Last night I went to my local 'High End' A/V salon and spent some considerable time with the XBR960. Let me just say, that while i've seen this TV many times at the local 'super stores' , if you've never had the opportunity to see what this set can do under the proper lighting with a correct calibration (even if it's just a good user menu tweek) you are really missing something special! The reference quality DVDs that I'd brought along for audition were so good on this set that they looked 95% as good as the sat. HD feed also running to the TV. I personally would not have givin this set a second look if all I'd ever seen was the PQ that the local super store environment can muster. Especially sitting along side the overly bright and vivid flat panel displays that initially catch your attention. But an interesting thing happens when you get the 960 in a realistic HT room environment. Under low light you will be taking the Sony OFF 'vivid' mode because it will seem to bright and eye fatiguing. While, at the BB stores you will think it looks to dull even with the 'vivid' on. Now just think for a moment .... how much you are going to have to back down those 'bright & vivid' flat displays in the store .... just to make them watchable in your HT room without getting a headache! The Sony 'excels' in the low light situations and can create a magic that I feel can only still be achieved thru CRT. This set may not 'wow' you as much as other displays at first .... but the more you watch it, the more you realize it is just doing everything right and not drawing overly attention to any one aspect of the picture.

Like you .... I was sitting on the fence between the same exact two display choices, and don't get me wrong , they are both good choices .... but after last nights session, it's going to be the XBR for me!!

Excellent points. I recommend everyone bring along a copy of Master and Commander (along with whatever other DVDs they use for reference). Play it on the 960, in as good an environment as you can find, then play it on any other technology. Look at the details in the shadows in the first scene, when the guy is walking through the underbelly of the ship at night, with only a lantern in his hand. Then, skip to the first "fog" scene. You can pick any of a dozen scenes in this movie that will show you night and day differences in the technologies. The fog in particular looks like crap on most sets. Not so on the XBR960.

Why is it that the tvs aren't calibrated to preffered settings out of the box? we're paying for a tv to do what it's suppose to do from the get go are we not?

Why is it that the tvs aren't calibrated to preffered settings out of the box? we're paying for a tv to do what it's suppose to do from the get go are we not?

Marketing.

Each mfg is in a race to see who's set can look best on the showroom floor, right next to all the other sets. In order to do that, they have to screw up the picture to very unnatural settings in order for it to stand out. It's why most sets come preset to "vivid" mode.

Thanks everyone for letting me know I wasn't the only one who had what best can be described as a "Black Hole" experience with no picture and audio. Am sure you all had the same, upsetting (that's saying it mildly) feeling when it first happened too. Lucky I had the day off today when this occurred - I would not even venture a guess what my state of mind would have been had the Mrs. called me at work to say the set was broken LOL!

Because the 960 is such an elaborate HDTV it is subject to these occurrances so if it happened to Ralph Krandem he would have said "it pays to buy the best", but he is probably still waiting for 3D TV. LOL.

Thanks again.., this is a GREAT forum to be part of!

Please write in and convince me to not buy a 42 inch Plasma and buy the XBR960???

Well, I wouldn't want to convince you of anything, as IMHO, it comes down to personal preferences. My best suggestion would be to spend some time watching both types, do research in this forum to chart pros and cons and make a final decision based on what factors are most important to you.

That being said, I was in a similar position last month and went for the 960. While I was excited about the set right away, I can't tell you how happy I am with it now that I have a cable install/stb and have played with the settings (thatnks to people in this forum sharing their experiences and prefs). I watched the Yanks Os game last night and was just floored. The perfomance on movies new (e.g., Star Wars Attack of the Clones) and old[er] (e.g., Raiders of the Lost Ark) is fantastic. I really don't think I have seen these films in this type of quality since theye were in the theaters. The clarity and digi-effects in the scene on Camino (sp?) are superb.

Regarding weight and size... they are legitimate concerns! I paid for delivery and haven't moved the set since (though the bottom of the sony stand must have that slider material, bc it glides on carpet for cable adjustment. Bottom line is that I am an apartment dweller and will likely move at least once with this set. It's big, heavy and bulky... but worth it.

Geometry issues happen as I understand it, but can be resoved via a good ISF calibration. I really don't see anything on mine unless I am watching 4:3 content.

Size (34" limitation) seems to be a concern for some, but not me, as I was coming from a 27" 4:3 set. I can see how some find larger screen size appealing, but I wasn't prepared to make the neccessary sacrifices (quality or financial) to get it. 34" is fine for me and my reciner sits about 10' away.

So based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the set. But take your time and do your homework... you are the one that needs to be happy with the purchase. ;)

Well, I wouldn't want to convince you of anything, as IMHO, it comes down to personal preferences. My best suggestion would be to spend some time watching both types, do research in this forum to chart pros and cons and make a final decision based on what factors are most important to you.

That being said, I was in a similar position last month and went for the 960. While I was excited about the set right away, I can't tell you how happy I am with it now that I have a cable install/stb and have played with the settings (thatnks to people in this forum sharing their experiences and prefs). I watched the Yanks Os game last night and was just floored. The perfomance on movies new (e.g., Star Wars Attack of the Clones) and old[er] (e.g., Raiders of the Lost Ark) is fantastic. I really don't think I have seen these films in this type of quality since theye were in the theaters. The clarity and digi-effects in the scene on Camino (sp?) are superb.

Regarding weight and size... they are legitimate concerns! I paid for delivery and haven't moved the set since (though the bottom of the sony stand must have that slider material, bc it glides on carpet for cable adjustment. Bottom line is that I am an apartment dweller and will likely move at least once with this set. It's big, heavy and bulky... but worth it.

Geometry issues happen as I understand it, but can be resoved via a good ISF calibration. I really don't see anything on mine unless I am watching 4:3 content.

Size (34" limitation) seems to be a concern for some, but not me, as I was coming from a 27" 4:3 set. I can see how some find larger screen size appealing, but I wasn't prepared to make the neccessary sacrifices (quality or financial) to get it. 34" is fine for me and my reciner sits about 10' away.

So based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the set. But take your time and do your homework... you are the one that needs to be happy with the purchase. ;)


Well said. In addition to this, the truths being discussed in this thread should also be considered: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=582839

If it only weighed 125 lbs and was 37"...................it would be in at least one of my rooms.........sigh

Hi all! Well, thanks to the many, many impressions in this thread I purchased the KD-34XBR960 from Best Buy and had it delivered here this week. However I have yet to take it out of the box for several reasons. On the day the television was delivered, I was not personally home to receive it. I arranged to have my cousin there to meet the delivery guys while I was at work. All seemed well until I got home and saw that the tape on one side of the box was broken and one flap ajar. I immediately called my cousin and he described this scenario:

The TV was brought up to the door on a hand truck with the XBR box secured sideways (vertically). The box also had one top flap hanging open. When asked why, the delivery guy said that that the tape "just popped open" while being forklifted onto the truck (or off the shelf to the truck or something) and that there was nothing to worry about.

After opening the box fully, I saw that the styrofoam on one side of the TV set was broken. I also noticed a "Do not transport on its side" warning diagram and realized he had it that way on the hand truck. I'm actually a little mad that my cousin accepted it this way. Guess if you want something done right...

I am assuming that this is something that should be exchanged? How has the packaging arrived on all of your sets? What is the danger to having the box on its side during the delivery? Basically I just want to know if I should borrow a friend's truck and drive this sucker out there tonight for a new one. Any suggestions would be great!

Argh, back to work...

I am assuming that this is something that should be exchanged? How has the packaging arrived on all of your sets? What is the danger to having the box on its side during the delivery? Basically I just want to know if I should borrow a friend's truck and drive this sucker out there tonight for a new one. Any suggestions would be great!

Argh, back to work...

I'd have to double check (I still have the box), but I'm pretty sure mine had cardboard staples and tape on the top.

The delivery guys should have set the tv up for you...that's included in most delivery charges. Mine was put into my entertainment center, plugged in, and connected to my HD receiver. They turned it on to verify it worked before leaving. Nothing fancy, just basic "does it show a picture?"

If you're not comfortable with the condition of the box, call the company and tell them you'd like them to bring another one. You shouldn't, under any circumstances, have to lug it back yourself.

I had purchased a Toshiba 34" widescreen from BestBuy, and tried it out for 3 weeks. It was far less than ideal, so I returned it. I took my receipt back to BestBuy, and upgraded to the Sony 34XBR960. They arranged for delivery of the Sony, and *pickup* of the Toshiba. I never had to touch a thing. In fact, I wasn't even charged another delivery charge when I exchanged...

Hi guys,

loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)

I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:

1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)

2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.

The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.

I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:

1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?

2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?

3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?

Thanks in advance

1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?

2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?

3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?

Thanks in advance

First of all, for the size of your room and viewing distance, the 34XBR960 is perfect. Now, on to your concerns:

1) It's really much more than a horizontally stretched 27". A 27" 4:3 set, when viewing widescreen (letterboxed) content, will have an actual viewing size of about 24-25". A 34" 16:9 set, when viewing widescreen content, will have roughly a 34" viewing area (depends on the actual aspect ratio.) So, your DVD's will be *much* bigger. When viewing SD content, you can either view it in "full" mode, which stretches it to 16:9 (I prefer this, but some people don't like it...you'll have to decide for yourself), or you can view it in it's native 4:3 format. In the latter case, it'll be either the same, or slightly LARGER than your 27" set. I've measured it on my actual set, and it's usually between 27 and 28".

2) The XBR960 will display your 720p input at 1080i. You'd be very hard pressed to tell the difference. It'll look fantastic.

3) Depends on what furniture you have. I got a nice entertainment center at Best Buy for $200 that fits it perfectly.

Thanks for the quick reply.

My first post was made while at work; after coming home and getting out the measuring tape it turns out that my viewing distance is actually a little over 9 ft. Does this affect your recommendation?

I realize that widescreen content will get a huge boost...but I still have a hangup about SD programming being basically the same size as now...just stretched in the horizontal.

Regarding the conversion to 1080i, I suppose my biggest question (and the one I can't seem to see a consensus on) is how the conversion is done: is 720p content down-res'd to some intermediate resolution before being upconverted to 1080i? I guess as long as it looks ok, it shouldn't matter, but I would hate to think of losing picture data.

My first post was made while at work; after coming home and getting out the measuring tape it turns out that my viewing distance is actually a little over 9 ft. Does this affect your recommendation?

My *personal* max for the 34" Sony would be 9.5ft. Some on this board have 10ft viewing distance and are perfectly happy. A little over 9 should be fine. I'm at 8ft and it seems perfect...I can't imagine another foot would make *that* much difference. (Alhtough, if you could cheat your chouch a little closer... :) )

Thanks for the reply, Gecko! I feel a little jipped now after hearing about your experience. I think I may just set the thing up and see how it runs. If there is anything wrong I'll make sure that they pick it up and handle the exchange. Are there any telltale signs that I should look for as a result of a possible rough delivery (as opposed to the benign "tape popped open" story they were telling)? I'm very newbish when it comes to these things and I'm not exactly sure what to expect when I first turn the thing on (as far as how things should look).

Hi guys,

loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)

I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:

1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)

2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.

The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.

I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:

1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?

2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?

3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?

Thanks in advance

Hi JA,

I had the same reservations about how much more picture size a 34" widescreen would provide compared to tthe letterbox of my 32" 4x3. On paper, it did not seem like much, but when it was delivered it was a huge difference!

Our viewing distance is about 7-1/2 feet which is perfect for us. You can even be closer and will not note any distoration. Due to it's bulky size, the front of the set will be further into the room than standard TVs, so if the back is placed an extra six nches off the wall it can reduce your nine foot viewing distance without diminishing the decor of the room.

It is very heavy and many stands might bulk from the weight. We use the custom made stand and it really blends in nicely with the set - my wife liked it too! The stand itself is not too difficult to put together and if you decide to purchase it I suggest having the stand delivered before the 960 so the set can be placed on it by the delivery men (there are holes which the legs of the set slide into and a strap on the back to secure it to the stand - it also makes it easier for sliding the set out when needing to get to the back).

I do not know how the picture quality will be on video games, however, I can attest that VHS and standard broadcast pictures come in better (it might be better to view non-HD cable through an input other than HDMI). When my brother was over he was concerned about the top and bottom parts of his video games being cut off. He saw that the picture was cropped perfectly and in stretch mode the vertical height could be adjusted and nothing cut off.

Hope this helps with your decision,
Joe

Hey everyone,

So nearly a month has gone by since my last update on the trailing issue, and I am in need of assistance/advice and any thoughts you may have.

For those familiar with the issue, skip this paragraph. For those who have not heard of it, I'll get you up to speed quickly on what the problem is. On any video input with any signal, there appears to be trails behind moving objects on the screen. The easiest spots to see this issue in is dark background, light foreground, fast motion, high-contrast scenes. Examples would be a hand/arm moving quickly across the screen, a panning shot with lights in it, etc. Another example is pretty much any moderately paced scrolling credits. While these scenes are the easiest to identify the issue in, they can be seen in less extreme circumstances and the effect is a blurring of the image in motion. When there are extremely slow or static images on the screen, the set is phenomenal. The only problem the TV is exhibiting is this trailing/ghosting issue.

Now for a bit of history...

This television initially had a CableCard problem, so the q-box was replaced (basically the box that has all the inputs and outputs plus the cablecard slot). That repair was not related to the trailing/ghosting issue.

I then began the process of dealing with the trailing issue in May. The service center ordered and installed a B/Y board (not sure if that's the right name, but basically it is a line doubler). The problem did not go away.

Approximately a month ago I contacted the servicer again to come out and look at the television again. He saw the problem, commented "wow, it's worse than I thought" and left to consult with Sony. More than a week later (after several back and forths), they called me and said that "Sony has determined your television is defective and this is not a repairable issue. You need to call Sony service to get your television replaced." They gave me the phone number and I did as I was told...

I called Sony, and they claimed I needed an event ID. The servicer didn't give me one. We tried looking it up via serial number. No luck. Then phone number. No luck. Then servicer. No luck. After 30 minutes, they found my television, but only had documentation on the q-box replacement. I outlined the whole situation to them, they created a new event ID, and I was told I would receive a call-back within 24-48 hours.

The next day I got an e-mail that said 24-48 hours again, pushing it back a day. When the 48 hours elapsed, still no call back. To save you the blow-by-blow of the next three weeks, let me summarize:
- I was promised at least 12 different callbacks throughout this process, most of which with the 24-48 hour stipulation. Not even once did I actually receive a callback. Not even a late callback. I never received a promised call back.
- They claimed the servicer would not answer their phones for over two weeks.
- They then claimed the servicer would not talk to them about my television.
- They then claimed there was no record of the findings of the servicer. Rinse and repeat above steps.
- All of this time I was calling to talk to the servicer, who claimed they can see all of their notes attached to my television and event id in Sony's system. In addition, they *never received a call from Sony*.
- Finally, last week, the CS agent (level 2) finally agreed to try calling the servicer herself. She then claimed that the servicer said there was no problem with my television, and that they hadn't even seen the problem. Of course, a quick call to the servicer reveals another side of the story... Sony was the one who flip-floped. They just told them what they saw on the television.
- I spoke to a CS supervisor, and was stonewalled.

So at that point, over the course of three weeks, over 8 hours on hold, no callbacks, etc. etc., Sony flip-flopped from "This TV is defective" to "This TV is operating normally." My only recourse now was through the retailer who sold it to me...

I went into the retailer, explained the situation, explained to them that I did not see it in their floor model and they agreed to replace the television with their warranty company (thank goodness for extended warranty plans).

The television was delivered yesterday, but they refused to give me the manual. I don't know the serial number and manufactured date until I pull the unit back out from the wall. I turned it on, set all the normal setting you change (Pro and Monitor) and let it sit on Discovery HD for a couple hours to get the set warmed up. Then came the moment of truth: toss in a reference DVD I was using to test the issue and....

Same problem! GRRRRR!

So now my questions are as follows:
1) This is a popular television among calibrators. If this is "normal" for this set, I'd think it would not be popular among them. They are likely more visually picky than I am. Can anyone speak to this?
2) I've only seen *one* note other than my own of this issue in the nearly 70 pages of posts here in this thread. Has anyone else seen it? (refer to the scene examples earlier in this post for reference material ideas -- I have used Star Wars, Battlestar Gallactica, 24, The West Wing, and more...)
3) What are my options now?

This has been my worst customer experience ever, and while I love this television, I am having major second thoughts.

I appreciate any and all advice or thoughts all of you could provide.

Thanks and best regards,
Brad

Brad and I are both battling this issue. So to update my side of the saga! :o

A little background: My XBR960 has been experiencing a "phosphor decay" problem. For example, I'm watching the credits of a movie ending, as the credits move up on the screen, I can see the "ghost" of the wording as it moves up the screen, this lasts for about 0.25 to 1/3 of a second. But the spec for this should be in the ms range, or less. Anyway back to future, err, the story.

After describing my problem to a level 2 Sony Tech, they faxed over a work request to my "Sony authorized service facility" where I live. The guy came (7/6/05) and replaced the B-Y board, which handles some of the video-processing
for the set. The set still showed this ghosting problem (on all inputs, HD, SD, everything!)

Anyway fast-forward to 9/9/05. (Busy, on vacation, work, women, etc.) Another tech (friendly, experienced, smart, my age) from my "Sony authorized service facility" comes over to verify the problem. It took him a little while, but once I pointed out what was happening he saw it very easily too. Afterward, he wrote down on the service call receipt, "Verified problem with unit. Believe CRT is problem. Will call Sony and call customer...." He called me back a few days later after talking to his special Sony Tech help line. After carefully describing the problem, the Sony Tech believed it also was the CRT, but to be absolutely sure, he authorized another replacement board.

Fast forward to 9/23/05. My tech comes over and replaces the M-Z board which handles video processing as well. Well, you guessed right, no luck (just as I thought). He wrote down on this service receipt, "Installed part did not solve problem. Need to call Sony and call customer..." My guy told me that next thing Sony might try to have him do, would be to change the Q-Box. Remember Brad Smith had his Q-Box changed for cable-card issues, and it didn't affect the ghosting one bit. If Sony decides to go down that route, it's not going to change anything except waste another week in the football season and really cement that the CRT is defective. I honestly don't care if Sony in the end decides to "repair or replace the Product," (according to the limited warranty) as long as everything works good, afterward. So right now, I'm waiting for my tech to get back to me after talking to Sony on a path-forward. Will update the thread as soon as I know.

