Hi all,

Made the comparision test between HDMI and component this evening and, at least from my vantage, the HDMI picture was stronger with better punch. There was something just lacking with the component picture.

But as one member said today, it also depends upon the cable box, etc. so I do not wish to discourage anyone who is more satisified with component. For example, I found the HD-DVR box provided better picture quality than the standard HD box; when a problem developed with the DVR I had to return it and temporarily use a standard HD box -- I immediately saw a decrease in picture and could not wait to go back to DVR. So there are differences in cable boxes!

Used the INHD test patterns stored on the HD-DVR. I immediately noticed a drop in quality on the picture, brightness and color patterns, no matter how the 960's settings were adjusted. For actual video I used the DVR's rewind function to compare the same exact picture when switching between the two inputs. Also tried different picture outputs from the cable box and thought the upconversion option helped improve the component picture (whereas it doesn't with HDMI) but not enough to warrant changing inputs.

Non HD signals also seemed slightly softer but this could be attributed to not experimenting with palette settings. Increasing the sharpness or edge enhancement to compensate for this caused HD pictures to become grainy.

Will admit I have an $80 dollar HDMI cable which had to be a factor and the component cables used were not nearly as expensive but much better than those included with video equipment.

It might simply be that the difference we find in picture quality comes down to 1) one having invested in an expensive HDMI cable versus component or vice versa, 2) the quality of the box provided by the server, or 3) a combination of both.

Thanks once more to everybody who responded my question and again please do not take what I found to mean that those using component are wrong with their findings.

Please let me know what you think of my conclusions regarding possible differences.

Ciao,
Joe

My intention is not to open up a big debate here, but isn't there some merit to the question of the quality of a cable carrying a digital signal being irrelevant? Digital is digital - it either gets through or it doesn't. I think that some people are making a lot of money charging $80+ for a cable by misleading us into believing that signal quality varies with the cable quality. There must be tests that have been done on this - anyone have any definitive info?

My intention is not to open up a big debate here, but isn't there some merit to the question of the quality of a cable carrying a digital signal being irrelevant? Digital is digital - it either gets through or it doesn't. I think that some people are making a lot of money charging $80+ for a cable by misleading us into believing that signal quality varies with the cable quality. There must be tests that have been done on this - anyone have any definitive info?It is a matter of getting that signal through without any "noise". Do you want a cable that delivers a few extra 1s or 0s that shouldn't be there? Not the same, but similar to using 16ga vs 12ga speaker wire. Any cable is a freeway for the signal, you don't want any cross traffic or merging lanes. Only you can choose what is appropriate for you in dollars, quality or visually. With HDMI, you have video and sound signals in the same bundle plus HDCP/EDID handshake signals.

I've noticed that OTA HD usually looks better directly on the 960 tuner and not through the DVR, not sure why.

The DVR is adding a layer of compression to the signal, as you can pause and record its already gone through a frame buffer, so the signal is not as pure. I bought this TV for NASACR, very high speed, colorful, lots of diagonals on banked ractetracks, horror show for any compression algorithm - looks great OTA NP. Also, my god the Fiesta Bowl and the playoffs in HD, just amazing on this television. No motion blur or artifacting at all like crappy LCD.

I'm generally in the school of thought that if the 1s and 0s get from point A to point B, there can't be any difference in video quality between two different hdmi cables. That being said, I know nothing of how garbled or undetectable bits are handled with an HDMI interface. I would guess that if an hdmi cable is of such poor quality that the data is being corrupted, that would certainly have an impact on the analog video output of the HDMI receiver. What form it would take, I haven't the foggiest idea.

Hi Raoul,

I found more expensive cables produce better results than standard. Noticed significant improvement in audio when monster-type speaker wire replaced the 16 gauge (?) I had been using. The same applied to the audio cable used for my CD changer. I do not believe, however, that the most expensive cable available (video or audio) would yield any significant improvement over ones selling for a little less and that the extra cost is indeed overkill. There was a HDMI cable of the same brand and length selling for around $120 but I purchased one going for $80. I doubt the difference would be equivalent to a $10 HDMI versus the one I settled on. But there is better quality to be found when investing a little extra in the cables to be used.

Ciao,
Joe

I'm generally in the school of thought that if the 1s and 0s get from point A to point B, there can't be any difference in video quality between two different hdmi cables. That being said, I know nothing of how garbled or undetectable bits are handled with an HDMI interface. I would guess that if an hdmi cable is of such poor quality that the data is being corrupted, that would certainly have an impact on the analog video output of the HDMI receiver. What form it would take, I haven't the foggiest idea.

I did some reading on this today. Turns out there is no error correction at all built into the transmission spec used by DVI/HDMI. The spec does use methods to try and reduce interference, and increase odds of proper sync and data reconstruction, but there is nothing in it to let it know when the data has become corrupted.

Here is more discussion: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/dvihdmicomponent.htm

My advice however would still be to at least start out with the cheapest cable you can find, because either it will work basically perfect or you will have noticeable problems like "sparklies" when pixel data is becoming corrupted to the wrong color, or even loss of picture altogether if the two ends of the cable can't sync properly.

If you're not noticing any sparklies, then adding a $80 or $120 cable will do absolutely nothing extra. It is not possible to make the picture "sharper", "cleaner", etc if all the pixel data is already making it to the TV using a cheaper cable. It would be very obvious if you were seeing sparklies, we aren't talking about something subtle.

The second attempt to repair was to replace the CRT! Got it back - same exact problem. I don't think the techs are going to fix this.

I did some reading on this today. Turns out there is no error correction at all built into the transmission spec used by DVI/HDMI. The spec does use methods to try and reduce interference, and increase odds of proper sync and data reconstruction, but there is nothing in it to let it know when the data has become corrupted.

Here is more discussion: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/dvihdmicomponent.htm

My advice however would still be to at least start out with the cheapest cable you can find, because either it will work basically perfect or you will have noticeable problems like "sparklies" when pixel data is becoming corrupted to the wrong color, or even loss of picture altogether if the two ends of the cable can't sync properly.

If you're not noticing any sparklies, then adding a $80 or $120 cable will do absolutely nothing extra. It is not possible to make the picture "sharper", "cleaner", etc if all the pixel data is already making it to the TV using a cheaper cable. It would be very obvious if you were seeing sparklies, we aren't talking about something subtle.
So the advantages of more expensive HDMI cables is not better picture quality but more protection against losing sync, sparklies and interference. Makes sense. Less expensive cables are prone to breakage and signal interference. So unless I am concerned about durability I overpaid for my HDMI (nothing I can do about it now, anyway).

Having read another article on the link you provided it seems the same principles apply to component cable so it didn't matter what I used as long as they worked properly. Therefore, finding (at least with my HD DVR) that HDMI provided stronger HD images had nothing to do with using component cables that were much less expensive. Guess it's just the combination of the 960 and the box.

Thanks for the info,
Joe

As you probably read, I didn't use expensive cables when comparing component to HDMI so would the same principles apply to component cable?

Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable


If so, then it didn't matter what cables I used as long as they were working properly. Therefore, my finding the HDMI providing a stronger HD image had nothing to do with the component cables being less expensive.

It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.

I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.

Be more specific, what exactly of what I said don't you think is right? Or all of it?

You don't think LCDs are individually controllable pixel-based displays? Well read up on active matrix LCDs, because they are. There is a refresh cycle used to gain this total control over each pixel in the display, but this is unrelated to the kind of video signaling used in analog video formats.

You don't think HDMI contains a digital pixel-based representation of the video image? Read up on HDMI. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI

You don't think an LCD can take that HDMI data and display it directly on its pixel matrix without having to convert it to an analog format? Here is an old Anandtech review - scroll down to page 3 where it talks about "the importance of being digital". This explains how DVI (and later HDMI) solved the quality problem of D -> A -> D conversions, and provides a direct Digital -> Digital path with no analog involved:

http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=1757

You don't think a pixel-based display device has to digitize an incoming analog signal into a pixel-based digital format before it can display it? Well besides the anandtech article, here is an old article from circa 1997 discussing how it's necessary to digitize RGB inputs for use on LCDs:

http://www.analog.com/en/content/0,2886,760%255F%255F6963,00.html

Another mention of digital TVs containing analog -> digital chips for analog inputs:

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Showpage.asp?Filename=analog.oct2006.html

I got the impression that you were implying that these things were the reason component looks better on the analog 960 compared to HDMI.

As far as I know, there is no reason why any conversion either from analog to digital or vice versa, that if implemented properly, will result in any significant or material loss of quality and/or clarity. I think there is a flaw with the 960s conversion process of the digital signal that is causing the artificial softening effect, and not the very technical nature of what such a conversion entails.

Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable




It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.

I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.I make Canare RGBHV and Component cables and have always had good component video. I just recently went from cheap HDMI-DVI cables (supplied with STB) to Gefen cables and noticed an improvement.

Some STB units just perform better on one or the other output formats, doesn't really matter what cables you use in that situation.

Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable




It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.

I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.

According to that article, the better component cables protect against video noise, signal interference, ghosting, etc. Did not encounter these problems with my test so the cables were fine. It was just that the HD picture lacked the punch of my HDMI feed. Forgot to mention I used the same cables connected to a DVD player and have no problems with picture quality.

Just my own perspective and again, not meant to discourage anyone from using component if that's what they prefere. As stated earlier, the cable box is probably the deciding factor more than the cable itslef.

In your case it sounds like the cable box is the deciding factor. According to Chad B., who is highly respected around here, the increased clarity of component can be objectively shown with test patterns, which indicates that it shouldn't be a subjective judgement. Go figure.

In your case it sounds like the cable box is the deciding factor. According to Chad B., who is highly respected around here, the increased clarity of component can be objectively shown with test patterns, which indicates that it shouldn't be a subjective judgement. Go figure.

After reading all the posts I agree the box probably is the deciding factor and the reason why this forum is split regarding HDMI and component. We subscribe to Cablevision in New York City and use a Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300 HD-DVR and, as mentioned earlier, there definately is a stronger picture with the 8300 than the box we used before going DVR.

I also recall NOT noticing much difference between component and DVI while using that first box (when getting the 960 we had both feeds hooked up). That box only had DVI and was maybe an older unit.

Seems reasonable, because all HD tuners are not built the same.

Is there any difference that you guys know of between the 34XBR960 and the 34XS955, because I can get an open boxed 34XS955 for 879.99 and am just wandering if there are any noticeable differences between the two. It sounds like a great deal to me. What do you guys think?

There is no difference in picture quality between the 955 and 960 - they both use the exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube. I believe the 960 has a few features the 955 does not have like picture in picture and something else.

I believe the 955 is lacking a FireWire port as well.

-CJ

Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable




It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.

I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.
I wish a 3rd party would come up with a highly shieled adapter that would let me use my own quality component cables from the XBOX360 to my Sony XBR960, instead of the very thin MS/Monster ones-or eve some extra interference :( shielding that could be wrapped around the MS/Monster ones

After reading all the posts I agree the box probably is the deciding factor and the reason why this forum is split regarding HDMI and component. We subscribe to Cablevision in New York City and use a Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300 HD-DVR and, as mentioned earlier, there definately is a stronger picture with the 8300 than the box we used before going DVR.

I also recall NOT noticing much difference between component and DVI while using that first box (when getting the 960 we had both feeds hooked up). That box only had DVI and was maybe an older unit.

Seems reasonable, because all HD tuners are not built the same.

Well, I have Cablevision too, and use the SA Explorer 4200HD box. Component is equally clearer as it is with my HD-DVD player.

Well, I have Cablevision too, and use the SA Explorer 4200HD box. Component is equally clearer as it is with my HD-DVD player.

Glad to know my recollection was accurate about not noticing much difference between the two when using the HD4200. Of course, the HD4200 yielded a beautiful picture but we twice exchanged it for a HD8300-DVR and both times immediately noticed better HD quality using the same 960 settings as before.

I've also noticed many in the forum prefer OTA over cable and/or satellite so the type of tuner provided by the cable company and how it is set is very important. Which picture output do you use on the SA? We use auto-HDMI which allows the 960 to do the upconversion rather than the cable box (the Sony yields better results).

BTW - we went back to a HD4200 because the copy protection device on a newly purchased DVD recorder kicked in and a cablevision representative thought this was due to copies having already been made on the DVR's hard drive. It still occured on the HD4200 and we eventually discovered there was a copy protection defect in Toshiba DVD recorders so we exchanged it for a Panasonic (no copy protection problems at all).

Thanks for your thoughts.
Joe

There is no difference in picture quality between the 955 and 960 - they both use the exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube. I believe the 960 has a few features the 955 does not have like picture in picture and something else.

Actually I believe this is incorrect.

As I recall, the XS line used the same Super Fine Pitch tube that the previous XBR910 used, and the 960 was a "SF gen 2". Side by side at the retailer with identical settings and sources reveal an overall brighter, sharper (but not "fake") image with the 960 over the 955. Sony's own literature boasted of a 28% improvement over the previous 910 SFP tube.

Actually I believe this is incorrect.

As I recall, the XS line used the same Super Fine Pitch tube that the previous XBR910 used, and the 960 was a "SF gen 2". Side by side at the retailer with identical settings and sources reveal an overall brighter, sharper (but not "fake") image with the 960 over the 955. Sony's own literature boasted of a 28% improvement over the previous 910 SFP tube.According to the service manual, the 34XS955 and 34XBR960 CRTs are the same part number:

"KD-34XS955 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"
"KD-34XBR960 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"

I don't have data for the XBR910.

Is there any difference that you guys know of between the 34XBR960 and the 34XS955, because I can get an open boxed 34XS955 for 879.99 and am just wandering if there are any noticeable differences between the two. It sounds like a great deal to me. What do you guys think?

I agree - sounds like a great deal.

According to the service manual, the 34XS955 and 34XBR960 CRTs are the same part number:

"KD-34XS955 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"
"KD-34XBR960 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"

I don't have data for the XBR910.

Oh. :o

Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.

Oh. :o

Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.If the common source was 480i, then the different DRC chips (DRC-MFV1 and DRC-MF) and their settings could have been a factor. If the common source was not 480i, then the DRC would have no effect and the differences seen must have been due to something else uncommon.

Oh. :o

Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.

Or their user settings didn't correlate on an absolute level.

Glad to know my recollection was accurate about not noticing much difference between the two when using the HD4200. Of course, the HD4200 yielded a beautiful picture but we twice exchanged it for a HD8300-DVR and both times immediately noticed better HD quality using the same 960 settings as before.

I've also noticed many in the forum prefer OTA over cable and/or satellite so the type of tuner provided by the cable company and how it is set is very important. Which picture output do you use on the SA? We use auto-HDMI which allows the 960 to do the upconversion rather than the cable box (the Sony yields better results).

BTW - we went back to a HD4200 because the copy protection device on a newly purchased DVD recorder kicked in and a cablevision representative thought this was due to copies having already been made on the DVR's hard drive. It still occured on the HD4200 and we eventually discovered there was a copy protection defect in Toshiba DVD recorders so we exchanged it for a Panasonic (no copy protection problems at all).

Thanks for your thoughts.
Joe

To follow up on my earlier post someone in the cablevision ny forum agreed they noticed improved HD picture quality switching from the 4200 (DVI only) to 4250 (w/HDMI). Since I got an improved HDMI picture but no similiar improvement using component could some boxes be geared more toward HDMI and others toward component?

To follow up on my earlier post someone in the cablevision ny forum agreed they noticed improved HD picture quality switching from the 4200 (DVI only) to 4250 (w/HDMI). Since I got an improved HDMI picture but no similiar improvement using component could some boxes be geared more toward HDMI and others toward component?
Certainly. The cable box takes the digital HD signal from the cable company, then converts that digital signal to an analog signal that it outputs to your TV via component. So whenever you're using an analog component connection from a digital device (such as DVD player or digital cable or xbox 360 or whatever), the picture quality depends entirely on that device's ability to handle the digital-to-analog conversion.

