Wow 34 pages of reading... oufff.

I have a few questions, that I am not sure if they have been answered already. (Hey give me a break, it has been 34pages.)

I have a three seat couch.
How many aura bass should I get for it?
Three aura bass or two aura bass pro (three maybe)??

Also how tall are they?
I dont really want to gut the couch so I am thinking of just screwing some mdf with the aura(s) attached to it underneath the couch, I am just wondering if there is enough clearance?
My couch is above 3" from the floor.

I am also curious about vibration transfer to the floor?
One of the reasons I am intersted in these shakers is that I live in an apartment and want to minimize noise/vibration to not annoy the neighbours and still have bass shakeup. :)

Will the couch start vibrating like crazy and some dampers will be required to prevent the vibration to the floor?
If yes, so what is recomended to do in this case?

Or it will not be an issue?

Cheers.

Just read most of this thread,and did not find an answer to this, so here it goes.

It is recommended to connect these shakers to a 2nd receiver for more control.

I currently have a onkyo 605. How do i connect an additional receiver to my main receiver?

And having 2 different amps connected, will it effect my onkyo in any way?

Just read most of this thread,and did not find an answer to this, so here it goes.

It is recommended to connect these shakers to a 2nd receiver for more control.

I currently have a onkyo 605. How do i connect an additional receiver to my main receiver?

And having 2 different amps connected, will it effect my onkyo in any way?

You use a splitter on the onkyo 605 LFE/Sub output - one of the split legs goes to the Sub and the other goes to the receiver driving the bass shakers

Also how tall are they?
I dont really want to gut the couch so I am thinking of just screwing some mdf with the aura(s) attached to it underneath the couch, I am just wondering if there is enough clearance?
My couch is above 3" from the floor.


I have the basic Aura's and they are about 2.5"

You use a splitter on the onkyo 605 LFE/Sub output - one of the split legs goes to the Sub and the other goes to the receiver driving the bass shakers

k, where on the 2nd receiver does the rca plug connect to?

k, where on the 2nd receiver does the rca plug connect to?

Into one of the inputs - in my case I'm using a Sherwood Stereo recever....I took one of the legs from the splitter into another splitter and then used the CD L & R inputs......I found I had to boost the LFE level on the primary receiver (and dial down at the sub) and have the shaker receiver at around 75% volume to get a nice ""shake""

undestood.

I have a new sub coming this week ( mfw 15) , will splitting the signal to the other receiver for the bass shakers make my main sub weaker?

undestood.

I have a new sub coming this week ( mfw 15) , will splitting the signal to the other receiver for the bass shakers make my main sub weaker?

I can't say I noticed than my main sub got weaker after splitting the signal. I had originally calibrated with my sub volume set at about 60%. However I found that I was not getting the desired shake from my shakers.

So I turned down volume at sub to about 40% and re-calibrated the receiver.....the boosted LFE did the trick.

Another option, that I had on my old second receiver, is to use the phone input. It has more sensitivity than the other inputs. I calibrated my sub and then tweaked my second receiver to get the shakers where I wanted them.

Hello all-
I was planning on using four pro shakers on my couch in my living room with my Emotiva BPA-1 (75w x2 at 4ohm / 150x x1 at 8ohm). I am sending the signal split from my Pioneer Elite receiver sub out to two Jamo 650subs (one front and one rear) and then pass through the sub to the BPA-1 then mono out to the shakers wired in ?. What is the best way to wire these up- parallel vs series parallel? Does anyone see a problem with my plan plan?

Thank you for the help!
Nik

I just posted these Aura's in the classified section for anyone looking.

-T.Wells

hi everyone

i ll get 4 shakers from monacor-spain.and i want to know if this receiver Kenwood KRF-V5200D is suitable to drive them if so should i connect the subwoofer pre out of my onkyo tx-sr805 to the subwoofer in or aux left or right of the kenwood

my next question is this
if i purchase a 7.1 av receiver with 100w for each channel that means i can wire up 14 shakers oif 50 w ,2 shakers for each channel?

my next question is this
if i purchase a 7.1 av receiver with 100w for each channel that means i can wire up 14 shakers oif 50 w ,2 shakers for each channel?Basically, the answer is a big maybe...

100w per channel might be the 4 ohm rating... two shakers would be an 8 ohm load... this would limit the power output to 50 watts per channel, unless the 100w rating was into 8 ohms.

Maybe the 7.1 amplifier can be set into a mode where it DOES NOT DO BASS MANAGEMENT.

If it thinks it is doing you a favor by limiting the frequency response of the 7 channels to > 100 Hz, and outing the frequencies below 100Hz to its own line-level subwoofer output, then it is NOT going to work.

Since MOST of the receivers are NOT rated for simultaneous output from ALL channels at rated output, but instead only one or two channels, Odds are the 700 watts is really 2 or 3 hundred watts max at one time. Best way to check... look at the AC wattage input to the amplifier. If it draws 150 watts from the AC ine, and has at best an 80% efficiency, no way it can output more than 120 watts, regardless of what the marketing folks say. To output 700 watts for more than a fraction of a second, the amplifier would need to pull 1000 watts or more from the wall outlet.

So, it might work but it is the wrong tool for the task. Did I mention you would have to split the input signal from your main reciever and feed all 7 inputs. As I said... maybe...

Joe L.

right now i will need 6 shakers for my 3 seats in my ht and maybe i ll use only 4 .....,then which amp do you recommend me a stereo amp or av amp ???

i am looking for the cheapest one that will do great job,as i sais before right now i ll use 4 ,of course i am interested in 8 ohms amp and as i live in spain this web site offers good prices for amps

www dot redcoon dot es at left page click hifi/cine en casa and then up in the page click receptor av you ll see some good ones
can you recommend me someone

Has anyone thought of using a Logitect Z-5500 to power the shakers?

The Z-5500 has:
- 62 watts RMS x 4
- 69 watts RMS (center)
- 188 watts RMS for the sub

It should power some 50 watts shakers without sweat. Right?
Basically, I want my speakers to be powered by my receiver and use the Z-5500 as my sub and shaker amp.

What am I missing?

Thanks!

[Edit] Nevermind, I know what I am missing. The Z-5500 has a hardwired crossover.
Is there a way to remove the crossover?

I hope this thread is still alive. I am getting introduced to bass shakers. I have read through several pages and have found the info helpful. I have a couple of questions and hope someone can help.
I have an AVR with a sub out which I have split for two subs (L&R). I still have my old AVR which I will use to drive the Bass Shakers. Now since I have the LFE split already do I split the LFE input on both my subs to goto the DVD input of AVR 2 or can I use the LFE from one of my subs unused channels to goto AVR 2?
Will either scenario degrade the LFE? Or should I just try all possible combinations to see which works for me?

yesterday ive received 4 bass shakers and my Dayton SA240-B 240W Subwoofer Amplifier,i didnt go to school because i couldnt wait to feel them but since yesterday ive been trying ad looking 4 help and now i tired nothing works i have no clue how to connect them and how do connect the sub amp to the main reciver with the subwoofer sill working,ivx read half the pages here and i need pictures to see if im right and ive havnt find anything,thx alot and plz help im scared that i broke somthing,im not touching it any more 4 now loll...

cfurtado, are you using a line level RCA Y adapter on your sub out from your receiver and then connecting one of the outputs to your existing sub and the other into one of the line level inputs on the Dayton?

yes i found out how to connect it to the main amp now,but im still confused on how to connect the 4 shakers,right now i have 2 connect in series then joining in parelle,but nothing shakes ?

:eek:i was testing things out and now it just does a humming sound,and rumbles even when theres nothing playing..? loll im really bad i have no clue wat im doing :confused:

ok so,im not touching it any more 4 now,3 of them rumble with a with sound even when nothing is playing :mad: so 4 sure something ive done isnt right so 4 you people to understand better heres wat i did:http://cjoint.com/data/mpe3YIC8tC_3.JPG

im pretty sure it isnt right ?!!? :rolleyes:

It's a two wire system, or did you just use shorthand for your diagram?

There should be two wires coming from the amp

You have seven posts now, so give us a picture of what you've done before you burn your place down.

no,theres only 1 wire going to the amp,4 of the shakers are connected to it.

Your amp should have two wires: postive (red) and negative (black) wires or a set of two terminals for the 'speaker' hookup.

