Question:

I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.

Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?

Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.

Question:

I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.

Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?

Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.


I had the same thing happen twice in the first month when I got the set last summer. Both times I did what you did(Unplugged the set) and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps.

I had the same thing happen twice in the first month when I got the set last summer. Both times I did what you did(Unplugged the set) and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps.

Weird.

Any idea what that is or why it happens?

Weird.

Any idea what that is or why it happens?


No Idea!

I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955.....

At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.

So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?

I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!

Thanks! :cool:

I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955.....

At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.

So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?

I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!

Thanks! :cool:

Basically, you're 16:9 material will be roughly the equivalent of a 32-33 inch Widescreen TV. It really is going to depend on your viewing habits. For me, I wanted maximum size possible for 16:9 and "future proofing", so...since all HD is 16:9 anyways, buying a 4:3 TV in the here and now just didn't make much sense to me. YMMV.

This site may help you out further: http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi

Both are awesome TV's.

Question:

I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.

Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?

Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.

Yeah I've had that happen, too. I turn on the set, the red light blinks for awhile, then it just stops and no picture comes up. Unplugging the set and plugging it back in a bit later solves the problem just like that.

I think I noticed that this happens if I turn the set off and immediately try and turn it back on, though I'm not sure if it's related to that or not.

Hey everybody. I'm pretty new to these forums and just wanted to put in my two cents. I purchased an XBR960 a few months ago and have been loving it for all the qualities you already know about. :D

There are a few little quirks I have noticed and would like to discuss. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen, where the XBR displays what video input it is on, the actual "Video #" box curves down just a bit towards the left-hand side. Also in the lower left-hand corner, the information box displayed there has a slight distortion to it. Is there a quick fix for this, or is it something I have to live with? Is it something that can be serviced on-site, or must it be sent away?

Hmmmmmmmmmm, that's all for the moment, actually, but I'm sure I'll come up with more questions. I'm still reading through the many pages of this thread. Thanks!

Yeah I've had that happen, too. I turn on the set, the red light blinks for awhile, then it just stops and no picture comes up. Unplugging the set and plugging it back in a bit later solves the problem just like that.

I think I noticed that this happens if I turn the set off and immediately try and turn it back on, though I'm not sure if it's related to that or not.

For me it happened after the TV had been off for the night and well into the morning. (Normal useage. I had turned if off that night when finished using it and turned it on at some point the next day for more useage.)

I have this Tv and I love it.

I have this Tv and I love it.

As do I. I can't wait to get it ISF calibrated in a month or two, to really put it over the top.

I just wish I could find someone to ISF calibrate mine.

I just wish I could find someone to ISF calibrate mine.

www.lionav.com.

These guys are some of the best in the land that I know of. Why not drop them a line?

Ah. I had checked them a few months ago and no tours were scheduled near Nebraska. Looks like there may be a chance this summer. Thanks for suggesting I look!

Do folks actually notice much P.Q. difference for the better between the new 960 model and last year's comparable model??

Do folks actually notice much P.Q. difference for the better between the new 960 model and last year's comparable model??


960 vs. 910? Yes.

Not only have I heard nothing about Direct-view Widescreen CRT, but I've heard nothing about RP CRT from Sony either. I hate to say it but that tells me they're going to discontinue CRT but they're holding off on saying so because they feel like once they make the announcement the prices on all remaining CRTs still in the pipeline will plummet--a similiar thing happened when Panasonic got out of the RP CRT buisness. A bad thing for us Direct-view CRT fans, but there should be some fantastic deals on the Sonys if you can corral one of the last ones!

Not true at all bro...Direct View CRT's are going no where anytime soon..even with all these technologys for tv's over the last 5 years...none of them can still beat a good old direct view CRT such as the XBR when we talk picture quality. Infact its safe to say we'll be able to buy direct view crt tv sets for another 10 years or so until these newer technologys surpass DV crt tv's in PQ and also remember the price of these new technologies..its gonna be a bit before they can be as affordable as a DV crt tv.

Besides, what your saying is your own theory, nothing more

I'm thinking hard about getting this set.

I already have an HDTV tuner, and that's the technology that's most likely to change over time. So, outside of the built in tuners, is there a $600 advantage to the XBR over the monitor only?

Thanks!

I'm thinking hard about getting this set.

I already have an HDTV tuner, and that's the technology that's most likely to change over time. So, outside of the built in tuners, is there a $600 advantage to the XBR over the monitor only?

Thanks!

Tuner, Firewire, PIP, Customizeable DRC.

If you don't care about any of these things, get the xs955. Same fundamentals. Same tube. Same PQ.

The 910 is inferior to the xs955 series now in terms of technology and refinements. Is it earth shattering? No. Will you be unhappy if you buy a 910? Probably not.

But should you buy a 910 instead of an xs955 or xbr960 if money allows? No.

Alright then, would you compare/contrast the $ value of the xs955 vs xbr 960?

Thanks for the help!

Alright then, would you compare/contrast the $ value of the xs955 vs xbr 960?

Thanks for the help!

Hard to say. Very subjective.

I think if you shop around with legit places even, (I bought mine at Crutchfield) you basically say to yourself: "Am I willing to pay an extra ($200) or so for x and y additional features?"

For me, the answer was yes so I bought the xbr960 instead of the xs955. PIP was something that I had to have, because I use it al the time. The Firewire is something I wanted for future proofing and flexibility, and I just wanted the extra bells and whistles. (anti glare screen, the adjustable DRC, etc.)

You really can't lose either way. It simply comes down to the features you want and how much those are worth to you. The fundemanetals are exactly the same on the xs955 and XBR960. Same tube. Same PQ.

Thanks! The firewire might tip me over. I haven't found anti-glare screens effective at anything but introducing more glare. I appreciate the insight.

Thanks! The firewire might tip me over. I haven't found anti-glare screens effective at anything but introducing more glare. I appreciate the insight.

Whatever they did with this screen...is GREAT!

Just ordered my 960 today! after schlepping around and wanting one since before they came out, should be here in a week or so. Woohoo. I shopped BB hard while they were slashing anfd burning the XS955 with my open box and clearance coupons, but couldn't find one, BBs here sold out. CC has em but no coupons. Really wanted the 960, I like the extra bells.

Do I need a new DVD player, or are the signal processes in the 960 as good as or better than most new DVD players? I only have a Panny DVD recorder/player.
Yes I'm doing a search too.

Just ordered my 960 today! after schlepping around and wanting one since before they came out, should be here in a week or so. Woohoo. I shopped BB hard while they were slashing anfd burning the XS955 with my open box and clearance coupons, but couldn't find one, BBs here sold out. CC has em but no coupons. Really wanted the 960, I like the extra bells.

Do I need a new DVD player, or are the signal processes in the 960 as good as or better than most new DVD players? I only have a Panny DVD recorder/player.
Yes I'm doing a search too.

The 960 does a nice job on its own. You probably wouldn't see much benefit from say...a $200 or so upscaling DVD player, but if you can demo one with ease, by all means, do so.

Now, on the other hand, if you own something a little more hefty, like I do (the Onkyo DV-SP1000), then yes, there's some PQ benefit to be had.

Any good deals on this tv now?

Any good deals on this tv now?

Legit, believe it or not, it's going to be Crutchfield right now. Free shipping and no tax go a long ways for you plus the absolute red carpet treatment from beginning to end.

You might be able to convince Circuit City to do a price match along with whatever your haggling skills could yield.

I recently purchased this set. I have not been able to get cable yet to see what the set can do with HD programming since I just moved to a new apartment. I hear it’s pretty impressive.

I mostly use my TV for DVD watching and playing Videogames. Upon connecting my DVD player to the tv, I was not initially very impressed with the picture quality. I popped in my Avia calibration disc and did notice a HUGE improvement. However, I still think that the picture can be sharper and more vibrant. So, I’m thinking it’s just the limitations of my dvd player. I have a really old Toshiba player (sorry, don’t know the model), which I’ve probably had for about six years now. Non Progressive scan. I have it hooked up with component cables. My problem is that on most discs, I tend to get a bit of a digitized shimmering effect in the background. After tweaking the set, it has gone down considerably and is almost non existent on discs like Finding Nemo and Episode II. But it’s still there if I look for it. I’m wondering if it’s time to get a new player, since I’m using one from 1998 or 1999. Will a new player drastically improve my picture quality? If so, can anyone recommend one for this tv in the < $200 price range? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!

I recently purchased this set. I have not been able to get cable yet to see what the set can do with HD programming since I just moved to a new apartment. I hear it’s pretty impressive.

Just wait until you see HD on this thing!



I mostly use my TV for DVD watching and playing Videogames. Upon connecting my DVD player to the tv, I was not initially very impressed with the picture quality. I popped in my Avia calibration disc and did notice a HUGE improvement. However, I still think that the picture can be sharper and more vibrant. So, I’m thinking it’s just the limitations of my dvd player. I have a really old Toshiba player (sorry, don’t know the model), which I’ve probably had for about six years now./quote]

Upgrade time!

[quote] Non Progressive scan. I have it hooked up with component cables. My problem is that on most discs, I tend to get a bit of a digitized shimmering effect in the background. After tweaking the set, it has gone down considerably and is almost non existent on discs like Finding Nemo and Episode II. But it’s still there if I look for it. I’m wondering if it’s time to get a new player, since I’m using one from 1998 or 1999.

Yes.

Will a new player drastically improve my picture quality? If so, can anyone recommend one for this tv in the < $200 price range? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!

Hit the DVD forum. :)

Many thanks Q!

Wow it's tough to find info in a 60 page thread.

I just picked up my 960 yesterday and hooked it up tonight. The HD picture is incredible with Charter HD. I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)

More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left. When we opened the box, the front lower right foam piece was all busted up but there were no signs of external damage. I'm wondering if it was dropped and something was knocked out of alignment. I'm thinking I should just exchange it for another one or is there a simple way I can adjust some parameters to remedy the problems?

Wow it's tough to find info in a 60 page thread.

I just picked up my 960 yesterday and hooked it up tonight. The HD picture is incredible with Charter HD. I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)

More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left. When we opened the box, the front lower right foam piece was all busted up but there were no signs of external damage. I'm wondering if it was dropped and something was knocked out of alignment. I'm thinking I should just exchange it for another one or is there a simple way I can adjust some parameters to remedy the problems?

If the store you got it from allows for returns within 30/60 days with no questions asked, I would suggest returning it and trying another 960. What have you got to lose?

I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)

More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left. There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).

Sony Service Codes articles and comments (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494)

Of course, even when numeric values are reported for these micro-settings (available on both PDF and XLS form), your own settings may differ. Each large-screen CRT is different, even for the same model. For example, your pincushion can certainly be addressed in the "geometry" group of settings, but the correction amount for your particular irregularity is clearly going to be your own value.

If you have a serious convergence or geometry problem (including bending and bowing of horizontal lines, which cannot be addressed by Service Menu tweaks) you should contact Sony and have them schedule a visit from an authorized factory service technician. Make sure you insist that he comes out with adequate magnets to place on the back of the picture tube, as that is (truly) the only way to deal with some of these issues. This is a free visit, under warranty.

And if he decides he's finished, that he's gotten the set "close enough, within factory specs" and you're not satisfied, call Sony and request a second visit from a technician from a local authorized service provider. In my experience they're more willing to spend the time on your set than the factory guys are. This too will be a free visit, under warranty.

But, when it's all done, any out-of-the-box serious defects will be corrected. And then you can begin your own personal journey of tweaks and adjustments with the user controls and service menu items to achieve as close to perfection as you have time to invest. I can assure you that when you get the initial issues corrected by the technician (and it seems all of us have faced) and you now begin to fine tune your XBR960 using a calibration DVD (like Avia or Digital Video Essentials) to get started, you won't believe the set came out of the Sony factory as it did when you first got it out of the box. It will be that different, honestly.

When you're done... it will be GLORIOUS!

I can't stress this enough for everyone that has this set:

Throw it into Pro and Monitor. Right away you'll be amazed at how much better and more realisitc your colors will be. Calibrate and fine tune from there.

There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).

Sony Service Codes articles and comments (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494)

If you have a serious convergence or geometry problem (including bending and bowing of horizontal lines, which cannot be addressed by Service Menu tweaks) you should contact Sony and have them schedule a visit from an authorized factory service technician. Make sure you insist that he comes out with adequate magnets to place on the back of the picture tube, as that is (truly) the only way to deal with some of these issues. This is a free visit, under warranty.

...

When you're done... it will be GLORIOUS!

DSperber:

I spoke to an ISF certified technician (one who is highly regarded in the AV industry) last year about getting my 960 ISF calibrated. I mentioned to him that I had some bending of horizontal lines and asked him if during the ISF calibration, he would be using magnets to correct the problem. I don't remember his exact words, but I do know that he highly recommended NOT using magnets of any kind and using the set's service menu and a calibration disc/spectrometer/etc. to correct other distortions as much as possible.

I am assuming that the amount of horizontal bending is due to where the set is on the earth and in what direction it is facing (because of the earth's magnetic field). Assuming you added magnets to correct any issue, you would have to go through the process again if you moved the set in your house or moved to another part of the country.

DSperber:

I spoke to an ISF certified technician (one who is highly regarded in the AV industry) last year about getting my 960 ISF calibrated. I mentioned to him that I had some bending of horizontal lines and asked him if during the ISF calibration, he would be using magnets to correct the problem. I don't remember his exact words, but I do know that he highly recommended NOT using magnets of any kind and using the set's service menu and a calibration disc/spectrometer/etc. to correct other distortions as much as possible.

I am assuming that the amount of horizontal bending is due to where the set is on the earth and in what direction it is facing (because of the earth's magnetic field). Assuming you added magnets to correct any issue, you would have to go through the process again if you moved the set in your house or moved to another part of the country.

Whatever the answer may be, I'm very eager to get it done, since I have a bit of a bending issue myself.

The magnets are required when there is a vertical convergence problem (i.e. on horizontal lines that are bent or curved or s-shaped or bowed). The Service Menu convergence adjustments are only usable for horizontal convergence problems (i.e. on vertical lines).

These small flat magnets (with a piece of tape attached, so that they can be stuck onto the back of the picture tube once the location is determined experimentally) are standard Sony parts. The technician should come out with a whole mess of them, so that he can be sure to complete the adjustment.

If you look at the back of the tube as it arrives from the factory (if the cover is removed, by the technician if you get one to come out) you will likely see lots and lots of magnets stuck on seemingly almost at random though that's not the case, installed there are the factory as their best-try to eliminate convergence errors off of the assembly line. There's no way to avoid this entirely with a large rectangular shaped CRT picture tube.

This is usually done with a mirror in front of the set and the technician in the back, playing with magnet placement and looking in the mirror to see the effect. When "goodness" occurs the magnet tape is pressed onto the tube, and he moves on to the next area of convergence or geometry problem. This continues until your tube looks perfect, or great, or pretty good, or acceptable... depending on his motivation and your insistence.

I would think that an ISF technician would NOT be willing to perform this type of adjustment. It's meant for a qualified Sony service technician to do this type of stuff. I've never had my XBR960 ISF tuned, but I'm guessing the ISF guy would do nothing more than use the service menu to tweak things... assuming he's fully fluent in the Sony service menu. But he can't address all of the picture tube flaws that can't be handled by the service menu, such as localized curvature of straight lines which requires magnetic compensation to straighten out.

It's one thing to deal with a fixed-pixel all-digital display. It's another to deal with an analog CRT. I would guess the ISF guy will assume your set is mechanically perfect and will deal with service menu tweaks... but not mechanical tweaks.

The magnets are required when there is a vertical convergence problem (i.e. on horizontal lines that are bent or curved or s-shaped or bowed). The Service Menu convergence adjustments are only usable for horizontal convergence problems (i.e. on vertical lines).

These small flat magnets (with a piece of tape attached, so that they can be stuck onto the back of the picture tube once the location is determined experimentally) are standard Sony parts. The technician should come out with a whole mess of them, so that he can be sure to complete the adjustment.

When I called Sony, I couldn't get past the call center clerk, who read from a script and told me that what I was seeing was perfectly normal. I'd even go as far as saying that this guy was kind of rude to me. I just couldn't get past him or get it done.

It's almost certain I'm going to be at the mercy of an ISF man to get this all done.


I would think that an ISF technician would NOT be willing to perform this type of adjustment.

I've encountered a few here and at HTF who do this.

It's meant for a qualified Sony service technician to do this type of stuff. I've never had my XBR960 ISF tuned, but I'm guessing the ISF guy would do nothing more than use the service menu to tweak things... assuming he's fully fluent in the Sony service menu. But he can't address all of the picture tube flaws that can't be handled by the service menu, such as localized curvature of straight lines which requires magnetic compensation to straighten out.

It's one thing to deal with a fixed-pixel all-digital display. It's another to deal with an analog CRT. I would guess the ISF guy will assume your set is mechanically perfect and will deal with service menu tweaks... but not mechanical tweaks.

Then I think you and some others need to coach me on what exactly to say to Sony should I try to call them again and get this same kind of useless call center guy like I did the first time.

Perfecty normal, my @$$.

Use the Sony Service website and they will make sure you get a in-home tech.

There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).

Sony Service Codes articles and comments (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494)



Thanks, I know have a folder of downloads that should take days to read. I've tried searching this thread and the thread you mentioned to find the sequence to access the service menu. I actually found it late last night, but failed to write it down and can't seem to relocate it. As I recall it was 4 buttons, could someone let me know what the sequence is?

Thanks

Use the Sony Service website and they will make sure you get a in-home tech.

