Unplugged the set before I came to work. Just called the wife and asked her to plug it back in and turn it on. Came on without any problems. Asked her to shut it down and then back on a couple of times. No problems. So I'm kind of at a loss. How can I convince Sears that there is a problem? I don't want to have to keep re-entering the settings.

Thanks for any advice you may have...

@jdiff:

thanks man, that cleared up a bunch of stuff for me :). One question however, why do we have to set the TV back to Wide TV for DVD viewing? If the PC is displaying 1:1 mapping, wouldnt that apply to the dvd picture it sends out also?

When you change the TV back to wide for dvd viewing, are you using a different source than the PC for the DVD? If not, do you change the resolution on your computer, to account for the new tv setting? What happens if i put in a dvd while the TV is in 4:3 and watch it using the PC, wont it look fine due to the 1:1 mapping?

thanks!

impala,
Glad I could help. Most of what I said I learned from another thread about 1:1 pixel mapping. I am using a standard DVD player over component to watch DVDs. If you will be using a DVD drive in the HTPC then there is no need to change modes and it will look fine.

I was at Costco Saturday and I am confused. They have 50 inch HLN models for sale. I checked the build dates on the back of the TV and they were made in AUGUST 2004. How can that be?? I though the HLP series replaced the HLN series, and the HLP's have been made since April or so. Anyone know what is going on here? Thanks!

Originally posted by GDWindowpane
Unplugged the set before I came to work. Just called the wife and asked her to plug it back in and turn it on. Came on without any problems. Asked her to shut it down and then back on a couple of times. No problems. So I'm kind of at a loss. How can I convince Sears that there is a problem? I don't want to have to keep re-entering the settings.

Thanks for any advice you may have...

Do you have a video camera? You could try recording it happening and show the person the tape, just in case it works fine when he does come.

i am curious how much costco was selling the hln for

mac

Originally posted by macavitti
i am curious how much costco was selling the hln for

mac

$2800.00...not a bad deal....but why are they HLN's made in August 2004?

Maybe it was one of the last ones made before they started producing the HLPs?

i wouldnt buy it at that price..i got the HLP5063w for $3100 and i got my 5 year extended warranty for $200..
where i got the HLP, the HLN was offered at $2600..
a store in NJ..not online

this may start a price comparison chat
mac

Originally posted by jdiff
impala,
Glad I could help. Most of what I said I learned from another thread about 1:1 pixel mapping. I am using a standard DVD player over component to watch DVDs. If you will be using a DVD drive in the HTPC then there is no need to change modes and it will look fine.
Can you elaborate?

I have understood that you did a "custom" resolution for "4x3" mode for computer desk top work. I then assumed that you would change the resolution to 1280x720 if you were playing Anamorphic Widescreen movies from the PC. I also assumed that the Samsung would be set to Wide (TV). At least that's how I've been doing it. :)

I mostly watch movies from our PC with a little Internet browsing to the Internet Movie Database. With my Icons centered in the screen and the browser set to less than full screen the over-scan is not a problem.

I do all my "real" computer work (like this message :rolleyes:) booted in a second general purpose partition with a LCD computer monitor set to it's native resolution of 1280x1024.

Originally posted by beckmen
Maybe it was one of the last ones made before they started producing the HLPs?

HLP's started production in April.....these HLN's were made in AUGUST. As for price issues, Costco would be a good bet because of their super generous return policy. You could take it back in 2 years and they would refund your money. What other place will do that???

i trust a 5 year extended warranty over a 2 year return policy..
you can try calling samsung about the born on date..let us know

mac

Originally posted by macavitti
i trust a 5 year extended warranty over a 2 year return policy..
you can try calling samsung about the born on date..let us know

mac

Why would I call Samsung....the date is on the TV. I just thought the HLP REPLACED the HLN's, but obviously not. Extended warranites are a good idea no matter where you buy the TV from. Just make sure it includes the bulb, and is from a reputable source.

Originally posted by macavitti
i wouldnt buy it at that price..i got the HLP5063w for $3100 and i got my 5 year extended warranty for $200..
where i got the HLP, the HLN was offered at $2600..
a store in NJ..not online

this may start a price comparison chat
mac


I never heard of a 5 year warranty on any projection TV for $200.00. Something sounds fishy. They will lose their a-s at that price. Most of the TV's will need one or more bulbs in 5 years, and that alone is $200.00 each time. Just what does this warranty cover, and who is backing it? Sears wants 4 times that much for a 5 year warranty! Very interesting.

the hlp is the 3rd generation.and hln is 2nd generation.
i thought you thought there was something fishy about the date.
i called samsung because your question interested me as well..the customer service told me they are still making HLN's in addition to the HLP's.
i asked why they would do that and he responded that some people may prefer the different HD chip..i dont know about that..

mac

[QUOTE]Originally posted by macavitti
the hlp is the 3rd generation.and hln is 2nd generation.
i thought you thought there was something fishy about the date.
i called samsung because your question interested me as well..the customer service told me they are still making HLN's in addition to the HLP's.
i asked why they would do that and he responded that some people may prefer the different HD chip..i dont know about that..

mac [/QUOte

I meant $200.00 for a 5 year warranty sounds fishy ( as in too good to be true) Thanks for calling Samsung.....this is the FIRST time ever I have heard that they are still making the HLN series. Anyone else know about this?? Some people actually prefer the sharper picture of the HLN to the softer pic on the HLP. I feel that way myself.

The reason may be due to the postponement/cancellation of the HD2+ table top model (aka --73 models). Since the HLN --7 or HLN --65 uses the HD2 chip, the HLP--63 uses the HD3 chip and the HLP--85 uses the HD2+ chip, it would make some sense. One also needs to clean out the inventory of parts to minimize inventory cost.

Originally posted by GDWindowpane
So I'm kind of at a loss. How can I convince Sears that there is a problem? I don't want to have to keep re-entering the settings.



Demand a replacement Light Engine. Don't accept anything less. If Sears won't do it get in touch with Samsung and get them to send a tech out. Some folks just had ballast and bulb changed out but many others have gotten replacement engines instead. That is not always a good thing, I had an LE with a small geometry problem but after they the set and I ended up with the 3 BL problem. Not a happy camper. They replaced the light engine and so far so good.

Good luck. Get a hold of Samsung and tell Sears to check out your washer as that is more likely their forte. ;-)

Well, I have the dreaded 3-blinking lights AGAIN. I had this the first time back in June after having my 5063 for a week. The local tech replaced the light engine, that time. Now, I've experienced the same thing twice, last evening and again this evening. I turned it on, got the blinking lights, unplugged it for about 30 minutes, plugged it back in, pushed the button and it came up normally. After that happened the second time, I called Samsung, who gave me another number to call. The Samsung tech gave me the same local tech I had out last time to call, who are closed by now, naturally. I'm getting nervous, again.

John

Originally posted by timclark
Get a hold of Samsung and tell Sears to check out your washer as that is more likely their forte. ;-)
When you buy a Samsung TV from Sears you can only go to Sears for service. That's the downside. The upside is that if you go up the Sears chain of command you should get taken care of with a repair that works, a replacement, or a refund.

well i had the tech come out today and change my light engine..i had a color-wheel noise on hlp5063.
it is great now..no noisy wheel
i also mentioned i had that tiny moving white dot..
the tech noticed my TV was plugged into my cablebox..i did that because of remote control issues..but he said i shouldn't do that because when i shut off the cable i am cutting power to the TV.this will restrict its cool down process,thus reduce bulb life as well
i now have them plugged separately and this also resolved my tiny white dot problem..that i cant explain exactly but it was an electrical interference problem.
now the problem is everything has a reddish tone..picture seems darker..
i was worried that the new light engine would change the setting but they still seem the same..


mac:mad:

i should let all know that i shut the tv off and turned it back on and there is no longer darker reddish screen -back to normal..samsung cant explain

@jdiff:
First off, I want to thank you for all your help so far :)
Now, my concern. I tried 1248X702, and experienced overscan on the bottom, top and right hand side. THe left hand side was underscanned. So, i tried 1216X684 and now, i am almost there. I have NO overscan on either the top, bottom or right hand side, but ihave a black bar which is about half an inch in width on the left hand side. I guess, my concern is that the display isnt centered. Any ideas?

I also want to note that on both resolutions, there was bowing present on the left hand side (this could have been present on the right but i couldnt notice it). It seemed like *for the 1216 res* that the top has more underscan than the bottom, it was obvious. Any ideas regarding this??

WHat was your procedure when you changed the res in power strip? I went into it, clicked advanced timing, then custom resolution, and changed it in there, but i didnt change any of the timings. did you? Could i be hurting my display by not changing the timings?


Thanks!

What is the specific part number of light engine...???? The "local" repair techs are dumber than....well fill in the blank...:) I want to hand them a specific parts list so iI get the right parts....I've got BP96-00608A for the bulb, BP96-000690A for the ballast. Set is a HLP-4663WX

If I missed the answer to this question I apologise....

thanks....

Originally posted by htwaits
When you buy a Samsung TV from Sears you can only go to Sears for service. That's the downside. The upside is that if you go up the Sears chain of command you should get taken care of with a repair that works, a replacement, or a refund.

Who made that rule? I bought mine from ABT and after the first visit from their tech with no resolution, I contacted Samsung directly with no hassles. If you have to prove you have a 3BL problem to a Sears tech, something is wrong. I suspect that if he made a call to Samsung, he would get the issue resolved, with or without Sears blessing. He is not under their extended warranty yet.

i dont have the part#..its not on the slip..
i turned the tv off and waited a few minutes and when i turned it back on and the color was normal again.
the color was normal when he left so at some point things got red..
i took a picture of the tv with a bright flash..would that do anything?
i called samsung and they said it might have been the colorwheel adjusting itself

mac

Originally posted by timclark
Who made that rule?
It's not a rule. It's the contract that Sears has with Samsung. Sears owns the service rights to all the Samsung (and probably all the others they sell) TV's they sell. That's from day one. If you call Samsung they have to refer you back to Sears.

So has anyone had the three blinking light problem appear, then never bother them again?

I've had it happen twice, about a month apart. Unplugging and letting it sit solved the problem.

But if it's just going to get worse, I'd rather have it fixed before the set goes kaputt. But right now it's working fine...

i would at least notify samsung that you have the blinking lights problem..they will put that note on your file..they document all the calls you make..i feel like im getting to know them better.. ;)
i personally would get it fixed..i spent enough money to have this thing be 100%

mac

Originally posted by htwaits
It's not a rule. It's the contract that Sears has with Samsung. Sears owns the service rights to all the Samsung (and probably all the others they sell) TV's they sell. That's from day one. If you call Samsung they have to refer you back to Sears.

Correct. Some retailers handle all service entirely on their own, and Sears is one of them. Sony, Samsung, Toshiba... it doesnt matter, in fact at least back in the day, when you used call Sony for service, one of the options right away is "If you purchased your Television at Sears, please press..."

This can make for an interesting situation when the MFR is releasing new technical bulletins and stuff that dont quite make it to the Sears repair facility in a timely manner.

Originally posted by ImpalaSS99
@jdiff:
First off, I want to thank you for all your help so far :)
Now, my concern. I tried 1248X702, and experienced overscan on the bottom, top and right hand side. THe left hand side was underscanned. So, i tried 1216X684 and now, i am almost there. I have NO overscan on either the top, bottom or right hand side, but ihave a black bar which is about half an inch in width on the left hand side. I guess, my concern is that the display isnt centered. Any ideas?


If the picture isn't centered, you can re-position it through the Service Menu. It should give you X and Y axis options, and you can move the picture l/r/up/down.

Originally posted by oldgeek
What is the specific part number of light engine...???? The "local" repair techs are dumber than....well fill in the blank...:) I want to hand them a specific parts list so iI get the right parts....I've got BP96-00608A for the bulb, BP96-000690A for the ballast. Set is a HLP-4663WX

If I missed the answer to this question I apologise....

thanks....

I believe this actually goes back to Gdwindowpane::
You may have a problem. I had the LE replaced twice on my HLP 4663WX. The first introduced a geopmetry problem, the second could not fix it.
Samsung claims that one LE fits all--BP96-00564A was what was put in. Yet the box is marked Engine Assbly-L3-50".
This engine trieds to throw a 50" image on a 46 inch screen. I don't find 10% oversacn, loss of news crawlers or a trezoid rather than a rectangle for 4:3 acceptable. If Samsung could not get this right directly, I fear you will have major problems with Sears. If this LE is correct for this set, then it must be aligned with the DMD board, whiohc has asome physical adjustments, at the factory. The tech not only could not do it on site, but also ruined the PQ, I am pixellated. A new set is finally in transit for me.
Good luck. Please keep us updated as to what happens

Originally posted by cyberbri
If the picture isn't centered, you can re-position it through the Service Menu. It should give you X and Y axis options, and you can move the picture l/r/up/down.

ooof! thank you so much!

any idea why the bowing occurs?

impala,
My picture is slightly bowed on the right side, I have heard that this is unavoidable on rear proj sets due to the short distance between the lens and the screen, i.e. a very small change in the alignment of the lenses will make a dramatic change in the screen geometry. I haven't messed with recentering the picture, mine is slightly off-center but since it is underscanned anyway it doesn't make that much of a difference to me. I won't be able to bump it up to a bigger (1248x702) resolution without overscan no matter how perfectly centered the image is.
I basically did what you did in powerstrip, I didn't mess with the timings either. In addition to the SM tweaks, I think fiddling with the timings also might affect the positioning of the image but to me it's not worth the hassle. If I get brave enough to go in to the SM, I might play with it there. I'm, nowhere near knowledgeable enough about powerstrip to know what all the timing settings mean.
Your computer's graphics card driver software might also allow for centering of the image, so that could be another way to tackle the problem.

Thanks guys for all your replies, im at work now but ill try them out today after work

Jdiff, you from around philly? I went to drexel :-p

Here's an easy one for you guys: When displaying 4:3 material on Full mode, are the windowboxes black, dark grey, light grey or what...?

I would MUCH prefer black and it's sort of a pet peeve for me when they are grey...

Originally posted by beckmen
Here's an easy one for you guys: When displaying 4:3 material on Full mode, are the windowboxes black, dark grey, light grey or what...?

I would MUCH prefer black and it's sort of a pet peeve for me when they are grey...

They are Pitch Black. Almost as black as when the tv is turned off.

Awesome. I can just pretend it's a 4:3 TV when watching 4:3 content. I hate how most RPTVs have the grey. Like Sonys and stuff. It just seems like it would be too distracting, and would take a while to adjust to.

Not to butt in, but usually "Full" mode means "use the full 16x9 area of the screen", which would provide the original aspect ratio for anamorphic content and a uniform stretch for 4x3 material.

Also, most of the Sony RP LCDs use black bars instead of gray bars when watching 4x3 content in "Normal" mode. For example, the GWIII uses black bars (whereas I don't believe gray bars are even an option).

Originally posted by beckmen
Here's an easy one for you guys: When displaying 4:3 material on Full mode, are the windowboxes black, dark grey, light grey or what...?

I would MUCH prefer black and it's sort of a pet peeve for me when they are grey...

Yes and no on the black bars. With OTA high def into a Disknetwork 811 reciever, DVI connected to the 4663, I get grey bars on CBS (channel 2 in chicago) and black bars on just about everything else. Go figure.

CBS high def in chicago is pretty much non-existent as it doesn't look much better than SD satellite.

That sounds like the channel, though and not how the TV is designed.

Oh, I got confused on the picture modes. Anyone have a link to pics of what the differant modes look like by any chance?

