I've also been searching for an XBR960 to no end. The power supply blew on my last one and didn't bother getting it fixed, so I upgraded to a Pioneer 5020 Kuro.. or should I say downgraded? Anyway I've had this plasma for nearly 2 years and while I enjoy the hell out of it, it's simply doesn't have as good a picture as I remember from that Sony.

I'm located in Raleigh, NC and if anyone knows anyone in the triangle area that's willing to part with one I'd pay top dollar (more than they go for on craigslist.. since none ever seem to pop up.. or I just miss it :()

Thanks.

"I've also been searching for an XBR960 to no end. The power supply blew on my last one and didn't bother getting it fixed, so I upgraded to a Pioneer 5020 Kuro.. or should I say downgraded? Anyway I've had this plasma for nearly 2 years and while I enjoy the hell out of it, it's simply doesn't have as good a picture as I remember from that Sony."

Funny, how so many of us have added LCDs, Plasmas, etc. to our homes and still can see these newer sets still can't compare to the older 960.

Even though they have come a long way, most noticable is the amount of added detail one still sees on the 960; for example, faces appear smooth on a LCD while lines and stubble can be seen on the 960. Same with the minute details in nature and travel programs. There is overall more richness in the picture due to the depth perception that flat screens are unable to duplicate. And, of course, non-HD material is upscaled much better.

While very happy with the Samsung LCD in our den, I too would be disappointed if I had to replace the 960 for anything else would be less, despite the bigger screen size.

I too would be disappointed if I had to replace the 960 for anything else would be less, despite the bigger screen size.

Yes I'm enjoying the real estate of the 50" plasma. This is probably the key reason I decided to go for it instead of another 960 back then. It does really have a wow factor to it, something that 34" just can't accomplish in that respect. The Pioneer is probably the best of the bunch out there now, but for the life of me I don't recall it having as good a picture as the 960.

The main concern for me is upscaling dvds isn't quite up to par on the Pioneer. Yes, it's watchable but the 960 made my dvds look like HD. Until my collection of dvds gets an HD treatment, I'll always give the nod to the 960. Besides, I don't feel like buying my whole collection again just to have a similar picture on the Pioneer.

To be fair I didn't even give HD material a shot on the 960, since at the time all I had was a dvd player and Xbox 360 (no blu-ray). But I STILL remember it having a better picture than 90% of the content that I watch on this plasma (which is HD all the time since SD isn't great on it).

Oh well.. I'll keep lookin' for one in the Raleigh area.

Man you missed out, Blu-ray is outstanding on the 960. On my KDS-60A3000 Blu-rays are a little sharper and of course 60", but any movie that has decent image quality ALWAYS goes to the 960 so I can see *exactly what I'm looking at*.

Ok I finally got the 960 setup in my bedroom and it looks great. Blu ray, Xbox 360, even PS1 looks great. But I have a few concerns.

On almost every input I have to turn brightness up to at least 45-55, and so far its best at 52-55 to get rid of black crush. I cant seem to get a good balance of keeping away black crush without looking a bit washed out, any suggestions?

Whites on this thing are either really amazing or something is wrong. On certain whites in HD (lightbulbs, sunlight, flames) the whites are so strong that if I stare at them I need to squint. Its very cool but scary, it feels like its too bright and may damage the screen.

I havent touched the service menu, but probably will. Do all 960's have the same default settings? I'd like to see if the previous owner touched them.

And when you mess with the service menu, is it for each specific input and each specific picture mode? Or is it an overall thing?

I have only tweaked this thing with the built in Sony Blu Ray easter eggs, here are my HDMI settings:

Pro
Picture: 25
Brightness: 58
Color: 35
Hue: 0
Sharpness: Min
Temp: Neutral
Color Axis: Monitor

Now I do like my screens on the bright side, but I feel like I NEED to have it this high just to see dark detail. Could there be an issue?

.Hemogoblin.

Brightness should always be much lower compared to contrast (i.e, picture). IMHO, these settings being in reverse is probably the cause for your sqinting.

I'm not familiar with the easter eggs found on your bluray disc - are they like the THM Optomizer found on DVDs that contain different patterns for each user setting? Also keep in mind that what might be good for bluray might not be good for HD-TV, since the outputs are from different components (I have a HDMI switchbox and use PRO for HD and MOVIE for upconverted DVD since otherwise all user settings would need changing when switching between the two).

I tweaked the user settings for cable as follows with the help of HD test patterns stored on my DVR:

PRO, Picture 43, Brightness 27, Color 41, Hue R2, Sharpness 33, temp cool, edge off, color axis default.

Hope these suggestions help.

I also went into the service menu to callibrate service settings and found many set by the factory were way off from both, the Sony defaults and the general consenus found under the forum SONY SERVICE CODES. Be sure to refer to the chart specifically for the 960 since it covers other models as well.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Joe

I havent touched the service menu, but probably will. Do all 960's have the same default settings? I'd like to see if the previous owner touched them.It's actually unlikely that all 960's have the same "default" settings... even when they first came out of the factory. Certainly my 960 did not have the service manual defaults on it when it was brand new and first delivered years ago. Seems like Sony must have tested each one before shipping, and the pre-loaded factory defaults definitely do not match the service manual, much less from one 960 to another.


And when you mess with the service menu, is it for each specific input and each specific picture mode? Or is it an overall thing?Some settings are "global" for all inputs and resolutions, and other settings are specific to a particular input and resolution.

It is absolutely true that a number of settings also vary by picture mode, whether "global"or not. Your choice of PRO is proper to allow you to adjust things without any mode-preset interference. But you can adjust things while in a mode-preset, and it will be that preset's settings which will be remembered.


Pro
Picture: 25
Brightness: 58
Color: 35
Hue: 0
Sharpness: Min
Temp: Neutral
Color Axis: MonitorWithout looking at the corresponding service menu settings it's hard to explain why you would need 58 on brightness in the user menu. Everybody's set is a bit different, as are our tastes, viewing room environment, etc.

For example, not that it really means anything but my INPUT7 settings are:

Mode PRO
Picture 35
Brightness 32
Color 31
Hue 0
Sharpness MIN
Color Temp COOL
Clear Edge OFF
Color Axis DEFAULT

Note that I prefer color temp of "cool", which tends to produce a more bluish white. And for that, I found color axis of "default" gave me the best flesh tones... although there were four particular service menu items relating to the infamous Sony factory-provided "red push" that absolutely must be adjusted (if they haven't already been on yours) to tone down the reddish tint on skin. These four items (RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB) are in 2170P-4 section in the attached spreadsheet (service menu sheet) and are shown as "VITAL >>".

So comparing your numbers to mine or anyone else's is just for reference, not because one is right and one is wrong. Adjust things so that you're happy... but be sure to use a stationary test image from and accepted reference test source (DVD, etc.), especially for overscan adjustment and brightness/contrast and color.

Nevertheless, to help you on your way and to serve as a nice and organized starting point for "writing down" your current settings before you begin to tweak, I'm attaching my own spreadsheet for my 960, showing both (a) user-menu, and (b) service-menu. All items are shown, with my current settings values. If my settings differ from the service manual defaults, the service manual defaults are shown next to it within parentheses (so you can really see what the theoretical factory defaults are).

Finally, regarding geometry and convergence, my set's picture tube received a "magnet job" soon after it arrived... which is the only way to make certain corrections that cannot be fixed through the service menu. I was unhappy with the bowing and curvature and convergence issues out-of-the-box and arranged with Sony to have a service factory tech pay me a visit to try and fix things. That first visit was less than successful and I was quite unhappy.

I called Sony again, and they authorized a second visit but this time from a local authorized service tech of my choice, who turned out to be a really terrific well-trained and motivated person. He spent two hours (across two separate visits, because he ran out of magnets during the first visit) working on all the corners and horizontal lines, correcting curvature and convergence problems.

So my own personal geometry settings which you see in the attached spreadsheet reflect my particular picture tube post-magnet-job. Obviously your set is different, and my numbers will not really apply directly.

Still... a pre-populated complete settings spreadsheet for the 960 is definitely what you need to begin from.

Hemogoblin,

Dsperber is so right when it comes to adjustments - each set is different and user settings are so dependent upon the service adjustments. If you notice my user settings are different from Dsperber's but I'm willing to make a gentleman's wager that there is hardly a difference in the actual picture, probably due to the service settings.

And he is right - those four service adjustments affecting red push are vital and almost every post I've seen uses those same numbers.

If you use a set-up bluray or DVD, be sure all enhanacements within the player are off, including dark levels. This should work fine for both, adjusting the service menu for 1080i and the user settings for bluray/upconverted DVD. I just wish cable providers set aside an on-demand feature dedicated to setting up one's monitor with test patterns like INHD did about five years ago before going off the air (so glad I have them stored on DVR). Know I'm repeating myself but HD adjustments can differ slightly from those for bluray or upconverted DVD and turn a great picture into an even greater one, so don't be afraid to slightly fine-tune those settings a bit to see if there is any improvement on your cable or dish setup.

Sometimes it's better just to have a pro come out and touch it up, that way you know you didn't make anything worse and you are getting the most out of your set. Too bad it costs a few clams

Sometimes it's better just to have a pro come out and touch it up, that way you know you didn't make anything worse and you are getting the most out of your set. Too bad it costs a few clams

Hello,

I like your attitude! :) A pro who knows CRT can come in, focus on only what needs to be changed in the user and service menus and be done in several hours. Geometry probably takes the most time, even for a pro. In addition the pro should know where best to make compromise as a CRT is an imperfect beast by nature. Personally I won't do without CRT - I still love it. Yes calibration costs clams, but worth is relative. A calibrated XBR960 (which we own) is a beautiful display to enjoy.

Joe

Note that I prefer color temp of "cool", which tends to produce a more bluish white. And for that, I found color axis of "default" gave me the best flesh tones... although there were four particular service menu items relating to the infamous Sony factory-provided "red push" that absolutely must be adjusted (if they haven't already been on yours) to tone down the reddish tint on skin. These four items (RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB) are in 2170P-4 section in the attached spreadsheet (service menu sheet) and are shown as "VITAL >>".



Hello,

Great post.

RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB adjust the color decoder for Red and Green, respectively. Blue is done in the user menu using the color and hue controls, and must be done prior to adjusting the Red and Green color decoder controls. You can do a "blue only" mode using SM controls, which is very helpful when setting color and hue. In addition you can isolate green and red when adjusting the color decoder. A color bars pattern and color decoder adjust pattern are required for these adjustments.

I agree in that using some else's settings is not the way to go. Variability in components, materials, personal taste, etc all work against the person using another persons settings. Do your homework for a DIY project. Read, read, read!

Regards,

Joe

Regarding color temperature, I have my 960 set to cool in order to have pure white to achieve the proper brightness and picture adjustments. After adjustments are completed, does the temperature setting then become simply a matter of preference or would changing it also affect the user settings requiring adjustment once again?

Thanks as always,,
Joe

Hello,

I like your attitude! :) A pro who knows CRT can come in, focus on only what needs to be changed in the user and service menus and be done in several hours. Geometry probably takes the most time, even for a pro. In addition the pro should know where best to make compromise as a CRT is an imperfect beast by nature. Personally I won't do without CRT - I still love it. Yes calibration costs clams, but worth is relative. A calibrated XBR960 (which we own) is a beautiful display to enjoy.

Joe

Yeah I basically just put my set to warm/monitor and turned sharpness and brightness down and it's beautiful. I can't wait to have somebody come out and dial this baby in, of course as soon as I rack up a few clams

Regarding color temperature, I have my 960 set to cool in order to have pure white to achieve the proper brightness and picture adjustments. After adjustments are completed, does the temperature setting then become simply a matter of preference or would changing it also affect the user settings requiring adjustment once again?

Thanks as always,,
Joe

Hello Joe,

Changing color temperature may change the brightness and, tp a lesser extent contrast (Picture). If you recheck Brightness after changing the color temperature preset you should be fine. Other user controls should stay the same.

Regards,

Joe

Yeah I basically just put my set to warm/monitor and turned sharpness and brightness down and it's beautiful. I can't wait to have somebody come out and dial this baby in, of course as soon as I rack up a few clams

Hello,

Please feel free to contact me. I service the Toledo area.

Regards,

Joe

Hello Joe,

Changing color temperature may change the brightness and, tp a lesser extent contrast (Picture). If you recheck Brightness after changing the color temperature preset you should be fine. Other user controls should stay the same.

Regards,

Joe

That's good to know and I'll give it a try on neutral. Will let you know if I did indeed need to change picture and brightness using those test patterns.

Oh, BTW, my color axis is set to monitor, not default as originally posted. Agree with everyone who says default places too much emphasis on red, however, I did notice a smaller difference between the two after having the set callibrated.

Thanks to Joe from Joe.

UPDATE:

Joe,

Just as you said - minute changes were required with brightness slightly more than picture and the rest of the settings remaining the same.

For HD, the test patterns indicated the picture needed lowering by one digit and brightness three; for upconverted DVD, picture was also lowered by one digit with the brightness raised by two (due to the player's output set to dark).

Picture looks great no matter what the color temperature and since it is a matter of preference (not callibration or proper adjustment) am keeping it at neutral for a while.

That's good to know and I'll give it a try on neutral. Will let you know if I did indeed need to change picture and brightness using those test patterns.

Oh, BTW, my color axis is set to monitor, not default as originally posted. Agree with everyone who says default places too much emphasis on red, however, I did notice a smaller difference between the two after having the set callibrated.

Thanks to Joe from Joe.

UPDATE:

Joe,

Just as you said - minute changes were required with brightness slightly more than picture and the rest of the settings remaining the same.

For HD, the test patterns indicated the picture needed lowering by one digit and brightness three; for upconverted DVD, picture was also lowered by one digit with the brightness raised by two (due to the player's output set to dark).

Picture looks great no matter what the color temperature and since it is a matter of preference (not callibration or proper adjustment) am keeping it at neutral for a while.

Hi Joe,

Glad it worked out! After a grayscale calibration the calibrator must check user brightness for exactly the same scenario - altering color temperature cuts and drives can affect brightness and to a lesser extent contrast. You're right about color axis default/monitor. Default is awful and is meant for a showroom. Monitor produces a toned down red (less red push), but it can be made better via service menu intervention. But for the user Monitor is a great option!

Regards,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Glad it worked out! After a grayscale calibration the calibrator must check user brightness for exactly the same scenario - altering color temperature cuts and drives can affect brightness and to a lesser extent contrast. You're right about color axis default/monitor. Default is awful and is meant for a showroom. Monitor produces a toned down red (less red push), but it can be made better via service menu intervention. But for the user Monitor is a great option!

Regards,

Joe

Hi Joe,

That explains that while there was the slight but obvious difference on overall color it didn't offset the color saturation and tint on the test patterns viewed through the blue-filter glasses.

It also brought out a bit of silver-type shading on some graphics (i.e., the THX logo on DVDs) which was probably blocked out by the blue tint of the cool temperature.

Thanks again.

Joe

Hi Joe,

That explains that while there was the slight but obvious difference on overall color it didn't offset the color saturation and tint on the test patterns viewed through the blue-filter glasses.

Correct! Grayscale (color temperature) and color/tint are independent functions. Changing grayscale shouldn't change color and tint.


It also brought out a bit of silver-type shading on some graphics (i.e., the THX logo on DVDs) which was probably blocked out by the blue tint of the cool temperature.

Thanks again.

Joe

You have a good eye. Getting color temperature closer to D65 removes color bias. Grayscale calibration is the process of setting the color coordinates to D65 from black light level to bright white light level. That's why it's called grayscale, as we try to adjust over the entire range of brightness. Removing color bias through grayscale calibration produces a neutral canvas on which to lay down color. The result of grayscale calibration is you end up seeing positive differences in unusual colors, like silver, tan, gold, brown, etc. I could go on. When you went from Cool to Neutral you went closer to D65.

Combining correct grayscale with aligned color decoder controls makes overall color performance that much better because now red/green push/pull is eliminated as well!

Regards,

Joe

Hello,

Here's a calibration report of a Sony KV-34XBR960.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/KV-34XBR960Calreport.jpg

The both pre and post calibration results are shown. The upper left graph in each page shows the color temperature, with the white line (reference) showing 6500 K. The lower left chart shows how each RBG "Gun" relates to the other. Ideally each RBG color will lay on top of the others all through the brightness. BTW as you move on the X axis from left to right the brightness goes from near black (10 IRE) to bright white (100 IRE). This is a very well behaved display and capable of excellent color reproduction.

