I few folks (myself included) have been looking for tweaks, service docs, & general info on the Sony WS510 & WS550 series sets... figured I'd start a thread and see if it has legs.

I hope it does because the couple of threads I started seeking tweaks for the 51WS550 I just got went nowhere. :(

I'm very interested as well. Wish I had something to contribute... :(

I'm keeping a diary of all the tweaks I make on this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=364902

It's a bit of a read, but you can just scroll down to the bottomr of the first message. I'll be adding the tweaks as I go.

bump...

Really disappointing response to this thread. It's as if we're the only 2 people who own these sets. :(

One problem has come up - from the get-go, I've had this nagging suspicion that there was something up with the aspect ratios because I only get black bars on DVD movies wider than 1.85:1. Digital-sourced programs like Finding Nemo and Once Upon A Time In Mexico are formated 1.78:1 (or 16:9 native) and would fill the screen, but 1.85 material also fills the screen.

I made up a diagram in Photoshop showing the 16:9 outline of the screen and where 1.85 and 2.35 SHOULD line up and it doesn't seem to be happening quite right. My suspicions continued when the blue-skinned girl in Padme's entourage at the beginning of AOTC was cut off the left side of the screen, so I did a test...

At the beginning of Underworld, the Death Dealers are on top of some buildings observing the street in the rain. Water drips off Kate's hand and she looks across to the other guy who has a camera. We cut to a POV shot of what he see thru the lens and there are grid marks, etc. visible which provide some useful landmarks.

Now, I took the DVD home and looked at that shot in PowerDVD and took a screen grab with Hypersnap-DX and printed it out. Because HypeDX doesn't compensate for the animorphic mastering, it's a little smooshed, but it shows the outside edges of the frame. In the lower-left are two diagonally stacked rectangles and on the lower-right is a readout "f: AUTO". Beyond these are ground-glass corner marks and a border that runs around the frame.

On my 51WS550 being driven by a Zenith XBV342 DVD/VCR combo via component cables, the left side of the screen cuts along the left edge of the top rectangle and the right side crops the lettering down to read "f: AU". I calculate that approx. 10% of the width is getting lost. WTF?!?!?

What's the fix for this? This can't be normal, can it? HELP!!!!

Also, I poked around the Service Mode for about 10 minutes and could find the friggin' Red Push (AXIS) setting. How the hell do I set this. Step-by-step for non-tech instructions would be greatly appreciated.

TIA!

Hey Dirk, I'm seeing similar (but nowhere as drastic) overscanning on various sources, and it seems to differ depending on the zoom mode. Just like the 64 point convergence; h-pos, h-cen, v-pos, and v-cen have different values per zoom mode, which then effect the 64 point convergence.

I'm heading home soon, so I'm going to try and pick up a copy of underworld (wanted it anyway) and I have AOTC already, so I'll compare the same scenes you described above and let you know.

One thing I forgot to mention is that if you cycle thru the Zoom modes, the edges do NOT reappear. If you switch to Normal, you get the same edge cropping at the point where the grey side bars are.

Pick up Underworld from Blockbuster tonight. They're having a sale on their used stuff. It was a pretty good flick - some flaws and whatnot - but it looks good and was an honest try at livening up the werewolf and vampire genres.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
One thing I forgot to mention is that if you cycle thru the Zoom modes, the edges do NOT reappear. If you switch to Normal, you get the same edge cropping at the point where the grey side bars are.

Pick up Underworld from Blockbuster tonight. They're having a sale on their used stuff. It was a pretty good flick - some flaws and whatnot - but it looks good and was an honest try at livening up the werewolf and vampire genres.

hmm.. that almost sounds like the cropping is being done before the signal is sent. I'll try it in the xbox, then the ps2, htpc, and maybe I'll pick up a cheapie prog dvd player at the store too...

ok, I have some results for you Dirk:

I think it's something in the outout. I've been able to duplicate the issue, but only to a lesser degree.

I ended up not picking up a copy of underworld just yet, I've got a bit of a cold (am home today sick :<) and just didn't feel like going to the store on the way home.

I was, however, able to verify with AOTC that I get a slight cutoff of the left edge of the total video signal, and it differs per dvd player I used.

Using the xbox, I brought up the test patterns and in normal and full mode both, I see the missing left hand side beyond the anamorphic outer boundary. The same amount seems to be cropped in both modes.

Additionally, I brought up the same screen with my ps2 and I had just a little more removed, by about 1-2% I'd say.

I then brought up the scene you're referring to in AOTC, and on my display the blue girl is visible, albeit half cutout.

let me post the pics I took and see how they compare.

here's the pic from the xbox version. I know it looks less saturated, but this is really a better picture than the ps2 puts out. (other than the blacker blacks, the ps2 seems to introduce black crush...)

additionally, I took the same dvd to my other xbox on an older panasonic 32" and I got the same output as I did on the sony.

left hand side of the panny, you can see how the test lines are cut off just a little.

ok, and now I've got the test screen on the sony in normal mode. right hand side.

ok, and now the left hand side on the sony

so, since I'm getting different results based on the player, but they are consistent across different displays, I'd say that it's something in the way the players are putting out the signal.

Since I'm getting the necessary portion of the anamorphic (and other) test patterns, I'm not too concerned about it.

Are you getting more overscan than the results I've posted?

At this point it appears that I'm losing approximate 3% of the signal on the left-hand side with the xbox, and 5% with the ps2.

Have you tried a different displays?

I can imagine the type of scene you're describing from underworld, and in that circumstance it would be weird/annoying.

BTW- if you look at that scene on your HTPC is the blue girl totally imaged in the scene, or is she cropped a little?

(right now my htpc is in pieces, and my laptop doesn't have a dvd player.

Since the TV is at my g/f's and my PC is at my home, I won't be able to post a PC capture until tomorrow night, but what you're seeing with Blue Babe is what I'm seeing. My digital camera is (of course) at home, so I can't shoot our screen to match the capture I have at home. Salma Hayek is not returning my calls either, but that's another topic...

I borrowed the Xbox DVD remote from my boss and will check UW and AOTC tonight. Also, I finally found the AXIS settings and changed those all to 1, but the g/f complained that it look to "beige and bland" and demanded I switch it back. After she left the room, I quickly raced thru everything but the Xbox and set it all to 1 - let's see if she notices.:cool:

What other setting tweaks would you recommend? I've seen your other thread, but ya got anything more? Thanks!



According to this page (http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/sony/servicemenu_sony.html):

To adjust the Overscan

Set HSIZ and VSIZ to around 11-13. Use the Avia overscan screen to get it to under 5%.

Any wisdom to this? I don't have Avia or DVE discs and could this introduce distortion?

I have been waiting for a thread on these sets. I got the 51WS510 in December and have been very happy with it. I keep playing with the all video settings and really keep second guessing myself. I am scared to go into the set and try the Service Menu tweaks that have been suggested.
I have DirectTV and basic SD cable for local channels. All in all the PQ is good, but I know it could be better. I wish I had a better understanding of the different picture modes; standard, movie, pro and vivid. The only advantage I have found for vivid is during the daytime as my living room is very bright and vivid is truly the best setting.
Thanks for the advice and keep it coming. I agree that it is hard to believe more don't own these sets............


Mark

Hey guys I'm another lucky owner of the 51WS550. Just wanted to chime in on how to eliminate red push. In service mode (DISP, 5, VOL+, POWER) cycle through each menu category using numbers 2 and 5 until you get to 2150P-4. Then, using numbers 1 or 4 cycle through until you get to AXIS 2150P-4 7. Once there, change the value from 0 to 1 using number 3. Save the settings using MENU + ENTER and then POWER. You must do this per input (480i, 480p, 1080i.) Once done, you should have a near perfect picture. Pretty spiffy huh? :)

James

Yeah, but it's even spiffier when you press MUTING then ENTER to write the values into memory. ;)

Also, you have to write each resolution before switching to another input - i.e. 1080i content, save, switch to 720p station, save, 480i thing, save, rinse, repeat.

With the Xbox running thru the hi-def AV cables, the left side of the Underworld frame is unchanged, but the right side now shows "f: AUT", a pickup of one whole letter, but at the cost of a ugly, contrasty 480i picture with dark grey letterbox bars. <sigh> Still no sign of the whole frame. (UW on a NP GoVideo combo deck and 38" round CRT Toshiba cuts off even more, only showing "f: A".)

Reran the THX optimizer on the AXIS adjusted set and now flesh tones look too flat and seem to have a yellowish cast on some sources and reds, which never really bloomed to my eye, not seem flatter than normal. Hmmm...

Is there a listing somewhere of what the Service Mode settings are and how to access them? There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to how things are grouped, leaving me scrolling forever to find the stinkin' AXIS menu to set for the Xbox games and I never did locate HSIZ. Grrrr....would a logical setup have been so difficult?!?

Glad I found this thread. I currently has a Sony HS10 and I am looking

and researching the WS 510 and 550 in the 57 or 65 inch model. I sit

15 feet from the screen in a dark basement. Atlantic Tech. 170 speaker

sys. Sony 985 receiver. Toahiba DST 3000 STB. Any opinions about the

510 vs. the 550 would be nice.

Thanks,
Mikel

This thread - Initial Sony KDP-51WS550 Review (long...) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=294197) - was what prompted me to pull the trigger on my purchase of the same set (plus an unbeatable bargain I got for it!) and does a nice job of listing the differences, as the author says, "Long post in a nutshell is that the WS550 seems to be more than just a WS510 with a tuner and anti glare screen."

I PMed the author, but it appears that he either isn't receiving them or no longer participates here. Darn, cuz he had a lot of good tidbits, but I wanted more specifics on tweakage.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
To adjust the Overscan

Set HSIZ and VSIZ to around 11-13. Use the Avia overscan screen to get it to under 5%.

Any wisdom to this? I don't have Avia or DVE discs and could this introduce distortion?

[/edit]

Yeah, I've done that a little bit. I also had to adjust the hcen and vcen as a result (center value) and then I had to redo the 64 point convergence for each zoom mode.

REgarding the g/f factor on reducing the red push, keep in mind that the xbox doesn't seem to be the best of dvd players. It seems better than the ps2, but I would make your color adjustmens using an OTA hdtv signal if at all possible, because at that point you're really calibrating the set using 0 D/A conversions.

Also, the menu item bblk (I think, I'll confirm in a little bit) under the MID2 menu changes the grey bars to black or white. It's a 0-15 scale, and I think the default is 5.

If you want to change your grey bars to black you can, but beware of the burninator. I've got mine at the default, still trying to decide if I like it that way or what.

Originally posted by DirkBelig

...
Reran the THX optimizer on the AXIS adjusted set and now flesh tones look too flat and seem to have a yellowish cast on some sources and reds, which never really bloomed to my eye, not seem flatter than normal. Hmmm...


That's why I reduced my green push too. You can see the differece that different dvd players make in the picture though, the PS2 is way to oversaturated. the xbox looks okay. Lots of details, but not so great blacks.

I just have to get htpc together before I'll be really happy, I guess...


Is there a listing somewhere of what the Service Mode settings are and how to access them? There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to how things are grouped, leaving me scrolling forever to find the stinkin' AXIS menu to set for the Xbox games and I never did locate HSIZ. Grrrr....would a logical setup have been so difficult?!?

I wish. That's kinda why we're here though, right? There's a listing in the service manuals, but they cost ~$70 from sony.

I'm not sure why you sound like I'm using the Xbox as a DVD player when mentioning red push on Leno, but hokay....:confused:

On your other thread, you mention:

COLR
AXIS: 0 - 1 (reduced 'red push'). Had to make it in all modes
R-GR: 8 - 14 (evened out the reds a little)
G-YR: 6 - 8 (evened out the greens a little)

Are the last two settings global or per input, like AXIS? (I'm hoping for global.)

What would be a some good DVDs to check color accuracy. So many of today's films go thru a digital intermediate step to drastically smack the colors around, it's impossible to judge with stuff like LOTR (either) or Gone In 60 Seconds or Underworld. Post or PM me. Thanks!

The last two settings, R-GR and G-YR are global. Any inexpensive DVD player will be better than either an X-Box or a PS2. I have an X-Box and a PS2 as well, and neither is any good as a DVD player. I would rate the PS a zero out of ten and the X-Box a one out of ten.

If you use an X-Box or a PS2 as the source for setting R-GR, G-YR and the basic picture settings, be prepared to do it again once you get a device capable of reasonable output. The frequency response curve on those two pieces of crap is so bad, it throws the color balance off by a wide margin.

In addition there are component delay problems between the colors that smear everything with either of these two devices.

Thought you guys might find some use out of this (http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html)

I don't know if this tweak guide is common knowledge, but I didn't see any mention of it so I thought I'd post it.

I personally did all the suggested tweaks to my KP57WS510 that didn't involve physically opening up the set and saw a noticeable improvement in picture quality even with my newbie eyes.

I still can't see any convergence errors on the set when I look at the convergence setting in the service menu. Maybe my eyes are just untrained... or is it that the Sony CRTs well-converged out of the box?

Chris

Can someone tell me if the built-in tuner for the WS550 recieves unscrambled digital cable or does it only handle OTA?

Originally posted by uzun
Any inexpensive DVD player will be better than either an X-Box or a PS2. I have an X-Box and a PS2 as well, and neither is any good as a DVD player. I would rate the PS a zero out of ten and the X-Box a one out of ten.