Certainly. The cable box takes the digital HD signal from the cable company, then converts that digital signal to an analog signal that it outputs to your TV via component. So whenever you're using an analog component connection from a digital device (such as DVD player or digital cable or xbox 360 or whatever), the picture quality depends entirely on that device's ability to handle the digital-to-analog conversion.

Seems this puts an end to the HDMI vs. Component debate.

Seems this puts an end to the HDMI vs. Component debate.
Sort of. It just puts more of an emphasis on "it depends" as the answer.

But there's multiple factors why one might be better than the other. First is the D/A conversion that I mentioned above. But for these Sony CRTs, since I understand they're analog devices themselves, when you give it a digital HDMI signal the TV does a D/A conversion. So "it depends" on which does the better D/A conversion - the TV or the device.

But on top of that, a HDMI cable will carry a digital signal farther and with less data loss than would occur with an analog component cable. So even if you have a device that looks better on component cables using high-quality, short cables, you might find that HDMI looks better from that same device if you have to use longer cables to go from your device to your display.

"It depends."

If we were talking about LCD TVs, I'd say always go with HDMI, hands down. Because that's all digital all the way from source to final display. But with a CRT it's a different story, because somewhere along the way, something has to convert from digital to analog.

Sort of. It just puts more of an emphasis on "it depends" as the answer.

But there's multiple factors why one might be better than the other. First is the D/A conversion that I mentioned above. But for these Sony CRTs, since I understand they're analog devices themselves, when you give it a digital HDMI signal the TV does a D/A conversion. So "it depends" on which does the better D/A conversion - the TV or the device.

But on top of that, a HDMI cable will carry a digital signal farther and with less data loss than would occur with an analog component cable. So even if you have a device that looks better on component cables using high-quality, short cables, you might find that HDMI looks better from that same device if you have to use longer cables to go from your device to your display.

"It depends."

If we were talking about LCD TVs, I'd say always go with HDMI, hands down. Because that's all digital all the way from source to final display. But with a CRT it's a different story, because somewhere along the way, something has to convert from digital to analog.

With distance, dependable cables, etc. being equal this means owners of the 960 should experiment with both - there is no one answer. Hence the debate switches from HDMI vs. component to which one works better with one's particular cable/satellite box or OTA antenna.

So, anybody using the SA HD8300 find component equal or better than HDMI?

How can I do something about Overscan,without paying a lot of money,Can I fix it my self?
Peter

New in Box 960n just delivered - had been sitting in warehouse at local AV store since May waiting for customer who ordered it to show. I guess 7 months is long enough to wait - so they sold it to me. November 05 built date.

PQ looks pretty good out of the box (once off torch mode). I look forward to benefiting from your collective wisdom documented in this thread as I set this thing up.

How can I do something about Overscan,without paying a lot of money,Can I fix it my self?
Peter


See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.

Thanks - Links are in archive - will search for post after I get a little more comfortable with service codes.

I have 5% overscan according to DVE. What are typical results after correction? DVE talks about getting to 2.5% Is that typical - our can you get closer to 0% overscan.

Just put the set through a quick DVE setup and the PQ is much improved over out of the box setup. I was nervous about getting this set, as had been used to Pio Plasma. The HD PQ is wonderful.

Thanks - Links are in archive - will search for post after I get a little more comfortable with service codes.

I have 5% overscan according to DVE. What are typical results after correction? DVE talks about getting to 2.5% Is that typical - our can you get closer to 0% overscan.

Just put the set through a quick DVE setup and the PQ is much improved over out of the box setup. I was nervous about getting this set, as had been used to Pio Plasma. The HD PQ is wonderful.
If you have 5% all around and you're not seeing any obvious cropping, I wouldn't bother.

Yep - it is 5% all around - actually can see the line at 5%, so suspect it is just under.

Saw that the HD test patterns were back on INDH this Sunday at 7:00 AM EST. For those new to this forum I strongly suggest using these since my HD settings are slightly different from ones achieved through DVD (those are not based on a HD signal but rather the particular 480i/480p output of your DVD player).

INHD provides tests for picture, brightness, color and overscan with approximately two minutes set aside to make each adjustment. If possible, retain them on the hard drive of your HD DVR since INHD had not broadcast them for a while.

Hope this is helpful,
Joe

Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?

Appreciate your opinions

Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out

Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?

Appreciate your opinions

No set can upconvert a progressive scan signal - only interlaced.

Do you have the output of your current player set to 480P? If so, try setting it to 480I before purchasing a new one. I have a Panasonic DVD Recorder and setting its output to 480I, allowing the 960 to do the upconverting, is better than a straight 480P.

Why not consider getting a high-def player instead? I picked up both a PS3 and Xbox360+HD DVD add-on. The PS3 is supposedly getting a software update soon that will let it upconvert SD DVDs, but for now it already looks better than my old DVD player.

because I don't have a grand to drop on a HD model :) Plus why get a HD model when my TV only displays 1080i? I'm keeping the 960 until broadcast goes to 1080p or something forces me to get rid of it.

because I don't have a grand to drop on a HD model :) Plus why get a HD model when my TV only displays 1080i? I'm keeping the 960 until broadcast goes to 1080p or something forces me to get rid of it.

You didnt indicate your format preference, but Amazon has some Toshiba A2's and A1s for $360 and $460 respectively. Or get a PS3 for $499 and play BRD's. Sound & Vision magazine claimed that the PQ was equal to the higher priced Sammy and Panasonic players. And it has built-in decoding for True HD and DTS-HD, whereas the others dont.

I have the Toshiba XA1 connected to my XBR 960(calibrated by Chad B) and the visuals are amazing, despite "only" being 1080i!

.......Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already......I don't believe this is true. The XBR960 uses a Sony designed Digital Reality Creation (DRC-MFV1) CXD-2097 chip for upscaling 480i to display resolutions. DRC-Interlaced(960i/1080i), Progressive(480p/540p), and Cinemotion(960i/1080i with 3:2 pulldown) .

......So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?

Appreciate your opinionsI would recommend using a decent DVD player set to 480i output and let the DRC-MFV1 in your XBR960 take care of upscaling.

Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?

Appreciate your opinions

I have an OPPO 971 connected to my XBR960 via DVI/HDMI cable and have it set to 1080i, if I'm not mistaken, my callibrator also suggested that I set the player to 1080i.

Here is a quick FAQ from the manufacturer's site:
Q: Which DVI setting should I select for my display for best picture quality? Does the 1080i via DVI always give me the highest picture quality?
A: We recommend that you select the closest resolution that is, ideally, a 1:1 mapping to the native pixel count or scan rate supported by your video display device. For most ED Plasma, 480P gives the best quality. For HD Plasma or typical consumer LCD projector such as Sanyo Z2, Marantz and other Mustang HD2 DLP units, 1280 x 720 (720P) works best. Some rear projection or CRT HDTVs support native 1920 x 1080i, and for these units, select the 1080i output mode.

I was skeptical of the upconverted dvd player to my XBR960 but am very happy with the great picture!

Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out

i want one..

i want one..

I want one too, anyone know who might be selling them still. I looked at the B&H site and didn't see any for sale.

Your best bet is to periodically check ebay, and call all your local independent dealers to see if they might still have one.

Well I posted earlier about some awful color blotches on my 960, and thanks to this forum I was able to fix most of the problem with the LANDING settings in the service menu. The problem is that I can't get rid of the discoloration completely in one area of the screen. The top right corner still has some visual color blotching.

For those of you well-versed in the service menu, is there anything else that I can do to get rid of this problem? The LT and LB settings in my service menu are already at 0 out of 255, so I can't adjust those anymore. I am really stumped on what to try now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, CK

I want one too, anyone know who might be selling them still. I looked at the B&H site and didn't see any for sale.

They are out there - I found a brand new one about 2 weeks ago sitting in a warehouse at one of the local AV stores in Indianapolis.

I was in a debate over getting the 960 or looking at another Plasma. I could not be more pleased with my decision to go with the 960. The HD picture (although smaller) rivals my Pioneer Elite plasma - and SD on the 960 is much better than my Plasma.

Hi everyone, I'm a long time lurker and a first time poster, due to me having a problem with my year old XBR960N.

I've tried to search to see what my problem is, but a lot of the terms are unfamiliar with me, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

I noticed an unusual discoloration on the screen. It is about three inches tall and an inch wide, and is on the extreme left side of the screen, about a quarter of the way up from the bottom. I noticed it while loading an HD DVD on my XBOX 360 and saw it. It shows up as a magenta color when a solid blue image is being displayed.

I'm pretty sure this is something that can be fixed using the Service Menu and I have begun to read the thread, but like I said a lot of the technical terms are new to me.

If anyone can give me an idea of what the problem would be and how to correct it, I would be very thankful.

-Mark

twentywontowin, If you look at my post a few before yours you will see that I said you can correct this problem with the LANDING settings in the service menu. Go to the setting "LB" which referrs to the Left-Bottom section of the screen. Lower the value until the discoloration is removed from the screen then save your settings (with Mute + Enter). I did this and got most of my discoloration taken care of, but there is still a little at the top left of my screen.

If anyone has anything else to do to get rid of this, please let me know. Thanks, CK

Why did Sony have to stop making this wonderful tv? I've been keeping my eye open for it and I've pretty much resigned myself to the fact that if I get it, it'll be used. If anyone from Ohio is ever going to sell theirs, or if you ever see it for sale in Ohio, PLEASE let me know! And of course if someone sees it for sale somewhere where it can be shipped to me, PLEASE let me know. I took a look at the 970 this weekend thinking I might buy it, but it just doesn't compare to the 960, so I'm going to hold out some hope!

Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out
The thought of finding and buying a 960N for less than 1K was and still is a pipe dream. Geez, talk about getting ones hopes crushed. I ordered one of these 'IN STOCK' 960's from BHPhoto last week for $999, thinking they must have dug up some new old stock from their warehouse. Sadly no. :( I got the order cancellation this morning from them. They claim 'system error' and apologized for the mistake and will refund account. I can't be to bummed since I already own one, albeit an open box set I found two weeks ago at cc but still...

You can still get these tvs from Sony Outlet stores if you call around. It will be refurbished, but you can get an extended warranty for practically nothing. So don't give up quite yet.

I'm selling an XBR 910 if anyone is interested. AFAIK the differences between the 910 and 960 are Cablecard and HDMI instead of the DVI input on the 910.

http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ele/267660538.html

:( :( Hi all,

A small greenish/blue discoloration appeared in the lower left corner of my 960 last night. Fortunately, the de-gausing mechanism worked for the blotch completely disappeared upon turning the set off and on again. I checked it twice, leaving the set on for 5 and then 15 minutes. Was clear against all types of backgrounds. My wife also said the corner was clear again this morning.

I know there have been numerous posts by those experiencing problems with color distoration. Some were caused by unshielded magnetic speakers and remedied by moving them further away. However, I recall others where the problem persisted and Sony service was required.

Has anybody experienced discoloration which simply disappeared once the set was turned off and then on again? I tend to think this can sometimes occur and be corrected by the Sony's automatic degausing but, of course, am also concerned this could be a sign of a developing problem.

Glad I was once told by a Sony Service Represenative to have the set plugged directly into a wall socket and not through a surge protector to allow enough initial power to allow the degauser to work properly. :)

Thanks as always,
Joe

What's the best color temp to use for each input? DVDs, games, cable box...

And should you calibrate (DVE) your color settings around the Neutral or Warm setting?

Thanks.

Glad I was once told by a Sony Service Represenative to have the set plugged directly into a wall socket and not through a surge protector to allow enough initial power to allow the degauser to work properly. :)

Thanks as always,
Joe

Hmm thats interesting , mine is plugged into a surge protector and I do get a random blotch on the right edge of the screen (pretty often actually) but If I turn the TV off and on it usualy goes away completely.

Hmm thats interesting , mine is plugged into a surge protector and I do get a random blotch on the right edge of the screen (pretty often actually) but If I turn the TV off and on it usualy goes away completely.

This was the first blotch I ever noticed since getting the set in August, 2005.

Shortly after receiving the set I was getting no picture or sound and contacted Sony. Was instructed to unplug the set. When told to plug it back in I mentioned it was back in the surge protector. That's when I was told it should instead be plugged directly into the wall (even though the instruction manual suggested use of a surge protector) since surge protectors do not release 100% electricity when turning the power on. There has been debate about the pros and cons of surge protectors quite often in this forum

- Joe

What's the best color temp to use for each input? DVDs, games, cable box...

And should you calibrate (DVE) your color settings around the Neutral or Warm setting?

Thanks.

When i first got my sony about 3 years ago i started to use "Cool" then after a while switched to "Neutral" since "Cool" was a bit too blue after a while of using that setting.

Neutral seems to be the most balanced of the 2,so i would use that to calibrate your color with.

Here are some service menu settings to correct the colors to look more accurate.

RYR:14
RYB:14
GYR:6
GYB:4

I just thought that I could mention that the BB in Crystal Lake IL has 2 of these open box (one has been on open box display since August). There are unwilling to drop below $1100 though.

I just thought that I could mention that the BB in Crystal Lake IL has 2 of these open box (one has been on open box display since August). There are unwilling to drop below $1100 though.

That is a joke considering I paid $1400 at Abt for a brand new 960N in March 2006.

They will budge on the price eventually I bet.

I have talked to two managers and neither will budge. They will however offer a $150 gift card when you pay $1100. They say it has something to do with how far below cost they can go.
I have only seen one of them turned on (it has been on for who know how many months) and it has poor geometry and a color blob on the left side. Of course it would still be under warranty.

Nice overall picture though. It stands head and shoulders above any other display.

I have talked to two managers and neither will budge. They will however offer a $150 gift card when you pay $1100. They say it has something to do with how far below cost they can go.
I have only seen one of them turned on (it has been on for who know how many months) and it has poor geometry and a color blob on the left side. Of course it would still be under warranty.

Nice overall picture though. It stands head and shoulders above any other display.

Even for $950 the asking price is way too much with those problems already apparent. Who knows how long it's been on and at what settings? The tube's performance deteriates if the contrast and brightness settings are set too high (usually the case with floor models) so even if the picture looks great, it might not be as good as it could be.

I will have to ask specifically about the second unit. It just showed up in the past week or so which makes me think that it might be a return. The may have a different policy on discounting returned tvs than floor models.

Hey all,

I've had my set since 11/22/05 and it's still under warranty and I was having some issues with the geometry and registration. Mainly, I'm seeing some bowing of the picture on the right hand side of the screen. I called sony service and the sent a guy out. He looked at it and said, ya, that's what these set look like. can't get it much better the that. Which I find hard to believe, since I know it wasn't this bad to begin with.

I've posted some photos of what it currently looks like at a site that i can't link to, since i don.'t have enough posts here yet. If some folks would email me and i'll provide a link and then take a look at these and let me know what they think, I'd appreciate it. sorry for the extra work


Thanks

Jamie

Jamie,

I've had my set a few months more than you and have not noticed any bowing when watching normal 16x9 sources like HD and DVD so can attest it's not supposed to be that way. The only notice a very slight bowing in the stretch mode (4x3 stretched to 16x9) which is proportionatly the same in all four corners.

Many in the forum have experienced problems with bowing that were resolved (I think one member even got a replacement, but could be wrong). Suggest you again contact Sony to inform them what this serviceman said - am sure they will agree bowing is not normal for the 960 and will have another service representative come to resolve it.

Joe,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I did call Sony and explained to them what the service tech told me. They gave me the name of another company, which I called. This place told me that they have never been able to get this set right on this set. But offered to come and bring back to his shop and he said he might be able to get it better, but never perfect. He didn't sound very optimistic. So, I thanked him for his time, but, no thanks.

