Does the 960 output 5.1? When I hooked up an optical cable directly from my 960 to my Yamaha receiver audio only came out in 2.0. Both video and audio was fed to the set via HDMI from a DVR.Can't say for sure. At the current moment I cannot connect my new DCX3400 DVR to my Yamaha RX-V863 receiver (and then on to my 960) using HDMI, because of serious HDMI-related issues in the 22.31 firmware of the DVR. This promises to be fixed on October 4 when firmware 22.37 gets rolled out (presumably).

But when I was using HDMI from DVR to receiver and then on to 960 via a second HDMI cable, with my previous DCH3416, I did not send digital audio via optical out from the 960 to my receiver for playing (expecting it to be the original 5.1 audio passed up to the 960 via HDMI from the DVR and then through the receiver).

Instead, I sent (a) digital video from DVR to receiver via HDMI (ignoring the audio in the receiver) and then from receiver to 960 via HDMI, and also (b) digital audio from DVR directly to receiver via optical. I had the I/O assignment for "DVR" on the Yamaha configured accordingly to handle HDMI input for video-only and optical input for audio. I had no digital audio output from the 960 involved, so I couldn't tell you if 5.1 was actually "passed through" from DVR to 960 via HDMI and then out the optical digital audio of the 960. I suspect it wouldn't have been, because I suspect it wasn't even sent to the 960 as 5.1.

I know that SA8300 DVR boxes won't deliver 5.1 digital audio via HDMI to an HDTV that declines to accept 5.1 (as most do, 960 probably included) because they don't have the audio circuitry or Dolby decoder or sufficient speakers. And this affects the optical digital audio output as well, preventing 5.1 over optical to the receiver. Bad. Solution for friends with SA8300 is to use HDMI/DVI cable/adapter so that the SA8300 avoids worrying about 5.1 over HDMI, and now sends 5.1 out over optical.

In fact, that's the real reason why I specifically deliver digital audio optically direct from DVR to receiver even with my Motorola DVRs and ignore digital audio from HDMI in my Yamaha receiver setup... just in case. I suspect the receiver also asks the 960 if it can accept DD5.1, which I suspect it can't (again, no Dolby decoder present, nor proper audio circuitry).

But I'm sure that using the OTA ATSC tuner in the 960 that the optical digital audio output of the 960 would definitely be 5.1 if the source channel is broadcasting in 5.1.

I getnDolby Digital 5.1 channel out to receiver on my 36KD955xs (cable card input); I can't imagine the 960 is less capable but mine in the basement doesn't have a receiver

Same thing with my 8300 DVR set-up - picture and audio fed to the 960 via HDMI and 5.1 audio output from the DVR directly to my Yamaha via optical cable. The hassle is changing the DVR's audio menu from HDMI to Dolby Digital and vice versa when switching between the 960's speakers and my 6.1 audio system (if I forget to do so, my wife could call me at work saying no sound is coming out of the TV).

One way to resolve this issue is connecting RCA cables to the 960's audio input for video seven enabling the DVR to remain at Dolby Digital and wide range. Problem is, 2.0 audio becomes lower in volume - not so bad for listening through the 960 but too big a drop in audio for dubbing onto DVD via the "out to VCR" feature.

I just finished moving and for some reason my tv won't display blue through the standard inputs. The HD inputs work perfectly but whenever I use something with composite cables the blues come out gray. The television was not dropped during the move. Can anyone give me some suggestions to try fixing the tv?

I just finished moving and for some reason my tv won't display blue through the standard inputs. The HD inputs work perfectly but whenever I use something with composite cables the blues come out gray. The television was not dropped during the move. Can anyone give me some suggestions to try fixing the tv?
ISF calibration maybe. Just a guess.

I took off the back of the tv and I don't see any loose cables. Sony said that they thought that the video card (I think he may have called it something else) may have become unseated properly during the move. I don't see anything wrong with the card or any of the cables connected to any of the cards. I'm going to have a repair person come take a look at it unless someone on here has a suggestion.

Hello everyone, I apologize in advance if someone has already posted on this issue, but I did not find the topic in this thread. Basically, tomorrow I have Comcast coming for a CableCARD installation in my 960, but I am wondering if all channels will output digital audio to my receiver (previously, I had an HD DVR hooked up to the 960 that output all channels to digital audio - most 2 channel, some 5.1). This is a deal-breaker for me, because I want to use my stereo receiver for all audio, and not have to flip back and forth between audio on the TV set and the receiver.

The reason I ask is that I hooked up the cable line directly into the TV, and only the digital channels are outputting digital audio through the Toslink connection. When I switch to a standard def channel (non digital/HD) the audio does not go through the toslink connection.

I hope this makes sense and I am not rambling. I apologize if this doesn't make sense. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

Chris
I have been using a Comcast cable card in my set since I got it 4 years ago and have had no problem receiving 5.1 signals when Comcast sends them out. The optical output from the set runs to my receiver. Both OTA and cable signals can change from 5.1 to 2.0 depending on the program or commercial being broadcast. The audio always sounds better OTA, because I'm told it is not compressed.

If anyone has a 960 in the Monterey, CA area that they are wanting to part with, please PM me.

Hi,

Can someone help me figure this out??

I just bought a second XBR960 and it makes it clear that my first Xbr960n has some sort of light output problem via HDMI.

Is there a setting in the SM somewhere that caps the light output for HDMI?

I have SPIC set to 15(in the SM) and Picture(in the user menu) set to 31 on both sets, yet the new 960 is significantly brighter. I even had to set the YCON on the old 960n to 1 as an attempt to increase brightness, but the new 960's white levels are too high with it at 1.

What is causing this difference?? Is it the fact that one is a 960n? From what I can tell, it's only the HDMI input that is suffering from this problem. What the heck, man?

Just a really inconsequential item here... that might be of use to some people.

I came home today to discover that my cleaning girl had for some reason decided to "wipe down" the screen of my XBR960. HORRORS!

I don't know what she did it with, but I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex. I wouldn't be surprised if she was dusting all around, and decided to "dust off my screen" with the same cloth. HORRORS!

Anyway, I kept my composure and ran to get the can of trusty "oil free, wax free, non-streaking" screen cleaner (ingredients unknown) I use for my computer monitors. It works great on them so hopefully it would also work great on the 960's screen.

Did it in two sections, using a 100% cotton T-shirt rag to wipe it down, and then a complete wipe again to be sure.

And, sure enough, like magic, absolutely 100% perfectly clean and clear and streak-free, my 960's screen has been returned to mint condition.

Case closed.


So, just in the event you find yourself wanting to perform a similar function on your own 960, this item is just a house-brand Office Depot item labeled strangely enough, "Screen Cleaner, non-streaking".

UPC code: 0-79086 30236-0

Can't recommend this item highly enough, for 960 screens as well as computer display screens (anti-glare, notebook, CRT's and LCD's).

Just a really inconsequential item here... that might be of use to some people.

I came home today to discover that my cleaning girl had for some reason decided to "wipe down" the screen of my XBR960. HORRORS!

I don't know what she did it with, but I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex. I wouldn't be surprised if she was dusting all around, and decided to "dust off my screen" with the same cloth. HORRORS!

Anyway, I kept my composure and ran to get the can of trusty "oil free, wax free, non-streaking" screen cleaner (ingredients unknown) I use for my computer monitors. It works great on them so hopefully it would also work great on the 960's screen.

Did it in two sections, using a 100% cotton T-shirt rag to wipe it down, and then a complete wipe again to be sure.

And, sure enough, like magic, absolutely 100% perfectly clean and clear and streak-free, my 960's screen has been returned to mint condition.

Case closed.


So, just in the event you find yourself wanting to perform a similar function on your own 960, this item is just a house-brand Office Depot item labeled strangely enough, "Screen Cleaner, non-streaking".

UPC code: 0-79086 30236-0

Can't recommend this item highly enough, for 960 screens as well as computer display screens (anti-glare, notebook, CRT's and LCD's).

As long as it's not "anti-static." Or at least I remember the manual to my FW900 CRT said anti-static formulations could scratch...

I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex.

Hi Dsperber,

You are very, very lucky that all you had were streaks on the screen. Occasionally I used something like Windex on my 960 because water also often left streaks. But the last time it took off a small part of the 960's anti-glare coating which, to this day, I kick myself for causing.

Fortunately, it's only about an inch and a half in length and half-inch wide toward the upper left-hand side and not noticable except from a certain viewing angle. And when seen, it appears as nothing more than natural glare reflected off the screen with no picture distortion.

But to play it safe, I'm sticking with soft paper-towels damped in cold water followed by dry paper towels to avoid streaks and spots.

