Have tried a pile of titles and the conclusion is this. Non anamorphic discs haven't worked. Anamorphic or Enhanced for widescreen discs all work. Some earlier Paramount discs were in Widescreen but not anamorphic or enhanced ie. Star Trek. Collector editions have been fixed to allow upconverting.

Originally posted by skro
I have a similar question to that of goblehipcom.

I love my dvb-318, and have it playing on a Hitachi 51s715 CRT RPTV. The only problem is that I have a coulple of white "blobs" on the top center of the screen. They are pretty apparatent during dark scenes, and occur both during 16:9 films (in dark scenes) and constantly in 2.35:1 films (but are only really apparent during dark scenes).

It seems like there is a bit of "white" being displayed at the top of the picture which causes a sort of white "bleeding" to occur in two or three spots at the top center of the tv, extending about 1-2 inches downward.

I do not have a problem with digital cable at all, so I think it is the fault of the dvb-318. Is there any way to adjust the verticle centering of the dvb-318. I think if i could move it up a 1/4 inch or so it would take care of the problem. I don't want to mess with my tv's veritcal centereing, since it seems fine for all tv and my xbox.

Also, I have noticed this problem when using two separate component inputs, supporting my idea that it is not my tv's fault.

any suggestions?

I have this exact same problem with my Hitachi 51f510 and the dvb318.

Are there any other fixes other than unplugging the unit for a while? Nothing seems to work for me and the "white blobs" at the top of the screen are becoming more annoying, especially in dark scenes.

I use the player over component. Sadly I can't even try it over DVI since the Hitachi TV has an HDMI input and no matter what I do the dvb318 locks up when hooked up to it.

I just bought this and DVI-HDMI on my Hitachi 50VX915 was working fine out of the box. But there was a serious white crush problem so I decided to change the firmware.

- Firmware to fix the white crush issue caused HDCP compatibility issues. Now I get the infamous HELLO freeze. Plugging in the DVI cable after playing a dvd does not work.

So I decided to downgrade the firmware back to the one that alllows upconversion via component.

- As you may have guessed, this DID NOT fix the HDCP compatibility. I still get the HELLO freeze when trying to use DVI now.

Conclusion: The latest factory firmware shipping with some of these models resolves HDCP compatibility issues at the cost of white crush issues.

Does anyone know where I can get the latest factory firmware?!?!

Does anyone know if I can hook this dvd player up to my Analog Toshiba 27af42 through the component hookups? I tried and it did not work and I thought maybe there was a option to turn off something so it would work. Thanks if anyone knows.

I don't think that set can handle 480p. You need to set the 318 output for 480i via component.
jeff

Originally posted by Jago215
I just bought this and DVI-HDMI on my Hitachi 50VX915 was working fine out of the box. But there was a serious white crush problem so I decided to change the firmware.

- Firmware to fix the white crush issue caused HDCP compatibility issues. Now I get the infamous HELLO freeze. Plugging in the DVI cable after playing a dvd does not work.

So I decided to downgrade the firmware back to the one that alllows upconversion via component.

- As you may have guessed, this DID NOT fix the HDCP compatibility. I still get the HELLO freeze when trying to use DVI now.

Conclusion: The latest factory firmware shipping with some of these models resolves HDCP compatibility issues at the cost of white crush issues.

Does anyone know where I can get the latest factory firmware?!?!

PM MichaelTLV. He seems to be one of our firmware gurus around here for this unit. I think he even has a site setup for it.

Just hooked up my new DVB318 to my Mits 55807. Build date was 10/04, so I immediately fed it a CD-R with the old firmware .bin file. 1-2-3, done.

Popped in a DVD, pressed the upconversion button twice, and finally I know what all the commotion is about! Love the PQ!

Player seems well-behaved - no anomalies yet. Next up, playing with my Avia and DVE discs. I'll finally get to tighten up the HD side of the Mits' settings!

I havent gotten my 318 yet but what firmware should I use to transfer over component cables onto my panasonic 1080i HDTV?

Mine is supposed to arrive (UPS) today, while the seller insured me that it will up convert over component, just in case it doesn't could someone point me in the right direction to the old firmware that I can burn(if their's a difference) with a Mac?

Thanx

Ddog!!

Curious, if the most recent firmware disables up-conversion on the Component analog output why does there website (http://www.zenith.com/sub_prod/product_Display.asp?cat=15&id=178) suggest differently? Click the Additional Information link to the right, it says Component Video out, 1 (1080i).

The website if wrong.

Best,
jeff

I think that their saying that it convert none copy protected DVD's

I might be wrong.

Ddog!!

Okay, now if I could get a look at one of these players ... (in Atlanta)

Originally posted by TheFerret
Okay, now if I could get a look at one of these players ... (in Atlanta)

i live west of Atlanta in Carrollton. i have 2, one plugged to my 60" Sony XBR950 via DVI and my other plugged up to a 30" JVC 16:9 tube via component.

a buddy of mine has 2 (after seeing mine ;-) ), one plugged into a 70" Sony XBR950 and the other plugged to a 50" Nakamichi Plasma. he lives in Kennesaw off Chastain.

if your interested in seeing either, PM me.

Hehe, why is it no one lives in Gwinnett, or around Chateau Elan?

OK, mine just arrived(Oct 04) and I did a little playin with it. I put in "Cellar" and it up converted it just fine both 720p and 1080i. I remembered that players with the new firmware won't play "Star Wars" so I popped it in and Wa La only plays in 480p.

So it looks like it will up convert non-copy right DVD's and the web site is right.

I need to know if I can download the old firmware using a Mac?

Thanx Ddog!!

Well, I burned the firmware using a Mac and popped it in and it works great!!

It even reads the Star Wars DvD.

What a great Forum this is.

Thanx to all

Ddog!!

does anyone havew a problem playing burnt dvd's on Zenith DVB318 or the lg? they skip and freeze up,but if i play a original dvd it is fine......
why would this be? i have it hooked up using component and playing on a z2.....

Originally posted by raymondeast
does anyone havew a problem playing burnt dvd's on Zenith DVB318 or the lg? they skip and freeze up,but if i play a original dvd it is fine......
why would this be? i have it hooked up using component and playing on a z2..... Here's an exchange from earlier in this thread where Michael TLV mentioned that this machine may have issues with some burned media...Originally posted by gtv
I have the old firmware, I think it is Feb. build. I am having problems viewing DVD+R disks. I am using Ritek disks and they play fine on other DVD players I have. The disks play fine always until about the end or 3/4s of the way in the movie, then skipping and audio cutout occurs.

Anyone else have issues with playing DVD+R discs on the Zenith player? Originally posted by Michael TLV
Greetings

It's more the media ... as in the particular batch that you have. I have plenty of +R media that plays just fine on the LG/zenith.

Sometimes the burn speed of the DVD also affects the playback. discs burned at 2.4X sometimes play more reliably than those at 4X or 8X ...

The Zenith seems to be more sensitive to this ... as other players like pioneer and Sony units play right through where the Zenith would stutter ...

Regards

Well, the 318 - oct build - came in via UPS, firmware flashed easily _grin_

Set it up with Video Essentials (pre-digital version)

If there's a green depression, I can't tell it. Yellow and green seemed to set fine with the setup disc. If it's doing it - I don't wanna know _big grin_

This thing is killer for $160 including freight.

Regards

Ken L

Originally posted by raymondeast
does anyone havew a problem playing burnt dvd's on Zenith DVB318 or the lg? they skip and freeze up,but if i play a original dvd it is fine......
why would this be? i have it hooked up using component and playing on a z2.....

I have noticed some stutter too with burnt discs, as seymouru also pointed out. Maybe we should start a list of which discs exhibit this problem, and which ones work fine. I'll start:

- Sony DVD+R burnt at 4X (skips and freezes during the last 40 minutes or so).

According to the Specs, the 318 supports DVD-R and DVD+RW, so a skipping problem with DVD+R may be caused by the + format.

I've watched movies burned on +r and -r discs without any problems on the 318. Not sure of the +r brand as I got them from a friend, but the -r discs are sony 4x. I just recently bought a cake box of fuji 8x -r and will test those this weekend.

I just bought a DVB318 and did the frim ware "reset" so that it can upconvert throught the Component out. My question is how do you know if it is upconverting? Is it supposed to say so on the DVD display panel? I hit the button and nothing seems to happen. Normally when I change signals on my Projector I get promted to "reset" the image. When I press the upconversion button the picture looks the same.

Originally posted by puresilversound
I just bought a DVB318 and did the frim ware "reset" so that it can upconvert throught the Component out. My question is how do you know if it is upconverting? Is it supposed to say so on the DVD display panel? I hit the button and nothing seems to happen. Normally when I change signals on my Projector I get promted to "reset" the image. When I press the upconversion button the picture looks the same.

The DVD has to be stopped and the display on the front of the player indicates the resolution.

Chris

Halleluiah !,

I found that out in another obscure post. Now I know what everyone is talking about. The 1080i looks great on my NEC LT260K.

Thanks.

The Lg DV-7834nxc in 1080i looks better on my 240k then my old setup did.

It's a Pioneer Elite DV-C36 set to interlace and then fed into a Quadscan Pro set to native rez(1024x768) of the PJ.

Believe me I was skeptical.

Ddog!!:D

Be forewarned, that even if you see the 1080i on the display, you may not be in 1080i, due to slipping back to 480p as soon as the DVD starts playing again. This "slipping" happens for sure on the new firmware, due to the copyright protection issue. It does not (so far) slip back using the old firmware.

The only real way to know your HDTV display is in 1080i is through your HDTVs menu functions or it's service menu. Even easier for example, my Toshiba lHDTV 46H83 loses it's own ability to zoom if the signal coming in is really 1080i. If I can't use the HDTV's zoom function then I confirm I am seeing 1080i.

Also, if after you change to 1080i, stop the DVD player again, and press "upconvert" again. If the next display show up as 480p you were in 1080i. If this gave you 720p, then you were running in 480p.

This has been said before here, and other forums. But I keep seeing people talk about the front display and actually it is not enough to confirm what you are seeing on the HDTV screen.

Originally posted by traveler57
Be forewarned, that even if you see the 1080i on the display, you may not be in 1080i....... This "slipping" happens for sure on the new firmware, due to the copyright protection issue. It does not (so far) slip back using the old firmware.

The only real way .......... But I keep seeing people talk about the front display and actually it is not enough to confirm what you are seeing on the HDTV screen.

Yep - quite correct - I wanted to see what the new firmware would do. Accordingly, by the display it would seem like it was trying to upconvert and would flash several pics up which looked the same as the 480P although indications were that I was in 1080I.

Once I flashed the firmware - it was obvious that in 1080I there was a small shift of brightness and contrast with a much more noticeable shift of colors on my NEC mt1060 - I just did the new settings under a different user and brightness/contrast adjusted out - apparantly the color shift did also, although I haven't watched a full movie, yet

Regards

Ken L

my dvd's are -r, my buddy did the burning but i have about 100 burnt dvd's and the first 50 he used a different burner and they are the one's that skip
the newer burner seems to be a little better

Hey guys,

Wow...this thread was a lot of reading :)

After reading all that it looks like this is the right DVD player for component. I just had one question.

Will I be able to use the component out from the DVB318 to my Pioneer 1014TX Receiver component in and then back out to my projector...or will this effect video quality? Thank you.

-Kosta

That depends on the bandwidth of your receivers video switching it might give the bandwidth in the specs section of your manual or you may have to contact Pioneer to find out if the component video is able to handle 720p and 1080i signals.

Originally posted by KostaVan
Hey guys,

Wow...this thread was a lot of reading :)

After reading all that it looks like this is the right DVD player for component. I just had one question.

Will I be able to use the component out from the DVB318 to my Pioneer 1014TX Receiver component in and then back out to my projector...or will this effect video quality? Thank you.

-Kosta

I don't have any specific knowledge about component switching using the 1014TX but I am using my Yamaha AV receiver for component switching without any noticeable difference in picture quality. I expect your Pioneer to be excellent in that regard with no degradation.

Chris

I was looking at eCost and it has the Zenith DV318 listed, is this the same model as the DVB318?

Originally posted by KostaVan
Will I be able to use the component out from the DVB318 to my Pioneer 1014TX Receiver component in and then back out to my projector...or will this effect video quality? Thank you.

-Kosta

I use the 318 component out to a 1014, then into my RPTV and I can't tell any difference versus hooking straight to the RPTV. I also have my HD signal going through the 1014 and it looks the same as going straight to the RPTV as well.

Originally posted by exlondoner
I was looking at eCost and it has the Zenith DV318 listed, is this the same model as the DVB318?

Yes but eCost probably doesn't have it in stock now. It shows please call which always means it isn't in stock at eCost in my experience.

Chris

Just ordered the 318. Since I bought it so that I can use component out 1080i, I know I have to flash it. I've downloaded the old firmware (LV700i1.bin), but do I need to rename this file LGROMOUT.bin before I burn it to a CD-R or just burn it as is, with the LV700i1.bin name? Thanks for any info.

Also, I have a Samsung HD931 right now and it looks fine on DVI but I want to use my automatic component switcher and stop having to switch back and forth between HDMI input and component 1 on my HDTV. The HD931 picture is horrible on component: completely washed out and doesn't even resemble the contrast/color through HDMI. My old (non upconverting) DVD player at least got the color and contrast right over component. The HD931 is unusable over component the picture is so bad, even when just comparing 480p. I'm hoping with the 318, the picture via 1080i will be high quality and a very good match for the same signal via DVI like all my other components: HD Tivo, JVC DVHS, etc.

Mike

Originally posted by mchaney
...do I need to rename this file LGROMOUT.bin before I burn it to a CD-R or just burn it as is, with the LV700i1.bin name?You have to rename it, per Michael TLV's instructions on this site (http://www.keohi.com/ibf/hdtv/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=1631):I need to mention that although the two firmware files from the site have different names, you must rename either file to "lgromout.bin" for the firmware to be accepted by the player. For some reason it accepts only that file name.

Originally posted by Erod
I've really enjoyed my 318, but I've had one problem.

On bright flashes in a movie, I'll often lose my picture altogether for a few moments.