I then called where I purchased the set from, and they are going to send out a tech next Saturday, and see if they can do any better. I sure hope so. This set has definitely gotten worse in this regard since I purchased it.

thanks again

Jamie

What kind of bowing is it? Horizontal or Vertical lines? As mentioned previously, the vertical line geometry can be finely adjusted in the service menu rather easily. Also, geometry should always be adjusted where the TV will be, not in a shop. Just having the TV face a different direction can change the geometry. Doesn't sound to me like the tech you spoke with is too swift - I'd find another.

I'm seeing bowing on both the horizontal and vertical. Also seeing some pretty good convergence issues between red, blue and green.

And I've been pretty shocked with the quality of the techs that Sony has put me in contact with. The first guy that came out had an old Leader Pattern generator hooked up to video 2 with the picture stretched to make the adjustments. Seems like a pretty porr way to make cirtical adjustments.

Here's a link to a picture that show's what I'm seeing. This is showing more of the registration then the bowing. The tech that worked on the set yesterday reduced the bowing, but now the registration is worse.

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=377816001&size=l


Am I being to picky or is this what I should expect?? Again, It wasn't like this when I first got the set.


Jamie

THat's not too bad, but it can probably be improved . A skilled tech should be able to make adjustments in the service menu as well as place magnets on the back of the set to touch up the horizonal lines.

BTW, any tech that is using video 2 is probably clueless - at the very least he doesn't have the proper equipment necessary to work on an HD set.

Here's a link to a picture that show's what I'm seeing. This is showing more of the registration then the bowing. The tech that worked on the set yesterday reduced the bowing, but now the registration is worse.

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=377816001&size=l


Am I being to picky or is this what I should expect?? Again, It wasn't like this when I first got the set.


Jamie
No Jamie, you're not all being picky for I would feel the same way if this suddenly happened to me. I have on DVR the INHD test patterns including the convergence graph and it is not like that but fortunately, the bowing is limited to just the extreme corners and not further down the sides. Agree with the other members that a good technician will have the ability to straighten it out without worsening the problem with registration.

Know it is easier for me to say but hang in there.

Joe

Hi everyone,

I was just able to purchase an out-of-box XBR960 from "Trading Circuit", the CC liquidators, off of eBay for $680 - not too shabby. It appears to have been a demo unit. I'm very pleased with the set so far, except for one issue: with certain predominantly white images (such as an overexposed sky, or a car commercial with a white background), there is very noticeable flicker in the image. Only the white part is badly flickering; the rest of the image seems more stable. But then, on other shots with a similar amount of white in the image, the picture is completely stable. I know CRTs often suffer from image warping with bright images, but I've never seen this before. It reminds me of the flickering you see when a CRT computer monitor is driven past its refresh range...

Is this normal for this set? Does anyone know what this could be caused by? Could there be a Service Menu option that might fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd hate to have to take back this set (if I even can) for an issue that could be correctable. Thanks!

I have an xbr960 and I LOVE it. Just out of curiousity, has anyone here compared the picture quality of their 960@1080i to one of the new 1080p plasma or lcd tv's? I've been to the store and have seen some TV's running in 1080p and they do look really clear. I'm still not sure, however, if it necessarily looks better than my 960. Anyone compare them side by side by chance?

Thanks!

Jeremy

I have an xbr960 and I LOVE it. Just out of curiousity, has anyone here compared the picture quality of their 960@1080i to one of the new 1080p plasma or lcd tv's? I've been to the store and have seen some TV's running in 1080p and they do look really clear. I'm still not sure, however, if it necessarily looks better than my 960. Anyone compare them side by side by chance?

Thanks!

Jeremy

Jeremy, I have the same question, actually. But I do have a few thoughts on it:

1) Broadcasters are not transmitting 1080p. And I don't know how long it will be until they do--if ever. So those of us with 960's aren't missing out on any broadcast resolution so far. I believe it's the same for cable and satellite.
2) The next TV I buy will definitely be 1080p.
3) It will be a while before I'll buy Blu-Ray or HD DVD.

Bottom-line, I don't feel I'm missing anything so far "limiting" myself to my 960.

Mark

Jeremy, I have the same question, actually. But I do have a few thoughts on it:

1) Broadcasters are not transmitting 1080p. And I don't know how long it will be until they do--if ever. So those of us with 960's aren't missing out on any broadcast resolution so far. I believe it's the same for cable and satellite.
2) The next TV I buy will definitely be 1080p.
3) It will be a while before I'll buy Blu-Ray or HD DVD.

Bottom-line, I don't feel I'm missing anything so far "limiting" myself to my 960.

Mark

Hi Mark,

:) :) Agree with you. While prices have dropped considerably and larger screen plasmas and LCDs are actually less expensive from what we paid for our 960's, there are still some drawbacks that we tend to forget.

For example, I recently saw a DVD played on a 37 inch LCD with what seemed to be accurate settings for contrast, color and brightness. The picture was smooth, pleasing with rich blacks, but after a few minutes I was reminded that:

1) There was no depth to the picture (everything was on top of each other),

2) Flesh tones were natural but there seemed to be less diversity of color all around,

3) At times I saw a slight, white outline around larger objects, and

4) While crystal sharp, little details were missing like those five o'clock shadows on actors which one can't help noticing on the 960.

I think we all ask ourselves would we still go for a 960 (if still manufactured today) or a bigger flat screen costing a few hundred dollars less. I still think the Sony 960 is regarded as the reference set and if I get any doubts, I simply remind myself of what I noted above.

Also, because it's 26 inches deep, the 960 is closer to us than flat screens by about two feet. With seating positions remaining the same flat screens hung on the wall would be two feet further away; so the further distance would make a 37 inch picture looks no bigger than the 960 at 34 inches.

I think the bottom line is that while I recently saw a beautiful picture, by owning a 960 I wasn't awed by it either. Glad I don't have to worry about deciding what to buy today because one can be fooled by screen size.

Just my take,

Joe

Hey guys, I to am an owner of a xbr960 and love it. I bought it about a year ago at Best Buy, it was a demo model. I have one slight problem with it though and am looking for suggestions. During the day when the light hits the tv screen, the screen has huge blotchy places on it. I am pretty sure the anti glare film on the screen is the problem. When it is dark in the room the picture is great with no noticible blotchy areas. The tv is great during the night but distracting during the day, especialy during dark scenes. Any Suggestions?

Well, neo7777, elsewhere in this forum it's mentioned that on the 960 (not the 960N), one can actually peel the anti-reflective layer right off. You have to take the front bezel off to do it properly. Some claim it's an enhancement, giving an overall brighter picture. I've got the same problem on mine, to some degree, but I'm a little hesitant to make a permanent change like that to my beloved set.

I've been thinking of removing the antiglare coating on mine too. I'm hesitant though as I don't want to screw it up somehow. I know some people have done it successfully with goof off.

Certainly I could be mistaken (it has happened before...) but I've always thought that the dark coating on Sony Trinitrons was not there for its anti-glare/anti-reflective properties, but was there to darken the image to provide that inky black that we all love so much.

Won't removing the dark screen coating reduce the TV's ability to show the darkest possible black? Won't it skew the brightness gamma curve as well?

no. its the opposite. the anti-reflective coating does reduce glare but at the cost of absorb light from entering the screen and also light coming out of the tv screen, hence reducing picture brightness. So, its better to remove the coating to get better brightness.

But of course, removing the anti reflective coating is tricky and even i haven't dare do it.

Is it possible to completely rename the input names available? (E.g., GAME and BETA are in the available list of names--is there a way I can update the software to have names of my choosing like PS3 and HD-DVD)?

Also, if anyone has any advice about moving these things (other than "don't"), I could use it.

The set is a discontinued set and any hopes of firmware updates are nill. As far as naming the inputs, you have only the choices that are in the menu. Sorry.

Bummer.

The really big bummer though is that almost all of the twin-view functionality is going to go right in the toilet before too much longer.

Bummer.

The really big bummer though is that almost all of the twin-view functionality is going to go right in the toilet before too much longer.

For those who don't know what this means, it's because the twin-view depends on analog signals. When over-the-air analog disappears two years from now, there won't be analog signals available, so we'll lose the twin-view features.

However, I'm cable and satellite ignorant. (I use over-the-air, and I'm very happy with the quality of the signals I get.) Do cable/satellite tuners provide analog outputs? If so, then our sets will continue to be able to provide twin-view functionality. Any comments?

Mark

So after my 960 died a quick death (just at the edge of warranty), and a couple of service calls, it looks like Sony is going to replace it. Now I haven't talked to the Sony rep yet, but *if* I cannot get another 960, what would you folks recommend as a quality-appropriate replacement from Sony's current line-up?

So after my 960 died a quick death (just at the edge of warranty), and a couple of service calls, it looks like Sony is going to replace it. Now I haven't talked to the Sony rep yet, but *if* I cannot get another 960, what would you folks recommend as a quality-appropriate replacement from Sony's current line-up?Go with one of the SXRD sets. These are fixed-pixel large screens that once adjusted (i.e. taken out of VIVID mode and put into PRO, where you can now adjust it like you can adjust the XBR960) have the appearance of a CRT! It's actually remarkable... fantastic brightness, color, and contrast, and ZERO geometry anomalies and problems. Does not look like an LCD or plasma. It looks like a CRT.

But it does not come in 34" size. Minimum size is 42", all the way up to 70".

Only downside is a somewhat narrow "viewing angle", which is not 180 degrees like a CRT, or so-called 170 degrees like a Sharp Aquos. It's more like 60 degrees, which is its only current downside. But if you plan to sit in front of the set, or on a couch in front of the set across the room, this will not be a problem at all. And again, the picture is SIMPLY STUNNING!!! Think big-screen XBR960, but better!

Depending on your budget, and the desired screen sizes, if you want something that will make you happy like the XBR960 and can't spend a fortune, you should go with the KDS-50A2000 in 42", KDS-50A2020 in 50", KDS-55A2020 in 55", KDS-60A2020 in 60". If you want true top-of-the-line and you can afford a 60" or 70" XBR, go with the KDS-R60XBR2 in 60" or KDS-R70XBR2 in 70". Avoid the less expensive E-series models.

All models are available signficantly discounted from online etailers. Go to a local store that shows everything available and see for yourself. I feel them to be STUNNING.

The non-XBR models have speakers under the screen. The XBR models have "wings" where the speakers live. The sound from the XBR models is EXCELLENT. I have not heard the sound from the A-series, but I'm guessing it's not as good. Of course if you're going to use outboard sound through your receiver it doesn't matter.

SXRD sets are not a fixed pixel displays; they're projection - big difference.

SXRD sets are not a fixed pixel displays; they're projection - big difference.You didn't mean this did you? The new SXRD has three 1920 pixel x 1080 pixel chips, it will only display 1920x1080 >>>>> fixed pixel. The only display that is not fixed pixel is CRT.

You didn't mean this did you? The new SXRD has three 1920 pixel x 1080 pixel chips, it will only display 1920x1080 >>>>> fixed pixel. The only display that is not fixed pixel is CRT.

To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.

I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.

To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.

I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.Each specific pixel in the digital video datastream is 1:1 mapped to a corresponding specific single pixel on the screen (no matter that it's rear projection). There's no way it can go anywhere else but exactly to one single pixel. SXRD is technically a member of the LCD family, but looks distinctly more like a CRT in its onscreen image characteristics.

It is literally a 100% digital display.

There is no analog electron gun spraying at phosphors on the glass to excite them into glowing, subject to curvature problems, angle of spray problems, geometry problems, phosphor decay/ghosting problems, magnetic field influence problems, etc... all of which are analog-caused.

To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.

I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.If you look close enough, you will see each pixel, it is the fact that a LCoS based chip has a 93% fill factor, that the "screen door" is harder to see. Now there are two distinct issues here. Projection, fixed pixel (DLP, LCD & LCoS), front or rear, overlay RGB to display a white pixel. With a plasma, lcd flat panel and DV CRT, you are looking at red, green and blue cells individually. Due to their close proximity, the eye sees them as white.

A display is either fixed-pixel or not, no in between.

Thanks for the info on the SXRD's. The only recent post I've found so far regarding Sony offering a replacement for a XBR960 was one gent who said they only offered "replacement" value (not original value), and it was a credit at Sonystyle website. Anyone remember any other postings regarding Sony's "offers" for replacement sets?

I am **SO** dissappointed this happened... I'm a video editor, and much of my work is still standard def - I specifically got the XBR960 for it's superior display of SD signals (as well as HD of course) - two years ago I couldn't find any digital display that worked as well as a CRT for these needs. (I use a broadcast monitor for critical evaulation of my work of course, but that's only a 15".) Unbelievable that a $2000 tv is TRASH after only 2 years!! I'm praying that Sony offers me full value for the set, so I won't lose too much $$ in the process.

So looking at the KDS-50A2020 & KDS-50A2000, I can't find any difference, other than the KDS-50A2020 doesn't ship until 3/15/07. The specs are identical. Anyone know anything that says I should wait? Also dissappointing that these only offer a 1 year warranty....

Edit: just looking at Sony's Extended Warranty page, under Replacement Plans, and there it says: "The plan will provide an exact replacement if your Sony product should fail to operate properly. In the event an exact product can not be located, the plan will provide a replacement that is of equal or comparable value." Problem here is that we're talking apples & oranges, since you can't BUY anything exactly like the 960 now. So you think pushing for a SXRD is a fair comparison? (I also see a wide range of prices, from $1900 on Sonystyle to $1400 elsewhere.)

If you look close enough, you will see each pixel, it is the fact that a LCoS based chip has a 93% fill factor, that the "screen door" is harder to see. Now there are two distinct issues here. Projection, fixed pixel (DLP, LCD & LCoS), front or rear, overlay RGB to display a white pixel. With a plasma, lcd flat panel and DV CRT, you are looking at red, green and blue cells individually. Due to their close proximity, the eye sees them as white.

A display is either fixed-pixel or not, no in between.

I didn't know that was the definition. To me, stating "fixed pixel projection" would make more sense.

Thanks for the info on the SXRD's. The only recent post I've found so far regarding Sony offering a replacement for a XBR960 was one gent who said they only offered "replacement" value (not original value), and it was a credit at Sonystyle website. Anyone remember any other postings regarding Sony's "offers" for replacement sets?

I am **SO** dissappointed this happened... I'm a video editor, and much of my work is still standard def - I specifically got the XBR960 for it's superior display of SD signals (as well as HD of course) - two years ago I couldn't find any digital display that worked as well as a CRT for these needs. (I use a broadcast monitor for critical evaulation of my work of course, but that's only a 15".) Unbelievable that a $2000 tv is TRASH after only 2 years!! I'm praying that Sony offers me full value for the set, so I won't lose too much $$ in the process.

So looking at the KDS-50A2020 & KDS-50A2000, I can't find any difference, other than the KDS-50A2020 doesn't ship until 3/15/07. The specs are identical. Anyone know anything that says I should wait? Also dissappointing that these only offer a 1 year warranty....A replacement will depend on many things, what resolution do you need, what color space do you need (601 or 709), is color accuracy important, etc. ....... Sony may not be able to deliver what you need with the current digital consumer displays.

A replacement will depend on many things, what resolution do you need, what color space do you need (601 or 709), is color accuracy important, etc. ....... Sony may not be able to deliver what you need with the current digital consumer displays.
I use my SMPTE-C broadcast monitor for critical color work, but I'd bought the 960 for it's superior handling of SD/HD, blacks, etc. So while it's not used for my critical evaluations, I desire a quality image for my edit room's main "client" monitor.
Guess I'm hoping to find someone reading this thread to remember some earlier posting where Sony offered a great replacement deal to someone in a similiar situation, so I could use that if needed to "leverage" the deal. And also to know what's current in the product lineup to approximate the 960. (Which looks like the SXRDs.(?))

Your original question regarded "what should I consider to replace my now-defunct XBR960"?

