Where to buy lamp? My set is starting to look a little dim and I will probably be looking for a new lamp soon. Do I get it from Samsung, or are there other, cheaper sources?

You can buy it directly from Samsung if you would like. Their prices are competitive with other sources out there and are sometimes even less expensive. There is another place that I found www.deadlamp.com that seems pretty good as well. They include overnight shipping in their price. I have never done any business with them as of yet so I cannot comment on their reliability.

Recently, my digital board stoped recognizing 720p through the HDMI input. Now that the tech has replaced it, my picture quality is horrid. I've tried playing with almost every user setting I can find, and used DVE to adjust the settings.

The problems seems to be with shadowing. Bright pictures look just fine. But in a foggy scene, or during a cloudy night, etc. the different levels of shadowing almost seem to be a brownish-gray color and full of "static" looking artifacts. It's in every input I've tried, in every resolution, and even affects Blu-ray movies and 360/PS3 video games.

Also, after the new board was installed I had a new option on my PC input that allowed me to adjust additional settings (alignment and zoom) from the "Wide PC" setting in picture size. This was not a feature I had before the new board was installed.

The tech will be coming back in a week and a half to look at the TV, but I was wondering if there were options I could try in the mean time or things to ask the tech when he gets back.

EDIT:

It turned out that not only did I need a new digital board, but my light engine needed to be replaced as well. 2nd time in just under 4 years of ownership that we've had to replace the light engine. It's all under our extended warranty, though.

Hi Everyone.

I have a HLP5063W and a strange thing is starting to happen to my source list, specifically with my HDMI and Component inputs. I first had my HD STB connected via HDMI and it was working perfectly. While trying to organize the cords, I unplugged the HDMI cable. After plugging it back it, I discovered that it was now unavailable in the source list (greyed out). After doing some research, I discovered the HDMI handshake issue and assumed that was the problem. So as a backup, I switched over to Component. It was working fine for about 3 months and today I got a message to check the input signal. I went to the source list and now the Component is now unavailable in the source list.

Any suggestions? Is there some sort of master reset for inputs? Many thanks for any thoughts.

Douglas

Given the original TV expense I am trying to get all I can out of my Sammy DLP.
So far I've replaced the LE (under warranty) and just recently a Lamp and soon expect the ballast and color wheel to be next.

One noticeable is the DMD seems off center where across the top there is a black band with a saw tooth edge. Service Menu vert adjustment is moot since this is a physical light path obstruction.

I purchased the Samsung service manual and am surprised to find no instructions on how to position the DMD to properly center on screen.

I have searched high and low to find a tutorial on this subject and am coming up empty. Any insight into how this is completed would be very helpful.

thanx.

Where to buy lamp? My set is starting to look a little dim and I will probably be looking for a new lamp soon. Do I get it from Samsung, or are there other, cheaper sources?


Just replaced mine from SamsungParts.com

Interesting is they ship the entire housing with the lamp for connection - it would seem to me much cheaper if you could buy the Philips bulb directly and if handy with a screwdriver just replace the bulb.

Just replaced mine from SamsungParts.com

Interesting is they ship the entire housing with the lamp for connection - it would seem to me much cheaper if you could buy the Philips bulb directly and if handy with a screwdriver just replace the bulb.The housing probably doesn't add much to the expense, and it helps to prevent getting your fingers on the bulb, which produces hots spots from the oil in your hands leading to shorter bulb life.

I've done this twice now (last night being the latest). Having the housing is a good thing, IMHO.

Just received my replacement bulb for my HLP5663W from samsungparts.com. Old one has approx 6600 hours on it and ordered the new one as a standby spare for when the original one does go. Would you guys recommend replacing with the new one now, or waiting for the original one to die. Will I see any difference with the new one ? Was thinking of replacing it now and keep the old one on hand as a backup. Thanks for any help !

Just received my replacement bulb for my HLP5663W from samsungparts.com. Old one has approx 6600 hours on it and ordered the new one as a standby spare for when the original one does go. Would you guys recommend replacing with the new one now, or waiting for the original one to die. Will I see any difference with the new one ? Was thinking of replacing it now and keep the old one on hand as a backup. Thanks for any help !If you replace it now, then you can use the old one as a backup and not have to reorder again until the new one is dead. Also by replacing it now you should be in warranty for the bulb if it goes bad after installing.

