Well, according to the earlier post, ErikDaRed should know the details... having apparently programmed the Harmony as you are similarly trying to do.


Actually I found a .ccf file for a Sony Wega on RemoteCentral that had the input codes so i was able to import those - and this is a Philips iPronto - not a Harmony. I did not realize I was forced to be a graphics designer to set this up :(

Anyway, the real last remaining question for you Harmony users (Again if I had one, I would not be asking this question :D ) does the Harmony have discrete codes for the ANT toggle (above the #2) that toggles between cable input on the 960 and the OTA input on the 960?

That's the last remaining piece of the puzzle for the TV....and I do not know if discrete codes exist for this - as they do for the inputs.

but you can't exploit the 1080i from bluray with a 970

This is from the specs of the 970:

Specifications
Video
XDS (Extended Data Service): (Info Banner): Yes
Program Palette™ Presets : Vivid, Standard, Movie, Pro
Dynamic Focus™ Circuitry : Yes
Magnetic Quadra Pole : Yes
Tuner: NTSC, ATSC, 8VSB with Clear QAM
Vertical Center : Yes
Vertical Size : Yes
Screen or Display Technology: Trinitron® Technology
Video Signal System: ATSC and NTSC
Auto White Balance: Yes
Dynamic Picture™ Processor Circuitry: Yes
Trinitone® Color Temperature: Yes
Vertical Compression: Yes
Comb Filter: 3D Digital Comb Filter
Vertical Aperture Compensation: Yes
Screen Modes (16:9: Normal/Full/Zoom/Wide Zoom
ClearEdge VM™ Technology: Yes
DRC® MultiFunction Circuitry
Vertical Correction: Yes
Color System: NTSC

Audio
Speakers (Total): 2
Dolby® Digital: Yes
Audio Power Output: 20W Total (10W x 2)
Tone Control(s): Treble and Bass
Speaker Type: 2-Way Speaker System
Steady Sound® Automatic Volume Control: Yes (with BBE)

General
Aspect Ratio: 16:9
Screen Size: 34"1
Tilt Correction: Yes

Convenience
Auto SAP: Yes
Channel Fix: Yes
Closed Caption (CC): Yes
Video Label: Yes
ID1 Detection: Yes
Channel Label: Yes
Channel Skip/Add: Yes
Channel Jump: Yes
Favorite Channel: Yes
Speed Surf™ Channel Selection: Yes
Auto Channel Programming: Yes
Multiple Language Display: English; Spanish; French
Programmable Timer: 2 Event
Sleep Timer: 15, 30, 45, 60, 90, Off
Caption Vision: Yes
Clock: Yes
Parental Control (V-Chip): Yes

Inputs and Outputs
Analog Audio Input(s): 3 (1 Front/2 Rear)
Component Video (Y/Pb/Pr ) Input(s): 2 (Rear) 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i***

So it does show at 1080i same as the 960.

I agree, the 34" 955 would be a better choice if they are still available. :)

but you can't exploit the 1080i from bluray with a 970


Sure ya can. A true HD source will look good on any of these TV's. Yes, the XS series and XBR960 would be the best choices, but the rebadged HS420 that the XBR970 is certainly will do a very respectable job nonetheless.

Actually I found a .ccf file for a Sony Wega on RemoteCentral...I'ld love the link to the .ccf, please. :)

I would like to see a Poll on how many people that actually own this set have had to have it serviced. After reading the Cnet reviews it looks like the QC on the 960 is pretty bad.

Mine is being picked up for the fourth repair on Tuesday. If it breaks again, Sony can have it back. At that point I don't know what to get. It will be between a 34" 955 or a 970. If I could get Sony to refund my money, I would end up buying the 34" Panasonic. This has been a most frustrating purchase.

A very happy 960N owner here. No problems out of the ordinary. I DO want to learn how to make the RGB convergence better (where the white text has some blue or red blooming in one section of the screen). So Im reading the Service Menu thread here at AVS forums.

But other than that, its great and looks better than almost all of those flat panels.

-Christopher

Well they picked up the 960N up to take it into the shop for what I hope is it's final repair. I was not home at the time. My wife told me the two guys that came to pick it up had to set it down 3 times. I warned them it was heavy, just glad it was not me. LOL

I hope this is the end my 960N overheat "4" blink issue. Will keep you up to date when they figure out what the problem was and it's back in one piece.

I'ld love the link to the .ccf, please. :)

You need a .ccf or an .icf?

The ccf is here. (http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=pronto&db=devices&br=nec&dv=projector&md=xgseries&kw=nec&st=&ar=&dt=&so=&pg=2&file=ccf_templates/complete_system/guy-kuo_ccf.zip)

I found an .icf that had Input 4-7 from a Grand Wega. I then found this .ccf from Guy who has several Sonys and it had all 7 inputs for the Sony - though if you need a color or .icf, this wont be that pretty.

Again, I just cut the sony section out and linked my buttons to these codes in the script.

Now, PLEASE, someone tell me if they have a discrete code for switching between cable input and OTA antenna inpute :D

I just want to know if it exists at this point.

I then found this .ccf from Guy who has several Sonys and it had all 7 inputs for the Sony Thanks for the tip.

The page description only lists Sony codes as being for a projector and a DVD player, but perhaps there are other Sony-specific codes buried inside.

Thanks for the tip.

The page description only lists Sony codes as being for a projector and a DVD player, but perhaps there are other Sony-specific codes buried inside.

The codes work for this Sony and has the discrete inputs. The Sony Wega was in the icf file and I guess unless you have an iPronto, that will not help you.

As I didn't have the projector or the Wega, I didn't pay exacting attention to which was in which ccf file and which was in the icf.

I just knew they worked for this unit - thus they should all work between the KV-34XBR960, the Wega and the the Projector. Thus, if you have the 960 or the Wega, that ccf file should work for both.

For obvious reasons, the .icf file is much prettier than that .ccf file.

The .ccf file has 4 pages. The page with inputs is this one:

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/8500/sonyccf6dj.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

You will notice Input buttons for 1 through 6. Again, all 4 pages of this works with the 960. I am sure another one of the many Sony .ccf would have the input 7 code that could be linked to or merged.

The Grand Wega has the same codes and the .icf file looks like this:

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/1996/sonyicf8fn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Upon experimenting, I found that the 4 inputs he has listed are input 4 -7 on the 960. Input 7 is the DirectvHD button. From the top, its Input 5, 7, 6, 4. I simply moved them around and added more inputs (for 1-4) linking them to the appropiate code in the above .ccf.

Thus in the very first rough layout of the screen with all 7 Inputs and still waiting on the last pieces to the puzzle before I do the final arranging, it ends up like this:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/561/sony9602es.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Obviously I will get rid of the memory stick button and add the ilink etc, before re-arranging and finalizing it.

Well they picked up the 960N up to take it into the shop for what I hope is it's final repair. I was not home at the time. My wife told me the two guys that came to pick it up had to set it down 3 times. I warned them it was heavy, just glad it was not me. LOL

I hope this is the end my 960N overheat "4" blink issue. Will keep you up to date when they figure out what the problem was and it's back in one piece.

Got my XBR960N today in less than twenty four hours. That's the fastest service yet. The tech told me it had a stripped out heatsink for the 9Volt regulator on the AZ board. He replaced the heatsink and also replaced the regulator. Won't know for sure till temp gets back in the 90s. I do feel pretty confident it's been fixed.
I'm just happy my 960 is back and so far working great. :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

This time place a ring of garlic around it

Before I start a new thread asking about this I'll ask here.
I found an open box 960 and have basically convinced myself to buy it, I haven't purchased it yet though. The issue I see is it doesn't have a remote or booklet. The person said he'd give me one of the remotes to another sony tv, most likely a 970, since they all tend to work with sony tv's. I can test that out at the store before I buy it, but I know the 960 has a lot of extra stuff that the 970 has no access to. What I want to know is if I can get the 960 remote somehow, and if no, what am I missing out on. The main reason I want the set is the picture quality and not the extras. I've had tv's with Picture in Picture before and I never used it, and I doubt I'll use the spot for the memory stick though you never know.
Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.
I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?
Thanks for your help.

Sony parts sells the remote. $34 . 1-800-488-SONY (7669). ebay too same price - RM-Y201
yes HDMI input.
Date of manufacture is stamped on the back.

Sorry, about my long question I just found this in the sony Store.
147882111 REMOTE COMMANDER RM-Y201 when I looked at 960 stuff. Oh, and sorry to whoever private messaged me, I had my pop up blocker on and it wouldn't let me accept. I'll try researching the remote more before I ask any more questions that I could answer with a five minute web search.

Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.
I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?
Thanks for your help.

I own a XBR960 with a date of September 2005, although I purchased it in January of 2006.

The manual can be located at http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=KD34XBR960

Yes, HDMI on both models XBR960 and XBR960N

The PM was from me, you can still get private messages with a pop up blocker, just don't click the popup little window, click the direct link for Messages on the forum page at top.

Before I start a new thread asking about this I'll ask here.
I found an open box 960 and have basically convinced myself to buy it, I haven't purchased it yet though. The issue I see is it doesn't have a remote or booklet. The person said he'd give me one of the remotes to another sony tv, most likely a 970, since they all tend to work with sony tv's. I can test that out at the store before I buy it, but I know the 960 has a lot of extra stuff that the 970 has no access to. What I want to know is if I can get the 960 remote somehow, and if no, what am I missing out on. The main reason I want the set is the picture quality and not the extras. I've had tv's with Picture in Picture before and I never used it, and I doubt I'll use the spot for the memory stick though you never know.
Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.
I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?
Thanks for your help.

Most of the questions have been answered already... I bought my openbox 960 from Magnolia, and they ordered a new remote for me at no cost since the one for it was missing. Best Buy had an openbox 960, too, and said if I bought their extended warranty, I could get a free remote through that.

Also, Magnolia had the Sony stand for the 960 and I got it for free. The 960 is REALLY HEAVY, and you'll want a pretty decent stand to keep it safely supported.

I think the "N" model is newer and has the antiglare coating removed (per Chorgey's correction). I'm not sure if the electronics have been changed. Mine is a non-N, and is Feb. 05.

I have my 960 hooked to my dvd player through the HDMI port and it's a really nice picture.

If you can, make sure to check the picture on it to verify that there are no problems.

Larry

I think the "N" model is newer and has an antiglare coating of some sort on the tube. Mine is a non-N, and is Feb. 05.

Larry

Actually, the "N" model had the antiglare coating removed and yes, it is the newer model.

Actually, the "N" model had the antiglare coating removed and yes, it is the newer model.

Footnote: As a matter of personal preference, some people prefer the coating, others do not, but not a night and day difference to be concerned about it any respect.

Man, everyone here is so helpful. I didn't even get snapped at when I asked a question easily answered by googling for it. Thanks everyone. I've had to return to hdtv's so far because of issues displaying hd pictures, what are the odds, but it wasn't user error. So i before I lug another 200lb tv up three flights of stairs I'm going to check out the picture really well. It wasn't hooked up to an hd signal, but I talked with the salesman and he's cool with me bringing in my 360 to hook up to it.

I have two questions for you guys

1.) Anyone know where i can get a good stand for these 200 lbs crt t.v's? Those sony stands are way too expensive. How about making a home made stand? Can anyone give me advise on the right supplies to build one?

2.) My local bestbuy is having a clearence sale on the xbr960. Would you guys purchase the open box or a new one? How good is best buy service plan? If this t.v fails or has problems in the future will they fix the problem?

How is buying a t.v from an online retailer? Are they trustworthy? Do these online retailers also carry service plans? If the t.v fails or has problems in the future who will fix the t.v?

Well, i am deciding between these........Sony 34xbr960, Sony 34xs955, Sony 30xs955, Sony 30hs420, Sony 32hs420 and if all else fails i am just going to get a brand new Samsung Slimfit 3082h.

Hi, jehnubis,
Where are you? I got mine from Magnolia in Torrance, CA, and they threw in the Sony stand AND replaced the missing remote all for the same price that Best Buy had it for. I didn't like the gray plastic stand, but I veneered it, painted the base, and it looks ok, I think.

I've been a woodworker for a few years and I'd be hesitant to build a stand for these beasties. Even the Sony stand isn't too strong -- you can't really move the thing once it's on the stand because the stand won't take pulling and shoving. Of course, I loaded it down with over 100 lbs of receiver, dvd player, sat receiver and surge protector, so that's like 320 plus lbs of stuff on that plastic and mdf stand. I think it's stable, but not really movable.

I'd hate to think of what one of these would look like after shipping. As far as I can tell, there really aren't any new ones out there and that means they'd have to pack it in something other than the original box. Ick...

If you go with a 960 and it works, it's great. I suggest that you check it before you buy -- which you can't do through the internet. I got a 4 yr service plan through Magnolia ($150), so I think I'm set for a while.

Good luck!
Larry

I'd avoid the Samsumg Slimfit. such a disappointment after viewing one of the Sony Fine Pitch tubes, I have a 960. I see 960s at a few local stores as clearance items. I ordered mine online a year ago and have no regrets.

The newest SlimFit model, the 3082, is getting much, much better reviews than the earlier models. There's no question that the 960 is a fine tv, but the Sony's w/o the SFP tube, and the other makes (e.g. Samsung) all look incredible as well.

I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc. I know that theres risks and that you can check the service menu to see if there are any problems with the set. I called the parts dept. at Sony to ask if you are able to buy a picture tube replacement and they said you could for close to $900. I also asked the Sony rep. how long they would sell the replacement and she didn't know. I wonder if the tube replacement would be available 5 to 8 years from now and not cost twice as much down the line. I know that the floor model could eventually give out so I would get a 5 year warranty through tweeter. If I were to buy the thing and it gives out and they try to give me that 970 or a $900 TV it won't be pretty. Some other guy said in a thread that the set would have degraded in picture quality from being on so long like the geometry or something. I refuse to buy the 970 because its just not the same without SFP. Its just common since I don't need proof. People say that theres a slight difference which is enough for me to say nope. The people that say theres no difference are just gullible. Those Sony guys done messed with the set man! Whats up with that? Imposter!

I've always wanted a 960 since way back in the day when it was the 910 and now I can afford the floor model but is it worth it. I think it might be but I'm just not sure.

I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc. I know that theres risks and that you can check the service menu to see if there are any problems with the set. I called the parts dept. at Sony to ask if you are able to buy a picture tube replacement and they said you could for close to $900. I also asked the Sony rep. how long they would sell the replacement and she didn't know. I wonder if the tube replacement would be available 5 to 8 years from now and not cost twice as much down the line. I know that the floor model could eventually give out so I would get a 5 year warranty through tweeter. If I were to buy the thing and it gives out and they try to give me that 970 or a $900 TV it won't be pretty. Some other guy said in a thread that the set would have degraded in picture quality from being on so long like the geometry or something. I refuse to buy the 970 because its just not the same without SFP. Its just common since I don't need proof. People say that theres a slight difference which is enough for me to say nope. The people that say theres no difference are just gullible. Those Sony guys done messed with the set man! Whats up with that? Imposter!

I've always wanted a 960 since way back in the day when it was the 910 and now I can afford the floor model but is it worth it. I think it might be but I'm just not sure.

Well I bought a 960 floor model about 2 weeks ago and I absolutely love it, the only thing wrong with it is a deep stratch on the front of the unit but it's hardly noticeable unless you look close up, the image quality is outstanding, I'm still trying to figure out how to get the dvd's to look better and I guess I'll have to get an upconvert player for that.

I have two questions for you guys

1.) Anyone know where i can get a good stand for these 200 lbs crt t.v's? Those sony stands are way too expensive. How about making a home made stand? Can anyone give me advise on the right supplies to build one?



Actually I'm very glad to say that I went to Walmart of all places and bought the HomeTrends (Powell 988-954) stand that has 2 black shelves and a glass center shelf with silver legs and it fits the tv perfectly and it was only $79.99, really the best deal on a stand I have seen and it holds it really well.

Well, i am deciding between these........Sony 34xbr960, Sony 34xs955, Sony 30xs955, Sony 30hs420, Sony 32hs420 and if all else fails i am just going to get a brand new Samsung Slimfit 3082h.

I have the 960 and the 30xs955 and am very happy with both.

I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc........end

I have had my 960 since August 2004. Actually, had it replaced in December 2004.

It has been on 24/7 and literally never is turned off.

I am 1000% sure it has been on 2x as long as any floor models.

So what?

Quite frankly, especially as replacements would be hard to find, I would take the floor model over the NIB any day of the week. At least you can see what is wrong with the geometry of the TV before it comes out in the box and if it's really bad, take a pass.

Of course, I was the only one 2 years ago with the 910 and early 960s telling people to quit sending them back and let a tech try and set up the geometry right in your viewing room - while others wanted them perfect out of the box. Guess what, it didn't happen.

So, I would take the Showroom set that can be examined over a NIB especially at this stage in its life cycle any day of the week. Besides, the apeture grill failure this set is known for isnt going to happen out of the box but after some use. You might as well have it broken in at Best Buy.

Again, if its scratched or has burn in, then its a different story. But in most cases, especially Tweeter, they went out of their way to find one with proper geometry for display.

The 970 if properly set up is not that bad. It would be a close second choice if the 960 was no longer available. IMO the picture difference between the two sets would be less noticible at 7-10 feet viewing distance. It really is not a bad set, just less features for less $$$.

I think a better second choice would be the 34XS955, that is, if you can still find one. IIRC, it is virtually identical to the 960 except for the independant memory??? Then there is the 36" XS955, which is still available new, but is a 4:3 screen.

[QUOTE=mku917]


mku:
for what it's worth, i bought a best buy floor model back in early march. it has had no problems, even though it tends to remain on most of the time (much as it did in the best buy showroom). technology suggests that tube TVs are less apt to suffer PQ woes as a result of extended viewing time (as plasmas and LCDs tend to do). i usually leave mine on, without a picture, so it doesn't suffer through the trauma of 3 or 4 on-offs each day (the two seconds of "turning on" stress is harder on the components than hours of continuous viewing, much like starting versus driving a car).

though i have no extended warranty beyond the two years sony offers you might want to consider getting one since a lot of 960 owners have had trouble with their units (and it's not like you can pick it up and carry it into the nearest sony repair center). i would venture to guess that the fact that the unit has stood the test of (at least some) time on a showroom floor that it's actually a good sign for the particular unit; in other words, the fact that it's been continously tested under operating conditions is more a plus than a minus because it has NOT demonstrated the problems other sets have shown. for what it's worth, anecdotedly to be sure, my TV has borne this theory out (at least to this point).

hope this helps.