And to that question (which I've also asked myself, should my gloriously perfect 2-year old XBR960, which replaced my previous glorious 4-year old Sampo 34WHD5 which had finally failed on me as the picture tube literally died, somehow someday also fail on me) I answered based on my subjective reaction to my sister's 1st-generation SXRD KDS-R50XBR1 that she bought when she moved into her new home.

The first weekend I visited her I spent much time working with DVE to adjust her set for her (just in the user-menu, since I didn't have any service-menu information and wasn't about to go there unless the user-menu didn't produce satisfactory results). At the end of the weekend, after tweaking was complete and rewiring from the original component-video/stereo done by Comcast to HDMI (from her 6412-III) I was simply stunned! STUNNED!

I was essentially looking (at a distance of probably 10 feet) what appeared to be a geometrically perfect XBR960... only in 50" size! Its picture looked like that of a CRT, not an LCD. GLORIOUS!

And now, everytime I return there for a visit, I look forward to the magical look of the picture on her set (of course my tune-up based on my XBR960 experience had a lot to do with it... PRO, SET SHARPNESS=MIN, etc.). I watched the "Mormon Tabernacle Choir" on PBS-HD over the Xmas holidays and was absolutely thunderstruck at what it looked like (like I was THERE... in SLC!). I watched the Grammy's a few weeks back, and thought we were watching from a floating window somehow suspended inside the Staple's Center.

I'm a stickler for perfection, and I have decided that if/when I ever want to replace/supplement my XBR960 it will be one of these new Sony SXRD sets (unless something better looking evolves for us to actually buy). At this time I still characterize my feeling about these sets (assuming you sit essentially straight-on) as (a) the size of a large-screen, and (b) the look of an XBR960. It appears to be a CRT in all of its subjective visual characteristics.

Go check it out for yourself at a local store. That's the best way for you to tell.

The newer models (i.e. 2nd-generation and newer, like the XBR2) support 1080p input via HDMI as well as displaying in 1080p. I really don't know what the difference between the 2000 and 2020 is, but it was probably a small engineering improvement (perhaps sound? processor?). The original XBR1 only supported displaying in 1080p. All generations have two HDMI inputs.

Thanks for the elaboration DS - I feel much better now going to the SXRD series, knowing that a *picky* 960 owner feels that way about them. Now the only thing is to wait to see what Sony will offer up for my 15-day out of warranty 960.... (Now that they've already replaced a board & the CRT. I was hoping that the regional Sony Service Rep would come out to fix the alignment & color purity issues that the service tech couldn't, but he decided just to bump it into "replacement" status.)

There is no analog electron gun spraying at phosphors on the glass to excite them into glowing, subject to curvature problems, angle of spray problems, geometry problems, phosphor decay/ghosting problems,

What actually can be done about phosphor decay/ghosting??? New tube??? Seeing how a few of us here want to keep our 960(N)s running their best for quite awhile, what replacement parts, if available, would be advisable to buy for the future? Can a new SFP tube be bought from Sony parts dept?

What actually can be done about phosphor decay/ghosting??? New tube??? Seeing how a few of us here want to keep our 960(N)s running their best for quite awhile, what replacement parts, if available, would be advisable to buy for the future? Can a new SFP tube be bought from Sony parts dept?This has been discussed before. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with your picture tube that a new one would resolve.

The problem is simply that once excited the phosphors take a bit of time to go dark. And it's a function of brightness of the image before it disappears as well as how dark your viewing environment is, because the darker the room the easier it is to see the leftover ghosts on the screen.

Personally, I've never noticed nor cared. Only when the odd TV scene that has mostly dark except for something bright moving around (like a halogen flashlight on CSI in an otherwise very dark surrounding), or a bright flash which instantly appears and disappears, in which case if I pay attention closely I can notice it. But honestly, I never really noticed it before to complain about until it began to be discussed here. And I'm really not all that concerned about it, since it's not something that's "broken" and can actually be "fixed" (other than trying to minimize it by user-menu adjustments to brightness and contrast). It's really just inherent in phosphors. Most normal TV shows don't have such sudden extremes of brightness appearing and disappearing, and I don't play games on my XBR960.

Is this any worse than ghosting in LCD sets, where the "comet trail" is easily seen on high-speed motion? The newer sets have really addressed this problem and improved response time, but it's just inherent in the excite/decay time for these glowing pixels just like it is for phosphors on a CRT.

For virtually everything I watch in HD on network/premium TV (e.g. Rome, Boston Legal, etc.) which is generally daylight or well lit, there is zero ghosting.

Hey everyone,

I was experimenting with different resolutions on my set, and I think I made a facinating discovery. The conventional wisdom is that this set upconverts incoming 720p and displays it as native 1080i. My careful observations tonight conflict with this. I noticed when feeding the set 720p, the interlaced flicker and "judder" was significantly less than when feeding the set a 1080i signal. I also noticed with 720p that as you increase the contrast, the reduction of focus compared to 1080i is significantly less. I am wondering if the set perhaps converts 720p to native 720i or some other interlaced resolution less than 1080i? Also, 720p seems to be a little clearer than 1080i, which makes me think there is quite a bit of overlapping/blurring of the scanning lines with native 1080i. With native 720i (or somethign similar), there would be more room and less overlap, which also explains why focus is better with 720p.

I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.

Anyone else ever noticed this? I'm really liking the results. The picture is more natural, and much easier on the eyes with 720p. Now if I could only get my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i.

Thanks DSperber for clearing that up for me. Lately I have been watching most of my programs at night with all the lights turned off. And I just bought an XBox360 a few weeks ago and have been doing some gaming as well


This has been discussed before. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with your picture tube that a new one would resolve.

The problem is simply that once excited the phosphors take a bit of time to go dark. And it's a function of brightness of the image before it disappears as well as how dark your viewing environment is, because the darker the room the easier it is to see the leftover ghosts on the screen.

Personally, I've never noticed nor cared. Only when the odd TV scene that has mostly dark except for something bright moving around (like a halogen flashlight on CSI in an otherwise very dark surrounding), or a bright flash which instantly appears and disappears, in which case if I pay attention closely I can notice it. But honestly, I never really noticed it before to complain about until it began to be discussed here. And I'm really not all that concerned about it, since it's not something that's "broken" and can actually be "fixed" (other than trying to minimize it by user-menu adjustments to brightness and contrast). It's really just inherent in phosphors. Most normal TV shows don't have such sudden extremes of brightness appearing and disappearing, and I don't play games on my XBR960.

Is this any worse than ghosting in LCD sets, where the "comet trail" is easily seen on high-speed motion? The newer sets have really addressed this problem and improved response time, but it's just inherent in the excite/decay time for these glowing pixels just like it is for phosphors on a CRT.

For virtually everything I watch in HD on network/premium TV (e.g. Rome, Boston Legal, etc.) which is generally daylight or well lit, there is zero ghosting.

Thanks DSperber for clearing that up for me. Lately I have been watching most of my programs at night with all the lights turned off. And I just bought an XBox360 a few weeks ago and have been doing some gaming as wellThe 34" is much too small and too bright to watch without lights on in a dark room. I highly recommend a bias light like the Ideal-Lume.

Hey everyone,

I was experimenting with different resolutions on my set, and I think I made a facinating discovery. The conventional wisdom is that this set upconverts incoming 720p and displays it as native 1080i. My careful observations tonight conflict with this. I noticed when feeding the set 720p, the interlaced flicker and "judder" was significantly less than when feeding the set a 1080i signal. I also noticed with 720p that as you increase the contrast, the reduction of focus compared to 1080i is significantly less. I am wondering if the set perhaps converts 720p to native 720i or some other interlaced resolution less than 1080i? Also, 720p seems to be a little clearer than 1080i, which makes me think there is quite a bit of overlapping/blurring of the scanning lines with native 1080i. With native 720i (or somethign similar), there would be more room and less overlap, which also explains why focus is better with 720p.

I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.

Anyone else ever noticed this? I'm really liking the results. The picture is more natural, and much easier on the eyes with 720p. Now if I could only get my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i.
This is wierd, I thought I noticed the opposite.
I fed the sony hddvd and upconverted dvd at 720P-1080i.
With broadcast and cablecard and my sa8300 cablebox the 1080i channels usually look better but sometimes some of the very well done 720P seem as good .
It may just be source dependant.
Or is it possible the 960 does 960i instead of 1080i in this situation?
I forget where I read it but someone using the 960 as a pc monitor was able to coax 1700x1080i for movies and somthing like 1180x683P for stable computer use.
So I guess anything is possible. :confused:

I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.

Did you notice a difference in picture quality using component as opposed to HDMI?

Update to my dead 960 topic; Sony is replacing it with a refurbished 960. But doesn't look like I can get any warranty beyond 90 days with it. Sigh. Fingers crossed.

Did you notice a difference in picture quality using component as opposed to HDMI?

Yes - component is about 15-20% clearer.

Yes - component is about 15-20% clearer.

Hmm. My experience has been somewhat opposite. Much sharper thru HDMI on my set. Of course I had to recalibrate all inputs individually. The HDMI brightness level had to be set MUCH higher than the component inputs.

We just had this discussion here a short while back. I think the conclusion was: it depends. At some point in the video chain things get converted to component video. It happens inside the set itself if you supply HDMI, or it happens somewhere external if you supply component. The only real question is are there some external devices that can do the conversion to component better than what the set does itself when supplied HDMI? I think possibly so - but it's a very external-device-specific call.

Every external device I have used provided the same increase in clarity via component. Chad Billheimer has verified that component is clearer than HDMI with with test patterns of his.

You do, however, need high quality, well shielded cables to block out any external noise that can reduce clarity. With some cheaper cables, component didn't look as good as HDMI.

The biggest negative is no upconversion of DVDs via component :(.

Every external device I have used provided the same increase in clarity via component. Chad Billheimer has verified that component is clearer than HDMI with with test patterns of his.

You do, however, need high quality, well shielded cables to block out any external noise that can reduce clarity. With some cheaper cables, component didn't look as good as HDMI.

The biggest negative is no upconversion of DVDs via component :(.

Hi,

We did have a discussion regarding HDMI versus Component - it was me who started it LOL.

If I recall, the consensus was that picture quality depended not so much on the type of cable but, as Mr2828 pointed out, the external device itself. I found the HD picture from my SA 8300 HD DVR far superior through HDMI than component, using the INHD test patterns for both inputs. In another forum some agreed that the SA 8300 HD DVR is better through HDMI than component, but that with the non-DVR HD boxes it didn't matter. So I was wondering what the case was with your HD-DVD player since the 960 has only has a single jack for HDMI.

It was also brought out that a "wire is just a wire" and inexpensive cables do not produce any less picture qualty as those selling for much more (but, as you mention, cheaper ones might not block out external noise) I have an $80 HDMI cable (realize now I overpaid for it) and used inexpensive ones for the component test. Since there was no noise or interference I was told by a few members of this forum that cost was not a factor in my comparision results.

i just bought a 34XBR910 off eBay for $400. of course this doesn't have hdmi but does have DVI. has anyone rated the quality of an hdmi to DVI connection? I don't have any components that use hdmi (as yet) so component is fine with me, but as i get more new stuff, HD TiVo, AppleTV and a PS3 (over time) i'll need to utilise all three of the xbr910's HD inputs. i'm guessing that i may lose some quality with the hdmi->dvi cable right?

i just bought a 34XBR910 off eBay for $400. of course this doesn't have hdmi but does have DVI. has anyone rated the quality of an hdmi to DVI connection? I don't have any components that use hdmi (as yet) so component is fine with me, but as i get more new stuff, HD TiVo, AppleTV and a PS3 (over time) i'll need to utilise all three of the xbr910's HD inputs. i'm guessing that i may lose some quality with the hdmi->dvi cable right?

Hi,

Don't be concerned about any difference in quality. The advantage of HDMI is that it carries audio along with video (DVI is just video).

Should your future HD cable box, DVD player, PS3, etc have only HDMI outputs, simple converters are available that can be attached to one end of a HDMI cable making it a DVI plug.

Best of luck with your 910.

Just got the latest release of "Goldfinger" on DVD. I already had the original special edition released many years ago yet seeing the new digital frame-by-frame remastered version just blew me away. Super sharp, no grain and vibrant color - fantastic quality for a 43 year old movie.

Last night watched Star Wars III and was blown away even moreso. Awesome near-HD quality. It just shows what a great transfer can do, even for standard 480I discs.

Somebody on cNet pointed out that while there is an improvement, the difference between 480I and 1080P is not as dramatic as the jump from VHS to DVD. My point is with the 960's line doubling to 960I (wonder if that identical number is just coincidence) making standard DVDs look this great, there is only nominal gain going with upconversion or HD/Blue-Ray players. This might not be true with other sets but it sure does apply to the 960, still the best set around!

BTW - while I use PRO mode for HD and standard broadcast, the MOVIE mode is used for DVD.

Hi,

We did have a discussion regarding HDMI versus Component - it was me who started it LOL.

If I recall, the consensus was that picture quality depended not so much on the type of cable but, as Mr2828 pointed out, the external device itself. I found the HD picture from my SA 8300 HD DVR far superior through HDMI than component, using the INHD test patterns for both inputs. In another forum some agreed that the SA 8300 HD DVR is better through HDMI than component, but that with the non-DVR HD boxes it didn't matter. So I was wondering what the case was with your HD-DVD player since the 960 has only has a single jack for HDMI.

The HD-DVD player was sharper via component by the same amount as my cable box.

It was also brought out that a "wire is just a wire" and inexpensive cables do not produce any less picture qualty as those selling for much more (but, as you mention, cheaper ones might not block out external noise) I have an $80 HDMI cable (realize now I overpaid for it) and used inexpensive ones for the component test. Since there was no noise or interference I was told by a few members of this forum that cost was not a factor in my comparision results.

Wire matters little with audio, but not for video. It isn't so much the wire, but the shielding of the wire from EMI and RFI noise that I think accounts for the bulk of the difference. Sometimes the noise can be subtle, reducing clarity without being overtly noticable. If you weren't using exceptionally well shielded component cables, there is good chance you weren't seeing the full "clarity" potential of component. I'm using the Blue Jeans cable 7710a with my HD-DVD player. I haven't gone back to compare cheap cables on this TV, but did on a previous LCD TV, and the difference really suprised me - not the least bit subtle and noticable immediately. I don't know if the difference on a CRT would be as dramatic, but I bet it would make a significnant difference.

Check out:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/component/index.htm

The HD-DVD player was sharper via component by the same amount as my cable box.



Wire matters little with audio, but not for video. It isn't so much the wire, but the shielding of the wire from EMI and RFI noise that I think accounts for the bulk of the difference. Sometimes the noise can be subtle, reducing clarity without being overtly noticable. If you weren't using exceptionally well shielded component cables, there is good chance you weren't seeing the full "clarity" potential of component. I'm using the Blue Jeans cable 7710a with my HD-DVD player. I haven't gone back to compare cheap cables on this TV, but did on a previous LCD TV, and the difference really suprised me - not the least bit subtle and noticable immediately. I don't know if the difference on a CRT would be as dramatic, but I bet it would make a significnant difference.

Check out:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/component/index.htm

Yeah proper shielding really does make a difference, especially if you have a lot of cables behind your entertainment center like myself.

It don't really have any problems with interferance though since all my videocables are high grade quality and proper shielding, plus i seperate my video cables from the power cables and move them away from each other,there's a good tip for anybody that wants to keep their signal clean as possible!

Yeah proper shielding really does make a difference, especially if you have a lot of cables behind your entertainment center like myself.

It don't really have any problems with interferance though since all my videocables are high grade quality and proper shielding, plus i seperate my video cables from the power cables and move them away from each other,there's a good tip for anybody that wants to keep their signal clean as possible!
I have found the component outs from my HD A1 to be more pleasing to these eyes. It retains the sharpness of HDMI but smoother at the same time, more film like if you will. Colors have more impact and black more depth. I use Bettercables.com Silver Serpents and I can't recommend them enough. They are somewhat expensive but not ridiculously so, what you get in return more than makes up for it.

Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.

Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?

Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.

Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?

There are probably a very scant few new ones out there, but your chances of finding one are very, very slim. You can go to your local best buy and have them search all surrounding stores in whatever mile radius you tell them. That is how I found mine, but that was back in August of 2006. The other chance is ebay. I haven't seen any new ones in a while, but used 960s and XS955s show up quite frequently; however, most are local pick-up only.

BTW, in case you don't know, the XS955 has the same Super Fine Pitch Tube as the 960. Their PQ is identical.

Yeah I tried Best Buy on my way home tonight and there are no 960's in a two state radius. I'll give Circuit City a shot tomorrow, but I'm not expecting anything. Do you suppose calling Sony directly could help? I don't see the 960 in their online store anymore, but I suppose that doesn't mean they don't have a few left in stock somewhere (for replacements and such). Then again, I'm not sure if they do direct sales like that.

the XS955 has the same Super Fine Pitch Tube as the 960. Their PQ is identical

On that I have to disagree. I tested both with identical material on identical settings and the 960 had a consistently better picture. The 955 isn't bad at all and better than the 970, but I still believe the 960 was the best mainstream consumer CRT set ever produced. :)

Tempest, You should call the Sony Factory Outlets because they still get 960's. If you don't mind getting a refurbished set, you can find one for a very good price. You also have the option of a 5-year extended warranty for next to nothing. -CK

Yeah I tried Best Buy on my way home tonight and there are no 960's in a two state radius.

Not surprising, since there has not been a single 960 manufactured in two years.

Tempest, You should call the Sony Factory Outlets because they still get 960's. If you don't mind getting a refurbished set, you can find one for a very good price. You also have the option of a 5-year extended warranty for next to nothing. -CK

I thought about that, but do they ship or is it a pick up in the store only kind of thing? They closed the one Sony outlet in my state a few years back and the closest one now is over three hours away.

Buying anything refurbished makes me very nervous. Then again, a 5 year warrenty would ease those fears. What do refurb 960's go for from Sony anyway?

XS955? First I've heard of this. Is it a CRT HDTV as well? I thought the 960 and 970 were my only choices.

Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.

Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?



Why would you want to buy a 960? I've had serious, recurring problems with my 960 (see my earlier post elsewhere in this thread) and would never buy it again! Though I'm not familiar with the 970, one can always hope that it represents and improvement over the 960!

Why would you want to buy a 960? I've had serious, recurring problems with my 960 (see my earlier post elsewhere in this thread) and would never buy it again! Though I'm not familiar with the 970, one can always hope that it represents and improvement over the 960!

The 960 has the Super Fine Pitch screen, whereas the 970 does not. However I too have heard of terrible reliability issues with the 960 which makes me a bit leary of it.

On that I have to disagree. I tested both with identical material on identical settings and the 960 had a consistently better picture. The 955 isn't bad at all and better than the 970, but I still believe the 960 was the best mainstream consumer CRT set ever produced. :)

The both use the exact same parts for the picture tube (check the parts list for both), and settings are not transferable from set to set. Different settings are needed from set to set in order to achieve the same levels. The only difference is the 960 has the anitglare coating and the 955 does not. I have owned both - PQ is identical without the coating.

I got my 960 shipped from a Sony Outlet through a third-party freight shipper. I got the set with a 5-yr warranty for under $700. I suggest freightquote.com for shipping. It's at least worth looking into. -CK

Has anyone ever seen the 960 and the 960N side by side? Could you tell any difference in picture quality between the two? Does the anti-glare coating help or hurt?

Have the 36xs955 and love it. Best PQ I have seen on any set. There was a 960 right next to my set with the same feed. I adjusted the video settings so they were the same and so no difference in the PQ except that the 960 looked less vibrant. The anti-glare coating explains the difference. Since a majority of the time my wife and kids watch 4:3 programming, I felt the
set was a good compromise. I just wished I had got the 34" version a year earlier instead of my Panasonic 34wx54. My Panny is a nice set but the resolution is not as good. I keep looking at the Plasmas and LCD sets and find the PQ not even close to my Sony. Maybe when we start seeing true 1080p Plasmas sets I might get a bigger set.

Has anyone ever seen the 960 and the 960N side by side? Could you tell any difference in picture quality between the two? Does the anti-glare coating help or hurt?

I removed the anti-glare coating on my 960. Without the coating the picture is about 15-20% brighter and about 5-10% clearer. If I had a choice, I'd get the "N" model since the coating is really difficult to remove.

Artwood, I've owned both and the only difference I noticed is that the screen on the 960 looks more like a flat finish and the N is more glossy, like flat black vs gloss black paint, probably more like semi-gloss vs gloss.

Have the 36xs955 and love it. Best PQ I have seen on any set. There was a 960 right next to my set with the same feed. I adjusted the video settings so they were the same and so no difference in the PQ except that the 960 looked less vibrant.

Hi,

Know the 955 offers a great picture, however, the 960 might not have been properly adjusted because using the exact settings on both yields slightly different picture results due to the 960 having a super fine pitch CRT and a DRC-MF1V Circuitry with palette options for clarity and level. The best comparision method is using the same test patterns on each and adjusting the video settings accordingly.

:)

At the PMA, I see where Sony has some new cameras that have a way to view pictures directly via component cable on a HD tv in high definition. We 960 owners already have that. If you format your digital pictures to 16x9 and put them on a memory stick, you can view them on the 960 and they fill the screen and are very sharp. Actually you only need the equivilent of a 2 megapixel camera to get 1920 x
1080 which is HD resolution. Now, the reason I say all this.

I don't have a device that normally uses a memory stick but I bought one, a 128 Mb
to try out this function. It works, sorta. I don't know if my memory stick is bad or what, but it works sometimes. Some pictures won't display and if I put a lot of pictures on it and run in slide show mode it will show about 20-30 then say it has an error, but sometimes it works fine. Mine is a Sony brand stick.

Has anyone else tried this with good results?

Hi,

Know the 955 offers a great picture, however, the 960 might not have been properly adjusted because using the exact settings on both yields slightly different picture results due to the 960 having a super fine pitch CRT and a DRC-MF1V Circuitry with palette options for clarity and level. The best comparision method is using the same test patterns on each and adjusting the video settings accordingly.

:)

Both sets have the SFP tube and same guts less a few extras and the 960 has a antiglare coating. That is why it looked a bit darker then the XS955. Both sets are fantastic and would love to get a 34" 960 or a 34" xs955.

Both sets have the SFP tube and same guts less a few extras and the 960 has a antiglare coating. That is why it looked a bit darker then the XS955. Both sets are fantastic and would love to get a 34" 960 or a 34" xs955.

Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).

For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.

www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tube/fd_trinitron_training1_v2.cfm

Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.

Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).

For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.

www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tube/fd_trinitron_training1_v2.cfm

Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.

The XS955 and XBR960 are both SFP (your link confirms).
XS omits the adjustable DRC, Firewire, Twin-View and XBR warranty. That's why the XBR has a higher price.

The XS955 and XBR960 are both SFP (your link confirms).
XS omits the adjustable DRC, Firewire, Twin-View and XBR warranty. That's why the XBR has a higher price.

Please know I'm really feeling bad because it is only my intention to explain why use of the same settings might have caused the 960's picture to look less vivid. I'm not at all putting down the 955 because it is a great set.

Didn't you mention that you have the 36 inch version, which is a 4:3 screen? If so, what you have is the Trinitron CRT. From that link:

16:9 Super Fine Pitch™ CRT --- (Not on KD-32XS945 and KD-36XS955.)

The Super Fine Pitch CRT is for 16:9 sets. If you have the 30 or 34 models, then it seems your set has it but without the palette and color axis functions.

The adjustable palette does make a difference - I noticed mine became more vivid with an approximate 75 reality setting than lower (especially with the whites).

Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).

For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.

www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tube/fd_trinitron_training1_v2.cfm

Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.

Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.

I'm a year-long Kd-34xbr960N owner. No significant problems at all. I DO need a real pro ISF calibration person, though, because I want to use the set in a professional setting. I am in Los Angeles. Can anyone recommend a person?

I'm not a rich guy, so costs count.

The set needs color, grayscale, RGB convergence, geometry, overscan adjustments on both the Component HD and HDMI inputs.

Its funny how some of those issues above do not occur on an LCD or plasma, yet the subtlety of a CRT image still makes it worth it.

-Christopher S. Johnson

Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.

The V2500 and XBR2 have vastly different picture engines. Bravia Pro (DRC2.5) is much much better. Watch them together, the Sony demo perfectly shows when the screen goes dark you can still see backlighting highlights on the 2500, where the XBR2 maintains a rock solid black...something extremely impressive for an LCD.

You may be mixing it up with the XBR2 and XBR3, which are the same exact displays save for cosmetics (bezel). The 2500 is good, but the XBR2 is in a class by itself.

Back on topic: the 955 also lacks the TwinView option that the 960 has. I don't remember if the DRC engine is the same.

I really wish these CRTs didnt have uneven focus at the sides of the screen ..it can be distracting when playing certain video games ,I've been playing Worms on Xbox360 lately and the loss of focus at the sides is pretty apparent, mainly due to the fact you use all areas of the screen during gameplay instead of focusing on the center like a lot of videogames.

Almost makes me want to buy a nice DLP set for gaming.

Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.

Hi,

My SINCERE apologies!

That link was from Sony on how retailers could best sell their products but it seems their printed information was incorrect (saying SFP CRT not on the 4:3 models - I think they meant it was not a 16x9 tube but was not stated clearly enough). Neither the 960 or 955 is featured on Sony's website but checking amazon and other threads they all do state SFP CRT.

Again, my concern was why you saw a less vibrant picture on the 960. There could be many reasons like using the same settings for different size tubes, not adjusting the DCR palette feature, having the red emphasized or de-emphasized, etc.

As we've each said, both are great sets and the argument would come when somebody tries to compare either to a Phillips.

Hi,

Again, my concern was why you saw a less vibrant picture on the 960. There could be many reasons like using the same settings for different size tubes, not adjusting the DCR palette feature, having the red emphasized or de-emphasized, etc.



He mentioned his 955 doesn't have an Anti glare coating (which is why it has a brighter picture than his 960) The newer XBR960N model doesn't have an anti glare coating either, I guess Sony figured it was worth the boost in brightness.

He mentioned his 955 doesn't have an Anti glare coating (which is why it has a brighter picture than his 960) The newer XBR960N model doesn't have an anti glare coating either, I guess Sony figured it was worth the boost in brightness.

The other possibility is the DRC palette which I find affects the white level not so much as the overall brightness.

What does this DRC Palette do exactly? I have fooled around with it, but I can never seem to see any difference. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks, CK

The xs955 has DRC but I think it lacks the fine tuning that the 960 has. My friend has a xbr800 with this feature. My DRC is greyed on progressive signals. Though my H20 box does a better job then the DRC.

What does this DRC Palette do exactly? I have fooled around with it, but I can never seem to see any difference. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks, CK

I know, the manual gets me confused as well but I think the palette lets one control how much more detail they want brought into the picture. For example, on my DVD component input I noticed some additional minute details (like more facial blemishes) and stronger whites when the reality was increased to 76 and the clarity at 71 (anything higher made the picture grainy). For HDMI, the palette only comes into effect when watching standard definition and because of it's limited resolution, I have the palette adjusted at 66 in both clarity and reality.

The manual says the 960 doubles the lines of vertical and horizontal resolution resulting in four times the density of quality sources like DVD and upconverts it to near-HD quality. So it's my guess that the palette is a fine tuning of the resolution so the details will appear as strong and natural as as possible. I can believe it because I once saw a DVD on a different set (LCD); the color and sharpness was quite pleasing but I hardly noticed stubble or blemishes on facial skin while on the 960 it's more prevalent, no matter how much they are covered up by make-up. I also saw more strands of grass.
This is different than sharpness which basicly controls the focus.

Again, the manual is ambigious because too little is said but I hope my understanding is somewhat near correct.

What about 1080i via component? Does the DRC Palette do anything?

What about 1080i via component? Does the DRC Palette do anything?DRC works with NTSC signals, 480i/p

I haven't played around with it with DVD (need to check into that) but I've never been impressed with the DRC for my cable broadcast NTSC/480i signals. In fact I hate it. It seems to give the picture a really funky digital look most of the time. I think maybe it's dependent on the quality of the signal because it does seem to look a little better on quality 480i signals. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I prefer the picture on my 36" non-hd Wega.

I haven't played around with it with DVD (need to check into that) but I've never been impressed with the DRC for my cable broadcast NTSC/480i signals. In fact I hate it. It seems to give the picture a really funky digital look most of the time. I think maybe it's dependent on the quality of the signal because it does seem to look a little better on quality 480i signals. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I prefer the picture on my 36" non-hd Wega.


You're right - it depends upon the source. Turner Classic Movies looks better on the 960 than my non-HD sets while other stations show more grain.

Upconversion brings out both the strengths and (unfortunately) the shortcomings of standard definition broadcasts that are masked on non-HD sets.

Does anybody have a link to find this tube for sale anymore? I have one place at over $1K us, but is $375 more than I can find the lesser 970. Is the 960 worth the price increase? I'm really having a hard time finding any other prices.

Hello - I have a 34xbr960 that I ammoving (withthe helpof 3 people) into a spare rom;
is it possible to hook speakers (regular JBL 8 ohm) directly to the speaker outputs on the rear panel, without going through amplifier/reeciver, without injuring XBR?
I had been using an Onkyo TX-SR604, but I am going to update main TV room to a Aquos, and I do not have an amplifier avaialble for my ol' trustworthy XBR960.
Thanks, -paul

The audio out looks to be 2 kilohms. Not sure if there is some sort of converter you could use or not.

Does anybody have a link to find this tube for sale anymore? I have one place at over $1K us, but is $375 more than I can find the lesser 970. Is the 960 worth the price increase? I'm really having a hard time finding any other prices.

If it's new - it's totally worth the premium. You're really lucky if you have found a new one.

I have a strange question that I hope isn't answered in the thread (tried searching). My DVD player has started exhibiting a strange behavior. Essentially a widesreen movie displays as "zoomed out", meaning black bars display at the left, right, top and bottom of the image when viewine in "Normal" view on the 960. I have confirmed the basics (i.e., player set to a screen mode of 16:9)yet I have to select Zoom mode on the 960 to get the proper ratio (widescreen with small black bars on the top and bottom as expected).

Other inputs (D* via HDMI) are unaffected.

I wonder if there is something up with my DVD player (nothing special... just a Sony DVP-NS725P connected via a monster component cable) or if I am flaking and there is some combination of settings that could cause this. Anyone have a similar situation? I've tried googling but end up up with piles of people suprised to see black bars after getting an HDTV. This is *not* the symptom I am getting... I am seeing black bars at the top, bottom, left and right of the screen. Best way I can describe it is that it is zoomed out, or watching a PC video in Windows Media Player at a "small" setting.

I have a strange question that I hope isn't answered in the thread (tried searching). My DVD player has started exhibiting a strange behavior. Essentially a widesreen movie displays as "zoomed out", meaning black bars display at the left, right, top and bottom of the image when viewine in "Normal" view on the 960. I have confirmed the basics (i.e., player set to a screen mode of 16:9)yet I have to select Zoom mode on the 960 to get the proper ratio (widescreen with small black bars on the top and bottom as expected).

Other inputs (D* via HDMI) are unaffected.

I wonder if there is something up with my DVD player (nothing special... just a Sony DVP-NS725P connected via a monster component cable) or if I am flaking and there is some combination of settings that could cause this. Anyone have a similar situation? I've tried googling but end up up with piles of people suprised to see black bars after getting an HDTV. This is *not* the symptom I am getting... I am seeing black bars at the top, bottom, left and right of the screen. Best way I can describe it is that it is zoomed out, or watching a PC video in Windows Media Player at a "small" setting.