Originally posted by dennya
So has anyone had the three blinking light problem appear, then never bother them again?

I've had it happen twice, about a month apart. Unplugging and letting it sit solved the problem.

But if it's just going to get worse, I'd rather have it fixed before the set goes kaputt. But right now it's working fine...

I've had the blinking lights happen twice. The first time, I unplugged it and it came back on with out a problem. At that point I left it on for about 7 days until the Sears tech came out. At that point it was still working fine. Couldn't reproduce the problem. It then reappeared 2 days ago. Once again, unplugged and it came back on and has been working with no problems for a couple of days now.

I'm still going to contact Sears and try to talk to a second tier tech who might be a little more knowledgable then the first guy that came out. Might even try and talk to Samsung to see if they can email or fax me some "official" statement regarding the blinking light problem.

However now I'm a little worried about getting the light engine replaced. Certainly don't want a 50" light engine projecting onto my 61" screen. Will let you know...

When watching material through a Comcast Motorola 6200 box, all the analog channels when viewed in 4:3 have black bars which I think are a function of the TV. However the digital channels, when broadcasting 4:3 material, are actually broadcasting a 16:9 image which includes the side bars (black, grey, or other) surrounding the 4:3 picture. This is evident the most with ESPN Digital which has this stylized vertical HD logo in black and grey on the sides of their 4:3 content, and they disappear when they broadcast true HD (16:9) content.

Impala, I'm about 45 minutes outside of Philly, and went to Villanova.

I bought my HLP063 last Sunday and have had very few problems until today. My screen was a little crooked. The image was almost a half inch lower on the right side of the tv. Also the bowing on the 4:3 was extreme. I called Samsung and had a tech come out from a local tv shop. He said he was going to replace the "DMD module?" Is that the light engine or something else? Because this morning I had the three blinking light problem. I unplugged the set for about 10 mins and it went away. Also I had vertical color lines running down my tv set. IF the DMD module is the LE, then I won't call Samsung back. If not, I guess I need to call back and ask them to tell the tech to replace that too. What do you think? By the way, this website is like"God's library of Audio/Video Information!" One the day I'm getting HD installed, NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Dale

The DMD is the module containing the display chip (Digital Micromirror Device). If the tech said DMD module, I would assume he didn't mean light engine, so I would call Samsung again. The light engine contains the DMD, so replacing the LE will take care of both problems.

The DMD is the digital board which is housed on the bottom of the light engine in this model. I believe Samsung has go to replacing just the modules needed rather than the whole light engine assembly as they had previously done.

Originally posted by mchuckp
I've seen some previous posts about getting poor quality on SD through DVI. Someone mentioned splitting cables for SD.

I'm looking at getting a Samsung DLP in a few months and I will have a HD box through Time Warner Cable that has a DVI. This is what I planned to do. Can someone tell me if this doesn't work.

I want to hook up the DVI input from the cable box to the TV and also hook up the HD component video. This way I can channel surf on the component setting and get HD and SD signals. When I know I'm getting HD, I can switch over to the DVI setting for better quality but not necessarily have to.



Haven't scanned this thread in awhile so this response may be a day late and a dollar short, but since this is something I had to deal with I figured I'd put in my 2 cents.

The HD cable box (mine is a Motorola 5200/1000 or something like that) has a setup menu, and in the cable box's setup menu you can specify the scan rate for the signal the box sends to the television. When my scan rate was set to 480P the picture on the television had problems. Setting the scan rate to 720P didn't work at all (I was told that Samsung has a hardware fix for this problem with Motorola boxes but haven't looked into it yet). Setting the scan rate output from the cable box to 1080i fixed my problems and I'm happy with the picture.

It's interesting to note that after I had fixed this I was talking to Comcast's technical support about something else and got onto this topic with the support gal, and she had the exact same problem and didn't know that there was any fix for it!

If you do a search on this forum for posts from me (the title was something about flicker at the top of the screen) you can find the thread and the responses from a helpful soul that described how to get to the setup menu on the cable box.

Newfler

For the HD Motorola boxes (I have a black digital cable one, and a silver 6800 HD one), to access the setup menu, just press the Menu button while the box is off. This will let you set display type (4:3, 16:9), output resolution, non-HD override (either 480i/480p, or off to upconvert non-HD signals to pillar-boxed and at same resolution set above), as well as closed captioning.

To get into the diagnostic(?) menu, with the STB on, turn it off and within a few seconds press the Enter button in the middle of the arrows on the remote. I don't think you can change anything here, but you can view lots of different stuff, like the signal strength of the channel the box was on when it was turned off, etc.

I have had the three blinking lights problem with the HLP6163W and CC came out and replaced the whole set. It was only a week or so old and therefore was still covered by the 30 day return waranty. It's been two weeks now, and I haven't any problems since it was replaced.

I posted in this thread earlier about the problem, so I thought that I should come back with the results. Everythings fine now, and I really love this set. I have the Samsung SIR-TS360 DirecTV HD Reciever and I'm using the DVI to connect to the TV. I'm happy now with my purchase choice, as long as there are no more problems.

Originally posted by Fedreams
The DMD is the digital board which is housed on the bottom of the light engine in this model. I believe Samsung has go to replacing just the modules needed rather than the whole light engine assembly as they had previously done.

So instead of fixing the LE, they're only replacing the DMD module on it. Will this fix the three blinking light problem?

Dale

Originally posted by dkyork
Will this fix the three blinking light problem?

Dale
No. That's a lamp/ballast problem.

Originally posted by htwaits
No. That's a lamp/ballast problem.

I think I'm going crazy. So I need lamp, ballast, and LE?

Dale

Originally posted by dkyork
So instead of fixing the LE, they're only replacing the DMD module on it. Will this fix the three blinking light problem?

Dale

If you are having both the 3BL and geometry/alignment issues, I would insist on getting an entire new light engine. The LE contains (1) the bulb/ballast assembly (which will fix 3BL), (2) the color wheel and (3) the DMD chip. It seems silly to replace the chip and not the bulb/ballast if you are having 3BL and at that point they should just replace the whole LE. I had my entire LE replaced and all I had was 3BL - no geometry problems.

I think you are more likely to have a trouble free set if they aren't taking apart and reassembling the components but rather just swapping entire pieces in and out.

Okay, I tried the resolution change and the 4x3 mode, and I ended up with both sides of the screen cut off in 4x3.

But forget Powerstrip and all that. Go to Nvidia's driver download page and select beta drivers. The new drivers add an HDTV setting which offers an overscan option for the desktop. Not sure how well it works with games and video stuff yet, though.

Originally posted by EricScott
If you are having both the 3BL and geometry/alignment issues, I would insist on getting an entire new light engine. The LE contains (1) the bulb/ballast assembly (which will fix 3BL), (2) the color wheel and (3) the DMD chip. It seems silly to replace the chip and not the bulb/ballast if you are having 3BL and at that point they should just replace the whole LE. I had my entire LE replaced and all I had was 3BL - no geometry problems.

I think you are more likely to have a trouble free set if they aren't taking apart and reassembling the components but rather just swapping entire pieces in and out.

Ah thanks for the response. That seems much more logical and I understand now. So bottom line is I need them to replace the entire LE. Samsung rep gave me this number to call. I'm going to talk to them: 800-747-5618. He said the tech there would know more then my local shop and make a recommendation.

thanks,

Dale

Edit: Well I got a lvl 2 tech and he confirmed what it was and said the entire LE needs replaced. I better call the local tech shop and let them know. Thanks guys!

my remote stops working randomly. i know its not the remote its self its the tv. like it stops looking for it. dlpboy88 had the same problem.
i wish he posted the fix or i just missed it in this long thread. search engine sux.

i just bought the hlp6163w. i am not too happy with the contrast.
bright scenes look great but darker scenes look muddy.
i may be spoiled from my 36 sony wegas contrast. what is the contrast of crt like that?


so now i am thinking of returning the tv and getting a diff tv or wait till the hlp6197w comes out.

i really would like the hlp6197w but i dont know if i can wait more than a few months. what is the latest news on this model? is the contrast ratio of 5000:1 true some places say 3000:1. would this help the muddy look in dark scenes? if my set has 1500:1 contrast ratio i would think double that should make me happy. and 5000:1 would have me in tv heaven.

i think d-ila sounds great. i may look in to that more.

i think i will go up to the store and try the games that looked muddy to see how they look on some other large hd tvs.

should i wait for the newer samsung or am i being too picky. should get my hlp6163w fixed and keep it?

Originally posted by acem77
my remote stops working randomly. i know its not the remote its self its the tv. like it stops looking for it. dlpboy88 had the same problem.
i wish he posted the fix or i just missed it in this long thread. search engine sux.

I also had remote issues with my tv. The sensor on the TV was bad when i recieved the TV. They replaced it with a new one that operates much better......still have issues with it accepting the remote's power button from time to time though....

Originally posted by RickDias
I am getting unhappy with the Samsung technical service I am receiving. I had a problem with video dropouts on component input from XBox, and techs installed a new digital board a couple weeks ago. That fixed the original problem but damaged the color balance on all three composite inputs. The techs tried to install a new digital board (that was their 4th visit, each one eats a few hours out of my work schedule) and it didn't fix the problem. They decided that they had to do more diagnostics back at their shop, and took the tv with them a few days ago.


Happy ending (or at least I hope it is the end of the story) at last. The techs came back yesterday with the tv and it seems to be working perfectly. They said that they had to replace the digital and signal boards to solve the color balance problem. I made them sit there while I tried every input with a variety of devices, and made sure that they hadn't just set the image controls to some extreme values to cover the problem.

So - after 5 visits totaling a couple days of missed work, I finally have the set I should have had 3 months ago when I bought it. And I love it!

Originally posted by ironfoot995
Well, I have the dreaded 3-blinking lights AGAIN. I had this the first time back in June after having my 5063 for a week. The local tech replaced the light engine, that time. Now, I've experienced the same thing twice, last evening and again this evening. I turned it on, got the blinking lights, unplugged it for about 30 minutes, plugged it back in, pushed the button and it came up normally. After that happened the second time, I called Samsung, who gave me another number to call. The Samsung tech gave me the same local tech I had out last time to call, who are closed by now, naturally. I'm getting nervous, again.

John

My .02 John - insist on a new TV or a refund. The chances of two bad LE's are....well, let's just say, unlikely.

BTW I have a HLP6163, zero problems.

Gents,
My 2 cents for my HLP 5063W experience.
I have enjoyed the PQ quality on my set for 3 weeks. Except it gives me headaches when watching more then 2 hrs. So I decided to return it for an LCD RP.
I also had the dreaded AV synch issue, more on some SD channels then on HD. That was stryke 2 for me ( not really a big deal since I care for sports; wife wents nuts beacuse of regular sitcoms etc..)
One thing worth nothing is that in the first weeks I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY RAINBOWS. But in the last week I 've rented Van Helsing and ohh boy, rainbow city after that. So a "dark" movie tend to emphasize the issue- watch for it...
I had the LCD for 1 day only and the jury is still out on that !
What a beautifull PQ the sammy has.
You guys enjoy your set and have fun !

Yes, if people are prone rainbows, they will see them when darting their eyes away from a small patch of bright area surrounded by an area of dark - like a candle in a dark room.

I can also make myself see them by holding my hand out and looking at a small slit between my fingers.

I have a 6163, and i see rainbows very rarely during normal viewing. However, when i shift my eyes i can see them all the time.. Honestly, ive gotten used to it, not sure if thats a good or bad thing, but the TV looks so good that a little rainbow doesnt really matter :)

one instance comes to mind, if you bring up the Bourne Identity Dvd, and click play, it will shift a cross hair from a sniper, a white circle on a black background, i see rainbows there.

FYI, i calibrated my TV using avia, and it helped a GREAT deal.

i didnt read this whole thread so im not sure if this is covered or not but has any one found a way to fix the delay with playstation 2. i have the HLP5063W and its driving me crazy. any help would be great

mike

Originally posted by Newfler
Haven't scanned this thread in awhile so this response may be a day late and a dollar short, but since this is something I had to deal with I figured I'd put in my 2 cents.

The HD cable box (mine is a Motorola 5200/1000 or something like that) has a setup menu, and in the cable box's setup menu you can specify the scan rate for the signal the box sends to the television. When my scan rate was set to 480P the picture on the television had problems. Setting the scan rate to 720P didn't work at all (I was told that Samsung has a hardware fix for this problem with Motorola boxes but haven't looked into it yet). Setting the scan rate output from the cable box to 1080i fixed my problems and I'm happy with the picture.

It's interesting to note that after I had fixed this I was talking to Comcast's technical support about something else and got onto this topic with the support gal, and she had the exact same problem and didn't know that there was any fix for it!

If you do a search on this forum for posts from me (the title was something about flicker at the top of the screen) you can find the thread and the responses from a helpful soul that described how to get to the setup menu on the cable box.

Newfler

What is the hardware fix for this that you mention? I have an HL-P5685W and am having the same problem. I called both Tweeter and Samsung, and neither had heard of it. The Tweeter tech is coming out next week. Please advise.

Thx.

I just had an HLP delivered and swapped for my HLN under warranty. I'm havig some issues. I have Motorola 5100 (I think) STB for my Comcast digital cable and HDTV. I had this hooked up to component 3 on my HLN, but when I tried to hook it up to the component inputs of the HLP it wouldn't come in. I tried bith inputs and two different set of cables and all that happened was the picture would flash in for a fraction of a second evry 2-3 seconds. I have an XBox which I also use as a DVD player and that worked with no problem through those same component inputs.

Problem 2: So due to the fact I couldn't get component to work for my STB, I hooked it up via DVI. I didn't like the quality with the DVI wit my old HLN (I think my STB just has a bad DVI connection). Anyway, the DVI input worked for the STB, but whenever there is a sudden cut it rolls horizontally. Has anyone ever experienced that before? I have my STB set to 720.

I'm puzzled; please help!

Try connecting with S-Video to check the configuration of the STB. There may be something that needs changing. If it is a setup problem you should then be able to switch back to either component or DVI. I have the Motorola 6200 set to output 720p with the 480 override turned off. I don't know anything about your STB.

There are two forums where you can find users like yourself. One is "HDTV Hardware" and the other is for local reception issues. Just check the list of AVS forums.

originally posted by Your User Name
...when I tried to hook it up to the component inputs of the HLP...all that happened was the picture would flash in for a fraction of a second evry 2-3 seconds.
When I first set up my HLP with components to a Motorola 6200, I couldn't get any ouput at 720 and the same thing was happening. Changing the output to 1080 fixed that. If the 5100 is similar to the 6200, you can access its menu by hitting the Menu button while it's turned off.

I've since switched to a DVI connection and 720 is available, but I am not experiencing any of the rolling you speak of.

Additional info:
I just had a Moxi installed today (BMC-9012) to replace the DCT-6200 and had to go back to component, as the DVI port is not enabled yet. Having the same trouble I did with the 6200 over component: unable to output at 720p. This has to be something to do with the Samsung. Anyone have any idea?

The stand designed for the HLP models...what size is it meant for? Meaning, if the TV is wider or not as wide than the stand it will look weird and I am wondering what size TV the stand "fits" best...

I just got my DVI hooked up to my 5063 through a Scientific Atlanta 4200HD and damn it's good. Everything looks so clear on hi def channels I couldn't believe it possible to be that much better over component cables. Even SD looks better. And now it's three more component wires I can get rid off from the mess of cables, especially when they're kinda thick blue jeans cables. But on the DVI, can't wait for the Denon 2910.

beckmen..
i think it would look weird if you put a 46'' or a 61'' TV on a stand meant for a 50''

my stand is 46 1/2'' wide for a 50'' HLP..
i dont know how wide the others are


mac

erikb333

So you are watching SD through the DVI port? I was reading that DVI is strictly for digital and you would need component hooked up as well. Is this not true?

