Hi:

Got my 6163w from PC Richard in NJ last Friday and I have been very happy with the unit. Couple issues though:

1. The screen is very dark when it is just powered on and it takes maybe a min to come to the full brightness, is this how DLP works?
2. Is the Samsung problem of needing service after a unexpected power outage still true for this TV? We had a few power outages in the last few months.
3. Yesterday morning I heard a few popping sounds when I turned it on. There does not appear to be any ill effects.
4. I am using a DISH HD tuner, but the SD stations do not get stretched to fill the full screen. I ended up with two black bars on both sides of the screen. I also have a Panasonic CRT RPTV, and it stretch all SD stations to fill the entire screen. Is this normal or I missed a setting?

Thanks and hope you all enjoy your HLPs.

Originally posted by linchen19
Hi:

Got my 6163w from PC Richard in NJ last Friday and I have been very happy with the unit. Couple issues though:

1. The screen is very dark when it is just powered on and it takes maybe a min to come to the full brightness, is this how DLP works?
2. Is the Samsung problem of needing service after a unexpected power outage still true for this TV? We had a few power outages in the last few months.
3. Yesterday morning I heard a few popping sounds when I turned it on. There does not appear to be any ill effects.
4. I am using a DISH HD tuner, but the SD stations do not get stretched to fill the full screen. I ended up with two black bars on both sides of the screen. I also have a Panasonic CRT RPTV, and it stretch all SD stations to fill the entire screen. Is this normal or I missed a setting?

Thanks and hope you all enjoy your HLPs. 1: Thats just the bulb warming up.
2: Get yourself a UPS for piece of mind.
3: Probably nothing to worry about. I would however, if using DVI, turn off your STB whenever you turn off your TV or you may get a scrambled signal or color bars when you turn your TV back on. I forgot a few times and had to unplug my STB for a minute and then plug it back in to get a good picture. This is with cable, I guess dish is the same way.
4: Your CRT stretched everything to avoid burning the screen. IF you really want it stretched you can do it with your remote. Thats up to you.

Originally posted by linchen19
Hi:

Got my 6163w from PC Richard in NJ last Friday and I have been very happy with the unit. Couple issues though:

3. Yesterday morning I heard a few popping sounds when I turned it on. There does not appear to be any ill effects.

Thanks and hope you all enjoy your HLPs.

Glad you mentioned this - I always forget to post about this. I've had my HLP for 2 months now and hear these popping noises after I turn off my set (and sometimes while it is on) pretty frequently. It's not a pretty noise, sounds like some piece of plastic is being stretched and cracked in there. But so far, no problems to report (knock knock).

Hi, can someone tell me whether all the discrete remote codes for the HLP series sets have been discovered?

Samsung is preparing to swap my busted HLN567W with the HLP5663 model, and I'd like to get a head start on programming my MX-700 with the new codes if possible.

Originally posted by Slaine
Hi, can someone tell me whether all the discrete remote codes for the HLP series sets have been discovered?



Check out this post/thread - lists the One For All / Universal Remote Control advanced codes. It may also have a pronto file in here somwhere, which may or may not be compatible with the MX-700. I have an MX-500 - can't hook it up to a computer, so I need to teach these codes to another (cheapo) remote and then teach them to the MX. Has worked great though. Still missing HDMI and Video-2.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3947284#post3947284

BTW - a little tip that I use to have more complete control over my components. I have 2 unused device buttons on the MX-500. So I teach various commands (mainly DLP and Receiver commands) to the 0 through 9, ENT and DIS keys in these devices (12 keys per unused device). Then you can map these to your FAV screens so that no matter what device you are in, you can quickly bring up the DLP commands with a single button press. Works great for PIP.

Since I got my second HLP5063 (whose picture quality is superior to the 5063 that died) I've been very pleased. Much better PQ than the HLN65065, better blacks, better shadow contrast.

Here's the question:

Been watching NBC's rather limited HD Olympic coverage. Every time there's rapid movement (i.e. divers doing sommersault, women's gymnasts running at the vault) a large portion of the picture pixellates into what look likes CGA-quality on 14" CRT monitors circa 1985.

Is this a function of the HD broadcast or the design of the DLP system in the Sammy?

Originally posted by CraigSharrow
Since I got my second HLP5063 (whose picture quality is superior to the 5063 that died) I've been very pleased. Much better PQ than the HLN65065, better blacks, better shadow contrast.

Here's the question:

Been watching NBC's rather limited HD Olympic coverage. Every time there's rapid movement (i.e. divers doing sommersault, women's gymnasts running at the vault) a large portion of the picture pixellates into what look likes CGA-quality on 14" CRT monitors circa 1985.

Is this a function of the HD broadcast or the design of the DLP system in the Sammy?

I have noticed the same thing and I was wondering if it is the Sammy or the source. I am receiving NBC through TWC.

Is everyone else experiencing this?

I am.

Check out this thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=434840

Originally posted by chris523
I am.

Check out this thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=434840

Thanks for the link.......

Originally posted by CraigSharrow

Is this a function of the HD broadcast or the design of the DLP system in the Sammy?

Definitely related to the HD broadcast. There have been quite a few mentions of similiar problems on Mits., Samsungs and other sets in a varierty of threads.

Hello all, I'm a newbie here.

Hearing a bunch of bad news about some of your experiences with the new HLP. Sorry to hear that.

I just got my 46" HLP 2 weeks ago, and couldn't be happier; no problems what so ever. Out of the box picture was Great, and after some tweaking with avia WOW what a beautiful picture. DVD looks almost flawless (and my dvd player is a POS, not even progressive scan).

Standard broadcast didn't look that great when I first fired up the TV, but after the avia it's fine. Colours were WAY off, contrast and brightness were WAY too high. my best results were after reducing the contrast to 56, and the brightness to 47. I found it quite difficult to use the contrast, and brightness test patterns on the avia dvd. during the needles test pattern there is no blooming what so ever, regardless of how high you turn it up, and on the brightness test screen you can only see 1 moving black bar regardless of the level. I don't know if these patterns just don’t work on
DLP's, but you just have to use your own discretion on the contrast; the colours seemed to wash out if the brightness is higher than 46~48. Some of the stations now look just as good if not better than my brand new Sony 27" CRT. It's weird...The standard cable DID improve after avia, but it seems like the picture quality improved significantly (by itself) after approx 40 hrs of viewing. not sure if I am getting use to the quality of the picture, or if it has actually improved. Images seem to look sharper, and less pixillated.

Xbox hooked up via Microsft HD kit to component is awesome. Vibrant, Sharp, and no dithering.

I have not encountered an AV lag at all (and I have been watching for it)

I did notice some rainbows during dvd viewing (usually during dark scenes) before I reduced the contrast level; adjusting it down and sitting back a little further (now 10 ft back) DOES minimize the rainbow effect, but I feel that the incredible picture quality makes up for it.

Just thought I would mention my great experience thus far, hopefully it will help someone shopping for an RPTV to make a quality decision. As stated earlier in this thread "not many people post there positive reviews", I would hate to see someone make decisions based on other peoples bad experiences, and possible miss out on probably the best RPTV you can buy.

Cheers! :)

Originally posted by OKAYDAVE
I have noticed the same thing and I was wondering if it is the Sammy or the source. I am receiving NBC through TWC.

Is everyone else experiencing this?

I guess this has been answered quite a bit already, but I was out TV shopping during the mens synchronized diving competition, and was in three different stores. Totally noticed the problem, but saw it on DLP, CRT, and LCD TVs. Within the same store, they each had about the same amount of that problem. At different stores, the problem was either better or worse... the sales guys were telling me it was a signal quality issue (from DirecTV), and the fact that different stores were experiencing it to different degrees, but fairly consistently within the stores, led me to believe that they were (in this case) probably correct.

Originally posted by EricScott
Well I spent the better part of my weekend watching TV - finally some HDTV sports!! Between the PGA and the Olympics I think I easily watched 20 hrs this weekend. Today I noticed the smudges on my screen appeared (haven't seen them in a while) and didn't disappear for hours - probably 4 hours. Usually they go away much quicker - like 30 to 45 mins - and are noticeable when I initially turn on the set. Today the smudges didn't appear until maybe 4 hours in and lasted for 4-5 hours. Not a big deal, just interesting that they seem to be behaving differently.

The smudges are a widespread problem and are caused by the anti-glare screen touching the main projection surface. Some sort of anti-static coating, I'm guessing, causes the two screens to stick together when they contact each other for several hours. The contact area, where the two screens touch and stick together, appear as the dark smudges. You can clear the smudges by taking a soft cloth and GENTLY patting the screen around the smudges. This vibrates the two screens apart. You may have to do this several times a day, for the first few days after receiving the TV. Thereafter, it may only be necessary to pat the screens apart weekly. I imagine the screens will eventually stop sticking together for good but haven't had mine long enough to tell.

I have been testing my HLP 56 with both a DVI and Component connection from my HD Pioneer cable box. The DVI connection worked great. Once I switched over to component the analog pic seemed a bit better and HDTV was about the same. The problem that I encountered was with the component connection is when I pressed the guide button on the remote for the Pioneer cable box. The left hand of the screen of the Sammy had vertical color bands (RED, BLUE AND WHITE) running from the top of the screen to the bottom and the picture froze that way. The cable box wouldn't respond either. I had to perform a boot on the cable box to resolve the issue. With this being the case, i picked up a new cable box from TWC. I thought this would resolve the issue, but it happened again with the new cable box as soon as I hit the guide button on the remote.

Can this be a problem with the component input on the Sammy or my component cable or possibly the cable box?
Has anyone else encountered this?

Tonight, I am going to try the other component input on the Sammy to see if this fixes the problem.

Originally posted by freddog
The smudges are a widespread problem and are caused by the anti-glare screen touching the main projection surface. Some sort of anti-static coating, I'm guessing, causes the two screens to stick together when they contact each other for several hours. The contact area, where the two screens touch and stick together, appear as the dark smudges. You can clear the smudges by taking a soft cloth and GENTLY patting the screen around the smudges. This vibrates the two screens apart. You may have to do this several times a day, for the first few days after receiving the TV. Thereafter, it may only be necessary to pat the screens apart weekly. I imagine the screens will eventually stop sticking together for good but haven't had mine long enough to tell.

Well I've had my 5063 for more than 2 months now. Get the smudges every now and then and have never touched the screen to remove them - let them go away on their own. As I mentioned above, what was interesting was that yesterday the smudges lasted longer than they ever have - so apparently this problem happens sporadically and may not necessarily get better over time.

Once again, not a big deal. When watching the PGA, with all of the shots of the bright blue sky or Lake Michigan, it was probably as noticeable as it will ever get. Won't even be able to see it during a football game, I'm guessing.

Originally posted by EricScott
Well I've had my 5063 for more than 2 months now. Get the smudges every now and then and have never touched the screen to remove them - let them go away on their own. As I mentioned above, what was interesting was that yesterday the smudges lasted longer than they ever have - so apparently this problem happens sporadically and may not necessarily get better over time.

Once again, not a big deal. When watching the PGA, with all of the shots of the bright blue sky or Lake Michigan, it was probably as noticeable as it will ever get. Won't even be able to see it during a football game, I'm guessing.

The smudges will, indeed, gradually fade away on their own as the set warms up. What ever substance is causing the screens to stick together seems to get tackier at cooler temperatures. My experience was the same as yours- sometimes the smudges went away after 30 mins, sometimes after a couple of hours. The TV would also go a full week without any smudges, but, eventually, they returned. I stumbled upon the "screen patting" method of smudge removal after I received my 3rd 5063 with the smudge problem.

Originally posted by OKAYDAVE
The problem that I encountered was with the component connection is when I pressed the guide button on the remote for the Pioneer cable box. The left hand of the screen of the Sammy had vertical color bands (RED, BLUE AND WHITE) running from the top of the screen to the bottom and the picture froze that way. The cable box wouldn't respond either. I had to perform a boot on the cable box to resolve the issue. With this being the case, i picked up a new cable box from TWC. I thought this would resolve the issue, but it happened again with the new cable box as soon as I hit the guide button on the remote.

Is it a Pio 3510HD? I have the same problem with TWC. It happened when I had the box pass through all resolutions. Try setting the box to convert everything to 1080i, this solved it for me. Not an ideal solution, but it's better than having to reboot the cable box!

Originally posted by OKAYDAVE
Can this be a problem with the component input on the Sammy or my component cable or possibly the cable box?
Has anyone else encountered this?

Tonight, I am going to try the other component input on the Sammy to see if this fixes the problem.

If you have TWC in NYC you can now get a Scientific Atlanta 3250 HD box by just walking into their 23rd St. office. Previously you needed to make a special request for the box b/c it had firewire outs.

Long story, short, I swapped a Pioneer 3510 (still have another one just in case) for a SA 3250 b/c I couldn't stand the fact that my Pioneer kept turning itself off when I turned my Samsung off (I had the Pioneer hooked up via DVI). I experienced a problem similiar to what you described and to what Vinny mentioned, but only when I hit Guide on 720p channels (ie ABC HD - 707). The new box doesn't have that problem and doesn't randomly reboot. The one negative I've noticed on the new box so far is that I can't get DVI Pass Through to work (worked fine on the Pioneer) - you need to pick a resolution and stick with it, so I chose 720p - looks pretty awesome so far.

With Component, Pass Through works though so if you are using Component this box may be better for you. I haven't tested the guide w/ component on the 3250 to see if it freezes but I doubt it given that it doesn't exhibit the behavior over DVI.

For more info and a more detailed review check out this thread - there are a bunch of posts about the box or feel free to PM me.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4187686#post4187686

HLP4663W
When I was calibrating my 4663 with AVIA it said that the needle test pattern (bending line) was only pretinent to CRTs, not fixed pixel devices. I had a problem with that test in that the test screen would appear for a number of seconds and then the whole screen would go white for a while, then the test screen would appear again.

This same thing happened with several of the geometry tests that use an inverted presentation (white background with black lines). Never happened on my Sony CRT using the same DVD player.

For your blackness test just use the stationary pluge pattern. If your DVD player passes "blacker than black" that should suffice to set brightness correctly.

On your geometry tests, does your set display the image flared out slightly at the bottom? (Crosshatch test or circle test). The image on my set is 4/16" wider at the bottom than the top on the left side and 1/16" wider on the right side. The dealer service guy could not find a service menu item to correct this. A guy on the keohitv.com forum said it would require a light engine adjustment. The Samsung tech is saying 1/4" out is within spec.

I received mine through the Powerbuy on 6/29/04. After powering it down Friday afternoon, I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights when trying to power it back up a few hours later. I finally had time to contact Samsung yesterday and opened a case. I was promised a call today from the Digital Services group and as of 4:45 EST it has not happened. I'm calling them as a type this and have been waiting patiently in the queue for 50+ minutes. Not exactly my idea of prompt customer service.

I was hoping my TV would have been immune to this as I made it more than a month without issues. Just as an FYI, if I let the set sit unplugged for a few hours it will power back on. The first gentleman I spoke with assured me this was the bulb, but from what I have read here, it seems more like a ballast issue. Obviously the bulb works. When they replace the bulb, do they normally bring a new ballast as well?

Thanks,

-Tony

From everything I've read (mine hasn't been shipped yet), you should insist on a new ballast and ensure the tech has one before even coming out. The ballast seems to be the root cause of the majority of 3BL problems on the HLP's, particularly the 50's. Since the ballast was faulty and likely causing stress on the bulb, might as well insist on a new bulb too.

Good luck.

Originally posted by gimphboi
I received mine through the Powerbuy on 6/29/04. After powering it down Friday afternoon, I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights when trying to power it back up a few hours later. I finally had time to contact Samsung yesterday and opened a case. I was promised a call today from the Digital Services group and as of 4:45 EST it has not happened. I'm calling them as a type this and have been waiting patiently in the queue for 50+ minutes. Not exactly my idea of prompt customer service.