If you use an X-Box or a PS2 as the source for setting R-GR, G-YR and the basic picture settings, be prepared to do it again once you get a device capable of reasonable output. The frequency response curve on those two pieces of crap is so bad, it throws the color balance off by a wide margin. So we don't expend any more time on the "Xbox as DVD source" (non-)issue, let me restate what I posted initially:

On my 51WS550 being driven by a Zenith XBV342 DVD/VCR combo via component cables,

The only reason I tried the Xbox was to see if there was an issue with the Zenith player being the problem. The NP GoVideo that we had at first had the left side of the THX 16:9 box off the left side and seeing that switching Underworld to the Xbox revealed a bit more of the right side indicates that mileage varies according to the source hardware, but why, I guess, is that happening?

Watching TV last night, the yellow skin tones really bugged me, but when I backed the hue setting down a bit, the cast of "Friends" started looking rather magenta-ish, so I had to bump hue and color up a notch and it looked OK. DSS stuff looked a tad iffy, but "CSI" (OTA HD) looked really good. When "ER" came on (also HD), I looked at it on the other TV (the 38" regular Toshiba) in the house and thought it looked bright like a TV show. Returning to the Sony, the picture looked darker, but more "movie-like". Weird.

As I've mentioned before (may've been another thread), this is my first experience with big-screen, RP and HD televisions and it's been weirding me out somewhat. A friend told me that I was gonna have to get used to it, cuz it's not the same. I guess so - but, I'd like it right, ya know?

When "ER" came on (also HD), I looked at it on the other TV (the 38" regular Toshiba) in the house and thought it looked bright like a TV show. Returning to the Sony, the picture looked darker, but more "movie-like". Weird.
If I'm not mistaken, I think "ER" is supposed to look more like a movie so it looks like your Sony is giving you the more "correct" picture. I don't know what to say when it comes down to the skin tones that you're talking about... I have a WS510 and I haven't run into any problems. You may want to tweak your TV a bit following the guide I linked to above. I found that I got a more consistent picture afterwards...

Chris, glad you found that guide useful. I know I found it really helped my set. It's coming up to a year since I bought my set so I should probably start to think about cleaning the CRTs. If I have it apart for that I imagine I'll give the internal focus adjustments a try as well.

Yeesh....I finally am home and remembered to post the picture illustrating what I've been talking about with regards to how much image is getting cut off in Underworld. (Forgot to bring AOTC home, but this'll do for now.)

This is the frame and the pink lines are what my WS550 is showing off the Zenith player and the green line shows the Xbox's right-side cut line. I can't locate the scene like this, but in Cowboy Bebop The Movie, I noticed a shot where someone was cut off because they were in that right margin - not cool.

3.6% on the left and 5.5% of the right is missing. I've seen things around that make it seem like 5% overscan is nominal - is it?

One more question: Is there any way to exit Service Mode with powering the TV off, than on?

Just received my new 57WS550 this past saturday. Being my first big screen and hdtv I'm really impressed with how good it looks. After doing the AXIS tweak in the service menu and going through DVE the PQ, imo, looks really nice. I watched the academy awards last night and law and order, both in HD, and was really impressed. Especially the Oscars, it looked awesome.

Hopefully this thread stays alive and people post some good tweaks to make our tv's look even better. :D

Went into Service Mode and adjusted the DEF3 HSIZ setting from 18 to 8 and got almost all of the edges onto the screen, but it introduced a wicked football-shaped bowing to the horizontal boundries of the image and knocked convergence out of whack. Changing DEF1 VSIZ from 13 all the way to 0 flattened the image, but didn't correct the bowing or convergence issues. Didn't save the changes - status quo.

I've brought home AOTC, so a capture of the blue-skinned girl frame is forthcoming.

Watching the Oscars last night in HD was right spiffy. Biggest surprise was that where Angelina Jolie had lasered off "Billy Bob" it was clearly visible, whereas they must've been fixing that in magazine photos, I've never seen it like that before.

As shown in Buji's photo (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&attachmentid=19470), our Windex-hued gal only rates her left eye in the eyes of our Sonys, so take a look at the attachment here to see what you've been missing.

Hello, excuse me if this has been asked before.
I have recently purchased the 46wt510, but the picture quality is troubling. I have directtv, and the picture is good on some stations, usally the higher numbers, but is very poor on the local broadcast stations, very blurry. Also when watching sports on local broadcast or espn, the grass looks very pixelated (sp?)
The local channels are being received fromt he directtv box (hughes directors series) using s-video.
When I watch a dvd, the picture is very good, especially movies like "Saving Nemo". The dvd's play through a playstation2, using svideo also.
Note, I have calibrated the set using the sound&vision disc.
Any help or adivce is welcomed
Thanks
(sorry for any spelling errors)

I returned a KP51ws510 which had a great picture for the 57 inch model. The problem I have with the 57 inch is the corners are darker than the rest of the screen, most noticable when the screen is very bright. Is this normal for larger RPTV's? I did not notice this on the 51 inch.

I'm just curious, but what do all you guys have your Brightness, Picture, Contrast, and Color settings set to?

Do you guys use a certain mode (pro, movie) depending on what you're watching (HDTV, SD, DVD, etc.).

I'm pretty new to RPTVs and am just trying to get a feel for how other users are setting things up. I have the 550 model so I guess I'm probably more interested in users with that model as opposed to the 510. Thanks.

In a neat "Could my life suck any harder?" sort of way, I was watching a movie last night when a saw that a bug (small moth or something) had landed on the screen. When I went to shoo it off, I was horrified to discover that it was on the INSIDE and most likely resting on one of the CRTs!!!! OMFG WTF?!?!?!?

Looking at the back of the set, I now notice that there are plenty of sizable vent holes at the bottom by the I/O block, so how much more crap can infiltrate, I wonder?

Also, anyone got a fix for the overscanning problems illustrated above. The 30-day return window is now closed, so a non-costly fix would be appreciated. Thanks.

I highly doubt the moth is on the CRT itself. It would be blocking a significant portion of the picture. If you mistakenly thought it was on the outside of the screen, then it's far more likely it was just sitting on the INSIDE of the screen.

Either way, I've read on a different thread that a good way to lure such uninvited guests out of your set is to turn off the set and all lights except for a lone incandescent bulb in the room. The Moth or other insect is likely to come out of the set to fly around the new light source.

Looking at your previous post where you compared two pictures, I'm quite certain that overscan is not your problem. You're missing a very large portion of the image - far more than overscan usually accounts for. I'm not sure what the problem is, but it doesn't seem like overscan to me.

When I tapped on the screen, it wobbled, but the shadow remained constant and around the shadow was fringed in red and blue, so I'm guessing it was parked on the green gun.

If it's not overscan, what is it? As I posted, I tried tinkering with the HSIZ setting and it reclaimed a lot of the missing bits.

I've read that some DVD players don't output the full screen. There is a resolution test on AVIA that shows you what portions of the screen your player is cutting off. You might want to check that out as well.

yeah, signal output, or 'cropping' is discussed here:
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_3/dvd-benchmark-introduction-9-2000.html

...as well as a ton of other useful info.

Dirk: what do you get when you connect the zenith to another TV?

They do specifically say somewhere in that article that software based DVD players and computer DVD players don't every have cropping issues because they don't have to adhere to certain timing requirements.

Other than that, it seems that the amount of cropping is a performance factor that varies between players AND sets.

It really reminds you that this is still all analog stuff. (from the player on out...)

Do any of you guys know what's different between 'Movie' mode and 'Standard' mode? I have everything set the same for each of them (brightness, picture, etc.) but Stardard seems a bit 'brighter'. Any thoughts?

Movie has some things like SVM (scanning velocity modulation) set to more sane settings.

For the WS550 sets, SVM is a separate setting in the regular picture menu, you can set it to any level you like in any of the settings.

On the 500 (and I assume 510) the SVM is a service mode item that is disabled in Pro and Movie modes.

If SVM is a user menu item on the 550 the I'm sure there are other service menu items that are enabled/disabled for Movie vs. Standard on the 550... not sure off hand what they would be though... red push, perhaps?

Hey guys. I've got Sony replacing my 40XBR for defects. It's taken a year to get this done and I don't want to screw it up. They are sending me a 51ws550. My local store is willing to take the 550 in exchange for a 2004 mits. My problem is this: I can't find anywhere to demo the particular mits that would be replacing the 550. So I need you guys to tell me why you picked the sony over a Mits. Sell me on the sony 550, PLEASE. There HAS to be something you guys saw on the mits that kept you away, if so please share your thoughts. Thanks guys,

Originally posted by woodrow
Hey guys. I've got Sony replacing my 40XBR for defects. It's taken a year to get this done and I don't want to screw it up. They are sending me a 51ws550. My local store is willing to take the 550 in exchange for a 2004 mits. My problem is this: I can't find anywhere to demo the particular mits that would be replacing the 550. So I need you guys to tell me why you picked the sony over a Mits. Sell me on the sony 550, PLEASE. There HAS to be something you guys saw on the mits that kept you away, if so please share your thoughts. Thanks guys,

I got the Sony over the Mits, because OOTB it looked better PQ-wise and also had a much better viewing angle (doesn't get as dark quickly like the Mits does, very dark and narrow sweet spot compared to the Sony imho). If viewing angle is not a concern of yours then either would be an excellent choice imo.

Thanks NorrinRad. I noticed this too when comparing the 550 to another Mits. I also could see some kind of video noise in reds with the mits I saw. Wasn't there on the Sony with the same signal. At several stores I could see some kind of video noise in the mits as well, especially in the reds. Anyone else see this? I've got 12 days to decide and I'm leaning Sony 550.

I bought a 550 because I got a really good deal on it and because I could hardly find anything bad about the tv. This is my first HDTV and I've got to say that i'm really impressed with it. SD quality imo, is decent. DVD viewing is excellent, especially when watching a movie like Monsters Inc. And of course HDTV is really good. Playing ninja gaiden on my friends xbox even looks really good.

My only qualm is sometimes certain dark scenes seem to dark or certain black clothing seems to dark. Like it's kind of hard to pick to see detail in clothing or in dark scenes. This doesn't happen a lot, but tends to happen more when watching SD tv.

Overall though, i'm really happy with my purchase and am sure you'd be happy with yours. :)

Originally posted by DirkBelig
I was horrified to discover that it was on the INSIDE and m
ost likely resting on one of the CRTs!!!! OMFG WTF?!?!?!?

I wouldn't worry too much about the bug. I had the same experience when I saw a fairly large spider crawling up the screen of my 51HW40. Turned out that he was on the inside of screen. Saw him a couple of times after that and then he disappered for good. Probably dead and shriveled somewhere inside of the cabinet.

This is a helpful thread. I've had my 51HW40 for 2 1/2 years and it still looks great.

I had an ISF do mine last year, and it looked 1000% better. Aside from adjusting the geometry, focus and convergence, I think the best tweaks overall were draping the inside of the cabinet with black cloth (to prevent interior reflections), and removing that horrible glare screen (although you don't want to take it off if you have children, etc., who might touch the screen.)

The Sonys have taken a lot of criticism because of the flickering CRTs that showed up in a number of units. I've never had that problem and have been extremely pleased with my set.

My 51WS550 was delivered yesterday. Went through all sorts of decision trees with different sets, decided that this one was the best for my situation. Got a fantastic price from CC(~seventeen).
Anyway , the picture OTB was very nice. The only thing that I have done was to get it out of torch mode on all picture modes , and ran the flash focus. I plan to get the DVE or Avia and do a basic tuneup. I currently have DirecTv and the Sd looks pretty good. I hooked up an indoor RCA UHF antenna and got the local PBS station in HD and was very impressed. I have ordered the Winegard SquareShooter and it should be here next week. I watched a DVD on my el-cheapo DVD player and it looked great. I have order one of the Norcent DP501 DVD sets which upconverts to 1080i and I hope my results are as good as some of the other reports that I have heard. Please the tweaks tips coming as I am planning to do basic tweaking on mine initially and get an ISF cal in a few weeks.

JW

Congrats. I have had mine for just over a month now and it is some of the best money I have ever spent. I can't even stand to watch my 32" digital set anymore.

I'd first kinda noticed this when I was running the 16:9 test from the THX Optimizer, but didn't nail down what was happening until last night - the set doesn't seem to automatically catch anamorphic properly.

The pattern looked a little egg-shaped - squeezed vertically - but if I cycled the Zoom mode button, first switching it to Normal then back to Full, the circle became properly round.

Then the other night I was watching Logan's Run and it struck me that people looked squeezed and after cycling, not only did it look OK, but the letterbox bars were noticeable wider, so last night I put it to the test.

Using the From Dusk Till Dawn CE disc, after switching to progressive DVD feeding Video 5 via component from the DSS input (S-Video - TV set to automatically Wide Zoom 4:3 content) the movie had letterbox bands of 1-1/2" on top and 1-3/4" on the bottom. (Measurements on a 51" set - movie is 2.35:1 IIRC.) After cycling the Zoom modes, the bands increased by a full inch - to 2-1/2" and 2-3/4" respectively - and will retain properly scaling UNLESS you switch back to a 4:3 signal source. After switching inputs, you'll have to reset the proper Full mode display on the DVD.

WTF is that about?