If you want to see a better rendition of this report with more explanation look here http://www.summithdtv.com/sample_reports.htm. There are a couple XBR960 reports listed under Sony.

Regards,

Joe

You have a good eye.

That's because I had cateracts removed in both of them.:)

Joe, enjoyed reading all that information regarding temperature and greyscale.

Joe

Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.
I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.

Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.
I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.

Thanks TeeJay! Great to hear from you again. I liked your display so much we bought one! We've been very happy with it.

Joe

Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.
I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.

TeeJay,

This evening my wife was watching QVC-HD (as always) on the 960. When she came into the den I turned it on for her on our LCD. My better half pointed out how tan the program host was and mentioned she appeared even darker in the living room. Out of curiousity I turned on the 960 and immediately saw not only a deeper tan but detail in skin pigmentation on her face, arms and hands that was not apparent on the LCD

The moral of this story? Remember the old adage about getting what you're wishing for......

All things being equal, which is better or worse, getting a 960 with the anti-reflective coating partially worn off, and then having to remove it all chemically or mechanically, which I assume will be the condition of any current 960, ...

or a 960N with no coating or a permanent coating, whichever it has (I never could get to the bottom of whether the N has no coating at all or if it has a permanent coating baked on or etched in)?

All things being equal, which is better or worse, getting a 960 with the anti-reflective coating partially worn off, and then having to remove it all chemically or mechanically, which I assume will be the condition of any current 960, ...

or a 960N with no coating or a permanent coating, whichever it has (I never could get to the bottom of whether the N has no coating at all or if it has a permanent coating baked on or etched in)?

The 960N has internal anti-glare as opposed to the external coating of the 960. Since both utilize anti-reflective protection, you would be better off with the N model rather than a 960 that eventually will have the coating removed.

A tiny portion of the coating is worn off on our set and since it is close to a corner is only noticable at a certain viewing angle. Being so small, it appears only as reflection, not altering the picture quality at all.

Anyone know if the 960 supports hdmi control or bravia sync as sony calls it?

Anyone know if the 960 supports hdmi control or bravia sync as sony calls it?

960's too old for those features.

Purchased the Samsung LN32B360 for the den.I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.

I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.

In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.

Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.

And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.

And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.

My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.

I know you said you thought the 720p Samsung was fine, but now that it's been a few months I'm wondering if your original feelings have perhaps evolved somewhat?

I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.

I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.

In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.

Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.

And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.

And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.

My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.

I know you said you thought the 720p Samsung was fine, but now that it's been a few months I'm wondering if your original feelings have perhaps evolved somewhat?

Not at all. At 720p the Samsung's picture is sharp and the colors are great. I have everything input at 1080i/p.

It's fine for a second HT system (obviously it's not the 960) and at 32 inches, I don't see how the color and picture could be sharper at 1080p resolution.

But again, displaying a signal at 720p is different than accepting a signal at that same resolution. The Samsung does accept signals up to 1080p and on both that and the 960 I have everything output at that higher resolution. I have experimented on the 960 - a downconverted 720p input appears too soft and the color is flatter. I've also noticed that HD broadcasts at 720p when upconverted to 1080i by the cable box are also crisper than being left alone.

I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.

I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.

In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.

Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.

And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.

And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.

My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.



It's interesting to see this report, but really not at all surprising. (And I suspect you've got very high standards.)

Any signal processing/converting will inevitably introduce some distortion, reduce signal/noise, etc. So, no matter how good the quality of the conversion, you're always better off bypassing additional conversion steps. The '960 is a wonderful device, but it can't perform noiseless conversions.

Mark

Hello,

Just for kicks I did the precision focus on our XBR960 today then followed up with convergence. Kentech really did a great job documenting many of these procedures. I had done them all (except focus pot adjust) but a touch up every now and then is beneficial.

After drilling a small hole in the side of our display and using a screwdriver to adjust the focus pot I found out the factory focus wasn't too far off. Is it better? Yes. Was it bad? No. Regardless it's better now and worth the investment of time. After adjusting the focus pot you should go through a focus adjustment as described for the 2170D-4 memory area. Since the focus pot and these memory areas interact anyway they should be treated as one adjustment.

Any time you adjust focus on a CRT device you should check convergence afterward for subsequent convergence errors. This time the convergence was thrown off via focus adjustment and I had to go over convergence a couple times to set it back to right.

I've always fought with our display because of the magenta and green blotches. I once again tried to minimize landing errors and succeeded. Landing takes time to get one's arms around. Back and forth with the Landing controls, making sure you see the effect on the overall screen uniformity.

Here are some pics. The slight trapezoid error shown is a result of camera angle and not present in the image. You will also see slight curvature of the lines. This curvature must be corrected via magnets. Also there are no horizontal convergence correction registers so magnets are necessary to correct this error also.

Convergence
Always strive to push convergence errors to the edge or corner of the display. You can see the worst corner is the lower left. Although I could have improved the corner performance, convergence would have been made worse at the whole left hand bottom side of the image. When adjusting convergence on this display you are placed in a position where you must choose Red or Blue to align with Green. It would be nice if Red and Blue have their own convergence controls, but Sony did not design the controls with that much flexibility. So you're better off aligning Red to Green and letting Blue float.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5950.jpg

Overscan
I performed overscan reduction a while ago and here it is!

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5953.jpg

Linearitry
Circles!!

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5952.jpg

Crosshatch with dots. Please note the fine dot!

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5951.jpg

Taking photos of a direct view CRT image is very difficult. I did manage to get one good shot that shows the excellent black this set can offer. Here it is.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5943_edited-1.jpg

Split gray pattern showing color of gray (correct grayscale)

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu272/summit_hdtv/_DSC5959.jpg


These sets are not yet at their 1/2 life and ISF calibration is a worthy investment for these beautiful CRT jewels! Make sure you can find an ISF calibrator that knows how to do these adjustments.

Regards,

Joe

Taking photos of a direct view CRT image is very difficult.Looks like test patterns from DisplayMate.

I've not been successful taking pictures of my 960... in particular the color in the resulting images really doesn't match that which I see on screen. I need to play with manual white balance adjustments to get a good image.

But your shots make me want to give it a second try, more serious this time with a little effort spent setting up the camera/lens correctly (Nikon D300).

I also have DisplayMate on my PC, which is only a long component video cable away from the 960. I have an ATI video card with a DVI-to-component adapter and a 30-foot component video cable I bought years ago when I thought I wanted the ability to drive my 960 from my computer. So I can send out all of these test images from the computer... and see if I can photograph the results.

In particular I've never had an ISF calibration, though I did have a wonderfully successful magnet job when I first acquired my set. Between that effort plus my adjustments in the service menu I must say curvature and bowing on horizontal lines is quite minor on my 960, with just the lower-right corner being a current small culprit.

I'd like to review my geometry/convergence with the DisplayMate test patterns since I haven't done that in a very long time. Let's see if I can take decent pictures.

Looks like test patterns from DisplayMate.

I've not been successful taking pictures of my 960... in particular the color in the resulting images really doesn't match that which I see on screen. I need to play with manual white balance adjustments to get a good image.

But your shots make me want to give it a second try, more serious this time with a little effort spent setting up the camera/lens correctly (Nikon D300).

I also have DisplayMate on my PC, which is only a long component video cable away from the 960. I have an ATI video card with a DVI-to-component adapter and a 30-foot component video cable I bought years ago when I thought I wanted the ability to drive my 960 from my computer. So I can send out all of these test images from the computer... and see if I can photograph the results.

In particular I've never had an ISF calibration, though I did have a wonderfully successful magnet job when I first acquired my set. Between that effort plus my adjustments in the service menu I must say curvature and bowing on horizontal lines is quite minor on my 960, with just the lower-right corner being a current small culprit.

I'd like to review my geometry/convergence with the DisplayMate test patterns since I haven't done that in a very long time. Let's see if I can take decent pictures.

Hello,

The test patterns are from a Sencore VP403 pattern generator. It's the one I use in calibrations. The camera used is a Nikon D200 with a 50 mm F1.8 AF lens and tripod. I agree with you the color can come out funky (oversaturated?) and not represent what you see on the screen. In fact that happened to me today and I played with saturation and white balance in Elements. It's the resulting vertical lines that I don't like either. So yes, it's a hit or miss proposition to get a decent photo.

Oh how I wish I knew how to do magnets! I don't think it's likely that difficult, but I think it's best to learn from someone that knows how to do it and eliminate all the guesswork involved.

Regards,

Joe

Hello,

My wife and I just watched some of the CMA Awards tonight and the precision focus and convergence adjust procedures made a big difference in overall picture quality. There's more detail and the image is more crisp. Small text at the bottom of the screen is more readable. It's definitely worth burning a few hours of time to do these procedures. Pass the popcorn.

Regards,

Joe

Are the overall test patterns found in the 960's service menu reliable enough? I once experimented with the set's internal cross-hatch pattern and found an external one yielded much better geometric results. The curviture is quite minimal on my set,, even in the extreme corners (guess the factory technicians got the magnet settings right) wheras adjustments based on the 960's generated pattern caused extensive bowing toward the right when watching an actual picture.

Also found keeping the internal edge enhancement (not user) flat helped better adjust the service items related to focus - I'm way too chicken to drill a hole and fool around with the focus pot to make it any more precise than that.

Ken Tech's spreadsheets and the Sony Service Code forum are God-sends. So many factory-made adjustments were so way off compared to either the Sony or Ken Tech suggestions that it was easy to see the difference after settling on what appeared best for my set. While I might have lucked out with the magnets, I especially remember the overscan, vertical centering and geometric settings done in the factory were way off.

Are the overall test patterns found in the 960's service menu reliable enough? I once experimented with the set's internal cross-hatch pattern and found an external one yielded much better geometric results. The curviture is quite minimal on my set,, even in the extreme corners (guess the factory technicians got the magnet settings right) wheras adjustments based on the 960's generated pattern caused extensive bowing toward the right when watching an actual picture.

Also found keeping the internal edge enhancement (not user) flat helped better adjust the service items related to focus - I'm way too chicken to drill a hole and fool around with the focus pot to make it any more precise than that.

Ken Tech's spreadsheets and the Sony Service Code forum are God-sends. So many factory-made adjustments were so way off compared to either the Sony or Ken Tech suggestions that it was easy to see the difference after settling on what appeared best for my set. While I might have lucked out with the magnets, I especially remember the overscan, vertical centering and geometric settings done in the factory were way off.

Hi Joe,

I never used the internal Sony test patterns. When we calibrate we were taught to go all the way through the video chain if possible. So if I use a DVD calibration disk the DVD player and cable(s) are included in the calibration. Personally I consider internal patterns to be unreliable because you can't relate them to the input.

Drilling the hole wasn't that big of a deal. Actually the plastic caught the drill bit and pulled it in :eek:. However there's nothing in that area so no harm - no foul:). It's a fairly low risk procedure. Maybe I'll snap a photo and post it.

In every 960/970 I've encountered the factory settings related to overscan and geometry never were close to proper!

Regards,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I never used the internal Sony test patterns. When we calibrate we were taught to go all the way through the video chain if possible. So if I use a DVD calibration disk the DVD player and cable(s) are included in the calibration. Personally I consider internal patterns to be unreliable because you can't relate them to the input.

Drilling the hole wasn't that big of a deal. Actually the plastic caught the drill bit and pulled it in :eek:. However there's nothing in that area so no harm - no foul:). It's a fairly low risk procedure. Maybe I'll snap a photo and post it.

In every 960/970 I've encountered the factory settings related to overscan and geometry never were close to proper!

Regards,

Joe

Thanks Joe.

It was my theory that patterns from the inputed source would be more true and precise than those generated from the set. That's why I saved on my DVR hard drive the HD test patterns broadcasted by the old INHD station. Would not have been able to get the precise service and user settings required for the HD cable input using a DVD set-up disc (upconverted to 1080i) and would have been impossible to correct the overscan and then re-adjust the geometry accordingly (as we know, changes in the horizontal and vertical size causes bowing) without those or a set-up disc.

Hey all, I have a couple of things to discuss. Xbox 360 setup and convergence

Regarding the 360:
I have it hooked up to HDMI
-Does anyone have any insight on setting the 360 systems resolution? (720p or 1080i)
-Also, any opinion on the display settings: Reference levels, and HDMI Color Space? Most of the discussions I found searching around online never really came to any consensus, just a lot of back and forth opinions

regarding convergence, I have been using KenTechs patterns over MS. I understand this set is quite aged by now but, some of the improvements came from rather large changes. For example:
D-CONV
3-RUMB (Original:23) My ideal setting was 5
5-RLMB (O:15) Ideal: 0
9-LUBW (O:21) Ideal: 10


There are a few others like that but you get the idea, are others seeing this? or am I missing some prerequisite to setting convergence?

Hey all, I have a couple of things to discuss. Xbox 360 setup and convergenceCan't comment on Xbox. Don't own one.


regarding convergence, I have been using KenTechs patterns over MS. I understand this set is quite aged by now but, some of the improvements came from rather large changes. For example:
D-CONV
3-RUMB (Original:23) My ideal setting was 5
5-RLMB (O:15) Ideal: 0
9-LUBW (O:21) Ideal: 10Everybody's set is a bit different... this is an analog device. Also, some user's sets have undergone magnet work to correct some video bowing and curvature artifacts that can only be corrected physically in this manner and not through the service menu. But these magnet corrections will also have an affect on convergence, so service menu compensations and attempts at further correction will cause the numbers on those sets to vary widely from sets that have not undergone the same magnet work.

So... just for example... here are my relevant D-CONV numbers for 1080i and HDMI INPUT-7 (although I believe these settings are "global" and do not vary by input or resolution). Again, I provide these only for contrast to yours, and to show you what mine look like. NOTE: my set HAS had magnet work performed on it.

The columns are item#, item, range, my current value, and (service manual default) if I have changed it.

0 YBWU 0-63 38 (31) Upper Ybow
1 YBWL 0-63 38 (31) Lower Ybow
2 RSAP 0-63 31 Right H amp (offset)
3 RUMB 0-63 27 (31) Right upper middle bow
4 RUBW 0-63 0 (31) Right upper bow
5 RLMB 0-63 27 (31) Right lower middle bow
6 RLBW 0-63 27 (31) Right lower bow
7 LSAP 0-63 25 (31) Left H amp (offset)
8 LUMB 0-63 11 (31) Left upper middle bow
9 LUBW 0-63 14 (31) Left upper bow
10 LLMB 0-63 26 (31) Left lower middle bow
11 LLBW 0-63 23 (31) Left lower bow

On the 960 there are no problems watching material from HD stations (HBO-HD, etc) recorded onto a DVD-R and then played back upconverted to 1080i but on my LCD (Samsung LN32B360) movement is neither smooth or natural. The DVD player has to be set to 480p for it to appear natural (picture quality is better as well). There are no problems with movement or picture quality watching actual HD programs from the cable box, recordings made from SD stations upconverted to 1080p or upconverted commercial DVDs

Is the un-natural motion due to HD signals being downconverted for recording and then upconverted for playback for which the 960, being a CRT with superior scaling and line doubling, is able to eliminate? More curious than anything else.

Thanks as always,
Joe

This is still my dream TV.. & haven't seen any display that can touch it in the under 40inch range.. I love CRT.. I own a 04 Samsung HDTV, & it embarrasses my fathers 08 61inch Samsung DLP. The blacks/Contrast/color saturation.

My just-shy-of-5-years-old KV-34XBR960 died. When it's turned on the LED flashes but there's no picture. I'm disgusted with Sony and moving on. This was much too expensive a TV to die before it's even 5 years old. Anyway, I have the matching stand, also. If anyone is interested in the nonworking TV and/or the matching stand, and they can pick it up in Carrollton, NW of Dallas, just send me a PM. Otherwise, they are going to the junk pile.

My just-shy-of-5-years-old KV-34XBR960 died. When it's turned on the LED flashes but there's no picture. I'm disgusted with Sony and moving on. This was much too expensive a TV to die before it's even 5 years old. Anyway, I have the matching stand, also. If anyone is interested in the nonworking TV and/or the matching stand, and they can pick it up in Carrollton, NW of Dallas, just send me a PM. Otherwise, they are going to the junk pile.


Repair is always an option, last I checked Sony still warehouses parts for this tv. Chances are it's a circuit board or something that has gone wrong. The blinking light is a service code that you can look up in the XBR960 service manual. Parts do show up on ebay from time to time for very cheap; it may be a simple DIY job or a local repair shop could possibly fix it for $200 or so. You wont know unless you inquire.