But to play it safe, I'm sticking with soft paper-towels damped in cold water followed by dry paper towels to avoid streaks and spots."Soft" paper towels? They're primarily a wood product and I would think using this kind of "cloth" would run the risk of scratching the screen's surface. Of course maybe wetting the paper towel for the first step would saturate it rendering it essentially harmless, but using the dry paper towel for the second step would seem kind of risky.

Except for the "Job Squad" brand that I have used forever because I like it's softness, every other paper towel I've ever tried has been stiff and had a rough surface. Maybe "Viva" is kind of similar to "Job Squad" in softness, because they're now both made by the same corporate giant conglomerate.

But personally I'm going to stick with a 100% soft cotton clean T-shirt rag for addressing screen cleaning needs, both for occasional dusting-only and possibly for the very rare actual screen cleaning such as I was forced into this week (along with the Office Depot anti-streaking screen cleaner, nothing else).

Fortunately, my 960's screen seems to have escaped unscathed. No indications whatsoever of anything at all removed from the anti-glare surface.

"Soft" paper towels? They're primarily a wood product and I would think using this kind of "cloth" would run the risk of scratching the screen's surface. Of course maybe wetting the paper towel for the first step would saturate it rendering it essentially harmless, but using the dry paper towel for the second step would seem kind of risky.

Except for the "Job Squad" brand that I have used forever because I like it's softness, every other paper towel I've ever tried has been stiff and had a rough surface. Maybe "Viva" is kind of similar to "Job Squad" in softness, because they're now both made by the same corporate giant conglomerate.

But personally I'm going to stick with a 100% soft cotton clean T-shirt rag for addressing screen cleaning needs, both for occasional dusting-only and possibly for the very rare actual screen cleaning such as I was forced into this week (along with the Office Depot anti-streaking screen cleaner, nothing else).

Fortunately, my 960's screen seems to have escaped unscathed. No indications whatsoever of anything at all removed from the anti-glare surface.

Only thing is, the screen is already wet when the dry paper towel is applied and that one becomes wet in the process as well. But you do have a point and maybe it wasn't just the windex but the paper towel used to dry it down that time too.

I always dust the screen with a soft rag but have also gently washed it with cold water it every two weeks or so the past four years which keeps it pristinely clean. I never had a problem with paper towels except that one time with the Windex. Found damped, t-shirt-type rags left not only streaks but watermarks and even a bit of lint on the screen but will give it another try to play it safe.

I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. I thought it was just the 360 failing on me. I hooked up the DVR and the DVD player and none of them would give sound via HDMI. I made sure that everything was set to deliver audio via HDMI. Nothing works. Even tried different HDMI cables that work on another TV set. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.

I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.Not that it's guaranteed to fix anything, but have you pulled the 960 power cord from the wall? Sometimes this cold power-on reset kicks things back into operation.

I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. I thought it was just the 360 failing on me. I hooked up the DVR and the DVD player and none of them would give sound via HDMI. I made sure that everything was set to deliver audio via HDMI. Nothing works. Even tried different HDMI cables that work on another TV set. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.

As a matter of routine I unplug my 960 about once a month to avoid things like this and also to be sure that the degauser kicks in completely.

Not that it's guaranteed to fix anything, but have you pulled the 960 power cord from the wall? Sometimes this cold power-on reset kicks things back into operation.

I would like tothank all of you for actually pulling the power cord. I did that immediately after I posted. Pulled up Newegg andBest Buy website and started looking at new sets while I ate breakfast. Turned it on to watch a bit of cable and there was sound. Then I noticed the input wasthe HDMI input :D.

Contemplating selling my 960. Here are the details:
-Original owner, bought new in August 2004. Have all reciepts+manual and remote.
-Excellent condition, never had a single problem with it. Limited weekend use with just video games and HD DVD/Blu Ray. Always covered when not in use and run through a surge protector when in use and unplugged when not in use. Only used by myself and never any kids or pets around it.
-Anti-glare guard removed and ISF calibrated twice with geometry during ownership by ChadB. Have a Word document of the most recent one from January of this year.
-Matching Sony stand included.

I am located in Lakewood, NJ 08701. $600 Send me a PM.

Not trying to crap on your post I'm just curious about the removal of the anti-glare? I did that to my PC monitor which is the cousin of the 960 (the fw900), and the black levels went WAY up. It now looks like a CRT/LCD hybrid it's so freakin bright. I removed mine because it had so many scratches on it.

good luck Darkie

I can't locate the thread replying to mine

I had to ditch my 960 a whlie back; got a 4100 and now a 5100 SONY 46"

NEVER had a chance to calibrate my 960...where I live ;-(

These sets are OK but I miss my 960 ;-0

replied below...

Not trying to crap on your post I'm just curious about the removal of the anti-glare? I did that to my PC monitor which is the cousin of the 960 (the fw900), and the black levels went WAY up. It now looks like a CRT/LCD hybrid it's so freakin bright. I removed mine because it had so many scratches on it.

Well, the overall brightness of the picture increased as expected, but not a whole lot where I would say it was way off. The blacks still looked inky to me, but with a touch more shadow detail. The picture was slightly sharper as well. I had Chad calibrate it a few days later just to have it accurate. It was almost 3 years since he last calibrated it and my black levels actually had droped a bit where he had to bring them up. There was nothing wrong with mine, but I had a chance to see one earlier w/o the glare filter and I was impressed with how it looked.

Well, the overall brightness of the picture increased as expected, but not a whole lot where I would say it was way off. The blacks still looked inky to me, but with a touch more shadow detail. The picture was slightly sharper as well. I had Chad calibrate it a few days later just to have it accurate. It was almost 3 years since he last calibrated it and my black levels actually had droped a bit where he had to bring them up. There was nothing wrong with mine, but I had a chance to see one earlier w/o the glare filter and I was impressed with how it looked.

Since the 960 has an anti-glare coating and the 960N has an internal glare filter, has thre been an increase in glare since your set now has neither?

Yes, there is an increase in glare. I have good light control where it is, so it's not a problem. It loses that purple-ish tint when turned off, just like my Sony 24" FS120.

Have owned my XBR960 for almost 3 yrs.(It's a 2006 model). Just recently got a HD package with my Charter TV service. When I try to compare pictures between Standard Definition (SD) & High Definition (HD) on a HD channel (HBO, Showtime, Animal Planet, etc.) I can't tell much of a difference in picture quality. Is this TV HD ready or do I need to buy something to make it produce HD quality pictures? I had a friend stop by to review the Owners Manual, specs., wiring hook-up, etc. and he says he's not certain that my TV is HD ready. Am I doing something wrong or just what exactly do I need to do to get my XBR to display HD quality pictures? Any help or advice you can provide to this "newbie" will be appreciated. Thanx.

Certainly, the TV is HD ready.

How do you have your cable box connected to the 960? Should be either HDMI or component.

Have owned my XBR960 for almost 3 yrs.(It's a 2006 model). Just recently got a HD package with my Charter TV service. When I try to compare pictures between Standard Definition (SD) & High Definition (HD) on a HD channel (HBO, Showtime, Animal Planet, etc.) I can't tell much of a difference in picture quality. Am I doing something wrongYes, you must be doing something wrong.

The Charter cable box (probably a Scientific Atlanta SA8300, but you need to tell us specifically what you have) has multiple video output connectors, for connection to a variety of possible TVs. HD-quality pictures MUST use either (a) component video connection to INPUT5/6 on the XBR960, or (b) DVI/HDMI connection to INPUT7 on the XBR960. You can even use the firewire (1394) connection from cable box to the XBR960's firewire input and get HD-quality picture, if your cable box supports it, but I do not recommend that firewire approach since the cable box graphics (i.e. Guide, menus, etc.) are not propagated on the firewire output.

If you use either of the other two possible video outputs from the cable box to the XBR960 (i.e. composite or S-video, to INPUT1/3 of the XBR960) then you are NOT watching 720p/1080i HD-quality picture. You are watching 480i picture. And if you are tuned to an HD channel and watching it on INPUT1/3 composite/S-video (by setting your cable box to do this) then you have down-converted your HD 720p/1080i channel content for 480i presentation: NOT HD.

So, in summary, component from cable box to INPUT5/6 of the XBR960, or DVI/HDMI from cable box to INPUT7 of the XBR960, and SA8300 (or whatever) configured to deliver 720p/1080i to the TV. Now you'll actually be watching the HD-quality picture from Charter's HD channels on your XBR960. (Of course, you must choose INPUT 5/6/7 on the XBR960 to be watching the HD source content)

Using any other connection method to INPUT1/3, or configuring your cable box so that it does NOT deliver 720p/1080i out of component/HDMI, and you're NOT watching HD picture. But this is not the fault of the XBR960. The fault lies with your connections and/or cable box video setup.

. Is this TV HD ready or do I need to buy something to make it produce HD quality pictures? I had a friend stop by to review the Owners Manual, specs., wiring hook-up, etc. and he says he's not certain that my TV is HD ready. Am I doing something wrong or just what exactly do I need to do to get my XBR to display HD quality pictures? Any help or advice you can provide to this "newbie" will be appreciated. Thanx.