I am in the service menu for my 57ws550, but am having trouble navigating. For instance, I see references to go to 2150P-4, but as I toggle through 2 and 5 I see nothing resembling this code. For instance, this is what I am looking at right now:


COMB 0 8 SERVICE
NSS HD FULL DTV
1080





NVMO: G NVM1: G

Any help would be appreciated

Originally posted by wilked
I am in the service menu for my 57ws550, but am having trouble navigating. For instance, I see references to go to 2150P-4, but as I toggle through 2 and 5 I see nothing resembling this code. For instance, this is what I am looking at right now:


COMB 0 8 SERVICE
NSS HD FULL DTV
1080





NVMO: G NVM1: G

Any help would be appreciated

Yup, that confused me too for a bit. I think on the 550's they named the categories instead of giving it a cryptic menu id. For example, I think the category above you're referring to is the CLTY category on the 550. Instead of looking for the category, look for the item, like UVML, AXIS, etc. as they are still listed that way on the 550s. It will take longer since you're using the 1 or 4 buttons, but you'll find it eventually. Most of your major PQ settings (other than convergence, overscan, pincushion, etc.) will come from the COLR and CLTY categories anyways, so it should be Ok.

Thanks Norrin

I have the 57 inch model, great TV, PQ out of the box is unbelievable. As far as the picture modes, Pro and Movie are the only ones worth using, unless of course, you go into the Service menu and perform the "Mother of all tweaks" which basically eliminates SVM and makes them all comparable.
The other thing I suggest is removing that useless Glare screen, you can do it yourself and you won't believe the difference it makes.

If it's applicable to the KP-46WT500 I would like to remove the glare screen as well... is there a document or guide about how to do this correctly?

This is how I removed mine, but its the KP57WS510, so not sure if its applicable, but someone must of removed the screen from your model

Originally posted by gallobluechip
The other thing I suggest is removing that useless Glare screen, you can do it yourself and you won't believe the difference it makes. Um, what exactly is the difference we won't believe? I assume it's some sort of improvement, but it's hard to tell from the incomplete and vague wording.

The Difference is you can watch in Blazing Sunlight or in a room full of Lights directly in front of the screen and you won't see even one reflection anywhere. You can have Open windows behind your viewing space, flood lights, whatever, and you won't see them. If you've ever seen the Glare problems on some of the RPTV's, you'll know what I mean. If you haven't, then its hard to describe, Have a nice day!!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by gallobluechip
The Difference is you can watch in Blazing Sunlight or in a room full of Lights directly in front of the screen and you won't see even one reflection anywhere. You can have Open windows behind your viewing space, flood lights, whatever, and you won't see them. If you've ever seen the Glare problems on some of the RPTV's, you'll know what I mean. If you haven't, then its hard to describe, Have a nice day!!!!!!!!!

Why do the even have the screen if removing it is so much better?

The WS550 has a different anti-glare screen than the WS510, so I guess I hadn't noticed any severe glare problems.

When I was looking at the Pioneer 643, the screen looked like a mirror to me and that factored against it, among other things.

Originally posted by Gymrat123
Why do the even have the screen if removing it is so much better?

It's my understanding that the screen is a protective cover for the actual projection screen. The projection screen is comparatively fragile and more difficult to clean, while the protective screen, being the shiney surface it is, cleans easily and is somewhat more robust. It's a shame they had to make it that reflective though.

Exactly right, it protects against kids and pets, lol, but if you don't have any of those, you don't need it at all.

On the WS550, in most product literature, "Antenna Level For DTV " is listed. Looking through the owners manual and the actual television menu's I find no mention of this feature...

I guess it may be the actual "Channel Reception Level meter" in the Digital Guide menu?

Or, is this an adjustable item?

Is this a built in feature of the integrated ATSC tuner?

Thanks,



Video Features:

3 D Digital Comb Filter

Antenna Level For DTV

Auto Channel Program

Auto Pedestal Clamp

Auto White Balance

Caption Vision (CC)

Originally posted by TS45
On the WS550, in most product literature, "Antenna Level For DTV " is listed. Looking through the owners manual and the actual television menu's I find no mention of this feature...

I'm guessing that they are referring to the digital signal strength meter in the dtv guide.

thanks, I agree

Originally posted by DirkBelig
[BAs shown in Buji's photo, our Windex-hued gal only rates her left eye in the eyes of our Sonys, so take a look at the attachment here to see what you've been missing. [/B]

I have a KP-46WT510 and use a 2+ year old Sony DVD-NC600 5 disc changer with it. I did a test with the AOTC DVD and experienced the same phenomenon. Actually worse. I can just barely see "blue girl's" eye. I did do an HPOS service menu adjustment shifting things to the left a bit, which accounts for some, but still there is still some serious image cropping going on. I have been wanting to replace my DVD player and with this in mind I am going to put image cropping up high on my list of priorities. I have been considering getting a Denon 910 as the Secrets gives it a passing score with image cropping and it really seems to be a pretty good player...and fits into my budget. Has anybody used a 910 with a late model Sony RPTV?

Originally posted by vmark
It's my understanding that the screen is a protective cover for the actual projection screen. The projection screen is comparatively fragile and more difficult to clean, while the protective screen, being the shiney surface it is, cleans easily and is somewhat more robust. It's a shame they had to make it that reflective though.

Is it possible to replace this screen with something less reflective? Or apply some sort of coating?

Not that I'm aware of. The usual solution is to just remove it completely. Not advisable if you have small children with dirty hands though.

I'm not brave enough to remove my screen, so I rely on my almost adequate lighting control.

Problem / issue

My optical out on the back of my 57ws550 does not 'click' in with my optical cable, but rather just sits inside it, making it very easy to fall out. This is not good. Anyone else have this issue, and know a fix? I do not think the problem lies in my cable

Originally posted by wilked
Problem / issue

My optical out on the back of my 57ws550 does not 'click' in with my optical cable, but rather just sits inside it, making it very easy to fall out. This is not good. Anyone else have this issue, and know a fix? I do not think the problem lies in my cable

Mine too, I looked at it closely, and it seems that the 'seat bump' which holds the optical cable in place isn't as big as some of my other devices. Additionally, the cable I was using's 'seat bump' wasn't as nicely defined as some of my other cables. I switched to a different cable to verify, and it works well, but isn't long enough of a cable. Since this is behind the tv, I don't worry about it too much.

There may be a good reason why sony devised it thus, the other day I switched from Dish to DirecTV, and in the process of running a new co-ax cable for the satellite tuner (the DirecTivo needs 2) the installer stepped on the optical cable and it popped right out. Because of the angle where they have the optical in on the back of the set, I wonder if they made it not so tight to prevent damage to the plug casing/input housing in such an event.

That, or it's just a silver lining on the cloud. :D

Originally posted by Buji

That, or it's just a silver lining on the cloud. :D

I think this is closer to the truth:D

So, has the verdict come in for the 510's?- do they really downconvert 720p to 480p?

Has anyone tapped into the expanded Memory Stick PRO? This appears to be the most full featured MS driver available in all the current models. It really has "expanded" capabilities.

Some of you may already know this but I like:

1. The capability to Zoom in on any portion of the picture, cool.

2. The ability to add an embedded background "Piano soundtrack" to any Memory Stick.

3. The ability to add your own music on your memory stick as it plays back!
Took me awhile to figure this out (OK, my son helped a lot). We:
A. downloaded "CD Ripper" for free.
B. ripped songs from various CD's and IMPORTANT, saved them as an MP3 file.
C. inserted our MS into our computers MS drive and copied over the ripped MP3, with title of song.
D. inserted MS into WS550 and went into the MS menu, wholla! The songs were listed and played during the slide show!!

(I even used an old 4mg. MS, placed 9 photo's on it but had to "down rez" the ripped song in the CD Ripper software menu, did not sound as good but still makes a neat Demo for the shop.)

5. Did hook-up TRV-730 camcorder to WS550 via IEEE1394 Firewire connection, it looked good, yet made me yearn for a truly Progressive or HD camcorder.

Thats about it for now, hope this is not "repeat" info!

Tom

If you could, please post your WS550 series "Build Date", "Assembled In" location and size (51,57 or 65) if possible, please?

Thanks, Tom

My 51-incher was built in Sept. 2003 in the USA.

The bug problem just took a turn for the worse! The other night, I noticed another moth had flown in and while it eventually left (and we've covered all the holes - all ~700 of them!!! - with tulle) I noticed that there is some sort of hair - likely cat fur - permanently marking the picture!!!

It projects as being about an inch long, halfway up the vertical axis and a third of the way over from the left edge - DEFINITELY NOT ignorable! It appears sharp (i.e. no color halos) so I'm guessing it's either on the screen it self or the mirror, as opposed to one of the CRTs.

How the fook do I clean this up. Does the screen come off by just undoing all the screws in the back of the perimeter or is it more involved than that? He'p!!!

I jumped on the ws550 wagon yesterday. will be getting my used 57ws550 on Friday. I decided on the ws550 after reading this message board...hope i wont be disappointed. LOL.
I got the floor model at circuit city for about $2K+free delivery. I also bought the performance warranty for 499.99. <Did i pay too much>?? Best Buy and sears both has the new one for >$2300. I know I can get it on the internet cheaper, but I'm more comfortable buying big items from B&M.
The new 57ws510 is $1849 (i think) at CC. But decided against it after reading the msg board.

Any inputs for a newbie?? TIA.

Anyone got advice/techniques for taking off the screen and cleaning the hair out? (You'd think the people who took off the glare screen would've chimed in by now.)

this forum will address alot of tweaks:

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/categories.php

I just got a 57ws510 to replace Toshiba 57H93, the picture out of the box is pretty good. But it takes about 5 seconds to see picture come up after turn on the TV, is it supposed to be that long? Toshiba only takes about 3 seconds. Toshiba's audio (using internal speaker only) sounds better than Sony's. Other than that, 57ws510 is pretty good, at least I won't see that white bar on the Toshiba anymore.

Yup, that sounds about right. My 65WS550 takes 5 seconds to turn on too. Kinda long, but I'm used it now.

Originally posted by Valentino
I jumped on the ws550 wagon yesterday. will be getting my used 57ws550 on Friday. I decided on the ws550 after reading this message board...hope i wont be disappointed. LOL.
I got the floor model at circuit city for about $2K+free delivery. I also bought the performance warranty for 499.99. <Did i pay too much>?? Best Buy and sears both has the new one for >$2300. I know I can get it on the internet cheaper, but I'm more comfortable buying big items from B&M.
The new 57ws510 is $1849 (i think) at CC. But decided against it after reading the msg board.

Any inputs for a newbie?? TIA.

Congratulations on your new HDTV purchase, which I'm sure you'll love. Since you're 57WS550 already has a built-in ATSC tuner I suggest purchasing the Zenith Silver-Sensor antenna for local OTA HD channels in your area. It's very cheap and is the FCC reference standard OTA HD antenna. This we you can show off your HDTV capabilities and drool over PBS HD (yup I said PBS). It should cost you no more than $40, but can be obtained online for $15-$25. Even if you get cable w/ HD, this option is so cheap and easy it's worth it.

Next, after your TV's break-in period of about 100 hrs. calibrate it using the wonderful DVE dvd (about $20). You can calibrate it right now, but may need to re-calibrate after the break-in period as that's when your TV will be at its peak performance by then (more detail and brightness, well just a tad due to the phosphors basically getting used to everything). Remember to turn the contrast down to about 30% and adjust brightness accordingly to reduce burn-in potential (the DVD will go over this).

After that, you should do (actually do them asap) some service menu tweaks like decreasing red push, turning off svm, doing manual convergence, softening the picture, reducing overscan (if needed, but 5% is ok), etc. Do a search on the username Buji and WS550 to get his specific thread on tweaks for the WS550 series of Sony RPCRTs, very informative. There are other threads too (can't remember, just search), but this is a good start.

Good luck and enjoy, be careful though, this will turn into an addiction (I gotta stop fiddling w/ my TV and just enjoy, but it's so fun ;p )

Another thing I noticed is that there is no numerical number to indicate brightness, contract level, etc. It's hard to write down the result after AVIA calibration, I guess one can count the number of vertical lines instead.

There is an option called DRC mode in the user video mode, does anyone know what it is? Does it mean Interlaced will display in 1080i and Progressive will display in 480p? It looks like 1080i signal can only be displayed as 1080i and 720p signal can only be displayed as 480p, does it mean everything else you can have the choice of either 1080i or 480p?

It seems like I can't keep sharpness low for SD input and have sharpness high for DVD input since those settings are global for every inputs. Do you guys have some solution for this?

Does the ws550 tweak also works for ws510? Thanks!

FYI, we tried using the RCA DVR10 HD recorder, this unit will not interface with the WS550 ilink interface. Read hear, page 6:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332302&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

C.Y.,

"It seems like I can't keep sharpness low for SD input and have sharpness high for DVD input since those settings are global for every inputs. Do you guys have some solution for this? "

I believe you will have to use the global settings, I have used the service mode, for some of the settings you must save a setting in the 1080i, 480p or 480i mode, not sure if the sharpness control will react this way in the service menu.

I like to use the STANDARD mode for 480i viewing (cable or antenna), then use the PRO mode for DVD. If your DVD player allows custom picture settings, you could leave say the STANDARD set for 480i, then tweak up the DVD player controls to bring them back to your needs.

Tom

Originally posted by TS45

C.Y.,

"It seems like I can't keep sharpness low for SD input and have sharpness high for DVD input since those settings are global for every inputs. Do you guys have some solution for this? "

I believe you will have to use the global settings, I have used the service mode, for some of the settings you must save a setting in the 1080i, 480p or 480i mode, not sure if the sharpness control will react this way in the service menu.

I like to use the STANDARD mode for 480i viewing (cable or antenna), then use the PRO mode for DVD. If your DVD player allows custom picture settings, you could leave say the STANDARD set for 480i, then tweak up the DVD player controls to bring them back to your needs.

Tom

That is my solution for now, I just use PRO mode for SD and MOVIE mode for DVD.

Is it true that PRO and MOVIE mode has SVM turned off by default and I need to go to service mode to turn it off for STANDARD and VIVID mode (this is ws510)? And each video mode(pro, movie, etc) has one SVM setting?

