Well I am sure it is the color wheel. My DLP sits in a dark area and when turning off the set the high pitched whine will continue for about 7-10 seconds the quit at the same time some light coming from the rear of the set dissapears. At this point I can still hear a low hum, which I presume is the fan. I can hear this high pitched whine sitting 8ft away with the volume on just high enough to watch tv with a quiet house. I will call Samsung.

Yeah, that sounds like the color wheel. You said you just had it replaced a short while ago?

HLP4663W - Currently I am using a Samsung STB 360 box as the only input. The STB has both the Direct TV signal and an antenna coming into it.

At first I tried to use just the DVI from the STB to the HLP, but when I switched between HD and SD or local channels, the picture would go blank, although the sound remained. I then added an S-Video connection in addition to the DVI.

Everything works fine this way, but I have one question. The STB displays the correct resolution on it's display (1080i, 720P, 480i) depending on the channel. However, even when I am on a HD channel and I go into the HLP menu the active input is listed as S-Video, when I try to change it to DVI, the screen goes blank. The DVI selection is on (not grey), but it's not the active one in the menu. Not sure why this menu wouldn't be showing the DVI input as the active one when I'm on a HD channel.

Also, not sure why I had to use the S Video input at all, I didn't have to do this on my CRT HD setup.

Thanks for any ideas.

Just a few thoughts.

You can't do 480i over DVI. I'm not sure how other sets handle it, but between my Motorola box from Comcast and my HLN set, the signal will go in 480i, but it doesn't look good at all - jumping and everything.

Can you set it so 480i signals are de-interlaced and converted to 480p before being sent to the TV over DVI?

Originally posted by cyberbri
Can you set it so 480i signals are de-interlaced and converted to 480p before being sent to the TV over DVI?
You can on my Comcast STB. I can't remember the secret code to get to the correct menu. Check this thread and forum.

Official AVS Comcast / Cableco Moto 5100 / 6200 Topic! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=194404&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

Yeah, you have to turn off the Motorola and press Menu to get into the menu for changing output resolution.

One thing that the Moto doesn't do is pass through the original signal automatically. You select 480p, 720p, or 1080i (should be on 1080i), with non-HD "override" either set to 480p (signal is stretched to fill screen) or "off" (signal is left in 4:3 and upconverted to main output resolution setting, 1080i).

But if his box passes through the signal as-is, he's getting problems with the 480i signal, and needs to try and deinterlace it to 480p.

But if his box passes through the signal as-is, he's getting problems with the 480i signal, and needs to try and deinterlace it to 480p.

Thanks, I'll switch the box (Samsung TS360) from Native setting to 720P, take off the S-Video cable and see if that works. I was hoping the HLP would use the DVI as the primary source and use the S-Video for non HD. I thought I had read something about hooking up the S Video cable for shows where the DVI feed is being blocked by the program (not sure this has happened yet, but I assume it would be for copy protection.)

On my CRT setup I have the output from the box set to 1080i, so that's why there wasn't an issue with the DVI input. I guess when all your inputs going into one STB first, you need to stay away from the STB "Native" modes if you want to use the DVI cable.

My suggestion would be to put it to 1080i, because most HD broadcasts are in 1080i, and this would let the TV donw-convert rather than the cable box. Depending on the quality of the cable box, your TV probably does a better job of converting the signal.


And I've never heard of the DVI being blocked, although it's possible...
I watch all my TV through the DVI cable.

Originally posted by TAR61704
HLP4663W - Currently I am using a Samsung STB 360 box as the only input. The STB has both the Direct TV signal and an antenna coming into it.

At first I tried to use just the DVI from the STB to the HLP, but when I switched between HD and SD or local channels, the picture would go blank, although the sound remained. I then added an S-Video connection in addition to the DVI.

Everything works fine this way, but I have one question. The STB displays the correct resolution on it's display (1080i, 720P, 480i) depending on the channel. However, even when I am on a HD channel and I go into the HLP menu the active input is listed as S-Video, when I try to change it to DVI, the screen goes blank. The DVI selection is on (not grey), but it's not the active one in the menu. Not sure why this menu wouldn't be showing the DVI input as the active one when I'm on a HD channel.

Also, not sure why I had to use the S Video input at all, I didn't have to do this on my CRT HD setup.

Thanks for any ideas.

I also use a Sammy 360, connected via DVI to a HLP6163. There's no reason it shouldn't work the way you want. You don't need the S-Vid cable. The HLP supports HDCP so it won't block any content from the DVI connection.

On the front of the 360, make sure you press the Output Mode button until it displays DVI/RGB on the STB display. I think by default it's set for Component (Y/Pr/Pb).

I set my resolution to 720p, letting the STB convert 1080 and 480 sources. I found that if I use Native, the TV lags between channel changes as it switches input resolutions, and it doesn't look any better anyway.

I don't recommend setting it to 1080i because there are enough 720p sources and I don't want them converted twice (to 1080i by the STB and back to 720p by the TV). By setting to 720p, sources get converted only once or not at all. The TS360 and HLP have the same deinterlacer (FLI23xx), and I think the same scaler as well.

I have the Hughes HTL-HD box and it has a setting for "Variable 1" which passes everything except 480i to the HLP to convert. The box converts 480i to 480p. The Tv will not display 480i via DVI. This seems to work fine except occasionally the TV starts to blink the picture on and off. I then have to cycle through the outputs on the box back to Variable 1 and everything is fine. Anyone else have a similar problem?

I just returned a HLP5063W to Circuit City on Sunday after living with it for 2 weeks in my home. The entire time I had it I felt like I needed new eyeglasses. The picture just isn't very sharp, especially on any object that doesn't occupy a large portion of the screen. Even on good HD cable shows, the detail is fuzzy. The Sony Grand Wega III simply blows the Samsung away on all but ablity to show night scenes well. The detail in the Sony is FAR better on HD shows and DVD's. Both TV's stink on regular cable...the Sony may be a bit better. The Samsung also suffers from "clay faces", and rainbow effects. I am not quite sure how anyone could be pleased with this TV that cost nearly 4K with tax and extended warrranty. I also had the smudged screeen problem that comes and goes. One problem it didn't have was a noisy fan or color wheel. In fact the Sony that I have now has a much louder fan than the Samsung. I would warn any potential buyers to look carefully at the Samsung and make sure its relatively 'soft' picture doesn't irritate you. It does seem that the new space age pedastal models with the HD+2 chip have better sharpness and definition than the HD-3 chip in the 63 series. Maybe Samsung will get my money next time around.

Originally posted by dwette

I set my resolution to 720p, letting the STB convert 1080 and 480 sources. I found that if I use Native, the TV lags between channel changes as it switches input resolutions, and it doesn't look any better anyway.

I don't recommend setting it to 1080i because there are enough 720p sources and I don't want them converted twice (to 1080i by the STB and back to 720p by the TV). By setting to 720p, sources get converted only once or not at all. The TS360 and HLP have the same deinterlacer (FLI23xx), and I think the same scaler as well.

AFAIK, NBC and CBS, as well as the INHD and HDNET networks broadcast in 1080i. ABC and maybe FoxHD or something broadcasts in 720p, and that's as much as I've heard.

If your cable box has better converter to do 1080i->720p, then stick with that setting. But I keep mine on 1080i, because the majority of HD broadcasts are in 1080i. All I get in 720p is ABC, and I don't watch HD stuff on it that much anyway (except for The Days this last summer, and the new lineup looks interesting).

If my Motorola 6200 would pass HD signals through as-is, that would be perfect. But the difference is minimal, in my short amount of time checking (unlike someone who found that his satellite box really sucked at dc'ing all the 1080i broadcasts to 720p and had no choice but to leave the output in 1080i). I'm much more anal about my DVDs (HTPC), since I can make tiny adjustments in real-time, etc....

Tech just installed new light engine assembly in my 5063. Noisy color wheel problem solved.
I had a DVI input problem. Silly me. I was not aware of the source output button on the TS-360. Changing that enabled DVI input to TV.
I was unable to reproduce video lag problem to tech. I tried S-vid, component, and DVI but could not find a channel showing problem. I am thinking now it is a source problem...hopefully.
I am pretty thrilled with the Samsung so far. Even SD channels are watchable.

Originally posted by cyberbri
AFAIK, NBC and CBS, as well as the INHD and HDNET networks broadcast in 1080i. ABC and maybe FoxHD or something broadcasts in 720p, and that's as much as I've heard.


FOX, ABC, ESPN (and I imagine ESPN2 when it goes live) are 720p.

I watch CBS and NBC, but my satellite box does a good job converting them from 1080i to 720p. Same for HDNET and other 1080i channels.

I suppose Bravo HD is 1080i. Not sure about Discovery HD.

I would say in my case I watch just as much 720p HD channels as 1080i.

Ahh. I don't get Fox in HD (hopefully soon), and I don't watch ESPN. Sometimes I'll watch a little sports, because they look so dang good in HD, but that's about it. ;)

Nice HT, btw. I checked out your link.
Very impressive.

Center channel on 43 HLP
About a year ago, I saw a post with a shelf for the center speaker, on a Samsung HLP, 43, purhased at Target. Does anyone have any good ideas for a shelf that would fit and look ok on a sammy 43 Thanks

Originally posted by cyberbri

Nice HT, btw. I checked out your link.
Very impressive.

Thanks. We've really been enjoying it. We've actually invested just as much in the sound portion as video. Good thing we live in a brick house. :)

Looks like you've put together a nice system for yourself as well.

Enjoy...

Dean

Yeah, it amazes me how people spend $3-10K on a TV, and go with a dinky little surround setup. Not that mine is that great, but... I've had my Infinity separates for close to 10 years now, and they sound great (at least I'm used to them). I just need a better (=half-way decent) subwoofer, once we can get settled in a place where there aren't people above us to annoy with the bass, and so my wife doesn't have to constantly tell me to "turn it down" to not annoy the neighbors. That's the only thing I want to upgrade in the near future, although once we settle down, buy a house, etc., I'm looking forward to a bigger set and a nicer sound system. Heck, I saw the 60" HLP at Costco for $[MSRP Only] last weekend...

i have the HLP 5063
i notiched I get some smudges on the right side of my screen in the morning. It goes away after watching about 30 minutes but it seems to be growing. anyone else experience this? is there a way to stop it?

Lately, I have noticed that sometimes the tv comes on, but the picture stays off. It isnt the 3 blinking lights.

When I unplug it and then plug it back in, it seems fine.

I noticed though that this has only happened for me when I was using HDMI last.

Could it be that when I turn on the set, the HDMI input is not functional since my DVD player isnt on and this causes a problem with the tv somehow?

Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Ive seen it only 3 times so far, but it was always with the HDMI input.

My June build HLP5063w also had smudges on the left and right portions of the screen that mainly showed up when white or light scenes were on these areas. The smudges tended to come and go. There have been many postings on here about similar problems. Even the display model at Circuit City has them.....and it is on all day every day. Some have suggested 'patting' the smudged areas with a soft towel. It seems the screen is made of 2 materials, and they are either sticking together, or separating in the smudged areas. I just returned the TV and bought a Sony Grand Wega III, as I was not overly pleased with the 'soft' picture on the Samsung. The Sony has some issues with dark scenes, but a much sharper and more detailed picture. At this time there is NO ideal rear projection TV...I imagine in 5 years or so we can pick up a much improved TV at half todays price.

i called samsung about the smudges and they are going to send a service tech out...not sure what a tech will be able to do. i will let you know how it goes.

Has anyone else had a service tech come out for smudges?

Originally posted by KevInSoCal
Has anyone else had a service tech come out for smudges?
I haven't yet.

I've seen smudges three times right after turning our HLP5063 on. The first time I wiped the screen vertically from top to bottom with a "Micro Fiber" cloth and they went away. The next two times I did nothing and after a while they went away.

The smudges are probably there more often but I didn't notice them because it takes a light background to make them visible. Now that I'm using our PC more, I see them on the desk top.

Originally posted by htwaits
Now that I'm using our PC more, I see them on the desk top.

you mean when you have your pc connected to the tv?

other than some smudges, i love this tv. i hope the tech has some insight that will help.

Originally posted by KevInSoCal
you mean when you have your pc connected to the tv?

Yes. My Windows XP desktop wallpaper is light enough to see the smudges. Most movies hide them.

In any case they don't seem to be there very long. If that changes I'll want to get it fixed.

Re the 'surprise' base on the hlp 6163: I removed it--have your wife hold it while you tip it up, and there's only 10 screws to remove--and I find that it is actually MORE stable than with the base on it. And it also looks much neater.

Also, the width of the set fits the Eksjo stand (from Ikea) perfectly; with the metal frame omitted from this stand, it is 17.5" high, just about perfect. And it has 6 component compartments that are wide enough for all standard components.

The "smudges" are more than likely moisture on the inside of your set, like when you get in your car in the morning and have a little moisture on the inside of the windows. They go away because the inside of the TV is heating up.

People in colder/damper climates will probably more likely see them than someone like myself in San Jose.

This is an issue that has been brought up many times before. :)

Originally posted by cyberbri
People in colder/damper climates will probably more likely see them than someone like myself in San Jose.
That's what I think too, but the first time I saw them was one of our recent "hot" days. The room was probably between 70 and 85 degrees. Anyway its no big deal at the moment.

Originally posted by htwaits
That's what I think too, but the first time I saw them was one of our recent "hot" days. The room was probably between 70 and 85 degrees. Anyway its no big deal at the moment.
that is why i don't believe it has anything do with moisture. I believe the problem is the expansion and contraction of the 2 screens due to temperature. when it is cold the screen may shrink slightly causing some deformation and the screens touch/hot one screen expands and buckles and screens touch.

that is why i am not sure what a tech can do, i believe it is a flaw in the design. is this a problem on the new HD2+ sets?

I am SURE the smudges have nothing to do with moisture. I was at Circuit City this week at 8pm and their floor model was smudged, in spite of having been on for 10 hours. It hasn't even rained in Indianapolis in the past 3 weeks! This is definately a manufacturing/material problem. I could have lived with it, but the rainbows, and fuzzy PQ turned me off to the point of returning it. I was wondering if the 46 inch model might have a sharper pic than the 50 inch?

Originally posted by KevInSoCal
i have the HLP 5063
i notiched I get some smudges on the right side of my screen in the morning. It goes away after watching about 30 minutes but it seems to be growing. anyone else experience this? is there a way to stop it?

Lots of comments in this thread about smudges. I would do a search of the thread to find them all.

Originally posted by RockStrongo
Lately, I have noticed that sometimes the tv comes on, but the picture stays off. It isnt the 3 blinking lights.

When I unplug it and then plug it back in, it seems fine.

I noticed though that this has only happened for me when I was using HDMI last.

Could it be that when I turn on the set, the HDMI input is not functional since my DVD player isnt on and this causes a problem with the tv somehow?

Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Ive seen it only 3 times so far, but it was always with the HDMI input.

Rockstrongo,

I have experienced something similar to what you describe but mine is with component 1 and my DVD player. It seems like a video sync issue. I have tried it with two different DVD players with the same results just not consistently. Sometimes it works fine.

I was suspecting the lamp ballast but now I am not sure. I guess it is time to call Samsung.

Originally posted by millerwill
Re the 'surprise' base on the hlp 6163: I removed it--have your wife hold it while you tip it up, and there's only 10 screws to remove--and I find that it is actually MORE stable than with the base on it. And it also looks much neater.

Also, the width of the set fits the Eksjo stand (from Ikea) perfectly; with the metal frame omitted from this stand, it is 17.5" high, just about perfect. And it has 6 component compartments that are wide enough for all standard components.