In the revised drawing, each line represents a single wire. the blobs near the amps are the wires spliced together with wire nuts.

http://mostlyharmless.org/theater/wires.jpg

no,theres only 1 wire going to the amp,4 of the shakers are connected to it.

That Dayton amp has 2 wires coming out of the back. A red one and a black one. You should use them both and connect things like jamis shows.

You are connecting the shakers using the wires that come out the back of the amp and not the binding posts on the front, correct?

That Dayton amp has 2 wires coming out of the back. A red one and a black one. You should use them both and connect things like jamis shows.

You are connecting the shakers using the wires that come out the back of the amp and not the binding posts on the front, correct?

To that point, here is a picture of my amp which should be pretty similar to the Dayton. The red and black wires coming out of the top are spliced with wire nuts with the wires out to the shakers. The red and black wires are what power the shakers (or subwoofer).

The RCA style plug on the bottom is from the LFE output on my receiver (Y-splitter)


http://www.mostlyharmless.org/theater/kick5.jpg

ok so connecting the amp to that main reciever is fixed,now its connecting the 4 shakers together,and there only 1 wire going to the amp...:confused:

ok so connecting the amp to that main reciever is fixed,now its connecting the 4 shakers together,and there only 1 wire going to the amp...:confused:

There is only one wire coming out the back of the amp? Might be a defect. There really should be two wires as in this picture of the back of the 240W dayton amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard_xtra/300-804_Sii.jpg

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

Just snip the metal connectors off and you have your red and black wires that you can splice into.

If the diagram and explanation that Jamis provided isn't sufficient you really may be better off calling in the Geek squad. I would leave your amp turned off because if you wire it incorrectly there is a chance you will short circuit the output and burn out the amp.

what i meant by 1 wire is that there 1 black 1 red on together,and the amp part im ok with,the y divison cable is seperating the sub and the shakers,now the problem is i dont know how to connect them together:confused:,like i saide my amp is 170 watts RMS @ 8 ohms 240 watts RMS @ 4 ohms,its the connecting the shakers that confuses me,by the ways theres 4 shakers;)

Hopefully this will clear things up... seek assistance from an electrician or geek-squad (as Big suggests) if this doesn't make sense...

http://mostlyharmless.org/theater/wires2.JPG

And imagine the bottom hand in this picture is holding the amp and the person is spicing together black wires #1 and #2 with the black wire on the amp using a wire nut.

http://mostlyharmless.org/theater/wirenut.jpg

Now I'm really confused I'm not left handed.

wow its working :D you cant imagine how happy iam,but the last shaker to the right,is weak,and what frequency should i set up on the amp,40-120 where should i point it at ? thx alot 4 everyones help,seriously thx :D:D

haha loll i just realised that there was already a diagram,i tought it was the one that i posted,im so dumb loll and its true im not left handed;) by the thx again:D i cant believe it works,im sorry if i made you you people frustrated:o

I set the crossover on the amp for my shakers as low as it could go (50Hz) so that I only get shaking on the lower bass tracks (such as explosions or rumbling). if you set it too high, you will get shaking on things you shouldn't such as dialog.

hi can anyone suggest a amp( closed box) for my 4 base shakers? i have them connected in serries....one going to the left channel of the old receiver and another going to the right channel....thanks
the amp is really old and ugly....


one more question...if i get rid of a love seat that has a bass shaker on it,then i will only have 3 shakers how do i connect the 3 in series?

or should i just connect 2 in series going to the left channel of the old receiver and the other chair (bass shaker) connected by itself to the right channel? thanks

ok i can't figure out the right way to hook my auro shakers up.

i have a denon 3808 as the main going into a svs poowered sub.
I'll be using a denon 3803 as the shaker amp.

what i cont figure out is what to put the split rca cable into on the back of the 3803 and what settings to use and what input, dvd, cd, phono?

i know how to run the speaker wires to the chairs i just don't know the rest.

Hi Guys

I'm just jumping on these now......so as I understand it, based on Jamis's diagram, I can replace the amp with a receiver? If yes, how would be the shakers connected to the receiver (i.e. into the speaker terminals?)

My main AVR is a Pio VSX1018 and I'd like to use a old Onkyo 504 (110w) to power up the 2 shakers. One shaker per recliner. My sub is a 10" powered Dayton.

I might go with 2 more for my couch later on if I like the performance on the 2 recliners.

Thanks

I know this thread goes all the way back to 2004 and pretty much all of the deal posts and pricing talk is no longer valid and/or the links are dead. I have been thinking about these off and on and seeing this thread pop back up has me wanting to pull the trigger now. Has anyone recently bought some and mind sharing deal / pricing details. Partsexpress the Aura Pro's @ 44.50 each. Is that the best bet on them as of late? Any details / links to others and tips on a current small amp to use would be greatly appreciated! I am looking to use 3 of them, one per seat. Thanks!

PE has better deals, just need to wait for them to come back... (34.92 I think) I just picked up some standard shakers for a good price on ebay, (12.95 I think) pros are also a decent price (29.95) from a seller... Other than that, you can find them here ever so often from people that have upgraded to better high-end equipment...

I bought 4 shakers and a dayton amp from someone on here and love them. Im only using two right now until I get a new sectional, but they work fantastic. Pe is probably the best place to get them.

I know this thread goes all the way back to 2004 and pretty much all of the deal posts and pricing talk is no longer valid and/or the links are dead. I have been thinking about these off and on and seeing this thread pop back up has me wanting to pull the trigger now. Has anyone recently bought some and mind sharing deal / pricing details. Partsexpress the Aura Pro's @ 44.50 each. Is that the best bet on them as of late? Any details / links to others and tips on a current small amp to use would be greatly appreciated! I am looking to use 3 of them, one per seat. Thanks!

I got mine for $35 each last fall and you can get a decent plate amp for $100-150 (Dayton or BASH in the 100-300 watt range). For three shakers, you could probably get away with the 70watt Dayton amp they carry for $70.

Couple of questions for you guys....

I just bought a pair of Berkline 12003 HT seats in the group buy from Ultimate Entertainment. I am interested in getting shakers, but have a few questions.

Do these shakers actually try and make a SOUND? Or is their sole purpose to shake the seat? I hear some people talking about how they "sound" bad. I was not under the impression that they made noise.

Second question.....how many Aura Pro's would I need to use per chair to get a good effect with my berklines? Would 1 per chair do it? And would you recommend that I put rubber isolating feet under the chairs to maximize the effect?

Hey guys do anyone of you have experience with the KLIPSCH Sub 12 BASH AMPLIFIER. I found one for a good price and was wondering if I should pick it up. Any help would be appreciated. :cool:

Can anyone link to or post details about a recommended amp that is NOT the plate style like this for sub boxes?

http://www.mostlyharmless.org/theater/kick5.jpg

This seems to be the most popular option, but I don't have anywhere to mount / hide something like this. Plus Im assuming you guys are either having to leave it powered on 24/7 or go to where ever you have it hiding to turn it on everytime going to watch a movie?

I am looking for one that is more or less just like a component? One that I can put in the stand/rack with the bluray player, receiver, power center, etc. and it will blend right in sitting next to the others on a shelf?

Any suggestions? Is there even ones like this? I will be using 3 shakers, so need one that will be able to do 3. Thanks

Any suggestions? Is there even ones like this? I will be using 3 shakers, so need one that will be able to do 3. Thanks

I'm using a Sherwood RX-4105

Seems to do the trick - got it connected to 4 shakers (2 on each L&R sppeaker output.

Hi Guys

I'm just jumping on these now......so as I understand it, based on Jamis's diagram, I can replace the amp with a receiver? If yes, how would be the shakers connected to the receiver (i.e. into the speaker terminals?)


Yes, you can use a receiver instead of an amp.

I'm using a Sherwood RX-4105. From the LFE output on my main AVR there is a splitter.....one leg to the subwoofer and ther other to the shaker receiver. At the shaker receiver I split the feed again into the L&R TV/AUX input. This enables me to be able to use both the L&R Speaker outputs that each drive 2 shakers.

Do these shakers actually try and make a SOUND? Or is their sole purpose to shake the seat? I hear some people talking about how they "sound" bad. I was not under the impression that they made noise.