Anyway, that is how I did it.

If you replace it now, then you can use the old one as a backup and not have to reorder again until the new one is dead. Also by replacing it now you should be in warranty for the bulb if it goes bad after installing.

Anyway, that is how I did it.

Makes sense. Thanks. I'll have a go at it this week-end. From all I've read it seems pretty straight forward.

Cross post warning... I made a similar post in the HLPXX63W Owners Thread, back in January without any luck. There does not seem to be much traffic there these days, so I thought I would try here.


I am having a problem with my HLP5663. On video with a bright white screen (or nearly all white) on either component input, I lose sync. When the scene changes and the white disappears the picture comes back. On scenes that have a signicant amount of white the video seems to "tear" or get jittery. I cannot say that has happened on any thing in 4:3 mode (Pillar bars being black). The problem is happening often enough to bother the crap out of me

I have this same problem on both Component 1 and Component 2. I have tried 2 different sources, so the problem is not the source. The HDMI output of my HR10-250 no longer works, so I don't know if the same problem exists on the HDMI input or not.

I almost bought the service manual when I bought and replaced the CW in the fall. I wish I would have.

Do the Component inputs go through the analog board or the digital board? Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks


EDIT: Additional info - I was able to verifiy that there is NO problem with the HDMI input. A 16:9 all white screen loses sync on component input but not HDMI using the same source. The problem is definitely limited to component input. Anybody have a part number for the analog board?

Just replaced the bulb, on my HLP5663W, that had over 6600 hours and will keep the old one as an emergency backup.
What a difference ! Picture is so much brighter and images are back to where they were when I brought the TV home originally. Actually had to reduce the contrast and brightness settings a little. The wife even noticed the difference !

I've got the HLP5063W.

How do I find out how many hours are on the set? The lamp & ballast has been replaced once and the LE has also been replaced once.

Incidentally, I have another service call currently in limbo as the set shows a square "smudge" outline that is very prominent on solid/light colors. Going round and round with Best Buy/local provider to get it fixed.

I have the HLP5663 for about 3 years and all fine till now. Turned on the set this morning and displays picture but everything is blue !
Turned it off, waited about 5 minutes and turned it on again and now all OK.
Is this the sign if something about to fail (ie.color wheel etc ) ?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks !

I've got the HLP5063W.

How do I find out how many hours are on the set? The lamp & ballast has been replaced once and the LE has also been replaced once.

Incidentally, I have another service call currently in limbo as the set shows a square "smudge" outline that is very prominent on solid/light colors. Going round and round with Best Buy/local provider to get it fixed.If you search on "service menu" (in these forums) you will find details on how to access the TV's service menu... It's a certain key-press combination on the remote. In the service menu is the timer for bulb hours...

You and I are in the same boat... Bulb and ballast replaced about three years ago, light wheel went out last week. Tech said I'll be getting a new LE, as just replacing the wheel has a high failure rate.

PS. I have a smudge too, but it goes away when the set warms.

I have the HLP5663 for about 3 years and all fine till now. Turned on the set this morning and displays picture but everything is blue !
Turned it off, waited about 5 minutes and turned it on again and now all OK.
Is this the sign if something about to fail (ie.color wheel etc ) ?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks !
If it was the color wheel, you'd know it (I think)... When the wheel goes out (in my experience with two), you know it, as it makes a horrendous sound and causes quite a bit of low-frequency vibrations... My guess would be it was a sync issue... Which input was it on? Anyway, just a guess on my part... Maybe there are "silent" color wheel failures (see above post for my details).

Given the original TV expense I am trying to get all I can out of my Sammy DLP.
So far I've replaced the LE (under warranty) and just recently a Lamp and soon expect the ballast and color wheel to be next.

On the phone with the tech for my service call last week, he told me the color wheel is part of the light engine. He said the color wheel itself can be replaced, but in his experience one out of three fails, so he prefers just to replace the LE. If your LE was replaced, perhaps your color wheel was too?

Hi (my turn for a question),

Just had a new light engine installed...