I'm looking for a second HDTV for my den..around 32" or below(26" fits the best, as it's a small den), and i'm getting stuck here..and frustrated, because nothing is coming close to the PQ of the XBR960.

This 2nd set will be used mainly for gaming(360/PS3) and some Hidef HD movies, and size does not matter, it's only about PQ.(like the XBR960 was)

I'm looking into the Samsung 23" or 26" LCD's(8ms) but i noticed some blurryness in PGR3's demo(in store display) on this LCD. And i'm sure the other LCD's will have the same problems.

Or i could go with a 26" Toshiba or another 26" CRT(i these are still in stock), but all of these CRT's have resolutions that are 800 across , compared to 1400 of the XBR960..and 1280 compared to the LCD's.

I have a older Samsung 27" HDTV CRT (03' model), and it's so obvious the resolution is around 800 lines, because it PQ comes noware near the XBR960's. So the Slimfit Samsung 26" models, are not exciting me as well.

Does anyone have an idea which HDTV(say 32" and under) would be my best bet here, for best PQ..for gaming?

TIA

One more question guys, we all know the XBR960 is/was rated at 1400 lines of resolution...and most CRT's only reach 800-1000 max.

I'm gathering the 1400 pixels across..as in 1400*1080i, is this correct?

Or is the 1400..going down the screen? (ie..1920*1400)

TIA

You've got it right. The optimal signal is 1920 x 1080i. With 1920 representing horizontal resolution, the vertical lines running across the screen. The 1080 represents the vertical resolution, the horizontal lines running from top to bottom.

So, 1440 x 1080i is what we usually refer to as what the SFP tubes like the 960s can do.

i work at a local retail chain that sells tv's and i have access to two floor/display model xbr960's selling for 999$ should i grab them? also im a big gamer,ive been told that becuz of the black levels the crt is the way to go but not being able to display 720p nativly kinda is discouraging im wondering if ill see noticable difference between 1080i and 720p when im playin a game like on 360 etc..

Hi folks...

Back again for help. I got my replacement 960 (the first one, supposed to be NIB, was clearly a floor model) and it is awesome, except...that when viewing in the 4:3 mode, the black bars are about 1 to 2 inches thicker on the right than on the left. The picture, in other words, is not centered, it's to the left a bit. On HD pics, it seems fine, but does that mean I'm seeing too much stuff on the right, and losing some on the left? Is this "overscan"? Does this mean I need to get a tech to adjust it, and is this warranty stuff, or should I seek out a real-deal tech who can properly calibrate the set? Thanks for your anticipated replies.

Jeff

Thanks for the replys on the floor model 960. You guys are very generous. Well, I went and looked at the set I'm looking at buying and its all good for the most part. I didn't have a choice though which grinds my gears because I don't like to settle for something I like a choice. I'm going to another store that has 2 floor models side by side to compare. The one I looked at didn't have that bold of a picture but maybe it was because sunlight was coming through the front door of the store. Mannnnnnn, I'm telling you though I called all my local Frys stores and their selling the set for $699 (floor model). Ain't that crazy. Too bad for me though thier all out. They have a few in Cali though. Just wanted to give a heads up. None in Texas though believe me I checked every nook and cranny.

Also, I finally got a call from an ISF tech and he quoted a price of $225 for one source, $300 or so for 2, $500 for all. I don't know if this is a good price but I'm still lookin'. The guy told me that there wouldn't be a problem with the set if it was a floor model. Man I can't wait to rock this set! I've been waiting so very long. This set is so damn heavy though. Oh well, I'll still rock it! esclamation mark are so dang cheesy!!!

Also, I finally got a call from an ISF tech and he quoted a price of $225 for one source, $300 or so for 2, $500 for all. I don't know if this is a good price but I'm still lookin'. The guy told me that there wouldn't be a problem with the set if it was a floor model. Man I can't wait to rock this set! I've been waiting so very long. This set is so damn heavy though. Oh well, I'll still rock it! esclamation mark are so dang cheesy!!!
The price quoted is what I usually see. I would probably go for the $300 calibration.

Good Luck!

Hi folks...

Back again for help. I got my replacement 960 (the first one, supposed to be NIB, was clearly a floor model) and it is awesome, except...that when viewing in the 4:3 mode, the black bars are about 1 to 2 inches thicker on the right than on the left. The picture, in other words, is not centered, it's to the left a bit. On HD pics, it seems fine, but does that mean I'm seeing too much stuff on the right, and losing some on the left? Is this "overscan"? Does this mean I need to get a tech to adjust it, and is this warranty stuff, or should I seek out a real-deal tech who can properly calibrate the set? Thanks for your anticipated replies.

Jeff
Jeff,

This is a warranty issue and you have every right to expect either Sony or the reseller to make it right. I would avoid calling a pro calibrator until the set meets your expectations from a warranty perspective.

Lately I've heard much about DVD players with built-in upconversion to 1080i. I know the 960 also upconverts non-HD sources and I love the way DVDs look. Would the picture quality improve with a player that features upconversion or does the 960's own circuitry already achieve near HD quality for DVD?

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

- Joe

I have the Panny S77 that upconverts 1080i thru HDMI. That being said; it replaced a Toshiba non-progressive scan player that the TV would upconvert. Some DVD's showed a noticable difference, some not much at all. Panny's sound is much better though.

Got a Dish 622 HD DVR tuner set up yesterday through HDMI, and all I can say is, "WOW!" What a great picture! On top of that, Magnolia price-matched me down to just under $850 today (still within the first 30 days), so, along with the free Sony stand, and the new remote they got for me, and the amazing picture, I am really thrilled with this tv.

Just wanted to share some good news about this model.

Larry

Lately I've heard much about DVD players with built-in upconversion to 1080i. I know the 960 also upconverts non-HD sources and I love the way DVDs look. Would the picture quality improve with a player that features upconversion or does the 960's own circuitry already achieve near HD quality for DVD?

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

- Joe
It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.

I purchased an Oppo upconverting player some time ago. It has a chipset from Faroudja that many believe is the industry reference for video processing, with specific strengths in deinterlacing and scaling. Here's how I determined that the Oppo does a better job than my set. I purchased the HQV Benchmark DVD. This disc puts tv's and dvd players through a suite of really tough video processing tests. Bottom Line? The tests showed that the Oppo did a much better job with video processing than the Sony 34" set. In most cases it wasn't even close.

So, for me the Oppo's upconversion is much nicer than what my Sony set can produce. If you go to Oppo's web site you'll see references to a dvd player shootout last year that found the Oppo's video processing to be superior to a Denon $3,500 unit.

[QUOTE=justsc]It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.

I'm assuming that you have been very pleased with your Oppo? Any problems, issues, comments?

It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.

I purchased an Oppo upconverting player some time ago. It has a chipset from Faroudja that many believe is the industry reference for video processing, with specific strengths in deinterlacing and scaling. Here's how I determined that the Oppo does a better job than my set. I purchased the HQV Benchmark DVD. This disc puts tv's and dvd players through a suite of really tough video processing tests. Bottom Line? The tests showed that the Oppo did a much better job with video processing than the Sony 34" set. In most cases it wasn't even close.

So, for me the Oppo's upconversion is much nicer than what my Sony set can produce. If you go to Oppo's web site you'll see references to a dvd player shootout last year that found the Oppo's video processing to be superior to a Denon $3,500 unit.

Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.

Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.
Look Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=639621&page=1)

The RCA DVR2080 is being sold at great prices but has issues being recognized by some TV's. Does anyone know if it will work with the 34xbr960?

Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.
No way. The Oppo runs for $199. I believe your brother is misinformed, in this case at least. ;)

So it has been awhile since I have last read this forum...having bought my 960 last fall at around $1600....I was surprised ( perhaps i shouldn't be) to see the same TV now about $600 less.... but I also noticed a new model number ..the 970... what is the major difference betwen the two models and is one suppose to be "better" than the other?

Thanks

I bought an RCA 2160... and no, it didn't work with the XBR960. It is only recognized as an "other device" on teh firewire, and w/o the capability to control it, its useless. I sold it awhile back after i realized this...

I bought an RCA 2160... and no, it didn't work with the XBR960. It is only recognized as an "other device" on teh firewire, and w/o the capability to control it, its useless. I sold it awhile back after i realized this...

Thanks. That's good to know. I guess that's why they're so cheap.

Hi,

Ive been searching locally for an xbr960 and have not found one. Have I missed the boat on this one?

I have a 420 and after reading about and seeing a 960 I decided I needed one.

I haven't had much success ordering a heavy TV on-line. (Had to send 2 back
already because of damage in shipping).

I need someone to tell me it's a lost cause and move on in another direction or
give me hope that they are still out there.

Should I give in and consider a 970 or hold out and keep looking.

(BTW, I'm happy with the 420, just want a larger set)

I don't really want to give in and get a 955 yet, until I've exausted the possibility for a 960.

Thanks for you wisdom,

G

Hi,

Ive been searching locally for an xbr960 and have not found one. Have I missed the boat on this one?

I have a 420 and after reading about and seeing a 960 I decided I needed one.

I haven't had much success ordering a heavy TV on-line. (Had to send 2 back
already because of damage in shipping).

I need someone to tell me it's a lost cause and move on in another direction or
give me hope that they are still out there.

Should I give in and consider a 970 or hold out and keep looking.

(BTW, I'm happy with the 420, just want a larger set)

I don't really want to give in and get a 955 yet, until I've exausted the possibility for a 960.

Thanks for you wisdom,

G

What is "locally" for you? That is, where are you? I know of a couple of 960's in the Los Angeles area. I think the Magnolia chain has them in the Los Angeles area as well.

It's hard to tell without seeing them side-by-side, but my 960 seem so much sharper and deeper/richer in color than the 970's I've seen on display. When the program material is good, the 960 is stunning. I'm really happy with my purchase and, until 1080p source material is readily available, I won't even look back.

Larry
(I got a GREAT deal on a floor model from Magnolia... No problems at all)

....What is "locally" for you? That is, where are you? I know of a couple of 960's in the Los Angeles area. I think the Magnolia chain has them in the Los Angeles area as well...


'Washington D.C. area'

Thanks for the reply,

G

I would not expect to find a 955 anywhere, I think they sold out long before the 960s even went on sale. There was a 960 at a BB in the Denver metro area 2 weeks ago. Open box for $1200

I've been looking for a 960, 960N or 955 for the past few weeks. I almost settled on the 970....

I just picked up a 960 refurb model from the Sony Outlet store near me (Washington) for $719+tax. Their regular price is $899, but this week they have a 20% off sale for all CRTs. Extd warranty is $50 for 3 years, $99 for 5 years. My manufacture date is Oct 2005.

Other refurbs that were available at the Sony Outlet store:
955 - $1099 regular price, $879 with 20% off.
960N - $1199 regular price, $959 with 20% off.
910 - also available, not sure of price. Must be below the 960 price though...
970 - $899 regular price, $719 with 20% off.

They also have the 30XS955 model as well. I think it was $750, with 20% off from that.

the 960 actually has a plastic sheet that is bonded to the tube surface with adhesive, issues with that process caused Sony to not use it on the 960N

the 960 actually has a plastic sheet that is bonded to the tube surface with adhesive, issues with that process caused Sony to not use it on the 960N

What issues? :confused:

What issues? :confused:

A few people had dust get caught in the cracks or something like that.

That's about all there is to it.

Also you want to be very careful when wiping or cleaning the screen, as some folks have had the stuff rub off in spots very easily.

So I sit down at lunch time to watch some World Cup, turn on the trusty XBR960 and WTH? Where did that blue blotch in the lower-left corner come from? It wasn't there yesterday. Or the day before that or ever at all since purchasing it last August. Nothing has changed in or around the TV for months, no giant speakers, nothing.

(Ok, I got a Harmony 720 remote four days ago, but I find it hard to believe a new remote could be the cause of the very new and very mysterious blue blotch).

Would I like to know what caused the blue blotch? Sure. But I'ld be a lot happier to simply have it be gone.

Advice, help and magical incantations requested.

EDIT: I now note that there is a small blue blotch in the upper right corner -- not really visible in the photo.

http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960bluebloom.jpg

You've probably got a magnetic field problem. Either it's being generated by something in the room, or maybe the set's interior magnets got jostled. Either way, the easiest fix is to go into the service menu and change the Landing. Here's my post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6436259&&#post6436259) in the Sony Service Menu thread about it. [In your case, you'd need to adjust the LB (Left Bottom) and RT (Right Top) values to fix it.]

Does it pulsate with the audio? It's really can be only 1 of 3 things. 1) Magnetic interference caused by the local speakers (which might mean something inside is not right 2) Magnetic interference cause by an outside influence to that side of the 960 3) Your apeture grille is failing, though I have not seen that bright of a blue when it fails - usually more of a darker shadow as is displayed on the far right reaches of the blotch.

And judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues and really should be professionally set up?

DoAnd judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues and really should be professionally set up?
I noticed that too, how would one go about perhaps fixing that themselves?

Mine does that too, unfortunately I can't find a professional calibrator closeby

Check out the Sony Service Codes (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494) thread and do a search. It'll tell you more than you ever wanted to know.

So I sit down at lunch time to watch some World Cup, turn on the trusty XBR960 and WTH? Where did that blue blotch in the lower-left corner come from? It wasn't there yesterday. Or the day before that or ever at all since purchasing it last August. Nothing has changed in or around the TV for months, no giant speakers, nothing.

(Ok, I got a Harmony 720 remote four days ago, but I find it hard to believe a new remote could be the cause of the very new and very mysterious blue blotch).

Would I like to know what caused the blue blotch? Sure. But I'ld be a lot happier to simply have it be gone.

Advice, help and magical incantations requested.

EDIT: I now note that there is a small blue blotch in the upper right corner -- not really visible in the photo.

http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960bluebloom.jpg

Ladd, it appears that the picture tube has picked up some magnetitism. Perhaps you moved a speaker to clean around it or a vacuum cleaner motor was too near the set. Regardless, the set's built-in degausser should take care of it for you. If it doesn't, then try unplugging the set for a few minutes, then plug it in and turn it on.

If that doesn't work, I have a solution you may or may not want to try: Get a hand-held bulk tape eraser. (Radio Shack used to sell these things...they're about 5 inches in diameter and about 4 inches deep). Turn on your TV, and then activate the bulk eraer a few feet away from the TV. Slowly bring it up to the TV--the picture will give you a "rainbow" effect, but don't worry--it's normal. Move the bulk eraser s-l-o-w-l-y around the blue blob, and then very slowly pull it straight back away from the set. Leave the bulk eraser on until it's at least 5 feet away from the TV. Then turn it off and your blue blob should be gone.

Good luck.

Mark

Have owned my 960N since March 1. Bought it via internet through ABT Electronics. Love the picture but something starting occurring, for the first time, about 3 wks. ago. When I turn the power button "on" I get the small red light flashing on the lower right front for about 12 to 14 seconds until the picture appears. I asked about this and it is part of the normal "degaussing" process. The possible problem that has started is that when I turn the power "on" the red light flashes 5 or 6 times and the power suddenly cuts off before the picture ever appears. It sometimes takes 2 or 3 efforts of turning the power on before it ever completes the degaussing process and the picture comes on. This has been happening every couple days or so. I tried the unplugging the cord a couple of times and leaving it unplugged for a few minutes but it didn't help. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at by a Sony Service Tech. (while it's under warranty) or is it something that you just learn to live with? I'm a novice at electrical matters such as this and would appreciate some input from those of you that are much more versed with problems such as this. Thanks.

Hi, I got the Toshiba HD DVD player a little late but I didnt see many reviews from people with the 960 and the HD DVD player. I am reviewing the player with The Last Samurai.

-No edge enhancement at all.

-No blocks when there is movement like with Comcast/OTA HD.

-No artifacts on the screen during bright scenesa and very few during night scenes.

-Image quality when viewing far scenes is breathtaking and beats any HD broadcasts I have seen via Comcast or even OTA.

-Close ups on character's faces unimpressive. This is most likely due to the way the camera was set up when filming the actual film.

-Picture quality appears to be identical regardless if you use HDMI or Component cables. This may sound odd but I actually think I prefer the Component Cable image over the HDMI image.

-You have to boost the brightness pretty high within your TV(37) regardless of how you have the black level adjusted through the HD DVD player's set up. Having the brightness so high makes white text and white objects appear to bleed ever so slightly.

-1080 DVD playback via HDMI is unimpressive. There are not as many jaggies as with regular DVD I guess but the image does not appear to have any more detail.

Overall I am extremely happy although the player is a bit buggy(has issues with freezing every once in a while), and the loading times(30 seconds after popping the disk in) I am as happy as can be because the bottom line for me is image quality and I can finally see how amazing my 960 can look.

I had the same discoloration on the corner of my Sony. I went into the service menu, then adjusted the LANDING adjustments to control the discoloration. There are adjustments such as UL=Upper Left and BL=Bottom Left. Adjust those and the discoloration on that portion of the screen should go away.

Only thing I dont like about my SONY 960 is the weight, and bulkiness. It is so difficult to move, and I have to move soon! Any great ideas as to the best way to move this monster? Maybe I should just sell it and pick up another when I arrive at my new home...hmmmm

I've recently purchased a 960N; any tips on cleaning the screen of dust, etc.? I don't want to use anything that might harm the screen.

Thanks for any advice. :)

No response on my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". Being a newbie to AVS did I post in the right thread and use the right protocol? If I need to post at another thread pls. let me know where. Still hoping that someone will respond with some info. pertaining to this problem. Thanks again.