I was hoping my TV would have been immune to this as I made it more than a month without issues. Just as an FYI, if I let the set sit unplugged for a few hours it will power back on. The first gentleman I spoke with assured me this was the bulb, but from what I have read here, it seems more like a ballast issue. Obviously the bulb works. When they replace the bulb, do they normally bring a new ballast as well?

Thanks,

-Tony

Tell me about it! I had my 5063 for only 2 weeks and yesterday morning i get the 3 blinking lights. I managed to get it turned on later in the day and now I am leaving the TV ON. As far as samsung customer servce goes, i waited on the phone for over 1 hr to get a hold of someone. They were cordial when i talked to them but man what a wait.

The local service technician in my area(spokane) is SWAMPED with issues with all the new samsung 50 series TVS. He also said it will take 2 weeks to fix my tv! Heck, i only had the TV 2 weeks now i have to give it up for 2 weeks...I am heading to BB today and raising on hell of a fuss about this.

Will keep you all posted, plz do the same.

Originally posted by vlapietra
Is it a Pio 3510HD? I have the same problem with TWC. It happened when I had the box pass through all resolutions. Try setting the box to convert everything to 1080i, this solved it for me. Not an ideal solution, but it's better than having to reboot the cable box!

Yes its the PIO 3510. I am going to try to changing it to 1080i to see if it resolves it. Thanks for the tip. I will let you know if it workds.

Originally posted by vlapietra
Is it a Pio 3510HD? I have the same problem with TWC. It happened when I had the box pass through all resolutions. Try setting the box to convert everything to 1080i, this solved it for me. Not an ideal solution, but it's better than having to reboot the cable box!

Thanks Vinny. It worked. I wish TWC could of advised me of this 3 days ago. By having it set at 1080i, what affect will this have on the pic quality?

I appreciate the help. My wife couldnt live without the guide.

All
I have an hlp4663W (and am almost at the 30 day mark.) I have two issues I don't think I have seen mentioned here

1) The sharpness control has zero affect on the DVI or the Component inputs. Testing was done off satellite for DVI and DVD for component.

2) The picture flares out (becomes wider) at the bottom by 1/4" on the left side and 1/16" on the right side. The left side vertical line in the test pattern is more of an arc than a straight line. This is most visible when watching 4:3 material.

Noone at Samsung so far has been able to give me a definitive answer about the sharpness (it is not greyed out so you can select it and modify it, it just has no affect on the picture.). They have conjectured that it should be disabled on the digital inputs (never considered component to be a digital input but hey what do I know).

Anyone else experiencing this?

Thanks
Tim

Originally posted by timclark
1) The sharpness control has zero affect on the DVI or the Component inputs. Testing was done off satellite for DVI and DVD for component.
:
Anyone else experiencing this?


It seems to me that sharpness only has any effect if DNIe is enabled.

Originally posted by batf
It seems to me that sharpness only has any effect if DNIe is enabled.
A lot of people have DNIe turned off and Sharpness set to zero. That seems to improve PQ around edges.

Have seen no effect of sharpness with DNie on or off. (Have 6163, for 12 days now--no problems of any kind!)

Originally posted by htwaits
A lot of people have DNIe turned off and Sharpness set to zero. That seems to improve PQ around edges.

I've seen that posted a few times but when I tried it I couldn't see any difference. Maybe I'll try again.

With DNIe on, I can definitely see the effect. A good way to see it is to pause the source (if possible) and run the sharpness from 0 to 100 and back. The effect on the image is readily apparent. I did this with an HD DVR via DVI...maybe it's more or less noticeable with component or with SD / DVD.

This is definately a source issue. I have had my Sammy 46" for over a month now and never had an issue like that, even when watching the recent olympics.

Originally posted by millerwill
Have seen no effect of sharpness with DNie on or off. (Have 6163, for 12 days now--no problems of any kind!)

I haven't noticed any effect either when it comes to sharpness. Up down or sideways, it doesn't do anything no matter what settings I have. Not a big deal really, but I'm glad others notice it as well.

One other thing, I have my Sammy 841 hooked up via DVI to my HLP4663. When watching DVD's, I've switched from 480p to 720p to 736p to 1080p and I can't seem to see a real difference between any of them except that the screen bars on top and bottom get larger on the 720p setting. I've used a few different DVD's for the test and still seems the same. I would assume that these differences would be noticeable, but maybe I'm missing an additional setting or something. Anyone have any ideas or comments?

Other than that, I can't be more pleased with the set. It is absolutely AWESOME!! I have compared it to the HD2+ chip and I still thought I had the best looking set in the place for the money. The Mitsu DLP has that glare screen which I can't stand.

Originally posted by cmvsm
One other thing, I have my Sammy 841 hooked up via DVI to my HLP4663. When watching DVD's, I've switched from 480p to 720p to 736p to 1080p and I can't seem to see a real difference between any of them except that the screen bars on top and bottom get larger on the 720p setting.

About the letterbox change in 720p...check that your aspect (P.Size) is WideTV and not WidePC (I think the Samsung defaults to WidePC for 720p over DVI).

You will notice the sharpness setting the most when a PC is connected and if you have DNlie enabled the sharpness setting will reset it self to default when switching frm PC to TV so I keep DNlie turned off all the time. Also had to turn the contrast, brightness, and color way down when it was enabled. Text is very blurry on PC thru DVI unless sharpness is set to zero.

Originally posted by OKAYDAVE
Thanks Vinny. It worked. I wish TWC could of advised me of this 3 days ago. By having it set at 1080i, what affect will this have on the pic quality?

I appreciate the help. My wife couldnt live without the guide.
Glad I could help, considering the enormous amount of help/info I've received on this forum, I'm more than happy to give back a little.
The reason this isn't optimal is b/c the native resolution of your TV is 720p. By setting the box to only output 1080i it has to scale any 720p channel (ABC) to 1080i and then the TV has to scale it back to 720p again...

That's true, but the result depends on the quality of the scaler in the box. My Comcast Motorola 6208 DVR is hooked up to my HLP5063W with a DVI/HDMI cable.

The Moto box also requires you to pick either 1080i or 720p. A majority of HD programming is 1080i, the TV is native 720p.

Common sense dictated that feeding a 720p signal to a 720p TV would be best, but in my case that wasn't so. I found by switching back and forth that 1080i was slightly crisper, apparently because the TV does a better job of downconverting the signal than the cable box. YMMV.

Originally posted by ironmlh
Tell me about it! I had my 5063 for only 2 weeks and yesterday morning i get the 3 blinking lights. I managed to get it turned on later in the day and now I am leaving the TV ON. As far as samsung customer service goes, i waited on the phone for over 1 hr to get a hold of someone. They were cordial when i talked to them but man what a wait.

The local service technician in my area(Spokane) is SWAMPED with issues with all the new samsung 50 series TVS. He also said it will take 2 weeks to fix my tv! Heck, i only had the TV 2 weeks now i have to give it up for 2 weeks...I am heading to BB today and raising on hell of a fuss about this.

Will keep you all posted, plz do the same.

I finally got through this morning. I waited 90 minutes on hold yesterday and finally hung up. I've got a reference number now and am expecting a call from the local shop. I've dealt with these guys in the past (previous HD set) and it was a mixed bag. They fixed the issue, but the parts took two weeks to order. We will see if they are in better shape this go around.

I'm doing the same thing as you. I am turning the set on and leaving it on until I go to bed. The rep at the digital services group told me it was a bulb issue, but I questioned as to whether a bad ballast could also be the cause. He said it was possible. I will try to confirm with the shop that they are bringing both a ballast and new bulb. I will keep everyone up to date.

-Tony

Originally posted by cmvsm
This is definately a source issue. I have had my Sammy 46" for over a month now and never had an issue like that, even when watching the recent olympics.

Sorry, which issue were you referring to? The picture flare out at the bottom? I see that the picture is wider using the Service Menu test patterns, so I don't think it is source related. The test pattern with the 3/4" squares shows it pretty clearly.

Thanks
Tim

Originally posted by wittangamo
That's true, but the result depends on the quality of the scaler in the box. My Comcast Motorola 6208 DVR is hooked up to my HLP5063W with a DVI/HDMI cable.

The Moto box also requires you to pick either 1080i or 720p. A majority of HD programming is 1080i, the TV is native 720p.

Common sense dictated that feeding a 720p signal to a 720p TV would be best, but in my case that wasn't so. I found by switching back and forth that 1080i was slightly crisper, apparently because the TV does a better job of downconverting the signal than the cable box. YMMV.
This isn't the case with his box (3510HD). It allows him to pass through both 720p & 1080i. But the guide problem only manifests itself when the box is sending 720p, that's why he has to force everything to 1080i.
I agree that the TV will do a better job of scaling than the STB, but unfortunately it's causing other problems.

Originally posted by gimphboi
I finally got through this morning. I waited 90 minutes on hold yesterday and finally hung up. I've got a reference number now and am expecting a call from the local shop. I've dealt with these guys in the past (previous HD set) and it was a mixed bag. They fixed the issue, but the parts took two weeks to order. We will see if they are in better shape this go around.

I'm doing the same thing as you. I am turning the set on and leaving it on until I go to bed. The rep at the digital services group told me it was a bulb issue, but I questioned as to whether a bad ballast could also be the cause. He said it was possible. I will try to confirm with the shop that they are bringing both a ballast and new bulb. I will keep everyone up to date.

-Tony

Well i went to BB today after work and after 1.5 hours of waiting around and talking to everyone in the store it seemed i finally got the answer i was looking for, sorta. They are going to replace my TV but they have none in stock and for some reason it will take 18 days to get a new one here.

My tv is currently ON ALL THE TIME. I am afraid if i turn it off I wont get it back on and then i will really be PO'd. But we are leaving out of town this weekend so i fear i must turn it off.

BB was kind enough to get me a replacement, but 18 days seems a bit excessive.

Wittangamo: Please help. I must be doing some trivial thing wrong.

Have a 6163 with Comcast Moto 6200, firmware 7.15, the STB and TV connected via DVI. I am trying to get to the HD "User Settings" menu of the Moto, and I think I'm following the instructions on pg 10 of the 6200 User Guide: with TV on and DCT off, I press 'menu' on the Comcast remote, but the "User Settings" menu does not come up on the TV screen. I see "16:9" flash on the STB window for an instant, and then nothing else.

Can you see something that I'm not doing correctly? (I would like to experiment, as you describe, with setting the DVI output to 1080i or 720p.)

Thanks for any suggestions!

Geometry issues?

I went to look at the HLP sets today at Sears, Best Buy and CC. The sets at all three places had geometry issues with any picture smaller than the screen. Any material that was wider than 16x9 showed bowing at the top and bottom of the image. I measured it on the set a Sears and the image was about 1/8" lower in the center than the edges. In 4x3 mode, I could see the issue on all sides.

Has anyone else seen this?

I have an issue that I don't recall seeing in this forum. I have a HLP5663. I get a reddish/pinkish tint from time to time. I have seen it on both HD and DVD broadcasts, so I don't believe its a source problem. It usually appears on skin, but in other places as well. It looks sort of like a rash. It only seems to happen when the programming is very dark. I've fiddled with the adjustments but it haven't found a cure. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

Rampant compression artifacts?

I just got Comcast HDTV (motorola box) connected through DVI cable - and while Hi Def is beautiful, standard def looks terrible with what looks like compression artifacts everywhere, making the image almost blurry. I also see this (though not as bad) when watching DVDs via a conmpsite cable.

Is anyone else seeing this?

Thanks!

I've had my HLP5663W about two weeks now and I must say the experience has been terrific. The picture is great, no rainbows, lines or other problems. In fact, two friends were over last week, I put Discovery HD Theater on from the satellite and they couldn't wait to get the store the next day to buy their's. Phenomenal.

One question though . . . I'm using HDMI from my 10-250 HD PVR and get no internal sound through the Sammy. I've turned Dolby off on the PVR and tried a lot of different things. Any advice?

Dorran

Millerwill: For some odd reason, the HD menus flash and don't come up when you hit the remote. You have to do this by the menu button on the box, and the cursor buttons on the box. Annoying, since you ahve to then go back to a proper viewing distance o see the effects.
At least before today with 7.10. 7.15 was overnighted here to Philly, and though I checked the new channel numbers and settings, I did not check to see if there was a change here for this.

dorran,

I am not 100% sure because I have a HLN567W, But I believe that the HLP's do not accept sound via HDMI. I think The Sammy only accepts video via HDMI and treats the port just like DVI requiring you to connect separate L/R audio cables to the set. On my set, there is one set of L/R audio connectors shared between the DVI port and the VGA port. Try hooking up L/R audio and I bet the internal speakers will work.

millerwill,

It may be a firmware problem as implot suggests. My Moto 6208 has 7.07. With the TV and PVR both on in normal viewing mode, I simply use the remote to turn the PVR off. When I quickly hit the menu button on the remote, 16:9 flashes and a white screen comes up with the output settings. Change that to what I want and hit the power button again and I'm back watching cable at the new resolution.

I can't explain why it's not working that way for you.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by papaek
[B]Geometry issues?

I measured it on the set a Sears and the image was about 1/8" lower in the center than the edges. In 4x3 mode, I could see the issue on all sides.

My second HLP had this problem except it was even worst. The first one died with the ballast/3 blinking light problem and second one had bad geometry issues. My 50" had a 1/4" dip in the center top of the screen. Of course you could only notice this on movies shown in OAR that had letter boxing. You could not notice any distortion in full screen material. I exchanged my last one for the JVC D-ILA and could not be happier.

Panic 66,

Seems Sammy has some terrible QC and reliability issues. Too bad, the PQ can be excellent on these sets.

Ken

If you are interested in getting the most out of your Samsung HLN, or HLP display, I suggest you read this review. It includes connection recommendations, and HDTV service evaluations as well.

I've had my HLP 4663w for about three weeks and am pleased with it.

My previous experience was with a HLN437W1 and it had too many issues and necessary tweaks to get it to work. For instance I could not get the colors to look right until I started to mess with the service menu. Even after that I could not get any components other then HD to look watchable with or without the DNle enabled. This TV had a pixel look that just would not go away.

I Also tried the Sony GW III. This TV despite what other might say looks great with HD material. It the damn thing could have done blacks better, I might have stayed with it. SD and DVD looked all right, but nothing to write home about.

Now on to the decision making process:

I got a chance to see and tweak the Mitsubishi and Toshiba DLPs in Best Buy before I made my decision. The Mitsubishi looked great out of the box with factory defaults, and so did the Toshiba (I'm an old Toshiba fan). Now both of these sets use the HD2+ chip, but both of them suffer from the same sharpness control as the HLN HD2 displays. Though the HD looked great, DVDs and standard def (lets face it, we have to watch this occasionally) wasn't impressive at all. The Mits had a full jack-pack and the obnoxious glare screen that can be removed. It was way too expensive for me at the time (it was my second choice). The Toshiba did not have enough inputs for my needs. It also had those ugly speakers (WAF would not let me get this one).

The Samsung impressed me in the store right away. With HD material it was stellar (maybe not quite as sharp as the other 2 sets). The details in the dark were just as good if not better then the HD2+ sets. After turning off the NDle and the sharpness down to 30, the images looked more natural then the other sets. The details are definitely still there, just more like a CRT based display. It was also $500 dollars less and offered 2 component, 1 RGB, 1 DVI, & 1 HDMI (more on this later) input.

Reality tests and results:

DVD
Got the TV home, and after a quick calibration with DVE, and some color adjustments in the Menu/PC area (this allows you to make the gray scale closer to accurate) the picture looked great.

Now for folks out there who have DVD players that use component, or DVI, the PQ of this box will be good, but not great. With the HLN and the HLP I stumbled on to something I would like to share.

I have three DVD players: The Panasonic RP91, RP56, and the Philips Q50. All of these are top rated players and look great on CRT and RPTV displays supporting 480p. Though the RP91 did not do great on the DVD player shootout, it has arguably the best PQ of any player I have experienced. It also has a built in scaler!! Through the component inputs of the HLP and the HLN these players looked good, but not great.