How about the red push setting? How many combinations I need to do in service menu in order to reduce it for all modes? Does each video mode(pro, movie, etc) has one red push setting? Or does each signal type (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) has one red push setting? Or does each A/V input (TV, Video1 to video 7) has one red push setting? Or it is the combination of those?

I am still not sure about the DRC option, do I assume it right that it is only used for 480i signal to be converted to either 480p or 1080i?

Wide mode option is only available for 480p and 480i signals, if DVD send in 480p signal with 16:9 aspect ratio, which mode should I use so there is no stretch done? It seems Normal mode is still 4:3. Thanks!

Last night I tried to go to the service menu for the first time. I first turned on the TV, then I thought if I press DISP, 5, VOL+, POWER I would get into service menu, and of course the result was I turned off the TV. Then I realize I should do DISP, 5, VOL+, POWER when TV is off.

I only played with SVM (UVML) and Red Push (AXIS). I found out that each pic mode (vivid, pro, etc) has its own group of UVML settings. Each group has one UVML for TV input, one for Video1-4 input, one for Video 5-6 input and one for Video 7 input. The default UVML settings are 3,3,2,2 for Vivid, 2,2,2,2 for Standard, 1,1,1,1 for Movie and 0,0,0,0 for Pro mode. I only changed settings in Movie mode from 1 to 0 by going through TV, Video1, Video5 and Video7. When I did this, I only have 480i signal coming from TV input.

It also looks like every pic mode has the same group of settings for AXIS. One for TV and Video1-4, one for Video5-6, and one for Video7. All three AXIS default to 0 and I changed all three to 1 by going through TV, Video5 and Video7. Currently I only have 480i signal goes to TV and Video1 input, I guess I should try to see if 480p and 1080i (and 720p?) signals will have different settings for AXIS. If it does, then I don't know whose AXIS setting one will make if no signal comes to that input (say Video5) while one changes AXIS on Video5-6?

On the WS550 I changed the AXIS from 0 to 1 on 1080i, 480p and 480i. Made a nice improvement for redpush without even adjusting the color decoders, will spend more time there later.

On the Ws510 line, for UVML we always go in and adjust all to 0. The TV's always come in as 3-vivid,2-standard, 1-movie, 0-pro.

2150P-3 1 0 (from 3-vivid,2-standard, 1-movie)
UVML


Update on the DVR10, tried this on our March 04 build 57WS550, still no go.



Tom

2 Questions:

1. Is there a "zoom" feature or something to compensate for the overscan discussed waaaaaaaaay upthread or must I just kiss off 10% of my picture?

B. Anyone gonna answer the question on cleaning the hair out?

Thank you.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
2 Questions:

1. Is there a "zoom" feature or something to compensate for the overscan discussed waaaaaaaaay upthread or must I just kiss off 10% of my picture?

B. Anyone gonna answer the question on cleaning the hair out?

Thank you.


I thought you already know how to do it through VSIZ and HSIZ. I will play around with it tonight, right now I have about 4.5% overscan on both side and 8% on top and bottom.

Thats what I used, VSIZ and HSIZ, then centered each.

This is a link for calibration of the WS500 series, some good basic technique that may apply to the WS 510 +550:

http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html

Originally posted by TS45
Thats what I used, VSIZ and HSIZ, then centered each.

This is a link for calibration of the WS500 series, some good basic technique that may apply to the WS 510 +550:

http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html

I'd like to try out the electrostatic focus and optical focus, but how to turn CRT into focus is it like turning a camera lens into focus?

It looks like I need to do electrostatic focus, then optical focus, then another electrostatic focus?

About the soft-look adjustment, is it a good thing to have soft-look? What does it mean anyway? I might try it to see if I like it or not.

Originally posted by Valentino
I jumped on the ws550 wagon yesterday. will be getting my used 57ws550 on Friday. I decided on the ws550 after reading this message board...hope i wont be disappointed. LOL.
I got the floor model at circuit city for about $2K+free delivery. I also bought the performance warranty for 499.99. <Did i pay too much>?? Best Buy and sears both has the new one for >$2300. I know I can get it on the internet cheaper, but I'm more comfortable buying big items from B&M.
The new 57ws510 is $1849 (i think) at CC. But decided against it after reading the msg board.

Any inputs for a newbie?? TIA.

Don't wanna bust your bubble, but a good piece of advice for newbies is to NEVER, EVER buy a floor model RPTV. They are often set to torch settings and are generally abused. It's fine to buy floor model receivers, DVD players, etc., but I would never buy a floor model RPTV. If the set has only been on the floor for a couple days, it might be okay, but I probably still wouldn't buy one that way.

Originally posted by C.Y.
Another thing I noticed is that there is no numerical number to indicate brightness, contract level, etc. It's hard to write down the result after AVIA calibration, I guess one can count the number of vertical lines instead.

That's what I did (counted the number of marks, wrote down, and saved that piece of paper).

There is an option called DRC mode in the user video mode, does anyone know what it is? Does it mean Interlaced will display in 1080i and Progressive will display in 480p? It looks like 1080i signal can only be displayed as 1080i and 720p signal can only be displayed as 480p, does it mean everything else you can have the choice of either 1080i or 480p?

I believe DRC is only active with 480i source material. As far as what is actually going on from a technical standpoint is a very complicated and controversial matter. A very reliable source has stated that Sony RPTV's NEVER display 480p.....all is converted to 960i. Interlaced DRC is 960i. Progressive DRC is 960i made to look like 480p. And Cinemotion DRC is 960i made to look like 480p with the addition of 3:2 pulldown detection.

It seems like I can't keep sharpness low for SD input and have sharpness high for DVD input since those settings are global for every inputs. Do you guys have some solution for this?

A simple method is to use one pic mode for SD and another for DVD. Also, sharpness can be adjusted in service menu item C-2103_1 SHAP. According to the service menu a separate parameter can be set for each of the following: RF, Video 1-4, Video 5-6, S-Video, & Video 7. I generally watch my analog cable channels through RF and digital cable channels through S-Video, so I calibrated each equally using this method.

Originally posted by C.Y. Currently I only have 480i signal goes to TV and Video1 input, I guess I should try to see if 480p and 1080i (and 720p?) signals will have different settings for AXIS. If it does, then I don't know whose AXIS setting one will make if no signal comes to that input (say Video5) while one changes AXIS on Video5-6? [/B]

You have to have the appropriate signal hooked up to be able to change it in the service menu. If nothing is hooked up to Video 5 & 6, I am almost positive you will be changing the value for 480i only. If you hooked up 480p to Video 5 or 6, you would then have to switch AXIS for that also. And again for 1080i.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
2 Questions:

1. Is there a "zoom" feature or something to compensate for the overscan discussed waaaaaaaaay upthread or must I just kiss off 10% of my picture?

Thank you.

As others said, HSIZ and VSIZ will work, however, only mild adjustments can be made with those or you'll throw your geometry out of whack.

Originally posted by Chad T
As others said, HSIZ and VSIZ will work, however, only mild adjustments can be made with those or you'll throw your geometry out of whack.

Ain't that the truth!:D

After having the KP-51HW40 for a year and the Sony service man out twice and not being able to fix my covergence and geometry issues, Sony sent me the WS510 as a replacement. Now I'm a little familiar with the service menu and dabbled a little with the old set, though I didn't cause the set's problems. An ISF calibrator alerted me to a possible faulty component issue and refused to do the set until fixed. Thus began my quest for a fix from Sony which ended up with the sets replacement. At this point I don't feel confident enough to mess around too much with this new set since the picture looks pretty good already, but I'd like to still improve things. Anyway, I've calibrated the new set with DVE and changed the AXIS setting to 1 to get rid of some the red push that was evident. Overall though my set required little adjustment out of the box. Right now I'm noticeing the top two corners are bending down a little in all modes/sources and this bugs the hell out of me. Would anyone know the exact adjustment name(s) in the service menu I could change to maybe help rid this annoyance? Since I should wait about 6 mos. before getting it calibrated, I'd like to just fix this issue myself if it can be safely done. Thanks for any advice.

Originally posted by tuskenraider
. Right now I'm noticeing the top two corners are bending down a little in all modes/sources and this bugs the hell out of me. Would anyone know the exact adjustment name(s) in the service menu I could change to maybe help rid this annoyance? Since I should wait about 6 mos. before getting it calibrated, I'd like to just fix this issue myself if it can be safely done. Thanks for any advice.

Sounds like a geometry issue. You would need a grid to do this. For a temp fix, go into the service menu cat. PJE and cycle through the internal grids and mess around with the lines some. Play with it and see how it looks- just dont save it until you're happy with it!

Originally posted by Chad T
You have to have the appropriate signal hooked up to be able to change it in the service menu. If nothing is hooked up to Video 5 & 6, I am almost positive you will be changing the value for 480i only. If you hooked up 480p to Video 5 or 6, you would then have to switch AXIS for that also. And again for 1080i.

You are right, if there is no signal coming to an input, the AXIS change goes to 480i (you can see the on screen display as 480i), when a 480p signal is used, the on screen display changed to 480p and AXIS has another setting for 480p.

So the summary is there is one AXIS setting (480i) for tv and video 1-4 input, three AXIS settings (480i, 480p, 1080i) for video 5-6 input, and three AXIS settings (480i, 480p, 1080i) for video 7 input. so the total number of AXIS settings are (1+3+3) = 7.

For UVML settings, there is one UVML (480i) for tv, one UVML (480i) for video 1-4, three UVML (480i, 480p, 1080i) for video 5-6 and three UVML for video 7. Every four of pic modes has its own settings, so the total number of UVML settings are (1+1+3+3)*4 = 32.

Just ordered the KDP51WS550 today and should have it Wednesday. Trying to locate a DVE disk locally, but what other settings should I adjust that won't show up on DVE? I looked through this post and noticed that some things may void the warranty. What can I safely adjust and not worry about voiding the warranty? I didn't purchase any extended warranty from the store, so all I have to fall back on is the limited manufacture's warranty.

Thanks.

This may sound like a stupid question, but when viewing a widescreen DVD with a 51WS510, which wide mode and drc/cinemotion mode do you use? I'm getting a new DVD player tomorrow but my current old Samsung does at least recognize 16:9 TVs but when I have my TV set to "Normal" viewing mode and my DVD set to 16:9, the grey bars on the side still exist but the whole middle part is filled (no black bars). What is the proper DVD viewing mode on a WS510?

Thanks!

"Full" is the mode to watch 16:9 anamorphic material with.

I had the same question re: widescreen DVDs. I have the 57".

"Full" will provide the proper aspect ratio then, with the enhanced for widescreen tv dvds?

I was puzzled but had to laugh when I saw that the manual for my new Sony TV was flimsier compared to the manual for my new cellular phone!

Is there a proper, complete manual available for this teevee? or sony RP-HDTVs in general?

I found the manual that came with my the Sony KP-46WT500 was pretty complete. It didn't have service mode stuff in it (which I'd not expect there to be), but it had pretty much everything you'd want to know from a general user perspective.

I have the PDF of the service manual too, but there's nothing in there that your average consumer should know.

Perhaps the quality of the manual has decreased in the year since I bought my set. Are you sure it's not something like a "Quick Setup" guide? Perhaps the actual manual got lost in the hassle of shipping?

Originally posted by MathWiz579
This may sound like a stupid question, but when viewing a widescreen DVD with a 51WS510, which wide mode and drc/cinemotion mode do you use? I'm getting a new DVD player tomorrow but my current old Samsung does at least recognize 16:9 TVs but when I have my TV set to "Normal" viewing mode and my DVD set to 16:9, the grey bars on the side still exist but the whole middle part is filled (no black bars). What is the proper DVD viewing mode on a WS510?

Thanks!

Set DVD player to 16:9 and set TV to full mode for wide-screen format DVD.

DRC mode is only available for 480i source. Please check a couple of pages back, there is a explanation for DRC mode.

Originally posted by lancer1991
Just ordered the KDP51WS550 today and should have it Wednesday. Trying to locate a DVE disk locally, but what other settings should I adjust that won't show up on DVE? I looked through this post and noticed that some things may void the warranty. What can I safely adjust and not worry about voiding the warranty? I didn't purchase any extended warranty from the store, so all I have to fall back on is the limited manufacture's warranty.

Thanks.

I didn't quite get your questions.

Originally posted by vmark
I found the manual that came with my the Sony KP-46WT500 was pretty complete. It didn't have service mode stuff in it (which I'd not expect there to be), but it had pretty much everything you'd want to know from a general user perspective.

I have the PDF of the service manual too, but there's nothing in there that your average consumer should know.

Perhaps the quality of the manual has decreased in the year since I bought my set. Are you sure it's not something like a "Quick Setup" guide? Perhaps the actual manual got lost in the hassle of shipping?

Could you tell me where I can get a copy of that service manual PDF file? Thanks!

You can adjust any of the settings on the DVE disk (user menu settings) without worrying about your warranty. Technically, there are no settings in the Service menu that you can change without voiding your warranty - certain settings can damage your set permanently. So if you're really concerned about it, I'd be wary of making changes in there.

http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html has some tweaks that I did last night to my new TV that did noticeably improve regular channel picture, softening the picture itself and getting rid of most of the harsh edges. I did all the tweaks that did not include opening the TV itself. I also did not change a couple of the black settings becauses I found them to lighten up the picture too much.

Originally posted by vmark
"Full" is the mode to watch 16:9 anamorphic material with.