Tons of people like me are in need of the XBR960 stand, please put it on ebay and sell it. You should get a nice $$ for it.

I have a copy of the service manual, 14mb PDF. PM for details.


http://www.free-service-manuals.com/Television/Sony/DA-4_Chassis/Sony_KD-34XBR960_Service_Manual_L69739/


http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=31569

This is still my dream TV.. & haven't seen any display that can touch it in the under 40inch range.. I love CRT.. I own a 04 Samsung HDTV, & it embarrasses my fathers 08 61inch Samsung DLP. The blacks/Contrast/color saturation.

Agree and when we purchased our own LCD we were able to confirm how big a gap in picture quality between the two technologies there really is.

Not to sound critical of LCD - we are happy with the set for our secondary HT system and the vivid picture we have. Will even admit our 32 inch LCD has just as sharp a picture as our 960. However, it's sharp picture also lacks the amount of enhanced detail (facial hair, etc.) seen on the by the 960. It lacks depth and the three-dimensional "feel" (due to the reasons you mentioned) and there is something un-natural about live broadcasts - while they don't appear "film-like" they also do not to naturally "video-like" as well.

But when Plasma (considered the best of the new flat screen technologies) is still advertised as coming close to a CRT..., well, that says it all.

Agree and when we purchased our own LCD we were able to confirm how big a gap in picture quality between the two technologies there really is.

Not to sound critical of LCD - we are happy with the set for our secondary HT system and the vivid picture we have. Will even admit our 32 inch LCD has just as sharp a picture as our 960. However, it's sharp picture also lacks the amount of enhanced detail (facial hair, etc.) seen on the by the 960. It lacks depth and the three-dimensional "feel" (due to the reasons you mentioned) and there is something un-natural about live broadcasts - while they don't appear "film-like" they also do not to naturally "video-like" as well.

But when Plasma (considered the best of the new flat screen technologies) is still advertised as coming close to a CRT..., well, that says it all.

Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.

Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.

Usefull life span is a pretty important metric.

Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.

With large-screen OLEDs still only in the development stage, it might be a bit premature to conclude it will be the leader in all aspects of video monitor technology. Even sites like "OLED" and "How It Works" aren't making that claim as of yet. And don't forget the same was said when Plasma, LCD and DSP were introduced (with the added proviso that CRT technology had become outdated).

For the vast majority of consumers, their experience with CRT was limited to standard definition 4x3 with their introduction to HD being a flat panel instead. Few have actually seen HD picture quality on a CRT and don't realize what they're missing. Instead, they are getting exactly as advertised -- a "flat" looking picture, sacrificing picture quality for size.

And for now, the 960 still reigns supreme. We just finished watching "Avitar" and even just on DVD (480i upconverted to 1080i) the picture was drop-dead gorgeous. When playing the same disc on our LCD (with upconversion set to 1080p) the picture was sharp and colorful but noticably lacked the impact that blew our minds on the "bulky and out-dated" CRT.

Recently I hooked up our 960 to a 5.1 receiver, using the digital out on the back of the TV to watch broadcast HD with digital audio. Unfortunately, the receiver introduces a minor delay to the audio. I have not been able to find any sort of picture delay built into the TV. Is there any way to fix this without using a separate HD tuner box?

Recently I hooked up our 960 to a 5.1 receiver, using the digital out on the back of the TV to watch broadcast HD with digital audio. Unfortunately, the receiver introduces a minor delay to the audio. I have not been able to find any sort of picture delay built into the TV. Is there any way to fix this without using a separate HD tuner box?

Check your receiver for you're probably not even getting 5.1 - the audio output from the 960 is 2.0 only. This is why most of us not having receivers with HDMI inputs/outputs have the audio sent directly from the box to the receiver.

With large-screen OLEDs still only in the development stage, it might be a bit premature to conclude it will be the leader in all aspects of video monitor technology. Even sites like "OLED" and "How It Works" aren't making that claim as of yet. And don't forget the same was said when Plasma, LCD and DSP were introduced (with the added proviso that CRT technology had become outdated).

For the vast majority of consumers, their experience with CRT was limited to standard definition 4x3 with their introduction to HD being a flat panel instead. Few have actually seen HD picture quality on a CRT and don't realize what they're missing. Instead, they are getting exactly as advertised -- a "flat" looking picture, sacrificing picture quality for size.

And for now, the 960 still reigns supreme. We just finished watching "Avitar" and even just on DVD (480i upconverted to 1080i) the picture was drop-dead gorgeous. When playing the same disc on our LCD (with upconversion set to 1080p) the picture was sharp and colorful but noticably lacked the impact that blew our minds on the "bulky and out-dated" CRT.

Which LCD this? For all we know it's some cheesy crap brand, or a really old model.

Fact is the small screen size really helps with the picture on these CRT's and any name brand from the last few years, when setup right can match or exceed the PQ from CRTs. I watched the Avatar bluray on my sony CRT and while it looked awesome, I have no doubt it would have looked so much more impressive on even a 4 series 50" Samsung plasma.

The uneven focus that affects pretty much all large screen Flat Tube sets means a lot of detail was probably lost as well.

Which LCD this? For all we know it's some cheesy crap brand, or a really old model.

Fact is the small screen size really helps with the picture on these CRT's and any name brand from the last few years, when setup right can match or exceed the PQ from CRTs. I watched the Avatar bluray on my sony CRT and while it looked awesome, I have no doubt it would have looked so much more impressive on even a 4 series 50" Samsung plasma.

The uneven focus that affects pretty much all large screen Flat Tube sets means a lot of detail was probably lost as well.

Hi Tom,

It happens to be a Samsung 32 inch manufactured last November, not a cheesy, crap brand and it has been properly tweeked. :) Remember I didn't deny it provided an impressively sharp and colorful picture but added that it simply lacked the punch that made the same DVD appear drop-dead gorgeous on the 960 (and the LCD is actualy two inches smaller than the 960).

Added detail would do that to a picture.

Big screen HD monitors of course have great picture quality but they still lack certain features inherent in CRT technology that enables a well designed HD tube set to provide that extra element of detail which cannot be reproduced by the others. In addition, with its high black and contrast levels, line-doubling, super fine-pitch tube, etc., the 960 has a deeper, richer and more life-like picture with a three-dimensional feel that flat screens (along with all other tube sets) do not.

When criticism is limited to weight, bulkiness and the size of its screen...., well, that says a lot about why the 960 is still regarded as a reference after so many years.

Check your receiver for you're probably not even getting 5.1 - the audio output from the 960 is 2.0 only. This is why most of us not having receivers with HDMI inputs/outputs have the audio sent directly from the box to the receiver.

I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...

I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.
The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.

My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.

I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...

I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.
The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.

My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.

Thanks for clarification and sorry you're still experiencing problems with audio/video synchronization.

Am sorry that we cannot offer any advice since we use the cable box with only it's optical out going to the receiver so all video is sent directly to the 960 via HDMI. Does the problem occur with the feed going directly into the 960 (without any connection to the receiver) and listening through the Sony's built-in speakers? Have read where switching problems (?) cause some audio/video receivers to be subject to audio lag.

I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...

I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.
The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.

My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.

No, to my knowledge there is no adjustment on the '960 for video delay.

I'm surprised you have been able to notice the audio delay through your system. In all probability, it is due only a very small delay due to a digital processor in your audio amplifier (the audio needs to be sampled--delayed--in order to be digitized and processed). In all probability, it is a very small delay, most likely on the order of one field or frame (1/60th or 1/30th. second). Most people would not be able to notice this. In fact, it might even be beneficial on many programs. (see next paragraph)

I'm surprised no one seems to be upset--as I am--by the frequent and varying VIDEO delays seen on broadcast TV today. I notice this almost every day. And it is almost always the audio that is ahead of the video. This even appears often on network news programs. I thought this would clear up once the analog signals were turned off and the broadcast engineers could devote more attention to the digital channels. But I haven't seen much improvement yet. I know there are adjustable audio delay devices, but these are controlled manually. Apparently we will need to live with this problem a few more years before we see devices that synch audio and video automatically.


Mark

I'd say the biggest difference is the lines of resolution. Not trying to be a jerk

I thought the 910 and the 960 had the same tube. How does the 960 have more lines?

I thought the 910 and the 960 had the same tube. How does the 960 have more lines?

According to the two manuals, both have the SFP picture tube. The 910 does not have a CableCARD slot, however.:)

I believe I read the 960 has 800 lines of horizontal resolution but this now appears on Sony's site:

>>>>>>>>>
The specification for horizontal lines of resolution, as it relates to televisions, is not standardized in the electronics industry. The procedure used by one manufacturer to determine this specification is most likely different than the procedure used by another company to provide this specification. Because manufacturers do not use the same procedure for measuring television lines of resolution, Sony does not provide this specification.
<<<<<<<<

FYI.

Just curious if anyone found a user or service setting that reduces horizontal bleeding on these sets. It's the sort of problem that shows up on every CRT I've ever owned and even on most Plasma sets. It happens any time there is a high contrast image shown on a darker/gray background. You will notice a shadow-like horizontal band that stretches left to right of the same height as the high contrast object.

I don't have a camera near my TV but there is a good discussion of it in the plasma forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1083853

Another good image of the effect here:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/804255/floatingblacks.jpg

and here:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1297/1338657277_736bdf992c_b.jpg

Hello everyone,

Since I bought my 960 (used) I haven't been able to pick up OTA HD channels. I used the scanning function from the system menu but after sitting for a few minutes no channels were detected. I've left it for the hour that the set suggests but still, no channels get saved, or apparently detected.

Looking through the manual hasn't helped me much on this, it just mentions that there is an HD antenna in the set.

Is there something I'm missing here? Do I need additional hardware or to 'enable' the antenna somehow?

Any help would be much appreciated.

You need an antenna. the antenna connects via the coax connector. Go to antennaweb.org to get recommendations for which antenna to get depending on your zip code and desired OTA stations

To be a little more clearer...
Your TV has a built in HD (ATSC) "tuner", not a built in "antenna". You will need an antenna to receive signals to send to the tuner. ;)

Thanks for the quick responses. Apparently for my area I should find a "Small Multidirectional Antenna"

I'll get looking, thanks again!

Agreed-

there are many HDTV antenna and HDTV DIY antenna forums out there that can provide you with valuable info...

A follow-up from a infrequent poster.

Since 2006 when Chad B. calibrated my 960, I have been extremely pleased. I have never had a service call or repair, which was the main concern way back then from all the posts here.

I have continued to swing by 2-3 stores ever so often looking for a better picture as technology advances, and none have come close to the clarity and color accuracy of this calibrated 960. (My HD sources are Verizon FIOS and OPPO 83 Blu-Ray)

Till now.

I will be keeping my 960 but it will be moved to the bedroom, just in case.:D

Replacing it in the main room will be a Sharp LC-40LE810UN. Hopefully, I can get Chad back to do his magic again.

There is a thread on the Sharp if anyone wants to check it out.

Is it 100% on par with the CRT? No, but the PQ comes as close as I have seen given the inherent differences in the two technologies, and trying to keep the price reasonable.


All IMHO of course.









Disclaimer:
I have no financial interests in either Sony, Sharp, or Verizon.

I will investigate but I have almost zero percent faith any LCD *ever* will come close. Like I said though I will look it up

Hi RM,

Am sure you will be happy with your new Sharp but note there are still differences that distinguish CRT quality from that of LCD/LED even with both callibrated properly. I've found the advantage of LCD/LED technology is perfect geometry resulting in a slightly sharper picture, however, even with that slightly sharper picture, it masks a lot of small detail that the 960 brings out (i.e., skin pigmentations, clusters of sand and grass, minute carvings in wood, etc.). LCD/LEDs also have beautiful color but not as rich as the 960 due to its high performance contrast and black levels and super-fine pitch tube which is also responsible for its depth in dimension.

But keep in mind that even after all these years, the 960 is still considered reference grade and therefore shouldn't be used as a comparision to most others (no matter what the technology) and take away the pleasure and enjoyment one can get from them -- I also have a Samsung LCD for our other HT set-up and am very happy with it's performance. One reference-grade monitor is more than enough for my blood.

My 960 is in the basement; but I have a 36KD955xs in the family room which has very similar display properties.

Recently purchased a 1080p DLP projector (HC3800), and due to limitations in my theater room when I am using it I set up side-by-side with a 96 inch screen in the family room.

Big mistake. Other than being bigger, the Sony SFP trounces the Mitsubishi in quality and detail/sharpness (and of course inky blacks) when watching 1080i (HBO/Showtime etc). Neither is professionally calibrated, but I can only stand watching the HC3800 @ 1080p from a blu-ray. For any normal 1080i broadcast material the defects are too obvious to keep the SONY on without really diminishing the experience for the DLP

Hi RM,

Am sure you will be happy with your new Sharp but note there are still differences that distinguish CRT quality from that of LCD/LED even with both callibrated properly. I've found the advantage of LCD/LED technology is perfect geometry resulting in a slightly sharper picture, however, even with that slightly sharper picture, it masks a lot of small detail that the 960 brings out (i.e., skin pigmentations, clusters of sand and grass, minute carvings in wood, etc.). LCD/LEDs also have beautiful color but not as rich as the 960 due to its high performance contrast and black levels and super-fine pitch tube which is also responsible for its depth in dimension.

But keep in mind that even after all these years, the 960 is still considered reference grade and therefore shouldn't be used as a comparision to most others (no matter what the technology) and take away the pleasure and enjoyment one can get from them -- I also have a Samsung LCD for our other HT set-up and am very happy with it's performance. One reference-grade monitor is more than enough for my blood.




Yes, no question about it, the 960 is reference quality. Yet, my point was till this Sharp showed up, I never looked twice at the new LCDs/Plasmas since there was no hint of coming close to the CRTs performance. Now there is, IMHO, and at a reasonable cost.

Yes, no question about it, the 960 is reference quality. Yet, my point was till this Sharp showed up, I never looked twice at the new LCDs/Plasmas since there was no hint of coming close to the CRTs performance. Now there is, IMHO, and at a reasonable cost.

Yes, they have come a long way in picture quality. Again, the 960 is reference but the really good flat panels have enough to stand on their own. Enjoy!:)

I have an excelent condition 34XBR906 for sale. Date of Manufacture: July 2004. I purchased it from a friend for $300 and will sell for the same price.
I can Email some pictures.

The set is near Richmond (Chester), VA, but It can be picked up in Cary, NC, sometime in July. May be able to deliver in Raleigh/Cary area if timing is right.

I will be moving to AZ soon and don't want to deal with moving a 200# TV.


doherrick

It is just unfair to compare a 96 inch screen to a 36 inch CRT. With 7 times as much as area, any defects in 1080i programs will be magnified 7 times on HC3800.


Big mistake. Other than being bigger, the Sony SFP trounces the Mitsubishi in quality and detail/sharpness (and of course inky blacks) when watching 1080i (HBO/Showtime etc). Neither is professionally calibrated, but I can only stand watching the HC3800 @ 1080p from a blu-ray. For any normal 1080i broadcast material the defects are too obvious to keep the SONY on without really diminishing the experience for the DLP

Another addition to the list of available 34XBR960's

I have one with the matching stand in excellent condition located in Broward County, Florida.

I've been thinking of buying the local version of the 910/960 (the HR36) second hand but I'm concerned about a couple of things.

The first is flicker; I'd be using it in 1080i/50 mode so I was wondering whether the flicker would be similar to the levels from a standard definition TV at 50hz or if it would be worse? I previously had a Phillps CRT which would apparently use the 1080i/50 screenmode when fed a 576p signal and the flicker was the worst I've ever seen from a TV and quite unwatchable. Was what I experienced from the Phillips the norm from 1080i below 60hz? The broadcast system here is 50fps so the level of flicker from 1080i/60 is not relevant to me.

The second is burn-in. How prone to burn-in are these TVs; would they be darkend after 4 to 6 years' usage? Widescreen broadcasting only started here 3 years ago, so I'm concerned about whether these Sony Trinitron widescreen TVs would have a darkened square in the middle where the 4:3 picture goes.
The decade plus years old Panasonics I have now both have to have their brightness turned up to see the image because of burn it.

Thanks

I've been thinking of buying the local version of the 910/960 (the HR36) second hand but I'm concerned about a couple of things.

The first is flicker; I'd be using it in 1080i/50 mode so I was wondering whether the flicker would be similar to the levels from a standard definition TV at 50hz or if it would be worse? I previously had a Phillps CRT which would apparently use the 1080i/50 screenmode when fed a 576p signal and the flicker was the worst I've ever seen from a TV and quite unwatchable. Was what I experienced from the Phillips the norm from 1080i below 60hz? The broadcast system here is 50fps so the level of flicker from 1080i/60 is not relevant to me.