A few rules that everyone should follow. Always be nice to your Sony Techs on the phone, always be nice to your service facility techs too. They really appreciate it, it also doesn't hurt if you have some outside interests to talk about with your tech, as I've found out. Document everything!!!!! Names, event ID #s, save receipts, have the tech write down what he thinks, because if it isn't documented, then it didn't happen. This all solves a lot of potential problems down the road. Remember, "it's easier to catch flies with honey than with vinegar."

your XBR960 comrade in arms,


PS. My tv was experiencing overscan issues, the tech changed it the service menu, but in doing that I think he messed up the focus on the left side. Didn't notice until after he left. Instead of a white line in a static image for example I'm seeing a green line, which is surrounded by a red line on one side and blue line on the other. (Not very noticeable, and I'm not going to worry about it right now, this is just a service tweak to reposition the guns I think.) Except the ghosting, the screen is beautiful, watching HD is spectacular, can't wait to have it calibrated! The line to borrow Q's XBR960 starts behind me!!!!! :D

Hi Brad and Liquidneba,

Just wanted to say I'm sorry the problems with your sets have yet to be resolved by technicians. The only thought I have (and it's remote at best) is that the retailers are dealing with returned merchandise. Are the stores reputable? I am sure you both have already considered this as a possibility.

Let us know how things turn out.

All the best,
Joe

Hi Brad and Liquidneba,

Just wanted to say I'm sorry the problems with your sets have yet to be resolved by technicians. The only thought I have (and it's remote at best) is that the retailers are dealing with returned merchandise. Are the stores reputable? I am sure you both have already considered this as a possibility.

Let us know how things turn out.

All the best,
Joe


Thanks Joe! Brad told me that he got it at a local retailer. My TV was originally bought brand new from Circuit City.

Brad,
has anyone checked the voltage at your house? Is it feeding 120V or less?

I have not. I shall see what I can do. Would that affect it if it was less?

Sorry to hear of your experiences liquid and Brad. Appreciate the advice to document, document, document. Hopefully it's a moot point for me (knock on wood). I'm suprised after multiple tech visits that they don't consider swapping the set. I wonder if this raises the value of a store warranty (like CC or BB)? Sounds like Sony really puts you through the mill before pulling the trigger on a set swap.

Gecko85,

You stated: "It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960." Why is that? I always thought CRT phosphors were susceptible to burn in.

Burn in is a concern of mine since so many programs are 4:3 and I prefer black pillar box bars to a stretched image. Hence there will be a lot of time where the CRT sides are not exposed to moving images.

Mike

Gecko85,

You stated: "It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960." Why is that? I always thought CRT phosphors were susceptible to burn in.

Burn in is a concern of mine since so many programs are 4:3 and I prefer black pillar box bars to a stretched image. Hence there will be a lot of time where the CRT sides are not exposed to moving images.

Mike

It's not impossible to get burn-in, but believe me, to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.

Example: Throw the contrast and brightness to the max, put the TV in 4:3 pilar box mode, and put in on a station with just fuzzies and leave it like that for days on end and you MIGHT get some burn-in.

Sorry to hear of your experiences liquid and Brad. Appreciate the advice to document, document, document. Hopefully it's a moot point for me (knock on wood). I'm suprised after multiple tech visits that they don't consider swapping the set. I wonder if this raises the value of a store warranty (like CC or BB)? Sounds like Sony really puts you through the mill before pulling the trigger on a set swap.


It's all up to Sony Customer Service. According to my tech, Sony tries three repair attempts, for a particular problem then they'll swap. Btw. I got off the phone with my local authorized Sony tech. He spoke again to Sony Tech, they told him to switch the W-Y board after trying the B-Y, and M-Z boards, which is the "inner" board on the neck of the CRT. So if this board doesn't do the trick, then for me it would constitute the third repair attempt on the set. If that turns out to be the case, I'll be calling Sony Customer Service, for a new set. Btw. CC has a similar policy, three repair attempts. I personally don't blame Sony... they are trying to fix the problem. Obviously they want to keep their costs down from replacing a set, if its just a board problem. Partly it's my own fault for dragging it out too. I really hope it works (this time, finally). Then I'll get my set ISFed, and I'll be a happy clam, once more!

It's not impossible to get burn-in, but believe me, to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.

Example: Throw the contrast and brightness to the max, put the TV in 4:3 pilar box mode, and put in on a station with just fuzzies and leave it like that for days on end and you MIGHT get some burn-in.

Exactly. Perhaps I should have said: "Under normal viewing conditions, it's nearly impossible to get burn in..." (Normal viewing conditions being the key.)

[QUOTE=Q of BanditZ]to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.

Hi Q,

Let's take a roll call and see how many of us fit that description! LOL. :p

Does anyone know how to reset the cablecard on the 960? My Qualia has a reset option in the menu but the 960 does not. Any help would be appreciated!!

Does anyone know how to reset the cablecard on the 960? My Qualia has a reset option in the menu but the 960 does not. Any help would be appreciated!!

Go into the menu and select Advanced Video then select Cablecard then select Reset

Go into the menu and select Advanced Video then select Cablecard then select Reset

My cablecard is under the Application part of the menu -- not under the Advanced Video. My 960 has no reset box under the "Show" box when you access the cablecard menu, like my Qualia has. Sony tech support just told me there is no way to reset the cablecard in the 960, unless you reset the whole TV. I am reluctant to reset the 960 back to the factory defaults since I had my set calibrated last spring.

My cablecard is under the Application part of the menu -- not under the Advanced Video. My 960 has no reset box under the "Show" box when you access the cablecard menu, like my Qualia has. Sony tech support just told me there is no way to reset the cablecard in the 960, unless you reset the whole TV. I am reluctant to reset the 960 back to the factory defaults since I had my set calibrated last spring.

Definitely different than mine.

Talk to the person that calibrated your TV and ask if the changes will go back to the factory settings if the TV is reset.

I think my 960 may have the trailing issue. I've had it for almost a year now and don't recall noticing it previously, but yesterday I was watching the credits scroll on Curb Your Enthusiasm and boom I see the trailing. I also noticed it a bit while rewatching the season premier ep of Lost a couple of days ago - near the end of the ep Jack is looking around in the dark with a flashlight and it seemed to trail.

Maybe the trailing was always there and it's like digital compression artifacts - you don't notice it at first, but once you do notice it you can't stop noticing it.

I think my 960 may have the trailing issue. I've had it for almost a year now and don't recall noticing it previously, but yesterday I was watching the credits scroll on Curb Your Enthusiasm and boom I see the trailing. I also noticed it a bit while rewatching the season premier ep of Lost a couple of days ago - near the end of the ep Jack is looking around in the dark with a flashlight and it seemed to trail.

Maybe the trailing was always there and it's like digital compression artifacts - you don't notice it at first, but once you do notice it you can't stop noticing it.

Since you are under the warranty, it won't hurt to have a technician come and check it out to ease your mind.

Is it only an occasional case of trailing? If so, it may not be the 960. Often HD programs aren't mastered properly which causes trailing and other artifacts. For example, we've experienced digital breakup on HBO during episodes of The Sopranos which did not occur on the previous or following program. Saturday baseball broadcasts on FOX are not always crystal clear except for super-imposed printing. We've seen pictures freeze on Starz and Encore while the audio continued.

Try watching credits on a DVD you are familiar with - if it doesn't happen then, it's a good chance your set is ok.

How are "old" theater released movies broadcast on HDTV ?

I realize that shows like Letterman and sporting events can be "saved on tape" or "live" and go out as a high definition signal. Here the original media would have been high definition quality I guess.

However, what about "old" theater movies? Are they broadcast from a "regular 480i" DVD disk media from some kind of advanced DVD player ?

Some movies that are only available on DVD in the [2.35 : 1] format appear as (16:9) full screen from the networks. But, they do not appear to have any better PQ than my DVD of the movie on my HDTV.

Thanks in advance for any information.

[QUOTE=AndyorKen]How are "old" theater released movies broadcast on HDTV ?

However, what about "old" theater movies? Are they broadcast from a "regula 480i" DVD disk media from some kind of advanced DVD player ?

QUOTE]

35 mm film has incredibly high resolution--much superior to HDTV. And of course many prime-time TV programs have been shot on film for decades. So there is a huge library of "HD ready" content available. These films merely need to be transferred to HD and recorded on HD videotape recorders or video servers to make them available as HD content.

On the other hand, programs originally shot on SD with electronic cameras (sports, some sitcoms, reality shows) will never be able to be upconverted to HD because the native resolution isn't there.

Mark

If this has been answered, I apologize. I searched, but found nothing.

My old low-def Sony TV had a button on the remote that allowed you to easily turn captions on and off.

I can find no similar feature on my 34XBR960. Sometimes I can't make out a line, and I want to turn captions on briefly to find out what was said, but it is a long, menu diving process to turn them on, then you have to do it again to turn them off.

Any ideas?

I was just trying to figure that out on my new XBR960 last night -- and if there is a solution, I couldn't find it. As with you, I'm hoping a more experienced owner might proffer a tip ...

Thanks Mark - Your response got me to thinking - Telecine is how they do it !

As to the PQ, there are so many variables invovled unless you know exactly how and what is being broadcast it is really a mute point.

Thanks again.

Ken

I don't think there is a quicker way to do the captions. Also be aware that with HDTV the caption decoding takes place where the HD signal is decoded, which isn't necessarily the tv set if you're using a DVR or other external box. I wanted to see the captions last night on CSI: NY and had to enable them on my cable DVR instead of the tv.

My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.

My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?

Quick question regarding the video inputs. I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable, however there is an input that I can't seem to skip. I believe it is the currently unused coax input that I was getting cable on (before CV could come out and install the box.

So now when I toggle the TV/Video button I go from Cable Box (Input 7/HDMI) to DVD (Input 5/component) to static, and then over again. It's awesome having only 3 selections, but I'm wondering if it's possible to "skip" the unused coax input even though it isn't listed in the menu mentioned above.

My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.

My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?

The guy at the Sony Store I visited said their demo 960 had the same issue and they were using Sony shielded speakers as well. So... my guess would be that this is the cause.

Is moving them farther an option? I currently keep each (unsheilded) speaker about 5 feet from the set edge. Also just wanted to confirm that you mean inches (sorry... big Spinal Tap fan here :p ).

The guy at the Sony Store I visited said their demo 960 had the same issue and they were using Sony shielded speakers as well. So... my guess would be that this is the cause.

Is moving them farther an option? I currently keep each (unsheilded) speaker about 5 feet from the set edge. Also just wanted to confirm that you mean inches (sorry... big Spinal Tap fan here :p ).

Not really I'm up against a wall on the left front and a fireplace on the right front. I can probably go an 1" more.

Yes I did mean inches. :)

Quick question regarding the video inputs. I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable, however there is an input that I can't seem to skip. I believe it is the currently unused coax input that I was getting cable on (before CV could come out and install the box.

So now when I toggle the TV/Video button I go from Cable Box (Input 7/HDMI) to DVD (Input 5/component) to static, and then over again. It's awesome having only 3 selections, but I'm wondering if it's possible to "skip" the unused coax input even though it isn't listed in the menu mentioned above.

If you're using a learning remote, you can program in the discreet input codes. (I your remote doesn't accept advanced codes, then you can pick up an inexpensive remote that does, then use it to "teach" your other remote. I use an old Radio Shack 1994 remote....check hifi-remote.com, and the remotes section of AVS for suggestions.) Here's a link to the advanced codes for Sony televisions: http://www.hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin2/ueic.cgi?TV_0000

The only code I haven't been able to find is a code for Video 7. The codes listed only go up through Video 6. Anyone know of the code for Video 7?

Once you've programmed in the codes, you can press whatever button you teach for each input, and it'll switch directly to that input...no need to cycle through them.

I mentioned in a previous post within this thread that, while everything is great, the picture slightly bowed in the upper left corner of my TV (hardly noticeable, but it's there).

Well, after rearranging the room and moving the TV, the bowing went away! I didn't unplug the TV while I moved it...I just rotated the stand and shoved it back to another wall. The position and location (with respect to the TV) of external electronic components never changed. Anyone know why the position of the TV would affect geometry anomalies?? Or am I just hallucinating???

Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.

My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.

I mentioned in a previous post within this thread that, while everything is great, the picture slightly bowed in the upper left corner of my TV (hardly noticeable, but it's there).

Well, after rearranging the room and moving the TV, the bowing went away! I didn't unplug the TV while I moved it...I just rotated the stand and shoved it back to another wall. The position and location (with respect to the TV) of external electronic components never changed. Anyone know why the position of the TV would affect geometry anomalies?? Or am I just hallucinating???

I've read previously that supposedly the TVs are dialed in at the factory while facing DUE WEST. So putting the set facing west or east may be better than north or south. But it won't make a huge difference usually.

Thanks for the info. It's facing south now, btw, it was facing east prior to me rotating it. Well, whatever happened, I'm glad I moved it :D.

I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable I didn't realize this could be done -- I've looked through the menus and must be missing where the video inputs can be named and/or skipped.

My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.

My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?

Hi John,

I also saw on your follow-up post that the most you can have is a ten inch separation from your speaker to the 960. While I am not an audio expert I do have three thoughts.

1) Even for shielded speakers this could be too close if they are floor mounted with a heavy magnet. Can the speakers be moved further back and the set a little further forward? This can add an extra few inches which should do the trick. Subwoofers must also be at least two feet away.

2) Is this noticable during TV viewing? If only on DVD, position the player further away from the speaker since magnetism might interfere with the player's video output.
3) Do you have computer equipment right by the set? While the 960 can be used as a PC monitor I had to slightly reposition my WebTV internet box used for a different set because it caused slight discoloration. BTW, the bookshelf speakers for that set are maybe 18 inches away but I have no color distortion problems.

Again, any way to muscle in a few extra inches would probably eliminate the distortion you have. If the problem persists, a sony technician can easily clear the discoloration caused by the magnetic field.

Hope these suggestions help.

- Joe

I didn't realize this could be done -- I've looked through the menus and must be missing where the video inputs can be named and/or skipped.

Menu>Setup(2nd from bottom)>Label Video Inputs>Program

Menu>Setup(2nd from bottom)>Label Video Inputs>ProgramWell that seems obvious. Yesterday must have been my "not the sharpest tool in the drawer" day ...

Hi guys,

loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)

I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:

1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)

2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.

The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.

I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:

1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?

2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?

3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?

Thanks in advance

Well... I've asked the "how does the 720p conversion work" question several times and never got an answer.

Well I now have the TV and the best thing I can tell you is that when I switch from Fox (720) to CBS or ABC (1080i) I can't tell a difference. Also, the 720p games that came out on xbox 1 were fantastic. So I am having no doubts about buying a xbox360.

Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.

My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.

Welcome to the 960 club. Add one more day to your MONTHS of research and research this thread. There are a number of post with initial setup settings.

Hi John,

I also saw on your follow-up post that the most you can have is a ten inch separation from your speaker to the 960. While I am not an audio expert I do have three thoughts.

1) Even for shielded speakers this could be too close if they are floor mounted with a heavy magnet. Can the speakers be moved further back and the set a little further forward? This can add an extra few inches which should do the trick. Subwoofers must also be at least two feet away.

2) Is this noticable during TV viewing? If only on DVD, position the player further away from the speaker since magnetism might interfere with the player's video output.
3) Do you have computer equipment right by the set? While the 960 can be used as a PC monitor I had to slightly reposition my WebTV internet box used for a different set because it caused slight discoloration. BTW, the bookshelf speakers for that set are maybe 18 inches away but I have no color distortion problems.

Again, any way to muscle in a few extra inches would probably eliminate the distortion you have. If the problem persists, a sony technician can easily clear the discoloration caused by the magnetic field.

Hope these suggestions help.

- Joe

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'll try setting them back an inch or two. The wall to the left is an exterior wall so there will be no muscling it out of the way. :)

The speakers are P-digm studio 60s and they do have a pretty hefty magnet.

The only time I see it is if I stop a DVD during play back and the screen turns blue for a few seconds before going blank.

I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.

The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.

Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?

Mike

Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.

My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.

Professional calibration and Pro mode is popular with the hard core folks.

If you choose not to have professional calibration done for now, I recommend the following settings to give you a good starting point. The following settings give my XBR beautiful pictures in HI DEF and STANDARD DEF, the latter being very important to me for the next few years. I have not seen std def pictures on other tv's (including some very expensive ones) that come close to the quality of my XBR.

Standard (the same settings are different in each mode because of the circuitry)
picture: 34
bright: 42
color: 27
hue: 0
sharp: 31
temp: cool
VM: high (the hard core folks will balk at this but it makes std def look fantastic and does not adversely affect hi def on my XBR; A calibration is another matter with this setting ;)
color axis: default (the skin tones on most stations look better to me. You may prefer monitor -- your choice).

What amazes me about my XBR is that everything looks so good. The contrast is amazing and I can see the details in dark scenes amazingly well. Love it. I actually sold my 50" LCD rear projection to buy the 34" XBR. Qaulity is more important to me than picture size. Your mileage may vary.

Have fun.

I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.

The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.

Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?

Mike

If you get a good hd source, there is no flicker. Sounds like you should go to another store that might have a sales person that knows what they are talking about.

petej88,

Does that mean that some not-so-good HD may exhibit flicker? For example HD via cable, instead of OTA.

Mike

How do I get standard definition channels to "stretch" so that I eliminate the black bars on the sides of the screen? When I used Time Warner Cable's STANDARD cable box, I could eliminate the bars, but since I received their hi-def cable box, the only way to "fill out" the screen is when watching a hi-def channel.

petej88,

Does that mean that some not-so-good HD may exhibit flicker? For example HD via cable, instead of OTA.

Mike

I'm currently using Comcast Cable and have never seen flicker. I've seen pixelation, etc from bad input occasionally. I'm wondering if your sales person was mixing up HI def with 480i input when he was talking about flicker? That's what I think.

I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.

The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.

Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?

Mike

I had the same experience at a Sony Style store in Northern NJ. All sets were hooked up to an HD source except for the CRTs. Worse still it was a loop of some seasme street clip and you couldn't play another DVD to check out quality. It was a shame too, bc you couldn't compare the HD signal on a960 to the plasmas and RP LCDs. I found 6th Ave Electronics and Best Buy (Magnolia) to be the best about letting you switch to HD and/or a DVD you know well.

As for flicker... can't say that I have seen that on 1080i (e.g., YES HD) or 720p (e.g., ESPN HD) sources. Football looked stellar last night and baseball broadcasts were made for HD/16:9... just beautiful. :)

My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.