Thanks!

Originally posted by mchuckp
erikb333

So you are watching SD through the DVI port? I was reading that DVI is strictly for digital and you would need component hooked up as well. Is this not true?

Thanks!

I ditched the component hookup the day after I got my HLP. SD over DVI is fine, the real bonus is HD which is, IMO, significantly better then component HD.

I have a Samsung HLP5663 connected to a Hughes 10-250 HD Satellite receiver with an off air antenna. I watch HD and SD broadcasts through the HDMI digital interface. You don't have to do any switching on either the Sammy or the receiver.

Originally posted by mchuckp
So you are watching SD through the DVI port? I was reading that DVI is strictly for digital and you would need component hooked up as well. Is this not true?

Thanks!
I have a HLP5063 connected to cable TV with a Motorola 6200 STB using DVI. The STB is outputting 720p with 480 override turned off.

The analog channels are OK. The same stations using their SD digital simulcast are much better. The analog versions might be improved with a separate output but we only have one channel (Fox) where analog is our only choice.

My setup is similar to htwaits, HLP-5063 hooked up to TWC via Mot 6200 STB using DVI cable. I am using 1080i output and am very happy with the SD. It is much better than I thought it would be. I have done one thing though that I haven't seen mentioned. I split the main cable feed using a tap, with only 1db loss in the through feed to the Samsung and the tap feed (6db loss) to the remaining TV's in the house.

So, I got component to work switching ti 1080i output of my STB. It's weird because 720p worked fine through the component on my HLN. Also, the DVI "horizontal rolling" has stopped. I have no idea why it happened or why it stopped. Thanks for the help!

One more question: which is preferable for most people DVI or HDMI?

htwaits or BarryN:

Like you guys, I could connect at 720p or 1080i via DVI from the 6200 to my 5063. Have either of you tried connecting via component at 720p and, if so, were you successful?

I'm trying to get to the bottom of why I couldn't do that with the moto 6200 and now can't with the moto moxi (BMC9012). Only 1080i works with component (480p, too, but not interested in that). Just wondering if it's something with the Samsung that is preventing this.

Originally posted by bruce73
htwaits or BarryN:

Like you guys, I could connect at 720p or 1080i via DVI from the 6200 to my 5063. Have either of you tried connecting via component at 720p and, if so, were you successful?

I was connected with component and 1080i by the Comcast installers. I left it that way until I got a HDMI/DVI combo cable. I switched to the digital connection and 720p without ever trying 720p through component. I guess I just lack curiosity. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Your User Name:
One more question: which is preferable for most people DVI or HDMI?

For video under current conditions I understand that they are identical. Longer cable runs are possible with HDMI.

From what I understand HDMI is basically the same thing as DVI, only with integrated sound...

Is there a way to tell if you are in Progressive or Interlaced mode? I have the 4663 model. I know you can press the info button and it will tell you the resolution, so I know if I am running anything higher than 480, but I cant tell for sure the difference between 480I and P.

Using component input my non-progressive DVD player causes "info" to report 720x480i@60Hz. I can't test it but I would expect a progressive DVD player to cause "info" to report 720x480p@60Hz.

When I play a DVD from my HTPC at 720p through DVI the "info" button reports 1280x720p@60Hz.

Originally posted by Naka
Is there a way to tell if you are in Progressive or Interlaced mode? I have the 4663 model. I know you can press the info button and it will tell you the resolution, so I know if I am running anything higher than 480, but I cant tell for sure the difference between 480I and P.

If the signal is interlaced there will be an "i", if it's progressive there won't be anything - so 720p is shown as 1280x720 @ 60Hz; 1080i is shown as 1920x1080i @ 60Hz.

Originally posted by bruce73
htwaits or BarryN:

Like you guys, I could connect at 720p or 1080i via DVI from the 6200 to my 5063. Have either of you tried connecting via component at 720p and, if so, were you successful?

I'm trying to get to the bottom of why I couldn't do that with the moto 6200 and now can't with the moto moxi (BMC9012). Only 1080i works with component (480p, too, but not interested in that). Just wondering if it's something with the Samsung that is preventing this.

there is a hardware fix available from samsung so it is apparently the samsung at fault. Contact the DSG for info on the fix. I think its a board swap.

In the interest of full disclosure, I'd like to get the fix, but I also kind of want to wait and see how it's going for people. I'm also wondering if the fix might incorporate HDMI discrete codes and other 85 series problems that might come up. Also waiting for an upgrade option in case they break something applying the fix - happened to me last time with the lipsync fix on my HLN.

Actually, the HLN lipsync fix broke 720P component from the motorola box so they let me upgrade to the HLP5685 - which won't display 720P component from the motorpla box, same as the "broken HLN".

jb

Progressive DVD shows 720x480@60HZ", no "p" shows although non-progressive does show "480i".

I have a SIR-TS360 DirecTV receiver and a Samsung HL-P5063W DLP TV. I have recently connected the 2 with a DVI-D cable (both are DVI-D) and am having problems with getting any signal on certain resolutions. If I am watching a NON Digital or HD channel (Native 480i/480p, almost all DirecTV channels) I get a picture using DVI. For all other channels (local DIGITAL from off air antenna, and DirecTV HD channels) I get NO PICTURE whatsoever. I figured this was a configuration issue, not a cable issue as I can get pictures in the lower resolution. I had my receiver set up for Native 1 (as to display all programming in it's intended resolution) and had the correct output set on my receiver and correct input on my TV. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

jb33 wrote:
there is a hardware fix available from samsung so it is apparently the samsung at fault. Contact the DSG for info on the fix. I think its a board swap.

Thanks for the info. But I'm with you on the "wait and see" approach. I've only had the 5063 for 10 weeks, and so far it's been perfect. With all of the problems some have with it just out of the box, I'm a little reticent to go messing with it. Besides, apparently there will be a moxi upgrade in the next couple of months which will enable the DVI port.

BTW, what is "DSG"?

Originally posted by emilesVT
I have a SIR-TS360 DirecTV receiver and a Samsung HL-P5063W DLP TV. I have recently connected the 2 with a DVI-D cable (both are DVI-D) and am having problems with getting any signal on certain resolutions. If I am watching a NON Digital or HD channel (Native 480i/480p, almost all DirecTV channels) I get a picture using DVI. For all other channels (local DIGITAL from off air antenna, and DirecTV HD channels) I get NO PICTURE whatsoever. I figured this was a configuration issue, not a cable issue as I can get pictures in the lower resolution. I had my receiver set up for Native 1 (as to display all programming in it's intended resolution) and had the correct output set on my receiver and correct input on my TV. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Is the box outputting in 480i? I know that I can get a 480i picture over my DVI, but it is horrible, and DVI isn't supposed to get a picture with that resolution.

Well the box is outputting 480i when the incoming resolution is 480i. I have the receiver to output whatever signal comes into the box, to output the same resolution to the TV, ie 480i in, 480i out; 720p in, 720p out. When the signal is 720p or 1080i, the screen just goes black. It doesn't tell me "no signal" or anything like that, there just is no picture.

That's over DVI? If you're confident you have it set up correctly (options, switches, etc.), the problem could be the receiver box itself.

Originally posted by cyberbri
Is the box outputting in 480i? I know that I can get a 480i picture over my DVI, but it is horrible, and DVI isn't supposed to get a picture with that resolution.

Cyberbri,

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I want to comment on your setup (MyHT link).

I really like your setup. Where did you get your furniture? It reminds me of Ikea but I couldn't locate in the catalog. I think my wife would actually approve of it as it blends in nicely.

Again, I apologize for being OT but I only had the one question.

Shawn

Yup, it's Ikea. The "Magiker" line. Got it around April or so this year, and it was about $500 for the TV stand, two cabinets on either side, and the shelves above the TV.

It doesn't match the coffee table, but we like the low coffee table so much (good for eating around, daughter's drawing/homework) that we don't mind that the color doesn't match. ;)

I've seen this question asked before, but can't find a reply. I just bought a HLP-5063W. I have a cable box with a DVI connection, so I bought a DVI/HMDI connector. I realize DVI doesn't transmit audio, so I hooked up audio cables from the cable box to the TV. I still don't have any audio. Is that because I have a HDMI connector and it's looking for the audio at that connection and ignoring the audio cables? The only way I can get audio from the TV is with a component connection and the standard audio cables.

Originally posted by tnmacavo
I've seen this question asked before, but can't find a reply. I just bought a HLP-5063W. I have a cable box with a DVI connection, so I bought a DVI/HMDI connector. I realize DVI doesn't transmit audio, so I hooked up audio cables from the cable box to the TV. I still don't have any audio. Is that because I have a HDMI connector and it's looking for the audio at that connection and ignoring the audio cables? The only way I can get audio from the TV is with a component connection and the standard audio cables.
A Samsung DLP TV doesn't have any separate audio connections for it's HDMI port.

I use a A/V receiver and connect the digital audio out from the STB to the A/V receiver. I use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the video to the TV and you are right, a DVI device will not send an audio signal over any cable even if it's HDMI. To do that you need a HDMI input device talking to another HDMI device.

I have a HLP5063 and I use the DVI connection. It has both.

I am confused, why would TNMacavo bother using thew HDMI converter when both the TV and Cable Box are DVI? That's probably the problem...

PS: Found this last night and found it pretty interesting in my drooling. Anyone else drooling over these sets should check this out...http://www.samsungusa.com/dlpmanual/

"I am confused, why would TNMacavo bother using thew HDMI converter when both the TV and Cable Box are DVI? That's probably the problem..."

Your point is well taken. I could have done that, but when I went to buy a DVI/DVI cable, I saw the DVI/HDMI cable and naturally thought the HDMI must be some type of improvement over the DVI/DVI (silly me), or why else would they even bother to make the cable??

In retrospect, I suppose there may be TVs that only have HDMI input and not DVI, which would justify its existance.

Thanks.

From what I know the only real differance is that HDMI has integrated sound, so you don't have to hook up R/L jacks for the sound. Which I would assume is why your having this problem...

But I am terribly new to all this.

Originally posted by cyberbri
That's over DVI? If you're confident you have it set up correctly (options, switches, etc.), the problem could be the receiver box itself.

Funny thing, I'm actually on my 2nd receiver now. I took the first one back thinking it was a receiver issue. Still the same thing. I'm baffled.

Originally posted by emilesVT
Funny thing, I'm actually on my 2nd receiver now. I took the first one back thinking it was a receiver issue. Still the same thing. I'm baffled.

I had problems with the DVI when I first hooked it up. Once I didn't allow 480i signals to be passed through to the cable, I got a picture. As far as not seeing 720p or 1080i, there's gotta be setting in STB that allows it to be passed through.

I just received a replacement HLP6163...when watching ESPN HD... I noticed the HD side bars were different sizes...one side was 1 inch wider than the other...anybody else ever see this...is there a adjustment for this...I have the set hooked up to Dish HD811 sat receiver with DVI. I did not have this with my first HLP6163.

You can move your picture horizontally R or L in the service menu, first menu, second setting IIRC.
However--1st look and see if your sidebars are even when watching other 4:3 material. If so, then this is caused by your DISH equipment. Important, because any H/V position change in the SM will be for ALL inputs. (Also, just entering the SM will wipe out your User settings and revert the setrtings to OTB)
Also--I have noted that my Moto HD Cable box sends out too big a signal over DVI (and laso component), I ahve addressed this by setting the signal to 720p, which then allows the HLP to offer the PC pifcture size options onm DVI, and "Expand" gives me the proper picture, rather than being 5% too wide and tall in "Wide".

FYI--I spoke with Samsung and my DVI problem has been fixed. Oddly enough, I have to specify the output resolution on the receiver to be 1080i for DVI to work. I've gone through the manual and it is not stated ANYWHERE in there about this. Is this just an issue with the particular receiver I have? Seems silly to me to require output resolution to only be 1080i...I wonder if that's something that could be changed in the future with a software upgrade...

That should not be, since my DVI works fine with my cable box at 720p, as many others report. Perhaps your receiver had somehow had 480i as a default, requiring a selection of something else?

I'm assuming it's more because of my specific receiver...I use the Samsung SIR-TS360 DirecTV receiver. Like I said, I'm just repeating what the guy at Samsung told me and when I did change it...everything started working...

Originally posted by emilesVT
I'm assuming it's more because of my specific receiver...I use the Samsung SIR-TS360 DirecTV receiver. Like I said, I'm just repeating what the guy at Samsung told me and when I did change it...everything started working...

On my HLP6163 I can use 720p over DVI just fine with the SIR-TS360.

Hmmmm, maybe I'll need to go back and call again. Thanks for the info.

Hi all, looking to make my first purchase and was pretty much sold on the hlp 6163, until this past weekend. I saw it side by side in a store with a sony kdf60wf655 lcd and to be quite honest, the sony was brighter and had crisper color ( the blue sky was indeed sky blue, while the sammy seemed washed out or faded).

So, my question is, was i just looking at a sammy with an old or less bright bulb (I read the sony has 150w, and i'm aware of all the early production problems with the sammy's light engine and read somewhere that they've also replaced their bulb with a better one), or is what I'm seeing just the result of idiots messing up the color settings in the store? I know it's going to look much different in my living room than it does in a super store, but I'm serious, the difference in picture quality was astounding and has me questioning why I should choose the sammy dlp over sony's lcd.

Any help would really be appreciated.

oh, one other thing - they were comparably priced, and the sony has a built in decoder and cable card.

Am I just needlessly second guessing myself.

Does the newer sony 655 have any advantage in Pic Quality over the 610's? The reaosn why I ask is that the price drop on the 42we610 was pretty significant. If there is not much difference in terms of PQ between the two, i might jusmp on this price cut.

Let me know, thanks!

Also, are the 610's referred to the GWIII and the 655's the GW IV?

Add me to the list of those with a new light engine installed in my HLP6163. Had the 3BL problem, still have the smudges problem as well. The local contracted tech was familiar enough with LE replacements, as he's done a few. He also agreed he'd replace my screen once I open a repair ticket with Samsung. I've had the replacement LE for about a week now and just yesterday, turned on the TV to this (see link). It was like this on all inputs. Turning the set off and back on cleared up the problem. Anyone see this before?

quote:
"I've had the replacement LE for about a week now and just yesterday, turned on the TV to this (see link). It was like this on all inputs. Turning the set off and back on cleared up the problem. Anyone see this before?"


I've hit this once so far (although I've only had the set a week). Turning the set off and on cleared it up. Anyone have any other info on this problem?

Had my Light engine replaced today on my HLP5063. The image is not crooked anymore, but the shadows and dark areas are green and HORRIBLE looking!!!! The techs said that the LE was newer and the digital board was old and had to have SM settings redone. Anyone heard of this or had this happen to them? The picture before the LE exchange was great, but my tv had the 3BL problem among other things. When I say the image is bad, I mean it's real bad!!!! All the shadowing looks grainy and colors shimmer. Did I get a bad LE? I don't get the 3BL problem anymore. :)

thanks,

Dale

It sounds like you have a bad digital board. At least the firmware in it doesn't match your new light engine. So what is the tech going to do about it?

Originally posted by htwaits
It sounds like you have a bad digital board. At least the firmware in it doesn't match your new light engine. So what is the tech going to do about it?