I've had this happen 2 or 3 times since I've owned the set. I read somewhere that you should pull the power plug from the wall and wait 30 seconds or so...and then plug it back in. This has worked for me each time the set wouldn't turn on. No idea what causes it though. The set works fine otherwise.

Have had my set for about 10 months; about 4 months ago, had the same thing happen; pulled the power, waited about 5 mins; hasn't happened again(yet!); the cutting of the AC seems to work for a lot of people; remember, the set is a computer of sorts, maybe the "re-boot" is the only way to go...be sure to wait at least 5 minutes.....

No response on my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". Being a newbie to AVS did I post in the right thread and use the right protocol? If I need to post at another thread pls. let me know where. Still hoping that someone will respond with some info. pertaining to this problem. Thanks again.The XBR960 has a 2-year warranty, have you called Sony Service? That is an option.

I am still fidling with my set and my HD DVD player and attempting to find the best image quality. I had an earlier post where I mentioned that component actually looked better than HDMI for me. I take that back... kinda... The component image is overly enhanced and appears to have too many artifacts when compared to the more solid HDMI image. The HDMI image has less debris(that resemble artifacting) when compared to component but is definately softer looking. It was easy to make the component image look good but very hard to get a sharp image using HDMI without getting EE.

Here are the service menu adjustments I used to get a more professional image from my set....

I used the HDMI signal and attempted to make it sharper without any debris... I know a lot of ppl on this forum use Pro mode for the SFP sets... I use VIVID and cut the enhancements down. For some reason VIVID when used with HDMI is not as overly enhanced as Standard even though the image has just as much detail...

I first set the HD DVD player to have deeper blacks(black enhancement on) because I could not notice any loss of shadow detail but I could notice that colors appeared more rich and the blacks looked very solid.

Next I turned BLK for VIVID HDMI signal to 0, this gets rid of the crushing blacks in VIVID mode.

Then I tweaked the gamma so that whites didn't pop more than they are supposed to and cause a grainy effect to the image... GAMS=0

Next, I toned down the gamma slightly with GAMR12 GAMG12 and GAMB10. The reason why I put GAMB to 10 is because with the HD DVD player I had to turn the brightness very high and that introduced a slight blue tinge to the image that is eliminated by scaling the blue gamma slightly. After these adjustments I noticed that there were no longer bright white dots when there is any type of artifacting on screen. This made the image look a lot cleaner.

I next adjusted the LTLV from 3 to 2 because it gets rid of a lot of unneccesary edge enhancement and the image is just as solid/sharp at 2.

Then I adjusted my set's contrast, brightness, color, tint and sharpness...

Contrast = 45
Brightness = 35
Color = 33
Hue = 0
Sharpness =32(a bit high for some but no real edge enhancement introduced since LTLV is toned down).
Color Temp. = Warm
ClearEdge VM = Off

Just recently I took another shot at calibrating my KD-34XBR960 with my Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player.

I left the DVD player in 'standard' picture mode. I have heard that some of the ther picture modes (e.g. dynamic 1, cinema 2) can mess up the picture. Still - it was difficult to avoid the temptation to use these other settings because - as some of you may have heard - this DVD player seems to produce a VERY dark image in standard mode. The only adjustments I made to the DVD player are
a) turn off progressive - let my TV do the de-interlacing
b) turned the 'black level' setting to on. this helps a little with brigtening the picture.

OK - now I go with Avia calibration.

Mode - Pro (of course)

Picture - I had to really crank this - 55. I was tempted to go even higher. Short of this - the white was just not white in the test pattern. The good news is that I didn't see (to my amature eyes) any blooming - for any of the brightness levels. My main question is - is this too high - am I going to damage the TV.

Picture - very close to defualt setting

Color and Hue - defualt

Sharpness - per some suggestions on this board - cranked down to min. Perhaps I should revisit this with the Avia disk.

Color temp - nueteral

Clear edge - turned it off

DRC mode - turned it to progressive. I need to do this - right?

DRC pallete - didin't touch it.

Color axis - selected monitor. Not sure I am happy with this.

Questions -

a) Is that an insane picture setting. If yes - what else can I do about the otherwise was to dark DVD output. Should I mess with the picture setting on the DVD player?

b) Any other comments on my settings.

Note that even for my OTA input - I have the picture up to 50. I was watching the NBA finals last night. Anything short of 50 - the Maverick's uniforms didn't look really white.

Thanks for you input.

Quick aside. Can anyone tell me what 'black crush' or 'crush black' means?

Thanks

Not sure if this will help but I've read post about if it doesn't power up and the light is blinking your supposed to unplug it for a bit and then plug it back in. Also I've read it's not supposed to be in a surge protector but directly into the wall. Hope this helps.

Quick aside. Can anyone tell me what 'black crush' or 'crush black' means?

Thanks

Unless there's a new meaning, that's an old video production term.

The blackest black in a video signal is set up to actually be a 7.5% luminous value on a waveform monitor. This is called the "pedestal." (Pure white is 100%). However, the broadcast engineer at the camera control unit can adjust the camera pedestal below 7.5% all the way down to 0. This is called "crushing the blacks." What it does is make the overall picture darker, and reduces the shades of gray. Now-a-days, this is also called "super black."


Mark

Unless there's a new meaning, that's an old video production term.

The blackest black in a video signal is set up to actually be a 7.5% luminous value on a waveform monitor. This is called the "pedestal." (Pure white is 100%). However, the broadcast engineer at the camera control unit can adjust the camera pedestal below 7.5% all the way down to 0. This is called "crushing the blacks." What it does is make the overall picture darker, and reduces the shades of gray. Now-a-days, this is also called "super black."


Mark
That definition works well. Essentially, a device that crushes blacks makes shades relatively close to black appear totally black, robbing the image of detail in the greys, etc. This would remain true even if brightness (black level) is increased. I had a Samsung upconverting dvd player that crushed blacks and had to return it.

Yikes - this description of black crush is sounding very familiar to me.

I have a Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player (see my post above). I have had to really jack up the picture.

I was waching Black Hawk Down last night. I noticed that - in certain lighting conditions - some of the Somali faces where featureless back blots. I don't think that is how the picture is intended to look. Instead - I might have black crush.

Can anyone point me to the write place to invesigate fixes for this.

Thanks

Yikes - this description of black crush is sounding very familiar to me.

I have a Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player (see my post above). I have had to really jack up the picture.

I was waching Black Hawk Down last night. I noticed that - in certain lighting conditions - some of the Somali faces where featureless back blots. I don't think that is how the picture is intended to look. Instead - I might have black crush.

Can anyone point me to the write place to invesigate fixes for this.

Thanks
The place to start is in the user menu and Brightness is the setting to adjust. Brightness is actually black level. Set it too high and blacks look really washed-out. Set it too low and shades close to black are now all black. So, you need to find a balance where the details are visible. Brightness and Contrast (Picture) work together. The right way to do this is to use a calibration dvd like Avia. It has test patterns for these and all other kinds of adjustments. Apart from Avia it's guess work. You can try setting Contrast to its mid-point and then work with Brightness using one of the dark scenes you've mentioned. Once you have Brightness to an acceptable level, reset Contrast to where it was before. Then, when your copy of Avia arrives, you can do it up right.

Thanks for the input.

I was over on the thread for the NS775 and I saw the following...

Use the Cinema 1 or 2 setting to expand the black level. This will bring out more shadow detail and still keep everything nice and dark without having to turn up the brightness on the TV.

I guess I will give that a try.

well if you set your TV to Pro or Movie, you wont have crushing black and you will have more shadow detail because the gamma is not tweaked within the TV as much as with VIVID... however, the image in Pro or Movie mode is too soft, and dull looking for me... thats why I adjust VIVID and tone the BLK down so that I get the vivid clear image without every shade of black turning into deep black.

When I mention crushing blacks I mean that the darker shades of grey are not displayed properly and appear to be deep black instead of grey. Because of this the image will appear overly dark at times and at other times it will appear OK. Turning BLK to 0 while in VIVID mode makes all of the difference in the world and you wont have to boost your brightness that high at all and the image will be a lot more consistant. Also, since the SFP sets cant handle when ppl adjust the brightness or contrast too high because they are sensitive to blooming, this adjustment will result in a clearer image in the end as well since you dont have to push your TV beyond what it can reasonably display without compromising clarity.

VIVID vs PRO default service menu adjustments...

Color is amplified in the SM for VIVID mode so you have to adjust the color moderately when adjusting COLOR to about 1/3 using your standard TV adjustment and you will get nice natural/vivid colors. While in PRO mode color is not amplified in the SM and you have to adjust the color to about half way to get natural/vivid colors.

With VIVID the GAMMA is tuned too high in the SM. This is good in a way because it helps to give the 960 the bright image it needs to have an image that pops and brings the details that this set has to the forefront. This can be tuned as I mentioned in my earlier post to retain the bright image that VIVID has and still get a natural looking image. With the GAMMA as high as the default SM values are in the SM, the color white is overly enhanced and white dots appear whenever moderate artifacting on DVDs/HD DVDs are present. PRO mode looks EXTREMELY dark because the GAMMA is untouched but is extremely accurate since white does not appear overly enhanced in any way. The clear way to go is to enter VIVID and tune the GAMMA down to get the best of both worlds.

VIVID has the black crush problem while with PRO shadow details are presented perfectly... I actually adjust the PRO mode's brightness so that black is black but all shadow detail is still present then use that as a referance for adjusting VIVID mode's brightness after turning BLK off.

Here is a find that I think is very important for people to know. In the SM there are around 30 seperate sharpness adjustments found in the MID5 section. These 30 seperate sharpness adjustments(horizontal sharpness/vertical... ect...) are tuned perfectly in my opinion in VIVID mode. In PRO mode these sharpness adjustments are all turned off in the SM and that is why the image looks very soft and not detailed in PRO mode. Although VIVID has the enternal sharpness boosted much higher than it is with PRO mode within the service menu, you can adjust the Sharpness to a moderate level and get a VERY sharp image with VERY LITTLE edge enhancement. Even if you feel VIVID has the internal sharpness too high you can adjust the MID5 settings to adjust the sharpness to exactly what you want. I feel that VIVID at it's default MID5 settings is perfect and with my Sharpness set to 25-27(for 1080i signal) I get the perfect image(a lot clearer than PRO mode but without introducing EE). Pro is so soft that it may make material with edge enhancement appear to have no edge enhancement but VIVID makes images witout EE looks stunning but material with excessive EE may stick out a bit.

Good to know, I always avoided Vivid, but will give it a look with it turned down.
I'm on Pro I believe, and some scenes tend to be too dark, as you say.

Regarding the large blue blotch in the lower-left corner of the set:

Thanks to all who answered promptly; my apologies for the apparant rudeness of crying for help then taking so long to return: Real Life (TM) intruded.

Does it pulsate with the audio?No, it does not. But then, I don't use the speakers in the cabinet at all -- they are either turned off completely via a setting in the TV or the volume is simply all the way down.

It's really can be only 1 of 3 things. 1) Magnetic interference caused by the local speakers (which might mean something inside is not right 2) Magnetic interference cause by an outside influence to that side of the 960 3) Your apeture grille is failing, though I have not seen that bright of a blue when it fails - usually more of a darker shadow as is displayed on the far right reaches of the blotch.I agree that the blue blotch appears to be some sort of magnetic anomoly. Why I have a large one in the lower-left corner (I've also noticed blue further up on the left side also), a smaller, fainter one in the upper-right corner and why it magically appeared after 10 months of use with no change in setup is a mystery to me.

I hadn't changed anything in my physical setup. I hadn't moved any speakers for any reason. There have been no motors, vacuum cleaner or otherwise anywhere in the vicinity.

I HAVE removed the center speakers from above the set and moved the large right and left side speakers further away -- they have always sat on the floor with about a 12" gap between speaker and TV cabinet; now they are 18" away. And being on the floor, the woofer distance has always been quite a bit.

Turning the TV off then on again, engaging the auto-degauss feature does make the blue patch go away about 98% -- I can see a slight shadow, but no color. It invariably comes back however, over the space of about two hours. I have disconnected the set from the wall several times, ranging from 10 minutes to 30 minutes with no apparent permanant solution.

So degaussing minimizes the discoloration but it inevitably returns. I haven't seen it as bad as the original photo, probably because I turn the set off then on again at the first major hint of blue.

Feel free to interogate me at will until I finally realize that something has changed in my setup or room or home, because I sure can't figure it out. Cosmic Rays? Sunspots? NSA Beams protecting Camp David? Satellite encepholagraphy? :)


Any recommendations on how to adjust the landing settings when the blue blotch varies in size depending on how long the set has been on? It's almost gone immediately upon powering up (which, I assume would require minimal landing adjustments), but slowly increases over a few hours which would require greater changes in landing adjustments ...



And judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues ... I do now. :)

I haven't had the set calibrated yet (it seemed mostly OK until now) as I used up all my good karma actually purchasing it -- no way to convince my lovely bride that an extra few hundred dollars is needed. Maybe Christmas-time.

The blotches are actually fairly common.... I have heard that it is the earth's magnet or something which explains that it goes away and comes back at different times of the day... My friend who had a simular issue moved his set so that it was facing a different direction in a different corner of his room and the discoloration went away. When I had that issue on my set I was lucky enough to solve it via the LANDING adjustments. My latest 34xbr shows slight discoloration from time to time and I just accept it... sometimes it goes away when I turn my set off and on and sometimes it goes away on its own within 30 mins. I know that some repairmen put little magnets in the speakers to offset the blotches... I guess that may not work since the blotches change location... I would move the TV to a different angle and different location in the room(it is actually pretty easy to slide the TV along the carpet if you have it on the right stand), then if that doesnt work I would suggest adjusting the LANDING settings.

http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960bluebloom.jpg

Strange, Mine does the same thing when I first turn it on in the morning but it slowly goes away within about 20 seconds. The blotch isnt as big on mine but its on the left side and the same color. I never really worried about it being it goes away but now im curious..

Thanks for the responses to my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". I was going to try the "pull the cord for a few minutes" trick but nature beat me to it. 2 nights ago our entire power system went out for 45 minutes when a snake crawled in a substation, shorted out something, and the whole rural county power was off for 45 minutes. My 960 has now been coming on properly since that power outage. Let's hope my power problem has been resolved. Thanks again.

http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960bluebloom.jpg

Strange, Mine does the same thing when I first turn it on in the morning but it slowly goes away within about 20 seconds. The blotch isnt as big on mine but its on the left side and the same color. I never really worried about it being it goes away but now im curious..

You can fix that in the service menu, look for threads about fixing the landing on the screen, I adjusted mine and I no longer have those splotches on the screen.

No, it does not. But then, I don't use the speakers in the cabinet at all -- they are either turned off completely via a setting in the TV or the volume is simply all the way down.

I agree that the blue blotch appears to be some sort of magnetic anomoly. Why I have a large one in the lower-left corner (I've also noticed blue further up on the left side also), a smaller, fainter one in the upper-right corner and why it magically appeared after 10 months of use with no change in setup is a mystery to me.

I hadn't changed anything in my physical setup. I hadn't moved any speakers for any reason. There have been no motors, vacuum cleaner or otherwise anywhere in the vicinity.

I HAVE removed the center speakers from above the set and moved the large right and left side speakers further away -- they have always sat on the floor with about a 12" gap between speaker and TV cabinet; now they are 18" away. And being on the floor, the woofer distance has always been quite a bit.




If it was pulsating, I would say it clearly was the speaker - either through a failure in the chassis to mimimize the magnetic effect on the tube or that actual sound vibrating the apeture grille/screen if it was indeed going bad.

You note it does not pulsate with sound though.

However, you note that you do not use the speakers in the cabinet.

The first part of trouble shooting is to use them and see if it does vibrate with audio.

And turn it up to make sure. Just to be clear, you might need to wait for a show with some heavy bass to see if it moves if it is the apeture grille/screen failing.

If that doesn't pulsate it, its another outside influence, but at least you will either eliminate those or include them.

At that point you can plan your next point of attack, knowing that the issue is either internal cause or external cause.

Hello all,

I have a question about the warranty on this t.v. If i buy this t.v NEW at a local department store, will the sony 2 year parts and labor warranty still be valid?

???Why wouldn't the warranty be good? You usually get a warranty when you buy a new item in a retail store. confused by question, sorry.

Hello all,

I have a question about the warranty on this t.v. If i buy this t.v NEW at a local department store, will the sony 2 year parts and labor warranty still be valid?
The only way you could have a problem is if the reseller (dept store) is not authorized by Sony to sell it's products. Even then, the 2 year warranty is usually upheld by Sony since it's their own guarantee. Even when these sets are sold open box or refurbbed the two year warranty still applies.

Do you know of a specific reason why the warranty might not be valid?

A long time ago I remember this set was coming out and I had considered getting it, but later instead got a 50" panasonic LCD. I used a high end photographic lens filter mod I found on this forum on the LCD which helped the blacks/black details, but I really missed the deep black of a crt, especially for gaming. The LCD also has some screen blurring on fast motion + camera panning
.
Now I've been following this thread after considering getting a CRT for my living room. The living room is narrower than my modeled basement entertainment room with the 50", so I thought a 34" would be perfect to sit across from my couch the narrow-way, with its back to the window.

I knew they didn't make the set anymore but I didn't think it would be so rare to find. I searched tons of google results, checked electronics availability pages, ebay, etc without much luck. I checked a few dept stores in person without luck over the last week, but then today I got on the phone and really called around talking to managers. I found one floor model left in a burb 30 min north of me. "Open box" -- it was actually on at the store so I had a chance to really check it over and play with the menus, etc. It had one 'flattened' top front corner, but only slightly blunted if you know what I mean. The screen looked perfect. I decided to take the set. I also had a 10% off coupon for the store that worked on the purchase, and this dept store's 5yr svc had come down in price in recent history also so I decided to get that too. So I have two years sony and 5 yrs dept store, but the first 2 years overlap. They told me that if anything happens to the set and the parts or replacement model is unavailable, that they would come to an agreement with me on an 'equivalent' or better set at that time to replace it. I think I got a really good deal overall.

