Has anyone had the red standby/temp light remain on? I know that it's purpose is to let you know it's still warm and is cooling off with the fan, but mine stays on all the time when the tv is off. It goes off when the tv is turned on.

I'm guessing that unplugging it would probably reset the issue, but am looking to see if it will resolve itself.

I haven't seen this one posted anywhere, have I run into a new one?

Originally posted by djacobs
Has anyone had the red standby/temp light remain on? I know that it's purpose is to let you know it's still warm and is cooling off with the fan, but mine stays on all the time when the tv is off. It goes off when the tv is turned on.

I'm guessing that unplugging it would probably reset the issue, but am looking to see if it will resolve itself.

I haven't seen this one posted anywhere, have I run into a new one?

Nope. That's the way it's supposed to work. Stays on all the time while the TV is off.

A while back, I read about a member of this forum who had bought a bracket to mount on top of his DLP that allowed him to add a center channel speaker to the top. Does anyone know where this link can be found?
Thanks!

VA Ringer: I never posted a picture, but did manage to rig up a system that is very simple but works quite well. I use industrial strength velcroe (from Home Depot), a ~10" strip stuck down to the top edge of the hlp (which is ~2" wide). I stick the mirror image of this along the front edge of the bottom of the center speaker. So the front edge of the speaker is secured to the top edge of the hlp (a 6163 for me). The question is then to support the back of the speaker. I do this with a piece of wood, about 1/4" thick, ~2" wide, and ~ 8 or 9" long. The top end I attach to the bottom of the speaker, again with velcroe: a small strip on the bottom of the speaker (at the rear) and a small strip around the end of the wooden brace (so it won't slip). The bottom end of the wooden stick I brace on the small plastic notch on the back of the hlp (in the center, about 6" or so down). I chiseled out the bottom end of the wooden piece so that it sits right on the notch. By adjusting just where one attaches the top end of the wooden piece to the bottom of the speaker, one can easily adjust the angle of the center speaker, ie. to angle it down slightly to the primary listening area.

This may sound more complicated than it is since I tried to be very explicit. But it is really simple and has worked very well for me. Very secure and also easy to adjust the downward angle.

Hmmm......that sure is a bit strange. I wonder why it didn't work like that for the first few months.......i guess it fixed itself....


Originally posted by EricScott
Nope. That's the way it's supposed to work. Stays on all the time while the TV is off.

Hello,

I got an HLP5063 last week and yesterday I finally got my 811 HD tuner from Dish network. The picture is great on most of the HD channels but I had an issued when I was watching a basketball game on TNTHD. The picture on the closeups looked great but whenever they switched to a camera that showed the whole court the players wearing white uniforms looked kind of blurry, almost like the uniforms where shaking or something. I have the tuner set to HD, 16x9 and 720 output. Is there some setting I am missing or is this an issue with my Monitor? Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Mike

Originally posted by mregan
Hello,

I got an HLP5063 last week and yesterday I finally got my 811 HD tuner from Dish network. The picture is great on most of the HD channels but I had an issued when I was watching a basketball game on TNTHD. The picture on the closeups looked great but whenever they switched to a camera that showed the whole court the players wearing white uniforms looked kind of blurry, almost like the uniforms where shaking or something. I have the tuner set to HD, 16x9 and 720 output. Is there some setting I am missing or is this an issue with my Monitor? Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Mike Same thing here...Dish811...Samsung HLP6163...DVi to DVI...Even watching Leno on the Tonight show...background buildings seem to shimmer and look wavey. I have my 811 set up same way.

I posted this on the "Which is better 1080i or 720P? Why?" thread, but just realized this is a better place for it...

[various quotes]...I have a Samsung HLP-5063W, which will not input at 720p over component...All I know is from what was posted in the other thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4590062#post4590062) I mentioned: the HLN series doesn't have this limitation but the HLP series does. Why? I haven't a clue. The workaround for me was to connect via DVI. Other HDTVs don't seem to have this problem AFAIK, but I only have experience with the Samsung HLP, so I have no details...I just checked it out, and yup, it was set to 1080i by default. i tried to change it to 720p but it would not work because its hooked up component.I just came back from my local Tweeters, where I asked the very knowledgeable (IMO) sales rep about this. He said they had sold many Samsungs (including the HL-P5063W I'm considering), that he had never heard of this, that the store's video source was 720p, and that the TV was set to component (I checked this myself). The video was being displayed on the TV and the picture looked great. What am I missing? The sales rep has been very helpful during my many visits and has offered numerous frank comments about the Samsung; i.e., he doesn't appear to be praising it just to try to make a quick sale. BTW, they are displaying content from DirecTV HD; perhaps I should have him prove that the receiver is outputing 720p?

Why aren't there more complaints about this problem? Is it affecting only certain units, perhaps? Is it something that people aren't too concerned about? I would think that 720p over component video is a common scenario and that if the Samsungs don't support it, that's a major problem. But I'm new to all of this. ;)

I guess I should mention that I am also doing HD over component.

Originally posted by mregan
Hello,

I got an HLP5063 last week and yesterday I finally got my 811 HD tuner from Dish network. The picture is great on most of the HD channels but I had an issued when I was watching a basketball game on TNTHD. The picture on the closeups looked great but whenever they switched to a camera that showed the whole court the players wearing white uniforms looked kind of blurry, almost like the uniforms where shaking or something. I have the tuner set to HD, 16x9 and 720 output. Is there some setting I am missing or is this an issue with my Monitor? Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Mike

cgwaters,

Easy way to tell what format is being input is to hit the "Info" button on the Samsung remote. The component inputs on the HLP's can accept all formats - 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. My 8000HD is hooked to my HLP5063 with component and when I am watching a 720p channel it comes in at 720p. It's possible your component input is just busted. Did you try the other component input?

It's definitely not a limitation of the set. Yours may just need servicing.

Originally posted by bruce73
htwaits or BarryN:

Like you guys, I could connect at 720p or 1080i via DVI from the 6200 to my 5063. Have either of you tried connecting via component at 720p and, if so, were you successful?

I'm trying to get to the bottom of why I couldn't do that with the moto 6200 and now can't with the moto moxi (BMC9012). Only 1080i works with component (480p, too, but not interested in that). Just wondering if it's something with the Samsung that is preventing this. [and also in response to cgwaters, who started the thread over at www.xbox.com]

I recently became aware of this "problem" over at the Microsoft Xbox forums (http://forums.xbox.com/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=10907574 - free subscription required).

It got my curiosity up, so I tried a couple of tests and thought you (all) might find it interesting.

Test number 1 (and something weird is going on):

Here's what I did...

1. Turn 1080i off in dashboard (widescreen is on).
2. Pop in Syberia (which in my mind I know I went and looked at on 1080i as soon as I got the 5063, as it's the only title I have that supports 1080i - however when I played it I was still using my old TV - anyway, I expect 1080i to work).
3. Load a saved game - hmm, I have letter box and pillars going on at the same time (it's looks like a 16:9 picture scaled and placed in a 4:3 box). Use info button on remote and source is 720p.
4. Return to main menu and play a cut scene with exact same results as above.

Return to dash and turn 1080i back on. Repeat above steps with same results. Question is why didn't 1080i kick back in? All formats are turned on.

Return to dash and turn 720p off (1080i still on).

Repeat above steps and now it is 16:9 widescreen and in 1080i.

Weird, now 1080i is OK. Might this be an Xbox bug (not picking up correct format)? Or maybe it is the game itself (see below)?

So what do I know so far? I'm not sure why 720p did not look right (5063 problem?), but it was odd that 1080i was not picked up when everything was back on (in the dash). That's what really puzzles me. I would have noticed this the first time I looked at Syberia on the 5063!

Test number 2:

First I go to http://www.hdtvarcade.com/xboxlist.htm and http://hdgames.net/ to get a list of games that support 720p (I came up with 29). Then I start looking at my OXM demo disks and find three titles on the list, Conflict Vietnam, Dukes of Hazard and NBA Ballers (and I stopped looking at this point, so there might be more). The first two are on the same disk, number 38. NBA Ballers is on disk 34.

Neither Conflict Vietnam nor Dukes of Hazard actually played in 720p, so I figured they scaled it down on the demo to get better frame rates or something.

But NBA Ballers played in 720p and looked great! All the menus had pillars (but went full height), but when the game started it was 16:9 and 720p (pressing the "info" button on the remote shows 1280x720) and it looked beautiful.

So what can I say... I don't think it is the TV, rather the various sources are probably not done quite right... At least IMHO...

I need to go back and check Syberia again. That one is really bugging me, since I've done this before for 1080i and did not need to turn off 720p to see it...

So weird...

Anyway, I thought I would add this to the data bank...

Eric

Originally posted by EricScott
Easy way to tell what format is being input is to hit the "Info" button on the Samsung remote. The component inputs on the HLP's can accept all formats - 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. My 8000HD is hooked to my HLP5063 with component and when I am watching a 720p channel it comes in at 720p. It's possible your component input is just busted. Did you try the other component input?

It's definitely not a limitation of the set. Yours may just need servicing. [/B]Thanks, Eric; that sounds promising. I haven't actually purchased the 5063 yet, but I was about to. My only hold up was whether this was a legitimate problem...and, if it is a legitimate problem, whether I should be concerned about it. Seemed like at least a few people were able to re-produce this problem, although the details differ.

Oh, one more concern: The blotches that people seem to be complaining about. Do you see them on your model? If so: Are they visible when the TV is off? How long does it take for them to go away? Are you sure they are going away--or just becoming unnoticeable?

Thanks, again!

Originally posted by cgwaters
Oh, one more concern: The blotches that people seem to be complaining about. Do you see them on your model? If so: Are they visible when the TV is off? How long does it take for them to go away? Are you sure they are going away--or just becoming unnoticeable?

Thanks, again!

The smudges are a problem with all of the Sammy HLPs - there have been reports of smudges on the 63, 74 and 85 series. They appear to be temperature dependent. If your TV is going to be in a cool, damp environment they could be a problem. I rarely see them. When I do they go away after 15 mins or so once the set has warmed up.

Wouldn't worry about it. Overall very pleased with the 5063.

Today I had my 61" screens replaced by Samsung due to the smudges...haven't seen them since...but tommorrow morning could be a different thing after sitting all night...they also brought out a light engine to install...I told them not to install it, I knew it was just the screens. Fingers crossed this is a fix...but if not I feel like EricScott I can live with them. My only problem now is to get a DVD player that works good with this set.

Originally posted by EricScott
My 8000HD is hooked to my HLP5063 with component and when I am watching a 720p channel it comes in at 720p. It's possible your component input is just busted. Did you try the other component input?

It's definitely not a limitation of the set. Yours may just need servicing.

Eric,

Since I'm one of the ones who has stated that I cannot input 720p via component, I thought I add this: I took your suggestion about trying the other component input and had the same problem. I think it would be extremely unlikely that both would be faulty on mine, and on others as well.

Who makes your 8000HD? Scientific Atlantic? Both the 6200 STB I had previously and the moxi 9012 I have now are from Motorola. So I'm wondering if the problem is coming from those devices. Also, I'm with Adelphia, if that's significant, but it shouldn't be.

So I'm stumped. What's the build date of your set? Mine is July '04.

Originally posted by bruce73
Eric,

Who makes your 8000HD? Scientific Atlantic? Both the 6200 STB I had previously and the moxi 9012 I have now are from Motorola. So I'm wondering if the problem is coming from those devices. Also, I'm with Adelphia, if that's significant, but it shouldn't be.

So I'm stumped. What's the build date of your set? Mine is July '04.

Bruce,

Could very possibly be the Moto STB. I happen to have a Sci. Atlanta but I know that a lot of people with Moto 6200's can't pass through 720p, only 1080i, but I believe those issues were over DVI. Perhaps the same problem exists for component.

If htwaits is reading this, he's the expert on the Moto STBs with the HLPs.

BTW, my set is an April '04 build - was #1 on the original TVA PB list.

Originally posted by EricScott
...I know that a lot of people with Moto 6200's can't pass through 720p, only 1080i, but I believe those issues were over DVI. Perhaps the same problem exists for component.


Actually I could get 720p via DVI with the 6200, which I discovered quite by accident. I'm hoping for the same with moxi when they eventually enable the DVI output.

I got my set through TVA's powerbuy as well. Hope you're enjoying yours as much as I am mine.

What's "TVA's powerbuy"?

Originally posted by EricScott
If htwaits is reading this, he's the expert on the Moto STBs with the HLPs.
I'm on Maui for one more day!

I'm not an expert but I do have a HLP5063 and a Motorola 6200. :)

I have them connected through HDMI at 720p. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by cgwaters
What's "TVA's powerbuy"?

When the 63 series first came out, TV Authority (sponsor this forum) did a powerbuy - they took preorders and sold the sets in bulk to AVS forum members at a very reasonable price. I got my set weeks before they hit stores (6 months ago) and I have yet to see a price that beats what I paid by more than $50-$100 or so.

Bruce - love my HLP so far. Had 3BL a while ago and they replaced the entire LE two days later. Very impressed by Samsung's customer service and the entire experience.

htwaits - checking avsforum form Maui - now that's dedication :)

Les, enjoy your vacation, we can wait for you.

the 720P component problem is with motorola stbs only. Samsung has a hardware fix - but they actully blame motorola whose output is a little loose on specifications.

jb

Thanks, jb33, that confirms the 720p problem I have with the moxi box as well (Motorola BMC9012).