I hate this ulgy base...I thought if it was removed that the set would fall forward...are you absolutely positive it is more stable...anybody else removed this base and find it more stable.

Originally posted by Fedreams
Rockstrongo,

I have experienced something similar to what you describe but mine is with component 1 and my DVD player. It seems like a video sync issue. I have tried it with two different DVD players with the same results just not consistently. Sometimes it works fine.

I was suspecting the lamp ballast but now I am not sure. I guess it is time to call Samsung.

Yeah, if it happens much more, ill call them too...I already had the ballast replaced with the new one.

Originally posted by jwv651
I hate this ulgy base...I thought if it was removed that the set would fall forward...are you absolutely positive it is more stable...anybody else removed this base and find it more stable.

Mine is built into the wall and is just fine. I plan to secure it behind the wall at some point due to the kids, but since it is stable for the most part, it hasn't happened yet. I don't have much experience with the base on, but it rocked on the floor just as much with the base on as it did off. You can always put the base back on if you decide to. It's easier to take the base off than it is to use the remote.

Originally posted by jwv651
I hate this ulgy base...I thought if it was removed that the set would fall forward...are you absolutely positive it is more stable...anybody else removed this base and find it more stable.

I removed my base first thing, and have it sitting on the stand I originally got with a HLM617W. It's perfectly stable, and likely more so since there's more surface area to the real base.

Samsung documentation even notes it's removable.

jwv651: Yes, I certainly do find it more stable without the base than with it. Still, here in earthquake country, I do have the set attached to the back wall by a velcro gizzmo that my wife found (as I did my previous Proscan 36"). One puts some hefty screws into the wall (into the studs) behind the set, and there are two straps from them that attach via velcro to the back of the TV. Works quite well, and simply; wouldn't help in a MAJOR earthquake, but would keep it from falling over in modest shake (including that from children, or in my case, grandchildren).

Originally posted by RockStrongo
Lately, I have noticed that sometimes the tv comes on, but the picture stays off. It isnt the 3 blinking lights.

When I unplug it and then plug it back in, it seems fine.

I noticed though that this has only happened for me when I was using HDMI last.

Could it be that when I turn on the set, the HDMI input is not functional since my DVD player isnt on and this causes a problem with the tv somehow?

Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Ive seen it only 3 times so far, but it was always with the HDMI input.

It started happening to me last week too. The green power light blinks, just sound but no picture. It happened about 4 times now, I unplug it and it usually powers up fine. I have tech coming out to replace the light engine. It may be the ballast is about to go bad or a fan is not starting causing it to shut down. I have a smudge on mine too, about center on the screen. Tech has told me it may be the bulb. Anyway, a new light engine may fix these problems.

Looks like the base on the HLP6163 will be coming off this weekend...so what is the best way to remove it...have two people lift it up and one unscrew it.

Originally posted by King of Pain
It started happening to me last week too. The green power light blinks, just sound but no picture. It happened about 4 times now, I unplug it and it usually powers up fine. I have tech coming out to replace the light engine. It may be the ballast is about to go bad or a fan is not starting causing it to shut down. I have a smudge on mine too, about center on the screen. Tech has told me it may be the bulb. Anyway, a new light engine may fix these problems.

King of Pain and RockStrongo,

Same thing started happening to me this week. Finally got the 3 blinking lights last night. Picture took longer and longer to come on when I powered up the set until last night - now just the three blinking lights.

The position of those lights in the circular power button combined with their blink rate strikes me as an evil face just laughing at me... :(

Oh well, I guess I had a feeling that it might happen to me sooner or later.

Got a call in to Samsung and they set me up with a service center which they say is "A" class - whatever that means. They are supposed to call me within 48 hours. Guess I'll miss the Giants game in HD this weekend - bummer.

-Chris

Originally posted by King of Pain
It started happening to me last week too. The green power light blinks, just sound but no picture. It happened about 4 times now, I unplug it and it usually powers up fine. I have tech coming out to replace the light engine. It may be the ballast is about to go bad or a fan is not starting causing it to shut down. I have a smudge on mine too, about center on the screen. Tech has told me it may be the bulb. Anyway, a new light engine may fix these problems.

Cool....keep us updated

Same thing started happening to me this week. Finally got the 3 blinking lights last night. Picture took longer and longer to come on when I powered up the set until last night - now just the three blinking lights.

Just got a call from the local tech. He is ordering a new light engine for me which will hopefully arrive on Tuesday and be installed on Wednesday.

No HD football this weekend... :(

Anybody view pictures from like a kodak picture CD on their DLP? I would like to start making photo albums on CD and need to know what picture size and resolution would best fit my TV? I would like to beable to view them widesceen and use the full TVs screen.

Regarding my high pitched whine; I talked to my local tech and they are waiting on a color wheel and said it may be awhile. What awhile is they couldn't say. I can't complain since atleast I have some tube. Just a little noisy tube.

I had the 3 blinking lights on my HLP61" funny thing when I unplugged it and plugged it back in...it would work...did this 3-4 times...Tech replaced the bulb and now works great...Smudges are in between the two screens...Samsung is replacing mine...when they receive them...on back order. Tech told me he has replaced numerous screens with this same problem...it is a 10-15 minute job...very easy to do.

Originally posted by jwv651
I had the 3 blinking lights on my HLP61" funny thing when I unplugged it and plugged it back in...it would work...did this 3-4 times...

I'll try this on Sunday for football. I'm spoiled now. Watching SD football on my 32" CRT is gonna be difficult. Hope the unplugging trick works...

Thanks

Chris523,

Would be curious to know whether or not the PQ of your set improves with the new LE. Since you have a 61", which was probably made after June it may not. For my 5063, made in April, when Samsung came to replace the LE, I noticed a fairly dramatic improvement in PQ - I think I had an older LE model.

Overall I was very impressed w/ Samsung tech support. Let us know how everything goes.

Just got my 5063 and hooked it up over the weekend. I have digital cable. Right now I have the tv hooked up as suggested in the owner's manual:

Ant. 1 - cable from wall
Ant. out from tv to Ant. in on Motorola digital cable box
Out from digital cable box to Ant. in on VCR
Out from VCR to Ant. 2 in on tv

I also have S-video from cable box to receiver to tv. I don't notice much of a difference in PQ between Antenna 2 and S-video.

I have a couple of issues:

Through Ant. 1, SD looks almost as good as the digital channels. When I switch to Ant. 2 or S-video (for cable box use), the analog channels look very grainy. Is this just because the Motorola has a poor tuner for SD? The digital channels look very good.

Also, I have an issue with my cable box. Some of the digital channels are not coming in clear (blocky picture) and some are not coming in at all. I have also lost my PPV channel. This happens on both Ant. 2 and S-video. I get an error message saying that the box is initializing.
I assume that since I am able to receive some of the channels that my connections are correct. Also the cable box worked fine on my old tv. I'm going to call my cable provider today to see if there is a reset for the cable box, or if I need to exchange for a new one.

Just wondering if anybody had any suggestions. Thanks.

EricScott,

I'll definitely let you know.

I tried jwv651's suggestion of unplugging it and plugging it back in. It worked. I then left the TV on from Saturday morning until Sunday night so I was sure that I could watch football in HD. Thanks again for the info jwv651.

Eric, Joe and everybody else - Thanks for all of your time and suggestions. IT is very much appreciated!!! :)

-Chris

The other added benefit of a new LE is a brand new bulb. So leave that sucker on until Weds. :)

Originally posted by canaugle
Just got my 5063 and hooked it up over the weekend. I have digital cable. Right now I have the tv hooked up as suggested in the owner's manual:

Ant. 1 - cable from wall
Ant. out from tv to Ant. in on Motorola digital cable box
Out from digital cable box to Ant. in on VCR
Out from VCR to Ant. 2 in on tv

I also have S-video from cable box to receiver to tv. I don't notice much of a difference in PQ between Antenna 2 and S-video.

I have a couple of issues:

Through Ant. 1, SD looks almost as good as the digital channels. When I switch to Ant. 2 or S-video (for cable box use), the analog channels look very grainy. Is this just because the Motorola has a poor tuner for SD? The digital channels look very good.

Also, I have an issue with my cable box. Some of the digital channels are not coming in clear (blocky picture) and some are not coming in at all. I have also lost my PPV channel. This happens on both Ant. 2 and S-video. I get an error message saying that the box is initializing.
I assume that since I am able to receive some of the channels that my connections are correct. Also the cable box worked fine on my old tv. I'm going to call my cable provider today to see if there is a reset for the cable box, or if I need to exchange for a new one.

Just wondering if anybody had any suggestions. Thanks.


It may be the cable box.

But you might also try hooking the cable straight into the cable box, then out to TV through coax and S-video. See how your picture changes. The signal may be losing strength by being passed through the TV, then finally to the cable box, then back through the VCR before it reaches the TV again. That could really be degrading your signal.

Some people split the cable at the wall, and send one half to the TV, one to the cable box.


What I do is hook the wall up to the cable box, use antenna, S-video and DVI out to the TV, and from the TV coax to the VCR, and VCR to TV through composite.

But I only use DVI for watching cable (better picture - can also use component cables), and S-video only for PIP purposes (when using VGA for HTPC). If you split the cable at the wall and send it to the TV and the cable box, you can have separate stations for PIP - watch HD channel and keep PIP on SD-ABC to wait for game to be over to watch the next show.


Your cleanest signal may come by going wall-to-cable box, cable box-to-TV-over DVI/component.

Originally posted by cyberbri
It may be the cable box.

But you might also try hooking the cable straight into the cable box, then out to TV through coax and S-video. See how your picture changes. The signal may be losing strength by being passed through the TV, then finally to the cable box, then back through the VCR before it reaches the TV again. That could really be degrading your signal.

Some people split the cable at the wall, and send one half to the TV, one to the cable box.


What I do is hook the wall up to the cable box, use antenna, S-video and DVI out to the TV, and from the TV coax to the VCR, and VCR to TV through composite.

But I only use DVI for watching cable (better picture - can also use component cables), and S-video only for PIP purposes (when using VGA for HTPC). If you split the cable at the wall and send it to the TV and the cable box, you can have separate stations for PIP - watch HD channel and keep PIP on SD-ABC to wait for game to be over to watch the next show.


Your cleanest signal may come by going wall-to-cable box, cable box-to-TV-over DVI/component.

Thanks Cyberbri. I'll try going to the cable box first tonight and see if that changes anything. I am very surprised how good SD looks through the feed from the wall right now though. It's much better than I expected. And DVD's even thru component look amazing.

Right now I only have digital cable, not HD cable, so I don't have component or DVI from the cable box. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth $12/mo. extra for 7 HD channels. Hopefully Insight will be expanding their HD channels soon!

Is there an easy way to switch between Ant. 1 and Ant. 2 without going through the menu? I don't think you can do it through the "source" button on the remote, but I may be wrong. I've only had a few hours to play around with it so far.

Sure thing. Glad to help.

Nope, I think just the Input button...

After researching my purchase for several weeks via this forum, I recently purchased a Samsung HLP6163. I have been very satisfied with the set overall. However, two issues have cropped up in the past few days that I need some help with.

The first issue affects the picture quality. I initially noticed it when displaying a full-screen, uniform white image. Near the lefthand edge of the screen, several irregular smudges were clearly visible. Thinking that some foreign substance on the screen could be present, I examined the display surface in the affected areas but found nothing. I was able to reproduce the problem on component, RGB, and HDMI inputs, eliminating any one external device or cable as the potential cause. After the set had been on for 30 to 45 minutes, I was unable to reproduce the issue. It has since recurred consistently and goes away after the set has been on for a while.

The smudges are most noticeable when any bright, uniform color is displayed in the affected area. I can find them easily when viewing blue and green backgrounds of Tivo menus, and they can't be missed with white. They become more or less visible depending on the horizontal viewing angle and are most apparent when viewed straight on.

The second issue affects the internal TV speakers. Like the visual issue described above, this problem occurs only during the initial "warm up" period after switching the set on, then subsides. The right speaker has begun hissing intermittently. The noise varies in volume and comes and goes erratically during the first 30 minutes or so after powering on. I utilize an external A/V receiver for sound and thus have activated the TV's internal mute feature via the menu. Disabling/enabling internal mute has no effect on the hissing noise, and neither does adjusting the TV volume (though the internal speakers still function normally otherwise). The hissing sound remains constant, regardless of the settings of any volume controls. Obviously, this compromises the viewing environment significantly.

Has anyone else experienced these issues? If so, what can be done to rectify these problems? Thanks in advance for your advice.

The first one sounds like the sumdges, a known problem. You could have that looked at/replaced by Samsung, except with your second issue, I would suggest either calling Samsung about it, or exchanging it for a new set.

i had smudges on my screen, followed the advice in this thread and now they are gone. If this does not get rid of them, samsung will replace the screen for you.

Have my Sammy 6163 connected in a relatively standard way: DVI from a COMCAST moto 6200 to the 6163, fiber optics cable from the 6200 to an AV receiver (Onkyo 520 of the HTiB 770 system). [Also have a Sam 841 DVD connected to the 6163 via a DVI to HDMI cable, with another fiber optics cable from the 841 to the receiver.]

Everything works fine, but one can of course not use the PIP facility with the DVI from the cable box to the tv. Is there anything on CAN do to regain the use of PIP, or is one just stuck without it if one wants the high quality that the DVI afford?

I can use PIP on my HLN with DVI input. I have my S-video out from my cable box hooked up so I can still see the TV image when using my computer over VGA.

But what you can do is split the coax signal from the wall, and hook one straight to the TV and the other to the cable box. This would let you view standard channels through the coax (antenna input).

cyberbri: Thanks for the reply. But doesn't splitting the coax signal out from the wall run the risk of degrading the PQ to both inputs? Also, would the PIP only work with 'standard' channels and not with all channles?

Your signal should be good enough to split. Check your HD channels to make sure. It's running it through the TV, then to the cable box, then the VCR and back to the TV that degrades it.

But your TV will determine what you can get without the cable box. Of course, without an HD tuner, you can't see the HD channels that way. I don't know about digital, though. I always use the cable box. But probably not, I would guess. Just analog channels.

Cyberbri,

I followed your suggestion about splitting the cable at the wall and running one to the tv and one to the cable box, and everything works fine now. Apparently it was the "coax out" from the tv that was causing degradation of the signal. Bypassing that has fixed the problem and all channels are coming in clear. Thanks for the suggestion!

I'm still tweaking the picture on the various inputs, but one thing I've noticed is that SD through Ant. 1 (coax from splitter at wall to tv) looks better with DNR on and DNIE off, and then I made a slight manual adjustment in the fine tuning. I used Monday Night Football as my picture to tweak. I think turning DNIE off took away some excessive edge enhancement. The picture is slightly softer but is better overall for SD.

Then I watched Die Another Day through the PPV feature on digital cable. Feed was through S-video. There was a lot of jaggies here. Not horrible, but noticeable. It was getting late so I didn't try any tweaks to see if I could get the picture any better. I would guess that the jaggies were due to compression and/or the S-video feed? Maybe a component or DVI feed would fix this, but my cable box doesn't have that option. DVD through component looks great, no jaggies or any other problems.

Try these User Menu settings:

Contrast - 95-100
Brightness 45-55
Sharpness - 0-10
Color 45-55


Having sharpness up may give you excess noise and sharpening, which makes the picture look worse, not sharper.


After the set has been broken in for 100 hours or so, you can tweak the SM if you feel like it, or have it professionally calibrated. It's partly the signal, but a lot of it is the setup of the set as well. My SD and DVD picture quality improved greatly with a few tweaks to my SM.

These are the User Menu settings that I have also found to be best for me (have had a 6163 for about 2 months). Also, I am in Cinema Mode for these settings.

