I've calmed down with the number of times I dust the screen since my spot arrived. I do nothing but wipe with a soft cloth now. I'm too scared to use water now. I was trying to make myself believe this happened telling me it's time to upgrade to a plasma. :D

I "upgraded" to the Panasonic 50ph9uk and had it for 6 months. Just sold it and went back to the 960. Fortunately for me I have owned around 8 HDTVs in the past couple years, from SXRD to XBR LCD to Plasma and everything else inbetween. The 960 still produces the best picture overall.

If you do decide to go with a plasma at some point, the latest Pioneers have the best picture I've seen in a flat panel, BUT it's still not CRT ;)

Yea but i doubt they were making any HD cable boxes back then :P Thats like saying Westinghouse has been around since the early 1900's, They made rocket engines and furnaces back then, doesn't mean i'd buy a TV from them. So even if they were a successful company they still make crappy Boxes IMO. If you had a choice of what box/cable card you wanted would you take something made by "scientific Atlanta" over any other name brands?

"Back in the day" (early 1990's) SA made fantastic commercial-quality gear. Their 9708 "B-Mac" IRD (integrated receiver-decoder) was virtually trouble-free (and was also about $3,000 if I recall.) I realize this only means they have experience making these devices. It doesn't mean their new digital devices will be state-of-the-art. But I'd submit they certainly SHOULD stand a much better chance of making the transition than some other company that never made satellite receivers in the first place. Brand/name equity is extremely valuable, and is one of the measures I use before making a purchase.

Mark

flyingvee:

The FCC has dictated that any HDTV signal transmitted free over the air is to be made available on the local cable system unencrypted.

It is up to your cable system to comply.

I'm not sure this is the correct interpretation. I believe this is dependent on market size. And I think it only applies to the "primary" digital channel. (e.g., an ABC station in Chicago on 7.1 would be need to be carried, but that station's 7.2 and 7.3 wouldn't be mandated) Anyone know for sure?

Mark

I believe the government site covers this:

§ 76.630 Compatibility with consumer electronics equipment.
(a) Cable system operators shall not scramble or otherwise encrypt signals carried on the basic service tier. Requests for waivers of this prohibition must demonstrate either a substantial problem with theft of basic tier service or a strong need to scramble basic signals for other reasons. As part of this showing, cable operators are required to notify subscribers by mail of waiver requests. The notice to subscribers must be mailed no later than thirty calendar days from the date the request waiver was filed with the Commission, and cable operators must inform the Commission in writing, as soon as possible, of that notification date.

§ 76.901 Definitions.
(a) Basic service. The basic service tier shall, at a minimum, include all signals of domestic television broadcast stations provided to any subscriber (except a signal secondarily transmitted by satellite carrier beyond the local service area of such station, regardless of how such signal is ultimately received by the cable system) any public, educational, and governmental programming required by the franchise to be carried on the basic tier, and any additional video programming signals a service added to the basic tier by the cable operator.

These came from http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/

There may be a limit on small systems that I am unaware of.

This came from 76.620 that describes the obligations of cable companies:

(g) With respect to carriage of digital signals, operators are not required to carry ancillary or supplementary transmissions or non-program related video material.

I "upgraded" to the Panasonic 50ph9uk and had it for 6 months. Just sold it and went back to the 960. Fortunately for me I have owned around 8 HDTVs in the past couple years, from SXRD to XBR LCD to Plasma and everything else inbetween. The 960 still produces the best picture overall.

If you do decide to go with a plasma at some point, the latest Pioneers have the best picture I've seen in a flat panel, BUT it's still not CRT ;)

Couldn't agree more. Plasmas are still referred to being closest to a CRT but not it's equal. And of all the CRTs, the 960 is by far the best. More than two years and I still can't get over it's vivid crystal clear HD picture, natural color and awesome upconversion of standard definition DVDs.

It's a shame the majority of consumers were impressed so much with picture size and flatness that they failed to notice the lack of dimension and depth in Plasma and LCD along with a more limited combination of deep contrast and black level to bring out the best of the HD signal.

Big screens are more practical for large rooms, but for the average living room, 34 inches is more than adequate.
Not to knock Plasma, LCD or DLP but consumers who only need this type of picture size have one less format choice to consider than we had. If anything, I would miss the 3-D feel that only a CRT can offer.

I have had a KD-34xbr960 for 2 years now and love it.I want to upgrade to a HD DVD player.My current set up is a cable card with the optical audio out going to my Dolby Digital receiver to hear HD broadcasts in 5.1.

If I connect an HD DVD payer to the HDMI input will the digital audio be output through the optical out from the TV or do I need to connect audio seperate from the HD DVD to the receiver?
Thanks

I have had a KD-34xbr960 for 2 years now and love it.I want to upgrade to a HD DVD player.My current set up is a cable card with the optical audio out going to my Dolby Digital receiver to hear HD broadcasts in 5.1.

If I connect an HD DVD payer to the HDMI input will the digital audio be output through the optical out from the TV or do I need to connect audio seperate from the HD DVD to the receiver?
ThanksI believe the optical audio output of the HDTV is audio from the tuner only. You will need to have an independent digital audio connection from your HDDVD player and receiver.

That does make sense
Thanks raouliii

I believe the optical audio output of the HDTV is audio from the tuner only. You will need to have an independent digital audio connection from your HDDVD player and receiver.

That might not be the case, since the 5.1 audio is sent to the 960 via the HDMI output from the cable box. If HDMI is used instead for the HD-DVD player the sound would still be output from set. The 960's 5.1 output serves a pass-through only between the source and receiver.

"Back in the day" (early 1990's) SA made fantastic commercial-quality gear. Their 9708 "B-Mac" IRD (integrated receiver-decoder) was virtually trouble-free (and was also about $3,000 if I recall.) I realize this only means they have experience making these devices. It doesn't mean their new digital devices will be state-of-the-art. But I'd submit they certainly SHOULD stand a much better chance of making the transition than some other company that never made satellite receivers in the first place. Brand/name equity is extremely valuable, and is one of the measures I use before making a purchase.

Mark

I found differences in picture quality between SA boxes. When switching from SA's HD (4200) to the HD-DVR (8300) I thought I saw more vivid a picture. When incorrectly thinking the DVR caused copy protection problems dubbing onto DVD (eventually found it was the DVD recorder) I switched back to the 4200 and found picture quality to be less vibrant. My thoughts were confirmed when getting another SA HD-DVR and once more finding a more vibrant picture.

My brother has a standard definition SA DVR and noticed my DVDs dubbed from regular digital stations (in the same speed mode) appeared sharper and more detailed than those made from his (we both have Panasonic recorders).

I just went to the Sony store in NYC to see the new XBR Bravias. The new sets are beautiful, but without a doubt my 960 has a better picture.

When I didn't appear to be too satisfied with the PQ on the set, the salesman asked me what my present set was. He said, "Oh... well that would explain it. Those are still the best TV's we've ever sold. If Sony still made them, I could still sell them."

Now if I could only figure out how to hang it on a wall I'd be all set.

Hi Sony CRT´s fans
I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.

Hi Sony CRT´s fans
I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.

Thanks for the link, however, it's always stating that downloading time has expired. Anyway to get around this?:confused:

Finally ditched the Sony stand and went with something that fits in my style better. Don't know if any other 960 fans have been in the same boat but it was tough fining something I liked, and had the correct depth and weight bearing factors. In case anyone is interested in the same stand it is avaiable from Oak Express/Furniture Row (http://www.furniturerow.com/)

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6aQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3AxxqpDJ-Wt0frj%3DQofrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQQaxoQPx eoGxv8uOc5xQQQJJlaoePJGaqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPnJ%7CRup 6lQQ%7C/of=50,590,442

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6lQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3AxxWtUq4P0-0frj%3DQofrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQQJxJlaxoP 0xQQQJJlaoP0n0oqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPna%7CRup6aQQ%7C/of=50,332,442

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6aQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3AxxWtUq4P0-0frj%3DQofrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQQaxoQPxeo Gxv8uOc5xQQQJJlaoel0noqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPne%7CRup6G ea%7C/of=50,590,426

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6lQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3AxxqpDJ-Wt0frj%3DQofrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQQQJxJlax oenxQQQJJlaoen0PQqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPnJ%7CRup6aQQ%7C/of=50,332,442

Thanks for the link, however, it's always stating that downloading time has expired. Anyway to get around this?:confused:
Hi Joseph
Sometimes you have to try another day;in the "sony service codes" thread duwdu has also made it.Good luck.

That might not be the case, since the 5.1 audio is sent to the 960 via the HDMI output from the cable box. If HDMI is used instead for the HD-DVD player the sound would still be output from set. The 960's 5.1 output serves a pass-through only between the source and receiver.

I have recently connected my Sony Blu-Ray player via HDMI to my 960, and tried the optical output to my Anthem AVM30 preamp, unfortunatly, the 960 only sends 2.0 channel digital signals from the HDMI input. Broadcast 5.1, no problem, but I can only seem to get 2.0 digital from the HDMI input, meaning PLIIx at best from even a blu-ray disc.

If anyone knows how to 'fix' this, I would appreciate a post, but I'm pretty sure that's just the way it's gonna be.

Hi Sony CRT´s fans
I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.

Sweet, worked for me..thanks for the link!

I have recently connected my Sony Blu-Ray player via HDMI to my 960, and tried the optical output to my Anthem AVM30 preamp, unfortunatly, the 960 only sends 2.0 channel digital signals from the HDMI input. Broadcast 5.1, no problem, but I can only seem to get 2.0 digital from the HDMI input, meaning PLIIx at best from even a blu-ray disc.

If anyone knows how to 'fix' this, I would appreciate a post, but I'm pretty sure that's just the way it's gonna be.

Hmm cant you just run optical cable from the bluray player itself directly to your preamp? Thats how I have my PS3 setup, HDMI cable from PS3 to TV and Optical cable from PS3 to Receiver.

I'm looking at a used xbr960 with matching stand. Purchased 07/05. Seems to be in great shape.

How much would you be willing to pay for it?

If I needed it, and the set was in great condition, I'd go $500 or so.

OK, I have the 34XBR960 and for the most part it is a good TV. Unfortunately 1080i seems a bit off center to the right, though. So does 480i, but it's not as bad. I know how to get into and use the service menu, but I don't know how to adjust the horizontal position of only the 1080i mode without affecting 720p and 480p. If I center 1080i, then 720p and 480p are both off center to the left. A good example is my Xbox360 which I have set to 720p since that is centered. If I set my Xbox360 to 1080i, it's shifted to the right.

Is there any way to fix this or even perhaps zap the service menu back to default in case something somewhere got adjusted which shouldn't have? I originally adjusted it to decrease overscan a bit in 480p.

Hmm cant you just run optical cable from the bluray player itself directly to your preamp? Thats how I have my PS3 setup, HDMI cable from PS3 to TV and Optical cable from PS3 to Receiver.

Yes, and do, but, I was looking for a way to pass the multichannel audio through my TV using the optical output of the television to my preamp to save a couple of inputs. I have a DVD-A player and want to use the 6-Channel discreet inputs into my preamp for that, rather than for the uncompressed audio from the blu-ray player, and would live with 5.1 audio from the blu-ray until I update my preamp for full HDMI switching, allowing uncompressed audio from the blu-ray through the HDMI connector.

But alas, the TV only passes 2.0 digital signals from the HDMI input.

OK, I have the 34XBR960 and for the most part it is a good TV. Unfortunately 1080i seems a bit off center to the right, though. So does 480i, but it's not as bad. I know how to get into and use the service menu, but I don't know how to adjust the horizontal position of only the 1080i mode without affecting 720p and 480p. If I center 1080i, then 720p and 480p are both off center to the left. A good example is my Xbox360 which I have set to 720p since that is centered. If I set my Xbox360 to 1080i, it's shifted to the right.

Is there any way to fix this or even perhaps zap the service menu back to default in case something somewhere got adjusted which shouldn't have? I originally adjusted it to decrease overscan a bit in 480p.
The service manual shows two settings for the HPOS under 2170D-2: one for 1080 Full and 1080Vcomp and another value for "Others". Manual shows these at 29 and 31 respectively, default.

My TV has similar settings, but adjusting towards the "default" makes the image go more towards the right, not the center. What are the HCEN defaults (or H Center)? Is there anyway for me to download that manual and just set everything back to default?

Here is the difference I am observing:

http://pixelcraze.film-tech.net/crap/resolutions.jpg

Quite a big difference, and quite annoying.

Please see my post 5492. That is where I got my manual. There is a link later to a freemanuals site also.

HCNT shows 31 default.

From your pics, if the 480 and 720 are different, this would mean the HCNT is wrong (not by much).

The HPOS should affect only 1080i with the first number (29 default) and all the others with the second (31 default).

Are you sure your HSIZ is correct? Your pictures showing the edges that would be affected by this number also. HSIZ has only two settings: WideZoom@56 and Others@50. I had to adjust mine as I noted previously.

Please see my post 5492. That is where I got my manual. There is a link later to a freemanuals site also.

HCNT shows 31 default.

From your pics, if the 480 and 720 are different, this would mean the HCNT is wrong (not by much).

The HPOS should affect only 1080i with the first number (29 default) and all the others with the second (31 default).

Are you sure your HSIZ is correct? Your pictures showing the edges that would be affected by this number also. HSIZ has only two settings: WideZoom@56 and Others@50. I had to adjust mine as I noted previously.

Hi Ennui,

After you advised me how to adjust the horizontal size it was changed to 45 with the horizontal center from 38 to 37. Changes were made with the 960 set to VIDEO 7 with a 1080i picture being input from the HD DVR.

Am I correct the HSIZ adjustment decreases the horizontal width proportionatly throughout the entire screen? Since making the adjustment I've become aware that objects sometimes appear a very slightly bit thinner when moved toward the extreme left edge of the screen. I realize it might be more a case of nerves, looking for a problem after working the service menu and just the source itself. No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.