I just got my HLP-5663W. I've got about 30 hours or so on it. I have a panny S97 DVD(HDMI), XBOX MS hd-componet, and DN HD811(DVI) Sat receiver. Picture looks clear and vibrant. However I noticed when playing DVDs I get a green cast to picture. I also was not happy with the XBOX's color. The HD from the Sat receiver looked pretty good. I set the brightness, contrast, and played with a few modes on tv. I also configured my panny to a bunch of recommend settings which do look pretty good. When I put in THX test patterns on my DVD player I saw green dots in the grey scale. I read in the panny thread that some were complaining about a green cast on a few dvds. To be on the safe side I played test pattern on xbox through XBMC. Sure enough same green dots. The TV defiantly looks green especially when there is a dark scene. Kinda looks polarized. I couldn’t find any threads on this. I’m not sure if the bulb still has to be broken in, or I have to adjust this in service mode(If so how)? Worst yet does the TV need to be serviced? Can someone with this set please respond back and let me know.

Originally posted by jb33
the 720P component problem is with motorola stbs only. Samsung has a hardware fix - but they actully blame motorola whose output is a little loose on specifications.

jb

JB33 , are you sure about this? When I called Samsung about the issue last month, the tech had no idea what I was talking about. He, reluctantly set up a service call for me and when the field tech came out, he told me that this is a known issue by the senior techs for all respective companies involved and that there is no fix for the issue. I told him that I read that there seemed to be some sort of hardware fix that Samsung had and he told me that this bit of information, which seems to be floating in the the AVS Forum is completely untrue.

How do you know that Samsung has a hardware fix? Can you provide some sort of part number that is being replaced on affected Samsung units? I'd like the get the "bug" fixed on my TV if possible.

Thanks

I've had conversations with two techs (Digital Service Coordinator) about it and been "scheduled" for a replacement though I've yet to receive a scheduling call.

And while CSR knowledge (or lack there of) is no confirmation one way or another, I'm fairly certain there is a fix because folks geting the lipsync fox (two board swap) after Samsung told me about the board fix, do not have the 720p component motorola issue.

jb

hmm. Please keep us up to date on any progress.

Hopefully it works for you so I can get the fix on my 5085.

Well, with my HLM507W I had finally had as much of the Internal Reflection problem that I could stand ('Star Wars: Return of the Jedi' put me over the edge...) and, since Samsung seemed to have no fix for it (E10 lens assembly, notwithstanding), they agreed to swap me out for an HLP-5063W. It arrived last Wednesday (12/8/04). Kudos to Samsung for this gesture!

Now I may be having complainer's remorse. The new set has:

1. Smudges (irritating, but not as much as IRs)
2. A Dead pixel (it actually looks bigger than a single pixel - are the two pixels served by each HD3 mirror adjacent to each other?)
3. Pretty severe overscan (I haven't actually put in DVE or Avia to see how much, but with my HLM I was able to use my PC in normal TV mode and just lost a little of the border. With the HLP, there's NO way you can use the PC in TV mode - the entire bottom bar is missing...), and using PC mode renders the text a little too fuzzy.
4. PQ seems to be down a little from the HLM. I had applied the HLM/HLN tweaks (my unit was upgraded during the summer 2003 HLM->HLN free upgrade) to the DVI input on my 507W, and the picture looked pretty darn good.

So, why am I posting?

1. I'm not going to worry about the smudges...
2. What's been the experience with the HLPs and dead pixels? Has Samsung taken a zero-tolerance position?
3. Is there anything that can be done about the overscan? Is there a mechanical adjustment to move the LE a little closer to the screen?
4. SM Tweaks, anyone? Has anyone had a calibration performed? Or are there any commonly accepted SM tweaks available for this set? I believe that I read that one modification that many were making was to set Gamma to 0. Any other across-the-board tweak-sets available? As I mentioned, I haven't calibrated the user settings yet (DVE/Avia), so it's possible this will be a non-issue. But, surely someone out there has calibrated this set and has some recommendations.

I ordered the Service Manual, but it'll be a few days in coming.

Thanks.

- s.west

HLP's overscan alot more than HLN's. Expand mode works ok but text is thicker on PC mode when sharpness is set to 0. Yep you have a stuck mirror. I would ask for a replacement.

How can you tell if you have a dead pixel?
Chris

PS Bent98 I have the same issues( green cast), anyone have any ideas?

Originally posted by Badbenz94
How can you tell if you have a dead pixel?
Chris

PS Bent98 I have the same issues( green cast), anyone have any ideas?
In my case, I have a black dot (pixel-sized, or perhaps 2-pixel-sized) that you can easily see on a white background.

Also, I watched "The Bourne Supremacy" last night and there was a decidedly green cast to most dark scenes. I assumed, based on Widescreen Review's review and some other commentary that I saw, that this was an issue with the DVD itself. Now I'm not so sure.

That dvd is green but for me im getting green cast on everything. The THX test patters show green cast bigtime on grey scale, however AVIA disc doesnt show it. Wierd. But none the less its there. I called samsung and am having a field eng loook at this.

Also I have a pincusion issue. Anyone know what the service menu setting is to adj that?

Originally posted by bent98
I called samsung and am having a field eng loook at this.

Also I have a pincusion issue. Anyone know what the service menu setting is to adj that?
Let us know what you find out.

SM for pincushion? not a clue:(

Originally posted by bent98
Also I have a pincushion issue. Anyone know what the service menu setting is to adj that?
If you mean a bow in vertical lines like the edges of a 4x3 image with black bars there is no SM adjustment.

All RPTV sets seem to have some pincushion but some sets are worse or better than others. :)

My wifes little brother got a job at BestBuy...

He sais he can get the Samsung HL-P6163W for $3000

Is this a good price for that model?
Is there a higher end model my money would be better spent on?

Thanks

It's a very good price! The hlp 5674 is not quite a big but may have an even more stiking picture. But not sure BB can get this model. I have a 6163 and like it very much.

bent98 writes: "That dvd is green but for me im getting green cast on everything..."

I had this problem and switched the green and blue leads, which solved the problem.

Originally posted by millerwill
It's a very good price! The hlp 5674 is not quite a big but may have an even more stiking picture. But not sure BB can get this model. I have a 6163 and like it very much.

millerwill,

How old is your set ? I got my 6163 delivered 2 weeks ago and it's still in the box in the living room coz my basement is not ready yet. I'm hoping the 6163s have better quality control and better parts than the 5063 because they are newer. For instance, I hope the newer 6163s don't have the 3-blinking-light problem or smudge because they may have the new HD2+ light engine and may be new screen type also. Am I right?

Originally posted by wdang
millerwill,

How old is your set ? I got my 6163 delivered 2 weeks ago and it's still in the box in the living room coz my basement is not ready yet. I'm hoping the 6163s have better quality control and better parts than the 5063 because they are newer. For instance, I hope the newer 6163s don't have the 3-blinking-light problem or smudge because they may have the new HD2+ light engine and may be new screen type also. Am I right?

I got my 6163 the first week of August, i.e., one of the early ones, and it has had ZERO problems: no 'smudges', blinking lights, etc., etc. I think that there are so many of these out there, and that one naturally hears about the problems, that one thinks that a large fraction have problems. In fact, I think that my experience is much more the case, and one just doesn't hear as much when there are no problems.

But, the 6163 is still the same; i.e., yours will not have the HD2+ chip or a different screen. (The Samsung screen is OUTSTANDING; I hope they never change it!)

Originally posted by 1Mark1
Yep you have a stuck mirror. I would ask for a replacement.
I did, and they will. Whoo hoo!

Thanks. I would probably have just suffered in silence but for your nudging.:)

Originally posted by millerwill
I got my 6163 the first week of August, i.e., one of the early ones, and it has had ZERO problems: no 'smudges', blinking lights, etc., etc. I think that there are so many of these out there, and that one naturally hears about the problems, that one thinks that a large fraction have problems. In fact, I think that my experience is much more the case, and one just doesn't hear as much when there are no problems.

But, the 6163 is still the same; i.e., yours will not have the HD2+ chip or a different screen. (The Samsung screen is OUTSTANDING; I hope they never change it!)

millerwill, what is your temp/humidity like in the room where your tv is? I'm trying to figure out the smudge issue. It seems to be temp or humidity related. There have been people that have had the screens replaced only to have the smudge problem re-occur.

Originally posted by wdang
I'm hoping the 6163s have better quality control and better parts than the 5063 because they are newer.

Samsung seems to change parts during a model year so you may have some minor differences but overall the HLPxx63 sets will have the same parts.

For instance, I hope the newer 6163s don't have the 3-blinking-light problem or smudge because they may have the new HD2+ light engine and may be new screen type also. Am I right?

Samsung may have found a solution to the "smudge" problem or it may be that smudges will occur on a percentage of screens depending on the environment the individual set is in -- humidity, temperature, etc.

All HLPxx63 sets have the same light engine which includes the HD3 chip and a seven element color wheel. Over time Samsung does seem to make changes to the firmware code which can cause the OTB PQ to be different.

The HD2+ chip is in HLPxx85 and HLPxx74 models, but the "85" light engines are different than the "74" light engines. The "85" sets have a vertical light engine and a seven element color wheel. The "74" sets have a modified version of the HLN light engine with a six element color wheel.

Originally posted by canaugle
millerwill, what is your temp/humidity like in the room where your tv is? I'm trying to figure out the smudge issue. It seems to be temp or humidity related. There have been people that have had the screens replaced only to have the smudge problem re-occur.

Not precisely sure of the temp/humidity. We live in the north Berkeley hills (not too high up), so the temp is mostly on the cool side and not too dry; and we don't overly heat on house (a sabbatical in England got us used to wearing sweaters if it was chilly!), keeping the thermostat ~66 or so.

Les, did I read a while back that you had ended up purchasing an HLP-5063 (or maybe a 6163)? If so have you made any SM tweaks, or implemented anyone else's SM tweaks?

Have I missed it, or is there no comprehensive post that accumulates the HLP-XX63 tweaks for the benefit of the OOTB PQ-challenged?

Thanks.

Originally posted by swest
Les, did I read a while back that you had ended up purchasing an HLP-5063 (or maybe a 6163)? If so have you made any SM tweaks, or implemented anyone else's SM tweaks?

I have a HLP5063 and based on what others have reported I set gamma to zero in the SM.

In the UM I've set sharpness to zero and used the DVE disk to set brightness. That improved detail in dark scenes a lot.

I've also turned off all the "image enhancement" features -- sharpness, DNIe and DNR.

I'm using Cinema Mode with contrast at 90, brightness at 45, and color at 48.

I'm setting up an appointment with SethS (Seth Schnaible) for a ISF calibration in January. Seth consults with Samsung and is an ISF instructor. He has done a lot of work with the "63" models and owns the HLP5063.

Cheezmo (Steve Martin) is another ISF certified calibrator who owns the HLP5063. Steve has been contributing a lot of good advise in the HLP5674W/HLP4674W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=466328&perpage=20&pagenumber=1) thread.

Thanks for that response.

In the intervening time between my question to you and your response, I started a dedicated HLP-XX63 thread. Perhaps you could re-post this info into that thread to sort of start us off.

- s.west

So htwaits - does this mean you have decided to keep the 5063?

Just curious - what does turning Gamma to 0 do?

I have tried toggling DNR on and off on all of my sources with a variety of content and have never noticed any difference. I usually keep DNIe on except when watching football. Just curious whether you used to use DNIe and then stopped once you set gamma to 0 or do the two things have nothing to do with one another?

Originally posted by swest
Perhaps you could re-post this info into that thread to sort of start us off.
Done. :)

Originally posted by EricScott
So htwaits - does this mean you have decided to keep the 5063?

Yes. The HLP5674 was ~$800 more and bulkier in our small living room.

Just curious - what does turning Gamma to 0 do?

My meager understanding is that each gamma setting represents a different array of configuration data that the light engine uses. Others thought that Gamma = 0 was an improvement over the OTB setting -- in my case that was Gamma = 6.

That setting combined with brightness set with the DVE disk improved detail in dark scenes for our set.

Just curious whether you used to use DNIe and then stopped once you set gamma to 0 or do the two things have nothing to do with one another?

I turn them all off as a matter of principal. ;)

If you search for Cheezmo's comments in the HLPxx74 thread that I just posted you will find his professional comments about the "enhancement" features. Many others have the same "intolerant" view. :)

htwaitts: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)

Originally posted by millerwill
Not precisely sure of the temp/humidity. We live in the north Berkeley hills (not too high up), so the temp is mostly on the cool side and not too dry; and we don't overly heat on house (a sabbatical in England got us used to wearing sweaters if it was chilly!), keeping the thermostat ~66 or so.

Thanks Millerwill. My temp is a few degrees warmer than that. Just trying to find a common link to the problem with the smudges but I'm not really having much luck finding one.

Originally posted by millerwill
I got my 6163 the first week of August, i.e., one of the early ones, and it has had ZERO problems: no 'smudges', blinking lights, etc., etc. I think that there are so many of these out there, and that one naturally hears about the problems, that one thinks that a large fraction have problems. In fact, I think that my experience is much more the case, and one just doesn't hear as much when there are no problems.

But, the 6163 is still the same; i.e., yours will not have the HD2+ chip or a different screen. (The Samsung screen is OUTSTANDING; I hope they never change it!)