For context, I've got it hooked up to an Infocus 7200.

Any thoughts on why this is?

I used to have this problem with my X1; Fixed it but updating firmware
to 4.3. Also need to have "sync threshold adjust" (I think thats what it's called) checked on on the X1. The 7200 might have the same sort of fixes.

Are there any problems with dual layer media using this DVD player?

Where is everyone purchasing there DVb318's, I know eCost and PC Mall are out of stock on these players as well as Amazon.

Thanks!

I bought my LG 7832nxc from "Electronics for Less" in Canada, off Ebay for under $200 bucks delivered.
2 weeks ago.

Ddog!!

I found mine online from Dynadirect.

It's still en route, so I can't vouch for their service, though.

Thanks guys!

After much research, I've decided to go with the Oppo unit which I've placed an order for.

So, in skimming this thread, it seems that the upconverted 1080i component output remains in standard definition (NTSC) rather than HDTV colour space. Did I get that right ?

If the component video switch in a receiver is used to select between the DVB318 output & HDTV set top box output (ie: to a display input that is currently calibrated for STB) what would happen, eg:

(a) No problems - No need to adjust any settings when switching :)

(b) Need to adjust some combination of contrast, brightness, hue and saturations when switching :eek:

(c) Need to adjust the colour decoder itself when switching :(

I think I could live with (b) if it is just a question of counting clicks on up to 4 adjustments before sitting down to watch a movie. However, entering the service menu each time for (c) would be too painful.

Thanks,
Brent

Edit : Just saw reference to colour space issues in the
Go-to Guide for Source Options (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=494606) in this forum. Looks like I have some homework to do. Still though, I am interested in comments on actual user experiences with DVB318 before I order one of these wee beasties...

For me and my set up (Lg/Zenith dvd player and NEC 240k projector) the difference is about 5clicks to the darker on the Brightness adjustment.

Ddog!!

My Panny has 3 modes vivid, standard and cinema. lucky for me I have 2 component inputs and 1 dvi. On your input do you have a choice like cinema or standard and just select instead of clicking up or donw a couple?

I only have one component input that accepts 1080i. There is only one group of settings per scan-rate (no concept of vivid, standard and cinema, etc).

This is on a 2001 Mitsubishi RPTV. The thought is that upsampling DVDs to 1080i will eliminate the scanlines I currently see on 480p inputs due to CRTs/lenses being too well focused for 480p (and I don't want to defocus them and mess up HD signals).

Brent

battscrew

I have and use 2 inputs but for some reason they mirror each other, don't know why.

Meaning that if I adjust 1 input the other will adjust also,.....I'm still trying to figure this out.

The PJ is a NEC 240K.

So for now I'm just clicking the "Brightness" down about 5 clicks.

Ddog!!

Originally posted by exlondoner
Where is everyone purchasing there DVb318's, I know eCost and PC Mall are out of stock on these players as well as Amazon.

Thanks!

Check cousinsvideo.com. They have them in-stock off-and-on with a price of $160...and they have gotten good reviews for customer service.

HTH

Robsis

I just purchased mine today from savinglots.com. I know nothing about this store or anything about the quality of their service. The salesman seemed helpful, and even told me the build date of their dvb318's before I even had a chance to ask. Mine should ship tomorrow (from Ohio he said), so hopefully I can get it by Friday. Their price is competitive with the others out there, and at least they have it in stock.

Originally posted by dustin999
I just purchased mine today from savinglots.com. I know nothing about this store or anything about the quality of their service. The salesman seemed helpful, and even told me the build date of their dvb318's before I even had a chance to ask. Mine should ship tomorrow (from Ohio he said), so hopefully I can get it by Friday. Their price is competitive with the others out there, and at least they have it in stock.

I got mine from savingslots.com a few months ago when I couldn't find stock anywhere else. The price was a few dollars higher than others said they were getting at Amazon, etc; however, I was pleased with the service and the unit arrived in great shape....no open box like others have complained about from Amazon. Their CS people were friendly and the unit flashed with no problems. This is another good option if stock is unavailable elsewhere....

I have not seen anything on this, which probably means nothing is possible, but let me ask: Has anyone found a way to defeat HDCP on this player?

I'm using it with my Compaq MP4800 FP, which has a DVI-D input and bad documentation, a combination that allowed me to get my hopes high enough to spring for a 15' DVI cable. D'oh! No HDCP, so no stable image from the player.

Is there any work-around for this?? In the meantime, I flashed the player back to the earlier firmware, pretty painlessly, and am contenting myself with component.

It is well documented that the DVB-318 has superior picture quality over component compared to DVI.

Even people with HDCP "compliant" tv's report that it still doesn't always work properly.

Why not enjoy the 1080i component and leave all that HDCP mumbo-jumbo out on the curb where it belongs?

Howdy,

For the fellow members which have the Zenith DVB-318 and a TV and a projector running. How are you making your connections?

I have an older RPTV (Toshiba with component 1080i) and a Sony VPL-VW10HT with component inputs. I would like to be able to feed to both units. Sometimes just playing on a 60" 4:3 TV is fine. The other times to the projector on a 129" screen for big stuff. The screen comes down in front of the rptv. So I would only be using one or the other for viewing. I wanted to just use simple cable Y splitters off the DVB-318 components. Will this effectively kill the resolution? Will this even work? I do not think the components will last plugging and unplugging all that much.

You will need a component switcher.

Originally posted by mflagg
I wanted to just use simple cable Y splitters off the DVB-318 components. Will this effectively kill the resolution? Will this even work?

I have never actually tried this but suspect that it would not work well (if it worked at all). Video cabling is supposed to use 75 ohms throughout to avoid signal reflections and maintain signal levels. Using RCA instead of BNC connectors is bad enough. But if you connect two loads (RPTV & FP) to one source (DVB318) then the signals will be attenuated to the point that you may loose sync. Even if that doesn't happen, due to the 2:1 impedance mismatch (the two 75 ohm cables/loads in parallel become 37.5 ohms) reflections will likely cause vertical "ripples" in the images. Exactly what will happen will depend on cable lengths and the method of termination at each connector.

That is why a switcher is indicated. There is only one load presented to the source at any one time.

Brent

Just got the 318, hooked it up, flashed the older firmware to it, and it's working... but not without incident!

First, I initially connected both the component and DVI connectors to my TV because I wanted to be able to switch back and forth to test it, even though I bought the unit specifically to be able to output 1080i over component so I could use my automatic component switcher that everything else is connected to. Under this setup, it took me a good 30+ minutes to figure out that the reason the 318 was locking up hard was because I had the DVI connector plugged in. This thing really needs some work in that area. If you have the DVI cable plugged in, it just refuses to do anything. Upon powering up, it just says "Hello" and sits there. You can't even turn it off or eject a disc. Then, if you unplug it for at least 2 minutes and plug it back in, at least you get a display that says "TV ON" and then "Boot" every few seconds. That's better than "Hello" and I finally figured out I had to unplug the DVI cable (even though the TV wasn't using it) and it was then fine through component and stopped locking up. I didn't see any mention of this here, but I may have missed something in 54 pages of posts, so let this be a heads-up: if you connect both the DVI and component cables, be prepared for the unit to lock up on you if your TV hasn't powered up its DVI/HDMI connector.

Now I can finally watch DVD's upconverted to 1080i and not have to fool with my TV to change the input. After playing the first 10 minutes of "Chronicles of Riddick" though, the black macroblocking issue is quite noticeable. My old Sammy HD941 never had that problem. I know I know... turn down the brightness... BUT I bought this stupid thing just so I wouldn't have to keep switching the input back and forth on my TV, so fiddling with brightness every time you switch to or away from DVD is no better. IMO, they should have done the brightness and black levels properly like all my other components, and this wouldn't be an issue.

I must say I'm not entirely happy with the unit due to the macroblocking of blacks in dark scenes, but I guess it's better than my old Sammy.

Mike

the problem with the dual hookup has been discussed in this thread.

Hello I have the LG7832NX hooked up to my Hitachi PJTX100 LCD front projector through component , upconverting to 1080i. the picture looks awsome, and one ocassion even more awsome. Let me explain..some times watching the same movie it will appear deep, sharp, crisp, bright, very 3d like..very detailed and almost jump off the screen. Other times playing the same movie over it will appear dull, less saturated and lifeless, not jumping out at you at all. I do not change settings or connections, it happens all on it's own. It happens all the time on the same movie or different movies??? Last night I was watching a scene from Gladiator and thought it looked very dull, then about 30 minutes after turning on the projector and DVD player it switched again!! I then went back and watched some of the dull scenes over again to confirm my observations. They were much improved as I suspected. Has anyone else experienced this problem with this DVD player or is possible my projector?

Any help would be great..thanks

Originally posted by upnorth
Last night I was watching a scene from Gladiator and thought it looked very dull, then about 30 minutes after turning on the projector and DVD player it switched again!!

I think that's a "feature" of most projectors if I'm not mistaken. I have an LCD projector too (Panny AE700U) and see this all the time. It may have something to do with the warm-up process with the bulb, I'm not sure. And since I don't have my DVB318 yet (should come today or tomorrow!) I can't confirm it's not a DVD problem. But I see it all the time with HDTV, I'll turn on the projector and at first the screen is really dark, after a minute or two it gets up to a normal level, but still looks dull. And it seems like after several mins (20-30 mins I'd guess) the picture definitely looks better than it did 5 mins after turning on the projector.

u r not smokin sum tin r u ??

Just kiddin

are you sure the Lg isn't resetting its self back to 480p?

Ddog!!

Just ordered this from Amazon! I might have paid too much $217.00 with overnight shipping, but what the hell. I need my toys! If all goes well i should have my new dvd player tomorrow for a weekend of HD viewing.

Originally posted by ddog
u r not smokin sum tin r u ??

Just kiddin

are you sure the Lg isn't resetting its self back to 480p?

Ddog!!


No but the info on the projector says it is still in 1080i and the DVD player was made prior to the new firmware updated models which causes the upconverting problem through component. Could it be a cracked or malfunctioing processing chip(module) in either the projector or DVD player?

Originally posted by robsis
Check cousinsvideo.com. They have them in-stock off-and-on with a price of $160..

Yep, and that's $160.00 total. Including all freight and shipping charges.

E-mail after my order informed me that it would ship within 1 to 2 weeks.

Mine arrived 9 days after my order was placed.

Regards

Ken L

I hate to post this because I know how fanatical people can be about their equipment, but after a week with the DVB318, I have to say this unit is a real piece of junk! Tomorrow I'll be hooking my old Sammy HD 941 back up, reflashing the DVB318 with the newer firmware, and sending it back. The macroblocking in dark colors is simply unbelievable! After watching several different DVD's the macroblocking is so bad that it is just not acceptable. I wanted to be able to use component video since my other devices are connected that way and I have an auto switch for component video, but I can now say without a doubt that the minor hassle of having to switch my plasma from HDMI to component and back is peanuts compared to trying to live with the horrible wandering blocks in dark areas of the picture.

The DVB318 has this ailment to an extreme on both the DVI and component video while my old Sammy had no problem whatsoever (other than the fact that you had to be connected via DVI/HDMI to get the upconversion). Also, turning down the brightness is useless because the dynamic range on this unit is so screwed up that by the time you decrease brightness enough to get rid of the blocking, the overall picture is so dark that it has no contrast left. It's like the black point on this unit is so high (blacks are gray) as to screw up the tone curve to the point where it can't be recovered with simple brightness changes, otherwise you risk taking white down to a point where it is just gray now and your entire picture looks washed out. You need something more along the lines of an auto-leveling of the histogram in order to remap black.

Well, I gave it a try. Maybe people with sets that have much less dynamic range are not having as much trouble because their TV's can't display as much range anyway. If you have a newer plasma though with high dynamic range, maybe this unit is not going to be for you.

YMMV...

Mike

I have never seen macroblocking. I am very suprised to hear this from many people. I have never ever seen it.

what kind of display you have. I have run it on both my X1 and Sony Wega 36XBR800 HDTV and have never seen any.

Originally posted by bruman
I have never seen macroblocking. I am very suprised to hear this from many people. I have never ever seen it.

what kind of display you have. I have run it on both my X1 and Sony Wega 36XBR800 HDTV and have never seen any.

Panasonic 50" plasma. I have an RCA 60" rear projection HDTV too and hooked it up to that just to see. The macroblocking is still clearly visible, but I wouldn't say "objectionable" on the RPTV. I think the plasmas just have a lot higher dynamic range and things in the shadows are more visible. I have a lot of other HD components and don't have any issue with black on them. In watching the third season of 24 last night, they often cut to a black background and then pop up 3-4 small pictures one at a time on top of the black background. When they do that and start with the black background, the entire center of the picture is a big bluish magenta blob that sometimes moves and sometimes doesn't. It also happens in any dark area in a normal scene such as the shadowed area on the back of someone's hair: it'll look like a river of floating blobs usually moving to the right in the dark areas. Very distracting. I'll try a few more adjustments on the plasma before I give up on it, but I really think I'm going to have to go back to my HD941 since it didn't have the problem at all.

Mike

I will say I have never been impressed with plasma tv's. in general even HD content I have seen macroblocking and plasmas seem to show it alot. in my experience.

Originally posted by bruman
I have never seen macroblocking. I am very suprised to hear this from many people. I have never ever seen it.

what kind of display you have. I have run it on both my X1 and Sony Wega 36XBR800 HDTV and have never seen any.
Me neither. I think some folks have issues with a few models or brand of plasma TV's, based on unique manufacturer specifications - Sony is notirious for building things "different" than the rest of the world. That tends to lead to these kinds of things. EVen then, only certain models of SOny seem to have a problem.

I've used my DVB318 on a DLP2 projector and DLP RP TV for over a year - no such problems at all. Great picture, great upconvert. Ironically, I've heard 10 times as many problems with the Samsung upconvert DVD players - the 841 in particular was quite a dog.