My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?

John, I had a similar problem. In my case, the purple spot WAS there continuously, but it was hard to see under certain conditions.

Due to space limitations, I decided not to move anything. I was able to eliminate the blur by unplugging the TV for 15 minutes, plugging it back in, and turning it on. The de-gaussing circuitry took care of the problem. (No, I don't know why it didn't fix the problem without going through the unplugging process. The set de-gausses each time it turns on. Regardless, the purple spot disappeared and I'm a happy camper.)

Mark

John, I had a similar problem. In my case, the purple spot WAS there continuously, but it was hard to see under certain conditions.

Due to space limitations, I decided not to move anything. I was able to eliminate the blur by unplugging the TV for 15 minutes, plugging it back in, and turning it on. The de-gaussing circuitry took care of the problem. (No, I don't know why it didn't fix the problem without going through the unplugging process. The set de-gausses each time it turns on. Regardless, the purple spot disappeared and I'm a happy camper.)

Mark

Thanks. I moved a 1/2 inch to the left and back an inch and that seems to have taken care of it.

njt,

Sounds like the same setup at the Sony store I went to. It too was Sesame Street or Muppets on all CRTs.

Stopped at Tweeter yesterday, but no 960 on display. Will check out Fry's later this week.

Mike

Had a bt of a scare last night and am wondering if it was the same experience a few mentioned in pages above. Was watching Monday night football and the screen flashed black. The image then became wavy and purple in tint before the screen turned off (and then the red led started flashing). :eek: Initially suspected a cable problem or power surge (thiough no other devices including lamps showed an effect).

Turned the TV back on, it came up for a second, turned purple/wavy and then shut off and the led started flashing again. :eek: :eek:

Remebered reading something about the red light, resetting, degaussing (sp?) from this thread, searched and let the TV sit unplugged for 2 min. Set came back with a bit of a minute flicker for a min or two but has been fine since. Anyone else have a similar experience?

Had a bt of a scare last night and am wondering if it was the same experience a few mentioned in pages above. Was watching Monday night football and the screen flashed black. The image then became wavy and purple in tint before the screen turned off (and then the red led started flashing). :eek: Initially suspected a cable problem or power surge (thiough no other devices including lamps showed an effect).

Turned the TV back on, it came up for a second, turned purple/wavy and then shut off and the led started flashing again. :eek: :eek:

Remebered reading something about the red light, resetting, degaussing (sp?) from this thread, searched and let the TV sit unplugged for 2 min. Set came back with a bit of a minute flicker for a min or two but has been fine since. Anyone else have a similar experience?

Has not happened on my 960 but did happen on my 30XS and I hope it doesn't happen again.

Go easy one me - new HD user here !

Just received my KD34XBR960 and have to say its incredible - but not getting picky and trying to refine my setup!. Have read and searched through this huge thread and found some hints to my questions below but want to verify my understanding

Couple of questions:

1) Trying to optimize my SD image which isn't bad but after watching HD it doesn't cut it. i have a 8300HD cable box/DVR and enabled all of the output formats. TV is connected via HDMI. I'm thinking I might be able to improve the SD image quality by using a different input via composite for Sd vs input 7 via HDMI? Also this would allow different video settings for the seperate input allowing optimization for SD vs the one used for HD. Am I right in understanding that over HDMI all image are upconverted to 1080i on the Sony so SD looks grainy vs viewing SD on a component input at 480 resolution (my understanding is the Sony is native 480p and 1080i and converts anything else (720) to 1080i. Is my understanding correct. Any other tips in my situation?

2) Another option to solve question 1 above. The 8300HD has a Pass through option with composite only - if I use composite then I could set this to pass through and then 480 will not be upconverted and hence be better while 1080 is obviosuly fine and the Sony would upconvert 720?

3) Originally had the TX hooked up with component. Recently added HDMI cable. Now everything seems sharper but perhaps too contrasty and darker even with brightness pushed up and setting up video settings seems more difficult and I can't get it quite right. Component somehow seemed "smoother" and brighter. Am I seeing properly - any recommendations - should I go back to component? or perhaps someone can suggest suggested settings - using pro, monitor, neutral etc

Any other tips given my equipment and setup?

Great forum and thread !

I got my 960 in July and have been doing the same type adjustments. Just got an HDMI cable a week ago and hooked it up to my SA 8300 box too. SD looks better thru component, haven't tried composite. The more I turn Sharpness down to 0, the better the picture looks in any mode, takes away graininess.

I don't have many other specifics to offer but sounds like you are on the right track. I'm probably gonna return my 8300, I mostly got it to watch some HBO and the show is over, it cuts off lots of recordings too early, I don't watch all these digital channels it offers, and will save $35 on cable. Most all the network HD channels come over standard cable anyway, I don't need the 8300 box for HD. Will miss the Hi-def recording tho.
good luck.

Has not happened on my 960 but did happen on my 30XS and I hope it doesn't happen again.

Seemed to be a one off issue (fingers crossed). Set performed as normal during 4 hours of baseball last night and I couldn't notice any flaws.

I'm right on the 30 day cusp so I suppose warranty liability will switch from BB to Sony if this becomes a recurring issue.

I've found that sd looks pretty good if you run coax directly to the TV. I have it split coming out of the wall. One going to the TV. The other to the cable box.

Curious: What is the Super Fine Pitch that Sony talks about. Anyone now the size. I have a 38" RCA that has a awesome picture and they say it's a pitch of .78mm

DyeLooper

I use the S Video input for non-HD since it seems video settings for HD need to be different from those for standard broadcast. This also allows me to take advantage of the wide-stretch mode.

Couple of newbie questions from someone who just sold their LD collection and never saw a DVD with progressive scan before! All DVDs are movies. My aim is to have the settings as Video Essentials 'right' as possible, short of professional calibration (which I'll have done in a few months):

1. I just got the new NS90V DVD player, connected with HDMI cable. I assume the "HDMI Resolution" setting on the DVD player should be on the default setting, AUTO ("the player outputs video signals of the highest resolution acceptable for your TV"), and not on one of the other settings (1920x 1080i, or 1280x 720p, or 720x480p). Yes?

2. On the DVD player, BRN (Block Noise Reduction) and MNR (Mosquito Noise Reduction) should be set to the OFF (the default settings). Is that right?

3. To watch an old 4:3 movie in its original format (not stretched), I believe I have to, surprisingly, change the "4:3 Output" setting on the DVD player, which has both the default FULL setting ("select this when you can change the aspect ratio on your TV"), and NORMAL ("select this when you CANNOT change the aspect ratio on your TV. Shows a 16:9 aspect ratio signal with black bands on left and right sides of image"). I started with the default FULL setting, but then there was no setting on the xbr960 that would display a normal 4:3 picture. So I changed the DVD player setting to NORMAL, which solves the problem.

But my question is, why won't the xbr960 recognize a 4:3 DVD? Doesn't it seem odd that the 34xbr960 wouldn't be one of the sets Sony had in mind when they said "when you can change the aspect ratio on your TV". The set's "SCREEN MODE" offers only the High-Definition settings (Full, Zoom, Horizontal Expand and Vertical Expand), as if the TV thinks I'm playing a 16:9 DVD.

4. On the DVD player, you can select the CUSTOM PICTURE MODE. STANDARD is the default ("displays a standard picture"), but there are 4 other modes, including CINEMA 1 ("enhances details in dark areas by increasing the black level") and CINEMA 2 ("white colors become brighter and black colors become richer and the color contrast is increased"). Then, under HINT, it says "When you watch a movie, CINEMA 1 or CINEMA 2 is recommended". Which setting should I use, following "Video Essentials" thinking?

Sorry for the length! And thanks.

The XBR will only change aspect ratio for non-HD inputs. You'll need to output it at 4:3 ("normal") just like you said. If you were, say, using the S-Video input on the XBR, then the TV's controls would work.

The XBR will only change aspect ratio for non-HD inputs. You'll need to output it at 4:3 ("normal") just like you said. If you were, say, using the S-Video input on the XBR, then the TV's controls would work.

Thanks, I get it now.

Does anyone know (I have not yet looked in the book) if I can set the settings for each video input? Such as Full & Pro for video 5 and wide zoom for cable? That way I wouldn't have to switch everytime?

Does anyone know (I have not yet looked in the book) if I can set the settings for each video input? Such as Full & Pro for video 5 and wide zoom for cable? That way I wouldn't have to switch everytime?

Answered in your other thread, but here it is again:

Menu>Video>Advanced Video>Program>ModeMemory>Choose On or Off

Brad and I are both battling this issue. So to update my side of the saga! :o

A little background: My XBR960 has been experiencing a "phosphor decay" problem. For example, I'm watching the credits of a movie ending, as the credits move up on the screen, I can see the "ghost" of the wording as it moves up the screen, this lasts for about 0.25 to 1/3 of a second. But the spec for this should be in the ms range, or less. Anyway back to future, err, the story.

After describing my problem to a level 2 Sony Tech, they faxed over a work request to my "Sony authorized service facility" where I live. The guy came (7/6/05) and replaced the B-Y board, which handles some of the video-processing
for the set. The set still showed this ghosting problem (on all inputs, HD, SD, everything!)

Anyway fast-forward to 9/9/05. (Busy, on vacation, work, women, etc.) Another tech (friendly, experienced, smart, my age) from my "Sony authorized service facility" comes over to verify the problem. It took him a little while, but once I pointed out what was happening he saw it very easily too. Afterward, he wrote down on the service call receipt, "Verified problem with unit. Believe CRT is problem. Will call Sony and call customer...." He called me back a few days later after talking to his special Sony Tech help line. After carefully describing the problem, the Sony Tech believed it also was the CRT, but to be absolutely sure, he authorized another replacement board.

Fast forward to 9/23/05. My tech comes over and replaces the M-Z board which handles video processing as well. Well, you guessed right, no luck (just as I thought). He wrote down on this service receipt, "Installed part did not solve problem. Need to call Sony and call customer..." My guy told me that next thing Sony might try to have him do, would be to change the Q-Box. Remember Brad Smith had his Q-Box changed for cable-card issues, and it didn't affect the ghosting one bit. If Sony decides to go down that route, it's not going to change anything except waste another week in the football season and really cement that the CRT is defective. I honestly don't care if Sony in the end decides to "repair or replace the Product," (according to the limited warranty) as long as everything works good, afterward. So right now, I'm waiting for my tech to get back to me after talking to Sony on a path-forward. Will update the thread as soon as I know.

A few rules that everyone should follow. Always be nice to your Sony Techs on the phone, always be nice to your service facility techs too. They really appreciate it, it also doesn't hurt if you have some outside interests to talk about with your tech, as I've found out. Document everything!!!!! Names, event ID #s, save receipts, have the tech write down what he thinks, because if it isn't documented, then it didn't happen. This all solves a lot of potential problems down the road. Remember, "it's easier to catch flies with honey than with vinegar."

your XBR960 comrade in arms,


PS. My tv was experiencing overscan issues, the tech changed it the service menu, but in doing that I think he messed up the focus on the left side. Didn't notice until after he left. Instead of a white line in a static image for example I'm seeing a green line, which is surrounded by a red line on one side and blue line on the other. (Not very noticeable, and I'm not going to worry about it right now, this is just a service tweak to reposition the guns I think.) Except the ghosting, the screen is beautiful, watching HD is spectacular, can't wait to have it calibrated! The line to borrow Q's XBR960 starts behind me!!!!! :D

-From another message-
It's all up to Sony Customer Service. According to my tech, Sony tries three repair attempts, for a particular problem then they'll swap. Btw. I got off the phone with my local authorized Sony tech. He spoke again to Sony Tech, they told him to switch the W-Y board after trying the B-Y, and M-Z boards, which is the "inner" board on the neck of the CRT. So if this board doesn't do the trick, then for me it would constitute the third repair attempt on the set. If that turns out to be the case, I'll be calling Sony Customer Service, for a new set. Btw. CC has a similar policy, three repair attempts. I personally don't blame Sony... they are trying to fix the problem. Obviously they want to keep their costs down from replacing a set, if its just a board problem. Partly it's my own fault for dragging it out too. I really hope it works (this time, finally). Then I'll get my set ISFed, and I'll be a happy clam, once more!


The final episode in the trailing saga! :rolleyes:

My tech came out on Monday to replace the W-Y board. No luck... So he wrote down on my copy of the work repair that he believes that the unit was defective. He advised me to call SONY.

After work I did just that, I called SONY Customer Service, a level 3 rep answered the call. I described to him what happened. He pulled up my info based on my TV's serial #. I told him that 4 visits and 3 repair attempts did not solve my problem, and that I wanted a new set. He gave me an event ID #, then he bumped me up to a Level 2 rep. After giving the Level 2 rep my information, and giving him a chance to read the case history, he told me that he would contact another rep in the service center who handles this kind of situation and that I should expect a phone call in 48hrs. The first time this "Level 1" rep calls me he calls my house but not my cell. He gets in touch with me again the next day.

Anyway he has my whole file and tells me that he needs to get some more detail from the local service center, on the problem they saw and the work performed. Once he has all that information as well he forwards it to the Regional Technical Representative who makes the final decision if a set is defective. So it takes 6 people to replace a set, me, my service tech, 3 people in Customer Service and the Technical Rep. :rolleyes:

I call back the next day, (they leave your their phone number and extension) that the technical representative will respond back with a decision to either, exchange the set, have the set fixed, or give me credit. I tell my guy to call me as soon as the tech. rep. has made a decision (it takes up 72 business hours). Anyway I get a call today, from my guy he tells me the set is going to be exchanged!!! :D All I have to do is fax the purchase receipt, which I promptly do. I thank him for taking care of the matter, in a timely fashion. I let him know that I want a brand new set, not a refurb. (he notes in my request to the Procurement Department). I give him one more call a little while ago to finish any loose ends. I let him know that I want the TV to be setup so I can test that it doesn't have any issues before I let them leave. He's ok with that! So he already started the process. The warehouse is in Pennsylvania so with any luck within the next two weeks I'll be breaking in a new XBR960! :eek:

PS I'm already working with Brad, since he has a similar problem. If anyone has this issue send me a PM!

Cool - looking forward to your followup on the new one to see if it really is different, or whether this is an inherent issue with all these sets.

My power went out today and the clock has disappeared from the bottom right of the screen. I know this is lame, but how the heck do I reset the clock?

Thanks!

My power went out today and the clock has disappeared from the bottom right of the screen. I know this is lame, but how the heck do I reset the clock?

Thanks!

Menu>Applications>Clocks/Timers>Program>Current Time

Finally,
Well today was the day, I said to myself, lets call around and see if someone has a Sony TV I want. The first BB I called had three, it was 60 miles away so I had to call back for them to actually go and verify they had it in the storeroom before I would drive down there, they had 3 (Cool).
They have been going for 1889.00 at BB, but I asked anyways how much. They were on sale this week for 1709.00. Go figure, I got really lucky. Checked the flyer and it wasn't even in the flyer. To top things off I got a 10% coupon in the mail today. The sale was ending today and I had to get there quickly, they closed in a few hours. I live in MD but bought it in Delaware, TAX FREE. I got a great deal I think.
I have read this thread for awhile now and have gathered alot of information about which TV to buy next, it was definitely the KD-34XBR960. Only have it hooked to the house antenna so far but the picture is unbelievable. I've had the RCA F38310 38" HDTV in my basement for the last 3 1/2 years and it is exceptional, the XBR is out of this world. LCD/Plasma can't touch either of these machines. The only way I will get rid of these is to step up to SED if it's everything they say it will be.
I know I have some tweaking to do on the picture. Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions? Any other suggestions for improvements on a great TV are welcomed. Still need a new Direct TV HDTV Receiver, thoughts? Another satisfied customer, WooHooo.

DyeLooper

Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions?

Congrat's on a great set, and welcome to the club. :)

You can find an ISF trained technician in your area on the ISF website:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm

In the meanntime, take it out of Vivid mode! You may even want to pick up an Avia or Digital Video Essentials DVD (check Amazon...)

Enjoy your new set.

I got mine done by Gregg at http://www.lionav.com

He owns a 960 himself, so he knows the TV inside and out.

I know I have some tweaking to do on the picture. Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions? Any other suggestions for improvements on a great TV are welcomed. Still need a new Direct TV HDTV Receiver, thoughts? Another satisfied customer, WooHooo.
DyeLooper

Welcome to the club.

I had Chuck Williams calibrate mine. Unfortunately he's moved out of the Bmore/Wash area. If a few more people in the MD area want to get their's done we may be able to get Chad, who did Q's 960, to make a tour stop in the area.

In the mean time do a search in the tread for some setting suggestions.

Well I went and looked at this set again last night. I am currently trying to decide between the 960, 42A10, and the Bravia 32" XBR1. I admit, the image on the 960 is stunning and easily beats out the other two. I didn't want another heavy tube set but it looks like I might have to break down and do it. I just hope (and pray) I don't have a lot of the issues that are reported here with the 960. I would be getting this through sony themselves for a credit on my old tv, so returning it would be a pain. At least I would have the 2 year warranty though! Plus I think this set would be an excellent choice when the PS3 launches.

Finally,
They have been going for 1889.00 at BB, but I asked anyways how much. They were on sale this week for 1709.00. Go figure, I got really lucky. Checked the flyer and it wasn't even in the flyer. To top things off I got a 10% coupon in the mail today. The sale was ending today and I had to get there quickly, they closed in a few hours. I live in MD but bought it in Delaware, TAX FREE. I got a great deal I think.



That is a fantastic deal, I wish I could find something like that. I have been waiting to pounce on this TV for about a month now, I told myself if I ever see it below $1800 I'd bite. Circuit City had it for $1809 a few weeks ago and that almost did it. My local Best Buy doesn't have them in stock (but can order them). I have been following the BB and Circuit City websites and in store flyers every week hoping for a deal, but this price didn't come up on the website or in the ad, as you mentioned. I'd prefer an ad because I have a local dealer that will price match and they have excellent customer service (they automatically service everything they sell--no warranty needed). If I ever come across that sort of deal, there will be one more XBR owner on this board. I have set my deadline for the end of November, so hopefully I will see something by then.

Dan

Welcome to the club.

I had Chuck Williams calibrate mine. Unfortunately he's moved out of the Bmore/Wash area. If a few more people in the MD area want to get their's done we may be able to get Chad, who did Q's 960, to make a tour stop in the area.

In the mean time do a search on in the tread for some setting suggestions.