The tv is HD ready but requires a cable card (free) from your cable provider to get the premium channels

Plus you will need a scheduled visit from a technician as they typically don't allow you to do the cable card setup

Alternately you can rent an HD cable box as others have mentioned

The local broadcast channels should be available in clear HD (QAM) on the cable input - but sometimes cable operators provide the SD versus HD version of the local broadcast

The tv is HD ready but requires a cable card (free) from your cable provider to get the premium channelsIs this actually correct? Cable cards are free? I thought they were a few bucks a month, but I may be wrong.

Anyway, it's certainly true that the minimal information provided in the OP regarding some kind of "HD package" obtained from Charter definitely does not define whether or not a cable box and/or DVR was part of the story. I actually had not even considered the cable card alternative.

Nevertheless, the fact that there is some mention of contrasting SD vs. "HD channels" (e.g. premiums like HBO and SHO, and non-premiums like APL-HD vs. APL-SD) suggests that whatever the arrangement (cable card or STB/DVR) he must have the proper equipment already installed... else it would be impossible to even tune to one of these "HD channels", as almost universally now it is only the OTA local network HD channels which can be tuned "in the clear".

I still think it must be a cabling story from what I'm guessing must be an STB/DVR to the 960, rather than a cable card configuration with coax direct to the 960. If this were the case, and a true HD channel tuned to, the picture would have to be presented in HD by the 960... and this would easily be differentiated from the SD version of the same channel.

pharmerphil, can you provide some additional info?

Phil,

I agree with the others that you probably are not connected to video six or seven.

The only other possible answer is that your cable system uses a video mapping system where the HD feed automatically comes on, even if one had selected a channel allocated for the SD transmission instead. Does your picture quality in general now seem like night and day compared to the old box? If so, it might be the mapping system and that's why you can't tell any difference.

Thanks to all of you that have tried to help me thusfar. Here's some info. that may be pertinent:
The Charter Receiver/Box is a Motorola, HD Dual Tuner, DVR, Model #DCH 6416. I don't really see a slot/place for a Cable Card & I do not have such a card.
The wiring from my TV to the receiver is a thick, white, 5 strand ribbon wire.
3 wires labeled video And 2 labeled audio are connected to the back of the receiver. There are 4 ports/connectors on the back of the receiver that are empty/unconnected and they are the HDMI, Ethernet, USB, & Sata.

Just to make sure that it wasn't just my old eyes that couldn't see any difference I've had 3 other younger friends make a comparison between SD & HD channels and they too said it was barely noticeable, if any at all.
If there is any other info. I can provide that would be helpful, please advise. Sorry that I'm not more versed on TV's and able to provide more intelligent input. Thanks again.

The 5 wire ribbon wire IS connected at the back of the 960 to Video #5 HD/DVD IN. My "hook-up" was done by a Charter Service Rep, not myself.

The 5 wire ribbon wire IS connected at the back of the 960 to Video #5 HD/DVD IN. My "hook-up" was done by a Charter Service Rep, not myself.

Phil,

There's the problem -- the Charter Service Representative hooked it up to the wrong input. Video five is not meant for high definition. Re-connect the cables to video six and you'll see the difference.

Yep, Joseph, switched the ribbon wires over to #6 and saw the improvement in sharpness, clarity, "crispness", immediately. I certainly appreciate yours, and everyone elses, prompt responses and helpful info. I've heard great things about AVS and the knowledge & experience of the "posters" at their site. For a novice such as myself I would never have figured out what to do (and it was so easy).
By the way, I love my XBR960! Got friends with 40 to 60 inch LCD's & Plasma's but I think my picture blows theirs away. Now that I got the HD picture to work it's even more awesome!
Thanks again to every one of you fellow XBR960 fans.

Is this actually correct? Cable cards are free? I thought they were a few bucks a month, but I may be wrong.

....
Nevertheless, the fact that there is some mention of contrasting SD vs. "HD channels" (e.g. premiums like HBO and SHO, and non-premiums like APL-HD vs. APL-SD) suggests that whatever the arrangement (cable card or STB/DVR) he must have the proper equipment already installed... else it would be impossible to even tune to one of these "HD channels", as almost universally now it is only the OTA local network HD channels which can be tuned "in the clear".



I haven't looked at my bill in a while - but at least initially there was no rental fee for either of my cable cards but there was a $2 per "outlet" charge (which also applied to my HD DVR in addition to themonthly rental fee).

On the SD/HD comment I was thinking it could have been a clear QAM situation. The OP should clarify his equipment/cabling as you noted.

However your point above on clear QAM is not correct, at least in my case as I am getting several hundred clear as evidenced on my HD Homerun tuner (can't tell on the Sonys due to the cable card decoding encrypted). These include several HD premiums such as UHD. Probably related to the cable digital realignment and with the ongoing effort to role out free digital boxes for the non-HD customers and recover analog bandwidth.

Long point is that I was thinking he was probably seeing some of those channels (eg SD HBO and STarz etc) on a direct cable connection, else as you note the resolution difference would have been obvious - but only a response from OP can clarify.

(EDIt - I see he did clarify that he has a cable box so my points above were not the case)

However my point on the free digital boxes is quite applicable for all of us with QAM tuners - you will be able to get the same set of channels that the cable provider is affording its customers with those boxes - typically this is the basic cable level - maybe 70 channels or so and they are all available without a cable box (or cable card) now (but most are 480 resolution)

There's the problem -- the Charter Service Representative hooked it up to the wrong input. Video five is not meant for high definition. Re-connect the cables to video six and you'll see the difference.Joe,

I must respectfully disagree with this diagnosis and proposed solution.

On the XBR960 both INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical, and are both capable of receiving 480i/480p/720p/1080i input via component video.

Switching the component video connection from the DCH3416 from INPUT5 to INPUT6 should accomplish nothing.

The answer must lie elsewhere, if in doing so Phil noticed a "dramatic" improvement in picture after changing the connection on the back of the 960 from INPUT5 to INPUT6.

Joe,

I must respectfully disagree with this diagnosis and proposed solution.

On the XBR960 both INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical, and are both capable of receiving 480i/480p/720p/1080i input via component video.

Switching the component video connection from the DCH3416 from INPUT5 to INPUT6 should accomplish nothing.

The answer must lie elsewhere, if in doing so Phil noticed a "dramatic" improvement in picture after changing the connection on the back of the 960 from INPUT5 to INPUT6.I agree with DSperber on this. Inputs5 & 6 are identical, component video inputs capable of both SD and HD resolutions.

I would suggest that the Motorola box is not setup correctly. I suggest taking a look at Motorola STB Setup (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Setup). I have been using a Moto DCT6200 with a Sony 34HS510 for many years and TVType = 16:9, HDMI/YPbPr = 1080i, 4:3 override = OFF is my suggested setup.

4:3 override set to off allows the very good upconverter in the Sony to do its thing and allows use of the screen modes on the Sony. One note, because of a firmware problem on the DCT boxes, if it appears that a color is missing on SD channels, then set the override = 480p. However, this may not effect your DCH.

Yep, Joseph, switched the ribbon wires over to #6 and saw the improvement in sharpness, clarity, "crispness", immediately.Phil, as I mentioned in my reply to Joe's post, I disagree that this connection change from INPUT5 to INPUT6 accounts for the difference you see. In my opinion that is impossible, as INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical component video inputs on the 960... simply TWO separate alternatives for connection from source devices.

Since BOTH of these connections DO support the full range of input resolutions (480i from SD TV, 480p from DVD, 720p/1080i from HD channels) you could certainly have connected your DCH3416 to either input, and SHOULD have been able to clearly see what is in HD in its native and glorious resolution on the 960... and easily distinguishable from the SD equivalent channel.

The "5-strand" white ribbon cable you describe as installed by the cable company is simply an "all-in-one" standard-issue component video cable, with three of the five strands (green, blue, red male connectors at the end) going to the corresponding YPbPr green/blue/red remale connectors of the 960's component video input. The remaining two strands (red, white male connectors at the end) go the corresponding analog audio input for that particular component video input, which also have red/white female connectors.

Using the five INPUT5 connectors for this ribbon cable instead of the INPUT6 connectors makes no difference whatsoever. Both inputs are identical. There's nothing wrong with your current INPUT6 choice, but there should have been nothing wrong with your INPUT5 choice either.


So... now that you've told us you have a DCH3416 from Charter, let's first make sure that the cable guy did right by you. For simplicity let's just call it your "DVR". Let's make sure your DVR is configured correctly for the 960.

If you have the DVR powered on and the 960 powered on and you're watching INPUT6, go over to the DVR and push the POWER button on the front panel of the DVR and then right away (i.e. right after pushing the POWER button) push the MENU button on the front panel of the DVR. This should produce a setup screen on your 960.