It's too bad that I have this slight vertical convergeance issue. If it were horizontal, than I would carefully venture into the service menu, via Ken Tech's thread, and try and adjust it myself.

Found it, but for some reason Service Menu Sequence doesn't return it, so I'll post it here in case anyone else is having the same difficulty locating it.

The sequence is Display, 5, Volume +, Power.

Thanks!

Thanks, I know have a folder of downloads that should take days to read. I've tried searching this thread and the thread you mentioned to find the sequence to access the service menu. I actually found it late last night, but failed to write it down and can't seem to relocate it. As I recall it was 4 buttons, could someone let me know what the sequence is?



Found it, but for some reason Service Menu Sequence doesn't return it, so I'll post it here in case anyone else is having the same difficulty locating it.

The sequence is Display, 5, Volume +, Power.

I just bought a slighty used Sony XBR960 w/stand. The previous owner purchased back in October of 2004 (delivered in November). They watched in Vivid the whole time they owned it, but thankfully according to them, they didn't watch the TV too much. They moved into another house, and after measuring the TV, they couldn't get it around a corner into a room. Thus it sat barely used back in their old home, until I picked up (and the matching stand). I got home and hooked up my Panny DVD-RP82 to it, component video cables (Radio Shack variety, but buying Monster cables soon). Everything looks good in HD, but I know I need a new antenna for OTA.

Anyway, I was watching STAR WARS: The Empire Strikes Back. (480P through my Panny DVD-RP82) The scene where the Millenium Falcon is trying to dodge the Imperial Star Destroyers I notice, some smudging. This happens when the Falcon flies across the screen. I notice "trails." The Falcon is very bright and it's a big contrast vs. black space. It's almost if the phosphors are a bit slow (kinda like a slow response time on a computer LCD screen) to change from bright white to black. I also notice a similar issue whenever Darth Vader in his black costume walks across the screen. I haven't checked any other DVDs I own, but this annoys me. The picture besides (in pro mode wout/calibration) looks great (will calibrate it myself eventually). Is this a defect inherent to this TV, or does something need to be adjusted in the Service Menu?

Thanks in advance,

I'm definitely not the most knowledgeable person here, but sometimes the DVD itself, the DVD player, and the cables can also effect what you see on the screen, s well as the display itself.

I have seen this smudging/ghosting/trailing on my set, too, and I've been working with a local Sony repair place to fix it. No luck yet.

Well as the cliche goes, misery loves company. I've also noticed this phenomenon with other DVDs.

It happens no matter what I tried with the DVD player, like letting the TV do the progessive output (Cinemotion), vs. the player, hooking up the player up without component cables. Also I hooked up my VCR to the screen, watched some Batman and noticed it too.

I've watched analog NTSC broadcasts, same thing. I haven't had a chance yet to evaluate it in HDTV thoroughly yet. I suspect this is "in" the display.

The TV was manf. September 2004, Ser. # 9001828. I called up Sony and after some cookiecutter "improvement tips", my ticket was elevated to level 2. (Must be kinda like Defcon 2. ;-) ) So I should be getting a call today... pretty much I want to get a Sony tech out to the TV.

Any service menu tweaks to alleviate this issue? Should I be patient, and hope it goes away? Lastly, am I being too picky and I should just suck it up?

Thanks in advance,

Footnote: There were some known (and unforgiveable) graphics' glitches on those Star Wars SE DVD's, especially Episode IV. FWIW before you really start blaming the TV.

I haven't noticed any trailing on my set.

I haven't noticed any trailing on my set.

Neither have I.

Again, folks, let me recommend "pro" and "monitor" settings, right from the get go. Also, if either your brightness or contrast settings are higher than 50, those are TOO HIGH, for sure!

Color should be no higher than 31-ish. VM on Low. DRC values no higher than 25 each. Sharpness 31-ish. (These are all CEILING values.)

This is a good place from which to start calibrating. I can't recommend going out of pro and monitor for ANY applications, quite honestly.

I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.

That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.

FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.

I just took delivery of AVIA today and the hour I've spent with it, just with the basic menus (no service menu venture yet) has proven to be quite deducational.

I found out, not surprisingly, that I was fairly close on some things and not so close on some others. I had used a THX Optimizer as my stop gap until getting this.

Long story short: Color stays at 31, dead center value. Hue stays at also at dead center.

Sharpness HAD BEEN at dead center 31...and believe it or not, that's actually a little high. Now I have it around 20. I was tempted to turn it down to 15.

Brightness is at about 45 now for me. I was actually right with that one. Picture dropped from nearly the same value down to about 35.

Making these adjustments while already being in pro and monitor settings goes a LONG ways towards getting you home.

NOW, with AVIA in hand, I may venture into Ken Tech's thread, with my notebook open to record default settings and VERY carefully make a handful of adjustments.

Thanks for the input about calibrating. I had a small gripe with the Pro setting, I don't have a calibration disc yet, so I just copied your settings until I get one. I did get brightness set pretty good, by using my Casablanca DVD. Quick question, I'm currently using the de-interlacing circuit (based on Faroudja/Genesis FLI2200 chip) on my Panny DVD-RP82. Any idea on how this compares to using the Cinemotion 3:2 pulldown on the TV itself?

An update on my quest of video nirvana. I checked with many DVDs, with the VCR, on regular TV, and HDTV, this same "trailing" occurs, it only happens with very high contrast objects moving around the screen, like what I describe earlier. I've seen text crawls do this on HDTV as well. It is very subtle, but as many people here I have a discriminating eye.

After talking to the 2nd level tech. support, I have a dispatch number for an in-house tech to check the TV out. Not bad for owning the TV since this past Sunday! ;-)

I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.

That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.

FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.

I had 2 Toshiba 30HFX84s that had the trailing problem, and my current Sony 30HS420 has it as well, but to a lesser degree. I've had the TV for 5 months and it hasn't gone away. This problem might just be source related, causing longer decay times of the phosphors. I seem to only notice it when watching DVDs.

Thanks for the input about calibrating. I had a small gripe with the Pro setting, I don't have a calibration disc yet, so I just copied your settings until I get one. I did get brightness set pretty good, by using my Casablanca DVD. Quick question, I'm currently using the de-interlacing circuit (based on Faroudja/Genesis FLI2200 chip) on my Panny DVD-RP82. Any idea on how this compares to using the Cinemotion 3:2 pulldown on the TV itself?

I know that your DVD player is considered a "legend" for component video players at this point, but it wouldn't hurt to experiment and do some A/B tests. See which looks better to you!

An update on my quest of video nirvana. I checked with many DVDs, with the VCR, on regular TV, and HDTV, this same "trailing" occurs, it only happens with very high contrast objects moving around the screen, like what I describe earlier. I've seen text crawls do this on HDTV as well. It is very subtle, but as many people here I have a discriminating eye.

After talking to the 2nd level tech. support, I have a dispatch number for an in-house tech to check the TV out. Not bad for owning the TV since this past Sunday! ;-)

I really tried to spend some time with Avia yesterday. All told, I spent about two hours repeatedly listening to the instructions and following them. All I did was use the regular video menus. The service menu will be an adventure for another day.

All of this is out of pro and monitor:

A few surprises: My sharpness really needed to be turned down. I had left it on default at 31, in the middle. Even that was too high! I turned it down to 15 with Avia and kept VM on low.

Another lesson I learned was: A little contrast goes a LONG ways.

My settings now, adjusted by Avia:

Picture/contrast: 35
Brightness is at 47.
Color is at 31, dead center
Hue is at dead center
Sharpness: 15
VM: Low
Color temp= Neutral

Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.

I was gratified to see that with blue, green, and red "visors" that Avia provides you with, my color and saturation are DEAD ON like this.

This is why I can't stress "pro" "monitor" and "color neutral" right off the bat for any Sony CRT tuve owner, as applicable, before you even begin to calibrate.

I'll never go outside of these settings for any applicaition. I also made sure that these settings are applied to ALL inputs and applications across the board.

I watched some material last night with these new settings and I really was surprised at how "better" the PQ was compared to my settings that I had fudged off of a THX Optimizer.

You lucky b**tards!

I've just been researching a nice <32" CRT TV with high resolution (mainly for use with my HTPC computer) and came to the conclusion that the XBR960 is the way to go.

Only Sony, in their wisdom, don't make a PAL version (as opposed to NTSC)!!! The closest I can get is a KV-36HQ100, which has XBR (Super Fine Pitch over here), but only has ***** SCART connections!!! No DVI, no HDMI, not even a VGA!!! :eek:

It's a long shot, but does anyone know if it's possible to mod the XBR960 so that it becomes PAL compatible? Or does anyone know of a European equivalent? Arghhhhhh! I hate Sony Europe.

You lucky b**tards!

I've just been researching a nice <32" CRT TV with high resolution (mainly for use with my HTPC computer) and came to the conclusion that the XBR960 is the way to go.

Only Sony, in their wisdom, don't make a PAL version (as opposed to NTSC)!!! The closest I can get is a KV-36HQ100, which has XBR (Super Fine Pitch over here), but only has ***** SCART connections!!! No DVI, no HDMI, not even a VGA!!! :eek:

It's a long shot, but does anyone know if it's possible to mod the XBR960 so that it becomes PAL compatible? Or does anyone know of a European equivalent? Arghhhhhh! I hate Sony Europe.

You'd know better than me, but isn't SCART supposed to be better, in some respects, for non-HD?

I'm definitely surprised at the lack of any of those other connections, though. I don't know if SCART does HD or not.

I know that your DVD player is considered a "legend" for component video players at this point, but it wouldn't hurt to experiment and do some A/B tests. See which looks better to you!

Yea, I've had it for a the last two years, I bought it off of Ebay, because by the time I found it, it was sold out and discontinued. I've had it hooked up to my dad's 1985 Sony KV-25XBR, (the first television worthy of the XBR designation) which is still going strong, btw. It looked great on that TV, it looks awesome on the 960. Currently I'm having the player do the legwork, no need to stress my baby. ;)



I really tried to spend some time with Avia yesterday. All told, I spent about two hours repeatedly listening to the instructions and following them. All I did was use the regular video menus. The service menu will be an adventure for another day.

All of this is out of pro and monitor:

A few surprises: My sharpness really needed to be turned down. I had left it on default at 31, in the middle. Even that was too high! I turned it down to 15 with Avia and kept VM on low.

Another lesson I learned was: A little contrast goes a LONG ways.

My settings now, adjusted by Avia:

Picture/contrast: 35
Brightness is at 47.
Color is at 31, dead center
Hue is at dead center
Sharpness: 15
VM: Low
Color temp= Neutral

Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.

I was gratified to see that with blue, green, and red "visors" that Avia provides you with, my color and saturation are DEAD ON like this.

This is why I can't stress "pro" "monitor" and "color neutral" right off the bat for any Sony CRT tuve owner, as applicable, before you even begin to calibrate.

I'll never go outside of these settings for any applicaition. I also made sure that these settings are applied to ALL inputs and applications across the board.

I watched some material last night with these new settings and I really was surprised at how "better" the PQ was compared to my settings that I had fudged off of a THX Optimizer.

I need to get this disc or DVE!


I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.

That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.

FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.

Btw. an update on my saga, I'm having a Sony trained tech come out with a new board, next Weds. to fix the trailing problem. I talked with him on the phone today. He said that the problem is most likely slow video processing, (yippee) I'm very satisfied with the Tube itself, no issues, but I want this problem cleared up so I stop worrying about PQ. I'll let everyone know how successful it goes.

My settings now, adjusted by Avia:

Picture/contrast: 35
Brightness is at 47.
Color is at 31, dead center
Hue is at dead center
Sharpness: 15
VM: Low
Color temp= Neutral

Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.I know it goes without saying, but there's probably no single exact settings set which works on everybody's XBR960. Unlike fixed-pixel digital displays (like the Sharp 45" Aquos LCD, where I've now seen three that seem to be electronically identical and all look exactly the same with the same settings values), CRT's don't have that uniformity.

Throw in other CRT-related variables (like the use of magnet solutions to convergence/geometery problems), playing around with service menu tweaks (including additional convergence/geometry adjustments as best as can be done this way), and it's clear that "to each, his own". Everybody's results will be different.

For example, thanks to suggestions from the "tweaks" thread in this forum, I've found that the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB adjustments in the 2170P-4 service menu group produced a PROFOUND improvement in eliminating red-push. I actually just tried the suggested 13, 15, 5,4, values and was stunned at what they did. So I've left them just that way and haven't tried to tweak any further. But without these particular adjustments, the rest of my settings would be quite different. I think everybody should START with these four settings and proceed from there. I have made no other color or grayscale adjustments whatsoever, only these four. But coupled with my near-perfect convergence (thanks to three visits from Sony techs and lots of magnets, followed by my own service menu adjustments) I'm 100% satisfied with the color produced by my XBR960.

So again, "your mileage will vary" depending on the whole set of adjustments you've gone through. This is to be expected, as are "standard" large-screen rectangular CRT artifacts such as bowing and slightly imperfect convergence in the corners.

What is also important is that when Avia or DVE is used to help calibrate and tweak, remember that this is a 480p input, likely on component video. As such, it will be good... to adjust that input source type. But it might not be (in fact likely won't be) exactly right for other inputs, such as a second 720p/1080i component video input, or firewire input, or HDMI input, or the SD inputs. In fact there might be substantially different user menu adjustments needed for the other inputs, even depending on the MPEG decoder output of your DVD player. Hence: PRO.

That having been said, I'm not going to claim that my settings are better than yours, if you are satisfied with what you've done. But I will say that I have some very very different settings, not just for DVD input but for my other inputs. Again, I have the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values set as above. If you don't, my other user menu settings will likely not apply to your situation. But if you haven't adjusted these crucial four 2170P-4 items, I strongly suggest that you do. And then go back and see how your current settings need re-adjusting.

But... I will say that I feel setting sharpness to MIN is crucial, at least for me. This point was strongly emphasized in DVE, and I've been running with 0 (or min) sharpness for many years, first with my previous Sampo and now with my XBR960. It is stunning (to me, anyway) how much more realistic and detailed an HD image appears when it has 0 sharpness added. I was initially not prepared for just how dramatic is the effect of "turning off" sharpness, but I've now taken to similar adjustments even on my other SD sets. It might take a bit of getting used to if you've never tried it, but I think once you try it you will very quickly realize that this is how things should be set. Of course, YMMV, but make sure you use proper test content for your evaluation... such as stunning HD from DiscHD or INHD (like a baseball game).

Also, while I didn't discover "monitor" (in Advanced -> color axis) until later, even now I've not changed the "default" setting for that item. I have experimented with it a little, but found that to my eye "monitor" makes skin look a bit green (given my other current settings) so I've gone back to "default" which to me puts just the right amount of red into flesh color. Others may differ in their opinion, but I like it just the way it is (although obviously it's also because of the interaction of my other settings).

Also, I have Clear Edge VM set to OFF, and color temperature set to COOL, for ALL inputs. And of course I have PRO mode set for all inputs. So I don't need to mention them below. I know others have color set to NEUTRAL, but I like COOL in conjunction with my other settings.

Otherwise, my values vary significantly from each other (and from your single posted set) depending on input source. I know, this means nothing to your environment (other than the principle that settings will indeed vary by input), but you might experiment with some of my values (especially sharpness):

(INPUT1) I use it for D* SD via S-video. The following settings are for picture, brightness, color, hue, sharpness: 39, 33, 34, 0, min. NOTE: I also have DRC set to "progressive" for this input.

(INPUT3) I use it for off-air SD and S-VHS, via my JVC 40K: 40, 34, 34, 0, 19 NOTE: this is the only input where I have sharpness set to something other than 0/minimum, but honestly the only channel I watch this way is off-air UPN which I can't get any other way. Setting sharpness to MIN seems harmful to picture quality, so I've settled at 19 here.

(INPUT5) I use it for 480p DVD (Sony DVP-9000ES) component video: 34, 36, 36, G1, min NOTE: adjusted using DVE.

(INPUT6) I use it for 720p/1080i component video (6412, JVC 40K and DT100U) through a Zektor switch: 35, 32, 31, 0, min

(INPUT7) I use it for HDMI from JVC DT100U, mostly just for comparison: 35, 32, 31, 0, min NOTE: I'm still experimenting with HDMI, but I think I prefer the picture watching via firewire.

(i-link) I use it for watching via firewire from 6412, JVC 40K and DT100U: 34, 31, 31, 0, min


As you can see, except for DVD my color setting for all inputs is factory 31. Also, again except for DVD my hue setting is again at factory 0. It's mostly contrast (picture) and brightness where each input has been adjusted significantly from factory default PRO settings.

But... sharpness min, Clear Edge VM off, color temperature cool, and color-axis default. I like it.

Price Drop! This model just dropped by $300 at a large electronics chain. You can also get an additional 10% off through the 4th by using the code "DJA3QLGADC"! Does this mean that a new model's on its way?

Price Drop! This model just dropped by $300 at a large electronics chain. You can also get an additional 10% off through the 4th by using the code "DJA3QLGADC"! Does this mean that a new model's on its way?

No, there's no new model forthcoming.

Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?
My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.
Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!
SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.

Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?
My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.
Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!
SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.

Congrats on the new set. Are you using a CableCARD from TW in your area? You will need either that or an HD cable box to decode the incoming signals from TW, unless you are getting the HD signals OTA and using the 960's built-in tuner.

I do't stretch anything on my set for SD material. I prefer to watch shows in their original format ratio, whether that was 16:9 or 4:3.

Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?
My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.
Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!
SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.

It's ok to turn the brightness up a bit, say 6-8 clicks up from the middle.Sony sets tend to be set too dark from the factory so to get a proper black level you have to up the brightness a bit.