What would something like this cost? I might be in. I live in Cecil County, MD

DyeLooper

Quick question: Do any users have an Xbox hooked up to this set via the HD component cables? I've been playing games in 480p and they don't look so hot. While sharp, they are extremely jaggy and in some cases, particle effects (like the smoke pouring from vents in Doom 3) are pixelated or show visible lines. Is this more a result of the Xbox and the specific games, or is there something going on with my set? I'm assuming it has something to do with 480p, as the one game I own that supports 1080i looks fantastic... Maybe my old SD set was simply so low resolution that I didn't notice these flaws, hehe.

Quick question: Do any users have an Xbox hooked up to this set via the HD component cables? I've been playing games in 480p and they don't look so hot. While sharp, they are extremely jaggy and in some cases, particle effects (like the smoke pouring from vents in Doom 3) are pixelated or show visible lines. Is this more a result of the Xbox and the specific games, or is there something going on with my set? I'm assuming it has something to do with 480p, as the one game I own that supports 1080i looks fantastic... Maybe my old SD set was simply so low resolution that I didn't notice these flaws, hehe.

I do, and the 480p games look better than using S-video, but still don't look so hot. A real 1080i game looks fantastic though, although there are only a handful out there right now. The XBOX 360 will have every game in HD.

:(

Help,
Having problems with the convergence on the lettering/and some pics on my new 960, am using DTV as my source and am hooked up via S-cable right now. HDMI and new HD box to follow shortly. Picture should be better though, YES?

Any suggestions?

DyeLooper

Thanks for the reply, pdroth. Sounds like it's not my set then. The 1080i games do look great, so I can't wait to see Xbox 360 games running on this thing! Should be beautiful.

So I finally did it. Long story short, after running around to two big chains and one small electronics store I used a 10% any in store TV coupon for Best Buy and got Circuit City to Price Match the online price for Best Buy (which is about $100 cheaper than in store) for me on Open Box XBR960. The total price before tax came to $1624.60. Not as great as DyeLooper's deal, but not too bad (almost $300 off current Retail).

I would have rather bought at the smaller local dealer, but he had three strikes against him.

1) He backed out on doing the 10% off the online price after calling Best Buy (apparently they told him different than they told me about matching the coupon w/ the online price).

2) He started talking about offering "his warranty" for cheaper than the other guys. This despite the fact that the last time I was in the store he hit me with a "we service what we sell" pitch. I guess he only "services what he sells" to those who pay retail...

3) He did not have the TV in stock.

Had any one of those three factors not been true, I would probably still have bought from him. As is, I will just have to cross my fingers regarding the display model (which looked good in store) and hope my set turns out ok so I don't have to play telephone tag with Sony reps for the next few months.

At any rate, I'm glad to have it done so I can move on to being ambivalent and undecisive about other more important things. :)

What would something like this cost? I might be in. I live in Cecil County, MD

DyeLooper

Anywhere from $250-$450.

Thanks JohnGZ28 ,
I've found some other settings and have not tried them yet, I'm sure they will work out. I am really concerned about the convergence issue I have with the unit. Is this something I can fix by going into setup menu? Do I wanna do this? or is this for someone else? Technician? Talked to Sony tech and they stated convergence cant be adjusted, I'm not buying it.

Any Advice anyone.

DyeLooper

Thanks JohnGZ28 ,
I've found some other settings and have not tried them yet, I'm sure they will work out. I am really concerned about the convergence issue I have with the unit. Is this something I can fix by going into setup menu? Do I wanna do this? or is this for someone else? Technician? Talked to Sony tech and they stated convergence cant be adjusted, I'm not buying it.

Any Advice anyone.

DyeLooper

If you go into the service menu KenTech's thread (Sony Service Codes) in this forum and UMR's thread (UMR does GWIII) in the Rear Projection forum are must reads first.

Sorry for the cross post

I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.

Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?

Well 1st I would like to thank everyone for there help about this great tv :) . Secondly, I feel somewhat of a fool :confused: .
We were having furniture delivered this week and I wanted to wait to get the TV incase it did not fit our new Entertainment center (It was a brand new model from Bassett and they had no internal dimensions). But this past weekend I decided to call around and got a 10% coupon from BB, they had the TV and I was saving nearly $$ 500.00. If it didnt fit I would take it back. GUESS WHAT, it don't fit. :mad: DAMN!! So I'm taking it back this Friday, unless: There is anyone local to Baltimore/Wilmington, DE that would want it for what I paid, also has a 4 yr extended warranty. Want the final price, you can email me at DyeLooper@yahoo.com, 1st come first served. CASH ONLY!! I did mention in the forum that I think there may be a slight convergence problem. It may just be DTV reception on SD. Who knows. If you are interested, e--mail me. Otherwise the unit goes back on friday morning. Once agin, I appreciate the help. Now just have to figure out what small Plasma/LCD I'm gonna end up with. I do have a 38" RCA CRT in the basement, least I have a good picture somehwere.

DyeLooper

Thanks for the reply, pdroth. Sounds like it's not my set then. The 1080i games do look great, so I can't wait to see Xbox 360 games running on this thing! Should be beautiful.
That depends on your settings. I have mine set to Standard for Xbox and I have turned the brightness down, sharpness down and some other things. Halo 2 and Splinter Cell 3 looks great. If you want my settings, let me know and I'll give you the exact settings.

Sorry for the cross post

I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.

Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?

Same thing happens to me at times, however, I believe it has something to do with the HD cable box. When a station is first tuned on via the cable box, the cable company also has it's name, etc appear at the bottom of the screen for a few seconds. Sometimes I get nothing, but by turning the box off and on once more, the signal comes through. Occasionally, the information bar appears with just a black screen; when going to another channel through the cable box the picture then comes on.

Joe

I have found this Sony KD34XBR960 on line for $1,369.00 new in a box + shipping of $159 to Colorado. I would like to share this site with the forum but alass I don't have enough posts! I have also found this set locally for $1,400 used, no box or shipping mat. not sure about the warranty. It's about 90 miles round trip and I have a truck. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

I have found this Sony KD34XBR960 on line for $1,369.00 new in a box + shipping of $159 to Colorado... WHAT WOULD YOU DO?I would go to the website ResellerRatings.com (http://resellerratings.com/) and see what other folks have to say about the company. Then, while still at ResellerRatings.com, check out the reviews for Crutchfield, which offers free shipping and white-glove customer service.

Also make it clear to your local Circuit City and Best Buy that you are serious about purchasing the set and what is their final offer on selling you the set complete with delivery and setup. Compare all the prices and services offered and determine in your own mind the risk/reward scenario of "What do you do if something goes wrong and you have to exchange the set".

I'm sure all of us here will be happy to offer additional advice when you ask specific questions. Shop Away! :)

Hello,


Has anyone noticed the Channel labels dissappear for Comcast cable channels using Cable Card? I have a Sony KD-34XBR960. I noticed last week that The Call Letters for the channels are not showing, just the channel Number. I can enter them manually but who would want to do that for 300 channels? I have talked with Sony and Comcast with no explaination.

Thanks,

Lonnie

I noticed many posters here are listing their cost for their 34XBR960 so I thought I'd contribute my 2 cents. Actually it was a bit more than 2 cents-$1528.88 plus tax plus $49.88 white glove delivery. I bought the two year extended warranty ($118) but if I have no problems by day 29, that goes back for a refund as allowed by Georgia law. This was bought 10/2/05. No gimmicks, friends, connections, etc.

That depends on your settings. I have mine set to Standard for Xbox and I have turned the brightness down, sharpness down and some other things. Halo 2 and Splinter Cell 3 looks great. If you want my settings, let me know and I'll give you the exact settings.

Yeah, I'd be interested to hear what settings you use for the Xbox.

Sorry for the cross post

I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.

Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?

I had a service technician stop by the house today. After fooling with the TV for a few minutes, he said he has to replace the q-box on it. Unfortunately, he did not have one with him, so he will have to make a return visit. Sucks, I now have to take a second day off work for a brand new $$$ TV that should not have such issues.

Anybody had their q-box replaced? I have seen references to it getting replaced when the cable card won't function. Quick job, or will I have to take a whole day off?

Thanks

Well, I did months of research on TV's with a budget of $3,000 and chose to buy the XBR960. I recieved it about a week ago and couldn't be happier (unless there was a 40inch model...)The HD picture is absolutely amazing....much better than anything I have seen in the stores. This Tv really shines when the lights are off! I thought I would just post some comments and observations from someone who was very picky and restless about which TV to buy.

First let me say that I was a bit concerned that this set would not be big enough, but these TV's are always bigger in your home than in the store. I think a 37 or 40 inch would be perfect, but I am very happy with the 34inch. I looked at all of the available sets in the 40inch range and I would have paid $1,000 more for a more inferior pic quality...just wasn't worth it to me for a slightly bigger TV screen.

Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.

I used the Avia disc for calibration and I seem to have found a pic that I can live with. I do have a question. Many people set the VM to off, but I seem to like it at Medium......any thoughts???

Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.

My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?

In conlcusion I would like to say that this TV is a great picture for the money. Nothing in this price range even comes close in terms of picture quality. Spend the extra money and get the good cables and surge protector. I will write more later and post pics. BTW, I am sitting about 9 feet from the set and I think it is perfect. If I really wanted a cinematic experience I would just spend the $8 and go to the movies. :)

Can anyone tell me why I lose the closed captioning on my HD channels when using the cable card and when using the cable box connected via component inputs, but retain the captioning on the same exact channels when using the cable box via the RF connection to the VHF/UHF input? I figured it's too late tonight to call Sony but not too late for this spot.

My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?I am also a new XBR 960 owner, about a month now. I have a low/mid-priced DVD player (JVC XVN40 purchased at Sam's Club for $70) that offers progressive scan and I have found that the picture looks slightly crisper when player's progressive scan is turned off and the TV does the work.

I know little about the whole subject and just assume that the circuitry in the TV is better than the circuitry in the DVD player when comparing the player's 480i vs 480p output.

So it might not be critical for you to run out an immediately purchase a DVD player if you are planning on replacing it when HD or BR DVD becomes available.

I'm sure others here are WAY more knowledgable than me on this subject though. :)

Can anyone tell me why I lose the closed captioning on my HD channels when using the cable card and when using the cable box connected via component inputs, but retain the captioning on the same exact channels when using the cable box via the RF connection to the VHF/UHF input? I figured it's too late tonight to call Sony but not too late for this spot.

It wouldn't surprise me if it's a limitation of the Cable Card.

Well, I did months of research on TV's with a budget of $3,000 and chose to buy the XBR960. I recieved it about a week ago and couldn't be happier (unless there was a 40inch model...)The HD picture is absolutely amazing....much better than anything I have seen in the stores. This Tv really shines when the lights are off! I thought I would just post some comments and observations from someone who was very picky and restless about which TV to buy.

First let me say that I was a bit concerned that this set would not be big enough, but these TV's are always bigger in your home than in the store. I think a 37 or 40 inch would be perfect, but I am very happy with the 34inch. I looked at all of the available sets in the 40inch range and I would have paid $1,000 more for a more inferior pic quality...just wasn't worth it to me for a slightly bigger TV screen.

Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.

I used the Avia disc for calibration and I seem to have found a pic that I can live with. I do have a question. Many people set the VM to off, but I seem to like it at Medium......any thoughts???

Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.

My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?

In conlcusion I would like to say that this TV is a great picture for the money. Nothing in this price range even comes close in terms of picture quality. Spend the extra money and get the good cables and surge protector. I will write more later and post pics. BTW, I am sitting about 9 feet from the set and I think it is perfect. If I really wanted a cinematic experience I would just spend the $8 and go to the movies. :)

Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!

When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.

- Joe

When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.

- Joe

What an oxymoron. Tell me, how do you plan on keeping the TV safe from surges or other related problems?

Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!

When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.

- Joe


All I have to say this rankly poor advice you were given: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

She should have just put away the pretense and told you outright: "Please don't protect your TV so you can have easy damage happen sooner and then hopefully buy another one...from us, of course" ;)

Joe, you're a smart guy. I can't believe your most BASIC instinct didn't recoil immediately at the sound of this "advice."

Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.


I forgot to mention this during my review. I am stunned by the quality of the sound. I had this TV delivered on the day I moved into a new apartment. For a good week or two I didn't have a stereo set up and relied solely on the 960. I enjoyed movies and even a concert video or two. Now I'm glad to have my full AV setup, but it really was adequate.

I forgot to mention this during my review. I am stunned by the quality of the sound. I had this TV delivered on the day I moved into a new apartment. For a good week or two I didn't have a stereo set up and relied solely on the 960. I enjoyed movies and even a concert video or two. Now I'm glad to have my full AV setup, but it really was adequate.

Agreed. VERY respectable "stock" sound, for sure. :)

Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!

When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.

- Joe
The advice might not be that bad. Here's what happens----when you first turn your 960 on there is a huge surge of current for the degausser circuitry. If your surge protector limits that current in any way you will only get a partial degaussing which can really screw up your picture. I know --- I learned the hard way. I solved this by getting a huge battery backup system that protected me from outside voltage variations and also could handle the 960's huge initial surge turn on. Hope this has been helpful.

Bob W.

What size battery backup system are you using Bob?

The advice might not be that bad. Here's what happens----when you first turn your 960 on there is a huge surge of current for the degausser circuitry. If your surge protector limits that current in any way you will only get a partial degaussing which can really screw up your picture. I know --- I learned the hard way. I solved this by getting a huge battery backup system that protected me from outside voltage variations and also could handle the 960's huge initial surge turn on. Hope this has been helpful.

Bob W.

That's a very good point. :)

Hmmm, I'll second the question: What battery backup are you using?

What size battery backup system are you using Bob?


I currently use an APC UPS 2200, which is way overkill. I had it because I used it to supply backup to four different computers. I have been told the APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA works great and costs around $200 (vs $1200 for the 2200.) I had previously used a surge protector and then an APC 620 and they both limited the degausser. So it's plug it straight into wall or use a battery backup that has at least a 1200 VA rating so you can supply at least an instantaneous 10 amps to the degausser when you turn your 960 on. Hope this helps!!

The Belkin 1100 VA model might be OK too. There use to be a coupon code that gave half off. I think it was " friend of Belkin" but I am not sure. It was listed in the early days of the Qualia Owners thread. Don't even know if it is still valid.

Thank you for the reply Bob.

So, IYO, which of these would be more appropriate for the job?

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=H15

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500

Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.


Just wait till you add a $1000 power cord. It really comes alive then. :D :D

Congrats on the purchase.

Thank you for the reply Bob.

So, IYO, which of these would be more appropriate for the job?

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=H15

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500



The Power conditioner is the best because it outputss sine waves(60 Hz). The other unit is gopod too, but it outputs square waves(60 Hz). You could see a difference using the "conditioner" if you have a real high end audio system otherwise the cheaper one should do just fine for supporting the 960's initial appetite for current..

Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?

What do you guys think?

Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?

What do you guys think?

You can still get surges through the TV's power cord.

I used an AVIA disc but since I am very much a neophyte at this sort of video adjustment, I was unsure of what "looked right" on many of the test patterns. The tests themselves are fairly easy to understand, but I guess it was just that I lack trained eye to notice the subtle adjustment differences I was aiming for (and I know they are not "subtle" to many of you, who have been tinkering with this sort of thing for a while).

However, when I went back and switched everything over to the suggested "starting point" settings people recommended in this thread (Pro, Monitor, Brightness & Picture in high -s-low 40's, Sharpness around 20 etc.), I ended up being very happy with the results. I watched Pink Floyd's "The Wall" last night on it in HD and it was amazing. First time I really noticed a very obvious jump in quality from my old analog Wega which this set was replacing.

I'm also now really looking forward to seeing the 360's stuff on this set, because the current gaming stuff (evein the 480P stuff) seems to look a bit worse than on my old set. Ninja Gaiden, for example, looks very grainy whereas before it looked smooth and crisp. But I was aware of this before purchase, I really bought it for films and for the new upcoming systems and I think I'm going to be rather happy with its performance for both of those things.

Dan

Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?

What do you guys think?


It was only by chance that I found out the 960 should not be plugged into a surge protector.

I called Sony service because there was no video or audio after the power went on (this was rectified). When instructed to unplug it for five minutes I casually mentioned I disconnected it from a surge protector. At that point I was told not to use a surge protector and have the set plugged directly into the wall. Reading bobhoppel's post I now also understand the reason why.

I used an AVIA disc but since I am very much a neophyte at this sort of video adjustment, I was unsure of what "looked right" on many of the test patterns. The tests themselves are fairly easy to understand, but I guess it was just that I lack trained eye to notice the subtle adjustment differences I was aiming for (and I know they are not "subtle" to many of you, who have been tinkering with this sort of thing for a while).

However, when I went back and switched everything over to the suggested "starting point" settings people recommended in this thread (Pro, Monitor, Brightness & Picture in high -s-low 40's, Sharpness around 20 etc.), I ended up being very happy with the results. I watched Pink Floyd's "The Wall" last night on it in HD and it was amazing
Dan

Hi Dan,

I'm the same, nervous and insecure way when it comes to what a picture should really look like. This past week I experimented with the vidid mode and found it improved the picture quality for all connections (HD, SD, DVD and VHS). While I loved the picture beforehand I compared these to my stored settings in "movie" mode and found them more life-like. I used a THX optomizer for my DVD settings and adjusted the other inputs appropriately for the same effect.

If you're interested, these are my latest settings (subject to change without notice, of course):

VIDEO 7 (HD): vivid, 32, 19, 32, R2, 11, warm, high, default on.

VIDEO 5 (component DVD): vivid, 20, 31, 29, R2, 19, warm, high, cinemotion, Palette 61, 54, default on.

VIDEO 4 (VHS): Vivid, 29, 17, 22, R2, 23, warm, low, cinemotion, Palette 82/81, default on.

VIDEO 1 (Standard Cable S Video): Vivid, 32, 26, 23, R2, 21, warm, low, interlaced, Palette 60/1, Default on.

Only with DVD is the brightness actually higher than the picture setting. Could be because there are separate brightness settings for 4x3 and widescreen monitors on the player.

What do you and others on this thread think?

Best,
Joe

Hi Dan,
If you're interested, these are my latest settings (subject to change without notice, of course):

VIDEO 7 (HD): vivid, 32, 19, 32, R2, 11, warm, high, default on.

What do you and others on this thread think?

Joe

Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.

When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.

Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.

Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.

Sharpness around 20 I have been setting sharpness to 0 (i.e. MIN) ever since I got my Sampo 34WHD5 in 2001 and adjusted it using Video Essentials.