I pulled my truck around to the pickup door of the store, backed it up. Then the stockboy comes out with the tv on a wooden cart with metal wheels, completely by itself with no packaging! I looked at him and said "You have no packaging at all for this? It will get banged around like crazy in my truckbed and the screen with get scratched." He said they had no boxes, then finally said he might have a roll of bubblewrap he could use. So we both ran the bubble wrap around the tv three times and taped it. I slid the tv screen facing the cab of my truck and bungied the hell out of it. It looked like a spider web :p Then all the sudden the hot sunny day got overcast and it started to rain lightly. I drove quick to a nearby K-mart and grabbed some plastic dropcloth to cover the tv since I had forgotten my tarp :eek: Luckily it started raining before I got on the highway (so that I could hit k-mart) - because it was very congested rush hour traffic on the way home.

Anyway it all turned out ok. Right after I got it in the house there was a downpour though lol... I haven't had much time to calibrate it, but I think it looks great already. There was a very slight bend on the lower left of the geometry but the rotation controls seemed to take care of that pretty well. I tested my xbox media center on it and it has its own overscan and convergence control setup on it. I watched a few scenes of some dvds, and one whole dvd. My HD cable box is on my basement set so I haven't had a chance to test HD other than a divx clip I had on the xbox.

I'd like to connect a computer to it eventually for dvd playback , gaming, and to use the set as a monitor on occasion. I'm also considering getting a satellite dish service with a dual dvr to replace my single-box cable service. I used to have VOOM a long time ago before they folded, and sat. co's seem to have alot more HD content than my local cable + better deals on multiple boxes.

Very happy with the set so far. Thanks for this thread. :)

Congrats on your new 960.

I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

Cheers!

I have been eyeballing a 970 for the past few months and decided to do some searching on this site for some helpful incite. A couple of days in to my reading I found i missed the boat on the 960 so I went searching locally a couple of weeks ago for a leftover 960. I came across a display model at a Tweeter clearance center and the price was a few hundred dollars more than a new 970. I tried to haggle with the salesman but he would not budge and he said the price was already reduced as low as it would go. I could not see spending more money on a used set that was probably on display for a year or more (manufactured in July of 2004). So I gave up my search and was ready to pull the trigger and buy a new 970. This past Wednesday for the goof I checked back at the Tweeter to see if the set had sold and give them one last chance for a sale, low and behold the price for the set was reduced to $750.00. Bought it on the spot brought home and I am now enjoying it, set needs some tweaking so I am reading post to get some setup help.

I have a couple of questions.

1) Need remote where can I get the RM-Y201?

2) Need stand, do they still sell the matching stand for this unit and if so where do I get it?

Thats a good deal you got there for $750.

I just put my TV on my old panasonic 29" 4:3's wooden/fiberboard pedastal tv-stand for now. I think I bought it at target a long time ago. Its very squat and sturdy. The 960's dark part fits on it, and alittle of the lighter border on the front screenframe. So theres alittle overhang on the screen frame, and the narrowing part of the back housing extends off of it, but it looks pretty decent actually. I'll take a pic later if I can.

Too bad theres no Ikea around here. I got some nice stuff from there driving back from toronto a few years ago but thats a long way to go.

hey i just got the same tv at tweeter for 748 in braintree. not to happy with the picture quality compare to my sharp 37 aquos which i sold. maybe i'll return this and buy Syntax OLEVIA LT42HVi.

max04,
Though I feel the PQ is good, I don't seem to think the HD jumps out at me. I think it may be my settings or possibly the Comcast DVR HIDef box, images are clear but they don't blow me away.
I'm still trying to figure it out.
What are you finding?

hey decharo,
i might have to wait til the Avia DVD come home to correct the geometry and the color. if it not up to my standard im going to return it.

2 requests.

#1 Does anyone have any url links with photos/jpegs/etc of the 960? Not talking about a shot in your House. Straight ahead shots - preferably with no fake picture on the screen - that could be used for an icon.

#2 (and about 5th request) does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5506/sonyantcable7hh.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

There are clearly codes for discrete inputs of 1-7 though the Sony Remote does not have it.

I suppose I am in absolute denial that it doesn't exist as this would really suck.

Does anyone know if this thread is still official?

#2 (and about 5th request) does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).
I suppose I am in absolute denial that it doesn't exist as this would really suck.
There is a discrete code that will take you to the tuner, but it will go to the last selected tuner input (VHF/UHF or CABLE). In other words you can go straight from, say video 2 to the tuner but you can't go from video 2 to "VHF/UHF" specifically or from video 2 to "CABLE". It will go from video 2 to the last tuner input that had been selected.

In other, other words, there is a discrete for "tuner" but not for "VHF/UHF" or "CABLE". My older Sony uses the terms "UHF/VHF" and "AUX" for the two antenna inputs.

In the JP1 world it is OBC 36. The toggle from "UHF/VHF" to "AUX" is OBC 42; both under the standard Sony TV command protocol, but you can't toggle until the tuner is the active source. JP1, I can help, but I don't do Pronto or Harmony, etc; but you can probably find someone that can convert from the OBC codes to those formats.

Have they actually found a discrete for video 7? The last I remember was a workaround by using a macro of video 6 then video toggle.

edit: If you have almost any "One For All" remote, you can try the advanced code (or EFC) by pressing Set/Setup followed by 2,4,3 while in the Sony TV mode (newer ones might require 0243) for the "Tuner" command. The toggle command is EFC 112. These can be assigned to a specific key with a "Keymove".

does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).
I recently programmed a Harmony 720 remote and also had the need for that discrete code. Couldn't find one.

I worked around it .......

---------------------------------------------------

EDIT: Incorrect instructions previously posted, causing unintended frustration among the general populace. Hopefully they don't live anywhre near me and won't track me down like the dog that I am.

Please go down a few postings to Post #4373 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7896196&&#post7896196) to see instructions on setting up the work-around that are much closer to being correct (and with immediate follow-up postings that actually do work).

---------------------------------------------------

Not as clean as a simple direct input code for the ANTENNA button? You bet. But since it is all automatically done by the macro in the remote, the extra 1 second needed to pull of the extra steps is barely noticable.

Hope I correctly interpreted what you were trying to do! :)

Does anyone know if this thread is still official?

I believe Howard Stringer renewed it for another year.

There is a discrete code that will take you to the tuner, but it will go to the last selected tuner input (VHF/UHF or CABLE). In other words you can go straight from, say video 2 to the tuner but you can't go from video 2 to "VHF/UHF" specifically or from video 2 to "CABLE". It will go from video 2 to the last tuner input that had been selected.

In other, other words, there is a discrete for "tuner" but not for "VHF/UHF" or "CABLE". My older Sony uses the terms "UHF/VHF" and "AUX" for the two antenna inputs.

In the JP1 world it is OBC 36. The toggle from "UHF/VHF" to "AUX" is OBC 42; both under the standard Sony TV command protocol, but you can't toggle until the tuner is the active source. JP1, I can help, but I don't do Pronto or Harmony, etc; but you can probably find someone that can convert from the OBC codes to those formats.

Have they actually found a discrete for video 7? The last I remember was a workaround by using a macro of video 6 then video toggle.

edit: If you have almost any "One For All" remote, you can try the advanced code (or EFC) by pressing Set/Setup followed by 2,4,3 while in the Sony TV mode (newer ones might require 0243) for the "Tuner" command. The toggle command is EFC 112. These can be assigned to a specific key with a "Keymove".


1) Yes, I have found the discrete code for to go back to the tuner - but only the last way it was. At that point you must toggle using the equivilant of Button 5.
That makes it impossible to program correct macros for this set :(

I don't think this exists, but I continue to ask as this is the most disappointing development I have had with this set.

2) Yes, there is a discrete code for input 7 that works well at least in Pronto land - and Harmony land as well if what was posted in this thread 6 weeks ago is true. Actually, that was the first I knew that it would accept discrete codes for ANY inputs.

Check here:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-discrete/thread.cgi?3301

Hope I correctly interpreted what you were trying to do! :)

A shout out to you.....it appears you found a solution around the problem, though as you state, not as clean as it could be - but it would seem to work in theory. Quite frankly I didnt even know the set had a favorite channels that was addressable, so I will look at that.

Are all 16 Favorite Stations addressable via a unique code or is it similar to punching in favorite and then the digit(s).

A shout out to you.....it appears you found a solution around the problem, though as you state, not as clean as it could be - but it would seem to work in theory.Not theory, it works fine with my XBR960 and Harmony remote.


Quite frankly I didnt even know the set had a favorite channels that was addressable, so I will look at that.There is a discrete button on the remote for just this feature ...


Are all 16 Favorite Stations addressable via a unique code or is it similar to punching in favorite and then the digit(s).Not that I know of, but I haven't looked either; all I use the feature for is for getting the Harmony remote to switch between Tuner=Cable and Tuner=Antenna.

For going directly to specific channels (either cable or OTA), I use the "Favorite Channel" feature built into the Harmony remote. Infrequently, however, because I don't actually watch much "live" TV. Mostly HD DVR or TiVo.

Not theory, it works fine with my XBR960 and Harmony remote.


Not doubting you. At 4am in the morning, it makes sense on paper - I wasn't about spend the next 2 hours working on it :) As I said, I'll give you an attaboy for figuring out a constant around this oversight on Sony's behalf.

Quite frankly, never having seen or used the favorite menu, all the select scroll down jump here do this doesn't make much sense when reading it for the first time on a web page until you go RTFM and hit the button on screen to see how it operates - and thats what I was referring to.

It's easy to grasp the concept of a favorite going to the proper input - its getting to that point and beyond that took actually looking at how it worked instead of a web page on it.



There is a discrete button on the remote for just this feature ...


You are assuming I have RTFM and know every single feature on the remote :D As I said, I didn't even get into it to find out that existed.

What I haven't come to grip with yet ( I guess because I have not used the Favorite key), is once you put in the favorite are you saying you just use the arrow down key in a macro instead of something like Favorite Enter 1 Enter to get Favorite #1 or Favorite Enter 2 Enter to get Favorite #2?

I can only assume that is what you are referring to - yet I see digits in 10+ in the Sony remote controls which make me wonder if there is direct access to say, Favorite #5 or Favorite #16.

OK...I have experimented with the favorite button and I have hit a wall.

Let's say, per your example, I have Favorite #1 as a Cable Source and Favorite #2 as an OTA source in the 34XBR960.

I select Favorites and scroll down one to Favorites #2 and select it - the OTA Source.

The next time I go to Favorites it opens up on Favorite #2, not Favorites #1 in the side menu - thus I still have no consistent input to start from - whether it be cable or OTA.

If it always started from Favorite #1, then you could program the scroll down 1 to get to the other input....but not if it defaults back to the last Favorite Choosen.

Your description seems to indicate you always get back to Favorite #1 upon pressing the button.

What am I missing here?

OK...I have experimented with the favorite button and I have hit a wall.I have to apologize for leading you astray -- it appears that what I said to do was but a fractured memory of what I actually did two weeks ago.

Having reviewed both the TV setup and the Harmony setup, I now remember that I found the same problem you did (i.e. the tuner input comes up as whatever it was last time), but I did figure out a work-around. And I just checked it again and it DOES work. So, let's try a slightly different set of instructions.

Basically what is done is to have the TV go to the "Favorite Channels" mode and then the cursor is moved down one step to the first entry and selected. This forces the TV into that mode (if your first favorite channel is a cable one, then the TV is forced to cable; if your first favorite channel is an OTA one, then the TV is forced to OTA). This puts the TV into a known state and it can be manipulated from there.

Example:

My XBR960 "Favorite Channels" has as it's first entry a cable channel (ex: C81.4). So having the Harmony pull up the TV's "Favorite Channel" function and then doing the "Direction Down"/Select commands will always select a cable channel thereby forcing the TV into a known state, i.e. Tuner=Cable.

This is all the programming necessary (for the TV) for the Harmony Activity: Tuner=Cable.

To do the Harmony Activity: Tuner=OTA, you do everything listed above and then add the "InputTuner2" command. This toggles the "Antenna" button and switches the TV over to the OTA tuner.

These two setups will provide the proper framework for your programming needs.

Please accept my apologies for offering incorrect instructions previously.

Ladd


Here are two screen shots of my Harmony setup for Activity: Tuner=Cable and Activity: Tuner=OTA


Activity: Tuner=Cable
http://www.windinthetrees.com/harmony/HarmonyTunerCable.jpg


Activity: Tuner=OTA
http://www.windinthetrees.com/harmony/HarmonyTunerOTA.jpg

No apology needed - if you worked around this to get to a known value its worth the effort to understand it.

It appears to me, again correct me if I am wrong, you are sending device down command to the device after the Favorite command.

To me, it seems this only works if you do not use the Favorites for anything other than Favorite #1 (not hard as I did not know it was there for 2 years). If you manually or otherwise select something other than Favorite #1, it will return to that Favorite number when Favorites is depressed.

Thus, I am not sure why you need the Direction Down command after the select? That seems to constantly move the input to the next favorite, if I understand what it is doing correctly.

Am I understanding that correctly?

So for example, if Favorite #1 was in the example you listed 81.4, you would always return to 81.4 only if you did not start inserting other Favorites and moving to them.

At that point, as 81.4 as your base, you just move on knowing that is your set starting point??

On my set I can't use the "Favorite Channel" method (older TV can't use favorite channel with aux antenna) but it has two modes for favorite channel: manual and auto. In "Manual" you set each position and they don't change but "auto" changes the channels listed everytime you enter a channel change from the remote. You might want to check some of the menu options or the I/M for your set to see if that's the case for you.

Nope, you are correct. What we have here is a case where you were unaware of the "Favorite Channels" feature a few days ago, I was, but hadn't actually used it more then once or twice, and now that you are investigating you know more about this than I.

On my TV, when in Tuner=OTA mode, pulling up "Favorite Channels" mode appears to always come up with "add this channel" highlighted, hence I have to do a "down one" command to get to the first favorite channel which is a Cable channel.

When in Tuner=Cable mode, pulling up "Favorite Channels" mode does come up in what it was before as you have pointed out. Hence having my Harmony do the "down one" command will increment the cable favorite channel. I hadn't noticed this previously because ALL of the listings entered into my TVs favorite channels are cable channels so the Harmony programming always works.

99.999% of the programming I watch is Activity=HD-DVR or Activity=TiVo, so what little "live" TV I watch (Weather Channel) will be selected from the Harmony remote's Activity=HD-DVR, "Live TV","Favorite Channels" programmed into the remote (not the TV).

Hence whatever minor glitches the TVs "Favorite Channels" feature introduces won't affect me much, but I can see that your situation may be different.

Other than having only cable channels in your TV's "Favorite channel" listings strictly for Harmony remote "swap tuner" programming, and using only the favorite channels in the remote (not the TV), than all I can hope is that I have offered some clue for you to go in a direction that will solve your particular programming need.

Hence whatever minor glitches the TVs "Favorite Channels" feature introduces won't affect me much, but I can see that your situation may be different.

Other than having only cable channels in your TV's "Favorite channel" listings strictly for Harmony remote "swap tuner" programming, and using only the favorite channels in the remote (not the TV), than all I can hope is that I have offered some clue for you to go in a direction that will solve your particular programming need.

You have clearly come closer to solving this than any one else has that I can tell.

If you populate the favorite channels with only 1 channel and scroll down that will work UNLESS YOU HIT IT FAVORITES FROM THE 1 FAVORITE CHANNEL. At that point it will scroll down to ADD and enter asking you to add a new channel.

Thus, the second time you hit that favorite channel button it would still put you in ADD CHANNEL, unless I am missing something.

Your odds decrease if you populate the favorite channel selection with channels you watch, but it appears you can only do it with one source (either OTA or Cable) or you wont know what the landing base is. Also if your last channel you were watching was #16 or the last channel in the last, it appears you still get thrown into add channel.

Upon thinking about it, it appears that if you put 1 favorite channel in - one that you never view - think about Pax/i, 24/7 religion or if you don't speak a foreign language, Univision. That way you can be assured you would never be on that channel when you press the button on the remote. However, the bad news is you would go there for a second or two everytime you did hit the sequence.

Just a follow up so its in the thread if anyone else needs it or searches for it one day in the archives......

Again, hats off to Ladd for his idea to use the favorite channel to form a base point as Sony did not include a discrete cable tv/ota tv code for aftermarket remotes. His work got us where we are here.

Upon scanning my cable channels I discovered even with the cable card, there were channels that were black that I was not subscribed to. When I put the number in, they would simply try to tune and then go back with a No Signal message.

By using one of those channels (301 for example in my area) as the one and only favorite channel, I know I will never be watching that channel as its last viewed could have an effect to dsysnch this process.

In other words, it will never be the last viewed channel - ever...which cannot be said of most any of channel with 100% certainty.

By setting the favorite channel as Cable 301, I know that I can always get there by pressing favorites button and scroll down 1. At that point I will have a black screen as it tries to tune to Cable 301....but I can then either 1) input a new cable channel number knowing for sure that it is on the cable card connection or 2) Hit the input selector toggle once to go to OTA, knowing for sure I will always then be in OTA Mode - so I can punch in an OTA channel selection.

All the testing thus far is bulletproof.

Thus, Ladd, you figured out the way to make this work with this tv.

Thanks!

I just posted this asking about the general wisdom of buying a display model CRT:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7900877#post7900877

I'm wondering more specifically about what you guys think of buying a display-model 960 vs a new 970. I know the 960 has the nice SFP tube, but on the other hand the 970 has more inputs...

I'm conflicted between the 960 with a possibly-degraded SFP and a new 970 with extra inputs. Are there any other important differences to be considered? (such as extra DRC options? I plan to use this TV with a ps2 a lot, so SD-enhancement is appreciate :-).

I just posted this asking about the general wisdom of buying a display model CRT:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7900877#post7900877

I'm wondering more specifically about what you guys think of buying a display-model 960 vs a new 970. I know the 960 has the nice SFP tube, but on the other hand the 970 has more inputs...