I decided to get the latest in technology , took a chance and tried the Samsung HD931, Zenith DVB-318, and the Bravo D1 – DVI. I tried them all at the 3 resolutions they support over DVI (480p, 720p, & 1080i). I use the reference quality material of the Superbit DVDs Fifth Element, Starship Troopers, and Gladiator. Honestly they looked a bit better then the previously mentioned players, but again nothing that made me say wow.

One night I was using my laptop and playing PC gases through the TVs RGB inputs and decided to play a DVD. To my surprise, it looked fantastic. The DVD I was watching was the Criterion version of the Rock. The TV was showing the picture as 720p since that was what the computer was scaled to.

I then decided to pull out my iScan Plus, attached it through my TVs RGB input, and connected my DVD player through it. It looked real nice, but the iScan makes DVD players look softer because it only accepts S-video and composite inputs. Though it was a soft picture, it looked better then all of the DVD tests I had ran before. I the remembered that I had a Component to RGB adapter I had bought to connect my HDTV tuner to my computer. Connected that baby up and you know something…it looked great again in 480p mode. This 480p blew away the other players I tested in 480p, 720p, and 1080i mode (no comparison). I have had others look at the comparison and they agree…VGA wins!!

HDTV
I have tried a total of three different HDTV services 4 set top boxes, and three input options with this display. Voom, DirecTV, and Comcast.

RGB: All STBs look great on the RGB input. I just had mine reserved for the DVD player, so on the other connections.
DVI: All STBs look great through this input. Too bad there is only one!!
HDMI: I have tried 2 different DVI to HDMI cables (one mother, and one better cables) and I could not get this input to look good. In fact it appears to add compression artifacts. Just to put it out there I calibrate all of my inputs before drawing conclusions. Now maybe an actual HDMI to HDMI connection would look good, but I don’t have one to test.
Component: Not as good as DVI, or RGB, but still sweet.

At some point I will probably have this TV professionaly calibrated, but I am going to make sure it is not a lemon first.


Services
Voom: HD originals have way too much compression and are not interesting enough to watch most of the time. Other HD content is top-notch, but ate 139 dollars for VavaVoom and 3 STBs is a bite not worth taking. Locals are OTA except for NBC and at the price they are charging they should be included. Still a new service and can only get better with time. Will look them up in a year or so.

Directv: Too much compression!! Not enough HD content Prices have gone up too much recently. HDNet is cool, but not enough sports. Locals are OTA except for CBS. They want a one year commitment to get any deals.

Comcast: A little compression, but not too distracting. InHD1, InHD2, DiscoveryHD, StarzHD, CinemaxHD, HBOHD, ShowtimeHD, ESPNHD, + locals for $80 a month with 3 STBs (dish buy back option makes it this price). Cable has come a long way.

Equipment list:

Samsung HLP4663W
LG LST3410A (gets all Comcast channels except for Starz, and Cinemax)
Comcast (Motorola DCT6100 no Tivo yet)
Panasonic RP91 w/component to VGA adapter
Denon AVR3600
Polk RM7200

Toshiba TW40X81 (Calibrated by ISF tech Robert Busch)
Panasonic RP56
Comcast (Motorola DCT6100)

Samsung TXN3075WHF
Philips Q50
Comcast (Motorola DCT6100)

I just got my HLP6163 less than 24 hours ago and it already has developed a fatal problem. When turned on, it reports a fan failure (fan #1) and shows no picture. I've got a replacement coming on Saturday.

A search revealed no issues with fan failures. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

You don't have long to wait, but you might try unplugging the set or reseating the bulb according to the directions in the manual. I guess it's possible for a fan to fail or they wouldn't have a light for it, but like you I haven't read any reports of that happening.

Just wanted to see if anyone knows of the shipping date on the Xhd3 chip from samsung. Also, anyone have any info on the new Panasonic DLP with a 8 segment color wheel and HD+2 chip?

c130pilot,

http://www.digiupdate.com/105_DLP_RPTV.html is probably the best source of info. on this.

TI isn't releasing the xHD3 for production until late '04. Which means you probably won't see it any any sets until at least mid '05. And according to the link, Sammy has plans for a unit on the chip in Sept '05.

Panasonic w/ 8-seg color wheel (http://www.tvauthority.com/DLP-TV-HDTV/Panasonic-PT-50DL54.asp)

CCourtney

PS: It would be TI that ships the DLP chips not samsung. So I assumed you meant Samsung shipping a TV based on the chip.

Wittangamo, and anyone else who might be interested:

I discovered the solution to the problem I noted above (couldn't get the 'User Settings' menu of the 6200 Moto stb to come up on my TV [hlp 6163] screen. With the TV on, and the 6200 off, one is supposed to press 'menu' on the 6200 remote, and the menu is supposed to pop up. What happened was the '16:9' would flash in the 6200 window and then nothing happened>

The problem was that I was pressing down on the 'menu' buttom TOO LONG! It has to be a very quick 'press and release', or else the menu comes up and then disappears [to exit from the menu when it is up, one hits the 'menu' buttom again].

So in the end, it was something trivial (as usually seems to be the casse, especially for a novice). But it is certainly GREAT to have this forum to try learn about all these nuances. (COMCAST is certainly no help.) Thanks to all of you that take the time to help out.

One other elementary question:

I have seen various discussions about whether 1080i or 720p sent out of the 6200 stb to the HLP gives a sharper picture; I seem to feel that the 1080i output is marginally sharper, but will it be blurrier on fast action, e.g., the NFL? Also, I suppose that it is a 'no brainer' that the SD output should be set to 480p, right?

I can tell you how it works on my Moto 6208 with DVI. I thought outputting 720p, the native resolution of my HLP, would be best. I was surprised to see that 1080i was sharper, apparently because the TV does a better job of scaling than the STB.

With a source that is 720p, like Monday Night Football on ABC, I see very little difference either way. There is a difference in how 720p and 1080i handle fast action -- 720p has faster framerate and is theoretically better in that regard -- but that should only show up in the source feed, not when the signal is scaled up or down in an STB or TV.

I wound up setting the STB output to 1080i and leaving it there.

I have the 4:3 override set to off. 480i doesn't work because DVI won't pass an interlaced signal, and if I recall correctly from my limited experiments with 480p it interfered with my ability to select a 4:3 aspect ratio and wound up stretching SD programs. I could be wrong about that one, but I'm not at the set and am too lazy to research before posting.

It's easy enough to try the different settings for yourself and make your own choices.

DVI cannot pass a 480i signal. It can all others.

Dont think I would set 480i to scale to 480p that would be double scaling after TV scales to 720p. That could cause video delay also I would think.

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like I really need to look at the 480 setting closely, and the suggestions from all of you that 'off' is probably the best.

On my Moto 6200, Comcast in Phila., 7.15 firmware (or our prior 7.10)
If Override is set to 480p, then all non HD comes in at 16:9, whether it's widescreen or not. In other words, stretched.
We do not believe in altering aspect.
If 480i selected, then only the HD comes through my DVI, you have to use the S input for the non-HD stations (we did not set it up on Component).
This is not worth the trouble as except for a few certain regular SD cable stations that are source scrambled I can get them fine using the cable to antenna feed (sacrificing the guide). And meanwhile all the digital stations that the box IS needed (channel 100 and up) for anyway look better via DVI.
So we leave Override "off".
And use 1080i since all the HD stations are broadcast in that except ABC, ESPN, and soon FOX. I think we have noticed a small improvement trying ESPN in 720p, and would probably make the change to 720p for a long game where I could stay that way.

Implot: Thanks for the info!

Wittangamo,

Thanks for the feedabck. I tried those things with no luck. BB should be here this afternoon with a new set.

Sorry you got a lemon. It really is a great set and I'm sure you'll love the new one.

Originally posted by lmplot
If Override is set to 480p, then all non HD comes in at 16:9, whether it's widescreen or not. In other words, stretched.

I don't have this problem....I have 4:3 override set to 480p and the HLP's aspect set to 4:3 and there's no stretching. I think the TV did default to stretch mode the first time but after changing it to 4:3 once it now "remembers" to go to 4:3 when it sees a 480p signal. HD sources are still displayed "Wide", as they should be.

Oh, also, these setting seem to be input specific because my DVD player is 480p and HLP aspect Wide and it remembers this as well.

6208->HLP via DVI
YPbPr: 1080i
4:3 Override: 480p

I found 1080i to be a little better than 720p for 1080i sources (which is most of my HD content). I found 480p to be quite a bit better than 1080i for SD sources.

This indicates the TV probably has a better scaler than the settop. Also note: the 480i -> 480p conversion being done by the settop is a de-interlacing operation, not a scaling operation.

I watch SD in 4:3 mode. If the TV is on for more than a few hours in a row, a dotted line will form on the right hand side of the 4:3 box just outside of the picture. It is less than a centimeter outdside the picture and is a bright white dotted line from top to bottom. The line remains if I switch to another 4:3 channel, but disappears when I swith to 16:9 channel. If I switch back to the 4:3 channel from 16:9 quickly, then the line will reappear on the 4:3 channel. If I watch the 16:9 channel for a while though and then switch back to the 4:3 channel, the line is gone, for a while atleast. This seems really weird to me. Also, the line never shows up on the left hand side. Anybody experience this or know what this is?

I haven't experienced or read about that specific symptom before. Purely guessing, I would suspect an overheating or malfunctioning STB before anything in the set. Anyone else have a theory?

Once upon a time, if you had Voom, problems like this would occur if you set your STB to 720p. But it would happen almost always. Try this with other inputs, or other devices on the same input, if possible. If you call Samsung, that's probably what they'll tell you to try. It does sound like a STB malfunction to me also.

HLP5063W connected via DVI cable to TS-360 reciever (DirecTV). Running a direct RG-6 cable from OTA antenna to reciever.

Sporadically, will suddenly get 1-2 second video drop outs. Screen goes completely black and audio stays intact. Will do this intermittently for a period of time. May go for a whole day without any incidents and then suddenly it will start misbehaving. I have replaced the TS-360 under warranty without any change. Still have the problem. Doesn't matter if it is an OTA signal or DirecTV signal.

Also, after watching for a period of time, will suddenly start "speckling". hard to notice until you change a channel and get a black screen for a second. Notice a number of random, colored, pixels "racing" around the screen. Power down the receiver and the TV and they will go away.

Any thoughts?

Update: Called Samsung customer support. They are sending out a technician next week with a new engine. Just like that. No hassle, no haggle.

I got my replacement HL-P6163 yesterday and so far everything's OK. I have noticed one anomaly that I cannot find an explanation for in Samsung's spec sheet or on this forum.

I am using a Samsung TS360 DirecTV HD STB connected via DVI. If I set the STB to output 720p, the 6163 complains that the signal format is not supported. 1080i is OK. If I use a component connection, the 6163 accepts either 720p or 1080i. I would think that the DVI input should support both formats, especially since 720p seems to be the native format of the set.

Samsung's spec sheet lists support for all the different formats for the component inputs but says nothing about the DVI or HDMI inputs. Is it that DVI and HDMI by definition support only 1080i??

No, both formats are supported by DVI and HDMI. What you're seeing is a copy-protection handshake issue. It's come up before with other STBs, and for some reason 720p is the one that seems to muck up with Sammys.

One quick thing to try is to see if turning on the TV before the STB, or vice versa, allows them to synch up. It's like whether the handshake is accepted depends on which hand is extended first ;>)

You might want to see if Samsung has a firmware update for the TS360 or check in the HDTV hardware forum to see if anyone else has run into the same problem. Otherwise you could buy or borrow an inexpensive DVI/HDMI cable or adapter to see if the other digital input has the same issue.

Originally posted by Unrealtard
HLP5063W connected via DVI cable to TS-360 reciever (DirecTV). Running a direct RG-6 cable from OTA antenna to reciever.

Sporadically, will suddenly get 1-2 second video drop outs. Screen goes completely black and audio stays intact. Will do this intermittently for a period of time. May go for a whole day without any incidents and then suddenly it will start misbehaving. I have replaced the TS-360 under warranty without any change. Still have the problem. Doesn't matter if it is an OTA signal or DirecTV signal.

Also, after watching for a period of time, will suddenly start "speckling". hard to notice until you change a channel and get a black screen for a second. Notice a number of random, colored, pixels "racing" around the screen. Power down the receiver and the TV and they will go away.

Any thoughts? I had the dropout problems on my set, only with component inputs. Samsung is replacing the TV, because the set has a myriad of other problems. It sound like you should call Samsung since you've eliminated the STB as the problem.

Edit: Just saw witt. post. I'm not sure which it is. I know there have been HDCP issues with various products, but usually these demonstrate themselves with complete blackouts, not just intermittent ones. Right? But definitely try what he suggests first. Then, if you've eliminated the STB as the problem, call Samsung for TV service.

For those no longer subscribed to the Power Buy thread, I thought I'd let everyone know that the 'base' on the 6163 is removable.

Samsung CSR folks and the product specialist apparently don't even know it has a base on it, unlike the rest of the 63 series lineup, and still says that the dimensions are as posted on their website, even though I've instructed them that they are incorrect. Each time I talk to them, they basically tell me I'm crazy.

Well, I removed mine today. It's only attached with screws.

For pics of the 6163 with base removed, see my gallery.........

Originally posted by djacobs
For pics of the 6163 with base removed, see my gallery.........
You have a clean installation. What sort of access do you have for cable connections?

Originally posted by htwaits
You have a clean installation. What sort of access do you have for cable connections?

Thanks......The wall that you see there is built 3 feet off of the basement wall, and it's plenty big since when I designed it I was originally going to buy a CRT. I have a door to the left that's in a closet that leads to the area behind the tv and the components. I just cut holes in the drywall behind each component for my wiring.........

Originally posted by djacobs
I just cut holes in the drywall behind each component for my wiring.........
Now why wouldn't my wife let me do that with a wall shared by our living-room and a bedroom? :rolleyes:

Originally posted by htwaits
Now why wouldn't my wife let me do that with a wall shared by our living-room and a bedroom? :rolleyes:

Hmm,,,good luck with that one......

Originally posted by djacobs
For those no longer subscribed to the Power Buy thread, I thought I'd let everyone know that the 'base' on the 6163 is removable.

Samsung CSR folks and the product specialist apparently don't even know it has a base on it, unlike the rest of the 63 series lineup, and still says that the dimensions are as posted on their website, even though I've instructed them that they are incorrect. Each time I talk to them, they basically tell me I'm crazy.

Well, I removed mine today. It's only attached with screws.

For pics of the 6163 with base removed, see my gallery.........

djacobs,

I have a HLP 6163 on order. I'm confused when you say the "base" is removable. Which part of the TV are you referring to? I looked at the pictures in your gallery, and they all look like the normal 6163 to me....Not that I'm contesting your statements, just trying to find out what you removed, to see if I would like to do the same.

Thanks for any info.

Bill Alexander
Than

Originally posted by billalexander
djacobs,

I have a HLP 6163 on order. I'm confused when you say the "base" is removable. Which part of the TV are you referring to? I looked at the pictures in your gallery, and they all look like the normal 6163 to me....Not that I'm contesting your statements, just trying to find out what you removed, to see if I would like to do the same.

Thanks for any info.

Bill Alexander
Than

Well, it looks the same because I already removed the base! ;)

Below is a link to a pic of someone else's setup of their 6163 with the base attached. It's similar to the HLN model in it's look, but the construction is totally different. The HLN base was molded into the cabinet and the HLP base is just screwed in.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4150029&fullpage=1

I'm confused when you say the "base" is removable. Which part of the TV are you referring to?

billalexander,
The first recipients of the Samsung HLP6163W were surprised to find that it had a ~1" base attached to the bottom of the unit. It's a piece of plastic that extends several inches in front of and in back of the bottom of the TV. None of the documentation from Samsung (or any retailer) mentioned a base, and none of the photographs showed it.

Thanks for the info djacobs and avhound. The picture showed exactly what you were talking about. Like you mentioned, that base is not pictured in any of Samsung's photos, and is a complete surprise to me. I will be removing mine as soon as the tv arrives. Thanks again for the info.