It's contrast that you have to worry about, i would'nt set it no higher than 50 the most.mines at 47.

Thanks guys,
Just using straight TW cable in, I get about 4 or 5 HD channels. I wanted to try Cablecard but balked at TW charging $30 to install it, when I know other nearby TW markets let you just pick up the card like a converter box. So I'm just testing it out. I hate using cable boxes and their remotes but the HD DVR box is a great option too.

Thanks guys,
Just using straight TW cable in, I get about 4 or 5 HD channels. I wanted to try Cablecard but balked at TW charging $30 to install it, when I know other nearby TW markets let you just pick up the card like a converter box. So I'm just testing it out. I hate using cable boxes and their remotes but the HD DVR box is a great option too.

I don't like CableCard for this one reason: It's one way only. It means you're paying big bucks and you can't even use on On Demand or Pay Per View. No interaction on your end possible.

I never use those services and I hate the klutzy interface on the cable boxes and remotes, I do like the idea of the HD DVR they rent, but I'm already eyeing the Sony HD DVRs for sale but not sure if they work with my local TW cable service programming.

I never use those services and I hate the klutzy interface on the cable boxes and remotes, I do like the idea of the HD DVR they rent, but I'm already eyeing the Sony HD DVRs for sale but not sure if they work with my local TW cable service programming.

I can't imagine why they wouldn't work, but call TWC first and ask them.

I'm thinking of getting the xbr960. I'm leaning towards getting it at BB or CC, or Magnolia, I'd rather have it delivered but I don't like the risk of damage in transit. Is there a place to buy from online that treats these tv's with care?

I also think about what I'd have to pay to return the thing if something went wrong. :eek:

My dvd player is a JVC xv-n5sl. It seems like an amazingly good player to me.

I bought the Panasonic xp-30 and thought this player looked better. Plus it was easier to use.

I'm going to buy a set-top antenna for OTA HD shows. Stuff like Lost and 24.

I don't watch much tv, I'm big into dvd's and video games.

Should I have it delivered from crutchfield or buy it here from a store?
I live in a house and it won't go up any stairs.

This site is JUST what I need right now. Thanks for the help.

Should I have it delivered from crutchfield or buy it here from a store?
I live in a house and it won't go up any stairs.
I'd recommend you get it locally. But if you do buy it from Crutchfield, ask them who they use for freight shipping. If they tell you it's Eagle, then forget it. I had several problems with them. Only one guy showed up and expected me to help them bring the 200 pound TV into the house. It was the freight carriers fault since they were trying to save money by sending only one guy. I called Crutchfield and they apologized.

The other thing that bothered me was that the delivery guy told me that your package goes through 4 or 5 places, depending on how far you live from Crutchfield's location. What this means is that it gets banged around a lot. Crutchfield puts these devices on the package to indicate whether or not the box was dropped or tipped over. Mine were torn off indicating that someone had probably dropped it. Crutchfield contacted Eagle freight and they got on their ass about it. This is another reason I'd recommend you buy local. Granted, it's impossible to know what happens to it from any place you buy it from, but I won't buy anything this big over the Web again.

I'm not slamming Crutchfield, but they need to find a different freight carrier. They have a great tech and sales staff, but the freight company they use (Eagle) sucks.

I'd recommend you get it locally. But if you do buy it from Crutchfield, ask them who they use for freight shipping. If they tell you it's Eagle, then forget it. I had several problems with them. Only one guy showed up and expected me to help them bring the 200 pound TV into the house. It was the freight carriers fault since they were trying to save money by sending only one guy. I called Crutchfield and they apologized.

The other thing that bothered me was that the delivery guy told me that your package goes through 4 or 5 places, depending on how far you live from Crutchfield's location. What this means is that it gets banged around a lot. Crutchfield puts these devices on the package to indicate whether or not the box was dropped or tipped over. Mine were torn off indicating that someone had probably dropped it. Crutchfield contacted Eagle freight and they got on their ass about it. This is another reason I'd recommend you buy local. Granted, it's impossible to know what happens to it from any place you buy it from, but I won't buy anything this big over the Web again.

I'm not slamming Crutchfield, but they need to find a different freight carrier. They have a great tech and sales staff, but the freight company they use (Eagle) sucks.


Gosh, I had nothing but perfection from start to end, including with Eagle. Maybe it's a regional thing?

Well,I finally went and done it after reading all of the posts(I think) relating to the xs955! My 955 will be delivered sometime next week,so I do have a few questions to start.
1. I have read both pro and con about which cables to use and how to hook up.Wether to use composite from sat receiver(not hd) to Tv or to use s-video only if very good cables.
2.And what to use from DVD player and to rcvr. or to tv?
3. Do's and don't's out of the box?

Rcvr. is Sherwood Newcastle R-945,and DVD is Panny DVD-RV80,I also have a Pioneer Dv-563a that I got just to play sacd's and dvd-a's on,so I don't know how that would be for a dvd player.
Thanks to all who already contributed!
Jim

Gosh, I had nothing but perfection from start to end, including with Eagle. Maybe it's a regional thing?

It probably is. A customer rep from Crutchfield did tell me that they have had problems with Eagle in other areas as well. All I say is be careful and don't accept any package that has had the drop or tip indicaters ripped off.

It probably is. A customer rep from Crutchfield did tell me that they have had problems with Eagle in other areas as well. All I say is be careful and don't accept any package that has had the drop or tip indicaters ripped off.

Always good advice.

In my case, these guys called me out of Dayton, OH, where they were stationed. In a record amount of drving time, they found my house, and they took their sweet time delivering my 960 up a flight of stairs, doing me a huge favor and moving an old TV down two flights of stairs, and taking all the packaging out of there. Needless to say, I personally tipped these guys because I was so impressed.

After one week of owning the 960, I find myself watching Discovery HD even when there's other stuff on I would normally watch instead. After one service call from my local store and two magnets, I still have geometry issues that need correcting, but other than that the picture is incredible.

I'm using a Denon 2910 running HDMI into the 960. What is the best setting to output from the DVD player with respect to format? If I output at 1080i does the 960 then do no conversion on the signal? I'm also using a Charter Motorola cable box and outputting from that at 1080i seems to yield the best results into component inputs.

After one week of owning the 960, I find myself watching Discovery HD even when there's other stuff on I would normally watch instead. After one service call from my local store and two magnets, I still have geometry issues that need correcting, but other than that the picture is incredible.

I'm using a Denon 2910 running HDMI into the 960. What is the best setting to output from the DVD player with respect to format? If I output at 1080i does the 960 then do no conversion on the signal? I'm also using a Charter Motorola cable box and outputting from that at 1080i seems to yield the best results into component inputs.

Set it to 1080i over HDMI.

I find that I keep DiscoveryHD on a lot and put the TV on mute while I go do other things. I want to get 100 hours on this TV fairly quick so I can get ready for an ISF job. What better channel to use than DiscoveryHD!

Silly request:

I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.

Silly request:

I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.

From the manual

994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)

From the manual

994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)

Sorry, that's W x H x D

From the manual

994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)
Thanks for taking the time to look that up and make the post. However, all the various web sites I'm looking at show those measurements to be the size of the cabinet, not the viewing dimensions of the tube itself.

Silly request:

I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.

You've swapped the norm for the X and Y axis so using standard practice along the X axis (horizontal) is 29 1/2" and along the Y axis (vertical) is 16 3/4".

I want to get 100 hours on this TV fairly quick so I can get ready for an ISF job. If you do get an ISF tuneup, I'd be very interested to hear just what was done. What equipment did he arrive with to adjust each separate input? Did he charge separately for each input, or for the whole job?

How "bad" is your out-of-the-box set currently? What specific gripes do you have right now, that you'd like the ISF tech to fix... and did they all get addressed? Did you have a Sony tech come to your house first (under warranty) to address anything? Will you have a Sony tech come out now, after the ISF tech, to "finish" the job if the ISF guy said that was necessary?

I assume you will write down all of your current service menu settings before any adjustments (either yours or those of the ISF tech). Then I'd like to know what specific service menu settings were changed, and of course from what value and to what value. I realize that any adjustments for your set would likely not apply to mine and I'm definitely not trying to take advantage of your ISF work, but I'm curious to know how many and which service menu items the ISF tech dealt with? What sections of the service menu did he deal with, not necessarily what were the actual numeric changes for your specific set?

Finally, did the ISF tech bring any magnets for vertical convergence/geometry adjustments? In other words, did he perform any physical/mechanical adjustments to your CRT set, or were all of the adjustments done using service menu tweaks only?

Can you tell the difference, now that the ISF job is complete? Are you happy? Were the changes substantial or subtle and refined? Are there improvements on all of your inputs, both SD and HD? Did you then do even more service menu tweaks yourself, or did you leave it alone and will you "live with it"? Is the picture now "gorgeous", or still a bit flawed, etc.? Anything unfinished?

I don't remember reading about anybody else getting an ISF adjustment on this set and your experiences and thoughts would be quite interesting. Do you feel you got your money's worth?

If you do get an ISF tuneup, I'd be very interested to hear just what was done. What equipment did he arrive with to adjust each separate input? Did he charge separately for each input, or for the whole job?

I'll take notes . ;)


How "bad" is your out-of-the-box set currently?

Not bad AT ALL!

What specific gripes do you have right now, that you'd like the ISF tech to fix... and did they all get addressed?

Mostly picky stuff, if you want me to be brutally honest. I'm kind of a skeptic about "how much better" my PQ can really get, but there's some refinements, namely geometry and convergeance, that I think I'm going to have to have addressed.



Did you have a Sony tech come to your house first (under warranty) to address anything?

I need to try this again. The first time I called them, some dorky clerk took me, read off a script that my vertical convergeance issue was perfectly normal. I couldn't break through the glass wall to save my life, so I honestly don't know if I can even GET a Sony tech here or not.

I know that I have no Sony techs anywhere near my location.


Will you have a Sony tech come out now, after the ISF tech, to "finish" the job if the ISF guy said that was necessary?

Ideally, I'd like the Sony tech come out FIRST.



I assume you will write down all of your current service menu settings before any adjustments (either yours or those of the ISF tech).

SURE!


Then I'd like to know what specific service menu settings were changed, and of course from what value and to what value. I realize that any adjustments for your set would likely not apply to mine and I'm definitely not trying to take advantage of your ISF work, but I'm curious to know how many and which service menu items the ISF tech dealt with? What sections of the service menu did he deal with, not necessarily what were the actual numeric changes for your specific set?

When/if the times comes, I'll do my best!



Finally, did the ISF tech bring any magnets for vertical convergence/geometry adjustments?

Some ISF techs feel comfortable doing this kind of work, others do not. The one that I approached was honest with me about it and told me that he'd feel better about it if I went to a Sony tech for magnet work and such, if needed.

You can see what kind of circle this is starting to put me in, right? ;)


In other words, did he perform any physical/mechanical adjustments to your CRT set, or were all of the adjustments done using service menu tweaks only?

We'll see...



Can you tell the difference, now that the ISF job is complete? Are you happy? Did you then do even more service menu tweaks yourself, or did you leave it alone? Is the picture now "gorgeous", or still a bit flawed, etc.?

I'll let you know after it's been done.

At present, out of the box, I'd have a hard time imagining how much better my PQ could really get. I can't seem to get the white and black levels perfectly to my liking, even using AVIA.

To my eyes, the contrast test in particular, and even on THX Optimizers...it's hard to really get that right mark.

I don't remember reading about anybody else getting an ISF adjustment on this set and your experiences and thoughts would be quite interesting. Do you feel you got your money's worth?

Some folks over at Home Theater Forum have done it and they say they're amazed.

Good Luck Q of B;)

Tell us how you make out!

Well I had the certified Sony Tech come out. He changed the YB board (or is it BY). We tried the same material off of the DVD and no luck. Same trail effect. He was telling me that he thought it improved slightly. I told him, maybe to you, but then again he also pre-filled his writeup form that I was satisified. He had to scribble it out, after he tried for nearly an entire hour to convince me otherwise. I just signed for him installing a new board. He told me that he could the phosphor "drag" or "lag" but he said it was sooo slight, that I should just accept it and that it was inherent to the technology.

He said that going from black to white to black again, that the transfer rate would produce these slow decaying phosphors. I told him, that I talk with a bunch of other owners of the same TV that say they haven't seen the problem. (Btw. to test if you can see this phosphor drag, check out Star Wars: A New Hope, right after the text crawl (1st chapter) the camera pans down and a planet moon goes from the bottom of the screen to the top. Look for a "faint comet trail". I'm going to go to Circuit City to test it. If anyone has this DVD (first in the orginal trilogy), can they test to see if they can see it?

Btw. the tech put the TV into Vivid mode to see if it would mask the trail. I'm like I don't keep it in that crappy mode. Nonetheless you could still see faint trail.

A bit of frustration but, we shall see, what we shall see! ;-) Time to call Sony again...

liquidneba:

I had the same board replaced in my TV with no fix to the trailing issue. I've been meaning to follow up with them (will do so tomorrow). I'll report back if I learn anything more.

Well I had the certified Sony Tech come out. He changed the YB board (or is it BY). We tried the same material off of the DVD and no luck. Same trail effect. He was telling me that he thought it improved slightly. I told him, maybe to you, but then again he also pre-filled his writeup form that I was satisified. He had to scribble it out, after he tried for nearly an entire hour to convince me otherwise. I just signed for him installing a new board. He told me that he could the phosphor "drag" or "lag" but he said it was sooo slight, that I should just accept it and that it was inherent to the technology.

He said that going from black to white to black again, that the transfer rate would produce these slow decaying phosphors. I told him, that I talk with a bunch of other owners of the same TV that say they haven't seen the problem. (Btw. to test if you can see this phosphor drag, check out Star Wars: A New Hope, right after the text crawl (1st chapter) the camera pans down and a planet moon goes from the bottom of the screen to the top. Look for a "faint comet trail". I'm going to go to Circuit City to test it. If anyone has this DVD (first in the orginal trilogy), can they test to see if they can see it?

Btw. the tech put the TV into Vivid mode to see if it would mask the trail. I'm like I don't keep it in that crappy mode. Nonetheless you could still see faint trail.

A bit of frustration but, we shall see, what we shall see! ;-) Time to call Sony again...

Probably doesn't matter, but do be mindful of this: That Star Wars Episode IV DVD has some very known, and unforgiveable, glitches with certain special effects and what not.

MAYBE that's what you're seeing there? *knocks on wood* I'll test my DVD and see what I see.

Putting the TV in Vivid, I would think, would be the LAST thing you'd want to do for a problem like that! Throw that pup into Pro and Monitor and make sure your brightness and contrast are well below 50. 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value for contrast or brightness!

Make sure you color is dead center on 31, sharpness around 20-ish, and hue at dead center, and see if that helps out all.

Keep VM on low.

Q,

I've seen it as well with Episode 5 The Empire Strikes Back (check chapter 30, when the Falcon flies around the screen to attack the star destroyer) on my TV there's a trail right after the ship. I've gotten Brightness at 44 for me, sharpness at 15, color 31, hue 31, picture 35 (pro mode) and monitor Vm low.

Q,

I've seen it as well with Episode 5 The Empire Strikes Back (check chapter 30, when the Falcon flies around the screen to attack the star destroyer) on my TV there's a trail right after the ship. I've gotten Brightness at 44 for me, sharpness at 15, color 31, hue 31, picture 35 (pro mode) and monitor Vm low.

Ok. Your settings aren't all that different from mine. I'll check these two scenes out mentioned in the past few posts and see what I see...

You've swapped the norm for the X and Y axis so using standard practice along the X axis (horizontal) is 29 1/2" and along the Y axis (vertical) is 16 3/4". Thanks for the info and the reminder! :)

I was doing some "tweaking" in SM last night and now I have a problem. When I display the User Menu, select Pro mode and press the reset on the remote control, the Pro mode settings default to the Vivid mode settings. Even the small white circles on the slider bars that indicate where the factory settings are (Picture, Brightness, etc.) have moved to the same areas on the slider bars as the Vivid settings. I've unplugged the set and pressed the "Reset" button on the remote for each mode. All other modes are OK - just Pro mode now resets to Vivid mode settings.

Does anyone know what I might have done wrong and how to correct this??

AMAZING!

I have to share this good story with you all.

I had purchased my XBR960 from Crutchfield at the end fo May. Keep that date in mind.

The Sony price drop happened on July 1.

When that did, I contacted them right away with the links to SonyStyle proving the price drop and asked "Would it be possible for a price matching refund since I boght this TV from you all just about 30 days ago?".

Since this was over the July 4 weekend, nothing could really be done and they apologized that they could take no action until "we see the price drop officially confirmed here."

That happened right after the holiday. Crutchfield officially adjusted their prices to match the Sony price drops.

To make a long story short, they went back to my prior correspondence, saw that I had made my request right on the cusp of my 30 day time window...and they're refunding me the $300 difference!

Keep in mind that I never had to beg, rant, and twist a lot of arms to get this done. We're talking about maybe two casual emails, in passing, on the subject. Email and phone correspondence since day one couldn't have been better! These people are great!