Really depends how you set them up......in my case the shakers are screwed down onto a piece of MDF that is attached to the chair frame. I found if they are screwed too tight then you don't get enough vibration, if too loose you can hear the vibration.......I adjusted mine using a 30 to 49 hz test tone - with just the tone they still do generate some noise but I don't hear mine during a movie just feel them.



Second question.....how many Aura Pro's would I need to use per chair to get a good effect with my berklines? Would 1 per chair do it? And would you recommend that I put rubber isolating feet under the chairs to maximize the effect?

Depends on how much shake you want, I personally have the basic Aura's and a single shaker in each seat is sufficient.....IMO if its too much shake it distracts from the movie.

Can anyone link to or post details about a recommended amp that is NOT the plate style like this for sub boxes?

Weeeellll. If you're handy and have access to left over car audio (or inexpensive car audio), you could do like I did (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1082010): hook up a car audio amp to a 12V DC power supply. If the amp isn't overly large, a computer AT power supply will likely do the job. If the amp is too powerful, you can get decent dedicated power supplies (the kind used for signage or HAM radio buffs) for about $30. The amps I used were all rated down to 2 to 4 ohms, so they matched well.

The advantage for my situation, aside from having all the amps already available, is that car amps are quite compact and can be readily tucked into tight places.

Thanks for the replies so far!

After some searching around and a few calls a number of places highly recommended the Audio Source AMP-100 for the Shakers as the simplest and straight forward solution. Its 50 watts per channel and 150 bridged. Since I'm going to be running 3 shakers and they are 4 ohms each will just run them in series, flip the switch on the to mono, and 150x1 will give each shaker 50 just like Aura suggests.

Its just like I wanted, a component Vs plate and does have an auto-on feature so wont have to go to where ever the plate would have been mounted (but I'm sure some plate amps would also have an auto-on feed, don't know?)

Here it is;

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2045_25542944

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1332196

This is how it will be set for 3 shakers wired in series and bridging the amp (sub = 3 shakers)

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1429209

While searching around pricing for the AMP-100 there was a pretty big range, some upwards of $199 for it. I've been a fan of J&R for about 2 years now, their service has also been good and they don't hesitate to price match if not beat. I bought my last 2 receivers from them and some odds and ends. They ended up doing it for only $89.88 and free shipping too (just had to ask for it)! It not being a plate amp, blending right in on the rack/stand, having the auto-on, mono mode, and power that will be perfect for 3 pro shakers it was a no brainer, had to get it with a price of only $89.88

Now I only hope I can score as big on the Shakers as I did on the amp! Feel free to PM me or post your best find on the Pro's pricing!

hey kevinjs123 would the sub amp you bought from j&r work with two sets of three bass shakers?

hey kevinjs123 would the sub amp you bought from j&r work with two sets of three bass shakers?

Hope I don't confuse on this one, if so ask away. But I'm not a pro at this. Just did a lot of reading on it today since I decided to get them. I think this is correct. Please research a little more on your own

(assuming yours are 4ohm shakers)
You could use it for 6. Same set up with mono switch and bridged. However since you will have 6 you would end up with 2 sets of 3 wired in series, then those 2 sets wired in parallel to the amp. That will give you a 6ohm load. Would look like this

http://colomar.com/Shavano/6sp-spkr.gif

That using six will give you just over 26 watts each. Now I'm not saying that is bad, or good for that matter. I don't even have mine yet so not sure what the "acceptable" amount is. Do you have the Pros or standard shakers?

The amp states 4ohm as it lowest load stable so if you wanted to use all six with this one make sure you do NOT wire in parallel, with those 2 sets in series to the amp. That would drop to a 2.67 load and this little amp is def not 2ohm stable. That would look like this

http://colomar.com/Shavano/6sp_spk4.gif

Scored on Aura Shakers, Pros! Called Parts Express and mentioned the "recent sale" of $34.50 each, that I am looking to order 3, and just asked if she would still offer that price. After a few mins on hold she came back and said if I place the order now she would be able to split the difference but couldnt go down to the $34.50 b/c that sale ended 3 weeks ago (oops, not so recent I guess). So got 3 @ 39.50 each and they will be here in 2 days or less b/c they are only one state away. Even at $39.50 that is the cheapest I've seen anywhere so far for the Pro's, even on eBay.

Very happy with the deals on the amp and shakers I found. Now just have to pick up another sub cable, more speaker wire (ran out at the end of finsihing the rears and surrounds), and decide on how/where I want to mount them on the 13175s.

Thanks for the heads up on this Audio Source AMP-100 for the bass shakers. I have 3 Aura Pro shakers and never installed them due to my laziness to shop for an amp for these. J&R also has refurbished AMP-100's for $20 less which I'll probably go with since I'm cheap. :)

kevinjs123, I have a very similar situation with having bass shakers without an amplifier yet, and am looking forward to reading your updates. I have 3 Aura regular shakers, an Onkyo TXSR606 receiver, and HKTS 18 speakers. I am now looking for an amp for the 3 bass shakers and have narrowed down the choice between the AudioSource AMP-100 2-Channel Bridgeable Stereo Power Amplifier that you described and Dayton-APA150-150W-Power-Amplifier, both of which are in rack-ready chassis compared to the the typically used bare amps that have to be mounted. Thank you for your posts.

I like the looks of the Dayton amp.. it has it's own crossover. Granted the AMP-100 is cheaper.

I like the looks of the Dayton amp.. it has it's own crossover. Granted the AMP-100 is cheaper.

i did consider that one as well! i do like the look of it, but i guess what made me go with the AMP100 was it being half the cost, same power rating for how I would be running it (bridged), and my receiver has 2 sub outputs. Will use one directly to the sub itself and other to the AMP100 for the shakers and just use the crossover on the receiver

The AudioSource AMP-100 is much slimmer (in size and price) than the Dayton-APA150 and thus is a better choice, but I'd like to see if its combination with the 3 regular Aura bass shakers actually works. I'd order it as soon as someone demonstrates that it does work. I presume that the 3 shakers will be connected in series.

My Audiosource Amp-100 runs 3 regular shakers, and in the past I've had it running 6 with no problem. I have 3 in series for a 12 ohm load connected to the bridged Amp-100. When I used 6 I had ran the two sets of 3 in parallel for a load of 6 ohms bridged.

The AudioSource AMP-100 is much slimmer (in size and price) than the Dayton-APA150 and thus is a better choice, but I'd like to see if its combination with the 3 regular Aura bass shakers actually works. I'd order it as soon as someone demonstrates that it does work. I presume that the 3 shakers will be connected in series.


Exactly what I'm using and posted. 3 shakers wired in series and bridging the amp (sub = 3 shakers)

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/3s-spkr.gif

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1429209

If interested, just posted how/where I put mounted mine with Berkline 13175s

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1132624

Thanks for the updates. Just ordered the Audiosource AMP 100 from Amazon today. Is there any risk of the bass shakers overheating and setting the seats on fire? I can see the the Aura bass shaker PROs have heat sinks but not the regular ones.

Thanks for the updates. Just ordered the Audiosource AMP 100 from Amazon today. Is there any risk of the bass shakers overheating and setting the seats on fire? I can see the the Aura bass shaker PROs have heat sinks but not the regular ones.

Not likely, I've run 8 regular auras on a 500W amp for years with no problems playing movie tracks. The only time they got hot was when I did frequency response sweeps at full power on the riser.

I have printed out the entire thread and I am reading through it from start to finish. I am about 1/2 way through :)

I am particularly interested in adding these to Berkline 12000's. Any pics of how people have mounted to these (mine are motorized) would be appreciated.

I would also be interested in finding some local suppliers in Canada that would sell/stock these at similar rates to parts express.

Cheers

Any suggestions on what causes or how to stop the pop / thump that comes through when the amp turns on? I checked the wiring to make sure I didn't pinch one from seat to seat etc. Every time I power on the amp all 3 of the shakers get a quick pop or thump? Or the same if I have it in the auto on. Any time the amp powers up the shakers do it :confused: Anyone else have this?

Any time the amp powers up the shakers do it :confused: Anyone else have this?
I just got done wiring my 3 Auro Pro Shakers using the refurbished Audiosource Amp-100 and have it set up just like yours. I've turned it on and off several times now and don't experience a pop and/or thump. Could it be a grounding issue or possibly a faulty Audiosource amp?