At the top of the setup screen (titled "USER SETTING STATUS"). Use your remote down-arrow key to navigate the cursor around this menu. If any of the choices presented are NOT what I tell you should be set, if you push the OK button on the remote the settings menu will change the value to the next allowed value for that setting which you're pointing to.

Top line "TV TYPE" should be set to "16:9".

Second line "YPbPr OUTPUT" should show "1080I". The DCH3416 only supports 720p or 1080i (one or the other) for HD resolutions, depending on what the connected HDTV can accept. The 960 can accept either, but since only one of these values can be specified you should specify the "1080I" value to ensure maximum possible resolution on your screen. This will cause the DVR to up-convert 720p programs to 1080i resolution, but that's not a crime.

Third line "4:3 OVERRIDE" should show "off". This will cause 4:3 SD programs to be presented on the screen of the 960 as 4:3 images within the 16:9 rectangular screen, surround on left and right with black "pillar bars". In other words a 4:3 image will appear natural, normal, as if you are watching on a conventional 4:3 SD television, and with NO HORIZONTAL STRETCH. Of course this is a matter of personal taste (and is mine, naturally) but really only affects how 4:3 SD programs appear on the 960. I recommend this value.

Now push the POWER button again on the face of the DVR, to turn off the DVR and make your above settings permanent.


Now... you can power on the DVR again (use the remote) for normal operation.

Since you're new to HD, I'll state some obvious facts that make watching HD channels different from watching conventional SD channels. This may really be the true explanation why you saw "no appreciable difference" in SD channels vs. their HD counterparts... something which is actually impossible, if you've tuned to the proper channels. Nobody can NOT SEE a difference from SD to HD, if watching the proper HD channel.

And that's the key here... that there are TWO DIFFERENT CHANNELS provided by Charter, one for SD watching and a second separate channel for HD watching. To use an example from my Time Warner cable system, NBC is provided on both "SD" at channel 4 and also for "HD" on channel 404.

So yes, I can choose channel 4 and see it presented in 4:3 SD 480i resolution on INPUT5/6/7, or I can choose channel 404 and see it presented in 16:9 HD 1080i resolution on the same INPUT5/6/7.

Same with HBO on Time Warner... it is provided on 503 in SD 4:3 as well as on 502 in HD 16:9.

So first, you MUST be tuned to the HD version of a channel (when both SD and HD channel alternatives are provided, e.g. with your Animal Planet SD and HD).


Second, the channel most actually be broadcasting an HD 16:9 program in order for you to actually see HD clarity. Unfortunately, many of the standard cable and network channels (and APL is no different) often broadcast non-16:9 non-HD content. Even though this content is being sent to the HD 16:9 version of the channel (as well as to the SD 4:3 version of the channel), it will simply appear onscreen as a regular 4:3 non-glorious image.

This is not the fault of your 960, not the fault of your connection to INPUT5 or INPUT6, and not the fault of your DVR. It is simply that at that moment there is not a true 16:9 HD image being sent from network to Charter to you.

Now as a general rule, this is NEVER the case with premiums like HBO-HD. Except for inter-program promos or the very rarest of shows, you will likely ALWAYS see true 16:9 HD-quality images coming from HBO-HD and SHO-HD. But you MUST TUNE TO THOSE HBO-HD and SHO-HD channels in order to get HD pictures. You will NOT get HD picture on your 960 if you tune to the SD version of HBO and SHO.

Again... two separate channels for SD and HD for any single network/premium/cable source , and you must ALWAYS TUNE TO THE HD version of that channel in order to see the HD picture.


Finally, although the cable company used the standard-issue 5-strand white ribbon cable to connect your DVR to the 960 on INPUT5 (or INPUT6, no difference), I think you might find that buying your own HDMI cable to connect the DVR to the 960 using an HDMI connection might produce a slightly superior image (you would select INPUT7 on the 960 to watch via HDMI). At least that's been my experience, although the difference is quite small and you may not see it yourself.

In other words, component video connection vs. HDMI connection is more noticeable when using a digital flat-panel display device (e.g. LCD or plasma or DLP). With the CRT 960 there is almost no noticeable difference when using HDMI vs. component video, so until you get used to your new HD world I'd say just leave things exactly as they are right now.


So, I know you said all you did was moved your connection to the DVR from INPUT5 on the 960 over to INPUT6, but honestly that could not have been the explanation for why you now see an SD vs. HD difference.

I think you must have simply been not tuning to the proper channel... remember there are TWO to choose from for each network, one is SD and one is HD.

And on the HD channel they might be broadcasting an old 4:3 SD program which case there will be little difference between watching it on the HD channel and watching it on the SD channel.

But if they are broadcasting a true 16:9 HD program on the HD channel, I assure you there will be a GIANT difference between watching that 16:9 HD-resolution 720p/1080i program from the HD channel, and watching what will be a 4:3 cropped SD-resolution 480I version of that same program. NIGHT AND DAY, and anybody can see it.


Hope that helps clarify things.

Appreciate your lengthy reply putting terminology in language that an amateur like myself can understand. I followed all your directions about using the menu/setup and my Motorola Receiver/DVR #9416 was set exactly to the specifics you recommended.
I wish it were something as simple as my not hitting the correct HD channel when comparing. I tried several (Animal Planet SD#61,HD#729. HBO SD is 500, HD=550. Showtime 400, HD 570. Food 26/751. TNT 40/781. etc.) When going from a SD to HD channel I did notice a pause of a couple seconds BEFORE the HD appeared on screen. Then when I get to the HD channel it displays the channel # & shows HD next to that #. I'm certain that getting the HD channel when trying to compare to the SD channel.
If I had to give a "seat of the pants" comparison of my SD to HD picture I would say SD is a 9 and HD is a 9.3. Both pictures are great. Maybe I'm expecting too much of a difference but you got to really look close and focus on a brick, or a crack in the sidewalk, or scales on snake to see a discernable difference between the two. Because of this "lack of difference" in picture quality between SD &HD (at least to my wife's & my eyes) I'll probably not pay extra for the HD Package the next time the bill is due.
I learned a lot from all of the replies here & glad I posted my request for help. At least I now know everything is wired correctly, settings are correct, and I am receiving the HD channels . I'm content! Thanx.


I feel confident that my wiring, connections, settings, etc. are where they should be.

Ther's no need to speculate on whether you are hooked up correctly or not or to describe what you are seeing (but it still doesn't sound right). Just hit the display button on the remote and the tv will report the resollution you are receiving on screen eg 1080i for most HD channels but 720 p for others; 480i for SD

Yep, No longer any speculation because, as you suggested, I used the Display Button and got the 1080, 480 on the HD/SD Channels as they should be. Thanx.

Hi all,

See where I made the mistake.

On page 34 of the manual it specifically said to connect the DVD player's component outputs to video 5 (not 5 or 6). Since this was before the advent of Bluray and that non-HD monitors also had component inputs, I took this to mean only 480i/p could be accepted.

I see now where both 5 and 6 are clearly marked "HD" and feel quite embarrased. Hope this won't tarnish my reputation in future posts! :)

I agree with Dsperber - HDMI does offer a slightly bit better picture quality (I saw the difference when comparing the two, having used HD test patterns to be sure both inputs were properly set).

But either way, the difference between standard definition and HD (regardless of input-type) is so obvious so Phil, I would suggest trying a HDMI cable before unscribing your HD service. Perhaps there is a problem with the component output from your cable box.

I tried several (Animal Planet SD#61,HD#729. HBO SD is 500, HD=550. Showtime 400, HD 570. Food 26/751. TNT 40/781. etc.) When going from a SD to HD channel I did notice a pause of a couple seconds BEFORE the HD appeared on screen. Then when I get to the HD channel it displays the channel # & shows HD next to that #. I'm certain that getting the HD channel when trying to compare to the SD channel.

If I had to give a "seat of the pants" comparison of my SD to HD picture I would say SD is a 9 and HD is a 9.3. Both pictures are great. Maybe I'm expecting too much of a difference but you got to really look close and focus on a brick, or a crack in the sidewalk, or scales on snake to see a discernable difference between the two.Again... much depends on the cameras used to shoot the original content. If they're not HD cameras, but rather "WideScreen SD" just to produce the 16:9 aspect ratio image while not actually producing 720p/1080i resolution, then the content is not going to produce that much of a WOW effect when comparing SD to HD.

Since you have apparently gotten some "all you can eat" option from Charter (maybe for 3 months) I suggest you spend a bit more time comparing actual known 16:9 true HD-content against its cropped 4:3 SD counterpart, before rushing to any 9.0 vs. 9.3 estimate of relative difference.