Thanks again,
Joe

When I adjusted HSIZ, I used the "Twin View" boxes. I could not see the outside line of the boxes on either side. Adjusting HSIZ brought both sides into view. As far as I could tell it is like a zoom, so, yes, it should "squeeze" everything.

...... Since making the adjustment I've become aware that objects sometimes appear a very slightly bit thinner when moved toward the extreme left edge of the screen. I realize it might be more a case of nerves, looking for a problem after working the service menu and just the source itself. No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.

Thanks again,
JoeIf you want to tackle that issue, you can try SLIN.
Quote from a Sony service manual "Adjust the horizontal linearity. SLIN, Adjust as necessary so that the boxes at the left and right sides of the screen are the same width as the boxes in the middle of the screen." The "boxes" refer to a crosshatch pattern, which btw, is the preferred pattern for adjusting geometry. SLIN is adjusted for WideZoom and all Others seperately.

Ennui, my HSIZ is currently 33. Adjusting it to 50 gives it an extreme amount of overscan, almost to the point in where the vertical black bars in 4:3 shows broadcast on a 1080i channel barely show up. I adjusted my HCNT from 24 to 31, but the 720p and 480p still defer from each other.

Could the LANDING setting have anything to do with it? Specifically the HSZO and SLNO settings? Those seem to adjust horizontal size. My HSZO is currently at 12.

What should the VSIZ and VPOS be?

No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.
You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.

You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.Magnets, applied by a technician, can address curvature issues that cannot be corrected with service menu tweaks.

In fact, I feel that there is no "proper" set of values that applies to all XBR960's. These are analog devices, not digital, and all kinds of analog factors make each and every set different right out of the factory.

For example my own service menu settings reflect the magnet work done by a technician right after I bought my set because I was unhappy with the curvature and got Sony to arrange a free service call. Hence my settings would not apply directly to your set, which has not had the identical magnet job.

Each set must simply be adjusted as best as you can through the service menu using a test pattern (cross-hatch is the most useful). If you get a magnet job, you'll then want to re-visit your service menu adjustments. Someone else's geometry values should only be used for comparison.

When I adjusted HSIZ, I used the "Twin View" boxes. I could not see the outside line of the boxes on either side. Adjusting HSIZ brought both sides into view. As far as I could tell it is like a zoom, so, yes, it should "squeeze" everything.

You're absolutely right.

Tonight I tested my 960 by shrinking and stretching the horizontal size while viewing the overscan pattern - the width of everything changed proportionatly. It must have been a case of my nerves using the service menu getting the better of me.

Should have mentioned the slight disproportion of some objects on the extreme left appears only on certain DVDs and not HD broadcasts. Nor is every object from top to bottom disproportionate when moving to the side. Guess it could be due to the way it was filmed, the formatting process in DVD, the signal being input via component cables or something natural with CRT.

Again, I was concerned I screwed up another setting in the service menu. I've since realized each adjustment has to be saved individually and if I accidently changed a setting for something other than horizontal size or center it would not have been stored. Just a matter of nerves causing me to look for problems after going into the service menu.

FYI - When in twin view, I found reducing the horizontal size so all four sides highlighted in green appear caused the pattern's large center circle to be squeezed too much - I do get the full picture in twin view but not the full square outside that is highlighting the picture.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this.

Magnets, applied by a technician, can address curvature issues that cannot be corrected with service menu tweaks.

I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to fix this issue. I'd rather just buy a newer and better TV. There is no way Sony would send out a technician for free now. I didn't even know such an option was available when I bought it. I had read that my problems were similar to what most owners of this thing were having.

Ennui, my HSIZ is currently 33. Adjusting it to 50 gives it an extreme amount of overscan, almost to the point in where the vertical black bars in 4:3 shows broadcast on a 1080i channel barely show up. I adjusted my HCNT from 24 to 31, but the 720p and 480p still defer from each other.

Could the LANDING setting have anything to do with it? Specifically the HSZO and SLNO settings? Those seem to adjust horizontal size. My HSZO is currently at 12.

What should the VSIZ and VPOS be?


You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.

VPOS default is 26.
VSIZ default is 39.

HSZO, SLIN, MPNO, and PINO in the LANDING section are complicated. The values for these depend on the LDVM value set (0,1,2 or 3).

The numbers are shown for "Wide Zoom" and "Others". [Who uses Wide Zoom?]

HSZO is 0 except for LDVM=2 or 3, and then it is 2 for "Others".
SLIN is 0 except for LDVM=2 or 3, and then it is 1 for "Others".
MPNO is 0 except for LDVM =1 it is 2, for LDVM=2 it is 5, and if LDVM=3 it is 9, all for "Others".
PINO is 0 except for LDVM =1 it is 2, for LDVM=2 it is 6, and if LDVM=3 it is 9, all for "Others".

I do not know what these values do.

....The numbers are shown for "Wide Zoom" and "Others". [Who uses Wide Zoom?].....I use WideZoom for all 480i inputs except for anamorphic DVD 480i.:D I find the non-linear stretching to be a decent compromise between zoom (loosing too much top and bottom) and normal (black pillars :()

I use WideZoom for all 480i inputs except for anamorphic DVD 480i.:D I find the non-linear stretching to be a decent compromise between zoom (loosing too much top and bottom) and normal (black pillars :()

Wide zoom all the way for me to :)

Wide zoom all the way for me to :)

Us, too.

Really enjoy watching those old pictures filmed before cinemascope, etc. in a wide screen format with little distortion in size for most of the action. Only problem is some cut off of the bottom of those news tickers and to see them fully means increases the stretching to the point of too much distortion - so we increase the stretch only when the news stations are on (otherwise Stan Laurel appears as heavy as Oliver Hardy).

Only problem is some cut off of the bottom of those news tickers and to see them fully means increases the stretching to the point of too much distortion - so we increase the stretch only when the news stations are on (otherwise Stan Laurel appears as heavy as Oliver Hardy).

I get most of my news from the internet and Comedy Central nowadays :D, so a bit of cut off on top and bottom does not bother me much. Distortion cased by Wide Zoom mode is annoying especially when I watch stuff on Cartoon Network, but it is still significantly better imo than seeing people faces cut of in half with Zoom or significantly reducing the screen size with normal mode.

I get most of my news from the internet and Comedy Central nowadays :D, so a bit of cut off on top and bottom does not bother me much. Distortion cased by Wide Zoom mode is annoying especially when I watch stuff on Cartoon Network, but it is still significantly better imo than seeing people faces cut of in half with Zoom or significantly reducing the screen size with normal mode.


I was able to reduce the amount of strech by going into the Service Menu and reducing the horizontal size when in wide zoom (just like the full mode, as posted previously). Brought the shrinkage to the point where the black bars alongside the picture could be seen (with slight bending) and then expanded the setting back a bit, checking to be sure that cable channels and DVD showed no trace of them.

Remarkable that when compared to the normal picture the stretching is hardly noticable.:)

Widezoom makes me ill. I definitely notice the odd distortion, especially when something moves or (god forbid) the camera pans. I don't mind black bars on the sides of my 4:3 material. Makes the true 16:9 stuff that much better. The TV auto-16:9s with any valid 16:9 source with the exception of some videogame systems which do not send out the proper 16:9 flag in the video signal even though they should. I have my default set to 4:3 so that this works as I want it to.

If you want to tackle that issue, you can try SLIN.
Quote from a Sony service manual "Adjust the horizontal linearity. SLIN, Adjust as necessary so that the boxes at the left and right sides of the screen are the same width as the boxes in the middle of the screen." The "boxes" refer to a crosshatch pattern, which btw, is the preferred pattern for adjusting geometry. SLIN is adjusted for WideZoom and all Others seperately.


Thanks Raoul,

I saw that the boxes appearing on the left and right sides of the "convergence" test from the old INHD test patterns were slightly slimmer than those in the middle. Went into the service menu and was able to adjust the SLIN. It eliminated the problem; just had to slightly re-adjust the HSIZ since the edges in a little. Seems that one affects the other.

- Joe

Hi all,

I was advised that progressive scan signals could not be upconverted so I always kept my DVD recorder's output set to 480i to take advantage of the 960's line-doubling capability. I was watching some old DVDs and noticed a slight grain compared to the clarity of those produced the last few years so out of curiousity I again tried to see if there would be any difference with a 480p output. To my surprise, a great deal of that grain disappeared providing a much smoother picture. It had nothing to do with picture adjustments as no changes (other than a slight reduction of color) were required using the THX Optimizer.

Is the 960's line-doubler still being utilized even though I'm now sending a progressive scan picture from my DVD recorder?

Is the 960's line-doubler still being utilized even though I'm now sending a progressive scan picture from my DVD recorder?

I am also sending 480p to my TV from DVDs(xbox360). I believe that Interlaced option is disabled when 480p is feed into the TV. Regarding the Cinemotion option, I think that it is also disabled, but I am not completely sure.

The 960 pretty much displays 480p as 480p, which is a GOOD thing. Don't be pulled in by talk of line doubling. Progressive is better than interlace any day. In my honest opinion, interlaced formats should be illegal. They do not provide anything positive to the world. You are actually viewing a progressive picture on the 960 when it is in 480p.

Anyway, what I'm pretty sure the 960 does is display the image at 540p, which is half of 1080i (just as 99.999% of analog SDTVs displayed 240p pictures). The image is then overscanned (not scaled or line-doubled) so that a little less than 480 lines are on the screen at any given time. It is cheap and economical to do it this way versus having a true multiscan monitor. True 480p on an EDTV that can do nothing else will still look a bit better, but this is a good compromise.

The 960 pretty much displays 480p as 480p, which is a GOOD thing. Don't be pulled in by talk of line doubling. Progressive is better than interlace any day. In my honest opinion, interlaced formats should be illegal. They do not provide anything positive to the world. You are actually viewing a progressive picture on the 960 when it is in 480p.

Anyway, what I'm pretty sure the 960 does is display the image at 540p, which is half of 1080i (just as 99.999% of analog SDTVs displayed 240p pictures). The image is then overscanned (not scaled or line-doubled) so that a little less than 480 lines are on the screen at any given time. It is cheap and economical to do it this way versus having a true multiscan monitor. True 480p on an EDTV that can do nothing else will still look a bit better, but this is a good compromise.

Hi Joe,

Shows how one can still learn things about the 960, even after more than two years. :) The advanced video features were no longer available after setting the DVD recorder's output to progressive, which should have told me something.

Is the process of displaying 480p images at 540p, then overscanning, etc, a common feature in HD sets or is it more unique to the 960? :confused: Line doubling might not be bad when it comes to standard definition broadcasts. Upconverted to 480p through the cable box, these pictures look worse than when left to 480i and alllowing the Sony's line doubler to kick in.

Is the process of displaying 480p images at 540p, then overscanning, etc, a common feature in HD sets or is it more unique to the 960? :confused: Line doubling might not be bad when it comes to standard definition broadcasts. Upconverted to 480p through the cable box, these pictures look worse than when left to 480i and alllowing the Sony's line doubler to kick in.

As a 36 kd 955xs user here I don't think its unique. My set essentially behaves similarly with the added complication of squeezing the raster vertically whenever a 1080i or 720p input is sensed.

I actually may agree with you that 480i, coupled with the set's DRC controls, is better in the general sense, than 480p, or 1080i for the great majority of SD viewing - at least on my set when being fed from a Dish HD box.

It is even very adequate for viewing an HD signal in my mind. In my particular case the HD pillar box is somewhat larger in 480i compared with 1080i shrink, and I believe most of the horizontal resolution is maintained in the 480i signal so all I am losing is vertical resolution. Although substantive overall its not a bad compromise to run my particular set with HD box set to 480i all the time. (I still have OTA antenna input for the ATSC signals so can easily get a real HD signal OTA without swithing the satellite box).

In my experience with my 970, the source quality has a greater effect than any manipulations made by the set's video processor. As smart as these Wegas are, they pale in comaprison to what a good upconverting DVD player can do.

The 960/970 (and nearly all HD CRTs I believe) output all signals at 1080i (or 540p depending on your perspective). If I understand correctly, you're saying your cable box upconverts to 480p? If SD programming looks worse in progressive, then I would blame a poor upconversion by the box more than anything the TV is or isn't doing.

Upconverting a DVD from 480i to 480p might work since it is at 24 frames per second and can easily be done without interlacing artifacts since the video fields don't change very often. But real 480p at 60fps looks much better than 480i upconverted to 480p. A good example is videogames (yes, we're all too ancient to enjoy videogames, but bear with me). The Nintendo Wii is a great example. It's maximum output is 480p. Most games on the system update to an entirely new image 60 times every second. If you run the Wii in 480i and have your 960 do the upconversion, you will effectively lose half of the vertical resolution since it tries to line double two fields into one. The two fields would be from different points in time, and thus you'd only be seeing a maximum of 153,600 independent pixels for every 1/60th of a second versus 307,200 pixels every 1/60th of a second if you had hooked it up in 480p to begin with. My point is that line-doubling/scaling/upconversion cannot add detail that wasn't there to begin with.

Upconverting a DVD from 480i to 480p might work since it is at 24 frames per second and can easily be done without interlacing artifacts since the video fields don't change very often. But real 480p at 60fps looks much better than 480i upconverted to 480p. A good example is videogames (yes, we're all too ancient to enjoy videogames, but bear with me). The Nintendo Wii is a great example. It's maximum output is 480p. Most games on the system update to an entirely new image 60 times every second. If you run the Wii in 480i and have your 960 do the upconversion, you will effectively lose half of the vertical resolution since it tries to line double two fields into one. The two fields would be from different points in time, and thus you'd only be seeing a maximum of 153,600 independent pixels for every 1/60th of a second versus 307,200 pixels every 1/60th of a second if you had hooked it up in 480p to begin with. My point is that line-doubling/scaling/upconversion cannot add detail that wasn't there to begin with.