Exact same thing I told him on a local Milwaukee board lmao

Since I don't have the DVE disk yet and if I order it tonight (without paying an arm and a leg), I won't have it for 4 or 5 days, what are some of the basic settings I can do right off the bat to help combat any burn in issues?

Thanks MathWiz and Vmark for your responses.

Turn down the brightness and contrast to less than half... probably in the vicinity of 30% for each. Also, turn sharpness ALL the way down and creep it back up to where it looks good. I have mine at about 15% (set using AVIA). The sharpness won't decrease burn-in issues, but it will make your picture look MUCH better overall.

I have a 51WS510 that is a replacement for my flickering 51HW40. TV looked pretty good out of the box but there's some sort of convergence issue. When I watch any movies that have black bars, I can see blue on the top bar and red on the bottom. Right where the picture meets the black bar. This is really only a problem on 2.35:1 since anything lower usually just fills the screen. I have no problem changing some settings in the service menu but I've never been confortable with the procedure for setting convergence. I recall people have issues with flash focus after modifying convergence but that may have been a user issue.

If you have a DVD with the "THX Optimode" tool in the menu such as Finding Nemo, this will help set your basic controls while you await a calibration disc. Nemo is a good reference disc to have around anyway.

Originally posted by MathWiz579
http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html has some tweaks that I did last night to my new TV that did noticeably improve regular channel picture, softening the picture itself and getting rid of most of the harsh edges. I did all the tweaks that did not include opening the TV itself. I also did not change a couple of the black settings becauses I found them to lighten up the picture too much.

I did those tweaks a couple weeks ago. The way to access focus pots and CRT is different on my ws510. In order to remove the bottom front panel, one needs to remove 6 screws on the back of the front panel (3 screws on each side). The wires go to the touch pad are longer than the wire go to the video 2 input jacks, so after the front panel is removed, you can still let it stand on the ground and pivot to the left side so the center panel can be accessed. After removing the center panel, focus pots can be seen and static focus can be adjusted there. There is also a access opening right above the center panel that you can reach three CRTs, and adjust optical focus by loosen wing-nuts and turn (by holding wing-nut and move it along the slots) CRT into focus.

I didn't do re-register to Flash Focus, I am not sure how Flash Focus works and what impact it would have by re-register the convergence.

I also undo the changes made to TPHP and TPVP (center convergence grid), I found after I made change on TPHP and TPVP, in the user menu convergence screen, the cross won't appear in the center of bracket. I am not sure that is OK or not. Also Flash Focus seems off after changes made to TPHP and TPVP.

Originally posted by C.Y.
Also Flash Focus seems off after changes made to TPHP and TPVP.

That is because you did not re-register flash focus after tweaking. Go do manual convergence (or fine convergence in the service menu) and fix what needs to be fixed in all wide modes. Then, in the service menu, go to PJE and hit the FF button on the TV. Should say 'calibration ok' when it is done.

*make sure you re-reg FF when in FULL mode!!!*

Viola, you have just re registered your FF!

Originally posted by BlackbeardsSaint
That is because you did not re-register flash focus after tweaking. Go do manual convergence (or fine convergence in the service menu) and fix what needs to be fixed in all wide modes. Then, in the service menu, go to PJE and hit the FF button on the TV. Should say 'calibration ok' when it is done.

*make sure you re-reg FF when in FULL mode!!!*

Viola, you have just re registered your FF!

It seems that in user mode Normal and Full mode share the same FF convergence, Zoom and Wide Zoom mode share another FF convergence. Anyway, so I should do manual convergence for all four modes, then go to service menu PJE screen and switch to Full mode and hit FF button on TV, and re-register FF is done? How about FF for the other three modes, do they need to be re-registered?

Originally posted by C.Y.
It seems that in user mode Normal and Full mode share the same FF convergence, Zoom and Wide Zoom mode share another FF convergence. Anyway, so I should do manual convergence for all four modes, then go to service menu PJE screen and switch to Full mode and hit FF button on TV, and re-register FF is done? How about FF for the other three modes, do they need to be re-registered?

Have FULL mode on before you go into the service menu (just to keep yourself from hitting the wrong button and f'n up). You only need to register FF in FULL. Other than that, you are correct on everything!

I too will chime in with a request for information on removing the awful glare screen. I have a KP65WS510 and although the picture is great the glare is almost unbearable. I have a KP61HS10 which I restacked the glare screen. It looks great. I also have a Hitachi 65SWX20B whose glare screen is very much bearable. Even though I like the picture on the Sony better, I almost bought a (comparably priced) Mitsu because you can easily remove the screen but I gave in to the better picture.

Dino

I'd like to print out the glare screen removal instructions posted earlier in this thread, but the link seems to be dead. Anyone have a copy or a working link? Thanks!

Also, I was just curious as to how many WS550/WS510 owners have had their sets ISF calibrated and if they felt it was worth the money given the many tweaks that are available here and there. Of course, I'm not one to discount a proper grayscale calibration however.

Originally posted by jagz

Also, I was just curious as to how many WS550/WS510 owners have had their sets ISF calibrated and if they felt it was worth the money given the many tweaks that are available here and there. Of course, I'm not one to discount a proper grayscale calibration however.

I'll make a thread on it as soon as Eliab is done eith my set on the 28th.

I'll make a thread on it as soon as Eliab is done eith my set on the 28th.
Looking forward to it!
Keep us updated.

Originally posted by vmark
Turn down the brightness and contrast to less than half... probably in the vicinity of 30% for each. Also, turn sharpness ALL the way down and creep it back up to where it looks good. I have mine at about 15% (set using AVIA). The sharpness won't decrease burn-in issues, but it will make your picture look MUCH better overall.

I started going through DVE last night. Need to start it over because it's tough to pay attention to it when you're tired (unless it was the very detailed explanations it gives rather than a basic make the outside black bar disappear), but I did notice that the picture and contrast settings appeared to be greater than 30% after going through the first couple of steps on the disk.

Another thing I noticed is when the menu screen is up, some of the text is off the left and right sides of the screen. Also, when the box screen is up that shows the 5% cut off and 10%, I can see all of the line around the outer most box except at the bottom where the line is right on the extent of the screen.

Originally posted by lancer1991


Another thing I noticed is when the menu screen is up, some of the text is off the left and right sides of the screen. Also, when the box screen is up that shows the 5% cut off and 10%, I can see all of the line around the outer most box except at the bottom where the line is right on the extent of the screen.

Too much overscan.

Too much overscan.
How do I fix that, if at all. How about the brightness and contrast settings? Should they end up that high after going through the disk? The one thing I've noticed and don't like is that when someone is wearing dark clothing, there is no differentiation of anything. All I see is just black. What I mean is you can't tell where a jacket may button, or where the pants meet the jacket, etc.

Originally posted by lancer1991
How do I fix that, if at all. How about the brightness and contrast settings? Should they end up that high after going through the disk? The one thing I've noticed and don't like is that when someone is wearing dark clothing, there is no differentiation of anything. All I see is just black. What I mean is you can't tell where a jacket may button, or where the pants meet the jacket, etc.

Picture setting is for white level and it is the one you need to set low (say under 40%) to prevent burn-in. Brightness setting is for black level, you need to set it so the left-most black bar just disappears into the background in "DVD Pluge w/ Gray Scale" test. If it is set lower than that, you won't be able to see the different black level. Also if your DVD player has IRE settings, make sure it is set to use 0 IRE.

When you check overscan, make sure you are on Full or Normal mode to check it. If you are on wide zoom mode, it could show 5% on sides and 10% on top and bottom.

Adjust overscan with HSIZ and VSIZ in the service menu.

I have a Daewoo DVD player.

Any way to program the Sony remote to control this player (is there some default code that'll work)?

Thanks!

Contact sony through their website.

Also if your DVD player has IRE settings, make sure it is set to use 0 IRE.
My DVD player is an old Sony that is connected through S-video. I actually can't see the far left and right bars in the Pluge. I adjusted the brightness so I could see the inside bars which I believe were suppose to be 4% below black.

Adjust overscan with HSIZ and VSIZ in the service menu.
Does making changes in the service menu void any warranties? Any instructions on how to go through the service menu anywhere?

Thanks all for your help. I'm truly enjoying my new TV and hope with further tweaks (and maybe a new DVD player) I will have an even better picture.

Does making changes in the service menu void any warranties? Any instructions on how to go through the service menu anywhere?
I'll bet that Sony would say it does though they don't explicitly mention it anywhere, but I'm sure your could quibble with them to continue warranty coverage if it came down to it as long as the adjustments you made in the service menu weren't the direct cause of the malfunction in question.

There's a link to a tweak guide somewhere in this thread that includes a pretty good explanation on how to navigate the service menu.

Most of the tweaks are digital adjustments, so just write down the factory numbers before making any adjustment. If a service is required, just change them back to the factory settings. But I doubt the service person will go to the service menu and check each value to see if they were modified.

I have a KP57WS510 and have been noticing for the first couple of minutes after turning it on there are lines in a rainbow pattern in the backround (this can really be seen on dark scenes where the screen should be black but is alittle bluish with the white rainbow lines) but they go away after a few minutes. Does anyone else have this and is this normal?

Never heard of this. You may also want to try posting this on the Sony forum at hometheaterspot. There's some Sony experts over there.

Originally posted by ken14
I have a KP57WS510 and have been noticing for the first couple of minutes after turning it on there are lines in a rainbow pattern in the backround (this can really be seen on dark scenes where the screen should be black but is alittle bluish with the white rainbow lines) but they go away after a few minutes. Does anyone else have this and is this normal?


I saw the similar thing (one blue line and one green line in rainbow pattern), but mine happens during channel change or video input change (you know during the transition, a black screen is displayed). It only happen sometimes and I am not sure it is normal or not. Once the pictures from the next channel show up, those lines would disappear.

I have a KP57WS510 also and have never noticed what you guys are noticing.

Before tonights t-wolves game purchased the 65ws550. It will be coming saturday. Hopefully TNT-HD will be on Comcast by then. I think this is wishfull thinking. A quick question, I have a old non-progressive Sony DVD player. Will the TV do a good job with this or should I get a different player, and if so what are you guys using?

Look forward to getting it up and tweaking.

mightyhonda

You don't need a new DVD player but it's always nice to get new toys. As long as you're using a component connection you old player should be just fine. I'm using a Panasonic RP-82.

I apologize if this question has been answered before. The picture on HD channels viewed through the DVI connection is great. However, when I view the picture on those channels through my DVD recorder, I have a flickering at the top. The funny thing is that the flickering was not there yesterday. And this only happens with the HD channels (which I realize my DVD recorder is not receiving in HD). I suspect this is a pretty common problem with RPTVs, but I am not sure what the fix is. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Originally posted by Joe_M
You don't need a new DVD player but it's always nice to get new toys. As long as you're using a component connection you old player should be just fine. I'm using a Panasonic RP-82.

Good news, so would I then set the tv to cinemotion for the progressive scan and that will look good?

Saturday is not coming soon enough.

yossarian, could be some form of copy protection. are you saying that you're picture is fine if you go directly to the TV? Is it all HD channels or just movie channels?

Originally posted by Joe_M
yossarian, could be some form of copy protection. are you saying that you're picture is fine if you go directly to the TV? Is it all HD channels or just movie channels?

It is all HD channels which are not at the time broadcasting HD signals. The HBO-HD signal was fine on the DVD player. But NBC and ESPN-HD had the flicker at the top of the screen. But I did not notice it yesterday during non-HD programming.

Originally posted by mightyhonda
Good news, so would I then set the tv to cinemotion for the progressive scan and that will look good?

Saturday is not coming soon enough.

You can use whichever DRC mode you wish. Experiment and find what you like. I use Cinemotion for 3:2 film based sources. Progressive works fine for most other viewing. I don't use Interlaced mode very much.

By the way, I am still using a 2.5 year old non-Progressive Sony DVP-NC600 5 disc changer and my picture is great IMO.

Originally posted by Chad T
You can use whichever DRC mode you wish. Experiment and find what you like. I use Cinemotion for 3:2 film based sources. Progressive works fine for most other viewing. I don't use Interlaced mode very much.

By the way, I am still using a 2.5 year old non-Progressive Sony DVP-NC600 5 disc changer and my picture is great IMO.


Sounds good, my player is the DVP-NS300. They should be similar. I am getting a little anxious like a child on Christmas Eve. Should be fun.

Got a question about convergence. I started going through the tweaks document and did the HPOS and VPOS. My overscan is ~5%. Picture is now centered. Looking at the convergence grid (white on black). I can clearly see the three CRT's separated horizontally. Vertically they look pretty good. Is there any way to move the whole grid for a single color? The whole picture is pretty much off and it doesn't seem to make sense to do each point. I need a more coarse adjustment.

Sounds like you need a fine adjustment.


First, FDIS should be set to '1' if it isnt already.
Controls during service level convergence (on your remote)

3 - selects green, red, or blue color for adjustment
6 - selects signal pattern for convergence (brings up grid)
9 - switches betwwen course and fine adjustment modes (normally most users tweak in fine mode)
1 - moves cursor/marker clockwise around pattern
4 - moves cursor/marker counter-clockwise around pattern

Is FDIS just adjusted temporarily or is that a permanent setting?

Originally posted by Chad T
Don't wanna bust your bubble, but a good piece of advice for newbies is to NEVER, EVER buy a floor model RPTV. They are often set to torch settings and are generally abused. It's fine to buy floor model receivers, DVD players, etc., but I would never buy a floor model RPTV. If the set has only been on the floor for a couple days, it might be okay, but I probably still wouldn't buy one that way.