The 960 is a fantastic HDTV and does some remarkable things with images, but I can assure you that SD vs. HD is simply not 9.0 vs. 9.3. There is a HUGE amount of additional visual data in 1920x1080 vs. 640x480, and the scan lines in both horizontal and vertical directions are MUCH closer together, making it look much more like film rather than interlaced TV.


Because of this "lack of difference" in picture quality between SD &HD (at least to my wife's & my eyes) I'll probably not pay extra for the HD Package the next time the bill is due.Well I don't know what the HD package from Charter consists of, but I'm sure that even if you discontinue whatever they sold you you'll still be getting local OTA networks and other "basic cable" channels in HD as well as SD. Please... only tune to the HD channels if they exist. This goes for setting timer recordings on your DVR... ONLY CHOOSE THE HD CHANNEL VERSIONS FOR RECORDING (you may need to "train the wife" here). DO NOT WATCH SD CHANNELS WHEN HD CHANNELS ARE AVAILABLE.

However I don't take issue with your right to get whatever you want from Charter, especially discontinuing some of the real options (like premium movie channels other than HBO and SHO).

But if you've got HBO-HD and SHO-HD at least for this month, please tune in on Sunday night and watch (a) "Curb Your Enthusiasm" on HBO-HD, and (b) "Dexter" on SHO-HD. These are going to both be in stunning 16:9 true HD shot with absolutely genuine HD cameras. And go back and forth to the 4:3 SD channels (with big black bars on left and right since the image is only 4:3) and compare what you see, and tell me you can't tell the difference!

Even your wife should easily be able to see the difference. 16:9 vs. 4:3, 1920 horizontal scan lines vs. 640, 1080 vertical scan lines vs. 480. Come on.

Then, on Thursday night, do the same thing with "Survivor" and "CSI" on CBS-HD. These are two network HD shows in 1080i that are ABSOLUTELY STUNNING in true 16:9 HD and look shameful by comparison in 4:3 SD. Come on.


Welcome to the HD world. Keep it (but delete optional packages with channels you'll never watch).

I'm already an avid fan of both CSI & Dexter so I will watch both these upcoming episodes in HD. I'm going to experiment with all my HD channels (about 20 total) before I make the decision to cancel my HD channels. I do think I'll spend $10, including shipping,(Amazon) for a 6 ft. HDMI cable (Mediabridge Ultra, Version 1.3, Category 2) & see if that helps.
If I order a HDMI cable, to replace my "ribbon wire", does this one connection do both audio & video? On the rear panel of my 960 I see the HDMI, Video 7 IN, plug. Then below that plug "hole" there are 2 RCA type audio jack "holes", Audio IN, left & right. Do I have to connect the 2 white ribbon wire RCA jacks to these audio connections or does the one single HDMI connection serve both purposes (video & audio)?

No - the audio will come to the TV over the HDMI digitally

You may want to hook up the digital out of the STB to a receiver however to get DD 5.1 suround sound, I also have the TV digital out hooked up to receiver as well

I currently have both a DVD player & my Charter DVR connected & working fine with my 960. I also have a VCR that is NOT connected at present time. Occassionally I would like to play a VCR tape that I have on hand. What specific connections do I need to connect to get the VCR to work with my TV? What goes where & what "type" connector wire/cable do I need to do so? Thanx again.

I currently have both a DVD player & my Charter DVR connected & working fine with my 960. I also have a VCR that is NOT connected at present time. Occassionally I would like to play a VCR tape that I have on hand. What specific connections do I need to connect to get the VCR to work with my TV? What goes where & what "type" connector wire/cable do I need to do so? Thanx again.Unless your VCR happens to have an S-video output, some do but most do not, composite video will be your best option. This connection consists of one yellow RCA video connection and two red/white RCA audio connections. Video 1, 2(on the front), & 3 are s-video or composite and 4 is composite only. Take your pick.

Good Luck

Don't forget, I'm a "newbie" with very little video expertise. I do not have S video on my DVR. Now, I connect my VCR to what------the TV itself, or the Charter box/receiver? Pls. specify what specific connections on the DVR go to what specific connections on the TV, or is it the receiver. Pls. bear with this amateur as this is all new to me. I just want to make certain that I connect the VCR to the right piece of equipment. In this case, is it the TV or is it the Receiver/DVR box from Charter?

I have a strange problem with my Sony XBR800 right now. I just picked up a hd/dvr converter from my cable company yesterday. The clarity is fine, however, for some reason on HD channels in both 720p and 1080i formats, there is a sliver of the bottom portion of the picture sitting right on the top of the picture. For example, watching the NFL games today, the yard lines and people on the sidelines are shown in a small sliver on top part of the picture.

If you guys don't know what I'm talking about I can snap a picture. I went into the service menu and adjusted some of the geometry codes and searched if it was an overscan problem on this forum but couldn't find anything.

Thoughts?

Don't forget, I'm a "newbie" with very little video expertise. I do not have S video on my DVR. Now, I connect my VCR to what------the TV itself, or the Charter box/receiver? Pls. specify what specific connections on the DVR go to what specific connections on the TV, or is it the receiver. Pls. bear with this amateur as this is all new to me. I just want to make certain that I connect the VCR to the right piece of equipment. In this case, is it the TV or is it the Receiver/DVR box from Charter?You're mixing up your terms a little. I understood your latest question to be, how to connect your VCR to your HDTV to playback existing VHS tapes. My response answered this question. Connect the video and audio out of the VCR to video 1 of your HDTV using a yellow, red/white RCA cable. Select video 1 on the set to view.

BTW, you did not mention any desire to record on the VCR so this solution does not include that capability.

Yep, you're totally correct. I used the term DVR, twice, when I meant to say VCR. You're also correct in that I asked only how to Play a tape and did not specify anything about Recording a tape on my VCR. Thanks to the details & specifics you sent, I now know how to Play a VCR tape. Just in case I may one day want to Record a tape could you pls. provide that info. as well? Thanks again for your response and helpful info.

I'm already an avid fan of both CSI & Dexter so I will watch both these upcoming episodes in HD. I'm going to experiment with all my HD channels (about 20 total) before I make the decision to cancel my HD channels.I forgot to mention one other show which looks stunning in HD, and that's "Saturday Night Live" on NBC (it was on last night, of course).

The other shows are filmed, or shot using digital cameras to produce a film-like look. But SNL is actually live 1080i (with essentially no motion so that there are no motion artifacts of any kind), and you can't get any better than that. You should be able to see a HUGE difference in picture quality watching the HD version... not to mention the HUGE increase in pure enjoyment from the gorgeously perfect color, 16:9 widescreen image, etc.


I do think I'll spend $10, including shipping,(Amazon) for a 6 ft. HDMI cable (Mediabridge Ultra, Version 1.3, Category 2) & see if that helps.It will not "help" anything in a dramatic way. With the CRT 960 component video picture is honestly almost indistinguishable from HDMI picture, although I've come to feel that the HDMI version of the picture from my Motorola DVRs (previously DCH3416 like yours, and now DCX3400) has a small bit of "pop" and sharpness that just looks a little better to me. So now I've opted for HDMI rather than component (although I can choose either, since I have both connections in place), but I've watched HDTV over component video on the 960 for many years, going HDMI only in the past 6 months or so.

Again, the difference is subtle, and depending on the "calibration" of your 960 you may either not see any difference or you may actually prefer one or the other. Remember, the USER MENU settings for INPUT5, 6 and 7 are uniquely remembered. So you can adjust each input separately.


If I order a HDMI cable, to replace my "ribbon wire", does this one connection do both audio & video?This was answered earlier. And the answer is that the HDMI cable completely replaces the 5-strand ribbon cable. HDMI provides both digital audio and digital video to the 960. You need nothing else, so you can remove the ribbon cable completely.

And, as has also been mentioned, if you have an external audio receiver and loudspeakers for multi-channel sound, you should connect the DVR to the receiver using an optical connection. The 960 itself is incapable of reproducing multi-channel sound, so you'll only hear 2-channel L/R stereo (just as you currently do from the red/white pair of wires in your 5-strand ribbon cable).

The only difference is that the sound currently being fed over the red/white wires from the DVR is in analog form, being fed to the analog audio input of the 960 (corresponding to INPUT5/6). The job of converting from the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio that is part of the digital TV program content is being done by the DVR.

In contrast, when you use the HDMI cable from DVR to 960 then the job of converting the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio in the digital TV content is performed by the 960 itself. This may or may not actually sound better than the analog stereo sound currently coming from the DVR.

Remember that you have audio setup available to you, in both the 960 as well as the DCH3416. Given the meagerness of the 960's speakers, I don't know that there's much that can be done to really make anything sound all that good.

Personally, I don't use the speakers on the TV (I have them disabled) because honestly they're not all that great. Instead, I use a very good set of external 2.1 Altec-Lansing computer speakers instead of the 960's speakers, when I want to just casually listen to something on the TV. These speakers are connected through my A/V receiver which is fed optically from the DVR (which feeds both 2-channel digital PCM stereo as well as multi-channel Dolby Digital audio through the same optical cable).