Thanks, millerwill.

Originally posted by htwaits

Thank you, htwaits.

Originally posted by wdang
Thank you, htwaits.
You're welcome. Enjoy.

Originally posted by millerwill
htwaitts: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)
Can one idiot protect other idiots? ;)

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

htwaits: Thanks VERY MUCH for your very clear and detailed guide, holding my hand through the SM! I was able to get there and change gamma to 0 without destroying everthing else in sight. And I agree, I do think it is somewhat sharper and more crisp. I am holding off doing an ISF since I have a deal with my MagHiFi for the option to swap my 6163 for a 6197 when they come out this March (the current schedule). After I settle that issue, I think I will follow you and try to get Seth to do an ISF.

Interestingly, the only difference I had in the main SM menu from you is #10, the firmware; mine is 1024 instead of your 1011. Not sure of the significance of this. I got my 6163 in the first week of August (MagHiFi in Emeryville). Again, thanks for your generous help in this (and other) advice over the last 11 months (I discovered the AVS Forum this last January).

Originally posted by millerwill

Interestingly, the only difference I had in the main SM menu from you is #10, the firmware; mine is 1024 instead of your 1011. Not sure of the significance of this.

It just means that Samsung has upgraded the firmware between building mine and building yours. The sets in the stores now probably have a higher version number.

Part of my deal at Magnolia was an upgrade that I'm giving a pass. Issues unrelated to PQ are going to keep me at 50" for now.

Originally posted by swest
I did, and they will. Whoo hoo!

Thanks. I would probably have just suffered in silence but for your nudging.:)

Excellent! That is great to hear. I could not "settle" with a stuck mirror.

HT Waits: Your UM settings and mine are almost identical except I keep contrast down between 80-85 but it's always pretty dark in my room and use all fluorescent bulbs. I haven't even been in the SM yet on this set (5063) but I'm going to go in and change gamma to 0 and check it out. I do have a very slight green tint when using cinema mode. I hope that will help.

Originally posted by millerwill
Not precisely sure of the temp/humidity. We live in the north Berkeley hills (not too high up), so the temp is mostly on the cool side and not too dry; and we don't overly heat on house (a sabbatical in England got us used to wearing sweaters if it was chilly!), keeping the thermostat ~66 or so. I live in Texas and it is bone dry now with very low humidity (40% and 41 degrees) and the smudges are still there when the set is first turned on. So I don't think it humidity related (IMHO).

I have had my hlp5063w since September. I was watching the tv and it just turned off and then starting flashing the 3 blinking lights. I let it sit for about one minute and then turned it back on. It worked fine for the rest of the night, about 4 hours of use. Does this sound like the normal 3bl situation? I have a call in to tech support. Thx for the feedback

Originally posted by AkaStp
htwaits, correct me if I'm wrong but if you change any of the picture settings (contrast, brightness, etc.) in any of the preset modes (standard, cinema, dynamic) then those presets are no longer valid and you effectively have created a user/custom setting. So, in your list of picture settings for Cinema mode you have overridden the default and so it is no longer in Cinema mode. You could make the settings to Standard and Dynamic with the same results, right?



This is not the case. If you set Cinema and Standard exactly the same way (same brightness, contrast, etc), they look completely different. Cinema, for example doesn't let you adjust the color temperature, it is fixed. Cinema is the most technically accurate setting to use although at first glance it's also the darkest and least appealing.

You are correct, that once you change the settings in any of the Picture modes they are saved. Of course if you want to go back to the factory settings there is a reset option right on the same screen which only resets the current picture mode.

Originally posted by KevInSoCal
I have had my hlp5063w since September. I was watching the tv and it just turned off and then starting flashing the 3 blinking lights. I let it sit for about one minute and then turned it back on. It worked fine for the rest of the night, about 4 hours of use. Does this sound like the normal 3bl situation? I have a call in to tech support. Thx for the feedback

Hey Keven.

I have a similar problem, where the set shuts OFF after it heats up. Not predictably or repeatably but often several times in a 3 hr period.

Sammy service arranged for local "authorized" service who showed up with a dolly, ready to take my set, not ready to do anything else. After attempting to get them to come back and do an "in house" service (i.e. replace the thing that shuts off the set when it get hot) we agreed to part company. I was not willing to give up the set for an indeterminate time while they might or might-not be able to reproduce the problem. My set has plenty of clearance, all around too.

I have placed a small, quiet fan behind the set, blowing on the hot spot... problem solved for now.

Most of the time when the set shuts OFF I can immediately turn it right back on. A very few times, the 3BL occurred, which required letting the set cool longer and unplugging it for 20-30 seconds, to reset something (I think).

Does anyone know if there is an internal fan? I have followed the Sammy posts since HLM and this issue is confused... the light engine has a spinning color wheel which sounds like a fan and I suspect some have assumed that sound is a fan... but I could not detect other fan-like sound and there is no filter, which I would expect given that blowing dust around inside an RP can't be a good idea.

Any other comments?
Thanks

Originally posted by AkaStp
I wanted to leave the Standard and Cinema settings alone so I could revert to them if needed. So, as I couldn't stand the preset Dynamic setting I decided to use it as the basis to create a Custom setting and adjusted the Contrast, Brightness, etc. I couldn't get the desired results.

I used Cinema because I thought I had read here at AVS that it's gray scale was closest to 6,500K. I have the impression that Dynamic's gray scale is extremely high and that Standard is somewhere in the middle.

I think that what you want to do would require an ISF type calibration of the "Dynamic Mode".

The person to ask or do a search on is Cheezmo. He is an ISF Certified technician and contributes to the HLP5674W/HLP4674W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=466328)

Originally posted by htwaits
I used Cinema because I thought I had read here at AVS that it's gray scale was closest to 6,500K. I have the impression that Dynamic's gray scale is extremely high and that Standard is somewhere in the middle.

I'm not sure that I agree with this guess.

I can confirm that on my 5674, the same settings on Cinema and Standard do produce different looking pictures.

My understanding is that warm1, warm2, cool1, cool2, etc. control the gray scale temperature. I believe that the forum's consensus is that Warm1 is closest to 6500K. Strangely enough I did see a reference to Warm2 producing accurate results in a Samsung brochure but I haven't tried it.

I'm not in front of the set now, but my memory is that Cinema turns off the gray scale temperature selection. It always uses Warm1 (I think).

My current theory to explain the difference between Cinema and Standard at the same settings is that the Color Decoder algorithm is different and the total gray scale range is different. Cinema is a more accurate decoder and is meant for viewing in low light situations. Standard is similar to the appearance of most TVs and works in bright light and low light. (Under this theory, and based on the brochure, Dynamic is for dealer's showroom light only).

I've used DVE and Cinema to set the DVI input at 720p from my Bravo D2. It makes movies on DVD look great.

I also used DVE via Component to set that input for both Cinema and Standard modes. Then I switched that input back to the HD STB (Moto 6208) and decided that Standard looked more TV like with HDTV signals. I also tweaked the settings 1 or 2 places by eye on Standard. So now I've got a picture that "looks good" for HDTV to my eye.

As always, YMMV.

I, too, would like some feedback from someone like an ISF tech or a Samsung engineer who can actually explain how Cinema/Standard differs from Warm1/Warm2/Cool1/Cool2, etc.

Brad

At this point I would find it very difficult to comment on which color temp might be closest or what the differences between Cinema/Standard are. There are so many firmware versions out there (from 1011 to 1035 at least on the HL-P5063) and they don't seem to have any qualms about changing things significantly in each version (just compare the service menus). What is right for one revision might not be for another. As a calibrator, I almost have to treat each one as a new chassis.

Originally posted by jaime2221
Hey Keven.


Does anyone know if there is an internal fan? I have followed the Sammy posts since HLM and this issue is confused... the light engine has a spinning color wheel which sounds like a fan and I suspect some have assumed that sound is a fan... but I could not detect other fan-like sound and there is no filter, which I would expect given that blowing dust around inside an RP can't be a good idea.

Any other comments?
Thanks

Yes, there is a fan. When I turn off my tv I can hear the color wheel spin down and I can faintly hear the fan continue to run for a short period of time after that.

Originally posted by bbalfour
I'm not sure that I agree with this guess.

At least in part I think you do. :)

I... my memory is that Cinema turns off the gray scale temperature selection. It always uses Warm1 (I think).

Which should give Cinema a reasonable gray scale.

Cinema is a more accurate decoder and is meant for viewing in low light situations.

That's why I used it for the DVI input which is connected to our HTPC.

For the reasons stated by Cheezmo (above), I'll be making an appointment with SethS today to have our HLP5063 calibrated.

Originally posted by bbalfour
I'm not sure that I agree with this guess.

Originally posted by htwaits
At least in part I think you do.
OK. Right. :D

I do agree about Warm<x> and Cool<x> controlling the gray scale temperature.

Originally posted by bbalfour
... my memory is that Cinema turns off the gray scale temperature selection. It always uses Warm1 (I think).

Originally posted by htwaits
Which should give Cinema a reasonable gray scale.

I agree with this assuming that I remember right that Cinema must always use Warm1.

The question I still have though is what is the difference using Standard and Warm1. Does that also give a reasonable gray scale close to 6500K? If so, what explains the picture difference?

I'm still guessing that there is a color decoder factor in this somewhere.

Anyone know someone who knows someone at Samsung engineering? I'd be nice to stop guessing.

Brad

Originally posted by bbalfour

The question I still have though is what is the difference using Standard and Warm1. Does that also give a reasonable gray scale close to 6500K? If so, what explains the picture difference?

I'm still guessing that there is a color decoder factor in this somewhere.

Beats me. I would like to know too.

I posted this question in a separate thread, but maybe regulars here might have something substantial to add on this issue(you can followup on this thread or that, depending on what you think is appropriate):

Progressive inputs and Zoom modes (Samsung DLP & perhaps other HDTVs) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4815830)

bump

Originally posted by chinman
if anyone gets this that owns an HLP6163W please call me ASAP
i tried orangekid's service menu settings and now my pic is all screwed up looking

you will have to read me your settings over the phone
reward will be given for a successful fix

thanks


Can't help you as I have an HLP4674W, but the moral of the story for everyone out there is to write down all defaults in the service menu prior to changing anything. I think there used to be a document floating around out there with all the HLN settings, but I imagine there are some differences.

I just received my new 56 and it is Grenn Green Green. Also the pic is horrible with dvd with a ton of noise and "painting". The tech came out today and his supervisor is coming tomorrow because he was unable to fix it. I am really disappointed.

Originally posted by wingnut4772
I just received my new 56 and it is Grenn Green Green. Also the pic is horrible with dvd with a ton of noise and "painting". The tech came out today and his supervisor is coming tomorrow because he was unable to fix it. I am really disappointed.

Wait till you see your checking account or your credit card bill! Then you might see RED to balance the green.:D :rolleyes:

Hope it gets fixed. I would have the store you purchased from replace the whole unit.

I to had the green problem your speaking of. I tried many diff settings and even got into sm but nothing helped. I returned the set to sears for another 4663 and right out of the box the picture was perfect for me.I havent changed one setting in dynamic cinema or standard.I never contacted samsung to have someone try to fix.My set was only a week old and it was driving me nuts.So if this is something driving you crazy id just do a swap and hope you have luck like me

bump

Originally posted by chinman
temtexdent aka kirk,
if u could remove my phone number from your post i would greatly appreciate that

thanks You could try the "Report this post to a moderator" link under that post. Maybe the mods will help you out and edit the post for you...

I return my HLP 5663W manfactured Oct and got a 5663W manufactured NOV and still have green. Green tint is so bad. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by bent98
I return my HLP 5663W manfactured Oct and got a 5663W manufactured NOV and still have green. Green tint is so bad. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
I have had two HLP5063 sets with builds of May (firmware 1011) and October (firmware 1035). I haven't had a problem with green with either one.

How do you have your TV setup and what input devices are you using?

I have Comcast and an Motorola 6200 for TV. The STB is outputting 720p with 480i override off connected with a DVI/HDMI cable to HDMI on the set.

I'm using my computer and TheaterTek outputting 720p for DVD movies connected through DVI.

The second HLP5063 arrived yesterday and it still has it's OTB settings. I use Cinema mode and set sharpness to zero. I have also turned off Digital NR and DNIe. I haven't changed gamma which is set to 2.

I had the first HLP5063 set to zero but I think I'll just leave this one alone until it's ISF calibrated late in January.

Yesterday afternoon I watched clips from several films and didn't notice any green, red, or yellow push. I'm using P. Size = Expand to watch movies which reduces the over scan produced by Wide (TV).

It's possible you would see green on my set or I might not see green on yours. It's also possible that the green push that you are seeing is coming from your input devices, cables, or TV user settings.

Among the clips I used are The Fifth Element, Nemo, Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia, Sing'n In The Rain, Austin Powers, Moulin Rouge, and Rabbit-Proof Fence.

I entered the SM and lived to tell about! Following htwaits step by step instructions I entered the SM on my 5063 to reduce the gamma to zero. My set is an April build I believe. The firmware is 1011 and the gamma was set at 8. I reduced it to 0. Haven't watched it enough to know if made a difference I like or not. Thanks htwaits for the guidance. I will say being in there is rather seductive. The temptation to "poke" around was great until I remembered the anguished cries of those who did "poke" around and ended up totally screwed. Didn't take me long to make my change and get out.