Since half the vertical resolution is lost in the 960 upconversion process, it makes sense to keep the DVD output to 480p. My guess is the 960's upconversion works well with standard definition broadcasts and even VHS tapes (even more ancient than we are LOL). I do notice more detail and from these sources on the 960's 34 inch 16x9 screen compared to smaller 4x3 sets

So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.

That's odd. I'd be more worried if it started powering itself off without your approval.

Mine will no longer let me change the channel or input until a picture is on the screen. For example if I turn the TV on, I can no longer type "7.1" and expect it to go to 7.1. I need to wait until whatever it's already on shows up before it allows input. Not a big issue, just odd.

So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.

I've had this happen only a few times over the 2 years or so I've had the set, I haven't noticed any other issues. Although, I had a strange issue where the cable channels would look really terrible, but only occasionally. If you waited for sometimes up to 1/2 hour then 'ping' everything popped in a it should be. I called the cable company several time thinking it was poor signal from them, turns out it was a component in the television. I had to have a service tech come to my house and replace some board deep inside the set, all under warranty with the XBR of course.

Since half the vertical resolution is lost in the 960 upconversion process, it makes sense to keep the DVD output to 480p. My guess is the 960's upconversion works well with standard definition broadcasts and even VHS tapes (even more ancient than we are LOL). I do notice more detail and from these sources on the 960's 34 inch 16x9 screen compared to smaller 4x3 sets

I would say that it's not the upconversion itself that makes your SD pictures look better, but probably the Cinemotion and VRC circuitry that does. When it comes down to resolution and what looks better, your eye can only see so much detail given a certain distance. You have to sit like 10' max away to even begin to notice the advantage of 720p, and somewhere around 6' to really notice the difference between 480p and 720p. It's more about how our eyes work than resolution....

If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.

If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.

That's bigger than the size of the $8M jumbotron at the CAPS arena - which I imagine anyone sitting in the Arena would notice the 1080p. :rolleyes:

I would say that it's not the upconversion itself that makes your SD pictures look better, but probably the Cinemotion and VRC circuitry that does. When it comes down to resolution and what looks better, your eye can only see so much detail given a certain distance. You have to sit like 10' max away to even begin to notice the advantage of 720p, and somewhere around 6' to really notice the difference between 480p and 720p. It's more about how our eyes work than resolution....

If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.


Well, in any event, it's great to know how much the 960 does improve that SD picture.:o

Slightly off-topic, but I have the 34XBR910 and am looking for a way to adjust the convergence and overscan. I found a way to the service menu, but then could find no way to do anything! I normally hang at the HDTV side of AVS, but would appreciate help or links to help you may know about. Thanks in advance!

That's bigger than the size of the $8M jumbotron at the CAPS arena - which I imagine anyone sitting in the Arena would notice the 1080p. :rolleyes:

Touche.... 50" heh.

Slightly off-topic, but I have the 34XBR910 and am looking for a way to adjust the convergence and overscan. I found a way to the service menu, but then could find no way to do anything! I normally hang at the HDTV side of AVS, but would appreciate help or links to help you may know about. Thanks in advance!

Did you read the Sony Service Codes topic?

Hi, I'm looking to buy a KD-34XBR960. Anyone know of one for sale, preferably new if any are left in the U.S. at all (or maybe even Japan), but would consider a used one in excellent condition. Thanks!

I found mine on Ebay a month ago. $530. It was within 60 miles so I picked it up.

Shipping will be a problem.

I recently purchased the new TiVoHD and connected it to my 960 via HDMI. However, I'm not getting any digital audio output from the TV to my receiver when I select this input. I do get digital audio to my receiver when using the internal tuner. I spoke with Sony and they said that only the internal tuner will output digital audio. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, what was the point of putting the HDMI interface on this TV?

Thanks.

I recently purchased the new TiVoHD and connected it to my 960 via HDMI. However, I'm not getting any digital audio output from the TV to my receiver when I select this input. I do get digital audio to my receiver when using the internal tuner. I spoke with Sony and they said that only the internal tuner will output digital audio. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, what was the point of putting the HDMI interface on this TV?

Thanks.

If you're on an analog channel, normally there is no digital audio output from the Tivo, I think.

I have my Blu-Ray player hooked through the HDMI input on the TV, and then the TV optical output into my Preamp, and I do get digital audio, but only 2.0 even if the DVD is 5.1. As you mentioned, I do receive 5.1 through the tuner. I agree it's a bit strange.

Guess you'll have to run the Tivo into your receiver directly, and possibly both analog and digital seperately.

Oi, wish I could actually find one of these things for sale near me. =/

So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.

Major coincidence. I came here today because my 960 wouldn't fire up Sat. morning. First time in the ~1 year that I've owned it. The red light blinked 5-10 seconds longer than normal and then nothing. After unplugging/re-plugging it's worked perfectly through a couple of on/off cycles.

I can recall people in this thread talking about having to unplug the 960 to fix something but don't really recall the issue they were fixing.

Like you, I think I'm looking for reassurance from those who have experience with this. :)

Hi, I'm looking to buy a KD-34XBR960. Anyone know of one for sale, preferably new if any are left in the U.S. at all (or maybe even Japan), but would consider a used one in excellent condition. Thanks!

I do not know where you are located but here is one on Craig's list site:

http://tucson.craigslist.org/ele/436208720.html

Major coincidence. I came here today because my 960 wouldn't fire up Sat. morning. First time in the ~1 year that I've owned it. The red light blinked 5-10 seconds longer than normal and then nothing. After unplugging/re-plugging it's worked perfectly through a couple of on/off cycles.

I can recall people in this thread talking about having to unplug the 960 to fix something but don't really recall the issue they were fixing.

Like you, I think I'm looking for reassurance from those who have experience with this. :)


Relax, it's happened to me as well. Would need to unplug the set for a few minutes. Sony service told me this was normal, since the 960 has to be compared to a computer which sometimes can freeze and needs to be unplugged and rebooted.

Your video savings, etc. will not be lost.

If you're on an analog channel, normally there is no digital audio output from the Tivo, I think.

I have my Blu-Ray player hooked through the HDMI input on the TV, and then the TV optical output into my Preamp, and I do get digital audio, but only 2.0 even if the DVD is 5.1. As you mentioned, I do receive 5.1 through the tuner. I agree it's a bit strange.

Guess you'll have to run the Tivo into your receiver directly, and possibly both analog and digital seperately.

Thanks for the info! I also discovered that the TiVoHD will not send digital info to the TV via HDMI because the TV does not support HDCP... So I connected the TiVoHD to my receiver directly via optical and connected to the TV using component video. Now I need to buy an optical to coax converter for the TV's digital connection since both my optical inputs are full... I tried the optical splitter and the signal loss was unbelievable.

Thanks for the info! I also discovered that the TiVoHD will not send digital info to the TV via HDMI because the TV does not support HDCP... So I connected the TiVoHD to my receiver directly via optical and connected to the TV using component video. Now I need to buy an optical to coax converter for the TV's digital connection since both my optical inputs are full... I tried the optical splitter and the signal loss was unbelievable.

Wha?

The Sony fully supports HDCP.

Relax, it's happened to me as well. Would need to unplug the set for a few minutes. Sony service told me this was normal, since the 960 has to be compared to a computer which sometimes can freeze and needs to be unplugged and rebooted.

Your video savings, etc. will not be lost.

I've had it happen a few times in the last year. In the first two years we owned it I don't think it did it evev once. It's terribly annoying for us, because it sits in the middle of an entertainment center so it's difficult to get at the plug without sliding out the entire pedestal it sits on (which also includes a stereo receiver, a DVD player and a VHS player). My wood floors don't appreciate it too much!

Sometimes I find it easier to go to the circuit break panel and shut it off there. Just takes a few seconds. Was hoping there was a firmware update for this problem buy Sony says no.

Yea I have one of the last XBR960's made (a little over a year old) and so far Ive had to unplug it 3 seperate times.. but luckily the plug is fairly easy to reach.

Hi all,

To follow up on all my earlier posts regarding the advantage of feeding interlaced signals into the 960 (cable standard definition and DVD), I am embarrased to say I was completely wrong.

When first switching between interlaced and progressive I noticed a loss in detail which did not justify the tradeoff. I think this was due to my 960's factory-settings. The internal service menu had the vertical size stretched so wide it caused an overscan problem. With that (and the linear size) properly adjusted, the detail in picture quality improved immenesly (making a great picture even better).

So, the upconversion was negated due to a stretched out picture which made progressive scan signals appear blurrier than interlaced signals and could not be offset with increased sharpness and edge-enhancement which only caused graininess.

I can see why many had their 960's recallibrated. Hopefully, this was all that my particular unit required.

My 960 has recently developed a small shadow on the lower half of the left side of the screen. Picture a semi-oval, turn it vertical, and place it so that the long edge is against the left edge of the screen. It's approx 5-6 inches long and maybe 3-4 inches wide at it's peak.

It's mostly transparent. The screen still has chroma in that area, it's just ever so slightly darker. Most people can't see it but being a videotape editor my eye drifts to it a lot.

I don't have, nor have I ever had, anything magnetic anywhere near the sides of the screen. I've also noticed that the red gun has ever so slightly started to drift out of convergence in the upper left corner. The position or size of the shadow doesn't change regardless of whether I'm inputting 480i, 480p, or 1080i.

The 960 will be 3 yrs old in Jan. I've never had it calibrated. I had intended to go the ISF route right after I bought it but I was so happy with it out of the box (with a few minor adjustments) that I decided not to spend the money. I later bought the Avia disc and thought I would tweak it myself but have never taken the time to do it.

I'd like to try and make the shadow go away myself first. If that doesn't work it might be time to go the professional calibration route. But I'm concerned that the shadow is something that can't be fixed by calibration only. I have an extended warranty with in-home service so I can have a regular tech come out first. But even if he can fix the dead spot I'll still have to have the calibration done afterward and I'm looking at two service calls minimum and the possibility that the shadow isn't covered under the extended warranty.

Has anyone experienced a similar shadow problem and was able to make it go away either through self-service or with ISF calibration?

I have the 960 and the warranty expires soon in 08. The set is one of the rare ones in that color, convergence, and sizing adjustments are very good right from the factory. After 3 months the set developed the shutdown problem with the blinking led dignostic light. The local Sony rep came out replaced boards, but the problem has remained. The problem has been diagnosed as a bad CRT due to internal arcing which after about 25 minutes shuts the set down. I have installed a DC mini fan which blows at the crt neck and believe it or not the fan prevents the arcing. Now my dilemma: Reading this thread and others proves that the 960 is very difficult to adjust properly. Especially in convergence, and purity areas ( extra magnets required etc)
not to mention all the sizing issues everyone has. The local rep does not have a real good reputation for customer care so I dont think I want him to do the CRT replacement. But I found a old time Mom & pop service center 2 hours away here in OHIO which after talking with the owner could do a very good job. What would you do? continue to run the fan? Travel 2 hours, have the CRT replaced. I guess the fall back option is if everything is screwed up i can get ISSF cal. by Chad. but I would like your opinion or thoughts. Thanks!

I have the 960 and the warranty expires soon in 08. The set is one of the rare ones in that color, convergence, and sizing adjustments are very good right from the factory. After 3 months the set developed the shutdown problem with the blinking led dignostic light. The local Sony rep came out replaced boards, but the problem has remained. The problem has been diagnosed as a bad CRT due to internal arcing which after about 25 minutes shuts the set down. I have installed a DC mini fan which blows at the crt neck and believe it or not the fan prevents the arcing. Now my dilemma: Reading this thread and others proves that the 960 is very difficult to adjust properly. Especially in convergence, and purity areas ( extra magnets required etc)
not to mention all the sizing issues everyone has. The local rep does not have a real good reputation for customer care so I dont think I want him to do the CRT replacement. But I found a old time Mom & pop service center 2 hours away here in OHIO which after talking with the owner could do a very good job. What would you do? continue to run the fan? Travel 2 hours, have the CRT replaced. I guess the fall back option is if everything is screwed up i can get ISSF cal. by Chad. but I would like your opinion or thoughts. Thanks!

Just pay for Chad - he did an outstanding job on my set, especially with the magnets, which really improved geometry and convergence. I know it's a lot of money, but he's worth it. I think he lives in your state too.

Before you pay for Chad though, you should get your defective CRT replaced under warranty. If it needs replacement after Chad's calibration, the whole calibration is wiped out. Also, see if Chad will tweak the focusing adjustments in the service menu...he normally doesn't, but when you get a new CRT you really need to do this to get the best picture.

I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.

But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.

Has anyone had the same experience?

DrOrb
Sony replaced my picture tube without an inspection. Seems the flaw is well-known.

I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.

But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.

Has anyone had the same experience?

DrOrb


A slight change of subject, but what are the differences between the 960 and the 960N ?

Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.

Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.

What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.

Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.

For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.

Thanks for everything.

Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.

Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.

What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.

Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.

For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.

Thanks for everything.

I personally might look at the Pioneer Kuro plasma stuff....

What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.
.

the stand is SU-34XBR3 and fits the 910 also, i purchased my 34XBR910 about 9 months ago off eBay and then found the matching stand (matches the 960 perfectly and there's slight grey color differences with the 910 but barely noticeable), again, on eBay. I found it in LA, about 4-5hrs away from me (Vegas) and I won it for 99c. yes, 99 cents, new, in the box. well worth the drive, even if i did have to pay a $20 pick up fee!

keep your eyes open for one on eBay, there'll be one turn up sooner or later, or, if you can't wait, you can probably find one at a store, but they'll rape you for it.

good luck!

Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.

Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.

What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.

Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.

For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.

Thanks for everything.