Macroblocking with this player and other players using the Faroudja FLI2301 or FLI2310 can be very objectionable with some displays. I can certainly see it in some dark scenes with my 720p LCD projector but I can live with it. If it was a lot worse as it apparently is with some plasma displays, then it would be a deal killer for this player and many others. I don't think the DVB318 is worse than most of the other inexpensive players with the offending chips. Some of the more expensive players using the chips seem to be able to avoid the problems to some extent.

I think plasma displays can look great using the right DVD player, so a different player will probably get better results.

Chris

Originally posted by bruman
I will say I have never been impressed with plasma tv's. in general even HD content I have seen macroblocking and plasmas seem to show it alot. in my experience.

Plasma TV's blow away everything else on the market as far as I'm concerned. I've compared them all, and plasma is the only technology that can deliver extreme dynamic range, precise resolution, and no color shifting or fade when you are watching it at an angle. The best plasmas will have much better resolution, more accurate color, and better range than even the best DLP's. They look a lot sharper too because the image isn't being thrown from a distance on the screen. The pixels are in precise locations and are driven directly so you never have to worry about fringing or other chromatic aberrations. About the only down side to plasmas is burn-in, and I've run mine for over a year now and there's no evidence of any burnin problems at all. The latest plasmas seem to have just about eliminated burn-in.

Mike

So I was wondering after you attach this should it be attached straight to the Tv video wise for upconversion or to the reciever??

Also, any other precautions that might need to be taken. Should be recieving it soon so was wondering about this.

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
Macroblocking with this player and other players using the Faroudja FLI2301 or FLI2310 can be very objectionable with some displays.

The Sammy HD941 has the Faroudja 2310 chip and has no macroblocking whatsoever at any resolution. I just disconnected my DVB318 and hooked the HD941 back up and what a difference! The resolution, tonal quality, and complete absence of macroblocking is all I need to be convinced. The DVB318 is going back. With the HD941 hooked up, I turned the brightness all the way up on my plasma and still not a hint of macroblocking. I'm not convinced this is an artifact of the Faroudja chipset and not just a poor implementation of its features!

Mike

Has anyone had audio skipping problems??? I just got mine in and no matter what dvd I play it skips audio. Anyone have any ideas?



Ok so I put in the composite cable from the DVD player to my reciever. It worked fine without a hitch. I set the options now to 96Khz and Bitstream. Now my question is why would it just skip audio when it was using optical cables??? Any ideas?

Also I was looking through the threads, what do you think are the best setup options for this player??? DRC, ?? Audio video setups. Tell me what you think

I had my set ISF last week and we tested the sam 941 on my tosh rptv. What we got was majored MB all over the place. :mad:

Originally posted by jsil
I had my set ISF last week and we tested the sam 941 on my tosh rptv. What we got was majored MB all over the place. :mad:

Looked closer at my Sammy and it's actually an HD931 not HD941. I wonder if the HD941 has MB and the HD931 doesn't, because I can confirm that the HD931 won't have any MB at all on any set over DVI unless maybe you are watching a poorly encoded DVD that has MB in the MPEG encoding itself.

Mike

Originally posted by mchaney
Looked closer at my Sammy and it's actually an HD931 not HD941. I wonder if the HD941 has MB and the HD931 doesn't, because I can confirm that the HD931 won't have any MB at all on any set over DVI unless maybe you are watching a poorly encoded DVD that has MB in the MPEG encoding itself.

Mike

The Samsung HD931 uses the Faroudja FLI2310 according to DVD Benchmark and I would sure expect it to perform similarly to the DVB318 but without upconversion over component. I think you might want to read about the player before you confirm it can't have macroblocking over DVI with any set. I believe you can find quite a few contradictions to that pronouncement by owners of sets you don't have or haven't seen. Still if you are happy with the HD931, there is no reason to buy a DVB318 since I would expect the two players to perform similarly. Different displays and different tastes could indicate a preference of one over the other.

Chris

I am having a problem with my SVB318 freezing up on certain DVDs. It appears that it freezes during the "layer coversion". For example, it is particularly bad at about scene 27 on the Empire Strikes Back. It also has a problem with the extras disk on the deluxe edition of The Professional.

I tested the first Star Wars disk (A New Hope) at approximately the same point where layer conversion ocurrs on The Empire Strikes Back. It did a short freeze there too but not as bad.

So, my question- should I send the unit to Zenith for repair? I am using component for this player and would like to keep it that way. My fear is they will put in the firmware update if I send in the unit or, alternately, replace the unit with one that has the firmware update.

Opinions? Suggestions? I would like to just ignore the issue and I can live a few glitches, but it looks like this may be a problem with more than just a few disks. It just started exhibiting this problem so I think I had better deal with it.

OK - I've installed the old firmware for upconversion. But I'm not able to tell any difference when I press the upconversion button while playing a DVD.

How do I tell on the Zenith player itself that it is upconverting? Or will I only be able to tell from the input label (and presumably "better" PQ) on my monitor?

I have the 318 connected to my Sharp LCD via component, as this thread recommended.

Originally posted by AVWH
OK - I've installed the old firmware for upconversion. But I'm not able to tell any difference when I press the upconversion button while playing a DVD.

How do I tell on the Zenith player itself that it is upconverting? Or will I only be able to tell from the input label (and presumably "better" PQ) on my monitor?

I have the 318 connected to my Sharp LCD via component, as this thread recommended.

The fluorescent display on the front of the player will show what is being output. Many displays will also have the ability to show input format, my Panasonic 720p LCD projector can do this. If you can't tell any difference, I would be amazed since the DVB318 in my opinion is not very good at 480i, 480p, and 720p. Only 1080i looks good and I can tell immediately if it is set at 1080i just by looking.

Chris

Originally posted by AVWH
OK - I've installed the old firmware for upconversion. But I'm not able to tell any difference when I press the upconversion button while playing a DVD.

How do I tell on the Zenith player itself that it is upconverting? Or will I only be able to tell from the input label (and presumably "better" PQ) on my monitor?

I have the 318 connected to my Sharp LCD via component, as this thread recommended.

Just a thought....Are you changing the display to 1080i with the DVD in and not playing, or are you trying to change the resolution output while the DVD is playing? The unit will not change output signals while in the play mode and your post seems to infer that is what you are doing...if I'm wrong, ignore; however, if not, try to change the resolution with the disc stopped. When you push play, you should, then, notice the difference. I do on my Sony Wega 42" LCD projection unit....and even my 12 year old noticed the difference on Star Wars/ Episode 2 right away!

HTH and Good Luck!

Robert

PS: I agree with Chris...it is the 1080i setting that makes this player shine...the others are average at best!

Thanks, robsis and Chris. I was trying w/ the DVD playing. Now I get the readout on my LCD of 720p or 1080i - and 1080i is almost HD-like. Definitely worth it on any reasonably large-sized screen.

Sonnyboy,

I had the same problem with my 318. I had it about 5 inches above my amp and the heat from the amp was causing it to lock up during the layer change. I have since moved it up away from the heat source and it has never locked up again. Just might want to try before changing firmware. I am running component too.

Hope this helps.

Sound issues
Well I have since concluded that the 318 is just not taking my optical cable. Has anyone had this problem? I would have thought that the optical cable would produce a more clear and sharp sound compared to the coaxial. I guess my monster optical cable is being wasted. I just really am befuddled as to why the fiber is causing the sound to skip. I still cant tell the difference between 1080i and 480. If anyone knows a good DVD to test this difference I would appreciate it. Thanks!
Jonathan
P.S. All help is helpful

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
The Samsung HD931 uses the Faroudja FLI2310 according to DVD Benchmark and I would sure expect it to perform similarly to the DVB318 but without upconversion over component. I think you might want to read about the player before you confirm it can't have macroblocking over DVI with any set. I believe you can find quite a few contradictions to that pronouncement by owners of sets you don't have or haven't seen.

Can you point to one? Do a search here and you'll find no posts about macroblocking on the HD931, unless people are calling it something else. A search of newsgroups pulls up nothing as well. The reason I say that it cannot have macroblocking on any set is that I turned the brightness up on my plasma so high that blacks looked gray. That obviously reveals all detail in the shadows and with a digital connection, I don't believe this is going to change from set to set. If macroblocking were there, it would show up doing that.

The only way you are going to get macroblocking on the HD931 is if it is encoded in the original MPEG content, i.e. a defect in the DVD itself. After seeing the level of macroblocking that is actually created as an artifact of the DVB318 and seeing how often it locks up for no reason with nothing but "Hello" displayed on the front panel with no way to get out but unplug it, my assessment of the DVB318 is that it is simply a poorly designed unit.

Mike

Originally posted by mchaney
Can you point to one? Do a search here and you'll find no posts about macroblocking on the HD931, unless people are calling it something else. A search of newsgroups pulls up nothing as well. The reason I say that it cannot have macroblocking on any set is that I turned the brightness up on my plasma so high that blacks looked gray. That obviously reveals all detail in the shadows and with a digital connection, I don't believe this is going to change from set to set. If macroblocking were there, it would show up doing that.

The only way you are going to get macroblocking on the HD931 is if it is encoded in the original MPEG content, i.e. a defect in the DVD itself. After seeing the level of macroblocking that is actually created as an artifact of the DVB318 and seeing how often it locks up for no reason with nothing but "Hello" displayed on the front panel with no way to get out but unplug it, my assessment of the DVB318 is that it is simply a poorly designed unit.

Mike

I just did a slow search with "HD931" and "black" and another with "HD931" and "dark" and another one with "HD931" and "macroblocking". I got a bunch of posts indicating black crush, murky blacks, lack of detail in blacks and some discussion of macroblocking. I read for about 5 minutes and got tired. The player apparently doesn't have enough detail with dark scenes to be too often accused of macroblocking so it appears the Samsung may have created a worse problem based on the little I read. There were a lot of complaints about how poorly it handles dark scenes, but not too much calling the problem macroblocking. You could probably read about the issues with dark scenes for sometime if you want. If the HD931 looks better than the DVB318 with your display, then you should definitely use the HD931, I am not going to argue that point. These inexpensive upconverting players using the Faroudja FLI23xx chips are a crap shoot. With most DVDs, I am very happy with my DVB318 and Panasonic PTL-500U but I do see some macroblocking or color problems with some and don't use the player with those DVDs.

Chris

I read the first 30 or so pages of this thread (my eyes are tired), but found nothing even close to describing the problem I am having. If this was discussed before I apologize...

I have my Zenith DVB318 connected to my Samsung RPTV via component video cables (no DVI). I seem to remember having an 04 build date, but I have already flashed my DVD player with the old config.

The problem that I am having is that when in 1080I up conversion mode, the player seems to constantly shift the video shading or coloring during play. For example: When watching a black and white scene in 1080I the colors at first seem to be very washed out and the whites have a very yellowish tint, a few seconds later (and without a scene change) the colors and tints will change and become very bright and vibrant, the picture looks great and the whites are actually white. The next scene change will cause the colors to become washed out again. It is like watching a movie with someone constantly changing the color (hue) and brightness settings.

Has anyone had this problem, is there any know fixes or ideas?


Thanks

Huey I was wondering whenever you get a chance if you could look at my sounds issue I described earlier.
Thanks!

How does one know which build their DVB318 is? Does it say on the back anywhere? Where is the date printed, which lets you know whether it was pre-March 04 firmware?

The build date is on the back.

Chris

So, I am testing out the component outputs of a DVB318 (October 2004 build date) and, to my surprise, I found the following titles upconvert to 1080i:

Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon (superbit)
5th Element (superbit)
Avia
Shrek 2

These titles don't:

Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon (non-superbit)
Mission Impossible 2

My RPTV displays the input scan-rate so there is no confusion whether up-conversion is enabled or not. If the non-superbit version of Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon is played the resolution changes to 480P and remains that way until the disk is ejected.

With quick Avia calibration the red push seemed to be about 5% and the green push -15% (RPTV is locked into HD colour decoder). However, my intial impression was that the colours looked fine. No real issue with green saturation in movie watching (and I checked carefully for it).

The image is noticeably improved (smoother) at 1080i resolution mainly because the scanlines I get at 480P (because the set has good electrostatic & optical focus) are eliminated.

Brent

I've been lurking AVS for a few weeks now, this thread in particular. Lots of knowledgeable folks out here! I pulled the trigger on a DVB318 for the up-conversion over component. My display is a Mitsubishi RPTV, but does not have DVI or HDMI. The player has an Oct 2004 build, and downgrading the firmware was a breeze.

The DVB318 is quite respectable at 480, displays nothing at 720 (no biggie), and looks gorgeous at 1080. I do not see macroblocking, but I do have what has been invariably described as "rolling" or "waves" on the screen at 1080. These "waves" occur where darker portions of a scene merge into the lighter portions, stretch across the screen, and move up and down according to the movement in the scene.

I popped in a disc with the THX optimizer, and ran through the steps; little or no change. Any idea what this anomaly is, and how to either get rid of it or diminish it's effect?

Originally posted by Spenser2022
I've been lurking AVS for a few weeks now, this thread in particular. Lots of knowledgeable folks out here! I pulled the trigger on a DVB318 for the up-conversion over component. My display is a Mitsubishi RPTV, but does not have DVI or HDMI. The player has an Oct 2004 build, and downgrading the firmware was a breeze.

The DVB318 is quite respectable at 480, displays nothing at 720 (no biggie), and looks gorgeous at 1080. I do not see macroblocking, but I do have what has been invariably described as "rolling" or "waves" on the screen at 1080. These "waves" occur where darker portions of a scene merge into the lighter portions, stretch across the screen, and move up and down according to the movement in the scene.

I popped in a disc with the THX optimizer, and ran through the steps; little or no change. Any idea what this anomaly is, and how to either get rid of it or diminish it's effect?

Sounds to me like just another form of macroblocking. I just returned my DVB318 and got a Sony DVP-NS975V. It is light years ahead of the DVB318 in both features and picture quality, however, it doesn't upconvert the component outs. I finally just decided to bite the bullet and switch over to using the HDMI input on my TV. I wanted to use all component outputs because switchers are easier to get and are higher quality than the clunky and expensive HDMI/DVI switched out there, but it's not worth it in the end when it comes to upconverting DVD players. The Faroudja chipset is just awful in my opinion. It does the job of upconverting but on a plasma display that has high dynamic range where you can actually see details in the shadows, you'll either end up with macroblocking (DVB318) or "black crush" (Sammy HD931) where dark scenes are overly dark in an attempt to hide the macroblocking. If you are not tied down to component and you can use HDMI or DVI, I'd say stay away from the Faroudja players (most of them) and get something else like the Sony DVP-NS975V. I also had a lot of lock-up issues with my DVB318 where it loved to lock up whenever the HDMI connector was attached. Nothing could bring it back but pulling the power cord.

