I was really looking to get a DLP for the new technology but with all of the problems with the Samsung issues of failure, really has me looking at the Mits Diamond TV which has one DVI connector and with the 73" being sold for 5K I can get a good proven TV without all of the DLP issues. The TV will be use for 70% SD, 20% DVD, & 10% HD.


OH yeah I do have the space in my basement to accomodate the size. Xbox & Playstation will just have to stay with the old tube.


Ernie

Originally posted by CraigSharrow
After two weeks, my HLP5063 displayed the dreaded triple flashing lights (Lamp, Standby, & Timing).

I have been pursuing this problem with Samsung.

Yesterday, in a remarkably unguarded moment, a Samsung employee told me "You don't want to know how many [Sammy 5063s] have had problems with the lamp/ballast; the parts warehouse is currently out-of-stock on replacement lamp/ballast".

My HLP5063, purchased through powerbuy, first batch, started 3 blinking light problems and died a week ago. Samsung sent a part (ballast) to local service center today, who will come out to my house tomorrow. I'll post the result.
There is a thread (DLP-3 blinking light problem poll) for 2 years since HLM series. I wonder why the same problems are repeating on three different series. Are there other factors involved other than defective parts, such as sudden power surge or faulty connections? If yes, how to prevent?
Thanks.

I just had the same problem fixed today on my HLP5063W. The tech speculated that since the problem seems to happen shortly after delivery, he feels that it might have to do with the shipping or packaging. He also replaced the bulb.

If you get the Samsung tech, it is good service. The first service call on my problem was a locally authorized shop that didn't seem to know what they were doing and had to take it back to their shop to fix. They returned it fixed, but it failed an hour later. After the first visit I told Samsung there was no way I was going back to the first repair shop. The Samsung guy had at least a 45 minute drive and he pulled up in Samsung truck loaded with parts to fix anything.

FYI, between the service calls and after several power connects and reconnects recommended by Samsung and a couple dozen power up attempts, the TV worked and I left it on 24/7 to tide me over until the second visit. Fortunately, it repeated the failure mode when second tech was there today.


Originally posted by oldavnut
My HLP5063, purchased through powerbuy, first batch, started 3 blinking light problems and died a week ago. Samsung sent a part (ballast) to local service center today, who will come out to my house tomorrow. I'll post the result.
There is a thread (DLP-3 blinking light problem poll) for 2 years since HLM series. I wonder why the same problems are repeating on three different series. Are there other factors involved other than defective parts, such as sudden power surge or faulty connections? If yes, how to prevent?
Thanks.

paul,

I ordered a 5063 and am starting to get real cold feet reading all these posts about q/c problems with Samsung. One can hope that later batches have improved quality, but at 3k for a set, you'd expect that on the front end.

Hope your situation works out

I've read many of the posts in this thread and I can't help but wonder (as a potential 46" HLP owner) how many of these problems are common to the overall populous? Although unassuring and daunting to the forum reader/member, I just can't believe that all of these problems are common among a significant portion of the Sammy owners. I am by no means trying to belittle any of the problems people are having, however, I think the problems also should be taken with a grain of salt. Thing is, no set will ever be 100% perfect in all respects. It may be 100% perfect for an individual's needs, but I highly doubt any set will be perfect. That's part of the reason there are new models every year, right?... other than adding new up-to-date features.

Sorry for the rant. Trust me, I'm as eager to hear the problems as everybody else... I just think that the cause for alarm may not be as emminent as it appears.

The visit today solved all the problems and the techs were top notch. Despite the quality issue, I have no regrets about the purchase.

After reading all the potential problems, I decided that perhaps a B&M shop would be the best source for an HLP. I had decided to return my Sony 34" direct view already, so while I was there I made a play for the HLP4663, and did quite well, comparable to PB pricing (most price difference was in the service plan).

So, it will be here Thursday (something I also was willing to pay for) and I'll let you all know how it goes!

Originally posted by Miratony
paul,

I ordered a 5063 and am starting to get real cold feet reading all these posts about q/c problems with Samsung. One can hope that later batches have improved quality, but at 3k for a set, you'd expect that on the front end.

Hope your situation works out


Seems like all of the bad sets are coming via the Powerbuy purchases and not that many from B&M stores. That makes it difficult because you can't easily return it and replace it with something else.

What r B&M stores?
Chris

Originally posted by Auditor55
Seems like all of the bad sets are coming via the Powerbuy purchases and not that many from B&M stores. That makes it difficult because you can't easily return it and replace it with something else.

Nope. Just a totally skewed sample. Obviously there are more pople here that are involved with AVS and TVA as many people who would buy through a B&M have never heard of AVS, TVA, or a powerbuy.

One other thing to remember is that the people who are posting here are the ones having problems. There are plenty more people who don't have the problem and don't have the need to post. I work at CC and we have yet to have any new HLP's returned to us, and our display model 50 and 46 have both worked flawlessly, causing many former Sony lcd lovers to look more favorably on DLP now. I have an HLN-W1 since mid May and haven't had any problems at all with it.

I got mine at BB, not thru the Powerbuy - so I don't think they just got a bad shipment; I suspect the problem is just a touch more widespread than that.

Originally posted by baylorgator
One other thing I've noticed is that sometimes facial features (particularly on close ups) have strange contrasting effects. The best way I can describe it is that sometimes people's cheeks or parts of their faces look too white and slightly dithered, like they're being viewed through fog. Since it only happens on parts of the face, it makes for a rather strange, surreal effect. It is particularly noticeable (and bothersome) on darker skin tones like african americans, and obviously most prominent on close ups.



I have an HLP5663W mfg in May '04 and am running everything through DVI. I have this exact same effect from time to time. It particularly happens in dark scenes and was terrible during the end of the last Six Feet Under HD episode (and it was the fair skinned white guy, not the african american). Fortunately it doesn't occur too often. I'm having the set professionally calibrated next month, but I doubt it will help this problem. It does (unfortunately) seem to be common with the HLPs.

Originally posted by Badbenz94
What r B&M stores?
Chris Brick & Mortar....as in not-online.

The Dreamer

Thanks!
Chris

Originally posted by coati858
A quick update on mine: Samsung is going to have a "field engineer" contact me in the next 24 hours. Apparently there are only ~10 of these in the country, and he ought to have a good idea of how to deal with this problem.

I did have to wait on hold for over an hour (thank God for speaker phones at work), but other than that I'd call it pretty good service from Samsung so far...

An update update;)

The field engineer did, indeed, call me yesterday and was very nice. He said it's most likely one of two things, and that he's ordered a new light engine which could arrive friday. If it does, he'll come by friday or saturday to replace that. If it's not the light engine, the other part (the chip?) is on backorder with an anticipated availability date of the 27th. If the new light engine doesn't fix it, and the other part takes too long to get here (or the problem goes from intermittent to constant) we'll just get the whole set replaced.

So far I'm still happy with Samsung's service. Hopefully they will get up to speed on the good part availability front.
:)

I am little confused about the "headaches" people have when watching these tvs. I am due the 50" HLP in a couple of weeks. I bought it manily for HD sports as my linving room is usaully packed with 5-10 people every Sunday to watch the Birds. What are the chances that 1 or more of my folks will get a headache? Is it the technology itself or the Samsung set? we all watch games together and I couldn't imagine one of them not being able to hangout cuz of my TV. Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

Originally posted by filislim
I bought it manily for HD sports as my linving room is usaully packed with 5-10 people every Sunday to watch the Birds.
It's more likely that you will have a problem fitting that many (10) into a seats with good viewing angles unless you can stack them up in rows.

CraigSharrow and Paulchimay, Thank you sharing information.

Three flashing light problem has been fixed today by local repair guy. He admitted this is his first time handling the TV, but he is a good one. He is going a five day training for DLP TV, Samsung provide. He replaced ballast only. When he discussed with Samsung about the problem, Samsung said it's faulty ballast. Although he requested light engine and lamp as well, the parts have not been arrived. He just came out with ballast and hoped to fix the problem. So far he is successful. He warned one thing though. He said it can be caused by lightening even if a surge protector is used. Please pull out the plug when lightening is around.
Otherwise, I'm very happy with the TV. I have to go back to work. I'll update more when I'm home. Thanks.

Anybody sporting the 61" HLP on this thread???
Feedback?

Also, I'm really suprised nobody has any photos showcasing thier HLP set up!

Originally posted by htwaits
It's more likely that you will have a problem fitting that many (10) into a seats with good viewing angles unless you can stack them up in rows.
I respectfully disagree. My HLN is only 43" and I can easily seat 7 people in a semi-circle around it. At 45 degrees off center the picture is still fine. With a 50" he should be able to seat the people further back and have even more room.

As to the headaches some people experience, I believe they are caused by the color wheel used in all single chip DLP tv's, it's not a Samsung specific problem. Most people who do experience headaches get over them as they get used to the TV.

Well, my new HLP arrived today to replace my malfunctioning HLN507w, which is looking better and better on the floor...I digress.

Bought the set through the PB, no problems there really. Anyhow, some no name shipping company delivers my set. The first clue that something could have been wrong was the fact that 1 guy brought it to my door.

To make a long story short, my set is toast. No picture beyond channel 14, no digital, no HD. The channels I get look like a Warhol painting, like negative art.

I am calling tomorrow for an authorized tech to come out and look at the set...which has only been on for 5, count them 5 minutes...only about 30 seconds of working.

I suspect the delivery company. No proof, so it is only speculation, but it does seem funny that most of the complaints are from those of us in the PB. If we rule out Samsung being dubious and sending TVA crappy sets, which is a long shot at best, the next logical place to look is the shipping.

So, that's it, I am slightly pissed...more in shock. Major shock!

Originally posted by ofc319
To make a long story short, my set is toast. No picture beyond channel 14, no digital, no HD. The channels I get look like a Warhol painting, like negative art.


When you say no picture beyond 14...how do you have the TV connected and what is your "Air / CATV" setting? For example, if your TV is connected directly to cable, you should change this setting to "STD" (most likely) or "HRC" or "IRC" (possibly, depending on your cable system). 2 - 14 just happens to be where the VHF and cable overlap.

When you say "no digital, no HD", are you talking about DVI & component?

As an HLP4663 owner who has had really no issues with my set as of yet, the thing that scares me the most reading this thread is that I have about 3 days left to decide as to whether I should go get the extended warranty from CC. There have been other threads as to whether it is worth it or not but the more of these posts I read the more nervous I get and the better it looks - regardless of price.

ofc319, I couldn't agree with you more regarding most complaints are coming from people who have had their sets shipped to them. I doubt that a bad batch of sets was given to TVA - instead I think there is no question there is a quality control problem at Samsung. Anytime a delicate piece of equipment is shipped across country, or even across town, you never know what is going to happen to it - especially when you get a couple of guys who could care less delivering it. (which is why I went the B&M route and picked it up myself and 'gingerly' delivered to my own home).

I would buy the extended warranty. You'll need bulb replacement within 4 years, cc covers that, and that right there is $200. BTW, I imagine some shipping was involved in getting your TV from Korea to your local CC. Unless teleportation was invented without me noticing.

Hi everyone,

I tried to play with the input settings. Basically, I changed to each option and was not able to display any channels that were coming across digitally or in HD.

I then hooked up my DVD to Component 2 and no luck, the entire picture was all distorted; next step was to try this with my antenna input. Same thing, just even worse...if it could be worse.

I plugged my HLN back in and presto, I have a great picture again.

The end result for me is a 56" hunk of junk right now, but it will get fixed and life will go on. I just know that this is my last big internet purchase. I am really missing that B&M comfort factor, but not thier price.

I will let everyone know what the tech says, maybe someone else will have the same problem and be able to save a few hours of frustration.

Time for beer #2. It is going to be a long night.

Got my HLP5063w 11 days ago. Here's what I got feeding into it:

1. Xbox with component cables
2. High-Definition satelite receiver with DVI cable (for football when it's finally time)
3. Tivo with svideo cable

My Sony receiver handles the audio and all audio is communicated to it from the respective device via optical cable (all three devices)

The xbox and high-def receiver work perfectly. The tivo does not. There is about a 0.25 second delay for the picture to appear as it lags the receiver's audio.

I tried feeding a different kind of video signal from the Tivo to the 5063 such as coax and RCA - same laggy results. When I feed the video signal to my old low-def TV in the bedroom via coax and crank up my Sony's volume so I can hear it down the hall (20 feet or so), the sound is right on. Also, the Sony does not have a delay option so I can't go that route.

Currently, I'm feeding both audio (RCA) and video (svideo) to the TV from the Tivo while muting the sony and it works. Trouble is, I can't use my Sony which has surround sound. I had the bright idea of feeding audio from the tivo to the 5063 and from the 5063 to the Sony figuring I'd lose surround but at least it would be in sync but it wasn't.

I've tried turning on and off all the picture enhancement options. Also, when I have audio coming out of the TV and the receiver simultaneously there is an obvious echo like a large stadium.

I'm getting them to replace my TV on Friday. I'll let you all know what happens. If anyone has any other troubleshooting ideas, I'll give them a shot. Thanks for reading.

I hear people running to the new Mits DLP for another grand, and as it has been said on the forum before, no matter what television you get, DLP or otherwise, there are going to be some glitches. Its a machine people! As for the Sammy DLP's, I'd much rather go with a company who's already familiar with the issues than start all over again with another company. I can't wait to see the Mits thread on quirks and problems with that set. Then people will flock to the Panny when it comes out and bingo..another problem thread. When will we stop and just enjoy the televisions for what they have to offer...and that is a great picture!! GO 46" SAMMY!!

There has already been some talk about a dealer who returned their first shipment of Mitsubishi DLP sets because of fan noise do to improper installation.

Panasonic sold a generation 1 DLP using the HD1 chip in the $10K - $13K range without any serious problems. They upgraded to the HD2 chip and reduced the price to $5K and had so much trouble that they announced they were pulling out of the DLP market. I almost bought one.

Toshiba had a similar experience with LCoS.

Pick your poison. Samsung has at least demonstrated one thing. They are willing to keep trying.

Originally posted by htwaits
There has already been some talk about a dealer who returned their first shipment of Mitsubishi DLP sets because of fan noise do to improper installation.


Pick your poison. Samsung has at least demonstrated one thing. They are willing to keep trying.


I'm having my Mits exchanged on Friday for a set without the fan noise.

Originally posted by Auditor55
I'm having my Mits exchanged on Friday for a set without the fan noise.

I wouldn't expect anything less from Mitsubishi, or Toshiba, or Panasonic, or LG, or JVC, or even Sony. :D

squicken,
My only point is that it seems to make sense that from the manufacturer to the reseller, I would think that great care would be taken. I mean, Samsung and/or the reseller are the ones controlling the shipment, the sets are in a controlled environment as established by guidelines from Samsung themselves.
But - take that same tv and have 'Joe Bob' deliver it from 'ABC delivery' company and who knows how the guy is transporting the set?

I've read too many stories about 1 guy delivering a 50" tv, or the tv setting down off the delivery truck in front of the buyers house and they 'drop' it the last foot.

I guess what I'm saying is Samsung and the resellers take great care to get the product to their place of resale only to then have some idiot deliver it that is a guy making 8 bucks an hour and who cares less about his job. There is a reason that so many tv's are exhibiting problems from buyers off the net - and it isn't because Samsung decided to give a 'bad batch' to TVA.

Got it, and I see your point. I had a one guy and a big truck delivery. He had a hydraulic gate, lowered it down, put it on a dolly, and I helped him get it through the door.

New problem: I am getting video drop-outs from my XBOX. It has never happended before. I have checked my connections. And it's happening on different games. I've got a technician coming out next week, but I've got a call supposedly coming from one of Samsung's engineers. Hopefully engineer calls me before tech. does service.

When you checked the connections, did you try swapping out the cables? That could eliminate them as a source of the problem.

Yes. Checked cable. Also checked component 1 and 2 with different cables. The problem appears to be component #1 (couldn't replicate problem with DVD though...could be trouble with progressive inputs). A product specialist named Alphonso is supposed to call me today, so I'll let everyone know about any known issues and how customer service is handling things.

I've performed basic PQ adjustments using a calibration DVD hooked up via Component 1. Do these settings only apply to Component 1?