I'm conflicted between the 960 with a possibly-degraded SFP and a new 970 with extra inputs. Are there any other important differences to be considered? (such as extra DRC options? I plan to use this TV with a ps2 a lot, so SD-enhancement is appreciate :-).
The 970 has more inputs? Could you expand on this? I suppose it might have an extra low bandwidth composite or coaxial input, but I'm unaware of any additional high-end inputs. Plus, the 960 has 2 FireWire inputs, which is great for connecting certain kinds of devices requiring digital interfaces.

Try to learn how long the 960 has been used as a display model, and what settings have been used. Obviously, the longer it's been on, and being driven hard (e.g. excessive contrast - Sony calls it "Picture" in user menu) the greater the chance of shortened lifetime and possible burn-in.

If the set seems OK technically, then the asking price is the key. I would expect a floor-model 960 in good condition to run at around $1,100, and less if there's evidence of being overdriven.

Floor Model 960 vs New 970 - This is up to you and your viewing habits. In order to appreciate the picture quality of the SFP tube, you need to sit relatively close, say between 4'-7'. Any further back and IMHO the advantage is lost, it would be best to go with the new 970. Personally, I always try to buy new.

Good Luck!

I've done some searching for the topic, but couldn't find it...

I'm having issues with my KD-34XBR960 where I have an OTA antenna plugged into my TV, and running an optical cable from the output directly into my Pioneer receiver. When watching OTA HD programming, the audio drops in/out (from Digital to Pro Logic) resulting in audio loss. I haven't found a particular pattern, but it's good for a few minutes, then it drops frequently.

Has anyone heard of this issue with the XBR960? I've plugged the same optical cable into my XBOX and the audio doesn't drop at all, so I think that'd rule out a crappy optical cable.

The 970 has more inputs? Could you expand on this? I suppose it might have an extra low bandwidth composite or coaxial input, but I'm unaware of any additional high-end inputs. Plus, the 960 has 2 FireWire inputs, which is great for connecting certain kinds of devices requiring digital interfaces.

Sorry, I was mistaken. I thought the 960 lacked HDMI input but see now that it does have one.


Try to learn how long the 960 has been used as a display model, and what settings have been used. Obviously, the longer it's been on, and being driven hard (e.g. excessive contrast - Sony calls it "Picture" in user menu) the greater the chance of shortened lifetime and possible burn-in.

Both places I talked to were pretty uninformative about usage. I'm not sure if they really don't know or were being evasive :-).

Does the 960 have any test patterns or diagnostics of some kind?


If the set seems OK technically, then the asking price is the key. I would expect a floor-model 960 in good condition to run at around $1,100, and less if there's evidence of being overdriven.

One place wanted $1200, and another $800. The latter told me it had been on 10 hours a day for a year, which sounds like a worst case scenario to me. I'm going to go on to the store and fiddle with them to see what I think.


Floor Model 960 vs New 970 - This is up to you and your viewing habits. In order to appreciate the picture quality of the SFP tube, you need to sit relatively close, say between 4'-7'. Any further back and IMHO the advantage is lost, it would be best to go with the new 970. Personally, I always try to buy new.

I'm planning to use it almost exclusively for game consoles (xbox360, ps3) including "legacy" consoles like the ps2. I tend to set fairly close for that kind of use, and it seems like the kind of signal that would benefit from additional clarity.

I thought my "power coming on" problem had been resolved when my power was off for 45 minutes when the snake shorted out the sub-station. My "power on" was working properly for 2 days now it's back to the "have to hit the power button 3 or 4 times before the picture comes on". I called the 1-800 Sony Service # and explained my problem. The lady took all my info. and assigned me a File #. Put me on hold until she could locate my nearest Sony Repair Center. Bad news, living in a somewhat remote area of West Tn. the nearest Repair Center is 50 miles away and they are unwilling to come that distance to my house to make the necessary repairs. She said she would kick my service request up to the next level at Sony and let them make the determination as to how to resolve my service problem. Part of the reason I bought the 960 was the attractiveness of the 2 year, in home repair, warranty. Now I'm told that I might not get in home repair service because I live too far from the nearest Sony Repair Service dealer. Bummer! I guess I could live with this problem but I'm afraid it will only get worse and get to the point to where the picture won't come on at all. Has anyone else had this problem and what did Sony Service have to do to correct the problem? Thanx.

A few weeks back I raised the question of whether an upconverted signal from a DVD player would offer better picture quality than upconversion by the 960. Since that time I compared my DVD recorder's output switching between 480I to 480P and, after adjusting the settings for each for optimin picture quality, found that the best picture quality was through 480I and use of the 960's upconversion. I did the same with my Cable HD DVR (switching between with and without upconversion) and also ound the upconverted signal through the Cable Box lacking compared to the 960's own circuitry.

Maybe the 1080P resolution for HD/Blue Ray DVDs will provide a better picture (standard DVDs look so great on the 960) but after these tests I'm glad to find that the 960's upconversion circuitry is all that one requires.

...Does the 960 have any test patterns or diagnostics of some kind?
I believe it does. You might try doing a search in the Sony Service Codes thread for internal test patterns.


One place wanted $1200, and another $800. The latter told me it had been on 10 hours a day for a year, which sounds like a worst case scenario to me. I'm going to go on to the store and fiddle with them to see what I think .
Both could be reasonable prices - but you do need to check for yourself, as you are planning. ;) 10 hours for a year might not be a deal killer if it hasn't been driven in torch mode in Vivid or with Contrast (the Picture setting) too high (over 70-75% on the slider). If it has been driven too hard then I'd forget about it. Plus, you have to wonder why they're asking only $800. The other one has me intrigued.

I'm planning to use it almost exclusively for game consoles (xbox360, ps3) including "legacy" consoles like the ps2. I tend to set fairly close for that kind of use, and it seems like the kind of signal that would benefit from additional clarity.
In your case I totally agree - the added resolution would be not only appropriate but more enjoyable too.

Thanks for all your help on this tv. I have an XBR700 40" in Pa. that I love. They don't make it anymore. The XBR960N is a great addition to our Florida place...........

So in repayment for the great advice, Jetson in Fort Pierce Fl has 1 display and had 3 NIB XBR960n's until I bought one on Saturday for $1099. That means they have 2 NIB and 1 display left. Manufacture date 2-06......good luck!

So in repayment for the great advice, Jetson in Fort Pierce Fl has 1 display and had 3 NIB XBR960n's until I bought one on Saturday for $1099. That means they have 2 NIB and 1 display left. Manufacture date 2-06......good luck!

Congratulations and enjoy your new XBR960. To find a model new in box, manufactured four months ago, for $1,099 is a steal and an $800 price drop from what many of us paid this time last year.

BTW - your 4x3 40" XBR actually yields a 16x9 screen size slightly bigger than the 34" model you just got. Let us know how they compare to each other.

While I've owned the 960 for nearly a year I only recently discovered that customizing the DRC palette affects previously made picture settings so when detail and clarity are set one should go back to see if the initial picture, brightness etc need to be readjusted slightly.

I have been very satisfied with my THX Optomizer settings for DVD for quite a long time. however, I decided to experiment by adjusting a second unused DRC palette. For this test in detail and clarity I used the THX Optomizer main menu which had pure white text against a pure black background. I was amazed how more vivid the printing had become but then noticed a darker picture playing back the movie. Went back to my menu settings and found I needed to re-adjust slightly the brightness, picture, color, etc (sharpness left alone). The increased picture quality was stunning.

Too bad the manual made no mention that detail and clarity settings could affect other settings causing them to need re-adjustment. Could have had this more brillant picture quality all this time :)

The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.

Well after 5 months of trouble free usage my 960 decided to do the infamous wont power on symptom ,the light would flash repeatedly then nothing , you could tell the TV was on but there was no picture or sound , after pressing power again you'd hear the usual "click" as it shut off, I tried it a few times with no luck, I then unplugged it for a few minutes and thankfully it turned right on after that. Hopefully it doesnt become a problem..

Well after 5 months of trouble free usage my 960 decided to do the infamous wont power on symptom ,the light would flash repeatedly then nothing , you could tell the TV was on but there was no picture or sound , after pressing power again you'd hear the usual "click" as it shut off, I tried it a few times with no luck, I then unplugged it for a few minutes and thankfully it turned right on after that. Hopefully it doesnt become a problem..


After all this time, I only had that happen to me about two weeks into owning the thing, and after I did what you did, I've never seen it again. *knocks on wood*

Hi all,

First off, thanks for making AVS such a great forum with your collective, in-depth knowledge. I will do my best to contribute as I learn from the wealth of posts here. I am an audiophile, but alas, a video noob.

On to the dilemma. I have the opportunity to purchase what appears (to me) to be a near-perfect condition floor model KD-34XBR960 with but a single flaw: There is a smudge about the size of a pencil eraser on the anti-glare coating (plastic sheet?) near the middle-right half of the screen. It is noticable with the TV off, less-so with it on. However, since I know it is there and my vision is very good, it is definitely noticable by me at typical viewing range. My wife, whose vision is okay, would probably miss it without her glasses.

It is being offered at an extremely low price (roughly 1/3 of retail) I'm guessing due to this defect. It has been on display for the better part of a year at Tweeter. Is the defect worth the low asking price or is the question entirely subjective? If so, what is your opinion given the scarcity of this model? Can anything be done to buff out or reduce the smudge? Thanks in advance for any help. My apologies for any breeching of the CoC.

I think one poster had accidently damaged the coating when cleaning and decided to remove the entire coating, that may be an option. I think other cheap 960s can be found, good luck.

Hi Guys

Had my XBR960N for about three months now -- hooked up to the new Dish HD-DVR via HDMI. Awesome.

I am want to know about using the FireWire ports with a real or virtual D-VHS machine. The playback of material FROM the machine TO the 960 over FireWire seems straight forward, but what about the TV sending FW signals TO the D-VHS for recording. Will the 960 really translate incoming signals from HDMI and/or Component HD and turn them into a FW signal for a D-VHS deck to read?

Have any of you done this? What about 5C encryption hurdles?

Thanks,
Christopher

I have a 960 and use a cablecard with Comcast. I recently bought a Mitsubishi HD1100U D-VHS and it works perfectly to record and playback movies from HBO.

It will not convert YPbPr input to firewire output. That would be too easy - even though I tried it 2 years ago with high hopes.

I am pretty sure I remember OTA working.

I was under the impression it would not record cable output to the IEEE1394 as typically DVHS would record the entire channel (or QAM) which in this instance is 38.81 which the DVHS could not pass - But in reality, I have wired it so many ways in the past 2 years, I cannot remember every combination that did work or didn't work.

If Christopherj above is recording HBO directly from his unit via cablecard, then it must work.

However, I am wondering if there is a different, newer firmware that allows this from what I had when I tried it.

OK, so a cable card is working, even with encrypted channels, and making the FireWire/iLink port act like an OUTPUT to feed the D-VHS machine. What about just an HDMI input from a satellite HD box? When I press the iLink button, I am not seeing the program in the preview window.

How do you tell the iLink screen which input to be looking at?

-Christopher

Let me word this better:

Is anybody anywhere using the XBR960 to convert an HDMI signal form an HD DVR satellite box (like the Dish VIP266) to a Fire Wire signal that a D-VHS records -- with 5C encrypted channels?

I just want to record the already stored programs on the HD-DVR, and was hoping the XBR960 could make the workflow happen.

My understanding is that, short of a professional video component analog HD capture card in a computer, or a some sort of ripping software performed on the DVR hard drive, the D-VHS is the only way to record the 5C encrypted programing.

Thanks in advance.

-Christopher

I am not sure if this is the correct forum for this but lets see....
I am moving and will be taking my XBR960. Has anyone moved this heavy tv anywhere yet? If so how did you: move it? protect it? place it?

Thanks for your...indulgence. :)

May we correctly assume that you don't have a large basement where you have kept the original box and all the associated packing material? :)

Let me word this better:

Is anybody anywhere using the XBR960 to convert an HDMI signal form an HD DVR satellite box (like the Dish VIP266) to a Fire Wire signal that a D-VHS records -- with 5C encrypted channels?

I just want to record the already stored programs on the HD-DVR, and was hoping the XBR960 could make the workflow happen.

My understanding is that, short of a professional video component analog HD capture card in a computer, or a some sort of ripping software performed on the DVR hard drive, the D-VHS is the only way to record the 5C encrypted programing.

Thanks in advance.

-Christopher

It doesnt work that way - only with the tuner input.

That's how it selects which input to output on the ilink port - it selects the tuner.

It doesnt work that way - only with the tuner input.

That's how it selects which input to output on the ilink port - it selects the tuner.

Thanks, that's the kind of answer I was looking for. Sad, but the truth.

So now I am looking at these possibilities for fair-play recording of 5C encrypted HD from my XBR 960 and Dish HD-DVR:

1) a $500 FireWire add-on to the HD-DVR by a company that does that, and a $500 D-VHS machine.

2) a $1000 professional analog HD Component video capture card in my Mac tower by either Black Magic Design or AJA.

3) pulling out the DVR drive and using ripping software (which may or may not work) and lengthy software conversions. Yuk.

Man I don't want to do anything illegal, I just want to archive some shows that I already pay to watch. Jeez. If my HD-DVR had a back-up to external disk option, this wouldn't even be an issue. This is a totally legit fair-play need that should be filled.

-Christopher

May we correctly assume that you don't have a large basement where you have kept the original box and all the associated packing material? :)

Yes, you may assume that. Like all things, I have had the TV longer than one year and the box is gone.
Here are some questions I have about moving this set. (hope most of you dont mind this and will indulge me).
I was thinking of padding the front screen, then laying it screen down on a padded dolly for transport down the stairs. Then put it upright in the truck I rented.

The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.

Have him double check ALLl the voltage regulator heatsinks. Mine was stripped out from the factory and would allow the voltage regulator overheat which would turn off the set. They replaced the regulator and heatsink and all has been good for a few months.

The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.

Have him double check ALL the voltage regulator heatsinks. Mine was stripped out from the factory and would allow the voltage regulator overheat which would turn off the set. They replaced the regulator and heatsink and all has been good for a few months.

a $500 FireWire add-on to the HD-DVR by a company that does that, and a $500 D-VHS machine.


I believe you speak of the R5000HD card. It works with USB so actually you must run that to a computer and THEN output it to IEEE1394 to a DVHS deck. Remember to add the cost of the computer into this equation.


a $1000 professional analog HD Component video capture card in my Mac tower by either Black Magic Design or AJA.


Why does everyone that speaks of this option always forget about getting the audio back into the computer and keeping it in sync?


pulling out the DVR drive and using ripping software (which may or may not work) and lengthy software conversions.



Are you sure you can do this with the 622? I haven't looked real hard, but I thought the files on the 622 had pretty good encryption on them.....maybe not though.


If my HD-DVR had a back-up to external disk option, this wouldn't even be an issue.



Didn't Dish say (although we know how much Dish changes what they say) they were going to have an external hard drive add on to 622 in the future using the usb port?

I believe you speak of the R5000HD card. It works with USB so actually you must run that to a computer and THEN output it to IEEE1394 to a DVHS deck. Remember to add the cost of the computer into this equation.

Actualy the 169Time company directly puts a FireWire port on the DVR motherboard (for connecting directly to a D-VHS recoreder). But Im not sure if they are doing this very recent model yet. No computer needed.

Why does everyone that speaks of this option always forget about getting the audio back into the computer and keeping it in sync?

These capture cards keeps rock solid audio sync. It wouls be a complete analog process via Stereo RCA and Component HD. They are used for professional audio/video production. We use them in our studio evy day. They capture either in DVCPRO-HD, HDV, or Uncompressed HD codecs. Flawless workflow.

Are you sure you can do this with the 622? I haven't looked real hard, but I thought the files on the 622 had pretty good encryption on them.....maybe not though.

No, I'm not sure. I'm asking in other places. But it has been done with past models.

Didn't Dish say (although we know how much Dish changes what they say) they were going to have an external hard drive add on to 622 in the future using the usb port?

I have been spending a good bit od time on the boards at DBS Talk.com about my particular DVR and this info has never been given. It would be nice, though. I would be happy if that were the case. But I dont think they have.

-Christopher

Yes, you may assume that. Like all things, I have had the TV longer than one year and the box is gone.
Here are some questions I have about moving this set. (hope most of you dont mind this and will indulge me).
I was thinking of padding the front screen, then laying it screen down on a padded dolly for transport down the stairs. Then put it upright in the truck I rented.I don't see a problem with your method.......probably the way I would do it.

I think the set has a standby mode so maybe some of the power-on problems are related to being in standby, and unplugging it for a bit clears the memory or something. Just a thought.

I know other turn-on problems would usually be related to the 'ignition circuitry' but I try not to use the power button on the tv itself since I've had trouble related to the actual power button on a different brand set before. I just use the remote (call me paranoid).

The time I transported my set was from the store to home. I wrapped my set in bubble-wrap three times, and loaded it with one other person (one on each end) into my ford ranger's truck bed. I would have used more padding and blankets but I didn't realize before I left to pick it up that 'open-box' meant no box whatsoever. The stock-boy brought the set out completely unpacked in anything on an old wooden cart with metal wheels :rolleyes: . Anyway I put the screen side up against the cab of my truck and bungied the heck out of the tv. It looked like a web. I then put a balled/folded rag or towel between the screen frame and the truckbed/cab wall at a few spots so that the screen surface wouldn't get any direct pressure. I did that just to be safe, even though I have a bed-liner. It was going in my living room so my gf's dad and I each took an end and brought it in the front door.

It worked out well. I would make sure you have a pretty strong person on each end of the tv in order to navigate doorways and stairs where extra people can't help much. if you are doing alot of stairs you might consider a heavy-duty dolly or build a small wooden sled with a foot on it (to hold the set on the sled), and maybe a rope safety line so others can feed the sled down to the movers on the stairs. Thats only if you want to be extremely safe about it. Thats how I move heavy aquariums, which otherwise can get pressure points and crack when set down on staircases.

One other tip I have for moving monitors and televisions (and aquariums for that matter) --- keep the surface(s) protectively covered the whole time. It is natural to pull the object to your torso when moving things, and most people have a belt-buckle or a button on their jeans, etc at their waistline. I think you get the picture :rolleyes: Also remember to avoid bumping into door handles, railings, and the remaining railing mounts if you removed a railing.