I did check my lamp hours and was a little surprised to see had topped 1000 hours. I have had the set right at 6 months. Did a little figuring and averages out to between 5-6 hours/day. When you figure in how long the set is on over the weekends it sounds about right for me

I tried alot of different settings. DVD is Panny s97 over HDMI, SAT is HD 811 going DVI, xbox is Component. Terrible green push. I tried setting gamma to 0 from factory 2. Not much of a difference. A great way to see green is to put a THX test pattern in and look at the greyscale. There is green all over the gey pattern, This is really pissing me off. After spending over $3000 I should not have to stress about this.

Originally posted by Gojhawks
I entered the SM and lived to tell about!

I'm glad you survived. :cool:

My set is an April build I believe. The firmware is 1011 and the gamma was set at 8.

My first set was built in May and also had firmware 1011. I changed gamma from six to zero and liked the results after using the DVE disk to set brightness. It's interesting that the HLPxx63 sets can have different settings OTB even if the firmware version is the same. That was very true of the HLM and HLN sets.

The temptation to "poke" around was great until I remembered the anguished cries of those who did "poke" around and ended up totally screwed. Didn't take me long to make my change and get out.

I think it's save enough to record SM settings if you avoid using the right or left arrow keys when you are pointing at a variable. I also learned that the "menu" key is the safest way to back out.

Enjoy

Well the Tech from samsung came and replace the whole light engine. Guess what. Same damn green push. This is 2nd TV and now a light engine. He doesnt know what issue can be. I will speak to his boss on Monday. Man all this money and no one has a clue.

OK, I took the plunge, joined you guys, and purchased a HL-P5063W. Lots of questions on how best to set up, etc. Is is ok to ask these on this thread, a new thread, or is there a FAQ/sticky somewhere? Thanks!

Welcome to the club! You might want to try posting here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=482301
as it is specifically for the HL-Pxx63 series . Enjoy the new toy.

Thanks, but I was hoping to find some general newbie tips on setting up the 5063.

The CC guys just delivered the TV. To test it with them here, I attached a simple DVD player using a new component cable and then played a movie. I didn't make any changes to the TV other than to search for the signal. I wasn't able to enable progressive output on my DVD player--unless it defaults to that when used with a component cable. The movie began to play and the CC guys left.

I watched the whole moving through. The video was good but not great.

So now that I'm about to formally set this puppy up, I thought I'd check here to see if there was a user-produced online setup guide of sorts. :^)

If nothing else, I'll sit down and read through the manual. :^O

CGwater: Put a THX test disc in. Take a look at the grey scale. Any green?

Antenna 2 Input Question

Has anyone used the Antenna 2 input? I normally use Antenna 1 for my Comcast input, but today I put another cable feed on Ant 2 and it didn't show up as one of the inputs. I moved the main cable feed from Ant 1 to Ant 2 and still not working. I turned the TV on and off and the TV still didn't detect Antenna 2. Is there something I have to do in the Setup Menu to get Antenna 2 to work?

Just a question, are you sure you were using ANT 2 and not ANT 1 out? ANT 2 is on the bottom. I've never used anything but DVI and HDMI on mine, I don't even know if the sound works.

Yes. I was able to pull the TV out enough to see the inputs just to make sure that I was using ANT 2 IN. In fact, ANT 1 OUT (the middle connector) seems to have a guard on the left side; I thought this was so you wouldn't mistake it for an input. I can work around it, but everything else on the set works so I'm surprised that ANT 2 IN doesn't.

Reply to green hell, who writes that he has severe green tint. Strange as this may sound, try reversing the green and blue leads at the back of your set (assuming that you're hooked up via component vid cables.

No Happends over HDMI, DVI, and component. Here is a picture of greyscale problem.

Gojhawks, htwaits or anyone else with firmware 1011. If you've recorded your settings or are thinking about it maybe you can post them? I've had my HLP5063W for a while and have poked around in the SM. I believe I've always set things back to the defaults but I'd like to check for sure. I know there's a spreadsheet floating around but it's missing 1011...

On another note My Ant2 in doesn't seem to work either, unless I'm missing something.

Originally posted by Ball
I've had my HLP5063W for a while and have poked around in the SM.
Les, where are you? Here's another to add to your list:

Originally posted by htwaits
"looking around"
"fooling around"
"messing around"

All of the above "male" hobbies lead to trouble in the SM. :)

Originally posted by rshaw
Antenna 2 Input Question

Has anyone used the Antenna 2 input? I normally use Antenna 1 for my Comcast input, but today I put another cable feed on Ant 2 and it didn't show up as one of the inputs. I moved the main cable feed from Ant 1 to Ant 2 and still not working. I turned the TV on and off and the TV still didn't detect Antenna 2. Is there something I have to do in the Setup Menu to get Antenna 2 to work?

I played with this and I don't remember exactly but I think there was a since "source" for antenna and if you wanted use ANT2 for that "source" you had to go into the menu and select it instead of ANT1. There definitely was not a unique source (using the source button on the remote) for ANT1 verses ANT2.

Originally posted by timclark
I played with this and I don't remember exactly but I think there was a since "source" for antenna and if you wanted use ANT2 for that "source" you had to go into the menu and select it instead of ANT1. There definitely was not a unique source (using the source button on the remote) for ANT1 verses ANT2.

This is correct Tim. You have to go through the menu to change from ANT1 to Ant2. I'm using both. I use ANT1 for analog SD (better picture with feed directly from splitter at the wall) and using ANT2 for digital stations thru the cable box.

Haven't had any problems with the tv recognizing ANT2.

Originally posted by Ball
Gojhawks, htwaits or anyone else with firmware 1011. If you've recorded your settings or are thinking about it maybe you can post them?
Sorry. I don't have the 1011 set anymore. Remember that there can be variations in SM settings for the same firmware version.

Originally posted by swest
Les, where are you? Here's another to add to your list:
I guess it is a list if it goes past three entries. :)

Originally posted by htwaits
Sorry. I don't have the 1011 set anymore. Remember that there can be variations in SM settings for the same firmware version.

True - I was just looking for a sanity check. Thanks!

Ok. Crutchfield is picking up this HLP56 and delivering me a new one. Hopefully the green will go bye bye. I have also had a synch problem big time. Gotta hand it to Crutchfield though. They have been great. They have certainly removed my fear of on-line purchasing big ticket items...at least from them anyway. Wish me luck!

a quick question:

Does the video delay thing apply to all sets or just some? I ordered the HLP6163W. I'm speaking specifically of watching TV, with sound coming through a receiver. I have comcast digital cable, with the motorola HD receiver (not sure about model number), connected thru component video to my current TV. I have an optical cable going from the cable box to my Onkyo receiver (the one that comes with that HTS770 HTIB package.) Will there always be lag between the sound and the picture?

If so, I think I will have to cancel my order on this TV. Damn! :(
Would the Toshiba DLP be better?

Originally posted by steel102
a quick question:

Does the video delay thing apply to all sets or just some? I ordered the HLP6163W. I'm speaking specifically of watching TV, with sound coming through a receiver. I have comcast digital cable, with the motorola HD receiver (not sure about model number), connected thru component video to my current TV. I have an optical cable going from the cable box to my Onkyo receiver (the one that comes with that HTS770 HTIB package.) Will there always be lag between the sound and the picture?

If so, I think I will have to cancel my order on this TV. Damn! :(
Would the Toshiba DLP be better?

As for audio delay on the 6163. I have that set also. Its very dependent on the source. When watching CNN, the tralking heads are synce but sometimes when it goes to commercials the sync is off. With the Star Wars DVD (the 1st movie New Hope) the delay from my Denon 2910 to the 6163 via DVI or HDMI upscaled 720p ro 1080i makes the movie unwatchable. I definitely blame the source since with the Star Wars DVD, the deplay is also present on other single/micro chip displays. But the New Hope DVD when run thru my HTPC has no audio delays what ever, perfect sync with nada audio adjustments. Actually all source that I put thru the HTPC has no audio sync issues at all with the 6163.

Originally posted by Tinker
But the New Hope DVD when run thru my HTPC has no audio delays what ever, perfect sync with nada audio adjustments. Actually all source that I put thru the HTPC has no audio sync issues at all with the 6163.

That's because everything is going through the digital realm and not being converted to analog as with your other inputs.

I just found out that the motorola HD receiver has a DVI-out, so if I used that rather than component video, there should be no delay problems since it is all digital, correct?

Originally posted by Fedreams
That's because everything is going through the digital realm and not being converted to analog as with your other inputs.

Sorry but with the Denon 2910 DVD player, it upscales in the digital (inside the player) and transmit via either DVI or HDMI in digital to the Sammy which displays in digital (Sammy does not convert the digital input stream to analog then back to digital like some other DLP's do). Where is the analog in that stream :confused:

The following is just a layman's hope of understanding whats going on with audio sync issues and is not from any tech background. A lot of conjecture on my part so take it for what its worth.

IMO Its all the processing and/or in some cases lack off by the broadcasters that is being done to all the sources, thats the major issue. Its not totally 100% Sammy fault. When using the internal speakers in the Sammy, no sync issues. DLP technology like most microchip displays does have some lag but not to the point of it being noticeable on its own. Its a combination of all the factors that causes the sync issues.

When the vid and audio source is run thru something like a HTPC, both the vid and audio are processed at the same time. Timings are being handled by the computer and the sources are sync'd prior to output in most cases by the various software thats being used to do the processing. Not like with an external DVD player for example, where it is processing (be it upscaling or progressive conversion) the vid but the digital audio is not processed but sent directly to the AVR where then its processed, so where is the sync timing being done between the two. Then the processed vid is sent to the TV and the processed digital audio is sent from AVR to the speakers. Two separate devices to produces picture and sound. There isn't any sync between the two and thats the probm. Thats why on most newer AVR's they have audio delay features to handle this probm. Audio sync has always been an issue with broadcast TV. Some times they just don't do the require post processing need to correct the probm before they air. Tektronix has a whole paper on what they rec the broadcaster shld do to eliminate any sync issues. Prob most do not do it since its time and money.

I am not saying that DLP is not at fault here. Its just not 100% at fault. Every process in the link is cumulative.

Maybe the above is all cr@p. Just glad I am using a HTPC to do my HT thingy.....:D

I just got the HLP 4663 and sadly gave up my DirecTivo for the Comcast 6412 because I didn't want to drop the grand to get HD.

I can't get the two to work together when the box is set to 720p and and the signal is via the component inputs. There is a periodic flashing. 1080i works fine through component, and 720p works fine through DVI. But I'd like to try 720p through component because I mainly watch FOX and ESPN, both of which are 720p. I'm figuring PQ would be best if I'm not upconverting the signal to 1080i in the cable box and then downconverting it again in the TV.

I know I will be told to use the DVI input, but my wife is not a fan of switching inputs to go from DVD to cable (everything runs through the receiver). Plus if either the box or the TV is broken, I'd like to know. How can I diagnose which one is the problem, or is this a known flaw?

Originally posted by ntaylor
...How can I diagnose which one is the problem, or is this a known flaw?

It's a known issue with HLPs that's been posted by me and others (HLN owners do not see this). I could not output 720p from a moto 6200 (or my current moxi BMC9012), but I could via DVI. However, I believe others have stated that they do not have this problem with HLP/component/720p, so the fault may lie with Motorola.

Someone mentioned a hardware fix either in this thread or a similar one involving swapping out one of the boards, but personally that was too extreme for me and I'm just waiting now for the DVI port to be enabled on the moxi.

Originally posted by ntaylor
I'm figuring PQ would be best if I'm not upconverting the signal to 1080i in the cable box and then downconverting it again in the TV.
By using component you are adding a digital to analog conversion and on the other end an analog to digital conversion.

If you are willing to do that to use one input for DVD and HDTV through your A/V receiver then why are you worried about the very minor difference between 1080i and 720p over component input? :)

Originally posted by bruce73
It's a known issue with HLPs that's been posted by me and others (HLN owners do not see this). I could not output 720p from a moto 6200 (or my current moxi BMC9012), but I could via DVI. However, I believe others have stated that they do not have this problem with HLP/component/720p, so the fault may lie with Motorola.

Someone mentioned a hardware fix either in this thread or a similar one involving swapping out one of the boards, but personally that was too extreme for me and I'm just waiting now for the DVI port to be enabled on the moxi.

I have that same problem with both a Moto 6208 and 6412 boxes to the HL-P5674. 720p over component "works" but produces a wavy image. 1080i over component is very nice. DVI to DVI works at 720p.

Brad

If you are willing to do that to use one input for DVD and HDTV through your A/V receiver then why are you worried about the very minor difference between 1080i and 720p over component input?
That's a good point. With the Harmony 680 on order, maybe the switch to DVI and back will be a non-issue. I was mainly wondering if I had a bum unit. Thanks all for your responses, sounds like I'm not alone.

Originally posted by ntaylor
With the Harmony 680 on order, maybe the switch to DVI and back will be a non-issue.
I'm using a DVI>HDMI cable for my STB at 720p with 480i override OFF and a DVI cable at 720p for my HTPC (DVD movies). At some point I expect to get a Universal Remote like the Harmony. I might also switch my HDTV tuner from a STB to the HTPC to simplify even more.