How do I perform similar adjustments for Component 2? It currently has a STB hooked up to it. Do I pull out the STB from Component 2, temporarily hook up the DVD player, tweak using the calibration disc, then reconnect the STB? Or do I just copy settings from Component 1 to Component 2? (Somehow neither of these sound logical as the STB and the DVD player can have different output properties.)

Besides using your DVD player, it's hard to run tweaks on oter inputs. HDNET has test signals early in the mornings sometimes, but these are supposedly flawed.

Somewhere there is a thread someone did called something like "The Dirty Rat" or "Hairy Dog" or something like that about calibration techniques. Do a search on it. Also, try cnet.com. They have a section on tweaking that just involves using images from shows. It's all very basic and trial and error, but it's something.

Originally posted by squicken
Got it, and I see your point. I had a one guy and a big truck delivery. He had a hydraulic gate, lowered it down, put it on a dolly, and I helped him get it through the door.

New problem: I am getting video drop-outs from my XBOX. It has never happended before. I have checked my connections. And it's happening on different games. I've got a technician coming out next week, but I've got a call supposedly coming from one of Samsung's engineers. Hopefully engineer calls me before tech. does service.

Couple of questions out of curiosity:

1. Which games?
2. Type of connection?
3. Resoultion?
4. Timing of dropouts and for how long?
5. Complete dropout, or distorted picture after dropout?

I have an issue with a component video splitter causing dropouts. The picture then is distorted afterwards.

Originally posted by AssMan
...

Anytime a delicate piece of equipment is shipped across country, or even across town, you never know what is going to happen to it - especially when you get a couple of guys who could care less delivering it. (which is why I went the B&M route and picked it up myself and 'gingerly' delivered to my own home).

My B&M didn't have it in-store, it had to be delivered. After carefully sliding it out of the truck, when they went to angle it on the hydraulic rack the one guy slammed it down pretty awful hard... TV turned on and nothing seems severely awry, except that i have an obvious fleck of dust/plastic/whatever inside the unit giving me a black spot about 6 pixels around (too soft and odd-shaped to be dead pixels).

Was gonna drop by the store later tonight anyway...

1. Shadow Ops: Red Mercury, Spiderman II
2. Component through XBOx HD PAck
3. 480p
4. Intermittent. 1 every 15 minutes. About 3 seconds.
5. Complete dropout. Screen goes black. I'm thinking of turning blue screen on in UM. I don't know if that will matter or not.

Originally posted by squicken
Somewhere there is a thread someone did called something like "The Dirty Rat" or "Hairy Dog" or something like that about calibration techniques.


Steaming Rat! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=261309)

That's it. Thanks batf.

Not trying to make this a shipping thread, but somewhere between China, Korea or Mexico and the B&M (mfg. plant to dock yard to container to boat to dock to customs to distribution center to B&M) these TVs are handled by the same sort of freight forwarding company that delivers to your home. They may be shrink wrapped on pallets most of the way, but they still ride in the same 18 wheelers on the same roads and are handled by the same type of folks.

Point is - it is difficult to pinpoint where shipping problems arise, if they exist (unless there is obvious physical damage). Which means, IMHO, the DLP problems are lilkely QA issues. Just my 2 cents.

Shipping problems arise when the load is broken down (separated
into individual pieces).

As individual units are shipped, they get handled, short drops, etc.
Possibly, the B&M folks take more care, because the piece part shipping
is usually done in house (personnel are aware of hi-value package).
Internet sales/shipping are handled by general freight haulers for the
most part.

Received my 56" yesterday. The TV showed up during the 4 hour window while I was at work and my wife was at home. There was one delivery person that had a dolly. As my wife saw him try to drag the box up the outside cement stairs through the front door, she stopped him and told him that she would get her shoes and help him carry the tv into the house.

It didnt appear to be any damage to the box or the contents. I dont have any HD programming yet, it will come saturday from Time Warner. I plugged the cable directly into the TV. At first the analog cable looked terrible, but after a while the picture did get better. (watchable)
I am hoping that non-hd programming will still get a little better once I have the converter box installed. From everyone experience, will it get better?

Thanks.

Just received my HLP5063 replacement from Sound Track in Denver last night which is a July build. My first one (May build) died after about 5 weeks with the 3 blinking light problem. I noticed right away that the image on the new set is bowed downward at the top of the screen when viewing movies shown in OAR. I got out a ruler and the image drops 1/4" in the center of the screen. It does not have this distortion at bottom of the screen. You can even see the image distortion when switching to an input that is not being used. The logo bar in the upper left corner which says for example "Component 1 : DVD" is even dropping at a noticeable angle. Has anyone else had this problem with an HLP. I really do not want to keep exchanging these to only end up with another problem. I was considering just speaking to Samsung about having a tech make an adjustment or trading the set for a JVC D-ILA when they get them in.

Component Inputs
Does the 61" only have 2 Component Imputs as well?




I know it has DVI so this is probably what I'll do:

Component 1: DVD
Component 2: X-box
DVI:HD Cable/DVR player (when it comes out) (for now I use s-video with my Crapcast Cable box/DVR Player

God I hate those Scientific Atlanta Cable Boxes...

Chas
PS DOES ANYBODY HAVE A LINK TO THE HLP6163W Manual?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by chaslum
[B]Component Inputs
Does the 61" only have 2 Component Imputs as well?

Added later: quoted the wrong part. This is the link to the Sammy manual.


http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/support/b2c_support_product_results.jsp?eUser=&CatPath=%2fAudio+and+Video%2fTV%2fDLP+TV

Panic. I have noticed the bowing on the sides. In an earlier post, someone mention this is normal. As for the vertical bowing, I have noticed this also, and I just assumed it was the way it was supposed to look.

Your wife had to help bring the TV into your house!! That is an outrage, its unacceptable:mad:

Originally posted by squicken
Panic. I have noticed the bowing on the sides. In an earlier post, someone mention this is normal. As for the vertical bowing, I have noticed this also, and I just assumed it was the way it was supposed to look.

I am fairly certain my first set did not have this issue. If it did it was definitely not as pronounced. Maybe I am looking too hard for issues with the new set.

Originally posted by Auditor55
Your wife had to help bring the TV into your house!! That is an outrage, its unacceptable:mad:

I know it is....I am just glad it arrived without any damage. I am going to email TVA to let them know of my experience..

I just had my 5063 replaced this morning and I still have the sync problem. It only occurs when the input video is low-definition like my old directivo. To confirm I fed the svideo of the tivo to the 5063 and the rca video of the tivo to a small regular tv. Changing menu selections shows the 5063 lagging substantially behind the small tv. You can watch it here if you'd like:

Delay Movie (http://www.geocities.com/fizgig10/Samsungdelay.mov)

The first 5063 that was eventually replaced was made June 2004. I didn't check the date of the second one that had the same problem. When I get home I'll add it to this post. Changing any of the picture options makes no difference.

Anyone who intends to use their Samsung 5063 to watch any low definition signal should first examine their receiver to make sure it can do a delay (mine can't). Also, if you plan to play playstation or something in low definition, I'd advise against the 5063.

I've had no problems with delays playing playstation on my 5063. Then again I have it hooked in via component, so that may be the difference. I've never even used the s-video or RCA jacks for anything.

've had no problems with delays playing playstation on my 5063. Then again I have it hooked in via component, so that may be the difference. I've never even used the s-video or RCA jacks for anything.

That's why I mention low definition:

Also, if you plan to play playstation or something in low definition, I'd advise against the 5063.

Well the PS2 is low-def no matter what. Its always running in 480i. So the TV is still getting the same signal. So the difference could be I just have a "working" set, or the component inputs exhibit less or no delay. No real way to know.

Apparently, additional processing must be done for the svideo, coax and RCA video inputs which slows it down. I would encourage any Samsung xx63 users to try these inputs out and see what happens.

I just got off hold with the digital service department at Samsung (hold time 1 hour and 15 minutes). They say that they have only heard about this issue a handful of times with this series. They say they will call me back by tomorrow as they don't know what they're going to do about this issue.

Should you find that your set has a delay as well, that might be a disadvantage for you in the future if you ever want to play a tape, watch satelite through the regular (free) non-hd receiver and so forth. Bottom line is, more people that have the problem need to report it in order for Samsung to take any action on it or we might find ourselves with HD-only TV's.

From Samsung’s website (HL-P5085W) : “Samsung Cinema Smooth™ Film-Mode 3:2 Pull Down Powered by Genesis™ ”

Regarding the Genesis/Faroudja integrated line-doubler/deinterlacer, is there any definitive information regarding what input and output resolutions are actually implemented by Samsung? The genesis website claims output support for 1080i, does the Samsung light engine then take this as the input?

From what I can tell from the Samsung HL-P5085W documentation (HD2+), the the Faroudja logic is only supported on 480i inputs, so there doesn’t seem to be support for SD. From their website: “Film mode is supported in 480i mode only”

I was also under the impression that DNiE works with SD signals however isn’t this the marketing name for the same Faroudja technology or is it actually something else? Is DNIE a different doubler/scaler/de-interlacer that supports SD?

What gives?

Originally posted by jhalpern
From Samsung’s website (HL-P5085W) : “Samsung Cinema Smooth™ Film-Mode 3:2 Pull Down Powered by Genesis™ ”

Regarding the Genesis/Faroudja integrated line-doubler/deinterlacer, is there any definitive information regarding what input and output resolutions are actually implemented by Samsung? The genesis website claims output support for 1080i, does the Samsung light engine then take this as the input?

From what I can tell from the Samsung HL-P5085W documentation (HD2+), the the Faroudja logic is only supported on 480i inputs, so there doesn’t seem to be support for SD. From their website: “Film mode is supported in 480i mode only”

I was also under the impression that DNiE works with SD signals however isn’t this the marketing name for the same Faroudja technology or is it actually something else? Is DNIE a different doubler/scaler/de-interlacer that supports SD?

What gives?

3:2 Pulldown and DNIe are two different features. 3:2 pulldown is applied to 480i sources shot at 24 fps (i.e. DVDs). You do have the option to turn film mode on or off for all of the inputs other than DVI and HDMI (since those inputs can't even accept 480i). However, I don't believe the 3:2 pulldown does anything to a standard "video" picture that you would be receiving from SD (which is 480i also, incidentally).

DNIe is Samsung proprietary image enhancement feature that sharpens the image and does a few other things (they have a whole demo on their website). This feature can be applied to any of the inputs (including DVI and HDMI) and the set even has a little demo feature where it splits the screen w/ DNIe On / DNIe Off. Depending on what I am watching I flip back and forth with DNIe. On HD I usually leave it on, SD, sometimes leave it on and DVD, rarely leave it on.

So the features are different. I'm no expert and can't comment on Genesis' support for 1080i.

HLP4663 - I'm really not liking DNiE, I should mention. I can't see it in any way being an advantage to this TV for anyone who's seeking a true-to-life image. There is a Demo mode that shows the left side of the screen with DNiE enabled and the right side disabled. Without fail, when I've enabled the demo the left-side becomes washed out, much too bright and absolutely squirmy with mosquito noise.

DNiE to my knowledge has nothing to do with the Faroudja, it's Samsung's own processing invention. Please correct me if I'm wrong and I'll update this post.

I'm going to pick up the component pack for my PS/2 today and see if that makes it livable. Since I've noticed it, I'm finding the TiVo is probably a little bit behind and there's no way to make the TiVo output component... I think it's probably only as far behind as PS/2, but the fact that PS/2 involves my hands makes it seem much more severe.

Originally posted by magaggie
HLP4663 - I'm really not liking DNiE, I should mention. I can't see it in any way being an advantage to this TV for anyone who's seeking a true-to-life image. There is a Demo mode that shows the left side of the screen with DNiE enabled and the right side disabled. Without fail, when I've enabled the demo the left-side becomes washed out, much too bright and absolutely squirmy with mosquito noise.


Hmmm.. interesting as I have had just the opposite reaction to DNiE on my HLP5063. Almost without fail to my eyes it makes the picture appear "sharper" and I find myself using it more often than not. I certainly havn't felt it was washed out, too bright or as you put it "squirmy" with mosquito noise. I suppose it is more than anything a matter of personal preference.

Turning the sharpness all the way down, especially on DVI, HDMI or component, goes a long way toward eliminating mosquito noise without hurting picture detail. DNIE is a separate issue. I always leave DNR on. Like a previous poster, I find it hurts DVDs more than it helps, but it seems to do good things on HD and SD over cable. Try the demo made and switch sources to make up your own mind.

Originally posted by magaggie
There is a Demo mode that shows the left side of the screen with DNiE enabled and the right side disabled. Without fail, when I've enabled the demo the left-side becomes washed out, much too bright and absolutely squirmy with mosquito noise.


I think there is something funky with the demo mode. If you can pause the picture (like with Tivo) and then go to the DNiE menu and scroll up and down between off, demo, and on, (and look at edge detail) you will see that that what is displayed on the left while in demo mode is NOT the same thing that is displayed when either off or on.

My 5063 arrived yesterday and worked well right out of the box. The cable co. is scheduled for Monday so meanwhile I'm stuck with SD imput.
I am much more conscious of defects in the picture source with this tv: faces with red tones seem too red. I've scaled down to "cool 2" which is an improvement but not enough. I have a Sony crt SD set in another room with same model cable box and I spent some time going back and forth with both tuned to the same channel. I could see on the Sony that the same faces had the same tones but on the Sony it was more subtle. Not subtle on Sammy. Of course the Sony is only 27 inches and a lot may have to do with size. In addition to color I was much more conscious of (I'm not sure what to call it) shadowing around each figure i.e., a thin line of ghosting. Checking my CRT it was there too but less noticeble...again could be size. My question is: Will the HD cable box do anything to improve SD pictures either in terms of color or ghosting? BTW, I had tuned to a news program because the source material would vary a lot during the show.

I also have some sound delay. It was VERY noticable when walking down the hallway between the two rooms with TV's tuned to the same channel. At a certain point where the sound was equal it sounded like I had a reverb (?) machine on....quite an echo. This didn't happen before I got this set.

To be continued as I investigate more....

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
I think there is something funky with the demo mode. If you can pause the picture (like with Tivo) and then go to the DNiE menu and scroll up and down between off, demo, and on, (and look at edge detail) you will see that that what is displayed on the left while in demo mode is NOT the same thing that is displayed when either off or on.

Hmm, I haven't noticed that when I was cycling. I'll look again. But so far I am strongly anti-DNiE...

That said, there's good news on the PS/2 front -- as others have reported, picking up the HD A/V pack for the PS/2 worked very well. Despite the fact that it's still a 480i signal, the delay is eliminated. SSX3 is great fun on this TV...

My headache went away last night, even though I was watching tv. Perhaps DLP has a mental calibration period.

So now I want to find out if there's anyway I can get my TiVo's output externally converted to component to eliminate TiVo delay that way... then of course I'll need a component switcher, grrr.

UPDATE: If anyone knows of a reasonably priced S-video (or even, I suppose, composite) to component converter please let me know... a quick Google found lots of people looking, few to none providing.

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
My 5063 arrived yesterday and worked well right out of the box. The cable co. is scheduled for Monday so meanwhile I'm stuck with SD imput.
I am much more conscious of defects in the picture source with this tv: faces with red tones seem too red. I've scaled down to "cool 2" which is an improvement but not enough. I have a Sony crt SD set in another room with same model cable box and I spent some time going back and forth with both tuned to the same channel. I could see on the Sony that the same faces had the same tones but on the Sony it was more subtle. Not subtle on Sammy. Of course the Sony is only 27 inches and a lot may have to do with size. In addition to color I was much more conscious of (I'm not sure what to call it) shadowing around each figure i.e., a thin line of ghosting. Checking my CRT it was there too but less noticeble...again could be size. My question is: Will the HD cable box do anything to improve SD pictures either in terms of color or ghosting? BTW, I had tuned to a news program because the source material would vary a lot during the show.

I also have some sound delay. It was VERY noticable when walking down the hallway between the two rooms with TV's tuned to the same channel. At a certain point where the sound was equal it sounded like I had a reverb (?) machine on....quite an echo. This didn't happen before I got this set.