The second is burn-in. How prone to burn-in are these TVs; would they be darkend after 4 to 6 years' usage? Widescreen broadcasting only started here 3 years ago, so I'm concerned about whether these Sony Trinitron widescreen TVs would have a darkened square in the middle where the 4:3 picture goes.
The decade plus years old Panasonics I have now both have to have their brightness turned up to see the image because of burn it.

Thanks

I am sensitive to flicker and don't notice it on this tv. I have logged tons of hours of gaming with my PS3 and have yet to see any signs of burn in. To burn an image in to the screen, you would have to leave a static image on the screen for two days or more. Any time you start to see burn (i have yet to), it can easily be remedied (as long as its in the early stages) by playing static or snow on the screen for many hours or a day.

My particular example of a xbr960 and the others I have seen is pretty good at creating a fairly uniform image across the screen.

That's encouraging. But doesn't the North American PS3 output gameplay via 1080i/60? Supposedly flicker is somewhat less visible at 60hz than at 50hz; so 1080i/50 is my concern as that's what I'd be using (50hz DVB area).

That's encouraging. But doesn't the North American PS3 output gameplay via 1080i/60? Supposedly flicker is somewhat less visible at 60hz than at 50hz; so 1080i/50 is my concern as that's what I'd be using (50hz DVB area).

Yes, 60hz is faster than 50hz; hence you will see less flicker. The North American versions of the PS3 use 60hz 1080i, 60hz 720p, 60hz 480i & 480p.

Howdy all.

I'm buying my 2nd 34XBR960 this Monday, after my 1st one's power supply died and decided to sell it as it was. I've had the Pioneer 5020 Kuro for a couple years now, but I really miss the Sony. I remember it having a superior picture, and I find having that large a screen after awhile gives me a headache (I like sitting close). So I'm glad I was able to find another one locally but need a few questions answered if possible and not too much trouble.

It's been awhile and I can't remember the settings I used for my 1st set. I remember someone (such as D-Nice on the plasma boards) posting reference settings in this thread. I used these settings for my 1st 34XBR960 and it was phenominal. Can someone link or repost the reference settings for this set? I realize that all sets are different, but there has to be a universal gold standard that I could go by. I want accuracy!

Also, I remember going into the service menu and adjusting the red push. I think I changed 4 settings and eliminated the red push. I did the same for sharpness in the service menu, adjusting something to have an extremely sharp (yet not artificial look). I never adjusted geometry because I didn't feel it was necessary (never did it before so didn't know how anyway).

I'm trying to find the sheet with instructions on service menu tweaks but having a hard time in this huge thread.

Brings me to another point I remember.. component seemed to give me a sharper picture than hdmi. Maybe sets vary but this shouldn't be true no? I remember plugging up my Toshiba dvd player via component, and with no upscaling the picture was unreal. Well mastered dvds looked hd. Then I ordered an Oppo dvd player and hooked up via HDMI it just fell apart. It was okay but way too soft a picture. Could this be because I was upscaling and not setting it to 480i/p?

It has me worried since I have a few things with HDMI (WD TV Live player, PS3) and hoping to get the same clean picture with an HDMI switch to free up the components. I saw the post for the hdmi switch at monoprice and already have that ordered.

Sorry if this seems like too many questions.. I'm excited about this tv come Monday.

It's been awhile and I can't remember the settings I used for my 1st set. I remember someone (such as D-Nice on the plasma boards) posting reference settings in this thread.Digital settings for digital sets can be posted and shared this way, and the results should be guaranteed identical from set to set.

Unfortunately, not so with analog sets, as you know.


I used these settings for my 1st 34XBR960 and it was phenomenal.While there are some rule-of-thumb changes that everybody makes (e.g. the infamous four "red push" adjustments), the actual values used still may vary slightly depending on your tastes and preferences. What's important is to know how to tweak, and then what to tweak, and then tweak until you're satisfied... which no doubt is going to yield different settings values than someone else (with a different analog XBR960 to deal with).


Can someone link or repost the reference settings for this set? I realize that all sets are different, but there has to be a universal gold standard that I could go by. I want accuracy!Non-sequitor. No such thing as "universal gold standard" when dealing with picture tubes, magnet jobs, etc.

Plus, everybody's viewing habits and viewing rooms are different, so what might work for me (in my black room) and look gorgeous might be hideously not bright enough for you (in your sunny day room). Sure, that's why "presets" are useful, but beyond that trying to use somebody else's values can only be some place you might start from... but very likely will not end up there.


Also, I remember going into the service menu and adjusting the red push. I think I changed 4 settings and eliminated the red push.Yes, this is in the 2170P-4 group:

VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)
VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)
VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)
VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)

But my values (13, 15, 5, 4) are a bit different than what others use, because of my user settings for color temp, brightness, etc. Nevertheless, these values ABSOLUTELY need to be adjusted from the factory defaults of (8,9,9,6), in the direction show by my numbers. You will definitely find a bit of discussion on the "correct" values for your tastes, but I attribute those differences to the offsetting user menu adjustments which also contribute to how red and skin tone looks onscreen.


I did the same for sharpness in the service menu, adjusting something to have an extremely sharp (yet not artificial look). I never adjusted geometry because I didn't feel it was necessary (never did it before so didn't know how anyway).See... now to each his own.

For me, I've never adjusted sharpness in the service menu. But I've tweaked the hell out of geometry, because I want straight lines vertically and horizontally, and right-angle corners, and no curvature or bowing... at least as best as I can do it. Couple geometry tweaking with convergence adjustments, and now you're talking for getting a spot-on "perfect" picture (especially when the XBR960 is also notorious for curvature along the bottom and top edge of the screen... e.g. where sports crawls and logos go).


I'm trying to find the sheet with instructions on service menu tweaks but having a hard time in this huge thread.Well, you can start at this post of mine in this thread from back in late March (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=18407667&postcount=7007)... which has my own Excel spreadsheet attached providing my own service menu and user menu settings.

But the real serious discussion on Service Menu adjustments is over in the "Sony Service Menu" thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494), which goes on in the many thousands of post and has a large number of "reference PDF's" of settings. That's the really serious tweaker's thread.

Mostly, my spreadsheet gives you a 100% complete workbook of all settings, and you can then use it to "write down" your current settings so that if you change something or break something you can always have this spreadsheet to refer to when reverting things back to the way they used to be.

But aside from that, you may find that my numbers just don't work for your XBR960. For example, I've had a magnet job on my picture tube (to eliminate as best as possible the factory-provided bowing and curvature which can only be corrected by magnets and not by service menu adjustments, although they can help). Consequently, my geometry adjustments marry to the magnet job on my XBR960... which is not on your set.

Nevertheless, having such an Excel spreadsheet is an excellent resource through which to "write down" your current settings, and also record your final adjusted tweaks, if for nothing else.


Brings me to another point I remember.. component seemed to give me a sharper picture than hdmi. Maybe sets vary but this shouldn't be true no?Depends on source somewhat, but I used to feel the same way. I, too, used component as my only connection method from my HD sources (actually coming through a Zektor component video switcher).

But with some Motorola upgrades to the DVRs distributed by TWC here in LA, I've reverted to HDMI for all HD sources. I use a Yamaha AVR as my HDMI and audio switcher now, and it sure looks like I have more "punch" from HDMI on my XBR960 than I did when using component video.

Granted, there's not a whole lot of difference, but I do believe I've reversed my position now and that HDMI is clearly the winner.


I remember plugging up my Toshiba dvd player via component, and with no upscaling the picture was unreal. Well mastered dvds looked hd. Then I ordered an Oppo dvd player and hooked up via HDMI it just fell apart. It was okay but way too soft a picture. Could this be because I was upscaling and not setting it to 480i/p?Very interesting subject.

I too have an Oppo player, and although I don't really watch many DVDs (or BluRay's for that matter) I, too, noticed that there was something not quite right about the picture when letting the Oppo do up-conversion of 480p to 1080i, even though others touted this as "manna from heaven".

Personally, I like what the XBR960 does with "native" resolution, no matter what you ship it. Whether it's DRC (i.e. making progressive out of interlaced), or handling 720p native (at least letting the TV do post-processing for optimization to native display resolution, rather than up-converting at the source device)... I just feel the XBR960 does the better job. So I've got my Oppo set to "source direct", which delivers standard SD DVDs at 480p (i.e. NOT up-converted to 1080i), and HD BluRays at 1080i.

To each his own.


It has me worried since I have a few things with HDMI (WD TV Live player, PS3) and hoping to get the same clean picture with an HDMI switch to free up the components. I saw the post for the hdmi switch at monoprice and already have that ordered.I felt the $500 invested in my Yamaha RX-V863 was the most appropriate solution to all of my requirements. It allows me to configure all A/V sources as I want, providing both component (if I want) and HDMI out to the XBR960 and my audio system. It also provides discrete analog audio output channels, which I require for my advanced heaphone equipment (Smyth SVS Realiser A8).

You might consider going with an AVR as your "HDMI switcher".


Sorry if this seems like too many questions.. I'm excited about this tv come Monday.Not at all. Welcome back home.

That's a lot of info there DSperber. Thanks!

I dunno what I was thinking since analog tvs are going to be different. I guess I just need a general recommendation with settings to see if I'll be in the same ballpark after I do my best tinkering with it.

Speaking of that, I've never actually calibrated a tv before and it will probably be awhile before I have a professional job due to lack of funds atm. But I'd like to know the best dvd/blu-ray calibration disc that I can use with no equipment. Of course things like white balance and colors are never going to be accurate without equipment, but what's the most basic and easy to understand disc (like avia) for me to get to tinker with? I can be happy with just the correct brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, and things like that without getting too involved.

Thank you very much for the spreadsheet! This is exactly what I did with my original 34XBR960 to fix the red push. Geometry and convergence is another beast I would like to tackle. On my 1st set, to my eye it no geometry problems. The focus was sharp on the entire screen with no overscan. Then again, what do I know? I don't know what to look for here and odds are this set I receive in a couple days may need fixing. Is there a post you can link me to with simple instructions to adjusting geometry..and how to do it (best I can) with no equipment?

That Yamaha RX-V863 looks really good. I'm definitely going this route. I've never owned a high end (or any good for that matter) AVR. I assume you can run your video at 480i/p through the AVR and let the tv do the scaling (bypassing the AVR's 1080p upconversion) right?

You've given me a lot of food for thought. I will post my initial impressions later this week along with pictures of my setup. The 34XBR960 is up there with the greatest creations of mankind IMO. lol

Does it make a difference what framerate I set my WD TV Liver player to on this tv? On my Pioneer plasma, I set it at 1080p and 24p for Blu-ray rips and 60p for everything else.

So what would be the ideal resolution and framerate for 24 and 30fps material for the 34XBR960? I'm guessing either 720p or 1080i @ 60p for everything.

But this has me thinking. Since this tv has such an outstanding upscaler, I wonder if setting it to either 480i or 480p would be the best solution for dvds in ISO (I back up all my dvds)?

Does it make a difference what framerate I set my WD TV Liver player to on this tv? On my Pioneer plasma, I set it at 1080p and 24p for Blu-ray rips and 60p for everything else.

So what would be the ideal resolution and framerate for 24 and 30fps material for the 34XBR960? I'm guessing either 720p or 1080i @ 60p for everything.

But this has me thinking. Since this tv has such an outstanding upscaler, I wonder if setting it to either 480i or 480p would be the best solution for dvds in ISO (I back up all my dvds)?

Since the XBR960 can display the most common picture formats in their native resolution, Your best bet is to keep all video scaling off when using any HD CRT. The XBR it's self does not have a "scaler" but a de-interlacer for lower SD resolutions.

Scalers are intended and were invented because fixed resolution matrix display technologies like Plasma, LCD, DLP, LcOS are not true multi-scan devices like a CRT. Matrix Displays operate at the same continuous output resolution regardless of resolution of the input. If you have a 1080 Plasma, it will be 1080, even when you feed it a 480i signal. In that scenario, you would need to use a scaler to fill in the remaining unused pixels.

To answer your question, The XBR accepts 60hz signals and set your DVD player to 480p then leave it. For Blu-Ray, you can flip flop between 720p and 1080i; it's up to you to decide which you like best. I have used both and each has it's own advantages. The whole point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution in their full analog color glory with out the use of scalers which add noise to the picture.

The whole point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution in their full analog color glory with out the use of scalers which add noise to the picture.

Thanks. This helps me out a lot. I kinda figured this much, but since I've been stuck on flat panels the past few years I really need to get back in the swing of CRTs. I remember having my dvd player at 480p with my original 34XBR960 having the most gorgeous picture.

But one thing I'm still stumped on..

You say the point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution. Well, Blu-ray is 1920x1080 and the 34XBR960 doesn't exactly display this natively. So my strange question to you is would it be safe to say that 720p playing back on this tv with my media player set to 720p be superior (since it can display this resolution) versus a 1080p clip set to any resolution (since it would have to down-scale)?

I have no problem with this because I've watched 720p movies/tv shows/etc on my pc monitor for years now and can hardly tell the difference (other than excessive cpu usage). Or would 1080p clearly be the way to go (if this is an option)?

Thanks again 8086 for your feedback!

Path,

Great to hear you're coming back to the fold.

Proper geometry and overscan is definately a requirement in order to get the sharpest picture quality possible. Use a DVD set-up disc that includes a cross-hatch pattern and go to the Sony Service Code forum where you can find the portion of the service manual that provides the steps in which to follow (there are additional corner adjustments that could be found in the spreadsheets provided).

Try to set the overscan as close to zero percent as possible and then confirm it is not too close by surfing through broadcasts and a few DVDs, looking for any bit of extended black on any side and especially a corner (if so, then slightly increase the horizontal and vertical size and check to see if these changes necessitate additional geometric adjustments.

The factory technicians did a terrible job adjusting the overscan on our set and not only was information cut off on all four sides but the picture wasn't as sharp as it could have been since being stretched too much caused a decrease in resolution. I was amazed at how crisper the picture looked when I properly adjusted the settings for the horizontal and vertical sizes.

Hope this helps.

Joe

Thanks. This helps me out a lot. I kinda figured this much, but since I've been stuck on flat panels the past few years I really need to get back in the swing of CRTs. I remember having my dvd player at 480p with my original 34XBR960 having the most gorgeous picture.

But one thing I'm still stumped on..

You say the point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution. Well, Blu-ray is 1920x1080 and the 34XBR960 doesn't exactly display this natively. So my strange question to you is would it be safe to say that 720p playing back on this tv with my media player set to 720p be superior (since it can display this resolution) versus a 1080p clip set to any resolution (since it would have to down-scale)?

I have no problem with this because I've watched 720p movies/tv shows/etc on my pc monitor for years now and can hardly tell the difference (other than excessive cpu usage). Or would 1080p clearly be the way to go (if this is an option)?

Thanks again 8086 for your feedback!



The XBR960 is a Progressive Multi-Scan Display and it does indeed display 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p nativly. Similar to your old computer CRT, when a HD signal is detected, the TV changes its resolution automatically. 1080p is not an option on the XBR960 since 1080p was to debut about 1yr after the 960's release. If sony hadn't discontinued CRT production, we would most likely have an XBR CRT (XBR990???) that could do 1080 in a progressive format; my Sony Premiere Pro GDM-FW900 can do 1080p with out a hitch.

The XBR960 is a Progressive Multi-Scan Display and it does indeed display 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p nativly. Similar to your old computer CRT, when a HD signal is detected, the TV changes its resolution automatically. .....I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.

I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.

So back to my original question..

If I have a 720p tv show, is it best to set my media player to 720p or 1080i? By your logic I assume it is best to set to 1080i for all HD programs.

I received the tv today. It is the 34XBR960 (without the N) and date of manufacture is July 2004. Everything looks good so far. I've tested a few dvds and thus far it's equally as impressive as the one I had before. Already besting my Pioneer even uncalibrated.

The picture seems to fill the screen with no noticeable geometry problems. But I probably won't know until I use a test pattern. To my eye it's superb for what little time I've spent with it and in near mint condition. If your wondering I got it off Craigslist for $300. Best Christmas-in-July present ever!

I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.

That sounds very incorrect. DRC is a De-interlacer.

Do you have a Link???

So back to my original question..