Thanks for the replies so far!

After some searching around and a few calls a number of places highly recommended the Audio Source AMP-100 for the Shakers as the simplest and straight forward solution. Its 50 watts per channel and 150 bridged. Since I'm going to be running 3 shakers and they are 4 ohms each will just run them in series, flip the switch on the to mono, and 150x1 will give each shaker 50 just like Aura suggests.

Its just like I wanted, a component Vs plate and does have an auto-on feature so wont have to go to where ever the plate would have been mounted (but I'm sure some plate amps would also have an auto-on feed, don't know?)

Here it is;






http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2045_25542944

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1332196

This is how it will be set for 3 shakers wired in series and bridging the amp (sub = 3 shakers)

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1429209

While searching around pricing for the AMP-100 there was a pretty big range, some upwards of $199 for it. I've been a fan of J&R for about 2 years now, their service has also been good and they don't hesitate to price match if not beat. I bought my last 2 receivers from them and some odds and ends. They ended up doing it for only $89.88 and free shipping too (just had to ask for it)! It not being a plate amp, blending right in on the rack/stand, having the auto-on, mono mode, and power that will be perfect for 3 pro shakers it was a no brainer, had to get it with a price of only $89.88

Now I only hope I can score as big on the Shakers as I did on the amp! Feel free to PM me or post your best find on the Pro's pricing!


i have 4 shakers i think they are in series this is how i have them

the + from one going the - of the second one then it going to the left input of a old amp.....the other 2 are the exact same....is this serries or parallel?


will this work with this amp? and would i then run it in stereo or mono? thanks

I just got done wiring my 3 Auro Pro Shakers using the refurbished Audiosource Amp-100 and have it set up just like yours. I've turned it on and off several times now and don't experience a pop and/or thump. Could it be a grounding issue or possibly a faulty Audiosource amp?

lol, that's my luck! buy the new one and a bad one! I called Audio Source and tech had me try a few things and said it surely was defective. It hums / buzz when on and pops when on / off. He transferred my to JR and set-up a new return/exchange. Going to pack it up today and send back for another

i have 4 shakers i think they are in series this is how i have them

the + from one going the - of the second one then it going to the left input of a old amp.....the other 2 are the exact same....is this serries or parallel?


will this work with this amp? and would i then run it in stereo or mono? thanks

4 shakers in series would be a 16ohm, but the amp will see half of that if bridged making it a 8ohm. You should run in bridged mono to get the most out of the amp, 160x1 @ 8ohm which your load will be. Each shaker will get 40 watts. If you ran it stereo, 2 shakers per channel in series would be 8ohm per channel, but that would only be 50 per channel, each shaker getting 25 watts. Do all 4 in series, bridged, for most power.

Wiring would be

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/4s-spkr.gif

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1429209

4 shakers in series would be a 16ohm, but the amp will see half of that if bridged making it a 8ohm. You should run in bridged mono to get the most out of the amp, 160x1 @ 8ohm which your load will be. Each shaker will get 40 watts. If you ran it stereo, 2 shakers per channel in series would be 8ohm per channel, but that would only be 50 per channel, each shaker getting 25 watts. Do all 4 in series, bridged, for most power

what do you mean by bridged? and you have it going to the sub woofer why? do you mean base shaker not sub woofer?

the way i have it now is the main 5.1 receiver have a subwoofer out connection...i then have a y connector on that and 1 goes to the sub and the other goes to the phono input on my old amp then the speaker wires go from the old amp to the base shakers.....can i run the new amp the same way?

what do you mean by bridged? and you have it going to the sub woofer why? do you mean base shaker not sub woofer?

the way i have it now is the main 5.1 receiver have a subwoofer out connection...i then have a y connector on that and 1 goes to the sub and the other goes to the phono input on my old amp then the speaker wires go from the old amp to the base shakers.....can i run the new amp the same way?


bridged meaning you are combining two channels to make one to get more power. You will only be using one wire ( + -) running from amp to all 4 shakers. And yes, using the y the same way on receiver, it will go to Line Input 2, red

thanks for your help

for anyone still following this or considering an amp I just noticed the RITZ is selling the AMP100 for only $49.99! I thought this amp was a hell of deal @ $90 when I bought it. But @ only $49.99 it is :eek: ($6.95 shipping) esp if its main use is going to be shakers! Can not go wrong at this price at all!

http://www.ritzcamera.com/product/EP5217910.htm

for anyone still following this or considering an amp I just noticed the RITZ is selling the AMP100 for only $49.99! I thought this amp was a hell of deal @ $90 when I bought it. But @ only $49.99 it is :eek: ($6.95 shipping) esp if its main use is going to be shakers! Can not go wrong at this price at all!

http://www.ritzcamera.com/product/EP5217910.htm

Wow that's an amazing deal for the AMP100! I thought it was good when I bought the refurbished one from J&R. If I needed another one I'd jump on this deal for sure. Great deal on a perfect amp for bass shakers.

for anyone still following this or considering an amp I just noticed the RITZ is selling the AMP100 for only $49.99! I thought this amp was a hell of deal @ $90 when I bought it. But @ only $49.99 it is :eek: ($6.95 shipping) esp if its main use is going to be shakers! Can not go wrong at this price at all!

http://www.ritzcamera.com/product/EP5217910.htm

Crap I just bought it refurbed from J&R this week. And if that doesn't beat all, my daughter works at Wolf Camera and gets a 30% discount, and can order it to her store, so beating the shipping. Tax however is inevitable.

Bummer! :rolleyes:

I realize that everyone has been using the Sub-out and taking this to the seperate amp for the shakers. I have denon receiver that does not have a sub-out on the back. In this set up of the house I dont use a sub as I have definitive towers with powered subs in them. The back of the receiver does have the pre-out/main-in jacks. I thought that i have heard that you could use these to connect a sub if desired (is this true?). With this current Denon receiver, will I be able to set up these bass shakers? I have read the majority of this forum and I am really interested in getting some of these. Please someone let me know if there is a way to hook shakers up with my current receiver. THANKS
Fuj32

Crap I just bought it refurbed from J&R this week. And if that doesn't beat all, my daughter works at Wolf Camera and gets a 30% discount, and can order it to her store, so beating the shipping. Tax however is inevitable.

Bummer! :rolleyes:

is it still available?

is it still available?

Doesn't look like it.

has anyone tried this amp
Dayton APA150 150W Power Amplifier? how does it work well with the bass shakers? i was going to get the audiosource 100 but they are back ordered in canada? thanks

I just installed the dayton 240 watt plate amp with 3 aura pro bass shakers. I dont have much to compare it to but i must say i am thrilled with the result. The 240 watt amp is only a few dollars more than the other. Why not get the most power you can.

When using the bass shakers, has anyone used the phone input on the shaker receiver. It does make it much more sensitive. I tried this as I have heard others have too. Is this safe? Also, when not using phono, I have to have my secondary amp turned up half way. Is this okay. Is it okay to turn this shaker amp up more than half way???

What does anyone think?

I just placed my order for a couple of the pros. I am pretty excited to see what these do for movie enjoyment. I also ordered a Denon DRA 37 http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/3389.asp for a great price. I figured since it will handle a 4 ohm load, it would be perfect for this application. Great thread and info, thanks.

I used a pair of these mounted to peices of 2x4 which are mounted under my Flexsteel loveseat. I have them connected to a subwoofer amp wwhich is connected to the sub-out on my Denon receiver using a Y adapter. I learned how to wire them up by a thread here back in 2002. They work so well that I can turn off the subwoofer when my 2 little boys are in bed.

Wow, I can't believe that I have gone this long without trying these. I just finished my installation and I have to say they are fantastic...adds another dimension to movie viewing. I have a feeling that I am going to become spoiled from these! Best bang-or should I say shake- for the buck upgrade I've done in a while, highly recommended!

I have two rows of 4 chairs each and would like to connect 1 shaker to each chair. That is 4 shakers in each row. Can I connect 4 in series for each row with one row to the left speaker on the amp and the other row to the right? The amp is rated at 100 watts per channel @ 8 ohms. Thanks for your help.