To be continued as I investigate more.... Using AVIA, I can't get the colors close to what they should be. If I set blue correctly, green and red are way off. If I get red and green somewhat close, blue is way off. Right now red is at +5, blue at +10, green at -10. It is very frustrating because I really notice how subdued greens look in nature films on DHDT.

Ghosting is purely a reception problem inherent to analog transmission. If the transmission has ghosting, your TV will display it.

I've notice SD channels upconverted by sat. box and sent to TV through DVI look much better than SD coming through TIVO through S-Video. My only a/v lag is on s-video, and it is very very minor. One thing I have noticed is that SpikeTV seems to have very bad PQ no matter the source. When watching SNG everything is too dark so there are clay faces and dithering everywhere.

I just had an interesting thought. Someone mentioned elsewhere (here or in PowerBuy) that a certain number of sets were released without the Faroudja logo on the front, apparently due to a licensing disagreement.

We'd all assumed that the guts were the same, just a logo change -- but do we have confirmation of that? More interestingly, do the June-04 and later units (that don't exhibit the video delay issue) bear the logo? Is it possible that the un-labeled sets have a different converter?

"Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not all out to get you."

I was surprised when I first turned on the Sammy. There was waaaaay too much color saturation. Very unnatural. What I'm getting at the Cool 2 setting should, IMHO, be the standard configuration. I'm glad I will be having a technician in to calibrate. Waiting until Sept. when, I hope, my 941 will have arrived from the power buy.

I don't think the DCDI logo, which is missing on my June set, means the Faroudja chip is missing. It just means Samsung paid less in royalties.

If you think about AV delay, the best case scenario is a DVD player or STB that deinterlaces and upconverts and sends a pure digital signal to the TV. The worst case scenario is a non-progressive player, Tivo or game console with an analog connection. When it gets to the TV, the video signal has to be deinterlaced and upconverted to the native resolution and be translated back into a digital signal. Meanwhile, if the audio goes straight to the receiver, it is going to come out first. (Samsung's fixes and the delay settings in the service menu only affect TV audio.)

Keep in mind this problem isn't unique to Samsung. One article linked elsewhere estimates half of all HD sets are affected -- including plasmas, CRTs, LCDs, etc. Samsung has improved things in the HLP, and trying different connections on your own can help, along with experimenting with receiver delay (or distance) settings.

It's also inherent in some cable and satellite STBs, and WILL show up on older, smaller, direct-view sets if you look closely. I recently compared on my old 27-incher and was amazed that I had never noticed lip-synch issues before when they had apparently always been there. A big screen with a sharp image just makes them more obvious.

As for color settings, different strokes for different folks. We all have individual comfort zones. I started out using cinema mode and set the brightness and contrast as best I could using DVE and Avia. I also saw some variations in red and green when using blue as a reference.

Because I'm using DVI for cable and HDMI for DVD, I don't have a tint control. I tried playing around with the MCC settings without much success.

Finally I wound up using a variation on the "steaming rat" method, setting the color level until flesh tones looked realistic.

Each set, input and source is going to be different, along with the eyes watching them and the ambient light in the room. For me, an acceptable compromise was:

Cinema mode
Contrast 70
Brightness 55
Color 45

Your Mileage May Vary.

Originally posted by magaggie
We'd all assumed that the guts were the same, just a logo change -- but do we have confirmation of that?
Your speculation is the most recent in a long long long line of Faroudja speculations going back to the moment Samsung first put the Faroudja chip into all their DLP sets.

If you want to confirm for yourself just go into the service menu and you will see that one of the options is FLI2310 which is the Faroudja chip.

If you don't want to enter your SM here is a picture of the main menu on an HLP set. Maybe you could also enlist others to check their HLP SM options. :D

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that I am passing on the wisdom of others and that I have no personal knowledge of the Samsung DLP TVs. I'm still waiting.

On the other hand I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making changes.

****** Thanks to LCH for a clearer explanation than the one I wrote. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Thanks ht, witt...

I still feel that it makes no sense that RCA / S-Video should incur such a processing delay. I read the one article and I've seen the processing delays on LCDs next to CRTs, etc., but I have to believe that the S-video on the HLP is worse than most of those, it's enough to irritate me, and that's unacceptable... why should 480i component be so much easier to convert to 720p than 480i over S-video?

Especially since the pass-thru audio is not delayed the way the TV's internal audio appears to be... otherwise I'd just route tivo audio through the TV...

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
I was surprised when I first turned on the Sammy. There was waaaaay too much color saturation. Very unnatural. What I'm getting at the Cool 2 setting should, IMHO, be the standard configuration. I'm glad I will be having a technician in to calibrate. Waiting until Sept. when, I hope, my 941 will have arrived from the power buy.
I am glad I am not the only one seeing this. I have read way too many "The picture is superb" posts in the PB thread. Right now I am a little disheartened. I am sure some is just finding the right set of adjustments. I have done some adjustments using the DVE disk, but I am not happy yet. Audio sync is driving me crazy. I expected to see great OTA HD reception. Motion just does not look as good as I thought. I am not sure if it is the compression in the source or what. I am seeing what I would characterize as jerkiness. I am wondering if the HD TIVO is partially to blame. I don't have any other HD receiver to do an A/B comparison. Has anybody else done this and formed an opinion?

Regarding motion not being smooth, I noticed on an HBO HD broadcast of Daredevil that the MARVEL teaser in the beginning got super blocky, and it really freaked me out. Also saw it in a Discovery HD teaser playing in a loop at Good Guys...

Then I popped X2 in to the DVD player and watched the MARVEL teaser there, no blockiness... so I'm not sure that HD OTA or via directv or whatever is a very reliable indicator.

Originally posted by dwduck
Got a couple of weeks of viewing in on the HLP4663W and figured I would share some more.

Also on cooling and heat issues, I have my 46 in a family room in wall nook whatever you call it thing. It is 43 wide, 40 tall, and about 40 deep; so the TV has to sit with the screen overlapping the sides (looks very plasma like; even my wife's friends have commented the TV looks really cool!)

At what height is this television from the floor and how is the viewing at that angle?

I am thinking about getting the HLP5063W to place in the cut out above our fireplace in the family room. Some people have said that it may be too high for viewing from seated position. I am talking 4 and 1/2 feet to 5 feet from the floor to the bottom of the cut out.

Got my Samsung HLN5065 in November 2003.

Began seeing problems with (1) muddy low-contrast low-light level scenes (2) Internal Reflection problems, and (3) AV sync problems. After reading various AVS Forum threads I realized I wasn't imagining things; other people were reporting similar problems.

Over period of several months I spoke with 1-800-SAMSUNG, 1-800-747-5618 (Digital Service) and 1-800-634-8276 (Samsung Parts) and had 4 or 5 visits from Samsung-contracted TV repairmen. The light engine was replaced with no improvement on PQ, then had lens-only replaced with the so-called E10 lens which was supposed to fix the IR problem. TV repairmen said they couldn't address the AV sync issue. PQ problems still existed as seen by both the TV repairman and myself.

Samsung & BB agreed to take back my HLN5065 and give me an exchange.



Got my HLP5063 June 25, 2004.


I've got my 5063 set up as follows:

Comcast Motorola 6200 outputs 720P/840P to DVI.
Replay outputs to component
Sammy 931 DVD outputs to HDMI (DVI>HDMI cable)

Saturday Jul 03 - I went to switch from (a) SDTV via DVI to (b) Replay via component. The screen locked up on the SDTV signal, but with the colors a "solarized, high-contrast infrared photography-looking" image. The 5063 would not switch to any of the other inputs. Had to unplug power to correct the problem. This occurred twice that evening, but not since.[/B]

Thurday Jul 08 - The new problem is the dreaded 3-flashing lights. I've got a call into Sammy's Digital Service Dept currently. On the lighter, ironic side, the CSR at 1-800-SAMSUNG had difficulty setting up my case file. He said, "I'm having difficulty getting the system to accept the model number; they don't tell us where to put the hyphens in the product code."

Saturday Jul 10 Update - Four calls in to Digital Service Dept (800-747-5618) two on Thursday, one on Friday, one this morning: each time I've been told that Samsung has forwarded an on-site repair request to a local Samsung technician "who's very good at contacting customers promptly". Needless to say "Speedy" hasn't contacted me yet to set up an appointment.

So, bottom line: Had 4 months of on-going unresolved problems with the HLN and the two-week-old HLP is down for the count.

Tuesday Jul 13 Update - Got a voicemail from the local Samsung-authorized service technician via his cellphone. The entire message is as follows: "Call me on my cellphone to set up an appointment; my phone number is [end of message]". Seems like he went thru the loss-of-cell-signal tunnel at just the right critical moment, so I'm hoping to guess his phone number telepathically.

Thurday Jul 15 Update - Called Samsung Wednesday and today. After 7 phone calls during the past 8 days I still have not been contacted by the service technician to set up an appointment to inspect/repair the 5063.

Friday Jul 16 Update - Called 1-800-747-5618, waited in the queue for 20 minutes and finally spoke with yet another Samsung Digital Service Coordinator named Mike, who promised to stay on top of my problem all day until it was resolved. Did not hear back from him.

Monday Jul 19 Update - Called 1-800-747-5618, waited in the queue for 15 minutes, then got DSCoord. Brian online. I asked to speak with Mike. Was told Mike was not there. Asked to speak to Caroline Segura, the department manager. She was "not available". Brian said that another supervisor said they could issue an RMA and have BB exchange the set. I said that (a) I hadn't run out BB's 30-day return policy but (b) BB had no HLP5063s in their warehouse and were not expecting a shipment until some time in August. Brian said he'd check into the matter further. Never heard from Brian again.

Tuesday Jul 20 Update - Finally got a call from the Samsung Field Service Engineer - he said he couldn't fix my problem because Samsung didn't have any HLP replacement lamps/ballast at their parts warehouse.

I contacted the Samsung Parts warehouse and spoke to a CSR who said they were expecting replacement lamps/ballast for the HLP5063s "today or tomorrow". I called the FSE and told him what I learned from the Sammy parts warehouse and gave both parties each others direct phone numbers.

Thursday Jul 22 Update - The Samsung Field Service Engineer called, said he was told by Samsung that my TV's serial number indicated it needed only the lamp and not the ballast. He received the lamp assembly today, and arranged to come install it in an hour. Really nice helpful, knowledgeable guy. Installed new lamp, reconnected power, and....
STILL NO PICTURE!!!.

Friday Jul 23 Update - The Samsung Field Service Engineer called today at 2pm - he had just received the ballast via FedEx. Again was here in an hour. Installed new ballast, reconnected power, and....
STILL NO PICTURE!!!..

He said that he'd submit his installation report to Samsung and see whether they would send a light engine assembly or a whole new TV.

Saturday Jul 24 Update - Went to BB to see whether any HLP5063 had arrived yet. No luck. Still claiming an early August delivery date.

Observation regarding the Samsung Digital Service Coordinator Department: Not once during this entire month of July has any DSC ever called me back to provide any sort of update/status.

Sigh......been reading all the posts onthe HLP threads regarding no picture.
My 5063 was delivered Friday. Fingers crossed.
Yesterday, Sunday, picture wouldn't come on. Unplugged the set. 8 hours later tried again, picture came on.
Turned on set today, no problem. Turned it off later. Turned it back on about an hour later. No picture. Two flashing lights...not 3. Left and right lights blinking. Manual says it's a fan problem.
Called TVA. They gave me the Samsung number.
Called Samsung. They created a case file and said they'd fax the report over to the repair people and I should call them for an appt. in 10 minutes.
Called them and got an appt. for Thurs.

Those of you who got light/ballast replaced: Have you had any problems since?
Also: should I be able to HEAR the fan? Couldn't hear a fan from the beginning.

Originally posted by CraigSharrow
Comcast Motorola 6200 outputs 720P/840P to DVI.

I really really think there is a movie in your story. :rolleyes:

I would try the refund and new store route if that's possible. If you stay with it, waiting for a new set in August may be the best choice.

Can you tell me what the "840p" is referring to?

My deepest condolences. :)

Originally posted by CraigSharrow
Got my Samsung HLN5065 in November 2003.

Began seeing problems with (1) muddy low-contrast low-light level scenesHas a fix for this ever been discovered? This is my #1 complaint with my set. I've got a tech. coming Wednesday and hope he'll be able to help, though I doubt it. I'm lucky in that my set turns on and works fine, but my PQ has some issues. As well as the smear thing. Samsung digital team said fix will involve removing the various screens to locate the problem.

After hearing about all these HLP problems I am having second thoughts about committing to TVA PB with the HLP 6163, maybe I ought to look more into the Mits 62" or the Tosh 62" only problem is they don't have 2 HDMI or 2 DVI inputs. I wonder if I would lose a lot of PQ using component with my Dish HD811 receiver. How could two major players in the HDTV world not include 2 inputs HDMI or DVI. Is there anything out there with 2 of these inputs outside of Samsung.

Joe V.

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny

Those of you who got light/ballast replaced: Have you had any problems since?
Also: should I be able to HEAR the fan? Couldn't hear a fan from the beginning.

Just got it replaced today... will report back after i have had chance to see if it works, but so far so good (i am watching HD for the first time in a week)

jwv651,


There isn't a perfect set. Anyway, why do you need 2 DVI/HDMI, how many sources do you have that would require you need more than one DVI/HDMI ? Have you thought about switcher?

Originally posted by Auditor55
jwv651,


There isn't a perfect set. Anyway, why do you need 2 DVI/HDMI, how many sources do you have that would require you need more than one DVI/HDMI ? Have you thought about switcher?

I want to hook up my Dish HD811 by DVI and soon to be Samsung HD-941 HDMI.

Joe V.

I have an HLP 5063 and generally love it (although it has been doing some video dropouts on XBox connected to component #1) but have one usability complaint/question. When using the input selection button on the remote, the tv cycles through all inputs for devices which are currently attached, even if those devices are powered off. This is especially annoying for the live antenna channel, because I have no antenna (using STB through component 2) and yet it always cycles through an input of blue screen. Given that I have XBox, PS2, tivo, LD player and STB connected, this means I am cycling through at least a few of 6 things when I just want to go from XBox input to tivo input.

Is there any way to get the set to only cycle through inputs which currently have a live signal? And is there any way to get it to forever ignore the antenna input? Any info/ideas would be appreciated.

Originally posted by RickDias
I have an HLP 5063 and generally love it (although it has been doing some video dropouts on XBox connected to component #1) but have one usability complaint/question. When using the input selection button on the remote, the tv cycles through all inputs for devices which are currently attached, even if those devices are powered off. This is especially annoying for the live antenna channel, because I have no antenna (using STB through component 2) and yet it always cycles through an input of blue screen. Given that I have XBox, PS2, tivo, LD player and STB connected, this means I am cycling through at least a few of 6 things when I just want to go from XBox input to tivo input.

Is there any way to get the set to only cycle through inputs which currently have a live signal? And is there any way to get it to forever ignore the antenna input? Any info/ideas would be appreciated. I'm not glad that you've got a problem, but I'm relieved someone else also is getting dropouts with their component inputs with the XBOX.

I believe with the proper remote there are ways to go directly to your preferred input using discrete codes. I use the Harmony SST-659, and it goes directly to my chosen input. I believe the Pronto remotes also have this feature.

What liquid and/or cloth are you using to clean your DLP screens of dust and fingerprints?

Is this merely another overpriced product? Monster iClean Screen Cleaner (http://www.monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=2105)

A salesperson at Magnolia Audio Video suggested the use of distilled water and a soft, cotton rag.

(This was discussed sometime in 2003 under an HLM/HLN thread but I couldn't find it.)

I use a microfiber cloth. What you want is something soft with absolutely no coarseness. If you can see individual lines of thread or fabrib, don't use it.

Originally posted by ngutierrez
What liquid and/or cloth are you using to clean your DLP screens of dust and fingerprints?

Is this merely another overpriced product? Monster iClean Screen Cleaner (http://www.monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=2105)

A salesperson at Magnolia Audio Video suggested the use of distilled water and a soft, cotton rag.

(This was discussed sometime in 2003 under an HLM/HLN thread but I couldn't find it.)