WOW! AWESOME Cruthchfield! AWESOME! :D

About 8-9 months ago this thread saw many posts from owners of XBR960s about the failure of their sets to turn, even after following Sony's resetting procedure. As a result, the failed sets needed to be serviced. These reports caused some concern, but I did buy a XBR960 last November, and, although I use only twice a week, it always has turned on normally. At about the same time that I purchased my TV, a friend obtained Sony's 30" widescreen HDTV, KD-30SX955. About two weeks after purchasing the TV, it required resetting. Last week, it failed once again to turn on and resetting the TV did not help. Instead, upon powering the TV on, it emitted a series of clicks, then a snapping sound and shut itself off. The TV will now require service and unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.
I am writing to inquire of those who experienced a similar problem with their XBR960s what was determined to be the cause of the problem and what did the service technician do to fix it? Moreover has the set operated normally since being repaired? Any information that can be provided will be of great help to my friend, and also to me should my set fail to turn on in the future.
Thanks very much.
Ron

Yesterday I accidentally gouged a nice scratch in the anti-reflective coating on the front of my XBR960. The scratch was horrendously noticeable right in the middle of the screen. So today I tried to buff it out and buffed off the anti-reflective coating in the area of the scratch which created a nuisance of its own that was just as bad as the original scratch. I did notice that the picture coming through the area I buffed was much brighter than the surrounding normal areas. So I buffed off all the anti-reflective coating over the entire screen. End result: Much brighter picture, better contrast, better color, and no more red push! I wish I had done this earlier. I don't have the anti-reflection anymore, but I don't need it because my room is dark enough anyway. Just thought I'd share this info.

Yesterday I accidentally gouged a nice scratch in the anti-reflective coating on the front of my XBR960. The scratch was horrendously noticeable right in the middle of the screen. So today I tried to buff it out and buffed off the anti-reflective coating in the area of the scratch which created a nuisance of its own that was just as bad as the original scratch. I did notice that the picture coming through the area I buffed was much brighter than the surrounding normal areas. So I buffed off all the anti-reflective coating over the entire screen. End result: Much brighter picture, better contrast, better color, and no more red push! I wish I had done this earlier. I don't have the anti-reflection anymore, but I don't need it because my room is dark enough anyway. Just thought I'd share this info.

A happy accident, at best. I would NOT recommend that ANYONE deliberately destroys the anti-glare coating, which I thnk is a God send myself.

You know how you get rid of red push? Simply calibrate out of Pro and Monitor and LEAVE IT THERE. Keep Hue at dead center zero and keep your color at 31.

About 8-9 months ago this thread saw many posts from owners of XBR960s about the failure of their sets to turn, even after following Sony's resetting procedure. As a result, the failed sets needed to be serviced. These reports caused some concern, but I did buy a XBR960 last November, and, although I use only twice a week, it always has turned on normally. At about the same time that I purchased my TV, a friend obtained Sony's 30" widescreen HDTV, KD-30SX955. About two weeks after purchasing the TV, it required resetting. Last week, it failed once again to turn on and resetting the TV did not help. Instead, upon powering the TV on, it emitted a series of clicks, then a snapping sound and shut itself off. The TV will now require service and unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.
I am writing to inquire of those who experienced a similar problem with their XBR960s what was determined to be the cause of the problem and what did the service technician do to fix it? Moreover has the set operated normally since being repaired? Any information that can be provided will be of great help to my friend, and also to me should my set fail to turn on in the future.
Thanks very much.
Ron

I would like to know about this problem as well. Just bought the KD-30SX955 last week. Curious how much it will cost to fix this problem and if it's worth getting the extended warranty.

I would like to know about this problem as well. Just bought the KD-30SX955 last week. Curious how much it will cost to fix this problem and if it's worth getting the extended warranty.

See how much of a percentage the extra warranty is, but I almost always say "yes", go for the best extended warranty you can get.

Do you recommend any companies that have good extended warranty service outside Best Buy?

Has anyone out there ever wondered if this thread really is official?

AMAZING!

I have to share this good story with you all.

I had purchased my XBR960 from Crutchfield at the end fo May. Keep that date in mind.

The Sony price drop happened on July 1.

When that did, I contacted them right away with the links to SonyStyle proving the price drop and asked "Would it be possible for a price matching refund since I boght this TV from you all just about 30 days ago?".

Since this was over the July 4 weekend, nothing could really be done and they apologized that they could take no action until "we see the price drop officially confirmed here."

That happened right after the holiday. Crutchfield officially adjusted their prices to match the Sony price drops.

To make a long story short, they went back to my prior correspondence, saw that I had made my request right on the cusp of my 30 day time window...and they're refunding me the $300 difference!

Keep in mind that I never had to beg, rant, and twist a lot of arms to get this done. We're talking about maybe two casual emails, in passing, on the subject. Email and phone correspondence since day one couldn't have been better! These people are great!

WOW! AWESOME Cruthchfield! AWESOME! :D


Sweet deal and shipped free too! I got my xbr960 from CC in Oct 2004 for the same price as it is now, although I had to pay taxes, but I also got a free basic Sony HTIB along with it as well.

Has anyone had a Sony tech or someone else who was certified attempt to repair the horizontal bowing on your set by opening it up and messing around with the magnets? Once I get a picture of it, I'd love to post it to see if the bowing I get is minor or major compared to others. It seems that adding magnets is an inexact science and that you could adjust magnets all day and never get it perfect.

Is there any service menu settings that can attempt to minimize bowing or is the service menu only for vertical bowing?

Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning this dust magnet screen on the 960? Right now I wipe it off with a CD cleaning cloth but it's getting pretty dirty.

On another note I had mine ISF calibrated last night. Very happy with the results. I'll post more later.

John,

Glad to hear that you are happy with the ISF calibration. Could you provide me with contact information for your calibrator? If you can't post it in this thread, please PM me (billmail1@yahoo.com).

Thanks!!

Has anyone had a Sony tech or someone else who was certified attempt to repair the horizontal bowing on your set by opening it up and messing around with the magnets? Once I get a picture of it, I'd love to post it to see if the bowing I get is minor or major compared to others. It seems that adding magnets is an inexact science and that you could adjust magnets all day and never get it perfect.

Is there any service menu settings that can attempt to minimize bowing or is the service menu only for vertical bowing?

I am getting my set ISF calibrated next Wednesday. For $300, he's going to do it all INCLUDING handle any gemetry and convergeance issues. I'll let you know what the heck happens here and try and take notes without being a pain in the arse to him. ;)

does the 30inch XBR955 have the same horizontal resolution 1,400 as the 34inch XBR955 & 34inch XBR960..

I am getting my set ISF calibrated next Wednesday. For $300, he's going to do it all INCLUDING handle any gemetry and convergeance issues. I'll let you know what the heck happens here and try and take notes without being a pain in the arse to him. ;)

Where do you live. You are getting a great price :cool:

Where do you live. You are getting a great price :cool:

Western Ohio.

If anyone is interested CC has this set available on sale for under eighteen hundred dollars this week.

Just got my Kd-34xbr960 from Abt Electronics. So far, I love it.
I have, however, a potentially stupid question. I tend to keep the boxes that my electronic components come in as a matter of course. However, the box that the Kd-34xbr960 ships in is, as many of you know, HUGE. And though the TV arrived in perfect shape, the bottom of the box showed significant wear and tear. I'm not sure it could endure another journey.

So I'm thinking of throwing out the box.

Or would that be a completely stupid thing to do?

No, Warranty on this TV is in-home so you shouldn't need the box.

Only if you ever plan to move or sell the tv the box can be very helpful to have.
I saved mine.

Thought I'd share my saga with my 960. I picked up my set in mid-February, took it home, hooked it up, turned it on and was floored by what I saw. There wasn't a straight picture edge anywhere on the screen. Vertical edges on 4x3 pictures had a 2 inch hook to the outside at the top on both sides. Horizontal lines on letterboxed material (such as 2.35 AR movies) were bowed down on top and up at the bottom. It was simply unacceptable.

Because I got it through the military exchange special order, there was no dealer to work with. I had to use Sony's service system. For the most part they were friendly and helpful and seemed anxious to make me happy. Trouble is that there didn't seem to be anyone on the face of the planet who could fix it. Initially, the first repairman who came to the house didn't have the service manual and basically threw up his hands. Two weeks later he returned with the manual, fussed with the settings for over two hours and accomplished nothing.

Sony next sent out a second serviceman, one that was supposed to be their "superstar". He decided to pick up the unit and take it back to his shop forty miles away. He kept it 4 weeks and called me to come look at the great improvement he had made. When I saw it it was exactly the same. I even asked the guy if he was freakin blind. He happened to have the same set in his showroom and I pointed out that his set had the same problem. He was distressed to see that. I refused to accept the set. For the next 5 weeks he worked with Sony tech support multiple times and finally called me to tell me he had cured the problem and they were returning it. If you guessed that it wasn't fixed, you got it right. If anything, it was worse.

Back on the phone to Sony. They offered to exchange the set. They asked me to go look at sets all over town to see if any of them would be acceptable to me. I must have looked at 23 different sets and none of them were what I'd judge much better than mine. All had significant, disturbing geometric distortion. But, despite this, I told Sony to exchange my set.

Glad I did. The new unit was almost perfect in geometry. All horizontal lines are razor sharp and straight. There is a very slight tilt to vertical lines which nearly completely disappears as the set warms up. Overall, the performance of this set is night and day better than my first unit.

My original unit was built in Dec 04; the new one Jun 05. The menus and other on-screen displays are slightly different from the first to the last. This leads me to believe that Sony revised the programming recently in response to numerous complaints. My guess is that there was nothing servicemen could do with the original programming.

Although it took about 5 months to get the problem resolved, I am at last a happy customer. As all of you know, there isn't a better high-def picture available anywhere. (Easily beats my 110 inch front projector and any plasma available!) One last thing: Sony restarted my 2-year warranty with the delivery of the replacement set.

Moral: if you're having problems with your 960, keep working with Sony support until you get it resolved. You will eventually prevail.

Vinnie,

I'm very sorry to hear about your problems with the 960. Did you try to return or exchange the TV at your Base Exchange or through the AFFES mail order service? I'm retired military and currently work on a military installation. In my experience, AAFES has always been very cooperative about accepting returns, even Special Orders. Even if they do not have a replacement in stock, they will attempt to locate one for you or return your money. Was there an AFFES near your location? Your post sounds like there wasn't any in your area. You definitely went through a lot of trouble and headaches to find a 960 that was acceptable to you and, fortunately, Sony was very cooperative. Glad everything worked out!!!

Vinnie, can you describe in detail the differences in the menu systems between the two sets? I'm curious... if it's anything really worth getting I might try to make Sony upgrade the firmware on my (older) set.

UPDATE: My ISF job happened yesterday. I know some people were asking me about it and how it went, etc. So, here ya go: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596

Odd question: Does anyone happen to know what the maximum possible refresh rate is for this TV? I know 60hz is common. Can it go past that?

Vinnie,

I'm very sorry to hear about your problems with the 960. Did you try to return or exchange the TV at your Base Exchange or through the AFFES mail order service? I'm retired military and currently work on a military installation. In my experience, AAFES has always been very cooperative about accepting returns, even Special Orders. Even if they do not have a replacement in stock, they will attempt to locate one for you or return your money. Was there an AFFES near your location? Your post sounds like there wasn't any in your area. You definitely went through a lot of trouble and headaches to find a 960 that was acceptable to you and, fortunately, Sony was very cooperative. Glad everything worked out!!!


The TV was special ordered thru the AAFES website, not thru the local exchange. The local exchange didn't list the 960 as an item they could order. Only was available on line. AAFES made it clear to me that there would be no return.

This whole episode was rather bizarre in other ways as well. First, AAFES insisted that the unit had to be delivered to a local exchange, not to my house for some reason. That's why I had to actually pickup the heavy turkey myself. What's was even more irritating is that even though I alerted the local PX (on the National Guard installation in Austin) that the set was coming and even though I checked with them about once a week after waiting a month, the local exchange denied ever getting the unit. Finally I talked to the guy who works the forklift in the warehouse and he said the TV had been gathering dust for over two months and they were wondering who it was for.

As you said, at least it worked out in the end.

Vinnie, can you describe in detail the differences in the menu systems between the two sets? I'm curious... if it's anything really worth getting I might try to make Sony upgrade the firmware on my (older) set.


Here's two things that I know of (or think I do). First, the first unit had a full rectagular box around the words "Video 5" (for example) in the upper left corner of the picture. The new set has a line only on the bottom and right side, not on the top and left side. Obviously, this is not important, but it was my first indication that something had changed.

Second, my first unit had only a tilt adjustment in setup. The new unit has both tilt and vertical position adjustments. This has allowed me to raise the picture enough to fully see the score crawl on ESPN-HD at the bottom of the screen (for example). The first set cut off the bottom third of the crawl and there was no way to adjust it. Good ole Sony and its notorious excessive overscan!

There may be other changes as well. I haven't had the set long enough to discover everything. The biggest change, which has to be firmware, is that the picture has razor straight horizontal lines. No amount of effort by the service folks was able to adjust the first unit to achieve this.

I read of this problem on the forum back in February when I first got the set home. I see a few pages back that some folks still have questions about the "bowing" of horizontal lines and are talking about moving magnets and the like. My advice is to keep screaming at Sony (or your dealer) until you get a unit that is right. They do exist.

Vinnie,
If I understand you correctly the box around video inputs used to be a full rectangle....and now you have the bottom and right side? This is more likely to mean that you have an alignment issue rather than a software change. I too was able to make the top and the left go away when I overdid the VPOS setting.... My mid-Feb XBR960 has the option to adjust the vertical...I am guessing if you were to put the vertical so that you have the half crawl you will get the full video rectangle box again. Overscan!
BB

Vinnie,
If I understand you correctly the box around video inputs used to be a full rectangle....and now you have the bottom and right side? This is more likely to mean that you have an alignment issue rather than a software change. I too was able to make the top and the left go away when I overdid the VPOS setting.... My mid-Feb XBR960 has the option to adjust the vertical...I am guessing if you were to put the vertical so that you have the half crawl you will get the full video rectangle box again. Overscan!
BB

You understand what I was describing. However, moving the VPOS control all the way so that the ESPN crawl practically disappears doesn't change the box (or lack of box, actually) around the input indicator. There has definitely been a change to the graphics. As I said, the lack of a full rectangle around the input indicator is completely irrelevant. I only mention this as an indicator that something has changed.

Didn't say it before, but the overscan has been slightly improved. The local FOX HD channel thru Time Warner Cable displays their irritating, always on, logo what seems to be about 2 pixels from the right and bottom edge of the screen. My DLP front projector is just able to display the full logo with the "2 -pixel" border. My first 960 cut off about 1/3 of the logo and no amount of fiddling with it by the service guys could improve it. The new set shows the whole logo, but with no room to spare. Maybe Sony is getting the word on overscan.

The report of JohnGZ28 on his ISF experience was amazing. If I thought I could find as good a calibrator in Texas as his was, I'd hire him in a heartbeat. I have heard that not every ISF guy is as dedicated or skilled as the one that squared away his unit. Anyone used a Texas ISF guy with the kind of success that John had?

The report of JohnGZ28 on his ISF experience was amazing. If I thought I could find as good a calibrator in Texas as his was, I'd hire him in a heartbeat. I have heard that not every ISF guy is as dedicated or skilled as the one that squared away his unit. Anyone used a Texas ISF guy with the kind of success that John had?

Q of BanditZ and I had great results from our calibrators. The guy who did mine is Chuck Williams. Unfortunately for me he is moving to the west coast in a couple of weeks.

I asked for recommendations in the Local HDTV forum as well as checking a few other sites and his name was the one that came up consistantly.

Q of BanditZ and I had great results from our calibrators. The guy who did mine is Chuck Williams. Unfortunately for me he is moving to the west coast in a couple of weeks.

I asked for recommendations in the Local HDTV forum as well as checking a few other sites and his name was the one that came up consistantly.

Vinnie,

As I understand it, Chuck's company www.lionav.com can reach out to just about anywhere. You can't lose anything and you aren't stuck under a binding contract if you go to their website and fill out their form requesting an ISF calibration.

They have a man named Steve Martin located right in Dallas, TX. I'm sure anyone that's a part of this company, like Gregg Loewen, Chuck Williams, etc. is going to give you top of the line service all the way. These guys are considered amongst the best, as is my man Chad Billheimer, here in the Midwest. (Although Chad is not with Lion AV, but same caliber of service all the way! )

Other things that might help you:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm That's THE main ISF webpage and its search engine to find an ISF calibrator near you. This is how I discovered Chad Billheimer for my area.

http://www.milori.com/community/calibrator/ This was also where I found out about Chad B. and I was intruiged by what I read about on this site. These sites might help you out as well. (Or anyone else for that matter.)

Check 'em out!




I'm trying to look this up, but in the meantime, here's an interesting question:

Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?

I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.

What's the story on this, people?

Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.

liquidneba: Did you ever get anywhere with your trailing issue on your set? I've been busy with work, so haven't had the time to set up a service appointment. Will be doing that this week.

Is there any way to adjust the convergence on the KD-34XBR960? Mine is out in the middle to lower left of the screen.

Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.


I have a 35 lb. www.htd.com Level 4 center channel speaker sitting on top of my XBR960 right now. I notice that it will create a slight gouse field in the upper right corner of the TV sometimes...and then I can make it go away. The speaker is shielded.

Dimensions (HxWxD) 8 3/4" x 23 3/4" x 11 5/8"

I wouldn't want my speaker to be any bigger or heavier than that!

Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.

It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.

Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.

It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.

Two things:

1.) Your speaker is a tiny fraction of the size and weight mine is. ;)

2.) I really don't want to put a shelf in the wall if I can help it.

I'm probably looking at some furniture after I get some new carpets in here come Fall. Long story short: I'm long overdue for a furniture upgrade for my TV and all of my gear.

I'll try and figure something out, as I'd like to not have this very slight gouse field in the upper right corner.