JMO.

Mike

Originally posted by mchaney
Sounds to me like just another form of macroblocking. I just returned my DVB318 and got a Sony DVP-NS975V. It is light years ahead of the DVB318 in both features and picture quality, however, it doesn't upconvert the component outs. I finally just decided to bite the bullet and switch over to using the HDMI input on my TV. I wanted to use all component outputs because switchers are easier to get and are higher quality than the clunky and expensive HDMI/DVI switched out there, but it's not worth it in the end when it comes to upconverting DVD players. The Faroudja chipset is just awful in my opinion. It does the job of upconverting but on a plasma display that has high dynamic range where you can actually see details in the shadows, you'll either end up with macroblocking (DVB318) or "black crush" (Sammy HD931) where dark scenes are overly dark in an attempt to hide the macroblocking. If you are not tied down to component and you can use HDMI or DVI, I'd say stay away from the Faroudja players (most of them) and get something else like the Sony DVP-NS975V. I also had a lot of lock-up issues with my DVB318 where it loved to lock up whenever the HDMI connector was attached. Nothing could bring it back but pulling the power cord.

JMO.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks for the reply and the info. I suspected that what I was seeing was a form of macroblocking, but wasn't entirely sure. The whole point of this exercise was to get as much HD/near HD,with as little investment as possible, while the Blu-Ray/HD-DVD wars play out.

Unfortunately, I bought the Mitsu RPTV a few years ago, when component was king and DVI/HDMI was a glimmer on the horizon. So, now I'm faced with getting a DVI/HDMI capable RPTV, stepping up to a DPL, or adandoning my scheme althogther. <sigh>

May I ask what display you're running the DVP-NS975V on?

I was planning to buy the dvd Battle Royale (special edition) but the dvd suffers from this ghosting issue....

In fact, even if it were still PAL, it would be the perfect release for BR and a great reason to buy a PAL->NTSC converting player, if it wasn't for one major flaw: a ghosting/stuttering image that pervades the feature film itself (the extras are okay). This is a result of the fact that the movie was converted to PAL from an NTSC transfer, rather than transferred directly from film. For a detailed explanation of the problem, see below.


If I were watching the Battle Royale DVD in NTSC which would have been converted from PAL would ghosting still be seen?

I would post the link with a more detailed explanation but I haven't posted enough yet. :)

I thought this would be the best place since it isn't really a dvd question, it has more to do with our player.

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
The fluorescent display on the front of the player will show what is being output. Many displays will also have the ability to show input format, my Panasonic 720p LCD projector can do this. If you can't tell any difference, I would be amazed since the DVB318 in my opinion is not very good at 480i, 480p, and 720p. Only 1080i looks good and I can tell immediately if it is set at 1080i just by looking.

Chris
Agreed here, in 480 mode this is probably the poorest picture I've seen. 720p it depends on the display device. For me 1080i is the only respectable picture.

Originally posted by Fizz23
I read the first 30 or so pages of this thread (my eyes are tired), but found nothing even close to describing the problem I am having. If this was discussed before I apologize...

I have my Zenith DVB318 connected to my Samsung RPTV via component video cables (no DVI). I seem to remember having an 04 build date, but I have already flashed my DVD player with the old config.

The problem that I am having is that when in 1080I up conversion mode, the player seems to constantly shift the video shading or coloring during play. For example: When watching a black and white scene in 1080I the colors at first seem to be very washed out and the whites have a very yellowish tint, a few seconds later (and without a scene change) the colors and tints will change and become very bright and vibrant, the picture looks great and the whites are actually white. The next scene change will cause the colors to become washed out again. It is like watching a movie with someone constantly changing the color (hue) and brightness settings.

Has anyone had this problem, is there any know fixes or ideas?


Thanks

I'd wonder about your cabling or if you are running through a receiver, try going direct. Another cause, and perhaps more likely, is a faulty player. This unit is not the greatest hardware-wise and many people have had it die or act flaky on them.

I have this player feeding a Samsung RPTV and do not have any of the effect you describe, nor the brutal macroblocking it produces on other monitors.

Originally posted by Spenser2022
May I ask what display you're running the DVP-NS975V on?

Panasonic TH-50PX20 plasma.

Mike

After much frustration with this unit, I've decided it's time to sell my Zenith DVB318. As there are many on this forum who've had pleasant results with this player, I'm sure one of you will be able to enjoy this more than I have.

Specs are:
Dec 03 build date, so has the original component upconversion firmware.
I made it region free and it worked fine with the two Region 6 discs I have.
Has had less than 30 hours of usage on it.

Thought I'd give someone here a chance to pick it up, otherwise it's off to eBay!

Just PM me if you're interested.

BTW, I replaced this with the NeuNeo HVD108 which works much better with my setup

Ok, i'm comparing this to my other old non-progressive unit, and when i compared the same movie, the DVB318 was a lot brighter, or less colorful, I couldn't really tell. I am currently using DVI October 2004. Will I get better colors with an earlier version and component, or should I just stick with DVI and the current October 2004 build. I am using 1080i. Thanks.

Originally posted by ramsfan2
Ok, i'm comparing this to my other old non-progressive unit, and when i compared the same movie, the DVB318 was a lot brighter, or less colorful, I couldn't really tell. I am currently using DVI October 2004. Will I get better colors with an earlier version and component, or should I just stick with DVI and the current October 2004 build. I am using 1080i. Thanks.

You could always try the older firmware over component and if you do not like it switch back to the newer firmware. I have only tried component as my HD receiver is in the DVI spot

Had some strange behaviour from my 318 this week. The player stopped responding to a few buttons on the remote: the power on/off, left, right, up, down, and enter. All the other buttons worked fine. Anyone else had this happen? The batteries are new, and had been working fine for weeks. At first I thought it was problem with the player, and I disconnected the power overnight to see that would fix it. The next day the problem was still there. So I thought oh crap, now I have to get the e-bay vendor to honor the 90 day warranty and pay to ship it back to them. I got the box out of the garage in anticipation of packing it. Out of frustration I slapped the remote hard a couple of times on my knee, and waddaya know, that fixed the problem!
While it is working ok now, I'm a little worried that I could get recurrence of this or other new problems once I am out of the 90 day period. I think this will be the last cheapo dvd player I buy... good picture or not. When you buy cheap, you buy compromised quality. What do you guys think?

Originally posted by Fizz23
I read the first 30 or so pages of this thread (my eyes are tired), but found nothing even close to describing the problem I am having. If this was discussed before I apologize...

I have my Zenith DVB318 connected to my Samsung RPTV via component video cables (no DVI). I seem to remember having an 04 build date, but I have already flashed my DVD player with the old config.

The problem that I am having is that when in 1080I up conversion mode, the player seems to constantly shift the video shading or coloring during play. For example: When watching a black and white scene in 1080I the colors at first seem to be very washed out and the whites have a very yellowish tint, a few seconds later (and without a scene change) the colors and tints will change and become very bright and vibrant, the picture looks great and the whites are actually white. The next scene change will cause the colors to become washed out again. It is like watching a movie with someone constantly changing the color (hue) and brightness settings.

Has anyone had this problem, is there any know fixes or ideas?


Thanks

I have similar problems. Use DVB318 upconvert 1080I via component to Toshiba DLP 52HM84. With a recent DVD from Blockbuster one trailer's colors wrong, the others are OK. In one movie (can't recall the name) colors all wrong through component, as if losing red. As a check I connected through Svideo, looked OK. Next day OK. Haven't seen the problem again in 10 days or so.

I wasn't sure the fault is with the TV or DVD player. Since you use a different TV with similar problems, probably something wrong with my DVD player.

HAve to say after 5 movies this weekend I am loving my new 318. I just wish it was a bit brighter in the dark scenes. In light ones it will melt your eyes out :)

Since there isn't any "real" football on this weekend, and the flu is killing me, I decided to give the 318 one more chance. X-Men looked glorious upconverted: the scenes in the bar after Logan's cage match, for example, were stunning.

Unfortunately, Star Wars: A New Hope was another matter entirely. The rolling I mentioned a few posts back was readily apparent throughout the film, even in well-lit scenes. <sigh>

The unit's output is just unacceptable, IMHO, and it's going back. I know there are those who are in love with this player. I'm sincerely happy that the PQ is spot-on for you. All I ask is that you remember the rest of us waiting on the sidelines for the conclusion of the Hi-Def DVD Wars! :D

Originally posted by VeloSlacker
Had some strange behaviour from my 318 this week. The player stopped responding to a few buttons on the remote: the power on/off, left, right, up, down, and enter. All the other buttons worked fine. Anyone else had this happen? Yep, a few people have had this happen. The solution was always the same. The 318 remote has the ability to control other devices. Somehow one of the buttons for one of the other devices got pushed. Push the DVD button on the remote and it will work just fine again. I suspect you inadvertantly accomplished this when you hit it on your knee.

Hey Scooterboy,
Thanks for the info. I never thought of that. You're probably right.... I must have hit one of the buttons for controlling other devices by mistake, and the remote buttons were not sending the power or direction signals to the dvd player. I'll keep that in mind. This info should be posted on the 1st thread. I know it might be obvious to a lot of folks, but it did not occur to me.
Cheers...

Originally posted by VeloSlacker

This info should be posted on the 1st thread.


This is in both the FAQ and monster threads.

Problem is no one wants to look for it.

Oh well....watcha gonna do?

Man after a few hours of trying to figure out which one of these upscaling players to try and go with and I think I'm going to give this one a shot. Now my question is when I buy a DVI cable do I really need a high dollar one or what? Any suggestions or recommendations? I have a Samsung 30 inch TXP 3071. Thanks.

Originally posted by tacos
Man after a few hours of trying to figure out which one of these upscaling players to try and go with and I think I'm going to give this one a shot. Now my question is when I buy a DVI cable do I really need a high dollar one or what? Any suggestions or recommendations? I have a Samsung 30 inch TXP 3071. Thanks.

The player comes with a DVI cable so unless you need a longer one, use it. If you do need a longer cable, there are a number of inexpensive cables that work fine. Belkin, Radio Shack and AR have good cables for the money.

Chris

Originally posted by Spenser2022
The unit's output is just unacceptable, IMHO, and it's going back. I know there are those who are in love with this player. I'm sincerely happy that the PQ is spot-on for you. All I ask is that you remember the rest of us waiting on the sidelines for the conclusion of the Hi-Def DVD Wars! :D

Just remember the VHS vs. Beta format war took the better part of a decade to be fully decided and the HD optical disc format war between HD-DVD and BluRay won't really begin until the end of 2005, with the roll-out of the first hardware and software. I suspect this new format war may not be decided until well beyond 2010. The best solution for the consumer will be if some manufacturers offer reasonably priced dual format players (i.e., supporting both HD-DVD and BluRay) and perhaps we will see such units within 3 or 4 years, if license agreements don't prevent such units. Certainly any standard DVD player with scaling to 720p or 1080i is an interim solution but I feel that I'm getting my money's worth (@ $160 each) out of my two DVB318 players. I have one connnected to a high end CRT front projector (Sony VPH-G70) and the other to a HD plasma and I'm getting excellent results from both setups.

Ron Jones

Originally posted by wblynch
This is in both the FAQ and monster threads.

Problem is no one wants to look for it.

Oh well....watcha gonna do?

Apologies... I should have looked again

I have a Hitachi 51F510 HDTV, it has HDMI. Finally bought a DVI-HDMI cable. Hooked it upped and froze as stated by other people in this thread. How have others who have tried to hook up an HDMI TV to this DVD player made it work?

Originally posted by Ron Jones
Just remember the VHS vs. Beta format war took the better part of a decade to be fully decided and the HD optical disc format war between HD-DVD and BluRay won't really begin until the end of 2005, with the roll-out of the first hardware and software. I suspect this new format war may not be decided until well beyond 2010. The best solution for the consumer will be if some manufacturers offer reasonably priced dual format players (i.e., supporting both HD-DVD and BluRay) and perhaps we will see such units within 3 or 4 years, if license agreements don't prevent such units. Certainly any standard DVD player with scaling to 720p or 1080i is an interim solution but I feel that I'm getting my money's worth (@ $160 each) out of my two DVB318 players. I have one connnected to a high end CRT front projector (Sony VPH-G70) and the other to a HD plasma and I'm getting excellent results from both setups.

Ron Jones

That was my plan in a nutshull: invest a little in current technology and ride out the format wars. I suspect it will be bloody, insomuch as there won't be a dual format player, and will take years to settle out.

I really want to love this player. If I had the PQ that lots of folks here rave about, I'd be happy. But I don't, so I can't. Nor can I justify the expense of a newer display unit right now. Kinda defeats the premise of "invest a little" :D And from what I gather here, it's a crap-shoot whether a newer display and/or DVI connectivity will solve these issues.

If you have any further explanations/resolutions for this rolling effect, I'd be happy to give them a shot. Otherwise, I gotta chalk things up to incompatibilities between the unit and my display and move on.

Forgive me if I am asking a question that has been asked and answered. I think that I found the answer, but am still confused. I was watching Father of the Bride II last night on my new Zenith 318 and my new Mits. 65813. Since this DVD has an aspect ratio of 1.85:1 I was expecting the gray bars at the top and bottom of my TV to be almost nothing, if visible at all. But, the gray bars were very present and looked rather large, more like what I would expect from a 2.35:1 movie. Searching this thread, I found the following reply posted by IMO:

"Details, details. OK. The size of the zoom increments depends on how quickly you tap the arrow buttons on your remote. The longer you press the button the more it zooms. I did some tests tapping the button as quickly or lightly as I could to find the maximum number of zoom increments. YMMV.

non-anamorphic 1.85, tap "up" arrow max 7 times for proper aspect ratio with no bars on top and bottom.

non-anamorphic 2.35, tap "up" arrow max 9 times for proper aspect ratio, but as such bars would remain on top and bottom, but you could zoom more to get rid of them, see below...

anamorphic 2.35, tap "up" and "right" arrows max 5 times each to fill your 16:9 widescreen display and maintain proper geometry (but not OAR) resulting in no bars on top or bottom, but some image cropped off the sides.