You probably would be better off using a microfiber cloth as suggested.
Get one that is used to clean plastic lenses. You can pick on up at an optical shop that sell plastic or cr39 lenses for glasses. Oakley makes a microfiber bag for their glasses that would work for around $10. If you have a fine mist sprayer use that to spray the screen with distilled water.
I wouldn't necessarily wipe the screen dry because it could cause fine scratches from the dust.
This the method used in the optical industry to clean lenses.

just got my HLP 56" - have hooked up DVD, DTV Tivo, VCR (both video connections and audio connections) to the appropriate inputs on the HLP.

I need to hook up my stereo receiver for surround sound. In my previous setup, the TV had an "audio out" (so sound is fed into TV, tv speaker is muted, and sound is output to surround sound receiver).

I note that the HLP has one audio/video out ... but the manual says something about in only operating in certain "modes". Should I hookup my receiver to the audio portion of these jacks, or is there a better way? many thanks.

Djinn

Originally posted by Resident Djinn
just got my HLP 56" - have hooked up DVD, DTV Tivo, VCR (both video connections and audio connections) to the appropriate inputs on the HLP.

I need to hook up my stereo receiver for surround sound. In my previous setup, the TV had an "audio out" (so sound is fed into TV, tv speaker is muted, and sound is output to surround sound receiver).

I note that the HLP has one audio/video out ... but the manual says something about in only operating in certain "modes". Should I hookup my receiver to the audio portion of these jacks, or is there a better way? many thanks.

Djinn

I just got done hooking up my 56" and I ran all audio from each device to the receiver. For example:

Pioneer hd cable box coax digital audio out goes directly to my digital coax input on the receiver, analog audio outputs on the cable box go to my analog inputs on the receiver (This is because some cable stations are still analog audio).

Xbox with the Hd kit I have the optical audio cable going to optical input 1 on the receiver.

DVD HD 841 digital optical audio output directly to optical input 2 on the receiver.

I dont see any reason to run any audio to the TV, currently my TV only has two things plugged in, DVI input and Component 1.

hope this helps.

Thanks Acrophet - follow-up question - does your audio receiver automatically switch to whatever audio is "live", or do you have to scroll through your audio inputs to get to the correct one? (If my wife has to scroll through the video inputs on the TV, then also has to scroll thru the audio inputs on the receiver, then sees our Visa bill, it's doghouse city :eek:

Anyone else out there understand the "audio out" connections on the HLP and how they work?

Tx.

Djinn

Originally posted by Resident Djinn

Anyone else out there understand the "audio out" connections on the HLP and how they work?

Tx.

Djinn

Audio out on the HLP is always switched to the selected input you are watching. You must turn the internal speakers off using the internal mute setting (which is a pain if you switch back and forth alot).

As with the internal speakers, sound thru the HLP audio output is usually delayed appropriately to sync with the picture. This is great, but only needed occasionally and the downside is you lose some of the surround sound quality compared to direct connection of your amplifier to the source.

Originally posted by Resident Djinn
Thanks Acrophet - follow-up question - does your audio receiver automatically switch to whatever audio is "live", or do you have to scroll through your audio inputs to get to the correct one? (If my wife has to scroll through the video inputs on the TV, then also has to scroll thru the audio inputs on the receiver, then sees our Visa bill, it's doghouse city :eek:

Anyone else out there understand the "audio out" connections on the HLP and how they work?

Tx.

Djinn

I'm planning on solving this issue with a fancy remote. Currently using a Sony Av2500, but that's going back so I can try the harmony 688.

thank you both. so it "sounds" like I can use audio out, but may to have to manually mute Samsung speaker when changing inputs?

We talk alot about PQ quality but not sounds. Is there a true decrement in sound quality if I connect DirecTivo to Samsung out to reciever (muting internal speaker) versus Directivo to receiver (bypass Samsung)?

Inquiring minds want to know :D

What does the Harmony 688 allow that is so good? Need to run a DirecTv Tivo unit, the samsung, a sony dvd and a sony receiver. Does it allow special macro functions??

Djinn

Originally posted by Resident Djinn
thank you both. so it "sounds" like I can use audio out, but may to have to manually mute Samsung speaker when changing inputs?

We talk alot about PQ quality but not sounds. Is there a true decrement in sound quality if I connect DirecTivo to Samsung out to reciever (muting internal speaker) versus Directivo to receiver (bypass Samsung)?

Inquiring minds want to know :D

What does the Harmony 688 allow that is so good? Need to run a DirecTv Tivo unit, the samsung, a sony dvd and a sony receiver. Does it allow special macro functions??

Djinn

If you have a DirectTivo and an A/V receiver, you should definitely run the sound directly to the receiver. The Tivo has an optical digital audio output which allows you to listen to Dolby Digital 5.1 through your receiver (on HBO, Starz and HD channels) - you cannot do this if you run the sound through the Sammy.

Universal remotes like the Harmony allow you to control all of your components and provide macro functionality so you can switch the receiver and the TV to the appropriate input with the push of a button. Not that familiar with the Harmony but you program it via your computer and it's supposed to be really easy to use. I have an MX-500 which is a little harder to program but is completely customizable and I love it.

I haven't used the 688 yet, but with the Sony I'm testing I can create macros, for instance when I hit my 'DVD' macro, it switches the TV to component 1, turns on the DVD player, changes the audio input on the receiver to 'DVD'.

Using the TV Macro it switches the TV to DVI and changes the receiver to my TV audio.

I'm still testing this, but I'm in the same situation where I need the wife and kids to be able to operate everything. I never thought about the audio out on the TV and also curious on how that works.

Originally posted by Resident Djinn
thank you both. so it "sounds" like I can use audio out, but may to have to manually mute Samsung speaker when changing inputs?


You can mute from the remote control using the mute button BUT it leaves a little sign on the picture stating "mute". So instead you need to go into the menu, go select sound, select "internal mute", select on. Inconvenient.....

I finally got my Samsung HLP5663W through the TVA powerbuy. Unfortunately it is defective. As soon as I turned it on the picture was messed up. All colors that should be deep black are bright red. Then it developed static vertical lines. It will play normally for a few minutes then screw up. TVA said they will replace the set but it is backordered and they recommended I have Samsung look at it in the meantime. Here is a pic.

I just had the technician out. When I told him about the video drop-outs on Component input he said there was some information in the office about this happening with the new sets. So I guess this may be a known problem. He thought that the fix involved changing a couple of boards, but wasn't sure. So RickDias and others havingthis problem, apparently this is something Samsung knows about.

He also ordered new screens to fix smudges. No a/v sync issues for me so nothing needed there. One thing that was a little annoying was that he was just sort of doing diagnostic work. I was showing him how off the horizontal scroll was and how when letterboxed the screen looked slanted down from left to right. He said "yeah I see it" but didn't fix anything. I guess maybe he didn't want to mess with it since he'd be changing the boards and screens in a couple of weeks.

I saw a smudge about the size of a lemon on a HLP5085 yesterday. It's the first one I've noticed.

Originally posted by RickDias

Is there any way to get the set to only cycle through inputs which currently have a live signal? And is there any way to get it to forever ignore the antenna input? Any info/ideas would be appreciated.

I would also be interested in a way to shut off the antenna input permanently, I have not been able to do so. Only the other 'active' inputs show up for me, but I can't get rid of the antenna.

Lee

Originally posted by LeeG23
I would also be interested in a way to shut off the antenna input permanently, I have not been able to do so. Only the other 'active' inputs show up for me, but I can't get rid of the antenna.

Lee

Just a thought, how about deleting all channels?

No, as I am typing I think that will not work because it will revert to last channel used.....worth a try though.

Maybe a Service Menu operation could do it?

Originally posted by htwaits
I saw a smudge about the size of a lemon on a HLP5085 yesterday. It's the first one I've noticed.

I saw one, mine was about lime sized!:)

I saw it one day last week, went away, then saw it again (same spot) yesterday.

I will just leave it alone unless it becomes more pronounced.

I have the new HLP 56". I have connected my Hughes 10-250 DVR via HDMI to the Samsung HDMI input. Since they call this a multimedia input, I thought it would also carry the sound, but it does not. I have tried different sound settings on the Sammy. Suggestions?

Originally posted by DanPackMan
Just a thought, how about deleting all channels?

No, as I am typing I think that will not work because it will revert to last channel used.....worth a try though.



I do not have anything connected to either of my ANT-In inputs and as a result the "Channel" (I think that's what it's called) section of the main menu on the HLP is grayed out - I cannot access any of the options/features. However, the ANT inputs are still included when I cycle through video inputs. I don't ever really do this (have my MX-500 set up with discrete codes) but thought it would be helpful.

Originally posted by dorran
I have the new HLP 56". I have connected my Hughes 10-250 DVR via HDMI to the Samsung HDMI input. Since they call this a multimedia input, I thought it would also carry the sound, but it does not. I have tried different sound settings on the Sammy. Suggestions?
Maybe the Hughes needs a firmware upgrade to activate HDMI sound output. I'm just guessing. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by DanPackMan
... This is great, but only needed occasionally and the downside is you lose some of the surround sound quality compared to direct connection of your amplifier to the source.

Some? Some??

What about someone who's also spent a fair amount of cash on a 6.1 system that can only make use of those channels when it's fed a digital signal? Samsung's vid-delay "fix" of delaying the sound passed through the tv is just embarassing.

I know, I know... and I am, so not to worry. But it just cheeses me to no end that a high-end consumer tv product in its 3rd generation would still have this issue period, let alone that their "fix" alienates people who've complemented this tv with a theater quality audio system.

Originally posted by magaggie
What about someone who's also spent a fair amount of cash on a 6.1 system that can only make use of those channels when it's fed a digital signal? Samsung's vid-delay "fix" of delaying the sound passed through the tv is just embarassing.
[/B]

This is not a Samsung only problem. Whenever you run thru a seperate amplifier/receiver you can encounter this problem. So much so that most new generations of receivers/amplifiers have added a sound delay option that allows you to set the amount of delay necessary to synch your audio with your video. I know highend Yamahas have had this feature for years, but they have just recently introduced it on their entire line.

Unfortunately mine doesn't have it.... Always something else to buy...

Originally posted by dorran
I have the new HLP 56". I have connected my Hughes 10-250 DVR via HDMI to the Samsung HDMI input. Since they call this a multimedia input, I thought it would also carry the sound, but it does not. I have tried different sound settings on the Sammy. Suggestions?

I also have a HD10-250 hooked up via HDMI to my HLP5063. Although I do not use the TV speakers I wanted to see how they sounded and thats when I noticed that 5.1 audio on the HD channels will not pass thru the HDMI when 5.1 optical is selected in the 10-250's audio menu. Audio seemed to still come thru on the SD channels. The only way I could get audio for the HD channels thru the HDMI was to select the 2 channel option in the 10-250's menu. Seems like an issue with the HD10-250 rather than the TV. Maybe this will be fixed in an update.

Originally posted by Panic 66
I also have a HD10-250 hooked up via HDMI to my HLP5063. Although I do not use the TV speakers I wanted to see how they sounded and thats when I noticed that 5.1 audio on the HD channels will not pass thru the HDMI when 5.1 optical is selected in the 10-250's audio menu. Audio seemed to still come thru on the SD channels. The only way I could get audio for the HD channels thru the HDMI was to select the 2 channel option in the 10-250's menu. Seems like an issue with the HD10-250 rather than the TV. Maybe this will be fixed in an update.

That's b/c the Samsung only has 2 channels of sound built in. Also why the audio out is simply a 2 channel (left and right) output. You would need an optical or coaxial digital audio out on the Samsung which you could then pass to a receiver to get true DD 5.1 - either that or the samsung would need 3 additional speakers and a subwoofer :)

I see what your saying Eric but I just figured the Samsung would have a way to convert a 5.1 signal to a 2 channel signal. Since I only use the optical out to my receiver its no big deal but I could see some people wanting to use both options without having to dig into the menu each time.

Can anyone who has gotten their HLP post a picture of the backside of it showing all the connections? Mine's on order and I'm trying to figure out how everything hooks up. It would be a great visual aid to have a pic.

I've seen the pic in Samsung's tech sheet, but it's pretty crappy rez. I suppose I could live with it if I don't get a response.

My particular problem relates to connecting my components: HLP5063, Bose Lifestyle 35, Cox HD STB, XBox, PS2, Gamecube. The video out capabilities of the Bose is S-video at best, so I'm also ordering a Sammy 941 DVD player and will have Cox HD service installed once I get the set (only component out at the moment, blah). Those will go directly to the TV and I'll figure out how to route the audio to the Bose. The audio out on the 5063 is limited to analog so I'm going to have to run each component's audio to the Bose separately to get digital. :(

Then comes figuring out how to get the PS2, Gamecube and XBox into the loop. Whew. Currently, I have them on a composite switchbox using standard rca cables and will likely keep the ps2 and GC there and move the XBox to a component input on the 5063 and coax digital audio input on the Bose.

Am I thinking clearly here?

Update on my 5063 (delivered Friday, picture died several days later, picture revived the next day after I'd unplugged the set and left it that way over night).

No matter what I did the picture wouldn't die again. A little nervous that the technician would say there's no problem and leave.
Tech came today. I gave him the time line of the events. I mentioned that I'd read that a lot of sets need the ballast replaced. He agreed. Didn't seem concerned that the set was working. He took off the back, took out the ballast, put a new one in and was finished in less than 10 minutes. ( It took longer to take the screws out of the rear case than to change the ballast.) He said that they had improved the ballast. I asked him if he serviced other manufacturers and he said no, that he was an employee of Samsung and that he services only Samsung. He also pointed out something I should do to get a better picture.
It was clear to me that Samsung has the word out to its people.
I'm impressed. Picture's great.

jbarbbcuny
He also pointed out something I should do to get a better picture.

Okay don't leave us in the dark with this one, what did he say?

Joe V.

just got an hlp-5063. std tv looks so-so, hdtv looks great w/
sa8000 box w/ component out...wanted to ask if anyone has
heard a beep high pitched noise coming from the tv. if
this common?

Originally posted by Pahonix
Can anyone who has gotten their HLP post a picture of the backside of it showing all the connections? Mine's on order and I'm trying to figure out how everything hooks up. It would be a great visual aid to have a pic.



Attached Zip File is back panel connections from manual

1 ANTENNA terminals
Two independent cables or antennas can be connected to these terminals.
Use “ANT 1 IN” and “ANT 2 IN” terminals to receive a signal from
VHF/UHF antennas or your cable system. Use the “ANT 1 OUT” terminal to
send the signal being received by the “ANT 1 IN” terminal out to another
component (such as a Cable Set-Top Box). The PIP channel can be received
only when a signal source is connected to “ANT 1 IN”.

2 S-VIDEO INPUT jacks
Connects an S-Video signal from an S-VHS VCR or DVD player.

3 VIDEO/AUDIO INPUT jacks (VCR1, VCR2)
Connect video/audio signals from external sources, such as a VCR or DVD
players.

4 VIDEO/AUDIO OUTPUT jacks
Sends a video signal from the TV to an external source, such as a VCR.
Note: It is available only in RF, Video and S-Video modes.

5 Component1, 2 jacks (Y, PB, PR, L, R)
Use these jacks to connect the component video/audio signals from a DVD
player or a set top box when using the component video input jacks.

6 PC AUDIO INPUT jacks
Connect these to the audio output jacks on your PC.

7 PC VIDEO INPUT jack
Connect these to the video output jack on your PC .

8 DVI (Digital Video Interface) AUDIO INPUT jacks
Connect to the digital audio output jacks for device with DVI output.

9 DVI (Digital Video Interface) VIDEO INPUT jack
Connect to the digital video output jack for device with DVI output.

10 HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface)
VIDEO/AUDIO INPUT jack
Connect to the HDMI jack for device with HDMI output.

11 SERVICE
This jack is for repair and software upgrades.

Originally posted by jwv651
jbarbbcuny
He also pointed out something I should do to get a better picture.

Okay don't leave us in the dark with this one, what did he say?

Joe V.