They said they're coming back Friday to redo the SM settings. I found that strange considering many others have had their LE replaced and that was it, ready to go. I'm on the phone right now with Samsung lvl 2 tech support. Well on hold anyway. The lvl 1 tech said he never heard of adjusting the SM settings due to the digital board being older then the LE. All I know is, before the LE replacement, the picture was beautiful. IF it wasn't for the crooked image, 3bl, and vertical rainbow lines at times, I'd be heaven. Now it's worse then before. I think me and my HLP5063 are going to have a trip back to Circuit City soon. Oh yeah, and the tech told me the 5674 and 4674 are being pushed back to March 2005. Damn, and I Was going to exchange this for a 5674!!!!!

Dale

Originally posted by dkyork
They said they're coming back Friday to redo the SM settings. I found that strange considering many others have had their LE replaced and that was it, ready to go. I'm on the phone right now with Samsung lvl 2 tech support. Well on hold anyway. The lvl 1 tech said he never heard of adjusting the SM settings due to the digital board being older then the LE. All I know is, before the LE replacement, the picture was beautiful. IF it wasn't for the crooked image, 3bl, and vertical rainbow lines at times, I'd be heaven. Now it's worse then before. I think me and my HLP5063 are going to have a trip back to Circuit City soon. Oh yeah, and the tech told me the 5674 and 4674 are being pushed back to March 2005. Damn, and I Was going to exchange this for a 5674!!!!!

Dale

EDIT: I'm taking it back to CC and getting a refund. They last customer rep told me that they don't have tech 2 or tech 3 phone support. lol!!! I told him I'm going to go ahead and refund it and buy a Sony then. I was j/k of course. However, since the 74s are pushed back to March, if that's true, I might consider another brand. If only the 85s had the speakers setup like the 63s!!!!!!!!!!!! IT won't fit in the hole above my fireplace. :(

Dale

March 05 for the 74's! The 4674 is already on the market and the 5674 will be in the stores in a matter of weeks. Not sure why someone would tell you they are being pushed back.

CC won't even have the 74 models -- he is trying to avoid losing your sale to a store that is carying them.

Originally posted by Paul_PDX
CC won't even have the 74 models -- he is trying to avoid losing your sale to a store that is carying them.

This was a Samsung Customer Rep I was talking too that told me that. I have the 5674 preordered right now from TVA and they say they have heard no such change. Hopefully they'll be in by end of this week. The customer rep from Samsung also said that they stopped production to fix some things with the tv and that's why it's pushed back to March; however, any tvs out there already will be sold. I don't know how much weight what he says holds, but I hope it's not true. He also said they took the tvs off the website. I haven't checked yet to see if that's true either.

Dale

Originally posted by dkyork
This was a Samsung Customer Rep I was talking too that told me that. I have the 5674 preordered right now from TVA and they say they have heard no such change. Hopefully they'll be in by end of this week. The customer rep from Samsung also said that they stopped production to fix some things with the tv and that's why it's pushed back to March; however, any tvs out there already will be sold. I don't know how much weight what he says holds, but I hope it's not true. He also said they took the tvs off the website. I haven't checked yet to see if that's true either.

Dale

Still there.

http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLP5674WX%2fXAA :D

Originally posted by dkyork
I have the 5674 preordered right now from TVA and they say they have heard no such change.
Magnolia in Northern California no longer has a specific date for the HLP5674. There system just indicates it's on it's way. A week ago they had something like November 15th. The HLP4674 is supposed to be on the floor in Palo Alto tomorrow. The rep may be right.

Originally posted by jdmoser
Still there.

http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLP5674WX%2fXAA :D

SWEET, now hopefully it will stay!!!! :p

After getting a light engine/boards swap i started having a weird problem with lines appearing on my screen occasionally. The latest time was the 4th instance since Sept. Anyone else having this problem? What was done to resolve this issue by either Samsung or yourself? Seems like the only way to get them to go away is to power down the TV and then turn it back on....changing sources amongst other things has no effect.

Originally posted by zlindsay328
After getting a light engine/boards swap i started having a weird problem with lines appearing on my screen occasionally. The latest time was the 4th instance since Sept. Anyone else having this problem? What was done to resolve this issue by either Samsung or yourself? Seems like the only way to get them to go away is to power down the TV and then turn it back on....changing sources amongst other things has no effect.

second pic

I looked at the spec sheet for the 4674 and it doesn't mention the viewing. I have been waiting FOREVER for this unit to come out, but am now told it uses a 6 segment wheel and no mention of the viewing angle, and is only 200:1 contrast ratio. Whatever on all of this except the viewing angle, which, if it's like the 4663, I can't live with. Anyone know if it's actually 160 degrees, like I was told a while back? Or is it just 100, like the 4663? Also, can someone confirm that it is actually in a store somewhere in Northern California. Magnolias in P.A. was mentioned here. I may have to call them - though they're an hour and a half drive south from me here in Napa.

Thanks!

"This was a Samsung Customer Rep I was talking too that told me that.
I have the 5674 preordered right now from TVA and they say they have
heard no such change. Hopefully they'll be in by end of this week. The
customer rep from Samsung also said that they stopped production to
fix some things with the tv and that's why it's pushed back to March;
however, any tvs out there already will be sold. I don't know how much
weight what he says holds, but I hope it's not true. He also said they
took the tvs off the website. I haven't checked yet to see if that's
true either."

This was mentioned in the "General HLP Issues and Questions" thread. I called 1-800-SAMSUNG this morning and the lady I talked to had no information to this effect. Has anyone else heard this? I know you get different info from different reps. If anyone else wants to call and post what they told hear, please do. I'm itchin' to get this set but don't want to buy it if there are issues and I definately don't want to wait until March.

Thanks,
Mike

Originally posted by dkyork
Had my Light engine replaced today on my HLP5063. The image is not crooked anymore, but the shadows and dark areas are green and HORRIBLE looking!!!! The techs said that the LE was newer and the digital board was old and had to have SM settings redone. Anyone heard of this or had this happen to them? The picture before the LE exchange was great, but my tv had the 3BL problem among other things. When I say the image is bad, I mean it's real bad!!!! All the shadowing looks grainy and colors shimmer. Did I get a bad LE? I don't get the 3BL problem anymore. :)

thanks,

Dale

I can't figure out how to do a double quote, but htwaits' reply to this sure looks like it explains this.
The same thing happened to me, my long story that I've put here too many times.
Suffice it to say I had Ja une HLP4663, with firmware in the low teens. The first LE replacement mid-September had all kinds of geometry problems. So the tech stood on his head with the second LE sent around Otober 20, and although he solved the rotation problems, the picture had the problems described.
Firmware.
The replacement set is dated OCtober, and the firmware is, IIRC, 33 ( I am not going in there again to confirm this and redo all my user settings again!)

So it seems now that if you get an LE repalcement months afetr the set was made the initial problem could be replaced by a new problem.

Samsung--hello??

Originally posted by zlindsay328
After getting a light engine/boards swap i started having a weird problem with lines appearing on my screen occasionally. The latest time was the 4th instance since Sept. Anyone else having this problem? What was done to resolve this issue by either Samsung or yourself? Seems like the only way to get them to go away is to power down the TV and then turn it back on....changing sources amongst other things has no effect.

This looks extremely similar to the pic I posted on the last page. Mine was also after a LE replacement 2 weeks ago. So far this has only happened once, but everyone in my household is on alert for it.

Originally posted by smahon
This looks extremely similar to the pic I posted on the last page. Mine was also after a LE replacement 2 weeks ago. So far this has only happened once, but everyone in my household is on alert for it.

yes definately similar. sorry to say that looks like yours is a little worse though. I dont have the wierd color issue or the horizontal lines...just vertical. Did you get the boards replaced at the same time or was this just a light engine? Trying to narrow down exactly which part is causing the problem since i had both swapped at same time.

Originally posted by ezryder
I have been waiting FOREVER for this unit to come out, but am now told it uses a 6 segment wheel...

That's correct but Samsung also claims better color processing firmware.

and is only 200:1 contrast ratio.

2,000:1

if it's like the 4663, I can't live with.

My understanding is that the horizontal viewing angle has been ~160 degrees from day one (HLM, HLN, HLP, and their competitors). If you didn't like the HLP4663 horizontal viewing angle then I'm not sure where you will find a RPTV with a better one.

[/b]Or is it just 100, like the 4663?[/b]

I think you have an incorrect or misprinted specification for the HLP4663.

Also, can someone confirm that it is actually in a store somewhere in Northern California. Magnolias in P.A. was mentioned here. I may have to call them - though they're an hour and a half drive south from me here in Napa.

There are closer Magnolia stores in Santa Rosa and Emeryville.

Here is a complete California list:

http://www.magnoliahifi.com/stores/bystate.asp

A salesman told be yesterday that they would have the HLP4674 displayed today in the Palo Alto store. Maybe?

Thanks for the reply on this. I had the 4663 and I can say that it was very defintely not 160 horizontally or vertically. Lying on the couch made the picture shadow - and it seemed it was less than 110 degrees, though it might have been right at 110. This is a deal killer for me, if this isn't fixed. The Mitsu 52525/72525 was MUCH better in every respect to the 4663 - and I would have loved to keep it - I had it for a month - but it didn't fit in the new armoire I bought. The armoire had to stay and the TV go back. :{

The 4674 is the only decent DLP OR plasma out there in 46" that will fit into the 42" opening I have. I'm hoping the viewing angle truly is 160.

Originally posted by ezryder
Thanks for the reply on this. I had the 4663 and I can say that it was very defintely not 160 horizontally or vertically. Lying on the couch made the picture shadow - and it seemed it was less than 110 degrees, though it might have been right at 110. This is a deal killer for me, if this isn't fixed. The Mitsu 52525/72525 was MUCH better in every respect to the 4663 - and I would have loved to keep it - I had it for a month - but it didn't fit in the new armoire I bought. The armoire had to stay and the TV go back. :{

The 4674 is the only decent DLP OR plasma out there in 46" that will fit into the 42" opening I have. I'm hoping the viewing angle truly is 160.

I can tell you for a fact, as I have the 4674, that the vertical viewing angle on this set is not great. If the TV will be significantly higher or lower than eye level, you will lose PQ.

As for horizontal viewing angle, I don't know of any TV's, direct view or not, where you would want to sit 160 degrees to one side. That's pretty extreme - almost directly on the side of the TV. I think 160 is the limit of where you will be able to see something, but it's a poor way to watch TV. Probably more of a marketing gimmick than anything.

And a bit OT, the 42" Panasonic plasmas (commercial version without side speakers) are less than 42" wide. It qualifies as more than decent. I believe there are several other plasma sets that would fit a 42" space.

A horizontal viewing angle of 160 degrees means 80 degrees in each direction from the center of the screen.

At 90 degrees the screen can't be seen at all so claiming 160 (80 left and 80 right) is marketing hype. Good quality viewing starts dropping off at ~50 degrees in either direction from center.

Vertical viewing angles are much much smaller. Most companies claim 30 degrees (15 up and 15 down from center).

All DLP, LCD, and LCoS TV sets have similar viewing angles. Plasma or LCD flat panel sets are the only way to improve on viewing angles.

Originally posted by dkyork
Had my Light engine replaced today on my HLP5063. The image is not crooked anymore, but the shadows and dark areas are green and HORRIBLE looking!!!! The techs said that the LE was newer and the digital board was old and had to have SM settings redone. Anyone heard of this or had this happen to them? The picture before the LE exchange was great, but my tv had the 3BL problem among other things. When I say the image is bad, I mean it's real bad!!!! All the shadowing looks grainy and colors shimmer. Did I get a bad LE? I don't get the 3BL problem anymore. :)

thanks,

Dale

My HLP5063 has been in the shop for more than a week now with a similar problem. After replacing the color wheel (noisy) all the shadows and dark areas turned purple and the image has deteriorated. Purple hair and purple suits???? I went to visit it the other day and the tech went into service mode and could change color setings but the purple tint was still there. That was actually the first thing that I did - adjust the color settings but no mater how I adjusted it, the purple tint stayed. The weird thing is all the other colors look good but anything that's brown to dark has that purple tint. He is in contact with Samsung and did mention about a software (maybe formware) upgrade.

Thanks, tjk - you saved me a trip. I had the 4663 and I know the viewing angle is not great - at least for me. My couch is about only 40 degrees off center, but also down about 15 degrees sitting up, and more lying down, and the PQ goes dark on me.

I did consider the 42" Panasonic plasma - and wanted one, but it wasn't available yet - the 7UY, ot something like that. I settled for a Hitachi 42" that is next-best rated by Consumer Reports - the 7UY was tops, but not by a lot. It is an EDTV and not HDTV, but I'm happy with it - except for the size. I really need a 46" TV for this particular room, as my wife needs to see it from about 25 feet away in the kitchen. It's good up to about 18 feet and then it gets a bit small. I'm, OK with it, but... I'd also prefer a 46" something. I guess it's not to be. Thanks again.

Originally posted by htwaits
A horizontal viewing angle of 160 degrees means 80 degrees in each direction from the center of the screen.

At 90 degrees the screen can't be seen at all so claiming 160 (80 left and 80 right) is marketing hype. Good quality viewing starts dropping off at ~50 degrees in either direction from center.



Yeah, that's what I meant. 180 degrees would be behind the screen:D .

I think they claim 160 because at 80 degrees to one side, you will see some proof that the TV is on. But from a practical standpoint, I agree that anything further than 50 degrees means a significant dropoff in PQ. I still would like to know who wants to sit 80 degrees to one side and watch TV.:confused:

Originally posted by ezryder
My couch is about only 40 degrees off center, but also down about 15 degrees sitting up, and more lying down, and the PQ goes dark on me.

It sounds like your problem is vertical not horizontal. Even at 15 degrees sitting up you are pushing the PQ to the edge. Some people have tilted their RPTV sets forward slightly to get closer to zero. That might work for you. I hope you let your wife get closer to the TV when you watch movies. ;)

Originally posted by zlindsay328
yes definately similar. sorry to say that looks like yours is a little worse though. I dont have the wierd color issue or the horizontal lines...just vertical. Did you get the boards replaced at the same time or was this just a light engine? Trying to narrow down exactly which part is causing the problem since i had both swapped at same time.

Mine was just the LE. Never saw this happen in the 2 months before that.

Originally posted by htwaits
It sounds like your problem is vertical not horizontal. Even at 15 degrees sitting up you are pushing the PQ to the edge. Some people have tilted their RPTV sets forward slightly to get closer to zero. That might work for you. I hope you let your wife get closer to the TV when you watch movies. ;)

Yeah, I think it's both. I figure about 15 vert and 45-50 horiz, so I'm screwed either way. I think I'm resigned to the 42" plasma - which, by the way, is very nice. I like being able to walk up to the screen while changing channels, or something, and not have the picture go all weird on me. It's EDTV, but they do some sort of sampling and all that, so really even SD channels look great. I'm no TV-aholic or all that demanding on the PQ. It's better than my 36" Panny flat screen tube, and weighs less than half of what it weighs. Also, the Hitachi cost me $2900 at CC - the 4674 is something like $3500 at Magnolia. (yeah, it's bigger though). I'll stick with the plasma, for now. Maybe in a few years someone will wake up to the fact that there are a lot of entertainment centers out there that are 42-43" wide and if you don't stick the d@mn speakers on the sides then you can fit a 46" TV in there and get more out of it. Plasma, DLP, I don't care, as long as I can maximze screen size for the area I have and still have good PQ and viewing angle. Not too much to ask, is it?