Otherwise, I have a "virtual multi-channel" headphone setup (also from my A/V receiver) for when I want to do serious listening to multi-channel source. I do not actually have a real 5.1 loudspeaker system, and the "virtual multi-channel" headphone system is my alternative.

Took your advice & watched a football game, or two, and Dexter in HD. Kept switching between the SD channel & HD channel just to compare/contrast the difference in video quality. The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture. Even my wife remarked about Dexter looking so much better than our "normal" Showtime channel. Thanks again for helping me to appreciate the HD that my 960 now provides!

Yep, you're totally correct. I used the term DVR, twice, when I meant to say VCR. You're also correct in that I asked only how to Play a tape and did not specify anything about Recording a tape on my VCR. Thanks to the details & specifics you sent, I now know how to Play a VCR tape. Just in case I may one day want to Record a tape could you pls. provide that info. as well? Thanks again for your response and helpful info.As has been detailed earlier, to play a tape from VCR to 960 you simply connect the audio/video outputs of the VCR to either INPUT1/3 (on the back of the set) or INPUT2 (on the front of the set). L/R audio output from the VCR uses a red/white RCA-connector cable. Video can either be using the yellow composite cable (lesser video quality) or preferably an S-video cable (better video quality) if your VCR has an S-connector. The 960 supports either [yellow] composite or S-video as input for INPUT1/2/3.

To record something from your DVR, you similarly connect the analog outputs of the DVR to the audio/video inputs on the VCR. Note that the DCH3416 only has one set of red/white analog audio outputs... so if you have them connected as part of your 5-strand component video ribbon cable to INPUT5/6 of the 960, then you can't also connect them directly to the L/R audio input of your VCR. Of course if you go the HDMI route then the L/R audio outputs on the DVR are now freed up and you can re-purpose them for connection to the L/R audio inputs on your VCR.

Of course even if you stick with the 5-strand ribbon cable for getting HD from DVR to the 960, you can solve the "need 2 audio outputs but the DVR only has 1 audio output" dilemma by going to Radio Shack and buying a pair of Y-splitter adapters (single end is male, double end is female). You plug the single male end of each Y-splitter into red/white female audio output connectors on the DVR, and then you connect the female ends to two pairs of red/white cables going to both the 960 and VCR. This will effectively give you two sets of L/R audio outputs from the DVR to your two other devices (VCR and 960), even though the DVR only has one set of audio outputs on the box itself.

Anyway, aside from the audio cabling issue of not having two sets of audio outputs on the DVR if you don't use HDMI from DVR to 960, again you have a choice of video cabling connections from DVR to VCR. You can again use [yellow] composite cable (lesser video quality) or the preferred S-video cable (better video quality).

I'm describing an audio/video connection from DVR to VCR assuming you can set recordings on your VCR with "line input" as the "channel". If your VCR is so old that it only allows recording from the old 75-ohm RF coax cable connector (and using the tuner in the VCR to select a channel), well come back at a later time for further instructions.

So... 3-cable audio/video from DVR to VCR, and 3-cable audio/video from VCR to 960. S-video is preferred all around, if possible.

Note: the 960 has separate USER MENU settings memories for INPUT1/2/3 as well. So any customization here has nothing to do with customization you might do for your HDTV watching on INPUT5/6/7.

The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture. And... 16:9 using up your entire wide screen, instead of just 4:3 in the center. You can see the whole tennis stadium, or basketball court, or ice rink, or football field. Nothing cut off on the sides.

Took your advice & watched a football game, or two, and Dexter in HD. Kept switching between the SD channel & HD channel just to compare/contrast the difference in video quality. The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture. Even my wife remarked about Dexter looking so much better than our "normal" Showtime channel. Thanks again for helping me to appreciate the HD that my 960 now provides!

Hi Phil,

Glad you see the difference now.

The 960 offers user adjustments to help enhance the picture. There are four different type modes and for HD, most in the forum use the PRO mode (I found the MOVIE mode with it's slightly softer picture more to my liking for both live action and film but that's a personal preference, of course).

These are my HD settings for both PRO and MOVIE if you would like to use them for a starting point:

MODE: PRO MOVIE
PICTURE: 42 43
BRIGHT: 30 30
HUE: R2 R1
COLOR: 41 39
SHARP: 16 19
TEMP: COOL COOL
C. EDGE: MEDIUM HI
C. AXIS: DEFAULT DEFAUL

As pointed out by others, these user settings can vary from set to set based on callibration and since I have made adjustments in the service menu to my 960 they might not work as well for yours. But again, you can use them for general reference.

If you are not sure how to adjust your set, the instructions appear on page 94 of the manual. I DO SUGGEST WRITING DOWN YOUR CURRENT SETTINGS FIRST so you can always return to them if you don't like the way picture became adjusted.

Hope this helps,
Joe

Joe, I used your parameters as a guide in "setting" my 960 and my colors are much better now. I varied a little in brightness & hue but that was just for personal preferences. The rest were exactly what you had suggested and they worked well for me. If you have any further suggestions, recommendations, etc. pls. free to let me know. I've learned more about my XBR960 in the past 2 days here at AVS than what I had learned in the past 3 yrs. of ownership. Thanks again.

Joe, I used your parameters as a guide in "setting" my 960 and my colors are much better now. I varied a little in brightness & hue but that was just for personal preferences.Don't forget "some like chocolate and some like vanilla". Sure, it's personal taste, and that's what you should adjust to.

But just for a contrast, here's what my settings are for INPUT7:

Mode PRO
Picture 35
Brightness 32
Color 31
Hue 0
Sharpness MIN
Color Temp COOL
Clear Edge OFF
Adv Color Axis DEFAULT

I suspect this will look visibly different to you than Joe's. Again, just another set of values for you to try... and then decide for yourself what looks best to you.

I suggest you use some HDTV program like "Leno" or "SNL" for reference which is essentially stationary on the screen, so that you can make individual settings clicks and still see the same scene. That way you can really tell exactly what you're accomplishing, and whether a bit more or a bit less of some setting is helpful or harmful.

Kind of like getting an eyeglass prescription: "better, or worse?"

Dark or rapidly moving sample programs are NOT what you want to use for tweaking. In fact, stationary test patterns are required for geometry adjustements, etc. But for brightness, contrast, color, edge enhancement, sharpness, etc., as stationary a real picture as you can find... with human skin tone predominant... is what will serve you best in your tweaking effort.


Also, one thing that's very critical for natural color on the 960 is to back off the "red push" in the Service Menu (if you've never done it). I'm talking about the four crucial values in 2170P-4 of the Service Menu.

Corresponding to my own personal User Menu values above are my own personal Service Menu values for these four crucial values which will make skin-tone look like real human skin-tone:

VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)
VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)
VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)
VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)

Others may have slightly different values here, but I find that my 13,15,5,4 values are perfect for my User Menu color-related values. Again... personal taste.


Don't forget... settings vary by viewing environment. A set of "Pro" values in a dark room will be very difficult to accept in a room with big glass windows and broad daylight. My values are for dark-room viewing, which is the only way I watch HDTV.

You might also try NBC's Nightly News as another test platform for color adjustment.

They went HD a while back, and the lighting and makeup set and and studio colors were all adjusted to make Brian Williams look his best.

He's always wearing a perfectly white shirt, his makeup is excellent and his skin tone looks perfect, and his tie is typically a beautiful color (e.g. purple or lavendar) and always provides a striking contrast to his pure white shirt.

Plus, he's essentially a still-motion photograph on your screen for 30 minutes, so it's very easy to adjust your various settings and see what you do to his visage.

The other shows (Leno and SNL) are pretty much a riot of color, with lots of different people's skin tone visible. Remember, skin tone varies widely by individual, so you must accept that not everyone will look like Brian Williams even though your color settings on the 960 are "perfect". Leno is interesting because you have several people onscreen at once, so the variety of skin color is obvious... and interesting.

But if you can get the skin color of someone who you're familiar with (night after night) to look natural, you can be confident that the other colors you see are quite accurate.

Proper flesh tone on a "live" 1080i show where people are sitting stationary is the secret to getting your color right. Filmed shows with artistic lighting and constant motion are not good for tweaking.

Don't forget "some like chocolate and some like vanilla". Sure, it's personal taste, and that's what you should adjust to.

But just for a contrast, here's what my settings are for INPUT7:

Mode PRO
Picture 35
Brightness 32
Color 31
Hue 0
Sharpness MIN
Color Temp COOL
Clear Edge OFF
Adv Color Axis DEFAULT

I suspect this will look visibly different to you than Joe's. Again, just another set of values for you to try... and then decide for yourself what looks best to you.