Does it happen for all of your DVD's or just some of them? What you are describing sounds like what I see when I play a DVD that is mastered as non-anamorphic widescreen. I get this on some older titles I have like Criterion Armageddon and Superbit 5th Element. There is a wiki entry that has more specific info on it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letterbox#Pillarboxing_and_gutterboxing

I'm a year-long Kd-34xbr960N owner. No significant problems at all. I DO need a real pro ISF calibration person, though, because I want to use the set in a professional setting. I am in Los Angeles. Can anyone recommend a person?

I'm not a rich guy, so costs count.

The set needs color, grayscale, RGB convergence, geometry, overscan adjustments on both the Component HD and HDMI inputs.
I'm a bit surprised he didn't say anything in response to this, but our very own GlenC (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=74795) is an ISF calibrator down in Whittier.

Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.

I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?

After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.

Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.

I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?

After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.


There is no 'Normal' screen setting on the 960. If your dvd player is set to 16:9 and your screen is set to 'Full' and you're connected via HDMI or component 480p/i, you'll get whatever the DVD is mastered to display. I've seen so-called "widescreen" DVDs do all of the following:

- Letterboxed widescreen image when TV is set to Full, e.g. "Lord of the Rings", "Harry Potter", "Star Wars", etc. (Image distorts vertically if Zoom mode is selected.)

- Full 16:9 image when TV is set to Full, e.g. "Finding Nemo".

- Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode just to get a widescreen letterboxed image, e.g. "The Godfather" and "The Deer Hunter" original DVD releases.

- Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode to fill screen with unletterboxed, undistorted image, e.g. "Pulp Fiction", "Doctor Who" on SciFi (okay, not a DVD, but you get the idea).

You may not want to know this much information, but the 960's screen modes also seem to work differently depending on your source resolution and format. For example, consider the top type of DVD -- say, "Harry Potter". If you feed a Harry Potter DVD to the 960 via an upscaling DVD player and choose an upscaled HD output format (say, 1080i), then the 960 Zoom mode will correctly zoom the picture without distortion. The same exact DVD fed at 480i/480p results in vertical zoom distortion. It's not explicitly stated anywhere, but I assume this is because the 960 Zoom automatically assumes that 480i/p signals are 4:3, not 16:9 (and vice versa for HD signals).

Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode just to get a widescreen letterboxed image, e.g. "The Godfather" and "The Deer Hunter" original DVD releases.

Just a nit: "The Godfather" on DVD has always been a 16:9 1.85 presentation.

- Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode to fill screen with unletterboxed, undistorted image, e.g. "Pulp Fiction", "Doctor Who" on SciFi (okay, not a DVD, but you get the idea).

Not sure what you mean here since "Pulp Fiction" is 2.35. The VISTA Special Edition is 16:9

You may not want to know this much information, but the 960's screen modes also seem to work differently depending on your source resolution and format. For example, consider the top type of DVD -- say, "Harry Potter". If you feed a Harry Potter DVD to the 960 via an upscaling DVD player and choose an upscaled HD output format (say, 1080i), then the 960 Zoom mode will correctly zoom the picture without distortion. The same exact DVD fed at 480i/480p results in vertical zoom distortion. It's not explicitly stated anywhere, but I assume this is because the 960 Zoom automatically assumes that 480i/p signals are 4:3, not 16:9 (and vice versa for HD signals).

Not sure what you mean here. Any HD signal (720p, 1080i) will set the 960's output to "FULL". There is no zooming involved.

480i/p material will be set to either "normal" or "full" depending on the ID1 detection: the flag on 16:9 DVDs, unless you've set "4:3 Default" to a different mode.

Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.

I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?

After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.

What you are seeing is that certain older DVDs were not 16:9 anamorphic enhanced, they are simply letterboxed and don't contain the 33% resolution enhancement from a native 16:9 transfer. The discs you listed have since been reissued with new 16:9 transfers.

Note: even some of the first DVDs have 16:9 transfers (Warner & Sony/Columbia) so they appear in FULL mode on my 960.

The 960 supports ID1 which is a flag on 16:9 material telling the TV to automatically set it to "FULL", now I've heard of some DVD players not outputting the signal properly, so you have to watch out.

Hope this helps.

Not sure what you mean here. Any HD signal (720p, 1080i) will set the 960's output to "FULL". There is no zooming involved.

480i/p material will be set to either "normal" or "full" depending on the ID1 detection: the flag on 16:9 DVDs, unless you've set "4:3 Default" to a different mode.

The 16:9 flag appears to have no effect on screen mode behavior (other than telling the 960 to switch to Full) -- it's the signal resolution that controls the available screen mode options.

So, what I mean is this, and it's basically right out of the owner's manual:

If you don't want letterboxed/pillarboxed content and you prefer to use Zoom (or Wide Zoom) to get the image to fill the screen, you get different screen mode options and behavior depending on whether the signal is 480i/p or 720p/1080i.

With most of the DVDs I've tried, the 960 does not zoom 16:9 letterboxed material presented in 480i/p without distorting. The same source material presented in 720/1080 zooms with no distortion.

If you never zoom anything and you're happy with letterboxing, you'll never notice this. I sit far enough away that I usually prefer having a full-screen image, and sometimes that means a zoom mode.

To accommodate the set's behavior, I use an upscaling DVD player. For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good); for standard 16:9 material, I use whatever looks good and Full; and for letterboxed 16:9, I use 1080i and Zoom. I also have a PVR, but that has an "AUTO HDMI" setting which just transmits the signal in whatever the original source resolution was and then the set handles it appropriately. The only exception is 4:3 pillarboxed HD, and the only time it's ever bothered me is spring training (which is being broadcast in 1080i on NESNHD but source is 4:3).

Hope this clears up my earlier post, and sorry to have been inaccurate on DVD formats.

The 16:9 flag appears to have no effect on screen mode behavior (other than telling the 960 to switch to Full) -- it's the signal resolution that controls the available screen mode options............The ID1 flag is a little more than that. The combination of the DVD player set to 16:9 and an anamorphic/enhanced for 16:9 DVD results in the 480 signal being sent to the tv in a vertically compressed format. The tv must uncompress to display this signal correctly. For the Sony, auto-detection of the ID1 flag puts the tv in the FULL screen mode which correctly uncompresses the signal.

.............With most of the DVDs I've tried, the 960 does not zoom 16:9 letterboxed material presented in 480i/p without distorting. ...This behavior is due to the above combination of DVD player settings.

.. The same source material presented in 720/1080 zooms with no distortion. .........This behavior is due to your upconverting player formating the 480 material on the DVD to an appropriate HD format. FULL screen mode will still be the correct mode for viewing the entire movie.

.....If you never zoom anything and you're happy with letterboxing, you'll never notice this. I sit far enough away that I usually prefer having a full-screen image, and sometimes that means a zoom mode.....I prefer to see the entire movie rather than crop the left and right sides. The same reason I don't buy/rent fools frame, pre-cropped, versions of DVDs.

......For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good); ........I agree.

Can anyone tell me where would find one of these sets in good condition. I live in the Uk and I have only the choice of one CRT HD which I have, the Samsung slimfit, but it's nowhere near in the league of this spectacular set, and I am more than willing to pay the 600 dollars or more for shipping to get a crt HD like this. Please can anyone help me, I want to secure this HD crt before it dissapears, as this has the most amazing pcture I have ever seen.

Can anyone tell me where would find one of these sets in good condition. I live in the Uk and I have only the choice of one CRT HD which I have, the Samsung slimfit, but it's nowhere near in the league of this spectacular set, and I am more than willing to pay the 600 dollars or more for shipping to get a crt HD like this. Please can anyone help me, I want to secure this HD crt before it dissapears, as this has the most amazing pcture I have ever seen.

Don't get a set manufactured for distribution in the United States. We use a different transmission standard (NTSC). You would need a PAL set in the UK.

Mark

[QUOTE=tvh3ad] For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good)QUOTE]

I use wide zoom for 4x3 material as well and my only regret is that it cuts off the bottom portion of the news ticker on some channels because the vertical adjustment is about at max so to have a picture with the least amount of horizontal center stretching.

When you use 480p, do you mean the output from the cable box or dvd player? I experimented with upconverting and progressive scan settings and the picture quality did not look as good as opposed to a 480i feed allowing the Sony to do the upconversion instead (progressive signals cannot be upconverted). From what I understand, the picture quality is increased four times by the 960 so quality sources like DVD are converted to near high definition standards (like an upconverting DVD player). And I found digital TV looks better letting the Sony do the job instead of the cable box.

Try it and see which works best for you.

Thanks guys. I think I just primarily watched newer DVDs and didn't pay mind to the screen mode being auto-set to "Full". The gutterboxed older DVDs kind of threw me for a loop and assumed something was wrong with the old dvd player (I have a quick trigger finger when it provides an excuse for buying a new toy).

Don't get a set manufactured for distribution in the United States. We use a different transmission standard (NTSC). You would need a PAL set in the UK.

Mark

Yeah that's fine, I will be using it primarily for my NTSC broadcasting and recording and games equipment, and I use satellite through ntsc component.

So it's this NTSC model that I am after, so do you know where I could still find one??Used is fine.

hi guys
I am new to this great forum and need some help
living in europe and having received a 34xs955 from a relative coming from usa,i need a transformer for 220v to 120v.However with startup surge ,the 955(with 250w)draws a lot more power,but i don't know how much.So would appreciate some power number that let me purchase a correct transformer.

When you use 480p, do you mean the output from the cable box or dvd player? I experimented with upconverting and progressive scan settings and the picture quality did not look as good as opposed to a 480i feed allowing the Sony to do the upconversion instead (progressive signals cannot be upconverted). From what I understand, the picture quality is increased four times by the 960 so quality sources like DVD are converted to near high definition standards (like an upconverting DVD player). And I found digital TV looks better letting the Sony do the job instead of the cable box.

I mean the DVD player. I have a new player with a very nice ABT deinterlacer which passes 480i as well as 480p/720p/1080i. I've experimented quite a bit and I think it looks slightly better both at 480p and 1080i than the Sony. (My old DVD player was best at 480i with the Sony doing the upscaling.) Interestingly, the Sony's Zoom is slightly better than the DVD player's -- it's a bit sharper.

For TV broadcast and cable, the 960 does a much better job with upscaling 480i than my PVR/tuner, which was also made by Sony. (I use cablecards, so I have no other cable box to compare against.)

I prefer to see the entire movie rather than crop the left and right sides. The same reason I don't buy/rent fools frame, pre-cropped, versions of DVDs.



I completely agree...but 8+ ft away and a letterboxed image on a 34" screen just doesn't do it for me. Until I can replace the set with something larger without compromising the image (or losing the ability to watch SD and have it look halfway decent), I can live with zooming letterboxed anamorphic content. And, for the reasons you described, the only way I've found to do that is to use a good upscaling player. (HD/blu-ray would work too, but I'm not ready to go there yet.)

So are any of you guys going to upgrade soon to a bigger tv and looking to sell on your 960's?? I am really desperate to get one, or if you guys could point me to a store in the US that may still carry them, I'd be mega grateful.

Best Buy, Katy, TX had 1 last week -floor model minor scratches. Greenspoint, TX (houston) Best Buy had 1 a month ago - floor model with some scratches. I think one other one somewhere in Texas had a new one in stock (I had them check on computer). Starting to give good discounts (35-50% depending if you take it in the form of a Best Buy gift card)

Thanks alot for your post, I take it you have to call these stores to get the info on stock??

I was in the store and had them check the stock of the item number. They can't do any kind of a national search but can do regional searches. IIRC, there was one new one left in Brownsville, TX that wasn't a display but I don't know how the ship or move items.

I mean the DVD player. I have a new player with a very nice ABT deinterlacer which passes 480i as well as 480p/720p/1080i. I've experimented quite a bit and I think it looks slightly better both at 480p and 1080i than the Sony. (My old DVD player was best at 480i with the Sony doing the upscaling.) Interestingly, the Sony's Zoom is slightly better than the DVD player's -- it's a bit sharper.

For TV broadcast and cable, the 960 does a much better job with upscaling 480i than my PVR/tuner, which was also made by Sony. (I use cablecards, so I have no other cable box to compare against.)

Thanks for getting back. The 960's additional 480 lines of resolutation is 20% less than the 600 outputted by an upconverting DVD player so I can understand it providing a slightly better picture.

When I asked the forum which they preferred responses were mixed - some felt the Sony provided a better picture, others felt it was the DVD player and some noticed no difference with either. What I find interesting is that you notice a slightly sharper picture using the 960's zoom. I do lots of DVD recording which requires use of the zoom mode since widescreen material is recorded in a 4x3 aspect ratio. That's important for me to know should I consider purchase of an upconversion player, however, I also wonder why Sony's line doubler does a better job with non-amaphoric material than one that upconverts it to full 1080i resolution.

Best Buy, Katy, TX had 1 last week -floor model minor scratches. Greenspoint, TX (Houston) Best Buy had 1 a month ago - floor model with some scratches. I think one other one somewhere in Texas had a new one in stock (I had them check on computer). Starting to give good discounts (35-50% depending if you take it in the form of a Best Buy gift card)

I just got the XBR960 from Katy’s Best Buy. There are two Best Buys on Katy, but only one on Price Plaza had one display left, so I think that is the one you mentioned. Thanks for info, :) I wanted to get 960 since late January but pretty much gave up on finding one in or close to Houston. Little did I know that I had one sitting about 30 minutes drive from my house heh. They also had it on clearance special for 600$ plus 600$ Best Buy gift card. After little haggling, they sold it to me for 500$ plus 600$ gift card. The TV is in very good condition. Two small 1/2 inch scratches on the tube to the paint, but they unnoticeable most of the time, and I can’t find anything else wrong with it.

I saw XBR 960 from Greenspoint’s Best Buy abut two months ago when I was actively looking for 960(That set was the only one that I was able to actually see in person). Its screen had big somewhat round scratch about 3-4 inches in diameter in one of the corners. Considering the Best Buy was asking 900$ for it at the time, I decided not to get it and keep XBR 970 just bought instead.

I put XBR 960 in my bedroom and moved XBR 970 from my bedroom to the living room. I must say the picture on 960 is stunning :) My XBOX 360 games and HDTV look great. Overall I am very happy with the set.

Thanks a lot for your post, I take it you have to call these stores to get the info on stock??


To my knowledge, Best Best doesn’t usually ship open box or display units. They may choose to deliver if you live close by, but there is no guarantee. As far as oversea shipments or even same state shipments for that matter go, Best Buy doesn't do it even if you hire shipping company. I know this because during my search last January, I found one at Best Buy about 6 hours drive from Houston. I asked the store clerk if it is possible to ship XBR 960, and he told me that Best Buy doesn't ship open items, and that I will have to pick up the set myself. I even asked if arrangement through 3rd party shipping company was possible just for the heck if it, and the clerk still told me no. Also, when I was checking out 960 at the Greenspoint's store last January, I asked if they will deliver as well and the salesman told me no, which surprised me since it is only 30 minutes drive. I think Best Buy doesn't want to deal with possibility of set being broken during transfer without the box. I think, the store that I bought my set from was eager to get rid of it, and I lived close enough for them to agree on delivery. If you find new in box, they will probably ship it at least inside the U. S. not sure about overseas though.

Anyway, I have a few questions about my new set:)

How does this set look with PS3?

Since I have 600$ gift card from Best Buy now, I am thinking about picking up one for games and Blue ray movie action.

Which connection is better HDMI or component for this set?

I am planning to calibrate it tonight with DVE, and I always go crossed eyed from adjusting sharpness and contrast settings lol.

