I bought my KD-34XBR960 in July 2005, and recently I noticed that it would stop responding to certain commands from the remote control. I couldn't change the channel (not a big deal since I use a cable box rather than the built-in tuner), nor could I access the on-screen menu to adjust the display settings.

When I performed a "factory reset" per the instruction manual, the problem got worse. Now, every time I turn on the TV, I'm forced to go through the initial setup routine: choosing language, horizontal+vertical tilt correction, channel setup, etc.

It's obvious some internal electronic component is fried. Anyone ever have the same problem? Can someone give me a ballpark estimate on how much it would cost to fix this? If it's a couple hundred bucks, that's fine, but if I have to pay a grand for a new processor module or something, then I'd rather just buy a new TV.

fwiw, my "fixed" XBR960 with a new CRT came back several days ago - and the new CRT direct from Sony's warehouse in NJ was bad - in fact it was much worse off than the bad tube it was replacing :eek:

It seems getting a good replacement tube is more of a gamble than what people went through when the sets were new - though some were unrealistic to think they would be perfect out of the box.

fwiw, my "fixed" XBR960 with a new CRT came back several days ago - and the new CRT direct from Sony's warehouse in NJ was bad - in fact it was much worse off than the bad tube it was replacing :eek:

It seems getting a good replacement tube is more of a gamble than what people went through when the sets were new - though some were unrealistic to think they would be perfect out of the box.

A new CRT at this point seems like it would be quite a coup. How was it bad? (Any chance they didn't bother to give it a factory calibration or made some other such error?)

A new CRT at this point seems like it would be quite a coup. How was it bad? (Any chance they didn't bother to give it a factory calibration or made some other such error?)

Nope. Right side of screen is red. Yoke isn't in right and lines totally out of whack - no way to adjust in the direction they are out.

On top of that, its being overdriven and anything over 90 IRE causes bad breakup.

There is also a large blue line running across horizontal about 1/3 of the way up when you put up color bars. Tech has never ever seen anything like it before.

I have a 960 in Philadelphia that I need to get rid of. I'm moving and it simply won't fit. It's 2 years old, a few scratches on the top from the one time it was moved - at ~180lbs it clearly doesn't move much at all - and suffers from a faulty HDMI input that was unfortunately defective from the get go. I've always used the component inputs so it was never an issue for me.

I'd bought it brand new from CC 2 years ago. I'd like to sell it for $500. I'll throw in the Avia and DVE calibration discs as well.

PM or email if interested.

ryan@ryanmac.com

If anyone is interested, I was able to go into the service menu and adjust the horizontal size and SLIN for wide zoom which now maintains the center of the picture more proportional to its normal size without affecting the adjustments for the full and zoom modes. The only difference is that the longer stretch begins a little bit further from the sides but not noticable enough to distort the picture.

My settings are: HSIZ - 14, SLIN -46. Anything more causes some of the black borders to petrude onto the screen.

It breaks my heart, but I'm putting my 960 up for sale. It's just more than a year old, and it's everything it was supposed to be - amazing PQ and all - and has never given me any problems at all. But my family is moving into a significantly smaller house, and this big boy is too big for the TV room. I'm in Charlotte. I paid $1,100 for it, so I'd want something reasonably close. Still under warranty, of course.

Make me an offer. I have AVIA discs that you can have, too.

ppstonge@yahoo.com

this big boy is too big for the TV room.

People usually complain about the 960 being the opposite - too small for their TV rooms!

Sorry you have to give it up.

Thanks. I had a friend over this weekend who has an LCD, and he marveled at how much richer the PQ is on the 960.

The thing is, if I can only get $600 for it, my wife might balk at how much money I'm losing. If it's $700, she'll urge me to sell.

What's up guys? My first post here!!!

Just got a flawless 960 a few days ago. Came with the stand. I upgraded from the 955 that went to my girlfriend. I was hoping that the 960 was a recent enough batch that the ghosting issue wouldn't be present. Unfortunately, it's no different than the 955. So it brings the question: Was there eventually a run of tubes that had the phosphor issue corrected? Also, I'm aware of the geometry issues. But is it possible to to have a tech make it perfect? A magnet massage, perhaps? :)

A friend is going to swing by with a HDCAM SR deck and his company's test tape. We'll be hooking it up via component and feeding the signal to a Graseby 9400. Service menu tweaking should give us 709 accuracy. Can any tech give me an idea of how close they've gotten the 960? Is it better to calibrate the analog inputs to 601 and the HD to 709?

Lastly, I'm not a major audio buff. And as silly as the motivation might've been, one of the reasons I got the 960 was that a user posted that it had two-way speakers (over the 955's one-way). The service manual states the 955 speakers as model # 1-825-841-11. Can anyone confirm that the 960 uses a different model, please? I guess it doesn't make a big deal. Just a curiosity.

FWIW: Short of a Unity Motion set that I once owned (sold to a post production house), the 960 is, hands down, the finest CRT I've ever laid eyes on. The UM would scan native 720P. But it was a 30" screen. The processor in the 960 is quite adequate for viewing. But I'd love to hear some feedback from users that have mated it to an outboard unit.

Thanks all!!! I look forward to hearing back:)

Mike V. (Burbank, CA)

The 960 has 3 speakers.

Technically, the 960's Speaker Box (Woofer) is a complete assembly of 3 parts including a top and bottom of the Speaker Box, but the Woofer is a 1-544-952-12. The single woofer handles both channels. As Bass in non-directional, its really not an issue.

The other speakers on the left and right side of the set is a 5.2cm tweeter 1-825-511-11.

As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.

Thanks. I had a friend over this weekend who has an LCD, and he marveled at how much richer the PQ is on the 960.

It's always good to know that although manufacturing ceased over two years owners of other sets are still awed when they see the picture quality on the 960. :):)

As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.

I guess I'm fortunate not to have encountered any serious geometric issues that couldn't be resolved on my own. Except for the very extreme upper left-hand corrner, the vertical and horizontal lines on HD convergence test patterns always appeared straight from side to side and top to bottom. T

However, the horizontal and vertical were improperly set which caused the picture to protrude outside the safety area; after decreasing the HSIZ and top and lower vertical adjustments in the service menu, additional adjustment of the SLIN was required in order to retain proper proportion of the horizontal stretch.

My 960 was manufactured in May, 2005 so perhaps the problem was resolved by that time.

I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.

Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)

Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.

Any thoughts on these two issues?

I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.

Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)

Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.

Any thoughts on these two issues?

Wild Guesses -but its a start.

#1 are you absolutely sure that another TV will receive an ATSC signal at the drop in the other room where you moved your TV? Also, I see you are a Television Engineer but I have to ask if you are 100% sure that you have the OTA antenna connected to the UHF/VHF connector and not the cable connector.

#2 If memory serves correctly, there were some power supply issues for people along the way - and you might be dropping low enough that the set is effectively turning itself off and back on again - thus you get the OSD.

The 960 has 3 speakers.

The other speakers on the left and right side of the set is a 5.2cm tweeter 1-825-511-11.

As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.

Ahh. So the difference in model numbers leads me to believe that the left and right speakers are two-way. That's good. And thanks!

As someone else posted about their tube manufacture date, I also read that tubes made after a later date had the phosphor issue corrected. So that would be the benchmark/goal. It would be nice to have a certain manufacture date that we could aim for. Movement in high contrast scenes is VERY distracting.

Again, the question about 601 for analog and 709 for SD/HD remains. The Graseby will allow for RGB tuning for both blacks and whites. Does anyone know if the 960 has separate color matrices for analog/digital? And if so, what they are?

I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.

Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)

Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.


Issue #1: My first guess would've been that inserting the cable card might've made a service menu change. But removing it, provided that QAM and OTA channels remained, shouldn't have made a change back. As a precaution, I'd reference the service menu and double-check your settings. And as another guy posted, double-check your inputs. Lastly, just to make sure your digital signals aren't being attenuated at that particular output, I'd hook up another one of your tv's to that output. If it's able to tune in the signal, the issue would obviously be with the 960's tuner.

Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.

Best of luck to you. And I hope the situation is resolved as inexpensively as possible:)

Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.

The TV takes a big surge on power up to degauss the screen - and unless you have a hefty regulator/conditioner, you are asking for trouble.

Hi all,

I posted last week about a 960 for sale. After digging through paperwork, I realized it's actually 24 months old - a little older than I first thought. That means the warranty is expiring, which probably means I can't get as much as I wanted. So the $650 range seems about right.

Here's the original post:

It breaks my heart, but I'm putting my 960 up for sale. It's just more than a year old, and it's everything it was supposed to be - amazing PQ and all - and has never given me any problems at all. But my family is moving into a significantly smaller house, and this big boy is too big for the TV room. I'm in Charlotte. I paid $1,100 for it, so I'd want something reasonably close. Still under warranty, of course.

Make me an offer. I have AVIA discs that you can have, too.

ppstonge@yahoo.com

Anyone called Sony and gotten the extended warranty price breakout lately? I'll be calling today to find out, and post my results. I understand the quotes sometimes vary just based on which CSR you ask.... can anyone confirm this?

Issue #1: My first guess would've been that inserting the cable card might've made a service menu change. But removing it, provided that QAM and OTA channels remained, shouldn't have made a change back. As a precaution, I'd reference the service menu and double-check your settings. And as another guy posted, double-check your inputs. Lastly, just to make sure your digital signals aren't being attenuated at that particular output, I'd hook up another one of your tv's to that output. If it's able to tune in the signal, the issue would obviously be with the 960's tuner.

Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.

Best of luck to you. And I hope the situation is resolved as inexpensively as possible:)

I have the service manual, but I have to find it after moving. <g> I wondered if it could be something like this, as when I enter a channel number I know is digital, you can see the digital data on the screen, but the diagnostics show the tuner is in QAM mode. I think the tuner is locked in QAM mode, or the processor is telling it the wrong code, which should hopefully be fixable in the service manual.

Wild Guesses -but its a start.

#1 are you absolutely sure that another TV will receive an ATSC signal at the drop in the other room where you moved your TV? Also, I see you are a Television Engineer but I have to ask if you are 100% sure that you have the OTA antenna connected to the UHF/VHF connector and not the cable connector.

#2 If memory serves correctly, there were some power supply issues for people along the way - and you might be dropping low enough that the set is effectively turning itself off and back on again - thus you get the OSD.

My Philips DVR (3575) works on the same cable as the TV, and receives all the ATSC channels available here. And I am using the right antenna connector. <g> That was the first thing I checked.

I'll start a search for the service manual in my packed stuff so I can check the service codes.

As for the other issue, the set is not turning off, it just goes black on the screen for a couple of seconds. It does not degauss when the picture comes back on. It is just like you switched the video inputs, except it takes a couple of seconds.

I haven't looked into looking inside the set. Has anyone taken the back off one of these monsters? Will the back come off with the TV sitting on its' base?

Thanks, guys, for all the ideas!

db

The TV takes a big surge on power up to degauss the screen - and unless you have a hefty regulator/conditioner, you are asking for trouble.

Anything between $200-300 should be able to handle the draw that that tv would require. The most you can pull from a wall is 15amps/1,650watts rms, yes? I'd be interested, if anyone had an amp meter that they could clamp over the power cable to watch for a spike.

Anyway, the point would be to give it as rock steady a power source as possible. We just want to narrow down the possibilities.

If I were betting, though, I'd put my money on the tv's power supply going bad.

I have the service manual, but I have to find it after moving. <g> I wondered if it could be something like this, as when I enter a channel number I know is digital, you can see the digital data on the screen, but the diagnostics show the tuner is in QAM mode. I think the tuner is locked in QAM mode, or the processor is telling it the wrong code, which should hopefully be fixable in the service manual.

db

If you want to drop me a line, I can e-mail you the pertinent stuff... integr8d@hotmail.com...

Cheers.

Anyone have a 960 in or near central Illinois or willing to ship? I'm willing to pay any and all shipping fees.

Anyone have a 960 in or near central Illinois or willing to ship? I'm willing to pay any and all shipping fees.

I've got one in St.Louis Mo. In excellent shape almost two years old, I had it ISF calibrated the middle of last summer. I'm selling for 700 with the matching stand. It is currently shrink wrapped because I recently purchased a 50 inch SXRD set. PM me if interested. I am only willing to sell as a pick up only deal.

Anything between $200-300 should be able to handle the draw that that tv would require. The most you can pull from a wall is 15amps/1,650watts rms, yes? I'd be interested, if anyone had an amp meter that they could clamp over the power cable to watch for a spike.

Anyway, the point would be to give it as rock steady a power source as possible. We just want to narrow down the possibilities.

If I were betting, though, I'd put my money on the tv's power supply going bad.

Years ago I originally purchased a $300+ APC UPS specifically for the unitand no it will not handle it. I only solved the problem by putting it on an APC SU/SUA2200XL and that is not a $200-$300 UPS.

In fact, this thread is littered with posts from people that had the unit on a UPS and thought it was working properly (as the set came on) but it was causing an issue as the screen degauss was not working properly and the current was limited.

And do you really think that a $200 - $300 UPS could handle 1,650 watts? :eek:

Years ago I originally purchased a $300+ APC UPS specifically for the unitand no it will not handle it. I only solved the problem by putting it on an APC SU/SUA2200XL and that is not a $200-$300 UPS.

In fact, this thread is littered with posts from people that had the unit on a UPS and thought it was working properly (as the set came on) but it was causing an issue as the screen degauss was not working properly and the current was limited.

And do you really think that a $200 - $300 UPS could handle 1,650 watts? :eek:

I'm sorry. I thought we were talking about regulators/conditioners. I don't have much experience with UPS's. The closest I can come to one of those is what's inside my Macbook Pro. But yes, I do think a $200-300 regulator/conditioner can easily handle the draw from the 960, even on power-up.

Are you familar with the word brownout?

There is a reason Sony recommends not using a power conditioner on this set, but to each his (or her) own.

With all the talk about geometry issues I thought there was a little bowing on the upper left hand corner of my set which, as it turns out, was more CNN HD's graphics since the horizontal/vertical grid stored on our DVR was fine. I did notice needing slight upper and lower vertical adjustments to be more within the "5% safe action" so I went into the service menu and slightly reduced the vertical top and bottom from 0 to 1.

Now there seems to be a very slight bowing on the extreme upper left portion (noticable mostly on the black bar on pictures beyond the 16:9 aspect ratio) which I don't recall being there before. The bottom is perfectly straight across. Did try adjusting the two vertical linears but they were fine as is.

Thanks to others in this forum I was able to download the picture adjustments (page 42) of the service manual for the full-mode and will go through items in the order according to the instructions. Some are simple but was wondering if anyone had suggestions on settings for all items or specifically:

VLIN
VSCO
HTPZ
PIN
PPHA
VANG
KABG
VBOW
LBOW

Thanks in advance,

Joe

UPDATE:

Wow, the AVS Forum is great! Found the service manual and was easily able to get back the proper geometry following the instructions for items under 2170D-1 and 2.
The test patterns again look fine and there is no bowing of the black bars on aspect ratios above 16x0. Next time I won't jump to conclusions based upon what I see on CNN.

My thanks to KENTECH for starting a great thread and to all those with subsequent posts.

I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.

Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)



While a very excellent TV, the 960 has an early "chipset" in it's tuner. That vintage is not as sensitive as the current chipsets. (You can go to the diagnostic menu and actually read the signal-to-noise ratio in decibels.) On my set, I need to consistently see better than 23 dB s/n or the picture drops out. I live in one of the close-in suburbs of Chicago, and I need a pretty good-sized outdoor antenna to consistently "hold" a digital signal. So the low sensitivity of the '960 could be your problem.

Mark

Are you familar with the word brownout?


Except for the one in my head, when I read your posts, no:eek:

---Taken from Star Trek VI, if anyone can remember the exact lines:D---

First, you tell me that I'd need a pretty big regulator/conditioner to handle the 960, on start up and degauss.

Then you tell me about your $1,000 UPS which does, unless I'm mistaken, the exact same thing. And let's be frank, unless your battery somehow stores and reproduces the changes in voltage and frequency, it does.