Hi guys, i have a 960 and was wondering if you could suggest good TV stands for this set that are no wider than 50" and can support the weight of the tv.

Also something that is below $120

Thanks,
Dennis

Hi guys, i have a 960 and was wondering if you could suggest good TV stands for this set that are no wider than 50" and can support the weight of the tv.

Also something that is below $120

Thanks,
Dennis

If you have a Circuit City nearby, I have this stand and I love it:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-TV-Stand-23541S-/sem/rpsm/oid/69535/catOid/-12892/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

It is a bit over your price range though. They do offer a less expensive model that is in your range, but I don't have any personal experience with it. The main difference is that the one that I own has the TV sitting on a glass shelf, the cheaper one uses wood. Good luck.

I am looking to get a xbr960; however I live in Toronto and they can't be found here. Anyone suggest a place where one can but one at a pretty good deal over the US border? Just wondering.

Thanks

Dean

Has anyone else besides JoeKing hooked up the Toshiba hd-dvd player to the 34xbr960? I figured that this could possibly be the absolute best hd experience one could have at 34".

I'm considering a new plasma or lcd, but would sure love to hear more reviews of how the hd-dvd player looks with these tvs. Thanks.

Does anyone know if Sony has a technical bulletin on this set? Last night when I turned the set off, I heard a funny noise. Now it won't stay on and the color is funky.
I've had it almost 2 years, so am no longer under warrantee.
I thought I read in the beginning of the 140's pages someone mentioning a technical bulletin.

Does anyone know if Sony has a technical bulletin on this set? Last night when I turned the set off, I heard a funny noise. Now it won't stay on and the color is funky.
I've had it almost 2 years, so am no longer under warrantee.
I thought I read in the beginning of the 140's pages someone mentioning a technical bulletin.

Unless you have had the set over two years it is still in warranty.

Found a refurb 960 at a local CC and bought it, have it home now.

I need help as to what I should do from here to create the maximum PQ, the maximum performance. Is there some sort of cliff notes or cheat sheet to all the crazy info in this and the Sony Service Codes threads? Now this thread and that one have gotten so long and confusing that I basically get completely lost in them.

Can somebody please, just tell me or point me to the best settings that have most recently been determined or let me know where I should start from here?

Here's a couple things for your consideration. I'll have the 960 in a room that is basically 90% dark during the day, completely dark at night (windows have been blacked out). I'll be sitting about 8 and 1/2 feet from it. I want the settings tuned so that HD-DVD and upconverted SD DVD from the Oppo look the absolute sharpest/best. I'll never use the TV to watch any kind of cable/SD/or HD TV channels or play old videogames but rather I'll only be using it for the purposes I just noted.

Please, help me to get started, set the basics of my TV, and then calibrate it to hell via the service menus. If somebody can explain all the steps necessary to do all that for my 960 (that caters to, takes into account the environment I described in the previous paragraph) clearly and in order - I'd really appreciate it and would even be willing to send you like five bucks in the mail for the help.

Let me know and thanks!

Okay, well, now after having actually put it on it's new finally-assembled stand and turned it on - the TV doesn't work at all. My wife was the one who drove it home from CC and she said that she thinks she broke it by letting it roll all around the back of her SUV (god help me).

Anyway, I turn it on and it's just a bunch of black screens with jittery white horizontal lines or static filled screens that have wavy brighter lines up in the top half as well. It's screwed - probably the tube needs replacement, right?

So, it's under warranty with Sony still and they're in the process of calling me back to provide me with their service call schedule.

Anyone who has experience with this kind of repair on the XBR960 or who knows Sony service help in general - please, speak up and tell me the details. I'd like to know how long I can expect it to take to be fixed and what the heck I'm in for...

Amiable-Akuma, here are some excerpts from my ordeal with the set. It was repaired on 01/06 and has worked flawless since then. Overall it took about 4 weeks to get it fixed due to the holidays.
DI-TECH1, my picture is always scrambled. It is not intermittent.Click here (http://images.snapfish.com/345848743%7Ffp336%3Enu%3D326%3A%3E479%3E79%3A%3EWSNRCG%3D323 33%3A8668376nu0mrj)

Technician came out and replaced the B-Y Board, no joy. He said next they will try the "Q Box". If I have no HDTV over new years, that will not be good.
They will try to get the Q Box replaced by Friday. :confused:

Yesterday, 01/05, tech came out and replaced the MZ board. My problem is fixed. I sure missed my HDTV.
This TV is awesome(when it's working)!!!!

I just got the last 960N I could find at Crutchfield (open box) but to my horror
after a few minutes of watching it started to show this horrible blue streaking.
Moving the set or gently hitting it from the back or side makes the streaking go away but after a period of time it starts again. It seems almost like a loose connection of some sort internally. Has anybody seen this problem before or know if it can be easily fixed. I really don't want to have to exchange it for another non- N model.

I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.
Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??

Can there be a magic SM fix for this. High Def cable looks great, DVD's look great, standard def cable STINKS!

I have Comcast with a 3412I HD DVR.

The picture looks grainy and very unattractive. I played with the set-top box options and I can't seem to improve.

HD is great but there is such limited programming with Comcast I feel my hands are tied to 10-20 channels of programming.

Anybody else with this problem?

Drop your Sharpness setting to '0'. Turn the VM setting to 'Off'. In the Advanced menu, pick any Custom Palette and take its level to '0' for both adjustments.
This should help.

I use S-cables for all SD material, it means you have to select an another input.
My receiver up converts any signal that goes out over component or HDMI cables.
The Sony up converts again any signal that comes in on component or HDMI.
This double up-conversion gave me a picture like the one you described.
Be good to know if this works for you?

I have my sharpness way down (not zero but close), I have my VM off, and tweaked the Custom Palette and the changes are minimal.

I am using an HDMI cable from the box to the TV. I will try an Svideo cable to see if the digital to analog conversion within the set top box makes it any better.

Thanks for the recommendations guys, I will let you know what I find out.

Sorry for the OT post, but I submitted a post a while ago in which I stated that some of my adjustments in the 2170D-1 menu stopped having an effect (VCEN and VPIN in particular.)
Now, to my horror, I recently discovered that the Vertical Tilt and Centering adjustments in the User Menu don't respond to adjustment either. I haven't come across any other SM adjustments that have lost their effectiveness. Any ideas as to where this problem could be based?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

Bryan

I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.
Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??

Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?

Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?
Too true. :o

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi! You're my only hope!

Here are three photos showing the blooming that magically started appearing about a month ago in all four corners of the screen of my XBR960 purchased August 2005.

I've adjusted the "landing" values in the service menu, which makes the bloom almost completely go away but it creeps back over the course of an evening. Even taking the landing adjustment to the full 255 or 0 doesn't keep the blooming from returning. So I've returned the landing values to what they were initially.

The degauss sequence when the TV is initially turned on many times (not most or all) significanlty lessens or removes the bloom (if it doesn't, waiting 10 minutes or so to turn the TV off then on again to initiate a second degauss does the trick), but it still creeps back after a few hours.

There are separate speakers to each side of the TV, but they are about 10 inches away from the cabinet of the TV and sitting on the floor two feet lower -- and, of course, they've been there since last August while the color bloom issue only appeared last month.

Does the different colors of the bloom when different color backgrounds are displayed offer any clues as to what the problem might be?

Does the temporary nature of the adjusting the landing values or initiating a degauss sequence offer any clue as to what the problem might be?

Blue Sky:
http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960/IMG_4814.jpg

Red Carpet (movie premier):
http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960/IMG_4830.jpg

Green Grass:
http://www.windinthetrees.com/xbr960/IMG_4827.jpg

I use S-cables for all SD material, it means you have to select an another input.
My receiver up converts any signal that goes out over component or HDMI cables.
The Sony up converts again any signal that comes in on component or HDMI.
This double up-conversion gave me a picture like the one you described.
Be good to know if this works for you?

I notice both SD broadcasts and DVDs look better when allowing the Sony to handle upconversion. When the cable box was upconverting and the DVD player sent out a 480P signal I found there to be less detail and natural color in the picture quality than with cable box set to "HDMI" and the DVD player to "480i". This also allows one to use the DCR Palette and other advance settings in the 960.

- Joe

Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?

I disagree...SD programming looks better on my 11 year old, 20" Sony TV. The reviews on the 960 and the previous 910 model were the same about how HD programming was superb, but SD was poor. Sony's advertisement even said it was 'Designed specifially for HD...' IMO, SD does not look bad, its just that HD looks alot better.

So I’ve gotten my 960 to come on/work, no longer having those more serious problems that I described in my last post above. Thanks for your help to those who responded. HOWEVER, now I have other issues/questions. As far as I can tell my 960 still has the following problems:

1. There is some color/light blooming spots that appear along the edges of both sides of the screen. You guys know what these look like from previous posts. The right side of the screen has a significant green splotch, the left side has a bunch of red all along its side. They are distracting and affect the overall picture. And, AFAIK, they don’t fade away once the TV has been on for a while.

2. Though the middle of the screen is fairly sharp/accurate - the sharpness of the overall screen fades as it gets closer to the left and right sides of the screen. So basically 10 percent of each side of the screen is quite blurry and distracting, especially if text is displayed.

3. Whenever I try to bring up like the set-up menu for the DVD player or run a PC/Windows w/the 960 – everything viewable appears shifted like 25% to the left so that a quarter of what you would normally view is off-screen and not visibile. This can be corrected in Windows to an OK extent by manipulating the window sizes and changing the desktop settings but it seems to be a clear problem/defect regardless.

4. The geometry seems to be off slightly as well on the left and right sides of the viewable screen are tilted diagonal a bit.

5. In general, the screen seems to be too dark. As a previous poster above mentioned – messing with the brightness settings only really serve to wash out the picture. Maybe I’m comparing my old Panny LCD to this CRT unfairly but yeah, it seems dark. The screen is sort of only just acceptably bright enough when the room is completely dark and noticeably dark when there’s a light on in the room. Is this normal and/or should I worry about this?

6. Finally, I’d like to ask: just what in general, is the theory behind using a PC on a HD CRT? I’ve gotten my PC to work on it but I get the impression that CRT’s aren’t meant for displaying small text or Windows in general. It’s taken a lot of tweaking within Windows to get things to display acceptably but it still doesn’t appear nearly as clear or adjusted as it did on my Panny LCD.

OK, so there are those things – but, honestly, now (based on the experience/performance I’ve had thus far) I also have the ultimate question of: should I keep this TV and endure having to wait for it to be fixed or tweaked correctly over several weeks with no guaranteed as-good-as-new type improvement or should I go ahead an return it for exchange with something else like a newer LCD?

Let me know your opinion based on the info I’ve given you.

See, this is a refurbished 960 I just bought from CC and I’m pretty sure it was rolled around and half-damaged to hell during the drive from their store to my place. So now I need to decide between either keeping this damaged 960 that I may never be able to fix to 100% at about $1000 cost, or buying a new LCD at about $2000, or buying a new 36SX955 for about $1200.

What do you think? I appreciate your replies.

Akuma,
I think only you can be the judge of what you should or shouldn't do. You have to be happy with what is pleasing to "your" eye.
I think this is a nice set, but in no way do I think the picture is spectacular on it.
I do realize you have to compare apples to apples, but in December we purchaced a 61" JVC and that picture is awesome. Going from that to the little Sony screen is like night and day (again, shouldn't compare apples to oranges).
I've recently been looking at some LCD and plasma sets in the size range of the Sony....and I do think they have a nicer picture than the Sony does. If I had to do it over again, I would not purchase the Sony.

Akuma,

I agree with Patsan that only you can be the judge on what to buy, however, from your posts it seems the 960 has many problems, no doubt from being a refurbished unit which the previous owner wasn't happy with either. The 960 is a great set however with all that is wrong with the unit you have if I was in your position and unable to find a new 960 I would be apt to return it and go for a good LCD.

The Displaymate folks have found that LCOS is the first technology to surpass CRT for TV use. (Their report is on the ExtremeTech site and maybe elsewhere.)

However, the actual unit to pull this off and become their new "reference standard" was at the $40K+, studio monitor, level though.

Still, if I was buying a set today, LCOS would be we're I'd start I guess...

I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.
Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??

Anybody else with this problem?

This is completely normal and I am sorry nobody told you before: SD, except for DVDs and some higher bit-rate OTA SD broadcasts just don't look good on an HDTV. Its not just the Sony -- its inherent to this whole endeavor.

Here is the best metaphor I have: imagine taking a twin bed-sheet and stretching over a king-size mattress. On an HDTV you are taking a 720x480 image and stretching it over a 1920x1080 rectangle. Something has to give!

Its like zooming in past 100% on a JPRG on your computer screen. Its not supposed to look good.

One way to see that your SD signal is normal, but just being stretched too far, is to look at the SD program in Twin View or PIP mode. Inside of the smaller box, it looks great. This is because it is being shown on something closer to 720x480.

Actually, I think we are lucky that DVDs look as good as they do on HDTVs. Its kind of a miracle, actually.

Please trust me and tell all of your friends who will listen. Except for DVDs, almost all standard def programming will look much better on a cheaper SD TV. Its just a plain observable fact. And it completely expected and normal. In fact, it makes perfect sense.

-Christopher

I have a question. I hooked a pioneer 480i dvd player via component to my 960. Is the tv doubling the signal to 480p ? When I hit the display button the tv is saying 480i. So am I watching 480i or 480p ? If 480i, how do I get the tv to line-doubled to 480p ?

Here's one for you gents...

So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.

Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?

I have a question. I hooked a pioneer 480i dvd player via component to my 960. Is the tv doubling the signal to 480p ? When I hit the display button the tv is saying 480i. So am I watching 480i or 480p ? If 480i, how do I get the tv to line-doubled to 480p ?


Check your DRC. Interlaced, Progressive, CineMotion. I recommend CM at all times.


See below:
Here's one for you gents...

So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.

Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?


Best guess: Is your TV set to Interlaced, Progressive, or CineMotion?
I could see possibly the Progressive setting causing some lag and maybe even the Interlaced. Here's why:

The Interlaced is taking that signal and trying to convert it to 960i (?)

The Progressive setting would make it 540p.

I didn't care for either one of these when doing any non HD gaming.

The CineMotion setting is the one I use all the time. It will do a nice 3:2 pulldown on film material and is for optimal use but it's also the least...invasive, by my experience. Mess with those three settings and see if it makes any difference or not.

Anyone in minnesota interested in buying a 960? Mine is only been used a few months and in great shape!

Alright I tried using the Svideo for standard def cable to see if it is an improvement over the HDMI. To my surprise it was a little bit better, seemed to sharpen things up but still not what I think standard cable should be. I was trying to comprehend how it is worse than a non-HDTV and I came across this analogy.

This is what I think is the problem (Please guys let me know if I am close) I am going to use a comparison with numbers on a dice being pixels of the TV. Standard def signal is lets say the #1 on a dice for a pixel, the 960 needs to turn that #1 into a #5 with the info its got. The software in the 960's is trying to enhance a terrible signal the best way it can but it ends up looking funny with the SFP tube because of the lack of info.

Does the 970 without the SFP tube look better with a standard def signal because of its lack of resolution?

Another question for the 960 guys, which OPPO player is better with the 960. I am not planning on using any separate line doublers , descalers or DVDO thingys. I just want to hook it up to my 960 and get the best possible picture out of my DVD's. I have read that the cheaper one may be better for this TV for some reason.

I am new to this forum and thread. I have searched to see if the problem I am having is here, but I am not finding it. I am now on my second xbr960N that I purchased at Ultimate Electronics at the beginning of April. Both sets have had the same problem. One was manufactured in December. Its replacement was manufactured in February. Both sets are exhibiting the same problem, which makes me wonder if it is something with my setup. After warmup, the picture tube will either flash white or turn off (I can hear the picture tube making a noise when this happens) for a split second and then go back to normal for anywhere from 5-30 minutes before it flashes/cuts out again. It keeps doing the flashing/cutting out until the set is turned off. The second set seems to do the flashing/cutting out more frequently than the first. I have the Motorola HD cable box attached to Video 5 and a Denon 1920 attached to Video 7, and both of these inputs have the same problem with flashing. I have the XBR3 stand on a carpeted floor about 3 feet away from some planar speakers with large magnets. I already talked with Sony and have done the reset and tried plugging the set directly into the wall and through a surge protector and an isolation transformer. Anyone have any idea what might be going on?

I just had this problem fixed and in the end it was pretty painless. The problem I had was that after about 1 hr (I assume after everything warmed up) the picture would flash very quickly but then come back - this was almost instantaneous but annoying. It would happen randomly from then on at slowly increasing frequency. In my case the repair man came out and said he might have to replace a board. When he did return he had a technical service bulletin that seemed to specifically address this problem (I didn't get the number). Basically it said that the problem was arcing between the pins at the back of the tube where a circuit board plugged in. The fix was technically simple by required careful work. With tweezers and some toothpicks he asked for, he removed the insulation layer (this apparently was the problem - it was not applied properly) around the pins, then applied RTV106 (high temp insulating silicone sealer?) . After letting it dry, the problem was gone. he said this is a pretty common problem apparently. If this had not worked they would have tried a new board and then replaced the CRT. If this ever happens again I could even fix it myself - it was that easy.

Pleased with the Sony Warranty service so far. Only down side - had to keep bugging my neighbor to help move the TV from/to the TV stand!

Here's one for you gents...

So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.

Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?
I use S-V with my PS2 and have never had a problem but I'm not a hardcore gamer and probably not as sensitive to this. CRTs usually have the fastest responce times. There must be a problem with your sets processing the S-V signal. Stick with the component.

This is completely normal and I am sorry nobody told you before: SD, except for DVDs and some higher bit-rate OTA SD broadcasts just don't look good on an HDTV. Its not just the Sony -- its inherent to this whole endeavor.

Here is the best metaphor I have: imagine taking a twin bed-sheet and stretching over a king-size mattress. On an HDTV you are taking a 720x480 image and stretching it over a 1920x1080 rectangle. Something has to give!