I also just ordered a new flat screen, so will be getting rid of this Sony as soon as it comes. I honestly can say I was never totally thrilled with it.

Wha?

The Sony fully supports HDCP.

I have been unable to get a Tivo S3, Tivo HD, or SA 3250HD to work over HDMI connected to my KD-34XBR960. The error messages indicate an HDCP issue. I have tried two different HDMI cables and one DVI -> HDMI cable for use with the 3250.

The same devices work just fine with my Sony KDL-32XBR2 LCD using the same cables.

Still unclear on this....

With the PS3 how should I set the RGB & Superwhite settings?

Does this TV do 1080p? or just 1080i?

I have been unable to get a Tivo S3, Tivo HD, or SA 3250HD to work over HDMI connected to my KD-34XBR960. The error messages indicate an HDCP issue. I have tried two different HDMI cables and one DVI -> HDMI cable for use with the 3250.

The same devices work just fine with my Sony KDL-32XBR2 LCD using the same cables.

Well, it has to be some type of other HDMI issue. You can rule out HDCP as one of them though. I've had a PC (thru DVI->HDMI), PS3, HDMI DVD, Samsung BD, HD cable, etc all work perfectly thru HDMI, either directly or switched from my Onkyo HDMI receiver. These all worked on a 2004 model XBR960 (pre-firmware update).

I do use pretty expensive, well shielded cables...I've seen issues with those from time to time.

Still unclear on this....

With the PS3 how should I set the RGB & Superwhite settings?

Superwhite ON.

Video Output Format: Auto or Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr

Does this TV do 1080p? or just 1080i?

It's 1080i, 1080p would be really pretty worthless with a television this size, unless you sit like 3 feet from it...

It's 1080i, 1080p would be really pretty worthless with a television this size, unless you sit like 3 feet from it...

I wouldn't say that.

It gets rid of the flicker inherent in these type of displays.

Try to read very fine text on it, especially when trying to use it with a Home Theater Media Center PC. 720p is much better for this, but I prefer the higher resolution and larger screen real estate of 1080...

Do I have any chance at all of finding this in the retail market?

Would love to get one as my 'be all end all' gaming tv (NES, SNES, 3DO, GC, PS2, etc etc )

Are any of those gaming consoles high def?

I'd also like to throw a 360 on it at some point.

Sigh.. I guess I'll just have to live with the fact of having an 'older' SD CRT plopped next to a HD CRT :(

Hello,

I have a Sony KD34XBR960 that has really bad red noise on the screen when using the HDMI port. I plugged the same HDMI cable and DVD player into a different TV (42" LCD) and there was no problem.

The TV was connected to a Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player. When I first connected everything and experienced the red noise, I took the DVD player and the HDMI cable back to the store. Then I came home with the new ones and the same thing happened.

Any tips for this? If the thing didn't weigh 200 lbs I would have already carried it upstairs and used it as a bedroom TV.

BTW the TV was purchased from a Sony outlet store and is still covered under a 5 year extended service plan.

Thank you

I have found the component outs from my HD A1 to be more pleasing to these eyes. It retains the sharpness of HDMI but smoother at the same time, more film like if you will. Colors have more impact and black more depth. I use Bettercables.com Silver Serpents and I can't recommend them enough. They are somewhat expensive but not ridiculously so, what you get in return more than makes up for it.

I've bought a Toshiba HD-A3 player and hooked it up to the HDMI input on my 960. I've noticed that in this configuration, using the GetGray DVD, the set will not display deep black. I thought it was the player, until I hooked it up to my brother's Samsung LN-T4671F LCD and was able to see the differences. This is after setting enhanced/deep black on the player. When I hooked it via component cables, I was able to see the deep black difference again.

From a little research it seems to me the default for the HDMI video stream is YCbCr. YCbCr is based on DVI-video for video content and uses a video, Y, range of 16-235 and a color, Cb and Cr, range of 16-240. I would like to get down to 0-255, which I can via component.

You can read more here: http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=18754&sid=ed0a13a226e26693ddbc794f1d2ddbd7#18754

So has anyone had any luck improving the black level on the HDMI input?

I noticed some people on here looking for the 34xbr960. Well i've got one and it's time to sell it. Going to have to upgrade to a larger flat panel. Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?

Well if anyone is interested in taking the 960 off my hands (cheap but not free!), let me know. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA.

I noticed some people on here looking for the 34xbr960. Well i've got one and it's time to sell it. Going to have to upgrade to a larger flat panel. Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?

Well if anyone is interested in taking the 960 off my hands (cheap but not free!), let me know. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA.

Pick up only? How much? Good condition? Pic of it?

I'm probably gonna buy a Sony 34 in 970 tomorrow at BB used but PQ looks very close to how it would new and not banged up badly. For either $400 with 4 year warranty or $350 if I can bargain them again since there is no longer anymore and looks like it's been on display for a while I bet with no remote included. So respond quickly, may not buy it but others would like to know also.

Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?

Very doubtful especially with black level performance considered but I guess it depends how picky you are with picture quality.. personally the only TV Ive seen so far that competes with or exceeds the 960 is Samsungs latest 52" LED backlit 1080p LCD, I watched some 1080p trailers on it and was amazed at the clarity / color richness and especially the fact it actually had deep black levels (the tv was in a dark room to), Samsung claims 500,000:1 contrast ratio with this model, to bad they want $5,200 for it.

Pick up only? How much? Good condition? Pic of it?

I'm probably gonna buy a Sony 34 in 970 tomorrow at BB used but PQ looks very close to how it would new and not banged up badly. For either $400 with 4 year warranty or $350 if I can bargain them again since there is no longer anymore and looks like it's been on display for a while I bet with no remote included. So respond quickly, may not buy it but others would like to know also.

Well pickup only, unless you can arrange some shipping company to come to my house and ship it. I can't lift the thing myself :) $400 firm, does come with the remote, and yes here are some pictures:

Well pickup only, unless you can arrange some shipping company to come to my house and ship it. I can't lift the thing myself :) $400 firm, does come with the remote, and yes here are some pictures:

Thx for all the info. But ill probably stick with getting the one at BB since I can apply for a card and pay a little amount per month for a while.

I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"

It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)

I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.

I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"

It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)

I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.

Craigslist if it works in your area or type in local yard sales or physically go look. Just simply find a stand you like and if it doesn't mention how much weight it can hold just ask someone at the store or look it up online.

I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"

It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)

I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.

Most people selling the Sony stands are selling a TV with it. Here's the identical Q & A asked on the 970 board:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=644837&page=84

Hey, I was just wondering what the difference between KD-34XBR960N and KD-34XBR960 were?

I've been looking for a 960, but then the 960N is throwing me off.

The 960N is the same TV without the anti-glare coating on the screen.

OK.

Some idiot wrote that the normal XBR960 didn't have SFP, and that the 960N did.

I sure hope I can find a 960...

The 960N is the same TV without the anti-glare coating on the screen.


Really? I thought it was the other way around.

i'm also trying to sell mine. in NYC. what would be a fair price for this set in good condition less than 2 yrs old do you guys think?

I don't know, but I'm already interested.

I've been seeing them in Pittsburg (and in this thread) for around $400
I live in Philadelphia, and have to rent a truck, and rent some helpers to get it down here.

So $200 more that I could pay you automatically has to go to them : (

Let me know what you're thinking.

Hi all,

Someone in my area is offering a used KD-34XBR960N for sale. After looking at the on-paper specs, I'm interested. I have very basic (analog) cable, and don't plan on upgrading that at this point, but I also have a ReplayTV (lifetime subscription), a DVD/DivX player, and a VCR we almost never use, so the inputs look great. Might choose to look into an XBox360 or Nintendo Wii at some point down the road.

My key questions to everyone who has owned this unit (for at least a year):

1) How is the set geometry? I was interested in the Samsung SlimFit models until I saw the number of complaints of poor geometry and bowing. I've heard great things about the picture quality of this set

2) What's the reliability? This is the other reason why I've discarded looking at the Samsung; I'm just seeing too many complaints. I've seen the Sony service bulletin about arcing; is this still an issue, and if so, what does it generally cost (out of warranty) to fix? Have most of you had a trouble-free product?

3) Are there any unusual problems when hooking up components? I've known of some TVs that seemed to have problems with video game consoles or other gear.

4) Is there anything I should know about this TV's strengths/weaknesses that I won't know by reading the manual/specs? Other than it being insanely heavy, that is. :)

Thanks for any advice you guys can offer. This seems like a great TV on paper, but as an IT guy, I've seen tons of great things on paper that didn't pan out. I'm just on a tight budget, and for $300-400, this looks like a decent buy if the original owner took good care of it.

1.) My sets geometry was a bit off(960 model built 6/04, Mexico). Took Chad B. about 2-3 hours to fix.
2.) Reliability has been excellent for me. I have had zero problems with this set. Although, I do not watch regular TV on it, only HD-DVD, PS3 and Xbox 360. And this is only a few hours every or every other weekend. I keep it covered with a bed sheet when not in use.
3.) No problems with video game connections.
4.) Strengths: Excellent when fed hi-def signals as well as regular DVD. Inky blacks, 3-D look, rich colors. Weakness: Needs an ISF calibration plus geometry to truly shine! HDMI input looks weaker than component inputs. Some ghosting effects in dark scenes, but I've noticed other Sony CRTs doing this in the past few years. Standard def TV and older video game systems look better on analog TVs.

Hi all,

Someone in my area is offering a used KD-34XBR960N for sale. After looking at the on-paper specs, I'm interested. I have very basic (analog) cable, and don't plan on upgrading that at this point, but I also have a ReplayTV (lifetime subscription), a DVD/DivX player, and a VCR we almost never use, so the inputs look great. Might choose to look into an XBox360 or Nintendo Wii at some point down the road.

My key questions to everyone who has owned this unit (for at least a year):

1) How is the set geometry? I was interested in the Samsung SlimFit models until I saw the number of complaints of poor geometry and bowing. I've heard great things about the picture quality of this set

2) What's the reliability? This is the other reason why I've discarded looking at the Samsung; I'm just seeing too many complaints. I've seen the Sony service bulletin about arcing; is this still an issue, and if so, what does it generally cost (out of warranty) to fix? Have most of you had a trouble-free product?

3) Are there any unusual problems when hooking up components? I've known of some TVs that seemed to have problems with video game consoles or other gear.

4) Is there anything I should know about this TV's strengths/weaknesses that I won't know by reading the manual/specs? Other than it being insanely heavy, that is. :)

Thanks for any advice you guys can offer. This seems like a great TV on paper, but as an IT guy, I've seen tons of great things on paper that didn't pan out. I'm just on a tight budget, and for $300-400, this looks like a decent buy if the original owner took good care of it.

For $300-$400 it's a steal, if the picture is good. There were occasional HDMI failures with the 960. It' s great for multi-purpose viewing.

Just to clarify, I'm also looking to pay in the $400 ball park.

I would be looking in the $600 ball park, but I have to pay people to help me move it.

I suppose if it was it south Jersey, or Deleware, I wouldn't have to pay my friends...but NYC or Pittsburg, they want $$$.

I have a 960 and am located in the Philly suburbs. Let me know if you'd be interested in speaking about this...

I am interested.

I am very interested.

Hey guys, Service Menu question...

On my old Sony TV there's an option called CTRP that disables the graininess of the picture on 240p and 480i stuff (like video games)

I looked through the service manual of the XBR960, and I was wondering if the option called TRAP did the same thing???

Or if anyone even knows what I'm talking about...

The description of CTRP in my TV's service manual says "Y TRAP ON/OFF" so I'm hopeful that the TRAP option on the XBR960 is the same thing.

Hey guys, Service Menu question...

On my old Sony TV there's an option called CTRP that disables the graininess of the picture on 240p and 480i stuff (like video games)

I looked through the service manual of the XBR960, and I was wondering if the option called TRAP did the same thing???

Or if anyone even knows what I'm talking about...

The description of CTRP in my TV's service manual says "Y TRAP ON/OFF" so I'm hopeful that the TRAP option on the XBR960 is the same thing.The various Sony documents I viewed indicate that CTRP and TRAP are settings that turn on/off the Chroma Trap function. A 1 turns it on and the default of 0 has it off. The TRAP entry in the 2103-1 section should control the function in the Main Color Decoder module.

A definition found on the net (emphasis added):
Chroma Trap - In a NTSC or PAL video signal, the luma (black and white) and the chroma (color) information are combined together. If you want to decode the video signal, the luma and chroma must be separated. The chroma trap is one method for separating the chroma from the luma, leaving the luma relatively intact. How does it work? The NTSC or PAL signal is fed to a trap filter. For all practical purposes, a trap filter allows certain frequencies to pass through, but not others. The trap filter is designed with a response to remove the chroma so that the output of the filter only contains the luma. Since this trap stops chroma, it's called a chroma trap. The sad part about all of this is that not only does the filter remove chroma, it removes luma as well if it exists within the frequencies where the trap exists. The filter only knows ranges and, depending on the image, the luma information may overlap the chroma information. The filter can't tell the difference between the luma and chroma, so it traps both when they are in the same range. What's the big deal? Well, you lose luma and this means that the picture is degraded somewhat. Using a comb filter for a Y/C separator is better than a chroma trap or chroma bandpass.

OK, as long as I can control it with TRAP.

The reason I'm in this whole mess is cause I didn't know how to control it on my KV-32HS510, and thought it had to do with HDTV vs. SDTV, so I got the KV-32FV310, and still had the problem, then discovered the CTRP switch. (that's when I discovered the service menu's)

So now that I'm getting the XBR960, I'm glad I can still control it.

OK, as long as I can control it with TRAP.