If I have a 720p tv show, is it best to set my media player to 720p or 1080i? By your logic I assume it is best to set to 1080i for all HD programs.It would be a case of which component converts 720p to 1080i better, the media player or the tv. The MID processor in the sony crts have a very good reputation. I would suggest trying both.

That sounds very incorrect. DRC is a De-interlacer.

Do you have a Link???Yes, the DRC (Digital Reality Creation) is basically a de-interlacer for 480i inputs which are upconverted to 480p. 480p is then upconverted by the MID (Multi Image Driver) to 1080i for display.

The schematic of the set clearly indicates that it has a fixed scan rate in that it has a fixed horizontal 33.75KHz oscillator in the horizontal deflection circuit.

I don't have a link but can also quote a Sony DA4 Theory of Operation Training Manual.

"All video processing is performed on the B-board (DRC and MID processing).
The DRC circuit will double the horizontal frequency for input signals with 15.75KHz (NTSC) horizontal inputs. The MID circuit will up-convert the horizontal frequency of the input signal to 33.75KHz, which is the scan rate of the DA-4 and DA-4X chassis. Table 5-2 shows the signal standard and its associate horizontal frequency.

Table 5-2 - Input Signal Standard and Horizontal Frequency
Input Signal Horizontal Frequency
Standard NTSC 480i 15.534KHz
High Resolution 480p 31.5KHz
High Resolution 720p 45KHz
High Resolution 1080i 33.75KHz

The following is a description of the signal flow for each standard listed in Table 5-2:
· 15.734KHz input: DRC circuit up-converts to 31.5KHz and MID circuit up-converters to 33.75KHz
· 31.5KHz input: MID circuit up-converts to 33.75KHz
· 33.75KHz input: XBR, HV pass through MID; HS bypass MID circuit
· 45KHz input: MID circuit down-converts to 33.75KHz

The difference between this set and a conventional set is the horizontal frequency, which is 33.75KHz as opposed to 15.75KHz scan rate in the conventional set. The 33.75Khz scan rate is considered a high definition horizontal scan rate."

Service menu tweaks questions..

How do I select different resolutions? For example I'm in the 2170P-4 group and want to change items 7-10 to reduce the 'red push'. By default you can change the 1080i setting, so how do I go to 720p, 480p, etc?

For Gamma I changed GAMR, GAMG, and GAMB to 1. Isn't this supposed to get me near 2.2? I assume I don't need to change GAMM, GAMS, or BLK? What do they do anyway? It sounds like one of those may reduce 'black crush'. I'm detecting black crush on my set so just wondering if any of those figures (or any other) may improve shadow detail a little? In fact I know I am because the same scenes on the Pioneer are showing detail whereas the Sony is black (but I don't want to lose its great black level, the reason I bought the tv in the first place).

The only other concern is the red push. Hopefully after someone tells me
how to navigate the different resolutions so I can change those 4 values things will be okay. Right now ppl look sunburnt. Everything else looks superb, blacks unbeleivable, but yes ppl with pale white skin look like their cookin'.

Right now my settings are...

Mode - Pro
Picture - 35 (by eye when on 36 things 'pop' and 'brighten')
Brightness - 32 (by eye on 33 in dark room shows light)
Color - 27 (skin tones looks better, need to adjust 2170P-4)
Hue - 0
Sharpness - Min
Color Temp - Warm (used to this with the Kuro)
ClearEdge - Low (does this really add noise?)
Color Axis - Monitor

Thinking of making my next movie purchase be THX certified so I can use that for basic stuff like brightness and color (with the glasses). I don't want to get too involved, just need to get the main things correct and hopefully get rid of the sunburnt skins.

Oh and yes.. much like my 1st 34XBR960.. Component is BY FAR AND AWAY sharper than HDMI. Already tested with all equipment. PS3, Media player, Xbox 360, DVD player, etc and on every device the HDMI always resulted in a softer picture. I'm not trying to say I like artificial enhancement.. I mean so soft to the point of distraction. With component the colors seem richer, whole picture sharper, and overall cleaner. Of course all IMO.

I'm going to have to figure a way to use more components since 2 isn't gonna cut it. I'm skipping the single HDMI on this one.

Service menu tweaks questions..

How do I select different resolutions? For example I'm in the 2170P-4 group and want to change items 7-10 to reduce the 'red push'. By default you can change the 1080i setting, so how do I go to 720p, 480p, etc?...........The only other concern is the red push. Hopefully after someone tells me
how to navigate the different resolutions so I can change those 4 values things will be okay. Right now ppl look sunburnt. Everything else looks superb, blacks unbeleivable, but yes ppl with pale white skin look like their cookin'.......I haven't been into the service menu in a while, but based upon a quick refresher reading of the service manual parameter list, here is my take.

2170P-4 items 7-12 are merely the data points, (picture, brightness, color, etc.) adjusted in the User Setup. You can easily validate this by making slider adjustments in the User menu and then re-enter the service menu to check if the data has changed. These items are only picture mode specific, vivid, standard, etc. Not resolution specific.

2170P-4 items 2-3 & 13-16 are generally used to align the color decoder (fixes red push). 2 & 3 to set blue saturation and hue and then 13-16 to set red & green saturation and hue. 2&3 are input format specific, 480i, component, hdmi & atsc(tuner). 13-16 are axis specific, normal & special. BTW, the color decoder is most easily aligned using an appropriate test pattern.

I believe you must be viewing the appropriate format prior to entering the service menu to adjust the given parameters.

I believe you must be viewing the appropriate format prior to entering the service menu to adjust the given parameters.

Thank you. That's the answer I was looking for.

Thank you. That's the answer I was looking for.You're welcome. Although, the preceding two paragraphs was the actual meat of my post. ;)

Hey everyone,

So the time has come... I'm about to move and I've decided I need to get rid of my XBR960. What's everyone's recommendation of how to sell it? I'm in NYC at the moment and have less than two weeks to find a buyer.

The old standby's... craigslist n ebay

Just got lucky, found a 960 on Craigs list with the stand for 150 dollars. My back still hurts...has a little more bowing in it than the 970 that I have. I am going to take a stab at the service menu. Any Help or Ideas would be appreciated. Or if there is a good tech in the Boston area.

I was curious how you would rate the 960 vs. the 970.

Don't you feel the 960 is a bit too dark vs. the 970?

I've seen both together, no doubt the 960 has the edge in sharpness, but I just can't seem to get over the darkness/anti-glare coating of the 960.

right now i like the 970 better. the picture is sharper and the bowing is much less. until i can get the bowing fixed and have the set worked on ,i really can't give a good opinion. i am one of those pathetic people that only see the flaws in the picture so right now the bowing is driving me crazy.I will give a better opinion after i get both sets professionally worked on if possible.

The 960 should be sharper than the 970, it's not dramatic but it should be noticeable. Have you checked the sharpness setting for the line inputs in use? For the XBR models, you have to adjust the picture settings for each line input.

As for the bowing, I've learned to live with the imperfections. I've owned Sony Aperture Grill TV sets for close to 30 years now, and I've never seen one that was perfect. However, it's great to finally have a digital service menu. It's a pretty significant advancement in tube technology, over the pure analog days. Those SM adjustments can do wonders to the geometry. My two 970's are not perfect, but there pretty good compared to my older 27" analog tubes. I'll eventually get into the SM of my 970's to do some tweaking myself, but there fine for now.

I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT

I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something


Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.

last question:

Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.

I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT

I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something


Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.

last question:

Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.

I can't answer many of your questions but I can tell you that after 4 years I think my 34XBR960 still has a superb picture and better than almost every LCD I have seen. I have seen some plasmas that are better...

The other thing I can tell you is that it is almost certain that you CANNOT move this TV by yourself. It is definitely a 2 person job.

I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT

I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something


Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.

last question:

Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.

Why don't you just get the 960's cousin? The FW900.. the one that was built for PC's? It's a beast of a monitor I'm on one right now it only weighs 100 lbs. and text is almost as sharp as LCD but the color contrast everything else is better except for maybe geometry but who cares about that

Itachi,

Despite advances in LCD, LED, DLP and Plasma, the 960's CRT technology still provides the widest black and contrast level ranges available which in turns provides the most detail, color accuracy and depth perception available. Small facial blemishes are quite noticable on the 960 that are masked on our other set. In addition, objects do not appear on top of each other like they do with flat screen technologies which also causes a more true to life effect.

And agree, don't try lifting the 960 by yourself - even Batman would need to ask Robin for help with this one.

After spending some time in the service menu with a crosshatch pattern and then with the TV picture on with an HD and then a standard def channel. Lots of tweaking and lots of disgruntled sounds coming from the wife, but I like where I am and I am resigned to the fact that perfection is not possible. I love my 960 as much as my 970. I still havent hooked up Bluray to them, I will leave the bluray hooked up to my 67' Samsung LED DLP which is friggin' awesome and if you can get your hans on one ,I highly recommend HL67A750 or the 61"

My first computer display was a 17", Sony based aperture grill monitor. It didn't have perfect geometry, but it wasn't all that bad either. I loved it for its bright color rendition, vs. the more conventional shadow mask technology based monitors. But even with its basic digital screen adjustments, like for convergence issues, trying to correct for a convergence issue on one part of the screen often caused a convergence issue on the opposite side of the display. And shooting for middle ground leaves you with a less than perfect picture. So having to settle for and be happy with, something less than perfect is really the only thing one can do.

However now having gotten used to an LCD computer display for the last 6+ years, with its perfect geometry, I would never go back to a CRT based computer display for normal every day web surfing. But for a living room display watching movies, documentaries and news, as long as there aren't that many horizontal and vertical lines, I can get by with CRT based geometry issues, as I enjoy there perfect color renderings.


nx211

Hi Rudebegger,

Though we didn't have a technician come over to check out the magnets, we were also able to get the overall geometry surprisingly accurate for a CRT by use of an external cross-hatch pattern.

Equally important as geometry is a properly adjusted overscan. This goes beyond the question of edge information. The tightest achievable overscan also insures the greatest amount of resolution (if that is the proper word) available. No matter how accurate the focus-related service settings are, the further off from the safety area the more the picture is "stretched", creating a zoom-like effect that decreases sharpness. With the 960's advanced circuitry and super fine-pitch tube the improvement is quite noticable, even if the overscan is just slightly off.

So along with the geometry, don't forget to adjust the overscan.

And I can relate to your experience quite well - while adjusting the picture it obviously had to appear distorted at times and my better half was also letting me know how she thought I was ruining a beautiful HD set. :) :)

For the longest time, I have been searching for a TV stand for my XBR960. I'd be happy with either the factory stand or a BDI AXIS. If anyone has such a stand, please let me know and if possible work out a deal.

For the rest of you in the same situation needing a stand or those with an XBR960 who are considering trading it in for something wall mountable, I have stumbled upon this contraption. (http://www.ergoindemand.com/adjustable-yoke-heavy-duty-tube-tv-wall-mount-arm-for-30-to-45-crt-300-lb.-capacity.html) Though It's not what I am looking for, I suspect it would work if I decide to give up on my quest for a floor stand.

I suppose that when the day comes and your XBR960 dies and you do go plasma, this stand is strong enough to wall mount a few of your mulitichannel amplifiers and other av equipment or use it to hold your center channel speaker mounted above the PDP.



The KD-34XBR960 weighs 200 pounds, 39 inches wide (side to side), about 24 in high, and about 23-24 in deep. My very long surveyors tape measure wasn't the most precise tool for small scale measurements.

is there a gold standard to set my xbr 960 to in the service menu or are all sets different.if there are some definite do's and dont's , I would appreciate any input...thanx

WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was good while it lasted. wont turn on..i am getting 7 blinks from the red light

WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was good while it lasted. wont turn on..i am getting 7 blinks from the red light

Try leaving the set unplugged for a minimum of five minutes. That could do the trick. Also, have it plugged directly into the wall and not via a standard surge protector - a Sony service representative advised me that when powered on, the automatic degausser needs full power to operate properly of which it does not get through such devices.

So sorry you're encountering problems a week after acquiring the set. Hope this works out.

found this article on another site. let me know if I should try it or replace the DZ board entirely or call a service tech.

I picked up a dead KD-34XBR960 from a neighbor after reading aboutpossible solutions to the 7 blinking light code. I replaced the twoMCZ3001DB IC,s on the DZ board and the set is working again. Other thanmanhandling the monster into my garage, the most challenging part ofthe process was finding the "levers" to release the board chassis.These are not levers in the sense that I imagined and are more likeplastic tabs that are lifted up to allow the chassis to slide out. Ionly disconnected two of the speaker connections and worked on the DZboard in place. I did clip out a portion of the chassis bottom to getaccess to the IC pins. I removed the original IC's (one or both ofwhich was defective I presume), soldered in sockets, and plugged in thechips. The information here at Agoraquest was invaluable and would nothave even picked up the beast if I hadn't found the guidance on thissite. Thanks again to all the posters. Now I just have to find a spacefor my $15 TV.

Read more: http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=35745&forum=34#ixzz0vUhyVXhs

is there a gold standard to set my xbr 960 to in the service menu or are all sets different.if there are some definite do's and dont's , I would appreciate any input...thanx

No gold standard, each set is different. This thread has some basic setting in it to get you started. Check out KenTech's thread on using the service menu. There is a ton of great info in that one.

Just orderd the two MCZ3001DB IC,s from sony if this works then I still think it was a good buy. Time to get out the soldering gun and say a little prayer. the whole DZ board was 195.00 the IC's were 20 bucks so I will take a stab at it. 150 for the TV w/ stand 75.00 for the parts w/next day shipping.so if this works I am into it for 225.00. I am using the stand for the 970 so at least something is working from that deal for now.

Just orderd the two MCZ3001DB IC,s from sony if this works then I still think it was a good buy. Time to get out the soldering gun and say a little prayer. the whole DZ board was 195.00 the IC's were 20 bucks so I will take a stab at it. 150 for the TV w/ stand 75.00 for the parts w/next day shipping.so if this works I am into it for 225.00. I am using the stand for the 970 so at least something is working from that deal for now.

Good luck, be careful and please be sure not to re-injure your back.

Please let us know if this works.

Got home from work today and plugged the TV in and I'll be damned,it works. I left it unplugged for at least a half hour yesterday and still got the 7 blinks. I will keep those IC's anyway,just in case....I am afraid to shut it off, at least until I go to bed.

Got home from work today and plugged the TV in and I'll be damned,it works. I left it unplugged for at least a half hour yesterday and still got the 7 blinks. I will keep those IC's anyway,just in case....I am afraid to shut it off, at least until I go to bed.

Glad that it's at least working. Once in a long while that type of problem can come up and keeping it unplugged for a few minutes usually resolves it. Why it took a half-day (in lieu of a half-hour) I can't say, unless the set wasn't plugged in firmly, not giving enough juice to provide the power the 960 requires to actually work.

When you go into your service menu, don't forget to write down the settings prior to making any of your own adjustments, and then log those new ones in as well.;)

I'm trying to pick one of these up to play Gamecube/Wii on, but I have a couple questions first.

I'm going to hook this up to HD cable via HDMI connected to a Time Warner HD 1080i box. Will the picture fill the entire screen? I think that it will, but I want to make sure.

Yes the HD feed will fill the picture and then some.. ie. overscan

Yes the HD feed will fill the picture and then some.. ie. overscan

Great! What about when watching blu ray?

Yup same. Actually if you get it calibrated the picture will get shrunk down a bit to better fit the display and you will get a bump in resolution.

* - wait.. are you asking if the picture will have the borders lopped off(overscan) or if the picture will not completely reach the border of the screen? Wording is throwing me off

Glad that it's at least working. Once in a long while that type of problem can come up and keeping it unplugged for a few minutes usually resolves it. Why it took a half-day (in lieu of a half-hour) I can't say, unless the set wasn't plugged in firmly, not giving enough juice to provide the power the 960 requires to actually work.

When you go into your service menu, don't forget to write down the settings prior to making any of your own adjustments, and then log those new ones in as well.;)

Do you think any of the changes I made in the service menu could have caused this to happen? And als I would like to say thank you to you and the other helpful people on this forum. Someday I will get the settings right in service mode. If there is anyone in the Boston area (Northshore) that can do a proper calibration let me know.

Do you think any of the changes I made in the service menu could have caused this to happen? And als I would like to say thank you to you and the other helpful people on this forum. Someday I will get the settings right in service mode. If there is anyone in the Boston area (Northshore) that can do a proper calibration let me know.

Jeff Meier of Accu Cal did a good job on my 960 a year ago.

Check out http://www.accucalhd.com

FYI.