Originally posted by millerwill
These are the User Menu settings that I have also found to be best for me (have had a 6163 for about 2 months). Also, I am in Cinema Mode for these settings.

For what source millerwill? Do you use Cinema for regular TV (HD/SD) viewing or just for DVD?

I have more or less the same settings, under Standard for TV and under Cinema for DVD, but I'm no expert on these things.

For my HLN, I have the four settings, plus one custom. If I go to any of the presets and try to change the settings, that gets set to my Custom setting.

I know this isn't how it works with the HLPs. But If you say, change the Cinema preset to the same settings as Dynamic or Standard, do they look the same? Or are there other adjustments being made in each preset besides the configurable br/ct/sh/clr settings?

You would think that they are all configurable, so you could say have Dynamic for watching TV during the day, and have cinema configured for watching movies at night.

Originally posted by cyberbri
For my HLN, I have the four settings, plus one custom. If I go to any of the presets and try to change the settings, that gets set to my Custom setting.

I know this isn't how it works with the HLPs. But If you say, change the Cinema preset to the same settings as Dynamic or Standard, do they look the same? Or are there other adjustments being made in each preset besides the configurable br/ct/sh/clr settings?

You would think that they are all configurable, so you could say have Dynamic for watching TV during the day, and have cinema configured for watching movies at night.

If you use identical settings for Cinema and Standard on the HLP, the picture is quite different. Not sure what the other differences are or how you adjust them but Cinema and Standard are fundamentally diferent on the HLP.

EricScott and Cyberbri:

I also use Cinema for everything (HD and SD tv, and DVD), with the settings in the range Cyberbri listed above. If I change to Standard Mode, then (just as EricScott noted) I find a big change--much lighter, too much so for me in daylight or evening. One can, though, set the User Menu settings to different values in each Mode, and these are remembered. So if one does decide to use Standard Mode in daytime, for example, one can optimize the User Menu settings for this, and then change to Cinema Mode in the evening perhaps, and the User Menu settings for each are remembered separately. Quite nice and convenient!

PS Forgot to note my equipment: hlp 6163, connected via COMCAST moto 6200 and to a Sammy 841 DVD (soon to be exchaned for either the Denon 1910 or 2910, depending on the upcoming reviews).

Originally posted by EricScott
If you use identical settings for Cinema and Standard on the HLP, the picture is quite different. Not sure what the other differences are or how you adjust them but Cinema and Standard are fundamentally diferent on the HLP.

I believe the fundamental difference between the modes is color temperature (essentially the reference color of white). Assuming this is correct, it would explain why each mode looks different even if they are otherwise set the same. I almost always leave mine on Cinema since it looks the most natural to me; but occasionally on SD programming I'll switch it to standard, especially on some programs that look a bit washed-out. I also tend to use standard mode on games.

Originally posted by EricScott
If you use identical settings for Cinema and Standard on the HLP, the picture is quite different. Not sure what the other differences are or how you adjust them but Cinema and Standard are fundamentally diferent on the HLP.


Ahh. Maybe there's something in the Service Menu. Then again, maybe not...

On my HLN, basically Dynamic has CT of 100, Standard has 90 or 95, and Cinema has 80 or 85. Brightness/color is also off a bit. But dropping Contrast from 100 to 85 has a huge affect on the brightness (amount of light) in the picture - whites become 20-30% grey.

Contrast is fine for me at 100 (with calibrated SM). It's the Brightness (blacks) that are affected the most. I calibrate my set at night, because that's when I watch movies and dramas (which have dark scenes). But to get the same shadow detail during the day, I have to boost brightness from 50 to 70 in the User Menu, or if watching DVDs, boost br/ct in ffdshow just to get the same picture (this is with blinds closed, but sunlight hits our living and dining rooms from 11 to 6 every day). Luckily during the day we don't watch anything with a lot of darks/blacks.

I guess it's like the light in your car dashboard. You have to turn it up really high to tell it's on during the day, but you can turn it way down and still see it fine at night.

I'm also using Cinema mode for all inputs. My tv is the basement with very little natural light. Standard is a tad too bright for me.

Originally posted by chris523
EricScott,

I'll definitely let you know.

I tried jwv651's suggestion of unplugging it and plugging it back in. It worked. I then left the TV on from Saturday morning until Sunday night so I was sure that I could watch football in HD. Thanks again for the info jwv651.

Eric, Joe and everybody else - Thanks for all of your time and suggestions. IT is very much appreciated!!! :)

-Chris

When you say light engine...is this the part that cost around $200...I had my lamp replaced and it was a black box with the lamp inside...is this what they call a light engine.

I'm not exactly sure, but I don't think so.

The tech that I spoke with on the phone stated that the light engine contained the lamp, ballast and some other stuff. He said he wanted to replace the light engine so we could be sure the problem was fixed rather than first trying a bulb and then a ballast if that didn't work, etc...

The light engine contains the lamp, ballast, color wheel, chip and a bunch of other stuff. I heard that it's more like a $1600 part - basically all the important parts of the TV.

Originally posted by cyberbri
Try these User Menu settings:

Contrast - 95-100
Brightness 45-55
Sharpness - 0-10
Color 45-55


Having sharpness up may give you excess noise and sharpening, which makes the picture look worse, not sharper. .....




Sharpness on my hlp4663 has zero affect on Svideo, component or DVI. Samsung can't seem to agree if it should be greyed out on the user menu or not. Also, if you decide to go into the service menu, write down all your user settings because accessing service menu seems to reset all of the inputs back to factory settings.

I agree with timclark: I have never found the Sharpness setting to affect ANYTHING.

Originally posted by millerwill
I agree with timclark: I have never found the Sharpness setting to affect ANYTHING.

Same here, no effect on anything...I'm on v_1033.
Be aware the DVI IR codes no longer work, and WIDE_PC now has on-screen size controls for DVI input. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=453079)

Originally posted by chris523
EricScott,

I'll definitely let you know.

I tried jwv651's suggestion of unplugging it and plugging it back in. It worked. I then left the TV on from Saturday morning until Sunday night so I was sure that I could watch football in HD. Thanks again for the info jwv651.

Eric, Joe and everybody else - Thanks for all of your time and suggestions. IT is very much appreciated!!! :)

-Chris

I left mine on for 6 straight days...knowing he was going to replaced the bulb anyway's...let us know how it goes.

You can't see differences in Sharpness as you lower/raise the setting.

But if you have two presets with identical settings, and have one with 0 SH and the other with 50+ SH, you can probably tell a difference. Maybe not on everything. But when using my VGA input, I can especially see a big white shadow to the bottom-right of text, like when viewing this forum, approximately the width of the text (like a dropshadow almost).

Try going from 0 to 100 and back on different sources, channels, types of shows, etc. But believe me, it does affect it, even if it's not as major as affecting the convergence in the corners like my old 32" JVC CRT.

Originally posted by EricScott
The light engine contains the lamp, ballast, color wheel, chip and a bunch of other stuff. I heard that it's more like a $1600 part - basically all the important parts of the TV.


Then it's ironic that I keep hearing about techs replacing complete light engines just because of noisy color wheels. My tech just took my color wheel out and put in a new one, but other people have said that the techs say it's 'easier' to just do the whole engine. If it takes 5 more minutes to get the color wheel out of the engine, wouldn't that be saving them a ton more money? Hmm...

Originally posted by cyberbri
Then it's ironic that I keep hearing about techs replacing complete light engines just because of noisy color wheels. My tech just took my color wheel out and put in a new one, but other people have said that the techs say it's 'easier' to just do the whole engine. If it takes 5 more minutes to get the color wheel out of the engine, wouldn't that be saving them a ton more money? Hmm...

Yes absolutely. I got an entire new LE when all I needed was a new ballast and bulb. I specifically requested it since I had one of the earlier HLPs (built in April) and heard that the PQ in the new LE was superior. And it is.

This is why I was so pleased w/ Samsung tech support. They came prepared with an entire new LE and while the "required" fix was simply to change the ballast they went the extra mile to make me happy and gave me the new light engine.

If I were you I wouldn't have been keen on them taking apart the LE to remove the color wheel and replace it but it sounds like it worked fine. Removing the LE and sliding in the new one took all of 5 minutes.

I asked him as he started, "Will you be replacing the whole light engine?" He said, "No, this is just the color wheel. No need to replace the whole engine just for that." (or something to that effect, IIRC).

I wouldn't have minded a new LE for my HLN, but anyway, I'm not complaining. My PQ looks great, and the only other thing I would want to do is line the inside to improve blacks and reduce IR...

Originally posted by jwv651
I left mine on for 6 straight days...knowing he was going to replaced the bulb anyway's...let us know how it goes.

Just got a call from the tech. He said the LE didn't arrive yet. He said that Samsung usually sends them overnight but he didn't receive any yet.:(

Unfortunately, the next day I'll be available for him to install it is next Wednesday. So I'll either just leave the set on like you did Joe, or try unplugging it again if it fails to start.

Kind of a bummer but I guess I don't have any choice except to be patient.

Chris 523,

If you wouldn't mind checking what firmware version you currently have and then rechecking after you get the new LE, it would be pretty helpful to me and others reading this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=453079

You just go into the SM (mute / 1-8-2 / power, while the TV is off) and select the first menu item - it's listed at the bottom - T_ATLNUS_xxxx where xxxx is your version number. Going into the SM resets your settings so you may want to do this just b/f the tech comes or write down your UM settings.

I have 1013 on my "new" LE but it appears there are much newer versions. Apparently the firmware is tied to the circuit boards and not the LE but would like to try to verify.

Thanks,
Eric

Originally posted by EricScott
Chris 523,

If you wouldn't mind checking what firmware version you currently have and then rechecking after you get the new LE, it would be pretty helpful to me and others reading this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=453079

You just go into the SM (mute 1-8-2 power, while the TV is off) and select the first menu item - it's listed at the bottom - T_ATLNUS_xxxx where xxxx is your version number.

I have 1013 on my "new" LE but it appears there are much newer versions. Apparently the firmware is tied to the boards and not the LE but would like to try to verify.

Thanks,
Eric

Hi Eric,

My current version is: T_ATLNUS_1024. I'll let you know what the new version is when the LE finally gets installed.

-Chris

Originally posted by chris523
Hi Eric,

My current version is: T_ATLNUS_1024. I'll let you know what the new version is when the LE finally gets installed.

-Chris

Great. Thanks.

If your FW remains 1024 than that will likely prove that the FW has nothing to do with the LE. Unfortunately I never checked my FW for my old LE so I can't do this on my own.

Originally posted by millerwill
EricScott and Cyberbri:

I also use Cinema for everything (HD and SD tv, and DVD), with the settings in the range Cyberbri listed above. If I change to Standard Mode, then (just as EricScott noted) I find a big change--much lighter, too much so for me in daylight or evening. One can, though, set the User Menu settings to different values in each Mode, and these are remembered. So if one does decide to use Standard Mode in daytime, for example, one can optimize the User Menu settings for this, and then change to Cinema Mode in the evening perhaps, and the User Menu settings for each are remembered separately. Quite nice and convenient!

Millerwill,

Tried using Cinema last night for regular HD viewing, with more or less the settings you posted above, and I really liked it. Since I got my new LE, I've felt the colors (esp. skin tones in dark scenes) were off for shows like L&O SVU and the CSI's (I know their colors are weird to start with). Watched recorded HD episodes of L&O SVU and CSI Miami last night with Cinema and it looked a lot better. Switching back to Standard made everything look unrealistically bright.

I'm guessing I will use Standard for sports though.

It's easy enough to switch back and forth and see which looks best. I've found that Cinema is also great for sports, especially if it's in HD (e.g., MNF).

Anyone with an **85 tell me where the inputs on the back of the set are? In the TINY photo of the rear that I found online it looks they are all the way at the BOTTOM of the stand, by the floor.

Jason

Originally posted by EricScott
Great. Thanks.

If your FW remains 1024 than that will likely prove that the FW has nothing to do with the LE. Unfortunately I never checked my FW for my old LE so I can't do this on my own.

The FW version is for the digital board, whiich is a separate component from the light engine. Your FW only changes when a new digital board is installed.

Originally posted by chris523
Hi Eric,

My current version is: T_ATLNUS_1024. I'll let you know what the new version is when the LE finally gets installed.

-Chris
My HLP61" June 2004 build has version T_ATLNUS_1024 also...Please ask the Tech guy if they upgraded the light engine on the 61" from the June build date.

Originally posted by chris523
Hi Eric,

My current version is: T_ATLNUS_1024. I'll let you know what the new version is when the LE finally gets installed.

-Chris
My HLP61" June 2004 build has version T_ATLNUS_1024 also...Please ask the Tech guy if they upgraded the light engine on the 61" from the June build date.

Originally posted by jdstarr
Anyone with an **85 tell me where the inputs on the back of the set are? In the TINY photo of the rear that I found online it looks they are all the way at the BOTTOM of the stand, by the floor.

Jason

On my HLP5085 there are: (and they are down by the floor)

2 Svideo/composite/ stereo in
2 component in / stereo in
1 HMDI in
1 DVI in
1 PC-SVGA (15 pin) + PC audio in

1 stereo audio out
1 composite video out

antenna 1 in (RG6)
antenna 1 out
antenna 2 in

1 service jack

FYI - Some of the highest rez pics of the Sammy and many other TVs are at Crutchfield.com. They include close-ups of the remote and input panels as well.

3 month old HLP5063. XBox on component 1 input was experiencing video signal dropouts (worst with subtitled movies for some reason). Techs just came today and installed a new digital board. I watched over their shoulders and they seemed to do a meticulous job of making the part change. I put a dvd in, the picture is great, no dropouts. We are all happy, they leave.

A couple hours later, I go to watch something on tivo through av1. The picture is horrible - colors are all super-saturated, to the point that anything yellow, red or orange is basically a white blob. All component and s-vid inputs are fine and normal. I rearrange things a bit and find that av1 through av3 are all the same. I adjust everything possible in the normal PQ adjust menus, but it just makes for slightly different white blobs.

Is there anything else I can try to fix this, or do I have to wait for another tech time slot to open up? Are there any known issues with just replacing the digital board but not the signal board? Has anyone else seen this?

Thanks for any advice/info.

Originally posted by RickDias
3 month old HLP5063. XBox on component 1 input was experiencing video signal dropouts (worst with subtitled movies for some reason). Techs just came today and installed a new digital board. I watched over their shoulders and they seemed to do a meticulous job of making the part change. I put a dvd in, the picture is great, no dropouts. We are all happy, they leave.

A couple hours later, I go to watch something on tivo through av1. The picture is horrible - colors are all super-saturated, to the point that anything yellow, red or orange is basically a white blob. All component and s-vid inputs are fine and normal. I rearrange things a bit and find that av1 through av3 are all the same. I adjust everything possible in the normal PQ adjust menus, but it just makes for slightly different white blobs.

Is there anything else I can try to fix this, or do I have to wait for another tech time slot to open up? Are there any known issues with just replacing the digital board but not the signal board? Has anyone else seen this?

Thanks for any advice/info.

Interesting! I have a tech coming out on Tuesday for the video drop out problem. I was thinking it was the light ballast not the digital board.

Maybe the digital board needs time to stabilize, it is a new circuit.

Originally posted by Fedreams
Maybe the digital board needs time to stabilize, it is a new circuit.