Bill Alexander

Originally posted by billalexander
Thanks for the info djacobs and avhound. The picture showed exactly what you were talking about. Like you mentioned, that base is not pictured in any of Samsung's photos, and is a complete surprise to me. I will be removing mine as soon as the tv arrives. Thanks again for the info.

Bill Alexander

You're welcome Bill.

Since you haven't seen my multiple posts on the issue in one of the other forums, just keep in mind that the dimensions posted on Samsung's site do not include the base.

Don't I get a credit for the original pic with the base :D

... just kidding...

Thanks for the picture of the HLP with "base" chris523;)

I actually just sent you a PM about your TV stand. Could you provide any info on place of purchase?

Bill Alexander

lol, in the link it clearly says 'Posted by Chris523' in the credits under the picture...;)

And Chris, thanks again for that timely pic and the height measurement that evening. Although I couldn't get anything out of Samsung, it allowed me to formulate a plan, which did come through....

After seeing my pics, you probably understand why I was sweating bullets after seeing your pic....

djacobs,

Your set up looks wonderful and I can see why you were concerned. Glad everything worked out.

BTW, I really was only kidding...

-C

Originally posted by chris523
djacobs,

Your set up looks wonderful and I can see why you were concerned. Glad everything worked out.

BTW, I really was only kidding...

-C

Thanks Chris.....

And I realized you were kidding....I just thought it was funny because before I posted that link I was originally going to post the link to your post, rather than the picture itself. After I remembered that the IDs are under all the pics, I just posted the link to your pic to save everyone a click.......

I wouldnt' want to get busted by any copyright laws in this forum.......

Originally posted by djacobs
Well, it looks the same because I already removed the base! ;)

Below is a link to a pic of someone else's setup of their 6163 with the base attached. It's similar to the HLN model in it's look, but the construction is totally different. The HLN base was molded into the cabinet and the HLP base is just screwed in.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4150029&fullpage=1

Where is the centre channel?

I have been reading and researching for a TV through this forum and it has been great. It has been about a month now and my head is still spinning. So I made it easy. Bought the HLP6163 plugged it in, grabbed the remote and watched tv. The TWC guy came out hooked up the Highdef box. I switched remotes and started flicking. Havent had a hearing or eye check up in a long time but everything looks and sounds great. HD is really awesome. Just need more of it.
Thanks for all the info.

My 5063, April made, start making static noise. It must be from TV's internal speaker, because the noise disappear when internal speaker off setting is on. Is it a common problem or a unique? Any quick remedy? Right now I cannot use TV's internal speaker. Thank you in advance.

Question re PIP:

My HLP 6163 is connected to a COMCAST Moto 6200 via DVI, but I don't seem to be able to use PIP, i.e., to look at one TV channel on the main screen and another channel on the PIP window. Am I not doing something right, or is this not possible? Thanks for any info!

Samsung has finally updated their site with the technical drawing on the 6163 that shows the 'pedestal base'........and it notes that it is removable....;)

Of course there is no note of this on the specs or size tabs.......

See pages 58 & 59 on manual. PIP doesn't work with DVI or HDMI or PC or component or ANT 2.

Originally posted by djacobs
Samsung has finally updated their site with the technical drawing on the 6163 that shows the 'pedestal base'........and it notes that it is removable....;)

Of course there is no note of this on the specs or size tabs.......

And ironically enough, just as I posted this, the mgr of customer service called me back on my cell phone, a week late, and asked about the dimensional discrepancy I was inquiring about with customer service last week. I explained it to her, gave her some suggestions, which she is going to pass onto marketing to clean up their website and brochures...........

Originally posted by oldavnut
Any quick remedy?

The only quick remedy is what you did already. Call for service.

No PIP on DVI input? This is a bummer.

Originally posted by millerwill
No PIP on DVI input? This is a bummer.

You can keep DVI in the main (full screen) window and watch something else in a small window. I actually have been doing this quite a bit lately. Watching something in HD (sometimes the olympics) while watching the primetime Olympic coverage in a sub window. If/when something interesting comes on, I switch to SD and turn PIP off.

I am interested in opinions or experience regarding two common issues with the HLP 5063s that I am also experiencing.

1. I have some video delay (audio/video sync) when I use the surround sound receiver and the TV only on regular channels (fine on digital and HDTV). I have tested the TV with video and sound going directly to the TV and video and sound sync seems fine on all channels. I am assuming the delay is with extra processing on the receiver end. I played with receiver distance delays but can't quite remove all the delay on all channels.

(a) am I correct that the issue is most likely not the typical older HLN video/audio synch?

(b) am I correct that I should not have the analog board replaced as it may introduce new problems? This was one suggestion from tech support and concerns me. Has anyone with 5063s have had this issue fixed with a different board?

2. I have the smudges on my screen. I was thinking that if later models (mine is June) fixed that, that I would replace the TV. Tech support says there is no magic release that takes care of it, but they can come out and replace the screen.

Has anyone had experience with replacing the screens? Does that open the door to other problems and may not be worth it? Does it really fix the issue? I am wondering about waiting for a few months, seeing if samsung has more experience in the field with screen replacement, and then opting for that option...

Any thoughts, recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I've got a July build HLP6163. I cannot adjust tint settings over component inputs. Am I alone with this problem, or was this an original design by Samsung? I thought you could only not adjust tint settings over DVI??

Originally posted by rzahavi
I am interested in opinions or experience regarding two common issues with the HLP 5063s that I am also experiencing.

1. I have some video delay (audio/video sync) when I use the surround sound receiver and the TV only on regular channels (fine on digital and HDTV). I have tested the TV with video and sound going directly to the TV and video and sound sync seems fine on all channels. I am assuming the delay is with extra processing on the receiver end. I played with receiver distance delays but can't quite remove all the delay on all channels.

(a) am I correct that the issue is most likely not the typical older HLN video/audio synch?

(b) am I correct that I should not have the analog board replaced as it may introduce new problems? This was one suggestion from tech support and concerns me. Has anyone with 5063s have had this issue fixed with a different board?

2. I have the smudges on my screen. I was thinking that if later models (mine is June) fixed that, that I would replace the TV. Tech support says there is no magic release that takes care of it, but they can come out and replace the screen.

Has anyone had experience with replacing the screens? Does that open the door to other problems and may not be worth it? Does it really fix the issue? I am wondering about waiting for a few months, seeing if samsung has more experience in the field with screen replacement, and then opting for that option...

Any thoughts, recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I have an April build. Slight video/audio sync problem with certain DVD's and on occasion some tv programs. In my experimentation, I find the problem exists whether going through the tv sound system or going through my home theatre system. For the time being I am not worrying about the problem as it very slight and only happens on occasion.
Have no info on the analog board replacement issue.

Do not have any smudges. However, I have read other posts regarding the smudges, most say they go away with time or to lightly clean your screen with a soft moistened (water only) cloth.

Well after 18 months of various issues with my HLM617W I am now getting a HLP6163W. Look forward to having it in 10 days or so.

I'll be using it with a Samsung SIR-TS160 STB via component and a Arcam DV88+/SiI504 DVD player via component. I might audition a HDMI equipped Arcam DVD player (Diva DV79 or FMJ DV29) as a possible upgrade once the TV shows up. When the HD DirecTivos come down in price I plan to get one to replace the 160.

Here's hoping I have no issues with the new set.

Dean

Have had my new HLP5063 (June S. Korea build from CC) for almost a week, no problems so far. Hooked to an Insight Mot6200 with DVR via DVI. As most folks agree, HD is awesome, SD is adequate (but see below). I unfortunately have a limited HD selection at present. Have the 6200 set to 1080i (looks slightly better than 720p IMO), 4:3 override at 480p. No DVE calibration yet, but will get it soon. My questions are:

1: I DID NOT buy the service plan. AM I NUTS? Thing was, they were charging $600 for 4 years! That'll buy at least a couple bulbs... I asked the mgr why BB's 4 yr only costs $400. He claimed that CC's plan will replace the TV, whereas BB will refund your plan $$ if the repair exceeds the plan value. Huh?? Is he full of it? Should I go back and try to negotiate some more, or just forget about it?

2: SD looks much better when using straight cable feed into "ANT1" vs through the HD box via DVI. The SD picture is much noisier via DVI or any other output from the 6200 (I have had 2 boxes, both the same). As I said, HD is great. Insight says they are aware that the Mot box makes SD look noisy (too much A/D conversion going on I guess?). This is NOT an HLP issue, it did the same with my Tosh 50" rpcrt. Apparently there will be some remedy to this in a few months, a new box I guess. Anyone else have this isue with the 6200? Maybe it's only on units w/ DVRs...

Originally posted by E28M5
He claimed that CC's plan will replace the TV, whereas BB will refund your plan $$ if the repair exceeds the plan value. Huh?? Is he full of it? Should I go back and try to negotiate some more, or just forget about it?

That doesn't sound right at all! I was always under the impression that BB's service plans would replace the item with another (or something similar if newer models were available) if it broke, no matter how much the plan cost. If that's really what the BB guy said to you, I would say it's a bunch of hooey and go talk to someone else. Maybe even find a manager and tell him what that guy told you.

Originally posted by EricScott
You can keep DVI in the main (full screen) window and watch something else in a small window. I actually have been doing this quite a bit lately. Watching something in HD (sometimes the olympics) while watching the primetime Olympic coverage in a sub window. If/when something interesting comes on, I switch to SD and turn PIP off.

What is the other source you are using to view PIP. I have my cable hooked up through a Motorola 6200 box via DVI.

Do you have a cable going from the box to the ANT 1 input?

I would like very much to use PIP but so far have not been successful.

Originally posted by E28M5


1: I DID NOT buy the service plan. AM I NUTS? Thing was, they were charging $600 for 4 years! That'll buy at least a couple bulbs... I asked the mgr why BB's 4 yr only costs $400. He claimed that CC's plan will replace the TV, whereas BB will refund your plan $$ if the repair exceeds the plan value. Huh?? Is he full of it? Should I go back and try to negotiate some more, or just forget about it?



You can just go to BB and get their plan. It doesn't matter where you got the TV from. I bought my TV from CC and got the plan at BB.

I asked the guys at CC if they could give me the same price as BB, but they kept trying to come up with excuses as to why their plan was better. They said that their plan covers bulb replacement, but BB doesn't. I said BB covers the bulbs too. CC guy then says they have unlimited surge protection, but BB doesn't. I said BB has unlimted surge protection too. CC guy says they have in-home service, but BB doesn't. I said BB has in-home service too. CC guy then says we will replace the TV if it doesn't work, but BB doesn't. I gave up and just went to BB to get the extended warranty.

Finally got my Sammy HLP 6163 from TVA this past Tuesday. I would have to say waiting for this set has been long but worth every minute. I instantly took off the base and placed it into my new cabinet. Boy does it look good. Then I turned it on, connected a Bravo D2 player to the Sammy via a 2m DVI cable and set it to 720P. I put in video essentials and tried to calibrate it for about 2 hours and got frustrated. After some fiddling around finally, I watched the Last Samurai, Matrix, and the Fifth Element and would have to tell you it looks amazing. I just wanted to know if anyone else has this same hook up and what your settings for brightness, contrast and the color settings are? I cant seem to be able to adjust the tint level what so ever. Anyone have a take on this?

Also I was watching all 3 movies withe DNIE demo on and was wondering what your take on this is. For some reason, with the DNIE on, the blacks look better and it seems that the picture becomes a little bit brighter and clearer. Also my settings on the tv are as follows
:
Contrast: 42
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 0
Tint 48

I can't seem to adjust the tint and will go and buy AVIA this weekend to see if I can get it to look any better.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by kengster
I instantly took off the base and placed it into my new cabinet.

How did you take off the base...is it unstable without the base?

Originally posted by jwv651
[QUOTE]Originally posted by kengster
I instantly took off the base and placed it into my new cabinet.

How did you take off the base...is it unstable without the base?

It's just 10 small screws.........not as stable as with the base, but not too bad.....

Originally posted by sisert
You can just go to BB and get their plan. It doesn't matter where you got the TV from. I bought my TV from CC and got the plan at BB.


Very Interesting, I think I will do that, thanks!

If that is the case, has anyone purchased any other extended warranty services for these tvs?

Well, I had a service guy come out and replace my ballast in my HLP6163. I had one instance of the dreaded "3 blinking lights" problem. The customer service was excellent! I called on Tuesday and he came out on Wednesday. It took him all of 10 minutes to replace it.

I briefly talked to him and he really likes the Sammys. He has been working on them a while. They were expecting alot more issues with the new HLP models, but that hasnt been the case so far. This problem with the ballast has been the only issue that he has seen.

I didn't buy the extended warranty initially, but he suggested that I do, so I found the repairmaster warranty 4yr plan on the net (alot cheaper than TVA too! ;)).

So far, I love my new tv and am glad that I made the purchase.

BTW - I like DNIe on, except for xbox games...anyone else notice this??

Originally posted by E28M5
Very Interesting, I think I will do that, thanks!

If that is the case, has anyone purchased any other extended warranty services for these tvs?

I haven't done it yet as I'm still waiting on my powerbuy 5063, but I plan to purchase Sears' service plan on it when it arrives. It's a five year plan that supercedes the first year manufacturer's warranty, if you so desire, and covers bulb replacement and yearly preventative maintenance.

Has anyone with a loud color wheel had success with having Samsung come out to fix it? Is the problem widespread? Is the fix simple? I hear more about the three blinking lights problems, but I have read at least a few complaints about loud color wheels. I assume it is the color wheel that is making the noise because when I turn off the TV the noise continues for a short while, then it tapers off as the wheel spins down. At first I though it was just me, but everyone I have demoed the TV for can hear it. :( The silence is obvious when I leave the room with the TV in it.

I haven't called Samsung yet because the HD cable feed takes priority, as not being able to see HD is more annoying than the high-pitched whine from the TV.

Originally posted by seaeye
Has anyone with a loud color wheel had success with having Samsung come out to fix it? Is the problem widespread? Is the fix simple? I hear more about the three blinking lights problems, but I have read at least a few complaints about loud color wheels. I assume it is the color wheel that is making the noise because when I turn off the TV the noise continues for a short while, then it tapers off as the wheel spins down. At first I though it was just me, but everyone I have demoed the TV for can hear it. :( The silence is obvious when I leave the room with the TV in it.

I haven't called Samsung yet because the HD cable feed takes priority, as not being able to see HD is more annoying than the high-pitched whine from the TV.

Since it stays on for a bit after you turn it off, I bet it is the fan. As in front projectors, the fan stays on a bit to cool it down before shutdown.

I doubt that the color wheel keeps spinning much after shutdown.

I have had my 5063 a week now, The input is the samsung SIR-TS360 directtv receiver. DVD is a cheap DVD/VCR combo. I am picking up local channels very poorly with a TERK TV44 POS antenna.

So far HDTV and DVD look great. SD is so so. Here is one thing I have noticed. Sound is run directly into the TV for now

1)I have noticed the audio/video sync even with the sound plugged directly into the TV. One night I noticed it on a local OTA digital station, but not on the local satellite. Also last night watching the Eagles Steelers game on ESPN HD I noticed it on a commercial.

2)A week ago I was watching an SD football game on CBS. The home teams white jerseys were way too bright. The were a pure field of bright white. You could see no detail on the jersey and it kinda hurt my eyes. I switched over to the Olympics HD and didn't notice the same effect.

3)I had a SD cartoon channel up to show my daughter the TV and saw some strange effects. It appears dark lines such as the boarder of a cartoon characters face on a lighter image creates a lighter shadow like image around the dark line. It did get better when I turned down sharpness. I have also now noticed the effect on dark letters on white backgrounds, odd little "ghosts" between the letters. I have not tried any cartoon DVD's yet. I have not noticed it on HD shows.

Anybody else notice this?