On 2:35:1 and up material and so on, it's a non-issue, but if it's full 16X9...I can notice it a little bit in bright or white scenes. Not the end of the world..

Two things:

I'll try and figure something out, as I'd like to not have this very slight gouse field in the upper right corner.

On 2:35:1 and up material and so on, it's a non-issue, but if it's full 16X9...I can notice it a little bit in bright or white scenes. Not the end of the world..

CC sells a center speaker shelf that mounts on the top of the TV. You could place your cable box or DVD player on there and then the center speaker on top of it to get it further away from the screen. These probably work better for DLPs but it's worth a shot.

CC sells a center speaker shelf that mounts on the top of the TV. You could place your cable box or DVD player on there and then the center speaker on top of it to get it further away from the screen. These probably work better for DLPs but it's worth a shot.

I've seen those. Too flimsy. :(

Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.

It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.

The P-Digm 470 is 9x23x12 and the 570 is 9x26x13 and 34lbs and 45lbs.

A shelf on the wall would put the speaker about 2' behind the screen. I looked at one of the shelves that sit on top of the tv but like Q says they are a bit flimsy.

I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html

The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.

I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html

The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.

Not bad! Definitely bookmarking that!

I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html

The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.

Nice stand but, I already have one of these:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html

and I can't fit a center channel and my equipment on it.

Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.

I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.

Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.

I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.

I'm keeping it until it literally dies in my face, like the last Sony Trinitron I owned from 1982. Why? Because I agree with everything you just wrote here, and then some.

I wouldn't think that "thin CRT's" should mean a loss in quality. You'd like to think we've made advancements in 20 years, right? ;)

I don't see a technology surfacing and PERFECTING itself in 3-5 years that I expect to equal or BEAT CRT tubes across the boards.

I'd say this: Keep an eye on SED and OLED. Those are my two wild cards in my back pocket. ;)

Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.

I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.

My 960 replaced a 27"XBR purchased in Dec. 1989. The 27" has been turned over to my daughters now. Hopefully the 960 will last just as long and it will be moved into one of my daughter's rooms and be replaced with what ever the latest technology has to offer.

Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.

I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.

Alas, I, too, bought an XBR set in the early '90's that is now in my daughter's room. I bought my first Trinitron in 1973. But I think I will be replacing my '960 well before the 10 or 15-year mark. What with? Probably not a CRT. It seems everything is getting better, so I think the difference in picture quality between CRT's and other technologies will decrease. My bet is I'll wind up with an LCD. But one thing's for sure--I want something bigger than 34". I need 42" or larger. So, while I love the '960, the CRT is too small and also too heavy.

So, while I love the '960, the CRT is too small and also too heavy.

This is a common complaint, the TV being to heavy. Just curious as to how often people move their TV around? Mine is pretty much fixed in it's location other than when the carpet is professionally cleaned.

With surround sound set ups and theater seating that a lot of people have I can't see rearranging the furniture every few months like when you just had the TV and sofa to move.

This is a common complaint, the TV being to heavy. Just curious as to how often people move their TV around? Mine is pretty much fixed in it's location other than when the carpet is professionally cleaned.

With surround sound set ups and theater seating that a lot of people have I can't see rearranging the furniture every few months like when you just had the TV and sofa to move.

You don't. It's a lame excuse.

"Too small" is a complaint I understand...although I contend most people can easily adjust their viewing distance. Unless you're going for outright home movie theater experience, of course.

Short of that, I'd rather just move my seat up a few feet instead spending thousands of dollars on an inferior technology just so I can sit 12+ feet away from it.

The heavy thing never floats with me at all. It's reek of lameness.

Once the TV is set in you room...why in the world would you ever need to move it, and if you did...wouldn't that involve moving men or friends to help you out? Sorry, that's always been a super lame excuse in my book. Doesn't float.

DLP's and LCD's "only" weigh 100 or so pounds in comparision at minimum, if you go for something 42 inches or bigger.

Can anyone offer me a word of advice? I'm just about to pull the trigger on the 960, to replace my 36XBR400 (HD but not widescreen). I got burned when I bought the 400 because Sony followed it up rather quickly with a newer model (the 600, I believe). My question is: is the 960 going to be around for awhile, or is a newer tube model on the near horizon? I noticed that my local Circuit City has the set for $1899, down from $2199. I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have. I'm ready...just a little gunshy. Can anyone offer a suggestion on this?

Can anyone offer me a word of advice? I'm just about to pull the trigger on the 960, to replace my 36XBR400 (HD but not widescreen). I got burned when I bought the 400 because Sony followed it up rather quickly with a newer model (the 600, I believe). My question is: is the 960 going to be around for awhile, or is a newer tube model on the near horizon? I noticed that my local Circuit City has the set for $1899, down from $2199. I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have. I'm ready...just a little gunshy. Can anyone offer a suggestion on this?

tivo:

As far as I am aware, there is no successor to the 960 on the near horizon. The 960 was the successor to the 910, improving the Super Fine Pitch technology among other things. Since I haven't seen a 16:9 widescreen CRT larger than 34", the only improvement in a successor to the 960 I could see is adding more HDMI/DVI inputs or improving the built-in speakers (though most 960 users probably use a 5.1 HT setup).

I think the price drop is simply due to the 960 being in ample supply and Sony being able to cut down costs due to higher production. I believe if you bought the 960 now, you would be happy with it for several years, if not longer. There is no viable technology on the near horizon that can surpass CRT, so an investment in this set would pay off in years of enjoyment.

tivotony, I believe the 960 will be around for another year or so. It will probably be the last of the CRTs Sony makes, which is a REAL SHAME. I'm getting one myself since I'm not sold on any of the other technologies yet. And right now the price on it is great.

Thanks so much.

I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have.I think you'll find the difference between using HDMI (from what source?) and component video to be essentially, if not absolute, zero with this set.

I've tried connecting my DCT6412 to my XBR960 via DVI-to-HDMI, and also my JVC DT100U to my XBR960 via HDMI-to-HDMI, and I feel there is flat zero difference in either of these and component video from the same devices to the XBR960. Even using the firewire path from these same devices to the XBR960 produces zero difference in observable picture quality.

Don't get me wrong, I think the picture from the XBR960 is the absolute best there is. But I don't think its HDMI input for use from "ordinary" sources is the source of that magic, and really shouldn't be the sole justification for buying it.

Now having an HDMI input available for upcoming HD-DVD or BluRay... well that will be much appreciated.

The HDMI over component offers what I classify as a "refinement", but not a night and day, earth shattering picture quality difference by any means.

It also just has all around better circuitry and features vs. the older XBR 400 and 800. Like was said before: If you're buying this set, you're making an investment towards many years of enjoyment. :)

I have both the component and firewire hooked to my 960 from the Comcast Motorola dual tuner PVR and when I switch between the two inputs there is I would estimate about a 5% better quality picture on the firewire input. I also can do the same with my JVC 5U D-VHS connected to the firewire on the cable box and the TV via HDMI and when I switch from the HDMI to the cable box component I see a similar difference. Not great but it can be seen.

HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice. :)

HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice. :)

The 36XBr400 is my dad's tv down in the basement. That's hardly a piece of junk you've got there! You have a first generation (or close to it) HD Monitor and one of the better ones.

But, the XBr960 is...2-3 (?) generations worth of advancements in all aspects including, of course, the widescreen and HDMI.

If you make a move on the 960, I know you won't be disappointed. I would hope you could find some other use for that XBR400 or maybe even sell it and put that money towards the purchase of the 960. The 960 IS a signifigant upgrade from the XBR400.

Good luck! :)

Q of BanditZ: I just want to congragulate you on shutting down that other thread--that was a hoot!

hey, im practically sold on this Tv, as anyone here says that its better than Lcd's, I was considering the new 32" panasonic LCD, but now im leaning more towards the XBR960, I just have one Question, I canot order online, because im overseas, but I plan on going to L.A. for some business next week and will also be picking up my XBR960, where can I get the best price for this set in L.A.?? I have searched TVAuthority's website but they dont sell it, and the cheapest that I have found it for is $1899 at bestbuy or CC, the thing is that I have seen it on oonline stores for as little as $1395....... any advice would be greatly apreciated.....

hey, im practically sold on this Tv, as anyone here says that its better than Lcd's, I was considering the new 32" panasonic LCD, but now im leaning more towards the XBR960, I just have one Question, I canot order online, because im overseas, but I plan on going to L.A. for some business next week and will also be picking up my XBR960, where can I get the best price for this set in L.A.?? I have searched TVAuthority's website but they dont sell it, and the cheapest that I have found it for is $1899 at bestbuy or CC, the thing is that I have seen it on oonline stores for as little as $1395....... any advice would be greatly apreciated.....

Go to CC or BB to get it. I have had 0 problems with my set, but if you should a problem with yours CC or BB will probably be the easiest to deal with.

Q of BanditZ: I just want to congragulate you on shutting down that other thread--that was a hoot!

I think I lost several IQ points during that experience. I'm glad Alan took care of it. I hope a ban was involved as well.

More on the trailing issue...

I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.

More on the trailing issue...

I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.

Keep us posted!

HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice. :)

You lose roughly one inch viewing ws content on that 36inch then if you had a 34inch ws sony. The diffrence is pretty small..i believe for a 36inch you get a 33inch ws picture. On the 34 inch widescreen tv's..you get your 34inch ws picture.

HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice. :)
It shouldn’t make any difference in widescreen, if you are loosing picture to the right and left, you may need some overscan adjustment. If you are viewing “letterbox” content with the bars on top and bottom, you should not be loosing any picture content, it’s just a little smaller (5%). Your 36” 4:3 TV will display a 33” 16:9 image (28.8” x 16.2”). That 1” difference from the 34” widescreen (29.6” x 16.7”) TV is only a 5% reduction in picture size. Not enough to worry about.

liquidneba: Did you ever get anywhere with your trailing issue on your set? I've been busy with work, so haven't had the time to set up a service appointment. Will be doing that this week.

Hey Brad,

I was in the same situation as well, work work... work! The problem wasn't resolved. Anyway, I told Leader TV (Rochester, NY) that I would go to Circuit City and check how the dvds looked like on the display model. I finally did it today, and I couldn't see a ghosting/trailing issue at all. What I did was, I had them connect a Sony DVD player component video, so I could watch progressive. I then quickly changed the settings to the Pro, monitor, etc. etc. I watched the DVD's the scenes where I could easily reproduce the trailing on my TV at home. One word... nada, I think you and I have defective sets. I'll be calling Leader TV tomorrow, to update them so they can update Sony and get this ball rolling again for a new TV!

Btw. reading Q's ISF calibration story, made me a little misty eyed, I'm very happy for you Q, enjoy TV nirvanca, I hope to join you in a few months! Maybe I can get Chad to come to Rochester.


Regards,

More on the trailing issue...

I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.


You and I need to stay in touch on this. We'll get to the bottom. I'll do my half to keep everyone here updated. Btw. when the Tech was at my house a few weeks ago to put the new board in, I took a few pictures. Guess what the firewire is connected a usb connector inside. I wonder... I have pictures if anyone would like to see.

I posted about this issue I've had with the PS2 and Xbox on my 960 when I got the set a year ago, and no-one had an answer then...but I thought maybe someone had solved it in the meantime, so here I am asking again:

For whatever reason, when I use the PS2 and Xbox on the 960, the signal for games that are supposed to be 16:9 is read as being 4:3, so the picture is stretched no matter what mode I select on the TV. Xbox games that are 720p or 1080i are correctly interpreted as 16:9, but anything in 480p on either system is parsed as 4:3. Both systems are connected by component cables that pass through my Denon AVR-3805 en route to the TV. When I run a DVD player into the TV, its 480p signal is correctly parsed as 16:9, but with game consoles, it's no dice. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this, or if there's any solution--short of an uber-expensive device to upscan the console signals to 720p--that would allow me to get unstretched, undistorted proper aspect-ratio images from game consoles on the 960? Thanks!

Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.


I placed my CC570 from my front projector HT room on top of my 960 (which is going into another room). It fits and is stable up there. However, it really is large, being almost as wide as the screen. I turned everything on and there was no problem with interference from the speaker sitting so close to the CRT. Paradigm's shielding seems to do the job. BTW, I can't say enough good about my Studio Paradigms. Awesome sound.

Here's a picture if I did this correctly:

I posted about this issue I've had with the PS2 and Xbox on my 960 when I got the set a year ago, and no-one had an answer then...but I thought maybe someone had solved it in the meantime, so here I am asking again:

For whatever reason, when I use the PS2 and Xbox on the 960, the signal for games that are supposed to be 16:9 is read as being 4:3, so the picture is stretched no matter what mode I select on the TV. Xbox games that are 720p or 1080i are correctly interpreted as 16:9, but anything in 480p on either system is parsed as 4:3. Both systems are connected by component cables that pass through my Denon AVR-3805 en route to the TV. When I run a DVD player into the TV, its 480p signal is correctly parsed as 16:9, but with game consoles, it's no dice. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this, or if there's any solution--short of an uber-expensive device to upscan the console signals to 720p--that would allow me to get unstretched, undistorted proper aspect-ratio images from game consoles on the 960? Thanks!


I can only speak about Xbox and what you are describing is a known "bug" with the console.

However, games that support widescreen in 480p will NOT look distorted if you stretch them despite that the TV doesn't pick up the 16:9 signal.

Supposedly the Xbox 360 will fix all of that in November since EVERY game will be in 720p or 1080i.

It's not a glitch. Many Xbox games say "HDTV 480p" on the back, but that doesn't mean anamorphic widescreen. Only true HD is going to be outright 16X9.

PS2 games, for the most part, don't even have that.

I've tested the Xbox away from my receiver, any which wayyou choose, and with the dashboard properly set.

You either have to throw the 960 to Full or Wide Zoom and then it's perfect. If you hit display, you'll see that the TV says "480p 4:3" even if your Xbox is set to 16X9 and everything is turned on. That's just the way it is. Nothing to be done about it with this present generation of games and gaming hardware.

I'm VERY much looking forward to playing my games in true 16X9 HD come this November.

Does anyone know if there are any software or firmware updates available for the 960? For such a complex set that runs Linux on it, I would imagine that something would need to be updated eventually. I heard somewhere that there was some update available on a Memory Stick. Does anyone have any insight? A look at Sony's difficult-to-navigate site shows no available updates.

Does anyone know if there are any software or firmware updates available for the 960? For such a complex set that runs Linux on it, I would imagine that something would need to be updated eventually. I heard somewhere that there was some update available on a Memory Stick. Does anyone have any insight? A look at Sony's difficult-to-navigate site shows no available updates.

No idea. Maybe try and call Sony?

I can only speak about Xbox and what you are describing is a known "bug" with the console.

However, games that support widescreen in 480p will NOT look distorted if you stretch them despite that the TV doesn't pick up the 16:9 signal.

Supposedly the Xbox 360 will fix all of that in November since EVERY game will be in 720p or 1080i.


This is what I've heard, but in many games that theoretically truly support widescreen, there's still evidence of stretching (if the buttons are shown onscreen in control-customization menu, for example, they often look slightly oval instead of perfectly round.

I'm really, *really* hoping that the Xbox 360's backwards compatability will include the ability to output old Xbox games at 720p...that'd completely solve this problem, at least where the Xbox is concerned.

I placed my CC570 from my front projector HT room on top of my 960 (which is going into another room). It fits and is stable up there. However, it really is large, being almost as wide as the screen. I turned everything on and there was no problem with interference from the speaker sitting so close to the CRT. Paradigm's shielding seems to do the job. BTW, I can't say enough good about my Studio Paradigms. Awesome sound.
Here's a picture if I did this correctly:

Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.

Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.


No, but I'll stick the speaker back up on the set and rattle the windows for the next couple of days and I'll report here on the results.

I've got my 960 sitting on the floor in my HT below the screen while I worked with Sony on getting a unit that could actually display straight lines. After I have burned in the set for a couple of weeks to confirm that it is not going to fail, it will be installed in a location that will make further servicing difficult.

Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.

You might want to try some velcro (no kidding). I picked up some from my local drugstore on my wife's advice and slapped it on the bottom of my center channel. It seems to be very stable on top of the TV now -- doesn't wobble or shift around at all. Kind of a ghetto solution, I guess, but it works and it's cheaper than buying a shelf for it.

I have a smaller Cambridge Soundworks center channel, but like the other posters, I haven't noticed any interference with the screen with it sitting on top of the Tv. Magnetic shielding must be working, I guess.

You might want to try some velcro (no kidding). I picked up some from my local drugstore on my wife's advice and slapped it on the bottom of my center channel. It seems to be very stable on top of the TV now -- doesn't wobble or shift around at all. Kind of a ghetto solution, I guess, but it works and it's cheaper than buying a shelf for it.

I have a smaller Cambridge Soundworks center channel, but like the other posters, I haven't noticed any interference with the screen with it sitting on top of the Tv. Magnetic shielding must be working, I guess.

Is there some cheapskate way I can do something about the slight gouse field my center channel is creating in the upper right corner of my TV?

I know my speakers are SUPPOSED to be shielded...

Is there some cheapskate way I can do something about the slight gouse field my center channel is creating in the upper right corner of my TV?

I know my speakers are SUPPOSED to be shielded...

Q:

I really can't think of any cheap way to do it. The only way would be to find a better-shielded center channel speaker or to invest in an audio/video rack where the center channel can sit on its own shelf.

I don't find the top of the 960 to be very stable for anything to sit on it and, although my center channel and left/right front speakers are shielded, I make sure they are at least 6" for the center channel and at least a foot away for the left/right channels.

Q:

I really can't think of any cheap way to do it. The only way would be to find a better-shielded center channel speaker or to invest in an audio/video rack where the center channel can sit on its own shelf.