I was thinking of giving a Samsung HLP4653 a try after returning the 50 inch model over its rather fuzzy picture. I now have a Sony 42 inch GWIII and the pic is much sharper....but I really want a bigger TV. All these posts on here and other sites about Samsung problems are really scary though. The early Sony's had bulb and ballast issues, but not many others. These Samsungs seem to be an ongoing nightmare for many people, and even the June and July builds are having problems. Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles? It seems like the majority are having issues early on. And let's remember only a tiny fraction of owners with bad TV's are bothering to post on this or similar sites. I would think Samsung would be going broke with all these quality issues. I can say though that all the lip sync complaints are mostly with the broadcasts, since it only occurs on certain channels. In Indianapolis, NBC's HD channel is terrible for this. I have the same lip sync issues on the Sony as on the Samsung. I appreciate anyones input on Samsung reliability.

Originally posted by AlanBuck
Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles?

That is going to be tough given that the first HLPs shipped in early/mid June. :)

What I can tell you is that while I did have the 3BL (bulb/ballast issue) problem, Samsung tech support went above and beyond the call in replacing my ENTIRE LIGHT ENGINE (a $1600 part) at my request (since I had an early build set, I wanted the newest LE) to solve the problem. Three days after I noticed the problem, they were at my front door and fixed it in less than 30 minutes. From what I understand, Sony's warranty period and service is vastly inferior to Samsung's and other CE manufacturers' for that matter.

BTW, I was in the first TVA PB batch and got my set on June 14th.

Originally posted by AlanBuck
Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles?

I have to say that I am not comfortable with the Samsung 4663 experience so far. I am definitely glad I went for the extended warranty as I suspect it will be needed although dealer service has not been involved at all so far, just Samsung.

It is kind of like waiting for the other shoe to drop. Something I never felt with the last TV (Sony XBR36-400). If I had had the extra space to allow speakers on the side of the set, I would have probably looked at the Sony LCDs.

It if weren't for the screen reflections, I would have definitely gone for a 46" rear projection CRT like the Sony or Hitachi.

Oh well, I made my bed.... You know the rest.

TWC

Originally posted by AlanBuck
All these posts on here and other sites about Samsung problems are really scary though.

True but that's what this forum does -- it concentrates trouble reports coming from folks looking for help.

These Samsungs seem to be an ongoing nightmare for many people, and even the June and July builds are having problems.

There are some nightmare stories but not many considering the number of DLP sets that have been sold.

Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles?

Why would anyone report that to a forum like this? Some do, but again a small number in relation to the sets being sold by Samsung.

It seems like the majority are having issues early on.

If you mean that those that have trouble tend to have it early on then I agree. The majority?

And let's remember only a tiny fraction of owners with bad TV's are bothering to post on this or similar sites.

Probably true again but how many trouble free owners bother to report anything anywhere?

I would think Samsung would be going broke with all these quality issues.

They don't seem to be. They seem to have sold a lot of DLP sets.

I've had a 6163 since the first week of August (when they first came out) and have had none of the problems I've read about here (though I still do get useful info from you guys!). The set has been a delight in all regards.

Originally posted by millerwill
I've had a 6163 since the first week of August (when they first came out) and have had none of the problems I've read about here (though I still do get useful info from you guys!). The set has been a delight in all regards.

I also have had mine since the first week of August. I have loved it so far.

The only significant problem that I have had was the three blinking lights issue (actually only happened once). A tech fixed it within 24 hours of the report and its been working well every since.

If I could go back and make the decision again, I would choose the same set. ;)

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by AlanBuck
Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



That is going to be tough given that the first HLPs shipped in early/mid June.

What I can tell you is that while I did have the 3BL (bulb/ballast issue) problem, Samsung tech support went above and beyond the call in replacing my ENTIRE LIGHT ENGINE (a $1600 part) at my request (since I had an early build set, I wanted the newest LE) to solve the problem. Three days after I noticed the problem, they were at my front door and fixed it in less than 30 minutes. From what I understand, Sony's warranty period and service is vastly inferior to Samsung's and other CE manufacturers' for that matter.

BTW, I was in the first TVA PB batch and got my set on June 14th.

There is a Satisfaction Poll forum which shows the 100% steadily growing. I've had my 5063 for 10-weeks with no problems whatsoever. It is a July 2004 Mexico build.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by AlanBuck
Is there anyone that can say they have had a Samsung DLP for at least 6 months with NO troubles?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I received my 5063 in the first batch of Power Buy sets along with EricScott.
No problems ever. 100% satisified. Its an April Build set.

Originally posted by htwaits


Regarding the latest comments about Samsung reliablity, I find it hard to believe all these problems are rare, given the MANY postings on various sites about troubles with these TV's. It would be nice to know what percentage are actually having issues, but there is no way to know if it's 10% or 80%. Even 10% is way too high for a new and expensive product. I have owned about 10 televisions in the past , and NEVER once had a bad one within the first 3 years of ownership. In fact, all but one ran for at least 8 years! Good luck finding a Sammy DLP that can pull that off! There are obviously serious quality/reliablity problems with these sets. When I asked if anyone can say they got even 6 months of troublefree service on a DLP, that would include the HLN models which have certainly been out that long. As for warranties, the Sony and the Samsung have identical warranties. I cannot vouch for which one would have superior customer service. From the postings it does seem that Samsung is TRYING to make people happy with their high priced, and unreliable televisions. I do think the DLP has a lot of potential, but the execution thus far is pretty scary. And please note that just because Samsung is selling a lot of DLP's is not a guarantee that they are making money on them, after all these warranty, and return issues. The airlines planes are full, and most of them are losing money. Volume doesn't guarantee profits. What are all these people going to do when their 4 year extended warranties run out, and they are faced with $1200.00 repair bills? I guess by then we can hope a new and better large screen TV may not cost much over $1500.00.

may be you can start a poll, to get better indication..

i spent $7K on my pioneer elite RPTV that ditched me after 4 years! and I am not happy

Alan,

Sounds like you've made up your mind. If you are happy with your Sony than that's great - don't really see why you would ask and then answer your own question about DLP reliability.

As for my comment about Sony warranty service, I don't have specific examples but I thought I remember reading about Sony refusing to do anything for people who got their brand new sets home and had missing/burnt out pixels, which in my opinion is unacceptable.

I have never had to get service on a TV before either, but then again my previous TVs weren't nearly as sophisticated as this one. There is a lot more that could go wrong with these newer TVs and it's just something you have to deal with. Once again, if your have a Sony that doesn't appear to have anything wrong with it, then that's great - enjoy your set and stop worrying about / trying to justify your purchase.

No HDTV on the market these days is perfect. However, I love my Samsung and if I had to pick another HDTV today, knowing everything I've learned since I got my set, I would absolutely choose the 5063 again.

Originally posted by EricScott
Alan,

Sounds like you've made up your mind. If you are happy with your Sony than that's great - don't really see why you would ask and then answer your own question about DLP reliability.

As for my comment about Sony warranty service, I don't have specific examples but I thought I remember reading about Sony refusing to do anything for people who got their brand new sets home and had a missing pixel. I have never had to get service on a TV before either, but then again my previous TVs weren't nearly as sophisticated as this one. There was a lot less that could go wrong.

No HDTV on the market these days is perfect. However, I love my Samsung and if I had to pick another HDTV today, knowing everything I've learned since I got my set, I would absolutely choose the 5063 again.

Eric...I am not trying to put anyone down...the Samsungs's are nice TV's...and in fact I am still considering trying the 46 inch model. And I do agreee that no HDTV is perfect. I do feel the Sony's are better at showing fine detail, and the Sammy's do black, and shadow scenes better. The Sammy's big advantage is that they put the speakers on the bottom, and they fit in places that most other brands won't. I can fit a 46, or 50 inch Sammy in the same space as the Sony 42 inch. I am just trying to get more input on people's experiences..GOOD AND BAD..with the Samsungs. I am not in the mood to spend $3500.00 for an ongoing headache. So far the Sony has been good, but that is only for about 2.5 weeks. I am kind of humored that people are bragging that their 3 month old expensive TV has had no problems...lol. It's kinda sad that we all have to hold our breaths every time we turn these things on. On my old Sony 36 inch Flat Tube TV, I never even have a doubt as to whether it will work. As for bad pixels, BOTH the Sony and Samsung manuals clearly state that a few bad pixels are allowable, and the cost to make a 100% perfect display would be prohibative. I certainly agree with that policy, since a few bad mirrors or pixels would not be noticeable at a normal viewing distance. Keep the comments coming folks. I appreciate all your input.

I've had my HLN4365W since about March, and the only problem I've had was a noisy color wheel which was promptly replaced. Customer service was great, and I'm very satisfied.

Although I don't mind the rainbows I see occasionally, I do see the +'s and -'s of the technology now (through using it, and staying informed here on the forums). I don't regret my decision, but if I were to do it again, I may have taken more time to research ("if I knew then what I know now") and consider other technologies as well. The TV is great, though, and I love it, as does my wife. The only thing I'm not really happy with is the internal reflections and how it detracts from the darkness of the blacks. I wish I could coat or carpet the inside, but I don't feel like getting that deep into this - service menu tweaks and calibration is enough for me.

Originally posted by AlanBuck
As for bad pixels, BOTH the Sony and Samsung manuals clearly state that a few bad pixels are allowable,


From your reading here in AVS you know that Samsung has almost always replaced light engines for stuck mirrors. Sony almost never does the same thing.

I wouldn't own either one without a good extended warranty. That's the price of leading edge technology. :)

Originally posted by AlanBuck
Regarding the latest comments about Samsung reliablity, I find it hard to believe all these problems are rare, given the MANY postings on various sites about troubles with these TV's. It would be nice to know what percentage are actually having issues, but there is no way to know if it's 10% or 80%. Even 10% is way too high for a new and expensive product. I have owned about 10 televisions in the past , and NEVER once had a bad one within the first 3 years of ownership. In fact, all but one ran for at least 8 years! Good luck finding a Sammy DLP that can pull that off! There are obviously serious quality/reliablity problems with these sets. When I asked if anyone can say they got even 6 months of troublefree service on a DLP, that would include the HLN models which have certainly been out that long. As for warranties, the Sony and the Samsung have identical warranties. I cannot vouch for which one would have superior customer service. From the postings it does seem that Samsung is TRYING to make people happy with their high priced, and unreliable televisions. I do think the DLP has a lot of potential, but the execution thus far is pretty scary. And please note that just because Samsung is selling a lot of DLP's is not a guarantee that they are making money on them, after all these warranty, and return issues. The airlines planes are full, and most of them are losing money. Volume doesn't guarantee profits. What are all these people going to do when their 4 year extended warranties run out, and they are faced with $1200.00 repair bills? I guess by then we can hope a new and better large screen TV may not cost much over $1500.00.

After lurking around here reading many negative posts regarding the Samsung DLP quality control problems, I begun losing my confidence in Samsung. Last week, I went to the local Tweeter to ask a sales person (whom I've talked to on many occasions) how many service calls they've had with the DLP TVs. He did a search for Samsung service calls on his store PC right before my own eyes. Guess what? They only have 3 service calls out of more than 100 HLNs + HLPs they've sold within the last two years. There is no detailed break down from his search to what kind of problems or how many calls are for the HLNs or for the HLPs.

Originally posted by htwaits


Amen to your extended warrranty advice. I usually feel they are a total rip-off, but on ANY of these new type TV's I would strongly advise buying one. Just make sure it covers the pricey light bulb, since that seems to be the most common problem on them. Thanks again for this forum, and the opportunity to learn more about this new and exciting technolgy.

Originally posted by wdang
After lurking around here reading many negative posts regarding the Samsung DLP quality control problems, I begun losing my confidence in Samsung. Last week, I went to the local Tweeter to ask a sales person (whom I've talked to on many occasions) how many service calls they've had with the DLP TVs. He did a search for Samsung service calls on his store PC right before my own eyes. Guess what? They only have 3 service calls out of more than 100 HLNs + HLPs they've sold within the last two years. There is no detailed break down from his search to what kind of problems or how many calls are for the HLNs or for the HLPs.


Then again, service calls are probably going through Samsung for the first year, with Samsung's own warranty. I got an extended SP, but I went through Samsung to have my noisy color wheel replaced.

Originally posted by wdang
After lurking around here reading many negative posts regarding the Samsung DLP quality control problems, I begun losing my confidence in Samsung. Last week, I went to the local Tweeter to ask a sales person (whom I've talked to on many occasions) how many service calls they've had with the DLP TVs. He did a search for Samsung service calls on his store PC right before my own eyes. Guess what? They only have 3 service calls out of more than 100 HLNs + HLPs they've sold within the last two years. There is no detailed break down from his search to what kind of problems or how many calls are for the HLNs or for the HLPs.

That is a VERY low level of service calls. My only concern is how many people bypassed his store and called Samsung service directly?? Most of the posts on here say people contacted Samsung, not the retailer, for service since the TV's are still in the 1 year manufacturer warranty period. It would be great though if the trouble levels are indeed that low.

i think extended warranty is only effective after ur manufacturer expires?

Originally posted by zoro
i think extended warranty is only effective after ur manufacturer expires?

Not necessarily. The RepairMaster warranty extension is like that. However, if you buy your set from Circuit City, Sears, or Best Buy their service plans typically run concurrent with the 1st year manufacturer's warranty. At least I know Sears' does. I'm still trying to justify the cost ($682 for 4 years, $772 for 5 years) for the Sears service plan vs. RepairMaster's ($299? for 4 year extension, but no bulb coverage).

Had my HLP5085 since August. No problems to report. Very satisfied.

The reliability issue of the Samsungs vs the Sony can also be based on the technology. DLP technology is relatively new in the consumer market while LCD technology had been around since the the 70's. (Look at your digital watch/clock or your Palm.
Surely the newer technology will not necessarily be perfected prior to releasing the product out to the consumer market. Luckily, Samsung is willing to address the issues with these units and their owners.

Hey...I'm old enough to remember regular visits from the TV repairman. He had a whole truck full of "tubes" that burned out on a regular basis! TV's were not very reliable then, but nobody cared because TV was "amazing". My new DLP is "amazing"!

I've had my HLP6163 since August. No problems at all and I'm very happy with it. A friend at work bought the same set and he's had no problems either.

People who don't read forums like this probably have problems much less. ;)


I may have never even seen rainbows had I not learned about them here.

Originally posted by cyberbri
People who don't read forums like this probably have problems much less. ;)


I may have never even seen rainbows had I not learned about them here.

I went to Circuit City again on Saturday to consider trying a Samsung DLP at home. As I walked past the 46 inch model I heard a strange whining sound....sure enough it was coming from that TV! So I guess we have yet another Sammy with a noisy color wheel...UGH! And the 50 inch model on display had the 'smudged screen' problem. These cannot be isolated issues given all the postings on here, and then you see the same things at the stores. I think I will stick with the Sony GWIII for now, and hope that in a few years someone makes a slim size cabinet TV with good reliablity. I am not overly confident in the Sony either, but at least it was about $800.00 less cost, and can't suffer from a whining color wheel. I think we all need extended warranties, and some really good luck...lol.

which hlp had smudges? does some one has pics of those?

Originally posted by zoro
which hlp had smudges? does some one has pics of those?

Many people on here have had the smudge problem. The 50 inch HLP I tried at home had them too. They tend to be near the left and right edges of the screen and they come and go. They are visible in light and white scenes. Samsung will supposedly replace the screens if they bother you.

are those 5063s or 5085s?

Originally posted by zoro
are those 5063s or 5085s?

63's so far as I have heard or seen.

Originally posted by chris523
Just got a call from the tech. He said the LE didn't arrive yet. He said that Samsung usually sends them overnight but he didn't receive any yet.:(

Unfortunately, the next day I'll be available for him to install it is next Wednesday. So I'll either just leave the set on like you did Joe, or try unplugging it again if it fails to start.