When my Sampo died last February and I replaced it with a 34XBR960, one of the things I did as part of my setup (now using Digital Video Essentials) was again to set sharpness to 0/MIN.

If you haven't turned sharpness OFF, you're not getting the best picture out of your XBR960. In my opinion, all tuning should require that sharpness be set to 0/MIN... no questions asked. Tweak other things, but set sharpness OFF.

There is nothing like looking at the multi-colored scales on a rattlesnake slithering across the Texas desert from a distance of camera two feet away... WITH ZERO SHARPNESS!! You'd think the snake was inside the XBR.

HDTV <-> SHARPNESS=OFF

(just my two cents)

The Power conditioner is the best because it outputss sine waves(60 Hz). The other unit is gopod too, but it outputs square waves(60 Hz). You could see a difference using the "conditioner" if you have a real high end audio system otherwise the cheaper one should do just fine for supporting the 960's initial appetite for current..

What do you think of the Belkin PF60?

I certainly couldn't be more pleased with it myself, across the boards. :)

Hi Joseph,

Vivid kind of looked better to me at first too, but standard definition stuff looked incredibly grainy, and when I realized I was looking for naturalistic color, not just "bright" colors, I realized what everyone was talking about when they refer to Vivid (which has Brightness all the way up, I believe) as a type of "torch" mode. After doing the adustments listed above, standard looked a lot smoother.

The only problem I have with my current settings is that they only look great at night. When I am using the set in the daytime (I am in a room that is quiet open to sunlight) I can't see anything. I have to turn the brightness up, and then the picture starts to look better. Maybe I should just invest in some blinds for the windows, but I really like the openness of the room...

Dsperber, I will try moving the sharpness the rest of the way down, but truthfully my eyes are still adjusting to even the "softness" of 20. Standard Def looks less grainy, but it also looks a little blurry (which I think is an improvement, though). However, I didn't notice any blurryness at all with HD signals, so maybe moving the sharpness down would make them look better, not worse.

Dan

Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.

When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.

Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.

Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.

Hi John,

My glasses get darker in the sunlight so perhaps this offset the blinding light you found on VIVID; yesterday's White Sox-Angel game appeard to start in sunlight and end at night LOL.

I was concerned about too much contrast in VIVID (why Sony set the picture to the top is insane) but as you saw, my picture mode is just 32 with brightness down to 19. Much lower settings than those listed by other users of this thread.

When I first checked out the PRO mode I found it too soft but will try again and will compare it to my VIVID. Since the 960 retains settings for each picture option it will be easy to compare. Will let you know my thoughts.

Take care,
Joe

Has anyone who owns the 34XBR960 had a chance to check out the new Sony Bravia series LCD, KDL-V40XBR1?

The price difference is huge but it would be easier to convince my wife to upgrade our 34" Toshiba to the 40" Bravia than it is to get another heavy 34" CRT. The price is a good reason.

Has anyone who owns the 34XBR960 had a chance to check out the new Sony Bravia series LCD, KDL-V40XBR1?

The price difference is huge but it would be easier to convince my wife to upgrade our 34" Toshiba to the 40" Bravia than it is to get another heavy 34" CRT. The price is a good reason.

The Bravias are Samsung products with a Sony label slapped on them. From there, it's the same LCD vs. CRT debate for the millionth time. It's up to you and your needs.

If size and weight aren't an issue to you, and PQ is priority one, the 960 wins hands down.

What do you think of the Belkin PF60?

I certainly couldn't be more pleased with it myself, across the boards. :)


As long as it is supplying the initial current demands of the 960, the specs on it look great!

UPDATED: Just talked with Sony rep for PNW region. He clarified that Samsung and Sony are sharing a huge facilty but there are walls in between the two groups. They use different teams and parts. Sony Bravias are not Samsungs.


Q,

Thanks for indicating that Bravias are made by Samsung. I was not aware of that, definitely cools my interest. I don't have confidence in Samsung's long term reliability.

What's your opinion on buying a refurbished unit from the Sony Outlet store?
My nearest Sony Outlet store has 7 XBR960s for significantly less than $1699 (wouldn't give the exact price over the phone) which is the best local price for a new one (from Video Only). The Sony Outlet also sells Sony 3 year extended coverage for $59.

Q,

Thanks for indicating that Bravias are made by Samsung. I was not aware of that, definitely cools my interest. I don't have confidence in Samsung's long term reliability.

What's your opinion on buying a refurbished unit from the Sony Outlet store?
My nearest Sony Outlet store has 7 XBR960s for significantly less than $1699 (wouldn't give the exact price over the phone) which is the best local price for a new one (from Video Only). The Sony Outlet also sells Sony 3 year extended coverage for $59.

With the 3 year warrenty don't know how you could go wrong with a price lower than $1699.

With the 3 year warrenty don't know how you could go wrong with a price lower than $1699.


Seconded.

I was just at a Sony Outlet store where the price was $1599, with a five year warranty for ~$130. Don't know if that's what they mean by "significant," but it's still a good price. However, they don't deliver, and with a set of this size, that was a deal (back?) breaker for me.

I guess my definition of "significant" is quite different than the person answering the phone. $100 dollars is not enough to buy refurbished. But I'll have to make a trip to the outlet to see if the prices here are different.

The Bravias are Samsung products with a Sony label slapped on them. From there, it's the same LCD vs. CRT debate for the millionth time. It's up to you and your needs.

If size and weight aren't an issue to you, and PQ is priority one, the 960 wins hands down.

I believe Sony and Samsung have a joint venture in an lcd factory. The panels are the same, but the electronics are different.

Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.

When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.

Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.

Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.

Hi Again, John,

Used the PRO mode and made what I believed were the proper settings adjustments. Cannot argue against the great picture quality in PRO but I still found VIVID slightly more to my liking. The differences were subtle, more in softness and color enhancement than anything else. It was not as big a difference as NASCAR night and day LOL.

As you correctly pointed out, it comes down to preference. But thanks for the suggestion.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Again, John,

As you correctly pointed out, it comes down to preference. But thanks for the suggestion.

Take care,
Joe

Bottom line is you're happy with the picture and that's all that matters. Unless you invite me over, then you'll have to change to PRO for hospitality sake. :D

Dsperber, I will try moving the sharpness the rest of the way down, but truthfully my eyes are still adjusting to even the "softness" of 20. Standard Def looks less grainy, but it also looks a little blurry (which I think is an improvement, though). However, I didn't notice any blurryness at all with HD signals, so maybe moving the sharpness down would make them look better, not worse.The first time I did this (upon the DEMAND of "Video Essential" narrator) back in 2001, I too felt I was not going to like it. But it didn't take long to get used to it, and now I consider anything higher than ZERO to be "ruining" the perfection of zero "artificial edge enhancement" (which really is what sharpness is).

I grant you, it does take a little getting used to sharpness set to MIN since it certainly appears "softer" than 20 (or anything else, for that matter)! But look around you in the real world... do you see edge enhancement? You sill quickly realize that MIN is reality, and anything else is artificial and "noisy"... just from the visual result. I also have "clear edge VM" turned OFF, for the same reason.

Truth be told, I do have sharpness set to 19 for one of my inputs... INPUT3, which I use for input from my JVC 40K whose tuner I use strictly to record/watch local SD non-digital off-air UPN (channel 13). The picture is so mediocre on 13 that I was actually forced to go to 19 to satisfy myself even minimally. Unfortunately I cannot receive digital UPN in my area.

But on my other SD input (INPUT1) which is fed by a D* Hughes E45 that provides excellent SD picture quality, not only do I again have sharpness set to MIN but I even have DRC set to "progressive" (which I discovered definitely improved high-quality SD even further)! Looks terrific.

ALL my other inputs (5, 6, 7, iLink) have sharpness set to MIN.

Remember, tweaks should be done using test patterns and something like DVE/Avia, in viewing conditions you're likely to be using (e.g. at night, or in near darkness). Exceptional problems injected by broad daylight viewing conditions have nothing to do with how you should correctly set things up for night viewing.

And also remember that all of your tweaks will be based on where you start. Have you gone to PRO mode, turned "clear edge VM" off, set color temp (I happen to like like "cool" while others suggest "neutral"), set color axis (I left mine at "default" while others urge "monitor")? Anything you set in these basic starting points will influence what you eventually end up with in your set of tweak values. There's no question you end up compensating in tweaks for how you start with these basic settings, so don't be surprised where you end up. If you start with Sony-imputed biases active (i.e. anything presets other than OFF) you will end up compensating to get back to true HD reality.

Eventually, you'll still probably do a little real world adjusting after you're done, to satisfy your subjective conclusion on how much you like your result. For example, I think Leno (and other high-quality HD) looks better when it's just a tad darker (i.e. with brightness turned down one notch) than how I seem to end up using test patterns. I think true color (especially skin tone) looks better with just slightly less brightness than what Pluge patterns tell me is right during tweaking.

In the end, it's really up to you what you want to end up with and what you feel is "best". You're the one viewing, and you should enjoy it. But you really should give alternative fundamental settings (e.g. sharpness set to MIN) a chance to convince you.

Bottom line is you're happy with the picture and that's all that matters. Unless you invite me over, then you'll have to change to PRO for hospitality sake. :D

Hi John,

You're welcome to come over anytime..., just don't forget to bring your sunglasses LOL.

As you saw, I use low contrast, brightness and sharpeness settings with the color not quite half way. I did want to avoid the easy mistake of over saturation. It was easier to tweak for DVD since I used a THX optimizer; too bad cable doesn't provide a test pattern on a HD channel to use as reference.

Joe

I currently use an APC UPS 2200, which is way overkill. I had it because I used it to supply backup to four different computers. I have been told the APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA works great and costs around $200 (vs $1200 for the 2200.) I had previously used a surge protector and then an APC 620 and they both limited the degausser. So it's plug it straight into wall or use a battery backup that has at least a 1200 VA rating so you can supply at least an instantaneous 10 amps to the degausser when you turn your 960 on. Hope this helps!!

These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?

too bad cable doesn't provide a test pattern on a HD channel to use as reference.

Joe

INHD has a program called Tune Up on saturday mornings at 7am EST. I just caught the end of it yesterday, but it might be what you are looking for.

INHD has a program called Tune Up on saturday mornings at 7am EST. I just caught the end of it yesterday, but it might be what you are looking for.

Hi Long Rufas,

Thanks for letting me know of the program on INHD. Will tape it to see if it has user references and if so I'll get up early another Saturday morning to use it. Meantime, the tape might help in making more precise settings for VHS.

Thanks again,
Joe :)

These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?


Surge Protectors unfortunately try to resist current changes whether it happens on the input or output. If you did have a surge protector that allowed that kind of draw--by definition it would limit and maybe eliminate protection from outside changes. That's why a sufficient battery backup systems(UPS) can solve the situation with the 960. UPS systems won't allow changes(current or voltage) from the outside to effect its outputs. It gets its output from internal batteries and AC inverting circuits that keep the output at a constant voltage and supplies the sufficient current during the 960's startup period. The UPS systems can run from minutes to hours without power to the input depending on what size UPS system you get and what load you hang on them. In other words, they can also keep things going during short power outages. Hope this helps.

These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?The APC H15 (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=H15) that was already mentioned rates 1500 VA, and it's designed for AV equipment. It's pricey, though, even more so if you want battery backup (see the APC S15 (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=S15)).

A question of the lesser of two evils:
Is it worse to plug the 960 into a wall outlet that is more than likely poorly wired and already feeding a lot of equipment and is prone to blowing the fuse when an AC is running, or to plug the 960 into a $30 APC surge protector that's plugged into the same crappy, loaded outlet? In other words, is it better to risk the surge or the insufficient current at power on?

I get my TV this week, but I can't get my S15 until the end of the month. :(

Does a good power source like the PureAv or "Acoustic Research surge protector" have big impact on PQ ?

Hey guys, I’m recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I’m having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv’s.

Also, I have the tv is having a faint white vertical line in the 4:3 mode. People have mentioned this in previous threads but have not mentioned how to fix this issue. Some one said it is a SUM Circuit, but didn’t leave me any options to fix it.
Another forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=491983

Also here is what it exactly looks like: http://rob.team-affliction.com/albums/xbr960.jpg

It happens in any 4:3 mode, and the images on the tv is a little bit bright where the line appears. It is something that is bugging me and it seems the only cure I have to fix it is to make the tv a little darker.

Is there a way to fix the convergence issues / the white line issue in the service menu ? Is there a tutorial on how to fix this anywhere on the forums with out completely messing up the tv ? I would go under warenty / replace the tv with a new one, but at 200lbs and owning an rsx would be a bit to much in planning on my friends truck again.

With my terk hdtv indoor antenna which I use for HDTV I believe I’m having a problem. The problem is really hard to describe. I can kind of see each pixels bouncing if you really look carefully at a couple of pixels on the tv. You can easily see the difference in a back ground that is one color. I do notice is everytime I watch the cards @ Astros on fox. There is a green rectangle behind the homeplate on the left. It looks like each pixel is shaking around and kind of looks distorted. I’m note sure if this is my tv or the way HDTV works.

Also on cnet, I was reading this review on the TV:

“Full user opinion
The XBR worked for two hours and then went into a perpetual sleep mode. It would not power up. After spending close to an hour talking to a Sony Tech., I was advised there was a tuner problem. One in five sets apparently had this problem. The tech's advice was "return the set to the store." If I wanted it fixed there was a two week waiting period for the part. Warning to all, if you buy this set make sure it is delivered and set up by a store tech. Get the extended warranty and run it 24/7 for the first month or return period. I am sure Sony knows this problem exists. Do not buy the set if the tv manufacture date is May 2005. I hope Sony realizes what this is doing to their quality product reputation.
Shame on Sony, buyer beware.”

My tv is manufactured in May 2005. I’m kind of wondering that with the two problems I’m having that my tv may break after the 30 day period. I really hate warrenty stuff with shipping the tv back to sony and out of a tv for 6 months. Should I return this tv to brandsmart which will end 11/01/05 and pick up another one and hope the manufacture date is not May 2005 ? Should I get the newer model 34xbr960n ?

I’m trying to improve the picture detail with Standard Def over Directtv. I’m using an older direct tv receiver, RCA (DRD430RG), w/ s-video. I understand from reading some posts on this forum that the best tv settings are something like:

Mode: Pro

Brightness: 25
Color / Hue: 31-0
Color Temp: warm
Sharpness: 25
ClearEdge VM: Off
Color Axis: Monitor
Picture: 36
Brightness: 25
Color / Hue: 31-0

If anything of these should change a little bit let me know.
Also I really don’t notice a big difference between:
Progressive
CineMotion
Interlaced
-
DRC: Custom 1, 2, 3 ?
I noticed Interlaced looks a little blurry and fuzzy over the espn ticker on the bottom of espn 2/ Between Progressive and CineMotion I don’t notice a difference.

Sorry to hear about the problems with your set hywdx80.

I purchased an XBR960 about two weeks ago and have experienced none of the issues that you have. My HD looks superb and there is no site of the green rectangle issue you are seeing. Have you tried not using the Direct TV box to see how the HD looks straight out of the wall? Is it worse/better?

I would strongly suggest you consider finding a way to exchange your set for a new one while you still have the opportunity. That white line has to be bothersome and you shouldn't have to darken the picture on a new set to avoid such an issue. You paid too much money to have to deal with that. For reference sake my set has a production date of September 2005. What month was your's produced?

Here is what I'm using to view HD through Video 5 Component with a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD box.

Mode: Pro

Pic: 25
Bri: 42
Col: 31
Hue: R2
Sharp: Min "0"
Color Temp: Warm
Clear Edge: Off
Adv. Video: Monitor

Hey guys, I’m recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I’m having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv’s.Don't hesitate. Call SONY and get a factory authorized tech to come out and deal with your primary issues. It will be free to you, assuming you're still within the initial 30-day parts-and-labor warranty from the manufacturer.

Convergence problems on horizontal lines (i.e. vertical convergence) can only be addressed with the placement of a bunch of small magnets on the back of the picture tube. Convergence problems on vertical lines (i.e. horizontal convergence) can be addressed (with varying degrees of success and probable compromise over the entire screen) through the service menu.

A Sony factory tech will do his best to get your set "within factory spec". Hopefully this will be much better than you got it when it was first delivered, and should make it ready for your own personal project of tweaks in your quest for visual perfection.

So I'd recommend you do that first... get a free tune-up adjustment from Sony. Then you can see where you are and proceed further on your own.

It's unlikely the set will be deemed "unacceptable" and justify a total replacement, but if the technician can't resolve the problems don't give up without a fight. Get back to Sony and tell them what's going on. You can talk them into a "second opinion" and second service visit from a local authorized service technician (they'll give you a list of phone numbers in your area), and if you're lucky you'll get someone who's really good. The factory techs are less motivated to spend lots of time on your XBR than the local techs are, and likely won't get the same results. Ultimately, it's possible that a replacement might be needed for a total lemon, but you may have to fight for it.


Also, I have the tv is having a faint white vertical line in the 4:3 mode. People have mentioned this in previous threads but have not mentioned how to fix this issue. Some one said it is a SUM Circuit, but didn’t leave me any options to fix it. Again, while this set is primarily appreciated for its 16x9 HD modes, it certainly does an acceptable job with 4x3 SD.

Don't waste your time addressing these yourself yet. A brand new set will have factory-imputed problems, and a factory tech should straighten them out as best he can before you begin tweaking in the service menu.

This is true for most or all of the other problems you report. Don't even think of addressing problems which may disappear after your tech's visit. Just make sure to demonstrate everything to him. He can decide if he can address them or if they're yours (or if you then want to fight with Sony about what remains).


Mode: Pro

Brightness: 25
Color / Hue: 31-0
Color Temp: warm
Sharpness: 25
ClearEdge VM: Off
Color Axis: Monitor
Picture: 36
Brightness: 25
Color / Hue: 31-0Everybody's set is different, so there's no "right set of values" which will apply to everyone. Plus, most of us have tweaked in the service menu so that the user menu settings (above) will also vary and can't really be considered "best" or "universal". Finally, these values will vary by input, so your SD settings (INPUT1-3) will vary from your HD settings (INPUT4-7), so again there is no "best".

Again, I's recommend not really attempting any major tweaking effort until you get your primary out-of-box tuneup from a Sony tech.