I had set the TV to TV in instead of DVI in. He showed me how to do a quick change to DVI in by pressing the button on the remote labeled "TV/Video". Since making the change the picture is GREAT. Also the problems I'd been having with too much color saturation went away. Faces now look very normal. Probably everyone already knows this but I've just had the tV and new cable box for a few days and have been fiddling with every possible adjustment but hadn't gotten to this one. Someone who posted in this thread or another one was correct in stating that manual is "thin." It names the buttons but doesn't explain in detail why one should do this or that. Meanwhile the cable installer had called in to his spvr while at my apt. and spvr got me on the phone and told me that altho the cable box had a DVI jack that it wasn't operational. After the cable guy left I got out my own DVI cable and hooked it up and the jack IS operational. But I was left to figure out the rest for myself.

I know different people get different results with Samsung service but for the most part it seems as though they are really trying to be cooperative and get things fixed for the folks who have bought their sets. Hopefully the great service that jbarbbcuny received will become widespread.

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
I had set the TV to TV in instead of DVI in. He showed me how to do a quick change to DVI in by pressing the button on the remote labeled "TV/Video".

Don't really understand what you mean by setting the TV to "TV" - what is "TV"? Do you mean the ANT 1 input?

Can you please explain this procedure a little bit further - very curious.

Thanks.

Originally posted by EricScott
Don't really understand what you mean by setting the TV to "TV" - what is "TV"? Do you mean the ANT 1 input?
Can you please explain this procedure a little bit further - very curious.
Thanks.

I said "TV in" .... whether that helps. If you go to page 41 in the manual, titled "viewing an external signal source" it shows a picture of the screen that comes up through the menu system (menu > input > source list) that lists souces of video. The first choice is TV which I had selected when I first set up the set because I had no HD source and couldn't think of anything else. (I finally got an HD box but since the TV was not working never changed the souce.) Anyway if you scroll down to the choice that says "'More " you will get a DVI choice....but only if DVI is actually connected (I think...can't check....TV fixed yesterday, dead today, but that's another story).

OR
........on the remote press the button on the right middle that says "tV/Video" and press again and again until you cycle through the choices and get to DVI. This is described toward the bottom of p. 41 under "alternate method".

So are you saying you were running the signal from your cable box to the ANT1 input on the TV via a coax cable and then tuning your HLP to channel 3?

So you went from that arrangement to DVI? I would imagine the phrase "night and day" has new meaning for you.

BTW... please tell me you did not get your 5063 thru the TVA powerbuy.

Originally posted by JoeSchueller
So are you saying you were running the signal from your cable box to the ANT1 input on the TV via a coax cable and then tuning your HLP to channel 3?

So you went from that arrangement to DVI? I would imagine the phrase "night and day" has new meaning for you.

BTW... please tell me you did not get your 5063 thru the TVA powerbuy.

Was running component to TV turned to channel 3.
I'm now running a DVI cable from the cable box to the DVI port on the sammy. And the set is tuned to channel 3.
Yes...night and day......ordinary to heaven.....worry to bliss. ;)
Except that......set is dead again today. Worry again but not over PQ. Just P.

I DID get the 5063 through TVA powerbuy.

Originally posted by dholi
just got an hlp-5063. std tv looks so-so, hdtv looks great w/
sa8000 box w/ component out...wanted to ask if anyone has
heard a beep high pitched noise coming from the tv. if
this common?

You need to be more specific regarding the high pitched noise. I've posted on this before but recall only one other person possibly having the same symptom my 50" has. Specifically, there is a high pitched whine that starts exactly when the picture appears (not when you hit the power button) and it goes away completely after about five minutes. I had a service tech out because of my three flashing lights (which fixed itself by unplugging before the tech came out) and he initially thought it was the color wheel but then seemed to change his mind. He left not knowing exactly what it was. He was supposed to contact Samsung and see what they thought while he was awaiting receiving a ballast to replace mine as a precautionary measure. He won't be coming back (at least for this set) since I'm in the process of upgrading to a 56" set.

So, I'm curious how many have this high pitched whine and what is causing it.

i have not been able to duplicate the problem. it happens
every once in awhile while watching tv...not just during the
first few minutes or so

Just picked up my HLP4663W from CC last night. No hi-def picture until Monday when Cablevision delivers a HD box. Right now, everything -cable box and DVD - conencted through coaxial cable. TV performing excellent so far. No A/V sync problems, no shadows or rainbows.....

Only issue is that I tried 'Finding Nemo' DVD using the component video connection and the whole picture was coming out in red color. This was not the case when the DVD was connected to the TV via coaxial cable. I double-checked the connections to make sure the R-G-B cables were correctly set. Anybody can think why I'm having the 'red' color problem from this DVD connection? Any recommended solution?

Originally posted by lehmansh
Anybody can think why I'm having the 'red' color problem from this DVD connection? Any recommended solution?
The most likely explanation is that you have the component cables in the wrong holes either at the DVD player or the TV. The cables should be color coded so that the "red" cable is plugged into the "red" connector on the TV and the DVD player. In dim light it's very easy to mix up the "blue" and "green" connectors. I also noticed that the component cables provided by my cable company did not make a very solid connection. When I removed them it took no force a all to get them out. It's possible one of your connections is not solid.

Are you saying that "Nemo" is red or that it seems that the reds are exaggerated?

htwaits -thanks for responding.

The colors were properly connected so that's why I'm scratching my head on this one. I just bought these cables so I'll see if they are defective. I was trying to see if needed to make other adjustments on the TV when you connect a DVD player via component cables in order to get the colors of the film right.

Originally posted by lehmansh
Just picked up my HLP4663W from CC last night. No hi-def picture until Monday when Cablevision delivers a HD box. Right now, everything -cable box and DVD - conencted through coaxial cable. TV performing excellent so far. No A/V sync problems, no shadows or rainbows.....

Only issue is that I tried 'Finding Nemo' DVD using the component video connection and the whole picture was coming out in red color. This was not the case when the DVD was connected to the TV via coaxial cable. I double-checked the connections to make sure the R-G-B cables were correctly set. Anybody can think why I'm having the 'red' color problem from this DVD connection? Any recommended solution?

I once installed a DVD player for my Mother in law, and it worked fine over coax and S-Video, but was blue using component. It was a defective player, don't remember the brand, but it was a low cost one.

Anyhow, if its not your cables, you probably have a defective RGB circuit in your player. Since you are going red, it might mean your blue and/or green is defective. Try removing/replacing blue and see if that makes a difference. Then take a working one (red ) and try it in the blue with the others disconnected to see if the blue input is working. Try again with the green input.

This should help you ID the root cause.

If your cables are OK then I think DanPackMan is on the right track. Maybe it's time for an up-scaling DVD player with DVI output.

have a 5063w

xbox via component (HD pack) showing a slight video delay

random? audio sync problems in dvd and cable (both component).

samsung guy said both problems are interrelated and sending a tech to change some settings.

haven't heard anyone in this thread say this was fixable by tweaking.

any thoughts? thanks in advance.

Sorry if this has been posted already.

I was playing in the user menu under the Picture - MCC settings and also under Setup - Color Weakness. I never touched the normal settings (i.e. Brightness, Color etc). When I was done 'testing' the MCC and Color Weakness settings (I had messed with them a lot), I put them back where they were (off for Color Weakness and Standard for MCC). However, everything was still way off from how I originally had it (i.e. picture was way too dark and over saturated). After doing a reset on the standard settings and then putting them back where they were, all was well again. So it would seem that once you make changes to the MCC or Color Weakness, even if you put them back where they were, something stays different. Anyone want to try and confirm this?

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
Was running component to TV turned to channel 3.
I'm now running a DVI cable from the cable box to the DVI port on the sammy. And the set is tuned to channel 3.
Yes...night and day......ordinary to heaven.....worry to bliss. ;)
Except that......set is dead again today. Worry again but not over PQ. Just P.

I DID get the 5063 through TVA powerbuy.

I guess I am really dense here but why does it matter what channel you have your TV tuned to if you are watching DVI?

Also, I thought you said previously you just had the TV connected via coax out of the wall but above you say you were using Component? Component from what? Your cable box?

Just really confused here. Sorry if I am just being dense.

I don't think you're being dense at all, I still haven't figured this one out. I think he has his HLP hooked up like an old VCR with coax going into the antenna input. Seems to explain the statement:
The first choice is TV which I had selected...
We may have some confusion about coax (screw connector cable typically used to carry cable signals) and composite (RCA connector typically used for analog A/V hookups) connections.

Originally posted by JoeSchueller
I don't think you're being dense at all, I still haven't figured this one out. I think he has his HLP hooked up like an old VCR with coax going into the antenna input. Seems to explain the statement:

We may have some confusion about coax (screw connector cable typically used to carry cable signals) and composite (RCA connector typically used for analog A/V hookups) connections.

OK...it happened in stages.
Stge 1: Set arrived. Only had standard box. Started with coax...as you describe.... Colors terrible. Picture not sharp enough.

Stage 2: 3 days later HD cable box arrived. They claimed I couldn't use DVI and they set up the HD with component. Also, set didn't work. In fact they didn't want to leave the new box at all and wanted to wait until I had a working set. I convinced the cable guy I really wanted him to leave the new box...he called his spvr to get permission to leave the box. Spvr was very emphatic that DVI was not active.
Cable guy left. Meanwhile the set came on later in day. So here I had a cable box attached with component cables but since the set hadn't been working the cable guy hadn't configured anything. Picture better but not significantly. Color still a probem but not horrible. Cable guy had refused to leave a manual. Said there was no difference in the SA 4200 box from the old SA box I was using. Went to the internet and printed out a manual of sorts. But still hadn't figured out every adjustment I needed to make. Imput still set to TV imput....don't ask....just overlooked it...

Stage 3: I'm looking at the picture the next day and saying "what the hell" I'll just try the DVI. Attached DVI cable which I had bought a few weeks before. Looked a little better. But I hand't put it all together in terms of changing the setting to DVI imput. Color still oversaturated but less so.

Stage 4: Samsung tech arrives and changes the ballast. Mentions in passing I'd have a better pictlure if I set it to DVI as incoming signal (page 41 manual). I did...it was. Color great. Picture sharper. Bravo HD awesome. Now I know why I need an HD TV.

I had previously posted about using the "audio out" on the Sammy, and running cables from that output to my receiver. Worked fine. A number of you felt strongly that a direct run from my components to the receiver would give better sound. I do believe you, but perhaps moreso if you have digital input on the receiver (which I don't).

Anywho, I connected all components individually to the receiver and what I got was .....

THE MOST HORRENDOUS AUDIO LIP SYNC PROBLEM I CAN IMAGINE! All channels. It was so bad the dog went howling from the room. Since I don't have an audio delay on my receiver I can't fix it. Saw many threads - anyone know if this is even eventualy fixable on the Sammy, or is it time to buy a new reciever? (someone will have to convince my wife - good luck).

Back to the Sammy audio out - it may not be the best (actually it sounds fine) but at least it isn't like watching a Godzilla movie.

Djinn :D

Send your wife to the forum. We can talk her into a new receiver. Now that you have one of the best video displays around, you need a 5.1 audio setup to match. Won't cost a fortune, and will increase your enjoyment of the shows and movies you BOTH watch.

Originally posted by Resident Djinn

Anywho, I connected all components individually to the receiver and what I got was .....

THE MOST HORRENDOUS AUDIO LIP SYNC PROBLEM I CAN IMAGINE! All channels. It was so bad the dog went howling from the room. Since I don't have an audio delay on my receiver I can't fix it.

Djinn :D

Djinn,
Are you using the S-Video input, or DVI. I have found that the Sync issue isn't so bad with STB thru DVI, but varies when looking at SD vs HD.

Your source is likely 90% of your problem.

(1) There's a high pitched, intermittant ringing noise that comes through the Samsung TV itself. I don't have a receiver surround setup as of yet, so I've been using the TV's speakers. Through both DVD and analog cable, the speakers emit a high-pitched noise from time to time. This stops when I mute the set. What's on the screen doesn't seem to affect the noise. My wife noticed this as well, so I am not totally insane. But get this: when I connected the TV to my Sony bookshelf system, the ringing/noise went away entirely. (Obviously the easy answer is to buy the surround system now, but I'd like to get this fixed.)



I have a week-old hlp4663 which does the same thing, I didnt notice it until last night while watching DVD which come into my tv thru DVI (for the video) and the regular red/white cables for the audio. Pausing the disc had no effect on the sound but muting the tv did. It does this sometimes on regular cable channels but not on the HD ones yet (using dct6200 stb).
It reminds me of sometimes computer monitors will make the same high pitched noise in certain resolutions/refresh rate combinations. I assume
the external audio system I will soon get will be a workaround for this problem but it is still irritating. Let us know if you have any developments on this.

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
Sorry if this has been posted already.

I was playing in the user menu under the Picture - MCC settings and also under Setup - Color Weakness. I never touched the normal settings (i.e. Brightness, Color etc). When I was done 'testing' the MCC and Color Weakness settings (I had messed with them a lot), I put them back where they were (off for Color Weakness and Standard for MCC). However, everything was still way off from how I originally had it (i.e. picture was way too dark and over saturated). After doing a reset on the standard settings and then putting them back where they were, all was well again. So it would seem that once you make changes to the MCC or Color Weakness, even if you put them back where they were, something stays different. Anyone want to try and confirm this? I've been messing around a lot with the color settings. Mine seem to go back to normal. But I go into the SM quite a bit, so maybe the reset clears it up. Mark, have you ever been able to set Blue, Green, and Red optimally? When I use Avia, I'm having to live with a major Blue push to get Rec push gone.

Originally posted by lehmansh
Just picked up my HLP4663W from CC last night. No hi-def picture until Monday when Cablevision delivers a HD box. Right now, everything -cable box and DVD - conencted through coaxial cable. TV performing excellent so far. No A/V sync problems, no shadows or rainbows.....

Only issue is that I tried 'Finding Nemo' DVD using the component video connection and the whole picture was coming out in red color. This was not the case when the DVD was connected to the TV via coaxial cable. I double-checked the connections to make sure the R-G-B cables were correctly set. Anybody can think why I'm having the 'red' color problem from this DVD connection? Any recommended solution?

It sounds as if you didn't switch your dvd output to COMPONENT. That is likely done by the on-screen menu. I sell component (and other a/v cables), and that is one of the most frequent problems my customers have...they plug in the component cables and forget that the DVD player's output has to be changed. The effect of that is a red picture.

I hope that is all it is before you run out and buy a new dvd player!

-Bob

Originally posted by royal
I brought my notebook to Circuit City in Portland yesterday to hookup to their 50" HLP (only place in Portland that had one on display I could find). I only have a VGA jack and cheap cable, but the results were awesome. From 10 feet or so text was very readable in both Widescreen PC and 4:3 modes. It was as good as I had hoped. I'm a programmer and am reasonably confident at this point that I'll be comfortable coding on this beauty. The display unit was all they had at the store, but they did have one at their gateway store and it was delivered last night (it was near closing and this was very cool, this Circuit City store treated me great). I need to get a longer cable, but in the next few days I should have time to play and a better feel and would be happy to answer questions.

How did you hook your laptop to the HLP?

I've been using the Digital Video Essentials disk to play with the settings on my HLP5663. The disk reveals that the HLP came out of the box with a 5% over-scan on the top and bottom and a little less on the left and right. However, the entire picture is shifted to the right about 2.5%. This causes the tv station logo's to be partially hidden on the right side of the screen. Do I have to go to the Service Menu to correct this shift to the right? Should I be willing to accept 5% over-scan? I'm not very comfortable tying to access the Service Menu without some help from you experts out there!
Thanks, Clark

I had the shift to the right also. There is a SM setting called H-postion that can move the picture. To access SM, with the tv off, press: Mute-1-8-2-power
SM will be on. Menu at very top is ine you want. Withing that menu is H-position. Adjust by increasing or decreasing. I had to go from 63 to 72.

My set is getting serviced, so I am going to have technician redo this for me b/c picture seems to have a slight tilt. Hopefully overscan will be adjusted also, or at least I can watch what he's doing to see how he adjusts it.

Question for lehmansh or anyone else who wants to help out a rookie :)

Can I ask you some questions.

They just dropped off my HLP4663W Manufacture date on back is June 2004

I currently have Dish Network (NO HDTV) until Wed 8/4/04.