Its like zooming in past 100% on a JPRG on your computer screen. Its not supposed to look good.

One way to see that your SD signal is normal, but just being stretched too far, is to look at the SD program in Twin View or PIP mode. Inside of the smaller box, it looks great. This is because it is being shown on something closer to 720x480.

Actually, I think we are lucky that DVDs look as good as they do on HDTVs. Its kind of a miracle, actually.

Please trust me and tell all of your friends who will listen. Except for DVDs, almost all standard def programming will look much better on a cheaper SD TV. Its just a plain observable fact. And it completely expected and normal. In fact, it makes perfect sense.

-Christopher

Hi Chris,

I cannot complain about SD broadcasts at least on the 960 because I've found that upconverting does improve picture quality.

There are many factors that could lower the quality of SD transmissions. On an earlier post I noted my HD box picture output was set to HDMI instead of upcoversion (i.e., the 960 doing the upconversion from a 480I signal coming out the cable box). This also allowed me to make use of the DCR pallete and other advanced video features which improved the picture even further. It does take time to decide on which settings to use (for example, many of us utilize the PRO picture) and it is amazing how different a picture will be with just a slight adjustment of this and that.

Several members have pointed out that the 960 enhances the strong elements but also the poor qualities inherent with standard digital transmissions which are masked by non-HD sets. Hence, poor quality transmissions do look worse on an HD set while good quality broadcasts look better.

And I agree the best test is comparision. I have two home theater systems, the second a very good two year old Toshiba 27 inch non-HD flat screen CRT. Both are fed via the same HD cable box. Comparing a SD channel I do not find a decrease in picture quality on the Sony. In fact, the colors are more vivid.

I have replaced many of my pre-recorded VHS tapes with recordings onto DVD made from non HD stations like Fox, Turner Classic Movies, HBO2, Encore, etc. While not HD, when good prints are used the picture quality is very sharp, colorful and clear (I would not keep them in my collection, otherwise). And the VHS tapes I made prior to purchasing a DVD recorder this past winter look fine on the 960 (despite tape's limited qualities).

And, as many ohers have said, we have simply become spoiled with the tremendous picture found on HD and DVD that anything else becomes a big let down.

Anyone have anything like this happen? We all know that some 960s have a problem turning on. For some unplugging it for a minute or so solves the problem but for me I could miss a whole night's worth of tv watching. So I utilized the warranty's in-home repair and had a technician come to fix the problem. After working on the set he said unfortunately the replacement part he brought was defective and after installing it the set had the same problem. So he put the tv back together with all original parts and said they would re-order the part.

I was disappointed but not too upset. I told him it's not his fault the part was defective. He left and I noticed the standby light was blinking but the set was off. I pressed the power button to turn the set on but it wouldn't come on.

I left and then came back home. Pressed the power button. The tv came back on but now the picture was green tinted! Extremely green and out of focus! I tried to see if maybe my settings were off but that wasn't it. Then I tried to adjust my hue settings anyway. That didn't help. The shop was closed. I called first thing the next morning and they said it was the same defective part, it's all related! I asked if it was a coincidence that this part didn't make my picture green and out of focus until the technician touch my tv. They said all they could do is return with the new part once it arrived and replace it with my defective part. By the way, the part is a DZ board.

Anyway, what do you guys think?

Anyone have anything like this happen? We all know that some 960s have a problem turning on. For some unplugging it for a minute or so solves the problem but for me I could miss a whole night's worth of tv watching. So I utilized the warranty's in-home repair and had a technician come to fix the problem. After working on the set he said unfortunately the replacement part he brought was defective and after installing it the set had the same problem. So he put the tv back together with all original parts and said they would re-order the part.

I was disappointed but not too upset. I told him it's not his fault the part was defective. He left and I noticed the standby light was blinking but the set was off. I pressed the power button to turn the set on but it wouldn't come on.

I left and then came back home. Pressed the power button. The tv came back on but now the picture was green tinted! Extremely green and out of focus! I tried to see if maybe my settings were off but that wasn't it. Then I tried to adjust my hue settings anyway. That didn't help. The shop was closed. I called first thing the next morning and they said it was the same defective part, it's all related! I asked if it was a coincidence that this part didn't make my picture green and out of focus until the technician touch my tv. They said all they could do is return with the new part once it arrived and replace it with my defective part. By the way, the part is a DZ board.

Anyway, what do you guys think?

I think you should try unplugging your set for a minute and then see if it will come back with a normal picture. Had my DZ board replaced twice but for an unrelated problem of the TV shutting off after it warmed up. Hope the DZ board fixes your problem since these TVs are no longer being made. Sony QC is not what it used to be :(

Hi Chris,

I cannot complain about SD broadcasts at least on the 960 because I've found that upconverting does improve picture quality.

There are many factors that could lower the quality of SD transmissions. On an earlier post I noted my HD box picture output was set to HDMI instead of upcoversion (i.e., the 960 doing the upconversion from a 480I signal coming out the cable box). This also allowed me to make use of the DCR pallete and other advanced video features which improved the picture even further.

I wish I could have your experience. I dont think my Dish HD-DVR allows for different output methods for different programming. It all goes out HD over HDMI. So the Dish box must be doing the up-convert. The SD Dish channels are mush. The HD is mostly great.

The only glimpse I have seen of what you are talking about, and I mentioned this before, is on a couple of Over The Air digital SD channels here in L.A. -- like FOX11. It looks watchable and is comparable to an SDTV image.

All I know is, whenever I look at an S-video feed on my old circa 1994 Sony XBR SDTV, I know what good SD should look like. Too bad I gave it away to my friend when I got my XBR960. ;-)

Anyway, the good news for all of us is that this is soon to be a moot point. It'll be HD all the way! In fact, I'm gonna quit bitching and go watch some HD right now! HBO's Deadwood is coming on in HD -- and it rocks!!

-Christopher

I unplugged the set after it didn't turn on initially. After turning it on to see the green monster I've since pulled the plug on it so to speak. I have to otherwise the standby light will keep flashing. I wish it were as simple as that. Also, how is your set after the two DZ board switches? It's a shame so many of these tvs have so many problems. Is there a such thing as sony QC anymore?

Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:

Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).

Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?

Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...

A question for everyone:

I just took delivery of a brand new XBR960 on Sunday. I have heard that this particular set is prone to problems. Once already, I think mine lost the picture for a second. I'm not sure if it was the cable cutting out or the TV though. Prior to this, I was using the 30XS955, and never had any problems. I am wondering if perhaps the 34XS955 is more reliable than the 34XBR960. I don't care about the extra features of the 960...all I want is a trouble free/reliable SFP tube that will last years. Comments? Opinions? Thanks.

I just took delivery of a brand new XBR960 on Sunday. I have heard that this particular set is prone to problems. Comments? Opinions? Thanks.

Depends on your definition of "prone for problems"

If Sony sold 750,000 of these sets and 1000 people had "problems" you have to decide if .13% is prone for problems.

Fortunately for me I'm not part of the .13% therefore, my set is not prone for problems. :)

I've had mine over a year, no problems, and I have it inside a cabinet (in TX) so I know it runs hotter than most. It was manufactured in May or June of 05.

Depends on your definition of "prone for problems"

If Sony sold 750,000 of these sets and 1000 people had "problems" you have to decide if .13% is prone for problems.

Fortunately for me I'm not part of the .13% therefore, my set is not prone for problems. :)

I mean a significantly higher percentage of problems than Sony's other XS955 series. 0.13% vs. 0.26% - I would consider insignificant. 5% vs. 10% - I would consider significant.

I love the PQ on this set, and the increase in size from the 30XS955 makes a big difference. I might want to consider returning this one and getting the 34XS955 instead if it will likely be more reliable.

I mean a significantly higher percentage of problems than Sony's other XS955 series. 0.13% vs. 0.26% - I would consider insignificant. 5% vs. 10% - I would consider significant.

I love the PQ on this set, and the increase in size from the 30XS955 makes a big difference. I might want to consider returning this one and getting the 34XS955 instead if it will likely be more reliable.

Until Sony releases the actual sales numbers and number of service calls anyone who says the set is prone to problems is talking out the side of their neck.

I have the 960 and the 30XS955 both purchased at the same time neither has had a problem. The 960 replaced a 27" XBR purchased in December of 1989 that went to the shop once but is still working fine today. I hope to get the same life out of my 960.

If you're happy with the picture quality of the 960 keep it. But it sounds to me like you're trying to talk yourself out of it for some reason. You can get an XS and it could explode the next day or work for 15 years just like the 960. The choice is yours.

Until Sony releases the actual sales numbers and number of service calls anyone who says the set is prone to problems is talking out the side of their neck.

I know. It's all anecdotal. It just seems that from reading this board, there seem to be more problems with this set than the XS series. Could be pure coincidence.

I have the 960 and the 30XS955 both purchased at the same time neither has had a problem. The 960 replaced a 27" XBR purchased in December of 1989 that went to the shop once but is still working fine today. I hope to get the same life out of my 960.

If you're happy with the picture quality of the 960 keep it. But it sounds to me like you're trying to talk yourself out of it for some reason. You can get an XS and it could explode the next day or work for 15 years just like the 960. The choice is yours.

I'm only concerned because of an apparent picture drop-out that occured yesterday. As I said though, I'm not sure if the cause was the TV or the signal. At any rate, I prefer the look of this set vs. the 34XS955, so I'd prefer to keep it. I also bought it at Best Buy and got a really good deal.

Has anyone else besides JoeKing hooked up the Toshiba hd-dvd player to the 34xbr960? I figured that this could possibly be the absolute best hd experience one could have at 34".

I'm considering a new plasma or lcd, but would sure love to hear more reviews of how the hd-dvd player looks with these tvs. Thanks.

i've had the Toshiba hd dvd player for about a week now. It is awesome!!! this blows away any hd material i receive from Directv and antena. the first time i watched an HD DVD was almost as good as the first time i had the XBR960 set up. the toshiba has great sound, PQ, and the upconverted standard dvds are great too (so far KIng Kong was the best upconverted title for me).
i remember a few posts in the past mentioned the 34" as a waste for HD, hardly any difference would be noticed from dvd to HD. the Toshiba HD DVD player is a great addition to this tv, and i can see the benefit of 1080i with no problem on this great TV.

Well today was the day. My roommate moved out and took the only tv in the house with him. I figured it was time to break the bank and buy a hdtv for the household. I am a long time lurker and have done a few months of research (Thank you everyone for the information). Anyways to make a long story short I am a student on a limited budget and saw that my local BB was having a sale on a 1080p 37" Westinghouse that was in my price range. After 2 hours of playing around with the darn thing I was unsatisfied with the picture quality and the amount of ghosting the set displayed. Even after having the salesmen setup up a dvd player with an hdmi connection I was still unsatisfied with the picture.

In the far back they had their CRT's lined up and I saw an open box 970 sitting on the bottom shelf. After the negotations were done I headed to the checkout register. For whatever reason I thought to ask if any local BB's had any 960's in stock. Low and behold there were 2 left in the area and listed as on hand. Well I had him call up the first BB and ask if the unit was available and to figure out if it was OB or a display. After about 20 minutes he notified me that the unit was brand new and listed at 1199.99. A bit more than the negotiated price of the 970 but I figured what the hell and told him to have it shipped.

The darn thing should be here in a few days (free shipping too!!) I am freaking excited!!! The only question I have regarding this unit is.

What cables to order for my Samsung HD850. I know people have been experiencing artifacting images when using HDMI on lower end dvd players. Would component be a better choice than HDMI for DVD use?

Other than that I can't wait to play with her. I will be ordering a copy of Avia in a week or so pending on how well I can tune the set myself. Anyways thanks in advance for any input given.

...The darn thing should be here in a few days (free shipping too!!) I am freaking excited!!! The only question I have regarding this unit is.

What cables to order for my Samsung HD850. I know people have been experiencing artifacting images when using HDMI on lower end dvd players. Would component be a better choice than HDMI for DVD use?

Other than that I can't wait to play with her. I will be ordering a copy of Avia in a week or so pending on how well I can tune the set myself. Anyways thanks in advance for any input given.
Congrats on the new tv and welcome to the AVS Forum! ;)

The 850 will only upscale the picture in HDMI mode. I tried the Samsung "850"upconverting player with my Sony set and found it exhibited black crush (details in the shadows lost). I was unable to mitigate this so I returned the player. In its place I purchased the Oppo OPDV971H upscaling DVD Player. What a fantastic player, especially for $200.

Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:

Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).

Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?

Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...
I use this combination and find there's actually little difference between setting the 6412 at 1080i or 720p. I did notice slightly better PQ with 1080i for sports, so that's where I leave it. I recommend using component cables with the 6412, reather than HDMI. Many users have found the PQ with the HDMI interface to be of lower PQ, and also have found the implementation of HDMI on this box to have problems. Fo details look to the appropriate section on AVS for HD receivers.

Ok, so there is an XBR960 at CC for $699 open Box, says it has everything and works fine, just Open Box. Should I buy this TV??? I was looking for a tube HDTV because I just dont think and LCD or Plasma are going to cut it for my eyes. CC had a 34XBR961 (I think that was it) for like $1100 then I saw the 960 for $699. I take it the 960 has no QAM, maybe buy an add on QAM tuner. Anyway, what do you all think? I tried reading as much of this thread as possible, but I cant wait 2 weeks to read all 145 pages:)

EDIT: I'm an idiot, just read the first specs page again, seems it does have QAM:)

Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:

Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).

Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?

Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...

I found upconversion by the 960 slightly better than using the upconvert options on our SA 8300 HD DVR. Same holds true for our progressive scan DVD Player - we keep it at 4801.

Ok, so there is an XBR960 at CC for $699 open Box, says it has everything and works fine, just Open Box. Should I buy this TV??? I was looking for a tube HDTV because I just dont think and LCD or Plasma are going to cut it for my eyes. CC had a 34XBR961 (I think that was it) for like $1100 then I saw the 960 for $699. I take it the 960 has no QAM, maybe buy an add on QAM tuner. Anyway, what do you all think? I tried reading as much of this thread as possible, but I cant wait 2 weeks to read all 145 pages:)

EDIT: I'm an idiot, just read the first specs page again, seems it does have QAM:)

There are a few factors to consider since Sony no longer produces the 960.

By "open box" does Circuit City mean refurbished? If so, would avoid taking over a set that was a problem for the original owner. If a display model, who knows how long it was used and if the lifespan of the tube was affected by store settings constantly at high contrast/color levels.

There are no KD34XBR961s. If the $1,100 unit is an XBR960 that is new in box go for it. It would be worth the extra $400 plus tax.

There are a few factors to consider since Sony no longer produces the 960.

By "open box" does Circuit City mean refurbished? If so, would avoid taking over a set that was a problem for the original owner. If a display model, who knows how long it was used and if the lifespan of the tube was affected by store settings constantly at high contrast/color levels.

There are no KD34XBR961s. If the $1,100 unit is an XBR960 that is new in box go for it. It would be worth the extra $400 plus tax.

I'll take that into consideration, but $400 of a $1000 TV is nothing to scoff at. I'm confused as to why people are so worried about the lifespans of tubes now, have they started making them differently? I've had my same CRT since 1996 and it still looks fine. It still has a 30 day money back so I think I will try the Open Box and see what I think, if I hate it I can always return it. After 30 days I should be able to see any defects, and it still has a 12 month manufct. warranty.

I recommend using component cables with the 6412, reather than HDMI. Many users have found the PQ with the HDMI interface to be of lower PQ, and also have found the implementation of HDMI on this box to have problems.The Moto is currently connected via component. I had also read of HDMI issues, with the audio, if I recall correctly.

I found upconversion by the 960 slightly better than using the upconvert options on our SA 8300 HD DVR. Same holds true for our progressive scan DVD Player - we keep it at 4801.I definitely have my el cheapo DVD player set so the the XBR960 does the upconverting of the DVD signal.

It's less obvious to me with the Motorola 6412 pIII HD DVR as to which signal to pass through natively (and convert the other) and which signal to let the XBR960 convert.

Which resolution conversion is more demanding of a scaler? Taking 720p and changing it to 1080i or taking 1080i and changing it to 720p ...


6412 records programs at whatever resolution they come in at: 720p and 1080i

6412 can be set to output 720p or 1080i

So the 6412 will be either passing 720p and converting 1080i to 720p
or
the 6412 will be converting 720p to 1080i and passing 1080i.


Both the 6412 and the XBR960 are "expensive" boxes and with no electronics background on my part I have to idea as to which one might have the better scaler for either or both resolutions.

I was thinking that with the paucity of HD recorders out there, a fair number of XBR960 owners might have the Moto 6412pIII.

I guess I will order a HDMI cable and hope for the best. Thanks again Justsc I really appreciate it.

Well, I echo many folks complaints about this model. SONY's QC is hell bound. I have seen others having problems turning on their TV. It happened to me a few days ago all of a sudden after 10 months of fun. The standby light is flashing (7 times then pause, repeat). Power cycling didn't work.

It's almost $2000 from CC and that's the best SONY can offer. I wouldn't recommend others to buy this unit. It's just not worth it going through all this trouble for a TV.

Anyhow, now I believe this particular model has a much higher rate of failure, likely higher than a few percents. SONY won't admit it. But someone should call some lawyers and file some class action lawsuit. My guess is that they have over-engineered the super fine pitch technology, which is NOT a reliable technology probably. It works sometimes, and has a high failure rate due to challenging power demand and requirement. No wonder this model is discontinued after a short life.

I definitely have my el cheapo DVD player set so the the XBR960 does the upconverting of the DVD signal.

It's less obvious to me with the Motorola 6412 pIII HD DVR as to which signal to pass through natively (and convert the other) and which signal to let the XBR960 convert.

Which resolution conversion is more demanding of a scaler? Taking 720p and changing it to 1080i or taking 1080i and changing it to 720p ...


6412 records programs at whatever resolution they come in at: 720p and 1080i

6412 can be set to output 720p or 1080i

So the 6412 will be either passing 720p and converting 1080i to 720p
or
the 6412 will be converting 720p to 1080i and passing 1080i.