Kind of a bummer but I guess I don't have any choice except to be patient.
Still no word on the LE. I've called these guys twice and they keep telling me that they don't have any info on the LE and the tech will call me back when he gets back from the field because he is the one that placed the order for it. Of course he never does. :mad:

If I don't hear anything by the end of the day, I guess I'll call Samsung again to see if they can do anything - like refer me to another service center...:confused:

Question for others who had their LE's replaced, how long did it take for the tech to get the LE from Samsung and show up at your door?

Thanks,
-Chris

Originally posted by chris523


Question for others who had their LE's replaced, how long did it take for the tech to get the LE from Samsung and show up at your door?

Thanks,
-Chris

Called Samsung on a Sunday evening, got a referrel # and called the 2nd Samsung # on Monday morning. Tech called me directly Monday afternoon and by Thurs. (the appt. I wanted) they were at my door with the new LE (had an overnight sticker on it but not sure if it was just lying around or not). Entire tech visit took 30 mins.

So you are definitely not getting optimal service.

Originally posted by chris523
Still no word on the LE. I've called these guys twice and they keep telling me that they don't have any info on the LE and the tech will call me back when he gets back from the field because he is the one that placed the order for it. Of course he never does. :mad:

If I don't hear anything by the end of the day, I guess I'll call Samsung again to see if they can do anything - like refer me to another service center...:confused:

Question for others who had their LE's replaced, how long did it take for the tech to get the LE from Samsung and show up at your door?

Thanks,
-Chris

it took mine about a week to get it in. also took around 30 minutes

The Samsung tech came out to investigate my video drop out problem. He claims it is the light engine and will be back. For some reason he did not have a light engine assembly in his truck. It took a week for this appointment to happen so I wonder how long it will take to get the light engine replacement appointment? There must be a shortage of light engines, maybe I'll ask for a HD2+ rather than a HD3 replacement.

I see a lot of light engines being replaced...What problems did you have for them to replace your LE...Just curious!

Originally posted by jwv651
I see a lot of light engines being replaced...What problems did you have for them to replace your LE...Just curious!
A very large percentage of those light engines have been changed when other more specific fixes were available. I don't know it that's Samsung's policy or just their contract service people doing what is easiest for them.

My problem was picture/video drop out through the component inputs.

It is now over two months (8/10) since my initial failure was reported. A Light engine was finally brought in on 9/15 (even though the tech wanted the DMD board and not the LE, but that was not given him). The LE was apparently for a 50, not a 46. Appears they do not have any 46" LEs. Although the initial problem is gone, the picture is wrong with this LE--it's a trapezoid in SD, 1/2" in on each side at the top, it's rotated, and it's too large (as evidenced by where news-crawlers are and where they are supposed to be). When this was reported on the no-show service call of 9/22, the tech then agreed that the LE was wrong and the problems could not be adjusted out. Samsung said there were no correct LEs and said it would get replaced.
To date--no replacement shipped, and Samsung is stonewalling me.
Any suggestions short of law suit to get things moving?
BTW--I would never dream of making TVA take it back and ship a new one, but I talked to them that weekend and they said they could arrange for Samsung to have one of their in-stock sets. Samsung refused to do this, and I still wait.

Implot... Hang in there, maybe they will run out of HD3 Le's and have to eventually give you an HD2+ one ;-) That would be a good deal. They did replace my set once within the last month but that replacement still required a new LE for the 3BL problem.

Hang in there and keep pestering them about a new LE. In the mean time you still have something to watch. Best of luck.

Originally posted by timclark
Implot... Hang in there, maybe they will run out of HD3 Le's and have to eventually give you an HD2+ one ;-)

I really doubt the HD3 and HD2+ are that easily interchangable, if at all, for the HLP. And even if they are interchangable, it probably requires more than just swapping LEs. It may also involve a digiboard, analog board, etc. Not to mention, if Samsung hasn't done regression testing for that configuration they aren't going to implement it in the field.

Getting a HD2+ LE for a HLP seems extremely unlikely.

I am not looking for an HD2+ LE. Nor for that matter the correct HD3, since it's not available and apparently the LE was not the cause of my initial problem, according to the tech. But it sure is now.
No--believe it or not--they can't somehow get me the new set that was promised!
Although they sure can send me the same e-mail every time I call.

Ok, my turn, I picked up a HLN 5065, and few prob here!! Lag period when TV starts and becomes bright?

When scene changes or something, some times momentarily black screen appears! on 4:3 material with side bars they are curved inward like hour glass?

Any solution? any tips with settings set up.

I am using DVI for HTLD Hughes Direct TV and component for dvd player?

Originally posted by zoro
Ok, my turn, I picked up a HLN 5065, and few prob here!! Lag period when TV starts and becomes bright?


It's normal for the HLM/HLN sets to take 30 seconds on startup before the bulb comes on. That's just the way it is.

The HLPs take about 7 seconds.

are other things normal too, e.g distorted geometry Dean? thnx

How bad is the bow/arc? Can you take a digital picture of it?

Slight overscan is normal, and I have a bit of a bow to the top left (where that corner is out a little further than the bottom left, can tell when using it for PC).

Originally posted by zoro
are other things normal too, e.g distorted geometry Dean? thnx
Unless it's extreme it's normal for all RPTV sets because of the short distance from the chip to the screen. The amount of bowing varies a little from set to set though.

It is not slight, it is significant, I owned a Pioneer Elite RPTV never had a prob? is there any fix?
Do LCD RPTVs have same prob?

Call Samsung and have them fix it.

I have a slight misalignment of the left edge of the screen, but I can only see that when working on my PC. But nothing as drastic as what you mention.

cyber that makes sense!I'll do so!thnx

Originally posted by chris523
Still no word on the LE. I've called these guys twice and they keep telling me that they don't have any info on the LE and the tech will call me back when he gets back from the field because he is the one that placed the order for it. Of course he never does. :mad:

If I don't hear anything by the end of the day, I guess I'll call Samsung again to see if they can do anything - like refer me to another service center...:confused:

Question for others who had their LE's replaced, how long did it take for the tech to get the LE from Samsung and show up at your door?

Thanks,
-Chris

I called these guys again this morning and they said that they had called Samsung and that Samsung said that the order for the LE was "in process. " They couldn't tell me anything else.

As soon as I got off the phone with them, I called Samsung, sat on hold for about 35 minutes and finally spoke with someone who was very helpful. He offered to conference me and the service center with him and get it resolved.

Well what do ya' know. All of a sudden the service center had a LE for me and the tech said he would come out to my house today. I love it when those LE's magically appear!

Anyway, the tech just called and said he's on the way. Hopefully, I'll have a working set the next time I post. Did I just jinx myself? :rolleyes:

-Chris

I wonder if they upgraded these new light engines since the original build date of June 04 for the HLP6163.

Chris...Hope everything works out for you, please let us know how it goes!

Originally posted by jwv651
I wonder if they upgraded these new light engines since the original build date of June 04 for the HLP6163.

Chris...Hope everything works out for you, please let us know how it goes!

Thanks Joe.

Well the tech just left and it appears that the set is back up and running. I've power cycled a few times and each time it comes back to life (I still take a deep breath each time I do it...) I know only time will tell, but so far so good.

One other thing, I had this smudge about the size of a softball near the upper left corner that wouldn't go away. I've had other vertical streaky smudges that go away after the set warmed up, but this one was different. It has been there ever since I first got the set. The tech told me on the phone that the new LE would correct this problem as well. To my surprise, it was completely gone when we powered up the set. :D

So for now, I'm a very happy camper. Let's hope it's a smooth ride from here.

I'm attaching a pic I snapped of the old light engine. It took the guys (2 of them) about 25 minutes to replace it.

Originally posted by EricScott
Chris 523,

If you wouldn't mind checking what firmware version you currently have and then rechecking after you get the new LE, it would be pretty helpful to me and others reading this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=453079

You just go into the SM (mute / 1-8-2 / power, while the TV is off) and select the first menu item - it's listed at the bottom - T_ATLNUS_xxxx where xxxx is your version number. Going into the SM resets your settings so you may want to do this just b/f the tech comes or write down your UM settings.

I have 1013 on my "new" LE but it appears there are much newer versions. Apparently the firmware is tied to the circuit boards and not the LE but would like to try to verify.

Thanks,
Eric

Hi Eric,

I checked my firmware both before and after the new LE was installed and it remained the same - 1024. Hope this helps.

-Chris

Originally posted by jwv651
My HLP61" June 2004 build has version T_ATLNUS_1024 also...Please ask the Tech guy if they upgraded the light engine on the 61" from the June build date.

Hi Joe,

I asked the guys if this was an upgraded LE. They said it was "redesigned" but they didn't know the specifics or the date of the redesign.

-Chris

Originally posted by chris523
Hi Eric,

I checked my firmware both before and after the new LE was installed and it remained the same - 1024. Hope this helps.

-Chris

Thanks Chris - guess this proves that the firmware has nothing to do with the LE but rather with the boards, as others have suggested.

Glad everything is working.

Originally posted by EricScott
Thanks Chris - guess this proves that the firmware has nothing to do with the LE but rather with the boards, as others have suggested.

It's been referred to as the "digital" board by people who have had their firmware upgraded.

When the techs replaced my digital board (which is actually a shielded metal box, about the size of a hardcover book) last week and then tried to fix the new brightness/supersaturation problem, I noticed the firmware version was 1029. I don't know what it had been before the new digital board, as I had never entered the service menu.

The techs are supposedly talking to Samsung this week to figure out what to do next. But changing out the digital board definitely fixed the component signal dropout problem.

When watching SD broadcasts, I see a thin horizontal line at the very bottom of the image. It appears to be the bottom line of the image, repeated and shifted about 12 inches to the right. So when Kerry's hands are gesturing away in the main image, I can see a thin (like 1/8 of an inch) version again about 12 inches to the right. It's very apparent in SD pictures because the image doesn't fill the whole width of the screen. I haven't noticed it in full width HD broadcasts.

I'm not sure what to call this so I don't know how to search for it in the forum.

Any ideas?

Hi everybody. I recently had an issue with my HLN 5065 that was fixed but I have another issue that I was hoping somebody could shed some light on.

When first turning on the television the picture would come on and I would have no audio. The only thing that you would be able to hear was a loud whine. A technician came out and replaced the audio / video mainboard and I have not experienced that issue since.

My other problem is with a high pitched sound that I believe is coming from the color wheel. It gets to the point where you have the same reaction to it as if somebody was scraping their nails on a chalkboard. Usually after turning the television off and then back on or leaving it turned on for 10+ minutes the sound will become quiet enough that it does not interfere with what you are watching. The technician that came out believes that this is normal. I bought the tv from Best Buy with an extended warranty a little over a year ago. Any ideas? Thanks.

If BB services your extended warranty start with the store manager and work your way up until you get it fixed. The tech may have had a hearing problem. ;)

I have a Samsung HLP5063. After the I adjust the equalizer function in the Sound menu, it keeps returning to the original positions every time the TV was turned off and on again. Do you guys know how to fix that?

Thanks

I was watching the baseball games last night using the PIP split screen feature on my 5063. I was not able to swap the pictures by using the up/down buttons on the remote. Had to go thru the menu to swap. Picture 1 was thru Ant. 1. I tried picture 2 thru both Ant. 2 and S-video.

Am I missing something or am I just not able to do a 1-button swap on the remote using the split screen feature?

I gave up on DLP purchase!I'll return my HLN 5065 and get GW4 or New Elite Plasma?
any suggestions

All the Samsungs I have seen in stores, plus the 50 inch HLP I had at home for a while show a noticeable bowing of the black bars at the sides of the pic on 4:3 mode...it is optical distortion, and seems normal for these sets. Stangely my Sony GWIII 42 inch that I finally settled on does not show this distortion at all. I really feel Samsung has a good idea that has yet to be executed well. Too many issues for me to deal with. I hope that in 4 or 5 years all these TV's will be more affordable and RELIABLE. I hold my breath each time I turn the Sony on too. Even though the bulb issues are supposedly solved...only time will tell. At least I don't have a color wheel to make noises....lol.

OK, I all of sudden am having a problem with my DLP HLN567W1 I got it last September and they upgraded the processor about two months ago. I have I have a Huhge 250 HD TIVO unit conected to the TV via the DVI connection. I also have a SONY D* tivo unit (non-HD) hookd up to S-Video.

The DVI picture all of a sudden says Non-Supported mode and no picture. It worked fine last night. I go to S-Video or DVD on Component 1 and they work fine. If I unplug the DVI cable and plug it back in , the picture comes on for a second then goes back to Non Supported Mode.

I am thinking that my DVI cable went bad but wanted to see if someone else any idea before I trudge to Radio Shack for a cable. Any ideas?

well the problem has been resolved. It appears that the Hughes DVR250 D* HD TIVO receiver reset its DVI port and notes the signal down to 480i. I was able o change it after changing the connection to Component and set up the output to 1080!. Everything is working fine now. I have to monitor why the HD receiver was reset.

I need some advice from other HLP 5063 owners. I bought mine new on Monday. The color wheel whined so loud it was unbearable. The technician that came out agreed that it was loud and suggested I return it for a new one since it was only two days old.

The replacement (also brand new in the box) appears to whine just as loud. If this is normal then I don't understand why anyone would keep this TV. So my question is how loud is your color wheel?

I know this is a subjective question but I need to decide what to do with it. I love everything else about the TV.

Originally posted by HiDefGator
The replacement (also brand new in the box) appears to whine just as loud. If this is normal then I don't understand why anyone would keep this TV.
My HLP5063 is silent. You seem to have run into a batch of bad color wheels.

You have at least three choices. Exchange again, request repair, or get a refund. If you like the set I would ask for another exchange. The techs thought it was too loud and gave you good advise. Any noise that is irritating or distracting is too much.

Well I'm bummed now... Getting the 3 blinking lights on my HLP6163, June 2004 build. Thought they would have corrected the LE problem by then. Wife told me that yesterday she had a hard time getting it to come on. Wish she would have told me that before now. I would have left the tv on until I could get the LE replaced.

I have tried unplugging the unit for several minutes and then plugging it back in but no luck. It cycles through a couple of times like it's trying to come up but then nothing but the evil flashing lights. I forget who said it above but it truely does look evil sitting there, flashing in the dark.

Anyway, I digress. I take it from reading the numerous posts that it's best to call Samsung direct rather than Sears? Is the number for Samsung (800) 726-7864? What type of information will I need as I would like to call from work where I can stay on hold for awhile? Just tried calling them but they said they were closed... Anyone know the hours for Samsung Tech Support?

Sure wish I could get it to turn on one more time. I bought the thing for Sunday football... Let alone the fact that the wife is going to be pissed.

Thanks for any help you all can give me...

Chris

Originally posted by GDWindowpane

I have tried unplugging the unit for several minutes and then plugging it back in but no luck. It cycles through a couple of times like it's trying to come up but then nothing but the evil flashing lights. I forget who said it above but it truely does look evil sitting there, flashing in the dark.

Thanks for any help you all can give me...

Chris

Try unplugging it overnight. If it works, as it sometimes does, it's only a temporary fix. I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights about a week after delivery in July. It was a June build. Samsung got tech support here within 3 or 4 days. It took only a few minutes to put in the new parts. It's been fine ever since. They are very familiar with this problem and know how to take care of it. I would call Samsung and also notify Sears that you are calling Samsung.

Originally posted by HiDefGator
I need some advice from other HLP 5063 owners. I bought mine new on Monday. The color wheel whined so loud it was unbearable. The technician that came out agreed that it was loud and suggested I return it for a new one since it was only two days old.

