

Guitarman mentioned a calibration tip that worked for me: When in the advance adjustments (RGB), adjust only the RGB brightness, not the RGB contrast.

My units had much dithering and severe red push and while I adjusted all of that out with some serious minus numbers in the advanced menu, I found that all the colors were muted and lifeless. I re-calibrated trying to just stay in the advanced brightness controls and it worked for me! Colors were vibrant again.

Your H30 colors should be vibrant before and after the 100 hr mark. Supposedly the reds might be a little less pushed after the 100 mark, but can easily be adjusted out in calibrations.

Fleaman

Shifty,

Here is the uirt-raw code for the H30 On code:

F42R0342815780AB16401640164016401616151616401616151616151615 161516401615164016151616154016151615151616161615161516401615 16401640164016401640164016|077981575616

Hope this helps.
Fred

hi- i have been waiting for longer cables so i could experience the full beauty of seamless dvd and htpc operations and they finally came, i ripped open the package, did a little dance, and considered myself the coolest thing since sliced bread because i had the foresight to order a vid card that supports two monitors, (h30 and a sm. 15incher for mundane stuff) i threw in a dvd to check out the improvement on the 1600 and it was great, things actually jumped out w/ ps, much better then s-cable, a warm feeling in my belly, i flicked on the htpc and to my surprise the h30 has only one vga out, did i know this at the time or ordering it, yes, did i know it at the time of ordering cables, yes... was this a momentary lapse or reason, yes... where do i go from here? i was looking into powered vga splitters and i am not happy about the high $$, i can get a regular 2 to 1 vga splitter cheap, will it degrade to picture much? are there any other things i need to look into? my htpc vid card acts as a switcher so do i really want a kvm box?- thx

Fred, thanks a lot. I actually went back home and played around with it and very bizarre-ly i got it to work. I can get the power button and the left, right, up, down keys to work but I can't for the life of me get the aspect ratio commands learned. Very weird, but the most important for me I guess is the power button so that I don't have to have that remote sitting around all the time.

did you find that some commands don't register/work while others do on the remote? I'm not actually using xlobby, but I'm using Housebot through USB UIRT as well.

Maybe you can PM the codes for some of the other buttons (such as the Select button) to see if it's a problem with Housebot learning the commands?

Thanks bud,
Shifty

I haven't had any trouble getting the Harmony 659 I bought from Mike to learn codes from the H30 remote. With the Harmony's- you select all your gear from a list on their website and most of the codes for the H30 work fine. There were some that I needed to "re-teach" it though.

I would not however wholeheartedly recommend this remote.

I haven't had a problem learning the H30 commands to any universal remote I've tried thus far. They are not an unusually high or low frequency.

If you say something in the forest and your wife isn't there to hear it- are you still wrong?

In my house, Yes. :D

darkthanatos-

I'm not sure I'm clear what you want to do after reading that a few times. Perhaps the dual monitor thing is throwing me off a bit. Are you looking for a way for both your DVD player and PC to share the same VGA input into the H30? And the other port on your video card goes to the 15" monitor?

Cheers!

My house too Mike :rolleyes: :)

I will give that a shot Fleaman. I think I made most of my adjustments in the Contrast section. I will set those back to zero and use brightness again.

I have been using DVE, is Avia a better tool for this?

Mike

gottohaveapj
Are you looking for a way for both your DVD player and PC to share the same VGA input into the H30?

yes, i cant stand walking over to the pj and pulling out the dvd vga adaptor or the htpc vga cable every time i want to change, can i just get a cheap 2 female into 1 male vga splitter nonpowered? or will it mess with picture quality? -thx

Originally posted by darkthanatos
gottohaveapj
Are you looking for a way for both your DVD player and PC to share the same VGA input into the H30?

yes, i cant stand walking over to the pj and pulling out the dvd vga adaptor or the htpc vga cable every time i want to change, can i just get a cheap 2 female into 1 male vga splitter nonpowered? or will it mess with picture quality? -thx


VGA switch-boxes work fine as long as your cable runs are not too long at each connection . All my cables are 5m or less and it works with no signal loss [ I even checked the output of the switch-box with a meter to see if I was losing any signal - same coming out as what's going in ;) ] . Actually my PC to switch-box cable is only 1m and the Component to VGA connection is only 1m as well , the 5m is the VGA cable from the switch-box to the PJ .


--------- Jason

Yep- full agreement here...

You can use a switchbox like this one- http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=506&sku=03364

You then plug the VGA-component adapter you got with the H30 directly into one of the two input ports and a component cable to your DVD player. Both of your VGA-VGA cables need to be M-M.

Cheers!

Originally posted by Shock96
I will give that a shot Fleaman. I think I made most of my adjustments in the Contrast section. I will set those back to zero and use brightness again.

I have been using DVE, is Avia a better tool for this?

Mike

I have both and DVE has a very, very bad menu system. It's just about almost all inaccessible from your remote style pointer. Took me a while to figure out that I have to manually use the chapter feature of my player to get to where I wanted to go.

I haven't had a chance to give Avia a workout yet, but many here seem to prefer it.