Both the 6412 and the XBR960 are "expensive" boxes and with no electronics background on my part I have to idea as to which one might have the better scaler for either or both resolutions.

I was thinking that with the paucity of HD recorders out there, a fair number of XBR960 owners might have the Moto 6412pIII.

Hi Ladd,

I experimented with upconversion through my HD DVR at both 720P and 1080i but found the non-hd stations a slightly bit better leaving the box at 480i (for non-HD, of course) and letting the 960 do the upconversion. Once the 960 receives a progressive scan signal of any kind (480P or 720P) it accepts the upconverted signal as is. Of course, you might find SD looking better through use of your Motorola than I did with my SA 8300 HD DVR. Best to compare how a good SD signal looks with each.

- Joe

Well, I echo many folks complaints about this model. SONY's QC is hell bound. I have seen others having problems turning on their TV. It happened to me a few days ago all of a sudden after 10 months of fun. The standby light is flashing (7 times then pause, repeat). Power cycling didn't work.

It's almost $2000 from CC and that's the best SONY can offer. I wouldn't recommend others to buy this unit. It's just not worth it going through all this trouble for a TV.

Anyhow, now I believe this particular model has a much higher rate of failure, likely higher than a few percents. SONY won't admit it. But someone should call some lawyers and file some class action lawsuit. My guess is that they have over-engineered the super fine pitch technology, which is NOT a reliable technology probably. It works sometimes, and has a high failure rate due to challenging power demand and requirement. No wonder this model is discontinued after a short life.

Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems. I've been in the market for a longgg time for a new HDTV and if all I did was read threads here on TVs I would have to come to the comclusion that every TV on the market right now has a 50% failure rate. The VAST majority of people who own this TV are not on this board. This is still in fact one of the best PQ HDTV's ever made, and some are willing to go through some hassle to get such a great picture.

That being said I just bought one and am knocking on wood right now that when I get it home it works. If it doesnt then I will probably be back in this thread telling you how right you were :)

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?
Mine is dead right now...waiting for a new board. Turns off by itself and I have 7 flashes, then a pause, then 7 flashes, etc.
Got mine 9/04.

Mine is dead right now...waiting for a new board. Turns off by itself and I have 7 flashes, then a pause, then 7 flashes, etc.
Got mine 9/04.

Were there problems/glitches that led up to complete failure, or did you have trouble free performance and then sudden failure?

Were there problems/glitches that led up the complete failure, or did you have trouble free performance and sudden failure?
Trouble free before this. Turned it off one night a few weeks ago, and it had a funny sound as it turned off. The following morning, I turned it on, and the picture looked funny (not the usual color)..then after about 30 seconds the screen turned bright orange, a vertical line in the center of the screen and it shut off.
I tried this a few times with the exact same thing happening. Then I noticed the 7 flashes on the front of the set.
The rest is history. I have to call the place today to find out where the heck the part is......

[QUOTE=Amiable-Akuma]Okay, well, now after having actually put it on it's new finally-assembled stand and turned it on - the TV doesn't work at all. My wife was the one who drove it home from CC and she said that she thinks she broke it by letting it roll all around the back of her SUV (god help me).

QUOTE]


It would be the guillotine for her if she were my wife

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?

In two weeks it will be exactly 2 years of owning my 960. I only have some mild geometry issues that are barely noticeable and from what I understand, are quite common in CRTs of this size. I'll get that taken care of with a full professional calibration as soon as I upgrade to the newer HD formats. No other problems whatsover.

I experimented with upconversion through my HD DVR at both 720P and 1080i but found the non-hd stations a slightly bit better leaving the box at 480i (for non-HD, of course) and letting the 960 do the upconversion. You bring up an valid point in considering options -- one that doesn't actually affect me but might other folks looking for wisdom.

I watch essentially zero SD programming via the Motoroal 6412 pIII HD DRV, so that considering the quality of 480i output/viewing wouldn't enter into my equation of trying to figure out if 780p or 1080i output is better for the XBR960. But I very much appreciate you bringing up a consideration that might be important to other folks.

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?


Mine is two years old this month. Wonderful set--never a problem, other than an initial service call for--you guessed it--the geometry. Of course, somehow I let them talk me into buying the extended warranty.

My frustration is my cataract--but I hope to fix that problem later this month!

Mark

I have a XBR960 and I have overscanning issues. Could someone assist me in correcting them? I need to bring the top and bottom as well as the left and right in a few notches and it'll be perfect. Thanks in advance.

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?

And this knowledge will benefit us in what way? :)

Until some one can get the actual number of sets sold these blind surveys do nothing but cause baseless speculation.

Every owner whose set has failed has a valid complaint against Sony. The question then becomes a) did Sony take care of the problem with minimal hassel and downtime or b) did they string the owner along with band-aid solutions rather than fix the problem?

If a) then accept the fact that no manufactured product is perfect and some will fail but the company stood behind it and rectified the situation.

If b) then Sony sucks and prove it to them by spending your hard earned dollars elsewhere.

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?
I have had mine for almost two years with absolutely no problems. I did touch up the convergence in the corners after owning it a couple of months.

Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems. I've been in the market for a longgg time for a new HDTV and if all I did was read threads here on TVs I would have to come to the comclusion that every TV on the market right now has a 50% failure rate. The VAST majority of people who own this TV are not on this board. This is still in fact one of the best PQ HDTV's ever made, and some are willing to go through some hassle to get such a great picture.

That being said I just bought one and am knocking on wood right now that when I get it home it works. If it doesnt then I will probably be back in this thread telling you how right you were :)


I thought the way when I bought it as you now. I thought well, SONY was a great brand, I didn't give much thoughts baout what many others have experienced. Good luck man. I hope yours lasts, but u know the record isn't good. I am very pissed off right now. Now I think about it, if this thing is really that reliable and great, why did they discontinued it in a rush?

There are as many people who have this power-on pronblem but do not know about this or other internet boards as people who don't have problem but know about this board. In short, it evens out. There are too many people having problems.

BTW, mine was made on August 8, 2005, barely a month before I bought it from CC.

You bring up an valid point in considering options -- one that doesn't actually affect me but might other folks looking for wisdom.

I watch essentially zero SD programming via the Motoroal 6412 pIII HD DRV, so that considering the quality of 480i output/viewing wouldn't enter into my equation of trying to figure out if 780p or 1080i output is better for the XBR960. But I very much appreciate you bringing up a consideration that might be important to other folks.

Hi Ladd,

Thank you for the nice words.

- Joe

Mine is two years old this month. Wonderful set--never a problem, other than an initial service call for--you guessed it--the geometry. Of course, somehow I let them talk me into buying the extended warranty.

My frustration is my cataract--but I hope to fix that problem later this month!

Mark

Hi Mark,

My cataracts started to act up the same time I got my 960 (a year ago). The first one was removed in December and the other is scheduled to be removed next month. If this is the first time for you, don't worry at all about the procedure - it's quick, simple, painless and free of any discomfort. You will be amazed with the clarity of vision once it's gone.

Be warned, however, that after the procedure you will experience frustration...., with my better vision I found the settings for my 960 were way off, especially for picture. brightness and DCR pallete.

- Joe

A question for everyone:

How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?

Had my 960 for a year and after two weeks I had to unplug the set to get the picture on. Sony Customer Service advised me to plug the set directly into the wall socket and avoid use of a surge protector (the 960 needs a tremendous amount of power to properly degause when turned on and this is limited by surge protectors). Since that time this problem re-occured only once, and there was no affect on picture quality whatsoever. I'm completely happy with the 960 and would recommend it to anyone who can still get it new in box. :)

Had my 960 for a year and after two weeks I had to unplug the set to get the picture on. Sony Customer Service advised me to plug the set directly into the wall socket and avoid use of a surge protector (the 960 needs a tremendous amount of power to properly degause when turned on and this is limited by surge protectors). Since that time this problem re-occured only once, and there was no affect on picture quality whatsoever. I'm completely happy with the 960 and would recommend it to anyone who can still get it new in box. :)

Thanks for the detailed response. I'm using a surge protector (PURE AV PF60), and haven't had that happen yet.

Another question for everyone:

When turning on the set, how many times does the red light blink before you get a picture? Mine does it 10, but sometimes also 11 times, which seems weird. Shouldn't it be 10 blinks each time?

I have a XBR960 and I have overscanning issues. Could someone assist me in correcting them? I need to bring the top and bottom as well as the left and right in a few notches and it'll be perfect. Thanks in advance.


I bookmarked these posts, but never got around to messing with the settings.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7057568&&#post7057568

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6723557&&#post6723557

Good luck.

Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.

Hi Mark,

Be warned, however, that after the procedure you will experience frustration...., with my better vision I found the settings for my 960 were way off, especially for picture. brightness and DCR pallete.

- Joe


Hi, Joe. Thanks for the good wishes and encouragement! I think I will enjoy the set a lot more with clearer vision!

Thanks again,

Mark

Ok all, just plugged in my new 960 for the first time and I got an issue. I plugged in my cable connection this morning and let it do the auto program for analog and digital channels. Came home and it had found quite a few channels. But I dont see any HD channels and the regular SD channels looks VERY bad. The colors are "wavy" and super blocky. So I tried going thru my cable box instead and the picture is fine that way. . . what gives? Is the tuner screwed on this thing or maybe my signal strength isnt what is needed for this box? Thanks all I cant return this thing w/o a ton of hassle so I hope I can get it working. . . guess there is always the warranty option.

There are as many people who have this power-on pronblem but do not know about this or other internet boards as people who don't have problem but know about this board. In short, it evens out. There are too many people having problems.


Yet another statistically valid survey. :rolleyes:

Well the TV (tuner?) seems to have fixed itself I watched TV all last night and the weird color problem was gone. Maybe I just had a loose cable connection or something. I must say, SDTV looks pretty damn good on this set. Even the Wide Zoom mode kept the picture looking very nice. It added a slight bit of overscan, but I can live with that on just everyday TV.

Is there something special I need to do to get QAM working? I did a channel scan yesterday, should I try do to it again? I'm not even really sure how you find the QAM channels, should they just show up when I am flipping through the channels? Thanks all.

Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.

Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.

Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.

I have the Sony stand, it looks great with the TV but it is expensive.

It comes with the one glass shelve but if you put it in its lowest spot you can stack a few components, for around fifty buck more you can purchase an additional shelf (if you don't want to stack). For the money they charge for this stand the additional shelf should be included.

After I purchased it from Crutchfield I came across this post.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8074743#post8074743

Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.

I agree with the stand being to low. Because the TV is very heavy and I have it placed in a corner and accessing the back is a pain in the butt. I went to the Po and purchased five casters((3) locking for the front, and (2) non-locking for the back). I can pull it away from the corner and make any connections I want then roll it back in. Along with improving the mobility of the TV it also elevated it up a few inches more and now the height is fine.

An interesting story about my 34XBR960N with a repair/cost question at the end...

In March of this year I purchased a 34XBR960N from an online retailer. At the same time I purchased a television stand at a local retailer that was rated to hold 220 lbs. The TV comes in at 196 lbs so I figured it was safe enough. I was wrong. About a month later I came home to find the broken television stand and the TV laying face down on the floor. I picked it up and found the four corners smashed in slightly. Not aesthetically pleasing but not that big of deal to me. The TV still powers on and works fine except for one thing... some colors along the left hand side of the screen now display incorrectly.

I contacted the local retailer and showed them pictures of the damaged TV. To my surprise, they soon after quickly refunded me the full cost of the stand that broke AND the total amount that I paid for the TV and the accompanying extended warranty. I'm very pleased with the way that they handled it.

I next contacted the online retailer to see if there was anything in addition that could be done about the damage through the warranty. I was told that all issues had to go through Sony for the first year that I owned the TV. The extended warranty did not kick in until after Sony's warranty expired. I contacted Sony and they gave me the number of a local Sony repair shop. As I expected, falls from faulty television stands are not covered.

The local repair shop said that within CRT tubes there is a very thin film of a tin foil like substance that is spot welded to the tube. During falls, spot welds can fail and the tin foil can become detached. This is what they told me causes the discoloration. I was told that there is nothing that can be done short of replacing the tube. Is that really true? I was also told that the damaged corners of the television could affect the ability of the TV shell to support the heavy tube so the plastic face plate might need to be replaced as well. The estimated repair costs I was given are:

o New tube = $991.78
o New face plate = $197.92
o Tax = $77.33
o Recycling fee = $50
o Labor = $299
o Shipping fee for parts = $130
o TOTAL = $1746.03

This pretty much comes close to the cost of a brand new XBR960N!!! Unfortunately, these televisions are no longer being sold. Does the repair estimate seem far too high or is this reasonable? They also said that I would have to deliver the TV to their shop. They would not come to my home.

Any words of wisdom or advice?

I've attached three photos of the damage.

I may just elect to deal with the discoloration until I can pick up a SED TV in a few years.

Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.


Here's the link again:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-TV-Stand-23541S-/sem/rpsm/oid/69535/catOid/-12892/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

I've had it a year now and I'm extremely satisfied with it. If you are setting it up on carpet, do youself a favor and go to Kmart and look for the set of 8" Super Sliders for $10. They really work well if you need to move the unit to make connections or clean behind it. The instructions for the sliders do say they work on hardwood floors as well, I just don't have any personal experience with it.Good luck.

Here is my 2 cents about build quality on my XBR960N.

Its fine. Had it for 6 months and no major problems at all. Not a one.

There ARE some tweaks that are needed to satisfy my finicky taste (black crush, RGB convergence, ect.) so I hope to learn the hidden Service Menu.

-Christopher

I found two "open box" 960s at my local CC. One of them has a scratched CRT, so that one's out. These are the only two 960s anywhere within 100 miles apparently, as BB has zero of any kind.
The other has some dings on the cabinet, but the CRT is fine. The big problem with this one is the convergence is quite noticeably out....horizontally only. That's the only obvious flaw....even the purity looks fine.
I've never had one of these sets, so I haven' had a chance to find out what is in the menus.
Is this kind of convergence fairly easy to do from the service menus? I work in broadcast television, so I'm familiar with the principles of convergence...I even have some test signal generators I could use externally if there is nothing internal to the set for this purpose.
This is a special weekend here in VA, as it's tax free weekend on some items, but CC is giving the discount on everything in the store.
These two open box 960s are marked $769.....a pretty decent price from what I've seen. I'm just concerned about ever getting it into satisfactory convergence....if I can't do it myself.
Anyone have any experience doing this? Should I get this thing?? Gotta decide pretty quick....
thanks

I contacted the local retailer and showed them pictures of the damaged TV. To my surprise, they soon after quickly refunded me the full cost of the stand that broke AND the total amount that I paid for the TV and the accompanying extended warranty. I'm very pleased with the way that they handled it.

Any words of wisdom or advice?

I've attached three photos of the damage.

I may just elect to deal with the discoloration until I can pick up a SED TV in a few years.

A few years is a long time to watch a TV with that kind of picture.

Since you got a full refund and have nothing to loose so to speak I'd pull the cover off and try and adjust/duct tape/do whatever to get the tin back in place.

Here's the link again:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-TV-Stand-23541S-/sem/rpsm/oid/69535/catOid/-12892/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

I've had it a year now and I'm extremely satisfied with it. If you are setting it up on carpet, do youself a favor and go to Kmart and look for the set of 8" Super Sliders for $10. They really work well if you need to move the unit to make connections or clean behind it. The instructions for the sliders do say they work on hardwood floors as well, I just don't have any personal experience with it.Good luck.

Thats a nice price for the stand. Its a copy of the Bell'O design (AVSC-2103) which I have that cost nearly 3x as much, but it holds up the xbr960 nicely.

I found two "open box" 960s at my local CC. One of them has a scratched CRT, so that one's out. These are the only two 960s anywhere within 100 miles apparently, as BB has zero of any kind.
The other has some dings on the cabinet, but the CRT is fine. The big problem with this one is the convergence is quite noticeably out....horizontally only. That's the only obvious flaw....even the purity looks fine.
I've never had one of these sets, so I haven' had a chance to find out what is in the menus.
Is this kind of convergence fairly easy to do from the service menus? I work in broadcast television, so I'm familiar with the principles of convergence...I even have some test signal generators I could use externally if there is nothing internal to the set for this purpose.
This is a special weekend here in VA, as it's tax free weekend on some items, but CC is giving the discount on everything in the store.
These two open box 960s are marked $769.....a pretty decent price from what I've seen. I'm just concerned about ever getting it into satisfactory convergence....if I can't do it myself.
Anyone have any experience doing this? Should I get this thing?? Gotta decide pretty quick....
thanks

Yes, horizontal convergence is relatively easy to fix via service menu adjustments. Vertical convergence can only be fixed with magnets.

Another question:

Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.

Another question:

Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.


Not here.

Another question:

Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.

No such noise here either.

What if you put your head up the back or side of the set? Do you hear anything?

What if you put your head up the back or side of the set? Do you hear anything?

I can hear a *very* faint buzzing sound if i put my ear up to one of the side vents, but i had to shut everything else off in my room to hear it and I cant hear it sitting in front of the TV, Even up close.

Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems.


Until some one can get the actual number of sets sold these blind surveys do nothing but cause baseless speculation.

Every owner whose set has failed has a valid complaint against Sony. The question then becomes a) did Sony take care of the problem with minimal hassel and downtime or b) did they string the owner along with band-aid solutions rather than fix the problem?

If a) then accept the fact that no manufactured product is perfect and some will fail but the company stood behind it and rectified the situation.

If b) then Sony sucks and prove it to them by spending your hard earned dollars elsewhere.

The head of Service for the State of Florida for Tweeter admitted to me 18 months ago that this set was known for having problems.

This was after they replaced 2 910s and after they replaced the first 960. We went through the warehouse through 4 new in box units until we found a 960 that the convergence could be made right through the service menu. Final adjustment was done in home. I have no idea what happened to the other sets - I don't want to know.

Fact is, they wanted to credit me what I paid towards another set - so he had no reason to not be upfront about it. Quite frankly, he did not want to keep sending 960s out to my house that could not be setup properly (and I assue you I was in no way speaking something being off 1 pixel).