Originally posted by fd7203
My HLP5063 has been in the shop for more than a week now with a similar problem. After replacing the color wheel (noisy) all the shadows and dark areas turned purple and the image has deteriorated. Purple hair and purple suits???? I went to visit it the other day and the tech went into service mode and could change color setings but the purple tint was still there. That was actually the first thing that I did - adjust the color settings but no mater how I adjusted it, the purple tint stayed. The weird thing is all the other colors look good but anything that's brown to dark has that purple tint. He is in contact with Samsung and did mention about a software (maybe formware) upgrade.

I took my tv back to CC and exchanged it for another. This tv is amazing when it works 100%. CC has the 5063 for dirt cheap right now and they threw in a free xbox with 2 games. I wish you good luck on your tv, it's very saddening and frustrating when it's like that. Sounds like they gave you a bad color wheel? If it was fine before that, then that has to be it. I wonder if my new LE they put in had a crap color wheel on it. hmmm. Let us know how they fix it.

Dale

For the vertical viewing angle on these sets, ideally your eye level should be at or near the center of the screen vertically. Depending on your distance from the set, the angle to the top and bottom of the screen will change - the closer you sit (and the bigger the TV), the more change there will be in brightness (I say brightness, not PQ). The center of the TV will be maximum brightness, and it will get slightly darker towards the top and bottom, depending on how close you are. If your eye level is at the bottom of the screen, that will appear at maximum brightness, and it will get darker towards the top of the screen.

I am real close to pulling the trigger on the 5063. Last night (Wed.) I charted prices and deals at two on line and two B&Ms. This morning noticed that the two B&Ms, both who have double letters, dropped prices $300.00.
Tomorrow should see me order it. The Wife says "Finally".

Originally posted by Mike Lanzarotta
I am real close to pulling the trigger on the 5063. Last night (Wed.) I charted prices and deals at two on line and two B&Ms. This morning noticed that the two B&Ms, both who have double letters, dropped prices $300.00.
Tomorrow should see me order it. The Wife says "Finally".

I exchanged my 5063 I bought 2 weeks or so ago at CC today and got a free xbox because of the special. What's cool is I bought the tv open box for 2800 at first, but the sale you're talking about let me have a brand new tv for little difference....... with the free xbox. :) HALO 2 in 720pm here I come!

Dale

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dkyork
[B]I exchanged my 5063 I bought 2 weeks or so ago at CC today and got a free xbox because of the special. What's cool is I bought the tv open box for 2800 at first, but the sale you're talking about let me have a brand new tv for little difference....... with the free xbox. :) HALO 2 in 720pm here I come!



Sorry Halo 2 is only 480P

Yeah, it will be upconverted to 720p but the resolution of the game is 480p. I think most all xbox games are 480p. I think there are only a handful that are 720p and I only know of one that is 1080i (dragon's lair) and I read dragon's lair doesn't even look that good.

Either way, I'm sure Halo 2 will look incredible!

Originally posted by mchuckp
Yeah, it will be upconverted to 720p but the resolution of the game is 480p. I think most all xbox games are 480p. I think there are only a handful that are 720p and I only know of one that is 1080i (dragon's lair) and I read dragon's lair doesn't even look that good.

Either way, I'm sure Halo 2 will look incredible!

It is incredible. :)

Blank Screen Problem

I'm not sure if this is the 3BL issue people have been talking about.

I have an HLP5063 / July build since August. I have the Comcast 6208 HD DVR connected directly with DVI for video and L/R audio to TV and an optical to a receiver. Also Xbox through component and Optical to receiver.

While watching TV, the screen all of a sudden goes blank. However the audio is still there, coming from the TV and receiver. As a fix, I would the just power off with the remote, wait 30 seconds and turn it back on with no problems for weeks. Since Sept. This has happened three times.

The third time was yesterday. So instead of just turning it off/on from remote, I unplugged it from the surge protector for about 15 minutes then plugged it back in. Works fine now.

There were no blinking lights anywhere, in fact you could still see the bulb lit in the back of the set while the the screen was blank. The only time the lights blinked was when I turn it on during its normal booting process.

I love this set, it has actually exceeded my expectations being a first time HD owner. I called Samsung, but they were no help.

I was just wondering if this problem is the same as the 3BL issue or is it something else.

Any comments are appreciated.

Kessaby

This does not appear to be the 3BL problem, although the fix may turn out to be the same. The 3BL manifests itself when you first turn on the set, the bulb will not light, although the audio is on. The set then turns off automatically, attempts to restart and the same repeats itself until the set gives up and flashes 3 lights continuously.

I seem to remember someone mentioning this problem before, but I couldn't find it.
Last night I turned on my 5663 and the screen had vertical red lines running through it. I tried changing the source but the same image remained on the screen. The red lines were about 1 inch in width and occurred about every 2-3 inches across the screen. The picture that I could see was messed up as well. I turned off the set, waited about 30 sec, and turned it back on, and everything is fine now. Anyone else experience this? I forgot to snap a pic of it, but I will if it happens again.

Thanks for the explanation smahon.

The set definitely has no problems powering up, so far.... I guess the problem could be with the DVI port either on the TV or compass's STB.

I guess time will tel...

Has anyone else experience a similar problem??

Thanks,
Kessaby

Originally posted by Kessaby
I called Samsung, but they were no help.
Can you explain what you mean by "no help"?

Originally posted by jdiff
I seem to remember someone mentioning this problem before, but I couldn't find it.
Last night I turned on my 5663 and the screen had vertical red lines running through it. I tried changing the source but the same image remained on the screen. The red lines were about 1 inch in width and occurred about every 2-3 inches across the screen. The picture that I could see was messed up as well. I turned off the set, waited about 30 sec, and turned it back on, and everything is fine now. Anyone else experience this? I forgot to snap a pic of it, but I will if it happens again.

That was me that made the previous red line post. No one offered any feedback.

On the plus side it only happened once. I did as you did (off and then back on) and have not ever had it happen again.

Other than that I've had trouble free viewing with my Power Buy purchase.

I would like to know if there are many others out there that have ahd this happen.

Just curious.

htwaits,

I spoke with a rep at technical support this morning and the guy I was speaking to did not offer me any form of explanation for the problem. He said that it was probably a glitch or something.

I asked him if it could be the DVI ported and he plainly said that I could try to reverse the ends of the DVI cable from the STB to the TV - TV to STB.
Then I asked him what that would do? He said, probably nothing but it's worth a try.

I asked him about the 3BL problem and he did not know anything about it. He quoted me the explanation of the light sequences from the manual.

He could not tell me the symptoms in the simplest form as smahon very clearly explained.

Thanks for asking,
Kessaby

When you call, they are supposed to get you a number so you can call a different "servicing" number to get an appointment. If the last rep didn't think there was a real problem, call again and talk to another rep (tell the new one about how the first one was no help - helps if you know the guy's name too).

Originally posted by Kessaby
Has anyone else experience a similar problem??

Possibly.

I have a Motorola 6200 STB with Camcast cable service. There are times when the TV screen will go dark watching both digital HD and SD programs. The audio is still on and the image has come back with channel changes.

The STB has DVI out which is connected to the HDMI input on the TV. I've never seen this with my HTPC through the DVI port or our DVD player through component one.

I would start by suspecting the STB.

Originally posted by Kessaby
Thanks for asking,

You're welcome.

The first level of customer support just isn't capable of diagnosing any problem. What cyberbri suggested is the way to go if your problem is repeatable.

Even if it's not repeatable on demand a good service rep could figure out what is wrong from your description.

Have you tried changing channels when a black out happens? I would try going from the DTV channels to the analog channels and then back to the original channel. I haven't tried it yet but turning the STB off and then back on might work better than turning the TV off and then on.

My case sounds like yours, but I feel very confident that it's a STB/Comcast/source problem.

I would be very surprised if it was the cable or the DVI port. It seems to me that if they were to blame turning the set on and off wouldn't help.

On at least one occasion I got a "sorry the signal will return shortly" message.

When my screen went blank the first and second time, I got nervous or just didn't want to discover that the TV was faulty.

My first actions were to immediately shut down the STB, the receiver and the TV. Then after about 30 seconds powered everything back up again. That did the trick.

The third time, (yesterday) when the screen went blank I tried to change the channel on the STB using the up / down key on the remote. There was still no picture. I didn't get far enough to hit the analog stations. I then powered everything down and unplugged the TV. 15 minutes later powered everything back up and was up running for at least 6 hours with no problems.

If it happens again I will take more steps trying different things to get the picture back up without restarting the set.

At this time, I really don't want a tech to come out replacing components from the TV if the problem might be in the STB in the first place.

Other than that, everything works flawlessly. XBOX, DVD, STB (HD-DVR). However I did have the stains on the sides of the screen which eventually went away.

I can't be happier with my purchase. I owe it all to everyone in this forum. since March, I've spent countless hours here narrowing down my options to finally make a decision.

I appreciate everyone's opinions and suggestions.

Kessaby

My humble opinion (as someone who literally spends 14 plus hours a day in PC related activities)....

Firefox, when configured properly, absolutely rocks.

-Shawn

I have a Sammy HLP 5663. My DVD player is connected to the DVI input and the audio out from the DVD player is connected to the single set of "audio in" RCA jacks on the TV.

My Comcast STB has a DVI out and I want to use a DVI --> HDMI cable to attach the Comcast STB to the HDMI port on the TV...

My question is this:

Do I need to use a "Y Adapter" to get the audio signal from the STB AND the DVD player into the single set of "audio in" RCA jacks on the TV? Or is there a more elegant solution?


Thanks in advance for the reply! This forum is a phenomenal resource.

I had the screen blank out on me several times on my 6163. Samsung came out and replaced the digital board. The previous version was a 2. something and the newer board is a 3. something. My wife and I immediately noticed an improvement in the picture quality and detail. I am not sure if the picture equals the 85 series but it was a big improvement.
I have not experienced the video drop out since. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Originally posted by chronow1
I have a Sammy HLP 5663. My DVD player is connected to the DVI input and the audio out from the DVD player is connected to the single set of "audio in" RCA jacks on the TV.

My Comcast STB has a DVI out and I want to use a DVI --> HDMI cable to attach the Comcast STB to the HDMI port on the TV...

My question is this:

Do I need to use a "Y Adapter" to get the audio signal from the STB AND the DVD player into the single set of "audio in" RCA jacks on the TV? Or is there a more elegant solution?


Thanks in advance for the reply! This forum is a phenomenal resource.

Won't work - when you select HDMI as the source, the picture from the STB will show. Since HDMI carries audio, the TV will be looking for audio from the component it's connected to, and since the DVI port on your STB will not send out audio signals, you won't get any.

You don't have an external receiver?

Reply to Kesseby, who wrote: "I have an HLP5063 / July build since August. I have the Comcast 6208 HD DVR connected directly with DVI for video and L/R audio to TV and an optical to a receiver. Also Xbox through component and Optical to receiver."

I had the same issue with our HLP4663. Ask Comcast to send the reload signal that makes the unintelligble symbols appear in the box display a little while after the signal is received. You may have to try a couple diferent times in order to get a phone rep who knows the procedure. You may have to unplug the box after the signal comes. I waited 40 minutes to do that. That fixed my box. I had to remove my splitter to get a clear transmission (I used to split the cable so as to have basic CATV going into the main antenna lead on our TV set while also having the channels via the DVI).

I read on these forums (fora?) that this may the copy protection handshake acting badly.

Originally posted by Fedreams
I had the screen blank out on me several times on my 6163. Samsung came out and replaced the digital board. The previous version was a 2. something and the newer board is a 3. something. My wife and I immediately noticed an improvement in the picture quality and detail. I am not sure if the picture equals the 85 series but it was a big improvement.
I have not experienced the video drop out since. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I had a June build HLP6163 that was unrepairable so Samsung just sent me a Oct build dated unit and I cannot believe how much better the PQ is...like night and day...sharper with more detail...much better color! Very happy with this new set.

Originally posted by mchuckp
Yeah, it will be upconverted to 720p but the resolution of the game is 480p. I think most all xbox games are 480p. I think there are only a handful that are 720p and I only know of one that is 1080i (dragon's lair) and I read dragon's lair doesn't even look that good.

Either way, I'm sure Halo 2 will look incredible!

MX Unleashed is 1080i, and a great game.

Originally posted by tjk
Won't work - when you select HDMI as the source, the picture from the STB will show. Since HDMI carries audio, the TV will be looking for audio from the component it's connected to, and since the DVI port on your STB will not send out audio signals, you won't get any.

You don't have an external receiver?

Nope...for now I'm just using the TV's speakers...no surround setup or external reciever...

htwaits...you've got your STB set up exactly the way I want to...how are you getting audio into the TV??

Is the only way to do this is by using a receiver for all audio...no?

-GC

When I use the DVI to DVI connection, the screen size while viewing the analog channels reduces to what looks like 4:3 instead of stretching the picture and filling the entire screen, even on the ‘wide’ TV setting. The same is true when using the component cables. When I use the S video or composite cables the screen is stretched? Is this a STB issues or a TV setting?
I have a HLP5063W and a Comcast Motorola 6208 STB.
Thanks

i had a question, i had my 5063w hooked up to my cable box through component cables( its the motorolla box from comcast) and i could stretch the pic to fill the screen while watching tv. now i have it hooked up through dvi which does have a little better pic, however i cant strech the pic anymore. is this normal. when watching non-hd programs im willing to sacrifice pq to fill the screen but is it possible with the dvi connection?

Originally posted by chronow1
htwaits...you've got your STB set up exactly the way I want to...how are you getting audio into the TV??

Is the only way to do this is by using a receiver for all audio...no?

Our A/V receiver has three digital inputs for audio. I have our DVD player, the HTPC, and the STB all connected to the A/V receiver. We don't use the TV's speakers.

Originally posted by Fedreams
I had the screen blank out on me several times on my 6163. Samsung came out and replaced the digital board. The previous version was a 2. something and the newer board is a 3. something. My wife and I immediately noticed an improvement in the picture quality and detail. I am not sure if the picture equals the 85 series but it was a big improvement.
I have not experienced the video drop out since. Keeping my fingers crossed.

If there is that much of an improvement as you guys say, I would love to see how your SM settings compare to the ones I posted for the 1028. If interested in sharing, take a look at the spreadsheet in this thread.

HLP SM Settings Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=436590&perpage=20&highlight=setting&pagenumber=2)

Reply michaelhudock re no option to set picture mode on stretch, panorama or zoom on an HLP when watching via DVI.

DVI has a much better HD picture IMO, but you only have the wide and 4:3 settings to choose from. A 4663 is the same way.

Originally posted by crbierman
When I use the DVI to DVI connection, the screen size while viewing the analog channels reduces to what looks like 4:3 instead of stretching the picture and filling the entire screen, even on the ‘wide’ TV setting. The same is true when using the component cables. When I use the S video or composite cables the screen is stretched? Is this a STB issues or a TV setting?
I have a HLP5063W and a Comcast Motorola 6208 STB.
Thanks
Originally posted by michaelhudock
i had a question, i had my 5063w hooked up to my cable box through component cables( its the motorolla box from comcast) and i could stretch the pic to fill the screen while watching tv. now i have it hooked up through dvi which does have a little better pic, however i cant strech the pic anymore. is this normal. when watching non-hd programs im willing to sacrifice pq to fill the screen but is it possible with the dvi connection?


I think, when using the DVI or HDMI connection you cannot select stretch modes. The TV assumes you can adjust the equipment sending the signal to suit your needs. I don't know if you can set your STB to stretch the pic.