Whaaaa......really?? What do you mean by "They are often set to torch settings". I guess too late to take the floor model back now. I did checked the TV from yop to buttom to make sure eveything is ok.
1. Should I reset the TV to factory setting??
2. I have a patio door about 25ft away from the TV, but the reflection is so bad I seems to concentrate the reflection. Very annoying. Is that normal?? I thought WS550 has anti-reflective screen??

Thanks.

Most showroom floors are very bright. Especially those in Best Buy and the like. Those are very abnormal viewing conditions for rear projection televisions. Generally, the darker the viewing the environment the better. Anyway, to compensate for the overly bright environment, they often crank the brightness and contrast levels way beyond where they would be in a normal home theatre environment. They also crank it up because brighter is often perceived as "better" by the average Joe shopping for a TV. That is one reason why plasmas look so great in Best Buy....because the brightness can really be cranked up on those.

If you leave those showroom settings in place, then view the TV at home in a darkened environment it would burn out your retinas....hence the term "torch settings". ha! You can default back to the factory settings, but oftentimes they are higher than they need to be. Those settings generally are designed to sell TVs, not necessarily be the best or most efficient for the TV.

Overly high brightness/contrast settings are bad because they put unnecessary wear on the CRTs. Also, they create a higher burn-in potential. If you don't see any burn-in patterns, that is good. But if your TV was on a showroom floor like Best Buy for any length of time, there is a good chance the life of that TV (at least the CRTs) was greatly reduced.

With all that said, I recommend cranking down the brightness/contrast as soon as possible. It varies from TV to TV and from pic mode to pic mode, but if you want I can tell you what the settings are on my KP-46WT510 to at least get you in the ball park. But I recommend getting a copy of a calibration disc like AVIA or DVE.

Regarding the reflections, the 550s are better than the 510s with that from what I understand. But still I don't have any problems with my 510. Again, the darker the viewing environment the better. Could you put curtains in front of that door? Or possibly reposition the TV? If you are super-brave, you could try removing the protective screen as many people have done that.

Originally posted by Joe_M
Is FDIS just adjusted temporarily or is that a permanent setting?

Its is if you save it.

Took delivery of KDP65WS550 on Sat. First impressions are WOW.

This set out of box looked great. Watched Spiderman looked outstanding.

A few questions/observations hopefully some of you can help with.

1. When watching a movie with the THX intro, I noticed that the right side of the box was off the screen. Does the ws500 word document earlier in this thread work for the 550? And will this correct this? Also are there any universal changes people have made for things like for red push? I am a newbie, sorry.

2. When watching analog cable or DVD(via componenet, non-progressive) when i toggle through the DRC mode(interlaced, progressive, or cinemotion), the picture does not change at all. I thought this would make changes to a 480i signal. I will say that the pq off DVD look great.

3. I have encountered a few bugs. One came up when I was jumping from the digital ant. signal to a cable signal. All of a sudden when jumping back to cable and trying to channel up the number went from 65 to 65.1 like it was looking fro the digital map. Powered off, Powered on, all good. The second was something similar when going between the ant. and cable everything defaulted to normal view(with grey bars on side) even though when I hit display it showed wide zoom.

Other than that I have been very happy with this set. Hopefully people can offer some thoughts on my questions.

Thanks

mightyhonda

Originally posted by BlackbeardsSaint
Its is if you save it.

What I meant is should I change it to "1" and save the setting as "1"

Originally posted by mightyhonda

1. When watching a movie with the THX intro, I noticed that the right side of the box was off the screen. Does the ws500 word document earlier in this thread work for the 550? And will this correct this? Also are there any universal changes people have made for things like for red push? I am a newbie, sorry.

2. When watching analog cable or DVD(via componenet, non-progressive) when i toggle through the DRC mode(interlaced, progressive, or cinemotion), the picture does not change at all. I thought this would make changes to a 480i signal. I will say that the pq off DVD look great.

mightyhonda

ws500 tweaks will work for ws510. ws550 has different name for each category, you might want to look at the ws550 tweak thread to find out where they are.
Each input (like video 1, video 5, video 7) and each signal(like 480i, 480p, 1080i) has their own AXIS settings for red push, so it is not global.

A couple of page back, there is a detailed info on DRC mode, you might want to take a look at it.

Originally posted by C.Y.
ws500 tweaks will work for ws510. ws550 has different name for each category, you might want to look at the ws550 tweak thread to find out where they are.
Each input (like video 1, video 5, video 7) and each signal(like 480i, 480p, 1080i) has their own AXIS settings for red push, so it is not global.

A couple of page back, there is a detailed info on DRC mode, you might want to take a look at it.

Yes.

Originally posted by C.Y.
ws500 tweaks will work for ws510. ws550 has different name for each category, you might want to look at the ws550 tweak thread to find out where they are.
Each input (like video 1, video 5, video 7) and each signal(like 480i, 480p, 1080i) has their own AXIS settings for red push, so it is not global.

A couple of page back, there is a detailed info on DRC mode, you might want to take a look at it.

Is there a thread specifically for the 550? I did a search and keep coming up with this one.

Found it I think http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=364902&highlight=ws550

Quick question, is there a way to change the sidebars on 4:3 or the background on twin view from grey to black?

mightyhonda

Originally posted by mightyhonda
Quick question, is there a way to change the sidebars on 4:3 or the background on twin view from grey to black?

mightyhonda
Not sure there is a way, but why do you want to do it? If I understand it right, you would have more burn-in issue (or lack of burn-in on sidebar area compared to the center area) by changing it from grey to black.

Originally posted by mightyhonda
Quick question, is there a way to change the sidebars on 4:3 or the background on twin view from grey to black?

I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard from several reasonably reliable sources that the bcol value in the service menu adjusts the level of the grey background.

If you're not familiar and comfortable within the service menu, then I wouldn't attempt to change any values in it.

If you decide to, then set the TV on 4:3 or twinview mode and adjust the value while in that mode. It should allow you to see your changes.

vmark,
Have you tried TPVP and TPHP adjustments from your tweaks doc? I found that if they were changed in service mode, the bracket used to select cross in the user mode convergence screen seems off (i.e. the cross moved, but bracket didn't, and the cross won't be in the center of the bracket). Is this normal, I backed off the changes because of that. Thanks!

I'm not entirely certain what you mean there (with reference to the cross and the bracket...) but I did change the TPVP and TPHP values as indicated by the guide... they were only off by one or two if at all.

If you go to convergence screen in the user mode, you will see 63 convergence pts represented by a cross (+). A bracket ([]) is used to select which point to be adjusted, like [+]. I found after TPHP and TPVP were changed, the position of those 63 crosses also changed, but not the bracket. When the bracket moves to select each cross, it doesn't look like [+] anymore (the cross is in the center of the bracket). The cross would be off-center of the bracket, like [+ ] (if you moved convergence grid to left). I hope you see what I meant now. Thanks!

Originally posted by vmark
I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard from several reasonably reliable sources that the bcol value in the service menu adjusts the level of the grey background.



Yep, that's the way I remember it working. I've gotten (mostly) used to using the grey bars though, or using wide zoom for games (fps mostly).

I just got my DVE disk today. As i already knew the picture is about 3% shifted to the right. As for over-scan the top is 3%, bottom 6%, left is 3% right is 7%. As I am a little scared to the service mode right now can someone tell me exactly what I need to adjust and in which order to get this in line? I have read the 500 document and the terms are different for the ws550 line. Again my model is the KDP-65ws550. I appreciate all your help.

Have a great Memorial Day Weekend.

mightyhonda

Originally posted by mightyhonda
I just got my DVE disk today. As i already knew the picture is about 3% shifted to the right. As for over-scan the top is 3%, bottom 6%, left is 3% right is 7%. As I am a little scared to the service mode right now can someone tell me exactly what I need to adjust and in which order to get this in line? I have read the 500 document and the terms are different for the ws550 line. Again my model is the KDP-65ws550. I appreciate all your help.

Have a great Memorial Day Weekend.

mightyhonda
Category names are different, but maybe item names are still the same, will you be able to find any item name like HPOS and VPOS to shift the images?
I am not sure overscan adjustment is that important or not, using different DVD player would have different overscan result. Even using the same DVD player, overscan from 480i would be different from 480p output. It would be fine as long as it is close to 5%. IMHO, red push and SVM adjustment are the most important ones, then adjust user menu items like color, hue, etc. using your DVE. And after a month, do the convergence adjustment and re-register FF.

Does anyone know which ws510 service menu item is for color decoder adjustment? My DVD player shows -15% green undersaturation at 1080i component output, I'd like to correct it. I only found RGB drive and cutoff adjustments, but I think they are for greylevel adjustment and I shouldn't touch them.

Have another question about convergence on Model WS500. I don't have a user mode convergence, only service mode. Should I be displaying a convergence grid from AVIA as I do this? When I display the AVIA grid and the internal sony grid, the center veritcal line is off. I've already adjusted for horizontal and vertical. Should my internal grid match the grid in avia?

Hey guys, I purchased a KP-46WT510 about a month ago. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Since day one, there's been a vertical black bar on the left side of my TV about 1/8" thick. I didn't think much of it at first, but now it's really starting to get to me.

Being the newb that I am, I tried using the Flash Focus option to see what effect it would have on my set. While it did its test, I noticed the black bar was gone and thought the problem had been solved. After the test, however, the black bar was back and it had grown in width! I remeasured it and it became about 1/2" thick opposed to 1/8" before. Edit: The black bar is apparent on Full/Wide/Wide Zoom modes, but it seems like on Normal the black bar on the right is bigger than the left.

I tried using one of the service menu options (MDHP), but it wouldn't let me position the screen any further to the left. Are there any other options in the service menu that can help eliminate this obnoxious black bar? Thanks in advance.

What does the overscan patten show?

Originally posted by C.Y.
What does the overscan patten show? Are you asking me or someone who posted before me? What overscan pattern are you talking about?

Originally posted by Hoonyo
Hey guys, I purchased a KP-46WT510 about a month ago. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Since day one, there's been a vertical black bar on the left side of my TV about 1/8" thick. I didn't think much of it at first, but now it's really starting to get to me.

Being the newb that I am, I tried using the Flash Focus option to see what effect it would have on my set. While it did its test, I noticed the black bar was gone and thought the problem had been solved. After the test, however, the black bar was back and it had grown in width! I remeasured it and it became about 1/2" thick opposed to 1/8" before. Edit: The black bar is apparent on Full/Wide/Wide Zoom modes, but it seems like on Normal the black bar on the right is bigger than the left.

I tried using one of the service menu options (MDHP), but it wouldn't let me position the screen any further to the left. Are there any other options in the service menu that can help eliminate this obnoxious black bar? Thanks in advance.

I have the 550, but I think these service adjustment are the same. In mine it is under DEF1 and DEF2 and you'll see a HPOS, HSIZ, VPOS, and VSIZ. Moving these around will change your horizontal and vertical positions and horizontal and vertical size. Good luck.

Originally posted by lancer1991
I have the 550, but I think these service adjustment are the same. In mine it is under DEF1 and DEF2 and you'll see a HPOS, HSIZ, VPOS, and VSIZ. Moving these around will change your horizontal and vertical positions and horizontal and vertical size. Good luck. Hey, thanks for those other options! I noticed HPOS (probably what I need to adjust) is in two categories: 215OD-2 and OSD. What exactly is the difference? Also, will I need to go into each Video mode from 1-7 and adjust it for each?

Originally posted by Hoonyo
Are you asking me or someone who posted before me? What overscan pattern are you talking about?
I meant you might want to check with AVIA or DVE overscan pattern first before doing HPOS, HSIZ adjustments.
If you need to, you should do the ones under 2150D-2 (also write down the original values in each wide mode). They should be the same for different inputs, but I think they are different for different wide modes.

Originally posted by Hoonyo
Hey, thanks for those other options! I noticed HPOS (probably what I need to adjust) is in two categories: 215OD-2 and OSD. What exactly is the difference? Also, will I need to go into each Video mode from 1-7 and adjust it for each?

I found that I needed to change these setting for each of my Video choices. Not sure about the 2 locatins, since the 550 service menu is set up differntly than the 510. I would copy down your original setting first and make changes to both and see what happens. You can always set it back to the original info you wrote down.

Originally posted by C.Y.
Does anyone know which ws510 service menu item is for color decoder adjustment? My DVD player shows -15% green undersaturation at 1080i component output, I'd like to correct it. I only found RGB drive and cutoff adjustments, but I think they are for greylevel adjustment and I shouldn't touch them.
CY - On your set item 0 (MTRX) in category 2171 is a switch to use either the SD or HD color matrix. While in 1080i, change it from the default of 1 to 0, and green will be back to normal. I think your set will store a separate MTRX value for 1080i component and DVI. To verify, change MTRX to 0 while tuned to your 1080i component source, and then switch to a 1080i DVI input and the value should still be 1 for the DVI source. If you don't use DVI it's a moot point.

IMO

Originally posted by IMO
CY - On your set item 0 (MTRX) in category 2171 is a switch to use either the SD or HD color matrix. While in 1080i, change it from the default of 1 to 0, and green will be back to normal. I think your set will store a separate MTRX value for 1080i component and DVI. To verify, change MTRX to 0 while tuned to your 1080i component source, and then switch to a 1080i DVI input and the value should still be 1 for the DVI source. If you don't use DVI it's a moot point.

IMO
Thanks for the info, I found it in the service menu and I will try it out tonight. Looks like 0 is using SD color matrix and 1 is using HD color matrix. The defaults are listed as the followings if anyone is interested
video 5,6 480i ---- 0
video 5,6 480p ---- 0
video 5,6 1080i --- 1
video 5,6 720p ---- 1
video 7 480i -------- 0
video 7 480p ------- 0
video 7 1080i ------- 1
video 7 720p -------- 1

I will change video 5,6 1080i from 1 to 0 and I think it will correct the problem for my zenith 318 1080i component output. Thanks again, IMO.