The reason I'm in this whole mess is cause I didn't know how to control it on my KV-32HS510, and thought it had to do with HDTV vs. SDTV, so I got the KV-32FV310, and still had the problem, then discovered the CTRP switch. (that's when I discovered the service menu's)

So now that I'm getting the XBR960, I'm glad I can still control it.I'm not sure I understand what you mean by controlling "it". It appears that a chroma trap is a less than ideal method of seperating chroma and luma from a composite signal, which is why it defaults to off. It is not a disable/enable function of graininess in sd material and I wouldn't recommend leaping into using it for your ps3 just because it appeared to resolve a problem with your SD set. An XBR960 will likely present the ps3 with very good quality without having to make VERY extreme changes in the service menu. If the problem existed on a HS510 and a FV310, then maybe its a problem with the PS3.

It was on in my last two TV's, and I didn't figure out how to turn it off until the second TV, unfortunately.

Since the first TV was much much better, and the whole reason I got rid of the first one was to get rid of that problem.

I have no idea why it was on, especially if it's off by default.

I don't have PS3.
The problem is easily noticed in Sega Genesis games though.

It was on in my last two TV's, and I didn't figure out how to turn it off until the second TV, unfortunately.

Since the first TV was much much better, and the whole reason I got rid of the first one was to get rid of that problem.

I have no idea why it was on, especially if it's off by default.

I don't have PS3.
The problem is easily noticed in Sega Genesis games though.You indicated earlier that you had turned CTRP to ON in your earlier Sony to clear up a problem and planned to turn TRAP to ON in your next Sony set. I am recommending you NOT do this. As my quote earlier indicated, the comb filter function is a much better way to seperate luma and chroma and using the Chroma TRAP function will compromise quality. I believe your earlier actions merely covered up an underlying problem with your gaming system.

My fault for indicating that.

It had been on, and I turned it off.

I've been under the impression that it is on by default, as the last two TV's I had, CTRP was set to 1, and not 0

I am sorry for the confusion : (

Today I did some reading up on comb filters vs. chroma traps...
And I found a few things saying that comb filters can produce artifacts in computer generated images...I don't know if the Sega Genesis counts as a computer.

But when I changed the CTRP switch from 1 to 0 it fixed all the graininess of the picture, and now that I think about it, I could call the extra pixelization artifacts...

I also read something that said CTRP set to 0 means Chroma Trap enabled, and set to 1 means Comb Filter enabled...but who knows, since the Sony Service Manuals say 0 is Chroma Trap disabled (and that's the way it makes sense, in binary thinking)

I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"

It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)

I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.


Hey there rtype. I was in the same boat about 10 months ago and had my 960 moved from Jersey to Colorado! It was one of the reasons I had good insurance for the move, lol. 10 months of operation at the new locale and it's still performing like a champ (DirectTV HD lite and HD DVD).

My new place is on the 3rd floor (walkup) and after the movers got the set upstairs they patted me on the back and said "next time... plasma... please". :p

I'd be happy to talk to ya via PM on packing specifics that worked for me.

Oh also, I have a 960 stand... that now sits empty in a walk in closet. I liked it, but the lack of component storage was a hassel and the modern look didn't fit. I found that the wood stands from furniture row can handle the 960's punishing weight:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/504/medium/IMG_0837sm.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/504/medium/IMG_0845sm.JPG

I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers



I own a moving company and I charge a $50 fee for certian TV's. It has nothing to do with the weight, it's how careful you need to be. I pay my guys a little extra to move them....and this prevents accidents. Plus, I train my workers personally so each move is flawless.

Research the moving company, call the BBB, and use a smaller, LOCAL mom and pop company. They tend to care much more, plus, you don't want to give your $ to an out-of-state based company.

Request, if you don't have the original box, for them to WRAP the TV in plastic wrap. If they are not idiots, they will also be using thick pads in the truck. I have a 200lb HDTV as well, and I can lift it with one other person easily. If a mover CAN'T do it without bitching or stumbling, then they should not be movers. There is no harder, more physically brutal job than a full-time mover. But it will take skill on your part to hire the right one. And make sure to use a mover who does NOT hire "day" or "spot" labor. You don't want a crackhead or ex-convict touching your HDTV, or anything they can rush to a pawnshop after they rip you off.

I am having somewhat of a color offset problem. It seems worse with reds than any other color. Below are picts of what the problem looks like. Anyone know a solution?

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7122/img0050yz2.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1691/img0049gp8.jpg

Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.

Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-th-42pz700u/4505-6482_7-32466828.html

Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.

Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-th-42pz700u/4505-6482_7-32466828.htmlLook at the new Pioneer KURO line...... better blacks

Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.

Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-th-42pz700u/4505-6482_7-32466828.html

Panasonic makes great plasmas. You should be very happy with it. I almost bit on the 42" 720p Panasonic at Best Buy last week, but common sense prevailed. I don't need three HDTVs. :rolleyes:

For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?

KD XBR960 in excellent condition $550. Located in North Carolina.

For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?

Yes of course it does, why wouldn't it? Anyway I have both and they work great!

Yes of course it does, why wouldn't it?

Because it's a Sony. ;)

For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?

Ummm - the remote for the 960 does NOT work the PS3. The PS3 has a bluetooth remote and has no infrared port.

However, there is an after-market solution that I did read about on the PS3 threads that will work. But out of the box you would need both remotes.

Ummm - the remote for the 960 does NOT work the PS3. The PS3 has a bluetooth remote and has no infrared port.

However, there is an after-market solution that I did read about on the PS3 threads that will work. But out of the box you would need both remotes.

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll have to spring for the $24 Blu Ray remote if I feel to lazy to get up and walk across the room.

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll have to spring for the $24 Blu Ray remote if I feel to lazy to get up and walk across the room.


The PS3 controller will work the Blu-ray player, but for $20 get the nicer looking and better functioning remote.

You will still have to get up to turn the unit on and off though.

The PS3 controller will work the Blu-ray player, but for $20 get the nicer looking and better functioning remote.

You will still have to get up to turn the unit on and off though.

You don't have to get up for squat. Just hold down the "PS" button, tell it to turn off, confirm in the next step and there you are.

You don't have to get up for squat. Just hold down the "PS" button, tell it to turn off, confirm in the next step and there you are.

If that's true, it might be the best kept secret about the PS3. Can't wait to try it out tonight.

Ever since I've had the 34XBR960, regular DVD images have an area of warping, from top to bottom of screen, about halfway between the middle and left end of the screen. It's like seeing through a warped mirror, and is only noticed when the scene pans left or right. Images expand then contract as they pass through the warp area. Same thing when I play lower resolution videos from my digital camera through the front RCA inputs, as well as the composite video inputs in the back. It does not happen with 1080i HDTV input from my antenna, though.

It's subtle on DVDs, so I haven't worried about it, but I'll be out of warranty in a few months, and am concerned that it's in the analog to digital video converter, so would show the problem when I get an HD/Blu Ray DVD player.

Anyone ever heard of this or have an idea about what it is? I'll be asking for a service call soon, I think.

Look at the new Pioneer KURO line...... better blacks

I did end up returning the Panasonic for a Kuro 4280HD and im floored by the picture quality, The black levels are *very* close to my XBR960's black levels which is just not something I expected to see from a non CRT and on top of that the brightness is at least 2x brighter than the Panasonic along with much better 480P quality, I ended up paying more than I wanted to but Im VERY happy with the results.

Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.

Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-th-42pz700u/4505-6482_7-32466828.html

Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.

Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.

On my Sony KD-34XS955 Blu-Ray can be way better than DVD.

On my Sony KD-34XS955 Blu-Ray can be way better than DVD.

Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.

If you're sitting the same distance away from the 34" as you are from the 52" I would expect you would notice a difference between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p. This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.

doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.

You may want to consider laser eye surgery. :D

If you're sitting the same distance away from the 34" as you are from the 52" I would expect you would notice a difference between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p. This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.

You may want to consider laser eye surgery. :D

I've seen larger screen sets and the picture also blew me away, but it was due more to size than better picture quality. To compare two differently sized sets both screens should give the illusion of appearing proportionatly equal in size (i.e, sit five to six feet away from a 34 inch set and maybe eight to nine feet away from a 46 inch model).

This is not to say that today's flagship plasmas, LCDs and DLPs do not provide a gorgeous picture. Of course they do. However, they cannot be better than the 960 because, being a CRT, the 960 adds that three-dimensional effect that flat screens cannot along with the deepest blacks available to best enhance picture quality.

So it's still fair to say that the KD34XBR960 is still the reference set for HD quality. If one feels that bigger is better, then, of course go to the larger screen.

Help. I'd like to channel fix to VIDEO 7, (the HDMI input) but the setting only allows for channel fix to VIDEO 1 (or a number of OTA channels). I don't have anything connected to VIDEO 1 or any OTA channels.

I've tried to label VIDEO 1 as SKIP but it stil appears when cycling through the video inputs.

Is there a workaround for this?

Help. I'd like to channel fix to VIDEO 7, (the HDMI input) but the setting only allows for channel fix to VIDEO 1 (or a number of OTA channels). I don't have anything connected to VIDEO 1 or any OTA channels.

I've tried to label VIDEO 1 as SKIP but it stil appears when cycling through the video inputs.

Is there a workaround for this?I'm not quite sure what your trying to do. I believe the Channel Fix option has to do with using an RF modulated source. The channel fix is matched to the RF channel that a vhs player or video console is set to output on. BTW, an RF modulated source is about the worst signal you can input into a tv.

Channel fixing to video7, which is hdmi, doesn't really make much sense. I would recommend you SKIP all unused inputs and turn channel fix to OFF and see if that achieves what you are trying to set up. You might not be able to SKIP the internal tuner which, on my HS510, is labelled TV.

I'm not quite sure what your trying to do. I believe the Channel Fix option has to do with using an RF modulated source. The channel fix is matched to the RF channel that a vhs player or video console is set to output on. BTW, an RF modulated source is about the worst signal you can input into a tv.

Channel fixing to video7, which is hdmi, doesn't really make much sense. I would recommend you SKIP all unused inputs and turn channel fix to OFF and see if that achieves what you are trying to set up. You might not be able to SKIP the internal tuner which, on my HS510, is labelled TV.
I want to skip selection of the internal tuner when cycling through the video inputs.

If I set Channel Fix to off and skip Video 1, then the internal tuner will be selected when cycling through the inputs, resulting in a snowy picture.

I found a compromise which was to select channel C0 on the TV input. This channel doesn't output snow when I'm cycling through the inputs, but it would be nice to eliminate the selection of the TV tuner altogether since I'm not using it.

Is there a way to skip the TV tuner when cycling through the inputs?

You may want to consider laser eye surgery. :D

...or maybe you do... :D

It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.

I see multiple posts stating that the 34xbr960 is HDCP compliant and Sony does specify that but I have not been able to get it to work on my early production 34xbr960. It will not work with a new HD-A3 via HDMI (same cable to another HDTV does work) and my Dish 622 reports that the TV is not HDCP compliant. Sony says no updates are available but I do not understand why some 34xbr960's are reported to work with the HD-A3 unless there was a design change that was not documented as an update. I would be interested to hear if there are others that have not been able to connect HD-DVD or BlueRay DVD players to their 34xbr960 via HDMI.

...or maybe you do... :D

It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.

Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?

I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.

More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.

I see multiple posts stating that the 34xbr960 is HDCP compliant and Sony does specify that but I have not been able to get it to work on my early production 34xbr960. It will not work with a new HD-A3 via HDMI (same cable to another HDTV does work) and my Dish 622 reports that the TV is not HDCP compliant. Sony says no updates are available but I do not understand why some 34xbr960's are reported to work with the HD-A3 unless there was a design change that was not documented as an update. I would be interested to hear if there are others that have not been able to connect HD-DVD or BlueRay DVD players to their 34xbr960 via HDMI.

My June 2005 34xbr960 definitely works with a Toshiba A2 via HDMI.

...or maybe you do... :D

It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.

Are you saying that when I put in my superbit version of Spiderman and watch it at 480p, then switch to my Blu Ray version of Spiderman and watch the same scene at 1080i I can't see a difference in picture quality between the two if I'm more than 5 feet away?

Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?

I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.

More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.
I have a 34XBR960 and watch it from 9 feet. The difference between 1080i broadcast TV over my antenna and a DVD (from a Sony player that is several years old) is completely obvious, with the 1080i being quite superior. I've never tried a HD-/BluRay DVD player.

Also, on regular DVDs, there is a slight warping when scenes are panned horizontally. It is only seen in an area about 2 inches wide about 8 inches from the right side of the screen. I rarely notice it, and it is more obvious on DVDs made from digital camera videos, but it is there, and does not occur with the 1080i TV signal.

Anybody seen or heard of this, or know where the problem might be, or if it is fixable? Never had a service call on it, but I have a few more months in warranty.

Are you saying that when I put in my superbit version of Spiderman and watch it at 480p, then switch to my Blu Ray version of Spiderman and watch the same scene at 1080i I can't see a difference in picture quality between the two if I'm more than 5 feet away?

Will admit I see a difference in 1080i compared to 480p when it comes to "live" material. For example, I have many operas on DVD which look great but am completely awe-struck with the enhanced sharpness, color, detail etc. of operas when seen on VOOM-HD during the weekend.

However, there are many times I see little difference when it comes to film content on the 960. Assuming both sources use pristine prints in the same aspect ratio, material on standard DVDs (i.e., Star Wars II and III) appear just as good as when seen on HD stations. Of course, this is partially due to the 960's outstanding line doubling system and other enhancements.

Also take into account many who have reviewed the pros and cons of upconverting DVD players mention that for CRT, such players are not necessary due to the nature of tube sets and their internal processing (it's flat-panel and rear-projection sets that require upconverting players). However, most reviewers also state a good upconverting DVD player can produce almost the same quality picture as that of HD or Blue Ray if the source material itself is pristine.