As the tech was here, the picture looked fine, but latter I notice that the picture is off (rotated) by a 1/4" from the left to right of the screen... Not really noticeable, until you are watching a channel with a banner across the bottom, then it's VERY noticeable...

Is rotating the picture something I can do, or does the tech need to come back?

Thanks

I have an HL-P5085W(out of warranty) and I've been noticing purple spots showing up in images. It only shows up when the background is yellow, or a few other colors. Any idea what could be causing this?

My HL-P4663 has officially been deemed dead by Circuit City. I guess the Light Engine is no longer available according to the Customer Service reps and the service company. However I have seen this Light Engine available online but who am I to argue when they said they are going to be replacing my TV. LOL I'm actually gonna miss her a bit. She was my first HDTV. Got to watch the Giants win the Super Bowl on it....sniff sniff. Oh well I'll get over it when the replacement shows up.

I've been enjoying my TV for quite a while now. It just started displaying the DVI input in the top left quarter of the screen, leaving the other 3/4 black. All other inputs seem to display correctly. When I remove power from the TV, it seems to reset so that then the DVI input display correct the next time I turn it on. After that, the following time the DVI input is back to just the top left quarter.

Any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

I have a small speck of something stuck to the *inside* of my HLP-5063's screen. No idea what it is or how it got there but I know it's on the screen itself because I can actually slide the screen left and right a small amount and the spot moves with the screen.

So, how do I solve the problem? Is there some clever way to dislodge the crud without having to actually remove the screen? If I do need to remove the screen, are there instructions somewhere?

Thanks!

I have a HLP-5085 that just shut down one day and would not restart. I've owned this set since March 2005 and its been through 3 bulbs already, but after shutdown I pulled and checked the bulb it looks fine. I then pulled the light engine, so I could pull the color wheel and look at it, I found that the wire harness connected to the color wheel looked burnt, so I ordered one. The color wheel arrived and I installed it, put everything back together and nothing same problem, all I get is some kind of squealing and the sound but no picture, it try's like 4 times then shuts down. Does this sound like a bad ballast, I just hate to keep throwing parts at it, or would it be best to just buy a replacement light engine.:(

Hey everyone, I got a problem with my HL-P4663. Yesterday I turned on my tv for 24 : Redemption and there were red vertical dotted lines across the entire screen. They were spaced about a few inches across. I tried switching inputs, but each one had the same red lines. I had to turn the tv off and unplug it a few times for it to go away. Am I in for a soon to be dead HDtv set?

I was given a HLP4663W set by my old maid neighbor when she decided it would be too expensive to fix. I have been using it now for a month, first as a computer monitor and now as our main TV. It works most of the time but has two occasional failure mods that I expect are related. The first failure I noted was a very low level flickering in the picture. Can't tell if its color or intensity. The flickering is not a constant rate but appears like a multiple beat frequency that varies in rate periodically. This is almost tolerable. The most severe and least frequent failure is a smearing of color with the picture off center to the left a small amount. I've only seen this failure once, my wife has seen it a few times, and I fixed it by cycling power with a short wait between the off and back on times when I saw it. When it came back on the picture had the small flicker but all else worked fine. When the set is working it has a great picture. I talked with a local TV man that has been very helpful and he said it probably was the Digital Processing Board, can't remember the initials he used. He said the board would be expensive and suggested I check for an update on firmware or just reload original firmware first. He said most firmware updates are free and can be done by anyone with only a little electronic knowledge.

I am open for suggestions on what may be wrong and where I might obtain new firmware, if it is replaceable in this model. I'm not afraid to dig into the set as I started my career as a TV tech and ended my career as a consultant with heavy involvement in the video design of all the cameras on Hubble. This will be my first DLP experience.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Larry

I replaced the color wheel and have all kinds of blue-green color issues. I've read everywhere that I need to pull the jumper. But I can't tell/see what anyone is talking about.

I am posting a picture. I hope someone is out there that can help!! Please!!

Posternut,
Seems I'm too new to post a link so I'll try to direct you to an answer. Go to fixyourdlp.com, do a search on "color wheel replacement", click on the article/link for "Replacement of Samsung Color Wheel BP96-00674A". It is the first one when I do the search. It addresses the difference between jumpers for air bearing and ball bearing color wheels. Might have the info you need.