The replacement (also brand new in the box) appears to whine just as loud. If this is normal then I don't understand why anyone would keep this TV. So my question is how loud is your color wheel?

I know this is a subjective question but I need to decide what to do with it. I love everything else about the TV.

I've had my 5063 for two weeks, and I can hear the color wheel. Can't hear it when watching a movie, but it is noticeable if the TV is muted or if I'm standing right next to the TV. I can also hear it wind down after turning the TV off. I checked our local store, and the two HLP's they had on the floor have a similar level of noise.

Not sure if I'm going to try to fix it yet, since I hardly notice it. If it gets worse I will definitely have it checked out.

Guys, my Kirk will be in the basement on Tuesday, heres my question... I have a nice surround system with a fairly large Polk Audio center channel. Does anyone have a shelf or something built above the Kirk for thier center channel? Or an other ideas for where to put this speaker, against the wall might be to deep and I would have to change my delays in the reciever. Any ideas?

Originally posted by FJ Merlin
Guys, my Kirk will be in the basement on Tuesday, heres my question... I have a nice surround system with a fairly large Polk Audio center channel. Does anyone have a shelf or something built above the Kirk for thier center channel? Or an other ideas for where to put this speaker, against the wall might be to deep and I would have to change my delays in the reciever. Any ideas?

I built a shelf above my HLP6163 to accomodate a fairly large and heavy Dynaudio Audience 122C center speaker.

http://www.wette.us/images/ht/centershelf.jpg

The shelf and mounting hardware came from www.shelfshop.com

Nifty!! How is ur shelf anchoring to window/blinds lol?

can u tell us dimmensions of board and what particular mounts were used from this web site

Is this just mounted on the wall then the front resting on the back of the screen?

This is exactally what I had in mind though...thanks a bunch D.

The shelf is Black Mica 20" x 50" x 3/4" and was $60.
The 2 mounts on the window frame are 12" M Rails, $9 each. I used 3 2" wood screws on each to attach them.
The brackets are 24" Rakks brackets, trimmed to fit (shelfshop cut a pair of 24" brackets for the order), $14 each.

The shelf is not supported at the front by the TV. I could have adjusted so the front of the shelf sits on top of the TV , but did not want to put that much weight on the TV case. It also looks better with the shelf "hidden" behind the TV & the speaker/stand "floating" above it.

Since the shelf is so large, the brackets are so far apart (48"), and it supports a heavy speaker, it tends to bow downward in the middle (about 1/4") where the speaker sits. So I went to Home Depot and found 3 46" steel C rails used for wall mounting shelves, and attached them underneath the shlf to give it some extra stiffness. The bowing is now minimal.

If you don't have the problem of spanning a window like me, you can just mount the rails closer to each other on wall studs and use a narrower shelf (avoiding the bowing problem). In my previous home I did that and used a 20" x 32" x 1/2" glass shelf instead.

If you download the brochure PDF from the shelfshop website it has all the pricing. It's the hardware that is great. The shelf you could get locally. I was just to lazy to bother.

I guess I should add...the center speaker stand is from Dynaudio ($150), and can be used with most center speakers. It allows two angles of adjustment downward or upward (4 deg downward is shown), and it has spikes to help decouple the speaker from the shelf, so that the shelf doesn't start resonating when playing loud movies.

I have same stand for my CC ADP450, possibly equally heavy!!

I have a wall, luckily! I am planning to bu Sony XS955 , 60 inch! I would rather use TV stand for EQUIPMENT and put CC on top, in ur ISHTYLE!

So, I can possibly get away with different kinda mount, and shelf matching width of my CC? Pls advise?
thnx

I was able to get the tv back on before I left for work this morning. Informed the family that if anyone turned it off they would suffer grave consequences... Contacted Samsung and they started a file on me and gave me another Samsung 800 number to call to make arrangements for them to come by. We will see...

Originally posted by HiDefGator
The replacement (also brand new in the box) appears to whine just as loud. If this is normal then I don't understand why anyone would keep this TV. So my question is how loud is your color wheel?

No noise from my 5063 color wheel. Even if I stick my head behind the set, I can only hear the cooling fan. It's very quiet and I can't tell it's running from my couch. The TV is great, but you should definitely try another set.

I definently have a loud color wheel..i just joined this forum to see if it was common and let you know i am experiencing it too.
i called samsung and they gave me a ref# and phone # to schedule a tech to come over..
samsung customer service said i should not be able to hear the wheel..i hear it roar up as soon as i put tv on..hlp5063w

tv is too big for me to bother and exchange it at this point..but if they come and fix it and it persists i will not own a lemon..

this tv is awsome though..but i had a 32"old tv i am comparing it too:cool:

mac

P.S. great forum

Hey guys,

thought I would add my experience so far.

I got the HLP 6163 on the 19th of sept, and noticed the loud color wheel. Called samsung, and eventually a tech came out to replace the color wheel.

After he left, i was watching tv and noticed during the dark scenes, the coloring looked horrible. For example, during alias, whenever they were all sitting in the offices describing the missions, the skin tone looked disgusting. The color would start okay, then there would be a pronounced line then the next color. No gradient, it was like viewing a dvd on a 256 color display. This only happened during dark scenes, but it was obvious, many friends noticed it. This happened not only through dvd's, but also on HD channels through Dish network. I tried both component and DVI cables.

Then the tech came out again, and didnt see a problem, and blamed it on the signal. I made him sit there and watch until we could see it, but he still blamed it on the signal. After a little "persuasion" he ended up replacing everything inside the TV. The light engine, ballast, color wheel, digital board.. according to him, it was the works everything.

Since then, TV's been great, couldnt be happier.

thank you for writing that..now i have ammo when the tech comes here after he says its fixed i have to look for that...lol

cheers
mac

im adding this by edit...just got off phone with authorized servicer and he said there is no color wheel in my unit..is this guy kidding me?

Just a quick update... Went through Samsung tech support, received another 800 number with a transaction number. Called the second 800 number waited on hold for 30 minutes or so only to be told that since I bought it through Sears, they need to service it. According to Samsung, Sears buys all of the factory warranties from Samsung? Anyway, called Sears customer service. Tried to explain to them what was wrong and what I wanted to happen, i.e. a new complete light engine. Rep said okay a tech will be their Wednesday morning. So I'm thinking this is great, tech is going to show up, swap out the light engine and everything is great... But knowing Sears (my wife works for them) I ask the rep before we hang up if the tech will be bringing the light engine with them. No, he'll show up, diagnose the problem and then order what ever parts are needed. So I went round and round with the rep explaining this site, what the problems are, 3 flashing lights and high pitched whine but she does not budge. So I guess I'll wait for Sears to show on Wednesday and then wait again until the part gets ordered etc...

My concern is this, I finally got the TV to turned on. What if the tech turns it off on Wednesday and it comes back on with out any problems? Or worse yet, he turns it off, sees that there is a problem and can't get it to come back on? Oh well guess we'll have to wait and see...

Originally posted by GDWindowpane
My concern is this, I finally got the TV to turned on. What if the tech turns it off on Wednesday and it comes back on with out any problems? Or worse yet, he turns it off, sees that there is a problem and can't get it to come back on? Oh well guess we'll have to wait and see...

That sucks. Samsung technicians showed up at my door with a new LE three days after I initially contacted customer service. They replaced it and were out of there in 30 minutes. And when they showed up I was not able to replicate the 3BL problem. I told them that I knew how to temporarily fix it and that's why my set wasn't currently exhibiting the problem. If they are real sticklers at Sears you may be SOL. If I were you I would try to create the problem right before they arrive by continually powering it on and off rapidly.

Ok people , as a newbie to this site and after reading many links, I don't mind telling you that I'm a little freaked out about my soon to be delivered sammy hpl5080's reliability. Everything from light engines,color wheel whir and the dreaded 3 blinking lights of death have got me wondering if the samsung was a wise choose. I realize that the owners with little or no trouble would have little need to post here, but if anyone could try to give me a objective overall viewpoint as to weather they would choose the samsung again if they had a second chance.

Originally posted by bigstick509
Ok people , as a newbie to this site and after reading many links, I don't mind telling you that I'm a little freaked out about my soon to be delivered sammy hpl5080's reliability. Everything from light engines,color wheel whir and the dreaded 3 blinking lights of death have got me wondering if the samsung was a wise choose. I realize that the owners with little or no trouble would have little need to post here, but if anyone could try to give me a objective overall viewpoint as to weather they would choose the samsung again if they had a second chance.

Could not be happier with my current problem free HLP 6163. The first set I purchased had a bad set of DVI audio inputs, but that set was replaced by Tweeter. The new set is perfect. Even if there was a problem, I would have full faith in Samsung's customer service based on most of the posts here. There is always a chance you will have a problem, but that chance is probably no greater than having a problem with another TV from a different manufacturer. I voiced the same concerns you have to my father, who has a problem free HLN model, after seeing the number and variety of problem posts here. He said the same thing you already mentioned. This forum is a magnet for people who have problems, which obviously skews the postings toward the negative end of the spectrum. I would bet that for every negative posting seen here, there are hundreds to thousands of customers at home with problem free sets.

Short answer, I would absolutely buy Samsung again...no question. In my opinion, it's the best bang for the buck when considering screen brightness, picture size, and picture quality. It's hands down the best HDTV for the money, at least in my book. Just my 2 cents.

Bill

Just so I understand things correctly, could someone 'in the know' confirm the following:

I have a hlp 6163, and a Comcast Moto 6200 which is connected to it via DVI. But I understand that the SD (analog) channels will probably be better (though they aren't terrible through DVI) if I get them by taking the cable right out of the wall into the tv. So I need a splitter for the coax coming out of the wall, sending one branch into the Moto 6200 (just as now) and the other branch directly into the tv. Right? And then I have to switch the 'Source' on the hlp remote from DVI to 'CATV' when I want to get the signal directlly from the coax to tv. Is this correct?

Thanks much!

Yes, that's correct.

Hi Guys,
Have trouble getting into the service menu, I would just like to check out my factory gamma setting. Mute 1 8 2 power = nothing. You hit these buttons in stand by mode right ??
Here in Australia the model number is SP61L3H not sure if that is the same as a HLN or HLP for you guys in the States ?, I think it's the same as HLP as it has the HD3 chip and 7 segment colour wheel.
Any suggestion's welcome.

:confused:

Originally posted by gvzepp
Hi Guys,
Have trouble getting into the service menu, I would just like to check out my factory gamma setting. Mute 1 8 2 power = nothing. You hit these buttons in stand by mode right ??
Here in Australia the model number is SP61L3H not sure if that is the same as a HLN or HLP for you guys in the States ?, I think it's the same as HLP as it has the HD3 chip and 7 segment colour wheel.
Any suggestion's welcome.

:confused:

First, go to the user menu and turn off Melody.

Once you've done this:
If TV is on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power
If TV is in standby: Mute-1-8-2-Power

If you got into the service menu from power on state, you can exit back to the normal on state with: Power-Power.

But the Australian model could be different.

Dean

Well as luck would have it... I tried turning the set off last night and then back on... Came right up... No blinking lights and the high pitched whine has gone away... Kept trying to turn it off and back on to replicate the problem (Sears tech support is coming today) but couldn't. Maybe it needed a little kick in the ass (172 hour always on session) to fix it. Now I've put the extra hours on the bulb though. Going to try and talk the tech into ordering me a light engine anyway. We'll see...

And in response to the gent wondering if he made a good decision I would say absolutely. I floundered around for months trying to decide which set to get and I still think I made a good decision.

This site is a wealth of information and I appreciate all the help you guys (and I"m sure gals) give us...

cyberbri: Thanks much for your reply.

But what about the audio? Now I have the moto cable box connected directly to an AV receiver via a digital (optical) cable. If I split the coax from the wall as described above, do I then have to connect audio out of the tv to the AV receiver for the SD channels? What connection should this be (out of my hlp6163)? But wouldn't one then have to change the input on the AV receiver every time one changed from an SD channel to a non-SD channel; sounds like a pain! Or is it simpler than this?

I don't have it split at the wall, but instead use just the cable box to the TV over component cables (was using DVI).

For audio, I have the optical out to my receiver, for when I want to watch shows in surround sound. But the majority of my TV-watching is done using the built-in speakers. So I have the L/R cables out to the TV as well, on the same component input (with DVI, I was using the DVI/VGA audio-in).

So if my wife wants to watch TV, she hits the cable box remote "Power All," which turns on the cable box and TV. Audio goes through the TV, and she doesn't have to switch inputs at all, unless he wants to show our daughter a DVD (and she knows how to turn the receiver on to DVD input as well). We watch 'our' DVDs through an HTPC, which I recently switched from VGA to DVI (and moved cable box from DVI to component), and I turn all that on when we do watch.


If you want to use the receiver for SD channel audio, then yes, you'll have to have the receiver on the SD channel audio input (audio out from TV), and change the TV and receiver inputs when you watch channels in HD.

My suggestion would be to get a really, really good idea of what your SD channels look like through the cable box (after the 100-hour breaking in period of the TV). Then try splitting the cable and see how much of an improvement you get. If the improvement is worth splitting and having to switch TV and receiver inputs every time you go between SD and HD channels, then go for it. If it's more hassle than anything, then it's probably not worth it.

cyberbri: Thanks for taking the time for this detailed explanation--I do appreciate it!

But I think you final summation is what strikes home: SD through my present (simple) DVi connection is really not bad. It was while watching the Red Sox-Yankees game last night on our local Fox channel (which we can't get in HD through Comcast), I was just thinking about whether it might be any better with the arrangement discussed. But I think inertial will win out--and I'll just leave it as it is!

Originally posted by bigstick509
Ok people , as a newbie to this site and after reading many links, I don't mind telling you that I'm a little freaked out about my soon to be delivered sammy hpl5080's reliability. Everything from light engines,color wheel whir and the dreaded 3 blinking lights of death have got me wondering if the samsung was a wise choose. I realize that the owners with little or no trouble would have little need to post here, but if anyone could try to give me a objective overall viewpoint as to weather they would choose the samsung again if they had a second chance.

I would say you taking a chance buying Samsung. They are in the 3rd year of making these TV's and still having problems galore. Even the ones in the stores have whining color wheels, blown bulbs, and smudged screens etc. The pciture quality on the Kirk model is quite excellent though. The 63 series is not so great. There are too many complaints on too many sites for these to be rare problems. Remember that only a TINY TINY percentage of people with problems are going to post on this type of site. So I would say you have a significant chance of trouble. Some people no doubt have perfect luck with the TV's too. But I would say the overall reliablity is far worse than ANY brand of traditional CRT television. Buy an extended warranty, make sure it includes the lightbulb, and ENJOY the TV. The only reason you may not like it is the rainbow effect, so make sure you have good return privleges too.

I will say one thing...Samsung will and does take care of their customers...maybe the other manufacturer's should take note of this...especially Sony...Samsung service is second to know one.

Originally posted by AlanBuck
I would say you taking a chance buying Samsung. They are in the 3rd year of making these TV's and still having problems galore. Even the ones in the stores have whining color wheels, blown bulbs, and smudged screens etc. The pciture quality on the Kirk model is quite excellent though. The 63 series is not so great. There are too many complaints on too many sites for these to be rare problems. Remember that only a TINY TINY percentage of people with problems are going to post on this type of site. So I would say you have a significant chance of trouble. Some people no doubt have perfect luck with the TV's too. But I would say the overall reliablity is far worse than ANY brand of traditional CRT television. Buy an extended warranty, make sure it includes the lightbulb, and ENJOY the TV. The only reason you may not like it is the rainbow effect, so make sure you have good return privleges too.


I also have a similar feeling.