From my own personal experience, I just can't see how films like the above mentioned Star Wars episodes could look any better than they already are on a good progressive scan DVD player output to the 960. At the same time, I have both the original and newly frame-by-frame digitally remastered versions of many James Bond films and the new ones are vastly superior over the first releases. So it's not just the 960 that makes standard DVDs (output on 480p) appear so great but also the time and effort spent on mastering the DVD material itself.

Based on these assessments

1) the 960 does not require use of an upconverting DVD player because it's internal processing produces the same results,
2) upconverting DVD players produce pictures almost equal to 1080i,
3) therefore, 960 owners will often see little difference between 480p filmed material on DVD opposed to certain 1080p DVDs since the 960 upconverting is equivalent to that of an upconversion player and upconversion players are deemed almost equal to HD quality.

Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?

I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.

More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.

I do own this television actually, and do have a Blu-Ray player. Switching between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p on the output of setting of the Blu-Ray player while watching either an HD movie or standard DVD and sitting about 12' away the resolution is indistinguishable. If you re-read the post I said that beyond like 5' the resolution change would be hard to see. The closer you sit to the 34" screen the higher resolutions make a difference, like a computer monitor for instance.

If you re-read the post I said that beyond like 5' the resolution change would be hard to see.

This is not that you said earlier.


In the previous post you have said the following: This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.

In my view, there is quite a difference between these two statements. One is saying that there is no visible difference between HD and DVD at the distance greater than 5 feet. The other one is saying that difference is hard to see which essentially implies that there is still some visiable difference at 5 feet and beyond.

Regardless of the above, I still see the difference between HD and DVD(movies or otherwise) at the distance greater than 5 feet. I would say at around 8 to 10 feet it indeed becomes "hard to see" the difference.

The closer you sit to the 34" screen the higher resolutions make a difference, like a computer monitor for instance.

This is common sense.

sitting about 12' away the resolution is indistinguishable.

I can agree with this.

Craigslist has been lacking in helping me find a 960 in the North Carolina area. Any other possible sources to track down one of these TV sets?

This is not that you said earlier.


In the previous post you have said the following:

In my view, there is quite a difference between these two statements. One is saying that there is no visible difference between HD and DVD at the distance greater than 5 feet. The other one is saying that difference is hard to see which essentially implies that there is still some visiable difference at 5 feet and beyond.

Regardless of the above, I still see the difference between HD and DVD(movies or otherwise) at the distance greater than 5 feet. I would say at around 8 to 10 feet it indeed becomes "hard to see" the difference.



This is common sense.



I can agree with this.

Sorry, if my previous post was misleading. I mean that the further you sit away from the 34" the less important high resolution becomes. 34" is a small screen, you have to sit very close to get the benifit of resolutions over 480p.

I mean that the further you sit away from the 34" the less important high resolution becomes. 34" is a small screen, you have to sit very close to get the benifit of resolutions over 480p.

I agree, that one needs to sit very close to get the full benefit of HD on this set:). I sit around 4-5 feet from the screen when I watch HD. I still think that where is some visible difference between HD and DVDs even at the distances greater than 5 feet and up to 8 - 10 feet though.

I have an XBR960 that I am getting ready to list on Craigslist, but I'm in Virginia. I'm probably about five hours away from Charlotte. My TV is in perfect, like new condition. It has been kept in a closed armoire and has never been moved.

I agree, that one needs to sit very close to get the full benefit of HD on this set:). I sit around 4-5 feet from the screen when I watch HD. I still think that where is some visible difference between HD and DVDs even at the distances greater than 5 feet and up to 8 - 10 feet though.

There are two different takes on viewing distance. Crutchfield recommends sitting between 4-1/2 feet to seven feet for 34 inch sets, closer for HD quality and further back for standard definition. CNet states sit twice the distance as the screen size (for the 960 that means 5-2/3 feet) which is the usually the distance I use for viewing HD or DVD.

Again, from that distance, there are many times I find the quality of motion pictures on DVD on par with that of HDTV. I've actually preferred the DVD detail on Peter Jackson's King Kong opposed to HBO-HD (with a 16x9 aspect ratio). Will also admit I have been disappointed in the video quality of some new DVD releases ("300" for example) and often wondered if less effort was spent mastering the standard DVD as opposed to the HD/Blue Ray equivalent.
Not owning a HD/Blue-Ray player I can only go by what I've read and those reviews have been mixed - some rave about the quality upgrade while others found only subtle differences. Wonder how much this is due to the monitor being used in the comparision? Again, I think it's a combination of the 960 (and other flagship units) doing a great job of video processing and the quality of the re-mastering that leads to these mixed reviews.

I have an XBR960 that I am getting ready to list on Craigslist, but I'm in Virginia. I'm probably about five hours away from Charlotte. My TV is in perfect, like new condition. It has been kept in a closed armoire and has never been moved.

What part of Virginia?

What part of Virginia?

I'm in Northern Virginia, located near the center of Prince William County.

The 960 is in Durham NC and still available if you are interested.

Rats, I'm in Richmond. That would be a long drive. Thanks anyway.

I am having a pixelation issue the last few months with off air digital. Seems to be getting worse. The other sets are fine in comparison.

I checked all possible reception and connection related issues.

Is there a service issue related to the tuner board or anything else I should know about?

I am having a pixelation issue the last few months with off air digital. Seems to be getting worse. The other sets are fine in comparison.

I checked all possible reception and connection related issues.

Is there a service issue related to the tuner board or anything else I should know about?

This sounds like it could be a signal strength issue. The tuner in the 960 uses one of the earlier "chipsets," which weren't as sensitive as later versions. (The "5th. generation" is generally credited with being adequate--the '960 came out, as I recall, about 6 months before these new chips.) Your other sets are probably newer than the '960 and include the better chips, so they're not experiencing any problems.

At any rate, we're lucky, because the '960 has a diagnostic screen that reads signal to noise ratio directly in decibels. Go to that screen and see what the s/n ratio is on the channel(s) that are causing a problem. In my case, the picture drops out at 23 dB (higher is better!), and holds solid at about 27 dB. The best I see is about 32 dB. IF signal strength turns out to be your problem, you need to improve the signal going to your set. You can do this by buying a larger antenna or adding a distribution amplifier.

Mark

Craigslist has been lacking in helping me find a 960 in the North Carolina area. Any other possible sources to track down one of these TV sets?

I have 34xbr960 for sale in NY area in perfect condition.

That's okay... I'm in talks with someone in Durham about buying their 960.

I have 34xbr960 for sale in NY area in perfect condition.

How would you describe it as being in "perfect" condition?

Got the 960 today, then went to a pawn shop and got a 910 for $500, but they threw in a free Samsung digital tuner, DVI to HDMI cable, and some RCA audio plugs to sweeten the pot. Having slept four hours last night, and spent driving or moving TVs until 9PM tonight, I am too tired to watch television. Bleh.

Did anyone ever do a side by side comparison of picture quality between the 34XBR960 and the 34XBR960N?

Which was better?

Did the protective coating help the picture quality or hurt it?

Did anyone ever do a side by side comparison of picture quality between the 34XBR960 and the 34XBR960N?

Which was better?

Did the protective coating help the picture quality or hurt it?

Have not done a side by side but in theory if both sets are ISF calibrated correctly the pictures should be the same.

I don't think that is necessarily true--there can be no doubt that one will be able to be brighter because the light isn't filtered whiole the other one may have better blacks.

the calibrate result would not make them loo the same.

Does anyone know why Sony thought it was a good idea to add the coating to the
34XBR960N?

It's been discussed here before, but from what I recall, the 960 has the film-strip coating adhesively applied to the screen whereas the 960N has a plastic-type shield in front of it. When you open the front panel up on the N model,this slides or pops out, whereas on the 960 you have to peel it off very carefully. There is a member on here who did took his to his 960 and posted the how-to and results.

Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?

I don't think that is necessarily true--there can be no doubt that one will be able to be brighter because the light isn't filtered whiole the other one may have better blacks.

the calibrate result would not make them loo the same.

Does anyone know why Sony thought it was a good idea to add the coating to the
34XBR960N?

If done correctly the calibrated results "should" make them look the same. That's the point of the calibration, to set the TVs to the same standard.

Just because one can be brighter doesn't mean it should be brighter.

PS: My statements apply to two TVs using the same picture tube from the same manufacturer. There will always be a difference if you compare a CRT to a LCD to a Plasma, etc.

Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?

If you can afford it get them calibrated.

Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?Some of this non-ISF setup is subjective, and personal preference and taste based on what you watch from what source and what you enjoy seeing. Having the set ISF-calibrated may certainly be a much more objective way of optimizing what the set produces as far as the Service Menu adjustments can provide.

But I think most XBR* users who start off with User Menu adjustments prefer a color temperature of "neutral" rather than "warm". I, personally, have "cool" set because I prefer its look, and then I adjust other settings (both user and service) to optimize (or customize to personal taste) from that starting point.

I, personally, think that "warm" produces too reddish a result to start with, something I find myself then offsetting anyway by other opposing adjustments in the user and service menus. Why not start from something which better reflects my viewing tastes and results prescribed by setup-assists, such as DVE or Avia.

Remember, these factory-provided presets (like color temperature) are simply factory-provided starting points for groups of settings. Final setup still all comes down to either (1) more subjectively-based results, based on personal tastes, or (2) more objectively-based results, based on meters and measurements and setup reference materials.

And what you end up with, even objectively, still may not be what you "prefer". For example, doing a precision and fabulous setup in a dark room (intended for dark room viewing) will be totally unacceptable for daylight viewing in a family room with lots of windows and natural sunlight. Variations in viewing conditions may require further [temporary] compensation from "Pro" picture mode (generally agreed as the proper no-bias starting point for adjustments) to perhaps "Standard" (to get a watchable picture for daytime condition viewing, but that you would not stay with at night).

One more thing... the XBR960 has memories for settings which are either "global" (for all inputs) or "local" (for each input, separately). An ISF technician will thus adjust each input of the set to optimize things for that input, but using both local and global settings.

The long but thorough "Sony Service Codes" thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494) is obviously the proper place to get guidance on how to adjust your new Sony CRT. It's a bit overwhelming, but THE most valuable tutorial you're going to find on the web.

Just for reference, here is my own personal group of settings (also found in one of my posts the "service codes" thread, somewhere), for my XBR960. YMMV, but it might be very helpful for getting started.

If anyone in Missouri is looking for a 960 (ISF Calibrated) let me know. Almost two years old in immaculate condition.

I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?

Before mine was calibrated, I made sure that it was set to Monitor

I was watching Shattered last night with 2 other people last night and we all kept asking eachother "what did he just say?" I've never been altogether happy with the sound reproduction/speakers on the 960 since I got the set last year but its getting really irritating now for some reason. Vocals especially seem off timbre. I have an older 32XBR100 'squared' set up next to the 960 and sound reproduction is much clearer. Anyone else experienced problems. Is this a warranty issue? I'm having a really hard time believing this is normal.

I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?

I had a guy over to fix a tuner issue with this set early in it's career, he also does calibrations so I asked him about calibrating this one. He said that if you set the selection to Monitor and then use Digital Video Essentials you would have a very hard time telling the difference from a 'proffesional calibration' and didn't think it would be worth the 500.00.

I'm looking at buying a used one of these. Bought in 2005, comes with the stand and smaller sony dream theater system for $600. Is there anything I should look for when checking it out?

well, I bought it, I'll have to start reading the thread now :)

lewis:

You have two of the best CRT TV's made IMO. I also have the same two.

The 32XBR always has had decent sound from the internal speakers. (I bought it new in 1997.) The 960 internal sound on mine has not been a problem. I normally use my 5.1surround system fed from the digital out on the TV.

Sounds like you may have a defective speaker? Have you tried any other sound system or earphones to compare?

I had a guy over to fix a tuner issue with this set early in it's career, he also does calibrations so I asked him about calibrating this one. He said that if you set the selection to Monitor and then use Digital Video Essentials you would have a very hard time telling the difference from a 'proffesional calibration' and didn't think it would be worth the 500.00.

Because "Video Essentials" is meant for DVD I'm of the impression it would be less valuable for settings in relation to 1080i because there is a difference between that and 480p just as there is a difference in settings for component compared to HDMI (my DVD and HD user settings are different based the old INHD test patterns and THX Optomizer found on certain DVDs; both were used in conjunction with blue tint glasses required for color).

If service menu adjustments are made using a 480i source would they be independent from those for 1080i? I know they are different with various picture-size options.

If anyone in Missouri is looking for a 960 (ISF Calibrated) let me know. Almost two years old in immaculate condition.

you got a pm

I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?

Your calibrator should go into the service menu and precisely adjust the color decoder settings using specifically designed test patterns. The default and monitor settings are just two different saved combinations of the color decoder settings in the service menu set at the factory. Monitor is better than default, but is still significantly off.

The correct calibrated settings should be:

RYR = 14
RYB = 15
GYR = 6
GYB = 4

See the Sony Service Codes thread for more details.

I think I have to sell my XBR960 because I am moving to a much smaller apartment and cannot afford the footprint. Any recommendations on a replacement that's comparable?

Your calibrator should go into the service menu and precisely adjust the color decoder settings using specifically designed test patterns. The default and monitor settings are just two different saved combinations of the color decoder settings in the service menu set at the factory. Monitor is better than default, but is still significantly off.

The correct calibrated settings should be:

RYR = 14
RYB = 15
GYR = 6
GYB = 4

See the Sony Service Codes thread for more details.

Are these callibrated setting for both 1080i and 480p sources?

Are these callibrated setting for both 1080i and 480p sources?Based on the Service Manual charts, these are "global" settings, applicable to all resolutions.

Note that these four CRUCIAL settings (pertaining to the infamous "red push" bias of factory settings) offset (or are, themselves offset) by the other user menu and service menu settings that pertain to color. And they can all be adjusted, so as a complete set they ALL determine how color appears on the screen. They ALL must be considered when communicating about how a particular set is adjusted.