I'd say start with Avia as DVE is just plain hard to navigate...and I'm not the only one that says that.

After doing calibrations via DVE, I still found things were 'off', compared to my conventional TV which is just below my screen. So, I started calibrating my H30 with my TV on as a reference and ended up finding it was much easier for me to do it that way (with the TV on) and finally got the picture that I liked.

At some point I'll give Avia a go, just a little sick of all these calibrations for now.

Fleaman

Originally posted by Shock96
I will give that a shot Fleaman. I think I made most of my adjustments in the Contrast section. I will set those back to zero and use brightness again.

I have been using DVE, is Avia a better tool for this?

Mike

Michael Chen (TLV) :) told me he uses the larger gray step boxes, he says there's one in DVE with four steps similar to the Pluge five step pattern in Avia. Remember to seperate the brightness and contrast advanced adjustments. If you see a red/pink in the white & light gray you'll need to use the contrast RGB's.

Most likely your green is in the darkers boxes so you'll just need to do the brightness RGB's.

I'll echo that DVE is a pain to navigate. I was able to get some ability to navigate between the menu areas by using the "chapter" button on the DVD players remote. I was never able to just go straight to a test pattern without having to watch (and FF through) the whole section.

Cheers!

Went and bought Shrek2 for the kids at lunch today after the recommendations here and was looking forward to seeing the new "wower". Got everything set up, DVD was starting and was on the Dreamworks logo screen when- POP!!! :( :( :( Sorry kids- let me get the DVD player upstairs hooked up to the 19".

So lamp light is glowing bright orange, not much surprise there. I unplugged the unit thinking its worth another try by some miracle. After a 1/2 hour I plugged it back in- no lamp light at least. Powered up and after the color wheel spins up it waits for about 5 seconds and then the bulb makes a sound kind of like maracas for about 5 seconds then spins down. It did that 4 times and then it shuts down and the lamp light comes on. Little doubt what the issue is aye? I was just thinking (and jinxing myself) this last weekend about how good my image still looked with 925 hours on the bulb.

Is there any reason not to go ahead and order a new bulb tonight and perhaps get it here for the weekend? Do you suppose it's worth reporting to Optoma in case they want to take a look at it for premature failure? I probably deserve this for wishing premature bulb failure on Ryan :) Pricegrabber here I come.

Cheers!

What's the difference between the "Video" and "Cinema" settings? Thanks

That's bad news gotta, might as well go the quick and easy route and find a bulb. Why these have to be over $300 I'll never know. I mean $300+ on a $10,000 projector ok but that on the $1200 is nasty, no balance. Good luck on the LP hunt.

Video is tuned for TV, Cinema for Films.

I don't have HDTV, but I was just wondering, would the projector have to be calibrated differently for that? Is it still calibrated to D65? Would I use the video or cinema setting?

So after lurking and digging around for what seems like forever, I think I'm going to actually pull the trigger on my H30. The price they can be had for now is amazing. I wanted to verify a few things though.

The C07 bios moved the picture, if I am ceiling mounting the unit (inverted) will this move the picture closer to or away from the ceiling.

On the earlier bios I know that you couldn't open up a full size 4:3 screen, is this still the case with the new bios revisions? If so, a 4:3 screen would be cropped in the middle of where your normal 16:9 screen is?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Originally posted by SpenceSTL
So after lurking and digging around for what seems like forever, I think I'm going to actually pull the trigger on my H30. The price they can be had for now is amazing. I wanted to verify a few things though.

The C07 bios moved the picture, if I am ceiling mounting the unit (inverted) will this move the picture closer to or away from the ceiling.

On the earlier bios I know that you couldn't open up a full size 4:3 screen, is this still the case with the new bios revisions? If so, a 4:3 screen would be cropped in the middle of where your normal 16:9 screen is?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Atta way Spence...

If you have a 4:3 screen- C07 shows a 16:9 image at the top of the 4:3 screen. The bottom ~20% of the screen will be a black bar. With C05 (which I have) it will be opposite. That works better for me due to relatively high screen mount and low ceiling. So the direct answer to your question above is closer to the ceiling.

Full 4:3 panel is open on any H30 you'd be buying now as 05 and later took care of that.

Welcome!!

C07 drops 12" off the offset so the projector can be closer to the screen. Haven't tried C07 but maybe the center lens will be 8" from the top of the screen. It still has aspects for cropped 4.3 or full 800X600 4.3.

Another difference is, if you use a 4.3 screen the 16.9 image will fall at the top of the screen. What type screen do you plan 4.3 or 16.9?

I plan on using a 4:3 screen. I can't imagine losing all of the extra real estate when watching 4:3 material.

I'll be ceiling mounting it (8' ceilings) from about 12.5' away. I can mount screen/projector at whatever height I want, and will be going with maximum zoom, which at my distance should be about 98" Diag. in 16/9 and 107" in 4:3.

It is good to hear that I can use the full chip 4:3 now. That is one of my big selling points, as I still have a lot of 4:3 material.

I'm with you all the way on that selling point.