P.S. Above assumes player is set for 16:9 tv, and with a 16:9 tv. Don't know if it makes a difference..."



Is this the process that I need to follow to get rid of the black bars present while watching 1.85:1 DVD's? Why is this even needed? Is there someway I can setup this DVD player so I don't have to adjust the zoom every time I watch a DVD? Is the Zenith DVD player stretching 1.85:1 movies? Why would it do this?

I have flashed the firmware to up-convert over component video cables in case it matters.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Alto101
Is this the process that I need to follow to get rid of the black bars present while watching 1.85:1 DVD's? Why is this even needed? Is there someway I can setup this DVD player so I don't have to adjust the zoom every time I watch a DVD? Is the Zenith DVD player stretching 1.85:1 movies? Why would it do this?

I have flashed the firmware to up-convert over component video cables in case it matters.

Thanks!

16:9 is of course 1.78:1 so there should be small black bars on the top and bottom, which is what I expect and what I want to see when I play a 1.85:1 aspect ratio DVD. I don't know of a player that automatically crops the picture to fit to 16:9 screens but there may be some. I don't think the Zenith remembers zoom settings and if not, then you would have to zoom each time you must get rid of the black bars. The Zenith does not stretch anamorphic DVDs. If you play a non-anamorphic letterbox DVD, it does stretch when using upconversion. I can't find anyway to disable stretching letterbox 4:3 DVDs at 1080i and therefore don't use the Zenith DVB318 for 4:3 DVDs whether letterbox or 1.33:1 aspect ratio. In my opinion, the picture quality at anything other than 1080i isn't very good.

Chris

So as long as I am watching an anamorphic 1.85:1 DVD, the gray bars will either be very small or won't even display on my TV due to overscan, correct?

Therefore, the only time I need to adjust the zoom is on non-anamorphic DVD's, correct? I don't own any full-screen DVD's so that is not going to be a problem.

Thanks for the help.

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
16:9 is of course 1.78:1 so there should be small black bars on the top and bottom, which is what I expect and what I want to see when I play a 1.85:1 aspect ratio DVD. I don't know of a player that automatically crops the picture to fit to 16:9 screens but there may be some. I don't think the Zenith remembers zoom settings and if not, then you would have to zoom each time you must get rid of the black bars. The Zenith does not stretch anamorphic DVDs. If you play a non-anamorphic letterbox DVD, it does stretch when using upconversion. I can't find anyway to disable stretching letterbox 4:3 DVDs at 1080i and therefore don't use the Zenith DVB318 for 4:3 DVDs whether letterbox or 1.33:1 aspect ratio. In my opinion, the picture quality at anything other than 1080i isn't very good.

Chris

Originally posted by Alto101
So as long as I am watching an anamorphic 1.85:1 DVD, the gray bars will either be very small or won't even display on my TV due to overscan, correct?

Therefore, the only time I need to adjust the zoom is on non-anamorphic DVD's, correct? I don't own any full-screen DVD's so that is not going to be a problem.

Thanks for the help.

Yes. Again, with non-anamorphic DVDs I haven't been able to use 720p or 1080i without stretching. All non-anamorphic DVDs are formatted for 4:3, whether full-screen p&s or letterbox. I only use the DVB318 for anamorphic DVDs. If you are able to get acceptable picture quality on non-anamorphic DVDs, I would like to hear the method.

Chris

Originally posted by Spenser2022
If you have any further explanations/resolutions for this rolling effect, I'd be happy to give them a shot. Otherwise, I gotta chalk things up to incompatibilities between the unit and my display and move on.

I agree that the waving effect you are getting is probably an issue between the DVB318 and your specific TV. The Mits won't accept a 720p input and that's why that mode on the Zenith DVD doesn't work with your TV. The DVB318s do seem to have slightly non-standard timing of the video signals, at least over the component output. This shows up as the image shifted a little horizontally from what you get with other 1080i sources. This is probably due to a non-standard "front porch" timing on the video signal. Some TVs handle this without any problem while others may not.

Ron Jones

Picked up one of these bad boiz from Cousin's Video last week, and I'm loving it so far.

Flashed it back to the old firmware within the first 5 minutes of having it hooked up via component cables through my Sony AVR to my Sony 57" CRT and am highly impressed with the picture quality. It also plays my burnt DVD-R's and DVD+R's with no issues(Fuji and HP).

As was discussed above, I'm using this unit as a stop-gap until the HD-DVD format wars shake out.

If you're having any doubts about picking one up, or even using Cousin's Video, think again. Both are highly recommended IMO.

Can someone convert the region hack to winzip and send it to me please? I can't get that other to work. thanks

brentjax75@hotmail.com

Hi:

AS I read through the thread I bacame confused about the firmware upgrade (pre/post 2004). I just bought the player and plan on just using component video. Should I run the firmware fix to establish it as a 2003 model?

Originally posted by sixwest
Hi:

AS I read through the thread I bacame confused about the firmware upgrade (pre/post 2004). I just bought the player and plan on just using component video. Should I run the firmware fix to establish it as a 2003 model?

YES! Otherwise it will not upconvert most DVD's via component output.

Originally posted by BileHazard
I have a Hitachi 51F510 HDTV, it has HDMI. Finally bought a DVI-HDMI cable. Hooked it upped and froze as stated by other people in this thread. How have others who have tried to hook up an HDMI TV to this DVD player made it work?

No problems whatsoever with the Zenith DVB318 connected via DVI-HDMI cable to a Toshiba 46HM84. As instructed in the TV's manual, I turn the TV on first, switch to the HDMI input, then turn on the DVD player.

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
Yes. Again, with non-anamorphic DVDs I haven't been able to use 720p or 1080i without stretching. All non-anamorphic DVDs are formatted for 4:3, whether full-screen p&s or letterbox. I only use the DVB318 for anamorphic DVDs. If you are able to get acceptable picture quality on non-anamorphic DVDs, I would like to hear the method.

Chris

Chris,

I've owned two of these units since they first became available in the US. When watching letterboxed non-anamorphic titles, I use the ZOOM button on the player to achieve the correct aspect ratio. For example, on Disney's "Tron", which has an aspect ratio of 2.20:1, I press the ZOOM button twice (400%, then 1600% zoom), then once more to get to the onscreen display of a rectangle with arrows (in the lower right corner of the screen). By using the 4 arrow buttons on the remote, I'm able to adjust the height (and width) of the image. Once you've done this with a few different titles, you can make the correct adjustments almost automatically without having to concentrate on whether the image "looks right" or not. It is by no means a straightforward, user-friendly method for compensating for the horizontal stretching introduced by the scaling to 720p/1080i, but it works every time.

---Rudy

Originally posted by Rudy1
It is by no means a straightforward, user-friendly method for compensating for the horizontal stretching introduced by the scaling to 720p/1080i, but it works every time.

---Rudy

Thanks Rudy.

Chris

Bah, I've had this player for about 6 months now. First the remote went out after 4 months, then a couple times it decided to randomly "shut down" during a movie. Now it will randomly produce a "Snow" picture during movies then go back to normal. Atleast it doesn't lose sound during the snow screen. It also is very slooow to respond when using ANY buttons on the front panel-very annoying.
Btw, I have it hooked up to the DVI on my 50" Sony RP-LCD so when it works it looks pretty good.
Anybody have these problems or a suggestion on how to fix them? Firmware upgrade maybe? Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by Fredline
Anybody have these problems or a suggestion on how to fix them? Firmware upgrade maybe? Thanks in advance.

Send the unit in for repair or exchange since it's still under warranty. I cant imagine firmware fixing anything like you're describing.

Good luck.... and if you do anything with it let us know how it shakes out.

Hello All:

I recently bought the Zenith and ran the original firmware file for upconversion using component video. I'm not sure it worked however. I put the CD-R with the .bin file twice and kept getting a "no disc" display on the screen.

Is there a set procedure for installing the file in the unit? I'm I using the right disc type?

Thanks!

rename the file to LGROMOUT.bin if you didnt..... that should do the trick.

make you finalize the CDR as well.

Originally posted by Rudy1
Chris,

I've owned two of these units since they first became available in the US. When watching letterboxed non-anamorphic titles, I use the ZOOM button on the player to achieve the correct aspect ratio. For example, on Disney's "Tron", which has an aspect ratio of 2.20:1, I press the ZOOM button twice (400%, then 1600% zoom), then once more to get to the onscreen display of a rectangle with arrows (in the lower right corner of the screen). By using the 4 arrow buttons on the remote, I'm able to adjust the height (and width) of the image. Once you've done this with a few different titles, you can make the correct adjustments almost automatically without having to concentrate on whether the image "looks right" or not. It is by no means a straightforward, user-friendly method for compensating for the horizontal stretching introduced by the scaling to 720p/1080i, but it works every time.

---Rudy

I tried that manual method of resizing when I had a 318 briefly for testing. Terrible scaling artifacts, almost unwatchable on my DLP.

You're much better off with a player that does 4:3 pillarboxing automatically, and has the right type of zoom mode to handle non-anamorphic letterbox DVD's. Momitsu, Bravo, I think the Oppo with the updated firmware all do this perfectly.

Originally posted by gshelley61
I tried that manual method of resizing when I had a 318 briefly for testing. Terrible scaling artifacts, almost unwatchable on my DLP.

You're much better off with a player that does 4:3 pillarboxing automatically, and has the right type of zoom mode to handle non-anamorphic letterbox DVD's. Momitsu, Bravo, I think the Oppo with the updated firmware all do this perfectly.

For 4:3 material, I use a ISCAN Ultra to process the 480i Svideo output of the DVB318 and the result is excellent. :cool:

I see the Zenith DVB318 is still available from Amazon.com. Are these players still able to output 1080i over the component outputs?

Originally posted by fjerina
I see the Zenith DVB318 is still available from Amazon.com. Are these players still able to output 1080i over the component outputs? Only if you downgrade the firmware to an earlier version.

Originally posted by gshelley61
I tried that manual method of resizing when I had a 318 briefly for testing. Terrible scaling artifacts, almost unwatchable on my DLP.

You're much better off with a player that does 4:3 pillarboxing automatically, and has the right type of zoom mode to handle non-anamorphic letterbox DVD's. Momitsu, Bravo, I think the Oppo with the updated firmware all do this perfectly.

You must have had a bad player then. I've used the zoom a couple of times on letterbox non anamorphic and there was no change in picture quality when simply stretching it slightly upward (taller)

For optimum zooming on a 4x3 letterbox title, it must be a true film-mode title. Then the zooming will work fine. If the player has to use video mode deinterlacing, all bets are off and the zoom will be terrible.

Originally posted by Kid Red
You must have had a bad player then. I've used the zoom a couple of times on letterbox non anamorphic and there was no change in picture quality when simply stretching it slightly upward (taller)


I agree stretching the picture using the zoom on non anamorphic DVDs does not change the PQ. I like that option better than the ones on my Sony DVD player which all hurt PQ.

Hello everyone. I am getting a unit with a December 2003 build which has been confirmed does upconversion through component and DVI output. I only plan on using the DVI output with Better Cables Magic DVI cable. It will be connected to a Sony KDF70XBR950 LCD TV. I am not familiar with the documented "white crush" issue that some owners have reported. Can someone kindly point me to where I can get the newer firmware to upgrade which supposedly corrects this anomaly? I researched the site and the downgrade is available. Also, does anyone have the same pairing of the Sony and the Zenith? Do you upconvert to 720p which the set upconverts to its native resolution of 788p or upconvert it to 1080i which the set downconverts to its native resolution of 788p? Thank you all in advance.

firmware link........

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/michaeltlv/lg_dv7832_firmware.html

Thanks Ramsrule.

Does this player work with PAL discs? Thanks

tacos, yes, if you are in the US, you can definitely play back PAL discs that will get converted to NTSC.

Not sure if this is the correct term, but I heard the term 'color banding' before, and wonder if this is what I have been seeing with my 318.

I noticed it especially on "Collateral". Throughout the movie, for instance when showing faces, I will see thin stripes going across the screen, with a greenish,reddish or bluish tone. (You can see details, it is just the hue that is off) Reminds me of the vhs tapes of yester-year. This is what I been able to determine so far:
a) I doubt it is my tv. It shows HD Material without any such exhibits, and never rember seing it with my old Sony dvd player either.

b) I use Monster cables, so I don't think it is a bandwidth issue

c) I only notice it when I upconvert to 1080i (Component). 480p does not seem to have this problem.

Now, I can live with using 480P i guess, since the Faroudjia chip is really nice, but I do like the smoother 1080i picture as well. However, for me it so annoying that I'd rather do 480p.

Has anyone seen this? I'll try with some other movies, but I saw it previously, watching B5 on DVD as well. Thought it was a subpar transfer in that case, but now I realise this must be a problem with the player...

For reference, I have a Pioneer CRT HDRPTV (Widescreen) 58"

Ok, I know this has been beaten to death but can anyone please give me straight forward answers to any of these questions?

First I have a February 2004 build version of the LGDV7832NXC (Zenith 318) and a Sanyo HT30744 HDTV.

- Is there a way to get DVI->HDMI working? I have a DVI->HDMI Monster converter and when plugged in, the DVD player freezes at Hello. (common problem I know)

- Seeing how both my DVD player and TV will upconvert, will the TV NOT upconvert because it is already done so by the DVD player? I assume the DVD player would do a better job with the Faroudja chip?