Then you throw voltages sags, i.e. brownouts, into the equation, which, precisely, are what regulators/conditioners are supposed to balance.

Finally, you state that Sony recommends against using such things on the 960 at all.

So it leads one to ask, why would you spend $1000 on something that Sony recommends against? So you can watch tv for an extra 8 minutes?

If anything, I've learned that the already-shaky power supply in the 960 is quite susceptible to voltage fluctuations. So, please, get technical with me. Tell me why my logic is wrong. And please quit with the little insults. I keep a bag full of em', right by my side, for situations like this.

Except for the one in my head, when I read your posts, no:eek:

---Taken from Star Trek VI, if anyone can remember the exact lines:D---

First, you tell me that I'd need a pretty big regulator/conditioner to handle the 960, on start up and degauss.

Then you tell me about your $1,000 UPS which does, unless I'm mistaken, the exact same thing. And let's be frank, unless your battery somehow stores and reproduces the changes in voltage and frequency, it does.

Then you throw voltages sags, i.e. brownouts, into the equation, which, precisely, are what regulators/conditioners are supposed to balance.

Finally, you state that Sony recommends against using such things on the 960 at all.

So it leads one to ask, why would you spend $1000 on something that Sony recommends against? So you can watch tv for an extra 8 minutes?

If anything, I've learned that the already-shaky power supply in the 960 is quite susceptible to voltage fluctuations. So, please, get technical with me. Tell me why my logic is wrong. And please quit with the little insults. I keep a bag full of em', right by my side, for situations like this.

First I have a Tice Power Block and Tice Titan feeding the unit - a 20 year old pair whose technology that was 30 years ahead of its time. It was used with the best amplifiers money could buy 20 years ago, but it had an unexpected benefit very few thought of then - it did wonders for video.

Then on the back side of that I have an APC 2200XL (actually 5 on different circuits) and multiple UXBP48s that will keep me going for roughly 8 hours without power.....so much for your 8 minutes.

A conditioner/regulator made for a pc laptop or workstation does not have the response and amperage needed for a 34" CRT - especially for the degauss and startup. Furthermore, it cannot deliver amperage it does not have without some other source (such as the UPS or Tice Titan in my case).

Again, you go search the threads for the issues using $200-$300 voltage regulators and power supplies, but your $200 - $300 voltage regulator, the kind that Sony assumes everyone like yourself will use with this set, is not recommended for the reasons stated.

I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.

My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.

Thanks much!

--Bob

First I have a Tice Power Block and Tice Titan feeding the unit - a 20 year old pair whose technology that was 30 years ahead of its time. It was used with the best amplifiers money could buy 20 years ago, but it had an unexpected benefit very few thought of then - it did wonders for video.

Then on the back side of that I have an APC 2200XL (actually 5 on different circuits) and multiple UXBP48s that will keep me going for roughly 8 hours without power.....so much for your 8 minutes.

A conditioner/regulator made for a pc laptop or workstation does not have the response and amperage needed for a 34" CRT - especially for the degauss and startup. Furthermore, it cannot deliver amperage it does not have without some other source (such as the UPS or Tice Titan in my case).

Again, you go search the threads for the issues using $200-$300 voltage regulators and power supplies, but your $200 - $300 voltage regulator, the kind that Sony assumes everyone like yourself will use with this set, is not recommended for the reasons stated.

Finally, some meat... This is the type of post that helps us figure things out.

So knowing that you have the gear that will support the tv, do you know how many watts it draws on startup? When it's up and on, the specs say it draws 270 watts. Despite the luxuries that the PB offers, I still fail to see how a 'regular' conditioner/regulator that's capable of a steady 1500 watts is unsuitable.

If response, then, is the issue, for the startup, then I'm guessing a Titan -or any comparable capacitor- would be suitable.

Again, I think this is all a moot point, anyway. I've been trying to stress that mrdb's issue lies in the tv's power supply.

I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.

My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.

Thanks much!

--Bob

Except for the single line "Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be", everything else points to your Apeture Grill is failing. Its a ringing effect. You can most likely reproduce it by giving the screen a good knock and see the effect. A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.

Most likely you are seeing it in the lower left about 3 inches from the bottom of the screen and the upper right corner - although sometimes it can be seen in the on the mid to lower right side as well.

If this is in case the issue, you need the CRT replaced.

This is a fairly common problem with the larger Sony CRT tubes.

Except for the single line "Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be", everything else points to your Apeture Grill is failing. Its a ringing effect. You can most likely reproduce it by giving the screen a good knock and see the effect. A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.

Most likely you are seeing it in the lower left about 3 inches from the bottom of the screen and the upper right corner - although sometimes it can be seen in the on the mid to lower right side as well.

If this is in case the issue, you need the CRT replaced.

This is a fairly common problem with the larger Sony CRT tubes.

In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.

A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.

Adding to the mystery, I'm in a condo with thin walls, so I've got the subwoofer completely turned down.

How does this CRT compare to the Sony 40XBR4 LCD????

or the Samsung LN-T4071F LCD????

I just got the Samsung 71f and to me it looks incredible running Ratatouille bluray right now...but it will bother me if I know that I paid $1600 for a TV that has inferior picture quality to an HDTV made 4 years ago....

How does this CRT compare to the Sony 40XBR4 LCD????

or the Samsung LN-T4071F LCD????

I just got the Samsung 71f and to me it looks incredible running Ratatouille bluray right now...but it will bother me if I know that I paid $1600 for a TV that has inferior picture quality to an HDTV made 4 years ago....Define Picture quality.

They compare like apples and oranges, apples and oranges are similar in shape....... The 34XBR is smaller and they both display video, they are both 16:9 format, both accept HDMI HD ...........

Define Picture quality.

They compare like apples and oranges, apples and oranges are similar in shape....... The 34XBR is smaller and they both display video, they are both 16:9 format, both accept HDMI HD ...........

I know that the 34xbr960 has deeper blacks, but I want to know if it also has better color, contrast, brightness, etc.

And I know that it's motion handling is probably better, even though the Samsung 71f handles motion better than most LCDs.

I know that the 34xbr960 has deeper blacks, but I want to know if it also has better color, contrast, brightness, etc.

And I know that it's motion handling is probably better, even though the Samsung 71f handles motion better than most LCDs.

It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.

It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.

sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..

My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!

sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..

My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!

It just might be a little unfair comparing any flat screen to the 960.

In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.

Then probably not the apeture grill. Sound more like a short somewhere, though I know you said it happened on multiple sources.

On another issue, does anyone have a Lumagen Processor (any model will do) in the same place as the Sony 34XBR960 that I could get you to check something?

Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.


Thanks much!

--Bob

This line does say a lot. Poor-quality connections cause many problems. "RCA" connectors (typical audio and low-end video connectors) are most commonly affected. So this problem should be eliminated before you do any further troubleshooting. I would start by slightly pushing in on the outer lugs of the RCA connectors (by hand or very light pressure from a pliers), and then using some contact cleaner spray. Do this with one cable at a time so you don't mix them up--been there, done that! Then see if your problem has cleared up. If not, you might need to replace one or more of your cables. Once you have cleared up this problem, you might find you've solved everything--but if not, at least you have eliminated one potential source of the problem!

Mark

sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..

My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!
You have to remember CRT's have been around MUCH longer than your precious lcd and will thus require longer to produce similar results.

It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.
Oh, and Sonyboy you have a PM!

sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..

My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!

Well, the 81F with LED backlighting was the top Samsung model for 2007. And would be a better match for the CRT. But still not a match for viewing angles and motion...

LCD can go much bigger of course. Am replacing my amazing, but failing F520 computer CRT with a 40 inch LCD. Well, it's bigger at least... :)

I was trying to calibrate my 960 again the other day and for some dumb ass reason I reset the tv! I'm talking F'd up. I can no longer tune my free digital cable QAM channels and the overlay display flickers like mad.

Has anyone done this before? Could someone get me chronological procedures to fix this myself? I can't even imagine what it's gonna cost to have a tech come out to get this back to normal... :(

I can't believe I did this, I should have just stayed with RGB cuts, gains, and gamma.

:o

I was trying to calibrate my 960 again the other day and for some dumb ass reason I reset the tv! I'm talking F'd up. I can no longer tune my free digital cable QAM channels and the overlay display flickers like mad.

Has anyone done this before? Could someone get me chronological procedures to fix this myself? I can't even imagine what it's gonna cost to have a tech come out to get this back to normal... :(

I can't believe I did this, I should have just stayed with RGB cuts, gains, and gamma.

:o

Post this question in the "Sony Service Codes" thread, too.

Thanks, I forgot about that..

Thanks, I forgot about that..

Yes, at the beginning of the thread KenTech downloaded the entire service manual which I found to be clearly written with diagrams so even a non-technical person like myself was able to understand how to correctly resolve the geometric problems I accidentally created last week.
Be sure to go through the table of contents completely because you might find more than one section pertaining to your particular problem.

There are tons of posts from users so I'm sure you will find advice from others who accidentally hit the reset button as well.

Know you're upset and worried but am sure you will get the 960 to work fine once more without the expense of a service technician. Please let us know what happens.

Best of luck,
Joe

I know there have been problems with the DVI/HDMI input module on 1080i with the 34KV34XBR910 and the KDSR60XBR1, but I cannot remember if anyone has reported problems with the HDMI input on the 960 - specifically with 1080i being driven at 100IRE (or roughly red-lining it).

The problems I am seeing are clearly related to the HDMI input (and nothing to do with HDCP - non-DRM content) and only at 1080i. The same problems to do not occur with analog YPbPr. Or even if you have the ability to put color bars at 1920x1080i on your 960 through the HDMI connection, please message me.

Has anyone had any issue that they know of? I would also suggest that everyone find a way to do this, even if you don't message me - as I would have probably found this out otherwise.

And if anyone has a Lumagen Scaler around with this, I would like to compare what happens under specific settings/circumstances with you.

TIA

I know there have been problems with the DVI/HDMI input module on 1080i with the 34KV34XBR910 and the KDSR60XBR1, but I cannot remember if anyone has reported problems with the HDMI input on the 960 - specifically with 1080i being driven at 100IRE (or roughly red-lining it).

The problems I am seeing are clearly related to the HDMI input (and nothing to do with HDCP - non-DRM content) and only at 1080i. The same problems to do not occur with analog YPbPr. Or even if you have the ability to put color bars at 1920x1080i on your 960 through the HDMI connection, please message me.

Has anyone had any issue that they know of? I would also suggest that everyone find a way to do this, even if you don't message me - as I would have probably found this out otherwise.

And if anyone has a Lumagen Scaler around with this, I would like to compare what happens under specific settings/circumstances with you.

TIAAccording to the service manual, there is a Picture (White Level) Offset (SPIC) service menu item that has separate values for DRC, Component, HDMI and ATSC (includes internal patterns). The defaults are all 7. Of course this item may also have an effect on non-1080i HDMI inputs. I'm not sure if 480i HDMI inputs would be controlled by the DRC or HDMI value.

1000th post milestone :D

Hey guys.

I'm in need of something to replace my 27" Toshiba CRT and I figure a XBR960 would be perfect.

I'm in Canada but I'm willing to pay the freight charges if need be, as long as you're willing to ship.

PM me if you have one in excellent condition and I'll take it off your hands!
Thanks in advance.

In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.
This may not be relevant or useful, but I had a Sony CPD-G420 monitor behave in this exact fashion. It was, indeed, as though the green channel were flickering on and off; a showcase of pink and purple. As time went on, it started never stopping.

The monitor was NOS and Sony honored the warranty; they sent me a replacement quickly.

Anyone even remotely close to central Ohio who is looking to sell this tv, please send me a PM! Thanks!

Hoping you guys can help me out with this...

I have had this TV for about 3 years. I have now noticed that it will not accept any HDMI input that requires HDCP. For example, it will show a XBox 360 game through HDMI with no problems... however, if I try to watch a video through the 360 that requires HDCP - no dice.

I contacted an authorized Sony center (Norman's Electronics) who told me that there was no upgrade that they could think of... and it is probably a case where "the TV is older that the source material"... which seems BS to me.

I tried calling Sony ... and after trying to explain my situation with them (several times)... the basic answer is that it is the devices fault. Problem with that is that this is going on not only with my 360, but also with the Apple TV and with my Series 3.

The only thing that I can think of (other than buying a new TV) is to do a reset; which, as far as I can tell, means that I need to turn off the TV... unplug it from the surge protector... wait for, at least, 60 seconds, and then plug it back in - but this time directly to a wall outlet. At that point, then connect it with the HDMI and try again. However, I did something similar before and it did not fix the problem.

Any thoughts on this? I could always move this TV to another part of the house and get a new one - I just really don't want to spend the $ to do so (or do the research prior to spending the $).

Thanks,

Jeff

Does the XBR960 even support HDCP properly through HDMI? I thought that was one of the added features of the N model.

Does the XBR960 even support HDCP properly through HDMI? I thought that was one of the added features of the N model.

Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.

Can I "fix" or adjust this issue.

I'm nitpicking a little here,as the tv looks pretty good. But, on white text with a black background I notice a pixel or two of red next to the text. Focus is also a little off at the screen edges. Is this adjustable?

Can I "fix" or adjust this issue.

On white text with a black background I notice a pixel or two of red next to the text.

That should be your convergence which most likely can be corrected.


Focus is also a little off at the screen edges. Is this adjustable?

That's much harder problem to fix - and since its a crt, often the answer is no.

Which corners do you notice the problem in?

Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.

Thanks for the info.

Now that we are on the subject can anyone tell me what version of HDMI the XBR960 has? I never did find out conclusively.

Thanks for the info.

Now that we are on the subject can anyone tell me what version of HDMI the XBR960 has? I never did find out conclusively.The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.

That should be your convergence which most likely can be corrected.



That's much harder problem to fix - and since its a crt, often the answer is no.

Which corners do you notice the problem in?

Hey, thanks for the info. It's kind of funny this "old" tech tv is really new to me.

The left and right sides of the screen. About three or four inches maybe are a little blurred (very little, but noticeable compared to the center). I do notice more of the pixel problem on both sides also.

I really just started noticing it easily when I got a ps3. The small white text across the screen gets a little off at the sides. Thats when I looked closely and saw the red pixels.

Hey, thanks for the info. It's kind of funny this "old" tech tv is really new to me.

The left and right sides of the screen. About three or four inches maybe are a little blurred (very little, but noticeable compared to the center). I do notice more of the pixel problem on both sides also.

I really just started noticing it easily when I got a ps3. The small white text across the screen gets a little off at the sides. Thats when I looked closely and saw the red pixels.

Could also be an overscan problem. That will exaggerate misconvergence at the edges. If you do end up doing service menu work first, I would start with overscan, then go from there.

I'm going to have to re-read the service menu thread. Tried reading once, but it didn't really stick.

Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.

Just read that products manufactured prior to 2005 might not support HDCP - does this mean it will work on more recent 960's (mine was manufactured May, 2005) rather than the first series of models?

Blue-ray players have HDCP -- has anybody with an early model encountered problems using it with the 960 (other than having to get an HDMI switch box)?

Just read that products manufactured prior to 2005 might not support HDCP - does this mean it will work on more recent 960's (mine was manufactured May, 2005) rather than the first series of models?

Blue-ray players have HDCP -- has anybody with an early model encountered problems using it with the 960 (other than having to get an HDMI switch box)?

The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/613/kd34xbr960nkq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Hi BeachComber,

Always fun to see in-house confidential memorandums that make their way to the general public, in this case Sony confirming there are no visual differences with the newer non-coated CRTs.

Where you able to find anything regarding HDCP compatability in earlier models?

Hi BeachComber,

Where you able to find anything regarding HDCP compatability in earlier models?

Raouliii is right on the money which is why I reposted his earlier post.

The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.

So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?

So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?

Great!

Nope.

So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?

If you already use HDMI for high def programming, you'll also need to purchase a switch box since we all know the 960 has just one HDMI input.

Most of us will eventually invest in blue ray when it's time to replace our current ones and the prices (for both discs and players) drop. So I have two questions:

1) Do those inexpensive mostly mechanical switch boxes (i.e., up to $50) cause any degregation of picture? I'd hate to invest in one that costs almost as much as an entry level blue ray player.