You should be able to select stretch modes using Component, S-Video, or Composite video. One possible workaround is to hook up your STB with both DVI and component (or s-video) then you can switch inputs depending on what you're watching and whether you need to stretch it. I haven't done this so I can't confirm it will work, but it seems like it should.

Reply to crbierman, who wrote: "When I use the DVI to DVI connection, the screen size while viewing the analog channels reduces to what looks like 4:3 instead of stretching the picture and filling the entire screen, even on the ‘wide’ TV setting...."

I noticed that the default setup on a 6208 box has a setting called "4:3 override." Maybe that's why this occurs/

According to Samsung, DLP's do not suffer from screen burn. So why stretch the picture? The poor actors and anchorpeople already look 10 pounds heavier on TV as it is.

My 17 inch Dell LCD monitor (which has a tuner and serves as the TV for our camper - it is non-HD), has a mode called "nonlinear scaling." It makes a stretched picture look great without the funny side of the screen effects that can be seen in "panorama" mode on an HLP. I wish the HLP had an option like it. It may be that more messing around with the picture is possible in an analog transfer such as the component cables provide. Maybe with a pure digital picture that you get via DVI, there is just no means to mess with the picture the way you can with analog. But in DVI I think the HD picture looks much crisper and the colors more vibrant.

Originally posted by zlindsay328
If there is that much of an improvement as you guys say, I would love to see how your SM settings compare to the ones I posted for the 1028. If interested in sharing, take a look at the spreadsheet in this thread.

HLP SM Settings Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=436590&perpage=20&highlight=setting&pagenumber=2)

I have not changed any of the SM setting, so they are straight from the factory. I am waiting for a few more hours on my new board then I will probably start playing with them.

I just purchased a Samsung H-LP4663WX. I already have Avia and have DVE on the way. I will be hooking up a Panny S97S upconverting DVD player via HDMI and a Comcast Motorola 6412 2 tuner HDTV DVR via DVI.

Questions:

1. How much should I use the TV (to break in the bulb and light engine) before attempting any real calibration? I heard 100-150 hours and then a 30 minute warm up before doing the calibration?

2. Do you guys do seperate calibrations under different custom picture settings for your DVD player versus your HDTV source? What about for daytime viewing vs. nighttime?

3. I see many of you talking about your firmware and when your tv was built. Where can you find this? Is there a FAQ showing how to bring up hidden menus? Can you do damage tinkering around with these?

4. Any secret "Sammy HLP xx63 series" tricks I should know about from day 1 for getting better pictures etc.?

Thanks for what I am sure will be a set of incredible answers... I can't put the TV on the stand until Monday night since I have to haul away a 36 inch TV but I did turn the new TV on last night on the floor and played Halo 2 in widescreen and used the awful Xbox 480i DVD signal to play a few DVDs which already looked incredible (but shimmery do to no progressive scan and the general sad state of the unit... I can't wait to hook up my HDMI Panny S97!)

Thanks again...

Dave

Originally posted by Fedreams
I have not changed any of the SM setting, so they are straight from the factory. I am waiting for a few more hours on my new board then I will probably start playing with them.

I was just curious about what your defaults from the factory are, compared to mine, since your picture has improved so much with the new firmware.

I'm sure alot of people here (myself included) would love to analyze the differences and try to get an even better picture out of their sets.

Don't worry about making "calibration" adjustments before your bulb has settled in.

1) You can always touch it up later if something changes, you aren't going to hurt anything.
2) The only thing that should change is the light output and the color temperature. Unless you are calibrating the color temperature with instrumentation, there isn't anything you would have to do over later.

For Motorola STBs (Comcast, etc.), you have to turn the override on.

If you have the override off, it will up-convert the standard non-HD signals to the main output resolution (480p, 720p, 1080i), meaning that it adds black bars to the sides.

Turn the Override to 480p to output all non-HD signals to 480p, so you can view then in 4:3 or stretch them to full screen on your own.

And with these boxes, I suggest leaving output on 1080i and just change it, if you feel the need, for ABC broadcasts. Most HD broadcasts (NBC, CBS, the INHD channels, etc.) is in 1080i, while ABC is in 720p. I think there is another channel (Fox HD?) that broadcasts in 720p as well, but we don't get it here. Some STBs allow a pass-through for HD signals, to pass the signal through untouched. But these Motorola boxes don't.

Under my current situation, I would be viewing the TV about 4-6 feet away from the set on my couch. The way my room is set up, it's the farthest away I can get. Someone on here a few posts back mentioned noticing picture distortion under similar conditions because in essence the viewing angle is severe when you that close and laying down or off to the side of the couch or whatnot. This really concerns me, should it?

PS: I have begun looking into alternatives. Namely a 34" Direct-View set, but I really want a set in the 40-46" range so 2.35:1 material won't be so damned small.

Originally posted by beckmen
PS: I have begun looking into alternatives. Namely a 34" Direct-View set, but I really want a set in the 40-46" range so 2.35:1 material won't be so damned small.
How can anything look small at 4'?

If cost isn't a problem the 37" LCD panel that Sharp makes would probably look good at that distance.

I don't think I would want to sit 6' from a RPTV. Have you tried it?

Originally posted by beckmen
Under my current situation, I would be viewing the TV about 4-6 feet away from the set on my couch.

IMHO 4 to 6 feet is too close for that size screen. I just turned on my 50 inch HLP and sat at the distance you describe. The imperfections are MUCH more obvious and annoying at that distance. Even on the HiDef channels there is still a lot of "low" def material being sent. I recommend that you spend a LOT of time at electronics stores standing in front of the TV's at the distance you will watching from at home before you make a final decision.

A nice 30" ws crt might be nice at that distance.

But if you go ws, 4:3 material is going to be smaller. Go 4:3, and letterboxed ws is going to be smaller. It's a trade-off.

Yes, I think Arun's rule of thumb for HD (2Xdiagonal is about as close as one should be for optimal viewing) is still the best simple guide. Therefore for 6ft viewing distance, a 36" tv is about as large as one should go, and then a good direct view CRT i(sony?) s probably the best.

My HLP6163 is on a truck within miles of my house and should be here any time. This may sound silly, but I am actually looking forward to soon be able to post any possible issues and questions myself (besides "where the %$^# is my TV??).

Cyberbri- your Ikea setup went over great with the future better half. We are driving by Ikea in Potomac Mills next week for our T-Giving trek and will be pickin a similar unit up. Debating whether to use my Sammy stand (not yet arrived) or the Ikea one as you did for the TV itself.

Originally posted by AlanBuck
All the Samsungs I have seen in stores, plus the 50 inch HLP I had at home for a while show a noticeable bowing of the black bars at the sides of the pic on 4:3 mode...it is optical distortion, and seems normal for these sets.
My wife and I have noticed this also. In addition, we see bowing with the top and bottom edges during 2.35:1 widescreen playback, and curved vertical lines during any widescreen playback.

We started looking at the 5085 because we weren't happy with the black and shadow detail on the Sony xs955 LCDs and the various issues being reported (and what we have observed) with the Hitachi vs810 and vx915 LCDs.

The 5085 is very good in dark scenes and can be dialed in for very accurate color output, but the geometry issues are annoying. It's too bad something like the DVDO products can't adjust the video playback to "trick" the 5085 into displaying straighter lines.

Michael

I am horrible at guessing distances, but the distance from my face to the screen on my couch is probably closer to 5 feet. The thing is, I have a 27" 4:3 TV right now, so anything Widescreen under 34" will bee in essence "shorter" vertically than my current TV, and I want a noticable size differance. I mean, when I watch 2.35:1 material the image is quite small. I have even given up on zooming to "shrink" mode to eliminate over-scan since the image shrinks even more on 2.35:1. I should be more reasonable, though. Under the current living situations, a 34" WS TV would be more than big enough. I can just move the couch a few inches closer when viewing higher AR material, hence making the screen LOOK bigger. But I still would like to look into my options.

I have heard LCD Flat-Panels have bad motion blur. I was looking into a 42" AQOUS (I am not sure on the size) for a while until I heard that and was scared off.

I do need to get to a electronics store. There's only one in my area, and they mostly have RPTVs and Plasma last I checked. Best Buy and places like that are a good hour away, and I don't even have a car. Not only that, but also in-store diaplays are crap. They tend to show HD material with the signal split a million times, and the lighting of the places are go crazy. I don't trust those places.

Depending on how much money I end up with, I will be able to broaden my alternitives. If I have around $10,000 I will go with the 34", but if it's more like 50,000 I will get my own place for a while and be able to do a 50"+ DLP set set up the proper distance away from my couch.

The wait continues, though. I keep myself sane by doing this research and stuff, though.

Reply to beckmen: If you're five feet from the TV then you could look into a top of the line 34 inch Sony CRT, if you don't mind the weight of an old fashioned CRT. You probably can get the one with the built in HD tuner for at least $500 less than this week's sale price at CC on an HLP 4663. I am 12 feet away and almost got one (my wife talked into getting a 46 inch. Boy was I a happy shopper.) Someone wrote in these forums that you need 12 feet distance from a DLP type set at 46 or 50 inches. I agree with that. The picture is good from at minimum 12 feet but close up it is blurry.

Originally posted by moelawn
Someone wrote in these forums that you need 12 feet distance from a DLP type set at 46 or 50 inches.
Someone is always writing something. ;)

There are a lot of people very happy to watch their 61" sets from ~12 feet. Don't confuse what makes you happy with some kind of guideline from "someone".

Originally posted by htwaits
There are a lot of people very happy to watch their 61" sets from ~12 feet. Don't confuse what makes you happy with some kind of guideline from "someone".

Personally, I don't think that the "Twice the diagonal" rule really applies to the newer Samsung DLP's. The pixelation on the DLP's is nowhere near that of most plasma's and CRT's, IMHO.
With that being said, I believe that you can go bigger than the rule if you're going to go with a DLP. If you go too big then the concern would be neck and eye strain, as if watching a tennis match.
My advice would be to spend at least 30 minutes seated in front of your DLP of choice, varying the distance from the set until your eyes or neck start to move too much for your liking.
My opinion anyhow.

FYI, I will be viewing a HLP 5674 from about 108"-112", give or take.

Regards,
Frank

Originally posted by Flyrx7
FYI, I will be viewing a HLP 5674 from about 108"-112", give or take.
That works for me. Last year I spent an hour watching a HLN567 to be sure it wasn't uncomfortable at 9'. I didn't want to be constantly moving my eyes to see everything. I thought it was fine at that distance. Our 50" screen is also fine from the same distance. I think a 61" screen would need two or three feet further back for me.

My 2-cents:

I'm viewing my 5063 from ~8 ft. and it seems ideal (in fact, I find myself wondering what the 5663 would have been like from this distance...).

I'm sure this link has been posted before, but for those interested in the geometry of all this:

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

Have had a 6163 since August and watch from ~ 10 ft. Can't imagine anything smaller!

The Sony XBR set (which seems more or less the best 34" Direct-View out there) goes for around 2,200...the HLP 4663 goes for around 3,000.

I am now happy with the idea of a 34" WS TV in my current situation. But now I am thinking of going bigger if I get my own place...56 or 61...hmmmm....

Beckman,

FYI: You can easily find a 4663 for much less than $3000 if that is your concern. Just call TVA or wheel and deal with a local store. However, 5 ft. away from a 46" screen seems awfully close.

I would be very wary of getting a DLP if you are only going to be 5' away. It may be acceptable with HD material but any SD material you will find looks horrible that close.
I have a HLP5063 which is about 9-10 feet from our couch, that's a little too close for SD. Our dining table is 13-14' away and SD looks great at that distance. One caveat is that we have DirecTV so you really notice the compression on SD, probably the same problem with digital cable too.
If you go to a store make sure they can flick over to a non-HD channel to check out the difference. Probably 50% of the programs we watch are still in SD [Comedy Central, FX, etc].

No HDTV for me. It hasn't penetrated the market enough yet. I will be sticking to SDTV and DVDs with an upscaling player or something along those lines. I am sure it will look fine on the XBR, though.

Like I said, if I end up with enough to get my own place for a while...I will invest in a larger DLP set and sti around 8-10' away.

Hi all,

Can someone post numbers for their display settings? I won't have time to do the calibration myself probably until Thanksgiving weekend, but I would like to get close at least.

I assume there will be some variance between the sets and between people's eyes, but I would hope that the settings would be within 1 or 2 clicks apart for the TV.

Thanks,
J.

Reply to Beckman re 34-inch HD CRT's.

Sometimes the Sony is on sale for less than the amount you mentioned at C.C.

jimhong12: On my hlp 6163, my DVE comes up with Contrast = 90 to 95, Brightness = 50 to 60, Sharpness = 0 (or anything, it doesn't seem to matter), and Color = 45 to 55. This is with Cinema setting, and with HDMI connection to a Denon 2910. These are also the settings I had come up with on my DVI connection to a Moto 6200 stb to COMCAST. Hope this helps you get started.

I have reported in the past here that my picture took a reddish tint. This has happened soon after i had my color wheel replaced..now I have noticed on 2 more occasions that when I turn my hlp50 on the colors have a reddish tone that I seem to remedy by turning the TV off for a moment and turning it back on again...
has anyone else had the red screen like me??

mac

Originally posted by macavitti
I have reported in the past here that my picture took a reddish tint. This has happened soon after i had my color wheel replaced..now I have noticed on 2 more occasions that when I turn my hlp50 on the colors have a reddish tone that I seem to remedy by turning the TV off for a moment and turning it back on again...
has anyone else had the red screen like me??

mac I had a major problem with red faces/skin tones on my hlp61"...it was the digital board...Samsung replaced my set and everything is perfect.

Originally posted by millerwill
On my hlp 6163, my DVE comes up with Contrast = 90 to 95, Brightness = 50 to 60, Sharpness = 0 (or anything, it doesn't seem to matter), and Color = 45 to 55. This is with Cinema setting, and with HDMI connection to a Denon 2910.
With my setup (5063 to 2910 via HDMI) and using DVE, I have to set the Brightness down to 38 in order for the outer bars on the PLUGE pattern to just blend into the background. I keep wondering if I'm mis-interpreting DVE somehow or doing the testing incorrectly, since every instance of one's Brightness settings I've seen posted always has it in the 50-60 range.

The Contrast, Color and Sharpness (such as it is) all jibe with what you report. I just don't understand the huge difference I'm getting in Brightness.

BTW, the gamma setting on the 5063 is at the factory default of 2, and the black levels are not set to Enhanced on the 2910, if this is significant here.

Originally posted by macavitti
I have reported in the past here that my picture took a reddish tint. This has happened soon after i had my color wheel replaced..now I have noticed on 2 more occasions that when I turn my hlp50 on the colors have a reddish tone that I seem to remedy by turning the TV off for a moment and turning it back on again...
has anyone else had the red screen like me??

mac

I have also noticed this problem since getting my boards and light engine swapped. I find that in addition to turning off the set, changing between the sources a couple times works as well, this way you dont have to turn the set off and on again.

well, after weeks of going to various stores to compare the sony and the sammy side by side (that's the two we narrowed it down to - the mitsu just didn't seem to compete with these two and the black laquer look wouldn't work for us anyway), it seems the little lady who'll be watching it with me sees the screen door so much on the sony that she truly just could not stand to have it, so my decision just became that much easier. I'm a bit disapointed that I won't get an internal hd decoder with the sammy, but can't say I'm at all dissapointed with PQ, color etc. I was basically at the coin toss stage and was only leaning toward the sony because of the decoder. I also like the speakers being under the sammy screen better than on the sides - realistically it will run through surround sound so who needs the speakers anyway?