If you get an upscaling DVD player then you could be "Harmony controlled" pure digital all the way which seems to be a big advantage for Samsung DLP sets.

Enjoy. :)

Originally posted by htwaits
I might also switch my HDTV tuner from a STB to the HTPC to simplify even more.


How are you going to set that up htwaits? Sounds interesting. Thanx.

Originally posted by 1Mark1
How are you going to set that up htwaits? Sounds interesting. Thanx.
I don't have a specific plan yet and it will be a while before I try it. Maybe before the next NFL season.

Here is an article on the topic. I have some questions about the setup in the article but it does go through a lot of issues. I'm not interested in gaming so my HTPC is a lot slower and cheaper than the one he builds.

Build Your Own Windows Media Center PC (http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1558,1741030,00.asp)

Reading now. Hehehe, on the page that says be a couch potatoe they are showing one of my favorite DVD's (Concert for George [Harrison])

Thanks for the link. Was already interseted in checking out the windows media center. Thats an expensive sound card he's using. Was thinking about piping my tv audio thru PC, it converts everything to 5.1 on the fly, I do have extra optical in and outs ports on everything.

Originally posted by Tinker
Sorry but with the Denon 2910 DVD player, it upscales in the digital (inside the player) and transmit via either DVI or HDMI in digital to the Sammy which displays in digital (Sammy does not convert the digital input stream to analog then back to digital like some other DLP's do). Where is the analog in that stream :confused:

The following is just a layman's hope of understanding whats going on with audio sync issues and is not from any tech background. A lot of conjecture on my part so take it for what its worth.

IMO Its all the processing and/or in some cases lack off by the broadcasters that is being done to all the sources, thats the major issue. Its not totally 100% Sammy fault. When using the internal speakers in the Sammy, no sync issues. DLP technology like most microchip displays does have some lag but not to the point of it being noticeable on its own. Its a combination of all the factors that causes the sync issues.

When the vid and audio source is run thru something like a HTPC, both the vid and audio are processed at the same time. Timings are being handled by the computer and the sources are sync'd prior to output in most cases by the various software thats being used to do the processing. Not like with an external DVD player for example, where it is processing (be it upscaling or progressive conversion) the vid but the digital audio is not processed but sent directly to the AVR where then its processed, so where is the sync timing being done between the two. Then the processed vid is sent to the TV and the processed digital audio is sent from AVR to the speakers. Two separate devices to produces picture and sound. There isn't any sync between the two and thats the probm. Thats why on most newer AVR's they have audio delay features to handle this probm. Audio sync has always been an issue with broadcast TV. Some times they just don't do the require post processing need to correct the probm before they air. Tektronix has a whole paper on what they rec the broadcaster shld do to eliminate any sync issues. Prob most do not do it since its time and money.

I am not saying that DLP is not at fault here. Its just not 100% at fault. Every process in the link is cumulative.

Maybe the above is all cr@p. Just glad I am using a HTPC to do my HT thingy.....:D

Sorry, my mistake I thought you were using The other inputs not DVI or HDMI. The interesting fact is that most HTPC have a separate audio and video card in them similar to the Samsung DLPs. But you noticed no lag in their video or audio sync. I am totally baffled. I would agree with you that it is not exclusively the Samsung.
I, too, have the HLP 6163 but have not noticed any sync problems but the language soundtracks from Cantonese to mandarin bothered me the other night while watching Jackie Chan's new movie. Good thing there were subtitiles.

htwaits,

Do you have Comcast for your HD? I have tried unsuccessfully to connect my Comcast Motorola HD Box to my HLP6163W via a DVI/HDMI cable. The TV searches but cannot find any signal. This is a bummer for me as I have a Denon DVD player hooked up to the DVI port. I tried to switch the cable box to the DVI/DVI port and it did work, however the Denon DVD player did not like the DVI/HDMI cable either (once again the TV found no signal). I was hoping to hook either the DVD or Cable box via DVI and the other through the DVI/HDMI cable. However neither will work with the DVI/HDMI cable. I am now thinking of trading in my Denon player for a DVD player that supports a HDMI output to the TV. Any thoughts?

Jeff

Originally posted by Jefftaz
htwaits,

Do you have Comcast for your HD? I have tried unsuccessfully to connect my Comcast Motorola HD Box to my HLP6163W via a DVI/HDMI cable. The TV searches but cannot find any signal. This is a bummer for me as I have a Denon DVD player hooked up to the DVI port. I tried to switch the cable box to the DVI/DVI port and it did work, however the Denon DVD player did not like the DVI/HDMI cable either (once again the TV found no signal). I was hoping to hook either the DVD or Cable box via DVI and the other through the DVI/HDMI cable. However neither will work with the DVI/HDMI cable. I am now thinking of trading in my Denon player for a DVD player that supports a HDMI output to the TV. Any thoughts?

Jeff

I'm very interested in the answer to this question as I just ordered a DVI-HDMI cable and was intending on connecting my Comcast STB to my TV using it.

I do have the 5085, however. Is this an issue with the x63 family DLPs only ??

Originally posted by Jefftaz
Do you have Comcast for your HD?

Yes. Motorola 6200. Two different HLP5063 sets with firmware 1011 ans 1035.

I have tried unsuccessfully to connect my Comcast Motorola HD Box to my HLP6163W via a DVI/HDMI cable.

I haven't had any trouble with either TV using the HDMI input from the "6200". I'm outputting 720p with 480i override OFF from the "6200".

The TV searches but cannot find any signal. This is a bummer for me as I have a Denon DVD player hooked up to the DVI port. I tried to switch the cable box to the DVI/DVI port and it did work, however the Denon DVD player did not like the DVI/HDMI cable either (once again the TV found no signal).

Maybe you have a defective DVI>HDMI cable or a defective HDMI port on your TV. I would suspect the cable first. That's an old computer strategy -- always suspect the cable first.

I was hoping to hook either the DVD or Cable box via DVI and the other through the DVI/HDMI cable.

There is no reason that I know of why you shouldn't be able to do that.

However neither will work with the DVI/HDMI cable.

Check the cable. :)

I am now thinking of trading in my Denon player for a DVD player that supports a HDMI output to the TV. Any thoughts?

I don't see a reason to do that before you find out what the problem really is.

Good luck.

Originally posted by MasterHoss
I'm very interested in the answer to this question as I just ordered a DVI-HDMI cable and was intending on connecting my Comcast STB to my TV using it.

There is no reason that I know about why you shouldn't be able to.

I do have the 5085, however. Is this an issue with the x63 family DLPs only ??

I don't think it's a HLP "issue". There is a long shot chance that it's a defective HDMI port but it's more likely it's a defective cable or a setup issue.

Back in August, when I first got my hlp6163, I tried to connect the Comcast stb via DVI (stb) --> HDMI (tv) with a Pacificcable DVI-HDMI; but it didn't work ('sparkles' everywhere). It worked perfectly fine DVI-DVI, so I have stayed with this even when the 6200 stb was replaced by the 6412. I haven't tried the DVI-HDMI connection with the 6412, so can't really claim that IT doesn't work.

Htwaits,

Thanks for your reply, I have the exact same Motorola box as you.
I did some deep searches today and saw mention that there have been issues with Pacificable DVI-HDMI cables.
I have a Pacificable DVI-DVI cable and that works fine.
What brand of DVI-HDMI cable are you using with your cable box?
I think it may just be a bad/incompatible cable that is causing my troubles !

Jeff

Originally posted by Jefftaz
I did some deep searches today and saw mention that there have been issues with Pacificable DVI-HDMI cables.
I have a Pacificable DVI-DVI cable and that works fine.
What brand of DVI-HDMI cable are you using with your cable box?
I think it may just be a bad/incompatible cable that is causing my troubles !
It could be. My DVI cable is from Pacific Cable and the HDMI to DVI cable is from Blue Jeans Cable.

I looked at Blue Jean's site but the smallest DVI/HDMI cable was 15 feet !
Is yours that length or smaller?

Thanks

From Pacificcable you can get a 1 meter or 2 meter DVI-HDMI cable for ~ $30.

Originally posted by Jefftaz
I looked at Blue Jean's site but the smallest DVI/HDMI cable was 15 feet !
Is yours that length or smaller?

Thanks
Mine is two meters (6').

I switched to Blue Jeans because their shipping is cheaper when I bought a cable for our sub-woofer.

I have all my other Internet purchases in one folder but I can't find the one for a 2 meter HDMI to DVI cable. I must have bought it at Pacific Cables (http://www.pacificcable.com/).

So I just got my 5685 a few days ago and have finally gotten around to hooking up my xbox for some good old halo playing (i like the original more than 2). But anyway, when i started playing there was lag or something. It's not extremely noticeable, but it is enough that when your lining somone up in your sights, it throws you off just enough so that they get away. Has anyone else found this problem? Does anyone know how/if it can be fixed? I've read a few posts in the past about DLP having this problem, but i hadnt noticed any posts about the kirk having it. Anyone help would be great. thanks

Originally posted by Flyonn
So I just got my 5685 a few days ago and have finally gotten around to hooking up my xbox for some good old halo playing (i like the original more than 2). But anyway, when i started playing there was lag or something. It's not extremely noticeable, but it is enough that when your lining somone up in your sights, it throws you off just enough so that they get away. Has anyone else found this problem? Does anyone know how/if it can be fixed? I've read a few posts in the past about DLP having this problem, but i hadnt noticed any posts about the kirk having it. Anyone help would be great. thanks

From what I have read, there is no current fix for the "lag issue" caused by the Samsung upscaling. All 480i x-box games will have this issue to some extent when timing is important. The only improvement that has been noted is with the X-box high definition AV pack and 480p games. Other game systems have this issue with DLP TV's.

Hope this helps.

Flyonn,

I have played Halo on my HLP6163W and have not noticed any lag. I have my X-box connected through the high definition pack and play most games at 480p. I also play football and golf games that require precise timing and never had any issues, even over X-box Live.

Htwaits,

My DVI/HDMI cable is from Pacificcables as well.
I tried your suggestion of 720p with 480i override OFF from the cable box. I still got no signal. However I did get a signal through the DVI/HDMI cable on 480p. I am thinking that my HLP6163W has issues with 720p signals.

I just recently got the HLP6163W to replace my HLN507W that was downstairs. With the HLN507W I had the cable box set to output 720p and it worked great. However when the delivery guys from Soundtrack came to deliver and setup the HLP6163W they could not get it to accept 720p from the cable box. They told me that the issue was with the cable provider and to give them a call. I called out Comcast as I hoped to have the HD signal sent trough at 720p as that is the native resolution for the Samsung DLP sets. The Comcast service tech could not get the TV to accept the 720p signal either (over component or DVI). He set it to 1080i which the TV did accept and went on to tell me that 720p is not high def and 1080i is actually the setting to use if I was after a high def picture. Just to double check I moved my high def cable box upstairs where the HLN 507W now is and plugged it in, 720p worked fine on the 507W !

I am very confused right now, shouldn't 720p work fine on the HLP6163W?
I cannot get 720p over any connection (component or DVI).

Right now I can get:
1080i only over component (1 or 2) from the cable box.
1080i only over a DVI/DVI connection from the cable box.
480p only over the DVI/HDMI connection from the cable box.

I am very confused - I never had these issues with the HLN507W.

Thoughts?

Jefftaz

I dont have the same HiDef box, I have a SA 8300HD PVR (and prev a 8000) and it outputs 480i, 480p, , 480i widescreen, 480p widescreen, 720p and 1060i. The 6163 supports them all via component. Also I have a Denon 2910 DVD player that upscales to 720p and 1080i and the 6163 accepts both too via HDMI. I send HTPC some times at 1280x720 via DVI and the 6163 accepts that too. So its not the 6163.

Originally posted by Jefftaz
I am very confused right now, shouldn't 720p work fine on the HLP6163W?

Yes. You may have a defective HDMI port on your HLP set. I would as the dealer to exchange the set.

Jefftaz:

Just to add from my experience: when I first got my HLP-5063, I had it connected to a Motorola 6200 via component. It would not accept 720p output (the "kid" who installed it also said that 720p wasn't hidef, which is why it had to be set at 1080i...I stopped asking him questions after that...:rolleyes: ). I switched to DVI and I was able to ouput 720p. I can also output 720p via HDMI from my Denon 2910,

I'm now on a Motorola BMC9012 (moxi) and I have the same problem: no 720p output via component (the DVI isn't yet enabled on this box, so I can't test that). I was told a while back that this is a limitation with the HLP series, but since others have no problem with SA STBs at 720p via component, perhaps it is an issue with Motorola instead.

Posted in another thread, but wanted to see if anyone from this thread has seen this:

Aright, hopefully this is an isolated incident. Bought the 4674 1 week ago (btw, the HLN467 lasted 7 days last February)

The problem, it has frozen 3 times now. 2 times the color gets grainy, like your watching it in 16 or less colors, very distorted and digitized. When it does this the remote stops communicating with the TV, power off doesn't work, even the buttons on the side.

The other time, the set just stopped showing video, again no remote or side controls.

The remote does make one of the lights on the front flash, indicating the a remote is sending something.

When I power cycle the system, it goes back to working condition. What gives, do I have a lemon? Has anyone else seen this, on either the 46" 56" or the 63 series?

Thanks

bruce73,

It looks like the issue may be with the Motorola cable box. However it will not output 720p over DVI/DVI either just 1080i. Also the DVI/HDMI will only output 480p.