I'm still waiting for a reply to my question(s).

Good Luck,

Larry

I'm having the exact same problem as Pokernut where I just changed my color wheel and the colors are all whacked out. I didn't have a jumper cord plugged in nor could I find one. I see where it should go but theres no wire in that area. My model is the HLP5663w, i've read that I might need to adjust the index delay and the cca? Can anyone help me with this issue? Thanks

If you look at the picture I posted, you will see a yellow and white label. Right below it is where the jumper is. HOWEVER, whatever genius constructed my set put a plastic tab over it that you can see in the picture!! This covers up a small rectangular cutout that allows access to this mysterious jumper.

This was driving me insane because I thought that tab (at least that's what I'm calling it) was supposed to be there. My son, my wife and I all looked at it and agreed that it didn't appear to serve any purpose. It would not pop off, so I removed the fan you can see in the picture. No big deal as it is only 2 more screws. Then I pulled off the slotted board the plastic tab is attach to. Be careful not to pull, pinch or cut any wires. I think that may actually be the tabs purpose! There were 2 screws that attached that tab to the slotted board. I removed the tab. The tab covered a small rectangular opening that allowed me to get at the jumper!! The jumper is not a wire. I'm not sure what it is exactly.

I put the grate back on. Reinstalled the fan. And then took my needle nose pliers, as I have read everywhere but couldn't figure out WTF they were talking about until now, and pulled out a very very small plug. It was only a few millimeters by a few millimeters in actual size. I then had to put everything back together for like the sixth time! How I never broke the bulb or anything else I don't know.

I plugged the bitch back in and SHE WORKED!!!!! I was so proud of my non-electronic self I think I had actual tears come to my eyes. We were so close to dropping over 2 grand on a new TV and I did not want to have to do that.

I also learned that Samsung is no friggin help at all. They couldn't have a guy get on the phone and tell me. All you need to do is remove a useless piece of plastic, which I didn't even put back in. Ugh!!

I hope someone having the same frustration as myself finds this post and figures out how to get their TV to work without having to pay a technician!

Anyone know where I can get a copy of the Service Manual for a HL-P6163w without having to give Samsung, who I'm a little pissed with at the moment, any more of my money?

I know how to get into the menu by hitting mute-1-8-2-Power but I would like to learn how to tweak settings. I saw that my lamp hours is over 14,000+ hours. I'm on my 2nd bulb and it was never reset. Not that I'm sure how to reset it. I'm thinking of buying a new one before this one blows and use the new one. I'd hang onto the old one to serve as a back up when something happens to the newer one. That's what I was thinking anyway.

But if someone knows where the manual might be posted online or where to find a copy cheaper than Samsung itself is selling if for, I would be grateful.

Anyone know where I can get a copy of the Service Manual for a HL-P6163w without having to give Samsung, who I'm a little pissed with at the moment, any more of my money?

I know how to get into the menu by hitting mute-1-8-2-Power but I would like to learn how to tweak settings. I saw that my lamp hours is over 14,000+ hours. I'm on my 2nd bulb and it was never reset. Not that I'm sure how to reset it. I'm thinking of buying a new one before this one blows and use the new one. I'd hang onto the old one to serve as a back up when something happens to the newer one. That's what I was thinking anyway.

But if someone knows where the manual might be posted online or where to find a copy cheaper than Samsung itself is selling if for, I would be grateful.
Go to http://www.samsung.com/us/support/download/supportDown.do?group=&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_nm=HL-P6163W&dType=D&mType=UM&vType=R&prd_ia_cd=02010300&acc_ia_fl=&disp_nm=HL-P6163W&menu=download, or just logon to the web sites, click on TV then DLP and look for your model number. They have several versions of the manual in pdf format. There's no fee. You can read it on the computer or print it out or print parts of it out.