I might suggest that in your HD settings you try Sharpness: MIN. If you're feeding true HD (OTA, cable, D-VHS) to the set, artificially added edge enhancement (which is all that sharpness is) is nothing but added video noise. The idea is to eliminate such stuff for perfect picture, and sharpness:MIN gives you that. On your SD inputs you might try sharpness:19, or as little as you can get away with that doesn't blur out and soften the picture too much. But on your HD inputs, sharpness:MIN is really the way to go.

(for me, I have color temp: COOL, because I prefer it. But to each his own in these "bias" settings. You're just going to end up compensating in the service menu for however you start with such a "bias" preset, so maybe it's not relevant.)

What month was your's produced?



May 2005. I live in atlanta, where did you purchase your tv? I would love to get my hands on a sept 2005 version.

Sorry to hear about the problems with your set hywdx80.

I purchased an XBR960 about two weeks ago and have experienced none of the issues that you have. My HD looks superb and there is no site of the green rectangle issue you are seeing. Have you tried not using the Direct TV box to see how the HD looks straight out of the wall? Is it worse/better?


I use a trek indoor HDTV antenna. Its connected to the back of the tv threw the UHF coax port

DSperber - Thanks for the help. I think my best bet is just to return the TV and hope the new one doesn't have the same problems. I just think the May 2005 manufactured date of the tv is bogus. I can have the tech come to my house and fix the problem, but if something goes wrong after the 30 days of owning it, I'm pretty much suck with a broken tv.

May 2005. I live in atlanta, where did you purchase your tv? I would love to get my hands on a sept 2005 version.

I'm in Houston. I purchased the set from Circuit City. There were only 4 stores in Houston that were stocking them at the time. I called around and spoke to the warehouse managers and had them look up the serial numbers and build dates for the sets they had. I just told them that I had been researching the set and was looking for the newest one they had. They were all July and August builds except for the one September that I found so I went and picked it up.

Call around to the CC's and Best Buy's nearest you and find one with a September set. I'm not positive, because I'm not familiar with Brandsmart, but I imagine either one would price match your other offer. I used to live in Atlanta a few years back. Your best bet in finding a newer set is by checking stores in areas that would be moving XBR960's out of inventory. Try Northpoint, Perimeter, and Lenox. They would more than likely have a September set.

I'm in Houston. I purchased the set from Circuit City. There were only 4 stores in Houston that were stocking them at the time. I called around and spoke to the warehouse managers and had them look up the serial numbers and build dates for the sets they had. I just told them that I had been researching the set and was looking for the newest one they had. They were all July and August builds except for the one September that I found so I went and picked it up.

Call around to the CC's and Best Buy's nearest you and find one with a September set. I'm not positive, because I'm not familiar with Brandsmart, but I imagine either one would price match your other offer. I used to live in Atlanta a few years back. Your best bet in finding a newer set is by checking stores in areas that would be moving XBR960's out of inventory. Try Northpoint, Perimeter, and Lenox. They would more than likely have a September set.

Thanks for the help. How do you tell by the serial number etc on what yr/month the tv set was made with out actually opening the box and looking at the back of the tv for the date ?

Hey guys, I’m recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I’m having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv’s.


Sounds like you may have purchased a B stock or poorly refurbished one. If you can exchange it for another one do so.

Surge Protectors unfortunately try to resist current changes whether it happens on the input or output. If you did have a surge protector that allowed that kind of draw--by definition it would limit and maybe eliminate protection from outside changes. That's why a sufficient battery backup systems(UPS) can solve the situation with the 960. UPS systems won't allow changes(current or voltage) from the outside to effect its outputs. It gets its output from internal batteries and AC inverting circuits that keep the output at a constant voltage and supplies the sufficient current during the 960's startup period. The UPS systems can run from minutes to hours without power to the input depending on what size UPS system you get and what load you hang on them. In other words, they can also keep things going during short power outages. Hope this helps.

Thank you Bob! That does help. It's great to learn about these potential problems in advance. I'm assuming then that you could plug all your entertainment equipment (Sat Receiver, DVD Player etc...) into the UPS thus totally replacing the surge protectors. Is that correct?

I get my TV this week, but I can't get my S15 until the end of the month. :( Never mind! I get it on the same day as my 960! Yay! :)

Justin...what price are you getting the S15 at? PM if you would rather not post?

I'm considering both the H15 and S15 at the moment but can't decide if I need to spend the extra on the S.

Not sure what protocol is for distributor discounts on the forums, so I'll send a PM. I will say that I got it for less than MSRP ($1500) at a reasonable though not ginormous discount.

Thank you Bob! That does help. It's great to learn about these potential problems in advance. I'm assuming then that you could plug all your entertainment equipment (Sat Receiver, DVD Player etc...) into the UPS thus totally replacing the surge protectors. Is that correct?


Yes, that is the ideal setup, if the UPS unit you use has the capacity.

Sorry I have a noob question about the 960. Crutchfield has this on their website.
» all signals displayed at 1080i or 480p

Does this mean If I hook up a device such as a dvd player or watching hdtv in 720p it will either come in 1080i or 480p ?

Does this mean If I hook up a device such as a dvd player or watching hdtv in 720p it will either come in 1080i or 480p ?Yes. The set accepts all native resolutions, but 720p is upconverted by the set so that it displays at 1080i. If you push the DISPLAY button on the remote it will say "720p", describing the source, but the display is actually at 1080i.

Now that the Sampo 34WHD5 (which was the only CRT to display native 720p, I believe) is history, I don't believe there are any other CRT sets which display 720p at 720p. All sets, including the 34XBR960, now upconvert 720p for display at 1080i.

However this does not take away from the wonderful image you still will be seeing.

I've just purchased a floor model from a small retailer at what seemed to be a resaonable price of $1,395. It's a June 2004 model but has claimed low hours, and came with the full two year warranty. Lion AV should be here to calibrate in Mid-November

Anyhow...I have a few questions... The first of which is spurred on by discussion of build dates over the past few days. Obviously newer is better but other than that arethere build dates that are more desirable than others.

Also I have trouble getting the TV to pick up any input from cold start. It seems that if I go to MY DVR on my Motorola HD Comcast cablebox and select a recorded program for playback this seems to jumpstart things. Sounds car like doesn't it? I've seen other posts regarding similar problems with the digital OTA and perhaps with HD Cable. Is this a known issue and is there a known fix.

Thanks in Advance,


Tom Der

Questions with my old rca direct tv receiver and it's bad images quality SD in 4:3 on my xbr960. If I upgrade to a newer one like the "DTV H10" and connect that to my tv instead of the old rca which only has s-video/composite/coax will i receive better SD in 4:3 on the newer direct tv receiver "DTV H10"?

I heard some people claiming that using hdmi/component in SD doesn't look that great. If I hook either s-video/composite/coax/component etc... would the SD images in 4:3 look better or it is just a flaw with SD on a widescreen HD tv ?

The reason I say this is because my OTA antenna picks up really good SD signals over the OTA HDTV in 16:9 but it looks pretty good and I’m try to get my direct tv images to look like that even though it is 100% digital.

Sorry for being a newbie again!

Rob

hywdx80,

I don't know if this helps, since I don't have DirectTV, but I find with my cable box(SA8300), I get a much better picture for SD using either hdmi or component, than I do with the S-video connection. I tried S-video after reading many posts that for SD you should dummy down the signal, but to my eyes it looked fuzzier than hdmi or compontent.

While, analog SD is always a bit of a struggle with must HDTVs, some of the premium digital SD cable channels can look almust DVD like. Again, this is just my experience. Others might have a different opinion.

Yes, that is the ideal setup, if the UPS unit you use has the capacity.

Bob,

Would the before mentioned APC Back-up RS 1500 VA work for this role? It has 4 to 6 battery back-up sockets and 2 serge protection only sockets. I imagine the TV would need to go into one of the battery back-up sockets.

Thanks again for your and everyone else's comments. They have been a BIG help!

David

Bob,

Would the before mentioned APC Back-up RS 1500 VA work for this role? It has 4 to 6 battery back-up sockets and 2 serge protection only sockets. I imagine the TV would need to go into one of the battery back-up sockets.

Thanks again for your and everyone else's comments. They have been a BIG help!

David

Yes, it should work fine!

hywdx80,

I don't know if this helps, since I don't have DirectTV, but I find with my cable box(SA8300), I get a much better picture for SD using either hdmi or component, than I do with the S-video connection. I tried S-video after reading many posts that for SD you should dummy down the signal, but to my eyes it looked fuzzier than hdmi or compontent.

While, analog SD is always a bit of a struggle with must HDTVs, some of the premium digital SD cable channels can look almust DVD like. Again, this is just my experience. Others might have a different opinion.

I also find non-HD signals look better through HDMI but since "wide-zoom" is not an option I often use the lesser standard cable input to fill the screen. The zoom on HDMI is perfect for letterbox movies on non-HD transmissions.

Questions with my old rca direct tv receiver and it's bad images quality SD in 4:3 on my xbr960. If I upgrade to a newer one like the "DTV H10" and connect that to my tv instead of the old rca which only has s-video/composite/coax will i receive better SD in 4:3 on the newer direct tv receiver "DTV H10"?

I heard some people claiming that using hdmi/component in SD doesn't look that great. If I hook either s-video/composite/coax/component etc... would the SD images in 4:3 look better or it is just a flaw with SD on a widescreen HD tv ?

The reason I say this is because my OTA antenna picks up really good SD signals over the OTA HDTV in 16:9 but it looks pretty good and I’m try to get my direct tv images to look like that even though it is 100% digital.

Sorry for being a newbie again!

Rob
I know that some sat. HD receivers upconvert the SD signal. however the only way you can get this up converted signal is by using the component out. this sat. upconversion, seams to conflict with the Sony's and gives you a somewhat fuzzy picture. I have both receivers, HD (using component only) and a SD DVR (using s-video only), I prefer using the s-cable and let the Sony do all the work.

I love this tv

I love this tv

http://www.rage3d.com/board/images/smilies/pics.gif

Anyhow...I have a few questions... The first of which is spurred on by discussion of build dates over the past few days. Obviously newer is better but other than that arethere build dates that are more desirable than others.



What is the issue with build dates now?? :confused: I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.

What is the issue with build dates now?? :confused: I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.

No issue that I'm aware of. I purchased mine in March/April, don't recall the build date but have no problems.

What is the issue with build dates now?? :confused: I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.

There aren't bad issues with any particular build dates... but people question the build quality because of issues specially of the first initial batches of TVs made in the July - September 2004 time period. My TV is being swapped by SONY sometime next week, because of a defect... It's build date is Sept. 2004. I look at it like buying a new car. If it's a redesigned brand new model, there might be a few issues, as time goes on, those issues are addressed, through perfecting the manufacturing process.

May 2005 is the only month that has a build date problem

Concerned after an earlier discussion about my using the vivid mode I reviewed the postings on this thread and found almost everyone using pro. So I did some further experimentation and admit pro is the best of the four mode options.

I earlier found a duller picture in pro compared to vivid, however, I was using the default (set by Sony) for color axis and warm (NTSC standard) for temperature. I now see using monitor and neutral brings out the best overall picture quality under pro, with more brillant whites, natural colors and sharper picture. The less visual enhancements, the better.

We did have a beautiful picture in vivid (but used lower settings than most). But it is even more gorgeous with these new settings.


Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

Anyway to tell what the build date is without opening the box?? Does the serial number on outside of carton give you a clue?

im gonna be getting a 34"XBR from Circuit City, the price on sale is $1804 but they also have a out of box one of it for only $1399, would it be safe to get the out of box one b/c its $400 cheaper or should i get the $1804 one?

I guess it just boils down to "is the $400 savings worth whatever reason the TV has been returned"?

I'm currently using Comcast Cable and have never seen flicker. I've seen pixelation, etc from bad input occasionally. I'm wondering if your sales person was mixing up HI def with 480i input when he was talking about flicker? That's what I think.


I have recently purchased the KD 34XBR960 and have it hooked up to a Comcast digital cable box. Well.....I have the flicker problem that everybody had been discussing. I also had a DirecTV HD receiver hooked up to it and there was no flicker while watching HD. Also, the situation seems to be a bit more pronounced on the HD local channels through Comcast. Unfortunately I am not home often enough to do other tests to diagnose the true nature of the problem. I only watch sports, so from what I see this situation is occuring on ESPN-HD and CBS-HD during football games. If anyone has any suggestions I would welcome them. Thank you very much.

So I did some further experimentation and admit pro is the best of the four mode options.



Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.


Don't mean to butt in, but although I have a different Sony model, I must pass along the same thanks. I feel like a nimrod. :)

I too finally played with my Pro settings and brought out a stunning result. I've only had my new Sony for a week and I felt like I discovered a new display within a display! :D

I agonized with similar thoughts and ended up going with a floor model same price as yours from a local retailer (though purchased through e-bay). I'm happy with the purchase and the TV has performed fine and looks great both cosmetically and performance wise. It's a close call... particularly as I've heard some counts of people who put a little negotiating work getting a new model at Circuit City for $1,600ish. I believe these have been on sale in the New England area at both Best Buy and Circuit City for $1,709.00. My gut says these TVs are not very fast movers as more buyers turn towards plasma, rear projection, or LCD.

In closing...what a TV!

Tom Der
North Hampton, NH


im gonna be getting a 34"XBR from Circuit City, the price on sale is $1804 but they also have a out of box one of it for only $1399, would it be safe to get the out of box one b/c its $400 cheaper or should i get the $1804 one?

May 2005 is the only month that has a build date problem

I appoligize if this has already been discussed and I simply missed it ....... but, WHAT build problems? I hope this isn't a matter of one person having a problem and starting an urban legend. Are there several folks out there that can substantiate this May 05 issue?? And if so... how can you tell the build date on the outside of a carton without opening the box. :confused:

I have seen nothing, in this thread or otherwise, to indicate that there is a build date issue. If I am mistaken, please correct me, but I am not aware of any Sony communication which has found institutional issues with any build date. Again, if I am mistaken, link us.

Some of the early models reportedly had tuner issues, I think it would lose channel settings. That was early on, this tv hads been produced for what, over 2 years now.

I'm in the 34XBR960 club!

I picked this TV up at BB last Wednesday on my 42nd birthday.

It was a happy birthday indeed!

Getting it into the house by myself was a challenge though.

Has anyone else experienced some serious convergence issues with this model? I've got lots of curving at the corners, and up the middle of the screen. From what I understand my TV's technically in spec, but watching anything 4:3 or DVDs that still have a letter box (even when the TV's set to 16:9) -- the curves are very noticeable and distracting. I'm guessing this is an anomaly, but would love any other owner feedback.

Thanks!

Well, I have had my XBR960 for two weeks now and i thought I would chime in and add some thoughts to those of you who might be facing a similar situation.

I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3)

i purchased the set due in part to the great level of dark colors obtained, but to be honest I think this is only an advantage when viewing movies with the lights off. That presents a problem. I love watching movies with the lights off, but 34inches is not enough to enjoy the movie. Ok, so that leaves me with a great TV for sports and HD. Well, not exactly. When watching sports the picture color is nice, but it is not bright enough; therefore, I found myself switching to Vivid mode for sports. I also found some HD programing to be a little too dark as well. Keep in mind I am in a room with controlled lighting.

i know all of this is subjective, and I am not trying to downgrade this TV by any means (it is a great TV!!!). I am only stating my observations in the hopes of helping someone in the future. With the lights off and a movie on (HBO-HD), the picture is absolutely breathtaking. But for me it is just not enough picture.

So, for all of us who want this quality of a picture but are looking for something in the 42 inch range (like myself).....I have decided to go Plasma (Panasonic). The black levels on the Panasonic plasmas are very close to the level of Tube CRT. This is not me stating this, these are words from many experts. Also the price has dropped dramatically making them actually affordable.

If this TV was less expensive I think it would be a better deal, but a 42inch Panasonic plasma are within $1000 of this TV, and will probably close the gap even more by Christmas.

Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it. :rolleyes:

Nothing wrong with choosing the Panny plasma over the XBR960. The gamble is will the Panny retain its performance 2-3-5 years from now. The XBR960's picture quality should not degrade at all. And the parts costs for CRT are a fraction of LCD and Plasmas.

Ironically, you did a 180 and chose size over quality.

Has anyone else experienced some serious convergence issues with this model? I've got lots of curving at the corners, and up the middle of the screen. From what I understand my TV's technically in spec, but watching anything 4:3 or DVDs that still have a letter box (even when the TV's set to 16:9) -- the curves are very noticeable and distracting. I'm guessing this is an anomaly, but would love any other owner feedback.Assuming you're still within warranty, all out-of-the-box significant problems are best addressed by a Sony-sent factory technician to perform initial re-adjustments. This is a free service call and should be taken advantage of, as many convergence and curvature issues can only be addressed by placing small magnets on the back of the picture tube rather than by trying to cure things solely through tweaks in the service menu. The technician will likely do both... magnets as necessary, as well as service menu tweaks. This should get most, if not all, of your problems resolved, or at least much improved. You can then proceed on your own service menu tweaking and tuning project, trying to improve things even further.

I'd suggest strongly that you take advantage of this free factory service visit.

Now if the technician sent by Sony doesn't provide results you can live with, call Sony back and ask for a "second opinion". Insist they give you a list of local authorized service technicians in your area, and call one of them to come out. Make sure Sony has authorized this second visit so that it too is free to you. Typically, this type of "retail" technician will be willing to spend more time on your set and will not simply be satisfied to get it "within factory spec" or "as good as can be expected".

Hopefully, at the end of this Sony-provided service you will have a much improved picture. Then you can pursue your own tweaking through service menu items, and hopefully realize the true wonder of a properly set up XBR960.

I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3) Well of course it's not a fair comparison to discuss a 4:3 SD set with a 16x9 HD set, no matter what the size.

But there's no question sitting back 10 feet from a 34" 16x9 does not give a satisfying experience. In my case, I sit about 5-6 feet away from my tweaked-and-adjusted XBR960 in my bedroom (actually, I'm sitting on the carpet, looking slightly up at the XBR960 which is sitting on a low-boy credenza-height television table) and it's like looking through a window. When I "sit down" to watch something serious, the lights are low or out. Consequently my tweaks are based on Pro mode (not Vivid or anything else) and the viewing environment is consistent for my settings. And it's pure pleasure.

I've watched HDTV on a friend's Sharp 45" Aquos sitting far back, and while I appreciate that a larger screen is what it takes for certain viewing environments, I appreciate the "intimacy" and visual perfection of sitting 5 feet from a tweaked XBR960 CRT set, with Dolby Headphones to hear DD5.1 audio at the same time. And this viewing setup doesn't bother me, although it clearly might be unacceptable to others.