Cablevision is coming with the HDTV box (DVI Out) and installing my I/O Cable..I will then be canceling my Dish Network

1) Do you currenlty have your HLP4663W hooked up VIA DVI from Cable box to TV?
2) What DVD player do you have and how is it working out? ( I am thinking on getting the Samsung HD941 and hooking it up by DVD (DVI out) to the HDMI in on the TV? Any thoughts?
3) The picture is just OK worse then my CRT, but like I said I only have Dish Network right now, no DVD to try out HDTV channels.
4) The digit picture from Dnetwork does appear grainny/ghosty on all channels..Any thoughts?

And last, since you have had this TV and Cablevison And suggestions for me to help me out?

Rcoops72

My set is getting serviced, so I am going to have technician redo this for me b/c picture seems to have a slight tilt. Hopefully overscan will be adjusted also, or at least I can watch what he's doing to see how he adjusts it.

Thanks for your help. I would like to hear what the technician says about the shift to the right and the overscan. Did the tilt happen after you made the adjustment in the service menu or before you made any adjustments?

^^^^Before I made the adjustments, still there after. I'll let you know whenever it gets serviced next week.

Got this reply from Samsung in reply to an inquiry regarding SM for 5063
----------------------------------

Dear Customer,

Thank you for your inquiry, below is the information for the service manual.

If you wish to make a purchase please contact us at 800-627-4368 or www.samsungparts.com

Part Number: SM-HLP5063W
Description: SERVICE MANUAL
Specification: HLP5063W
Unit Price: $22.00
Plus $7.95 for shipping and handling.

Originally posted by rcoops72
Question for lehmansh or anyone else who wants to help out a rookie :)

Can I ask you some questions.

4) The digit picture from Dnetwork does appear grainny/ghosty on all channels..Any thoughts?

Rcoops72

I got my Dishnet 721 DVR connected to my 5063 using S-Video and picture for the most part is fine. You might want to try connecting using the S-Video. Using the plain RF and composite output will be crap.

Jzc

I've had my HLP5063W for a few weeks now. Just about everything I've read about on this thread has happened.

Rainbows: yep, there they are. Not a real problem, though, just something you notice once in a while when looking away quickly.

Audio synch: Yes, I've seen it from time to time. Usually it's not noticeable at all, sometimes it's slightly distracting, and once or twice it's been really bad. According to the serial number, the set was made in April, so maybe there's a "fix".

Smudges: Yes, I've seen them several times. As everyone says, they go away.

Three Blinking Lights: Sigh... Yes. About three weeks after getting the TV, there would occasionally be audio only when it was turned on, especially if it hadn't been off too long. Then it spontaneously "rebooted". Unplugging the set for a half hour or so helped for several days, then it began to fail no matter how long it had been unplugged. Following up on something I read here, I removed the lamp and put it back in. Voila, it worked. The next day, it stopped again. The technician is coming tomorrow or the next day.

The good news is that HD through component (TWC in Houston doesn't support DVI on their boxes) looks awesome. Even my TV-hating wife loves it. DVDs through component (my cheap Samsung DVD/VHS combo) look very good indeed, and digital SD is OK.

Well, the new digital board seemed to get rid of the vertical blocks/horzontal lines/triple-ghosting, at least overnight.

Then the 4663 stopped working altogether (3 blinking lights). 5 days later (yesterday), the field engineer was back on my doorstep to replace the ballast (didn't do anything, so he put the old one back in), and then replaced the entire light engine assembly.

I have my nice HDTV back. Aaaaaah! :)

Samsung initial build quality: C+
Samsung customer service (phone): B
Samsung field engineer (Raul): A

For those of you lucky enough to be in the San Diego area, he's really a pleasure to work with. :)

Originally posted by vanceen
I've had my HLP5063W for a few weeks now. Just about everything I've read about on this thread has happened.

Rainbows: yep, there they are. Not a real problem, though, just something you notice once in a while when looking away quickly.



You need to be aware that once you start seeing rainbows you will always see them, there is no turning back. Are you prepared to live with them?

BTW, how many people see rainbows and have decided to live with them?

You guys that are debating the Sammy HLP's should also research the new Mitsubishi DLPs! They look pretty promising and I might change my order through Tweeter...

Plus the Diamond Series Mits DLP's will even feature a 120 GB hard drive to record your shows.

According to sales guys at Tweeter, they should be out this month...

Chas.

Originally posted by Auditor55
You need to be aware that once you start seeing rainbows you will always see them, there is no turning back. Are you prepared to live with them?

BTW, how many people see rainbows and have decided to live with them?

I seen them at first on my HLN567 and was ready to bring the TV back after 1 week, I hardly ever see them anymore, they don't bother me at the least. But everyone is different.

Originally posted by chaslum
You guys that are debating the Sammy HLP's should also research the new Mitsubishi DLPs! They look pretty promising and I might change my order through Tweeter...

Plus the Diamond Series Mits DLP's will even feature a 120 GB hard drive to record your shows.

According to sales guys at Tweeter, they should be out this month...

Chas.

Sounds nice until the hard drive thats a dump, I prefer to buy the hardware separate in case that does happen.

"Hard Drive thats a dump?" -Huh?

Anyways, I'm not sure either. I will probably just go for the Medallion Series and pick up their HD 600 box when it becomes available. The Comcast/Crapcast DVR box I'm using now just plain sucks and it doesn't record HD content.

Just to put in my two bits on Samsung, We picked up our 5063 at CC on July 22, about a week after the CC salesperson told me that it was a special order because of the manufacturers quality hold. It looks like they have solved their quality problems. It was good to go - out of the box. I'm still experimenting but my TS 360 STB is set to give me 480i/480p when transmitted with that format and 720p for all HD. I use the DVI input. The DirecTV HD looks fantastic as does the OTA HD local channels. The non-digital local channels look like they always did - very, very poor. I set my JVC DVD player to 480p and sent that to the component input. My wife and I am extremely impressed with the PQ, it was much better than I expected. So now there is less urgency to spring for a new DVD player and can let my bank account recover. The non-HD DirecTV looks good - better than I expected but if DirecTV gives me achoice in programming, we'll always watch the HD.
My wife and I are amazed. We are more than just satisfied. My wife describes the picture as almost 3-demensional. We have experienced none of the problems that others have spoken to. The build date on our unit is July 2004. No power problems, no rainbows (I've tried hard to see them), no lip sync problems (except with some local OTA broadcasts). With around 150 hours of on-time, we are very pleased.

Larry,

Thanks for weighing in. A lot of satisfied owners just sit back and enjoy, leaving the peeved to post.

chaslum, What Comcast DVR do you have? My Moto 6208 records HD beautifully, though the 80-gig drive limits it to under 10 hours.

We are the silent majority.

Originally posted by rcoops72
Question for lehmansh or anyone else who wants to help out a rookie :)

Can I ask you some questions.

They just dropped off my HLP4663W Manufacture date on back is June 2004

I currently have Dish Network (NO HDTV) until Wed 8/4/04.

Cablevision is coming with the HDTV box (DVI Out) and installing my I/O Cable..I will then be canceling my Dish Network

1) Do you currenlty have your HLP4663W hooked up VIA DVI from Cable box to TV?
2) What DVD player do you have and how is it working out? ( I am thinking on getting the Samsung HD941 and hooking it up by DVD (DVI out) to the HDMI in on the TV? Any thoughts?
3) The picture is just OK worse then my CRT, but like I said I only have Dish Network right now, no DVD to try out HDTV channels.
4) The digit picture from Dnetwork does appear grainny/ghosty on all channels..Any thoughts?

And last, since you have had this TV and Cablevison And suggestions for me to help me out?

Rcoops72

rcoops72 -

Just got Cablevision to deliver a HD cable box for I/O. Hooked up right now using component video. Probably upgrade to DVI cable this weekend. HD picture is great so far. I'm not a techie-type so to me, the other channels appear to have excellent PQ. No A/V, raindow, or shadow issues... I have a DVD/VCR combo unit so I have it hooked by S-Video so that the VCR functions can work on the TV without changing the wires.

Cablevision customer support was great. Came in the three hour period of the scheduled appointment time. They provide cheap video component cables so I switched to my Radio Shack Gold Series component cables.

I didn't buy an extended warranty from Circuit City. I registered with Samsung to get the extended three months and by paying with MC, I get an additional one year of warranty coverage.

I hope this helps!!

Originally posted by wittangamo

chaslum, What Comcast DVR do you have? My Moto 6208 records HD beautifully, though the 80-gig drive limits it to under 10 hours.

I have the Scientific Atlanta DVR box. Last time I checked the Motorolla HD DVR box is not available in my region (DC/N.VA) yet. Where are you?

Chas.

A hundred miles south in Richmond. Here Comcast sends Motorola boxes North of the river and Scientific Atlanta boxes south of the river because of an old dividing line between former competitors. But I think I'm correct in saying SA has an HD DVR available here. You might want to check the HDTV hardware and local access forums and call Comcast.

I'm getting an HLP5063 so I've called Cox to inquire about the HD boxes they use and we get the SA3250HD in this area. They say the DVI port on the back is not activated yet, but I've heard other people say that they've gotten that same story, yet it worked when they tried. I'll be doing the same.

My question, though, is when I get this box, do I have to connect both the component cables AND the composite cables? The user guide for the 3250HD shows doing this for "connection to an HDTV and home theater receiver".

I was under the impression that all I needed to do was to run component cables from HD STB to the 5063 and then run the digital coax from the HD STB to my Bose headunit. I'd rather not connect composites if I don't have to.

You are correct. You don't need both. Use DVI if it works, component if it doesn't.

I have both the HLP5063W and the HLN507W (pre lip sync fix). I can confirm that the HLN works fine with Comcast Moto 5100 and 6208 at 720p but the HLP does NOT. The picture won’t sync unless you change the moto box to output 1080i.

I can also say that when the 2 DLP's are side by side displaying from the same source (one on component out and one on DVI out or vice versa ) the HLP has much richer, fuller flesh tones however the HLN sharpness of detail is significantly better than the HLP.

It’s a real bummer since the HD effect (super sharp resolution) is a bit lost in the HLP compared to the HLN.

When I called Samsung's DSG and asked about this, they told me they should be equally sharp so I thought I had a bad HLP set. To satisfy my curiosity I went out and bought another HLP5063W and did a side by side by side comparison. The 2 HLP's had identical picture quality, so based on my sample size of 2 I can say that the sharpness of detail in the HLP's is noticeably lower than the HLN's.

Can anyone else confirm this lack of sharpness of detail on the HLP's compared to the HLN's.

BTW i calaibrated all 3 sets as best as I could using Avia

What do you mean by "The picture won’t sync unless you change the moto box to output 1080i?" I have set my Moto box to 720p to test ESPN HD, and received everything fine via DVI. HLP 4663, and reset the picture size to Wide TV when I did this as it defaulted to Wide PC the fitst time it got a 720p signal.

Originally posted by rahulp
Can anyone else confirm this lack of sharpness of detail on the HLP's compared to the HLN's.

BTW i calaibrated all 3 sets as best as I could using Avia

yeah rahulp, the HD3 (HLP 63 series)sets are not as sharp as the HLN sets (HD2) but the HD2+ (HLP 85 series) are. Still, some enjoy the soft look - personal preference.

Originally posted by lmplot
What do you mean by "The picture won’t sync unless you change the moto box to output 1080i?"
Implot, he's talking component.

My bad! I suppose that's another reason to use DVI if you have it.

Originally posted by lmplot
My bad! I suppose that's another reason to use DVI if you have it.

I would have thought so too. However to my eye is looks like component puts out a better picture than DVI on the Comcast Moto 6208. I know that makes no sense but that's what eye sees. So what's the cause of this, the Moto STB or the Sammy DLP????

I don't know--but I am happy with the DVI, I can't believe going back and forth with in analog via component could be better.
Meanwhile, let me ask this.
I have my DVD via Component, and was trying to experiment yesterday as to the difference between progressive from the DVD, as opposed to letting the Sammie do it. The DVD is a 2002 Toshiba 4700, and you put it into Progressive by flipping a switch on the back.
Not only could not see ANY difference--and I mean any clue that flicking the switch did anything--but when it was supposed to be in progressive, the Sammie info screen still claimed it was receiving 480i.
Now, this is not a real problem, since Sammie film mode is doing a fine job and DVD looks fine, but it does raise my curiousity,a s I ought to at least see SOME indication that the DVD is coming out 480p, or the various effects of changes
Any of you have an opinion (oops, you've all got opinions!) as to what is happening here? This was never tested before as prior to the Sammie the DVD was via S-Video to a 1988 RCA CRT. If it's broke, again, it's no big deal as the Sammie does the work.

I did go back and forth, and the DVI always showed more detail and a better picture than component, no matter what I was watching.

The one oddity I found with my HLP5063W/Motorola 6208 combo was that outputting 720p (native for the HLP) from the Moto actually looked worse than 1080i. I concluded that the TV did a better job of scaling than the TV.

As to the HLN/HLP differences, don't forget the HLP has several improvements. It uses the HD3 chip for a boost in contrast and improved black levels, adds a faster seven-segment color wheel for fewer rainbows and more accurate colors (no green push,) and it uses what TI calls SmoothVision to reduce jaggies, screen door effect and mosquito noise.

Some dislike the "softer" image, but I don't see any loss of detail in HD. I do see fewer flaws in SD and DVDs with the newer model. I'm glad I got an HLP, but I understand why it's a matter of personal preference.

As for DVD, I didn't see much difference at all between 480i and 480p on my cheapo Magnavox. But when I hooked up a Sammy 931 upconverted to 720p via HDMI -- my jaw hit the floor.

Count me among the 'happy campers' with HLP. Got my 6163 this Wed, 8/4, from Magnolia HiFi in Emeryville, CA--great folks and a very competitive price. It is connected to a Moto 6200 (from Comcast) with Firmware 7.15, and a Sammy HD-841 (to be replace by a 941 when they are available), both via DVI (using a hybrid DVI-HDMI cable for the DVD into the HDMI port of the 6163).
This is my 1st HD rig, and I am incredibly impressed! I even find the SD digital cable channels very good (had a 12 year old 36" Proscan that was quite out of focus!).

Now I just had to work my way through the manual to set all the preferences, etc. I will stay tuned to this thread and dearly appreciate any info you more experienced ones have about recommended settings, customizine the remotes (have 4, with the Onkyo HTS770 6.1 sound).

Might be time to invest in a good universal remote, especially if you have a spouse or kids that will be using the HT setup. The Harmony remotes are especially user-friendly -- push one button to "Watch TV," another to "Watch DVD" and it handles all the input switching for you.

Wittengamo--your observation about output at 1080i vs 720p is what I would expect. By any chance have you had a serious look at 720p output for ESPN or ABC HD, if you can get a good program, as opposed to Moto converting it to 1080i and then Sammie back to 720p (and I forget--are you one of those who does not have ESPN HD?)
We are ecstatic about our 46" HLP, and although we do not have an HLN to compare to, when I first saw the HLN in May, we thought it was too crisp. So there is just no issue with this.
As for DVD, yes I am dying to get an upscaling player, but am afraid I can't get that past the budget officer with only a 2.5 year old player.
BTW--I don't have DVE or AVIA disc yet, and have done this by eyeball using an average of numbers seen here for contrast/brightness/color. Yesterday I remembered that Monsters, Inc has a THX Optimizer with video stuff on it. Put it it, and lo, I was within numerals of the settings that were optimum as per their standards--as we perceived them.

I did compare on ESPN HD, and could barely tell a difference between 1080i and 720p. On a 1080i signal, the difference was much more noticeable.

My Moto box doesn't have a "pass-through" setting to output 720p as 720p and 1080i as 1080i. You have to pick one or the other, and 1080i was the obvious choice for me.

DVE is pretty cheap (about $16 as I recall,) and does a more thorough job on video as well as audio.

I understand what you mean about the expense of a new DVD player, I couldn't resist a half-price open-box special on mine and it does make a difference. My budget officer relented after I agreed to set up the old player with the old TV in a spare bedroom so she could watch "Sex in the City" reruns and pause/zoom to ogle handbags as often as she wants.

Wittengamo- Thanks for the suggestion about a universal remote!

Wittangamo--and MY budget director has always been appalled by SITC, and has stalked out if it was even surfed to! for more than 2 seconds!