I think that it is apparent from reading this thread, that there are numerous complaints & problems with the SamSung DLP's, in general. I am, however surprised about the relative lack of talk about the service provided by SamSung & its authorized service agents. We are custom A/V installers & resellers of the SamSung DLP's. We recently sold a HLN617W. We installed in the customer's Master Bedroom. There were complaints from day one about noise; apparently loud fan noise. The fact that its in a bedroom, seemed to prevent the customer from falling asleep, even after it was shut off. A call to SamSung resulted in the names of 2 local authorized servicers' of SamSung. The first company, would not give the courtesy of a return phone call. The 2nd company came out, agrred with the loudness of the noise, replaced some fan parts. Yet,when the customer came home, he was shocked to learn that the noise was just as loud as it was before they came. We have been unable to get anywhere with SamSung or the service company. We purchased this set on July 22, 2004. It has now been 5 weeks, with no action from SamSung, despite numerous calls, complaints. They just drag their feet & do nothing. Their repair did no good; their offer to replace it simply has not happened. We feel that we must suspend the sales of any more SamSung products. Period. If anyone needs proof of these problems, please go to: www.thecomplaintstation.com. The SamSung problems, service (or lack of service) is well documented here. I also suggest that people call SamSung at: 201-229-4000 to report any SamSung issues.

djacobs,

Doesn't the fan stay on when the TV turns off? The high pitched noise stops within 2 seconds of turning off the TV. It starts just before the picture appears, which is a couple of seconds after power on. I'm guessing that's because of the need to spin up the wheel?

Either way, it doesn't matter what is making the noise, if Samsung can't make it go away the TV goes back.

Anyone else actually have this problem?

I was #$%^ ing my pants last night. I kept hearing this weird noise coming from behind the TV. It would stop when I approached the TV. Eventually I waited there and it started again. I was able to determine that it wasn't from the TV. Investigation led to a grasshopper hiding in the curtain behind the TV. Whew.

The only fan noise I notice is a high pitch whining for about 15 seconds after the TV starts. After that I can barely notice it.

Originally posted by seaeye
djacobs,

Doesn't the fan stay on when the TV turns off? The high pitched noise stops within 2 seconds of turning off the TV. It starts just before the picture appears, which is a couple of seconds after power on. I'm guessing that's because of the need to spin up the wheel?

Either way, it doesn't matter what is making the noise, if Samsung can't make it go away the TV goes back.

Anyone else actually have this problem?

Yes, the fan stays on after the TV is turned off, and more more than 2 seconds, so you may be right about the color wheel.

Originally posted by Mr. Hookup
I think that it is apparent from reading this thread, that there are numerous complaints & problems with the SamSung DLP's, in general. I am, however surprised about the relative lack of talk about the service provided by SamSung & its authorized service agents. We are custom A/V installers & resellers of the SamSung DLP's. We recently sold a HLN617W. We installed in the customer's Master Bedroom. There were complaints from day one about noise; apparently loud fan noise. The fact that its in a bedroom, seemed to prevent the customer from falling asleep, even after it was shut off. A call to SamSung resulted in the names of 2 local authorized servicers' of SamSung. The first company, would not give the courtesy of a return phone call. The 2nd company came out, agrred with the loudness of the noise, replaced some fan parts. Yet,when the customer came home, he was shocked to learn that the noise was just as loud as it was before they came. We have been unable to get anywhere with SamSung or the service company. We purchased this set on July 22, 2004. It has now been 5 weeks, with no action from SamSung, despite numerous calls, complaints. They just drag their feet & do nothing. Their repair did no good; their offer to replace it simply has not happened. We feel that we must suspend the sales of any more SamSung products. Period. If anyone needs proof of these problems, please go to: www.thecomplaintstation.com. The SamSung problems, service (or lack of service) is well documented here. I also suggest that people call SamSung at: 201-229-4000 to report any SamSung issues.

That sucks about your issues with Samsung.

I needed service on my HLP6163 and they fixed it within 48 hours with no problems or hassles.

seaeye,

That does sound like a squeaky color wheel. It was occasionally reported on the older HLM and HLN models, but the HLPs had a new seven segment color wheel that turned a little faster. There have been very few reports of noise with those, quieter operation is one of the selling points of the new models, but it does happen. Call Samsung.

Hookup,

If you sell them, you ought to know how to spell them. There is no capital S in the center. For every post like yours, there are several from people who say that Samsung has gone the extra mile to make them happy.

When I had a problem with three blinking lights after a few weeks of ownership, even though the set worked fine after unplugging, Samsung overnighted the parts to replace the bulb and ballast and there was a tech at my door 24 hours from my first call. The repair took five minutes and the set has been perfect since.

Sounds like you have a couple of bad third-party repair contractors in your area, but to say "lack of service" is well-documented here is to miss the fact that a lot of people are documenting just the opposite.

If Samsung has indeed promised to swap the set, I'd absolutely hold them to it. However, as the person who sold the set to the customer, you ought to assume some responsibility for making them happy.

P.S., I followed the link you offered as "proof" Samsung had a poor record with consumers. Toshiba and Mitsubishi had more complaints, and Sony had more than twice as many.

Originally posted by Mr. Hookup
I think that it is apparent from reading this thread, that there are numerous complaints & problems with the SamSung DLP's, in general. I am, however surprised about the relative lack of talk about the service provided by SamSung & its authorized service agents. We are custom A/V installers & resellers of the SamSung DLP's. We recently sold a HLN617W. We installed in the customer's Master Bedroom. There were complaints from day one about noise; apparently loud fan noise. The fact that its in a bedroom, seemed to prevent the customer from falling asleep, even after it was shut off. A call to SamSung resulted in the names of 2 local authorized servicers' of SamSung. The first company, would not give the courtesy of a return phone call. The 2nd company came out, agrred with the loudness of the noise, replaced some fan parts. Yet,when the customer came home, he was shocked to learn that the noise was just as loud as it was before they came. We have been unable to get anywhere with SamSung or the service company. We purchased this set on July 22, 2004. It has now been 5 weeks, with no action from SamSung, despite numerous calls, complaints. They just drag their feet & do nothing. Their repair did no good; their offer to replace it simply has not happened. We feel that we must suspend the sales of any more SamSung products. Period. If anyone needs proof of these problems, please go to: www.thecomplaintstation.com. The SamSung problems, service (or lack of service) is well documented here. I also suggest that people call SamSung at: 201-229-4000 to report any SamSung issues.

Sorry to hear about your problems with Samsung service. Contrary to your opinion, I have seen many comments on avs forum about great service from Samsung. I have no doubt that going to a website called "thecomplaintstation" I will find complaints about Samsung as well as many other vendors.

Has anyone had to have the color wheel replaced on an HLN567? My set is just under a year old, began making a high pitched "saw" noise.

Samsung warranty service over the phone believes it is a "known issue" with the color wheel.........they said not likely the cooling fan. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.

Thanks,

Dustyn

Maybe this thread title should be re-titled

"General Samsung HLP Isssues and Problems" ;)

I'm sure am glad I picked up the Mits!

Originally posted by chaslum
Maybe this thread title should be re-titled

"General Samsung HLP Isssues and Problems" ;)

I'm sure am glad I picked up the Mits!
But you linger. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by htwaits
But you linger. :rolleyes:

I think Chas was the one who started this thread, with the plan of purchasing a HLP-6163 when available. I think (as has been mentioned before), that the AVS Forum is a magnet for people with problems, while thousands of other buyers are content watching their problem free sets.

I'm happy that Chas has found a set he likes, and hope he doesn't need to start a new thread titled "Mitsubishi DLP Problems" ;)

I for one am looking forward to my own HLP-6163 purchase, and can't wait to report back here that my set is problem free...;)

Bill

I've kept to myself for the last 8 pages haven't I?
I just like to be kept abreast of all the issues... I haven't posted a gagillion times but I like to throw in my 2 cents every once in a while.

"I'm sure am glad I picked up the Mits!"

I wasn't trying to rub this in anyones faces honestly. There are definite advantages to the HLP. (Its not a freakin mirror for one!)

Enjoy.

Originally posted by DustynW
Samsung warranty service over the phone believes it is a "known issue" with the color wheel.........they said not likely the cooling fan. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.


Yes there have been reports of some color wheel problems. Remember that by January 2004 Samsung has sold something like 130,000 DLP sets.

The most common problem reported here for these micro chip displays, from all manufacturers, has been "lamp/ballast" failure.

Sony and Samsung sell the most sets so their problems seem to be reported more often.

Originally posted by chaslum
I've kept to myself for the last 8 pages haven't I?

Easy does it. Lingering can be a sign of affection. ;)

Dude, they should GIVE you an HLP when you hit post # 7000!

Originally posted by chaslum
Dude, they should GIVE you an HLP when you hit post # 7000!
Great idea but it's too late. Maybe Rogo can use one. :cool:

I just got off the phone with my "local service center" that Samsung referred me to and I am not feeling too great about their ability to do a complete and reliable job. I need your opinions on if I should call Samsung back and ask for another shop (if I actually can), or bear with the 'problem' for a while.

I called my local service company and they received the fax from Samsung about the "high pitched whining". He asked me "What kind of tv is it?" and I said it's a DLP. He asked is it Plasma, I said "no, it's a DLP". He asked me is it wall mounted, i said no. I hear a voice in the background that said "CRT", as if they were trying to guess what it was. The guy I am speaking with said, "is it a CRT?" I said, "no, it's DLP, do you know what a DLP is?" He said, yeah, he just gets them confused....oh boy.

Then I asked him if he has ever done any work on this tv before and he said no. He also said he hasn't done any work on Samsung tvs either!?! That is really reassuring. He said he'd have to bring it to the shop to repair it.

So, I can live with the high pitched noise, but I would rather get it fixed, but with a reliable service shop. Is it possible for me to request a different shop? Please, I would appreciate any suggestions.

Sorry for the rant, I love my new tv, so don't take it as a "Problem", it's just something that i can hear and I would like to see if I can correct it.

I'm due to get my HLP6163 in a week or so.

Now that I'll have HDMI, I'm thinking about upgrading my DVD player. While my dealer is at CEDIA they're going to let me borrow their demo Arcam Diva DV79 (it has HDMI out) DVD player and a Transparent HDMI cable.

But I have a question. If I'm using the HDMI input on the HLP, and I want to play a non-anamorphic DVD or a fullframe DVD, does the HLP provide aspect control on the HDMI input to set it to 4:3? I do not want to view 4:3 material in a distorted stretch mode.

Dean

bmgamble,
There is no way I would let these repair guys take your set, call Samsung and explain what you explained to us and ask for another service center...I contacted Samsung about a 3 blinking light problem on my 6163 and they said Samsung has their own Samsung repair crew in my area and they would contact me today...still waiting for the call. Good Luck!! Keep us posted.

Originally posted by bmgamble
So, I can live with the high pitched noise, but I would rather get it fixed, but with a reliable service shop. Is it possible for me to request a different shop? Please, I would appreciate any suggestions.
I hope that's not the only authorized shop in your area. I would call Samsung back and tell them that the shop they recommended has no experience and seems to not know what a DLP TV is.

Originally posted by dwette
But I have a question. If I'm using the HDMI input on the HLP, and I want to play a non-anamorphic DVD or a fullframe DVD, does the HLP provide aspect control on the HDMI input to set it to 4:3? I do not want to view 4:3 material in a distorted stretch mode.

The HDMI input should be the same as the DVI input. You will have Wide (PC), Wide (TV), Expand, and 4x3 aspect modes to chose from. For examples of different move aspect ratios and the best choice (P. Size remote button) check out the "black bars" link at the bottom of my message.

In general:

Anamorphic >> Wide (TV)

Letterbox >> Expand

Academy Standard >> 4x3

I've never watched a "full screen -- pan and scan" DVD but since they are cropped to fit a 4x3 screen I assume that the 4x3 aspect mode on your TV would be best.

Double check the DVD player to make sure it's configured to display an image on a 16x9 screen.

Originally posted by htwaits
The HDMI input should be the same as the DVI input. You will have Wide (PC), Wide (TV), Expand, and 4x3 aspect modes to chose from. For examples of different move aspect ratios and the best choice (P. Size remote button) check out the "black bars" link at the bottom of my message...

Thanks for responding. But are you sure about that (i.e. you have a HLP with HDMI device you've been able to check yourself). Also, there is no "Expand" mode on any Samsung DLP I've seen. There's a Panaorama, but that's only available for the SD interlaced inputs (composite, S-Vid, etc).

BTW: I understand aspect modes (black bars, etc) and OARs, etc. I've been doing this awhile. And I understand setup on a DVD player (currently have Arcam DV88+ modded with a SiI504 deinterlacer). :)

The reason I asked to begin with is that the HLP manual states, "You can select only Wide, 4:3 screen size in the Component(480p, 720p, 1080i) Mode" but it doesn't say anything about DVI/HDMI, not that I've found anyway. On my current HLM, DVI allows only Wide (PC) and Wide (TV). No other aspect modes (meaning 4:3) are available.

I just want to verify with certainty whether or not the HLP has aspect control for 4:3 on HDMI, and I'm not convinced that it does, unless someone who has one with a HDMI device attached can say for sure. I mostly don't need it, but I do have some non-anamorphic DVDs and some 4:3 TV show DVDs. With non-anamorphic DVDs I want to keep the correct OAR, so that means either the TV is in 4:3 mode, or zoomed.

Dean

Originally posted by dwette
Also, there is no "Expand" mode on any Samsung DLP I've seen. There's a Panaorama, but that's only available for the SD interlaced inputs (composite, S-Vid, etc).
Dean
Haven't used my HDMI on my Sammy HLP 5063 so can't help you there but can tell you when feeding the Sammy 720p through DVI I do have an "Expand" choice in addition to Wide TV, Wide PC, and 4:3

When using component or S-video have the Wide, Panorama, Zoom 1, Zoom 2, and 4:3 This is feeding it 480i. Don't know what happens if feeding it 480p and above

Originally posted by Gojhawks
Haven't used my HDMI on my Sammy HLP 5063 so can't help you there but can tell you when feeding the Sammy 720p through DVI I do have an "Expand" choice in addition to Wide TV, Wide PC, and 4:3

When using component or S-video have the Wide, Panorama, Zoom 1, Zoom 2, and 4:3 This is feeding it 480i. Don't know what happens if feeding it 480p and above

Thanks Gojhawks...

That's very intersting. The manual (just searched the PDF) only mentions "Expand" for PC display. Maybe this was added for DVI after the manual was printed. I suspect it may be the same for HDMI.

I'm unclear what "Expand" does. Is it like the Panarama (non-linear stretch) mode for interlaced inputs, or something else? If something else, under what circumstance might I use it.

But as I said, I'll have the HDMI Arcam DVD player on loan during CEDIA, so I'll find out then anyway.

Dean

I think that the only high pitched whining sound that SamSung here's is when they listen to a complaint (and by the way, I know that there is only one capital 'S' IN THE NAME, BUT i HAVE ALWAYS DIGNIFIED THEIR NAME BY SPELLING IT WITH Two CAPITAL "S"'s). Actually, besides www.complaintstation.com , I have heard other problems & complaints about SamSung DLP's through my suppliers, as well. The list of different SamSung DLP issues are listed in great detail in these preceeding pages (too numerous to mention.) Now, if you have had great experience with your DLP, I am happy for you. Most of our DLP sales have been pleasant experiences. However, when you receive such a problem, and SamSung ignores it, or the Service Company can't fix it, then you find out about their service, or should I say, lack of service & expertise. Now, I don't know if their authorized service companies are just worse in my area (Baltimore), and you have had better luck, more power to you. However, I took this to a higher level, with SamSung, and they haven't done much of anything. One service company would not dignify our service request with so much as a return call; the other Company came out and was unable to fix it. They were supposed to get another servicer out to the customer; that has not happened. Then when I pushed this with theSamSung Rep in our area, he said they would probably just replace it. Now its 5 weeks after the sale; and they have done nothing but promise to do something. To date, they have done nothing to help the customer out of this. At this point, I am inclined to just give the customer his money back and shove this set up my suppliers' *ss. I can't wait to get to the Cedia show in September, and I will ram it up their a**.