That worries me a bit.

I have already swapped out my cable box thinking that may have caused the problem, but the new cable box with the latest firmware is doing the same thing.

Originally posted by Jefftaz
...However it will not output 720p over DVI/DVI either just 1080i. Also the DVI/HDMI will only output 480p.


Hmmm, I was definitely able to output 720p via DVI from the moto DCT-6200 that Adelphia supplied. I have no idea what firmware, but this was up to about 2 mos. ago when I switched to the BMC9012 DVR.

Can't recall if you mentioned this, but are you able to test the DVI/HDMI ports of your set any other way to rule out any problems with them?

ntaylor writes, in part: "I can't get the two to work together when the box is set to 720p and and the signal is via the component inputs. "

Try leaving your 6412 box on the default setting of 1080 all the time. The HLP sets automatically convert all programs to required resolution.

Originally posted by RickDias
... And is there any way to get it to forever ignore the antenna input? Any info/ideas would be appreciated.
This was asked months ago but no answer then. I don't want it to be forever disabled, just have it cycle through the actual live sources connected to it. Nothing is connected to the antenna 1 or 2 inputs but it still includes it as a source.
Thanks

Originally posted by Jefftaz
Htwaits,

My DVI/HDMI cable is from Pacificcables as well.
I tried your suggestion of 720p with 480i override OFF from the cable box. I still got no signal. However I did get a signal through the DVI/HDMI cable on 480p. I am thinking that my HLP6163W has issues with 720p signals.

I just recently got the HLP6163W to replace my HLN507W that was downstairs. With the HLN507W I had the cable box set to output 720p and it worked great. However when the delivery guys from Soundtrack came to deliver and setup the HLP6163W they could not get it to accept 720p from the cable box. They told me that the issue was with the cable provider and to give them a call. I called out Comcast as I hoped to have the HD signal sent trough at 720p as that is the native resolution for the Samsung DLP sets. The Comcast service tech could not get the TV to accept the 720p signal either (over component or DVI). He set it to 1080i which the TV did accept and went on to tell me that 720p is not high def and 1080i is actually the setting to use if I was after a high def picture. Just to double check I moved my high def cable box upstairs where the HLN 507W now is and plugged it in, 720p worked fine on the 507W !

I am very confused right now, shouldn't 720p work fine on the HLP6163W?
I cannot get 720p over any connection (component or DVI).

Right now I can get:
1080i only over component (1 or 2) from the cable box.
1080i only over a DVI/DVI connection from the cable box.
480p only over the DVI/HDMI connection from the cable box.

I am very confused - I never had these issues with the HLN507W.

Thoughts?

I'm in the process of returning my second DVI-HDMI cable back to pacificcables.com. I had the same symptom where 1080i and 720p won't work but 480p would.

I got an e-mail on 12/25 from Dave in their tech support group reporting that they found a new problem with their latest cables. He claims that a drain/ground wire in the cable isn't connected properly.

I've already ordered a different dvi-hdmi cable from svideo.com. I'll see how that goes.

Brad

Originally posted by Migaman
This was asked months ago but no answer then. I don't want it to be forever disabled, just have it cycle through the actual live sources connected to it. Nothing is connected to the antenna 1 or 2 inputs but it still includes it as a source.
Thanks
I'm at work now so I'm just guessing, but would this have something to do with PIP? Even if it's turned off onscreen, perhaps the set still goes to it (i.e. ANT1) because it's chosen in the setup as the PIP source.

Let me know if you get a working HDMI/DVI cable. I just bought one at www.monoprices.com. around $10. I am waiting for sony XS 55 tv, returned my sammy 5663W. I wont get TV till at least thursday. I will let you know what happends then. In mean time please respond back with your results.

Originally posted by bruce73
I'm at work now so I'm just guessing, but would this have something to do with PIP? Even if it's turned off onscreen, perhaps the set still goes to it (i.e. ANT1) because it's chosen in the setup as the PIP source.
I have the PIP set to s-video from the receiver to do audio config without switching away from the DVI (HDtivo) and the HDMI (Samsung 941). Nothing is connected to the ant1 or ant2.

Originally posted by Migaman
I have the PIP set to s-video from the receiver to do audio config without switching away from the DVI (HDtivo) and the HDMI (Samsung 941). Nothing is connected to the ant1 or ant2.
OK, that settles that, then, sorry. :( I just thought (trying to remember back when I first got my set) that the default setting for PIP was ANT1 and it would still go to it even if nothing were connected to the port.

It looks like I'm going to need to have the LE replaced on my HLP5663W. One questionmy set was professionally callibrated and I was wondering whether the LE will affect the callibration (I would hate to have to get the set recallibrated!). Anyone have any thoughts?

Originally posted by RMSko
It looks like I'm going to need to have the LE replaced on my HLP5663W. One questionmy set was professionally callibrated and I was wondering whether the LE will affect the callibration (I would hate to have to get the set recallibrated!). Anyone have any thoughts?
The light engine is what you had calibrated. The calibration information is stored in the digital board so you may not lose your settings. It would be a good idea to record all the SM settings before the repair if you can.

If you can restore the calibrated SM settings the set might not be as good as the old one but it might be better than OTB.

Originally posted by htwaits
The light engine is what you had calibrated. The calibration information is stored in the digital board so you may not lose your settings. It would be a good idea to record all the SM settings before the repair if you can.

If you can restore the calibrated SM settings the set might not be as good as the old one but it might be better than OTB. Very helpful, thanks. What's interesting is that calibration only affects one setting in the SM (D-White-X and D-White-Y on page 8 of the SM), the other changes are to the User Menu, which is easy enough to change.

Originally posted by RMSko
What's interesting is that calibration only affects one setting in the SM (D-White-X and D-White-Y on page 8 of the SM), the other changes are to the User Menu, which is easy enough to change.
I'm surprised.

I don't know the details involved in an ISF calibration but for someone clueless like me it sounds like the gray scale was pretty good OTB.

Originally posted by htwaits
I'm surprised.

I don't know the details involved in an ISF calibration but for someone clueless like me it sounds like the gray scale was pretty good OTB.

I was a bit surprised also, but the person who did the calibration is excellent (Kevin Miller of ISF) and well known in the industry. I have to admit that it made a huge difference after he did the calibration so if I end up with a new LE, I'll see how it looks, but I may have to have him out again. As for the User Menu changes, the only change that is relevant is the brightness setting and he gave me a DVD to determine that correct level.

Well I am still having issues with my HLP6163W and Comcast Cable.
I just noticed that at 1080i (the only signal the TV will accept from the Motorola 6200) the picture will not stretch to fit the entire screen.
I have made sure that the TV is set to Wide mode and the cable box is at 16:9.
On my HLN507W these settings would stretch the picture to fit the entire screen.

Does anyone have an opinion if I am dealing with a bad TV set?
Shouldn't the 720p work through component and DVI connections?
Also why won't the TV stretch the picture to fit the entire screen?
I know that these features should work as they work flawlessly on my HLN.

Thanks,

Jeff

Contact an authorized Samsung repair center. I believe the Motorola 720p incompatibility is a known issue that can be corrected. Have them check for service bulletins on your set.

I am buying a 5063. I will need a special cabinet made. Can anyone give me the base outline dimensions including the taper details? Thanks.

Check out the Samsung site. http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLP5063WX%2fXAA Then click on technical drawing. It has all of the dimensions.

Originally posted by Jefftaz
I just noticed that at 1080i (the only signal the TV will accept from the Motorola 6200) the picture will not stretch to fit the entire screen.

How is the 6200 connected? I have no trouble using 720P with 480i override off and a DVI to HDMI cable (HLP5063).

I have made sure that the TV is set to Wide mode and the cable box is at 16:9.

What about 480i override? Is it off?

On my HLN507W these settings would stretch the picture to fit the entire screen.

Are you referring to SD images? Are they from analog or digital channels?

I don't know this for sure but it seems that Camcast supplies a 16x9 image with the black bars included for SD programming that is 4x3. The TV thinks it's getting a HD 16x9 image.

Shouldn't the 720p work through component and DVI connections?

Mine does.

Also why won't the TV stretch the picture to fit the entire screen?

Can you provide more details about what type picture you want to fill the whole screen -- 4x3 images or DVD movies that are wider than 16x9(1.77:1)?

I want the image it be in it's original aspect mode so I don't try to get rid of black bars that make that possible.

What I can't figure out from your post is whether you are trying to stretch all images to fill your screen or if you have a set that doesn't fill your 16x9 screen with a 16x9 HDTV image.
[/B]

Ref: 5063 dimensions
Thank you, that pdf provided a lot of information.

However I still need one more dimension - The set width in the rear, not at the base actually but at the widest point.

Originally posted by Jefftaz
...Shouldn't the 720p work through component and DVI connections?...

According to this post (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=88114&postcount=14) from the HDTVoice.com forum, Samsung is putting the blame with the 720p/component output problem on Motorola. The thread concerns the moto 6208, but since I had the same problem with the 6200, as well as the moto BMC9012 (moxi), it appears to be a problem with Motorola STBs in general.

Here is an explanation of the stretch mode that I am referring to...
With the HLN507W I was able to connect the Comcast Motorola 6200 through component (DVI was taken by the DVD player) via 720p. I had the TV set to Wide mode and the cable box to 16x9, The 4:3 override was off (Htwaits is this what you are referring to as the 480i off?). When I was watching HD programs it would fill the entire screen except for the 4:3 HD material which would show up with black bars on either side. However when I went down into the analog channels ( channel 2 - 50 etc...) the picture also filled up the entire TV screen. It was not high def but it did stretch to fill the entire screen area.

Now with the HLP6163W going over component via 1080i this no longer happens. The HD channels still fill the entire screen, however the lower channels all show up with the black bars on either side of the picture = 4:3 picture. Why would the HLN allow the picture to fill the entire screen on the lower channels and the HLP does not with the exact same settings?

P.S. Bruce73, thanks for the link. I will keep an eye on that post as well.

Originally posted by Phillip4346
Ref: 5063 dimensions
Thank you, that pdf provided a lot of information.

However I still need one more dimension - The set width in the rear, not at the base actually but at the widest point.

The vertical face at the bottom of the sloped back is 26 3/4" wide. Don't forget to provide plenty of ventilation space near the louvers. It puts out quite a bit of heat.
hth

Mitsubishi owners have also had Motorola issues -- it is not a Samsung issue (except they keep getting the calls).

Well, crud...
I just got my 6163W home, popped in Star Wars I (my kids like it...)

;)

and I see rainbows everywhere, in just about every scene...

:(

I'm just sitting normally and any bright source on the screen will produce these. Usually happens when I blink, or move my eyes to a different part of the screen. Noticable in the space shots, when ships move across the screen. It's in lots of other scenes as well. (I'm not shaking my head, I'm not trying to see them, I'm just watching the darn movie)

I've run a search, but have not found if anyone knows some settings that might reduce the occurance of the images... Any ideas guys?

I'd hate to send the set back because it's otherwise a great buy.

Help!

Aloid

Aloid, unfortunately there are no settings to mitigate rainbows, as, AFAIK, it's inherent in the DLP technology. Some people are apparently more susceptible than others. Some suggest to sit farther back to lessen eye movement across the screen, or perhaps lighten the image. I didn't see them at the beginning, but I sure do now. I've just had to tell myself it's no big deal, so it won't drive me crazy. :(

Originally posted by Jefftaz
With the HLN507W I was able to connect the Comcast Motorola 6200 through component (DVI was taken by the DVD player) via 720p. I had the TV set to Wide mode and the cable box to 16x9, The 4:3 override was off (Htwaits is this what you are referring to as the 480i off?).

Yes.

When I was watching HD programs it would fill the entire screen except for the 4:3 HD material which would show up with black bars on either side.

The 4x3 material is digital SD and comes to the set as a 16x9 image including the black bars.

However when I went down into the analog channels ( channel 2 - 50 etc...) the picture also filled up the entire TV screen. It was not high def but it did stretch to fill the entire screen area.

That's what my HLP5063 does with my "Ant. 1" 480i input.

Now with the HLP6163W going over component via 1080i this no longer happens. The HD channels still fill the entire screen, however the lower channels all show up with the black bars on either side of the picture = 4:3 picture.

With component input you should have these "P. Size" choices: Wide, Panorama, Zoom1, Zoom2 and 4x3. To get the correct aspect ratio you should select 4x3. To stretch the edges more than the center select Panorama. To stretch the same amount in all four directions use Zoom1. Zoom2 stretches even more in all four directions.

Why would the HLN allow the picture to fill the entire screen on the lower channels and the HLP does not with the exact same settings?

Probably because "stretching" was developed to avoid burn-in and isn't needed with a DLP set. Samsung is still giving you the choice to stretch with component 480i/480p input. I'm not sure what options it offers with 1080i component input.

When you press the "P. Size" button on your remote what options do you see for your component 1080i connection?

Forcing the analog signal to 1080i may cause the TV to gray out the Panorama and Zoom modes so you may have to set the STB to allow the native resolution of each signal to pass through with out conversion.

I don't use component input or 1080i so I can't check the defaults for your setup.