I have two rows of 4 chairs each and would like to connect 1 shaker to each chair. That is 4 shakers in each row. Can I connect 4 in series for each row with one row to the left speaker on the amp and the other row to the right? The amp is rated at 100 watts per channel @ 8 ohms. Thanks for your help.4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.

4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.

Thanks JL. Will give it a try.

I have connected and it seems ok so far. Will fully test tomorrow. However I note that some have connected their powered sub to the shaker receiver by way of splitters. Does this enhance the sound? What's the purpose of this connection? Thanks for your response.

4 in series would be a 16 ohm load. Your amplifier would output approx. 50 watts per channel into a 16 ohm load.

Each shaker would then get roughly 12.5 watts. Certainly they will not be overpowered, and it is likely they will shake plenty enough.

I'd say give it a try.

If you amplifier can handle a 4 ohm load on each channel you could wire the shakers in series-parallel for a 4 ohm load to each channel. The amplifier would then be able to output a lot more power, somewhere between 150 and 200 watts per channel, but run much hotter.

Joe L.

I would like to try another configuration as in the attached. Would this work?

I would like to try another configuration as in the attached. Would this work?The series parallel combination you 've drawn would be an 8 ohm load for a single channel of an amplifier. It could not be split across the left and right channels of most amplifiers. It could be done if the amplifier was of the type that allowed bridging of the two channels to make a higher powered single channel. (Many "pro" amplifiers allow this, no consumer amplifiers in old receivers will work)

The problem is that both channels are in phase in most receivers... When fed an identical signal from a splitter, when the output voltage on the left channel goes positive, the right channel does exactly the same. If you were to measure the potential between the left and right channel you would measure no difference at all. If no voltage difference, no output to the shakers. To work as a "bridged" amplifier, one of the inputs to the two channels must be 180 degrees out of phase. Then, when one output is going positive, the other channel is going negative, thus doubling the output voltage available, resulting in increased output. Problem is, most amplifiers are not made to be bridged, and most do not contain the extra inverter stage.

Instead of using two channels, you could use just one channel of your stereo amplifier, leaving the other unconnected. The 100 watts from the one channel would be evenly split among the 8 shakers, resulting in about 12.5 watts per shaker.

Interesting on how physics works... same power as before. Only now, the one set of drivers in the amplifier are doing all the work, and the other are doing nothing. If it was me, I'd rather they all share the work, and not have to work as hard. Back to your original configuration..., 4 in series connected to each channel, for a 16 ohm load on each channel.

Joe L.

The series parallel combination you 've drawn would be an 8 ohm load for a single channel of an amplifier. It could not be split across the left and right channels of most amplifiers. It could be done if the amplifier was of the type that allowed bridging of the two channels to make a higher powered single channel. (Many "pro" amplifiers allow this, no consumer amplifiers in old receivers will work)

The problem is that both channels are in phase in most receivers... When fed an identical signal from a splitter, when the output voltage on the left channel goes positive, the right channel does exactly the same. If you were to measure the potential between the left and right channel you would measure no difference at all. If no voltage difference, no output to the shakers. To work as a "bridged" amplifier, one of the inputs to the two channels must be 180 degrees out of phase. Then, when one output is going positive, the other channel is going negative, thus doubling the output voltage available, resulting in increased output. Problem is, most amplifiers are not made to be bridged, and most do not contain the extra inverter stage.

Instead of using two channels, you could use just one channel of your stereo amplifier, leaving the other unconnected. The 100 watts from the one channel would be evenly split among the 8 shakers, resulting in about 12.5 watts per shaker.

Interesting on how physics works... same power as before. Only now, the one set of drivers in the amplifier are doing all the work, and the other are doing nothing. If it was me, I'd rather they all share the work, and not have to work as hard. Back to your original configuration..., 4 in series connected to each channel, for a 16 ohm load on each channel.

Joe L.

Thanks J.L Really appreciate your help. I Guess that's it unless I get a bigger amp.

I searched this thread for "second zone" + "2nd zone" and saw nobody using my idea below to run shakers and 5 speakers from the same receiver. I'm going to do this for my brother's theater to save some money.

Here's what to do:

- Split the sub out as you normally would to connect to external amp.

- With the connection that would normally go to an external shaker amp, split again with a 1 male to 2 male splitter(I'll use RCA barrel connectors to get this).

- Connect those 2 male connections to any unused L+R RCA input(AUX, CD, TAPE, etc...) on your receiver.

- Set your 2nd zone input to the connection you used

- Hook your shakers to your 6th and 7th speaker outputs that will now play whatever is coming from you subwoofer preout.

- Use your 2nd zone volume control to match the levels of the shakers to your system

Now when you adjust your master volume it control the shakers ouput as well and they're crossed over at the same point as your sub(although lower would be preferable).

This will only work if you have a 7.1 multizone receiver in which you are only using 5 speakers. If this has already been covered I apologize, I just wanted to pass along my idea.

Hey guys,

Great forum, great thread and great input from everyone. I took my time and I've read all 37 pages of this thread and I believe I finally have a question that someone has yet to ask!!!

Has anyone attempted to attach a separate Receiver to a Bose Lifestyle system?

I've yet to make the purchase for the Bose Lifestyle V30 system but I have downloaded the user manual and I cannot find ANYTHING in the manual indicating a LFE? Don't get me wrong, I know there is a SUB output for the Acoustimass Subwoofer but it does not look like it is a RCA output? I can't tell from the actual user manual but the hook up from the Subwoofer to the Bose receiver appears to be one of those special "Bose" only adapters? Or am I mistaken?

I like the Bose system because it provides big sound yet it is so compact and though some people might think they are overpriced I'm OK with that. I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.

My question in regards to making an informed decision is....If I purchase the Bose Lifestyle V30 system is it going to be as simple as:

1. Purchasing the Bose Lifestyle V30 system
2. Purchase some 50HZ fmods
2. Run the Y splitter from the sub output (on the Bose system) to the sub and the additional receiver
3. Tune the receiver to my optimal settings

I know I still have to go through the gambit of mounting the Shakers, wiring them for the correct ohm load and all of that other stuff but I just want to focus on the compatibility of hooking up an additional receiver to a Bose Lifestyle V30 system...

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,
Austin

Gosh, did I reiterate "Bose Lifestyle V30 system" enough in this thread...ha

Hey guys,

Great forum, great thread and great input from everyone. I took my time and I've read all 37 pages of this thread and I believe I finally have a question that someone has yet to ask!!!

Has anyone attempted to attach a separate Receiver to a Bose Lifestyle system?

I've yet to make the purchase for the Bose Lifestyle V30 system but I have downloaded the user manual and I cannot find ANYTHING in the manual indicating a LFE? Don't get me wrong, I know there is a SUB output for the Acoustimass Subwoofer but it does not look like it is a RCA output? I can't tell from the actual user manual but the hook up from the Subwoofer to the Bose receiver appears to be one of those special "Bose" only adapters? Or am I mistaken?

I like the Bose system because it provides big sound yet it is so compact and though some people might think they are overpriced I'm OK with that. I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.

My question in regards to making an informed decision is....If I purchase the Bose Lifestyle V30 system is it going to be as simple as:

1. Purchasing the Bose Lifestyle V30 system
2. Purchase some 50HZ fmods
2. Run the Y splitter from the sub output (on the Bose system) to the sub and the additional receiver
3. Tune the receiver to my optimal settings

I know I still have to go through the gambit of mounting the Shakers, wiring them for the correct ohm load and all of that other stuff but I just want to focus on the compatibility of hooking up an additional receiver to a Bose Lifestyle V30 system...

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,
Austin

Gosh, did I reiterate "Bose Lifestyle V30 system" enough in this thread...haThe bose output is for their "Acoustimass® module" and not for a subwoofer. That module is used to reproduce everything below about 300 Hz down. It is NOT a subwoofer, and they don't even call it one. It is more like a mid-woofer. The frequencies it reproduces include fundamental frequencies of most male voices. Make sure, if you get it, to put that module in the center below your screen, otherwise, male voices will seem to come from the corner of the room, or from behind the couch, or wherever you put the bose Acoustimass® module.