Back to the seven blinks again. First I will put a tester on the outlet and see if it is wired properly replace if needed. I know it is in sequence with at least 1 other outlet in the room,because when I turn the fan on it would cause a quick surge or drop in the Toshiba CRT I had there.So before I go taking the TV apart I will see if it is an external problem. Always go for the simple solution first .

So much for replacing the two IC's, now I get the three blink error. Kind of wierd because no initial blinking when pwer is turned on. I knew that I should have just bought the DZ board instead of trying to solder the chips. Oh well,live and learn

Great! What about when watching blu ray?

It will fill the screen and look amazing.

Yup same. Actually if you get it calibrated the picture will get shrunk down a bit to better fit the display and you will get a bump in resolution.

* - wait.. are you asking if the picture will have the borders lopped off(overscan) or if the picture will not completely reach the border of the screen? Wording is throwing me off

You can fix the overscan yourself and get that same bump in resolution.

Things to keep in mind when doing it. It has to be done per input and per resolution to get it right. For example, if you correct on input 5 it won't affect input 7. You'll have to do input 7 separately. If you have a source (like a cable box) coming in providing different signals, (some channels broadcast 720, some 1080) you have to correct both 720 and 1080 individually.

What I wouldn't give to get one of these sets to play my old laserdiscs on. I sure wish you could still buy one. Craigslist in Montana sucks.:(

I turned my sister and her husband onto thr 970 toward the end of their run. They were leary of the weight, but they wanted the best image.

I visited them a couple weeks ago. I'm still blown away!

I got the DZ board today from sony or so I thought. Someone in the factory doesn't know how to read. They sent me the AZ board. It took me fifteen minutes to explain to them the mistake.Now I wait some more.

This might be a very basic question, but I am having a hard time figuring it out. I have xbr960 TV and a Bose Lifestyle 38 audio setup. I wanted to send all sounds from the TV to the bose media center via a spdif connection. I connected the a spdif wire from the digital out from the TV to the digital in on the bose media center. Then I turned on the digital input from the bose media center as instructed from the manual.

I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.

I had my 960 fed into my (older) Bose system without trouble. My Bose needs to have the "AUX" input selected.

This might be a very basic question, but I am having a hard time figuring it out. I have xbr960 TV and a Bose Lifestyle 38 audio setup. I wanted to send all sounds from the TV to the bose media center via a spdif connection. I connected the a spdif wire from the digital out from the TV to the digital in on the bose media center. Then I turned on the digital input from the bose media center as instructed from the manual.

I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.It may be that the digital audio output of the 960 is only sourced from the integrated tuner and won't pass through audio from an external digital source. Have you tried the integrated tuner with your setup?

Got the DZ board and replaced it .TV works but it is some how stuck in 4:3, my settings in the service menu haven't changed. I saw someone else with this problem in this thread but no solution. There must be something that I am missing, can anyone help me out with a solution. Do I have to take the back off and adjust somethig inside the set or is it something so simple that I will want to kick myself...I am happy and sad at the same time over this, I just want the damn thing to function like it is supposed to.

I assume you have the Sony remote?

What does the Screen Mode show when using that button?

full

I am thinking that because the only thing different is the Dz board,I will have to take the back off of the TV and adjust the set from the inside somehow

....TV works but it is some how stuck in 4:3, my settings in the service menu haven't changed.....

I assume you have the Sony remote?

What does the Screen Mode show when using that button?

fullMore information needed.
When you continuously press the screen mode button, the set stays fixed in the FULL mode with a 4:3 window? What source are you viewing when this occurs? What sources do you have available and does this happen for all sources?

FWIW, my 34HS510, an earlier version of the 960, will remain fixed in FULL screen mode whenever an HD resolution input is selected. However, on the later models, this should not be the case.

What I wouldn't give to get one of these sets to play my old laserdiscs on. I sure wish you could still buy one. Craigslist in Montana sucks.:(
Would you be deinterlacing/scaling the LD video output? If not, since most LDs are 4:3, you should at least consider the KD-36XS955 (a 4:3 set), instead of the KD-34XBR960 or the KD-34XS955 (both 16:9 sets). You will haver a bigger image using the KD-36XS955.

TLK :cool:

Would you be deinterlacing/scaling the LD video output? If not, since most LDs are 4:3, you should at least consider the KD-36XS955 (a 4:3 set), instead of the KD-34XBR960 or the KD-34XS955 (both 16:9 sets). You will haver a bigger image using the KD-36XS955.

Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?

He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.

Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?
Maybe. However, HD 16:9 signals are letterboxed on the 36XS955, and the overall size of the widescreen picture is very comparable to the 34XBR960/34XS955 (33" for the 36XS955).

He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.
No. About the same. As I said, for the 36XS955, 4:3 = 36" and 16:9 = 33". That extra inch probably won't make a hill of beans difference either way from watching the same content on the 34XBR960/34XS955.

TLK :cool:

More information needed.
When you continuously press the screen mode button, the set stays fixed in the FULL mode with a 4:3 window? What source are you viewing when this occurs? What sources do you have available and does this happen for all sources?

FWIW, my 34HS510, an earlier version of the 960, will remain fixed in FULL screen mode whenever an HD resolution input is selected. However, on the later models, this should not be the case.

Happens for all sources. Screen is in full mode. I am wondering if I have to open up the TV and adjust the two screwws on part of the DZ board

I talked to a TV repairman and he said the DZ board is a plug and play unit,meaning that there is no reason that he can think of except that the board is the wrong one or is defective. The numbers do match in the center of the board,but there are a couple of slight differences. I am wondering if the boards are being made different now than back in 2004 when the TV was manufactured

Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?

He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.

Actually, both my cable and upconverted DVD outputs are set for 1080i with the DVD player additionally set to "stretch" so letterboxed material in 4x3 material fills the screen horizontally. Then, all I need is the 960's vertical expand to fill it proportionately.

I prefer this over the 960's zoom because better resolution seems to be retained by having the input stretched by the incoming source instead.

Happens for all sources. Screen is in full mode. I am wondering if I have to open up the TV and adjust the two screwws on part of the DZ boardWhat are your sources and their input resolutions? Have you tried a known 480i source? The screen mode does not cycle through any options except FULL, correct?

I would recommend you NOT make any adjustments on the DZ board. What are the exact part numbers on the old and new board? The 34XBR960 service manual indicates A-1303-038-A as the DZ board part number.

What are your sources and their input resolutions? Have you tried a known 480i source? The screen mode does not cycle through any options except FULL, correct?

I would recommend you NOT make any adjustments on the DZ board. What are the exact part numbers on the old and new board? The 34XBR960 service manual indicates A-1303-038-A as the DZ board part number.

screen mode cycles through all options. usig hdmi and cable box through composte RBG on vid 5

screen mode cycles through all options. usig hdmi and cable box through composte RBG on vid 5Now I'm confused. The answer to your problem may be in the details and without them, I cannot help.

Are you saying that the screen mode DOES cycle through options other than FULL but only APPEARS to be stuck in FULL?

Define "somehow stuck in 4:3". Is this a 4:3 window with black pillars in FULL screen mode? What happens in other screen modes, if available?

You still haven't answered the question of inputs and resolutions. What exactly is your source on hdmi and what is its output resolution? What exactly is your cable stb's output resolution and how is it connected? FYI, video 5 is a component, YPbPr input, not composite.

DZ board part numbers?

WHAT THE HELL. Just pulled the board out those morons at Sony sent the wrong board again

they sent me the board for the 36" 4:3 TV. looks almost the same and has the same connectors. I cant believe that rhis has happened again. Sony assures me that they wil send the right board this time.

they sent me the board for the 36" 4:3 TV. looks almost the same and has the same connectors. I cant believe that rhis has happened again. Sony assures me that they wil send the right board this time.


Can understand your frustration - I'd be going through the roof after all the time you've spent working on the set only to still be getting the wrong part to finally finish the job.

As far as Sony itself, there must be other numbers besides the ones in the center that service representatives use to distinguish the 960's DZ board from that of it's 36 inch 4x3 unit. If you found it was the wrong one, there is no excuse for them making the same mistake twice. What tipped you off to it being the wrong one?

Can understand your frustration - I'd be going through the roof after all the time you've spent working on the set only to still be getting the wrong part to finally finish the job.

As far as Sony itself, there must be other numbers besides the ones in the center that service representatives use to distinguish the 960's DZ board from that of it's 36 inch 4x3 unit. If you found it was the wrong one, there is no excuse for them making the same mistake twice. What tipped you off to it being the wrong one?

A small tag on the board which I should have looked at before I installed it.# was A1062014A(for the 36xs955)not the A1303038A which is on the original board. The board had all the same plug in spots so I figured that it must be a replacement,well I figured wrong. I just hope that having the other board in for that short time doesnt mess up the set. Where it says DZ on the two boards it has identical #'s for the bare board but what they put on the board is different. I noticed the new board had heat fins on it that the old one didn't,but I thought that it might have been added like an upgrade or fix. I am just amazed at the level of incompetence at sonys parts warehouse.I will give them credit for being curtious and trying to get it right on the phone,but I have my doubts that they will. My wife says they should give me the part for free,she is right. I hate to fly,but if they screw this one up,I am going to the warehouse to take it out of someones hide.

I figured I'd post here seeing as everyone knows these TVs…

as the post title says, I'm selling my 34XBR910 and 34XBR960…

The 910 is currently in need of an IC Board, it was getting the 7 flashing lights, an easy fix if i understand correctly

The 960 works but needs some calibration…some convergence issues mainly, a little fuzzy on the sides too.

I'm currently living in Henderson (Las Vegas), NV and am soon moving, and I really don't want to ship these beasts of TVs or bring them with me.

If anyone is interested, PM me, or email me directly at gmail.com - it's my username here for the address.

I'm open to offers and I want them to go to a good home where they'll be enjoyed, but I do need to get rid of them within the next few weeks…

Hey Gang,

I've got a 34XBR960 that just developed the dreaded blinking light syndrome--until about two weeks ago, it had worked perfectly for over 6 years. If someone wants to buy the board and fix it, it's yours if you come get it out of my house. Let me know.

Cheers,

Dave

Hey Gang,

I've got a 34XBR960 that just developed the dreaded blinking light syndrome--until about two weeks ago, it had worked perfectly for over 6 years. If someone wants to buy the board and fix it, it's yours if you come get it out of my house. Let me know.

Cheers,

Dave

easy7 fix. try it you can do it . it will be worth it

easy7 fix. try it you can do it . it will be worth it

Where did you order the parts from?

I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.

It may be that the digital audio output of the 960 is only sourced from the integrated tuner and won't pass through audio from an external digital source. Have you tried the integrated tuner with your setup?

This is exactly right. The 960 only sends digital audio from the integrated tuner out through the toslink connector.

Where did you order the parts from?

direct from sony. but make sure they send you the right part.they sent me the wrong one 2 times,today I will hopefully get the right one.

When your set blinks,how many times.

A small tag on the board which I should have looked at before I installed it.# was A1062014A(for the 36xs955)not the A1303038A which is on the original board. The board had all the same plug in spots so I figured that it must be a replacement,well I figured wrong. I just hope that having the other board in for that short time doesnt mess up the set. Where it says DZ on the two boards it has identical #'s for the bare board but what they put on the board is different. I noticed the new board had heat fins on it that the old one didn't,but I thought that it might have been added like an upgrade or fix. I am just amazed at the level of incompetence at sonys parts warehouse.I will give them credit for being curtious and trying to get it right on the phone,but I have my doubts that they will. My wife says they should give me the part for free,she is right. I hate to fly,but if they screw this one up,I am going to the warehouse to take it out of someones hide.

Make sure you punch the right individuals. The ones who didn't bother to do quality checks at the warehouse should be singled out - not the others.
But don't mess with them if they happen to be on sterroids or HGH.... ;)

Of course you didn't notice both times it being the wrong part - you're not the one responsible for checking the tags prior to shipment.

Make sure you punch the right individuals. The ones who didn't bother to do quality checks at the warehouse should be singled out - not the others.
But don't mess with them if they happen to be on sterroids or HGH.... ;)

Of course you didn't notice both times it being the wrong part - you're not the one responsible for checking the tags prior to shipment.

FedEx came and took the package, but hasnt come to drop the new one off. I said to sony that they should give me a discount as a gesture of good faith. They said that they will waive the shipping charges and not charge me additionally for the new board????? I kindly stated as a fact for the last 3 weeks that sony has had my 200 bucks and all I got for my money was a three week long head ache. After saying that,I asked, does that sound like a fair shake to you ,they said no but still wont do anything about it. They wouldnt like to be in my shoes,yet they are the ones that sold them to me and told me to take a long walk off a shot pier.

direct from sony. but make sure they send you the right part.they sent me the wrong one 2 times,today I will hopefully get the right one.

When your set blinks,how many times.

It's either 6 or 7 times. I'll check again to make sure which one.

It's either 6 or 7 times. I'll check again to make sure which one.

mine did the seven blinks. DZ board was the culprit

Got the right board ,put it in and presto. I must have changed a setting in hte service menu,because I cant get cable directly from the wire,scans for channels but finds none. I will just get a box or switch to fios because they give you free HD convertrers with your HD service if you already are paying for a box.I am sure the component hook ups still work for those boxes. Oh yeah sony gave me my 7 dollars back for the initial shipping . better than nothing

Got the right board ,put it in and presto. I must have changed a setting in hte service menu,because I cant get cable directly from the wire,scans for channels but finds none. I will just get a box or switch to fios because they give you free HD convertrers with your HD service if you already are paying for a box.I am sure the component hook ups still work for those boxes. Oh yeah sony gave me my 7 dollars back for the initial shipping . better than nothing

Guess after you asked Sony how would they feel being in your shoes, they felt guilty and sent you the money for a pair of Dr. Scholl's.

But glad everything's finally all worked out except for now needing a cable box (our system recently scrambled all stations as well, making the 960's digital tuner useless except for basic broadcast). Yes, most cable boxes have both component and HDMI outputs but if you need to use component because of a bluray, upconverting DVD player or other HD device already utilizing the HDMI input seven, suggest getting a HDMI switch box from monoprice like I did.

Have fun. You will find having a 960 was still worth the aggrevation.

Joe

Just a few small tweaks in the service menu the a switch to FIOS and I will be happy. The basic channels dont even show up,on my 970 they did ? But I dont mind using component because it is 1080i anyway

I have to open it up again, nothing bad. Just have to adjust the focus a little better

Hi,

Trying to the picture from my DVD player look good, but my KD-34XBR960 won't let me change the DRC Mode. It's grayed out (says "interlaced") and not selectable. I changed my DVD player from interlaced to progressive and the PQ is much nicer but there are very noticable motion artifacts--horizontal lines. Not sure if changing the DRC Mode to 3:2 pulldown or progressive will help this, but figure it's worth a shot. Anyone know why it won't let me change it?

EDIT: Hmm, apparently DRC is only selectable when the signal is 480i, not 480p. The PQ doesn't seem quite as nice now, but the motion artifacts were very distracting...

Hi,

Trying to the picture from my DVD player look good, but my KD-34XBR960 won't let me change the DRC Mode. It's grayed out (says "interlaced") and not selectable. I changed my DVD player from interlaced to progressive and the PQ is much nicer but there are very noticable motion artifacts--horizontal lines. Not sure if changing the DRC Mode to 3:2 pulldown or progressive will help this, but figure it's worth a shot. Anyone know why it won't let me change it?

EDIT: Hmm, apparently DRC is only selectable when the signal is 480i, not 480p. The PQ doesn't seem quite as nice now, but the motion artifacts were very distracting...

Did not notice any sudden motion artifacts or macroblocking going from 480i to 480p. But if there are, it's still worth the trade-off. Picture is softer and not over-enhanced when set to progressive.

This past winter I needed to replace my DVD recorder so finally got a player with upconversion to 1080i. I had asked forum members in the past if they noticed an improvement using an upconversion unit as opposed to the 960's own upscaling circuitry and the responses were mixed. However, I found that the player immensly improved the picture quality and would recommend you consider one for yourself (a good upconverting player today costs about the same as the price of four DVDs). That's why I haven't made the additional jump to bluray (also because there are few titles coming out today that I would be interested in to justify the additional expenses, even though the cost of both players and discs has dropped considerably). Also, I'm happy with the recordings made off of HD stations that, I guess, are downconverted to 480i for recording and then upconverted back to 1080i resolution.

If you're using video seven for cable, an inexpensive HDMI switch box can be purchased through MonoPrice along with the two HDMI cables you would need.