2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?

If you already use HDMI for high def programming, you'll also need to purchase a switch box since we all know the 960 has just one HDMI input.

Most of us will eventually invest in blue ray when it's time to replace our current ones and the prices (for both discs and players) drop. So I have two questions:

1) Do those inexpensive mostly mechanical switch boxes (i.e., up to $50) cause any degregation of picture? I'd hate to invest in one that costs almost as much as an entry level blue ray player.

2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?

1. I am very happy with this switch:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=204972580

It's $39.99 now, but it is on sale often for $29 or even $24. I have a ps3, hd-dvd A2 and a DVI/Hdmi HTPC connected to my 960 through this switch. The only slight downside I have found so far is that you can't start devices in the backround. To fire up my HTPC, the 960 must be on HDMI input 7 and the switch must be set to the HTPC selector. The remote and IR blaster come in very handy, since the switch itself is buried in the back of my stand. PQ is indistinguishable from plugging the ps3 hdmi directly into the 960, to me anyway.

2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water. That by itself made the ps3 worth it to me.

2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water.Interesting.

"Lost" was on ABC, at 720p when originally broadcast.

I assume your BluRay version is outputting at 1080i to the 960 (which cannot accept 1080p). And you say it is outstanding... presumably superior to the original 720p broadcast quality, if you can remember accurately?

So, the question would then be is the BluRay material at 1080i/p from some original digital master at that resolution which was downconverted to 720p for broadcast on ABC, or the other way around?

And is it because you're currently watching "Lost" at 1080i (presumably) however it came to be that way, is that really why it looks "better" than it did originally at 720p?

And... is this "objective" or "subjective"?

I posted this in the service codes thread also -

When I go into service mode on my 960, the service mode text is all wavy, blurry, and unreadable (its like a *really* bad analog signal). The rest of the picture looks fine. TV comes in clearly, menus are clear, etc. Its just the service mode text.

Does anyone know anything about this?

I just bought it used for $500 and I'm starting to regret it :(

Its too bad. I really like the TV I just want to make some geometry adjustments.

1. I am very happy with this switch:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=204972580

It's $39.99 now, but it is on sale often for $29 or even $24. I have a ps3, hd-dvd A2 and a DVI/Hdmi HTPC connected to my 960 through this switch. The only slight downside I have found so far is that you can't start devices in the backround. To fire up my HTPC, the 960 must be on HDMI input 7 and the switch must be set to the HTPC selector. The remote and IR blaster come in very handy, since the switch itself is buried in the back of my stand. PQ is indistinguishable from plugging the ps3 hdmi directly into the 960, to me anyway.

2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water. That by itself made the ps3 worth it to me.


Hi Long R.,

and thanks for the information about the switch box.

So you've found the difference in picture quality to be minimal between standard dvds output at 480p and upscaled by the 960 and output at 1080i without any upscaling? And the same for blue-ray discs (other than "Lost") when compared to the equivalent standard-definition DVD remastered with the best technology available?:)

That's what I thought as well, since so many films (i.e., Star Wars III, etc.) appear so pristine and vibrant on just standard DVD. And, from what I've read, the differences with blue-ray (and upconverting DVD players) are much more apparant on larger-size LCDs that have problems not inherent with smaller sized CRTs. Guess that's the advantage to owning a 960 with it's super-fine pitch CRT and top-grade technology.

So it seems best to wait until we need new players rather than invest in a blue-ray at this time.

2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?

I presume that you're asking how a particular film available on 480i DVD would look if available on blu-ray (rather than how a DVD would look if played back on a blu-ray player upscaling 480i to 1080i)?

Assuming that's the question: the answer partially depends on the film transfer quality and disc mastering job, but in general blu-ray looks somewhat better on my set than DVD. The difference is not as large as the vast gulf between SD and HD broadcasts, but it is definitely there. (One other added benefit to blu-ray is that zooming a letterboxed movie causes no discernible drop in sharpness.)


Spurred along by blu-ray, I may end up selling my set later this spring. I think last year's Pioneers (too expensive) and hopefully this year's higher-end Panasonics (cheaper) are finally close enough to the Sony reference that I'd be willing to let it go for a size jump. 8+ feet is just too far away for 34".

I'm still on the fence, though; I have a Sony warranty through '09 and every time I turn on the set (or catch up on this thread) I am reminded that this set is essentially perfect.

I presume that you're asking how a particular film available on 480i DVD would look if available on blu-ray (rather than how a DVD would look if played back on a blu-ray player upscaling 480i to 1080i)?

Assuming that's the question: the answer partially depends on the film transfer quality and disc mastering job, but in general blu-ray looks somewhat better on my set than DVD. The difference is not as large as the vast gulf between SD and HD broadcasts, but it is definitely there. (One other added benefit to blu-ray is that zooming a letterboxed movie causes no discernible drop in sharpness.)


Spurred along by blu-ray, I may end up selling my set later this spring. I think last year's Pioneers (too expensive) and hopefully this year's higher-end Panasonics (cheaper) are finally close enough to the Sony reference that I'd be willing to let it go for a size jump. 8+ feet is just too far away for 34".

I'm still on the fence, though; I have a Sony warranty through '09 and every time I turn on the set (or catch up on this thread) I am reminded that this set is essentially perfect.


Hi,

Actually, I was asking about both. :) Have you found a difference in standard definition discs with the 960 upscaling the 480p output as compared to the blue-ray upconversion to 1080i?

Too bad you're more than eight feet away from the 960 because the picture quality is superb but obviously the screen size too small for that big a viewing distance (we sit about five and a half feet away if not leaning back on the sofa).

Thanks as always,
Joe

Actually, I was asking about both. :) Have you found a difference in standard definition discs with the 960 upscaling the 480p output as compared to the blue-ray upconversion to 1080i?


In a word, yes. Most blu-ray players don't do a particularly good job with standard DVDs, and I kept my standard player for this reason. My standard DVD player (which has a very good ABT deinterlacer/upscaler) does the processing at least as well as if not marginally better than the TV. The blu-ray deck looks terrible in comparison (but, of course, looks fabulous with blu-ray source material).


For standard DVDs, the moral of the story is always pretty much the same: the better the core video processing, deinterlacing, and scaling is, the better the picture will be. ;)

Thanks guys gonna buy the PS3 sometime this week, which comes with Spiderman 3 in bluRay atm :) probably gonna get the movie 300 also :D

Thanks guys gonna buy the PS3 sometime this week, which comes with Spiderman 3 in bluRay atm :) probably gonna get the movie 300 also :D

Hi Izzy,

Does PS3 play blue-ray discs as well as stand-alone players? Past posts noted standard dvds didn't look as good viewed through video game consoles compared to DVD players. Of course, High Definition might be a whole different story.

Congratulations and enjoy.

^

The PS3 is a fantastic BR player. Its also the most future proof player for now due to updates via the Playstation network.

Hi Long R.,

and thanks for the information about the switch box.

So you've found the difference in picture quality to be minimal between standard dvds output at 480p and upscaled by the 960 and output at 1080i without any upscaling? And the same for blue-ray discs (other than "Lost") when compared to the equivalent standard-definition DVD remastered with the best technology available?:)

That's what I thought as well, since so many films (i.e., Star Wars III, etc.) appear so pristine and vibrant on just standard DVD. And, from what I've read, the differences with blue-ray (and upconverting DVD players) are much more apparant on larger-size LCDs that have problems not inherent with smaller sized CRTs. Guess that's the advantage to owning a 960 with it's super-fine pitch CRT and top-grade technology.

So it seems best to wait until we need new players rather than invest in a blue-ray at this time.

First of all, there is no e in Blu-ray.

With that out of the way I must say I disagree completely. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my 960 after experiencing Blu-ray and HD DVD. I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.

First of all, there is no e in Blu-ray... I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.

Forgive me for my spelling error.

Of course, never seeing a blu-ray (got it right, this time!) on the 960 I am in no position to make a judgement call.

First of all, there is no e in Blu-ray.

With that out of the way I must say I disagree completely. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my 960 after experiencing Blu-ray and HD DVD. I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.

I agree. While Star Wars Episode III used to be my reference DVD for image quality, it looks so soft now after having owned HD-DVD and BRD. I now only use it for those 2 formats as well as Xbox 360 and PS3 games.

I do not own blu(e):D - ray player yet, but I can clearly see the difference between upscaled DVDs and good quality HD channels like Discovery or MHD with this set. I would assume the blu(e)-ray will look even better then these channels. Some HD channels like TNT-HD or TBS-HD usially look worse than DVDs though. Like others pointed out, upscaled DVDs look softer in comparison to good quality HD channels. Do not get me wrong, DVDs look great on this set and they look much better than SD channels, but HD defiantly looks even better.:)

I do not own blu(e):D - ray player yet, but I can clearly see the difference between upscaled DVDs and good quality HD channels like Discovery or MHD with this set. I would assume the blu(e)-ray will look even better then these channels. Some HD channels like TNT-HD or TBS-HD usially look worse than DVDs though. Like others pointed out, upscaled DVDs look softer in comparison to good quality HD channels. Do not get me wrong, DVDs look great on this set and they look much better than SD channels, but HD defiantly looks even better.:)

When it comes to "live" material (i.e., sports, news, concerts, etc.) there is no way standard DVDs (even upscaled) can come close to HD. However, the difference seems less with movies on premium HD stations compared to a properly re-mastered DVD upscaled by the 960 (although I suspect this might have something to do with way the film is transmitted by the broadcaster). An example is the above noted "Star Wars III".

I saw a demonstration disc of standard definition material compared to Blu-ray on a Sony 40' LCD. The blu-ray was, of course, gorgeous but I suspect the demo also showed how SD material looked when outputed at just 480i with no upscaling or upconversion in order to demonstrate full six-time better resolution (the standard definition side did appear softer than what I'm used to on the 960).

The bottom line is many of us have extensive DVD libraries that would be too expensive to replace (even if a small percentage) with Blu-Ray discs and that most are satisfied with upconverting or upscaling their standard DVD collection. This will all go for naught if the prices go down and Blu-Ray players become the norm. Currently, however, standard DVD players still outsell Blu-Ray by ten to one.

When it comes to "live" material (i.e., sports, news, concerts, etc.) there is no way standard DVDs (even upscaled) can come close to HD. However, the difference seems less with movies on premium HD stations compared to a properly re-mastered DVD upscaled by the 960 (although I suspect this might have something to do with way the film is transmitted by the broadcaster). An example is the above noted "Star Wars III".

I saw a demonstration disc of standard definition material compared to Blu-ray on a Sony 40' LCD. The blu-ray was, of course, gorgeous but I suspect the demo also showed how SD material looked when outputed at just 480i with no upscaling or upconversion in order to demonstrate full six-time better resolution (the standard definition side did appear softer than what I'm used to on the 960).

The bottom line is many of us have extensive DVD libraries that would be too expensive to replace (even if a small percentage) with Blu-Ray discs and that most are satisfied with upconverting or upscaling their standard DVD collection. This will all go for naught if the prices go down and Blu-Ray players become the norm. Currently, however, standard DVD players still outsell Blu-Ray by ten to one.

I find that broadcasted/cable HD movies vary in PQ a lot more than other HD programming. For instance, when my cable got switched from Time Warner to Comcast, I got free HBO-HD for about a week. I remember watching "Pride and Prejudice" on HBO-HD and marveling at the PQ. On the other hand, I caught a glimpse of "Peacemaker" on TNT-HD last night and it looked horrible. Even on the same channel, the difference in PQ can vary from movie to movie. I have a strong suspicion that many of these so called "HD" movies that are shown to us on these channels are just SD movies upscaled to HD resolution. Add to that cable compression...

I would not advocate replacing existing DVDs with Blu - rays because I think DVDs look very good on xbr960. I guess it is one of the advantages of tube technology and, by modern standards, relatively small screen size of the set.

However, I have seen a few movies with good quality transfer, and in my opinion, the difference in PQ between these movies and movies on my dvd is big enough to invest into blu-ray player and start buying/renting movies on blu-ray instead. And this is that I am planning to do this summer. Granted, I am gamer and I rent most of my movies, so going blu is much easier for me than for other people.

Blu-ray absolutely smokes upscaled dvd viewed on this set. It's not even close.

I would not advocate replacing existing DVDs with Blu - rays because I think DVDs look very good on xbr960. I guess it is one of the advantages of tube technology and, by modern standards, relatively small screen size of the set.

My thoughts as well. In this case, CRT technology and a smaller screen size has its advantages over LCDs (and the appearance of size isn't as big as one thinks; the 960 is two feet thicker than LCDs and has to be closer to the viewer than a flat screen - in my living room, the 960 is also set six inches off the wall and appears close to a 40 inch set mounted two and a half feet further back).

However, I have seen a few movies with good quality transfer, and in my opinion, the difference in PQ between these movies and movies on my dvd is big enough to invest into blu-ray player and start buying/renting movies on blu-ray instead. And this is that I am planning to do this summer. Granted, I am gamer and I rent most of my movies, so going blu is much easier for me than for other people.

Good point. Hopefully, the prices of Blu-Ray discs will drop considerably as well as the players.

Until someone else in this thread can run a reference 100% IRE White Field @ 1080i through the HDMI port of the 960 and not get tearing in the top right corner (anything less than 100 will not do it - so you must have a known reference signal generator) - and run a SMPTE pattern through the HDMI @ 1080i as well without a blue line in the middle, I am not convinced there is not a critical flaw in the electronics design of the HDMI input of this unit that clearly is causing issues.

Already Sony has replaced my CRT and the HDMI board. The only board left to replace is the MZ Board under the HDMI board - at that point its passed off the the A board where its analog anyway - and the 1080i YPbPr does not exhibit the issues. If replacing the MZ board does not correct this, then this is clearly a flaw with the TV itself and using HDMI should be avoided at all costs - BluRay or DVD.

well, since it's a 1080i native device, HDMI isn't really necessary, use the component cable.

well, since it's a 1080i native device, HDMI isn't really necessary, use the component cable.

But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.

But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.

Not necessarily, Depends on your set and the device outputting the HD.

But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.

Actually you're wrong. I had my XBR960N calibrated a few weeks ago by Chad Billheimer ISF perfectionist. We talked about HD quality via HDMI or Component. He told me that the component has slightly more resolution to it that HDMI thus the picture will be a little better through that connector. So I have my HD-DVD player video hooked up component directly to the TV and my audio via HDMI to my Denon Receiver so I can do Dolby True-HD via PCM. This coming from a meticulous calibrator who's done about 90 Sony XBR960s. I think he knows what's he talking about.

Actually you're wrong. I had my XBR960N calibrated a few weeks ago by Chad Billheimer ISF perfectionist. We talked about HD quality via HDMI or Component. He told me that the component has slightly more resolution to it that HDMI thus the picture will be a little better through that connector. So I have my HD-DVD player video hooked up component directly to the TV and my audio via HDMI to my Denon Receiver so I can do Dolby True-HD via PCM. This coming from a meticulous calibrator who's done about 90 Sony XBR960s. I think he knows what's he talking about.

That's very interesting and if I was wrong about component, I apologize to everyone. I experimented with both with the HD DVR (using the old INHD test patterns as a basis for settings) and found component lacking badly, but, as mentioned, it could have been the box.

Guess manufacturers are also to blame, professing HDMI is a step-up from component - might be just to sell another form of cable.

I just switched from a DVI-to-HDMI cable out of my SA 3250HD STB to component with no issues. (I needed my HDMI port for an Oppo 980, since it only upconverts over HDMI.)

Digital displays benefit greatly from a digital input, to minimize the D-A conversions, and a 1080p60 signal requires HDMI.
Frank

That's very interesting and if I was wrong about component, I apologize to everyone. I experimented with both with the HD DVR (using the old INHD test patterns as a basis for settings) and found component lacking badly, but, as mentioned, it could have been the box.

Guess manufacturers are also to blame, professing HDMI is a step-up from component - might be just to sell another form of cable.

Joe, you were very gracious in your reply. A true gentleman.