If you've not yet purchased the bose unit, please consider other alternatives... There are so many with MUCH better performance at far less cost that have a true LFE output for the shakers. Even a lot with small satellite speakers.
See this link for more details: http://www.intellexual.net/bose.html

The bose units are perfect for hiding the speakers, and interior decorators love them. they are almost never displayed where you can compare them with other speakers side-by-side, because they really cannot compare to far less expensive units in their ability to reproduce music. Oh, they sound ok, but once you try to increase the volume, or play something with real bass, like most movies today, you'll find them lacking... the marketing of them is very refined... and that is where much of the cost of the Bose units is reflected...

Of course, if you are in an apartment, or have close neighbors where the bass might annoy them, then the combination of the bose unit and the shakers might just work perfectly for you if you can figure out how to attach a separate amplifier and get a true LFE output. Then you'll get some sensation of the bass in the movies, but not have to deal with much vibration from their Acoustimass module.

Joe L.

As they say a Picture is worth 1000 words...this has been asked about and discussed many times, so I thought I'd share how I installed my Aura Pro Bass Shakers into each Showtime recliner seat.

As you can see I used some left over OSB sheets, I believe they were 1/2" or 3/4". And I cut them via table saw so that length-wise they will reach the front and back wooden frames of the seat so I can have something to screw the OSB panel to. I believe the width was about 15"...and the length is about 30"...give or take. I took exact measurements at the time and cut 8 OSB sheets to size. Then I found a center spot where I can mount the shakers and at the same time tested the reclining mechanism and movement to make sure the shakers were never in the way of the movement or grind up against the reclining mechanism. Once I found the sweet spot, I mounted them onto the OSB using 4 screws.

Also it's good to mention that I used two Series/Parellel connections, one for the front row and one going into the back row both going into the 4ohm 200watts per channel stereo amp made by Behringer. So I was able to achieve the low 4ohm settings through each shaker, so needless to say these things rated at 50watts/4ohm each will shake your butt off!

Enough talking, here are the pictures....Remember with the showtime seats, you will have to take the back pad off anf lip the seat over. If you need more info or you're curious to see the rest of my theater, feel free to check out my completed construction thread, you will be pleasantly surprised. Feel free to leave any comments on the construction thread as well.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06888.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06889.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06890.jpg

As they say a Picture is worth 1000 words...this has been asked about and discussed many times, so I thought I'd share how I installed my Aura Pro Bass Shakers into each Showtime recliner seat.

As you can see I used some left over OSB sheets, I believe they were 1/2" or 3/4". And I cut them via table saw so that length-wise they will reach the front and back wooden frames of the seat so I can have something to screw the OSB panel to. I believe the width was about 15"...and the length is about 30"...give or take. I took exact measurements at the time and cut 8 OSB sheets to size. Then I found a center spot where I can mount the shakers and at the same time tested the reclining mechanism and movement to make sure the shakers were never in the way of the movement or grind up against the reclining mechanism. Once I found the sweet spot, I mounted them onto the OSB using 4 screws.

Also it's good to mention that I used two Series/Parellel connections, one for the front row and one going into the back row both going into the 4ohm 200watts per channel stereo amp made by Behringer. So I was able to achieve the low 4ohm settings through each shaker, so needless to say these things rated at 50watts/4ohm each will shake your butt off!

Enough talking, here are the pictures....Remember with the showtime seats, you will have to take the back pad off anf lip the seat over. If you need more info or you're curious to see the rest of my theater, feel free to check out my completed construction thread, you will be pleasantly surprised. Feel free to leave any comments on the construction thread as well.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06888.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06889.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee88/damnsam77/Home%20Theater%20Construction%202008/DSC06890.jpg
Looks good.

I hope that the screws that you used to attach the shakers to the OSB do not extend past the top surface of the OSB. Otherwise, they could impale the bottom of a person who sits down quickly and stretches the springs holding the seat. It is hard to see the clearance you have, hopefully it is way more than sufficient.

Yes, I agree, much more than 15-20 watts per shaker will probably cause them to bottom out on some scenes. I like them when their effect is subtle, but evident... but then again, I have a pair of 18" subwoofers, each in a 12.5 cubic-foot cabinet, with a total of 13L of linear displacement to fill out the experience. :eek:

Joe L.

J. L.;16912922]The bose output is for their "Acoustimass® module" and not for a subwoofer. That module is used to reproduce everything below about 300 Hz down. It is NOT a subwoofer, and they don't even call it one. It is more like a mid-woofer. The frequencies it reproduces include fundamental frequencies of most male voices. Make sure, if you get it, to put that module in the center below your screen, otherwise, male voices will seem to come from the corner of the room, or from behind the couch, or wherever you put the bose Acoustimass® module.

Dang, I did everything in my power not to get punked for my post but I should have known the AV studs on here would put me in my place.

Thank you for better defining "Acoustimass" for me my good sir... =)

If you've not yet purchased the bose unit, please consider other alternatives... There are so many with MUCH better performance at far less cost that have a true LFE output for the shakers. Even a lot with small satellite speakers.
See this link for more details: url -not allowed but it was an informative one...

Funny how a little bug in your ear (JL) can change a persons perspective on the direction you want to take on a home theater system.... =)

The bose units are perfect for hiding the speakers, and interior decorators love them. they are almost never displayed where you can compare them with other speakers side-by-side, because they really cannot compare to far less expensive units in their ability to reproduce music. Oh, they sound ok, but once you try to increase the volume, or play something with real bass, like most movies today, you'll find them lacking... the marketing of them is very refined... and that is where much of the cost of the Bose units is reflected...

Of course, if you are in an apartment, or have close neighbors where the bass might annoy them, then the combination of the bose unit and the shakers might just work perfectly for you if you can figure out how to attach a separate amplifier and get a true LFE output. Then you'll get some sensation of the bass in the movies, but not have to deal with much vibration from their Acoustimass module.

Joe L.

I see where you are going with this. My main reasoning behind wanting a Bose system was because I didn't want to have to start from scratch... All good points though and I agree that they are overpriced for sure... I'll just take my time and do things right. The Bass Shakers will just have to wait a bit longer...

I appreciate your time and I look forward to following and contributing to this forum from now on...!

Dang, I did everything in my power not to get punked for my post but I should have known the AV studs on here would put me in my place.

Thank you for better defining "Acoustimass" for me my good sir... =)



Funny how a little bug in your ear (JL) can change a persons perspective on the direction you want to take on a home theater system.... =)



I see where you are going with this. My main reasoning behind wanting a Bose system was because I didn't want to have to start from scratch... All good points though and I agree that they are overpriced for sure... I'll just take my time and do things right. The Bass Shakers will just have to wait a bit longer...

I appreciate your time and I look forward to following and contributing to this forum from now on...!It was you who said in your post:
I just don't want to invest $2+K into a home theater system with what I know will be "sub-par" low-end performance without the ability to upgrade.


If you purchase the Bose system, there is no upgrade path... other than to sell it and replace it with something better suited for your needs.

You did not seem too concerned by the 2K+ cost. That gives you TONS of options. I'd look in the "Home-Theater-in-a-box" forum for some ideas if you want an all in one solution... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=109

Or, of course, there are many other possibilities if you simply want to pick up separates. There are others on AVS who can give you lots of advice... You just need to filter out their suggestions to match your needs. Since AVS itself sells AV equipment, why not give them a call and ask their suggestions for a package to meet your price.

The Bose system does not reproduce the low bass in today's movies. Not even close. It certainly cannot do it in any size room. (Basic physics... to make loud, low frequency sounds you must pressurize the air in the room. The lower the frequency, the more air you MUST move to pressurize it to the same loudness/sound-pressure-level)

It is why you can hear decent bass with earphones, but will never hear subwoofer bass at 20Hz from their accousticmass module, With an earphone the diaphragm must only pressurize the air in your ear canal. The small speakers in the Bose can only move a small amount of air at low frequencies to pressurize it. I think I've read they have 5 or 6" cones.

To reproduce bass in a living room or theater of any size requires a speaker with a fair amount of displacement (the cone must move in and out a fair amount) Most home theater grade subwoofers have at least a 10 or 12" diameter woofer if they are going to reproduce really low frequencies. Even then, they will be limited in how loud they can get by the excursion limits of the driver suspension. (Any driver can move its diaphragm slowly, the real question is can it move enough air to get to the required sound-pressure-level in the space it is being used.) You can see the drivers I used in my subwoofers in this thread: http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/216369/diy-proscenium-subwoofer/0

Unfortunately, the Bose Acoustamass module does not even have a published frequency response. They do say the whole system goes down to 40Hz or so. That is about two octaves above much of the material on today's DVDs.