This is probably going to happen before the year is out. [/QUOTE]

Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.

I put the CC570 back on top the 960, put Phantom in the DVD, selected some music scenes with lots of base and other good stuff, and cranked it up. My ears are still ringing! At a measured 108 db at my usual seat, the Paradigm didn't move at all. Even with the Servo 15 sub rattling the windows, the CC570 sat completely still. However...

As I guess you know, the studio series Paradigm's are not efficient speakers. They take a pretty hefty amp to drive to the absurd levels we all love. My Denon 5803 puts out 170 watts X 7 and was nearing fully driven to achieve the 108 db I used. (I stopped at 108 because I couldn't stand it any louder, was hand holding the SPL meter, and didn't want to go find my shooting earmuffs.) At these levels there is a pretty hefty current flow to the speakers, enough apparently to overcome the shielding. As a result, there was some magnetic interference visible on the screen, mostly top left. Minor, but it was there and repeatable.

At more realistic sound pressure levels (under 100 db) I never saw even the slightest flutter on the screen. But at levels as low as 104, the interference was clearly visible.

So my conclusion is that the CC570 will fit and stay stable on the 960 and, except at ear splitting volumes, will not interfere with the CRT. However, at extremely loud (ear damage?) levels, you might get some interference. As to whether you think it looks good on top of the Sony, you can judge for yourself. To me, the better solution would be to separate the two with some type of furniture/stand for a better look and no chance of magnetic interference.

So my conclusion is that the CC570 will fit and stay stable on the 960 and, except at ear splitting volumes, will not interfere with the CRT. However, at extremely loud (ear damage?) levels, you might get some interference. As to whether you think it looks good on top of the Sony, you can judge for yourself. To me, the better solution would be to separate the two with some type of furniture/stand for a better look and no chance of magnetic interference.

Thanks for testing this for me I greatly appreciate it.

Looks like I can sit it on top temporarily until I find a long term solution.

I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.

I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?

Thanks in advance

I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.

I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?

Thanks in advance

Newport:

Any chance your Tivo has component video outputs? Those would help to improve the PQ.

On the other hand, I've noticed that any signal other than 1080i/720p cable or 480p DVD doesn't look as good on the 960 as it would on a good 4:3 set. Any basic cable or digital cable channels on my set are so-so. This set was truly meant for HD cable or DVD watching only.

I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.

I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?

Thanks in advance


Try a composite instead of S cable. Should look better on that set.

bob

Try a composite instead of S cable. Should look better on that set.

bob

I think you mean "component video." COMPOSITE is actually a step DOWN from S-Video.

No stand-alone Tivos have component outputs. Only D* HD Tivo, some DVDRs, and the Replay sets have component outputs. I use a DVDR with component outs and I have to say the upconvert from S-video to component that the DVDR is almost night and day. The sat feed that I use is unwatchable with the S-video inputs on the XBR but the DVDR S-video upconvert to component makes it watchable and it sometimes recognized the widescreen flags.

I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.

I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?

Thanks in advance

Why not split the cable feed?

Fewer conversion steps (analog-to-digital/digital-to-analog, composite-to-"S"/ "S" to composite, etc.) is always best. My guess (since I don't have a TiVo) is that the TiVo is doing some conversions and signal processing, and thereby is introducing distortion. If you don't have to "loop through" the TiVo, then don't.

Mark

I searched this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer: What is the native resolution of the 34XBR960?

Correct, no component, I would have used that so S-Video was my best choice.

Issues with splitting feed is I have swith to use the Tivo and its features of TV pausing etc.

Thanks!

I didn't think "native resolution" was something that was associated with CRTs?

Wow... XBR960, and no HD to drive it?

Time for a bit of an overall supporting equpment and cable service upgrade, if you ask me?

You won't find HD Tivo from cable companies, but their HD DVR's do a pretty good job in general, especially the Motorola 6412 and Scientific Atlanta 8300. Then you'll be able to get HD to the XBR960, via component or HDMI-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI.

The XBR960 deserves to be fed HD. S-video SD is fair (not bad, but not fabulous), as I suspect composite SD would be (but can't speak firsthand). But it's in the HD world where this set shines and where you'll get your money's worth.

Plus, don't you want HD???

I searched this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer: What is the native resolution of the 34XBR960?
This set displays 1080i and 480p "natively."

Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?

I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.

What's the story on this, people?

Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?

I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.

What's the story on this, people?

Q:

When you had your set ISF calibrated, did you ask Chad if you could adjust the refresh rate on the 960? I would think it's not possible due to constraints on broadcast signals. Maybe I'm just not thinking correctly. Perhaps you can only adjust the refresh rate of the 960 externally, like through a PC, and not via an internal setting.

Q:

When you had your set ISF calibrated, did you ask Chad if you could adjust the refresh rate on the 960? I would think it's not possible due to constraints on broadcast signals. Maybe I'm just not thinking correctly. Perhaps you can only adjust the refresh rate of the 960 externally, like through a PC, and not via an internal setting.

Externally IS the only way it could be done, if at all. Chad and I fooled around with some settings and it looked like maybe I could fudge a few things.

I see a lot of people talking about using external processors and watching film based material at 72Hz instead of 60Hz and how much better that looks. Certainly from a PC application, a higher refresh rate is always easier and better on the eyes, so that makes sense.

Given this kind of display, I certainly wouldn't expect miracles by any means, but since I'm contemplating buying a processor for use with other devices that I own...I'm wondering if I could do that or not as well? It'd be a nice bonus. ;)

The real trick would be: Would the 960 force any incoming signal to go right back to 60Hz anyways? When I did this trick with my PC and cranked it to 85Hz, was I really seeing that, or was the 960 converting that 85Hz from the PC right back down to 60Hz? I did this over DVI-HDMI.

BTW, when's Chad coming to see you?

Externally IS the only way it could be done, if at all. Chad and I fooled around with some settings and it looked like maybe I could fudge a few things.

I see a lot of people talking about using external processors and watching film based material at 72Hz instead of 60Hz and how much better that looks. Certainly from a PC application, a higher refresh rate is always easier and better on the eyes, so that makes sense.

Given this kind of display, I certainly wouldn't expect miracles by any means, but since I'm contemplating buying a processor for use with other devices that I own...I'm wondering if I could do that or not as well? It'd be a nice bonus. ;)

The real trick would be: Would the 960 force any incoming signal to go right back to 60Hz anyways? When I did this trick with my PC and cranked it to 85Hz, was I really seeing that, or was the 960 converting that 85Hz from the PC right back down to 60Hz? I did this over DVI-HDMI.

BTW, when's Chad coming to see you?

Q:

Good luck on that external processor. I don't believe I'm at that level yet, given that an iScanHD+ runs about $1500 and the highly-rated Silicon Optix OptiScaler runs about $2000. In addition, it would mean adding more cables and make my current set-up a bit more convoluted than I'm comfortable with. I'd love to hear your results though. Maybe I'll be down that road in a couple years.

I've been e-mailing Chad back and forth. He has another client he is visiting in Boston, and has suggested the October/November timeframe. An exact date has not yet been set. I'm hoping to schedule a day when my roommate can be home, so lifting the TV off its stand to adjust some things will be that much easier.

Q:

Good luck on that external processor. I don't believe I'm at that level yet, given that an iScanHD+ runs about $1500 and the highly-rated Silicon Optix OptiScaler runs about $2000. In addition, it would mean adding more cables and make my current set-up a bit more convoluted than I'm comfortable with. I'd love to hear your results though. Maybe I'll be down that road in a couple years.

I'm exploring this as a bonus item, at best. I may feel more tantalized if I learn that I can take advantage of the "film at 72Hz" feature, in addition to benefits that my other gear would take.

I'm waiting to see what DVDO's next product looks like as well as keeping an eye on Lumagen and a few other odds and ends. This is not an earth shattering priority for me by any means. Call it more of an "academic curiosity."



I've been e-mailing Chad back and forth. He has another client he is visiting in Boston, and has suggested the October/November timeframe. An exact date has not yet been set. I'm hoping to schedule a day when my roommate can be home, so lifting the TV off its stand to adjust some things will be that much easier.

It'll work out! :)

Wow... XBR960, and no HD to drive it?

Time for a bit of an overall supporting equpment and cable service upgrade, if you ask me?

You won't find HD Tivo from cable companies, but their HD DVR's do a pretty good job in general, especially the Motorola 6412 and Scientific Atlanta 8300. Then you'll be able to get HD to the XBR960, via component or HDMI-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI.

The XBR960 deserves to be fed HD. S-video SD is fair (not bad, but not fabulous), as I suspect composite SD would be (but can't speak firsthand). But it's in the HD world where this set shines and where you'll get your money's worth.

Plus, don't you want HD???


Driving HD with OTA antenna, I have Adelphia, enough said!

Hi, Just ordered a 960 and it should arrive in a week (I already put together the matching stand).

It will replace a 32 inch 4x3 and I know the 16x9 screen will be larger than my current tv in the letterbox mode (which is equivalent to a 29 inch 16x9). I also will sit a foot closer to the 960 (about 7 1/2 feet instead of 8 1/2). While not a "big screen" set, compared to what I'm currently using will the 960's additional 17% screen size (and one foot less viewing distance) provide a large impact in size or would it be just a subtle change? It's hard to tell in stores. I know the 4x3 mode will be reduced to the equivalent of a 27" set, however, I plan to use one of the stretch modes so the effect will not look smaller.

Of course, I'm not worried about the impact of picture quality.

I'm very excited getting this set - already replaced my digital cable box with an HD box and have the HDMI monster cable. Too bad the Mets decided to go into a slight tailspin as I am getting ready to see them in HD!

Thanks for your thoughts about this subject.

Joe

Hi, Just ordered a 960 and it should arrive in a week (I already put together the matching stand).

It will replace a 32 inch 4x3 and I know the 16x9 screen will be larger than my current tv in the letterbox mode (which is equivalent to a 29 inch 16x9). I also will sit a foot closer to the 960 (about 7 1/2 feet instead of 8 1/2). While not a "big screen" set, compared to what I'm currently using will the 960's additional 17% screen size (and one foot less viewing distance) provide a large impact in size or would it be just a subtle change? It's hard to tell in stores. I know the 4x3 mode will be reduced to the equivalent of a 27" set, however, I plan to use one of the stretch modes so the effect will not look smaller.

Of course, I'm not worried about the impact of picture quality.

I'm very excited getting this set - already replaced my digital cable box with an HD box and have the HDMI monster cable. Too bad the Mets decided to go into a slight tailspin as I am getting ready to see them in HD!

Thanks for your thoughts about this subject.

Joe

Joseph:

Congratulations on your purchase! Even though it's not a "big screen" set, as you say, I believe the 960 provides the best picture quality across the board versus any other technology out there right now (e.g., LCD, plasma, DLP, rear projection, etc.)

I too was a bit worried when I got the set a year ago how 4:3 material would look on it. To be honest, I have noticed that analog cable channels and even some digital cable channels look worse on this set than your average 4:3 good-quality non-HDTV CRT (mostly analog cable though, which just looks bad).

Here in Boston, I have an HD cable box through Comcast and find myself watching the 16 HD channels we get much more than the couple hundred channels I get that are analog or digital. I will say the set has changed my viewing habits, as I tend to mostly watch HD or DVD material on it.

On the stretch mode you plan on using, I don't use it. Even though it gives the impression of 16:9, it throws everything out of proportion. I like to watch material in its original aspect ratio. Plus, I believe you'll get used to the black bars on the left and right, as I have.

Again, congrats on the purchase. Let us know how it works out.

Joseph:

Congratulations on your purchase! Even though it's not a "big screen" set, as you say, I believe the 960 provides the best picture quality across the board versus any other technology out there right now (e.g., LCD, plasma, DLP, rear projection, etc.)

I too was a bit worried when I got the set a year ago how 4:3 material would look on it. To be honest, I have noticed that analog cable channels and even some digital cable channels look worse on this set than your average 4:3 good-quality non-HDTV CRT (mostly analog cable though, which just looks bad).

Here in Boston, I have an HD cable box through Comcast and find myself watching the 16 HD channels we get much more than the couple hundred channels I get that are analog or digital. I will say the set has changed my viewing habits, as I tend to mostly watch HD or DVD material on it.

On the stretch mode you plan on using, I don't use it. Even though it gives the impression of 16:9, it throws everything out of proportion. I like to watch material in its original aspect ratio. Plus, I believe you'll get used to the black bars on the left and right, as I have.

Again, congrats on the purchase. Let us know how it works out.

Hi Tennberg,

I've heard some say analog transmissions don't look as good on the HD Digital sets compared to analog. Isn't the 960 supposed to upgrade all non-HD material? A friend of mine has the Toshiba 34 inch tube HDTV and I did notice a clearer picture just using the building's master antenna. Why he doesn't subscribe to digital and HD cable is beyond me. By the way, we're in the Bronx, but please don't boo us - we're Met fans!

I saw a side by side comparision of 4:3 and stretch mode and was surprised that the reproportion was so subtle - of course, its a matter of taste (we will let you what we eventually settle on). One thing we are concerned about using 4:3 is the possibility of burn in. Even though the chance is low, we don't want to take any risks.

We chose the smaller width of our living room (12 feet approximately) because the longer length is in line with a picture window. Taking into account the room size and that we would sit about 7-1/2 feet away from the set we assumed anything bigger than a 37 inch LCD would be too large. Are we correct to assume the 34 inch widescreen will be ample enough to provide a larger home theater effect compared to the letterbox in our 32 inch 4:3 which also is a foot further back?

Thanks always,
Joe

I did thesame, went from a Sony 4:3 32" to the 34xbr960. I also moved my couch up a foot to about 7-8'. SD is definitely noticeably smaller and looked poor at first, but after tweaking the set I got SD to look dramatically better, turn Sharpness down or even to 0, and brightness and light levels as low as possible.

I did thesame, went from a Sony 4:3 32" to the 34xbr960. I also moved my couch up a foot to about 7-8'. SD is definitely noticeably smaller and looked poor at first, but after tweaking the set I got SD to look dramatically better, turn Sharpness down or even to 0, and brightness and light levels as low as possible.


Agree with you 100% about low levels for brightness, sharpness, etc. I use the THX optimizer found on some DVD's as a reference. It has specific screens to adjust contrast, black level, color and sharpness for the monitor.

Hi Tennberg,

I've heard some say analog transmissions don't look as good on the HD Digital sets compared to analog. Isn't the 960 supposed to upgrade all non-HD material? A friend of mine has the Toshiba 34 inch tube HDTV and I did notice a clearer picture just using the building's master antenna. Why he doesn't subscribe to digital and HD cable is beyond me. By the way, we're in the Bronx, but please don't boo us - we're Met fans!

I saw a side by side comparision of 4:3 and stretch mode and was surprised that the reproportion was so subtle - of course, its a matter of taste (we will let you what we eventually settle on). One thing we are concerned about using 4:3 is the possibility of burn in. Even though the chance is low, we don't want to take any risks.

We chose the smaller width of our living room (12 feet approximately) because the longer length is in line with a picture window. Taking into account the room size and that we would sit about 7-1/2 feet away from the set we assumed anything bigger than a 37 inch LCD would be too large. Are we correct to assume the 34 inch widescreen will be ample enough to provide a larger home theater effect compared to the letterbox in our 32 inch 4:3 which also is a foot further back?

Thanks always,
Joe

Joe:

Glad to hear you're not a Yankees fan :-)

My 960 is connected directly to my Comcast/Motorola 6412 cable box via high-quality component video cables. The 6412 outputs all HD material at 1080i and is set to output any 4:3 material at 1080i as well, so the box does the scaling for that part. I didn't notice any improvement upscaling the 4:3 material, but it does make the side bars narrower and also makes them black (as opposed to the gray it was before).

As far as burn-in, as long as you don't have contrast and brightness set too high, you'll be fine. It's those people who think turning up brightness will make the picture "better" that suffer from burn-in.

Assuming you were watching 16:9 material as letterbox on your 32" 4:3, you will see a huge improvement watching it on a 34" 16:9. Even DVDs in the 2.35:1 format (with black bars at the top and bottom) will be bigger. I sit about 6-7 feet away from my 960, and have found that to be the best viewing distance. Any closer and you'd get a headache. Any further and you'd have to move out of the CRT realm into plasma, LCD, or rear projection.

I am having my 960 professionally ISF calibrated this Fall, so I am hoping to see huge improvements in both HD material and SD material like DVDs or cable.

It's a shame that the 960 will probably be one of the last CRTs produced by Sony. I would have loved to see them improve on the 960 (as they did going from the 910 to the 960). Now *that* set would be something to see! This set should last you long enough until a technology comes around that can trump CRT in all areas.

To all 960 owners:

What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?

I currently use this stand:

http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/avs-4201a.html

and am finding that the top shelf is just too narrow left to right for the set. Plus, the glass is sliding a bit due to the weight of the TV (very difficult to center the weight of the set exactly) and I'm afraid the set may come crashing down one day.

I have no interest at all in the Sony stand, as it only has one useless shelf. I would need a stand that can easily hold the 960, has a bit more room left to right, and has room for an average size center channel speaker, a pre-amp/processor, a DVD player, and a Comcast cable box. I am looking to spend around 500-600, and for it to have a max width of around 60". (The current stand is around 40"). I would also prefer something in a mix of dark metal and glass over something in wood or plastic.

Thanks for any suggestions!

What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?