It's too bad the Moto doesn't have pass through. And if I could redesign it, I'd find a way so that 480i overide will properly let you have the menu info both on everything through DVI and also through non-HD stations via video or RF out. Menu info is lost for non HD on DVI if this is done, and posts on these boards indicate this ahs to do with our Sammies for some reason. I am finally getting the cahnce to see that the SD stations do look better if you don't take them via DVI. The problem is that Comcast in Philly has a group of several SD stations--not even digital--that they protect via source scrambling, so that they must come through their box.

Originally posted by wittangamo
Might be time to invest in a good universal remote, especially if you have a spouse or kids that will be using the HT setup. The Harmony remotes are especially user-friendly -- push one button to "Watch TV," another to "Watch DVD" and it handles all the input switching for you.

I just bought a Harmony sst-659, I have a HLP6163 on it's way, Is this remote going to be easy to program with the Samsung HLP. Any problems I should know about.

Joe V.

Nah. You can go to the Harmony website now and do a "test drive" to set up a profile of all your equipment. Then when you get your remote, you hook it up to any USB port on your PC and it will download the profile you created.

The whole process takes just a few minutes, and should work right out of the box. However, it can take a few tries to get all the little stuff sorted out, especially if you have to customize specific butttons or learn commands from your old remotes.

The end result is a lot simpler than juggling multiple remotes, and the Harmony is capable of almost infinite customization.

Originally posted by jwv651
I just bought a Harmony sst-659, I have a HLP6163 on it's way, Is this remote going to be easy to program with the Samsung HLP. Any problems I should know about.

Joe V.

You finally made your decision. Enjoy your set!!

Hi guys:

Got a new HLP5063 which I'm running off a DirecTV HD Tivo receiver via the HDMI cable.

I've been trying to figure out how to make the zoom feature work without success. When I go to the picture size menu I find only four options:

Wide, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3

The Expand setting doesn't seem to change anything compared to the wide mode and the 4:3 setting just shrinks the picture horizontally.

My kid is currently watching a letterboxed Disney movie on the Disney Channel and it is coming in with 2-3" window boxes on all 4 sides. I have been unable to figure out if it is possible to zoom in to full screen. Everything I try doesn't work.

Any suggestions, or does the aspect ratio get locked on these TVs when using the HDMI input?

Originally posted by Auditor55
You finally made your decision. Enjoy your set!!

I exhausted myself and my family going back and forth to 5 different stores on 5 separate occasions, I also was reading this forum way to much, I was totally confused, I went to all the stores by myself and was going to make a final decision, and I decided I liked the Samsung the best..price was not a factor, never has been. I just like the Samsung's PQ the best, I think they are all awesome in one way or another.
I hope to enjoy it real soon, Thanks

Joe V.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by texasdiver
Wide, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3
If these are the settings you are seeing then you must be connected using a DVI or HDMI cable. What you call "Wide" is "Wide TV".

The Expand setting doesn't seem to change anything compared to the wide mode and the 4:3 setting just shrinks the picture horizontally.
Expand is intended to be used with Letterbox material. It will enlarge the image an equal amount in all four directions until the image reaches the sides left and right sides of the screen.

There is information about the different aspect ratios ("P. Size" button on your remote) in the "black bars" link at the bottom of this message.
[QUOTE]

Thanks htwaits

Yes, I'm using HDMI to connect the HD Tivo box to the DLP and you are correct, the Wide is Wide TV.

I assumed that "EXPAND" was similar to zoom but in this particular instance it seemed to have no effect. I read all of your good information on black bars and understand most of it. However in this particular example, nothing I would do would zoom the picture.

The actual show my kid was watching was letterboxed in an unusual way. What it looked like was a regular 16:9 widescreen film that was letterboxed for broadcast on the 4:3 Disney channel but the actual letterbox was part of the picture because the Disney Logo was overlapping into the bottom edge letterbox. Perhaps the TV was seeing the logo in the bottom letterbox space and was thinking that it wasn't a letterbox movie because the letterbox wasn't completely black.

Does anyone know how the actual EXPAND command works? Is it a "smart" command in that it only expand to the edge of the black space? Or does it just automatically expand a pre-set amount without regard to what is playing? Because in this particular instance I couldn't see that the command was having any effect.

I currently have my HLP5663 connected to the Moto 6208 by DVI. HD pictures fill the whole screen, but SD signals have black bars on the side. The only picture size options that I have are wide and 4:3. I understand that this is all that I should have when connected via DVI. I wanted to try component to test the HD picture and try the stretch modes. I hooked up the STB that way, but still only had the wide and 4:3 options. Only HD signals filled the whole screen. The manual says that I should have Wide, Panorama, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4:3 when connected by component. Does anyone know why I don't have this option? I do have these options when the STB is connected by coax????????? Also, like others I could not get the STB to sync with the TV over component when the box was set to output 720p. DVI is fine when the box is set to 720p. Any help with the stretch mode problems?

Thanks!

The previous post was when the STB was set to 1080i. I just switched the STB to output 720p and now the TV gives me the options of Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3 over DVI. If I could only get the STB to sync with the TV over component at 720p, then maybe I would have all the correct options?

The ikea stand is the way to go!

http://homepage.mac.com/bitfly/.Pictures/Misc/samsung1.jpg

Originally posted by fsunoles1
The previous post was when the STB was set to 1080i. I just switched the STB to output 720p and now the TV gives me the options of Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3 over DVI. If I could only get the STB to sync with the TV over component at 720p, then maybe I would have all the correct options?
I think you have to have firmware version 7.15 in order to get the Motorola to sync outputting 720p through component.

Originally posted by texasdiver
The actual show my kid was watching was letterboxed in an unusual way.
If it's the case that the black bars are in the image then Wide (TV) may be the best you can do. A letterbox film will work with "Expand" or "Zoom1" (depending on the connection) because there are no black bars in the stored image.

Originally posted by htwaits
I think you have to have firmware version 7.15 in order to get the Motorola to sync outputting 720p through component.

7.15 doesn't do it. No solution so far.
jb

Originally posted by fsunoles1
The manual says that I should have Wide, Panorama, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4:3 when connected by component. Does anyone know why I don't have this option? I do have these options when the STB is connected by coax?????????

I think you only get all those stretch modes when the signal is 480i. Try setting the 4:3 override on your 6208 to 480i. You will have to use component since Samsung does not support 480i over DVI.

I am going to ask a question I asked on another thread: When looking at SD on the 5085 at PCR in Wide Mode, the people looked fat. In other words not such a good stretch mode. I know everyone says to just watch SD in 4:3 mode, well I like the my picture as fullscreen as possible. Panorama Mode seems to make the sides fuzzy. Is there any mode that I am missing to make a good stretch in SD ? If not any SM tweaks I could perform to make things look less fat in Wide Mode ?

Well, you can't stretch without making SOME image sacrifice. You either have to chop off the top/bottom, fuzz out the sided, or have wide people. It's the nature of stretching. :-)

Originally posted by batf
I think you only get all those stretch modes when the signal is 480i. Try setting the 4:3 override on your 6208 to 480i. You will have to use component since Samsung does not support 480i over DVI.

Batf,

Thanks for the advice. I tried the 4:3 override and it did work, even over DVI.

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
Yes and it looks great. Just be sure to change the display options in the MS Dash.

That is just it, to what? It asks me if my TV supports 480p, 720p and 1080i. Technically it can do all 3 so do I say yes to all 3 or since everything is converted to 720p do I just select that?

Originally posted by dennya
Well, you can't stretch without making SOME image sacrifice. You either have to chop off the top/bottom, fuzz out the sided, or have wide people. It's the nature of stretching. :-)

I know that. My CRT's do good stretches, Pioneer 533 and Sony 65V600. I am wondering is there a good stretch mode on the Samsungs ? Maybe I am just used to the Natural Wide mode on my Pioneer, but the Samsung modes that I have seen so far, Wide, Panorama are pretty bad. Anything to make them better ?

Originally posted by Mixdoctor
I am going to ask a question I asked on another thread: When looking at SD on the 5085 at PCR in Wide Mode, the people looked fat. In other words not such a good stretch mode. I know everyone says to just watch SD in 4:3 mode, well I like the my picture as fullscreen as possible. Panorama Mode seems to make the sides fuzzy. Is there any mode that I am missing to make a good stretch in SD ? If not any SM tweaks I could perform to make things look less fat in Wide Mode ?

I find on my 5063 that Zoom 1 is better than stretch. I think everything is enlarged equally on Zoom thereby keeping people's bodies in proportion. On stretch I believe it's just widened but not lengthened. However, on Zoom some words at the bottom of the picture will be cut off.

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
I find on my 5063 that Zoom 1 is better than stretch. I think everything is enlarged equally on Zoom thereby keeping people's bodies in proportion. On stretch I believe it's just widened but not lengthened. However, on Zoom some words at the bottom of the picture will be cut off.

Agreed. I actually usually watch SD in 4:3 but if I want to expand it, I use Zoom 1. Esp. for shows that have the black bars on the top and the bottom and are in 4:3 (not sure if this is technically "letterboxed") - you barely lose anything. For example, didn't get home in time to watch Six Ft. Under live on HD yesterday so I watched a recorded version on my SD DVR in Zoom 1 - took up the entire screen and all that was cut off was a tiny fraction of the top and bottom.

Wide (stretch) looks ok but is kind of unnatural I think.

I just wish Samsung did better stretch modes. I saw a Mit 525 next to the Kirk and it's stretch modes expanded the picture without everyone looking fat. Does anyone use Panaroma mode?

After 3 weeks of viewing my new HLP4663 I have a few comments and questions:

1. I’m very happy with it!
2. I don’t see rainbows (unless I whip my head side to side quickly - not the optimal viewing position!)
3. No ballast or bulb issues
4. I see shot-term, random, sporadic A/V sync issues, but seems to depend on the SD source. Never on DVD or HD sources.

Now for the questions:

1. Can’t get PIP to work with digital cable box. I use DVI connection from my STB. Cable goes into STB; DVI goes to TV; cable out from the STB goes to Ant1. PIP only shows snow. If I connect cable into Ant1 then out to STB, I get HD signal breakup (signal degradation? Even using Monster coax cable.). Anyone have a successful setup?
2. When using Samsung HD841 DVD player, should DVI output be set to 480p or 720p? Using Snell & Wilcox zone plate on DVE, I see interference on either setting. Since I don’t really know what I’m doing, it looks like both the player and TV do a poor job of converting film sources. Is this true? Does the TV have a Faroudja chip? I thought so. I don’t think the DVD does. What DVD player is better?
3. What are the best settings picture for SD and HD TV. Each set must be different, but should it be picture mode = “cinema” or “standard”. Or whatever I like best? What does the "cinema" setting do? To me it makes the HD or SD picture yellow/green-ish.
4. Does the interlacing chip (Faroudja?) work only on the “cinema” picture setting? Is this the optimal DVD stetting?

Thanks for the help.

I have the same STB to TV set up as you (via DVI). For me, I have to tune the TV to channel 3 to see anything in PIP. But then I am viewing the same thing in both the PIP window and the main window.

We need a splitter before the STB. Output 1 from the splitter goes to STB and to TV VIA DVI. Output 2 from the splitter goes to tv via ant 1.

Originally posted by buckmanb
4. Does the interlacing chip (Faroudja?) work only on the “cinema” picture setting? Is this the optimal DVD stetting?

Thanks for the help.

4. The Faroudja 3:2 pulldown only works if you have the "Film Mode" option set to On and are watching 480i film content - in other words DVDs. It won't do anything for SD TV which is also 480i - pretty sure about that. Has nothing to do w/ your picture settings.

Would be curious to see replies to your other questions (Chris523's reply to #1 makes sense).

The .pdf Manual link at the begining of this thread for the 61" HLP is not working nor is the link on the Samsungusa website,

Does anyone know where I can currently view/download an 61"HLP manual?

Chas.

Originally posted by chaslum
The .pdf Manual link at the begining of this thread for the 61" HLP is not working nor is the link on the Samsungusa website,

Does anyone know where I can currently view/download an 61"HLP manual?

Chas.

You have a PM.

Originally posted by chaslum
Does anyone know where I can currently view/download an 61"HLP manual?

Send me a PM with an email address and I'll send the user manual to you.

Does anyone know where I can view a HL-P4663W Service Manual?

I have the new HLP 5063 set with a Motorola 6200 HD cable box hooked up to the TV through the DVI port. For Audio i have a Bose 3-2-1 system hooked up through standard RCA cables to the HD box and to the TV through an S-Video port.

We have watched a few movies on the Bose DVD player and on several occassions the audio and video get out of sync. Sometimes its noticeable sometimes its not. While watching TV I noticed it happening sporadically too.

Is there a fix for this or do i need to return this TV for a new one>

As I have mentioned, I am getting a Moto HD DVR box installed tomorrow (not sure of model #).

It sounds like the HLP with the DVI might be my best bet for watching all my channels. Is the consensus that this is the best way view local SD channels? I have been debating on the Mits DLP but I like the TV size and smoother PQ better with the HLP, as it will probably fare better with SD.

I have also read that some cable companies provide the Moto HD-DVR box but the DVI output is inactive. Why would this be? I would call Comcast but I dont feel like waiting an hour to talk to an idiot and then another half hour to be connected to someone with more technical knowledge...

ooops - wrong thread...

Well the 941 is officially on Samsung's site - that's always a good thing - usually means it will ship soon.

http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=DVD-HD941%2fXAA

If you had a Sammy DLP you dont need the 941...just get the cheaper 841. The DLP has the Faroudja DCDi Technology...so having it on both the DVD player (941) and TV is pointless.
The 841 is the same thing without Faroudja...

Originally posted by early
If you had a Sammy DLP you dont need the 941...just get the cheaper 841. The DLP has the Faroudja DCDi Technology...so having it on both the DVD player (941) and TV is pointless.
The 841 is the same thing without Faroudja...

Actually not true at all. DCDi is used for 480i film content (i.e. DVDs) - problem is, the DLP won't accept 480i over DVI or HDMI (only takes 480p, 720p and 1080i). So you would need to do processing in the player to convert it to 480p at a minimum and then DCDi in the DLP does nothing. If you want to upconvert it to 720p (which is the whole point of buying one of these things) then once again you are missing out on DCDi since the DLP does nothing. The DCDi in the DLP is significant for a standard non-progressive scan DVD player outputting 480i over component. That's why your picture often looks better with PS off on a regular DVD player than with it on.

So DCDi in the player is actually quite significant. No D/A conversions. Do you really think people would be waiting for months to get the 941, when they could just pick up an 841 today for $100 less if it didn't offer any added benefit?

Well i kept getting periodic audio/video sync problems through the DVD player and now occassionaly through the TV. I called Samsung today. I am now to call there local repair service and they are coming out to 'replace' some of the defective parts.

All i have to say is that so far the TV has been great except for the sync issue and Samsung gave me no problems what so ever in getting this fixed.

Great Customer Service.

Originally posted by EricScott
Actually not true at all.
Right. :)

Eric, your next assignment, should you be willing to accept it, is to find out if the "941" will use video color space instead of the PC color space that is used in the "931" and "841". :D

Some of us are waiting for that information too.

Originally posted by htwaits
Right. :)

Eric, your next assignment, should you be willing to accept it, is to find out if the "941" will use video color space instead of the PC color space that is used in the "931" and "841". :D

Some of us are waiting for that information too.

You mean blacker than black and whiter than white? I will test it out in DVE as soon as my 941 arrives.

Ok, now i have another issue..argh!

When i switch from 1080i to 720p on my Motorola 6200 box, i get black and white wavy lines maybe about 1/16th of an inch across the top of the HD channels. The 720p picture seems to be better than the 1080i and I would like very much to keep the 720p.

Is there a fix for removing these disturbing lines at the top of the picture when using 720p? Is anyone else experiencing these problems?

Originally posted by ironmlh
Ok, now i have another issue..argh!
When i switch from 1080i to 720p on my Motorola 6200 box, i get black and white wavy lines maybe about 1/16th of an inch across the top of the HD channels. The 720p picture seems to be better than the 1080i and I would like very much to keep the 720p.

Make sure you have your screen size set to Wide TV. On Wide PC and Expand I occasionally see something on top. Not sure if that is it but worth a try.