But on the other hand, it's probably safe to wager that the majority of DLP sets on the market (in the last 2-3 years) are from Samsung. And in looking at only Samsung problems from a tiny percentage of people who own the sets and are on the boards here (and not at other brands, other technologies, etc.), maybe the impression becomes distorted.

The only problem I've had is with a noisy color wheel, and that was after about 5-6 months (maybe 1500 hours of use).

That being said, if a friend asked me to recommend a new TV, I'm not sure I'd recommend Samsung because of this (despite the great customer service). I'd do some more research into the other DLP brands, as well as leaving the $2K ED plasmas and CRT-RPTV sets as good choices as well.

Originally posted by cyberbri
I also have a similar feeling.

But on the other hand, it's probably safe to wager that the majority of DLP sets on the market (in the last 2-3 years) are from Samsung. And in looking at only Samsung problems from a tiny percentage of people who own the sets and are on the boards here (and not at other brands, other technologies, etc.), maybe the impression becomes distorted.

The only problem I've had is with a noisy color wheel, and that was after about 5-6 months (maybe 1500 hours of use).

That being said, if a friend asked me to recommend a new TV, I'm not sure I'd recommend Samsung because of this (despite the great customer service). I'd do some more research into the other DLP brands, as well as leaving the $2K ED plasmas and CRT-RPTV sets as good choices as well.

We really need a Samsung employee to post the actual percentage of units needing repairs the first year. Wouldn't that be interesting??? I guess Consumer Reports reader survey of TV reliability will eventually tell the tale. But if they don't break down DLP from other types it still won't tell the whole story. I settled on the Sony Grand Wega III because of a sharper picture, but I have little faith in its reliability either, especially the bulb. I imagine in 3 or 4 more years all these new TV's will be more reliable, have better picture quality, and be half the price they are today.

Hello all
I'm a HLP 5063W owner for 2 weeks. No problem so far. I have one questions w.r.t. to captioning ( I have a small baby and I want to turn off the sound sometimes).
I have the Moto STB hooked with DVI cable. When that input is selecte the captioning option is greyed out ( not available) ; I can turn the caption on for ANT 1 input ( not interested on that :-) .
So what I'm doing wrong here ?
Go Sox !

You have to turn off the STB, press Menu and turn the CC on there. From this menu you can also change AR, resolution output (480p, 720p, 1080i), and non-HD channel output (480p or Override[leaves signal in 4:3 pillar-box, upscales to above resolution]).

Can anyone that had a loud colorwheel tell me what was replaced to rectify the problem..
like for example a whole new motor?


mac

They replaced my color wheel. It's a small colored glass wheel on a small motor. Other people have had techs who replaced the whole light engine just to fix the noisy wheel.

Just spray the color wheel bearings with a little WD-40. That should do the trick. :D

all i thought that would be needed is a simple color wheel replacement but the tech that came to my house today listened for a minute and said i need a new engine..he probably wants more money from samsung..if he changes it that wouldn't change any on my settings,would it?

mac

Well Sears came by today... I wasn't able to get off work so the wife was home. Had the tech call me when he got there. TV was still working perfectly. No high pitched wheel noise, no blinking lights. Tech asks me what the problem was. Told him about the blinking lights, noise and this website etc... He says, "oh yeah, we've heard about the 3 blinking lights". I'm thinking great, this guy knows about the problem and is going to order the light engine and everything is great. But instead he gets on the cell phone to talk to another "senior" tech. He tells him to unplug the set, "re-seat" the lamp and then plug it back in. Problem solved. I told him that I had tried that when I was having the problem before and that it was only after repeated attempts that I was able to get it back on.

Heard thinking...

Hmmm...

Well how do "they" fix the problem? I assume they would mean everyone on this site. I say they replace the light engine. More thinking... Hmmm... We can't do that until we actually see the problem. Oh well, guess I'll call them back when/if the problem ever arises again. At least the tv is working like a charm. Now Adelphia HDTV is another story. I'm off to that forum to find a solution...

I've seen some previous posts about getting poor quality on SD through DVI. Someone mentioned splitting cables for SD.

I'm looking at getting a Samsung DLP in a few months and I will have a HD box through Time Warner Cable that has a DVI. This is what I planned to do. Can someone tell me if this doesn't work.

I want to hook up the DVI input from the cable box to the TV and also hook up the HD component video. This way I can channel surf on the component setting and get HD and SD signals. When I know I'm getting HD, I can switch over to the DVI setting for better quality but not necessarily have to.

Any reason this wouldn't work? Doesn't component video hook up auto-detect HD or SD? On the flip side, is there any reason to believe that a cable box will only allow you to use one input at a time? So you basically have to choose.

Just want to know what will work and what cables to buy before the big day comes. I obviously want the best PQ but don't want it to be a hassle switching channels either. That will really piss the wife off!

Thanks everyone for all your help. I've learned so much in these forums.

Mike

I don't think you'll notice a difference between DVI and component (most people say they don't).

If you want to keep switching inputs on the TV, that's fine. You should be able to hook up multiple outputs from the cable box. I had DVI, S-video and coax out to the TV before. Now I use just component cables (and coax for PIP when using HTPC on DVI).

If you do split the cable at the wall, you'll be able to watch over component and PIP analog channels.

I'd say just use component or DVI and leave it. Properly calibrating your set will give you a much better PQ improvement than just doing different inputs (probably).

Anyone using upconverting DVD players with their DLP's. I think when I get my TV (46") I will get the Denon 1910 and hook it up with DVI. I hear the picture quality is amazing.

I had one question about these upconverting players with a Samsung DLP. Doesn't the TV itself do some sort of upconversion anyway and also uses the Foroudja (sp.) chip? I noticed the Denon has the same chip in the player. So do you let the player up convert or just use the DVI and let the TV upconvert? Or better yet do you let the player do its magic then let the TV do its magic?

Just seems confusing to me with all this conversion. I understand the benefit of using DVI so you can stay 100% digital but need some help with conversions.

Thanks once again,
Mike

Originally posted by macavitti
all i thought that would be needed is a simple color wheel replacement but the tech that came to my house today listened for a minute and said i need a new engine..he probably wants more money from samsung..if he changes it that wouldn't change any on my settings,would it?

mac

Only if you had made any changes to the users or service menu, since they will probably reset the menus.

I could be wrong, but if it's only the light engine, not the digital board (where the hardware is), I think the settings should be fine. My LE wasn't' replaced, but it was still taken out and the color wheel was replaced, and then it was all put back in. But afterwards none of the settings were reset.

There is no way to "reset" the menus without putting in new hardware with factory settings on it. You can reset the lamp time when you replace the lightbulb, but that's about it.

That's why you have to be careful about changing settings - there is no "reset".

cyberbri,
Thx for answering my post. I turned off the STB and it did not work.
Any other ideeas why my CC is greyed out ?

Originally posted by tzukulika
cyberbri,
Thx for answering my post. I turned off the STB and it did not work.
Any other ideeas why my CC is greyed out ?

If you are using DVI, the CC signal is probably not getting to the TV. If you have the grey Motorola 6200 STB (which is what I have), you have to press "Menu" when the power is off. If you have a different STB, you'll have to look it up (or call your cable provider's customer service) and figure out how to get the CC on. It could be in a menu accessible while the box is on, even.

Originally posted by mchuckp
Anyone using upconverting DVD players with their DLP's. I think when I get my TV (46") I will get the Denon 1910 and hook it up with DVI. I hear the picture quality is amazing.

I had one question about these upconverting players with a Samsung DLP. Doesn't the TV itself do some sort of upconversion anyway and also uses the Foroudja (sp.) chip? I noticed the Denon has the same chip in the player. So do you let the player up convert or just use the DVI and let the TV upconvert? Or better yet do you let the player do its magic then let the TV do its magic?

Just seems confusing to me with all this conversion. I understand the benefit of using DVI so you can stay 100% digital but need some help with conversions.

Thanks once again,
Mike

Yeah, quick poll, what type of players do people use with their Samsung DLPs. Looking to buy an upconverting DVD player and I have read about the pro's and con's of each, but wondered what most people here settled on?

Samsung 841
Samsung 931
Denon 1910
Zenith 318
Other

Also, quick question. Anyway to turn of ANT 1 so when I flip through the inputs I don't have to hit "Air" and the blue screen? I use component out of my cable box, not coax, and it would be a nice feature. Just making sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks.

Love the TV.

on frequency of defects:

My 5063 has been fine for the 2 mos I've owned it, but the fact that Sears is now charging $900 for a 5yr warranty may give you some idea of the repair frequency.

on using different cable box outputs for SD:

In my experience, the different cable box outputs look very similar with a SD signal. However, running a straight cable feed from the wall to the TV provides a very noticeable improvement vs. my DVR-equipped Moto 6208 box. My cable co (Insight) says they know the box's SD picture is crap, that's why they are getting dual tuner boxes soon.

Originally posted by bojangling
Yeah, quick poll, what type of players do people use with their Samsung DLPs. Looking to buy an upconverting DVD player and I have read about the pro's and con's of each, but wondered what most people here settled on?

Samsung 841
Samsung 931
Denon 1910
Zenith 318
Other

Also, quick question. Anyway to turn of ANT 1 so when I flip through the inputs I don't have to hit "Air" and the blue screen? I use component out of my cable box, not coax, and it would be a nice feature. Just making sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks.

Love the TV.

I'm currently using a Denon 1200 via component. Honestly the picture is so good that I really don't feel the need to upgrade at this point. But then again I've only had the TV for three weeks and I've only watched about five movies so far. I have it set to progressive and have not had any issues with it.

I would probably go with the 1910 if I were to upgrade, but that's mostly because I've had good experiences with Denon products in the past.

Originally posted by mchuckp
I've seen some previous posts about getting poor quality on SD through DVI. Someone mentioned splitting cables for SD.

I'm looking at getting a Samsung DLP in a few months and I will have a HD box through Time Warner Cable that has a DVI. This is what I planned to do. Can someone tell me if this doesn't work.

I want to hook up the DVI input from the cable box to the TV and also hook up the HD component video. This way I can channel surf on the component setting and get HD and SD signals. When I know I'm getting HD, I can switch over to the DVI setting for better quality but not necessarily have to.

Any reason this wouldn't work? Doesn't component video hook up auto-detect HD or SD? On the flip side, is there any reason to believe that a cable box will only allow you to use one input at a time? So you basically have to choose.

Just want to know what will work and what cables to buy before the big day comes. I obviously want the best PQ but don't want it to be a hassle switching channels either. That will really piss the wife off!

Thanks everyone for all your help. I've learned so much in these forums.

Mike

My experience with my HLP6163, Moto 6200 STB.

Cable company (Cox) installed the 6200 with component cables, told me the DVI wouldn't be any better. Advised that I watch SD from either s-video or Ant using the Ant Out on the box.

Tried that set-up for one evening. SD via the component connection was terrible. SD over s-video acceptable, barely. Connected DVI to DVI the next day, I'll never look back! SD over DVI is quite good, better then my old 55" Toshiba RP. But of course nothing like HD on this set.

I use DVI/HDMI for my HTPC connection, PQ between this and VGA is quite apparent as well.

Enjoy you new TV, I love mine.

mchuckp, I have the HLP5063 with a DVD1910 through a Tributaries dvi cable. I just can't think ANYTHING will get me a better picture.

However I don't see any difference between 720P and 1080i

When you use DVI the signal is processed by the Faraudja deinterlacer of your player bypassing the deinterlacer of your tv. But if you watch tv through svideo or regular video cables that's when the deinterlacer of your tv works.

Both Faraudja chips are excellent, but the one on your dvd player is better, it even gives the option to watch progressive instead of only i , like the one on your tv does.

Originally posted by mariowar
mchuckp, I have the HLP5063 with a DVD1910 through a Tributaries dvi cable. I just can't think ANYTHING will get me a better picture.

However I don't see any difference between 720P and 1080i

When you use DVI the signal is processed by the Faraudja deinterlacer of your player bypassing the deinterlacer of your tv. But if you watch tv through svideo or regular video cables that's when the deinterlacer of your tv works.

Both Faraudja chips are excellent, but the one on your dvd player is better, it even gives the option to watch progressive instead of only i , like the one on your tv does.

Do you see any of the macroblocking with the Denon 1910 talked about on this forum?

No macroblocking at all. The pisture is SO superb that I have friends every weekend coming over to test my system!!!!
I'm very picky about the picture and I don't think it can get any better than this.

Again, my friends and I could not detect any differences between 1080i and 720p.

pd. My dvi cable is just 1 meter long. Don't you think that macroblocking might be induced by long cables?

Originally posted by mariowar
mchuckp, I have the HLP5063 with a DVD1910 through a Tributaries dvi cable. I just can't think ANYTHING will get me a better picture.

However I don't see any difference between 720P and 1080i.

[snip]
Since the 5063's native resolution is 720P, might this be the reason?

Or is it possible that the "extra" video processing on the 1910 will (or theoretically could) produce a better picture?

So many options... And now I have my Dolby DTS to set up too...

Eric (still learning)

Originally posted by mariowar
No macroblocking at all. The pisture is SO superb that I have friends every weekend coming over to test my system!!!!
I'm very picky about the picture and I don't think it can get any better than this.

Again, my friends and I could not detect any differences between 1080i and 720p.

pd. My dvi cable is just 1 meter long. Don't you think that macroblocking might be induced by long cables?

It seems that is has more to do with your display type than cable length. The Pansonic's are particularly bad, atleast from others reviews. Was trying to see if anyone had a problem with this player and the Samsung DLP line. Apparently, you don't, which is good news for both of us.

I am getting unhappy with the Samsung technical service I am receiving. I had a problem with video dropouts on component input from XBox, and techs installed a new digital board a couple weeks ago. That fixed the original problem but damaged the color balance on all three composite inputs. The techs tried to install a new digital board (that was their 4th visit, each one eats a few hours out of my work schedule) and it didn't fix the problem. They decided that they had to do more diagnostics back at their shop, and took the tv with them a few days ago.

So now I have no tv. It seems like most everyone else who gets support from samsung gets a decent tech who gets a new light engine or digital board or something and the problem is resolved fairly quickly. Should I be raising a ruckus at samsung, to get more aggressive support from a better trained technician?

wow..how long have you had the tv..they took the tv so i would call samsung and try to get a new one and tell the shop to keep it..

hope all works out
mac

Samsung HLP6163 Colors?

I bought this tv on the 19th of sept, and noticed a loud color wheel, they sent out a tech and he replaced it.

Shortly after, I was watching alias on a samsung 931 dvd player, through Component to avoid the DVI blacks issue. I noticed, whenever there was a darker scene, the skin tones of people, and the backgrounds looked horrible. The skin tones showed distinct lines, instead of a smooth gradient to depict different colors, the colors looked "flat". I dont know how better to explain this =\. Is there a term for it?

Anyways, i noticed the same thing on my Dishnetwork, even during High Def Channels, for example, during the scene where The School gets raided in X2.

So, i had a tech come out, and he refused to replace anything, claiming he didnt see a problem.

After about an hour of "persuasion", he replaced everything inside. The Light engine, ballast, lens, color wheel, digital board... the works.

I notice my firm ware is still 1024, wouldnt all new digital boards carry the new firmware? I wasnt watching him while he replaced the components, becuase i had a video conference to take care of.


Anyways, today i load up a friends Xbox on component video, to play Lord of the Rings III, the game. I noticed, that during the beginning of the movie, the New Line Logo, the blue starburst that surrounds it displayed the same problems! The sunburst was NOT a clear gradient, I could see distinct color bands!