In other words, color is determined not just by these CRUCIAL service menu settings, but also by (1) user menu "color", "hue", "color temp" and "color axis", along with (2) these RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values. How you start from the user menu determines what the service menu values might end up with.

For example, for INPUT6 on my XBR960 (which I use strictly for 720p/1080i input from HD-DVR and D-VHS VCR) I start off with COLOR=31 and HUE=0. Then I prefer the slightly bluish starting point of COLOR TEMP = COOL, coupled with the "warming up" a bit by COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT (as opposed to MONITOR, which is slightly less warm). From here, I end up with my own personal service menu settings of RYR=13, RYB=15, GYR=5 and GYB=4.

As you see, my CRUCIAL service menu "red push" adjustments" are slightly different from the other earlier posted values. Very close, but slightly different. But then I've got COLOR TEMP=COOL and COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT. The compared visual results of the two different SETTING SETS may actually be the same.

Anyway, the most important point here is that RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are CRUCIAL service menu adjustments that will absolutely improve color appearance and eliminate "red push" that is inherent in Sony factory settings and available other bias color temperature and color axis presets.

Then, since RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are "global" and cannot be set by input or resolution, working backwards when adjusting other inputs you're going to have to adjust the user menu settings for those other inputs to get "best color" for those inputs... since the global service menu color items must now be considered "fixed". In contrast, the user menu color items are stored uniquely by input.

Hello,

This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.

I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).

I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.

My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.

Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?

Based on the Service Manual charts, these are "global" settings, applicable to all resolutions.

Note that these four CRUCIAL settings (pertaining to the infamous "red push" bias of factory settings) offset (or are, themselves offset) by the other user menu and service menu settings that pertain to color. And they can all be adjusted, so as a complete set they ALL determine how color appears on the screen. They ALL must be considered when communicating about how a particular set is adjusted.

In other words, color is determined not just by these CRUCIAL service menu settings, but also by (1) user menu "color", "hue", "color temp" and "color axis", along with (2) these RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values. How you start from the user menu determines what the service menu values might end up with.

For example, for INPUT6 on my XBR960 (which I use strictly for 720p/1080i input from HD-DVR and D-VHS VCR) I start off with COLOR=31 and HUE=0. Then I prefer the slightly bluish starting point of COLOR TEMP = COOL, coupled with the "warming up" a bit by COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT (as opposed to MONITOR, which is slightly less warm). From here, I end up with my own personal service menu settings of RYR=13, RYB=15, GYR=5 and GYB=4.

As you see, my CRUCIAL service menu "red push" adjustments" are slightly different from the other earlier posted values. Very close, but slightly different. But then I've got COLOR TEMP=COOL and COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT. The compared visual results of the two different SETTING SETS may actually be the same.

Anyway, the most important point here is that RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are CRUCIAL service menu adjustments that will absolutely improve color appearance and eliminate "red push" that is inherent in Sony factory settings and available other bias color temperature and color axis presets.

Then, since RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are "global" and cannot be set by input or resolution, working backwards when adjusting other inputs you're going to have to adjust the user menu settings for those other inputs to get "best color" for those inputs... since the global service menu color items must now be considered "fixed". In contrast, the user menu color items are stored uniquely by input.

Hi,

Saw they were "global" after switching to 480p and the service settings didn't change. My factory settings were also 8/9/9/6 and changed to 14/15/6/4 as previously suggested by Shadowknight.

I figured user settings would then need to be re-adjusted. Although subtle, these changes combined with the new service settings enabled me to change the axis to monitor (previously red was weak unless in default).

You are right - the combined changes do make a difference. FYI, my user settings for HDMI are PRO, picture 41, brightness 21, color 40 and hue 5 and neutral color temperature. For DVD's it's MOVIE with settings of 31/21/30/2, neutral temperature and default (rather than monitor). The player is 480p with an internal "cinema" mode which, I assume, is reason there are such differences in picture, color and axis settings between HD and DVD.

I use the THX optomizer for DVD and old INHD test patterns (saved on DVR) for HD with blue filter glasses for accurate color.

Thanks again for the tips. As long as one writes down the original factory settings, one should not be leary about experimenting with some of the service menu options.

....I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).

I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.......

Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?Unless the shop has actually attempted a repair, they're just guessing that you need a deflection repair. 6/7 blink failures appear to be commonly caused by a pair of high failure ICs. If you don't want to sink much money into it, I suggest you replace the standard suspect ICs on the D-board yourself, hope for the best, and save your $550. There have been quite a few successful reports here in AVSForum as well as Agoraquest.

Hello,

This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.

I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).

I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.

My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.

Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?

I had the same thing last year with mine. They replaced the board under warranty thankfully.
I've since gotten rid of the set and gotten a Sammy 5265, which blows this set away as far as PQ, screen size, weight and everything else I can imagine.
I honestly was never blown away by this set. While it was nice, I never got that WOW feeling with it.

Hello,

This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.

I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).

I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.

My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.

Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?

Tough call. Ouch--"brought it in." My set will have in-home service if it ever needs it.

Over the years, I've owned 6 Trinitron TV's. Four of them have needed repair. but once each set was repaired, it played just fine for years afterward. So if you feel this service shop is on the ball--and they will warranty their work--I would seriously consider repairing the set and using it for a year or two (or more!).


Mark

Damn TV repair shops just try to charge the most the market will bear. In my case I recently had an RCA MM36100 repaired for $250 (anymore I would have just forfeited my $90 estimate fee - the bad part cost $60 and was probably available for $20 or so but no way I could find out problem). Your set is probably somewhat better than mine - so they will try to go a little higher. But $550 is perhaps more than the market value of a better used set so you are probably better either getting a used one for that (see the other thread on how little these are going for) or trying to fix it yourself as raouli suggested with the IC replacements.

I do not know if this IS the right place to ask about this...if not somoen please e me and I wil lchange the location of the 'ad'.

I have a 960 with the accompanying 2 shelf stand that I am looking to sell.
I HAD to have it! When it first came out and paid CRUTCHFIELD $2400 for it

Ill let it go for $1200 with stand but you HAVETA pick it up. [I] live in NEPA
Wilkes-barre / Scranton Area (Nanticoke actually!) 18634 zip.

I am getting a wall mount plasma to replace even tho I have NO complaints about my 960.

NEVER repaired. Running almost every day since I purchased it w/o fail. HAVE the remote. It works fine too. Believe I have the original manual as well ;-)

It probably needs a calibration-I never had that done. Nobody within 150 miles does it :0-(((

kctobyjoe1@verizon.net OR kctobyjoe@gmail.com

I do not know if this IS the right place to ask about this...if not somoen please e me and I wil lchange the location of the 'ad'.

I have a 960 with the accompanying 2 shelf stand that I am looking to sell.
I HAD to have it! When it first came out and paid CRUTCHFIELD $2400 for it

Ill let it go for $1200 with stand but you HAVETA pick it up. [I] live in NEPA
Wilkes-barre / Scranton Area (Nanticoke actually!) 18634 zip.

I am getting a wall mount plasma to replace even tho I have NO complaints about my 960.

NEVER repaired. Running almost every day since I purchased it w/o fail. HAVE the remote. It works fine too. Believe I have the original manual as well ;-)

It probably needs a calibration-I never had that done. Nobody within 150 miles does it :0-(((

kctobyjoe1@verizon.net OR kctobyjoe@gmail.com


That's a bit pricey.

That's a bit pricey.

Agreed, these sets are going 400-600 now days.

If it was NIB, then it could be a different story.

If your still intrested I have a 960 with stand in Clinton Twp. for 550.00 kkleiner@wowway.com

Has anybody had any luck getting 5.1 out of the optical output for anything other than broadcast digital TV? Reason I'm asking is that I need to get 5.1 audio from the HDMI source out to my reciever. The optical output on the source is not functioning properly.

Has anybody had any luck getting 5.1 out of the optical output for anything other than broadcast digital TV? Reason I'm asking is that I need to get 5.1 audio from the HDMI source out to my reciever. The optical output on the source is not functioning properly.AFAIK, the optical audio output is ONLY from the integrated tuner. It doesn't function as a passthrough from the HDMI input.

My HDMI Port won't recognize anything. I've plugged dozens of different devices in and the screen continues as if nothing is connected. Has anyone ever had an hdmi port go bad? Does anyone know about how much it'll cost to get it fixed?

whats up fellow crt dinosaur lovers. I've been liking the 960 I recently acquired. Trying to dig through this and the service code thread. Is it possible to get better focus at the sides of the screen? Thats my main issue I think, along with the geometry being a little off. The sides , particulary the right side is a little fuzzy.

Hi All,

I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:

This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:

1) Standard Def TV

2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)

3) Blacks (Black levels of both)

4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?

5) Sharpness with an HD feed?

6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?


Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.

Thanks Everyone!

Hi All,

I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:

This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:

1) Standard Def TV

2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)

3) Blacks (Black levels of both)

4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?

5) Sharpness with an HD feed?

6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?


Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.

Thanks Everyone!

What, other than 20 inches? A tube TV is about as good as you can get, but is a 34" set really a home theater....I don't think so. So, I would say if it's your main HT setup, use the 50" if it's for a very nice bedroom set or something, use the tube.

Hi All,

I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:

This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:

1) Standard Def TV

2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)

3) Blacks (Black levels of both)

4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?

5) Sharpness with an HD feed?

6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?


Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.

Thanks Everyone!
Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.
Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone BIGGER! Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine

I have Panny BD30 with my Sony 960, great picture. I am going to upgrade my receiver to the new Yamaha 1800. Anybody, that has this combo of BD30/XBR960/1800 had any problems on the picture output or sound? I know the lip sych will be an issue that will probably need the manually adjustment through the Yamaha.

By the way, I had been using a Monster cable 400 hdmi cable from the Panny to the Sony. Very good picture. I gave my son this cable because of the length he needed for his tv. I decided to try the Monster cable ultra 1000 hdmi, mostly to make sure I have the sound transfer for the 1.3a to the up coming new 1800. So, I hooked up the new ultra 1000 and was shocked by the improvement in the new picture quality. I really didn't expect that, I assumed it would be exactly the same as the 400 hdmi was putting out. It made me a believer, even at the extra cost.

I'm looking for one of these set's in the Burlington VT area. The 960 or even the 970 does anybody know of one for sale?

By the way IS there a significant difference in picture quality between the two? Are there any problem area's I should look for while shopping for one of these sets?

TIA
Jeremy

Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.
Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone BIGGER! Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine


So the Plasma is sharper than the 34" tubed set??? I have a 27" TAU flat from year 2001 that was the bottom of the heap tubed set that is way sharper than the Panasonic 700U series set I returned. Curious how the Kuro could be sharper than the Sony 34" SFP set.

I have heard a lot about how the 960 is inferior in terms of that "see through/3-D" look you can achieve with the 960N or the 955 series. I have even seen a lot of people trying to strip off the extra coating applied to the 960 set. Wouldn't it be a fairer test with the Sony 960N or 960 w/out that coating on the glass vs. the Kuro or is the 960N with the lack of whatever coating was on the 960 not much of a difference?

Saw the Kuro in store and in spite its terrible settings in store, it was "obviously" superior to anything else in the store. It makes the Panny 700U series Plasma look like a cartoon blob IMHO...to my eyes, the Kuro is simply "that much better" than the Panasonic and the Panasonic really shouldn't be compared or even classified as anything but a consumer/budget plasma.

Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.
Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone BIGGER! Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine


Very nice observations on your part.

I have the Sony 34XBR960N and the 36XS955. I just got the Kuro 5010 and I have been comparing it side by side with my 36XS955 watching the same programs in HD. I would swear they have almost an identical picture look. The only difference is the larger size of the 5010 and also the picture/colors seem alittle more vibrant on the 5010. The 955 is alittle more dull.
SD broadcasting on both of them is terrible..........always has been on the 36XS955.

Im down in Irvine...........do you do calibrations down in this area?

Im down in Irvine...........do you do calibrations down in this area?Yes, I go to Irvine, I have a 6010 down your way tomorrow and a 960 in LA Tuesday!

I have heard a lot about how the 960 is inferior in terms of that "see through/3-D" look you can achieve with the 960N or the 955 series. I have even seen a lot of people trying to strip off the extra coating applied to the 960 set. Wouldn't it be a fairer test with the Sony 960N or 960 w/out that coating on the glass vs. the Kuro or is the 960N with the lack of whatever coating was on the 960 not much of a difference?


I have been reading on this forum for the while, and I have never heard of anything along this lines. Can anyone confirm that this is true?

To my knowledge, both 960 and 960N have anti glare coating. It is just applied in the different manner. 960 has coating applied to plastic sheet which then attached to the tube. On 960N, the coating applied directly to the tube glass.

Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling.

And since the 960 does rescale, it might explain why I had second thoughts regarding a side by side video comparision between blueray and standard DVD demonstrated on a Sony 40" LCD. On smaller details the blue ray portion was indeed sharper than it's standard counterpart but at the same time small details on standard DVDs never appeared as blurry on my 960 as those on the video demonstration.

While I am sure blueray does provide up to six times more resolution than standard DVDs, an asterick in its printed material does point out the amount of increased resolution depends upon the sources used for comparision. My hunch is the demonstration compared blueray against standard DVDs played at 480i and without use of an upconverting DVD player for flat screens or the rescaling process of a CRT ala the 960. I believe the disclaimer deals with the fact that upconversion, rescaling and quality digital remastering can increase the picture quality of standard DVDs, hence less difference. Also, a blueray disc would look better on a flagship model from a name brand than an inexpensive set (but that's a different story).

Again, this is not meant to degrade the quality of Blue Ray but rather that there is less of a difference on the 960 when a good quality DVD is played on a quality progressive scan player.

I have a xbr 960 for sale with the stand in Pittsburgh, PA for $500.