I don't believe there are any absolutes in this issue. I think it's a case of "YMMV." Component video has alway been the "purest" form of video, because it is the least processed. So if someone takes component video and does a poor encode to HDMI, it will look bad. Besides, the '960 does a fabulous job handling all kinds of inputs--and they'll look teriffic as long as they're created and distributed properly.

Mark

I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?

I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?


The information that I have received from my calibrator Eliab from http://www.avical.com was the following:

You will need to set the PS3 to output properly. This will entail setting it to output to a widescreen TV, 1080i, and to turn 24fps off. You will also need to turn Super White on, RGB to limited, and the output to YCbCr. Finally, you may want to need to check the brightness and contrast levels with a DVE.

I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?

CRT HDTVs, and the 960 in particular, have a darker average brightness level compared to LCDs and plasmas. And component cables, in my experience, also contribute to this. Why? I have no idea, and the answers are probably ridiculously complex. But I have read the same advice from other Xbox360 and PS3 gamers, so I think it's correct.

The information that I have received from my calibrator Eliab from http://www.avical.com was the following:

You will need to set the PS3 to output properly. This will entail setting it to output to a widescreen TV, 1080i, and to turn 24fps off. You will also need to turn Super White on, RGB to limited, and the output to YCbCr. Finally, you may want to need to check the brightness and contrast levels with a DVE.

Thanks for the info. Any idea why RGB should be set to limited? Isn't that essentially clipping black and/or white?

Also, you got the same kind of info for the 360? Should it be set to output 720p or 1080i for example?

Thanks for the info. Any idea why RGB should be set to limited? Isn't that essentially clipping black and/or white?

Also, you got the same kind of info for the 360? Should it be set to output 720p or 1080i for example?

The explanation from avical.com is "When using RGB, leave the PS3 at limit otherwise you will increase banding.

RGB/Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1,1,1 when done.
RGB/Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16,16,16 when done.
Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0,0,0."

I only have the info on the 960 and PS3, because that's the current setup that I have.

The explanation from avical.com is "When using RGB, leave the PS3 at limit otherwise you will increase banding.

RGB/Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1,1,1 when done.
RGB/Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16,16,16 when done.
Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0,0,0."

I only have the info on the 960 and PS3, because that's the current setup that I have.

Well thanks again for the info. :D

It works out for me anyway because the new receiver I am buying (Sony STR-DA5300ES) has a problem passing RGB Full correctly. The recommended setting has been to set to RGB Limited. I was thinking this was going to be a bad thing. Guess not. :)

[QUOTE=lzzy;13479337]So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?[/QUO

FANTASTIC!....BR is amazing....upscaled sddvd looks much better on PS3 than my oppo971...the sony xbr960 will bring out the best in your video source

Joe, you were very gracious in your reply. A true gentleman.

I don't believe there are any absolutes in this issue. I think it's a case of "YMMV." Component video has alway been the "purest" form of video, because it is the least processed. So if someone takes component video and does a poor encode to HDMI, it will look bad. Besides, the '960 does a fabulous job handling all kinds of inputs--and they'll look teriffic as long as they're created and distributed properly.

Mark

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the nice words, which go for you too!

Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?

Joe

....Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?..I've always understood it to be for the sole reason of meeting copy protection requirements.

I've always understood it to be for the sole reason of meeting copy protection requirements.

Hi Raoul,

Though HDMI incorporates special copy protections, all one with an anti-scrambling device needs to use is the 480p output to get around it. Am sure this wouldn't stop the professional pirates who wouldn't be using upconverting players to bootleg copies.

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the nice words, which go for you too!

Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?

Joe

Joe, I don't have a clue. But I wonder if it's a cost issue, with component being more expensive since it needs 3 channels all calibrated properly.

Mark

Hi Raoul,

Though HDMI incorporates special copy protections, all one with an anti-scrambling device needs to use is the 480p output to get around it. Am sure this wouldn't stop the professional pirates who wouldn't be using upconverting players to bootleg copies.

I know that my Avel Pro-linkplayer does not output any dvd's over the dvi-i output; regardless of output settings (even 480i or 480p), unless an HDCP device is detected.

[QUOTE=lzzy;13479337]So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?[/QUO

FANTASTIC!....BR is amazing....upscaled sddvd looks much better on PS3 than my oppo971...the sony xbr960 will bring out the best in your video source

UPSCALE ORiG DVDS are a joke. Almost ALL my prerecorded DVDS REFUSE to upscale past 480x. Get a warning. However if the DVD is RIPPED it will upscale FINE! Dunno why.

AND...yup. The BR movies look GREAT. HOWEVER i CANNOT use my cable box Scientific Atlanta model # ? (COMCAST) OR the SONY PS3 using my HDMI
cable connection. Direc TV box however works fine. AT times i get the error
it wont work with the DTV box then it shows up ok in seconds.
I changed ISPs and rcd an answer from SONY how to fix, but it's gone now
cant find correct site URL to ask Q again ;-(
PLEASE reply to kctobyjoe@comcast.net IF U have an answer ;-(

With all the discussion regarding Blu-Ray, I came across the following from Crave at C-Net:


"Blu-ray is best on a big-screen TV: Can you see the difference between standard DVD and Blu-ray? Yes--but it may not be as noticeable as you would think. Like all high-definition material, Blu-ray discs look their most-impressive at bigger screen sizes, where DVD can sometimes start to look a bit soft. Put another way: if your TV is 37 inches or smaller, you probably won't be getting a huge advantage from Blu-ray.

Caveat: Eagle-eyed videophiles--or those who sit especially close to their 1080p TVs--may well see a difference. Rule of thumb: if HDTV programming looks noticeably better than DVD playback on your TV, then Blu-ray will be a worthwhile investment."


Of course, there are owners of the 960 who strongly disagree, however, the more research the more confusing it gets - I come across many websites with comments regarding "smaller screens" that state the same as CNet above.

But PS3 owners should love the following also written by Crave in C-Net, regarding it is best to wait a while before purchasing Blu-Ray:


"the Sony PlayStation 3. It's the only player that's futureproof, it doubles as a top-notch game machine and network digital media streamer, and it's readily available for $400. Oh--it also happens to be a great Blu-ray player, and it does a fine job of upconverting your standard DVDs to high-definition resolutions. As such, it remains the exception to the rule, and the only Blu-ray player that we can enthusiastically recommend for the time being."


So it seems everyone is right - owners of the 960 can't go wrong with the PS3. Too bad I'm not into video games, however. :(

So it seems everyone is right - owners of the 960 can't go wrong with the PS3. Too bad I'm not into video games, however. :(

Who says you have you use the PS3 to play games? Is someone pointing a gun to your head?

Btw, I own 73 Blu-ray discs and 55 HD DVD's. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my XBR960 anymore. There is just is no comparison.

Who says you have you use the PS3 to play games? Is someone pointing a gun to your head?

My wife, who never misses.

Actually, I'm guessing that the price of blu-ray players will eventually become much less expensive than that of the PS3, which is only when my better half will lower the gun.

Uh. My 910 died yesterday. I have my 960 in my bedroom as backup, but assuming I can't get the 910 fixed, I may be in the market for a used 960. Unfotunately, it's pretty rare to see a 960 on Craigslist in the Charlotte, NC area... :(

Uh. My 910 died yesterday. I have my 960 in my bedroom as backup, but assuming I can't get the 910 fixed, I may be in the market for a used 960. Unfotunately, it's pretty rare to see a 960 on Craigslist in the Charlotte, NC area... :(

You are about 30 days too late as someone from Charlotte was looking to get rid of his in this thread.

Seems there was also someone in Raleigh.

Hello,

I've been a happy owner of a KD34XBR960 for about 4 months over 2 years
(just 4 months post the SONY 2 year warranty).

Within the last week, the set has starting behaving odly. When I power the unit up using the remote, I get the standard 10 red blinks, but then the set sits dark (in all input modes) for about 5-10 minutes..

When it's ready, the picutre will flicker in for 5-10 seconds and settle....
After that, I've see no difference...

Any suggestions ?

thanks,

Bill

A sad day for me. I sold my 960 because of space issues - not width but depth. The shippers took it away this morning. I won't get melodramatic and all, but I will miss that fantastic TV.

Hi all,

I had my XBR960 since dec of 05' which i use as our(wife and 4yr son) LR tv, but for a den i'm using a 27" Samsung HDTV, which is ok...but i may need to split my gaming time in between both.

(360 Elite, PS3 and a Wii, the 1st two using HDMI and the Wii using component)

What is the best quality HDTV that can come near the quality of the XBR960 line, at the 32" range?

I know Samsung puts out a 32" 1080p LCD model but the review at cnet was not the best.
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sharp-lc-32gp1u/4505-6482_7-32306283.html?tag=txt

Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?

TIA

Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?

TIA

If black levels are important to you then you wont find a 32" LCD that's comparable to a XBR960. You'd have to get into the larger more expensive LED LCD models.

Hi all,

I had my XBR960 since dec of 05' which i use as our(wife and 4yr son) LR tv, but for a den i'm using a 27" Samsung HDTV, which is ok...but i may need to split my gaming time in between both.

(360 Elite, PS3 and a Wii, the 1st two using HDMI and the Wii using component)

What is the best quality HDTV that can come near the quality of the XBR960 line, at the 32" range?

I know Samsung puts out a 32" 1080p LCD model but the review at cnet was not the best.
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sharp-lc-32gp1u/4505-6482_7-32306283.html?tag=txt

Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?

TIA

Generally the expensive ones. Top-end Sony Bravia XBRs aren't bad, the Panasonic LX700 has a great picture too.

I may now need to switch it around and put this XBR960 into our den since my son is now scratching the glass up a bit, and i can't have it get worse.(he's 4yrs old and autistic, so he does not understand what he's doing)

If i do this, i'm thinking of going plasma in say a 42" model(1080p if possible), but i'm i read the reviews on the best plasma's in the 42" range(ie..Panasonic TH-42PZ700U) and the color accuracy for green was poor.

Actually i may have to go with a value Plasma(Vizio got high ratings in the 42" range) because my son can destroy anything..and fast.

Eithier way, my question if i go with a 42" in the LR, since i'm a bigtime gamer, should i go with a Plasma or LCD?

I'm thinking it's more wise with a Plasma since it's main fault is image burn in, but LCD's have worse response time, of which i know i can't deal with.
(I'll be using my 360/PS3 on the XBR960 mostly, but in case i want to play them in the LR, i need a tv, that's better for gaming)

So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?

TIA for any help.

btw: Can the glass screen be replaced on this XBR960 in case my son
scratches it worse? It's not under warranty but as long as a Sony repair shot can fix it, i could care less about the $$.

I may now need to switch it around and put this XBR960 into our den since my son is now scratching the glass up a bit, and i can't have it get worse.(he's 4yrs old and autistic, so he does not understand what he's doing)

If i do this, i'm thinking of going plasma in say a 42" model(1080p if possible), but i'm i read the reviews on the best plasma's in the 42" range(ie..Panasonic TH-42PZ700U) and the color accuracy for green was poor.

Actually i may have to go with a value Plasma(Vizio got high ratings in the 42" range) because my son can destroy anything..and fast.

Eithier way, my question if i go with a 42" in the LR, since i'm a bigtime gamer, should i go with a Plasma or LCD?

I'm thinking it's more wise with a Plasma since it's main fault is image burn in, but LCD's have worse response time, of which i know i can't deal with.
(I'll be using my 360/PS3 on the XBR960 mostly, but in case i want to play them in the LR, i need a tv, that's better for gaming)

So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?

TIA for any help.

btw: Can the glass screen be replaced on this XBR960 in case my son
scratches it worse? It's not under warranty but as long as a Sony repair shot can fix it, i could care less about the $$.

Very sorry to learn of your son's autisim but so happy to know he is surrounded by loving and understanding parents.

As far as the LCD/Plasma question, Crutchfield states a LCD would be a better choice for those who play video games or watch non-HD material in the 4x3 mode. I would also be hesitant to hook up a PS3 or watch sporting events (with the stationary tickers on top) because of the burn-in issue.

Hope this helps.

I'm a big time gamer but I'm also extremely picky with black level performance, I ended up with a Pioneer 5080 Plasma and couldn't be happier, I was hoping for XBR960 quality and it actually surpasses it.

The Pioneer's have a "Orbiter" feature which is enabled by default and it greatly reduces the chances of burn in. I havent had any issues, Between my nephew and I my TV is used a lot for gaming.

...... So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?You probably should stay away from a LCD, they have, IIRC, plastic screens that are more susceptible to damage. Any TV with a anti glare surface will be at risk.

You could consider a clear piece of plastic (used for windows) to put in front of the 960 tube. Replacing the glass on the 960 means a new tube, expensive and possibly NLA.

A Plasma can also be mounted on the wall, a little higher, possibly out of reach........

I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.

My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.

Thanks much!

--Bob

Good news and bad news: a local Sony-authorized technician came over and replaced the CRT board and the MYCX (whatever that is). This seems to have completely fixed the flashing/vibrating discussed above.

However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic. He did a fair amount of twiddling, but since the Service Menu only allows for correction of vertically oriented lines, he ended up saying "I've done all I can do." When he left, there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right. The top-left and bottom-right corners are also quite bowed, and the left side seems compressed. Ugh.

After a couple of hours, I called the guy's shop and complained. They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?

Thanks in advance for your input.

However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic.And he left with the picture looking like this?? He thought everything was ok? Granted, he wasn't there to do a tune-up, but to repair something definitely in need of new parts, but still...


They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those?Definitely. MAGNETS.

If he doesn't have any he should order them from Sony and return yet again when he receives them.

Make sure he uses a test pattern generator, hopefully at 1080i and at least on the input you use to watch your 1080i/720p cable source, and does his geometry adjustments (via service menu and magnets) with this pattern on-screen.

And be very observant about "convergence" effects (i.e. visible red/green/blue spreading of the sharp lines in the test pattern). You want to end up with white in sharp dots and sharp horizontal/vertical lines, not rainbow effects.

If you have your own DVD copy of DVE or AVIA, you might also use the geometry/overscan patterns from those sources to test/demonstration. That will be at 480p, but most of the geometry/overscan adjustments (and certainly magnet effects) are "global".

Yes, adjusting CRT's is tough, and inevitably somewhat of a compromise as you just will not achieve "perfection". But the type of bowing your picture shows (either from the top down at the top of the screen, or from the bottom up at the bottom of the screen) is a common complaint. Magnets are definitely needed, but in the case of my own 960 I was able to spend more time in the service menu after the technician left to get things where I was satisfied. You may need to do the same thing.

[I've posted my service menu settings spreadsheet before. If you haven't seen it PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you. I think you'll find it quite useful for reference, even though your own set's "proper" settings may well differ, especially after a magnet job.]

Good news and bad news: a local Sony-authorized technician came over and replaced the CRT board and the MYCX (whatever that is). This seems to have completely fixed the flashing/vibrating discussed above.

However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic. He did a fair amount of twiddling, but since the Service Menu only allows for correction of vertically oriented lines, he ended up saying "I've done all I can do." When he left, there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right. The top-left and bottom-right corners are also quite bowed, and the left side seems compressed. Ugh.

After a couple of hours, I called the guy's shop and complained. They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?

Thanks in advance for your input.

No, you're not being overly picky! And, he should know that the service manual has adjustments for both vertical and horizontal lines, not just vertical.

I can understand being hesitant to have this "technician" fool around with the magnets. If you don't feel uncomfortable doing so, you could correct the geometry yourself by using the service manual, which is available through another thread in this forum (there is a section on setting the geometry properly).

I have a monoscope pattern on my HD-DVR, retained from the old INHD set-up patterns which much be used in conjunction with the picture size and geometry section which appears on pages 15 through 22 (as somebody else mentioned, this pattern is on any good video set-up disc). I suggest you run off these pages and write down both the current setting and one you eventually settle on. Drawings are provided for each adjustment so you will know what to look for. Do the procedure in the sequential order provided.