- Is Component better in terms of PQ than DVI? Should I be just using the Component hook up anyway and not worry about the DVI? This would save me $60 for the Monster "overpriced" converter :)

- Should I upgrade the firmware on the DVD player?
I read this "One firmware allows 1080i via component and has white crush via DVI, and builds from July onwards have no DVI white crush but don't allow copy-portected DVDs to play over component at 1080i."
I assume, seeing how I have a Februray 2004 build, I should not and live with the white crush issue. (I must admit, I have no idea what this white crush issue is)

- Anyone know how to fix, or experienced, sound balancing for this TV or DVD? I'm not sure which is causing the issue, but the voices seem drowned out compared to the music and sound effects. I definitely noticed this with SharkTale but I think I noticed it as well with regular cable TV. So, I'm thinking it's more a TV issue.

I would greatly appreciate some help, I have read through those 2 looooonnngggg threads (Zenith 318 and SanyoHT30744) and there seem to be so many contractictions that I'm really confused.

Mako22, I'm not at all an expert on this, but on the second question, the dvd player can upconvert to 1080i, in which case there is nothing to do for your tv. Not sure how your (or any hdtv) handles say interlaced (480i) or progressive (480p) signal though. I.e. I'm not sure if it would make a 480i signal progressive, or if it would rescale it to 1080i. You should really do a comparison anyway. Odds are you'll think the Faroudjia makes a good job making the image progressive, but in some cases people prefer the tv's processing.

3rd question; Theoretically, I guess DVI is superior, but seeing you have whitecrush, and to save some money(component sure is cheaper anyway, if you want a decent cable or need a converter), I'm pretty sure you won't see much difference.

4th question;does not apply to me seeing I use component, but I believe the LG firmware would fix the whitecrush on DVI, AND keep it region free. As I said though, I have not tried, since I use component.

5th question, get a good surround system with a really nice center speaker :)

Thanks Tomes,

Concerning the firmware, it says that it will fix the white crush but then not be able to upconvert to 1080i on the Component, which is why I was wondering if I won't be albe to get DVI->HDMI working then I won't upgrade the firmware.

Unfortunately for the surround idea, I blew my budget already :)
<my wife> "$1000 for a TV? $50 for that little thing (converter)? $30 for a DVD to set up your TV (DVE)? $250 for a DVD..." I just used up a years worth of Brownie points :)

I guess the main question is if there is a way to get DVI->HDMI working between these 2 products? Is this a Sanyo thing or an LG thing or an HDMI thing? I'm assuming if LG is going to put a DVI plug on a product that it must work, so is it because it goes to HDMI? Any chance this would be fixed in a future firmware update?

Seeing how I just bought both of these units, I'd appreciate any clarity on this as I can still bring them back.

Cheers

Originally posted by Mako22
I guess the main question is if there is a way to get DVI->HDMI working between these 2 products? Is this a Sanyo thing or an LG thing or an HDMI thing? I'm assuming if LG is going to put a DVI plug on a product that it must work, so is it because it goes to HDMI? Any chance this would be fixed in a future firmware update?

Seeing how I just bought both of these units, I'd appreciate any clarity on this as I can still bring them back.

Your player should NOT freeze on "hello". The DVI connector works fine, a conversion to HDMI is straightforward, and given your symptoms, it likely has nothing to do with the TV. Suggestion: Do you have the component outputs connected also? Using both at the same time apparently will create problems.

In general, I have not seen much to suggest you will see any picture-quality improvement by choosing DVI over component.

Good luck! It's a fine player for the price. Mark

Mark,

No, I don't have the components connected. I don't actually even have component cables, as this was the last one and a demo at Future Shop and they knocked off $50 because there were no cables. How much are component cables anyway? I hope not as much as the DVI->HDMI converter.

I've read other people have experienced this freezing on Hello too (actually on other players too) but I just can't believe LG would release a product where this didn't work.

I know some people are getting this to work, is this only on Build versions from December 2003? And where does the LG February 2004 Build fit into this? Does my unit have the older firmware that enables 1080i upconversion on Component?

Mako22-

Put in a DVD, then stop or pause it, and press the "upconvert" button on the front of the player - if the readout changes to "720p" or "1080i", you've still got upconverting capability; if not, follow this re: the firmware to upconvert:

LG has made available a firmware fix that restores the component video 1080i upconversion capability of the DVD player.

The main file floating out there will not work in its raw form from the LG download site. You need to rename the file to lgromout (.bin extension will automatically be added) and burn it to a cd and it will work. Put the CD into the player ... the program pops up and asks if you want to continue ...

If the player does not ask ... then it did not work.

That file is here:

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/michaeltlv/lg_dv7832_firmware.html

It ONLY works with component, NOT DVI/HDMI, which is good news for you, since component cables are generally cheaper than DVI/HDMI.

I have a Panasonic L300U projector. I've been using a Bravo D1 since it (and the Momitsu V88) is the only player that is non-hdcp over dvi and will do the custom timings neccesary to use the L300U's DVI port. Well, my D1 just died and i'm looking for a replacement. I'm not getting another Bravo and the Momitsu is nearly as buggy. I know i'll be upgrading my projector in the next year or so to something that will accept HDCP DVI or HDMI. What i'm considering as a DVD replacement is a 318/7832 and use firmware that allows 1080i over component with my current projector and when I upgrade my projector update to the firmware with the fixed DVI. Does this sound like a good course of action? Any other recomendations?

Thanks

Originally posted by Stephen Hopkins
I have a Panasonic L300U projector. I've been using a Bravo D1 since it (and the Momitsu V88) is the only player that is non-hdcp over dvi and will do the custom timings neccesary to use the L300U's DVI port. Well, my D1 just died and i'm looking for a replacement. I'm not getting another Bravo and the Momitsu is nearly as buggy. I know i'll be upgrading my projector in the next year or so to something that will accept HDCP DVI or HDMI. What i'm considering as a DVD replacement is a 318/7832 and use firmware that allows 1080i over component with my current projector and when I upgrade my projector update to the firmware with the fixed DVI. Does this sound like a good course of action? Any other recomendations?

Thanks

Well, IMO, it depends on how good your current projector handles 1080i, since anything else via component isnt really recommended with the 318.

My projector is 540p native so the conversion from 1080i is pretty strait forward. I get better PQ from my HD box w/ a 1080i output than 720p. I'm pretty sure 1080i from the 318 will be a good comprimise between price, performance now, and performance later (new projector, 720p over DVI w/ updated firmware).

yeah, I would think that component would be fine with the old projector..... but I dont have any info for the new setup since I specificaly bought the 318 for component 1080i only.

Have you done any research as to how the 318 performs at 720p over DVI/HDMI? Assuming you re-flash it with the new firmware to eliminate the white-crush ofcourse.....

My thoughts were to go with the Sony NS975 if I was wanting to use DVI/HDMI, but said heck with it and took the 318 to ease the integration into my current setup(switching it and my HTL-HD via an AVR).

Good luck, and keep us posted on how it goes.

AVWH,

Thanks for the comments, I was planning on getting some Component cables today anyway and I'll try out what you've suggested.

AFA the DVI output to HDMI goes, can anyone confirm that they have this working with this player? And if so, what build date and version (Zenith or LG) do you have?

And also, will the Faroudja chip do a much better job at upconverting than my Sanyo HT30744.

I'm getting a bit discouraged with my purchases as now I'm asking myself "IF I can't get DVI->HDMI to work and my TV already does upconversion, why don't I just get a DVD player that has Component out and no upconversion?".

As a further question, do all HDTVs now do upconversion? And if Component and DVI look very close AFA PQ goes, then why would anyone get a DVD player like this? Please bring me back to liking this player ;o) I'm starting to doubt my choice...

What am I missing?

mako22:

Hate to be the bearer of the bad news DVB-318's DVI does not work with Sanyo HT30744 via DVI-HDMI cable. I have both units.

Having said that, DVB318's upconvertion to 1080i still looks much better on the HT30744 than the non-upconverted (using component input of course)

Hey Buzzly, whether it's bad news or not, it's good to have an answer, thanks :)

So, then this would be a Sanyo issue? I actually bought a Toshiba 5970 unit before this LG one but it was terribly slow in the menus and I couldn't bare it. But the HDMI was working there (although that was HDMI to HDMI). So, the problem is the signal that the Sanyo is getting from the LG? Or is it the Monster converter adapter? Think it would make a difference if I was using a DVI cable into a DVI->HDMI adapter instead of a DVI->HDMI adapter into an HDMI cable? I couldn't imagine.

Greetings

At 720p dvi ... you still get the edge discoloration in the image ... but now it is a solid line versus the dotted pattern in 480p.

The 1080i is still cleaner.

Regards

I don't know who is at fault, Sanyo or LG/Zenith. As far as I know, DVB-318's does work at all with the DVI-> HDMI cable connection. You can check the Sanyo TV thread here.


Originally posted by Mako22
Hey Buzzly, whether it's bad news or not, it's good to have an answer, thanks :)

So, then this would be a Sanyo issue? I actually bought a Toshiba 5970 unit before this LG one but it was terribly slow in the menus and I couldn't bare it. But the HDMI was working there (although that was HDMI to HDMI). So, the problem is the signal that the Sanyo is getting from the LG? Or is it the Monster converter adapter? Think it would make a difference if I was using a DVI cable into a DVI->HDMI adapter instead of a DVI->HDMI adapter into an HDMI cable? I couldn't imagine.

Ok, just ordered the 318 after reading all of this, but have a quick question. I have a Samsung HLN5065W and it has DVI, so I am going to upgrade the firmware and will just use DVI from here on out. What setting on the player would be best for watching DVD's? 1080i or 720P?

Oh, and Amazon has this for $179 with free shipping!

http://store.cousinsvideo.com/zen-dvb318.html

even though it states 1-2 weeks, I received mine in 3 days.... free shipping.

Originally posted by JGarrison
Ok, just ordered the 318 after reading all of this, but have a quick question. I have a Samsung HLN5065W and it has DVI, so I am going to upgrade the firmware and will just use DVI from here on out. What setting on the player would be best for watching DVD's? 1080i or 720P?

it all depends on the unit's build date.

the best way to use this player is old firmware, 1080i, over component connection.

Anything else and you can run into various problems and/or PQ issues.

Originally posted by Ramsrule
it all depends on the unit's build date.

the best way to use this player is old firmware, 1080i, over component connection.

Anything else and you can run into various problems and/or PQ issues.

I will assume it is the newer model. You think running comp over DVI is better? If I do go with the Component hookup, the Samsung has a few different setups in the back. Input 1 is 480i/480p only and then it has 3 more that are 480p/720/1080. It says in the manual to hook up DVD players to the 480i/480p only, is that would I should do then set the DVD player to 1080i?

if you have the option to go 1080i over component with the 318, then that's the recommended way to use it.

I would assume that the TV would then take the 1080i and convert it to 720p, but am not 100 percent sure.

You can play with the unit once you get it and determine which connection works best for you along with what resolution.

You'll have the ability to flash it back and forth between the two types of firmware, so if you're not satisfied with DVI, you can try flashing it with the old firmware and hook it up via component.... and if that's worse, you can flash it back to the newer firmware with no issues.

Just got my new DVB318 back today via swap with Zenith. Old one was freezing during layer conversion on some DVDs. Zenith was very cool about it. I was even a couple of weeks past the warrantee and they still did the swap.

Question- it has an Oct. 2004 build date so I am guessing I will have to revert firmware for upconversion via component. I read the FAQ for reverting firmware but just so I understand- once I have the LV700i1.bin
downloaded, I need to rename it LGROMOUT.bin first and then burn it to disk, correct? Thanks.

I just posted this as a separate thread and then realized I should probably post here.

Zenith DVB318 and Lip Synch Issue
I know I have seen this discussed but cant find the information Im looking for.

I have a DVB 318 running through component cables at 1080i. Very often while watching DVDs I notice a lip synch delay. I believe I have heard it has to do with the internal scaler of the unit.

Does anyone know what causes this issue and how to fix it or minimize it?

Thanks.

I should mention that I am using the coax out for audio to my receiver. Its definitely not the receiver as I have recently bought a new one and it did it on both the older one and this newer one as well...

I have no lip-sync problems using the component outs and the fiber-optic connection to my AVR.

nor do I using co-ax out audio and component video. :confused:

Originally posted by Ramsrule
Flashed it back to the old firmware within the first 5 minutes of having it hooked up via component cables through my Sony AVR to my Sony 57" CRT and am highly impressed with the picture quality. It also plays my burnt DVD-R's and DVD+R's with no issues(Fuji and HP).


Remember do this tweak (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3929280#post3929280) to your Sony. It will fix the green undersaturation problem caused by 318.

I'll take a look at that when I get home this evening..... appreciate it!

a question...... I'm sharing the same input on the Sony with both the 318 and my set top box...... switching them via my AVR.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wouldnt changing the settings on that input have an adverse effect on my HD programming when using the STB?

Or is there a way around it by modifying a certain "mode" on the Sony so that I can simply switch to it when I want to watch DVD's, then back to the other for HD?

Thanks for any reply in advance....

Originally posted by Ramsrule
a question...... I'm sharing the same input on the Sony with both the 318 and my set top box...... switching them via my AVR.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wouldnt changing the settings on that input have an adverse effect on my HD programming when using the STB?

Or is there a way around it by modifying a certain "mode" on the Sony so that I can simply switch to it when I want to watch DVD's, then back to the other for HD?

Thanks for any reply in advance....

Yes you can tweak one mode to work best with your HDTV STB and one mode to be best with the DVB318 and switch back and forth.

Chris

Originally posted by Ramsrule
a question...... I'm sharing the same input on the Sony with both the 318 and my set top box...... switching them via my AVR.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wouldnt changing the settings on that input have an adverse effect on my HD programming when using the STB?

If you are sharing the same video input for both DVD and STB and using the same resolution, then this change will affect both. Actually from the link you can see how many different MTRX settings it has based on input and resolution.

I connect 318 directly to input 5 and connect STB directly to input 7 (DVI). Since input 5 and input 7 are not sharing the same MTRX setting, it will work right for both.

I am sure all this is covered in this huge thread but scrolling through over a thousand post is hard to do.

I have ordered this DVD player from ecost.com and should be in any day now. Want to have the 1080i via Component Cables since my TV doesn't have DVI or HDMI.