Here is a dedicated thread on the V30. It describes ow it is unable to deal with sound on BlueRay disks... another possible consideration as you consider it. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=988485 They too suggest the accoustimass module be near the center channel so voices are not coming from the corner of the room.

Here is another thread on the V30: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=950338

Good luck in your decision, and in your purchase. Everybody has their own needs, and their own budget, and their own likes and dislikes. I can tell you one thing, people who visit my theater first are in awe of the size of the 110" screen, but when they leave, all they can talk about is the way it sounds. You can get immersed in a movie... visually and aurally. the shakers are just part of that experience...

Give AVS a call... they'll make a few suggestions, and you can decide what is best for you.

Joe L.

Good luck in your decision, and in your purchase. Everybody has their own needs, and their own budget, and their own likes and dislikes. I can tell you one thing, people who visit my theater first are in awe of the size of the 110" screen, but when they leave, all they can talk about is the way it sounds. You can get immersed in a movie... visually and aurally. the shakers are just part of that experience...

Give AVS a call... they'll make a few suggestions, and you can decide what is best for you.

Joe L.

Joe, thanks again for the great info... Money isn't necessairly a huge concern but I definitely want to make the most informed decision I possibly can.

So, I've moved on from the thought of "BOSE"... Now I am leaning towards the Onyko HT-S9100THX system. I spent the last few days reading the manual and it has the LFE out to feed the secondary receiver.

I have another quick question for you JL...

I've read that people have split their LFE signal more than once and I see no mention of how many times you can get away with doing this without "pushing the limit too far".

With that said, here is my question.

Would I be able to purchase another idential sub to make it a 7.2 setup? In theory would I be able to make it a 7.4 setup by simply splitting the LFE channel multiple times and hooking up several subs?

I just know I am going to find out that the SKW-960 sub cannot be sold sepatetely, which will obviously through off my potential plans of hooking up 2 subs in addition to the bass shakers, but I am just attempting to gague my thought process on the multiple sub application...

Anyway, let me know...

Thanks.

BTW, I found (what I think) is a good deal on a pair of the Bass Shaker "Pros".
http://www.discounthomeautomation.com/Aurasound-Bass-Shakers-Pair-50W-AAST2B4?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=1970&cvsfe=2&cvsfp=AAST2B4

Joe, thanks again for the great info... Money isn't necessairly a huge concern but I definitely want to make the most informed decision I possibly can.

So, I've moved on from the thought of "BOSE"... Now I am leaning towards the Onyko HT-S9100THX system. I spent the last few days reading the manual and it has the LFE out to feed the secondary receiver.

The Onyko HT-S9100THX looks like a HUGE upgrade from the "lifestyles" system you were originally considering. The subwoofer actually goes down to 20Hz. I think you'll be happy.

I personally have a much older Onkyo Envision HT-in-a-box system in my den. I think I purchased it about 8 or 9 years ago. At the time, the MSRP was a bit over $1100. I was able to find it for 3/4 of that... The DVD player is integrated in the receiver. You can see mine here (http://www.1388.com/news/product_news/11-12-00/index.html). Its sound is a huge upgrade from the speakers in the den TV, but nowhere near that I have in my theater with full size speakers.

I have another quick question for you JL...

I've read that people have split their LFE signal more than once and I see no mention of how many times you can get away with doing this without "pushing the limit too far".

With that said, here is my question.

Would I be able to purchase another idential sub to make it a 7.2 setup? In theory would I be able to make it a 7.4 setup by simply splitting the LFE channel multiple times and hooking up several subs?
Yes, you can split the LFE output quite a few times and not have any problem at all.

I just know I am going to find out that the SKW-960 sub cannot be sold sepatetely, which will obviously through off my potential plans of hooking up 2 subs in addition to the bass shakers, but I am just attempting to gague my thought process on the multiple sub application...

Anyway, let me know...

Thanks.

The subwoofers do not have to be Onkyo... all they need is an LFE input, and turn themselves on when they get a signal. Those are available in 90% of all subwoofers. If you add an additional subwoofer, it does not have to be identical to the first. Don't get hung up thinking you need to have them match. Most people only have 1 subwoofer... Rarely do you see two, you might want to delay your purchase of a second until you see what one will do in your room.
BTW, I found (what I think) is a good deal on a pair of the Bass Shaker "Pros".
http://www.discounthomeautomation.com/Aurasound-Bass-Shakers-Pair-50W-AAST2B4?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=1970&cvsfe=2&cvsfp=AAST2B4
It does look like a great price.

Have fun... Looks like you'll have a better sounding system than most everybody you know.

Joe L.

Have fun... Looks like you'll have a better sounding system than most everybody you know.

Joe L.

Joe, I know we just met but....

I...

I love you...

I ordered 4 today! Looking forward to giving these a test run! This thread has been great...

Does anyone have any recommendations for an decent priced amp that can drive my 3-4 Aura Pro's and that can I can program my Logitech remote to turn it on? I am currently using and old Onkyo but I have a new Onkyo 705 and my problem is that when I press my activity button on my logitech remote it turns one receiver on but not the other. I guess they both use the same IR signal.

I use a BASH subwoofer plate amp which has an 'Auto' setting. This puts the amp in standby mode automatically after a short period of inactivity and turns it back on with an LFE signal.

This amp has that feature as well and should power 4 shakers without a problem: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

Not sure whats going on with your Onkyos....

I used an old, lying around Insignia 2 channel receiver and put one each Aura Pro in recliners. Borrowed some ideas from here on connections and mounting the shaker.

Dunno why I did not do it before. I watched the Lost pilot episode's beginning, the airplane crash scene. The feeling of sound is so nice...

Thanks to all you geniuses here at AVS.

Ok guys,

I have ran into a rather unique situation that I have yet to see anyone come accross.

I recently bought the Definitive Technology Supercube II and a Yamaha receiver. I'll give the model of the Yamaha if it is really necessary but it has nothing with the receiver as far as I can tell...

My Yamaha receiver has the LFE out. I have the Y adapter connected to the LFE out with one side going to the Def Tech Sub but when I split the other side to feed my Insignia amp to it's CD input it kills the Def Tech Sub? I've tried to input into the phono input on the Insigna receive and I get the same thing.

Has anyone had trouble splitting the signal from their LFE output?

What am I doing wrong?

Pissing me off because I want to try these out SUPER bad...

Ok guys,

I have ran into a rather unique situation that I have yet to see anyone come accross.

I recently bought the Definitive Technology Supercube II and a Yamaha receiver. I'll give the model of the Yamaha if it is really necessary but it has nothing with the receiver as far as I can tell...

My Yamaha receiver has the LFE out. I have the Y adapter connected to the LFE out with one side going to the Def Tech Sub but when I split the other side to feed my Insignia amp to it's CD input it kills the Def Tech Sub? I've tried to input into the phono input on the Insigna receive and I get the same thing.

Has anyone had trouble splitting the signal from their LFE output?

What am I doing wrong?

Pissing me off because I want to try these out SUPER bad...It almost sounds as if the splitter or cable used to feed the Insigna receiver is defective.

Test it by putting the splitter and new cable into place, but do not plug the far end of the cable used to feed the Insignia in at all. Just leave it unplugged.

If the sound is still not present, try with just the splitter and no attached cable. If you just put the splitter into place and no sound results, it is defective. if the sound goes away when you attach the cable to the splitter, but not plugged into the 2nd amplifier, then it is probably shorted.

If the sound is present, but then goes away only when you make the last connection to the Insigna amplifier, then I will be very surprised. It would indicate a very low impedance input on the receiver and a very high output impedance on the LFE output on your Yamaha.

Joe L.

Papalock,

I am also using the Insignia Receiver/amp. On that, the tape input is linked to aux output. So, I have connected the LFE from Onkyo receiver to Tape input on insignia, and Aux output to powered sub. It works fine.

Check if yours is also like this and give it a try. I can post the Insignia model no if you want.

Popalock,

I am also using the Insignia Receiver/amp. On that, the tape input is linked to aux output. So, I have connected the LFE from Onkyo receiver to Tape input on insignia, and Aux output to powered sub. It works fine.