While I've listed them in alphabetical order, these are the data settings I use for the FULL mode:

HPOS - 29
HSIZ - 44
HTPZ - 0
LANG - 18
LBOW - 42
LCP - 41
MPIN - 9
PIN - 17
PPHA - 19
SCRL - 28
SLIN - 8
UPC - 36
VANG - 37
VBOW - 30
VCEN - 16
VLIN - 4
VPIN - 15
VPOS - 27
VSCO - 4
VSIZ - 29

Most of these also affect Wide Zoom. The only ones that can be adjusted individually for that mode are:

ASAPT - 22
ASW - 0
HPOS - 29
HSIZ - 47
LPC - 42
PIN - 28
PPHA - 22
SCRL - 29
SLIN - 14
UPC - 45
VLIN - 7
VSCO - 8

All these devices are found under sections 2105D-1 and 2105D-2.

If you're not familiar with making service adjustments, the service manual will provide information on how to get the adjustment options to appear on your screen, to manuever within them, adjust the settings and how to save them. As mentioned, write down the original factory settings in case you want to return to them.

Only do this if you feel comfortable doing so. Again, if you do write down what the original settings are, you can always re-enter them so you don't have to worry about anything.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right.
This is called seagull and I know of no single adjustment for it in direct-view tubes. But combinations of settings can surely alleviate the problem if someone knows what they're doing.
In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?
No, and from what you've told me I wouldn't let one of that company's techs anywhere near my sets with magnets. Clearly the service menu was altered, and new alterations should reverse the damage they did. If they can't figure out how, it still makes no sense for them to pop the bucket.

A question for those hooking up both a blu-ray player and HD cable box via HDMI:

Did you have to adjust the 960's picture settings (brightness, picture, color, hue, sharpness and clear-edge) for blu-ray in lieu of the settings originally used for HDTV? Or did you simply use a different picture mode (cinema) for blu-ray (as opposed to "Pro") for cable?

Although I prefer "Pro" for all my video inputs, I would use "Cinema" if two different sets of adjustments were required (while guessing blu-ray players have their own picture menus it is possible the optomin picture qualty might not be achievable with the 960 settings as they are for TV).

Thanx as always

i'm selling my xbr 960. located in the dayton, ohio area. pm if interested. thx!

While we may not notice much of an improvement in the picture on our "small" screens, I'm wondering if anyone has noticed an improvement in audio quality? It is my understanding that audio quality degraded in the shift from laser disk to DVD and with the move to Blu-Ray the sound is back to where it was.

Sound quality... through the 960? Is that what you're asking? Very, very poor compared to a dedicated speaker setup. About what is to be expected when using the built in speakers for audio. I'm not even sure what audio connections are on the back of the 960 (toslink maybe,) but watching BluRay movies with stereo audio using weak TV speakers is sort of a waste.

To get the most out of BluRay (even DVD for that matter) you'll need a decent 5.1 setup (or, if you have the room, 7.1,) and a receiver capable of decoding TrueHD or DTS MA.

If you're just asking a general question about the audio on DVD vs the audio on BluRay discs it is a huge improvement given you have a speaker setup that's up to snuff. BluRay uses lossless compression (as opposed to lossy,) so you're virtually getting what's on the studio master.

Sound quality... through the 960? Is that what you're asking? Very, very poor compared to a dedicated speaker setup. About what is to be expected when using the built in speakers for audio. I'm not even sure what audio connections are on the back of the 960 (toslink maybe,) but watching BluRay movies with stereo audio using weak TV speakers is sort of a waste.

To get the most out of BluRay (even DVD for that matter) you'll need a decent 5.1 setup (or, if you have the room, 7.1,) and a receiver capable of decoding TrueHD or DTS MA.

If you're just asking a general question about the audio on DVD vs the audio on BluRay discs it is a huge improvement given you have a speaker setup that's up to snuff. BluRay uses lossless compression (as opposed to lossy,) so you're virtually getting what's on the studio master.
Maybe I took to much for granted but I assumed that most of us are using a 5.1 system. So my question is about the improvement to the overall experience, both audio and visual.

i'm selling my xbr 960. located in the dayton, ohio area. pm if interested. thx!

PM sent.

Hello! I've been using my 960 without incident since 2005 (this is actually my first post since registering specifically to do research on the 960 back then!), but recently it's developed an intermittent issue: Basically it looks like the TV turns off then on again in a split second, almost like a flicker or pop (and makes a noise similar to when you turn it off). It doesn't seem like it's actually powering off, as no onscreen text or input label ever appears. It's like the screen blinks and then everything is fine. The original warranty expired last September and I never got around to extending it with Sony. I'm assuming it's too late to purchase any further warranty coverage from them, so I'm a bit worried that this might turn into something worse. Any idea what might be happening here?

I have a KD-34XBR960 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q0Uwhs5CwUj/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=158KD34XBR), does anyone know if the Sony "Control S" remote link is compatible with Onkyo/Integra "Remote Interactive" or "RI", Specifically the Integra DTR-7.6? The Sony instruction manual (http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=KD34XBR960) is rather vague on this topic.




http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2004/158/h158kd34xbr-b.jpeg

Had a little panic situation this afternoon which I was finally able to resolve.

Read in the service manual (under geometry) how to access the appropriate test patterns in the 960. I wanted to see if these might be better than using those stored on my DVR from the old INHD (was happy to see very slight adjustments were required for only one or two settings).

The problem? The pattern remained on the screen after exiting the service options. No special instructions in the service manual on how to exit from them, nor did Sony CS know how to do it (he just had me unplug the set for a minute). Returning the DTV/pattern to it's original "0" and entering "write" would only leave the original black screen; the pattern last used returned when turning the set back on. Would have to wait till tomorrow to call a special service number. Needless to say I was ready to kick myself for being so obsessive and afraid I was going to hear it from my better half for fooling around with something I shouldn't have.

Fortunately I found the remedy - remembered seeing a category for HDMI when skipping through the service settings. Found it and a sub-category (I forgot what) which enabled me to reset the input to the HDMI. Whew, will never go that route again (and surprised instructions on returning to the HDMI input were not written at the end of the geometric section of the service manual).

Checked my service settings (which all remained in-tact) and only had to re-adjust the user menu settings (also written down previously).

Funny thing. I keept the 960 unplugged for more almost ten minutes hoping it would do the trick. While that didn't work out, when the problem was resolved and the user settings re-set properly, I thought I saw a slightly better overall picture. Assumed this was wishful thinking on my part along with the relief that I finally got the picture back; but then I noticed pure white on the extreme top right hand corner of the 5% safety line of the overscan pattern whereas it was slightly blue before.

I know the 960 automaticly degauses when turned on. Could unplugging it for nearly ten minutes have done a better job and also provide the set with a "quick tune-up"?

Whatever, I learned my lesson and thanked my wife for not getting too upset and annoyed with me.

I have a KD-34XBR960, does anyone know if the Sony "Control S" remote link is compatible with Onkyo/Integra "Remote Interactive" or "RI", Specifically the Integra DTR-5.5? The Sony instruction manual is rather vague on this topic.



The Sony Control-S port is compatible with the Onkyo IR port. It is not compatible with the RI port - that only works with other RI products.

Some of the Onkyo Receivers have both ports. Others do not. I suspect this is what the IR In/Out is on your receiver which is detailed on page 78-79 of the DTR-5.5 owner's manual.

Using audio from the HDMI, does the optical audio-out of the 960 ouput 5.1 to a Dolby Digital receiver or just 2.0?

I once tried this and was unable to get a 5.1 signal out of the receiver.

Using audio from the HDMI, does the optical audio-out of the 960 ouput 5.1 to a Dolby Digital receiver or just 2.0?

I once tried this and was unable to get a 5.1 signal out of the receiver.I don't know for absolute sure, but I don't believe the 960 actually "accepts" 5.1 on its HDMI input. Of course the audio system in the set doesn't actually have 5.1 processors and speakers, so it's hard to argue otherwise nor prove that it does or does not.

But as you were unable to "route" the digital HDMI-provided audio via the optical output of the 960 to a receiver and have it appear as 5.1 input to the receiver, that would suggest we're dealing with 2.0 audio for the 960, likely from the HDMI source itself... which is not providing 5.1 to the 960 but rather only 2.0.

I think this is also how the SA8300 works, when you connect it via HDMI-to-HDMI to the HDMI input of a flat-panel like the Sharp Aquos, and then also connect the optical output of the SA8300 to an audio receiver/processor. Turns out you will not get 5.1 audio delivered from the SA8300 to the receiver, because the Sharp Aquos denies 5.1 capability to the HDMI connection and the SA8300 "shuts down" its 5.1 circuitry entirely, feeding only standard 2.0 PCM stereo outputs to all of its digital outputs (including the Aquos via HDMI, and the optical output of the SA8300 itself).

The way to circumvent this for the SA8300 is to connect it to the Sharp Aquos via an HDMI-to-DVI cable, to the DVI input of the Sharp Aquos instead (where audio is not involved). That way the Aquos cannot "deny" 5.1 audio capability, and the SA8300 will thus not shut down 5.1 audio output, and thus the SA8300 now delivers full 5.1 audio to the optically connected receiver/processor. And anyway, who would be using the tiny audio system of the Aquos when you had an outboard external 5.1 audio system?

I suspect the XBR960 and your 5.1-capable audio source are working similarly... except that there is no DVI-only input on the 960 to "fool your source".


P.S. - that's one reason I use component video connection from my sources (DVR and D-VHS) to my 960, while sending 5.1 digital audio optically from the source direct to the receiver. No "audio routing" attempted through the 960.

I honestly have not observed any visual difference on the 960 from component video vs. HDMI video. Staying with component connections allows me to use my Zektor switch to select component video to the TV and corresponding optical digital audio to the receiver, as the Zektor supports component video and optical/coax/analog audio inputs and outputs. Maximum possible audio/video flexibility and quality, and full 5.1 capability... just not through the 960.

I am using the optical out to my receiver 5.1 system with a CableCARD and it works fine.

Nothing connected to the HDMI input.

I am using the optical out to my receiver 5.1 system with a CableCARD and it works fine.Quite a difference between coax from cable as source (using QAM tuner, and extracting provided 5.1 digital audio and sending it directly to the optical output) and not being fed 5.1 via HDMI from an HDMI-source because the set "denies 5.1 ability". If the set is not given 5.1 audio, it certainly has no 5.1 audio to send to its optical output.

Nothing connected to the HDMI input.This would seem to be a major difference. There's no way to "deny 5.1 ability" to the cable's coax, hence why 5.1 digital audio enters the 960's digital audio system from the QAM tuner.

P.S. - that's one reason I use component video connection from my sources (DVR and D-VHS) to my 960, while sending 5.1 digital audio optically from the source direct to the receiver. No "audio routing" attempted through the 960".

Yes, I have the audio directly going to my dolby digital receiver via optical fom the SA 8300 DVR. Was hoping 5.1 could be output from the 960 so I wouldn't have to change the box's audio setting from HDMI to Dolby Digital when switching from the TV speakers to the receiver.

I honestly have not observed any visual difference on the 960 from component video vs. HDMI video.

I do, big time.

Before getting the DVR, picture quality from component did match that of HDMI, however, my adjustments were based on visual observations without the aid of HD test patterns. With the DVR, I was able to store the HD test patterns from the old INHD onto it's hard drive; used in conjunction with blue-filter glasses, it enabled me to precisely adjust the settings for each input (different settings were required for each input). Black level, contrast, color and sharpness for component could not be improved to the fine degree as was HDMI -- component seemed dull compared to the vividness of HDMI.

Hello! I've been using my 960 without incident since 2005 (this is actually my first post since registering specifically to do research on the 960 back then!), but recently it's developed an intermittent issue: Basically it looks like the TV turns off then on again in a split second, almost like a flicker or pop (and makes a noise similar to when you turn it off). It doesn't seem like it's actually powering off, as no onscreen text or input label ever appears. It's like the screen blinks and then everything is fine. The original warranty expired last September and I never got around to extending it with Sony. I'm assuming it's too late to purchase any further warranty coverage from them, so I'm a bit worried that this might turn into something worse. Any idea what might be happening here?

silent_man: I think your set is experiencing the same thing as my Sony 34XBR970 - high voltage arcing. My set is 1 3/4 years old. I thought it was because I had a large stereo speaker next to my set causing the set to constantly degauss itself. I moved the speaker away and am still getting the anomaly. Sony suggested to uplug the set for a minute but that did not help. I plan to call Sony for service. The picture is fine. But the screen flash is annoying and I fear the arcing is doing damage. Let me know what you find out to be the root cause (and the cost to repair).

Yes, I have the audio directly going to my dolby digital receiver via optical fom the SA 8300 DVR. Was hoping 5.1 could be output from the 960 so I wouldn't have to change the box's audio setting from HDMI to Dolby Digital when switching from the TV speakers to the receiver.



I do, big time.

Before getting the DVR, picture quality from component did match that of HDMI, however, my adjustments were based on visual observations without the aid of HD test patterns. With the DVR, I was able to store the HD test patterns from the old INHD onto it's hard drive; used in conjunction with blue-filter glasses, it enabled me to precisely adjust the settings for each input (different settings were required for each input). Black level, contrast, color and sharpness for component could not be improved to the fine degree as was HDMI -- component seemed dull compared to the vividness of HDMI.

The difference could be due to the low quality of the video DAC and decoder built in to your DVR. Even though the 960 is High Defintion, The tube is an analogue device and digital signals still require decoding. The decoder and DAC in the KD-34XBR960 is probably better than the one in the TiVo you use. Higher end DVD players (or maybe Oppo?) will have better quality video dacs and will look just as good as the 960's HDMI or possibly better over a component connection.

The difference could be due to the low quality of the video DAC and decoder built in to your DVR. Even though the 960 is High Defintion, The tube is an analogue device and digital signals still require decoding. The decoder and DAC in the KD-34XBR960 is probably better than the one in the TiVo you use. Higher end DVD players (or maybe Oppo?) will have better quality video dacs and will look just as good as the 960's HDMI or possibly better over a component connection.

FYI - use the SA 8300 HD DVR from my cable provider.

Should have mentioned that when first getting the 960, we had the SA 4200 HD Box only and that's when we noticed little difference between component and HDMI. When we got the SA 8300 HD DVR we immediately noticed a stonger picture (probably due to a higher quality built-in tuner). Again, after recording the INHD test patterns we experimented between both inputs and that's when a difference between the two was found.

I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.

I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.

Congratulations and welcome to the club.
If you are using an antenna, it's a good idea to scan for digital channels prior to viewing; every once and a while I will find a new station that way and occasionally pick up new channels from 100 miles away that I had never seen before in analogue or digital. Anyhow, you are correct this TV awesome and in the years to come it may become somewhat of coveted legend, similar to the way we covet vintage tube audio equipment or old Marantz receivers. Sony just hasn't been the same or quite as good since they discontinued the 960.

I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.

Congrats, you have got a great HDTV. :)

Thanks for the tips. I'm not OTA yet, but perhaps in the near future. Funny you should mention the old tube amps, I've got a Sansui QR-6500! And I'm a CRT Projector guy.... Barco Data 800!

I'm selling my xbr960 tube is only 9 months old pm me.brooklyn new york area..

How can it possibly only be 9 months old when that tv sold about 3-5 years ago?

Watch out everyone. Looks like a scam!

Just Bought A 34xbr960 With STANd 2 Yrs Old In Mint Condition Off Of Craiglist For 400.00 Dollars, Am In The Process Of Hooking It Up To A Sony V444es Receiver,and A Panasonic S97, Hope It Works As Well As All The Coments I Have Been Seeing,i Am A Newbie To This Hd Stuff !!!

Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.

Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!

the tube was replaced under warranty 9 months ago the first tube's coating was coming off so it was replaced by sony..

the tube was replaced under warranty 9 months ago the first tube's coating was coming off so it was replaced by sony..


But was it replaced with another super-fine pitch tube or the one later used for the 970, which is not super-fine pitch?

But was it replaced with another super-fine pitch tube or the one later used for the 970, which is not super-fine pitch?

I fear the worst.... :eek:

Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.

Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!

I would agree that the picture is better, but not sure that I think a 34" television can be compared on the same level as a 50" or larger set. Don't get me wrong, I love the TV, but my new 62" which is nearly 4 times larger is far very impressive.