So what is the cutoff date for manufactoring of unit where I have to install the old software? Is there a way to tell if it is upconverting to 1080i or do you just go by the manufactor date?

I downloaded the old software via a link a few pages back on this thread and burned onto a CD in case I need to install it. Now what? Do I just insert into the DVD when it arrives and does the firmware do its thing automatically or is there something else I will need to do to get the old firmware to install?

Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by TNVOL
I am sure all this is covered in this huge thread but scrolling through over a thousand I have ordered this DVD player from ecost.com and should be in any day now. Want to have the 1080i via Component Cables since my TV doesn't have DVI or HDMI.

So what is the cutoff date for manufactoring of unit where I have to install the old software? Is there a way to tell if it is upconverting to 1080i or do you just go by the manufactor date?

I downloaded the old software via a link a few pages back on this thread and burned onto a CD in case I need to install it. Now what? Do I just insert into the DVD when it arrives and does the firmware do its thing automatically or is there something else I will need to do to get the old firmware to install?

Thanks in advance.

I wouldn't rely on manufacturing date, if it isn't terribly difficult to hook it up, just do that and you will know immediately. You can upgrade the firmware after it has been connected so I don't see how it matters whether you can tell by date. I have two, one in built in March, 2004 that had the old firmware and one built in October, 2004 that came with the new firmware. My bet is that you will get the new firmware.

Chris

Originally posted by TNVOL
I downloaded the old software via a link a few pages back on this thread and burned onto a CD in case I need to install it. Now what? Do I just insert into the DVD when it arrives and does the firmware do its thing automatically or is there something else I will need to do to get the old firmware to install?

Thanks in advance.

assuming you've named the file correctly and all, it might work.... I say might because I think I read somewhere that it only works from a CD and not DVD.

If you put it in and get a disk error, you'll know something was done wrong. If it works, it asks you to hit a key on the remote if I remember correctly and updates it's self.

Nothing to it.

What are the negatives with this machine?

Originally posted by teacherrob9
What are the negatives with this machine?

The only negatives for me are the way it handles 4:3 DVDs and macroblocking. All of the players that use the Faroudja FLI23xx chips probably have the macroblocking problem to some extent. The macroblocking issue is bad with some displays and not bad with others. I have a standard progressive scan DVD player and second HD display that I use for my few DVDs that don't work well with this player so I am happy with it. I still think it is the best player for upconversion over component to 1080i and nowhere near the best for anything else. It does a good job with 1080i over DVI but I think there are now better players for that purpose, the Oppo DV971H being one.

Other people have more issues than I do so take the time to read this thread and others regarding the problems.

Chris

Forgive if this is a dumb question:

I use the player with DVI since my component jacks are all spoken for. I'd like to install the firmware but I'm not sure if I have the right one. Is the DVI firmware from http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/experttips/michaeltlv/lg_dv7832_firmware.html the correct one? Is there a newer one that takes care of the image ghosting as well?

Also, will the machine still be region-free, PAL and all that?

Thanks

My understanding is the upconversion will not work w/ DVI or HDMI b/c of macrovision protection - only via component.

Originally posted by AVWH
My understanding is the upconversion will not work w/ DVI or HDMI b/c of macrovision protection - only via component.

Upconversion works fine with DVI and in fact it is the other way around, the protection prevents upconversion over component. The new firmware corrects some video problems like white crush over DVI but upconversion was always available over DVI. The old firmware allows for upconversion over component despite protection. Either version will upconvert non-protected DVDs over component.

Chris

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
Upconversion works fine with DVI and in fact it is the other way around, the protection prevents upconversion over component. The new firmware corrects some video problems like white crush over DVI but upconversion was always available over DVI. The old firmware allows for upconversion over component despite protection. Either version will upconvert non-protected DVDs over component.

Chris

Chris,

How do you know that the player is actually upcoverting? The manual says at page 10:

"The selected resolution and output resolution may be different during playing back a DVD on which copy protection signals are recorded. e.g. The output resolution is changed to 480p automatically even though the selected resolution is 1080i".

My TV does not have the capability to display the resolution (at least I don't know how to do it - it's a Samsung HLN4365W). So how does one know if this "downconversion" from 1080i to 480p takes place? Is this an issue with component only, or both component and DVI?

stop the DVD while it's playing..... then change the resolution 720p..... let it play for a bit, then stop it again.

Change the resolution..... it should go to 1080i if it didnt reset it's self. If it reset it's self, then the next resolution would be 480p.

In other words, it wont "hold" the HD resolution setting and will reset it's self back to the initial selectable resolution.

Hope this helps....

It should be easy to tell, 480p looks like crap on the 318. I use mine with component at 1080i, I have never had a problem the unit not playing or downconverting copy protected DVD

Hello all. I downloaded the new firmware onto a CDR from the keogh link [thanks Ramsrule]. I am using the DVI-D connection since all the component inputs are spoken for. I've done it twice. The first version did not have have the bin rename. It did not work. I read somewhere that you have to attach the bin tag before burning it. Did so and it still did not work. Both times I kept getting the "No Disc" message. Is there something wrong with the player. It plays DVDs and CDs with no problem. Please advise. Thanks in advance.

make sure the file name is LGROMOUT.bin...... check this via windows explorer.

Also ensure that your PC is showing file extensions..... if it's not, then it can be LGROMOUT with a file type of bin.

File must be burned to a CD, and finalizing would help, but I dont think it's required.

some people are doing the firmware on the 418.

when people are doing it on this machine it says no disc. be sure your upgrading a 318. might sound dumb me telling this but beleive me , people are trying to upgrade the 418 with the 318 firmware.

Originally posted by Ramsrule
stop the DVD while it's playing..... then change the resolution 720p..... let it play for a bit, then stop it again.

Change the resolution..... it should go to 1080i if it didnt reset it's self. If it reset it's self, then the next resolution would be 480p.

In other words, it wont "hold" the HD resolution setting and will reset it's self back to the initial selectable resolution.

Hope this helps....

Thanks for the explanation. It would be nice to have the resolution displayed somewhere. One more question: do I have to change the resolution everytime I play a new DVD, or after the player is turned off?

Does anyone know of a copy protected DVD that will not upconvert?

I havent looked back through this thread to see, but there was a small list posted somewhere of several titles that didnt reset the resolution.

And as for having to reset it every time, no.... once it sticks, it's set unless you manually change it.

Bruman,

It's definitely a 318.

ok, just wanted to make sure. I know people who have tried it and didnt realize they were 2 different machines and No Disc was result. :)

Originally posted by lirong
I just posted this as a separate thread and then realized I should probably post here.

Zenith DVB318 and Lip Synch Issue
I know I have seen this discussed but cant find the information Im looking for.

I have a DVB 318 running through component cables at 1080i. Very often while watching DVDs I notice a lip synch delay. I believe I have heard it has to do with the internal scaler of the unit.

Does anyone know what causes this issue and how to fix it or minimize it?

Thanks.

I've had lip sync issues as well, but haven't been able to determine if they're coming from my TV (HLN567 and HLP5674) or from the 318.

I've tried component and DVI with the same results. Samsung's replaced my HLN567W for the new HLP5674 and I still have a sync problem, although it's not as bad. I want to say that it's the 318 causing it. I have June 2004 firmware I believe. Maybe I should try flashing my unit and if that doesn't work, call Zenith.

Anyone successfully use this player with the AE700U? I am having the standard freeze at HELLO. I am using a 30' DVI cable with a RAM Electronics DVI-HDMI adapter. I never had a problem with the DVI cable using my Sony HS10, so I know the cable is okay.


What DVI-HDMI adapter will work with the 318???

Just curious when using the correct firmware (DVI Fix or Component fix) is there a noticable difference when viewing with either DVI or Component? (via RPTV)

For those that have the option of the 2 which are you using.

Thanks

Originally posted by battscrew
Just curious when using the correct firmware (DVI Fix or Component fix) is there a noticable difference when viewing with either DVI or Component? (via RPTV)

For those that have the option of the 2 which are you using.

Thanks

I think the picture looks better with DVI using the new firmware when compared to the old firmware using component. The old firmware favors component so the answer is simple. If you use DVI, use the new firmware. If you use component use the old firmware since it upconverts over component. I have one player with the old firmware and one with the new firmware and I have decided to stick with the new firmware over DVI. I believe there are better options now for DVI at the $200 price, the Oppo DV971H for one but despite the fact I like the DVI picture better than component now, I don't think there are any players that upconvert over component better than the DVB318.

Chris

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard

I don't think there are any players that upconvert over component better than the DVB318.

Chris


I don't know if it's still available but I tell you the Momitsu V-880 and the V-880 Deluxe (and most likely the V-880N) DO upconvert over component better than the DVB-318.

They also upconvert better over DVI.

The Zenith has the edge in stability of operation.

mmccking-

IM fairly certain its the Zenith thats causing the lip synch issues as no other source I play is showing the same issue. Ive also now run it through 2 different receivers with the same results.

Is anyone like MichaelTLV still out there cruising this thread? Maybe he has an idea?

Originally posted by wblynch
I don't know if it's still available but I tell you the Momitsu V-880 and the V-880 Deluxe (and most likely the V-880N) DO upconvert over component better than the DVB-318.

They also upconvert better over DVI.

The Zenith has the edge in stability of operation.

I have never seen a Momitsu player but from everything I have read I believe the build quality isn't good enough to mess with. My Zenith players seem to be very well made.

Chris

Originally posted by lirong

IM fairly certain its the Zenith thats causing the lip synch issues as no other source I play is showing the same issue.


Have you tried the optical link? That may make a bit of a difference.

Originally posted by Chris Gerhard
I have never seen a Momitsu player but from everything I have read I believe the build quality isn't good enough to mess with. My Zenith players seem to be very well made.

Chris

I have both and the Zenith is no better built than the Momitsu.

The Zenith REMOTE is built better than the Momitsu remote, however.

I got a call from LG and they faxed me the "fix" to the DVI->HDMI freezing problem...

They faxed me a special notice which has 7 steps:
1. Hook up DVI cable to DVD and TV
2. Turn on TV
3. Turn on DVD
4. Select appropriate video input on TV
5. Press UPCONVERSION to set the desired selection
6. Play movie
7. Repeat 2,3 and 4 whenever you watch a movie

Ummm... is it just me or could they have just said turn your TV on first.

I'm sceptical that this will "fix" my problem, anyone with an HDMI TV want to try this out?

I will need to go buy a cable to try this out and frankly I don't think this is going to make things work... I could be wrong (and hope I am). I can't remember if I had the TV on first before turning on the DVD player when I tried previously...

Originally posted by Mako22
I got a call from LG and they faxed me the "fix" to the DVI->HDMI freezing problem...

They faxed me a special notice which has 7 steps:
1. Hook up DVI cable to DVD and TV
2. Turn on TV
3. Turn on DVD
4. Select appropriate video input on TV
5. Press UPCONVERSION to set the desired selection
6. Play movie
7. Repeat 2,3 and 4 whenever you watch a movie

Ummm... is it just me or could they have just said turn your TV on first.

I'm sceptical that this will "fix" my problem, anyone with an HDMI TV want to try this out?

I will need to go buy a cable to try this out and frankly I don't think this is going to make things work... I could be wrong (and hope I am). I can't remember if I had the TV on first before turning on the DVD player when I tried previously...

The TV has to be on first. The manual for my Toshiba DLP clearly states that, and that sequence has always worked no matter what DVI source (including the Zenith DVB318) I've connected to the HDMI port. The one time I attempted to do it in reverse order (turn on the DVI source first), the TV kept flashing an error message (generated by the DVI source, I presume) that the port was "disabled".

I've tried optical and coax, both the same problem.

On another note, I just "upgraded" my firmware for the white crush via DVI image and now 1080i on my HLP5674 is awesome, however, when the 318 is set for 1080i I notice a lot of over-scan compared to 720p. Bummer :(

Still has the sync problem. If I do the quick rewind, it fixes the sync problem, but only for a second or two.

Originally posted by Rudy1
The TV has to be on first. The manual for my Toshiba DLP clearly states that, and that sequence has always worked no matter what DVI source (including the Zenith DVB318) I've connected to the HDMI port. The one time I attempted to do it in reverse order (turn on the DVI source first), the TV kept flashing an error message (generated by the DVI source, I presume) that the port was "disabled".

Sorry to be picky, but are you saying that you have had success with the DVB318 connected to your Toshiba DLP through DVI to HDMI?

I went and bought a DVI->HDMI cable last night and tried LG's "fix"... I tried many different combinations and could not get it to work. The DVD player will freeze and you have to unplug it, no buttons work even power.

- TV on first... froze as soon as it started
- DVD on first and playing a movie... turn TV on and DVD player freezes right away.
- TV and DVD on but HDMI not plugged in, DVD freezes as soon as HDMI is plugged into the TV


So, if you have this working with the Tosh, then this must be a issue with my Sanyo HT30744 not communicating properly to the DVD player?

I'm going to contact LG again today...

EDIT: Wow, I got tech support right away at LG this time... He told me to hold the "stop" button down for 3 seconds and this will switch the player into regular mode instead of progressive mode... he said that sometimes if it is in progressive mode it can lock the system... he also said that no other buttons will work if this happens, which is what I am seeing... well I guess I have something to try tonight. ;)

I connected the DVB318 to my Toshiba DLP using a Monster Cable DVI/HDMI cable, and it worked just fine. I did not have a problem with freezing or anything like that, and based on my experience with the LG LST3410A (the error message I referred to in my previous post), I never attempted to use the DVD player unless the TV was on first. By the way, PQ via DVI (even with the firmware update) off the DVB318 is less than stellar....component video output at 1080i is as good as it gets with this particular player.

Ok I have the 318 hooked up via the DVI on my Mit 55 inch SS313. I don't have any component cables but are you saying 1080 picture could be better by going through component rather than DVI?