So, here's my questions for this forum, I'll likely by the HLP 6163 from either Circuit City, Best Buy or Sears as they'll all match price, do no interest financing and the like.

1. Is there any way for me to check the build date on the set i'm getting before it gets to my house - I mean, is the date stamped on it or the box someplace? It sounds to me like I should be hoping for a set built in October from everyone's problems/results/fixes on this board.

2. I'll obviously get the extended warranty on the set, but is any of Sears, Circuit City or Best Buy better in that respect than the others?


Thanks for all the help. I hope (and pray) that I can come back to this board next month and tell you all how wonderful the set is and how happy I am with it.

Mike - When getting the warrenty make sure you find out if they replace the bulb, I got 8 different stories from Best Buy and decided not to go with them because no one could give me a strait answer. Circuit City Protection Plan sounded like it was pretty comprehensive but you get what you pay for, it was at least 200 more than Best Buys. Im not sure of your location, but I got my Sammy from Abt, a local Chicagoland retailer, they met a reasonable online price, free shipping and a great warrenty. Also, 2 weeks later another online retailer offered a 300 gift card with the purchase, I called ABT and they had no problem giving 300 bones for my new Sony DVD player.

Oh, and on another point, I wouldnt stress that built in HD tuner, you'd have better results going with a standalone unit anyway.

As for the build date, Im not sure about this one, when Abt dropped off my set they unboxed it outside and brought the set in. I havent had one problem with it, I love it and I want to marry it ;)

Originally posted by mike67
1. Is there any way for me to check the build date on the set i'm getting before it gets to my house - I mean, is the date stamped on it or the box someplace? It sounds to me like I should be hoping for a set built in October from everyone's problems/results/fixes on this board.

I think the Samsung sets have the build date and country (Korea or Mexico) on a label on the box.

2. I'll obviously get the extended warranty on the set, but is any of Sears, Circuit City or Best Buy better in that respect than the others?

Keep in mind that if you buy from Sears then they handle all issues involving the set. Samsung doesn't get involved.

As for Best Buy, they are supposed of offer bulb replacement in their new extended warranties. So does CC. I would get clarification in writing with either one if you want to know for sure what each warranty covers. Samsung covers the bulb during their warranty but I don't know what that would mean if you buy from Sears.

Samsung extends their warranty three months if you register on line.

If you think 4' is close, you should have seen my OLD room. I had a 27" TV still, but I was like 3' away probably. Just enough room to walk in-between the dresser the TV sat on and the couch.

Well, thanks for all the help, though. I really appreicate it.

I'm awaiting a video card with a DVI connector to try and get my PC to play some games without any overscan/underscan issues on a 4663. It looks like the latest nvidia beta drivers have a few features to address overscan/underscan over a DVI connection.

Here's a question: this is my second 4663, on the first one I had when in 'Wide PC' mode there were icons under 'Wide PC' and I could use the arrow keys on the remote to stretch the image vertically and horizontally, just as you would on a PC monitor. I was able to pretty much get the image to fill the screen without skewing it too much. On my new unit, that option is not available anywhere. A DLP Product Specialist told me that if that option was on my first set, it shouldn't have been (?), and that "someone at the factory may have turned that on in the service menu". Sounds kinda fishy to me. I'm thinking my first set was a later build and maybe newer firmware? I didn't check the date, but the set I have now was built in August. I'll check the firmware version when I get home.

So...is anyone with a PC connected able to stretch the picture horizontally and vertically in Wide PC mode?

I also have the "smudges" that haven't gone away in two weeks. Wondering if I should send this one back too and ask specifically for an October build...

My understanding is that if you hook it up with the VGA input you have those options, but not necessarily with the DVI input.

But, Samsung seems to change firmware revisions on a whim and who knows what they may have changed from week to week!

Beckman, check out C.C. this week re the HLP 4663. The sale probably ends this Sat. Nov. 20. 18 months free interest, too, is in effect I believe. Be sure to read the fine print for their free interest deals. You have to pay enough each month to pay it off in the 18 months. And if you pay a bill for something else that you charge on that card then or later, you have to call and tell them to allocate that payment to the something else. All payments are allocated first to the free interest purchase, even the payments in excess of the amount needed for that month for the TV purchase and they will charge their ridiculous interest rate (16% !) for the something else that they didn't allocate the payment toward.

They will include a maintenance plan in the 18 months free interest deal but not cables and stuff that you buy. But if you can get this right it's a great deal. They had 24 months in effect when I bought our 4663 and I am paying $136 per month for it over 24 months. Not bad. It's 18 months now not 24 but the price of this TV has dropped.

mike67, a date appears on the back of our 4663, so I guess a 6163 also has the date label. Ours has a date of Aug 04 which I guess in pretty late in the model run for the HLP sets and after 90+ days of watching far too much TV we have had no problems with this set except that we are watching far too much TV.

Originally posted by mike67
well, after weeks of going to various stores to compare the sony and the sammy side by side (that's the two we narrowed it down to - the mitsu just didn't seem to compete with these two and the black laquer look wouldn't work for us anyway), it seems the little lady who'll be watching it with me sees the screen door so much on the sony that she truly just could not stand to have it, so my decision just became that much easier. I'm a bit disapointed that I won't get an internal hd decoder with the sammy, but can't say I'm at all dissapointed with PQ, color etc. I was basically at the coin toss stage and was only leaning toward the sony because of the decoder. I also like the speakers being under the sammy screen better than on the sides - realistically it will run through surround sound so who needs the speakers anyway?

So, here's my questions for this forum, I'll likely by the HLP 6163 from either Circuit City, Best Buy or Sears as they'll all match price, do no interest financing and the like.

1. Is there any way for me to check the build date on the set i'm getting before it gets to my house - I mean, is the date stamped on it or the box someplace? It sounds to me like I should be hoping for a set built in October from everyone's problems/results/fixes on this board.

2. I'll obviously get the extended warranty on the set, but is any of Sears, Circuit City or Best Buy better in that respect than the others?


Thanks for all the help. I hope (and pray) that I can come back to this board next month and tell you all how wonderful the set is and how happy I am with it.

I'll tackle #2 briefly for you. I researched warranty plans pretty heavy from the local stores. I have the same as you (BB, CC, Sears). BB will tell you the world but don't always believe them. 90% of them are pretty clueless and you will find out that it is wrong. CC is bad but not quite as bad. I think Sears has a good reputation for service.

I was told by several locations of BB and CC that yearly cleanings were covered if I request them. Totally untrue!!! I ask both stores for their warranty info, took it home and read the whole thing. The only cover cleanings on certain products and TV's are not one of them. I was told by both stores that the bulb was covered. I called the 1-800 warranty phone # to clarify this and ask for something in writing. Both would verbally tell me that bulbs are covered but both refused to give me anything in writing to state that. NOTHING!!! Basically, the plan is written that they can change the warranty at any time without notifying you. If they want to stop covering the bulb next month, it is their choice and leaves you screwed. Not that they would necessarily change this coverage but they could.

The Manager at Sears was willing to put it in writing that the bulb was covered for the life of the warranty. He said that the store would be personally responsible to cover this if the warranty changes. I complained about getting false info from salesman at BB and CC to the 1-800 # and they didn't really care. Sears is good because they state they only use NEW parts. BB and CC have the option to use refurbished or used parts at their descretion.

If you want the best plan from one of these stores, Sears would be the best. However, their plans are much costlier than the other two. So if money isn't really a concern and you want a good plan you can go with Sears. If you want to save a little money and take your chances a little bit, go with one of the other 2. For this kind of purchase, you definitely need something. I had a hard time going with Sears for the extra money. For what I would have paid for their plan to have something in writing that the bulb is covered, I could have just bought a spare bulb.

CC is a little more expensive then BB, but CC was willing to match BB's price on warranty. So negotiate that if you go there. You can even get a warranty from TV Authority (AVS Sponsor) for a longer period of time and less money but do not cover the bulb. You don't even have to by the TV from them to get a warranty.

If you are curious where I ended up through all my research, here it is. I decided to NOT pull the trigger on the 63 series and spent the extra money on the 74 series that just came out. I bought it at a regional chain called Ovation (located in OH, KY, IN). They gave me a great price on the TV and gave me a service plan that was $110 less than BB and lasts a year longer. Their plan also will cover the bulb if the bulb FAILS. If the bulb dims and you feel you need a new one, then that is wear and tear and is my responsibilty. But if it goes OUT at any time in the 5 years, they cover it. Seemed pretty fair to me.

My suggestion is to check out a non-large chain if you have any you can check out. They are likely to match prices as well and will take good care of you. I know Ovation has a 110% price guarentee for any local store.

Feel free to PM me, if you want any particulars on prices and such on TVs or service plans.

Good luck! Hope I didn't make your brain hurt too much!!!

To FJ Merlin, be careful about radiation effects if you implement your cross species mating idea :).

Mike67,

One more thing, if you are near KY, IN, or OH and can go to Ovation. They have the 63 and 74 series and have 12 months Same As Cash going on this weekend.

Here is their website if you want locations:
http://www.ovation-av.com/default.aspx

I forget who put the long essay about the retail stores. I work at Circuit City in Entertainment. It's going to all depend on the one you go to. They're all going to be different. Our service plan does cover the bulb whether you got it written down or not. I've had several customers do the same exact thing as you, they want it in writing that we cover the bulb, and we gladly do that. You guys have to remember also its a huge customer service deal also. Think of it this way, your tv goes out the night before the Super Bowl. Samsung isnt coming out within 24 hours and getting you a new tv or even fixing it. Depending on your location and who the managers on, they can do several things. At my store if a deal like that happens, we get the customer a loaner tv and im not talkin about no RCA 32". We get them the same tv if we have it or bigger. So its little things like that, that make the service plan worth while.

Im in no way endorsing Circuit City in anyway, just informing you of what some stores do. You're spending an extra 499.99(ESP for 4 years at CC) so you have to be sure you want it. Read up, see what they cover like the gentlemen said before. Depending on what kind of associate you get, usually ask for the department manager, who will be able to work with you a lot easier than anyone else. Plus if you get the Performance Plan you're more likely to get bigger discounts because retail stores love that.

To answer your question at CC now, the 4663 is down to 2499, with 24 months no interest, MSRP was 3199 on it, so thats a really great price. Even the 5063 is down quite a bit from 3499 to 2799. Depending on your room, you can get great prices on most things. Any other questions, just ask.

Originally posted by trixter23
I forget who put the long essay about the retail stores. I work at Circuit City in Entertainment. It's going to all depend on the one you go to. They're all going to be different. Our service plan does cover the bulb whether you got it written down or not. I've had several customers do the same exact thing as you, they want it in writing that we cover the bulb, and we gladly do that. You guys have to remember also its a huge customer service deal also. Think of it this way, your tv goes out the night before the Super Bowl. Samsung isnt coming out within 24 hours and getting you a new tv or even fixing it. Depending on your location and who the managers on, they can do several things. At my store if a deal like that happens, we get the customer a loaner tv and im not talkin about no RCA 32". We get them the same tv if we have it or bigger. So its little things like that, that make the service plan worth while.

Im in no way endorsing Circuit City in anyway, just informing you of what some stores do. You're spending an extra 499.99(ESP for 4 years at CC) so you have to be sure you want it. Read up, see what they cover like the gentlemen said before. Depending on what kind of associate you get, usually ask for the department manager, who will be able to work with you a lot easier than anyone else. Plus if you get the Performance Plan you're more likely to get bigger discounts because retail stores love that.

To answer your question at CC now, the 4663 is down to 2499, with 24 months no interest, MSRP was 3199 on it, so thats a really great price. Even the 5063 is down quite a bit from 3499 to 2799. Depending on your room, you can get great prices on most things. Any other questions, just ask.

Trixter23,

First, if you can, I would edit out prices you mentioned in your post. We can only mention MSRP in these forums. You can hint at prices but don't spill the beans. This keeps the AVS sponsors happy.

I'm the one who mentioned all the research that I did on service plans. I can only vouch for locations around me. I did not mean any disrespect. I'm sure much of the staff at some locations is great. The few folks I talked to told me two different things on what was covered. Then after I called the 1-800 service # and asked for something in writing, at least just an email, they told me that they cannot do it. I called the store back and asked for a manager and asked him if he would put it in writing and he refused as well (referring to bulb coverage).

I just wanted to get the point across to potential buyers to NOT believe what ANY store sales rep tells you. Ask for the warranty fine print, take it home and read it word for word. Right down questions that you have and call them. Once you've researched all the prices, warranties, and reliability, make your decision on who to buy from.

I'm a very anal shopper and want the best for my money. In MY LOCATION, I was very unimpressed with what was told to me at stores and it turned me off. I really hated the gray areas on the fine print of the service plans as well.

My personal decision came very easy in the end when I decided I wanted the 4674 which BB and CC doesn't carry. Ovation gave me a very competitive price and great customer service. Yes, their service plan is a bit gray like BB and CC put I got if for $110 less and for a year more.

Sorry for the book everyone! Too many beers! LOL!

CC covers the bulb. It's a company wide policy, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

Also, anything that you purchase with a tv during a no interest promotion is included under that promotion. Cables, surround sound, etc. CC does not use refurbished parts for repairs.

Originally posted by HDKing
Tell you the truth, if my DLP arrives and the only thing that lags is the PS2 or XBox, I'll be very happy. Tivo, OTA, and some DVDs lagged bigtime, so hopefully this won't be a problem.

I was watching a DVD with an upconvert from 480i. There was a sound delay on the audio between the stereo and the built in speakers. I would say that Samsung knows about the sound issue since the built in speakers were synced with the video and the direct dvd output was not. What realy bugs me is why didn't they feed the audio they processed out the rear connectors for AV out.

Originally posted by snatch
CC covers the bulb. It's a company wide policy, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

Originally posted by snatch
CC covers the bulb. It's a company wide policy, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

Snatch,

That is great that they cover the bulb. But why will no one put it in writing anywhere? I really don't like taking someone's word on something. I don't think it is too much to ask. Not coming down on you or CC. BB won't put it in writing either.

When I asked for something in writing from the 1-800 #, I really didn't think it would be that big of a deal. I just assumed they would. But they told me they can't.

Just curious.

Thanks,
Mike

Originally posted by mike.laspina
I was watching a DVD with an upconvert from 480i. There was a sound delay on the audio between the stereo and the built in speakers. I would say that Samsung knows about the sound issue since the built in speakers were synced with the video and the direct dvd output was not. What realy bugs me is why didn't they feed the audio they processed out the rear connectors for AV out.

Why would you run the L+R out from the DLP to your stereo as opposed to running the L+R out from the DVD player to your stereo? Maybe the sync problem would be less obvious in this configuration

Tim

Mike:

To add to Tim's comment, if you do run audio directly to a receiver for output, turn off the internal speakers on the DLP. Samsung suggests doing this in the manual (at least mine -- 5063W).

I have many 4:3 letterboxed SVCDs that I would like to view without the horizontal/vertical bars.

Is there any way to do this? I haven't found a way yet, so I suspect not, but something like a Zoom might work. Would I have to drop down to an S-Video connection to do this?

Originally posted by snatch CC covers the bulb. It's a company wide policy, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

Can you buy the warranty from CC if you bought the TV elsewhere? What does the CC warranty cost?
Thanks

CC's was the most expensive, Im pretty sure it was 499. And you have to buy the screen from them in order to obtain it.