Originally posted by dwette
But are you sure about that (i.e. you have a HLP with HDMI device you've been able to check yourself). Also, there is no "Expand" mode on any Samsung DLP I've seen. There's a Panaorama, but that's only available for the SD interlaced inputs (composite, S-Vid, etc).

If you are going by showroom sets they are most often connected through component where the options are Wide, Panorama, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4x3. The DVI/HDMI options are the ones I gave you.

Originally posted by dwette
That's very intersting. The manual (just searched the PDF) only mentions "Expand" for PC display. Maybe this was added for DVI after the manual was printed. I suspect it may be the same for HDMI.
Dean
I just checked my manual and you are right that it doesn't show up anywhere but under the PC Display section. It says Expand "scales the picture to the aspect ratio of the input source" By the way, over DVI if inputting 1080i (instead of 720p) your only choices are Wide TV or 4:3, period. I have no idea what it all means really.

Originally posted by dwette
I'm unclear what "Expand" does. Is it like the Panarama (non-linear stretch) mode for interlaced inputs, or something else? If something else, under what circumstance might I use it.


Expand mode enlarges the image an equal amount in all four directions until the image reached the sides of the screen. It's seems to be the same as Zoom1 connected through component. That's why I indicated that it was the correct choice for the older Letterbox wide screen films.

i noticed that my 50" HLP has problems producing fine lines of color. I was watching who wants to be a millionare on SD DBS and noticed the lines around the answers were completely flickering like little tiny dots running around the lines... i am Using a DVI for DBS and HDMI for DVD's. The same problem happens in HD DBS and on DVDs. Another thing I noticed.. I watched, "welcome to mooseport" (funny movie) and someone was wearing a black suit.... the camera was moving extremely slow, and his entire suit began to flash white... kind of like ghosting in an LCD.... i have not been able to figure out what is causing this, maybe the powering 2 pixels into one is doing it.... because where i work at best buy, the pedastal DLP has no problem performing optimally. And if i'm not mistaken, the pedastal has the HD2+, please correct me if i'm wrong.... i sell Home theater products at best buy, and i use this website as my guide to higher pay... so any input would help. THANKS

Originally posted by jwv651
bmgamble,
There is no way I would let these repair guys take your set, call Samsung and explain what you explained to us and ask for another service center...I contacted Samsung about a 3 blinking light problem on my 6163 and they said Samsung has their own Samsung repair crew in my area and they would contact me today...still waiting for the call. Good Luck!! Keep us posted. Yeah, they said they could order the part, but I said I'll just wait until Monday and then decide (that way I could get some opinions here). I will definitely call Samsung back. Sad thing is, the area where I live, there really isn't that great of a high-end market, so I would assume a good service repair center would be a good drive from me. Hope you got your call, jwv651 ! Also, thanks htwaits for your opinion as well. I also hope these guys aren't my only choice. I'm sure there is someone.....somewhere :)

My original 5063 had a high-pitched whine that started as soon as the picture popped up (not just when turning on the power) and stopped after about five minutes of use. This was consistent - happened just this way each and every time I used the set. I recently exchanged the 5063 for a 5663. No whine whatsoever. To my knowledge, nobody has confirmed what this is but there have been several people who have commented on it. A small percentage of the overall sets, though. I had the three blinking lights problem on the 5063 that corrected itself by unplugging. Nevertheless, I had a service tech out on the 5063 to replace the ballast. He wasn't certain what was causing the whine. Until proven otherwise, I've got to suspect the color wheel.


I posted the above in a different thread before noticing this thread had taken a turn to discussing the high-pitched whine. Thought I would post it here too as added info on the symptoms. Mine were apparently slightly different in that the whine always stopped after about five minutes of use. I never heard anything at shutdown or after shutdown, other than the very faint and proper sound of the fan continuing its cool down process.

Originally posted by Gojhawks
I just checked my manual and you are right that it doesn't show up anywhere but under the PC Display section. It says Expand "scales the picture to the aspect ratio of the input source" By the way, over DVI if inputting 1080i (instead of 720p) your only choices are Wide TV or 4:3, period. I have no idea what it all means really.

Are you saying 720p is different from 1080i for the DVI? Does DVI 720p have Expand? I imagine it might be the same for HDMI.

Originally posted by htwaits
If you are going by showroom sets they are most often connected through component where the options are Wide, Panorama, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4x3. The DVI/HDMI options are the ones I gave you.

That would then be different from my HLM/HLN, where Panorama and Zoom have never been available on any progressive input (except where Zoom was on the original HLM 480i/480 component 1, before the W1 rev). And the HLP manual confirms that restriction. So if stores have those on component, it with an interlaced input signal.

I agree, ideally 4:3 would be for fullframe DVDs and Expand for non-anamorphic widescreen DVDs.

But I expect HDMI will have Wide and 4:3, and that it'll not have Expand, which is only for PC (as stated in the manual). If HDMI does in fact have Exand, that would be really nice.

Dean

Originally posted by dwette
Are you saying 720p is different from 1080i for the DVI? Does DVI 720p have Expand? I imagine it might be the same for HDMI.
Dean
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. Using DVI, when outputting 720p from cablebox, have choices of Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, 4:3. When outputting 1080i only have Wide TV and 4:3. I am unable to find anything that indicates it is/isn't the same for HDMI. I would guess it has something to do with the fact that the native resolution of the display is 720p.

Originally posted by Gojhawks
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. Using DVI, when outputting 720p from cablebox, have choices of Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, 4:3. When outputting 1080i only have Wide TV and 4:3. I am unable to find anything that indicates it is/isn't the same for HDMI. I would guess it has something to do with the fact that the native resolution of the display is 720p.

OK. Thank you for clarifying.

If you don't mind another question: I believe Progressive Component has Wide and 4:3. Does it also have Expand, or not?

Thanks...

Dean

Originally posted by dwette
OK. Thank you for clarifying.
If you don't mind another question: I believe Progressive Component has Wide and 4:3. Does it also have Expand, or not?Thanks...
Dean
Expand is only an option on DVI (and HDMI?), not on component. Depending on what you are sending over component have choices of what you get. If sending 480i, i.e non-progressive signal, get Wide,Panorama, Zoom1,Zoom2 and 4:3. If sending 480p only get Wide and 4:3. I originally was getting HD over component and as I recall was only able to watch 1080i in Wide or 4:3. Don't know about 720p over component as my Sammy and my Moto 5100 cable box did not play well together and was not able to successfully output 720p over component from the settop box. Maybe some one else has had sucess with 720p over component to the Sammy and can tell you about the picture size options in that case.

Hi I have one of the new sets....and if you don't you are not missing anything.. I swapped it with Ultimate Electronics for the HLN I had... The computer looks like crap on this set because of their new pixel smoothing crap. Makes everying look "soft" which makes my text look blurred. I can't even read it from my couch anymore.. So I tried to get my HLP back and they sold it... so i am getting another HLN that is about a year old.. if you have a chance go to the store and look at the HLP.. if you look closely at it you cannot see the individual square pixels anymore... Like I said they are all blurred together... The text was crystal clear on the HLN. Even movies look crappier to me. This is supposedly Samsung's attempt to get a more "film like" look and eliminate the "screen door" effect. The contrast is a bit better...but not so much better to where I want to keep this set.. Plus the picture is pretty badly tilted on this one. This is the 5th dlp i have had.. the open box at the store is not tilted... but I will tell you all of the other ones i have had have been tilted.. this one is the worst though... So to conclude, I would not recommend this set to anyone who wants to hook a computer up to it.. They had a MITS 62" DLP but it had no DVI input... Otherwise I probably would have went with that one..... These sets are nice, but a nightmare!!!!!!!

Patrick

So has anyone had their high pitch whine sound fixed? I bought mine in less than 30 days from BB, the last time I did they would just replace the set, so if no one knows of a fix, that would be my best bet.

Well after having the dreaded "3 light" problem surface after owning the TV for a little over a month, I have been working around it for the last 3 weeks while waiting for the parts (bulb/ballast). Today the tech shows up with both in hand only to tell my wife the ballast ordered was not the correct one. To make a long story short...only the bulb was replaced. I've told my wife to turn the set on and off a couple of times today to see if I can get the issue to appear again. I find it hard to believe it is solely a bulb issue. Thoughts...comments...have other had an issue getting a ballast?

Thanks,

-tony

Originally posted by gimphboi
Well after having the dreaded "3 light" problem surface after owning the TV for a little over a month, I have been working around it for the last 3 weeks while waiting for the parts (bulb/ballast). Today the tech shows up with both in hand only to tell my wife the ballast ordered was not the correct one. To make a long story short...only the bulb was replaced. I've told my wife to turn the set on and off a couple of times today to see if I can get the issue to appear again. I find it hard to believe it is solely a bulb issue. Thoughts...comments...have other had an issue getting a ballast?

Thanks,

-tony

So after saying they will order the ballast, the shop has just done an about face and now says the bulb should resolve the issue and that there is no need to replace the ballast. According to the technician I spoke to on the phone, if I can hear a ticking noise when the set is attempting to start, that is the ballast firing and therefore working.

I always imagined a bulb as something that either works or doesn't. Is that not the case with these bulbs? To me a set that has trouble starting, but is able to start sometimes would not indicate a problem with the bulb. Then again...I am not a TV tech.

Thanks,

-tony

I have reported this before and didn't get any responses - wondering if other people are experiencing this behavior - it's not really a problem or at least not yet:

My HLP5063 periodically (at least one - three times a night), both when the TV is on and after I have turned it off (sometimes 30 mins to an hour after) makes these loud popping noises that literally sound like something inside the TV is breaking. Sounds like you are cracking a piece of plastic or something. No other way to describe it. It is not a mechanical noise at all and it is quite loud and always sounds the same.

I have not noticed any problems whatsoever as a result of this but it is a little disconcerting b/c the noise does not sound good. I am worried that over time it could turn into a problem.

Anyone else experiencing this?

EricScott,
I have heard this once, I believe, on our tv. This is just a guess, but I would think it is the frame or base that is popping when the tv warms up and cools down. In a cold state (off) the plastic if settled, then the tv is turned on and warms up, so things might "adjust" to the temp differences.

Originally posted by bmgamble
EricScott,
I have heard this once, I believe, on our tv. This is just a guess, but I would think it is the frame or base that is popping when the tv warms up and cools down. In a cold state (off) the plastic if settled, then the tv is turned on and warms up, so things might "adjust" to the temp differences.

Makes sense. Definitely sounds like plastic bending and expanding. I hear it very regularly though. And sometimes after the set has been on for hours and is presumably warm. Who knows. Just surprised this problem isn't more widespread.

I didn't read the rest of the thread but I think I have a new one. My HLP5663W has a picture on the PC and SD 4:3 is hour glass shape. The top and bottom of the picture is slightly wider than the middle, about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. All is fine on HD 16:9. I have tech coming out to change the DMD board. The PQ and everything else is great, just the shape is odd on 4:3 and PC. I hope the tech repair helps. I called Thursday and they were able to get service out here today.

The hourglass thing is called pincushion distortion, and it's a byproduct of the optical system. It's common on 4:3 with most rear-projection sets, but doesn't affect the picture quality or geometry (stright lines in the image are still straight) so most of us ignore it.

I have noticed the hourglass shape on 4:3 as well. I just ignore it. I have noticed tho that if you look at the display from either side one edge of the picture seems to straighten out.

Originally posted by squicken
I'm not glad that you've got a problem, but I'm relieved someone else also is getting dropouts with their component inputs with the XBOX.

I believe with the proper remote there are ways to go directly to your preferred input using discrete codes. I use the Harmony SST-659, and it goes directly to my chosen input. I believe the Pronto remotes also have this feature.

I had the same problems with the video drops (black screen for a second or two)
On your Xbox, what do you have set for HD video output. I turned off, 480p and only had 720p on and I don't have the problem anymore. At least I haven't seen it in a while. My only other problem is the video lag with the Xbox.(using Component video input) I haven't had a chance to test my PS2 for the lag.

Originally posted by wittangamo
The hourglass thing is called pincushion distortion, and it's a byproduct of the optical system. It's common on 4:3 with most rear-projection sets, but doesn't affect the picture quality or geometry (stright lines in the image are still straight) so most of us ignore it.

Thanks for the info. Since this is my first wide screen I had never seen this before. The tech guy came out and confirmed this is standard for wide screens.

He did tell me something interesting. The new light engines will be coming out in November (I'm assuming for the tabletop HD2+ sets). Since my set (HLP5663W) is under warrenty for 1 year he told me if it still bothers me to call samsung and he can get a new light engine and replace my HD3 light engine with the new HD2+ engine since they are interchangable. He left me his card. He has been fixing tvs for 25 years and DLPs for 3 years.

Sounds doubtful but interesting. We'll see what happens in November.

I have had my 5063 for about 2 weeks. It is connected to a Samsung DirecTv HD receiver via DVI cable. So far things have been pretty good. I have noticed this effect twice. When I am rapidly changing channels, the picture will start to flicker, maybe like the frames are being received at half rate. No matter what I change the channel to (HD or SD), the picture keeps flickering. If I change sources, it clears up and if I rotate through the sources back to the receiver, it looks fine. I have the HD receiver in Native 1 mode and it appears to change formats based on the programming. I am wondering if the format switch may be incomplete sometimes, like when I am rapidly shifting through channels and the TV gets in a strange mode.

Any ideas?

I have a HLP6163 on the way. I also have a DVD player (Arcam DV88+) that will output PAL via component, and want to order a DVD that is only available as a R2 PAL disk.

Will the HLP be able to display a PAL DVD? I thought I read somewhere that the Sammy DLPs can display PAL, but I'm not sure.

Anyone know for sure?

Thx...

Dean

I have an HLP4663 with a Motorola 6200 STB connected using DVI and
an HD841 connected with component. Does anyone know if I can use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the HD841 to the HDMI input of the DLP, and will this connection then allow 720p?

Thanks

Sorry if I'm asking something that's already been covered - I know I've seen it somewhere in the thousands of threads I've read.

Got my HLP5663 installed and working with a Sony SAT HD300 and both D* and OTA HD is awesome (Dallas area). SD digital is also very good although I don't have a lot to compare it to. The HD300 is connected to the DVI input on the HLP. The XBox is connected to Component 1 and it is also outstanding compared to the 4:3 36" I had before.

So here's where I'm having trouble (maybe just gone brain-numb). I've connected my recently built HTPC to the HDMI input on the HLP. The HTPC uses a Radeon 9600XT and I'm connecting to the DVI output on the 9600. The signal is there and everything works - sorta. The windos screens are much larger than the display and there is both vertical and horizontal overscan (I think that what you call it). The top, bottom, and sides of the Windows screens are cut off. I've read somewhere that I need to set the screen resolution to 1080x720 or something close to that. I just can't find where to do that.
Can anyone steer me in the right direction here?

By the way, I've seen very few problems with the HLP since I installed it a week ago. One time only, a very slight audio/video sync problem in a SD ota signal. Some noticible dithering during the Olympics during the diving competition during very fast movement.

I think you are supposed to set the Psize to wide PC instead of Wide.

Originally posted by DHampton

I've seen very few problems with the HLP since I installed it a week ago... Some noticible dithering during the Olympics during the diving competition during very fast movement.

Just an FYI, thats NBC's HD signal which handles fast movements like crap. I have a new Mits DLP and I freaked out when I saw dithering because thats why I bought the TV in the first place. But everyone in the thread was experiencing the same problem with NBCHD. If you really want to gauge your HD signal stick with INHD or Discovery HD or X-box (you can generate your own fast movements onscreen).

NBCHD Olympics - Hopefully better in 2008.

Chas.

hpnova: Yes! I have my hlp 6163 connected to the Moto 6200 DVI to DVI, and a Sam 841 DVD connected DVI to HDMI (using a hybrid cable). Works fine.

Originally posted by timclark
I think you are supposed to set the Psize to wide PC instead of Wide.

If you're talking about the Picture size setting on the HLP, I only have wide and 4:3. There is no wide PC.