To each his own. Whatever is right for you and your particular needs.

I just visited Sony's website (sonystyle.com) today just to see what's new if anything. I noticed that the TV that I got months ago, and still love, the
KD-34xbr960, has received a new letter to its name. It's now called the
KD-34xbr960N. Does anyone know what this is all about? Why was the "N" added to the model number and what does it stand for?

CW

I just visited Sony's website (sonystyle.com) today just to see what's new if anything. I noticed that the TV that I got months ago, and still love, the
KD-34xbr960, has received a new letter to its name. It's now called the
KD-34xbr960N. Does anyone know what this is all about? Why was the "N" added to the model number and what does it stand for?

CW

Beats the heck out me. I've been searching around too! Some people have read it may be due to a different anti-glare coating (or none at all) on the TV. Maybe for Joe Consumer, it will sound a like new model, since there's no replacement for this TV this year... or probably ever. It's a great TV since it's related to the XBR960. But, I highly doubt if there is any value added to getting this one to replace a 960 -n.

I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.

CW

In my case, I sit about 5-6 feet away from my tweaked-and-adjusted XBR960 in my bedroom.

5 feet? Man that's close. When you close your eyes can you still see the picture on the inside of your eyelids? :D

5 feet? Man that's close. When you close your eyes can you still see the picture on the inside of your eyelids? :D

Do you forget that the XBR960 is only 34" widescreen? http://www.nvnews.net/vbulletin/images/smilies/eek2.gif

Ok, I've joined the club! I just got my XBR960 and thru reading this thread I've taken the group opinion and put the TV in pro mode with the monitor setting. Other than renting a Avia disk does anyone have opinions on next steps for configuring this baby?

I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component? So far my only concern is with the possible Macroblocking with the HDMI cable. Does anyone else have this setup? I would like to know before I spend more money on a cable.

Thanks,

David

Ok, I've joined the club! I just got my XBR960 and thru reading this thread I've taken the group opinion and put the TV in pro mode with the monitor setting. Other than renting a Avia disk does anyone have opinions on next steps for configuring this baby?In addition to starting off in Pro and Monitor, set SHARPNESS to "MIN" for inputs 4-7 and turn "Clear Edge VM" to OFF. This should be your starting point for tuning and tweaking.

If you've never watched HDTV without any edge enhancements (i.e. SHARPNESS = MIN) you should try it. It may look "soft" at first, but you'll quickly get used to it as "reality" and anything else will look obviously artificial.

If you have obvious convergence problems and curved/bowed lines reflecting geometry problems, or the picture just doesn't look really right coming out of the box (especially when you look at the setup patterns from Digital Video Essentials or Avia), don't hesitate to call Sony for a factory techician visit. It will be free to you in the early warranty period and getting factory-built problems eliminated by a service tech (e.g. with magnets) before you go batty trying unsuccessfully to eliminate them through the service menu) is the right way to get started.

Everybody's set is different, so it's inappropriate to prescribe specific service menu values. But you should probably look through the lengthy "Sony service codes" thread: Sony service menu techniques (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494) for advice and recommendations. Don't forget to download the extremely helpful PDF and XLS file attachments available in that thread (perhaps in zip form) which enumerate and describe each and every service menu item. These charts are absolutely invaluable.

Finally, after I thought I had done a pretty good job of tweaking my own XBR960, I decided to try one more suggested set of adjustments to address "red push" (a slight but noticeable reddish tint to things like skin tone) that seems to be a factory-installed bias in everybody's set. There are four settings in the 2170P-4 group on the service menu... RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB. They have default values of 8, 9, 9 and 6, respectively. I changed these to the chart-recommended values of 13, 15, 5, and 4, respectively, and I must say the difference was miraculous. Skin tone now became truly "human-like" and no longer "reddish". I recommend that you not overlook these four items as you progress through your inevitable tuning and tweaking efforts, although you may find your ultimate values to be slightly different.

Good luck, and welcome to the club.

I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component?I've tried component (from D-VHS, DVD, 6412 DVR), DVI-to-HDMI (from 6412 DVR and PC video card) and HDMI-to-HDMI (from D-VHS), and even 1394 firewire (from D-VHS and 6412 DVR). Honestly, I can't tell the difference using this CRT when comparing the same 480p, 720p or 1080 source content through multiple connection choices. Of course this assumes you've tuned and tweaked EACH of your HD inputs properly and equally, so that you've not biasing the comparison because of the particular input being used and some slight pre-existing differences in brightness, sharpness, color, contrast, etc.

It may be more obvious using fixed-pixel display devices, but for me there appears to be no difference when viewing a particular source content through any of the HD connection options when using the XBR960.

Now if your DVD player can upconvert from 480p to 720p or 1080i, and it only will do that through HDMI, then I'd say use HDMI rather than component from your DVD player to gain that advantage (remembering that the original DVD source is still only at 480p). Upconverted DVD looks very good, so you might as well take advantage of that option if you have it.

But otherwise, all other 720p/1080i HD sources look the same (to me) when viewed as delivered through component, HDMI, or firewire. Obviously the latter two methods reflect data digitally delivered to the set while the first method relies on the quality of the external device doing the D/A conversion for picture quality, but unless there's something wrong with the MPEG decoder in your external device I honestly don't think you'll see much observable difference for any given constant source content as a function of delivery method to the XBR960.

I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component? So far my only concern is with the possible Macroblocking with the HDMI cable. Does anyone else have this setup? I would like to know before I spend more money on a cable.

Thanks,

David

I have my 6412 connected via component and use HDMI for my Sony 70H DVD player. I am happy with the PQ on both. I went with the $18 3 ft. HDMI cable from monoprice.com and haven't had any problems.

Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it. :rolleyes:

Sorry the size of the screen was not to your liking, and best of luck with your new 42" Panny Plasma set. Please be very careful because Plasma is subject to burn-in from stationary sources such as black columns while watching 4x3, stock market tickers, station logos, etc.

Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it. :rolleyes:

Only if you can't adjust or negotiate viewing distance. At 10 feet, yeah, you needed a bigger screen.

Thanks for the heads up about Plasma burn in. I know that this is an issue, and some of the HD channels do have the side bars on constantly. CRT's however are not "burn in free", the risk is just not as high as with plasma. I honestly have not decided on which type of technology to get, but I do know that 42inch is my size.....the difference between 42inch and 34 inch at 10 feet is HUGE!

Any suggestions in this size range would be greatly appreciated. Every set has its own problems:

Plasma - Burn in, and reliability questions
Rear LCD - Screen Door, Bulb Replacement, Poor Blacks
DLP - Rainbow?
Flat LCD - Poor color contrast, expensive at 42inch

HELP....I want a beatiful picture, reliability, and 42inches for under $3,000 :(

Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED

Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED

That would not be a bad solution.

Is it possible to move your 960 a foot further off the wall to get a bigger picture? Don't also forget the 960 is 26 inches deep so if you hung a 42" inch Plasma on the wall it would be two feet further away than what you have now.

CRT technology is advancing fast but contrast limitation is still an issue. From what I read, the Sharp Aquos has the best contrast ratio compared to Plasma (not CRT) however the largest screen size available is 37". CRT is still rated as top quality.

I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.

CW

If this is true then I need to make plans to return my set and exchange it for the N version. I purchased mine on the 5th of this month so I'm still within the 30 days.

From what I read, the Sharp Aquos has the best contrast ratio compared to Plasma (not CRT) however the largest screen size available is 37".Sharp Aquos has had a 45" LCD in their product line for quite a while.

They recently added a 65" set to the family.

With 45" and larger, they have 1920x1080 resolution, and support 1080p.

Sharp Aquos has had a 45" LCD in their product line for quite a while.

They recently added a 65" set to the family.

With 45" and larger, they have 1920x1080 resolution, and support 1080p.

It's also quite expensive compared to the 960. If cost is not a factor, Sharp Aquos does seem to offer the best in LCD.

BTW, while burn-in cannot be dismissed as an issue with CRT, the chances of any problem occuring are very, very low. Most often it has to do with too high settings in contrast and brightness or keeping a video game on screen for hours on end (I one time left it on for 90 minutes and nothing happened).

Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED

This is pretty much my mindset on the matter. IF your viewing distance is negotiable, and you can get it down to at least 8 feet, the XBR960 is still the clear winner here for you and what you want.

Well, I have had my XBR960 for two weeks now and i thought I would chime in and add some thoughts to those of you who might be facing a similar situation.

I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3)

i purchased the set due in part to the great level of dark colors obtained, but to be honest I think this is only an advantage when viewing movies with the lights off. That presents a problem. I love watching movies with the lights off, but 34inches is not enough to enjoy the movie. Ok, so that leaves me with a great TV for sports and HD. Well, not exactly. When watching sports the picture color is nice, but it is not bright enough; therefore, I found myself switching to Vivid mode for sports. I also found some HD programing to be a little too dark as well. Keep in mind I am in a room with controlled lighting.

i know all of this is subjective, and I am not trying to downgrade this TV by any means (it is a great TV!!!). I am only stating my observations in the hopes of helping someone in the future. With the lights off and a movie on (HBO-HD), the picture is absolutely breathtaking. But for me it is just not enough picture.

So, for all of us who want this quality of a picture but are looking for something in the 42 inch range (like myself).....I have decided to go Plasma (Panasonic). The black levels on the Panasonic plasmas are very close to the level of Tube CRT. This is not me stating this, these are words from many experts. Also the price has dropped dramatically making them actually affordable.

If this TV was less expensive I think it would be a better deal, but a 42inch Panasonic plasma are within $1000 of this TV, and will probably close the gap even more by Christmas.

Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it. :rolleyes:
ttenrag, I am going through the same decision process you did. I love the picture on this TV, and am very partial to CRT. I am about to make the big step up to HDTV but there is so much to absorb. I have a nice 36" Sony Wega SD right now, and my viewing distance is optimally 10-12 feet. I want a TV that other people can view comfortably for a ball game, movie etc, so sitting within 5-7 feet and acting like its a big screen is not a practical option. I am afraid that if I get the 34" widescreen XBR, it will look small even compared to my 4:3 36 ", and I will be disappointed. I want that color, and those deep blacks, but I don't want to strain to see a picture. I have looked at those 42" Panasonic plasmas as well and they do look very nice. Obviously more expensive, but it sure looks more like a theater experience.

Anyone, guide me in this decision. Anyone out there have experience with both the Sony XBR and a plasma? How do SD sources look on each? What will SDef sources look best on as a rule, plasma,CRT or DLP? If I am sitting more than 8 feet away, will I be disappointed in the Sony?

Thanks DSperber. I had already had techs come out and tell me "that's as good as it gets"... but I've got another appointment set up this week. Hopefully round 2 will go better =)

The APC H15 (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=H15) that was already mentioned rates 1500 VA, and it's designed for AV equipment. It's pricey, though, even more so if you want battery backup (see the APC S15 (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=S15)).
:(

Justin or Bob,

I'm re-reading all the posts on this topic and I'm confused again. :o Is a battery required to get a VA rating? For example if I do a search on apc.com by VA rating I get the items that have batteries in them like the Back-UPS RS 1500VA and the APC S15. However the APC H15 is not returned in that search. Again I'm grateful for your help! I'm just trying to make an educated decision on how best to protect my TV.

Thanks,

David

ttenrag, I am going through the same decision process you did. I love the picture on this TV, and am very partial to CRT. I am about to make the big step up to HDTV but there is so much to absorb. I have a nice 36" Sony Wega SD right now, and my viewing distance is optimally 10-12 feet. I want a TV that other people can view comfortably for a ball game, movie etc, so sitting within 5-7 feet and acting like its a big screen is not a practical option. I am afraid that if I get the 34" widescreen XBR, it will look small even compared to my 4:3 36 ", and I will be disappointed. I want that color, and those deep blacks, but I don't want to strain to see a picture. I have looked at those 42" Panasonic plasmas as well and they do look very nice. Obviously more expensive, but it sure looks more like a theater experience.

Anyone, guide me in this decision. Anyone out there have experience with both the Sony XBR and a plasma? How do SD sources look on each? What will SDef sources look best on as a rule, plasma,CRT or DLP? If I am sitting more than 8 feet away, will I be disappointed in the Sony?
anyone out there?

BTW ttenrag, didn't you just post in the Plasma forum how great the Sony XBR is over the Panny plasma and how you won't trade size for quality? I'm confused.

Hey kids,

Does anyone here have the default Vivid mode settings for the XBR960, the amounts for Picture, Brightness, Color, etc

TIA

HonestAbe

anyone out there?

BTW ttenrag, didn't you just post in the Plasma forum how great the Sony XBR is over the Panny plasma and how you won't trade size for quality? I'm confused.


Yes, I did make that quote, but that was when I first recieved my XBR960. As stated above I have had a change of opinion. Oops, are we not supposed to change our minds. After having the 34 for a few weeks I decided it is not big enough. SO SUE ME.

I want to reply now to Squonk:

Being that you have not made your purchase yet, I can offer you my own 2 cents.
WAIT.

I think you would be somewhat disappointed going from a 36inch 4:3 to a 34" 16:9 unless all you plan to do is watch HD and DVD. I do believe plasma is the best choice in the 42inch range right now. I would look into the Phillips 42inch also. I think it is around $2300 with dual HDMI.

Personally, I think I would just hold on to your Wega for another year or two if you can, and then upgrade. I have actually decided to purchase a 32inch Sony Wega (standard) for about $500.....and then in a few years I will move this to the kids playroom and buy SED 50inch. :D

In addition to starting off in Pro and Monitor, set SHARPNESS to "MIN" for inputs 4-7 and turn "Clear Edge VM" to OFF. This should be your starting point for tuning and tweaking.

Finally, after I thought I had done a pretty good job of tweaking my own XBR960, I decided to try one more suggested set of adjustments to address "red push" (a slight but noticeable reddish tint to things like skin tone) that seems to be a factory-installed bias in everybody's set. There are four settings in the 2170P-4 group on the service menu... RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB. They have default values of 8, 9, 9 and 6, respectively. I changed these to the chart-recommended values of 13, 15, 5, and 4, respectively, and I must say the difference was miraculous. Skin tone now became truly "human-like" and no longer "reddish". I recommend that you not overlook these four items as you progress through your inevitable tuning and tweaking efforts, although you may find your ultimate values to be slightly different.


Thanks for your reply DSperber!!! I was able to dive into the service menu and change the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB settings. I should also give thanks to KenTech and others for their service menu instructions!! Since I don't have a calibration disk yet this is the only change I made in the service menu. However I could tell the difference the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB tweaks made.

David

whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?

whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?

Not exactly.

It guides you on how to calibrate your TV with step by step instructions and various test patterns.

Sweet ! Thanks for the help, sorry this was alittle off topic guys..

whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?In addition to an audio narration giving you directions and advice, what these DVD's provide (Digital Video Essentials and Avia) are a set of vital test patterns that enable you to tweak the relevant settings on your set.

These test patterns are obviously stationary, giving you all the time in the world to adjust things. And you can always come back to them again later, to be sure you haven't broken something previously done by a later adjustment to something else.

Remember that DVD's put out 480p, so that your set adjustments will be for that resolution... or at the very least for the particular input used to deliver the DVD's output to the set. If your set has adjustment memories by resolution and/or input, or perhaps applies some settings globally and others locally by resolution and/or input, your task gets more complicated. So just keep that all in mind when you're doing adjustments... test DVD or visually using some other source.

If your DVD player has DVI/HDMI output options, and can upconvert to 720p or 1080i, that adds more flexibility but also more complexity if your set has memories by resolution and/or input.

Another option for test pattern usage comes from your ability to connect your PC to your HDTV, if possible. If you have a DVI head on your video card, or have a DVI-to-component adapter option (e.g. with ATI Radeon 9800 Pro), you can buy a software product named DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition and put out test even more sophisticated patterns to your HDTV from your PC. And using video driver adjustments, you can send out at 480p or 720p or 1080i, thus allowing you to perform consistent adjustments for constant test patterns on your HDTV's various separate inputs or separate resolutions.

Anyway, that's what these test DVD's or PC-generated test patterns are for.

if I do a search on apc.com by VA rating I get the items that have batteries in them like the Back-UPS RS 1500VA and the APC S15. However the APC H15 is not returned in that search.I'm not the most knowledgeable person about these things, but the link (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=H15) I had in my last post goes to the H15 product page where it clearly says that the H15 is 1500VA (1.5 kVA). You'll find more specific info on the line if you go to the APC AV Products site (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/) rather than their general home page.

I'm not the most knowledgeable person about these things, but the link (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=H15) I had in my last post goes to the H15 product page where it clearly says that the H15 is 1500VA (1.5 kVA). You'll find more specific info on the line if you go to the APC AV Products site (http://www.apc.com/products/apcav/) rather than their general home page.

Thanks Justin! I saw that but I noticed a difference in the output rating data for units with a battery and those without. Those with a battery had the VA rating in the output data. Those without did not. This is what threw me but I've been reading a lot APC material and found out that indeed you are correct. Thanks again for your feedback!!!

David

Anyone know why there are 3 useless ilinks on the 960? I can understand having 1, such as for a DVHS (that few of us own) or DV camcorder hookup, but why 3 of these? Since I'm not aware of any DVD players/recorders that output video by firewire, what else can one do with 3 ilinks? Anyone actually using all 3 of these? If so, what are you using them for?Wouldn't the 960 be better if it had 2 HDMIs and only 1 or 2 ilinks instead?

Anyone know why there are 3 useless ilinks on the 960? Well, I have my 6412 DVR connected via firewire to my XBR960 (in the rear). I also have my JVC 40K connected to my JVC DT100U via firewire which is then connected to my XBR960 via firewire (in the rear).

This allows any of my three firewire-enabled source devices to be displayed on my TV (using iLink). It also allows HD digital content from my 6412 to be recorded onto either of my D-VHS VCR's. It also allows either D-VHS VCR to act as a source device for an HD digital copy onto the other D-VHS VCR (assuming the content is not copy-protected).

Although I don't have a digital camcorder, in theory that leaves the front firewire port for playback or recording/copying from a firewire-equipped digital camcorder to either of the D-VHS VCR's or playback on the XBR960.

Granted, since firewire devices are logically addressable by name, and the protocol calls for digital data to be "relayed" through intermediate devices which are not specified as the source or destination in a handshake, in theory I could have one single linear firewire chain stringing all of these together, so that in theory only one firewire port on the XBR960 would be needed... assuming you wanted to make the XBR960 the "one end of the chain".