Just to verify, i put in the LOTR III dvd, but the XBOX wouldnt play it because i dont have some DVD playing module. So i put the DVD into my playstation (i have returned the samsung, and am in the process of building a HTPC) and noticed the same problem on the New Line Logo.

Now, i dont believe my PS2 is a progressive scan model, but I do have it hooked up through component video.

Any ideas what could be going on?

RickDias--your story is inexcusable by Samsung. ANd yes, some of us have major problems with Samsung. It's not just the repair shop. If they can't fix it, Samsung should take it back and replace it at this point. ANd I am having fits trying to get the same thing done with mine. Yes, the repair shop is the one who keeps amking it worse--but only after following Samsung instructions and using the worng parts. Samsunbg still will not admit that my picture on my 46 is wrong because they have now twice sent a 50" LE and claimed it's the only LE they have as apart andf that it works for all. It doesn't. After the second LE Thursday afternoon we checked it yesterday and not only wasn't the original issue resolved re size, but after all the fiddling the picture is unwatchable. It pixelates and blotches on every input. This picture woulkd not have been acceptable 25 years ago. Of course by the time we realize this yesterday it's too late for contacts anywhere. Other than to have some CR claim that the repair place said everything is finme and also claim that none of my calls this week are on their records.

Has anyone had a problem when they turn on the TV the picture comes up all scrambled? It looks like a bunch of distorted horizontal lines.

I turn it off and back on after a few seconds and it is fine. Is this a precursor of things to come or is it something that just happens on occassion.

I've had no problems otherwise. It runs silent. Beautiful HD pic. I have an HD TIVO hooked up via HMDI. Still looking to upgrade the DVD though.

Just the one problem and it's happened I think twice in the 2 months I've had it.

Originally posted by ImpalaSS99
Samsung HLP6163 Colors?

I bought this tv on the 19th of sept, and noticed a loud color wheel, they sent out a tech and he replaced it.

Shortly after, I was watching alias on a samsung 931 dvd player, through Component to avoid the DVI blacks issue. I noticed, whenever there was a darker scene, the skin tones of people, and the backgrounds looked horrible. The skin tones showed distinct lines, instead of a smooth gradient to depict different colors, the colors looked "flat". I dont know how better to explain this =\. Is there a term for it?

Anyways, i noticed the same thing on my Dishnetwork, even during High Def Channels, for example, during the scene where The School gets raided in X2.

So, i had a tech come out, and he refused to replace anything, claiming he didnt see a problem.

After about an hour of "persuasion", he replaced everything inside. The Light engine, ballast, lens, color wheel, digital board... the works.

I notice my firm ware is still 1024, wouldnt all new digital boards carry the new firmware? I wasnt watching him while he replaced the components, becuase i had a video conference to take care of.


Anyways, today i load up a friends Xbox on component video, to play Lord of the Rings III, the game. I noticed, that during the beginning of the movie, the New Line Logo, the blue starburst that surrounds it displayed the same problems! The sunburst was NOT a clear gradient, I could see distinct color bands!

Just to verify, i put in the LOTR III dvd, but the XBOX wouldnt play it because i dont have some DVD playing module. So i put the DVD into my playstation (i have returned the samsung, and am in the process of building a HTPC) and noticed the same problem on the New Line Logo.

Now, i dont believe my PS2 is a progressive scan model, but I do have it hooked up through component video.

Any ideas what could be going on?

Although I've calibrated my set as much as I can, I have noticed this as well. I think some images/sources are just like that - low quality. If you notice it on Finding Nemo, that movie is notorious for banding (distinct color breaks) and compression artifacts.

If it's just the logos, I wouldn't worry about it. If it's everywhere, it could be the LE, but it could also mean that the set just needs to be adjusted (brightness/contrast, colors, etc.). If you can pause on a certain screen with the problem, try switching between different picture modes and adjusting contrast, brightness, and color up and down. You may need to get into the Service Menu to properly adjust it out (maybe just change gamma setting), and if you feel like it, you can get your set professionally calibrated by an authorized ISF technician. Getting it calibrated won't get rid of all of it, but anything it doesn't get rid of you can not worry about because it's the quality of the signal.

And the PS2 is known for being a horrible DVD player anyway.

My experience has been the same as cyberbri's. Many owners of earlier HLM/HLN sets found that using DVI input material improved "banding" and "clay faces" a lot. With our HLP5063 I see clear banding in Nemo's deep water backgrounds. I sometimes see it in sky scenes from TV as well. The one ISF calibrated HLN set that I have seen had almost no banding in Nemo.

Using TheaterTek through the DVI port I haven't seen any facial banding or clay faces in dimly lit scenes.

Does the Sammy DVD-HD841 work good with this TV? I like how you can choose 720p or 1080i, it seems that this feature would improve apon the up-scaling because the TV wouldn't haver to downconvert the upconverted signal...

I have no experience with these players yet. But upon my research, I've come to the conclusion that you should stay away from the major competitors for these types of players (Samsung, Toshiba, etc.). If you are looking for one check out the Denon 1910 ($249). I don't think I have read one bad thing about it and a great price to. But don't take my word, research for yourself.

Beckmen: I had the sammy dvd player, and returned it, becuase the rumors are true, about the crushed black levels through DVI. I agree with mchuckp, everything ive read about the Denon is good, except the fact that it seems to be cheaply built, meaning it isnt very heavy and feels light. For 199-250, you cant beat the picture though, from what ive read. I tried to find one, but no-one around me carried it.

If you can get your hands on the Denon, its probably the best bet.

Also, my local best buy, had 8 of the 841's returned on sale for 149, it seems like a lot of people werent happy with it. Maybe the new 941 coming out will look better :)

About my earlier issue, i just hooked up my HTPC and the picture blows my mind. This is before using FFDshow, but i am using the new Dscalar5 encoder.

Im wondering, could the banding be a problem through component inputs only? (I'm using dvi for the HTPC).

Thanks, I will check out that Denon.

I think the name is sort of offputting, though. Reminds me of a yogurt...

Thanks, I will check out that Denon.

I think the name is sort of offputting, though. Reminds me of a yogurt...

If you are unfamiliar with Denon, they make pretty high end equipment and is mostly sold in higher end stores. They did release this model that appears to technically kick butt but made with cheaper materials to keep the cost down. Most Denons are pretty sturdy pieces of equipment.

Huh, what's the chief differances between the 1910 and the 2910? Other than the huge price tag...

New question for you HLP owners. I'm 90% sure I will be getting a HLP 46" Samsung (either 63 or 74 series). Besides having great picture quality, I really like that they have 2 digital inputs (hdmi & dvi). The only other TVs that will fit in my space (43" wide) is the LG 44" or the supposed soon to be released RCA 44". From what I can tell neither of those have more than one digital input. Seems ridiculous to me to only have one. I know I will regret it in a year if I was stuck with one.

Anyway, my question: with the Samsung having both the dvi and hdmi are the inputs separate that you can use both of them simultaneously? I would assume yes, but you never know with some of these things. I just want to make sure you aren't given the option of one or the other. If that was the case, then I might as well look at the LG and RCA as well.

Thanks,
Mike

Mike:

Yep, you can use them both :)

Originally posted by beckmen
Huh, what's the chief differances between the 1910 and the 2910? Other than the huge price tag...

Try this forum and fined multiple threads on both.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=18

I'm trying to set up my HLP with a 1:1 pixel display, without losing the task bar, etc. to overscan.

I've read here that the trick is to use PowerStrip to create a resolution of 1248x702 and set the magnification to "Normal."

However, I'm using the DVI port with my PC, and I don't get a "Normal" option. Just Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3. Wide PC compresses the screen to fit no matter what the resolution, and Expand stretches it no matter what the res.

Is normal something that would appear if I moved to the VGA port? (Hate to do that; nice to think I could get 1:1 with the clarity of digital input.)

I hope someone here has figured this out and can point me to a fix. :)

Create your custom resolution but leave AR size to expand for 1:1.
Here's a tip: create a custom resolution of 1280x768. Let's assume you've already created one for 1280x720.
Save each as a custom profile. Now, assign each rez a Powerstrip hotkey.
Switching to 1280x768 will automatically envoke PC WIDE. SWitch back to 1280x720& you will automatically go back to EXPAND.
A Powerstrip hotkey combo for over/ underscan!
This way you don't have to mess with custom resolutions & DVI which can be tricky. 1280x720 & EXPAND is 1:1 & just enough overscan for DVD & HDTV, ....YMMV.

Originally posted by dennya
I'm trying to set up my HLP with a 1:1 pixel display, without losing the task bar, etc. to overscan.

I've read here that the trick is to use PowerStrip to create a resolution of 1248x702 and set the magnification to "Normal."

However, I'm using the DVI port with my PC, and I don't get a "Normal" option. Just Wide TV, Wide PC, Expand, and 4:3. Wide PC compresses the screen to fit no matter what the resolution, and Expand stretches it no matter what the res.

Is normal something that would appear if I moved to the VGA port? (Hate to do that; nice to think I could get 1:1 with the clarity of digital input.)

I hope someone here has figured this out and can point me to a fix. :)

believe it or not, use 4:3 mode.

Yeah, I want a resolution that doesn't overscan for gaming, though, so I can fit the entire display on the screen. My Nvidia drivers have a 1280x720 mode built in for the HLP's PnP info.

4:3 mode crams everything into 4:3, leaving big black bars on each side... I'm looking for widescreen, but with 1:1 and the top and bottom not cut off by overscan...

I use that 1248X702 mode on an hlp5685 and it produces a 16:9 image over dvi with no overscan. no idea why ...
jb

jb,

Which display mode do you have the HLP in when viewing that resolution?

Did you make any other tweaks with Powerstrip besides creating the new resolution?

4:3 mode. no other powerstrip tweaks - but I cut and patse timings I found here. If you tried your own timings maybe that's the problem. Pretty sure other folks have it working too bot not positive about the 63 series dlp.

if you get it, be sure and set sharpness to zero.

jb

The tech came out and replaced the digital board in my HLP 6163 for the component video drop out while playing DVDs. The picture has improved but now I have a problem with the picture being skewed to the right. I am getting only have of the the dolby digital blue square. I am assuming that the light engine is not seated properly. The tech did not seem to proficient in fixing Samsungs since he says they do only about two a month.

Overscan. Yuck. I think you guys are talking about getting rid of overscan when hooking a PC up to this TV, but how can I get rid of it when watching DVDs? Just the dangerous service menus...?

Originally posted by beckmen
Just the dangerous service menus...?
There is no way to do it in the service menu.

I noticed a tiny white dot moving across my screen left to right. From the bottom to the top.
First i thought it was poor reception through analog cable but i noticed this on my satellite feed as well.

Does anyone have this dot that reminds me of a pulse rate moniter.

Does anyone know how to get rid of it?
I have the hlp5063

mac

dennya,
I have a 5663 with my HTPC hooked up via DVI at 1216x684 defined by powerstrip and have the TV set to 4:3 mode. I have about 5% overscan on my TV as determined by DVE's overscan graphics, and found that 1248x702 was still getting cut off somewhat on the top and bottom. The TV was autodetected by the computer, and I used the default timings in powerstrip for that driver.
I think in order to get 4:3 mode to give you a 1:1 mapping with no overscan as some of us are, you need to use a resolution other than 1280x720. The TV senses 1280x720 coming in and thinks its knows what's best, and that is why you are getting 4:3 squished with black bars. By feeding it something other than 1280x720 you are effectively tricking it into displaying the feed without the TV doing any adjustment.
BTW, the "Normal" setting on the HLM/HLN is the same as "4:3" on the HLP, they just renamed it.


beckmen,
Probably the best way to get rid of overscan on DVDs is to get a HTPC with a DVD drive. I'm not sure if it's possible with a standard consumer DVD player.

@jdiff:
I have HLP6163, and I also experiencing overscan, and something about your post confuses me. The overscani am getting, is strange, i have75% of the start menu below the viewable, same on top. The left and right also experience overscan, this is during the mode: Wide TV on the TV.

Now, if i change the mode to Wide PC, I have a black border around the screen, heavy underscan. I have about 2 inches on the left 1 inch on each the top, buttom and right.

Now, here are my questions: What mode should i be viewing my TV on, you guys are talking about 4:3 mode, but wouldnt this ruin watching widescreen dvds? (I really think im missing something here, pardon my ignorance :-D )

If i toy around with powerstrip, should I mess with he timings? I have tried to find a guide on how to determine all he right settings for powerstrip, but everyting i find is either too general, or too specific for a certain model of tv.

Should i use any of the "presets" in the Powerstrip? This is off of a guide i found on htpcnews.com, but they are vague. I dot understand the difference between 720P HTDV variant, LCD, etc.

Does 1:1 mapping refer to 1 pixel output on the PC = 1 pixel on the TV?

thanks in advance!

impala,
1:1 pixel mapping does mean 1 pixel output on the PC = 1 pixel on the TV. Ideally this is what we all want. The reason we want this is because if the TV scales the computer input, what you see on the screen is much less clear than what you would see on a computer monitor, which displays 1:1.

The Samsung is designed to display a 1280x720 image, but there is overscan of 5% or so. Thus the effective image viewable image size is approx. 95% of 1280x720, or 1216x684. (Some people have less than 5% overscan and can see an image of 1248x702.)

When Samsung decided to equip this TV with a PC input, they knew the overscan would present a problem. Wide TV mode displays 1280x720 with overscan, that is why your start menu and top of the screen is cut off. To fix this, they implemented the Wide PC mode. This mode takes a 1280x720 input and scales it to 94% to eliminate overscan. This gives a small black border around the screen for most people, but since it eliminates overscan, that small black border is acceptable to us (just as it is on all computer monitors). The biggest problem with this new Wide PC mode is that the 1280x720 image is scaled to fit into a 1203x677 space (94% of 1280x720). Because the image is scaled, it looks worse than a non-scaled (1:1 pixel map) image, and text is difficult to read on the scaled image.

What we have done with the 4:3 mode is tricked the TV into displaying the image it is receiving from the HTPC without scaling. To do this it is necessary to feed the TV a resolution other than 1280x720. At 1216x684, my computer desktop takes up almost all of the TV screen space with no overscan and small black bars only on the sides. This provides a 1:1 pixel mapped image and text is very clear, just as you would expect on a computer monitor.

Of course when you watch DVDs from a dvd player, you want to be in Wide TV mode. This 4:3 mode trick only applies to a HTPC input, and only over DVI (I don't even think it works with the VGA input).

When I installed powerstrip, I did not mess with any timings. Powerstrip is a very complex program, but for my needs all I wanted to do was enable the computer to use a 1216x684 resolution. Thus most of the features in powerstrip I did not mess with. All I did was change the resolution setting to 1216*684 and then clicked the create custom monitor .inf file, and then loaded that .inf file as my monitor driver. After a reboot I could select 1216x684 as a resolution on the slider in the Monitor Control Panel, and never needed to use powerstrip again. If anyone wants, I can post more exact directions, my timings, and the .inf file here.

Hope this helps!

Well this morning the dreaded 3 blinking lights returned. Going to call Sears again. Not crazy about leaving them blinking during the World Series but might have to so that the technician can see for himself. Nah, I'm going to try and unplug it again and see if we can get it going again for the series.

Hmmm, can't adjust overscan? I guess I can live with it. I should go to Lacuna and have Overscan erased from my memory and then live in blissful ignorance. ;)

There are some DVD players that zoom "out". For instance, my friend has a NUON that will allow you to zoom out and elimate the problem. My current Toshiba SD-2800 has a "Shrink" mode that also does it, but it's only one setting so it "Window" boxes the image a bit, whereas the NUON is adjustable and you can get a "best fit". I'd use my player, but it's not even progressive scan. Just component.