Go to http://www.samsung.com/us/support/download/supportDown.do?group=&type=televisions&subtype=dlptv&model_nm=HL-P6163W&dType=D&mType=UM&vType=R&prd_ia_cd=02010300&acc_ia_fl=&disp_nm=HL-P6163W&menu=download, or just logon to the web sites, click on TV then DLP and look for your model number. They have several versions of the manual in pdf format. There's no fee. You can read it on the computer or print it out or print parts of it out.He is looking for the service manual, not the user guide.

I had the service manual, but got rid of this TV and have since deleted it.

He is looking for the service manual, not the user guide.

I had the service manual, but got rid of this TV and have since deleted it.
Yes you're right, just user manuals. Sorry to hear your TV didn't last. I have been one of the lucky ones (just knocked on the wooden table next to me). Bought in 9-04 and just needed to replace a lamp, and we watch way too much TV in my house. I have a new rule, though. I don't turn this TV on anymore just to watch for a few minutes, because of the information on this forum. I noticed these sets aren't advertised as much in the weekly circulars of the remaining US major national electonics retailer. I think they need to come out with a 100,000-mile (160,000 km to everyone else in the world) warranty. I really like the DLP picture and I am sorry to hear of all the problems.

Yes you're right, just user manuals. Sorry to hear your TV didn't last. I have been one of the lucky ones (just knocked on the wooden table next to me). Bought in 9-04 and just needed to replace a lamp, and we watch way too much TV in my house. I have a new rule, though. I don't turn this TV on anymore just to watch for a few minutes, because of the information on this forum. I noticed these sets aren't advertised as much in the weekly circulars of the remaining US major national electonics retailer. I think they need to come out with a 100,000-mile (160,000 km to everyone else in the world) warranty. I really like the DLP picture and I am sorry to hear of all the problems.I didn't say my TV didn't last. I said I got rid of it, as in sold it on Craigslist, about a month ago. I replaced it with the HL67A750 LED-based 1080P DLP. The new TV is a huge improvement over the HLP.

Oh good, it seems you confidence in the DLP's. I would love to get a 1080p set with LED instead of a lamp etc. It's in the budget for the day after I win the lottery. But I have enjoyed 4.5 years of HDTV by not waiting for them to come out.

Oh good, it seems you confidence in the DLP's. I would love to get a 1080p set with LED instead of a lamp etc. It's in the budget for the day after I win the lottery. But I have enjoyed 4.5 years of HDTV by not waiting for them to come out.Actually, Samsung is getting out of the RP DLP business. There are no new models for 2009. The LED sets have been on sale at various vendors (as low as $999 for the 61") and are starting to disappear from inventories. Anyone who doesn't get one soon probably won't get one at all.

I'm glad I got my 67" when I did because it looks fantastic.

So I've got a problem with my hlp4663. Yesterday I turned it on and instantly heard this buzzing rattling sound and then a loud pop from the back of the tv, and it died. All I can get now is a blank screen and three blinking lights on the front. I've tried hard resets, but the tv still refuses to turn on. I'm thinking it might be a bad color wheel? What do you think? It's about 2 years old, by the way.

Ok so our TV has been experiencing some image problems lately. Model is a Samsung HLP6163 and the problem is that the picture randomly displays areas of intense red. It varies when this happens, comes and goes, but it's always red, almost looks like it's some sort of thermal vision effect (picture posted below). Was taken to a repair shop and they said the 'light engine' needed to be replaced, but if I'm not mistaken, the light engine is basically the entire tv. I'm wondering if it's something I can replace individually. The lamp was replaced recently and the color wheel doesn't make any weird noises and looks to be fine (not broken)..

Anybody have an idea?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/menappi/100_28691.jpg

I did a search and came up with very little. I have an older 46 inch DLP with about 3400 hours on the unit. It began turning off randomly. No flicker, just off. The fan is running and the amount of time it stays on varies. The unit will turn on right away with no problem. I called Samsung and got the usual response of schedule a service call. No real input as to what might be the problem. The rep did say it was not the bulb. I'm not sure it is worth repairing at this point unless someone here can give me some input. model HL-P4663W

I hope someone having the same frustration as myself finds this post and figures out how to get their TV to work without having to pay a technician!