But virtually all well-designed firewire devices have two firewire ports, thus allowing them to be either an end (to one leg/branch, or the whole chain) or an intermediate device (capable of relaying data through it)... for maximum flexibility to the user in designing the firewire network wiring configuration (which can have one or more branches but cannot have a loop).

Having a third firewire port on the front of the XBR960 is obviously a bonus, enabling a digital camcorder to conveniently connect into the network and have its data relayed on to either of the D-VHS VCR's if that's what you want to do, or have its data displayed on the XBR960.

I think this is terrifically foresighted of Sony. A properly designed firewire device (i.e. the XBR960) with at least the two firewire ports (on the rear) that should be the minimum and keeps wires in the back, and even providing a bonus port on the front for dynamic plugin of digital camcorders.

I commend them.

As to whether two HDMI inputs might have been better than one, well who can argue with that? Too bad HDMI cannot be daisy-chained like firewire, eh? Turns out one single firewire port can support digital playback on the XBR960 (with identical visual results as HDMI) of content from essentially an infinite number of firewire source devices... instead of requiring a fixed port for each device as HDMI does. And since you're probably not using the speakers in the XBR960 to playback DD5.1 anyway, who really needs HDMI to deliver both digital audio and digital video? It's really only the digital video that's important here, and firewire is perfectly acceptable for that purpose (although it, too, is also delivering digital audio to the XBR960)... with your digital audio likely going to your external sound system anyway.

And, I conclude, for my money there's NO visible difference in picture quality on the XBR960 when viewed through component, firewire, or HDMI... given an XBR960 that's been properly tweaked on all inputs. So I use a Zektor HDS4 component video switch for my source devices, with the 720p/1080i-capable devices going through the switch into INPUT6 and my 480p DVD player going directly into INPUT5.

In fact, I never use firewire for viewing (except for curiosity). I only use it when archiving from 6412 to D-VHS or when copying from D-VHS to D-VHS. Single-click switching input devices through the Zektor provides maximum convenience with minimal effort, while supporting more HD input sources via component than the XBR960 is designed to support (two).

One of my few reservations abou the 960 was the fact that it had only 1 HDMI port. Eventually I dismissed this, and planned on going CableCard when HD DVD or BluRay takes hold. Well... that plan is now wavering as I have become addicted to the DVR. Truely one of those things that you can't imagine how you got by without it (i.e., ATM cards or EZ Pass).

This (along with countless complaints about CableCard) could be an impending issue for me (though I wouldn't trade my 960 for anything). I was reading a Sound and Vision article at the car shop yesterday though. Apparently there are Digital Recievers coming that will accept HDMI input??? I wonder if this means that when I ultimately upgrade my Sony AV Reciever that I could have one that accepts HDMI cables from my DVR and HD DVD player and outputs to an HDMI that goes to the TV?

Greetings All. I just found this forum and picked up my 960n two nights ago. My buddy and I carted it up 4 flights of stairs and then spent 1/2 hour recovering, sweating, panting and staring at the 5 foot high shelf it had to go on. Somehow we got it up there with-out damage or hernia. Much asperin and Fullers ESB ensued. I'm waiting for the Adelpia guy to come to hook up my HD DVR. This will be my first HDTV experience.
I read that most of you prefer the Pro setting. Mine is very dark, and I had to adjust picture and contrast a lot. Is this normal, or should I wait to get the HD input before adjusting?

Thanks.

Scott, I felt the same at first, but take the settings mentioned above and tweak from there. Everyone's eye and room are different, but the consensus settings mentioned in this thread worked for me. Congrats on the new set (and avoidance of hernias! :p ).

[QUOTE=DSperber]

And, I conclude, for my money there's NO visible difference in picture quality on the XBR960 when viewed through component, firewire, or HDMI...

Thanks for the response DSPerber. As far as the picture quality difference, I have to agree with you having tried all 3 hookups myself. I have an old Sony Digital non HD STB, which I hooked up to iLink, just to see what I would get, and I was amazed I was able to get HD channels thru ilink even though this was a non HD STB. I have to agree the picture quaility was the same as HDMI/Component.

Anyway, it sounds like there are some great benefits with 3 ilinks, at least in your case with the DVHS. It just seems like there could be so many more uses with iLink if other devices such as DVD players could output video and not just audio through iLink. Instead, the manufactures are pushing HDMI. I guess it's a copyright thing.

Rmutz

Greetings All. I just found this forum and picked up my 960n two nights ago. My buddy and I carted it up 4 flights of stairs and then spent 1/2 hour recovering, sweating, panting and staring at the 5 foot high shelf it had to go on. Somehow we got it up there with-out damage or hernia. Much asperin and Fullers ESB ensued. I'm waiting for the Adelpia guy to come to hook up my HD DVR. This will be my first HDTV experience.
I read that most of you prefer the Pro setting. Mine is very dark, and I had to adjust picture and contrast a lot. Is this normal, or should I wait to get the HD input before adjusting?

Thanks.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you pick up the "N" model from?

I called Sonystyle yesterday and they claimed that it wouldn't be available in the retail stores for another 30 days or so but that it could be ordered through them. Perhaps they were fibbing so that I would go ahead and order on the site. Anyhow, I need to take back my 960 and trade it for the 960N before the 30 days is up so knowing what part of the country you're in would help. As of right now it looks like I'll have to take it back and suffer XBR withdrawal while I wait for the "N" model to arrive locally.

Hi-Q Audio Video Systems in Thousand Oaks, CA is where I got mine. 805 374-2771
Martin is the owner

Thanks for the quick reply Scott.

Anyway, it sounds like there are some great benefits with 3 ilinks, at least in your case with the DVHS. It just seems like there could be so many more uses with iLink if other devices such as DVD players could output video and not just audio through iLink. Instead, the manufactures are pushing HDMI. I guess it's a copyright thing. Well, the real advantage of firewire connections is that the digital (MPEG2 today) compressed data can be sent all around through the network (assuming 5C-compliant devices), for copying, recording and playback (subject to copy protection rules). That's what allows us D-VHS lovers to build HD tape libraries of what we want, and is something that I can't imagine not having. I am unstoppingly thankful that they finally worked this out (with 5C aggreements) so that my old non-5C Panny combo has been replaced by a 5C-acceptable pair of JVC D-VHS VCRs so that I can continue to make HD tapes now as I used to do in the old Dish 5000/modulator days.

However the downside of firewire is that it is just that... a conduit for pure digital data, sent from the source to the destination. No touching or tampering along the way, but also not available for insertion of anything additional from the outside. And that means you can't add Guide data or other Menu graphics into the firewire data stream. It's just pure content. I know this is terrific from the perspective of archiving/copying (since you just do not run the risk of ruining a copy by unwittingly overlaying unintended graphics accidentally), but it also has the obvious disadvantage of requiring that you have at least one other connection method from every source device to the XBR960 so that you can look at Guide, Menu, MyDVR lists, etc.

So since you must also go either component or HDMI in order for the source/delivery devices to be able to overlay graphics onto the content data stream (which, by the way, has no impact whatsoever on the pure data firewire stream which might be going from DVR to your D-VHS at that moment) which one you pick is up to you. The number and type of HD source devices you have clearly will determine which you use, but just remember that the compressed-data path (i.e. firewire) does not support graphics overlayed onto it. Only the uncompressed-data paths (component, DVI/HDMI) can have anything additional impressed onto it from the source device.

I happen to have picked component for my setup because of the Zektor switch conveniences (which also allows me to switch digital audio), after experimentally discovering that visually I saw no difference between component and HDMI and firewire, for the same content (after I had completing tweaking the service menu for all inputs). I use INPUT6 for the Zektor (and all of its four 720p/1080i component inputs). I use INPUT5 for my 480p DVD component input.

And as I said earlier, I simply never watch anything via firewire because I can't view onscreen graphics (e.g. DVR controls or time values, VCR controls or time values, etc.) while doing so. I have to go back to component anyway. So why not just stay there permanently since visually it's identical? I do.

This is not to say fixed-pixel displays and HDMI give better results than component... for them. But for the XBR960 I don't think there's much use for HDMI yet.

Now, when HD-DVD and Blu-ray come out, well then we'll be thankful we still have a "spare" (unused so far, for me) HDMI input available.

I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.

CW
For anyone interested, you can remove the anti-glare material from KD-34XBR960 models easily for increased light output from your tube. I accidentally scratched mine a while back, tried to buff it out, but was unable to get the edges nicely. So I took the back and front fascia off of the TV and just peeled off the plastic-with-adhesive-backing anti-glare coating off of the tube like it was scotch tape. I use my TV in a dark room so I have no need for the anti-glare and the increased light output is a nice change. It used to be like I was looking through sunglasses with it left on the TV.

Also, since my model was manufactured in Nov. 2004 and is a "KD-34XBR960" model, what is the difference between an adhesive-backed anti-glare "filter" and the "coating" on the tube of the "N" models (if that's true)? The old filter is applied directly to the tube and a "coating" is applied directly to the tube. I assume the representative from Sony was talking about dust getting underneath the plastic coating during manufacture...not after. So there's no need to worry about warranty issues with dust. It just can't happen after you purchase the TV.

Does anyone know from experience if using the HDMI vs using component running hdtv via a cable box actually makes a difference in picture quality?

Does anyone know from experience if using the HDMI vs using component running hdtv via a cable box actually makes a difference in picture quality?

Minimal, but not earth shattering by any means.

Personally, I'm letting my DVD player have the HDMI slot and letting the HD satellite box run off of component video.

Minimal, but not earth shattering by any means.

Personally, I'm letting my DVD player have the HDMI slot and letting the HD satellite box run off of component video.

Running of an up conversion DVD player? Do you feel like there is any significant boost in performance using one? If so, which one?

Also, kind of off topic (but i couldn't find a topic anywhere else), are power regulators such as the ones made by panamax, worth anything? Do they even work, and will you notice any type of audio or video enhancement in clarity?

Thanks again guys.

Running of an up conversion DVD player? Do you feel like there is any significant boost in performance using one? If so, which one?

Yeah, an upconverting player. In my case, my player only converts over digital connections, so that made the decision for me, so to speak. ;)

Most upconverting players don't do it over componenent video anymore.

Same answer as before: You get a bit of a refinement, but not an earth shattering difference. You may want to browse the DVD player forum for more on this.



Also, kind of off topic (but i couldn't find a topic anywhere else), are power regulators such as the ones made by panamax, worth anything? Do they even work, and will you notice any type of audio or video enhancement in clarity?

Thanks again guys.

Yes, they're worth it for protecting your gear, firs t and foremost.

Audio and video improvement? Hard to say, really. Probably single digit percentile, 10 percent, give or take, at most. It depends on which of these devices you get, your gear, and tons of other variables. YMMV. :)

The WSR review of my Belkin PF60 stated that they felt they saw something between a 10-15 percent overall "improvement", but again, YMMV. ;)

An update on my ghosting, smearing problem on my KD-34XBR960...

Today, I received a brand new KD-34XBR960N (SN: 4000333, October 2005). It came from SONY's Pittsburgh Logistics Center, 1108 Old Route 119, Mt. Pleasant, PA 15666.

I had the movers set it on the stand. I hooked it up and put in STAR WARS: The Empire Strikes Back. I jumped to my 3 scenes where I saw the smearing on my old set. I crossed my fingers.... nada same problem again.... I'm pissed, annoyed, angry, I refused the swap, they put my old TV back on the stand, packed up the new TV and left. I called up my SONY rep, got him on the phone to let him know that I refused the new TV, he apologized profusely, and that he'll be contacting the procurement department, to get me another set.

In my head, I'm thinking listen... send me ten sets so I can evaluate everything single one of them, or return me the full refund ($2200+) and I'll go to both CCs and the BB in my area and check out each XBR960/N they have.

I'll reiterate... that this smearing problem takes place on all inputs, (HD, SD, DVD) multiple DVDs, etc. So it's not specific to any one DVD movie, or player... I notice it happening all over the place.

A quick way to check if you have this problem is to put in a DVD go to the credits of the movie, bump it to 2x speed so the credits go a little faster. If you see the smearing as the names move up the screen you have the same problem as me and Brad S.

My SONY rep told me that he'll give me a call tomorrow with an update, and tomorrow night I'll update this forum!

One day... I'll get my perfect XBR960/N, it just wasn't today! :(

Since my brain started noticing the "trailing", I also have spotted it in some of the space scenes when I was watching the Battlestar Galactica season 1 dvds. Sometimes when a bright engine flame moves quickly across the screen, you'll see the trailing afterimage - it looks kinda like a dark blue color maybe.

But fast moving white on black credits remain the easiest way to see it.

I'm thinking at this point it may be on all 960s, perhaps a side effect of the super-fine pitch phosphors? The effect is very "analog" looking, and occurs on all inputs no matter how you adjust things, so I'm doubting it's due to any digital processing going on inside the set.

Since my brain started noticing the "trailing", I also have spotted it in some of the space scenes when I was watching the Battlestar Galactica season 1 dvds. Sometimes when a bright engine flame moves quickly across the screen, you'll see the trailing afterimage - it looks kinda like a dark blue color maybe.

But fast moving white on black credits remain the easiest way to see it.

I'm thinking at this point it may be on all 960s, perhaps a side effect of the super-fine pitch phosphors? The effect is very "analog" looking, and occurs on all inputs no matter how you adjust things, so I'm doubting it's due to any digital processing going on inside the set.

It's starting to trouble me a little. I really hope it's not inherent to the set. But you are absolutely right, you can see this defect in any type of movie or input even after adjusting. (Doesn't really matter.) I've tried for about an hour to capture a picture when it's happening, but the flash bounces off of the screen messing up the shot.

I've had all the video processing boards swapped for new ones, no effect.

I've seen it in Ronin, Gladiator, The Last Samurai, Star Wars, Braveheart, The Matrix, Black Hawk Down, multiple TV shows HD, SD, analog, etc. etc.

Also when you slow motion the DVD, no such defect occurs. Obviously it's not part of the film. I think all of us here would appreciate if all owners of the XBR960 on this forum check their set out for this defect, as mr2828 is alluding it maybe more common than previously thought. Btw. between Brad S. and myself it makes 4 sets with this defect. Bad coincidence, I hope so. :o

I think all of us here would appreciate if all owners of the XBR960 on this forum check their set out for this defect, as mr2828 is alluding it maybe more common than previously thought. Btw. between Brad S. and myself it makes 4 sets with this defect. Bad coincidence, I hope so. :o

I would imagine, based on your repair efforts, that it is inherent in the set. I do not see the effect in places you have mentioned (scrolling text at the start of Star Wars or the Falcon scene mentioned above. I have at times noticed it on the brilliant white NY logo of the pitchers Yankaee cap against the navy blue cap background. Seems I noticed this with slower motion like a Mariano close up and a night game with strong overhead light. There have been other times where I have looked for the smae thing and seen nothing though, so I dismissed it as source.

I'm actually having some people over to watch Revenge of the Sith tonight. Should be a good sample (recent digi production with plenty of ships, lasers, etc.). So I'll keep an eye out and actually look for something.

Yes, I did make that quote, but that was when I first recieved my XBR960. As stated above I have had a change of opinion. Oops, are we not supposed to change our minds. After having the 34 for a few weeks I decided it is not big enough. SO SUE ME.

I want to reply now to Squonk:

Being that you have not made your purchase yet, I can offer you my own 2 cents.
WAIT.

I think you would be somewhat disappointed going from a 36inch 4:3 to a 34" 16:9 unless all you plan to do is watch HD and DVD. I do believe plasma is the best choice in the 42inch range right now. I would look into the Phillips 42inch also. I think it is around $2300 with dual HDMI.

Personally, I think I would just hold on to your Wega for another year or two if you can, and then upgrade.

I have actually decided to purchase a 32inch Sony Wega (standard) for about $500.....and then in a few years I will move this to the kids playroom and buy SED 50inch. :D


Just this post alone should be enough for most people, I hope, to never take your advice on anything. Who in their right minds would ever trade in something like an XBR960 in favor of some $500 analog set while arguing out of the other side of their mouth that they want something BIGGER and they want MORE HD? It couldn't make LESS sense.

To say nothing about this IQ point killing nightmare: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=596008

In any event, I thought this was more than applicable to the situation:



nothru22's old, yet classic sig:

Ijustboughtcrapitis- the disease that makes a person delude themself into believing the crap they just bought is the best because they spent too much on it.

I would imagine, based on your repair efforts, that it is inherent in the set. I do not see the effect in places you have mentioned (scrolling text at the start of Star Wars or the Falcon scene mentioned above. I have at times noticed it on the brilliant white NY logo of the pitchers Yankaee cap against the navy blue cap background. Seems I noticed this with slower motion like a Mariano close up and a night game with strong overhead light. There have been other times where I have looked for the smae thing and seen nothing though, so I dismissed it as source.

I'm actually having some people over to watch Revenge of the Sith tonight. Should be a good sample (recent digi production with plenty of ships, lasers, etc.). So I'll keep an eye out and actually look for something.

I meant the credits at the end of a movie... any movie. (White text moving up on a black screen @ 2x, look for any possible smearing.) Also, to clear up any possible confusion, my current (Sept. 2004 build date) XBR960 has this problem, also the brand spanking new (Oct. 2005) XBR960N has the same problem... Two sets... I must be one of the most unluckiest suckers ever!!! :o I really hope that I've just have some rotten luck since, everything else about the TV is wonderful! Well my SONY guy didn't call me today, ergo, he'll be getting a call from me tomorrow! The saga continues.... :p

I meant the credits at the end of a movie... any movie. (White text moving up on a black screen @ 2x, look for any possible smearing.) Also, to clear up any possible confusion, my current (Sept. 2004 build date) XBR960 has this problem, also the brand spanking new (Oct. 2005) XBR960N has the same problem... Two sets... I must be one of the most unluckiest suckers ever!!! :o I really hope that I've just have some rotten luck since, everything else about the TV is wonderful! Well my SONY guy didn't call me today, ergo, he'll be getting a call from me tomorrow! The saga continues.... :p

Yeah, I've been following you on this for a while. I sure hope things work out for you soon! :)

Since liquidneba has given us all an update, and we've been discussing this issue privately, I just wanted to drop in with a quick update on my end. At the moment I am not in communication with Sony after they stonewalled me last time, but I have now seen a total of four xbr960 or the sister xs model televisions with this problem (three xbrs, one xs).