Originally posted by Hoonyo
Hey, thanks for those other options! I noticed HPOS (probably what I need to adjust) is in two categories: 215OD-2 and OSD. What exactly is the difference? Also, will I need to go into each Video mode from 1-7 and adjust it for each?
It seems like HPOS has only one setting for all wide modes. HSIZ has two settings, one for wide zoom, one for everything else (zoom, full/norm, 1080i).

The ones under OSD is used for on screen display.

Thanks for the info guys. I've just about eliminated all the underscan and overscan. There's a little part on the top right corner that seems a little off, though. It's like a very thin triangle of black.

If you did change HPOS, HSIZ, etc, you need to re-register Flash Focus. Otherwise convergence will be off if you use FF to do convergence.

Originally posted by C.Y.
If you did change HPOS, HSIZ, etc, you need to re-register Flash Focus. Otherwise convergence will be off if you use FF to do convergence. What do you mean re-register?

I just took off my glare screen, but ummm... I feel stupid for asking but I just wanted to make sure...

I was supposed to take off the outer most screen out of the three, right? The one that is clear and highly reflective? The other two are not as clear and the outer screen is now "corrugated."

Originally posted by jagz
I just took off my glare screen, but ummm... I feel stupid for asking but I just wanted to make sure...

I was supposed to take off the outer most screen out of the three, right? The one that is clear and highly reflective? The other two are not as clear and the outer screen is now "corrugated."


Yes, that is correct.

The other 2 layers are the Lenticular ane Fresnal, they must be used.

Does anyone know of a code that will allow a Sony Televison Remote to operate the Toshiba DST 3100 Direct TV, HD receiver?

The Sony codes in their manuals show 806 / 807, these will not control the DST3100.


Thanks

Originally posted by Hoonyo
What do you mean re-register?
Do a search in this thread, you will see how to re-register FF correctly.

Originally posted by TS45
Does anyone know of a code that will allow a Sony Televison Remote to operate the Toshiba DST 3100 Direct TV, HD receiver?

The Sony codes in their manuals show 806 / 807, these will not control the DST3100.


Thanks I heard you can call Sony to get the correct code.

Earlier in this thread, there was a link for tweaks to Sony RP TV's. Are these compatible with a KP51WS510?

Earlier in this thread, there was a link for tweaks to Sony RP TV's. Are these compatible with a KP51WS510?

email me at purrball@xtra.co.nz

Originally posted by Eddie Horton
Earlier in this thread, there was a link for tweaks to Sony RP TV's. Are these compatible with a KP51WS510? Yes, it works with ws510.

Originally posted by monsta11
email me at purrball@xtra.co.nz Just a suggestion, if yours is the 23MB pdf file, you might want to send out the first 175 pages only, since after that it is just user manual in different languages and most people can't receive attachment larger than 10 MB.

Hi,

I am a newbie here...
I am in the market for this SONY KP-51WS510. I like to setup
my HP Media Center PC to it. I know there is a DVI input into
this TV and even with SVideo in. I got these question for the owner...

Has anyone try to hookup a PC? DVI or SVIDEO?

How is the picture quality (icons) on this TV? Can I really surf the web?

Can I use the PIP to surf the web and watching TV? or use the split screen feature?

Any issue with the burn-in especially with the PC setup?

Should I spend the extra money for the extended warranty?

Is the basic cable good for this set? or do need to go HD?

Should I go with Projection vs DLP vs LCD for this situation?

Thanks in advance.

Garfield2000

I use the DVI connection for my HD cable box. Reg cable looks good, but HD is where this unit shines. Don't know about hooking up a PC, but I suspect that burn in would be an issue on this or any other RPTV, especially if the TV screen would look just like the computer monitor with Internet Explorer running. The taskbar at the bottom of the screen would be burnt in fairly quickly, as it never changes.

Has anyone tried the i.link yet? I have the 51ws550, and tried it the other night with my Sony Digital 8 camcorder and I'm a little disappointed. I was expecting to be able to see a true digital to digital connection full screen. However, I have an annoying split screen with the digital tuner being on one side and the i.link on the other with no way to get rid of either.

Originally posted by C.Y.
Just a suggestion, if yours is the 23MB pdf file, you might want to send out the first 175 pages only, since after that it is just user manual in different languages and most people can't receive attachment larger than 10 MB. Unless you have Gmail, then IT'S ON!!! I've e-mailed for mine!

I have to provide ftp to the sender to receive it.
Have you tried the service menu convergence? Do you follow the service menu to do it in Full mode, then copy it to other modes and re-register, or you do convergence for each mode then re-register?

Originally posted by monsta11
email me at purrball@xtra.co.nz Sent you a note last week.

Anyone else get this? If so, please send to dirkbelig@gmail.com. TIA!

Everyone,

over in the zenith 318 dvd player thread I posted directions that disables the vertical squeeze when in 1080i and 720p and it was suggested that I post here as well. Now this works for my tube (32hs500)... so let me know if it's cool here as well. In the service menu, the item is JUMP and the default is 1. Flip it to 0. It's in 2170D-3 and the description is "reference pulse jump switch". As with any service menu changes... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. The PQ is decreases and I never use it, but others use it for video games etc so it fills the whole screen. Cheers,

Hi, I am trying to decide between 510 and 550. Looks like more folks are leaning towards 550. But I was told that 510 has built in HDTV receiver, but for 550 you need to buy a separate one. Is that true? With about $200 - $300 dollar difference, is it worth to buy 550?

Please help in deciding.

Thanks.

Originally posted by decision
Hi, I am trying to decide between 510 and 550. Looks like more folks are leaning towards 550. But I was told that 510 has built in HDTV receiver, but for 550 you need to buy a separate one. Is that true? With about $200 - $300 dollar difference, is it worth to buy 550?

Please help in deciding.

Thanks. You've got it exactly backwards (as a quick trip to Sony's site to do some basic research would've told you) as it's the 510s that DO NOT have the built-in OTA HDTV tuner and the 550s that DO have the HDTV tuner.

If you plan on getting Voom or the HD versions of DirectTV or Dish network or a HD cable service, get the 510 (though it has a a different - some say inferior - screen design with more glare) because the HD tuner will be redundant. If you live in an area with a decent selection of local stations providing HD and/or you're more about DVD viewing, go for the 550.

Hope this helps. :)

(Now if someone would be so kind as to send me that service manual, please? Thank you.)

Originally posted by jbird04
Everyone,

over in the zenith 318 dvd player thread I posted directions that disables the vertical squeeze when in 1080i and 720p and it was suggested that I post here as well. Now this works for my tube (32hs500)... so let me know if it's cool here as well. In the service menu, the item is JUMP and the default is 1. Flip it to 0. It's in 2170D-3 and the description is "reference pulse jump switch". As with any service menu changes... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. The PQ is decreases and I never use it, but others use it for video games etc so it fills the whole screen. Cheers,

Anyone else try this yet?

I forgot to mention one thing about the vertical squeeze trick. You need to be in 1080i mode for this to work as well. Default in 480p is 0. The bad thing about it is that it vertically stretches widescreen material and you'd have to flip it back for that.

Can someone explain the proper way to perform Service Menu Convergence.

I am familiar with the service menu etc, not sure what is needed to perform the convergence however.

Thanks

There is a link posted in this thread toward the beginning that addresses lots of tweaks for these TV's. How to do a service menu convergence is explained in that document.

Originally posted by TS45
Can someone explain the proper way to perform Service Menu Convergence.

I am familiar with the service menu etc, not sure what is needed to perform the convergence however.

Thanks

Disclaimer: Use this at your own risk. In no case will I be held liable for injury or damage (consequential or otherwise) resulting from or arising out of alterations you make to your television.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
for ws510 series

FUNCTION OF KEYS ON REMOTE CONTROL (in PJE category)

key "1": Changes adjustment item. (Item # moves up)

Marker moves clockwise from center to outside.
(In Fine Adjustment mode)

key "4": Changes adjustment item. (Item # moves down)

Marker moves counter clockwise from outside to center.
(In Fine Adjustment mode)

key "2": Changes adjustment category.
(Category # moves up)

key "5": Changes adjustment category.
(Category # moves down)

Joystick: Changes data value. (Up or down)
Marker moves clockwise from center
(up, down, right, and then left) to outside.
(In Fine Adjustment mode)

key "3": Changes adjustment color.
GRN BLU RED

key "6": Displays or changes internal test signals.
crosshatch + external signal
crosshatch + borderline
crosshatch only
dot only off

key "9": Switches adjustment mode.
Coarse adjustment model
Fine adjustment mode

----------------------------------------------------------
For fine adjustment: (do NTSC Full mode first)

1. Enter the service mode and select PJE category;.
2. Select FDIS item and set the data to 01 so that the data at each
position can be displayed in fine adjustment mode.
3. Press button 6 to display the internal test signal (crosshatch)
4. Press the 9 button on the remote commander and fine
adjustment mode will be active where a green marker appears in
the center of the screen. (In the case of GRN mode)
5. Press down on the joystick, and the marker color will be alternately
switched between green (GRN mode) and white.
6. Press the 1 or 4 button on the remote commander, or use the
joystick to move the marker to the position to be adjusted, where
fine adjustment can be made.

When the marker color is white:
(in this case, fine adjustment is disabled)
Use the joystick to move the marker up, down, left, or right.

When the marker color is green:
(GRN mode)
press "1" : Moves the marker clockwise from the center to the outside.
press "4" : Moves the marker counter clockwise from the outside
to the center.

Fine adjustment can be made on the basis of a marker position
using the joystick to move crosshatches up, down, left or right.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
REGISTRATION DATA WRITING

1. After completing each adjustment of green, blue, and red for the NTSC
Full mode press the MUTING + ENTER buttons on the remote
commander to write the registration data to the NVM.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
COPYING ALL REGISTRATION DATA TO OTHER MODES

1. Make sure that the adjustment for NTSC Full mode are complete
and the data has already been written.
2. Select the PJE category.
3. Select ALCP item and set the data to 01, and press the
MUTING + ENTER buttons on the remote commander.
4. The data from the NTSC Full mode is copied to all other modes.
Full Screen mode --> Zoom Screen mode
Full Screen mode --> Wide Zoom Screen mode
Full Screen mode --> HD (1080i Full Screen mode)

It is done when ALCP data is changed back to 00.

5. Check in the other modes and adjust as demands.
Be sure to write data in each mode.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
re-register Flash Focus (be sure do this in NTSC Full mode)

Once registration in all modes is satisfactory, do the following:
1. Darken the room environment near the set.
2. Enter the monoscope signal to set the NTSC Full mode.
3. Select the PJE category.
4. To automatically store the offset values, press the FLASH FOCUS;
button on the front panel of the set.
(The offset value is now stored)
5. Select ERR item of PJE category.
Confirm ERR is 00.
6. Exit the service mode.

Someone forwarded me the manual offered above (why didn't that guy send it?), but it's for the KP-WS510 and I've got a KDP-51WS550. Are the adjustments comparable?

I need to tweak the green decoder and bring down the overscan, but when adjusting the HSIZ and VSIZ settings, it starts bowing across the top and going way out of convergence. How do I set this up w/o making a wreck of things?

I haven't figured out how to adjust the overscan very much without getting the same effect. I'll be glad to hear if anyone has a systematic approach.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
Someone forwarded me the manual offered above (why didn't that guy send it?), but it's for the KP-WS510 and I've got a KDP-51WS550. Are the adjustments comparable?

I need to tweak the green decoder and bring down the overscan, but when adjusting the HSIZ and VSIZ settings, it starts bowing across the top and going way out of convergence. How do I set this up w/o making a wreck of things?
How about try coarse adjustment. The item PIN in PJE category seems like what you need to fix the bowing grid lines.

I think Buji and I need step-by-step, "Service Mode Antics For Dummies" instructions (yes, I saw what was posted above) that don't assume knowledge of the arcane in the reader. Thanks.

Disclaimer: Use this at your own risk. In no case will I be held liable for injury or damage (consequential or otherwise) resulting from or arising out of alterations you make to your television.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
for ws510 series

OPERATION METHOD FOR COARSE ADJUSTMENT (first do it in NTSC Full mode)

1. Enter the service mode and select PJE category.

2. Press the 1 or 4 button on the remote commander to select the
item, and then use the joystick to change the data

3. Press button 6 to display the internal test signal (crosshatch)

4. Select GRN CENT (or any item you want to adjust). When BLU or RED is displayed, press the 3
button on the remote commander to change the adjustment color
in the order of GRN BLU RED.

5. In GRN, BLU, or RED mode, move the joystick up or down to change
the data in vertical direction, or left or right to change the data in a
horizontal direction.

6. Before returning to the service mode, press the MUTING +
ENTER buttons on the remote commander to write the data.
(You must complete step 6 to write the data. If you omit step 6 the
set data is returned to the data prior to the adjustment. Like fine adjustment, data can be copied from NTSC Full mode to other modes. And re-register FLASH FOCUS is required for it to work properly (not overwrite your changes).

Items available in PJE category for coarse adjustment
CENT
SKEW
SIZE
LIN
MSIZ (horizontally only)
MLIN (horizontally only)
PIN
KEY (vertically only)

For each item (and each color), there are two numbers shown on the screen, one for horizontal data and one for vertical data. Write down those numbers before making any changes, in case you want to change them back.