THANKS so much to your post and the others on the jumper/bearing problem, this is exactly what I've been searching for. After hearing the dreaded grinding motor problems after I bought the TV, I replaced the color wheel which fixed that problem and then added the blue/green screen problems. I'm trying this tomorrow. Thanks again

So my Samsung HLR-5668 started giving me this green shade exactly on one half of the screen. No matter what input I use, its always there. Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong? I am out of warranty and want to know if its fixable or not.

See below pics....

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd130/bimmer29/P1120469.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd130/bimmer29/P1120473.jpg

So my Samsung HLR-5668 started giving me this green shade exactly on one half of the screen. No matter what input I use, its always there. Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong? I am out of warranty and want to know if its fixable or not.

See below pics....

It's probably fixable, but might not be cheap. I don't think this is a trivial fix. You're probably looking at a new board and/or light engine.

It's probably fixable, but might not be cheap. I don't think this is a trivial fix. You're probably looking at a new board and/or light engine.

Thanks for the reply. I am thinking some electronic board because its it exactly cut right down the middle of the TV. What board would I need?

On video with a bright white screen (or nearly all white) on either component input, I lose sync. When the scene changes and the white disappears the picture comes back. On scenes that have a signicant amount of white the video seems to "tear" or get jittery. I cannot say that has happened on any thing in 4:3 mode (Pillar bars being black). The problem is happening often enough to bother the crap out of me


Your post was from over a year ago but I am bumping it as I am having the exact same problem with my HLP-5085. Also, it was preceded by streaks across the screen when there are any white highlights in the image. If this was an old-style CRT, I would say it is the ballast or power supply. Would that same diagnosis apply on a DLP? Is there even a ballast in these things?

Thanks

Ok so our TV has been experiencing some image problems lately. Model is a Samsung HLP6163 and the problem is that the picture randomly displays areas of intense red. It varies when this happens, comes and goes, but it's always red, almost looks like it's some sort of thermal vision effect (picture posted below). Was taken to a repair shop and they said the 'light engine' needed to be replaced, but if I'm not mistaken, the light engine is basically the entire tv. I'm wondering if it's something I can replace individually. The lamp was replaced recently and the color wheel doesn't make any weird noises and looks to be fine (not broken)..

Anybody have an idea?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/menappi/100_28691.jpg

I have a HP-R5052 that is doing the exact same thing. It is random, but has gotten worse to the point it is red more often than not. We had a local dealer (who is a Samsung certified repair shop) come out and examine it. They said it was either a cable or the "input board". They also said the part would be about 200-300 dollars. The problem is when they checked with Samsung they were told the part was no longer available. After three months of the repair manager checking various sites and telling us the part was and then was not available, we gave up and bought another TV. I will still keep trying to get the part for the HP-R5052, but in the meantime we are enjoying a Panasonic TC-P50G10.

I would be interested in other people's experience with Samsung. Are parts hard to get for 4 year old TV's? Seems kinda early to phase out parts. Especially if they are having a known problem.

So is it that the technology is changing so fast that manufacturer's are not keeping stock of older parts to support even tv's 5 years old?:(

Got my Sammy back in July 2004; looks like the lamp is finally going. Set turns itself off and I get the three blinking lights. Funny thing is, if I am patient, the problem resolves itself after 4-8 cycles of on-off-on. Anyway, I think the samsungparts site has the best price but the bulb I need is nationwide backorder, bummer! It is a bit confusing too since the casing they show for the part number I need is not the same casing I have now. My casing looks like the other casing, different lamp part number that they offer. I guess if I need to I can pull the lamp and change it, it doesn't look too hard. Anyone else done this?

Got my Sammy back in July 2004; looks like the lamp is finally going. Set turns itself off and I get the three blinking lights. Funny thing is, if I am patient, the problem resolves itself after 4-8 cycles of on-off-on. Anyway, I think the samsungparts site has the best price but the bulb I need is nationwide backorder, bummer! It is a bit confusing too since the casing they show for the part number I need is not the same casing I have now. My casing looks like the other casing, different lamp part number that they offer. I guess if I need to I can pull the lamp and change it, it doesn't look too hard. Anyone else done this?
It was on backorder 6-months ago also. I didn't need one but I thought, "what the heck" and ordered one. Arrived in 5-days. Sitting on the shelf until I need it.:D