Yes that what was I was talking about. I don't have a PC connected to my hlp but I saw several posts here about using Wide PC verses Wide. Most of that was due to folks watching HD feeds using WidePC which I think was giving the, borders at the sides and on the bottom. In these cases I think they were advised to set it to Wide. I assumed your situation would be the reverse but I don't know why you would not have this as an option for HDMI.

I think most of the prior posts were related to the DVI connection. Not sure if there is a difference.

One comment on Wide PC http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4266537#post4266537

Originally posted by timclark
One comment on Wide PC http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4266537#post4266537

Thanks Tim - I'll follow that thread and see what I find:)

I received delivery of my HLP5063 on 8/24 -- loved everything about it with the exception of high pitched whine coming off the color wheel. It was a steady whine and just too much to listen to as it was constantly on. It was even a bigger problem for my wife (she was more attuned to the pitch).

I went back to the store to listen to their TVs - no discernible whine.

Called Samsung on 8/29, they scheduled a service call 9/2. Service rep just left -- he didn't have a replacement color wheel to swap in, so replaced light engine. Whine is no officially gone.

I got a simple question:

If I were to buy a Sammy DLP today and wanted to sell it next summer, where would the best place to sell that at?

Also, if I bought one for $3500 today, how much do you think I could get for it next summer?

If they come out with 1080 DLP's this winter I doubt you could get more than $2000 for it.

Originally posted by pbs
I received delivery of my HLP5063 on 8/24 -- loved everything about it with the exception of high pitched whine coming off the color wheel. It was a steady whine and just too much to listen to as it was constantly on. It was even a bigger problem for my wife (she was more attuned to the pitch).

I went back to the store to listen to their TVs - no discernible whine.

Called Samsung on 8/29, they scheduled a service call 9/2. Service rep just left -- he didn't have a replacement color wheel to swap in, so replaced light engine. Whine is no officially gone.

I just got my 6163W yesterday and I have the same whine. It's VERY high pitched. Looks like I need to call them to.

Setup my 50" on Monday. Turned it on Tuesday and I have the ultrasonic whine problem too. Just got off the phone with BestBuy. Should be getting a call from a service center later today.

Originally posted by pbs
... Whine is no officially gone. So are you saying that it is "now" officially gone or "not" officially gone? Reading it, I would think you are saying that it is gone. So, all they did was replace the light engine and the noise was gone? I might relay that to the service shop here. Maybe they will do an in-home repair instead of taking it back to their shop.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by pbs
... Whine is no officially gone.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So are you saying that it is "now" officially gone or "not" officially gone? Reading it, I would think you are saying that it is gone. So, all they did was replace the light engine and the noise was gone? I might relay that to the service shop here. Maybe they will do an in-home repair instead of taking it back to their shop.


__________________
Bryan

___________________________________________________
Typo on my part -- whine is now gone / banished / eliminated. Sorry for any confusion. Replacement of either the color wheel or the light engine is an easy in home repair - no more than 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.

Originally posted by pbs
So, all they did was replace the light engine and the noise was gone?

Changing the light engine was over kill for the problem they were fixing.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by pbs
So, all they did was replace the light engine and the noise was gone?

Changing the light engine was over kill for the problem they were fixing.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Agree the solution was overkill. All the repair really required was swapping out the color wheel. However, the color wheel that the technician brought was damaged (discovered when he removed it from the packaging). He didn't have another one with him, so swapped out the engine instead.

I took a vacation day off work to meet them for the appointment -- it would not have been acceptable for them to expect me to take another vacation day due to the fact they didn't have the requisite part for a more surgical fix.

Originally posted by pbs
I took a vacation day off work to meet them for the appointment -- it would not have been acceptable for them to expect me to take another vacation day due to the fact they didn't have the requisite part for a more surgical fix.
I agree and you got good service too. :)

I got my "kirk" Monday and I love it so does my son first thing he did was put his fingerprints all over the bottom and corners of the screen. What is the best way to clean the screen?

Get a "micro fiber" cloth and wipe the screen with vertical strokes. If that doesn't get all the finger prints try the same type of cloth slightly damp.

You can buy "micro fiber" cleaning cloths at auto supply stores, places like Target or even some grocery stores. Just be sure to get the kind that do NOT have any additional cleaning chemicals added.

Micro fiber is the kind of cloth that usually comes with new glasses and is used to clean lenses.

Originally posted by htwaits
Get a "micro fiber" cloth and wipe the screen with vertical strokes. If that doesn't get all the finger prints try the same type of cloth slightly damp.

You can buy "micro fiber" cleaning cloths at auto supply stores, places like Target or even some grocery stores. Just be sure to get the kind that do NOT have any additional cleaning chemicals added.

Micro fiber is the kind of cloth that usually comes with new glasses and is used to clean lenses.

It's called sizing, and is often added to make the towel seem more fluffy. Also, if it hemmed with nylon thread you should pull it out.

Best bet is to get ones from a better eyewear or camera store. rather than an auto supply.

Originally posted by TVDoodz
I just got my 6163W yesterday and I have the same whine. It's VERY high pitched. Looks like I need to call them to.

Update: I diagnosed my high pitched whine a little better last night. I'm pretty sure it's the cooling fan. It only starts after the set has been on for 30 minutes or so. After a couple of hours it's whining pretty good.

Thanks for the help on the screen cleaning. OUT

Received my 6163 two weeks ago and set it up about a week ago with Zoom. HD and digital sources are great as long as the signal is good. Some pixelation but it is probably the antenna. Just noticed 3 bright white spots on the screen. Non moving bright white spots! I guess it is a stuck mirror or mirrors. Hopefully they will get unstuck by tonight when I get to watch again. If not hello Samsung customer service!

Originally posted by Fedreams
Just noticed 3 bright white spots on the screen. Non moving bright white spots! I guess it is a stuck mirror or mirrors.

They may not be. Go close enough to your screen to see the pixel grid which is an array of very fine black lines. If your white spots are exactly inside the boundaries of one element in the grid for each white spot than you have a one or more mirrors stuck on. If the white spots do not stay inside the pixel boundaries exactly then you have some other problem like dust bunnies.

how does one unstick mirrors on a DLP?

Originally posted by Martini
how does one unstick mirrors on a DLP?

With a very very small crow-bar :D

Originally posted by Martini
how does one unstick mirrors on a DLP?

You don't. It has to be replaced.

That sucks. Most DLP tvs seem to be pieces of junk that always need replacing. I guess the good thing is that places like BB or CC or Ultimate Electronics don't seem to mind you returning them. Samsung must be losing tons of money

Originally posted by Martini
That sucks. Most DLP tvs seem to be pieces of junk that always need replacing. I guess the good thing is that places like BB or CC or Ultimate Electronics don't seem to mind you returning them. Samsung must be losing tons of money

Samsung has sold many, many DLPs. You only hear about the bad ones here and that's still a very small percentage. And many of those with problems have 1st generation sets (HLM/HLN pre W1).

Those happy with working sets don't have anything to complain about here. I imaging Samsung is doing very well with the DLP line.

Originally posted by Martini
how does one unstick mirrors on a DLP?
You don't. The board containing the DLP chip has to be replaced.

Samsung has been replacing boards in units with stuck mirrors.

Hello all,

I just received my HLP 6163 yesterday from Tweeter. I have encountered an issue I haven't seen here before, so I figured I would mention it. After hooking up my Samsung D* STB via DVI and the analog RCA sound cables, I discovered the sound input port for DVI was not working. I double checked to make sure that the internal mute setting was off, used different cables, and even hooked up a different audio source to make sure it wasn't my STB. All failed. I called Samsung and they walked me through basically what I had already done, and determined the sound inputs for DVI were defective. All other sound inputs work fine, just the DVI audio in ports appear to be defective.

For now I just listen to the sound via my receiver. Picture is awesome, no rainbows, no color push, and so far with limited testing, no av sync issues with the sound output via the receiver (no delay set). Tweeter is going to replace the set with a new one.

Bill

What websites are you guys going to for Samsung info on upcoming DLP tvs? Like the 74/77 models.

thanks

Originally posted by htwaits
You don't. The board containing the DLP chip has to be replaced.

Samsung has been replacing boards in units with stuck mirrors.

It seems the mirrors in question have "unstuck" themselves. No three bright lights anymore. I will keep an eye out for these and other "gremlins".
It may sound like a broken record, the picture is great. The HD channels on VOOM like like you are looking out a brand new clean window. Digital channel are good. SD are like a slightly hazy window only after comparing them to HD.

Could an owner of a 5663 kindly let me know the height from the base of the TV chassis to the middle of the screen? I'm building a table and I'd like to set my viewing height (41 inches) to the middle of the screen.

Originally posted by Fedreams
It seems the mirrors in question have "unstuck" themselves.
I don't know what caused your three bright lights but it's unlikely that it was stuck mirrors. I've never read a reliable report about mirrors changing states once they are stuck. Anyway, good luck.

Originally posted by shanec
Could an owner of a 5663 kindly let me know the height from the base of the TV chassis to the middle of the screen? I'm building a table and I'd like to set my viewing height (41 inches) to the middle of the screen.

The vertical center is at 22.5".

9" Base height + 1/2 of 27" screen height.

Please post a pic when you are done.
Good luck

My HLP6163WX/XAA whine was the color wheel. They replaced it yesterday. Even with that, I'm EXTREEMLY pleased with this set. The TVA power buy rocks.

Build date June 2004 in Suwon Korea.

6163 works fine

After reading the boards for months I too was worried about build quality of the Samsung. I got a 6163W from Tweeter, plugged it in and it works fine. Comcast cable box through DVI, pioneer progressive DVD set to 480P through component 1 and GameCube with hard to get component cables tied to component 2.

High Def cable and high Def gamecube rocks. The set pointed out the fact that I need a better DVD player. Standard TV stations are to be avoided.

I spent the sunny weekend watching high def Red Sox and the US Open

Originally posted by new2hometheater
pioneer progressive DVD set to 480P through component 1

Try your DVD player with progressive mode turned off. You may like that better.

I have a huge lip synch issue on my 6163 with a DVD player. I have an older player hooked up through s-video and the lip synch is way off.

Anyone have a fix? Help?

The picture on the other hand is great.

I have had a 5063 HLP for about 3 weeks now. Overall - love this set, however, I think I have the "smudges" problems noted by some others here. When set is first turned on for the day, there are jagged "smudges" on the images on the screen - primarily down the left and right side of the screen. The smudges are noticeable on lighter video backdrops. They gradually go away after about 10 to 15 minutes or so (the set has warmed up?) and then are no longer visible.

This same experience occurs each time the set is turned on "cold" - in other words, I can replicate each morning or if the set has been off for several hours. The set is in a basement media room and usually a/c and/or a dehumidifier are running.

Are any others experiencing this problem? Is this worthy of a replacement or I am likely to face a similar (or worse) issues with another 5063 unit?

Originally posted by Acquisition
I have had a 5063 HLP for about 3 weeks now. Overall - love this set, however, I think I have the "smudges" problems noted by some others here. When set is first turned on for the day, there are jagged "smudges" on the images on the screen - primarily down the left and right side of the screen. The smudges are noticeable on lighter video backdrops. They gradually go away after about 10 to 15 minutes or so (the set has warmed up?) and then are no longer visible.

This same experience occurs each time the set is turned on "cold" - in other words, I can replicate each morning or if the set has been off for several hours. The set is in a basement media room and usually a/c and/or a dehumidifier are running.

Are any others experiencing this problem? Is this worthy of a replacement or I am likely to face a similar (or worse) issues with another 5063 unit? Yes that seems to be very common. I have only noticed them once on my 5063 and I've had it a couple months now.

Originally posted by PokerNut
I have a huge lip synch issue on my 6163 with a DVD player. I have an older player hooked up through s-video and the lip synch is way off.

Anyone have a fix? Help?

The picture on the other hand is great.

No one else has lip synch issues??

Originally posted by PokerNut
No one else has lip synch issues??

I have a 6163 also, however, I'm going through component from my DVD player to the TV (480p). DNIe and DNR are both off.

The digital audio out from the DVD player is going to my Onkyo receiver.

With this setup, I don't notice any sync issues.

Sorry I can't help...:(

What most of you are missing is that there is a delay in the video when converting from analog to digital to analgo again. This will make your game playing feel sluggish, and it will make ur video not sync with audio.

If your playing movies, then its not that big of a problem. What you do is introduce a delay in ur audio which can be done in many different ways.

The best thing to do is just use hdmi or dvi only.

It's just too bad that dvi or hdmi is not an option for video games yet.

-JP

Originally posted by Diode
What most of you are missing is that there is a delay in the video when converting from analog to digital to analgo again. This will make your game playing feel sluggish, and it will make ur video not sync with audio.

If your playing movies, then its not that big of a problem. What you do is introduce a delay in ur audio which can be done in many different ways.

The best thing to do is just use hdmi or dvi only.

It's just too bad that dvi or hdmi is not an option for video games yet.

-JP

Why does it happen for some movies but not others. Do you think the problem goes away altogether if I get a newer DVD player with DVI?

I received my HLP46 which was a replacement for my HLN43. I must say I'm very happy. Synch is gone and PQ seems a lot better than my 43. I do have a question: I installed a surround sound system where I have optical out from my DVD player into the receiver and component (video only) from the DVD player to the TV. It was suggested to me that I use the TVs speakers with the surround sound system to add additional "center power" to my setup.
Has anyone done this and if so, how is it working?
Thanks.

Originally posted by Blade37db
I received my HLP46 which was a replacement for my HLN43. I must say I'm very happy. Synch is gone and PQ seems a lot better than my 43. I do have a question: I installed a surround sound system where I have optical out from my DVD player into the receiver and component (video only) from the DVD player to the TV. It was suggested to me that I use the TVs speakers with the surround sound system to add additional "center power" to my setup.
Has anyone done this and if so, how is it working?
Thanks.

I wouldn't if you have speakers for a surround setup. The TV speakers are about as cheap as can be, and are more likely than not to add crappy sound to the mix, and be detrimental to overall sound quality.

But the real answer is to try for yourself and make your own decision.

Dean

PokerNut,

I do beleive it will go away if you get a dvd player with DVI out.

If you have a PC with DVI out, you can use that.

-JP

YIPES! Sears 5yr service plan for new HLP5063 = $896!! I'll take my chances... or better yet buy a plan from BB

Originally posted by E28M5
YIPES! Sears 5yr service plan for new HLP5063 = $896!! I'll take my chances... or better yet buy a plan from BB

Wow - that seems really high. If you look at this thread, I called sears a few days ago and they quoted me $544 based on a 6/14/04 purchase date (yours couldn't have been much earlier than that b/c I was in the first batch of TVA powerbuy orders). The further away you get from the purchase date the more the price goes up. But even if I bought the warranty a year after the purchase date (i.e. 6/14/05) it would be less than $700.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=444362

I think I decided to pass on the Sears warranty anyway. Will probably go with RepairMaster. $250 doesn't cover the bulb but I have 27 months under Samsung and Amex and I'm sure I can figure out a way to get a covered bulb replacement before that runs out.

The Best Buy by me (NYC) wouldn't sell me their EW. Said for DLPs where people are guaranteed to use the bulb replacement feature, they don't sell to people who don't buy their sets from BB.

Hmm that's strange, I bought the set 3 weeks ago and told the guy that! Maybe I got a bad quote? CC (where I bought it) was $596 for 4 yrs, and I think BB is $400 (if they will sell it to me that is - I saw a previous post where they did sell it to someone).

Originally posted by Acquisition
I have had a 5063 HLP for about 3 weeks now. Overall - love this set, however, I think I have the "smudges" problems noted by some others here. When set is first turned on for the day, there are jagged "smudges" on the images on the screen - primarily down the left and right side of the screen. The smudges are noticeable on lighter video backdrops. They gradually go away after about 10 to 15 minutes or so (the set has warmed up?) and then are no longer visible.

This same experience occurs each time the set is turned on "cold" - in other words, I can replicate each morning or if the set has been off for several hours. The set is in a basement media room and usually a/c and/or a dehumidifier are running.