Can anyone tell me the good way to adjust these two or/and in what range should I stay for these two?

I just got the XBR960 from Katy’s Best Buy. There are two Best Buys on Katy, but only one on Price Plaza had one display left, so I think that is the one you mentioned. Thanks for info, :) I wanted to get 960 since late January but pretty much gave up on finding one in or close to Houston. Little did I know that I had one sitting about 30 minutes drive from my house heh. They also had it on clearance special for 600$ plus 600$ Best Buy gift card. After little haggling, they sold it to me for 500$ plus 600$ gift card. The TV is in very good condition. Two small 1/2 inch scratches on the tube to the paint, but they unnoticeable most of the time, and I can’t find anything else wrong with it.

I've only used my 960 with HDMI (through a Monoprice switcher), and I'm not a gamer, so I can't help too much here.

I just had to comment on what you paid for the set... You paid $500, and you got a $600 gift card? So they essentially paid you $100 to take the set off their hands? Wow! You scored!

Congrats! You'll love the set!

Larry

I think he got the set for 500 on condition of buying a 600 gc. If it were as you said my head would explode from envy. LOL

Now you tell me! Mine already exploded!

Maybe I misunderstand BB gift cards. They are selling a lot of open box stuff in my area for a set price a little bit under list, but including a gift card when you purchase it. So, "buy a returned $2000 LCD for $1700 and get a $300 gift card" is what I'm seeing a lot of out here (LA area). That's why I read it that way...

Larry

I think he got the set for 500 on condition of buying a 600 gc. If it were as you said my head would explode from envy. LOL

Yep I paid 1100$ plus tax but only 500$ went toward the set itself the rest of money went towards Best Buy gift card. These were Best Buy terms. Original terms were 600$ for the set and 600$ gift card, but I haggeled it a bit lol.

For people who don't want to buy gift card they has second option where you pay 900$ for TV only.

They had buch of old CRT on sale like that. I am not sure if it is national wide clearance or not.

Now you tell me! Mine already exploded!

Maybe I misunderstand BB gift cards. They are selling a lot of open box stuff in my area for a set price a little bit under list, but including a gift card when you purchase it. So, "buy a returned $2000 LCD for $1700 and get a $300 gift card" is what I'm seeing a lot of out here (LA area). That's why I read it that way...


To be more clear, my receipt says 1199$ for the set minus 100$ open box discount plus free 600$ best buy gift card.
Sorry for confusion lol

Glad I could help out - did they have the xs955 still left? The scratches on the 960 you got were not noticeable more than a few feet away and probably only with a white background. I thought hard about that but the 970 was $450 after gift card and it had a recent mfg. (9/06) date so I knew it was almost new. You must be a better haggler because I couldn't get any more off the scratched units. I also had some trouble testing the tuner on the 960 because they had the junker setup and connections on them. FYI, that set was at the store for at least 4 months and every time I went by they wouldn't cut the price.

Best Buy seems to be offering gift cards back on the models they are trying to clear out - it keeps the discount money retained at the store. I think for the tubes they are just desperate to clear out shelf and warehouse space.

Glad I could help out - did they have the xs955 still left?


I am not sure if they had xs955. I was only looking for 34 inch wide screen, so if 955 was different size I most likely missed it. Once I saw the set, I pretty much checked the condition and went straight to the salesman to buy it lol.

The scratches on the 960 you got were not noticeable more than a few feet away and probably only with a white background.

The scratches are somewhat visible durring the daytime when against white background. I can still see the image underneath them but it looks slightly off in color. At night, I really have to look hard to make them out even against white. I think they are more noticeable at day time due to to sunlight reflecting off screen. Considering they are quite small, they don't bother me much even when I see them.

I asked how long the set have been on display and manager told me no more than 6 months. On bright side, if set has been running fine on display for a while, it will probably run fine in the future(knocks on the wood lol). I didn't check the tuner yet since I have cable.

I thought hard about that but the 970 was $450 after gift card and it had a recent mfg. (9/06) date so I knew it was almost new.

450$ for 970 is great deal considering they have been going for 999$ untill recently:)

Best Buy seems to be offering gift cards back on the models they are trying to clear out - it keeps the discount money retained at the store. I think for the tubes they are just desperate to clear out shelf and warehouse space.

I agree, I got the impression that they try to clear out older tube by any means nessesary.

I think I would have waited to find one through different channels than buying any type of TV with scratches on the screen!! CraigsList will always have these TVs at a lot better price and in better shape. Maybe scratches on the plastic but certainly NOT on the screen itself. Just have to be patient..........people are getting rid of their CRTs all the time now at very reasonable prices.

think I would have waited to find one through different channels than buying any type of TV with scratches on the screen!! CraigsList will always have these TVs at a lot better price and in better shape. Maybe scratches on the plastic but certainly NOT on the screen itself. Just have to be patient..........people are getting rid of their CRTs all the time now at very reasonable prices.

hmmm... As I metioned there are only two scratches half inch long and they are thin. At the day time they are not noticeable 90% of time. At night, they are very hard to make out at all even on white, heck I can see the trinitron tube wires better than I see the scratches when I watch the set.

500$ is a great price for that set in my opinion. Also, 2 year Sony's warranty is important to me since this model seems often have problems.

FWIW, it got my 960 from Fry's Electronics (Fremont, CA) and it only costed me $330 plus $100 for their 3 year warranty. This was back in October '06.

Open box, so far the only issue that I'm having is HDMI handshaking.

On the left side of my screen I can see a red outline on everything displayed. Is this a convergence problem? Can I get this fixed under warranty? Thanks, CK

On the left side of my screen I can see a red outline on everything displayed. Is this a convergence problem? Can I get this fixed under warranty? Thanks, CK

You should be able to, yes.

I have that exact same issue, only on the left side.

$440 for a 960! Nobody can beat that! :eek:

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8610/wizcs5.jpg

Are you going to try and get it fixed? I feel bad calling the same shop that just replaced the whole tube, but this is really getting on my nerves. Anyone know if they can fix this in-home? I don't want to be without a tv for weeks again. Thanks, CK

I just got my 960 in Oct. I love my tv but of course it's not perfect. There are 3 issues that need attention;

Overscan: This is the most noticable and therefore the one I want fixed the most. I think it's probably the thing that's the most out of spec also. When playing a Blu-ray disc with the PS3 the display info on the right (video codec mbps up top & time at the bottom) gets clipped. That's how bad it is. :eek:

Geometry: This is the crooked lines right? Doesn't bother me too much but would be great if it could be better.

Convergence: Only noticed this recently when fairly close looking at the icons on the PS3 xmb. Although it's not noticable I imagine it's degrading the picture to some degree.

I'd hate to go without my 960. Hopefully they can work on these things in my home.

Anyone have any experience/suggestions with warranty work in the OKC area?

I calibrated my set with DVE about a week ago. I always have trouble adjusting Picture and Sharpness settings, so I am hoping that someone will give me feedback regardless these two.

Here are my current settings after the calibration.

Mode: Pro
Picture: 24
Brightness: 30
Color: 34
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 20
Color Temperature: Warm
Clear Edge: Off
Color Axis: Monitor

I must admit I love this TV:)

As best I can recall...

Mode: Pro - I did pro for a while, switched back to movie after seeing the difference between the 2 on the Open Season menu
Picture: 24 - I think I'm at 34 for BD & DVD, 40 for cable
Brightness: 30 - 31
Color: 34 -31
Hue: 0 - 0
Sharpness: 20 - was around 20 I think using Avia but after reading this thread I'm at 0
Color Temperature: Warm - neutral I think
Clear Edge: Off - off
Color Axis: Monitor - ? de-emphasize red ?

As best I can recall...

Mode: Pro - I did pro for a while, switched back to movie after seeing the difference between the 2 on the Open Season menu
Picture: 24 - I think I'm at 34 for BD & DVD, 40 for cable
Brightness: 30 - 31
Color: 34 -31
Hue: 0 - 0
Sharpness: 20 - was around 20 I think using Avia but after reading this thread I'm at 0
Color Temperature: Warm - neutral I think
Clear Edge: Off - off
Color Axis: Monitor - ? de-emphasize red ?

Thanks for response

Your settings are quite different from mine.

Picture

I didn't want to go high on Picture because I read cnet review for xbr910 (the predecessor of xbr960). In review, they recommended to keep Picture at 30% for HD and 40% for DVDs. I kind of eye balled Picture since I can't see any blooming on DVE's gray scale pattern.

Sharpness

I tried it at zero with DVE overscan pattern. The text appeared slightly more blurry on my set with it set to zero though so I went 20. I will try it at zero again and give it more time.

I calibrated my set with DVE about a week ago. I always have trouble adjusting Picture and Sharpness settings, so I am hoping that someone will give me feedback regardless these two.

Here are my current settings after the calibration.

Mode: Pro
Picture: 24
Brightness: 30
Color: 34
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 20
Color Temperature: Warm
Clear Edge: Off
Color Axis: Monitor

I must admit I love this TV:)

Hi,

My settings are slightly different for HD and DVD inputs. They are:

MODE: PRO (both)
PICTURE: 37 (both)
BRIGHTNESS: DVD - 31, HD -25
COLOR: DVD - 39, HD -33
HUE: 0 (both)
SHARPNESS: DVD - 17, HD - 20
COLOR TEMPERATURE: Neutral (both)
CLEAR EDGE: DVD - High, HD - Low
DRC MODE: DVD - Cinamotion, HD - Interlaced (for SD only)
PALETTE: DVD - R 76, C71; HD - R66, C66 (for SD only)
COLOR AXIS: Default (both)
MEMORY MODE: On (both)

Test patterns for high definition are broadcast each Sunday morning at 7:00 AM over INHD so you might want to use that as the basis for your HD setting, while using the DVE for your DVD input (ample time is provided by INHD to make each adjustment).

Enjoy the 960 - it is the best!!!!

I've had the oportunity to calibrate several of these sets, and values are not transferrable from set to set. In every case, significantly different values were needed to achieve the same levels.

I've had the oportunity to calibrate several of these sets, and values are not transferrable from set to set. In every case, significantly different values were needed to achieve the same levels.

Great point - so that's why the differences posted in this forum aren't based on just personal preferences. Thanks.

I'm thinking about buying this for my father as a retirement gift. I knew about the last Circuit City sale but was a day late ringing in on it! My head still hurts from this!!!!

Anyone know how Circuit City handles these sales?........ Like if there's a certain time between each one or to know when one's coming?

I want to catch this deal but am not paying over 1k shipped for it.

PS: I only order from places where I can "easily" return something. No online crap reseller from NY, where it takes months to return an item and wastes your time. I'd rather pay a little more for an easy local return ;)

Thanks for info guys.

Indeed, everyone settings seem to be quite different from one another. I was hoping that I would be able to get some rough estimates regardless correct settings.

I will check out INHD patterns. I am not an early riser especially on Sundays, but with help of some coffee I think I will pull through.:)

Let me know if you'd would like the service manual. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

I used it to set my service menu settings.

Just send me a private message.

(I'm in Pennsylvania)

Let me know if you'd would like the service manual. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

I used it to set my service menu settings.

Just send me a private message.


Thank you for an offer:), but I think, I will wait a little before I venture into service menu.

I am still missing an original remote. Best Buy gave me Sony's XBR remote, but it is not an original one and it is missing some buttons like picture in picture and index search. I am going to buy one from Sony soon though.

Does anyone know good and inexpensive ambient/back light that is relatively easy to find?

I live in Carmel, Indiana. Does anyone know If it is still possible to purchase a brand new KD-34XBR960N (or the older 960) still sealed in the box, and If so possibly order it online &/or be able to have it delivered to my home? Any and all help you could provide would be greatly appreciated, beacuse if it is impossible to still acquire them at this point in time I will probably just have to go with the KD-34XBR970. :(

check with the Sony outlets... you might also consider the KD-34XS955.... I saw one is a Sears appliance outlet not long ago.

I'd like to try the memory stick feature on my XBR960. Sony's documentation shows a distinction between the supported capacity of the MS PRO and MS PRO DUO.
"Memory Stick PRO media capability in this product has been tested to support up to 1GB media capacity (Memory Stick PRO Duo™ to 512Mb media capacity)..."

Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.

Thanks

I'd like to try the memory stick feature on my XBR960. Sony's documentation shows a distinction between the supported capacity of the MS PRO and MS PRO DUO.
"Memory Stick PRO media capability in this product has been tested to support up to 1GB media capacity (Memory Stick PRO Duo™ to 512Mb media capacity)..."

Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.

Thanks

Yes, it will work just fine. I use one.

Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.


IIRC, I think the only thing you have to worry about is if the device you are using the memory on is Memory Stick or Memory Stick Pro. MS Pro will not work in the older Memory Stick (non-pro) devices. However, I think any newer MS Pro device (like the 960) can read any variation of memory stick. You just need an adapter for the newer Pro Duo memory because of its smaller size.

Hi all,

Had a little scare yesterday when discoloration appeared on both sides of the screen as I changed video outputs from HD to DVD.

After I turned the 960 off the magnetism still appeared, so I tried it two or three more times with no avail. Of course, I was afraid the automatic degasser was suddenly not working. I then unplugged for the set for about two minutes and when I turned the set back on to my relief, the discoloration was gone.

The few times this happened in the past all that was necessary was for me to turn the set off and on again. I did not need to unplug the 960. Has anybody else needed to do this as well?

Also, it might be my imagination, but I thought the picture looked more crisper on HD than it did right before the discoloration appeared. Wishful thinking, huh?

Thanks as always,
Joe

You just need an adapter for the newer Pro Duo memory because of its smaller size.

I've only used it once but I'm pretty sure you don't need the adapter.

Anyone have any secrets for speeding up the Digital Channel search? I know it says 50+ minutes to complete but mine often takes well over an hour - closer to 90 minutes.

The part that kills me is that I can't tune to a different input (the STB) to watch something while I wait for the Sony to do its thing.

I'd love to be able to add channels manually but for some reason that doesn't seem to work consistently.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. 2+ years of ownership and absolutely NO regrets. Best TV I've ever bought.

I've only used it once but I'm pretty sure you don't need the adapter.

You do need the adapter for Duo sticks.

960/ms compatibility (http://esupport.sony.com/perl/compatibility.pl?template=&mdl=KD34XBR960&comp_project_id=1)

Well I guess Sony and myself are both wrong.

Interesting...

Honestly, I wouldn't think of sticking the DUO in my TV without the adapter. It just doesn't seem like it would come out easily.

I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.

But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.

Has anyone had the same experience?

DrOrb

No, but I hardly ever wipe off my screen, and am very careful when I do. Have you been cleaning it fairly often or otherwise "stressing" the coating? Have any kids or pets that might be messing with it when you're not there?

Hi all,

Had a little scare yesterday when discoloration appeared on both sides of the screen as I changed video outputs from HD to DVD.

After I turned the 960 off the magnetism still appeared, so I tried it two or three more times with no avail. Of course, I was afraid the automatic degasser was suddenly not working. I then unplugged for the set for about two minutes and when I turned the set back on to my relief, the discoloration was gone.

The few times this happened in the past all that was necessary was for me to turn the set off and on again. I did not need to unplug the 960. Has anybody else needed to do this as well?

Also, it might be my imagination, but I thought the picture looked more crisper on HD than it did right before the discoloration appeared. Wishful thinking, huh?

Thanks as always,
Joe

Hi, Joe.

I think this was mentioned a hundred pages before...if you unplug your set for a while it apparently "resets" the degausser. I had a similar problem and this cured it. In fact, about twice in the last two years, the set wouldn't turn on. I unplugged it for a few seconds, plugged it in again, and everything was fine again. Guess that's what happens when the TV is part computer!

re: wishful thinking: I think it was, but hey, if it looks better to you, that's what counts!



Mark

Hi, Joe.