TV has never been repaired. Picture looks great. Please email if interested.

vnarla@comcast.net

And since the 960 does rescale, it might explain why I had second thoughts regarding a side by side video comparision between blueray and standard DVD demonstrated on a Sony 40" LCD. On smaller details the blue ray portion was indeed sharper than it's standard counterpart but at the same time small details on standard DVDs never appeared as blurry on my 960 as those on the video demonstration.

While I am sure blueray does provide up to six times more resolution than standard DVDs, an asterick in its printed material does point out the amount of increased resolution depends upon the sources used for comparision. My hunch is the demonstration compared blueray against standard DVDs played at 480i and without use of an upconverting DVD player for flat screens or the rescaling process of a CRT ala the 960. I believe the disclaimer deals with the fact that upconversion, rescaling and quality digital remastering can increase the picture quality of standard DVDs, hence less difference. Also, a blueray disc would look better on a flagship model from a name brand than an inexpensive set (but that's a different story).

Again, this is not meant to degrade the quality of Blue Ray but rather that there is less of a difference on the 960 when a good quality DVD is played on a quality progressive scan player.Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i. there is a big difference between some of the regular DVDs and the Super-Bit DVDs, however there is up to 6 times the data coming from a 1920x1080p image than a 720x480 image. Not all HD mastering is the same and some barely seem to achieve much more than a SD up-conversion.

Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i.

Yes, but it has flags for 3:2

Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i. there is a big difference between some of the regular DVDs and the Super-Bit DVDs, however there is up to 6 times the data coming from a 1920x1080p image than a 720x480 image. Not all HD mastering is the same and some barely seem to achieve much more than a SD up-conversion.

Yes, and I've also seen the difference in depth, sharpness and color between some of the older James Bond DVDs and the newly digitally remastered ones (especially considering the Connery films are more than 40 years old).

Again, Blue Ray quality was superb on the demonstration I saw but the example Sony used for the difference between that and standard definition was definately not representative of what can be achieved with a top level mastered 480i DVD output at 480p (or upconverted to 1080i) on a 960 or equivalent flagship flat planel. The super-bit and Bond DVDs we cite are perfect examples why.

The exception is with live recordings. Opposed to filmed material, I agree that a 480i DVD, no matter how well it's mastered, upconverted or rescaled, cannot match the spectacular beauty of 1080i when it comes to operas, concerts, nature, etc.

I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.

I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.

I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.

Any ideas?

I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.

I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.

I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.

Any ideas?

Probably why you got it for 300.00 with all that stuff....

What does the screen look like when it's 'warming up'? Do the analog channels suffer the same delay?

Probably why you got it for 300.00 with all that stuff....

What does the screen look like when it's 'warming up'? Do the analog channels suffer the same delay?

The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.

It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.

Picture is awesome. No complaints there.

The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.

It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.

Picture is awesome. No complaints there.

You might want to read the beginning of this thread. I recall that first batch of xbr960s had a tuner issues.

The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.

It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.

Picture is awesome. No complaints there.

Please note if it's your intention to watch OTA signals while using twin view, the right side works only with non-digital sources. When OTA transmissions go digital we will no longer be able to watch two OTA programs at the same time. Those of us with split cable wires can use the 960's cable tuner to watch unscrambled stations via twin view.

Even though there might be an annoying tuner problem with some of the earlier sets, if you are using the video inputs most of the time as you know there will be nothing to be concerned about. Overall, it sounds like your 960 is in perfect working order and getting one with a stand for a mere $300 is even more awesome than its picture quality. I recently got my mother a 20 inch LCD (and non-HD to boot) for $380.

Congratulations on both the set and the deal!

I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.

I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.

I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.

Any ideas?

A longshot, but have you re-programmed the set so it "knows" the OTA channels? (Sorry--I'm at work and don't remember what Sony calls that process.)

Mark

My November 2004 960 has developed the Sony Shadow Mask issue that had been a problem with their 34" and 40" tubes. Luckily I picked up the 5 year warranty.

Tweeter should be picking the set up this week to bring it back to the shop for repairs.

I am curious to see what their Insurance Peeps will say - as I clearly want it repaired. A longtime employee of Tweeter told me that Sony has a bad habit of making their circuit boards and tubes disappear quickly once a technology goes offline - and isn't sure that tubes would even be available.

So, has anyone had a 34" tube replaced anytime in the last 1, 3 or 6 months? I'm also curious as to how good the lines were with the replacement tube.

And, if they want to pay me off, I might consider it if someone has another 960/N in the SouthEast for a reasonable price that can send me a grid showing the lines are straight and no-convergence issues.

If you fall into that category, please PM me.

A longshot, but have you re-programmed the set so it "knows" the OTA channels? (Sorry--I'm at work and don't remember what Sony calls that process.)

Mark

On Friday night I unplugged the set for a few minutes than reprogrammed the stations again.

Not sure why, but it worked! TV starts up perfect now.

Even the wife loves it now. Living with only ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX and PBS isn't so bad.....

hi have a 34xbr960 for sale if anyone is interested in the central mass area for 450.00, great set, sorry no delivery send me a pm thanks

How does the xbr960 compare to the samsung slimfit?? My slimfit went out (after about a year of owning it). I have a neighbor who's selling his for $400. The only thing that worries me is that he says he's had it for 3 years.:confused:

not sure about the samsung but the xbr is and has been a real show stopper heres some specs please check the very first post of this thread

not sure about the samsung but the xbr is and has been a real show stopper heres some specs please check the very first post of this thread

Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.

How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.

Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.

How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.

I own one now and hope that they can replace the CRT. Fortunately I have a 5 year warranty that I paid about $250 if memory is correct. The CRT probably costs around $1,500 plus install.

I would buy another one for $400 in a heartbeat providing a crosshatch showed the lines were straight (and quite frankly I am somewhat mad at myself for not buying another for $900 NIB when I knew were several were sitting 12 months ago.

Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.

How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.

Check the HDMI port, channel tuner, anti-glare coating, geometry as mentioned. Some people get rid of them simply to make room for the new flat panel. So if he has a new 50" plasma when you walk in, there's your answer as to "why".

I own one now and hope that they can replace the CRT. Fortunately I have a 5 year warranty that I paid about $250 if memory is correct. The CRT probably costs around $1,500 plus install.

I would buy another one for $400 in a heartbeat providing a crosshatch showed the lines were straight (and quite frankly I am somewhat mad at myself for not buying another for $900 NIB when I knew were several were sitting 12 months ago.

Thanks. I heard about geometry issues but the xbr960 would be a lot better geometry wise than my old slimfit right? The geometry on the slimfits seem to be more noticable according to customer reviews. I just want to be sure I'm gettting an upgrade here, if not, then I'll pay the ~$400 the're asking to fix my slimfit.

Check the HDMI port, channel tuner, anti-glare coating, geometry as mentioned. Some people get rid of them simply to make room for the new flat panel. So if he has a new 50" plasma when you walk in, there's your answer as to "why".

Thanks. How do I check the anti glare coating?
Can you improve the geometry through a service menu?? My understanding is that you can't "fix" the geometry, you can only improve it.

Thanks. I heard about geometry issues but the xbr960 would be a lot better geometry wise than my old slimfit right? The geometry on the slimfits seem to be more noticable according to customer reviews. I just want to be sure I'm gettting an upgrade here, if not, then I'll pay the ~$400 the're asking to fix my slimfit.

Should be a significant improvement over the Slimfit, yeah. All 16:9 HD CRTs have some trouble with geometry at the edges, though.

Thanks. How do I check the anti glare coating?
Can you improve the geometry through a service menu?? My understanding is that you can't "fix" the geometry, you can only improve it.

Just make sure it isn't cracked or "rubbed out" like an old car's paint that's been polished too often. The coatings should only be cleaned with soap, water, and a cotton cloth, and people who use chemicals on them tend to burn up the coating.

The only geometry problem that's unfixable in the service menu is the bowing of horizontal lines at the left and right 1/4s of the screen. If it's severe, you might not want it. If it's not bad enough to bother you, then no problem.

Should be a significant improvement over the Slimfit, yeah. All 16:9 HD CRTs have some trouble with geometry at the edges, though.

Just make sure it isn't cracked or "rubbed out" like an old car's paint that's been polished too often. The coatings should only be cleaned with soap, water, and a cotton cloth, and people who use chemicals on them tend to burn up the coating.

The only geometry problem that's unfixable in the service menu is the bowing of horizontal lines at the left and right 1/4s of the screen. If it's severe, you might not want it. If it's not bad enough to bother you, then no problem.

Thanks a lot for the heads up WJonathan.

As long as the geometry is better than my slimfit(It Drove Me Nuts!!!!) I'm ok with it.

I'll be sure to check the anti glare screen for sure.
Chemicals?? Is Monster Clean bad?? That's what I've been using. Should I stop using it?

I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960

I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.

Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.

It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.
It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.

Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.

I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960

I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.

Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.

It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.
It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.

Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.

Yes, your right. I've mentioned this here and other threads as well. I've had this set since 08/2004 and have over 20 game systems dating back to the SMS. And the 2D sprite based games looked better on my old Sony 20" and newer 24" SD CRTS. 480p rendered games on PS2 and Xbox look better on this set though. Now, I only play PS3 and 360 on this set.

Looking for a 960 in the NY/Long Island area

hi have a 34xbr960 for sale if anyone is interested in the central mass area for 450.00, great set, sorry no delivery send me a pm thanks
Hi -sent you a PM. What town are you in? Take care, Dick B

I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960

I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.

Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.

It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.
It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.

Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.

How would the XBR960 handle the Nintendo Wii's 480p resolution over component cables? I really need to know since I should be getting my XBR960 set tomorrow and it will be used for the Wii %50 of the time.

I will be having a Smash Bros. Brawl party on the day of its launch and I would really want to know how the set handles the Wii.
Any suggestions? Service menu settings or user menu recommendations??

THANKS A LOT!! IN ADVANCE!!

It should look awesome.

The GameCube's 480p looks awesome.
And Melee looks great over component cables with 480p.

I'm so not looking forward to brawl.
They nerfed that game so much. Nintendo loves noobies.
Such a shame.

How would the XBR960 handle the Nintendo Wii's 480p resolution over component cables? I really need to know since I should be getting my XBR960 set tomorrow and it will be used for the Wii %50 of the time.

I will be having a Smash Bros. Brawl party on the day of its launch and I would really want to know how the set handles the Wii.
Any suggestions? Service menu settings or user menu recommendations??

THANKS A LOT!! IN ADVANCE!!

Wii looks great on XBR960 via component cables. Last game I played through was Mario Galaxy and it looked awesome. user menu settings depends on user preference really.. The only thing I might suggest is try setting the ClearEdge VM setting to Low for a slight boost in sharpness. also in Wii options be sure to change the aspect to 16:9 and finally on the TV itself set the screen mode to "Full".

fwiw, Tweeter picked up my 960 to replace the CRT today. I spoke with the Service Manager for the state I am in and he says that Sony still does have the CRTs available from NJ, which is good to hear parts are still available out there.

I found a way to download YouTube and other videos from the web and watch them on a Memory Stick on the Sony 34XBR960 (almost 2 years old, and only problem is very subtle horizontal geometry distortion, ONLY ON NON-1080i VIDEO; 1080i is perfectly stunning).

First download the flash .flv file with RealPlayer (free version), or any other flash/.flv downloader. I like RealPlayer because a pop-up tab appears anytime I’m watching a video asking if I want to download it at the same time, and to goes into the RealPlayer video download directory.

Then I load the file in the Youtube Video Download Tool from http://www.effectmatrix.com/Youtube_video_download_tool/. It costs just a little after the 14-day trial (I am not associated with this company). It will also download videos, but names them by their url, which is not very useful as YouTube urls are just random characters, whereas RealPlayer uses the title as the filename.

Before converting, under “Advance Setting” select “Change Format” and then “Mpeg” on the far right of the “Meg” row. This converts to MPEG1, which is the format the 960 needs. Then “Set Default Format” to keep it that way. You can also click on “Format Setting” to tweak it for better quality, etc., but I haven’t tried. The YouTube videos I downloaded are only ~325 kbps, which is very low quality.

To do the conversion, click on “Convert FLV to video”, then click on “New Task” and select the .flv file for conversion. Then click on “Convert Now” on the right side of the screen. It puts the .mpg files in “C:\Y.D.T\Converted.”

Then copy the mpg file(s) to a Memory Stick. I just bought a SanDisk 1GB Ultra II Memory Stick Pro Duo online for a small price. There’s a regular, slower Pro Duo should be fine playing on the 960, but slower copying files to it from your PC.

For videos that are in several parts (like the recent presidential debates), name the mpeg files alphabetically, a, b, c, etc. Then play them on the 960 as a slide show, in sequence of name with a fast speed and no transition, and they will play in order. It’s only about a 1 foot frame, but it looks and sounds fine. You can enlarge it, but video quality for YouTube full screen is pretty bad. Sound is fine.

I tried a couple of other .flv converters, but they didn’t work on the 960; either no sound or the sound is a few minutes ahead of the video. The same company has another program, but I haven’t tried it: http://http://www.effectmatrix.com/total-video-converter/index.htm.

Also, if you haven’t yet looked at digital .jpg photos with a Memory Stick on the 960, they are fabulous quality. If I’m not going to print the photos, I take them at a 1920X1080 resolution or higher to get HD resolution, as higher resolution makes no difference.

I have an XBR 960 available in the Toms River, NJ area. Calibrated by ChadB. Absolutely mint TV. PM me if you are interested.

I'm looking for an Xbr960 to buy in the North Texas region. If anyone has one to sell please pm me.

I'm searching for this television if anyone has one they would like to sell. Would prefer to find one somewhere in Ohio as I live in the Columbus, Ohio area. But also interested if one is available in the Philadelphia area as I have family in Chadds Ford, PA.