I suggest you use some HDTV program like "Leno" or "SNL" for reference which is essentially stationary on the screen, so that you can make individual settings clicks and still see the same scene. That way you can really tell exactly what you're accomplishing, and whether a bit more or a bit less of some setting is helpful or harmful.

Kind of like getting an eyeglass prescription: "better, or worse?"

Dark or rapidly moving sample programs are NOT what you want to use for tweaking. In fact, stationary test patterns are required for geometry adjustements, etc. But for brightness, contrast, color, edge enhancement, sharpness, etc., as stationary a real picture as you can find... with human skin tone predominant... is what will serve you best in your tweaking effort.


Also, one thing that's very critical for natural color on the 960 is to back off the "red push" in the Service Menu (if you've never done it). I'm talking about the four crucial values in 2170P-4 of the Service Menu.

Corresponding to my own personal User Menu values above are my own personal Service Menu values for these four crucial values which will make skin-tone look like real human skin-tone:

VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)
VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)
VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)
VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)

Others may have slightly different values here, but I find that my 13,15,5,4 values are perfect for my User Menu color-related values. Again... personal taste.


Don't forget... settings vary by viewing environment. A set of "Pro" values in a dark room will be very difficult to accept in a room with big glass windows and broad daylight. My values are for dark-room viewing, which is the only way I watch HDTV.

That's the truth. Noticed huge color improvement (more natural, better tonal quality, etc.) when changes were made in the service menu. Until one gets used to it, maneuvering through the service manual is actually more difficult than making setting adjustments :). Let us know if you want to give it a try - it's not as scary as it might seem as long as you write down your orginal settings to return to if you make a mistake.

And just to show that there is (for me) a very tiny difference between HDMI and component video, my INPUT6 settings are identical except for Brightness (33 for component video, 32 for HDMI):

Mode PRO
Picture 35
Brightness 33
Color 31
Hue 0
Sharpness MIN
Color Temp COOL
Clear Edge OFF
Adv Color Axis DEFAULT

I think HDMI has a bit more natural "pop" and I didn't need to tweak Brightness for it quite as much as for component video. I know, it's just 1-notch, but it's still something.

Of course this could also be accounted for by a difference in the component video outputs of my Motorola DVRs, where the digital color and brightness are being converted to analog by the DVR. With HDMI it's being determined by the decoding logic in the 960.

Anyway, everybody's 960 is different, and everybody's viewing room environment is different (unless you make your room artificially all-dark... for optimal "Pro" viewing with minimal 960 "boost" for anything), and everybody's viewing tastes are different. For example, I only watch HDTV with the rarest of DVD/BD. So my 960 adjustements are essentially 100% concerned with HDTV programming delivered from my cable company and DVR. Your viewing habits may be quite different.

Incidentally, if you have a DVD player connected to one of your component video inputs and your DVR connected to the other (or HDMI), don't forget that you can tweak EACH INPUT SEPARATELY. The 960's User Menu Settings are remembered uniquely by input.

"I think HDMI has a bit more natural "pop" and I didn't need to tweak Brightness for it quite as much as for component video. I know, it's just 1-notch, but it's still something."

Hi Dsperber,

HDMI seems to have more punch but as you mentioned, it could be due to many factors. In our local Cablevision forum many have agreed with me that the picture on the SA 8300 HD-DVR was slightly more vibrant using HDMI. In addition, the HD picture on the DVR had more punch to it than that of the SA non-DVR unit. However, with the non-DVR box many actually found component to be the equal or better than HDMI.

And I also noticed a one-notch change in brightness indeed makes a difference in sharpness and color saturation. If I didn't retain those HD test patterns on my DVR I am sure I would be constantly changing the setting for it.

Hi,

I video taped many films from Turner Classic Movies before the advent of the DVD recorder. Since these titles have not been aired for many years (nor scheduled in the future) I would like to dub them onto DVD for preservation.

A couple of quick questions.

I plan to use the 960's video/audio out for dubbing - the reason being I cannot dub directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder because our previous cable provider's scrambler was messed up, causing the pictures to shake during playback (TCM was not scrambled, the system was just bad). This distoration was seen on every previous monitor I owned but to my joy, I found these tapes played back pefectly viewed on the 960 (hence the need to use the Sony as an in-between). So am I correct to assume the 960 will pass the stable picture through to the DVD recorder?

The other is, I admit, a stupid question. The 960 must remain on when recording for if it isn't, I'll be recording a black screen, right?

Hi,

I video taped many films from Turner Classic Movies before the advent of the DVD recorder. Since these titles have not been aired for many years (nor scheduled in the future) I would like to dub them onto DVD for preservation.

A couple of quick questions.

I plan to use the 960's video/audio out for dubbing - the reason being I cannot dub directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder because our previous cable provider's scrambler was messed up, causing the pictures to shake during playback (TCM was not scrambled, the system was just bad). This distoration was seen on every previous monitor I owned but to my joy, I found these tapes played back pefectly viewed on the 960 (hence the need to use the Sony as an in-between). So am I correct to assume the 960 will pass the stable picture through to the DVD recorder?

The other is, I admit, a stupid question. The 960 must remain on when recording for if it isn't, I'll be recording a black screen, right?

Joe, you're pulling our legs on the second question, right? (You know the answer--no output when it's turned off!)

OK, now what I think is the bad news: To my knowledge, the 960 does not "correct" the signal. It just has "wider window of acceptance." So it doesn't stabilize or time base correct the signal, it "just" is more forgiving of errors and displays a good picture with an unstable input. So I don't see that you're going to get better copies by routing the signal through the 960. Go direct and save some processing/signal conversion steps.

The proof, of course, is to try it and see what happens. But a word of caution if this appears to work (in other words, if the DVD copies play acceptably on the 960): Try it on another TV set just to be sure your trusty 960 isn't continuing to mask the signal problems.

Best,

Mark

Joe, you're pulling our legs on the second question, right? (You know the answer--no output when it's turned off!)

OK, now what I think is the bad news: To my knowledge, the 960 does not "correct" the signal. It just has "wider window of acceptance." So it doesn't stabilize or time base correct the signal, it "just" is more forgiving of errors and displays a good picture with an unstable input. So I don't see that you're going to get better copies by routing the signal through the 960. Go direct and save some processing/signal conversion steps.

The proof, of course, is to try it and see what happens. But a word of caution if this appears to work (in other words, if the DVD copies play acceptably on the 960): Try it on another TV set just to be sure your trusty 960 isn't continuing to mask the signal problems.

Best,

Mark

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the "bad news" that the 960, in masking the problems, might pass the instable picture onto the DVD which, even if it plays fine on the 960, might still be apparent on other monitors. If the DVD only plays OK on the 960 that is acceptable since on other sets they will then appear no different than the actual video tape and at least it will be preserved.

I previously experimented dubbing directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder and it did nothing to reduce the unstable picture of those particular tapes.

Of course, I wasn't that serious about asking if the power needed to be remain on but I posed the question anyway, having seen wierder things happen in my lifetime (don't forget I admitted it was a stupid question).:)

Hi again, Mark.

Well, you were 100% right. Those old recordings on VHS could not be dubbed onto DVD without re-capturing the instability caused by our old cable provider's messed up system. Used the 960's video output from the VCR and also connected the VCR to the DVR's auxillary input - didn't matter Same with recording directly from the VCR to DVD recorder bypassing the 960 altogether.

Well, at least I still have them on VHS. Only recorded a few mintues using a DVD Ram so I didn't waste a lot of my time or a blank DVD-R.

I moved my 960 to one of the bedrooms when I got my new Sony KD46XBR8 this week. (It has a very good picture, equal to the 960 and bigger but maybe not better.)

FYI, I went through the same CC hassle with my Cable company (Cox) as I did two years ago. I had the 960 on Tivo through HDMI the last year so did not have a CC in it. Cox came on Thursday with one CC and, of course, it did not work. He then got two more and neither of them worked either.

So, he gave up and scheduled another tech for Friday AM. That rep checked out the entire system, replaced the coax under the street to the Cox distribution box on the other side and, to my relief, made the Card work.

All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.

FYI.

I moved my 960 to one of the bedrooms when I got my new Sony KD46XBR8 this week. (It has a very good picture, equal to the 960 and bigger but maybe not better.)

FYI, I went through the same CC hassle with my Cable company (Cox) as I did two years ago. I had the 960 on Tivo through HDMI the last year so did not have a CC in it. Cox came on Thursday with one CC and, of course, it did not work. He then got two more and neither of them worked either.

So, he gave up and scheduled another tech for Friday AM. That rep checked out the entire system, replaced the coax under the street to the Cox distribution box on the other side and, to my relief, made the Card work.

All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.

FYI.