Originally posted by EricScott
You mean blacker than black and whiter than white? I will test it out in DVE as soon as my 941 arrives.
Yes.

Originally posted by ironmlh
Well i kept getting periodic audio/video sync problems through the DVD player and now occassionaly through the TV. I called Samsung today. I am now to call there local repair service and they are coming out to 'replace' some of the defective parts.



I have a HLP5063 w/Samsung HD receiver (SIR TS360) hooked up via component; the Sammy 841 DVD hooked via DVI; and a SD Tivo receiver hooked via component. I use DTV HD for my service. (The extra receiver does alow for me to view 2 seperate PIP's but not switch between the 2 sources)

The sync problems I encounter are on HD shows (ESPN HD, Discovery HD) and not all the time. Would this be a fault of the TV, receiver or programming?

I am also curious about the answer to the question posed earlier in this forum regarding the best resolution to use - 1080i, 720p, 480i or using the Native 1,2,3 options when watching HD or SD? Does it make a difference when using the off-air antenna?
Would I be better off using the DVI connection w/ the HD receiver?

Thanks for the help.
HG

I posted this on the HLN series thread about Lip Sync issues, and figured I'd post it here as well:

Samsung DLP/Lip Sync
Heyas Everyone,

First time poster here, so go easy on me for not reading 90 some pages of replies to this thread.

Just purchased a Samsung HLP5063W DLP TV. After watching and tweaking, I too am noticing the lip sync issues in some cases.

I'm on Insight Cable (a Comcast sub) and notice, by far, the worst effect there, in some cases up to a .5 second audio/video variable.

On my Sony ES DVD player, the sync is slightly noticable, if at all with S-Video connections, and non existent on Component Video, with prog-scan on and off.

I do not use the TV speakers at all, I have a HK AVR310 Receiver and Krell power amp. My cable box is currently hooked up analog, as the basic digital box does not support optical out.

My question is such: With upgrading to a HD Cable box, Insight has informed me that all the signals will be passed via DVI/Component and optical. Has anyone experienced an improvement with the sync problem with these connections? Further, my picture looks exceptionally grainy with any cable feed (S-Video) but great with DVD via either connection.

As much as I want a 50" screen, if the sound/picture problems persist, I may be swaping to a 34" XBR. My cabinet doesn't allow for anything wider thatn 47", so the Sony, Hitachi and LG LCD/DLP sets are off limits.

Any thoughts would be apprecaited.

-Michael

HG

I also have d*, but a samsung 160 hd receiver via component; and a sd d*tivo via s-video into a HLP. I'm sure the sync problems are not the fault of the display. I too have noticed it very slightly and only once on one HD channel. I just got the HLP this afternoon tho so too early to know for sure if it will develop but I did see it recently on the old 32' rca with the same connections from the same boxes. The one time I saw the sync issue on the HLP was after I froze the picture with the samsung hd receiver. Don't know for sure what corrected it but I did then freeze the displays picture for a bit and changed channels iirc.

I have experienced lag on ESPN many times. I think it's a studio problem. The only time I get lag is through S-Video or composite. There should be no lag on DVI, or with progressive signals through component.

Update on my set. As component input 2 had completely failed, now component input 1 is failing. Constant video drop-outs. I've had a tech. out, and apparently the culprit is the analog board. It seems this part is back-order. Considering that my set had several other issues, Samsung themselves are replacing my set. Should be in 2-3 weeks. Until then, I have no component input.

I guess I could use my S-Video for XBOX, but I feel like an ex-con. I just can't go back, man.

Can anybody tell me if they fixed the internal reflection issues with these new sammys?

Originally posted by antongusa
Can anybody tell me if they fixed the internal reflection issues with these new sammys?
The new light engines and chips should reduce internal reflections to the point where they are not noticed. The increased contrast ratio is partly due to less stray light in the case. A RPTV with zero stray light would be very hard to achieve. ISF calibrators have lined CRT based RPTV sets with light absorbing material for years.

Just bought the sammy HLP-5063W today at Best Buy. Unfortunately I wont be able to use it till September 6th when it is delivered. Moving and I am having it delivered to my new aprt. down south. I have been looking at all the post on this site for about 6 months and finaly decided to “pull the trigger” on this set. I looked at the Sony Wega 50 and the LG 52 and also waited till the New Kirk, and Mits model came out. I get over a thousand dollars off on all of the tv’s due to Employee Pricing so, price wasn’t too much a factor. But it looks like most people are happy with there Sammy DLP’s and I hope I made the right choice. Total with tax and 4 yr warrantee I paid about 3000.00. The largest purchase I have ever made, except for paying for College. Hope I love it!! I will keep ya posted. Thanks for all the help and this great forum. If not for this website I would have made a far less informed decision. Thanks Guys!

Originally posted by guyvictory
I have a HLP5063 w/Samsung HD receiver (SIR TS360) hooked up via component; the Sammy 841 DVD hooked via DVI; and a SD Tivo receiver hooked via component. I use DTV HD for my service. (The extra receiver does alow for me to view 2 seperate PIP's but not switch between the 2 sources)

The sync problems I encounter are on HD shows (ESPN HD, Discovery HD) and not all the time. Would this be a fault of the TV, receiver or programming?

I am also curious about the answer to the question posed earlier in this forum regarding the best resolution to use - 1080i, 720p, 480i or using the Native 1,2,3 options when watching HD or SD? Does it make a difference when using the off-air antenna?
Would I be better off using the DVI connection w/ the HD receiver?

Thanks for the help.
HG

Same thing here -- I just got the HLP4663 and see a A/V Synch issue on HD channels as well as a few locals. I hate to have to call Samsung but I just can't watch the thing whenout of synch. My eyes always go right to the lips and then my checkbook:(

Originally posted by guyvictory
I have a HLP5063 w/Samsung HD receiver (SIR TS360) hooked up via component; the Sammy 841 DVD hooked via DVI; and a SD Tivo receiver hooked via component. I use DTV HD for my service. (The extra receiver does alow for me to view 2 seperate PIP's but not switch between the 2 sources)

The sync problems I encounter are on HD shows (ESPN HD, Discovery HD) and not all the time. Would this be a fault of the TV, receiver or programming?

I am also curious about the answer to the question posed earlier in this forum regarding the best resolution to use - 1080i, 720p, 480i or using the Native 1,2,3 options when watching HD or SD? Does it make a difference when using the off-air antenna?
Would I be better off using the DVI connection w/ the HD receiver?

Thanks for the help.
HG

I have the same setup as you, 5063W with SIRTS360 - but mine is hooked via DVI (bettercables.com). I DO get AV synch issues, not all the time, but from time to time - discovery theater HD, ESPNHD, sometime others, I have not been methodical about documenting which and when. I tend to think its partially due to the source, as it doesn't happen all the time.

As far as what format to send to the TV, I think sending native 1 has given me the best results (albeit not scientific), check this thread for more discussion on this very topic:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=426743


Hope that helps-

Lee

Is anyone else experiencing excessive overscan with the 5663 HLP? I was watching HD PBS last night and the credits were cut off on both the left and right sides. I'm losing almost 2 letters of each word on the borders. The DVE test pattern says the overscan is about 5%. Can this be fixed in the service menu?

A friend of mine just got the Samsung SIRTS360 from D* and has it hooked up to a Sony t.v. and he noticed the sync issues on the HD channels. It was ESPN HD where he first noticed it and he also noticed it on one of the others as well. So that seems it is either a broadcast source issue or a Samsung 360 issue and not necessarily a Sammy DLP issue. By the way, he has it hooked up via component cables.

csimington
You can change the overscan in the service menu.

Originally posted by MacGyver1970
csimington
You can change the overscan in the service menu.

I know this is a very stupid question but can someone explain to me what an under/overscan is? :confused: While you're at it, can you also explain what a chroma bug is? I read the Secret Shootout FAGs but it's waaaay over my head :D

[QUOTE]Originally posted by LeeG23
[B]I have the same setup as you, 5063W with SIRTS360 - but mine is hooked via DVI (bettercables.com). I DO get AV synch issues, not all the time, but from time to time - discovery theater HD, ESPNHD, sometime others, I have not been methodical about documenting which and when. I tend to think its partially due to the source, as it doesn't happen all the time.

I have the 5663 hooked up to Comcast via DVI. I noted the synch problem last night watching the football game on ESPNHD. I was surfing around and when I went back to ESPNHD, the synch problem was gone. I have to believe that its a source problem.

wdang
Because the DLPs are rear projection TVs they are projecting an image onto a screen. Occasionally, the light source isn't calibrated or "aimed" perfectly at the screen. Sometimes the focal length, or distance from the lights source and the screen, is incorrect. Sometimes the image is off vertically or horizontally. The SM for the HLPs will allow for these types of corrections.

chroma bug? no idea

Originally posted by MacGyver1970
wdang
Sometimes the image is off vertically or horizontally.


You mean the image is chopped vertically/horizontally ? Thanks.

MacGyver1970,

You can change the overscan in the service menu.

Can you explain how to do this? I've read how to access the service menu, but I have not been there yet. Once in the service menu, what function controls the overscan?
Thanks,
Clark

On a different issue... I find it very inconvenient to change contrast, brightness, and color settings... it takes a minimum of 6 key presses to get to the contrast setting, then more keys to get to brightness or color. This is my personal #1 issue with the HLP56.

I suspect that a programmable remote could allow me to setup a macro to get to, for example, the contrast setting with 2 key presses... but I am not sure. And, it is not clear which specific remotes (by brand and model) would support this. I have not seen any discrete codes for accessing this level of control so the remote would need to be able to learn the sequence, one command at a time (menu, down, right, enter, enter, down, enter ).

Anyone have any experience in this area?

Thanks

Samsung, if you are reading this... even the most cursory user testing would have exposed this as a poor user interface design... these 3 controls are used all the time... make it easier to get to them!!!
Adding dedicated keys to the remote is the preferred solution.

If you're seeing overscan, make sure you have the aspect set to WIDE TV and not WIDE PC (which has built-in overscan.)

Originally posted by wittangamo
If you're seeing overscan, make sure you have the aspect set to WIDE TV and not WIDE PC (which has built-in overscan.)
I believe Wide (TV) has over-scan typical of all TV sets and Wide (PC) is scaled to remove over-scan at the cost of picture quality.

I don't recall anyone posting that they had reduced over-scan in the Samsung SM.

HLN owners have used HTPC setups to get 1x1 bit mapping without overs-can but I'm not sure that the same approach will work with the HLPxx63 sets.

Thanks wittangamo,
I was watching in 4:3, I don't like the stretched-out people.

htwaits,

I don't recall anyone posting that they had reduced over-scan in the Samsung SM.

This is not good news. I was assuming that this was at least correctable with a calibration. This may require a Samsung service call. Anyone else have any experience with this?

Originally posted by csimington
I was assuming that this was at least correctable with a calibration. This may require a Samsung service call. Anyone else have any experience with this?
You can PM SethS and ask him. He is an ISF instructor and has done a lot of Samsung DLP calibrations. My recollection is that it can't be improved in the SM and that the light engine would have to be physically moved towered the screen. Over-scan is the norm, but if possible, excessive over-scan shouldn't be accepted.

My set seems to be about 5% all around. I have seen showroom sets of all types with much more over-scan. The Loewe DLP seems to have almost no over-scan.

htwaits,
Thanks. My DVE disk measures about 5% overscan also, but I was losing two letters on the left and the right with program credits last night. Maybe it was the source. I will record next time on my DVR so I can document the issue.

Originally posted by csimington
htwaits,
Thanks. My DVE disk measures about 5% overscan also, but I was losing two letters on the left and the right with program credits last night. Maybe it was the source. I will record next time on my DVR so I can document the issue.
Over-scan's purpose is to get rid of garbage on the edges of a TV signal. You were probably watching something that didn't take that into account. I've seen some TV sets that were so bad they clipped off some of the station logo. :rolleyes:

The problems continue with my HLP 4663....

After 4 exchanges in a 1 1/2 month period for various quality issues, after a field service call 3 days ago to replace the ballast in my unit and fix the three blinking LED issue, I am ONCE AGAIN experiencing problems with my DLP monitor.

Just turned my HLP4663 on, got a picture with heavy artifacting, grainy colored vertical and horizontal lines (flashing in and out) going across the screen, and reddish/pink hazy lines around some lighter areas of the screen.

This is absolutely ridiculous, this is my fourth HLP 4663 in a month and a half, just had service on it this week to fix the blinking LEDs issue, and now this!

Any ideas?

My patience is wearing thin with Samsung... I'm not going to stick with them much longer...

That is ridiculous, but it's also puzzling. Could you be having electrical line problems or something funny in your STB? Four straight bad sets in six weeks defies the odds, and logic.

I love my Sammy, and it's given me no trouble, but I'd swap in a heartbeat if I had your experience. However, you ought to make sure there's not something else contributing to these failures or swapping brands won't help.

I suspect my answer is here somewhere but I haven't been able to find it so...

My Samsung DLP has 3 picture settings, Dynamic, Standard and Theater. Each of which can be adjusted by the user. Problem is they reset to factory default as soon as you turn the set off. Can someone tell me how to make MY settings the default?

Thanks.

Originally posted by pekingduk
The problems continue with my HLP 4663....

After 4 exchanges in a 1 1/2 month period for various quality issues, after a field service call 3 days ago to replace the ballast in my unit and fix the three blinking LED issue, I am ONCE AGAIN experiencing problems with my DLP monitor.

Just turned my HLP4663 on, got a picture with heavy artifacting, grainy colored vertical and horizontal lines (flashing in and out) going across the screen, and reddish/pink hazy lines around some lighter areas of the screen.

This is absolutely ridiculous, this is my fourth HLP 4663 in a month and a half, just had service on it this week to fix the blinking LEDs issue, and now this!

Any ideas?

My patience is wearing thin with Samsung... I'm not going to stick with them much longer...

At least you got your replacements! Samsung has had me sitting, waiting for the phone calls that never come. Samsung is by far the worst big-name company that I have ever dealt with!

And the best I've ever dealth with. I had a qualified tech with replacement parts at my door 24 hours after my first call. Much better than the "what do you want us to do about it?" or "yeah, we know about that problem and we're working on a fix" stalls I've gotten from Toshiba and RCA in the past.

Muddlin'.

The settings are independent for each input, component 1, DVI, etc. But if you change from, say, standard to cinema, it reverts to the defaults for that setting.

On my HLP5063W, I have the DVI which goes to my cable box set at Cinema, Sharpness 0, Brightness 53, Contrast 50 and Color 45. Those settings are remembered every time I turn the set on or switch to that input.

Well, now i have the 3 blinking light problem too!

I have had the audio/video sync problem on my HLP 5063, it continues to come and go with no particular regularity.

This morning I try to turn the TV on and voila' I have no picture and the 3 blinking lights.

I sure am glad Samsung doesnt make cars, there would be a total recall if they did.

Luckily I have a local service technician calling me on Monday to replace the part that is causing the audio/video sync problem and now he will have to fix the blinking light problem

I sure hope these 'fixes' stay fixed. I really dislike spending 4k on a TV set that I currently can't even use. Only had the thing 2 weeks!

Originally posted by Xzerion
I'm on my third HLP5063 set because of smudges on the left and right sides of the screen.


My third one has the same problem and am currently trying to get in touch with a supervisor at samsung about sending me one from a different plant than my Best Buy has that is in my area. The smudges are only viewable in light scenes and colors.

I was just in Circuit City in Tigard, OR, today, and saw a brand new HLP5063 that they had just put out on the floor today. It had the same problem as this, in both the upper left and right corners... bummer. Must be a widespread problem. I was really liking the PQ otherwise, though.

Well I spent the better part of my weekend watching TV - finally some HDTV sports!! Between the PGA and the Olympics I think I easily watched 20 hrs this weekend. Today I noticed the smudges on my screen appeared (haven't seen them in a while) and didn't disappear for hours - probably 4 hours. Usually they go away much quicker - like 30 to 45 mins - and are noticeable when I initially turn on the set. Today the smudges didn't appear until maybe 4 hours in and lasted for 4-5 hours. Not a big deal, just interesting that they seem to be behaving differently.