Mine can easily carry my 960, and then some...!

http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp?item=256&deptcode1=503

Mine can easily carry my 960, and then some...!

http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp?item=256&deptcode1=503

pt:

Thanks for that link. Their stuff is very nice, plus that stand wouldn't require me having to clean glass shelves all the time.

I priced out a system with the top shelf and three bottom shelves (1 shelf for pre-amp and DVD player, one shelf for cable box and future expansion, and one shelf for center channel), and man was it expensive. Though, I guess you're paying for very high quality furniture that will support the 960 like nothing else.

I'm going to keep that in mind while I search for other possibilities. Hopefully, I'll get a good price for my current stand as it's very recent and in perfect condition. I'm also going to try and adjust the top glass shelf on my current stand this week to minimize any further slipping.

I am very happy with this budget stand from CC:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-TV-Stand-23541S-/sem/rpsm/oid/69535/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

It might not be the stand for you since it is only slightly larger than your current stand, but it is sturdy, the bottom 2 shelves are generous and it looks great with the 960. I originally only bought it as a temporary fix until I found something better, but it has worked out so well I think it will be my permanent stand. Good luck with your search.

Joe:

Glad to hear you're not a Yankees fan :-)

My 960 is connected directly to my Comcast/Motorola 6412 cable box via high-quality component video cables. The 6412 outputs all HD material at 1080i and is set to output any 4:3 material at 1080i as well, so the box does the scaling for that part. I didn't notice any improvement upscaling the 4:3 material, but it does make the side bars narrower and also makes them black (as opposed to the gray it was before).

As far as burn-in, as long as you don't have contrast and brightness set too high, you'll be fine. It's those people who think turning up brightness will make the picture "better" that suffer from burn-in.

Assuming you were watching 16:9 material as letterbox on your 32" 4:3, you will see a huge improvement watching it on a 34" 16:9. Even DVDs in the 2.35:1 format (with black bars at the top and bottom) will be bigger. I sit about 6-7 feet away from my 960, and have found that to be the best viewing distance. Any closer and you'd get a headache. Any further and you'd have to move out of the CRT realm into plasma, LCD, or rear projection.

I am having my 960 professionally ISF calibrated this Fall, so I am hoping to see huge improvements in both HD material and SD material like DVDs or cable.

It's a shame that the 960 will probably be one of the last CRTs produced by Sony. I would have loved to see them improve on the 960 (as they did going from the 910 to the 960). Now *that* set would be something to see! This set should last you long enough until a technology comes around that can trump CRT in all areas.

Hi again, Tennberg

Thanks for letting me know the picture size will look much bigger. Using a tape measure against our 4:3 didn't really allow us to evaluate the difference between a letterbox in a 4:3 32" set compared to the 960.

We will have many usages of the 960 inputs:

1) VIDEO 1 - On screen set-up menu from our Home Theater 6.1 receiver.

2) VIDEO 4 - VCR.

3) CABLE - We have a splitter so unscrambled channels can be seen in PIP.

4) VHF/UHF - For our lobby/laundry room channels which are on the building's master antenna (also for PIP).

5) VIDEO 5 - For DVD

6) VIDEO 6 - To allow my wife to operate the set without use of the receiver for audio - see 7).

7) VIDEO 7 - DVI output from our box connected to HDMI cable converter for our main HDTV viewing. The optical audio output goes directly into our 6.1 receiver, hence the need for VIDEO 4 for my spouse when I'm not home (she's butterfingers with using audio equipment).

See any problems with this I'm not aware of?

Hope making all the screen adjustments necessary for the best picture will be as simple (I have a bad habit of always trying to see if I can make the picture better) LOL.

Will let you know how things go once it's set-up. Thanks for all your advice in advance of our delivery.

Best,
Joe

Hi again, Tennberg

Thanks for letting me know the picture size will look much bigger. Using a tape measure against our 4:3 didn't really allow us to evaluate the difference between a letterbox in a 4:3 32" set compared to the 960.

We will have many usages of the 960 inputs:

1) VIDEO 1 - On screen set-up menu from our Home Theater 6.1 receiver.

2) VIDEO 4 - VCR.

3) CABLE - We have a splitter so unscrambled channels can be seen in PIP.

4) VHF/UHF - For our lobby/laundry room channels which are on the building's master antenna (also for PIP).

5) VIDEO 5 - For DVD

6) VIDEO 6 - To allow my wife to operate the set without use of the receiver for audio - see 7).

7) VIDEO 7 - DVI output from our box connected to HDMI cable converter for our main HDTV viewing. The optical audio output goes directly into our 6.1 receiver, hence the need for VIDEO 4 for my spouse when I'm not home (she's butterfingers with using audio equipment).

See any problems with this I'm not aware of?

Hope making all the screen adjustments necessary for the best picture will be as simple (I have a bad habit of always trying to see if I can make the picture better) LOL.

Will let you know how things go once it's set-up. Thanks for all your advice in advance of our delivery.

Best,
Joe

Hey Joe,

You're definitely putting all the inputs to use!

On my setup, I use the front video input for any on-screen menus I need to use, e.g. my pre-amp, but use a temporary cable and only plug it in when I need to change something. All other times, that door stays closed.

I don't split my incoming cable signal as I've had problems with the wiring in the building in the past, and had to have Comcast and TriWire come out to rewire much of it. I'm no longer getting weak signals or pixelation and don't want to mess with it any further.

My building doesn't have any security cameras, so that's not used.

I also no longer use my VCR, so it's not plugged in. I have about 12 VHS tapes still (in comparison to about 200 DVDs), but will eventually be buying the DVD equivalents for those tapes. In the meantime, there's no need to watch them, so the VCR sits in the closet.

I only use Video 5 and Video 6 (component inputs). Video 5 is used for my Comcast HD DVR cable box and Video 6 is for my Denon DVD player. I've hear mixed reviews about using HDMI on this "analog" set, so I don't bother with it.

It sounds like you're going to have a lot of wires in the back. I'd make sure you have enough room to reach around the back and work with any cables should a problem arise.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

P.S. - I found this calculator that will let you compare a 4:3 TV to a 16:9 TV. It will show you how much larger or smaller 4:3 material, 1.85:1 material, and even 2.35:1 material will be on each set. Enjoy!

http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi

[QUOTE=tennberg]Hey Joe,

You're definitely putting all the inputs to use!

On my setup, I use the front video input for any on-screen menus I need to use, e.g. my pre-amp, but use a temporary cable and only plug it in when I need to change something. All other times, that door stays closed.

I don't split my incoming cable signal as I've had problems with the wiring in the building in the past, and had to have Comcast and TriWire come out to rewire much of it. I'm no longer getting weak signals or pixelation and don't want to mess with it any further.

My building doesn't have any security cameras, so that's not used.

I also no longer use my VCR, so it's not plugged in. I have about 12 VHS tapes still (in comparison to about 200 DVDs), but will eventually be buying the DVD equivalents for those tapes. In the meantime, there's no need to watch them, so the VCR sits in the closet.

I only use Video 5 and Video 6 (component inputs). Video 5 is used for my Comcast HD DVR cable box and Video 6 is for my Denon DVD player. I've hear mixed reviews about using HDMI on this "analog" set, so I don't bother with it.

It sounds like you're going to have a lot of wires in the back. I'd make sure you have enough room to reach around the back and work with any cables should a problem arise.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

P.S. - I found this calculator that will let you compare a 4:3 TV to a 16:9 TV. It will show you how much larger or smaller 4:3 material, 1.85:1 material, and even 2.35:1 material will be on each set. Enjoy!



Hi again, Tennberg,

Thanks for sending the link for the comparision ratios.

When I called my cable company about using a splitter I was told to get a special type which compensated for signal loss. It looks the same as an ordinary splitter, runs about $10 at your local radio shack and does the trick. Use it for those unscrambled stations to get more use of your PIP.

Yup, have the room for the wires. Also have two large unused pieces of beige shelving which will be put behind the sony stand to hide the unsightly barage of wires.

Catch you soon,
Joe

To all 960 owners:

What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?

I currently use this stand:

http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/avs-4201a.html



Mine is on this BDI stand.

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html

I am very happy with this budget stand from CC:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Line-Designs-TV-Stand-23541S-/sem/rpsm/oid/69535/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

It might not be the stand for you since it is only slightly larger than your current stand, but it is sturdy, the bottom 2 shelves are generous and it looks great with the 960. I originally only bought it as a temporary fix until I found something better, but it has worked out so well I think it will be my permanent stand. Good luck with your search.

I've got the same stand for my 34XS955. I'm able to put 2 components side-by-side on the bottom shelf, and 2 plus my large HK center channel speaker on the upper shelf... looks good, too.

Bit OT:

A regional electronics store chain is having their Private Sale this weekend to coincide with Massachusetts' tax-free weekend. This store is offering a Sony 37" plasma ( KDE-37XS955) for $2500, nearly $2000 off the original price.

Although it's tempting (lighter set to move if something needs to be adjusted, less strain on stand, 3" more viewing area), I do know that plasmas still have their own set of problems which, across the board, put them below the 960. Oh well :-)

If you want to spend a bit more money for a really excellent equipment rack, custom designed by you if you want, try Billy Bags Design:

Billy Bags Design equipment racks (http://www.billybags.com/index2.html)

Explore the site, looking at various products, finishes, construction details, available surfaces and materials, etc. Build-to-spec, either pre-designed by them or from your own special design.

I had them custom-build me two back in 1993, one horizontal (for my 35" Mits at the time, then later a Sampo 34" weighing 195 pounds, and now holding my 200 pound Sony 34XBR960) and related video/audio equipment and which stands on six legs (to support the weight of the HDTV and because it was a horizontal low-boy design), and one vertical to hold my audio/stereo equipment and which stands on four legs. They used to be side-by-side in my living room but now they're in two separate rooms.

Each one was custom built to my specs, including the number and placement of interior shelves as well as the color of the 1" cold-rolled steel tubing (arc welded from the inside of the rack and with "wrinkle black" finish) and the material of the faux granite top. I didn't need a swivel top on my horizontal TV table/rack, but I could have had that as well if I'd wanted it.

I had planned out exactly what components I wanted to place on the shelves (seven in the video rack, eight in the audio rack) and knew exactly the dimensions of each one. I drew my own sketches (actually on my computer) with horizontal shelf/pipe and vertical separator/pipe placement and size to accommodate my precise intended equipment placement, and forwarded it to them. The drawings gave measurement details of the height and width of each opening as well as height off of the floor, allowing for 1" pipes/shelves as separators. They built from my drawings.

BOTH UNITS WERE DELIVERED PERFECTLY BUILT TO MY SPECIFICATIONS!!

I AM STILL USING BOTH OF THEM TODAY! DON'T KNOW WHAT I'D DO WITHOUT THEM.

Both units are finished with point-cone sound insulation feet that screw into the bottom of the legs and can be used to adjust for true horizontal of the table-top. You can also add tube-flex kits to hide wiring.

Billy Bags Design is a very well known audio/video and PC equipment rack builder. They have a number of off-the-shelf products, but will build to your personal spec for little or no additional cost (but get a price quote when you discuss such an order with them, and then get a final price when you provide them the detailed specs).

Not the cheapest, but perhaps the best.

i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture

thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry

i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture

thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry

Hey accord:

I've never used an Xbox, but you may want to go through its settings to make sure it's set for a 16:9 TV and NTSC (if those settings are on an Xbox).

I would then check to make sure you have the correct colors of each end of the component cable plugged into the corresponding correct color.

Now, is this fuzzy/grainy picture on all DVDs? If a movie was recorded on film, you will see graininess, as film is naturally grainy. If it's on all DVDs, it could be the Xbox or maybe even something is wrong with the component cables.

Hey accord:

I've never used an Xbox, but you may want to go through its settings to make sure it's set for a 16:9 TV and NTSC (if those settings are on an Xbox).

I would then check to make sure you have the correct colors of each end of the component cable plugged into the corresponding correct color.

Now, is this fuzzy/grainy picture on all DVDs? If a movie was recorded on film, you will see graininess, as film is naturally grainy. If it's on all DVDs, it could be the Xbox or maybe even something is wrong with the component cables.

i set the xbox to 1080i/16x9/ntsc and the all colors are in the correct spots. the first movie i watched was saving private ryan, which really isn't a good movie to be judging that with, but i threw matrix revolutions in and its still pretty blocky/grainy. although when i play the incredibles its pretty clear. maybe i should test a few more movies first before deciding if its the tv or the dvd's :p

oh well..thanks for the help

eh..now that i watch the incredibles a bit more, it seems grainy as well. hmm

i set the xbox to 1080i/16x9/ntsc and the all colors are in the correct spots. the first movie i watched was saving private ryan, which really isn't a good movie to be judging that with, but i threw matrix revolutions in and its still pretty blocky/grainy. although when i play the incredibles its pretty clear. maybe i should test a few more movies first before deciding if its the tv or the dvd's :p

oh well..thanks for the help

eh..now that i watch the incredibles a bit more, it seems grainy as well. hmm

I'm not sure how the Xbox measures up as a DVD player against stand-alone DVD players. That might be part of the issue?

Is it possible for you to borrow a friend's DVD player to see if it might be the Xbox? Does the Xbox have any software/firmware updates that might affect DVD viewing?

I'm not sure how the Xbox measures up as a DVD player against stand-alone DVD players. That might be part of the issue?

Is it possible for you to borrow a friend's DVD player to see if it might be the Xbox? Does the Xbox have any software/firmware updates that might affect DVD viewing?

i could try another dvd player yes, but now that i think of it, could the problem be that i haven't touched any of the settings. the tv is stock from the factory, is there stuff i should change before messing with another dvd player?

i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture

thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry

Hi Accord,

You didn't mention if you played DVDs with your xbox connected to another television. If the fuzziness appears on the other set, then you know it's not the 960.

While not a technician my hunch is xbox supports DVDs but because the laser is specifically geared for game discs it doesn't incorporate all of the technology required to play DVDs as well as on a DVD player. This could cause a decrease in quality similar to those of cds in DVD players. My brother and I notice audio cds sound fuller in actual cd players compared to those for DVD. Perhaps the same holds true for video game consoles; these will support DVD software but with less quality than units built specifically for DVD.

Hope it all works out,
Joe

Hi Accord,

You didn't mention if you played DVDs with your xbox connected to another television. If the fuzziness appears on the other set, then you know it's not the 960.

While not a technician my hunch is xbox supports DVDs but because the laser is specifically geared for game discs it doesn't incorporate all of the technology required to play DVDs as well as on a DVD player. This could cause a decrease in quality similar to those of cds in DVD players. My brother and I notice audio cds sound fuller in actual cd players compared to those for DVD. Perhaps the same holds true for video game consoles; these will support DVD software but with less quality than units built specifically for DVD.

Hope it all works out,
Joe


If the TV is stock and you never changed ANY settings, maybe the brightness and contrast are set too high (even sharpness). Set the input for the Xbox to "Monitor" and "Pro" (through the menu settings), then maybe pick up a calibration DVD (like Digital Video Essentials) to calibrate your DVD input.

I agree with Joe. Not to knock the Xbox, but it's not targeted as a DVD player. Before the 960, I had a Sony 4:3 curved tube CRT set with a Denon DVD-910 DVD player. Everything worked well, the picture was great, etc. etc. etc. I was using S-video at the time since that set (which I had had for several years didn't have any better inputs). Once I bought the 960, I upgraded to component cables and hooked up the DVD-910 and turned on progressive scan. Boy, was I shocked. THe picture was wavy and jittery. Turning off progressive scan made the problem go away. Apparently, there was a problem with my exact DVD player and TV when watching progressive scan material over component cables. Go figure.

Anyway, I was able to trade in the DVD player at the place I bought it for a credit towards a Denon DVD-2910. No more jitters, even better picture, plus I get the option of using SACD/DVD-Audio down the road. I'm not sure how much you'd consider spending on a standalone DVD player (The 2910 runs between $650-700). However, I watch a LOT of DVDs and consider it worth the cost to get a great picture.

As I've mentioned before this TV needs all settings turned way DOWN, esp Sharpness to 0 or close to it, also brightness and picture settings down, down. My image improved dramatically as I tweaked it over the first few weeks. Also it takes a month or more to break in so lower settings are better for the tube to break it in IMO.

As I've mentioned before this TV needs all settings turned way DOWN, esp Sharpness to 0 or close to it, also brightness and picture settings down, down. My image improved dramatically as I tweaked it over the first few weeks. Also it takes a month or more to break in so lower settings are better for the tube to break it in IMO.

is there a general range that most people set all their stuff to? i've never really known which settings to put where, so to know for sure what the "correct" settings were would be nice

and thanks for the help so far you guys, you've been great :)

is there a general range that most people set all their stuff to? i've never really known which settings to put where, so to know for sure what the "correct" settings were would be nice

and thanks for the help so far you guys, you've been great :)

Always: Pro and Monitor settings.

Bright and Contrast: 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value.

Probably want to go into the high 30's or so, low 40's, depending on the room light you're dealing with.

Sharpness: Around 20 or so.

Color, Hue: Dead center values. (31 color, 0 Hue.)

Color temp: Neutral

VM: Low.

Always: Pro and Monitor settings.

Bright and Contrast: 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value.

Probably want to go into the high 30's or so, low 40's, depending on the room light you're dealing with.

Sharpness: Around 20 or so.

Color, Hue: Dead center values. (31 color, 0 Hue.)

Color temp: Neutral

VM: Low.

Q:

I thought VM should be disabled for the best possible picture. When Chad calibrated your set, didn't he disable VM? This other ISF guy I had spoken to a while back said VM should be off.

Is there a way to display just the time in the lower right without the input in the upper left?

yeeeeeaaaahhh!!!!!!!!!