Are any others experiencing this problem? Is this worthy of a replacement or I am likely to face a similar (or worse) issues with another 5063 unit?


The smudges are are simply the contact area where the anti-glare screen and main projection screen stick together. You can get rid of the smudges by gently patting the screen with a soft towel. Patting the anti-glare screen vibrates the two screens apart. You may have to do this several times over the course of a week, however, the smudges will eventually go away for good. Note that when the set warms up, the screens gradually separate on their own after anywhere from 10-45 mins. Whatever causes the screens to stick together apparently looses its tackiness when it gets warm.

Samsung has just made a very happy customer even happier!

I've been using my HLP5063 since mid-June (one of the first sets shipped in the TVA powerbuy) without any real problems (smudges every now and then, occasional lip sync issue) until last week when I got the 3BL problem. I called Samsung tech support on Sunday night, spoke to a service coordinator on Monday and had an appointment for today (after speaking to the technician) later that day.

So the Samsung techs (there were two of them) showed up right on time today. I explained my problem and told them that while I knew the normal fix was a bulb/ballast replacement, I really wanted a new light engine since my set was an April build and had the "older" engine. Fortunately, they came prepared with a big Samsung box that said "DLP Light Engine" on it - couldn't discern any other info, like a date or when it was shipped. After a short discussion between the two in Korean (I think) they decided to replace the entire engine. Entire repair took maybe 20 minutes.

They told me this was the latest LE for the HD3 and that it used a different bulb than my previous LE. So far the picture definitely looks good (really hard to say how much better it is than before, esp. since my cable box just got a software upgrade as well) but I am pretty pleased.

The one thing that I have noticed is that there appears to be some "bowing" in the shape of the picture on 4:3 material. Specifically, the black bars are narrower on the bottom (appear to be the same width on both sides) and get wider towards the top. Maybe I'm just imagining things but I definitely seem to notice it. Wasn't as obvious with the old LE. They did not touch the screen at all, simply removed the back panel, slid out the old LE and slid the new LE in, so not sure how the alignment could be messed up. Since the bowing appears to be symmetrical, maybe it's not messed up at all. Any thoughts?

Overall I was VERY VERY impressed w/ the Samsung technicians - they were polite, knowledgable and very reliable. This has made my already positive experience with the HLP even better.

Eric

Hrmm, I see the bowing effect in my Samsung 5063 as well... (I guess I have one of the newer LE's.) I also notice sometimes that the 4:3 display would be off center for FOXHD. (e.g. Simpsons)

I've seen bowing on 4:3 material on the 5063 at our local stores. I've seen it at 3 different stores so I assume this is the norm when viewing 4:3.

I think you will find some bowing on all RPTV sets which is a geometry error of the lens setup and the short throw of RPTV. The amount of noticeable bowing varies from set to set.

You get used to the bowing. You won't even notice it after a while, since your eyes tend to focus on the center of the screen, once you've gotten over the newness of it all.

Dean

Well I got out a ruler and measured the exact size of the black bars in all four corners of the screen. On both the left and right sides, the black bars are approximately 1/4" wider on the top than on the bottom - almost identical difference on both sides.

What is more troubling is that the image appears to be somewhat off-center. The black bars are more than 1/4" larger on the left side than on the right side.

I put in DVE and went to Title 12, Chapter 17 and you can clearly see that the outline on the left edge of the screen is slanted from top to bottom and that the outline on the right edge of the screen goes off the screen.

Note, that on widescreen material, the image takes up the entire screen, likely due to overscan - it's not like I have a 1/4" gap on the left side of the screen, which would be REALLY bad.

I know I'm being really anal here - the bowing doesn't bother me as much as the picture being off center does. For example in the DVE menus, one of the options all the way in the lower right portion of the screen was cut off on the right edge.

Pretty sure none of this happened previously.

The good news is, I think the PQ is better than it was before, which was pretty damn good to start with.

Called the Samsung tech who was here this morning - hoping he will come back and help me with the problem - even if it is just tweaking in the SM, which I'm not anxious to do on my own.

I guess it is possible that when he inserted the new LE that it was just slightly offcenter - that could account for the picture being off. The bowing I can live with.

Originally posted by EricScott
I guess it is possible that when he inserted the new LE that it was just slightly offcenter - that could account for the picture being off. The bowing I can live with.
The screws that mount the light engine make it possible t adjust the image so it's centered on the screen. The techs just didn't take enough time to be sure it was centered. It should be easy for them to adjust it.

Good to hear - hopefull I will report back later after they return.

How can I tell which LE my 5063 has? Manufactured in May.

Originally posted by PokerNut
I have a huge lip synch issue on my 6163 with a DVD player. I have an older player hooked up through s-video and the lip synch is way off.

Anyone have a fix? Help?

The picture on the other hand is great.

A fix would be to get a new DVD player with component outputs. You can also do a little research and for the same or a little more money, get an upscaling DVD player that outputs over DVI or HDMI (or component).

Originally posted by Acquisition
I have had a 5063 HLP for about 3 weeks now. Overall - love this set, however, I think I have the "smudges" problems noted by some others here. When set is first turned on for the day, there are jagged "smudges" on the images on the screen - primarily down the left and right side of the screen. The smudges are noticeable on lighter video backdrops. They gradually go away after about 10 to 15 minutes or so (the set has warmed up?) and then are no longer visible.

This same experience occurs each time the set is turned on "cold" - in other words, I can replicate each morning or if the set has been off for several hours. The set is in a basement media room and usually a/c and/or a dehumidifier are running.

Are any others experiencing this problem? Is this worthy of a replacement or I am likely to face a similar (or worse) issues with another 5063 unit?

It's probably moisture on the inside of your set. Like if you get in your car in the morning and there's a little bit of moisture on the inside of the windows.

I live in San Jose, and the inside of our apartment goes between 75-82 degrees during the day, and usually stays around 74-78 at night, so I've never noticed any such moisture in my set.

Originally posted by new2hometheater

High Def cable and high Def gamecube rocks. The set pointed out the fact that I need a better DVD player. Standard TV stations are to be avoided.



Although it's probably exaggerated a lot since you're on a 61" screen (I'm on a 43"), after about 100 hours of use, you should really get your set calibrated (or do it yourself - service menu). A proper calibration will really help make everything look better, from SD to HD and DVD. If your sharpness is on in the user menu, turning it all the way off can also help a little.

I've calibrated mine and SD looks very good, all things considered, HD looks great as always, and DVDs (on my HTPC) look better than ever (compared to before the calibration).

Originally posted by EricScott
Well I got out a ruler and measured the exact size of the black bars in all four corners of the screen. On both the left and right sides, the black bars are approximately 1/4" wider on the top than on the bottom - almost identical difference on both sides.
...


Although there's overscan, I've noticed this in a couple of situations:

Some video games won't fill up the screen in stretch mode, and I'll see a black bar on the left side of the screen (or both), and it's narrower on the bottom and wider on the top.

In VGA mode for HTPC, the right side of the screen is fine, but I can put a window cornered in the upper-left corner, and see to the left of it more and more as it goes towards the bottom of the screen (screen image is slightly wider in top left).

But this isn't so bad I would pay to have a pro come in and calibrate it.

I have asymetrical bowing (only the left side is out. The image is 1/4" wide at the bottom left than the top. Bottom right is only out a 1/16" Service tech came out and there was nothing he could do. He put in a new LE but that was wider at the bottom on both left and right sides. and the top right hand corner was out of focus, so I asked him to put my old LE back in. The out of focus corner was really bad.

There is a small cross grid diag screen in the service menu (1st selection at the bottom) that works really well for checking the geometry. Make sure you turn brightness and contrast all the way down before going into the menu.

The picture can be repositioned (off center issue) from the service menu, both horizontal and vertical. There does not appear to be a "pin cushion" adjustment which would normally be used to fix a bowing or trapazoid problem on a CRT (or at least so I have heard.)

My 4663 has a tremendous amount of overscan (way more than it should have) using the VE test patterns so you are right that the bow isn't a big deal on wide screen.

Timclark,

Well it looks like the more troublesome issue - the off center image - can be fixed, either by repositioning the LE itself (as htwaits suggested) or by tweaking in the SM. Spoke to the tech again and he said he needed to speak to an engineer and would get back to me. Hoping they can come back and make one of these fixes. I would prefer to simply recenter the actual LE and tweak the SM if necessary to get it just right.

Since the bowing is more or less equal on both sides, it doesn't bother me too much. Based on your experience with multiple LEs, I guess the bowing really is dependent on your particular engine.

Will keep you posted.

So the Samsung tech came back around 7. He told me that the light engine was not adjustable within the TV - it only goes in one way and has no room to move around. Instead we played with the vertical and horizontal settings in teh service menu. Changed vertical from 32 to 38 and horizontal from 66 to 75. Looks much better. The 4:3 picture is pretty centered and the bowing is improved somewhat by increasing the vertical position.

Overall I am very happy. PQ is definitely better. I plan to go into the SM at some point to poke around. I will report back on the exact part number or equivalent of the LE.

Unfortunately I got the famous 3BL problem with my 6/2004 built HLP5063. I called CC and they are sending a tech out next Thursday. I will keep everyone updated on whats wrong and replaced.

Hi All:

I was just wondering if anyone who also owns an HR10-250 HD Tivo would be kind enough to share their HLP6163W video settings.

Thanks!

I've had the 61" Sammy for about a month now. I just today bought an HD DirecTV Tivo. I don't yet have recording ability since I don't have a land line hooked up. Tomorrow I'll take it to a neighbor and run the setup there. Will that work? I may need to take that question to another forum but I figure that there may be others like me and the Sammy is the first HD & Widescreen TV for them, making this a pertinent question here as well.

My Sammy question is this. I have it set up through the HMDI input but I'm uncertain, which is the most correct P-Size I'm supposed to use. TV Wide is my guess. Anyone know what the TIVO should be set at? Any help in getting the TIVO and Sammy on the same page would be helpful.

Because I only have the NBC channel that is HD and the Apprentice is on in a few minutes (I've only got one satellite being received, already made a called to have the techie come out and yes I do have the 3 LNB correct dish), I'll try playing with it then.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.

:mad:

Big time lip synch problem on the NBC HD channel 82 on DTV.

Any fix for that??

I have a huge lip synch issue on my 6163 with a DVD player. I have an older player hooked up through s-video and the lip synch is way off.

This worked for me with an older Sony interlaced DVD player and my 5063. Try connecting the audio out from your DVD player to the TV, then connect the TV's audio out to your HT receiver. Apparently, it takes longer for the HLP to process interlaced video, so a slight delay is added to the audio to compensate, which seems to help with sync issues. The downside of this fix is that you are limited to stereo audio since you will not be using the digital audio output from your DVD player into the receiver for Dolby surround.

All
I didn't spot this issue posted here but may have missed it. I have a couple of instances with the HLP4663 where I turn the set on and we get multicolored streaks across the screen regardless of the source input. Sometimes the colored lines are horizonal and vertical and sometimes they outline some of the objects on the screen. I have to unplug the set for 30 seconds or so after allowing cool down of the bulb and then the problem is gone.

It has happened twice now. Each time I get the look from the "significant other" that says "and why is all of this better than the last TV we had????" I moved her off a Sony CRT and Cable to a Samsung and Dishnet. Needless to say, I don't have a good enough answer for her.....

Originally posted by timclark
It has happened twice now. Each time I get the look from the "significant other" that says "and why is all of this better than the last TV we had????"
Get your TV fixed and maybe your wife's "look" will improve. :)

Just found this great site for calibrating your display, for free:
http://www.displaycalibration.com/

I've got a DVI-DVI cable that came with a Dell LCD monitor. Any reason this wouldn't work to hook up my SA3250HD cable box to the HLP5063? Sure would save me a bit of dough if I didn't have to make a run to Best Buy.

Cox Cable doesn't provide DVI cables, only a component cable plus a composite audio cable. If the Dell DVI cable works, I'll use the component to hook up the XBox. :)

Originally posted by Pahonix
I've got a DVI-DVI cable that came with a Dell LCD monitor. Any reason this wouldn't work to hook up my SA3250HD cable box to the HLP5063? Sure would save me a bit of dough if I didn't have to make a run to Best Buy.

Cox Cable doesn't provide DVI cables, only a component cable plus a composite audio cable. If the Dell DVI cable works, I'll use the component to hook up the XBox. :)

That is exactly what I am using on my 3250 and it works great. Haven't had any problems on either the 3250 or my Pioneer 3510 before that. And as you pointed out - it's free.

Pahonix, the Dell cable works. That's what I'm using on my 6163. Same situation, it came with my LCD monitor, cable provider doesn't supply one, and I'm also using the SA3250HD. I see no reason to buy a different cable for a 2 meter run.

I am trying to set up my TV using the AVIA disk and have come to two problems so far. THe first one is the sharpness setting, there is really no difference i can see once you get below the point of where there are white outlines. So how low should i set it, cause I dont see really any black blurring on my DLP. The second problem is when i get to color settings, my Tint bar is grayed out and I cant figure out how to unlock it, anyone know how to do this? THe TV is a Samsung HL-P4663.

Also, anyone with the high pitch whining noise should call samsung, they sent out a technician today, he replaced the DLP Engine, and no more whine. The tech said it is indeed the color wheel, but most people replace the engine because the color wheel is such a pain in the ass to get to and replace inside the engine.

Originally posted by grendelrt
I am trying to set up my TV using the AVIA disk and have come to two problems so far. THe first one is the sharpness setting, there is really no difference i can see once you get below the point of where there are white outlines. So how low should i set it, cause I dont see really any black blurring on my DLP. The second problem is when i get to color settings, my Tint bar is grayed out and I cant figure out how to unlock it, anyone know how to do this? THe TV is a Samsung HL-P4663.

Also, anyone with the high pitch whining noise should call samsung, they sent out a technician today, he replaced the DLP Engine, and no more whine. The tech said it is indeed the color wheel, but most people replace the engine because the color wheel is such a pain in the ass to get to and replace inside the engine.

You can't do tint on VGA/DVI inputs, from the User Menu.
You'll need to use the color temp settings, or go into the Service Menu for that.

As for the sharpness - I never saw a difference when actually adjusting it. But I saw a major difference when viewing text (on VGA input for HTPC) when switching from a preset with high sharpness (Dynamic at 65 IIRC) and my Custom at 0. At 65 or whatever, there is a white shadow to the left of the text (ie the AVS forums here), making it much harder to read.
I leave mine at 0 because of this, although between 0-10 is good.



And that's odd about changing the DLP engine...
It seems weird that Samsung would pay for a whole new engine for you when all that needs to be done is replace the tiny color wheel (not more than 2" - 2 1/2" high). I had a tech replace mine, no problem at all. Maybe the tech you had doesn't have very much experience with Sammy DLPs...

My understanding is that if you're using a progressive or HD signal the tint adjust is locked out.

As for the sharpness control, I remember reading somewhere that I doesn't really matter anymore for HDTVs. I'm not too sure about that, so hopefully someone else can answer that.

For those with the high pitched whine that had the color wheel or whole light engine replaced did you hear ANY noise afterwards. I do hear a high pitched whine but I can easily overcome the noise by adjusting the volume up a bit. I would rather not hear it at all but I am not sure if what I am hearing is normal or not. Is there anyone with this DLP that can stick their head beside the tv with volume on mute and not hear a thing? I was at CC to check it out but there is way to much noise in the store to be able to pick up the high pitched whine. I also do not want to have a repair guy come out to say; "yepper that is normal." Thanks, GD

I had a noisy color wheel replaced about 2-3 weeks ago on my HLN. I don't hear anything, although I'm sure if it was in the middle of the night, I could turn the volume down, stick my head around the side of the TV, and hear the fan and maybe the color wheel spinning.

Also, I was up (really) late last night doing some more tweaking on my DVD (VGA) input with this cool program someone posted here. Anyway, I was checking a bunch of DVDs, with the audio off, and I heard nothing sitting from my normal 8-9' viewing distance, and I didn't notice anything when I went up to change the DVDs in my computer under the TV.