I am confused: Does the Motorola 6200 box require a DVI-D Dual Link or Single link cable:

according to pacificcable.com, this is what dvi-d dual link looks like- http://www.pacificcable.com/images/DVIDConnector.gif

whereas bluejeanscable says the same cable is DVI-D Single Link-
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/singlelink.jpg

I am also having the 720p problem with this box and the hlp6163w set, so I want to try DVI. Also, Component video doesn't allow the use of "expand" mode, only wide and 4:3.

Just to confirm: It IS DVI-D, correct?

Also, when I received my set, I had this problem as soon as I turned it on:

http://www.fraggedhosting.com/imagehosting/public/nosource.JPG
http://www.fraggedhosting.com/imagehosting/public/movie.JPG


However, it is a known issue, and a Samsung tech came over my house and replaced the DLP engine. Unfortunately, the engine has some problems with dark areas, the color looks all washed out, and the image is all jittery (dancing pixels? im not really sure what dancing pixels are but this is what I'd imagine them to be.) I will post pics of this later.

Originally posted by bruce73
Aloid, unfortunately there are no settings to mitigate rainbows, as, AFAIK, it's inherent in the DLP technology. Some people are apparently more susceptible than others. Some suggest to sit farther back to lessen eye movement across the screen, or perhaps lighten the image. I didn't see them at the beginning, but I sure do now. I've just had to tell myself it's no big deal, so it won't drive me crazy. :(

I hate to see the Sammy go, but it's on it's way out this week to make room for a JVC D-ILA... I consider the D-ILA to be a bit more of a risk because it's newer (or less proven?) technology, but if there are no rainbows then it's worth a try.

May your picture be bright and your HD be clean!

Aloid

Both single and dual link cables will work. I see a difference in the pictures. The dual link cable "may" have some bandwidth capabilities that you "might" be able to take advantage of in the future. Because I'm always a sucker for that pitch I have a dual link cable. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by steel102
Unfortunately, the engine has some problems with dark areas, the color looks all washed out, and the image is all jittery (dancing pixels? im not really sure what dancing pixels are but this is what I'd imagine them to be.) I will post pics of this later.

I had a problem with "dancing pixels" on my set with my Voom receiver through DVI. It was an occassional "stuck" pixel here and there with a bright white spot. This was noticed after I had the digital board changed. Eventually they went away. Hopefully they don't return!

One of those pics is showing a male and the other is a female. You want a DVI-D cable with male on both ends. I got a dual link from a local MicroCenter, good quality, low price.

htwaits wrote:
I'm not sure what options it offers with 1080i component input.
With component/1080i it only offers "Wide" and "4:3".

I have an October 2004 HLP5663. I have a Samsung Ts360 DirectTV receiver connected via DVI. When I turn on the TV (cold) the picture comes in then blinks out, then blinks in again. It continues to do this and the "lamp" light is blinking. If I press the "source" button on the remote and shuttle through all the sources back to the DVI then it is OK and will work as long as the TV is on. It doesn't happen everytime. Anyone have an idea?

1st issue with my HLP6163 since I got it in Sept/04. I just switched to using component 2 for the HD source via a SA 8300HD PVR via a component switch. I was watching some HD stuff when the TV went dark and lost singal. Then it came back. This happens quite often with the cable HD source so I didnt think too much about it. Then about 1/2 hr later it happenned again, this time when the pic came back, it was wave-y like and the color was off before it locked back in. Now the probm, all the HD sources now are shifted to the right. The 4:3 stuff on the HD channels are not centered and the HD 16:9 is left hifted (PBS has black boarder on the left). All the normal non HD channels are fine and centered, only the HD ones are left shifted. I originally blamed the 8300 and got a replacement 8000 until more 8300 became available and its the same probm. So its not the cable box. I move the input back to Component 1 and everything is working as it shld. It seems that somehow the component 2 has flaked out. I was alos blaming all the HD drops on the cable box, but now I think it is some how related to the component inputs since I dont have any drops when I use the DVI input from my HTPC.

Well I see what the service tech has to say when he comes this Friday.

I recently bought (and returned) a Samsung 46" DLP (HL-P4663W). In short I was way dissapointed:

- The documented audio video synching issue was noticable right away. I wasn't happy with Samungs solution to use hardware to correct it. Funny thing is it would come and go so it wasn't always happening.

- The stretch mode (panorama) for stretching 4:3 to 16:9 produced blurry edges. When text or someone was on the side of the screen the distortation was very distracting. My wife and I would joke that it made text look like it was flying off the screen. Also, when the camera would pan, you would get the feeling that the edge of the screen was filtered through a fish-eye lense. I know there's going to be some quality loss when stretching a 4:3 image, but other brands do this much better (Panasonic, Sony).

- The picture quality for SD material looked really rough. This isn't really a "problem" with the set, but it just doesn't do SD (from DirecTV) material much justice.

Basically, my 3-year old Toshiba 52" rear projection tv did much better in all of these areas. My friend has a 52" Samsung DLP thats about a year old and interestingly enough his picture is better quality and his panorama mode isn't half as bad as the one I had. I wonder if Samsungs doing something different?

Before returning the Samsung, as a comparison, we bought the Panasonic 42" Plasma EDTV (TH-42PD25U). It blew the samsung out of the water, no matter the signal. The best thing is how cleanly it scales 4:3 to 16:9 in its' stretch mode (can't remember the name right now). So we kept the Pan and returned the Samsung.

I was really surprised how this set compared to both the Toshiba and Panasonic, especially after hearing how great the DLPs are.

If your reading this and thinking of buying a Samsung I would definatly wait. It sounds like there's too many issues.

Kevin

Originally posted by kevreh

- The stretch mode (panorama) for stretching 4:3 to 16:9 produced blurry edges. When text or someone was on the side of the screen the distortation was very distracting. My wife and I would joke that it made text look like it was flying off the screen. Also, when the camera would pan, you would get the feeling that the edge of the screen was filtered through a fish-eye lense. I know there's going to be some quality loss when stretching a 4:3 image, but other brands do this much better (Panasonic, Sony).

Kevin

You should be using "Wide" not "Panorama" to stretch 4:3 to 16:9. Panorama works as well but it intentionally stretches the edges more than the middle - ideal for news programs, etc where all of the action is in the middle of the screen.

I for one don't like to stretch 4:3 so I can't comment on how well the Samsung does vis-a-vis other displays. If you watch SD in its OAR I think you will find the SD PQ is quite good unless you have a crappy signal.

Before you make a bold statement like "I would definitely wait" before buying a Samsung, you may want to try to RTFM.

Originally posted by EricScott
You should be using "Wide" not "Panorama" to stretch 4:3 to 16:9. Panorama works as well but it intentionally stretches the edges more than the middle - ideal for news programs, etc where all of the action is in the middle of the screen.

I for one don't like to stretch 4:3 so I can't comment on how well the Samsung does vis-a-vis other displays. If you watch SD in its OAR I think you will find the SD PQ is quite good unless you have a crappy signal.

Before you make a bold statement like "I would definitely wait" before buying a Samsung, you may want to try to RTFM.

What does RTFM have to do with anything? All manufactures have a mode where they keep the middle proportional and stretch the edges. My point is the Samsungs Panorama version is lame. Wide mode stretches the whole image, not great for 4:3 material.

With all the technical issues that have been brought up, including what I saw I *would* definitely wait.

So sensitive...

Watching anything in any mode other than the correct AR is lame as far as I'm concerned. Why anyone would distort the picture on a DLP just to fill the screen is beyond me. Sorry, that's just the way I feel and I'm sure I'm not alone. To each his own, I guess.

I've got a 46" HLP and i am having some issues when using it with my xbox at 720p. There are some horizontal "bands" of distortion that move up the screen. Mostly it affects still screens. like menu's, etc. I have used this xbox and cables (i have 2 sets of HD cables and both do it) on 3 other HDTV and they all looked perfect. BTW, my upconverting DVD player, and HD Tuner work great at 720p, and 1080i. Anyone have any info that can help?

Thanks
Ryan

Glad I found this forum...maybe someone can help me with my problem...

I purchased my HLP4663W in October from Best Buy (it was built in September). I was waiting for an new entertainment center to come in so I didn't even take it out of the box for 2 weeks (if I had realized that I only had 30 days to return it I definitely would have plugged it in sooner!). Anyway, about 3 weeks after I first plugged it in (and 2 weeks after I received my HD box from Cox), the TV started turning off and then back on by itself. At first it was only about once a week, but then it got more frequent until Christmas day, when it shut off completely and all three lights came on. I called BB and a tech came out and concluded that the bulb & ballast needed to be replaced. 2 days later they were in and all seemed fine...until about 30 minutes after the tech left and the TV shut off again. So he came back last week, ordered Digital & Analog PCB's(?) and now I'm waiting until Friday for him to come back and put them in.

The TV is currently unwatchable. I can turn it on and the picture is perfect...for about 5 minutes. Then it starts powering off and on and eventually shuts off. So my questions are: has anyone else had/seen/heard of this problem? Do you think that it can be fixed with the parts that were ordered? Or am I just going to have to wait until the tech comes out for a 3rd time to decide to buy a different TV? I really love this one...when it works. But I have no desire to have to worry about going through this all over again with another Samsung.

Can anyone help? Thanks, Dan

Originally posted by NinjaTurtle
So my questions are: has anyone else had/seen/heard of this problem?

Yes and it can be fixed or if you have a run of bad luck or poor diagnosis then you will get a refund or a new set.

Do you think that it can be fixed with the parts that were ordered?

I don't know but that would get you one step close to a "lemon" solution.

Or am I just going to have to wait until the tech comes out for a 3rd time to decide to buy a different TV?

Have you talked to the manager of the store where you bought the set -- especially about how much time you have spent unable to use your new BB TV?

[/b]I really love this one...when it works.[/b]

I know for sure that Panasonic and Sony have gone through periods of similar problems. Samsung has had much more problems like this in the past. It doesn't seem to happen very often now.

But I have no desire to have to worry about going through this all over again with another Samsung.

I've had three Samsung DLP sets an never had the problem. You could have the same problem with a replacement set but it's a fairly long shot.

Can anyone help?

RPTV technology using a computer chip (DLP, LCD, or LCoS) and a projection lamp is a new one. I think all the companies have made a lot of progress. One of their problems is that they have to buy the lamps from a third party.

Originally posted by 1Mark1
Watching anything in any mode other than the correct AR is lame as far as I'm concerned. Why anyone would distort the picture on a DLP just to fill the screen is beyond me. Sorry, that's just the way I feel and I'm sure I'm not alone. To each his own, I guess.

I'm with you. I've never seen the point of stretching the picture just to fill the screen. Seems just as pointless as full frame DVDs.

Originally posted by kevreh
What does RTFM have to do with anything? All manufactures have a mode where they keep the middle proportional and stretch the edges. My point is the Samsungs Panorama version is lame. Wide mode stretches the whole image, not great for 4:3 material.

With all the technical issues that have been brought up, including what I saw I *would* definitely wait.

So sensitive...

The way you were describing the blurred edges in Panorama mode in your previous post I assumed that you expected Panorama to be a normal widescreen mode - I apologize for assuming you didn't know the distinction.

However, I have to agree with 1Mark1 that it doesn't make a ton of sense to stretch a 4:3 image on a DLP. Given all of the various issues with each of the brands/technologies, if filling the screen is a major priority for you then maybe you should return the Samsung.

htwaits...
Thanks for the reply. No, I haven't talked to the BB manager, but if these parts don't work on Friday that's where I'm headed. What really sucks is that I really do love the TV. The picture is incredible in HD, and even the SD programming is OK once you get used to it (and realize that in a couple of years it should all be HD). Plus, I bought the entertainment center with this TV in mind. The fact that the speakers are below the screen, rather than on the sides rules out a replacement like the 46" Sony LCD I was considering before. I know that these problems are fewer now and I just happened to get one of the bad ones, but I'd hate to get another lemon. I would love to replace it with the HLP4674 because it seems that maybe that one may be a little more reliable, but BB doesn't carry that model (although the Magnolia department inside the BB does).

Anyway, I'll see what happens on Friday and cross my fingers (football play-offs are this weekend and I'm not going to be happy is I have to watch them on my 19" Sony! ;) )

Originally posted by NinjaTurtle
Anyway, I'll see what happens on Friday and cross my fingers (football play-offs are this weekend and I'm not going to be happy is I have to watch them on my 19" Sony! ;) )
At this point I think your biggest worry should be the skill of BB's service people. :rolleyes:

If the second repair fails I would "also" contact Samsung directly. If you reach "lemon" status Samsung might be willing to swap you to a HLP4674 for the difference in price.

BB and Magnolia are owned by the same company but are separate organizations so I would be surprised if the BB manager could solve your problem through Magnolia.

Good luck.

Here is the smudge/pixelation problem I am having now. The samsung tech tried 2 new DLP engines, but they didn't help, so they think the digital pcb might be shot and will be bringing a new one.

I know these pics don't show it too well, but if you look at the cloud areas, you can see all that noise there and how the color (grays and blacks in this case) look washed out. It reminds of when you look at a picture on your computer at 16 bit color, you can see all the "gradients" and it looks washed out. I tried setting gamma to zero in the service menu, but didn't help. This is not just my camera being bad, it looks worse in real life and really detracts from the picture.

http://www.fraggedhosting.com/imagehosting/public/pic1.JPG
http://www.fraggedhosting.com/imagehosting/public/pic2.JPG
http://www.fraggedhosting.com/imagehosting/public/pic3.JPG

Originally posted by EricScott
The way you were describing the blurred edges in Panorama mode in your previous post I assumed that you expected Panorama to be a normal widescreen mode - I apologize for assuming you didn't know the distinction.