I would agree that the picture is better, but not sure that I think a 34" television can be compared on the same level as a 50" or larger set. Don't get me wrong, I love the TV, but my new 62" which is nearly 4 times larger is far very impressive.

I would have to agree.. My 34XBR960 has a great picture but it literally pales in comparison to my latest 50" Kuro plasma. The plasma is far more vibrant, crisper and has amazing black levels even in a dark room which doesnt leave a lot to the CRT's advantage (other than slightly better color accuracy) I also love the perfect corner to corner focus which is something that always stuck out like a sore thumb on my XBR960 when using PC or Video games.

Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.

Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!


I would agree with you up to about 99%. I have seen the latest generation Kuro Plasmas, perticualarly the 60" Elite model blows my calibrated KD-34XBR960 away. Since testing the Kuro, I now belive the 960 is the second best set on the market where price is no object. Costs considered, the 960 cannot be beat and the Panasonic Viera is the next best thing for the frugal minded.

Hi all,

Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.

However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:


"CRT actually has higher resolution ...

if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)

1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT

With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:

1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels

Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by
the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million
pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.

Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.

The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...
With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5
million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."


This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.

Hi all,

Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.

However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:


"CRT actually has higher resolution ...

if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)

1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT

With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:

1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels

Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by
the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million
pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.

Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.

The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...
With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5
million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."


This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.

To my eyes, Live broadcasts in 1080i are noticeably much sharper and more detailed than broadcasts in 720p. Considering the high density of the pixels/lines being cram so close together, it appears to be smoother than lower resolution interlaced images like 480i.

Take a static image for example, In scan line number one and three in frame one has certain image data that will not be part of the next scan lines 2 or 4. Even though it is interlaced, more image information is being presented to you, though not at the same micro-second. 1080i is technically more detailed but does not have the smooth finish of a progressive image. Hopefully in over the next decade the governing bodies of HDTV protocol will make amendments to allow for 1080p to be simulcasted over secondary channels.

If you ask me, all channels should broadcast in 1080i and lower resolution sets can easily downgrade and deinterlace that signal and display a quasi-native resolution based on 1080i.

To my eyes, Live broadcasts in 1080i are noticeably much sharper and more detailed than broadcasts in 720p.

Agree, big, big difference. Look at the soft pictures on FOX when broadcasting sporting events in 720p.

If you ask me, all channels should broadcast in 1080i and lower resolution sets can easily downgrade and deinterlace that signal and display a quasi-native resolution based on 1080i.

I agree also. In theory, progressive scanning is much better for fast-moving sports than interlaced scanning, because with interlaced there's a time difference between the two fields that make up each frame. But in practice, I haven't noticed any objectionable artifacts at all with 1080i. Of course, YMMV, and other may have different opinions.

But the main purpose for my post is to point out that technical decisions are usually made by general managers and accountants, not by engineers. 720p takes up less bandwidth than 1080i. That means local stations can squeeze in another sub-channel if they switch from 720p to 1080i. And that means another revenue stream for them. Can't blame them, really, for trying to stay profitable as viewer ratings decline. But it's a shame. Even PBS switched to 720p.

Mark

Hi all,

Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.

However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:


"CRT actually has higher resolution ...

if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)

1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT

With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:

1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels

Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by
the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million
pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.

Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.

The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...
With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5
million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."


This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.


This resolution discussion seems rather off-base; probably because the original discussion appears to be about FP CRT capability; not direct views (and only the best FP CRTs (9inches) are capable of 1080p. However most FP CRTs are capable of 1080i; whereas direct view CRTs are not in the general case.

A tube CRT scans 540 lines (actually a little less normally on screen if the set has some overscan). So if a 1080i signal is coming in the SFP sets will be able to resolve 1400x540*2 for a frame (1,512,000) and non-SFP sets 850x540x2 (918000) (Fields would be ½ this number). So since its higher than the somewhat accepted 1.2 million or so the SFPs can be called full High Definition capable but the others really aren’t. The numbers for a 720 p broadcast will be a little lower for an SFP set at 1280x720 (921600 – which is what’s being sent and you can’t squeeze out more than what the signal starts with). In the 720p case most other tubes will resolve 850x720 (612000) which would be a stretch to call HD. And these numbers give full credit for vertical resolution. I doubt that is accurate. The 1920 horizontal pixels in the 1080i signal do not really matter if a set can only resolve a fraction of the pixels (1400 SFP or 850 other direct view CRTs).

This resolution discussion seems rather off-base; probably because the original discussion appears to be about FP CRT capability; not direct views (and only the best FP CRTs (9inches) are capable of 1080p. However most FP CRTs are capable of 1080i; whereas direct view CRTs are not in the general case.

Perhaps you meant RP CRT?
Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?:confused:

Perhaps you meant RP CRT?
Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?:confused:


Rats - I had to uncheck my ignore list to see what you said. Will get you back on it as soon as I finish this missive but you certainly reminded me why you won the singular distinction of being my only ignore member.

No - I meant FP. Sony G-90 - most other 9 inchers. Visit the CRT forum if you are really interested. A certain Mike Parker has modded an 8 inch Marquee to get 1080p but certainly stock most 8 inch CRTs don't do 1080p (Mine doesn't)

Well you are back to the cave now.

Rats - I had to uncheck my ignore list to see what you said. Will get you back on it as soon as I finish this missive but you certainly reminded me why you won the singular distinction of being my only ignore member.

No - I meant FP. Sony G-90 - most other 9 inchers. Visit the CRT forum if you are really interested. A certain Mike Parker has modded an 8 inch Marquee to get 1080p but certainly stock most 8 inch CRTs don't do 1080p (Mine doesn't)

Well you are back to the cave now.

Ralphie...
Please leave me in the cave. This is the "DIRECT (single tube) CRT" forum. Buh bye... :D

Hi,
I've had a 960 for a few years now and am looking at new sets. Does anyone have an opinion on the PQ difference between the 960 and the new Panasonic 42" Plasma (TH42PX80U)?
How does the 960 hold up against the newer plasma screens out there. I have looked in stores and my older eyes have a hard time telling without having them in the same room. I'm keeping the 960 but want a new set for another room.
Thanks for any input.
BFife.
(I will be running with DirecTV hd thru an HR21 box w/hdmi)

Hi,
I've had a 960 for a few years now and am looking at new sets. Does anyone have an opinion on the PQ difference between the 960 and the new Panasonic 42" Plasma (TH42PX80U)?
How does the 960 hold up against the newer plasma screens out there. I have looked in stores and my older eyes have a hard time telling without having them in the same room. I'm keeping the 960 but want a new set for another room.
Thanks for any input.
BFife.
(I will be running with DirecTV hd thru an HR21 box w/hdmi)

I don't understand, if you are keeping the 960, then why bother doing a comparison? If you like the plasma, buy it.

I don't understand, if you are keeping the 960, then why bother doing a comparison? If you like the plasma, buy it.
I'm asking about plasma vs 960 because I'm thinking if the plasma isnt that much better I would try to get another 960.

Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros. All I see when watching any other lcd or plasma technology display is lots and lots of digital noise, motion artifacts, and terrible colors. I would love to make the jump to flat panel as I'm looking for a large display for the theater room, but I just can't stand spending over 1k dollars on a TV that yields a worse picture than my current TV. Within a few years I'm wanting to transfer over my current CRT projector for a digital pj but in the mean time I'm looking for a good display (for cheap) that will satisfy the desire for a large ht display but also give an excellent picture. Once I find a good digital projector this TV would be placed into the living room and most likely only receive over the air TV so most of the time it would be standard def so standard definition/upscale performance is also key.

Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros. All I see when watching any other lcd or plasma technology display is lots and lots of digital noise, motion artifacts, and terrible colors. I would love to make the jump to flat panel as I'm looking for a large display for the theater room, but I just can't stand spending over 1k dollars on a TV that yields a worse picture than my current TV. Within a few years I'm wanting to transfer over my current CRT projector for a digital pj but in the mean time I'm looking for a good display (for cheap) that will satisfy the desire for a large ht display but also give an excellent picture. Once I find a good digital projector this TV would be placed into the living room and most likely only receive over the air TV so most of the time it would be standard def so standard definition/upscale performance is also key.

It's hard to judge plasma quality in a store in fact I was very hesitant when buying my current Pioneer 5080HD after seeing it on display, the only reason I bought it was a combination of AVS's plasma forum and the extremely positive reviews from various sources, I can tell you when you get a Kuro in your home and calibrated you'll see its possible for current plasma's to achieve even beyond CRT quality, especially when you factor in the much brighter / vibrant contrast output, combine that with its 50" screensize and deep black levels it actually makes it hard for me to watch my 34XBR960 anymore :(

I havent seen any motion artifacts or digital noise on the plasma that I didnt see on the CRT as well, Most of that comes from the source. Although Ive heard of motion artifact issues on current 120hz LCD's.

I agree with Mathesar as well. I have a 34XBR960 and a 720P Panny plasma. Although the 42" Panny is bigger and has a damn fine picture I prefer the 34XBR most of the time.
However my little Bro's 50" Kuro plasma is better by far than either the the 34XBR or the 42" Panny. Way better, amazingly better, and if I had an extra $4K laying around I would buy the Kuro in a heartbeat.

Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros.

At least you know why

At least you know why

Unfortunately I have never seen a Kuro outside of a store so I can't comment on these, but I have seen a Panasonic at a friends house and it looked just as bad as in the store. Maybe I'll just go ahead and get a Kuro and set it up properly myself and make the descision once I had it for a while at home. I'm tired of my small screen and I don't want to setup the crt projector anymore, too much of a pain. Are there any B&M stores that would allow an "in home trial" and not make me pay a 15% restocking fee should I return the item? I could go for the 50'' 720p model but there would be no way I could talk my wife into letting me buy the 1080p model. Overall would it be better for me to get the Kuro 720p model vs any other top of the line 1080p model from another manufacture?

I could go for the 50'' 720p model but there would be no way I could talk my wife into letting me buy the 1080p model. Overall would it be better for me to get the Kuro 720p model vs any other top of the line 1080p model from another manufacture?

Basically yes, other than the 1080P Kuro's the 768P 5080HD Kuro produces the best image quality on the market.

Home theater had a recent 2008 HDTV roundup and even tho the 5080HD is 768P it still placed #1: (All other tv's in the roundup are 1080P): http://www.hometheatermag.com/lcds/208hdface/index.html

They labeled it as "The new king." - http://www.hometheatermag.com/lcds/208hdface/index7.html

I'm looking for a good 960....preferably in or somewhere near the Richmond, VA area. I've scanned Craigslist and the closest one to me is in WV.
PM me if you want to get rid of one!
thanks

I picked up a 3 year old 960 with matching stand off Craigslist last week for a very good price. The seller had cared for it like a baby and I'm extremely pleased.

I had been looking at plasma monitors around town, admiring the slim lines and the brilliant displays. Still, something seemed...well...flat, dead, whatever, to me. Big pancake gobs of color, odd artifacts skittering around the fame, generally over all harsh PQ. I haven't looked at the Kuros...I can't pay that kind of money and I began to think about staying with a CRT. I've been watching a 19" NEC CT-1901A since 1984. It's still working great but my eyes are too old to stare at such a small set.

I have to say I'm really impressed with the 960. There is a quality, a depth, a 3rd dimension on this screen that just blows me away. Single tube CRT still has my heart.

I'm really interested to see how that Plasma compares to the XBR960, in terms of everything. (i seen this this Plasms in store and i was not impressed as impressed with it's live feeds such as ESPN's Sportcenter in HD..but itn may have not been calibrated correctly)

Forget the size difference, because if Sony released a 50" XBR960(but it would weight 400lbs, easily) ,all of us would be blown away even more.

That Kuro Plasma has a lower rated resolution then the XBR960(which is 1400*1080i, to be exact), and it's black levels seem near identicle.

So i'm wondering how the Kuro has the better picture quality?

I can easily see if it was rated at a full 1080p, but it's lower then the XBR960.

And it's not like the XBR960 lacks great color accuracy.

Also, is there any word about a 1080p Kuro in the near future?

Hey guys, let me ask you this one question:

Should i pick up a used 30" XS955 for our den/bedroom(XBR960 is in our LR now) from a local craigslist, or wait for a XBR960 to be available?

I don't want to drop $400 on the XS955, and then have a XBR960 available in a couple months for the same price. (

I thought the XS955 was exactly the same as the XBR960, however in the XS955 tread some mentioned it's PQ is not as detailed as the XBR960's.

So i'm even confused as why the XS955, which uses the same SFP tube, is not equal to the XBR960's PQ.

So guys should i pick up the XS955 or wait for a XBR960 to be available?

TIA

I'm really interested to see how that Plasma compares to the XBR960, in terms of everything. (i seen this this Plasms in store and i was not impressed as impressed with it's live feeds such as ESPN's Sportcenter in HD..but itn may have not been calibrated correctly)

Forget the size difference, because if Sony released a 50" XBR960(but it would weight 400lbs, easily) ,all of us would be blown away even more.

That Kuro Plasma has a lower rated resolution then the XBR960(which is 1400*1080i, to be exact), and it's black levels seem near identicle.

So i'm wondering how the Kuro has the better picture quality?

I can easily see if it was rated at a full 1080p, but it's lower then the XBR960.

And it's not like the XBR960 lacks great color accuracy.

Also, is there any word about a 1080p Kuro in the near future?

I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.

despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well.

There are other conveniences on the Kuro such as 4 HDMI inputs, user adjustable Gamma and various other picture adjustments, also the PureCinema mode smooths out camera pans on dvd's / blurays etc. beyond the fluidness you'd see even on a CRT, if you've ever seen the way 120hz LCD's handle motion this is sort of the same idea but not as pronounced.

I think the biggest wow factor is the size difference .. watching movies and playing video games on a 50" vs. 34" is a *huge* difference for the overall experience.

And yes they do make 1080P Kuro's such as the Pro-110FD (Link (http://www.hometheatermag.com/plasmadisplays/907kuro/index.html))

I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.

despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well.

There are other conveniences on the Kuro such as 4 HDMI inputs, user adjustable Gamma and various other picture adjustments, also the PureCinema mode smooths out camera pans on dvd's / blurays etc. beyond the fluidness you'd see even on a CRT, if you've ever seen the way 120hz LCD's handle motion this is sort of the same idea but not as pronounced.

I think the biggest wow factor is the size difference .. watching movies and playing video games on a 50" vs. 34" is a *huge* difference for the overall experience.

And yes they do make 1080P Kuro's such as the Pro-110FD (Link (http://www.hometheatermag.com/plasmadisplays/907kuro/index.html))

Great comparsion, thanks.

A couple questions if you may:

1)Is your XBR960 calibrated? (i have yet to have mine done, but some in this forum have said it looks dull before and sharper afterwards)

2)I think the key statement you said was:

"despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well."

I'm thinking the fact the pixels themselves are larger in general, shows off more detail, where for the XBR960 the pixels are smaller, and maybe it's just not as pronounced?

It would have been interesting to see a 50" XBR960 model to compare, with the same(near) pixel size.

3)The other key statment you said was:

"Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness"

I thinking the higher contrast with the same darks levels is showing off the great color detail, which is the key to any great picture quality.

4)I thought there was a 1080p model, but i'll have to wait a while for this Plasma, as it's cost is way out of my league.

lol..At least the XBR960 has the 2nd best PQ on the market, and that's damn good for a set i payed $1500 in late 05', and it's still one of the top couple HDTV's you can find.

Great comparision and since that Kuro has better PQ, and it's larger as well, it must be jaw dropping to view.

btw: How does the Kuro look with games? And ghosting/blurring or other flat panel problems? Or is it the equal of CRT's, in those qualities?

Hey guys, let me ask you this one question:

Should i pick up a used 30" XS955 for our den/bedroom(XBR960 is in our LR now) from a local craigslist, or wait for a XBR960 to be available?

I don't want to drop $400 on the XS955, and then have a XBR960 available in a couple months for the same price. (

I thought the XS955 was exactly the same as the XBR960, however in the XS955 tread some mentioned it's PQ is not as detailed as the XBR960's.