Hi all,

I've been looking for the best CRT HD around ... and i've discovered this 34XBR960. Does anybody has got one for sale ?

Thank you.

Hi all,

I've been looking for the best CRT HD around ... and i've discovered this 34XBR960. Does anybody has got one for sale ?

Thank you.

You are correct. The KD-34XBR960 is the very best (excluding the Sony Qualia, only available in Japan on limited production). The XBR970 is a stripped down version of the XBR960.

I regularly watch ebay and craigslist. The KD-34XBR960 shows up on a regular basis and usually priced under $350.

If you live near boston, they are practically giving them away on craigslist. I am kicking myself for not waiting. I just saw one for 50,and a 970 for free.I am tired of lifting the two i have or i would get another one. plus my wife would kill me.

I'm looking for a way to customize the zoom settings, so that I can get windowboxed content to fill the display properly, across 3 scenarios:

I want to be able to hit zoom on NTSC cable feeds for 16:9 content in a 4:3 box, and blow it up so it fills the set's display, without any cutoff or overscan.

Same goes for non-anamorphic DVDs. Although this would only work for 16:9 or wider movies... right (taller ones would be cutoff)

Lastly, using Sony PSP gameplay video out so that it too fills the screen. However, this is a different aspect/size than non-anamorphic tv feeds or dvds, and would require a different kind of zoom from both of the above.


I see a problem in that "Zoom" mode is typically the same tied to the same MID3 settings as Full. And I have the Full mode ones set properly, so I don't want to change them to accomodate a separate zoom setting. (ie, the menus on the PSP video out are anamorphic 16:9 and require Full mode)

Help?

bonus: is the 960 capable of Full/expanded RGB ? or Just 15-235 limited?

I had my KD-34XBR960 for over 5 years now and I love it but it seems in the last couple weeks I have been getting these pink/reddish shadows casted on pretty much anything I watch, I mean its not everywhere but an example is if there is a persons face it will cast a shadow for 1/3 of the face, but its not only faces it can be anything while I watch HDTV, dvds or blue rays.
For a sec I thought soomebody screwed up my settings or something and somebody turned up my reds...but when I went to check everythign was normal...I check every single feature and nothing seems to change...I even shut off my tv( unplugged and let it sit for 15 min)
Is it almost time for my TV to go? or is it something that can be fixed or as anybody seen this problem before?

Any help...


Thanks

fac133

I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!

I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!

how many times does it blink after the initial 10 or 11 blinks? Most are easy fixes,pretty much a plug and play part for the 7 blink error.

7 blinks if it doesn't come on.

7 blinks if it doesn't come on.
Unplug it. Wait 10 minutes, re-plug it in, and try again.

TLK :cool:

Unplug it. Wait 10 minutes, re-plug it in, and try again.

TLK :cool:

This is what I have done for the past 10 days

I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!

I would be very much so interested in the stand if you were interested in selling it separately.

7 blinks if it doesn't come on.

I will walk you through the process if you want to fix it,it is simple if sony actually sends the right part.

In another forum I asked why DVDRs that I make off HD stations (via s-video) look great on the upconverted player connected to the 960 as opposed to the upconverting player connected to my 32 inch LCD (which I actually have to output at 480p in order to get a good picture). Got some interesting feedback which IMO shows why CRT is still as good a technology as there is.

One wrote:

"The reason is fairly simple, the Sony being a CRT set also has the ability to actually change to other resolutions instead of just only displaying HD resolution, it can also do SD as a native format as well, and because of that it can also display those standard resolution DVD's in their native resolution. And instead of just upconverting to just one set resolution like ALL fixed pixel sets can only do, it is actually capable changing resolutions. Not all upconversion of SD looks great, some looks better than others, when done well sometimes it can even come close to HD, and yet sometimes just viewing SD in it's own native format looks the best of all. And as for why the commercial SD DVD's look better than you home made ones, again it probably comes to their resolution also, they are true 480p, and your home made ones depending upon how the recorder was hooked up, probably are not."

And another wrote:

"Actually I'm not totally sure about DVD's being 480i, or if they were just restricted to that being their "best" type of output at first, I do know Hollywood was fighting against the release of 480p DVD players for quite awhile for some reason. But they lost out, probably in a big part because HD CRT's can also operate in 480p as a native resolution. And that is very likely the main why there was also such a big push back in the early days of HD CRT sets for also having 480p capable output DVD players. That is also why some HD CRT's like the Pioneer RPTV CRT's were noted for some of the best viewing of SD. In most cases just about any decent HD CRT set, will more often than not be superior showing SD than a fixed pixel set will, due to the fact that they can actually operate in a actual SD resolution."

I thought the 960 upconverted 480P with the line doubler? I don't think it does native

I thought the 960 upconverted 480P with the line doubler? I don't think it does native

Think you're right, which is probably why the 960 is the creme-de-creme of HD CRTS and the picture quality of even non-upconverted DVD goes beyond just native 480p.

Of course, upconverted DVDs look fantastic on the set but I gather that also means bypassing the line-doubler since it's already being fed 1080i resolution.

Yeah I've always wondered if the line doubler does a better job than standard upscaling. I just assume it does because of how friggin good DVD's look but I've never compared

Yeah I've always wondered if the line doubler does a better job than standard upscaling. I just assume it does because of how friggin good DVD's look but I've never compared

I often wondered if it was better letting the line doubler do the upscaling instead of a DVD player. When my DVD recorder died, it's replacement came with 1080i upconversion and the picture quality does look even more stunning than without it. So, with a higher resolution being fed into the 960, even without the line-doubler there are so many other great features incorporated into the set to make those upconverted DVD's look even more fantastic!

I had callibrated my set for both, 1080i HDMI and component 480p.

Yay, the power went out at my house last night and now I am getting the 7 blinks of death.
Looks like I need to read the thread and find out what I need to do to order the 2 chips from sony and then solder them in.

It may be time for a new set too though, I have awful pink ghosting, on the right side of images, after any bright images.

anyone got anything for my questions at the top of the page?

Yay, the power went out at my house last night and now I am getting the 7 blinks of death.
Looks like I need to read the thread and find out what I need to do to order the 2 chips from sony and then solder them in.

It may be time for a new set too though, I have awful pink ghosting, on the right side of images, after any bright images.

I tried to soldr them, you need a pinpoint soldering gun and also a way to remove old chip without ruining the board. I found a place that repairs boards online. But I recommend just getting a new DZ board. Easy fix . If you want to go through with it, I will guide you through. Board is 200 dollars.

I tried to soldr them, you need a pinpoint soldering gun and also a way to remove old chip without ruining the board. I found a place that repairs boards online. But I recommend just getting a new DZ board. Easy fix . If you want to go through with it, I will guide you through. Board is 200 dollars.


Nah, I'm just going to get a new 55" LED TV.
If there is anyone in Delaware who wants this xbr960 (with stand) let me know, otherwise I'll see if anyone on craigslist wants it before I haul it to the curb.

I have to grudgingly get rid of my beloved 34XBR960 set due to space considerations. It is in perfect working condition. I will also include a stand but it is not the original one. I am in the Los Angeles area. Please PM with an offer. Thanks.

I've had my 960 since they first came out and its been great. Those of you that have bluray players connected through HDMI. Do you have any problems with it? I decided to get with the times and get a bluray player. I got the LG BD590 with the 250 Gig harddrive, but it will not connect to the HDMI input on the tv. It displays the menu from the player for a couple of seconds and then goes black. The manual says that the HDMI is not compatible with the player. I connected it with component cables, but the player only outputs 480i through component cables when playing copyrighted material, so why have a Bluray player? The LG had alot of nice features, it connected to my network easily and you can stream videos and music from my pc, copy cd's to the harddrive, but without HD, its not worth me having it.

I've had my 960 since they first came out and its been great. Those of you that have bluray players connected through HDMI. Do you have any problems with it? I decided to get with the times and get a bluray player. I got the LG BD590 with the 250 Gig harddrive, but it will not connect to the HDMI input on the tv. It displays the menu from the player for a couple of seconds and then goes black. How about trying to limit the BluRay player to 1080i?

You can't send 1080p to the 960 anyway, and if you do you will get the infamous "black screen". Do NOT send 1080p, for anything... not for menus, and not for a true BluRay disc either.

Is there a way to set that in the LG player?

How about trying to limit the BluRay player to 1080i?

You can't send 1080p to the 960 anyway, and if you do you will get the infamous "black screen". Do NOT send 1080p, for anything... not for menus, and not for a true BluRay disc either.

Is there a way to set that in the LG player?

Thanks, I think there is a way to set it to 1080i. I'll try when I get home.

Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.

http://images.craigslist.org/3mf3o93ld5Y65W05P0a9t0b1574336d28142e.jpg

Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.Ixnay.

XBR960's full name is 34XBR960, where the "34" is its diagonal size. It was not a 36" set.

Could be a 36XS955, which IS a 36" set but is not HD and is not 16x9.

On the other hand, this does look like a 16x9 set, and it does look like an XBR960. So maybe it's actually 34" and the seller made a mistake claiming it was 36".

It looks very much like the KD34XS955. Here is more detail on it:

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl=KD34XS955&LOC=3

That's exactly what I'm thinking. The seller erroneously listed it as 36", or maybe added another 2" on purpose to make it sound more appealing since LCDs are listed at 36".

The seller erroneously listed it as 36", or maybe added another 2" on purpose to make it sound more appealing since LCDs are listed at 36".Actually, I think comparably sized LCDs are 37".

If it is the KD34XS955, how does that compare to the xbr960? Don't they share the same tube?

If it is the KD34XS955, how does that compare to the xbr960? Don't they share the same tube?

If you compare the marketing specs, it looks like it is missing the PIP function of the 960???

That should be P&P; twin view.

Ixnay.

XBR960's full name is 34XBR960, where the "34" is its diagonal size. It was not a 36" set.

Could be a 36XS955, which IS a 36" set but is not HD and is not 16x9.

On the other hand, this does look like a 16x9 set, and it does look like an XBR960. So maybe it's actually 34" and the seller made a mistake claiming it was 36".
Wrong. The KD-36XS955 is an HD set.

TLK :cool:

Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.

http://images.craigslist.org/3mf3o93ld5Y65W05P0a9t0b1574336d28142e.jpg
It could either be the KD-34XS955, the KD-34XBR960, or the KD-34XBR970. It will say what it is on the back.

TLK :cool:

Wrong. The KD-36XS955 is an HD set.In my own personal opinion, a 4:3 set is not HD... even if it has 1080i native resolution, a built-in ATSC tuner, and HDMI input.

It may share some electronics and features with the 16:9 models, but it's still 4:3 and therefore a compromise.

In my own personal opinion, a 4:3 set is not HD... even if it has 1080i native resolution, a built-in ATSC tuner, and HDMI input.

It may share some electronics and features with the 16:9 models, but it's still 4:3 and therefore a compromise.


Perhaps your opinion could be better informed. I own both the 36kd955xs and a kd 960 xbr

When recieving an HD signal the 36kd955xs compresses the scan lines vertically to a 33" 16:9 display; so its only 4:3 presentation for 480i or 480p material - or in case the viewer chooses to "zoom" to full screen (which results in a non-HD 1080i 4:3 window for the that portion of the 16:9 signal).

IMO the 36 inch set is a much preferred display when compared with the 34 inch little brother. The loss of 1 inch of HD real estate is not critical to me; especially whent the 36 inch set has far less convergence/linearity problems in the corners due to the inherent easier electronics challenge due to the different tube geometries.

The ability to watch standard fare 480 i and p material, and slides and digital camcorder output on a 4:3 display with 50% more real estate than the postage stamp of the 960 makes the choice a no brainer if you can find one of the 36 inch HD sets

Is there any type of liquid that could be applied to the screen that could cover up small areas of the anti-glare covering that have come off? Did Sony ever have one for use by repairmen?

Perhaps your opinion could be better informed. I own both the 36kd955xs and a kd 960 xbr

When recieving an HD signal the 36kd955xs compresses the scan lines vertically to a 33" 16:9 display; so its only 4:3 presentation for 480i or 480p material - or in case the viewer chooses to "zoom" to full screen (which results in a non-HD 1080i 4:3 window for the that portion of the 16:9 signal).

IMO the 36 inch set is a much preferred display when compared with the 34 inch little brother. The loss of 1 inch of HD real estate is not critical to me; especially when the 36 inch set has far less convergence/linearity problems in the corners due to the inherent easier electronics challenge due to the different tube geometries.

The ability to watch standard fare 480 i and p material, and slides and digital camcorder output on a 4:3 display with 50% more real estate than the postage stamp of the 960 makes the choice a no brainer if you can find one of the 36 inch HD sets
I didn't know how this worked, but my eyes do tell me that HD signals through the HDMI and component inputs look like HD signals to me on my KD-36XS955. Thanks for explaining this to me. :)

TLK :cool:

I replaced my 960 today with a 55" LED set.
If anyone wants my 7 blink o' death 960 with stand and you can come pick it up in Delaware PM me, otherwise it's going on the curb monday night for trash day.

Edit -- NM, someone took it but left the stand.
If anyone wants the stand let me know

I replaced my 960 today with a 55" LED set.
If anyone wants my 7 blink o' death 960 with stand and you can come pick it up in Delaware PM me, otherwise it's going on the curb monday night for trash day.

Edit -- NM, someone took it but left the stand.
If anyone wants the stand let me know

I would be interested in the stand but I would need to have it shipped most likely at my expense obviously.

I guess you would have to take it apart and package it as well.

Hmmm, maybe I could take the long trip and pick it up. I live near Hagerstown, MD. If you do not mind what general area of Delaware do you live?

EDIT: I should have asked before, is this the official SONY 34XBR960 stand? I also just noticed this was posted 2 weeks ago, I forgot how slowly the CRT/direct view forums move these days.

I'm selling my 34XBR960 (with SU-34XBR3 stand) and my 34XBR910 as we're moving very soon and don't want to lug them halfway across the country.

The 910 has the 7 blinking lights although it's working fine at the moment, and the 960 needs some geometry calibration.

Currently in Henderson, NV (Las Vegas) - make me an offer!

thanks

I'm just getting around to setting up my 34XBR960 that I bought from here earlier this year and everything is perfect so far except for one thing...

I notice phosphor trails. Well I think that's what it is isn't it? Like when an actor waves their arm around I can see a green trail. It isn't terrible but I notice it on just about all my content. Is this a sign of a dying CRT or is this normal? Anything in the settings to fix?

Thanks.

It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion

It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion

Your right. I was noticing green because I was watching a show with a lot of green. Like just now I saw a white smear from a soccer ball. It's interesting because the first 34XBR960 I had had absolutely ZERO trails, smears, or any blur. It was virtually blur free.. even more so than my Pioneer 5020 Kuro.

But this one for some reason I'm seeing mini trails here and there. It's not a deal breaker but I certainly notice it. I thought CRTs were immune to this phenomenon.

Also, I'm having D-Nice come to my house to calibrate my Samsung 63C8000. This is probably a dumb question but is it worth it to have my 34XBR960 calibrated by him? I hear he's good, but how much better can he make the movie mode?

I'm particularly interested in getting a better picture through HDMI. The component connection is razor sharp, but whatever HDMI source I have isn't coming in as clean. Is this also normal for this CRT? If so, is there anything that can be done about it like bump up a sharpness setting in the service menu. I read that one of the sharpness values are increased in the service menu by default for the component connection. I can't remember but it was somewhere in this thread. Anyone know this?

It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion

That's something I never noticed on our 960. Is it something your saw from the beginning or did it develop over time?

Joe

It's something I see on all CRT's, but for some reason aperture grill CRT's I see it more than shadow mask CRT's. My PC monitor is a sony aperture grill CRT also(the FW900) and it has this same thing going on. Doesn't bother me in the slightest though. After a week I didn't even notice it was there.

I'm just getting around to setting up my 34XBR960 that I bought from here earlier this year and everything is perfect so far except for one thing...

I notice phosphor trails. Well I think that's what it is isn't it? Like when an actor waves their arm around I can see a green trail. It isn't terrible but I notice it on just about all my content. Is this a sign of a dying CRT or is this normal? Anything in the settings to fix?

Thanks.

I only saw trails when the brightness or contrast was cranked way up.

Having done a DIY calibration I never see trails.

If you have blu-ray get one of the blu-ray test disks or find a blu-ray disk that has a picture optimization chapter and try that?

what model TV did it turn out to be? it looks exactly like my 34XBR2 .