I bought my set in August? I have a HLP5053 and finally just turned it on(bought it for our house we were renovating) last night and noticed a strong green and pretty strong red push from my set. I tried to do a search on this forum but its currently locked. Any ideas or should I contact Samsung. I tried messing with the setttings but to no avail. Most of The Matrix was too green for me to keep watching. Any advise would be appreciated! :)
Chris

I assume you mean an HL-P5063.

You do know that The Matrix intentionally has a very green cast to it, right?

If the colors are significantly off on all your programming with the user controls near their defaults, (Try Standard Mode, with Warm 2 color temp, color level 50-60) you probably do need to have it looked at.

Thanks Steve,
I never really noticed it I guess on my old tube(the Matrix green cast), Im running component from an older Panny non prog scan but it seems even on Pirates of the Carribean in dark settings it seemed greenish to me, Ill try with a diff dvd and go with your suggestions and report back. Wont be until tomorrow since I dont have internet at home yet!
Chris

Originally posted by Badbenz94
I bought my set in August? I have a HLP5053 and finally just turned it on(bought it for our house we were renovating) last night and noticed a strong green and pretty strong red push from my set.
Here are two threads.

Samsung HLP5063 Picture Settings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=436590&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

Setting on HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3953939#post3953939)

It would help if you indicated what DVD player you are using and how it is connected.

I'm using a HTPC running TheaterTek through the DVI port. These are my settings.

Cinema Mode

DNIe & DNR off (I always turn off all PQ enhancement features.)

Contrast 90 (For DLP use the highest contrast you can with out crushing blacks or whites.)

Brightness 45
Sharpness 0 (same as DNIe & DNR)
Color 48

I used the Avia disk and the Digital Video Essentials disk. Matrix is not a good DVD to use for color. For skin tones one of my favorites is the Superbit version of The Fifth Element.

Originally posted by Badbenz94
Thanks Steve,
I never really noticed it I guess on my old tube(the Matrix green cast), Im running component from an older Panny non prog scan but it seems even on Pirates of the Carribean in dark settings it seemed greenish to me, Ill try with a diff dvd and go with your suggestions and report back. Wont be until tomorrow since I dont have internet at home yet!
Chris

My HLP6163 was a bit on the green side, but it disppeared once the bulb had a chance to start burning in.

I would put 100 hours on the bulb before worrying about making adjustments for color.

Dean

Originally posted by Badbenz94
Im running component from an older Panny non prog scan but it seems even on Pirates of the Carribean in dark settings it seemed greenish to me...
I still have a DVD player (older Sony non-progressive) but I like the "all digital" connection. You may want to look into a scaling DVD player at some point. There is a very big thread about this one.

Panasonic DVD-S97S Reference / FAQ / Brain dump (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=463025&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

If you still have too much green then I would do what Steve suggested and get the set checked.

I'm planing to get my HLP5063 ISF calibrated but I don't think I'll bother with the component ports.

Here is what I'm using with the Sony connected to Component One.

Cinema Mode
Brightness 38
Sharpness 0
Color 48
Tint 55

Badbenz94, re the green tint, if you are using component cables, you might try switching the blue and green cables on one end or the other. I was sure that I had them the right way. I had a strong green tint coming from our old Comcast HD STB. Our picture from DVI was fine; I switched them, & the picture and colors were normal. I swear that box or our TV must have had green and blue holes switched (or maybe I have been seeing blue for green all my life and have no way of knowing what these colors really look like - egads !!)

Originally posted by Zack Allen
... if you are using component cables, you might try switching the blue and green cables on one end or the other.
That's a very good suggestion. I have a problem reaching into the mess behind my system's storage unit and getting things plugged into the correct hole. :rolleyes:

Thanks guys, I ordered the DVE disk yesterday and ran with Steves intial suggestions and it helped, thanks! Too, dwette, I will let it run for around 100hrs before I get really worried and Zack,I will also switch the cables to make sure I didnt screw something up(wouldnt be the first time! :) )

On a Second note, did you guys mess with the MCC setttings at all and what are you using for picture size, ie zoom1 wide panorama etc?

You guys are GREAT!! I dont know anything about A/V stuff(learning from here though) but I know a little about cars and financial matters, ;) So if I can help out let me know.

Chris

Originally posted by Badbenz94
... what are you using for picture size, ie zoom1 wide panorama etc?

As long as you are using a component connection use these "p. size" settings to preserve the aspect ratios and PQ of DVD movies that you are watching.

If the movie was done as "Anamorphic Enhanced for Widescreen" or something like that use "Wide".

If the movie was done as "Academy Standard -- 4x3" use "4x3".

If the movie was done as "Letterbox widescreen" use "Zoom1".

Using other settings will modify PQ in different ways.

If you want detailed examples check the "black bars" link at the bottom of my message.

Thanks htwaits!!
Chris

I have a 2mo old 5063 with a Sept 2004 build date that I have had zero problems with. The picture in all modes (cinema, std, dynamic) with the default settings has become very dim and less clear. I have adjusted both contrast and brightness to no avail. eg. cranking brightness up from 50 to 80 still provides a poor picture.

Does anybody have any experience or guesses as to cause...bulb going bad prematurely, light engine, ballast, etc.?

12/18 Update: A light engine replacement fixed this problem.

i am having a problem connecting my cabe box ..this is simple enough but in the manual it states i should feed the cable direct to TV then to the box and back to TV again..ok ,when i do that i am not able to use the cable box..it might as well not be connected..
at first i had cable go to box first and then to TV and it worked but i couldnt take advantage of PIP..it worked but if it wasnt on channel 3 i just got snow..
where i am you cant view certain channels without the cable box to descramble them..so my TV only picks up about half the cable channels hooked up the first way i mentioned..
anyone else have this issue??


mac

Hi
We have the HLP4663 and using the DVE disc I notice a lot of overscanning. In the SM I can only find a Vertical and Horizontal (up and down - side to side) setting, not - top, bottom, left, right. I found this in Options.
Does anyone know if there is a more precise adjustment somewhere in the SM?
Also there has been a lot of talk about audio sync problems. Here is a post from Sound and Vision Forums, the response is to Barney the forum moderator.

I guess there is no easy fix for these sound sync problems.

Regards


Sound and Vision Forums


I emailed Home Theater & Arcam about the issue about audio/video sync problems that digital displays seem to have. Here is the email I just got from Arcam (which has an adjustment for the video delay issue in their new A/V receivers & DVD players):

Barney, (edited my name)
The reason many manufacturers put lip sync controls on their models is that audio and video are processed as two different signals within the electronics The statement about digital displays is a bit misleading. It's not that the display is doing something wrong or creating a problem. It's just that it takes a different amount of time for the video device to decode the incoming signal and turn it into a picture than it does for the audio processor to decode the Dolby digital signal (or DTS, or pro-logic, or
whatever the audio signal is being processed as). Most digital displays
have more processing than analog displays.
If the lipsync is off then you get the badly dubbed Japanese horror movie type of effect. In other words, their lips are moving but the audio is a
beat behind.
The controls are variable because the timing is equipment dependant. If you had a two piece projector with a line doubler/scaler then video would take longer to process than it would through a plasma fed through an HDMI
connection.
The other variable is where the video signal is coming from and what the source does to the signal. An example is satellite dishes, one channel can have a delay and another channel will not have the same delay.

Arcam isn't the only manufacturer with lipsync controls although they are one of the only manufactures in their price range who offer the control. You can read about lipsync on Meridian or Lexicon's websites, they both offer this feature. (Other manufacturers offer the feature, but I'm not as
familiar with other manufacturers as I am with Meridian and Lexicon.) If
you want more information you might try Widescreen Review, they tend to go into the technical aspects of audio and video.

If I haven't answered your question and you want more information, please let me know. You could also ask the people at Audio Systems in Austin, they are very technically competent, as well as being a great audio video dealer.


Lisa Love
Sage Marketing Solutions
8810 Edgelake Trail
Rowlett TX 75088
phone: 972-475-9066
fax: 972-475-9607
e-mail: sagesolutions@msn.com <mailto:sagesolutions@msn.com>


----- Original Message -----
To: sagesolutions@msn.com <mailto:sagesolutions@msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 4:58 AM
Subject: Arcam video sync controls

Howdy,
I read in the Dec 2004 Home Theater Mag (page 92) about a review of the Arcam AVR300 A/V receiver & DV79 DVD play. The reviewer (Steve
Guttenberg) stated, "Both the receiver and the player have adjustable lip-sync controls to compensate for the video-processing delays inherent in digital displays."
I don't think Arcam would have this control unless it was an issue. My question is, is it really an issue with digital displays? Any info or links to some info about this "problem". My next pre-pro may just be an Arcam. researching right now for updates for my system. Thanks

Barney
Austin, Texas

This is the answer I got from Home Theater. Note, no one "signed" it though. From everything I finding, its doesn't seem to be the display, its the provider (OTA, Cable, DVD player, etc). Samsung has responed that they have my email, but as of yet, no responce:

Audio/video synchronization has become a total mess, even on the off chance that the signal coming from your source component has perfect lip-sync to begin with. It isn't necessarily the fault of the display itself; blame rests with each of the audio and video processors in the chain (video scaler, digital audio decoder, audio DSP, etc.) Most signal processors these days (wherever they are in the audio or video signal path) add delay. Most often the video delay is longer than the audio delay, but not always. Getting all the cumulative audio and video delays to add up to the same total latency (resulting in the correct synchronization of the audio and
video) is a real trick since there are so many variables. One of the newest chip sets for displays is touting its ability to delay the sound (even though it does no other audio processing) to match the amount of video delay it adds. All bets are off, however, once you use an external audio system and not just the speakers in the display.

Devices with adjustable lip-sync (such as the Arcam) are a good work-around if you are willing to fiddle with them.


To: htletters@primedia.com <mailto:htletters@primedia.com>
Sent: 11/13/2004 2:18 AM
Subject: Audio/Video sync issues/info please

Howdy,
In the Dec 2004 issue of HT mag, Steve Guttenberg wrote a review on Arcam AVR300 A/V receiver & DV79 DVD player. On page 92 Steve wrote, "Both the receiver and the player have adjustable lip-sync controls to compensate for the video-processing delays inherent in digital displays." I knew that Samsung DLP monitors had an issue with the audio/video sync but my dealer here said they haven't seen the problem on the HLP's. But with Steve's statement, most if not all digital displays have this issue. Does anyone have any info about this issue with digital displays? Thanks.



Regards

I'm using an HLP6163 with the Arcam AVR300 and an Arcam DV88+ DVD player. What the Arcam rep told you is spot on.

My DV88+ has an upgraded Silicon Image SiI504 deinterlacer and the player software includes a lipsynch control (as does the AVR300). I set that to 60ms delay to account for deinterlacing processing by the SiI504.

I have DirecTV and use the Samsung SIR-TS360. It is correct that different channels will have different delays. Some of the worse out-of-synch material comes form HD OTA signals. Somethimes they are just about right, sometimes they are so off the AVR300 delay can't even compensate. There just isn't much one can do about that.

BTW: the Arcam AVR300 is an awesome HT receiver. It sounds great (very musical) and has a nice set of AV features. If you're interested there is a dedicated Arcam forum here (http://www.avforums.com/frame.html?http://www.avforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=119) where the Arcam president and lead engineers often respond to questions.

Dean

Originally posted by Zack Allen
Badbenz94, re the green tint, if you are using component cables, you might try switching the blue and green cables on one end or the other. I was sure that I had them the right way. I had a strong green tint coming from our old Comcast HD STB. Our picture from DVI was fine; I switched them, & the picture and colors were normal. I swear that box or our TV must have had green and blue holes switched (or maybe I have been seeing blue for green all my life and have no way of knowing what these colors really look like - egads !!)

I had been suffering with a green tint with my HLP56 since I got it in late September. This issue only presented itself with DVD's (component 1 input being used). I read your post and checked the green/blue inputs. They were CORRECTLY plugged in. For the heck of it I switched it so blue went into green (and vice versa)......INCREDIBLE! My green problem went away.
This same DVD player (panny rp56) and component cable that had previously been used on my 34" Sony.

What gives? Is this a known issue?

I have a Denon DVD-3910 feeding a 720p signal thru DVI to a Sammy HLP6163. The 3910 signal out is set to 16:9.

Everything was working fine as far as aspect ratios, until recently. Now many widescreen films looked stretched in Wide mode. I can press the P. Size button to 4:3 which eliminates the stretching but then I have black bars on top AND pillar bars on the side.

Also, a movie in 1.85:1 fills the screen and looks exactly the same in Wide and Expand modes.

Any ideas?

For the TV signal (Sat thru HDMI), only the mode of Wide looks good in standard def —4:3 squeezes the picture. Is Wide the correct mode for SD TV?

Thanks.

Make sure the widescreen film is anamorphic. If a 1.85:1 fills the screen and another widescreen DVD doesn't with the exact same settings, then the DVD must be letterboxed and not anamorphic.

Make sure your DVD player is set for a 16:9 TV and not a 4:3 one.

Originally posted by Pilboy
I had been suffering with a green tint with my HLP56 since I got it in late September. This issue only presented itself with DVD's (component 1 input being used). I read your post and checked the green/blue inputs. They were CORRECTLY plugged in. For the heck of it I switched it so blue went into green (and vice versa)......INCREDIBLE! My green problem went away.
This same DVD player (panny rp56) and component cable that had previously been used on my 34" Sony.

What gives? Is this a known issue?

Funny thing is I tried this last night and it showed on my TV that there was no signal present once I switched the cables, but when it was connected b4 I switched and I pulled the blue cable, i did notice that there was a lack of blue color. But I think it should show a signal if plug them in backwards though right? If that is the case then something is probably wrong with my dvd player. Any insights? Too Im getting Direct TV(sorry!)later this week(nonHD) is there a preferred method on conection, S cable?

Oh two more things, I can hear the fan on my tv but only when Im close is this normal and how do I find my build date on my TV?

Thanks again everyone!
Chris

I almost sounds like you have a bad cable. You might want to try switching cables or even turning it around.

If the Dish box has a DVI connector use it if your set has it available. You should get a better picture with component or DVI input.

Fan noise is normal. A high pitched whine which can be heard next door is not.

I have a 3 month old 5063. The other morning, my wife turned on the TV and the screen had an extreme green tint (ie everything was green or gray) I shut it down and turned it on 10 minutes later and all was fixed. Is this something I should worry about getting worse?

Pilboy wrote, regarding the green tint, that he had been having green tint issue via component cables, and adds that " ... were CORRECTLY plugged in. For the heck of it I switched it so blue went into green (and vice versa)......INCREDIBLE! My green problem went away .... What gives? Is this a known issue?

______________________________

I would be really impressed if they could make the red, blue and green connectors change every now and then, just to keep us on our toes. Those who stumble onto the correct combonation would get their warranties extended three months for each sucessful attempt.

Quick question:

Does anyone have average or recommended settings for the contrast, brightness, tint, sharpness, etc... for the Samsung HLP5063??

I know each TV is different, but I was just curious if there was an average or recommened ## for each of those settings in the picture menu?

Not only is each TV different, but it depends on what components you have connected to it and what type of connector. The settings for S-Video, composite, DVI are all going to be different.

Settings differ through different inputs but as a general rule 90 to 100 for contrast(some prefer it lower). I have owned an HLN and now own an 85 series and 47 on brightness seems to be the limit before introducing grain and starting to diminish your blacks. Back off the colour on lower res inputs(svideo composite) 32-42 and higher on the rest. Skin tones tell the tale here. Sharpness is a matter of preference. The better the signal the more you can increase it. 0-50 seems to be the range.

So if change all the settings for each individual input will the TV "remember" my settings for each?
Chris

Yes