So i'm even confused as why the XS955, which uses the same SFP tube, is not equal to the XBR960's PQ.

So guys should i pick up the XS955 or wait for a XBR960 to be available?

TIA

Get the XS955. I have both with the 30" in the bedroom. PQ is outstanding on both with the 960 having the edge in HD but the 955 has the edge on SD.

Comparing the 5080 to the 960 is not the way to go, compare the 5010 to the 960 and the 5080 to the 970.

The color accuracy on the XBR, when calibrated, is absolutely great! When you go to Plasma, you get "BIGGER" along with perfect geometry and same resolution/focus/convergence across the entire screen. Color is not quite as accurate as the CRT. For a bedroom you can also consider the Panasonic 42" 1920x1080 Plasma (consumes much less real estate).

Perhaps you meant RP CRT?
Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?:confused:

Sony GDM-FW900 has an Optimal progressive scanned 8:5 resolution of 1920*1200.

Get the XS955. I have both with the 30" in the bedroom. PQ is outstanding on both with the 960 having the edge in HD but the 955 has the edge on SD.

Are you sure that the difference in PQ is not simply due to calibration and/or screen size?

HD should be identical between xbr960 and xs955 since they have the same guts when it comes to HD.

For SD, xbr960 should pull ahead slightly because it has more advanced DRC(I have more options to fine tune SD signal on my xbr 960 than on my xbr970). I believe that the DRC in xbr970 is identical to one in xs955. The difference in SD picture between two sets is rather small though, so it should not be a major criteria when choosing between models.

My 4yr old son is autistic and he would have scratched up this XBR960 in sec's if i was not directing him to not do so, just earlier today.

We're thinking it's actually best to put the XBR960 in the den, and make that a gaming/HT room of sorts. It makes sense since i can darken it up easier and it's enclosed for good 5.1 sound, for both gaming(X360 & PS3) and movie(DVD upscaled and BR) watching. And in that smaller room, it does feel like a 46"/50" is inside it..lol

Our son owns our LR, so i'm not even sure if putting in a $400 XS955 even makes sense, as i can find a cheaper $150 Philip's 30" used instead.

But for company and the occasional time we do use the LR at all(when he sleeps..lol), the XS955 seems like the right fit, and we can use another SFP HDTV, just incase of anything.

We just need to make sure he does not scratch it up or damage it.

Are you sure that the difference in PQ is not simply due to calibration and/or screen size?

HD should be identical between xbr960 and xs955 since they have the same guts when it comes to HD.

For SD, xbr960 should pull ahead slightly because it has more advanced DRC(I have more options to fine tune SD signal on my xbr 960 than on my xbr970). I believe that the DRC in xbr970 is identical to one in xs955. The difference in SD picture between two sets is rather small though, so it should not be a major criteria when choosing between models.

Both sets have been ISF calibrated, albeit a few years ago. Running Verizon Fios for SD/HD signal. Have a Denon 3910 and PS3 hooked up to the 960 and a Sony HTIB on the 955.

I agree they should be the same on HD but they are not when comparing an HD/SD signals from Fios. There can be several factors attributing to this including the 3 flights of steps I have to go up and down to compare the picture. :)

Comparing the 5080 to the 960 is not the way to go, compare the 5010 to the 960 and the 5080 to the 970.



I was comparing a 960 to 5080 because I own both sets.

btw: How does the Kuro look with games? And ghosting/blurring or other flat panel problems? Or is it the equal of CRT's, in those qualities?

Fantastic.. Gaming was my main concern when buying this set and I couldn't be happier, During the first couple months you could see some phosphor lag during motion but this effect has reduced over the last 5 months, I was told this would happen over time as the plasma broke in, You can still barely see this effect depending on the game or colors but it is very minimal and doesn't come off as 'blurring' like you'd see on an LCD.

One other concern of mine was input lag associated with flat panels, luckily the Kuro has a "game control" option which when enabled reduces input lag to negligible levels. Coming from a CRT I could feel a *slight* lag with this option disabled but when enabled I cant feel any lag whatsoever and the picture quality is unaffected from what I can tell.

As for burn in / image retention I havent experienced any issues here in fact I dont treat the plasma any different from my CRT here .. All three current consoles have there own burn in protection or screen savers that kick in after extended game pause etc. and top that off with the Kuro's own 'orbiter' feature which greatly reduces the chances of burnin on its own.

Both sets have been ISF calibrated, albeit a few years ago. Running Verizon Fios for SD/HD signal. Have a Denon 3910 and PS3 hooked up to the 960 and a Sony HTIB on the 955.

I agree they should be the same on HD but they are not when comparing an HD/SD signals from Fios. There can be several factors attributing to this including the 3 flights of steps I have to go up and down to compare the picture. :)

I see. I think that both xs955 and xbr960 are great sets when it comes to PQ, so people should not get stuck looking for xbr960 only and look for both models if they want SFP HDTV. Xbr 960 has few extra bells and whistles(twin view, more advanced DRC, and i.link), but these extra features would not be important to most people nowdays. :)

I thought the 960 was the only TV with SFP tube.

I thought the 960 was the only TV with SFP tube.

Nope, there is also xbr910 and previously mentioned xs955.

I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.

Talking about a more vivid and brighter picture, I remember once reading an article in a HD magazine that stated that too much brightness and/or contrast sacrifices the deeper color saturation, balanced contrast range between bright and dark areas and depth perception necessary for a properly defined high defintion picture. The article concluded that while it might look impressive, the picture won't actually appear the way it should be (i.e., like the way the contrast is adjusted too high in stores to appear more vivid).

Now, the other day I was floored by the brighter and sharper detail on a flat screen in my doctor's office (he was getting a direct HD feed from one of those medical channels seen in waiting rooms). I felt depressed thinking flat screen technology indeed surpassed that of the 960 CRT. When I got home I decided to experiment and adjusted my user settings (also changing from "pro" to the "standard" type picture) and was successful in reaching the equivalent brightness and sharpness levels seen earlier that day. But then I remembered the article and realized the author was right; what was seen in the office and now on my 960 lacked the rich color and more natural picture I was used to seeing.

My original user settings were achieved with HD test patterns (I've also done some service callibrations as per suggestions by others in this forum). The newer settings showed that picture and brightness were off and that the exact shade of blue (with the use of blue filter glasses) could not be achieved.

Since Plasma is almost equal to the dark level and color saturation of a CRT, it (of course) might be more a matter of individual preference rather than actual performance differences between the two models. But keep in mind that user adjustments not set properly can give an impressive but incorrect picture on any HD unit. This might be why you see such a difference between your two sets.

Talking about a more vivid and brighter picture, I remember once reading an article in a HD magazine that stated that too bright a picture might appear more vivid but at the sacrifice of deeper color saturation, wider contrast range between bright and dark areas and depth perception.



I know what your talking about ive seen it with just about any LCD, but its not an issue with Kuro plasma's, One of Kuro's strongest points is deep / rich color saturation thanks to excellent black levels.

"contrast ratio is 10,645:1. This is above and beyond any other flat panel on the market, by far. In fact, there are only a few displays of any type on the market that can boast this kind of contrast ratio without "dynamic" helpers such as irises or adjustable backlights, and all of them are front projectors.

Even the vaunted CRT would find it difficult to beat this beast, as CRTs had notoriously bad ANSI contrast measurements (although, admittedly, the best had an immeasurably low black level).

I know what your talking about ive seen it with just about any LCD, but its not an issue with Kuro plasma's, One of Kuro's strongest points is deep / rich color saturation thanks to excellent black levels.

"contrast ratio is 10,645:1. This is above and beyond any other flat panel on the market, by far. In fact, there are only a few displays of any type on the market that can boast this kind of contrast ratio without "dynamic" helpers such as irises or adjustable backlights, and all of them are front projectors.

Even the vaunted CRT would find it difficult to beat this beast, as CRTs had notoriously bad ANSI contrast measurements (although, admittedly, the best had an immeasurably low black level).

Hi,

Seems I edited my post as you were responding to it. :)

My thoughts were more about Plasma and CRT technology in general. Since their specifications so closely match each other, plus the fact that you are lucky enough to own both the reference standard CRT and Plasma sets, there should not be such a difference in vividness, even with a contrast ratio of 10,645:1 (there is only a limit to how much is necessary).

That's why I alluded to picture adjustments with too much color and contrast that create too vivid a picture that is impressive but not accurate (as seen in the stores). Do you have any HD test patterns to be sure both units are set to the proper levels of contrast, brightness, etc? Other than size, the picture quality should be similar (although a CRT provides more three-dimensional depth perception and the plasma a perfect geometry).

No doubt, you have the best of both worlds! Congrats.

Guys, here's one of the newest Panasonic Plasma's, i'm wondering how it compares to the XBR960 in overall PQ.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8740516&productCategoryId=abcat0101001&type=product&tab=1&id=1202648738106#productdetail

Your thoughts?

Are CRTs making a comeback? See attached.

http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/05/22/weak-economy-boosts-sales-of-picture-tube-tvs/

Guys,

What happens if my XBR960 just bites it(as i knock wood, that it does not), how much am i looking at to repair it? And more importantly, do repair shops still fix up these CRT's?

We don't have the money to buy say a Panasonic or Pioneer 1080p Plasma, at least not for a year or so.

The warranty is now(we bought it in nov 05') over, so this is worrying me now.

TIA

Guys,

What happens if my XBR960 just bites it(as i knock wood, that it does not), how much am i looking at to repair it? And more importantly, do repair shops still fix up these CRT's?

We don't have the money to buy say a Panasonic or Pioneer 1080p Plasma, at least not for a year or so.

The warranty is now(we bought it in nov 05') over, so this is worrying me now.

TIA

Make sure you unplug from wall for 10 minutes and then plug in. I lost all digital stations from cable and over the air. I called for warranty work and the lady on phone said to unhook plug. I LOL but did it and it worked. It resets the computer within (I guess)

Make sure you unplug from wall for 10 minutes and then plug in. I lost all digital stations from cable and over the air. I called for warranty work and the lady on phone said to unhook plug. I LOL but did it and it worked. It resets the computer within (I guess)


Same thing happened to me once or twice - red light would flash but then nothing. Unplugging it between five and ten minutes did the trick. Was told by a Sony service representative that the 960 acts like a computer and sometimes has to be "re-booted".

I didn't go for the extended warranty either -- the cost was a few hundred dollars for no more than two years and in the long run it would be more expensive paying for an extended warranty than the repair job itself.

I recently changed the black level output of my DVD player from "normal" to "darker" and re-adjusted the user settings in accordance with the THX Optomizer. The picture is now a little more crisper, however, with the 960's brightness level set higher (from 32 to 37 to compensate for the darker input) when the player is off, the black screen for the appropriate input is brighter than others. Am I correct this is simply due to the higher brightness setting?

Guys,

My main HDTV is the XBR960, and i'm wondering if anyone knows what the specs are for it's HDMI input.

Is it 1.2?

I'm guessing it cannot be 1.3, because that became a standard in June of 2006'.

One more thing, if i have product that outputs a feature of HDMI 1.3(say the PS3 with deep color), if the XBR960 has only a HDMI 1.2 port, then i won't see this feature.

Is that correct?

TIA

Phil

Guys,

My main HDTV is the XBR960, and i'm wondering if anyone knows what the specs are for it's HDMI input.

Is it 1.2?

I'm guessing it cannot be 1.3, because that became a standard in June of 2006'.

One more thing, if i have product that outputs a feature of HDMI 1.3(say the PS3 with deep color), if the XBR960 has only a HDMI 1.2 port, then i won't see this feature.

Is that correct?

TIA

PhilThe service manual lists the Sil9993CTG100 as the HDMI interface IC. The data sheet for this IC indicates HDMI 1.0.

The service manual lists the Sil9993CTG100 as the HDMI interface IC. The data sheet for this IC indicates HDMI 1.0.

Thank you very much.
(if you have the url, i'd reaslly appreciate if you listed it)

So let me get this correct, since it's HDMI 1.0, even if i hooked up a HDMI device that was V1.3 compliant, the XBR960 would not be able to handle any of it's added support features such as Deep Color.

Is this correct?

TIA

Someone in my area is offering me the XBR960 for $300. When asked when they purchased it, they said in 2004. Is there anything I should know about this early batch? I hounded them with questions and they said "I've never noticed anything that a normal person would know about." I asked so many questions he apparently thought I was a TV repair man.

Poor dude is thinking 'damn I just want to sell a tv'! :D

Poor dude is thinking 'damn I just want to sell a tv'! :D

You're probably right. But for $300 and a trip to NYC from New Haven, CT, I'd rather have $300 in my pocket than a high-end TV with excessive overscan, and whatever else can go wrong.

I work in the A/V installation business, and we have a Sony repair place who said they'd fix the well documented - won't turn on problem, for $30. But I'm just wondering what else can go wrong.

You're probably right. But for $300 and a trip to NYC from New Haven, CT, I'd rather have $300 in my pocket than a high-end TV with excessive overscan, and whatever else can go wrong.

I work in the A/V installation business, and we have a Sony repair place who said they'd fix the well documented - won't turn on problem, for $30. But I'm just wondering what else can go wrong.

Some of the earlier xbr960s can have cold tuner problem, but this is the only common problem that you need to be concerned about as far as I know.

I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.

The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.

I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.

And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.

I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not.

I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.

I never meant that cold tuner problem is the only thing that could go wrong... Like any electronic device, there are many potential things that could go wrong obviously. However, cold tuner and the TV not turning up(early batch only for cold tuner) are two of the most common problems with these sets as far as I know.


The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.

Increase in failure rate as time goes on would be true for majority electronic/mechanic devices though, and I am not exactly sure why xbr tag would negatively affect the reliability of the tv since it is just the tag that Sony uses for their upper lever HDTVs. Granted, I do not think that the build quality on XBRs is any better than or non XBRs. $1500 to fix the set is out the question when one can probably find another used one for $500 and under given enough persistence.


I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.


I am sorry to hear that. I have two Sony Trinitrons (both XBRs), and I am very happy with their performance, so it might be just bad luck.


And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.

Sure, covergence can be annoying. There are also geometry, overscan, focus problems on the sides of the screen, and so on. However, these are drawbacks of tube technology in general, so they are common to all tubes(especially big ones). I believe that if these things bother the viewer too much, then, another display technology will be a better choice. Granted, other technologies have their own drawbacks as well.


I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not.

Do you have any proof to back this up?

I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.

The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.

I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.

And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.

I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not.

But that's true of every CRT ever produced. It's no more of a problem with the 960 than with any other make or model CRT. We've just started noticing these defects in the HD era as we expect "perfect" picture quality.

As I posted a few pages back, I recently picked up a gently used 960 with matching stand off Craigslist for cheap. There is a slight issue at the edge of the frame where one corner dips down just a "skosh" but, truthfully, I really don't care. Mostly I'm too busy marveling at the old school film-like PQ , rich tones, and robust dimensionality to care if a corner isn't mathematically perfect. In my perverted way I even sort of enjoy the slight imperfection. Of course I paid a mere fraction of what these beauties went for just a few years ago...and had I forked over the MSRP at the time I might have felt very different.

Like another poster commented, if my 960 eventually goes south, I can just replace it with another 400.00 Craigslist buy. My last high end CRT lasted 22 years. If the 960 makes it half that long I'm happy and by then, I will be able to buy into a very high quality upgrade for a very modest price tag. My biggest worry is how the hell will I recycle this beast once it finally dies. I can just imagine these big tube TVs costing 200 for the local recyclers to carry off.

Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?

I just picked up a nice 960, but it didn't have the manual or the remote. I'm trying to switch the tuner to "antenna" from "cable", and can't seem to find it in the menus anywhere.
I don't have cable here...only OTA. What's the trick for getting it out of "cable" mode?
Thanks..

It's been a while but I think the VIDEO (or maybe it's TV/VIDEO) button cycles to the ANT. If not then I think there is an ANT. button on the remote. Anyway it's on the remote and you don't need to get into the menus.

Thanks....I got it. The "Channel Fix" was the problem!

Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?
I play MPEG2 videos on a Memory Stick on the 960, but regardless of the frame size in pixels, it seems like they all play in an area about 1/4 the size of the screen, so around 640 X 480 pixels. You can enlarge it to full screen, but it's very low-res. I've done this only with videos recorded on my digital still camera and then converted to MPEG2. I had to tweak the conversion settings to get the sound to play at all, but the sound is fine.

It's handy for watching Internet .flv Flash videos (YouTube, etc.) after conversion to MPEG2. Those are usually 320 X 160, but look OK on the small screen. For multiple chapter YouTube videos, play them as a slide show with no transition, and it works well.

In another thread/conversation someone mentioned that for my set (36kd955xs) the manual indicates compatibility of up to 1 gig for memory sticks - and he couldn't get a pro-duo 4 gig to work at all.

Do these work on your sets (bigger than 1 gig)? I went out and bought a 1 gig last week (they are getting harder and harder to find as almost all are bigger than this) so that I knew at least it worked on my set since I had tried one this size from a Sony Camera.

Just curious in case it works for you and I was willing to experiment with both bigger than 1 gig and also the higher speed memory sticks in my set (which is the same vintage as the 960 but some lesser features - although maybe the same memory stick software/hardware).

Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?

My earlier reply was in error: the 960 manual says you can only view MPEG1 files, not MPEG2. I use AVS Video Converter (~$25) to convert a Flash (low kbps stream) video with these settings:

Video: MPEG1, Bitrate 718 kbps, Framerate 25, Frame Original (usually 320 X 160); Audio: Bitrate 64 kbps

I use these settings to convert from a video from my Panasonic Limix digital camera (higher kbps stream):

Video: MPEG1, 4500 kbps, 30 fps, Original frame size (usually 640 X 480 or 848 X 480); Audio: 64 kbps

Both work fine, but only show at their size in the middle of the screen. I seem to remember trying a larger pixel frame size, but the size on the screen not being in bigger, so doubt full size DVD or HDTV videos would show full screen. Also, there seems to be limit to how fast it can feed images to the screen, as it can't take the newest high speed Memory Sticks. But it's great for watching downloaded Internet videos where they can be watched from the comfort of a TV viewing room.

I use AVS Video Converter (~$25) to convert a Flash (low kbps stream) video with these settings:

Video: MPEG1, Bitrate 718 kbps, Framerate 25, Frame Original (usually 320 X 160); Audio: Bitrate 64 kbps

Actually, the AVS Video Converter didn't do Flash files. See my earlier post for how to convert Flash videos, and the 1 GB Memory Stick I use:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13039684&highlight=video#post13039684

As a test, I just tried playing a 1280 X 960 MPEG1, 10,000 kbps file (converted from a 640 X 480 file from my digital camera) on Memory Stick. I selected "Enlarge", and it looked pretty good full screen. I don't have any HDTV 1920 X 1080 files to test, but maybe they would look good with the "Enlarge" setting in Memory Stick mode.

I'm selling my XBR960.

Set was purchased new in Nov 04, ISF'd in 05 after break-in, and has seen light but regular use since then.

Set is just about perfect in every way -- no scratches or other cosmetic issues, good convergence and geometry, no focus problems, no cold tuner, etc.

Extended warranty from Sony good through Nov 09.

Boston area.

PM me if interested.

:oHi does anybody have the original Landing Settings that came with the TV. I messed-up mine's I tried to fix them with the service manual but they just made things worst.

Your input is appreciated!:)

:oHi does anybody have the original Landing Settings that came with the TV.Here are mine, which are unaltered from how they came from the factory. Parenthetical values are the service manual defaults.

LT 0-255 158 (127)
LB 0-255 134 (127)
RT 0-255 77 (127)
RB 0-255 77 (127)
EWSP 0-15 5
ENSW 0,1 0
TESW 0,1 0
DHMT 0,1 0
LDVM 0-3 0
LVSW 0,1 0
LVPH 0-255 83 (127)
HSZO 0-15 0
SLNO 0-15 0
MPNO 0-15 0
PINO 0-15 0

Hey Dsperber, i noticed when checking my landing settings a while back on my xbr970 those geometry settings in there like pino, slno, Hszo, etc. Any ideas as to why they are there? do they differ from the normal geometry settings? and should those ones be left alone unless there is some sort of color impurity problem? I didn't notice any difference from the normal ones when changing.

Also you bring up a good point without mentioning it as to how the defaults in the service manual can be different from how each of OUR sets came from the factory. My landing settings are different then the defaults as well. So in actuality even the default settings may or may not help :( I guess most of the geometry settings follow the default, unless when setting up the screen they notice something really out of whack, they fix it. But with things like landing settings they go through and correct any color impurities they see. Just for comparison on my xbr970 my landing settings are.

LT-127
LB-127
RT-127
RB-151
EWSP-5
ENSW-0
DHMT-0
LDVM-0
LVSW-0
LVPH-65
HSZO-0
SLNO-0
MPNO-0
PINO-0

Jeez, I can't even imagine how good the 960's are, I just picked up a 30hs420 for 170 and it is blowing me away. I've had 6 or 7 HD sets this year, and this is ridiculous. I wish I had gotten a few when they came out.

Hey Dsperber, i noticed when checking my landing settings a while back on my xbr970 those geometry settings in there like pino, slno, Hszo, etc. Any ideas as to why they are there? do they differ from the normal geometry settings? and should those ones be left alone unless there is some sort of color impurity problem? No idea. I certainly didn't adjust any items in this group when tweaking the geometry on my 34XBR960.

I'm sure the pre-adjusted (from the factory) values which differ from so-called "service manual defaults" are the result of bench checking that goes on before the sets leave the factory. The service manual defaults are clearly nothing more than pre-loaded starting ROM values but since each picture tube (and associated electronics) is unique they obviously do a true test/adjustment at the factory for each and every set before boxing it up. The service manual defaults, for many items, have little to no relevance it seems based on how far away from service manual defaults they are.

Hello everyone. I'm horribly embarrassed about this! Please be gentle:)!

Service menu open, making recommended adjustments as per other posts, everything going smoothly. Then out of misread of service manual or shear animal stupidity, I do the 7 + 9 + enter thing, "Reset of system NVM data" (I take NVM to mean 'non-volatile memory'). At once, everything goes to hell, all reasonable deflection is lost and things go into wild overscan/pincushion. I am able to fight the HDMI input back to view-ability with crosshatch on a DVD and the default settings, so all well there on input 7. On all other inputs including RF, deflection is largely collapsed and color balance is lost, even though settings for 2170-D-1, 2, 3 are numerically correct (4x3 image in normal screen mode runs the entire width of the screen and is only about 1/2 vertical height, very green in low-lights). Also, oddly enough, HD reception via CablaCard is lost as well. So I screwed the pooch:eek:.

Recommendations? Any quick fix for this, or service call time?

Any help is well and truly appreciated.

Recommendations? Any quick fix for this, or service call time?Well, I suppose you can re-enter every item's original value from what must surely be your "pre-list"... namely that handwritten list you created early on, of all of your set's values before you first started tweaking in the service menu. Yes, that one, you know...

Sorry, couldn't resist. No honestly, my sympathies.

Each analog set is unique, and further characterized by individualization at the factory as they pre-test and pre-adjust before boxing it up for shipping. Just look at the back of the picture tube and you'll see factory-inserted magnets, which I guarantee look different on your 34XBR960 than on mine. This could be further complicated by the onsite "magnet job" I had done by a Sony tech during two multi-hour sessions occurring shortly after I received my set four years ago (to improve what I felt were defective factory-provided initial conditions).

In other words, trying to apply settings from someone else's set is not guaranteed to match the unique analog characteristics of your set, not to mention your viewing tastes or viewing/tweaking room conditions.

That having been said, since we know that the "service manual defaults" are certainly not how the sets really arrive, and presumably not having all of YOUR set's initial values documented (so that you can return to them now), the best I can offer is my own set's "tweaked" values. This represents everything I've done/changed or simply left as it was.

I don't fully anticipate that my set's values will make your set look like my set, but in light of the current situation I don't know if it can hurt to at least try mine... or at least to start from mine and then continue to adjust from there. Up to you.

Anyway, here it is. No guarantees it will work for you (remember, my geometry/convergence settings reflect the onsite "magnet job" I received) but good luck.

If it doesn't work out, call Sony and ask for a service call from an authorized provider near you (and pray).

Well, I suppose you can re-enter every item's original value from what must surely be your "pre-list"... namely that handwritten list you created early on, of all of your set's values before you first started tweaking in the service menu. Yes, that one, you know...


But here's the thing: I did write them down. That's how I was able to bring the HDMI input back. That's the only one I was tweaking, because out of the box is was considerably over-scanned. The thing is, none of the other inputs follow. I should think that deflection is the same throughout, that is, one setting for all. I guess I'm wrong about that ! Is there is a starting point that I am not getting?

No idea. I certainly didn't adjust any items in this group when tweaking the geometry on my 34XBR960.

I'm sure the pre-adjusted (from the factory) values which differ from so-called "service manual defaults" are the result of bench checking that goes on before the sets leave the factory. The service manual defaults are clearly nothing more than pre-loaded starting ROM values but since each picture tube (and associated electronics) is unique they obviously do a true test/adjustment at the factory for each and every set before boxing it up. The service manual defaults, for many items, have little to no relevance it seems based on how far away from service manual defaults they are.

I also stuck to the codes listed in section four (pages 15 - 23) of the service manual. Felt if they didn't appear there, the other codes were not geared toward geomitry settings. FYI, mine for the FULL setting are:

HCENT 43
HPOS 24
HSIZ 45
HTPZ 0
LANG 20
LBOW 41
LCP 45
MPIN 10
PIN 20
PPHA 21
SCRL 29
SLIN 9
UPC 38
VANG 33
VBOW 28
VCEN 16
VLIN 5
VPIN 20
VPOS 27
VSCO 7
VSIZ 25

Please note I did not use the 960's internal monoscope or cross-hatch patterns but one retained on my DVR from the old INHD. With the 960's internal test patterns, the settings were so different from that of the INHD it made the picture appear warped worse than an old 33-1/3 LP left in the sunlight. So IMHO, it's better to use an external source for proper geometric settings.

For comparison, here are my settings:

HCENT 43 33
HPOS 24 16
HSIZ 45 36
HTPZ 0 4
LANG 20 25
LBOW 41 35
LCP 45 42
MPIN 10 10
PIN 20 10
PPHA 21 31
SCRL 29 31
SLIN 9 5
UPC 38 UCP?? 32
VANG 33 25
VBOW 28 29
VCEN 16 24
VLIN 5 6
VPIN 20 21
VPOS 27 27
VSCO 7 7
VSIZ 25 34

FWIW. Done without any test gear or other external inputs.

For comparison, here are my settings:

HCENT 43 33
HPOS 24 16
HSIZ 45 36
HTPZ 0 4
LANG 20 25
LBOW 41 35
LCP 45 42
MPIN 10 10
PIN 20 10
PPHA 21 31
SCRL 29 31
SLIN 9 5
UPC 38 UCP?? 32
VANG 33 25
VBOW 28 29
VCEN 16 24
VLIN 5 6
VPIN 20 21
VPOS 27 27
VSCO 7 7
VSIZ 25 34

FWIW. Done without any test gear or other external inputs.

Hi Ennui,

Well, at least we match on MPIN :).

I had run off the service codes and changed some for basic sharpness (not those assigned to the center, corners, etc that others talk about under the service manual forum) and by changing the factory pre-sets (some of which were different than the default settings listed on Sony's spreadsheet) also improved picture quality. They are:

2170P-3 #0 SYSM:

Special Sharpness. 0/1=peaky boost, 2=broad boost, 3=flat. The default is supposed to be at 3 (1080i) and 2 (480p) but mine was 2 on both. Resetting both to 3 (flat) greatly reduced the graininess found when increasing the user sharpness and clear edge settings.

2107P-3 #6 SHOF:

Sharpness. Default for 1080i and 480p is 0, with my factory settings at 3 (1080i) and 0 (480p). Kept both at 3.

2107P-3 #10 LTV

Edge Enhancement. 0=off. The defaults were 3 (1080i) and 0 (480p) with both my factory settings at 0. Reset both to 3.

After these changes I went back to the user menu and found I had to slightly reduce the picture and brightness settings for both video 7 and 5 while being able to increase sharpness for both without the picture becoming harsh (edge enhancements remained medium for HD and high for DVD). Again, I had 1080i and 480p test patterns to refer to. Interestingly, the shade of blue on the test patterns (using blue-filter glasses) did not require change and were actually more even than before.

FYI - my color decoder settings had also been changed based on an earlier poster's recommendations. They are:

RYR 14 (factory set at 8)
RYB 15 (factory set at 9)
GRY 6 (factory set at 9)
GYB 4 (factory set at 6)

Hope this information helps.

- Joe

I'm selling my XBR960.

Set was purchased new in Nov 04, ISF'd in 05 after break-in, and has seen light but regular use since then.

Set is just about perfect in every way -- no scratches or other cosmetic issues, good convergence and geometry, no focus problems, no cold tuner, etc.

Extended warranty from Sony good through Nov 09.

Boston area.

PM me if interested.

It amazes me to even consider this, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to have to just throw this set away...no bites on this thread or craigslist. I can't keep it -- no place to put it! :(

Well what are you asking for it? Perhaps it's too much?!?

Well what are you asking for it? Perhaps it's too much?!?

$395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.

$395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.

For ISF calibrated set, it is pretty good deal imo. I would just wait a bit more. Someone should buy it eventually.

$395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.

That seems like a very good deal. I have a deal with another gentleman to buy his XBR960 for $600 later this summer. Granted it includes delivery and is ISF calibrated, but still your asking price is very reasonable.

I've had my set for some time now and something has just started to happen tonight that I haven't encountered before. The upper left hand corner, where the input is displayed (VIDEO 5 SATELLITE, VIDEO 7 DVD, etc...) the display remains there and does not vanish..... any ideas on how to have this disappear?

Hopefully it's something minor.

Thank you,
Kevin

I've had my set for some time now and something has just started to happen tonight that I haven't encountered before. The upper left hand corner, where the input is displayed (VIDEO 5 SATELLITE, VIDEO 7 DVD, etc...) the display remains there and does not vanish..... any ideas on how to have this disappear?

Hopefully it's something minor.

Thank you,
Kevin

My video input display also seems to be staying on longer than before but pressing the remote's display button instantly removes it.

$395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.

That's a great price. Folks in your neck of the woods must not know anything about great TVs.

That is a good price. Where I live, in the NW, I watched two 960s go for around 500-600 back in May, not calibrated or with stands, before I pulled the trigger on yet a third one. I found one a little less than those but still more than what you are asking. Still, it took a while for them to sell. Both were on ebay for a week and then both went to craigslist where they finally sold. My biggest concern was how I was going to pick the set up, transport it and reset it up in my place.

My video input display also seems to be staying on longer than before but pressing the remote's display button instantly removes it.


Thanks for the help. Pressing the remote's "display" button removed the video input display from the 960's upper left hand corner.

If anyone in St.Louis, Mo or the surrounding area is looking for a XBR960N w/matching stand for a very nice price send me a pm. The set has also been I.S.F calibrated. This is a pick up only deal. The set was purchased in 2006.

Found this interesting.

Was dubbing some films I had earlier recorded on VHS from Turner Classic Movies onto DVD (VHS connected directly to DVD recorder bypassing the 960). These are rare silent and early sound classics that have not been shown on TCM since and not available on DVD.

Those that were originally recorded when I switched to Cablevision of New York were fine. However, the ones taped before that were from a small local Satellite/Cable company which had video noise problems caused by the provider's scrambler. This was not apparent on the broadcast itself and the copies were still tolerable. Before dubbing these onto DVD I could see the noise appearing much worse than on my old, analog set and the picture itself was waving.

I assumed this meant the tapes weren't watchable at all, however, after reconnecting the VHS player to the 960 the noise was mostly cleared up and the waviness gone. Do you think this was because the limited VHS resolution was being output at 480p via component rather than composite to the 960?