Congratulations on your new LCD and sorry you went through the hassle to again get the cable card to work. It's also nice knowing there is a LCD the equal of (but not better than) the 960 (in case we need to replace our sets down the road) even though it took five years to do so. Am sure the LCDs and DLPs of five years back cannot make the same claim.

All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.

FYI.

I also had cable company (Comcast) hassles setting up my cable card in the 960 - but also kept after them to get it right.

Its worth it for me. Especially how the 960 works via firewire to my DVHS recorder.

Much more useable (and cheaper by $4 a month as you note) for recording digital programming to my D-VHS tape uint. The TV's controls are fine for my use via I-link interface. Firewire via the cable box is more awkward but there is more control of record scheduliinng programming via guide on the cable co dvr

Congratulations on your new LCD and sorry you went through the hassle to again get the cable card to work. It's also nice knowing there is a LCD the equal of (but not better than) the 960 (in case we need to replace our sets down the road) even though it took five years to do so. Am sure the LCDs and DLPs of five years back cannot make the same claim.
Thanks.

I am not sure how long this Sony LCD unit will be available. It is a triple LED backlight and is no longer available on Sony's website. I got mine through Best Buy at 1/2 the original price from Sony a year ago. Comes in 46 and 55 inch sizes although the 55 price has not been reduced much.

Thanks.

I am not sure how long this Sony LCD unit will be available. It is a triple LED backlight and is no longer available on Sony's website. I got mine through Best Buy at 1/2 the original price from Sony a year ago. Comes in 46 and 55 inch sizes although the 55 price has not been reduced much.

Well, am sure the model that replaces it will have all the same features plus a few new "cosmetic" ones to up the price somewhat.

Well, am sure the model that replaces it will have all the same features plus a few new "cosmetic" ones to up the price somewhat.
I have owned the 32XBR100 that was arguably the best SD set Sony ever made. It cost more in 1997 than the one I just bought. The 960 is an exceptional CRT HD set. Neither of these TV's are being made now. It may be that the accountants over-ruled the engineers and that is why the XBR8 design is going away. I am sure it was costly to make. Like the previous two mentioned, I think the XBR8 will rule for another year or two without better replacement.

I have owned the 32XBR100 that was arguably the best SD set Sony ever made. It cost more in 1997 than the one I just bought. The 960 is an exceptional CRT HD set. Neither of these TV's are being made now. It may be that the accountants over-ruled the engineers and that is why the XBR8 design is going away. I am sure it was costly to make. Like the previous two mentioned, I think the XBR8 will rule for another year or two without better replacement.

Could also be the eventual heir to the XBR8 series might not be as good since all know SONY already did that with a tailored-down 970. Just shows a new, higher model number doesn't always mean new, higher quality.

Don't see how anyone could improve over the 960 other than in screen size.

On another subject, forgot that many of the service settings are mode dependent and recently found I needed to re-adjust some of the factory settings that were off when switching from PRO to MOVIE.

Other than using a switcher, how are you all hooking up your HDMI-equipped sources? Any issues on color settings having to be compromised when using more than one source through the 960's single input? Just curious as to what you're doing.

Other than using a switcher, how are you all hooking up your HDMI-equipped sources? Any issues on color settings having to be compromised when using more than one source through the 960's single input? Just curious as to what you're doing.

Was wondering that myself in case we went to bluray and wanted to take advantage of the upconversion if better than the 960's drc (can't upconvert via component).

Assuming the bluray player would have it's own controls for color, tint, brightness, etc. that could be adjusted within the perimeters already set for HD. Would be great if the settngs need not be changed at all.

Was wondering that myself in case we went to bluray and wanted to take advantage of the upconversion if better than the 960's drc (can't upconvert via component).

Assuming the bluray player would have it's own controls for color, tint, brightness, etc. that could be adjusted within the perimeters already set for HD. Would be great if the settngs need not be changed at all.
That's true. The Oppo bluray player I'm planning to get has decent picture adjustments. I already own the Oppo 983 upscaling player, so they may not be much different from eachother, color-wise. I'm so used to adjusting the display to match the source.

Anyone else?

Don't see how anyone could improve over the 960 other than in screen size.

Yes, larger would be nice. Ansi contrast could be improved I think and maybe sharpness but it's pretty sharp after a calibration anyway. The color is fuxxing stunning though I've never seen a set do color this good. Sorry for my language. :)

That's true. The Oppo bluray player I'm planning to get has decent picture adjustments. I already own the Oppo 983 upscaling player, so they may not be much different from eachother, color-wise. I'm so used to adjusting the display to match the source.

Anyone else?

You might consider hooking up the Oppo bluray player via component cable and let the 960 handle the upconverting for 480i DVDs (I recently purchased a $40 progressive scan Sony without upconversion and the upconverted picture using the 960's DRC circuitry is fantastic). If this works, it would eliminate any concern about messing up adjustments already made for your video seven input.

One way to determine if the 960 provides as good an upscaling as your Oppo 983 would be to connect your current Oppo to component in addition to HDMI and compare both pictures by switching back and forth. Or have you already tried that?

Resolved the problem of dubbing old films from VHS onto DVD.

Using my DVR's auxillary input helps clear up most of the jittery picture caused by my previous provider's faulty descramblng equipment and captured on tape. It's much more stable than dubbing directly through the 960 or from the VCR but I also need to keep the Sony powered on, otherwise the HD DVR senses a break in the "handshake" and the picture is replaced by a notification that a HD cable needs to be connected. This also allows me to use the DVR's S-video output which provides better overall picture quality from what I would get using an ordinary RCA cable (it really shows for a silent filmed in early two-strip technicolor.

Had to adjust the horizontal size on the 960 from 44 to 53 to eliminate the white line appearing on the extreme left. Perhaps the the width wasn't set properly to begin with but even not, the difference is hardly noticable.

Mind you, some recordings were just so bad that they are not worth dubbing but for the most part, this resolves the problem.

Hey, is there by chance anybody out there that had to get rid of their XBR960 (or 910) and has the Sony stand that they are now looking to get rid of? I just came to be the new home of an XBR960 and need to get it off of the file cabinets...

Hey, is there by chance anybody out there that had to get rid of their XBR960 (or 910) and has the Sony stand that they are now looking to get rid of? I just came to be the new home of an XBR960 and need to get it off of the file cabinets...

Congratulations on at least getting the more important part of the duo - the 960. Still the best HD monitor out there for it's life-like picture.

There have been past posts in this forum about alternate stands that could be used for the SONY and if you take a search your're sure to come across them.

We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.

Couldn't help being impressed by the huge picture and it was indeed quite colorful, crisp and breath-taking -- but to a point. Indeed, the term applied to these technologies I think still accurately describes the one big drawback -"flat screen". Unlike a CRT, on live broadcasts the picture did not seem natural enough to appear like looking through a glass window. There was still no illusion of three-dimensional depth. And the facial details (creases in skin, hair stubble, etc.) seemed less pronounced than what I see on the 960.

Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.

As one can see, I'm a little bit biased when it comes to this set of ours!

rightly so

Has anyone else in the So. Bay Area had to rescan their OTA channels on frequent basis? I'm starting to wonder if my ATSC tuner might be going out. :eek:

We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.

Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.

Well, plus you are comparing an LG to a SONY XBR. ;)

Know we many times discussed whether the 960 line doubler performs as well as an upconverting DVD player. Well, I will find out the answer this week.

My old Panny DVD recorder is on the blink - every other disc or so it won't write down the recorded information. So just ordered a new Panasonic EA-18K with upconversion plus a 5x1 HDMI switch and two more cables through Monoprice. Will let you guys know what the results are.

Does the 960 output 5.1? When I hooked up an optical cable directly from my 960 to my Yamaha receiver audio only came out in 2.0. Both video and audio was fed to the set via HDMI from a DVR.


The XBR960 will output Dolby Digital 5.1 via toslink if the source is from the Digital ATSC and QAM Tuners. If the source is HDMI then it will only output 2ch audio. The reason I suspect is that during the handshake process the XBR960 identifies it's self as a 2ch audio device (internal speakers) and thus the HDMI source agrees and only sends 2ch audio down the line.

I did a short write up in this same thread on the topic, this question has been asked a few times.

We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.

Couldn't help being impressed by the huge picture and it was indeed quite colorful, crisp and breath-taking -- but to a point. Indeed, the term applied to these technologies I think still accurately describes the one big drawback -"flat screen". Unlike a CRT, on live broadcasts the picture did not seem natural enough to appear like looking through a glass window. There was still no illusion of three-dimensional depth. And the facial details (creases in skin, hair stubble, etc.) seemed less pronounced than what I see on the 960.

Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.

As one can see, I'm a little bit biased when it comes to this set of ours!

Much more impressive is the Panasonic Z1 line, which is just as good as (if not better than) the Kuro that it's trying to replace.

http://www.engadget.com/2009/10/22/panasonics-1-inch-thick-z1-plasma-reviewed-playing-with-perfec/