YAY! :D Nice recovery!

THANKS!

Now back to our regularly scheduled questioning.

Can we display just the time on our sets?

Q:

I thought VM should be disabled for the best possible picture. When Chad calibrated your set, didn't he disable VM? This other ISF guy I had spoken to a while back said VM should be off.

Yes that is correct, VSM should be disabled completely for better PQ and a much sharper picture with it off, trust me on this!

VSM has no purpose for high quality images.With it off you will start to notice details that were not visible before, and your PQ overall will be much clearer and crisp without the artificial sharpening of edges which VSM affects,it's best left completely off.

Yes that is correct, VSM should be disabled completely for better PQ and a much sharper picture with it off, trust me on this!

VSM has no purpose for high quality images.With it off you will start to notice details that were not visible before, and your PQ overall will be much clearer and crisp without the artificial sharpening of edges which VSM affects,it's best left completely off.

This is all true.

I was just trying to throw that guy a pre-ISF ceiling value. More often than not, definitely VM off.

Is the HDMI port on the back of the 960 HDCP-compliant?

Couple things related to this:

1. It seems odd there's no HDMI updates for the 960. My DVD player, a Denon-2910, was purchased about 2 months after I purchased the 960, and the 2910 has had several firmware releases since then, some of which were HDMI-related (one upgraded it to HDMI 1.1, the other improved performance, etc). Going to Sony's website shows no updates at all for the 960. It just seems odd for such a technically complex set.

2. It seems like when HD-DVD or Blu-Ray comes out, there will be no watching full-res high-def DVDs over component video. It will all be down-rezed to 480p. This makes that port that much more important.

Is the HDMI port on the back of the 960 HDCP-compliant?

Of course!



Couple things related to this:

1. It seems odd there's no HDMI updates for the 960. My DVD player, a Denon-2910, was purchased about 2 months after I purchased the 960, and the 2910 has had several firmware releases since then, some of which were HDMI-related (one upgraded it to HDMI 1.1, the other improved performance, etc). Going to Sony's website shows no updates at all for the 960. It just seems odd for such a technically complex set.

Your information is better than mine.

What kind of...improvements are you talking about and looking for?





2. It seems like when HD-DVD or Blu-Ray comes out, there will be no watching full-res high-def DVDs over component video. It will all be down-rezed to 480p. This makes that port that much more important.

Correct. HD over analog is basically dead, whether we like it or not. We have a fairly healthy debate about this in the DVD forum. Just hit the search and punch in either HDCP or HDMI and you'll find a rather healthy thread about HD-dVD and HDCP compliance.

We all knew this was coming. You want HD, you have to go digital and you have to go HDCP. When the axe got put down on component upscaling, that was the writing on the wall.

We got our KD 34XBR960 around 6:30 PM last night. The picture quality on HDTV and DVD is outstanding. The digital and analog signals are very good but one gets spoiled with the quality of HD.

Thanks to everyone (especially Tennberg) for the information before it came. Yes, a 34 inch widescreen is more than big enough. Watched the Yankee game (sorry Tenn) and thought we were right in the Stadium.

On the downside, Sony sending us a new remote control. Was unable to navigate with the joy stick and after an hour and frustration worried if something was broken we realized we could do the video adjustments from the set itself (not as convenient, and of course, one should be away from the set when making them).

For some silly reason I wanted both component and HDMI hooked up for HD cable. Of course, that made the box go on and off quite often and I was told by the cable company that was a no-no. So it's just HDMI. Also have cable box hooked up to video 1 (s video) so 4x3 shows can be stretched out better (zoom for the analog pictures via HDMI is limited).

Took me a while to realize it takes about ten seconds for the HDTV to lock in the signal from the box.

Now, after a day of wiring and re-wiring, cables being pulled out, etc., I can sit back, relax and watch the show.

Best always,
Joe

Enjoy! :)

Follow up with our new toy.

Took a while to understand settings can be made individually for each video mode (Vivid, Progressive, etc.) so memory was working OK.

Use the MOVIE mode for HD, DVD, VCR and standard cable but was not quite satisfied with the picture on DVD. Was moving back and forth until deciding to go back to the same settings as per HDTV (customizing advanced video detail and blend not available on HD) - then refining it using the contrast/brightness/sharpness/color controls on the DVD player with a THX video optomizer as reference. Now DVD's coming in fine (proper black level, no color saturation, picture balance and sharpness set not too strong to create halos but not soft to loose detail.

Then put on my favorite James Bond films, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" to see how much improvement from my old set and wow! Seen the movie so many times but never like this! The FIRST occasion we ever saw facial hair on male actors (or in "Moonraker" Bond's fingernails polished)!

Analog and digital stations are improved watching through the HDMI feed. Had mom over and watched the Yankees and golf and never seeing HD before she was floored how vivid and sharp the PGA was. It made watching golf on TV much more enjoyable than ever before.

We know from other posts how happy everyone is with this set. As long as the new remote control we're getting works and the set stays healthy, add us to the list.

Best,
Joe

Follow up with our new toy.

Took a while to understand settings can be made individually for each video mode (Vivid, Progressive, etc.) so memory was working OK.

Use the MOVIE mode for HD, DVD, VCR and standard cable but was not quite satisfied with the picture on DVD. Was moving back and forth until deciding to go back to the same settings as per HDTV (customizing advanced video detail and blend not available on HD) - then refining it using the contrast/brightness/sharpness/color controls on the DVD player with a THX video optomizer as reference. Now DVD's coming in fine (proper black level, no color saturation, picture balance and sharpness set not too strong to create halos but not soft to loose detail.

Then put on my favorite James Bond films, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" to see how much improvement from my old set and wow! Seen the movie so many times but never like this! The FIRST occasion we ever saw facial hair on male actors (or in "Moonraker" Bond's fingernails polished)!

Analog and digital stations are improved watching through the HDMI feed. Had mom over and watched the Yankees and golf and never seeing HD before she was floored how vivid and sharp the PGA was. It made watching golf on TV much more enjoyable than ever before.

We know from other posts how happy everyone is with this set. As long as the new remote control we're getting works and the set stays healthy, add us to the list.

Best,
Joe

Joe:

Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?

As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.



To everyone:

Do you know what kind of video DAC the 960 uses? I'd like to get some information on it if possible.

Joe:

Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?

As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.



To everyone:

Do you know what kind of video DAC the 960 uses? I'd like to get some information on it if possible.

Good question. I'm still trying to figure out what the story is on refresh rates with this set as well. Does it take everything and FORCE it to go at 60Hz no matter what, or does it actually allow up to 85Hz like I was let to believe when I connected my PC via DVI/HDMI cable?

I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.

Thanks in advance

I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.

Thanks in advance

The DVD wasn't ANAMORHPIC widescreen. I had The Wild Bunch do that on me as well. I threw it to zoom and all was well. You'll run into this with older DVD's on occasion.

Make sure your DVD player is set to 16:9, just to double check.

I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.

Thanks in advance

Newport:

Make sure on your DVD player that you have it set to a widescreen TV (16:9) and NTSC.

On the 960, I have it set to not stretch anything that's 4:3 and to present 16:9 material as 16:9. This is set in the on-screen menu where there's options like Full, Horizontal Zoom, etc.

How wide are the bars on the top and bottom when you watch this DVD? Since the 960 is 1.78:1 and the Sideways DVD is 1.85:1, you may see very thin bars at the top and bottom due to 1.85:1 being wider than your set and it compensating for that.

Also are there bars on the left and right? If there are, that means your DVD player is not set up correctly for your 16:9 TV. You'll need to tell the DVD player you have a 16:9 TV.

The side bars are about the same size as the 4:3 broadcast, so that makes sense with what you said. I will check the unit set up as it was used on my old Mitsu 4:3 previously. I assumed (DUHH) that the unit would know it was connected to a 16:9 set. MY MISTAKE

THANKS!

[QUOTE=tennberg]Joe:

Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?

As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.


Hi Tenn,

Do not have a progressive scan DVD player so for DVDs we have the 960 set to movie (picture mode), medium (clear edge), cinemotion (DRC) and default (color axis). Is it better to use interlaced in DRC?

Joe

The side bars are about the same size as the 4:3 broadcast, so that makes sense with what you said. I will check the unit set up as it was used on my old Mitsu 4:3 previously. I assumed (DUHH) that the unit would know it was connected to a 16:9 set. MY MISTAKE

THANKS!

You give technology too much credit! :-)

Hopefully, that will fix everything and you'll be able to take full advantage of the 960.

Everyone else, do you notice any gaps between the two side slim light-silver side pieces on the front and the dark-gray pieces that contain the speakers? I was viewing my TV from a different angle tonight and noticed it. The gap on the right side is about 1mm wider than the gap on the left side. Is this common, or is my set falling apart? hehe

Wasup guys. I plan on upgrading to the 34XBR 960 from my 36XBR 800 because of the xbox 360 and the PS3 and im tired of those huge black bars on the top and bottom of the screen when playing my DVD movies.I was wondering if Sony is coming out with a new model after the 960.I noticed the price has went down on this set everywhere.Thanks.

Anyone know?help lol

Wasup guys. I plan on upgrading to the 34XBR 960 from my 36XBR 800 because of the xbox 360 and the PS3 and im tired of those huge black bars on the top and bottom of the screen when playing my DVD movies.I was wondering if Sony is coming out with a new model after the 960.I noticed the price has went down on this set everywhere.Thanks.

vid:

From what I understand, the 2004 CRT models were carried over into 2005, either with 1-2 subtractions or 1-2 additions. It may even not have been touched at all. Can someone confirm?

This is just a guess, but currently, the XBR960 is Sony's top-of-the-line direct-view HDTV CRT. I don't see Sony releaseing a model like the KD-34XBR980 or anything like that. Sony was pushing its other non-CRT options hard, and that got them into a lof of financial trouble when that technology plummeted in price.

I think the 960 is one of the last, if not THE last, direct-view CRTs we will see from Sony. I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.

vid:

From what I understand, the 2004 CRT models were carried over into 2005, either with 1-2 subtractions or 1-2 additions. It may even not have been touched at all. Can someone confirm?

This is just a guess, but currently, the XBR960 is Sony's top-of-the-line direct-view HDTV CRT. I don't see Sony releaseing a model like the KD-34XBR980 or anything like that. Sony was pushing its other non-CRT options hard, and that got them into a lof of financial trouble when that technology plummeted in price.

I think the 960 is one of the last, if not THE last, direct-view CRTs we will see from Sony. I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.

Hi Tenn,

If Sony was to come out with a new 34 inch xbr direct view set what could they do to improve upon the technology of the 960 other than cosmetic changes or an additional input? Since they were the only to offer a 40" direct-view 4x3 I can see them come out with a KD37XBR960 with a 37" 16X9 screen (RCA/Thompson did a few years ago but it was nowhere near the quality of the Sony and broke down easily).

Even at it's original $2.2 K price tag, the picture quality beat any plasma or LCD, whose big-screen sets went for at least $1,000 more. Those looking for not more than a 42" LCD or plasma might consider 5" less for a top of the line HDTV tube set.

Not being a member of Sony's marketing team, or having inside information, these are only guesses.

Joe

I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.


That would do :)

Maybe they could add 1080p support.That could make it perfect.

Hi Tenn,

If Sony was to come out with a new 34 inch xbr direct view set what could they do to improve upon the technology of the 960 other than cosmetic changes or an additional input? Since they were the only to offer a 40" direct-view 4x3 I can see them come out with a KD37XBR960 with a 37" 16X9 screen (RCA/Thompson did a few years ago but it was nowhere near the quality of the Sony and broke down easily).

Even at it's original $2.2 K price tag, the picture quality beat any plasma or LCD, whose big-screen sets went for at least $1,000 more. Those looking for not more than a 42" LCD or plasma might consider 5" less for a top of the line HDTV tube set.

Not being a member of Sony's marketing team, or having inside information, these are only guesses.

Joe

Joe,

The largest 16:9 direct-view CRT I've seen is Sony's KV-HR36M91, which is only availble in the Middle East and Asia Pacific. It is a 36" 16:9 CRT set with Wega engine, though it is non-XBR. Interestingly enough, it weighs the same as the KD-34XBR960, which is 2" smaller - 194 lbs.

http://www.sony-mea.com/product_details.asp?InpProdId=5021

This is just a guess: It is easier to make a 40" 4:3 tube than it is a 40" 16:9 tube. This is why you don't see 16:9 CRTs larger than 36". Plus, a 16:9 TV that large would probably weigh close to 300 pounds or more, making it nearly impractical.

If Sony were to include a follow-up model to the 34XBR960, which I highly doubt, the only improvements I could see are adding a DVI input and additional HDMI input and possibly adjusting the design a bit for better handling when moving or lifting.

I do think this is the last, great CRT we will see from Sony (or anyone for that matter). I am just hoping that in 5-7 years' time, a technology will have emerged that equals (or beats) CRT across the board.

I do think this is the last, great CRT we will see from Sony (or anyone for that matter). I am just hoping that in 5-7 years' time, a technology will have emerged that equals (or beats) CRT across the board.

Hi Tenn,

We might be a little bit selfish but hope by that time a technology would not have emerged that equals or beats CRT - we like knowing that for once we have a top of the line piece of equipment (except, of course, those priced for the rich and famous, LOL). People at the office look up to me now with a new-found respect!

- Joe

Well, I guess one is never too old to find out how dumb they can be!

Got a replacement remote today and again could not get the toggle button to operate properly. Was very depressed and resigned to the fact that the set would need to be serviced until..... by accident I discovered one does not press the sides of the button but pushes them instead! Am sure the original remote worked just as well and therefore would not have needed to go back and forth to make adjustments. Now that I'm able make adjustments from my viewing position I was able to make more precise settings - especially in the advanced video clarity and detail selection.

My only excuse is that toggle buttons on my other devices are all touch sensitive.

Has anyone else made this same mistake at first?

Anybody seeing me right now would swear my facial tone is in the "default" position to emphasize red!

Hi Tenn,

We might be a little bit selfish but hope by that time a technology would not have emerged that equals or beats CRT - we like knowing that for once we have a top of the line piece of equipment (except, of course, those priced for the rich and famous, LOL). People at the office look up to me now with a new-found respect!

- Joe

Hey Joe,

Like any technology, CRT has its strengths, but it also has its drawbacks. I can think of three where others have CRT beat:

1. Screen size. Sure CRT beats others in terms of clarity and picture quality, but imagine that picture quality at 50", 60", or even larger. Picture watching the action scene from your favorite movie at that size. *wipes drool from mouth* This area goes to LCD, plasma, and projectors.

2. Geometry. The bane of CRT's existence has usually been screen geometry. Since you're dealing with magnets and electrons, obviously there are way too many factors involved in trying to get a perfectly square image. Sure, you can open up your CRT and move magnets around, voiding the warranty in the process. Will you ever get the image 100% corrected? Probably not. Again, praise to LCD and plasma.

3. Weight. The KD-34XBR960 weighs 194 lbs. The KD-40XBR800 weighed over 300 lbs. Sure, some may say once you place the TV, you're never going to need to move it. But what if you move to another apartment? Decide to redecorate? Want to clean under the set? Need to adjust some wires in the back easily? Unless you have several roommates who work out constantly, that CRT ain't going anywhere. Want to move that 50" plasma? Sure, easily done, it only weights 100 lbs.

As I've mentioned before, when taking into account all factors, CRT is the best technology. Could it be better? Absolutely. Give me a technology that has CRT's picture quality, LCD's weight, and plasma's screen size, and I'd be the happiest man alive. Do I think there will ever be such a technology? Absolutely. Will it be within 5 years? Probably not. Some may say you can get this level with the latest Runco projector and a 100" screen, but honestly, how many of us can drop $100K or more on that piece and have the room to put it in?

Since most of you say sony wont make a new model,i hope they dont discontinue the 960.They wouldnt do that would they?I sure hope not.This set still has great value.

I had my 960 calibrated a month ago and it keeps getting better. Best Buy is selling most of their superbit titles for $9.99 so I added a few more to my collection.

Quick side note on my opinion of superbit titles. If a movie doesn't have a lot of color in it superbit doesn't do much for it. Titles like Men In Black, Bad Boys, Desperado don't benefit much from the superbit process. However titles like Spiderman 1 and 2, Fifth Element, Underworld...incredible.

I had Spider Man 1 and 2 in superbit prior to calibration, picked up Fifth Element and Underworld from BB post calibration.

The level of detail that I can see in these movies post calibration is fantastic. For the Spiderman titles I find may self saying, "where did that come from, it wasn't there before". I find myself second guessing was I really paying attention when I watched this before or is the picture that much more detailed.

I keep landing on the picture being that much more detailed.

If you have the money get the set calibrated.

I had my 960 calibrated a month ago and it keeps getting better. Best Buy is selling most of their superbit titles for $9.99 so I added a few more to my collection.

Quick side note on my opinion of superbit titles. If a movie doesn't have a lot of color in it superbit doesn't do much for it. Titles like Men In Black, Bad Boys, Desperado don't benefit much from the superbit process. However titles like Spiderman 1 and 2, Fifth Element, Underworld...incredible.

I had Spider Man 1 and 2 in superbit prior to calibration, picked up Fifth Element and Underworld from BB post calibration.

The level of detail that I can see in these movies post calibration is fantastic. For the Spiderman titles I find may self saying, "where did that come from, it wasn't there before". I find myself second guessing was I really paying attention when I watched this before or is the picture that much more detailed.

I keep landing on the picture being that much more detailed.

If you have the money get the set calibrated.


Absolutely! 100 percent agreed!