I purchased the DVB318 zenith and want to change the firmware to PRE July 2004. it is an OCT 2004 unit
MODEL: ZV700I1
REGION NO: 1
CHIPID:STM5589 cut 2.1
SERVO VER: 005D
GUI VER: V1.71D
PANEL VER: 2.04
MICOM VER: V1.92
PROM OPTION 55 53 00 47 16 55 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
add. info (OCT.2004 451-22410333)
I have a mitsubishi 65inch HD ready 16:9 projection with only componet HD input! I want to make the 1080i upconversion work with all dvds.
I tried the links down loaded the file ( renamed lgromout.bin) and burned to a CD.. not DVD. THE player would say NO DISC! It played LOTR TWO TOWERS in 1080i but other DVDS go to 480P.
PLEASE ANY MORE INFO on how to get the firmware to TAKE/work on my unit. OR why it will not work with my unit.

Xostros,

Did you finalize the CD? You need to.

Originally posted by Mako22
Xostros,

Did you finalize the CD? You need to.

What exactly do you mean by "finalize" the CD?
I have this unit on order and have only Component Video inputs on my TV so will likely need to do this downconversion also. I have already burned the file to a CD- RW disk. Do I need to do something else now?

Originally posted by Nelson9937955
Ok I have the 318 hooked up via the DVI on my Mit 55 inch SS313. I don't have any component cables but are you saying 1080 picture could be better by going through component rather than DVI?

Independent professional reviewers (including Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity) have stated that this player's component video output provides the best image quality at 1080i...better even than over DVI. I've confirmed it by testing both versions of the firmware on my players.

Thanks Rudy1 for that info, I fell a bit better about "maybe" having to stay with Component if I can't get DVI -> HDMI to work.

I did try the "stop" button thing last night but it did not make a bit of difference... even if the player was not crashed, I didn't see any difference at all when pushing the stop button for more than 3 seconds.

TNVOL, by finalize I mean close the CD off so that nothing more can be copied to it... However, since you are using a CD-RW I'm not sure how this is done. This is performed in your Burning Software... there should be an option to close cd or finalize cd or something to that extent.

Good luck.

EDIT: EDIT:
Ok, just contacted LG again and got the same person I talked to before...

I was told that IF I had an LG or Zenith TV then this would work but otherwise this is hit and miss... ummm... Is there not a standard to follow?

Anyway, I mentioned the firmware upgrades and wondered if this could or would be fixed in the firmware... she has gone to consult with a "tech" and will get back to me...

Anyone have an LG or Zenith or "what's the other affiliated company?" TV hooked up to this player with DVI->HDMI working?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Whether DVI with the new firmware is better than component with the old firmware is probably display dependent as are many other opinions regarding which looks better, analog component or digital input. I can say that to me, DVI with the new firmware looks better than component with the old firmware when connected to my Panasonic PTL-500U 720p LCD projector. The difference isn't great and I wouldn't pay a nickel to have DVI over component just for the picture quality difference. I will use DVI while D-VHS is connected to component. I may switch and connect D-VHS to DVI since D-VHS is used much more than DVD with the projector. Some insist that DVI looks much better than component with D-VHS but my brief tests didn't convince me of that. I couldn't tell any difference. After using my HD TiVo connected to DVI with my XBR910, I gradually felt DVI looks better than component on that monitor but there wasn't a nickel's worth of difference there either.

Chris

On the lip synch issue:

I have tried both optical and coax and its the same on both. I have also tried the rewind a second or two "fix" and it doesnt solve the problem for me either...

IM wondering what would cause this and why only certain units seem to display the issue...

Originally posted by lirong
On the lip synch issue:

I have tried both optical and coax and its the same on both. I have also tried the rewind a second or two "fix" and it doesnt solve the problem for me either...

IM wondering what would cause this and why only certain units seem to display the issue...

What are your audio options in the setup menu?

There may be a clue there.

The problem was easy CD creators finalizing the session and not the whole CD. after burning 5-6 coasters LOL i got it to work THANKS AGAIN..... to bad it can't say zenith tho :(

With the pre-July'04 firmware my DVI @ 1080i shimmered. With the post-July'04 firmware DVI @ 1080i is rock solid...but with mucho overscan.

With either firmware component @ 1080i has swarming dots in dark areas which is a problem I've seen in most DLP sets (all HD2 and HD2+ RPTVs I've seen has this problem. HD3 sets didn't.)

I have my 318 connected to an HLP5674W.

NOW my zenith says LG on start up screen.......Is there any software out there that i can change the the looks of the start up screen. add text or put pictures even in its place? If so would love to know what software and how to go about it. TY

Originally posted by Xostros
NOW my zenith says LG on start up screen.......
Well seeing how the LG and the Zenith is really more or less the same item but with different labels/logos on them, and it's only a start up screen.... What is the real big problem with this?

Originally posted by Xostros
Is there any software out there that i can change the the looks of the start up screen.
NO.
Not unless you want to try try and hack into the firmware flash code itself, to try and make it show something else.

Originally posted by Xostros
NOW my zenith says LG on start up screen..

guess what My LG nows says Zenith...

Well, you guys could always swap the LG and Zenith logos/badges with each other now........;)

Originally posted by battscrew
guess what My LG nows says Zenith... Are you using the firmware that fixed the DVI white crushing problem but losing the ability to upconvert protected media through component? That is the firmware released by Zenith USA, so it will show Zenith logo.
MichaelTLV got the original firmware, the one has DVI white crushing problem but can upconvert everything through component, from LG Canada. Therefore if you use this firmware, it will show LG logo.

I accidentally left my DVB 318 looping the menu of a DVD for about 2 weeks. And now the digital audio outputs no longer work. Analog is still working. Any ideas of how I can reset or repair it. It's an older firmware model, and I need the component upconverting, so I can't really just throw it out.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Jeremy

damn what a bummer!

guess they are not meant to be left on.......

have you unplugged it for 30min ? I am sure you have tried that, no ?

make sure to check you menu to and check audio settings. sure you have done that also.

Just bought the zenith at amazon.com. Decent price.

Checked the menu audio settings, they are okay. I unplugged for 5 minutes, I'll try longer and report back.

hi guys,

if i am able to purchase dvb318 and momitsu (880dx or 880n) all at the same price, what will you guys recommend if my main pupose is to use component. I may use DVI in future but that will be 1 to 2 years from now.

i was initially planning on upgrading my graphics card and just do htpc but am afraid that i might not get the quality similar to these upconverting players and just waste my money.

Originally posted by maolen


if i am able to purchase dvb318 and momitsu (880dx or 880n) all at the same price, what will you guys recommend



The Momitsu V-880N has networking capabilities that the other two do not.

I have the original V-880 and a DVB-318. The V-880 gives a far superior picture over the Zenith. Plus the Momitsus don't misbehave on 4:3 content.

If you can get the V-880N for the same price then that's a real bargain and that's the one I would chose.

Just my opinion.

The momitsu has a serious roll off its frequency response. How can it produce a superior picture vs. 318?

Looks better to my eyes on my plasma.

I don't judge picture quality with some hocus-pocus machine.

I judge it by the way it looks to my eyes.

Dozens of visitors have taken the "blind" challenge and all but a few who were too annoyed to answer chose the V-880.

Have fun watching your meters.

Originally posted by maolen
hi guys,

if i am able to purchase dvb318 and momitsu (880dx or 880n) all at the same price, what will you guys recommend if my main pupose is to use component. I may use DVI in future but that will be 1 to 2 years from now.

i was initially planning on upgrading my graphics card and just do htpc but am afraid that i might not get the quality similar to these upconverting players and just waste my money.

actually, i can only buy dvb318 for the same price as 880dx. I will be importing it so there will not be any warranty. I will be asking my friend to buy it in USA and have him test it for 2wks then send it to me here in Singapore. I am really excited to see the potential of this using component.

as for momitsu, it's readily available here.

am i making a right decision? I will be using this with my Infocus X1 (component only) on a 100" screen. I plan to use the player for 1 to 2 years until HD-DVD and Blueray comes. When that time comes, I will also buy a new projector with HDMI and/or dvi.

if you're going 1080i over component, then you're good to go.

Anything else, and the results are less than steller.

Make sure you "downgrade" the firmware.

Originally posted by wblynch
What are your audio options in the setup menu?

There may be a clue there.


Here is my audio setup. Let me know if there is anything here that looks wrong or that may be causing audio delay - lip synch problems:

Dolby Digital - Bitstream
DTS - Bitstream
MPEG - PCM
Sample Freq - 96Khz
DRC - OFF
Vocal - OFF

I just picked one up from Amazon.
I hope all my hopes are fulfilled.
I will be using it thru 1080i

Originally posted by lirong
Here is my audio setup. Let me know if there is anything here that looks wrong or that may be causing audio delay - lip synch problems:

Dolby Digital - Bitstream
DTS - Bitstream
MPEG - PCM
Sample Freq - 96Khz
DRC - OFF
Vocal - OFF
I believe my new Sony RP CRT would only handle a Sample Freq of 48Khz. Did you check you TV specs?

Well doesnt the Sample Freq have to do with the receiver its running through, not the TV?

I just bought the DVB318 and am having problems getting it set up to work with my Mitsubishi WS-48315 via DVI. Everytime I turn on the DVD player when DVI is connected it freezes at "Hello" and i need to unplug it. I was able to start it up while DVI cable not plugged in, and once movie was going, plug cable in and it worked fine. turned everything off and back on and froze again. My player has October 2004 build. would going back to old firmware impact anything? when i tried my Dish 811 via DVI it worked fine. i could keep that on DVI, and go back to old firmware and use component. Any thoughts on what to try, and could it be the TV?

Originally posted by lirong
Well doesnt the Sample Freq have to do with the receiver its running through, not the TV? Oops, I meant my cheapo Pioneer receiver. Never mind.

Originally posted by Slipper1
I just bought the DVB318 and am having problems getting it set up to work with my Mitsubishi WS-48315 via DVI. Everytime I turn on the DVD player when DVI is connected it freezes at "Hello" and i need to unplug it. I was able to start it up while DVI cable not plugged in, and once movie was going, plug cable in and it worked fine. turned everything off and back on and froze again. My player has October 2004 build. would going back to old firmware impact anything? when i tried my Dish 811 via DVI it worked fine. i could keep that on DVI, and go back to old firmware and use component. Any thoughts on what to try, and could it be the TV?

If you want the 318's upconversion capability, you have to use the old firmware and component connection. According to this thread, that's the configuration that provides the best PQ w/ the 318, anyway.

This thread has a number of posts like yours - the "handshake" between certain monitors and the 318 fails, and the DVD freezes when using DVI.

Originally posted by Slipper1
I just bought the DVB318 and am having problems getting it set up to work with my Mitsubishi WS-48315 via DVI. Everytime I turn on the DVD player when DVI is connected it freezes at "Hello" and i need to unplug it. I was able to start it up while DVI cable not plugged in, and once movie was going, plug cable in and it worked fine. turned everything off and back on and froze again. My player has October 2004 build. would going back to old firmware impact anything? when i tried my Dish 811 via DVI it worked fine. i could keep that on DVI, and go back to old firmware and use component. Any thoughts on what to try, and could it be the TV?

Hi, one suggestion, and one observation:
1) Do you have cables plugged into the component outputs of the DVB318 AND the DVI output, when the problem happens? There have been a number of previous posts flagging this as a problem: only one of these outputs can be cabled.
2) If you use the old firmware, then you'll want to use the component outputs, not DVI. If that's a solution for you in terms of connections, then you'll likely be happy with the output quality (especially at 1080i, according to numerous posters).
Good luck! Mark

What have people's experiences been with the DVB318 outputting 720p by DVI to a DLP set? I am currently using this DVD player with a 32" Sony HD CRT, but I recently purchased a Samsung DLP set. I've heard that the 720p output on this player is not that great. I'm wondering whether it is worth upgrading to the Denon 2910. I'd really like to get an HDMI DVD player, so I can use DVI for my cable STB. I guess I'll just have to wait and judge the quality for myself after my DLP is delivered. I was just curious to hear the impressions of other DLP owners.

what about the Sony ns975? Should cost you about half of what the 2900 would set you back.

After doing some more testing with other video sources on my TV, I'm 90% confident that the 318 is causing a delay where video lags behind audio.

This happens at any resolution, and over component and DVI. My original firmware was June'04 and have since updated it to the DVI firmware with the same results.

Originally posted by vpn75
What have people's experiences been with the DVB318 outputting 720p by DVI to a DLP set? I am currently using this DVD player with a 32" Sony HD CRT, but I recently purchased a Samsung DLP set. I've heard that the 720p output on this player is not that great. I'm wondering whether it is worth upgrading to the Denon 2910. I'd really like to get an HDMI DVD player, so I can use DVI for my cable STB. I guess I'll just have to wait and judge the quality for myself after my DLP is delivered. I was just curious to hear the impressions of other DLP owners.

Connected to a Toshiba 46HM84 DLP, I found the PQ to be unacceptable. Even with the DVI firmware installed there was quite a bit of color smearing at 720p. At 1080i, the quality improved but only marginally. The best performance from this player is with the component video outputs set to 1080i.

I picked up this unit last wek and it has an Oct build. Before downloading prior "component upconvert allowable" software, I decided to try it on DVI with my CRT RPHDTV.

PQ is excellent for my set. It's a keeper. Didn't see difference on component that many mentioned.

Should I not even spend the money to get a dvi to hdmi adaptor to go into my Panasonic AE700 due to the "handshaking" problem? I was thinking my projector was coming with a dvi "IN", so that is why I ordered this DVD model. Now I'm using component video, my model was made Oct. 2004 so I don't think it upconverts the signal.

Also, I'm seeing intermittent horizontal lines scrolling up my screen. It *might* be a ground loop issue, but I don't think so. I tried other outlets through my house, with all my gear plugged into the same powerstrip and I still get these lines (1 every 60 seconds or so ... give or take).

I hoped that DVI could be used, but am I not going to have success with an adaptor to HDMI

Hi all,
I have an DVB 318 with HD component output firmware installed. The video is great. However, intermittently, the TV would show no video, and I have to unplug and reinstall the cables then the picture returns. Occasionally, the video is washed out, then disappeared a few seconds later. Besides the component cable comes with the DVD player, I have tried another set of 6' Monster cable. But nothing seems to change. I may have two sets of bad cable or just a media problem? any input will be appreciated.

Thanks,