It's something I see on all CRT's, but for some reason aperture grill CRT's I see it more than shadow mask CRT's. My PC monitor is a sony aperture grill CRT also(the FW900) and it has this same thing going on. Doesn't bother me in the slightest though. After a week I didn't even notice it was there.

Just hope I don't start looking for it now....., knowing me ;)

I think this is the old 34XBR800 thread that became the 34XBR960 thread.

My 34XBR800 seems to be dead this morning. I turned it on to catch the F1 race and no picture! I tried the power button on it as well as unplugging it, so I think the power supply died? Anybody know if this is a common thing? I think I bought it new in June 2003.

It's so heavy and bulky that I don't think I want to bother with getting people to help me transport it to a repair facility, pay for repair, and transport it back home. It looks to be time to replace it with a larger LED or LCD TV. But I'd like to make sure if it's only a cheap repair...

I think this is the old 34XBR800 thread that became the 34XBR960 thread.

My 34XBR800 seems to be dead this morning. I turned it on to catch the F1 race and no picture! I tried the power button on it as well as unplugging it, so I think the power supply died? Anybody know if this is a common thing? I think I bought it new in June 2003.

It's so heavy and bulky that I don't think I want to bother with getting people to help me transport it to a repair facility, pay for repair, and transport it back home. It looks to be time to replace it with a larger LED or LCD TV. But I'd like to make sure if it's only a cheap repair...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945

You have to replace at least two ICs to fix your set. The chips are both MCZ3001DB ones. Good luck.

TLK :cool:

My girlfriend and I were looking for a TV to replace our dying JVC D-Series CRT (served us well for eight years and still has some life in it, but the end is nigh). It was our go-to set for SD content or if we wanted to play older games, while our XBR960 did the heavy lifting with the newer game systems and other HD content. Standard DVDs looked great as well.

The experience of having only DLPs, LCDs and Plasmas to choose from has turned us off from TV shopping and made us realize just how great CRTs, especially our XBR, really are.

We don't want to go with LCD because we hate ghosting. We hate blacks that aren't quite black. We notice ourselves sitting in extreme viewing angles.

We are hesitant to go with plasma because we just have no idea how bad the input lag situation is. On the Internet, the answers range from "There is 0 lag!" versus "It's unplayable!"

In the real world, we couldn't find a store that would let us hook up a game system. We couldn't find a store that would let us play with the remote. We wouldn't find a store that would waive the 10% return fee. Whatever happened to try before you buy?

In any case, as an XBR CRT owner, have you ever been in this situation? Is there a set that could satisfy you after owning CRTs, especially the XBR?

Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.

Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.


It has until OLED hits the market. That should push technology and picture quality forward quite a bit.

My girlfriend and I were looking for a TV to replace our dying JVC D-Series CRT (served us well for eight years and still has some life in it, but the end is nigh). It was our go-to set for SD content or if we wanted to play older games, while our XBR960 did the heavy lifting with the newer game systems and other HD content. Standard DVDs looked great as well.

The experience of having only DLPs, LCDs and Plasmas to choose from has turned us off from TV shopping and made us realize just how great CRTs, especially our XBR, really are.

We don't want to go with LCD because we hate ghosting. We hate blacks that aren't quite black. We notice ourselves sitting in extreme viewing angles.

We are hesitant to go with plasma because we just have no idea how bad the input lag situation is. On the Internet, the answers range from "There is 0 lag!" versus "It's unplayable!"

In the real world, we couldn't find a store that would let us hook up a game system. We couldn't find a store that would let us play with the remote. We wouldn't find a store that would waive the 10% return fee. Whatever happened to try before you buy?

In any case, as an XBR CRT owner, have you ever been in this situation? Is there a set that could satisfy you after owning CRTs, especially the XBR?

Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.

Yup, CRT is still the best technology out there and the 960 is the best of the best. In another forum, I had a lengthy debate with somebody claiming how bad CRT was and it could not compare to Plasma. He cited all the improvements made over the past few years in black levels, contrast, motion, etc. and was then pounced on by many who explained to him that those were improvements not over CRT but to catch up with it.

Joe

Yup, CRT is still the best technology out there and the 960 is the best of the best.Joe


I will agree and I try to explain this as well. Folks are blind in this "flat screen" mumbo jumbo world we live in now.

The only area to my knowledge where things managed to stay the same or improved on is motion. I don't mean frame interpolation.. I mean the trails you see like I explained above. My 960 shows faint trails now and then with any input. I can notice it with my eagle eye. I also saw the same thing in the showroom with another 960.

For reference, my Pioneer Kuro has virtually zero trails. I've yet to see any blur, trails, or halos and I've clocked in several thousand hours on the trusty 5020hd. The blacks on the Kuro doesn't quite match the 960, but if it did then it would be a near even battle between the two. Pretty remarkable for a set that many claim is dead and "poor picture quality" lol.

34XBR960 is still the king.

I will agree and I try to explain this as well. Folks are blind in this "flat screen" mumbo jumbo world we live in now.

The only area to my knowledge where things managed to stay the same or improved on is motion. I don't mean frame interpolation.. I mean the trails you see like I explained above. My 960 shows faint trails now and then with any input. I can notice it with my eagle eye. I also saw the same thing in the showroom with another 960.

For reference, my Pioneer Kuro has virtually zero trails. I've yet to see any blur, trails, or halos and I've clocked in several thousand hours on the trusty 5020hd. The blacks on the Kuro doesn't quite match the 960, but if it did then it would be a near even battle between the two. Pretty remarkable for a set that many claim is dead and "poor picture quality" lol.

34XBR960 is still the king.

But to be honest, I can't recall ever noticing those trails. Is it something all CRTs have or something that occurs on some and not others, even if the same unit?

Joe

But to be honest, I can't recall ever noticing those trails. Is it something all CRTs have or something that occurs on some and not others, even if the same unit?
I've never noticed them, either, and I've been looking at my SONY CRT for them over the past couple of days. For me... nada.

I suspect that it's a problem with his CRT.

TLK :cool:

Of course, as our XBR960s age they will lose their picture quality somewhat. Time is definitely running out, but I feel there is a lot of life left in mine.

Of course, as our XBR960s age they will lose their picture quality somewhat. Time is definitely running out, but I feel there is a lot of life left in mine.


That's most likely what's happened to mine. Time is against us here. But it's coincidental that after watching my Kuro for 2 years and now that I go back to a 960 that I notice these things.

I still stand by the 960 being the king, and will proably take another few years to dethrone.. pending OLED. But yes the latest plasma tech has advanced as well, and this is evident with Pioneer's last offering.

A quick question if I may. On my 960 my glass coating has worn off in places. Can I re-coat or can I strip it completely without harm?
-Dave

i think there are many posts in this thread describing how to safely remove that coating.
(seems like my 34XBR2, vintage 2001, still has the coating, if indeed it was ever there.)

A quick question if I may. On my 960 my glass coating has worn off in places. Can I re-coat or can I strip it completely without harm?
-Dave
Most people would remove it completely:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1021659

TLK :cool:

Most people would remove it completely:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1021659

TLK :cool:

What I don't get is how this coating wears out?

Is this something that you notice one day has worn off or is this a voluntary "I just don't like it" and want it gone? :confused:

What I don't get is how this coating wears out?
It could be a combination of many things. Kids constantly pawing the screen, too astringent of a glass cleaner, pets walking by and brushing against the screen, etc.

Is this something that you notice one day has worn off or is this a voluntary "I just don't like it" and want it gone? :confused:
Most of the people who I know who have it don't like it, because it mutes the brightness of the picture.

TLK :cool:

i think there are many posts in this thread describing how to safely remove that coating.
(seems like my SABRA, vintage 2001, still has the coating, if indeed it was ever there.)

It is there. My 34XBR2 purchased in Aug 2001 has it. There are a couple of small areas where cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol wore through the coating. I have since switched to using plain water only.

We have a few small areas on our screen where the coating has come off as well. These are in the upper left hand corner and down the side. These are not noticeable when watching except for a certain sitting position off center, and then, only the corner one which appears more like light reflecting off the screen - no distortion of color, brightness, black, etc.

Even if I was able to safely remove all of the coating with no damage to the screen, I would be hesitant to do so simply because the 960 was designed to perform with that coating. Were those who found the picture more vivid able to compensate for this by re-adjusting either the service or the user settings - or is the picture quality now permanently different?

Just knowing it is there is more upsetting than the reality.

Joe

Anyone in the Vancouver, BC area interested in this set, I've got one I'm getting rid of. PM me if interested.

Sadly, my run with this tv is coming to a close (after several prior attempts to part with it). Finally got the itch for a bigger flat panel!

I've finally decided to ditch the old tube in favor of a PN58C8000. I just want a bigger screen. I can't afford a more expensive plasma over 50" so I hope I'm not missing the Old Beast afterward.

It's so sad that it's easier for me to have BB take it with them than for me to do anything with it. Sigh. I'd post it on Craigslist except I don't want to have to move it around and I don't want people coming through my house looking at my AV gear! Oh well. This set still provides an absolutely STUNNING picture 6 years later.

so i'm gonna be picking this set up today. how should i go about calibrating it? are there any isf settings out there?

so i'm gonna be picking this set up today. how should i go about calibrating it? are there any isf settings out there?

If you wish to attempt calibrating it own your own, go to the AVS forum SONY SERVICE CODES. It has lists of calibration settings for the 360 which indicates both the factory setting and those preferred by the author. While each set has it's unique quirks, I did find the suggestions most valuable, especially on the four color settings which every owner it seems agrees on the changes required. Write down the original settings as they are and use external 1080i test patterns (i.e., bluray) as a guide.

Geometry is quite tricky but there are separate posts on the steps to follow which include excerpts from the Sony service manual with illustrations. Definitely use a cross-hatch pattern for this.

Good luck and enjoy.

I was sort of looking for a XBR960 in my area recently but no one is selling them :(

I live around Northern Virginia and also Harrisburg PA.

Are the improvements in the XBR960N worth looking for that model specifically instead of the XBR960?

seattlepr8 Don't have them take it, they will probably damage or junk it. Maybe a family member would like it, to step up form Std. def. If selling, you set up the TV in the garage to show people, that might be better than having strangers inside the house. Sure is a nice "second TV" anyhow:).

Someone offered me a XBR960 for $300 and I am contemplating taking the offer. I mainly want the TV for old school gaming and to have the best CRT that will be likely ever made.

Will I need to get a set top box to get most of the channels from my cable company. Because I see that there is a QAM tuner included in the XBR960 but I don't see it saying anything about encryption which I believe the local cable company is scrambling the channels above 8 on most older televisions.

Also I thought this was weird so I thought I'd check with you guys

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&productId=11038871#specifications

It says on the specifications that the display resolution is 480p for some reason but that its native resolution is 1080i.

Also I see that the XBR960 doesn't have a VGA port, is this correct?

Yes, there is no VGA port.

You'll definitely need either a cable box or a Cable Card (single stream) to get the non-local high definition channels. The only channels my cable provider (Click Network in Tacoma, WA) passes unencrypted are the standard definition cable channels with commercials and the local stations in high definition. If you can live without the on-screen television guide, I would recommend getting a Cable Card.

troj, that 480p vs 1080i specification on sonystyle page appears to be erroneous on its face, and self-contradictory. I think the spec is trying to tell us that the set can render either 480p or 1080i without any conversion/scaling.
I note that other specs on that page seem to have appeared as if someone scanned in the manual without understanding the content. "vertical correction, -5 to +5".

"Our vertical correction goes from -11 to +11."

Someone offered me a XBR960 for $300 and I am contemplating taking the offer. I mainly want the TV for old school gaming and to have the best CRT that will be likely ever made.

Will I need to get a set top box to get most of the channels from my cable company. Because I see that there is a QAM tuner included in the XBR960 but I don't see it saying anything about encryption which I believe the local cable company is scrambling the channels above 8 on most older televisions.

Also I thought this was weird so I thought I'd check with you guys

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&productId=11038871#specifications

It says on the specifications that the display resolution is 480p for some reason but that its native resolution is 1080i.

Also I see that the XBR960 doesn't have a VGA port, is this correct?

On the cable card - it may be problemmatic anyway. Althouigh I finally got Verizon (FIOS) to successfully set my 960 up, they had to go through a number of cards to get it working. And now they are claiming incompatibility and no longer supporting the older cable card displays so this is definitely an orphaned situation.

That said - there are other options to feed it, such as component/HDMI from cable co STB or HTPC and other devices with clear QAM tuners that will output to the set.

The 960 is still the best HD set available and was ahead of it's time. For example, I've seen where Sharp is selling a new LCD with four color technology - addition of the yellow to the red, green and blue. The 960 had that six years ago. It's black and contrast levels are tops (anything more is just laboratory test results used for sales hype). And it plays back up-converted DVDs superior to flat screens thanks to it's super fine pitch tube.

Know I'm just repeating what we all know but still ind it amazing that on black Friday, with all the hype going on about how great these new televisions are, that they still can't recreate what the 960 can do. In gaining large screens, consumers have lost a bit on picture quality. That's one thing the industry won't tell them - CRT is still the best.

Thank you for all of the information you guys.

The main reason I wanted to get a CRT is pretty much because I heard this was the best CRT made. The problem is that I wanted to get this CRT for playing old school games on systems like the PS1 and PS2. Mostly all SD games with a 4:3 ratio.

The main thing that had me wanting to get a CRT was that I tried to play Chrono Cross on my Pioneer Kuro 5020fd and it looked pretty bad. Maybe the game just looks bad in general I just don't remember it looking that way, but it looked even worse. Plus I was kind of worried of burn-in because I could not configure the TV so that I didn't have any black bars around the side.

I have my old CRT at my parents house which is a KV-32FS30
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-KV-32FS320-32-Inch-Trinitron-Flat-Screen/dp/B0002O76Z6

I would be keeping the XBR960 at my parents house until I would get my own place in the future (I live with roommates in a townhome).

Would the 960XBR or my old tv be better with the type of games I want to play on it? I want the best picture possible for those games.

Someone offered me a XBR960 that the person says is in good condition for $300. I just don't want to spend my money or hurt my families backs iff it won't be worth it for me. For most other stuff I'm using my 50 inch Kuro.

I saw someone on here had complained about the HDMI port, is there anything wrong with it? Also is it worth it to wait for a XBR960N?

I must say, I've had this beast for some time and got used to the PQ = esp. the non HD.


Obviously, the HD on big screen will be great, but I will miss the sure fire PQ this old beast rendered.

I'll always remember it - thanks to the fact I got a hernia from trying to carry it down the stairs.

Ugh sorry about all of the questions but I had one more. Do these crts ever degrade in quality overtime? Like they lose sharpness or color or just plain not work anymore? The tv was made in 2004 so that has been 6 years at least.

Troj, good questions.
Any CRT can go out of alignment, colors smooshed or geometry wacked out. Mine is the precursor model to the xbr960, 9 years and counting. I've had to adjust the geometry in service menu. Color is fine but I've gone for months with one of the component/DVR cables disconnected, without noticing, since I have green-deficient vision. :|
Others have verified that it is possible to adjust the color to be correct as long as the component cables are all connected.

As for the $300 xbr960, if you offer the dude $75 for tv he might take it. Lugging these TVs is quite a chore - I hope you are pals with multiple guys who have trapezoidal heads/necks.

The XBR960 is fantastic for 16:9 gaming especially with a PS3. I'm pretty sure you must acquire a PS3 asap too, so avoid santa's naughty-list.
For 4:3 DTV CRT gaming, look for used panny 32FX55, 32XF55, 32FX56, 32XF55 - these are the earliest panasonic digital CRTs, a 480p 4:3 EDTV - fantastic for gaming with a PS3 via component video cables.
Also there are vintage sony 4:3 480p EDTVs or 4:3 XBR sony 1080i HDTVs out there. Probably you and a suitable number of trapezoid-domed pals could get them for free if you offered to lug them away. They have 32" or 36" 4:3 tubes and weigh 200 or 236 lbs like the 16:9 XBR CRT HDTVs.

in local news, a pal has replaced his xbr960 with a monster LCD/plasma/something but is reluctant to sell the xbr960 - I'm first on the list to get it however ! ! ! ! :) :) :)

I'm pretty sure the "n" model is the same as the non n model. It might have been with an antiglare coating added? Same exact Super Fine Pitch tube though.

I had myself and two strong friends move mine up to my third floor apartment. It's heavy, but very much worth the effort. A hand truck helps a lot too. I put it on a heavy duty rolling cart, so I move it from room to room. Anyhow, I watch it every day-awesome tv!