I think this was mentioned a hundred pages before...if you unplug your set for a while it apparently "resets" the degausser. I had a similar problem and this cured it. In fact, about twice in the last two years, the set wouldn't turn on. I unplugged it for a few seconds, plugged it in again, and everything was fine again. Guess that's what happens when the TV is part computer!

re: wishful thinking: I think it was, but hey, if it looks better to you, that's what counts!



Mark

Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.

Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.

I have my xbr 960 plugged into surge protector as well so far zero problems. Would not you risk burning up your tv during the thunder storm? I live in TX, and over here, we have frequent storms. Quite a few times, my electricity was shout down due to lighting strikes, so I am a bit vary of plugging it directly into wall unless using surge protector will permanently damage the TV somehow.

Hi all. I bought a XBR960 about a year ago after doing a whole bunch of research (mostly through this board). It has been a great TV, hooked up to up-converting DVD player and HD gaming, but it is time for me to upgrade. I'm looking to go LCD now (so I can connect to my PC). Anyways, I thought I would just throw this out. I'm not sure how big the demand is for these things any more, but mine is up for sale to whoever wants to pick it up. Located in Abilene Texas. Probably $500 and its yours. Email me at swankerme@msn.com

Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.

Nope. A few weeks after we got the 960 the picture wouldn't come on and while speaking to a customer representative I mentioned use of the surge protection and was told to instead have it plugged into the wall, for the exact reason you and I have stated in numerous posts in the past.

I was only worried because in the past turning the set off eliminated the magnetic distortion in the past without need of unplugging the set.

Glad you saw that your 960 was plugged into a surge protector and then changed it to get rid of the blotch.

I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.

But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.

Has anyone had the same experience?

DrOrb

Not here. To avoid damage such as you described, we gently dust the screen, then use a soft, wet paper towel to clean it. This is followed by use of a soft, dry paper towell to eliminate water streaks.

Just got this set, it's my HDTV

Lovely!

Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?

Just got this set, it's my HDTV

Lovely!

Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?

Just curious, how and where did you get it? I been trying to find one but I'm almost ready to give up and buy an xbr970.

Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???

Any info would be greatly appreciated. :)

This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.

Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???

Any info would be greatly appreciated. :)

This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.

My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.

Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???

Any info would be greatly appreciated. :)

This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.

Wow...$550 for a brand new 970 is pretty damned good!

My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.

Thank you for your reply. I wish shopping for tvs would be much easier and less of a headache. Anyway, I'm a lil afraid of using craigslist because of the horror stories I have read. For example I just found this on craigslist...

Sony High Definition Tuner built in.
Model number KD-34XBR960
Given as a Christmas present (Dec. 2005) and never used.
Mint brand new condition. Purchased at Circuit City for $1800.00

Note: Flat screen but regualar size television not flat panel.
Also Television is very heavy, approx: 196Lbs.
Original box discarded. Has remote and manual.
Cash only.
We will meet you in an Albertson parking lot in South Everett area.
Bring Pickup or van and two to four beefy guys. ...it is heavy!

Never used? Mint condition? He's asking for $750. That sounds like a scam to me. UGH!

Thank you for your reply. I wish shopping for tvs would be much easier and less of a headache. Anyway, I'm a lil afraid of using craigslist because of the horror stories I have read. For example I just found this on craigslist...

Sony High Definition Tuner built in.
Model number KD-34XBR960
Given as a Christmas present (Dec. 2005) and never used.
Mint brand new condition. Purchased at Circuit City for $1800.00

Note: Flat screen but regualar size television not flat panel.
Also Television is very heavy, approx: 196Lbs.
Original box discarded. Has remote and manual.
Cash only.
We will meet you in an Albertson parking lot in South Everett area.
Bring Pickup or van and two to four beefy guys. ...it is heavy!

Never used? Mint condition? He's asking for $750. That sounds like a scam to me. UGH!

I bet it won't even power on - hence the pickup at a supermarket parking lot. Beware of that one.

Just got this set, it's my HDTV

Lovely!

Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?

Congratulations on being able to get a new 960 - as you can see, there are others in this forum who are quite jealous of you.

Catch the INHD video tests on Sunday mornings at 7:00 AM. Besides test patterns, they give a test for adjusting overscan. Use the vertical correction to make your adjustment.

Also know that station logos and tickers will be cut off a bit on standard definition when using the wide-stretch mode for viewing 4x3.

Good luck and enjoy!!!

My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.

For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.

Hey 960 owners,

I've recently had my TV calibrated by an ISF professional (Chad B. for those who know him). I couldn't be happier, even non HD signals look amazing. Currently I hook all the video sources up directly to the TV, using a BA DT6000 as a HTIAB for audio. However, I'm in the market for a receiver to channel all the video sources I'm racking up and I'm curious if I should be getting it re-calibrated now that the DVD player, 360, direct TV are all going through the receiver (probably a denon 3000+). As long as I use one of the previously calibrated inputs I'm thinking everything will be pretty close, but I wanted to get some opinions on that.

Thanks in advance!

For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.

Yes there is some risk involved and you as a buyer have to be careful but in my opinion it is worth it. You have to go to the sellers house and be able to test the TV and then use common sense by just looking at it. The money you have saved is well worth if even if you do have to get repairs over the years or even throw it away. As I said I bought 2 of these and have had no problems over the past year.
You can just about buy one of these for what you would pay for an extended warranty at CC. Do the math.............

So I emailed the guy that is offering his "mint condition never been used xbr960" and here is his reply...



My sister gave the TV to me in December of 05 for a Christmas present. Bought at Circuit City in Bellevue.

I'm 63 and retired and live in a little trailer of which the door is to small for the TV to fit through.

I have the TV stored at a friend of mines house and he has a TV so it hasn't been used.

We watch a Superbowl game on it and that's it.

I've decided to stay in my trailer for a while longer and it's to big besides not fitting through the door.

Because it was a present from sis I was reluctant to sell it at first but it makes no sense to have it sitting there not being used.

Be aware that is has the hump on the back like an old style TV and is HEAVY (196 LBS) but it is the new format and has all the bells and whistles HD tuner built in and all the goodies. Sony still make the set but the new model is a number higher than this one.
See Sony website for details.

I'm firm on the $750 price ($1,800+) new in 05. Cash only and you get a brand new never used TV.

Just email if you have any more questions.

What do you guys think??? Personally I think this is to good to be true and like some of you have said it might not even turn on. It also looks like I wont be able to test it out. I'll probably skip this offer. Oh man but what if it is true? What do you guys think?

For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.

I am with Joseph here. Buying this set off Craiglist or Ebay is too risky in my opinion.

You will loose 2 year XBR warranty, which considering some stories posted here about this set, can come back to bite you later on. Since this set is discontinied, replacement parts like tube might be hard to come by unless the company that is doing the fixing is Sony. Loosing 30 day return policy also hurts. Prices for this TV is all over the place. You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.

You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.That's the problem... this particular TV simply cannot be found retail anymore.

Essentially "new in a box", but admittedly used to watch a Super Bowl or two? I'm sure it's had a bit more use, but still...

Personally, from his letter I'd buy it in a heartbeat if I were looking for one... but I'm not (since I already own one!). You don't seriously think it won't turn on, do you? Would he be a complete fraud? I know.. .cash-only payment has a bad sound to it, but to be honest $750 would be worth the risk to me, to pick up an essentially brand new XBR960 when they're simply virtually extinct in the retail world.

My XBR960, purchased in March 2005 (for $1800 as well), has never had a problem or a service call (other than the initial two visits during the initial 30-day out-of-the-box period by a Sony technician and then a local service technician, to deal with convergence and geometry problems... fixed to near-perfection by magnets placed on the back of the picture tube). It's now over two years since it arrived.

Even if you have to pay a few hundred dollars should it need factory/service tweaking to make it absolutely perfect (assuming it might not be), you're still way ahead of the game. And you own the absolute best CRT-HD set ever.

If you're seriously looking for an XBR960, and you have a strong table for it and a way to pick it up at the guy's house and bring it to your home, I say go for it. The price is too good to pass up.

But then, that's just me talking. I won't buy stuff that is listed as "a small scratch", or "very clean". But "mint"? I know, it's not new-in-a-box from Sony or a retailer, and there's no factory warranty. So what?

Just got this set, it's my HDTV

Lovely!

Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?

See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.

That's the problem... this particular TV simply cannot be found retail anymore.


I found two sets in Houston where I live and another two in Texas about a month ago. All sets are from Best Buy store chain and local pick up or local delivery only. Granted, they were not new in box and I bought one of the Houston sets.

I am with Joseph here. Buying this set off Craiglist or Ebay is too risky in my opinion.

You will loose 2 year XBR warranty, which considering some stories posted here about this set, can come back to bite you later on. Since this set is discontinied, replacement parts like tube might be hard to come by unless the company that is doing the fixing is Sony. Loosing 30 day return policy also hurts. Prices for this TV is all over the place. You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.


This is not necessarily true. I did retain the Sony warranty on the XBR960N that I bought off of CraigsList. Just called them with my name and the receipt. Even got warranty service for a HDMI issue that I had with the TV and they resolved it.
Of course this is not alway the case if the TV is too old. Even if you dont get a warranty as DSperber mentions you are still ahead of the game getting a TV at such a low price even if you do have to do repairs.

I dont know what kind of condition the XBR960 is in that is being sold for $750 but the price sounds too high, especially if it was built in 2005. I would offer him around $500 for the set. CRTs are not that easy to sell these days and he may have a hard time selling it.

What do you guys think??? Personally I think this is to good to be true and like some of you have said it might not even turn on. It also looks like I wont be able to test it out. I'll probably skip this offer. Oh man but what if it is true? What do you guys think?

You can settle the DOA question pretty easily: rent a generator for a couple of hours, bring a set of rabbit ears, and try the set out before you buy.

My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.

I agree. I got mine off of eBay through Circuit City and I couldn't be happier either. It was a steal at $375!

Congratulations on being able to get a new 960 - as you can see, there are others in this forum who are quite jealous of you.



Yeah I see! To the other fella: This was actually a 'hand me down' from my brother. He's upgraded to something else, I don't know what exactly. It's bigger and it's Sony that's all I know. Therefore how/where/how much I got it for won't really help anyone else who's still on the hunt. Sorry!


I'm surprised to see this 'following' on this set too. It's amazing that people are seeking out this older set (a rarity at least in technology terms no!?) Looks like my brother knew what he was doing.


Thanks for the tips!


See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.

Will do, thanks!

Thanks for the info everybody...here is my continuing saga...

I emailed the guy again if I can test the tv and here is his reply...

I'll have to let you know as the friends that have the TV were a little nervous about a lot of strangers coming to the house. Let me see what we can work out and I'll email you back.

Tuesdays or Wednesdays are best for pick up in day or early evening.

I'll let you know in a couple days. I'm busy with some personal things right now.

I understand you wanting to see that it works and the picture quality etc.

Best,

Don

I sure am going thru alot of trouble trying to get this tv set. My question is it really worth it??? I would need to rent a van, drive about 12 hours, maybe rent a generator to test it, all for the price of a $750 used set. And if I'm not mistaken, Sony didn't put the super fine pitch tube in the 970 because it has a high failure rate. So it looks like alot of trouble to get the 960 when I can just buy a 970 brand new for $550 and have it delivered for free. I sit 10 feet away from the set...would I even be able to see the extra detail of the 960??? UGH...why does tv shopping have to be so hard? :(

I sure am going thru alot of trouble trying to get this tv set. My question is it really worth it???Short answer: yes.

If you're looking for a set of this 34" size, because you don't have the room for something larger, or just don't want to go larger, or can't afford anything larger, or don't like LCD or plasma or DLP, or really want a CRT... then THIS IS THE BEST 34' CONSUMER CRT HDTV THAT'S EVER BEEN SOLD!

Based on serious reviews (e.g. The Perfect Vision) I bought a Sampo 34WHD5 back in 2001 (yeah, I know, you probably never heard of it) because it was raved about as the absolute most magnificent CRT HDTV... truly reference quality. And I agree, it was fantastic. Stunning. Truly Stunning.

And then in Feb.2005 it died. Picture tube simply gave out, and since the manufacturer had stopped making the set and there were no parts or qualified service, I had to give it up. Couldn't replace it, and couldn't repair it. So I searched for the "next reference quality top-of-the-mountain absolute best there is" CRT set of the same 34" size. And all of the newer reviews raved about the 34XBR960, just as they had four years earlier about the Sampo.

So I went for it. And I am glad I did, and lucky that I have had the last two years of stunning viewing experience instead of something inferior (e.g. I also looked at the RCA F3810). I cannot rave enough about this Sony set.

All I can tell you is that it is truly a genuinely remarkable viewing experience (assuming you're planning on sitting 5-7' from the screen and are not unhappy about that). It looks like absolute reality, not TV. Absolutely 3D-like and film-like, not like any TV you've ever seen before.

Trust me, if you're looking for a 34" set this is the one for you. Since it's a CRT it may (or may not, but likely will) require a bit of adjusting and tweaking (by a professional or by yourself) but once properly adjusted your jaw will drop when you watch Leno, or Saturday Night Live, or Rome, or Lost, or CSI, etc..


I would need to rent a van, drive about 12 hours, maybe rent a generator to test it, all for the price of a $750 used set."Very very low mileage". If you can't buy one new-in-a-box, very very low mileage is the next best.

I recently paid a very high price on eBay for a Sony TCD-D100 DAT Walkman (final top-of-the-line consumer version DAT-corder that replaced their top-of-the-line WM-D6C Walkman Pro analog cassette recorder), because it was supposedly nearly unused and still had the original carton and packaging and all of the original accessories, including user manual. I wanted it, I'd been waiting for one to become available that was in near-perfect condition, Sony doesn't make it any more, it's a seller's market at this point (10 years after the product was available retail), and "very low mileage" is the best you're going to get once you shop for used items.

Ideally, you'd be able to find a similar set available around the corner in your neighborhood, from a retailer open-box or used from someone. In your case, the set is unfortunately a bit far away, although it is being offered at a very attractive price.


And if I'm not mistaken, Sony didn't put the super fine pitch tube in the 970 because it has a high failure rate.Now I don't know for sure, but I don't think this was the reason they changed the tube.

I believe they were looking to get out of the CRT-HDTV business in the near future anyway, probably were looking to cut costs and reduce price of the lesser-quality product they were planning to use to close out the line, and maybe had a production issue with their supply chain for the SFP tube.

I don't think a "high failure rate" is the reason the XBR970 doesn't have an SFP tube. I may be wrong here (though I think not), but given a choice of both I don't think any AVS member on this thread would choose the 970 over the 960.


So it looks like alot of trouble to get the 960 when I can just buy a 970 brand new for $550 and have it delivered for free.If price is really the driving factor here, save the $200 and go with a brand new 970. But there's a reason why a brand new 970 will cost you only $500: it costs less to make the set since the features and parts inside are not the same as you'll find in a 960.

Believe me... this are not identical sets. The 960 is the better of the two, and the SFP tube is part of the reason why. Same as with CRT computer monitors, where a .24mm tube is much sharper and crisper than a .28mm tube, though both may be Sony Trinitrons.


I sit 10 feet away from the set...would I even be able to see the extra detail of the 960???Perhaps not.

Too bad you didn't live in NY...I'd sell you mine.
I really don't think this set is the next best thing since sliced bread.
I'm not that impressed with this set at all. The picture is good, but nothing spectacular.

Thanks for the reply DSperber :)

Well I figure I have about a month to keep on searching before they run out of brand new 970s around my area. I just came back from Sears near my area and I almost had an orgasm. I saw a out of the box sony 34 inch widescreen in the corner that was away from the new 970s. Well it was a 955 but it looked pretty beat up. Scratches everywhere, esp the tube. Asking price was for $1100.

The search continues....Damn I feel like I'm in Indiana Jones searching for the Holy Grail :p