Originally posted by DirkBelig
Someone forwarded me the manual offered above (why didn't that guy send it?), but it's for the KP-WS510 and I've got a KDP-51WS550. Are the adjustments comparable?

I need to tweak the green decoder and bring down the overscan, but when adjusting the HSIZ and VSIZ settings, it starts bowing across the top and going way out of convergence. How do I set this up w/o making a wreck of things?

Don't quote me, but I believe the the 550 is the 510 with the built-in tuner.

Way upthread (like in the first page or two), I linked to a post about the WS550 that made it sound like there were significant under-hood differences.

Originally posted by lancer1991
Has anyone tried the i.link yet? I have the 51ws550, and tried it the other night with my Sony Digital 8 camcorder and I'm a little disappointed. I was expecting to be able to see a true digital to digital connection full screen. However, I have an annoying split screen with the digital tuner being on one side and the i.link on the other with no way to get rid of either.

Anyone have any input on this? Just wondering if there is another setting or something I'm missing.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by C.Y.
[B]Disclaimer: Use this at your own risk. In no case will I be held liable for injury or damage (consequential or otherwise) resulting from or arising out of alterations you make to your television.

Thank you!

Originally posted by lancer1991
Anyone have any input on this? Just wondering if there is another setting or something I'm missing.


We have this set-up, Dig. 8 via i-link. To view the Full screen image, press the "EXIT" button on the bottom of your remote control to display the image.

An explanation of this is on page 87 of the manual.

Hi all,

First I would just like to thank everyone for the calibration and tweaking pointers. I've completed all of the major stuff with the exception of mechanical focus (that's a project for another day). However, I have run into a small problem.

I have a KP-51WS510. After correcting the vertical and horizontal overscan to < 5% (via H/V POS, SIZ, and LIN), I've found slight bowing at the top of the screen. It's not drastic, it almost falls into the category of "I can only see it because I know it's there", and even then it can only be really noticed when viewing 2.35:1 material. Is there a way to correct this on my own, or do I need to make a trade-off between the bowing and overscan?

edit: Almost forgot...after disabling red push (set AXIS to 1), using the DVE color pattern and filters, blue and red are spot-on, but green is a still a bit off. Any idea which service menu item(s) I can use to tweak the green? I'm under the impression the *CUT and *DRV are greyscale, not color decoder, adjustments. If I'm wrong, it wouldn't be the first time. :D

Thanks again
-Jon

Originally posted by BlackbeardsSaint
Don't quote me, but I believe the the 550 is the 510 with the built-in tuner. I know that, BUT it appears that the service mode categories are TOTALLY DIFFERENT between the 510 and 550, so the 510 manual is nearly useless for adjusting a 550. Too bad. :(

Originally posted by smokeyjon
edit: Almost forgot...after disabling red push (set AXIS to 1), using the DVE color pattern and filters, blue and red are spot-on, but green is a still a bit off. Any idea which service menu item(s) I can use to tweak the green? I'm under the impression the *CUT and *DRV are greyscale, not color decoder, adjustments. If I'm wrong, it wouldn't be the first time. :D

Thanks again
-Jon
Do not use filters, just turn on blue CRT only to calibrate color and hue and turn on each CRT individually to check the result. I am not sure there is a way to adjust color decoder for each color.

CY,

Thanks for the tips...I dug through the service manual and came to the same conclusion, that there's no way to individually tweak each color. I'll follow your method to see if I can tighten up the green.

Originally posted by smokeyjon
I have a KP-51WS510. After correcting the vertical and horizontal overscan to < 5% (via H/V POS, SIZ, and LIN), I've found slight bowing at the top of the screen. It's not drastic, it almost falls into the category of "I can only see it because I know it's there", and even then it can only be really noticed when viewing 2.35:1 material. Is there a way to correct this on my own, or do I need to make a trade-off between the bowing and overscan?
Did you try to adjust PIN to correct bowing?

Originally posted by smokeyjon
CY,

Thanks for the tips...I dug through the service manual and came to the same conclusion, that there's no way to individually tweak each color. I'll follow your method to see if I can tighten up the green. Maybe CBOF/CROF and CBO2/CRO2 in 2103-1 category can do something about color decoder, but it is going to affect more than one color.

Green values are adjusted by changing the category "matrix". Just remembered that this changes the SD or HD color setting. It does, however change the green saturation.

Originally posted by Eddie Horton
Green values are adjusted by changing the category "matrix". Just remembered that this changes the SD or HD color setting. It does, however change the green saturation. I think he is looking to fine tune color decoder, not to change color matrix, unless he is using Zenith 318 with component output.

My bad. You're right. I was thinking of what I did with my 318 to get the saturation right.

Forgive a newbie's ignorance, but I have a few questions/observations regarding my 57WS550:

I am using a Silver Sensor indoor antenna. Why is it that CBS (16:9 HD) has black bars down the left and right sides; meanwhile, PBS (16:9 HD) fills the entire screen? The black bars aren't as wide as those when a SD channel is viewed in the 4:3 mode.

While viewing SD programming from my Dish Network satellite dish the four
corners of the screen appear darker when the screen is filled with a light
color (white background, the sky, etc.), but when I watch PBS HD (via a
Silver Sensor indoor antenna) I don't notice this.

There seems to be a bright area of the screen (horizontally across the entire screen) that moves with your line-of-sight (if you move your head up/down a bit). Is this a "normal" phenomina of rear projection CRT TVs? If so, is there some technical name for it?

Thanks to all in advance.

Originally posted by Bogey62
Forgive a newbie's ignorance, but I have a few questions/observations regarding my 57WS550:

I am using a Silver Sensor indoor antenna. Why is it that CBS (16:9 HD) has black bars down the left and right sides; meanwhile, PBS (16:9 HD) fills the entire screen? The black bars aren't as wide as those when a SD channel is viewed in the 4:3 mode.



Make sure all the programming is HD (titantv.com). PBS is always in HD, network is not.

Just curious but I see a Sony 46WT510 and then a see a 51WS510. Does the WT mean it's the new model or anything? Are there any differences?
Thanks

The WS510 was released August '03, true? Will the 510's replacement be released soon?

Originally posted by Jim Banville
The WS510 was released August '03, true? Will the 510's replacement be released soon?

Yes.. it is WS520 .. basically the same TV as WS510 with HDMI
and a new white cover. Same price as WS510.

"WHITE cover"?!!!

Originally posted by Jim Banville
"WHITE cover"?!!!

Check it out yourself ..


Sony 51" KP-51WS520 (http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=ZgmihGd2bJCi2CZ4zY-ojyhm-cseXUFB06Q=?ProductSKU=KP51WS520&Dept=tv&CategoryName=tv_ProjectionTVs_RearProjection_43to53TVs)

<sarcasm> Ok, so white is totally going to go well with everyone's living room. </sarcasm>

Looks silver to me. Where does it say it's white?

So the only difference is the outside? WIll retailers sell this at a higher price and sell the 510 for cheaper to get rid of it?
Thanks

I wrote this earlier, but I didn't see any comments concerning the following issues:

While viewing SD programming from my Dish Network satellite dish (s-video connection) the four corners of the screen appear darker when the screen is filled with a light color (white background, the sky, etc.), but when I watch PBS HD I don't notice this as much.

Also, there seems to be a bright area of the screen (horizontally across the entire screen) that moves with your line-of-sight (if you move your head up/down a bit). Is this a "normal" phenomina of rear projection CRT TVs? If so, is there some technical name for it?

Anyone?

Thanks.

hey all, just got a KP-51ws510 and love it. just had a couple quick questions though.

i went to go disable SVM as is described in this link:

http://mvgrafx.dyn.ca/~vmark/KPxxWS500.html

however, i found that the value was already zero. the number to the left of the zero is one, but i can't change that one. is it normal for some sets to have SVM already disabled?

also, i notice i have a little bit of overscan. is it very complicated to adjust or is as easy as disabling the SVM and red push.

finally, going back to the link above, whats the consensus on the "soft-look" adjustments. are they worth applying? i know it may vary from person to person but i'm just curious.

anyway, love the set and this post has been very helpful. and thanks in advance for any responses

Hey Tony! That's my site that you referenced! :)

On Sony models, SVM is already disabled on the Movie and Pro modes, I believe.

Overscan is not hard to change in itself, but it will mess up your convergence (the alignment of the 3 CRTs). A manual convergence is probably not something you're ready to jump into trying on a new set yet. Check your overscan with something like AVIA, if it's less than 5%, then don't worry about it, that's normal and expected.

I've performed all the soft look adjustments in the guide and I'm very happy with my picture. Just record what the settings were before changing them and restore them if you're not happy with the result.

Ok guys. I have been reading and trying to understand everything in this thread. I have a 51ws510 and just started tweaking it using the AVIA DVD. I am now having some serious convergence issues.

I centered the image, and then centered the convergence grid. Then I adjusted the horiz size and vertical size to get my overscan is check - which is now less than 2% all the way around. But my problems have both been discussed before on here and I havent got a clear answer.

First, on the menu settings (not in service mode), the convergence pattern is not in alignment with the selection box. As CY said earlier it looks like [+ ] instead of this [+] with the plus sign being way off center. Is this normal?

Second, as mentioned above, I am also getting a football shaped distortion which is very apparent when viewing any of the grid patterns on the DVD. I played around with the manual convergence mode last night, but didnt save the settings because I wasnt sure what to do. I got it so only the green CRT was on and had a green grid (with a distorted football shape). And I noticed that as I moved points around, there is like a coordinate system that you can see on the top of the screen. It give kind of an X and Y value so to speak. My center point was something like -07 07 but as I moved it those values changed. Should I use this to my advantage - for example - try to get all the vertical lines to the same X value (like -07, or maybe even 00?) ? Or should this all be done by just eyeballing it? Also, if I do adjust this grid to look square again, how can I tell the grids are even on each side? If I can get the green one square, adjusting the other two to it should be easier - I hope.

Anyone that has done this manual convergence - please offer some advice. Even before I touched anything, the image was off cenetered and in certain widescreen images you could see the top line was not perfectly straight. But now the image is centered, but more distorted.

I undid "centering convergence grid", it looks like moving convergence grid will make the bracket ([ ]) move, but the cross (+) won't, therefore the final result is [ +] instead of [+]. I hope you have saved the original values.

As far as service menu convergence, you can reference what I posted several pages ago. You don't need to look at those values in fine adjustment mode, just eyeball it (unless you have a template). For coarse adjustment mode, you had better write down those numbers in case you want to change it back. You can either eyeball it or use a tape measure to ensure the grid is square. And it is correct to do green first, then red and blue.

I think 4% overscan is good enough, 2% seems a little bit overdone.

Thanks for the info. So moving the convergence grid is what affected the [+] alignment? Dont you really want the convergence grid centered? I did write down the original values, but it seems having the grid truly centered would be more important than the asthetics of having the + sign centered in the box.
I will go back and adjust my overscan. Maybe that is why the image is so distorted now. Actually, its not all that bad - my girlfriend didnt even notice until I pointed it out- but it really irritates the hell out of me. I want it perfect, ya know?

I don't know what is the benefit of centering convergence grid, as long as all points have correct convergence (unless it is off too much, you actually lost some points, but I doubt it will happen). In user menu, what if "+" is totally out of "[]", I don't know how it will affect user menu convergence. But if you only use service menu convergence, it is a non-issue.

Ok, now I have the box [] centered on the + again. And using the AVIA dvd I have my overscan to ~5% and the image is about perfectly centered. But now my user menu convergence grid is shifted way to the right. The row of + marks on the righ side of the screen are almost halfway off the screen. If I shift the image over, obivously it is no longer centered. If I do a course convergence adjustment to all three colors, it will move my entire image, right? How can I get the grid correct without actually moving the image from the dvd player?

Shouldn't you use the "deflection" geometry settings (HPOS, VSIZ, etc.) for making the image centered and sized? Wouldn't you only use the PJE settings for convergence related items?

Hey gang great thread.

I'm looking at the 51WS510 as they are on clearout prices with the 520 starting to hit the floor.

My question is how does the 4:3 expansion work on the sony? I know the modes, I'm just curious it when watching the running back cut I will miss the linebackers arm tripping him up? Meaning if you strech the window does it chop too much off?

I really like the new Panny 53X54 "just" mode...

For those of you that don't know what I'm talking about (my explaination not your knowledge) I want the picture shown on CNET... Pic #4.

http://www.cnet.com/4520-7874_1-5108580-4.html?tag=dir

Going to buy on Sunday, so I look foward to your input.

Originally posted by Jim Banville
Shouldn't you use the "deflection" geometry settings (HPOS, VSIZ, etc.) for making the image centered and sized? Wouldn't you only use the PJE settings for convergence related items?


I did use those center the image and adjust overscan. And those are fine now. But out of the box the image was shifted slightly to the left a bit. I didnt realize how much until I put up the overscan screen. So in moving the image right using HPOS it moved the convergence grid right it seems.

I think sometime this weekend if I have the balls I will adjust the convergence in the PJE settings. I have most of the factory ones written down so I can always go back, but the problem is when I adjust things like GRN CENT on PJE it moves the background image as well. Maybe if I center the 3 colors first, then I can move the image itself using HPOS and not affect the convergence?

I still haven't seen a fix that works for bowed, distorted top part of screen. I adjusted overscan, and now when I watch movies with black bars at the top and bottom, the top one is bowed. What is the fix for this? Using the "pin" control in PJE didn't work.

It seems to me that fixing the fine convergence settings should clear that up. I have almost all of the bowing gone in my set - but just a little bit still there. I am just having a problem getting the convergence centered while the image is still centered.