Check if yours is also like this and give it a try. I can post the Insignia model no if you want.

Hey, thanks... Your way sounds bretty unique.

I ended up just splitting the LFE out of my Yamaha Reciever and sending the LFE signal to the CD input and my DefTech Supercube II. It was weird for a second though. It wasn't working then all of a sudden I unplugged everything, plugged it back in and powered it up and everything was working fine!

Soooo....

Now, I have a set up I am super proud of!!!!

Samsung LN52B750 LCD
Yamaha RX-V465 Reciever
Bose Acoustimass Speakers
Definitive Technologies Supercube II Sub
Insignia NS-R2000 Reciever (100 x 2) - For the Bass Shakers
PS3 Bluray

Oh, and the Bass Shaker Pro's ROCK! They totally compliment the Supercube... I pushed them hard when I first got them and they were SUPER over the top so I think the original Bass Shakers would to the trick just fine.

I'd hook you guys up with pictures of the install but we are actually getting rid of our couch in a few days and getting a brand new furniture setup in our living room.

I'd like to thank everyone for their help and I can't say enough about how helpful this forum is...

v/r,
Austin

Oh, and the Bass Shaker Pro's ROCK! They totally compliment the Supercube... I pushed them hard when I first got them and they were SUPER over the top so I think the original Bass Shakers would to the trick just fine.

I'm certain they would... because the original Bass-Shakers and the Pro versions are absolutely identical internally. The differences are the fins on the outside of the "pro" version, and the binding posts... and, of course the cost.

According to correspondence with Aura, inside they are the same. When fed with identical level signals, they shake the same. The "pro" versions are apparently able to handle more power (supposedly, the fins will let them dissipate heat better), but both versions will reach their excursion limits way before their power rating is reached.

Glad you enjoy the way your system is sounding. I am going to guess it can blow away the Bose system you were originally considering.

Joe L.

Hi all.

Thanks to this thread I got myself a pair of Aura Bass shakers and think they are pretty cool. I do have a slight problem though.

They are attached to my sofa which is upstairs. When the shakers are in use I can hear a booming noise downstairs. This is with or without my sub-woofer turned on.

Has anyone else had this problem?

If I wanted to attach these shakers to the bottom of a seating riser that is approx. 7.5' x 16' how many shakers would be required?

I realize there is always some ambiguity as some will want more "shake" than others... :-).

But I would appreciate it if any of you have experience with this type of set-up.

This sale price of $34.50 was that for ONE Base Shaker... or one PAIR of Base Shakers??

And were they the Pro model or the older standard model??

thx

If I have two rows of seating... with four chairs in each row...

Do I need a shaker on each individual chair... or can I mount two or three to the bottom of the riser that the set of 4 is sitting on.

I am not going for an "earthquake" simulation, but enough to add another dimension to the movie experience.

Thanks for your response.

If I have two rows of seating... with four chairs in each row...

Do I need a shaker on each individual chair... or can I mount two or three to the bottom of the riser that the set of 4 is sitting on.

I am not going for an "earthquake" simulation, but enough to add another dimension to the movie experience.

Thanks for your response.
I'd probably go with at least one per seat... and probably more, since it is MUCH harder to shake the entire platform than a single chair. So, from 6 to 8 per riser is a good start, you might need a lot more if your riser is not isolated from the floor.

When you start to shake risers, you need a LOT of mass. A Buttkicker is is a better fit for the purpose than a set of "Aura-shakers", but they need between 400 and 1500 watts each to function... and perhaps two per riser, with the riser mounted on rubber isolators. See http://www.thebuttkicker.com/

J.L. Thank you for the response...

Sounds like I would be better served to mount them directly to the seating rather than the riser.

So if all 4 seats in each row are coupled together would I need 4 per row or would 2 per row do the trick?

If I need 1 per seat then for my 8 seats then from what I have read I will need to order a second amp as I purchased the Dayton SA240 that was mentioned earlier in this thread. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

Pardon my silly question but shoud'nt bass shaker be mounted on some sort of wood platform on which the legs of the seat would stand so to recreate the true effect of shaking? I mean for example if you are watching jurassic park when a t-rex walk or run across the land in real world you would feel the vibration through the feet first then the rest of your body. I remember reading about it a while ago i don't know if it is on this forum or another one .

J.L. Thank you for the response...

Sounds like I would be better served to mount them directly to the seating rather than the riser.

So if all 4 seats in each row are coupled together would I need 4 per row or would 2 per row do the trick?

If I need 1 per seat then for my 8 seats then from what I have read I will need to order a second amp as I purchased the Dayton SA240 that was mentioned earlier in this thread. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

Pardon my silly question but shoud'nt bass shaker be mounted on some sort of wood platform on which the legs of the seat would stand so to recreate the true effect of shaking? I mean for example if you are watching jurassic park when a t-rex walk or run across the land in real world you would feel the vibration through the feet first then the rest of your body. I remember reading about it a while ago i don't know if it is on this forum or another one .

Yes it would probably be "best" that way... (unless you put the shakers under the house and shake the whole house :D).

However, from what was mentioned to accomplish that requires quite a bit more power and expense...which is pretty typical for the best experience.

J.L. Thank you for the response...

Sounds like I would be better served to mount them directly to the seating rather than the riser.

So if all 4 seats in each row are coupled together would I need 4 per row or would 2 per row do the trick?

If I need 1 per seat then for my 8 seats then from what I have read I will need to order a second amp as I purchased the Dayton SA240 that was mentioned earlier in this thread. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

With 8 shakers you are somewhat limited in how they can be connected to a single channel amplifier and still all shake the same amount.

The shakers are 4 ohms, so all 8 in parallel would result in a load of .5 ohms... way to low for any plate amplifier.

If you put 4 in series it would be a 16 ohm load. Put two strings of 4 in parallel and you get a nice 8 ohm load and they will all shake the same amount.

The amplifier you linked to is rated at 170 watts into 8 ohms. That would be 170/8, or 21.25 watts per shaker. Since most people use less than that, you'll be fine with a single amplifier. (The shakers can handle more power before they reach their thermal limits and burn up, but they reach their mechanical limits way before that point. You'll be really close to their shaking limits with that kind of power.

I have a much smaller plate amplifier feeding 8 shakers in my theater... it is probably less than 100 watts, and it is plenty.

Joe L.

With 8 shakers you are somewhat limited in how they can be connected to a single channel amplifier and still all shake the same amount.

The shakers are 4 ohms, so all 8 in parallel would result in a load of .5 ohms... way to low for any plate amplifier.

If you put 4 in series it would be a 16 ohm load. Put two strings of 4 in parallel and you get a nice 8 ohm load and they will all shake the same amount.

The amplifier you linked to is rated at 170 watts into 8 ohms. That would be 170/8, or 21.25 watts per shaker. Since most people use less than that, you'll be fine with a single amplifier. (The shakers can handle more power before they reach their thermal limits and burn up, but they reach their mechanical limits way before that point. You'll be really close to their shaking limits with that kind of power.

I have a much smaller plate amplifier feeding 8 shakers in my theater... it is probably less than 100 watts, and it is plenty.

Joe L.

Thanks Joe...... looks like I need to call up and order another 4 shakers...:D

With 8 shakers you are somewhat limited in how they can be connected to a single channel amplifier and still all shake the same amount.

The shakers are 4 ohms, so all 8 in parallel would result in a load of .5 ohms... way to low for any plate amplifier.

If you put 4 in series it would be a 16 ohm load. Put two strings of 4 in parallel and you get a nice 8 ohm load and they will all shake the same amount.

The amplifier you linked to is rated at 170 watts into 8 ohms. That would be 170/8, or 21.25 watts per shaker. Since most people use less than that, you'll be fine with a single amplifier. (The shakers can handle more power before they reach their thermal limits and burn up, but they reach their mechanical limits way before that point. You'll be really close to their shaking limits with that kind of power.

I have a much smaller plate amplifier feeding 8 shakers in my theater... it is probably less than 100 watts, and it is plenty.

Joe L.

So I would want to wire the shakers as two rows of 4:

Similar to this image which only shows two rows of 3.

Thanks again.

So I would want to wire the shakers as two rows of 4:

Similar to this image which only shows two rows of 3.

Thanks again.Exactly.

Thank you