However, I have to agree with 1Mark1 that it doesn't make a ton of sense to stretch a 4:3 image on a DLP. Given all of the various issues with each of the brands/technologies, if filling the screen is a major priority for you then maybe you should return the Samsung.

Yeah, some people keep 4:3 in 4:3 and others like myself are more annoyed by the side bars than the stretching (usually). I ended up returning the Samsung and bought a 42" Pan EDTV. Looks a lot better in the stretch mode...

Kevin

Originally posted by htwaits
That will take a while unless we get lucky.

My first post on the forum. Hello to all!

I specifically got the Samsung DLP HL-P5085W because I wanted to be able to use it as both the HD monitor for my home theater but also as a monitor for my computer. I am somewhat of a newbie to home theaters and to using computers as the hubs of my digitial entertainment, but it's fun. So, now I have a terrific HTPC, although my wife hates Windows Media Center Edition.

Here's my setup:

eMachines T3096 with MS Windows Media Center Edition 2004
GeForce MX220 video card with DVI out
Soundblaster MP3+ external USB digital audio device
Pioneer Surround System System 5.1 Dolby Digital

My major gripe is with Windows Media Center Edition. For some reason, getting digital audio output to my surround sound system was a pain in the rear, but I solved it using a $20 external USB sound device from Soundblaster. So, now I get digital audio for DVDs, Dolby Pro Logic II for music (sends it over 5.1 channels) through the computer. Visualizations on Media Player on the Sammy should be great for dance parties!

I have the DVI out on my video card hooked up to the DVI input on my Sammy. Looks great so far, but I will be playing around with the various resolutions soon. I tried it on RGB, but it only gets VGA resolution. With DVI, I get so much better resolution. I surf the Internet using a Gyration wireless mouse and keyboard (very cool!). I set up my display properties to clone, which means currently what you see on my 15" flat screen is also what you get on the Sammy. I will be playing around with those settings in the future as well, because I understand you can set the displays not to clone and that way, my wife and I can use the computer at the same time for different tasks.

So far I love the Sammy, although last night I tried to calibrate my settings using the AVIA DVD (which is a bit dated but reviews indicated it had the best test patterns). Maybe it's because I'm a newbie and video equipment, but I had a hard time getting the color stuff set (black and white levels were easy). I think I might try again, but if I can't get it to get rid of the green levels that others have been commenting on, I might spring for a professional calibration. Anyone know someone good in the Philly area who specifically knows about the HLP Sammy's, feel free to post or email me.

In general, very happy, especially since I got the Sammy TV on sale at Circuit City with 4 year warranty for $2500 (TV was $2100).

David

Originally posted by htwaits
That will take a while unless we get lucky.

My first post on the forum. Hello to all!

I specifically got the Samsung DLP HL-P5085W because I wanted to be able to use it as both the HD monitor for my home theater but also as a monitor for my computer. I am somewhat of a newbie to home theaters and to using computers as the hubs of my digitial entertainment, but it's fun. So, now I have a terrific HTPC, although my wife hates Windows Media Center Edition.

Here's my setup:

eMachines T3096 with MS Windows Media Center Edition 2004
GeForce MX220 video card with DVI out
Soundblaster MP3+ external USB digital audio device
Pioneer Surround System System 5.1 Dolby Digital

My major gripe is with Windows Media Center Edition. For some reason, getting digital audio output to my surround sound system was a pain in the rear, but I solved it using a $20 external USB sound device from Soundblaster. So, now I get digital audio for DVDs, Dolby Pro Logic II for music (sends it over 5.1 channels) through the computer. Visualizations on Media Player on the Sammy should be great for dance parties!

I have the DVI out on my video card hooked up to the DVI input on my Sammy. Looks great so far, but I will be playing around with the various resolutions soon. I tried it on RGB, but it only gets VGA resolution. With DVI, I get so much better resolution. I surf the Internet using a Gyration wireless mouse and keyboard (very cool!). I set up my display properties to clone, which means currently what you see on my 15" flat screen is also what you get on the Sammy. I will be playing around with those settings in the future as well, because I understand you can set the displays not to clone and that way, my wife and I can use the computer at the same time for different tasks.

So far I love the Sammy, although last night I tried to calibrate my settings using the AVIA DVD (which is a bit dated but reviews indicated it had the best test patterns). Maybe it's because I'm a newbie and video equipment, but I had a hard time getting the color stuff set (black and white levels were easy). I think I might try again, but if I can't get it to get rid of the green levels that others have been commenting on, I might spring for a professional calibration. Anyone know someone good in the Philly area who specifically knows about the HLP Sammy's, feel free to post or email me.

In general, very happy, especially since I got the Sammy TV on sale at Circuit City with 4 year warranty for $2500 (TV was $2100).

David

Originally posted by bruce73
According to this post (http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showpost.php?p=88114&postcount=14) from the HDTVoice.com forum, Samsung is putting the blame with the 720p/component output problem on Motorola. The thread concerns the moto 6208, but since I had the same problem with the 6200, as well as the moto BMC9012 (moxi), it appears to be a problem with Motorola STBs in general.

I am on my second Samsung DLP. First was the HLN which by the way synced up perfectly over comonent at 720 from the same Moto cable box I have now. Now it doesn't work on my HLP-5063

Like everyone else it works fine over DVI. I haven't tried HDMI yet since I don't have a cable for it.

Tom

Originally posted by dperlman002
...So far I love the Sammy, although last night I tried to calibrate my settings using the AVIA DVD (which is a bit dated but reviews indicated it had the best test patterns). Maybe it's because I'm a newbie and video equipment, but I had a hard time getting the color stuff set (black and white levels were easy). I think I might try again, but if I can't get it to get rid of the green levels that others have been commenting on, I might spring for a professional calibration. ...).

David

If your are trying to color calibrate with uour HTPC input to the Sammy you might also look at a the Nvidia control panel to try and adjust gamma there.

Maybe your video card is causing the green push and you can remove it before it gets to the set.

You want your res set to 1280x720. You may need to upgrade video drivers to get custom res and gamma options.

Originally posted by Paul_PDX
If your are trying to color calibrate with uour HTPC input to the Sammy you might also look at a the Nvidia control panel to try and adjust gamma there.

Maybe your video card is causing the green push and you can remove it before it gets to the set.

I was calibrating through my DVD player, which I have connected using Y/Pb/Pr component cables to component 1 input. If the DVI video card source were not being displayed, might it still interfere with the calibration? Might it be causing the green push?

Thanks,

David

Originally posted by dperlman002
If the DVI video card source were not being displayed, might it still interfere with the calibration? Might it be causing the green push?

No. But the component connection could be the problem. You are forcing two conversions -- first from digital to analog and then analog back to digital.

Update: the samsung tech came today, replaced the digital PCB, but it didn't really fix the problem. She said that another owner was having the same problem. She talked on the phone to 2 different samsung techs at different locations, but they didn't know what to do either. Watch out for this problem on your new HLP sets!

Originally posted by steel102
Update: the samsung tech came today, replaced the digital PCB, but it didn't really fix the problem. She said that another owner was having the same problem. She talked on the phone to 2 different samsung techs at different locations, but they didn't know what to do either. Watch out for this problem on your new HLP sets!
What about a new light engine or a new set?

They already tried two new light engines (see first post of mine in this thread) but it didn't help. Hopefully they will just give me a new set instead of me having to wait while they figure out what is going on.

Originally posted by steel102
They already tried two new light engines (see first post of mine in this thread) but it didn't help. Hopefully they will just give me a new set instead of me having to wait while they figure out what is going on.
If you haven't already get Samsung involved.

what do you mean? yes samsung is involved, i called their tech support, and it is their tech that came to my house to fix the tv.

Originally posted by steel102
what do you mean? yes samsung is involved, i called their tech support, and it is their tech that came to my house to fix the tv.
I read a lot of threads. Sorry if I didn't keep up to date on your problems.

Samsung does do exchanges but it takes some time. It's sometimes faster through your dealer depending on how long you have had the set and the particular dealer. I would ask for fast track help from one of them.

If it was a Samsung employee then you should get faster action than if it was a contract service company.

Good luck.

Update :(

BB Tech came yesterday and installed the new Analog and Digital PCB boards. Everything seemed fine last night and this morning until about 3 pm today when the TV turned off and on for the 1st time. Happened again about an hour later and then the off/on/off/on cycle started about 45 minutes after that. Finally concluded with the 3 lights on the front of the TV and no response from the remote.

I called BB again and scheduled my 3rd repair call...for next Thursday. Don't even get me started about having to wait that long for them to come back. I also had an interesting conversation with the support person at Best Buy when I wanted to confirm if my $400 PSP would carry over to whatever TV I decide to replace this one with. He originally said no, that the PSP only covered the original TV and that I would have to buy new one for the replacement. After talking to his supervisor and explaining that there was no way in hell that I paid $400 for a 3 month extended warranty and that I could have not bought the PSP, gone directly through Samsung, and gotten exactly the same result, I was told that it would cover my replacement for the remainder of the 4 years, regardless of if I buy another Samsung or not, since this one is still under the manufacturer's warranty. I kinda figured that, but I wanted to make sure.

Anyway...I called Samsung as well to see if they could shed any light on my problem and they were of little help. Basically, they said that they could send a service tech out, but that they have the same 3 strikes lemon rule. So since I'm already 2/3's of the way there with BB, I might as well go this route. They also told me that they hadn't heard of anyone having the same issues that I'm having, with the unit turning off and on and then the 3 lights coming on. That doesn't surprise me because I've only been able to find one other person online that's seemed to have it as well.

I guess I've got about another 2 weeks of dealing with this and then it will be time to decide whether to take a chance on another HLP4663, or find something else that may be more reliable. I'll let you know what happens.

same thing happened to me with BB. The warranty does transfer over but you cannot use the no lemon portion again unless you buy a new warranty. I had to call their corporate office to get clarification on this. So basically if you get a replacement and something happens, they will just continue to fix it rather than replace it again. Doesn't make much business sense to me though. I'm sure in a lot of cases that it would be cheaper to replace it rather than keep fixing it.

tech came on Friday, and couldnt figure out whats wrong with my set. Since its just a minor probm, he went bac to the office and send the info he gather to Samsung to see what they say. My probm is that when I use component 2 all my images are shifted right. On Component 1 a very slight off ceneter right. DVI its dead on. Also I am having real issues with the set. I have the humidity in the room now at 30-40% and anytime I touch any thing (not TV) even no static discharge I get a drop no singal. I can walk acroos the floor and some times this also happens. Lately this probm is occuring even when I am still on the couch touching nada. I 1st blamed the HiDef SA 8000/8300 PVR's from the cable company but after the 5th PVR, now it looks like the TV is the probm. Never have drops on DVI so it pointing to the analog stage in the Sammy.

Ok, I just got a 5063 and there are few problems with it I think. One, there is a high pitch whistling sound. Is this normal. Its kind of annoying. Second, when the tv is off, i think i see a discoloration in the screen in the center of the tv. Am i just seeing some component behind the screen? Also, in dark scenes, i see vertical bars across the whole screen spaced evenly apart. I couldn't find any info on this. Thanks for the help.

i have a 4663 with firmware 1035. i was hoping maybe someone with same set and firmware could tell me what there sound delay is set to? 1 2 or 3? any help would be great .. thanks

Thanks for the help. The high pitch was not noticable yesterday at first, but then started to be louder later in the night(I could be imagining this. But it is very annoying. I am about 10 feet away and i can still hear it at volume 20 using the tv speakers. Any ideas on the vertical bars, I didn't notice them yesterday. Thanks again.

nemo77,
Its the bearing in your color wheel making the noise. I had mine replaced. They actually replaced the whole light engine because its easier.

I have no ideas about the vert bars. Ask the service rep before he comes out.

AkaStp,
The "discoloration in the screen in the center of the tv" is normal when the TV is turned off. There is a sheet of paper included with the manual, warranty, etc. that describes this.
I did not see that paper. Can you provide the description? I see a faint white oval in the center with the TV off. Never bothered to question it before.

Originally posted by VA Ringer
I see a faint white oval in the center with the TV off.
It's reflected ambiant light from your room -- not a problem.

Thanks for the response... I am downloading that document right now...
While all the experts are here....
I have included a drawing. I need to run speaker wire to my LS and RS speakers. I am guessing I will have to drill a hole in the floor behind the DLP, run it through my crawlspace, then up through the corresponding walls somehow where the speakers will be mounted. This seems quite a daunting task. Specifically the wall fishing. Has anyone done this or should I just call a professional? Thanks!

VA Ringer,

It's a fairly easy task, not as hard as you think. This is how I did it: 1) From the first floor, determine where you want the wire to come out from the wall and cut a hole in the wall at that location. Make sure it has to be between the two studs. 2) Project that position to the floor then drill a tiny hole with the smallest drill bit you have as close as possible to the wall trim on the floor. The hole you drill has to be big enough for a coat hanger wire to go through. 3) Fish a length of a coat hanger wire through the hole you just drilled. The wire only has to be long enough so you can find it when you go down to the basement or crawl space. 4) Go to your basement (or crawl space) and look for that piece of coat hanger wire that you just fished down. Next to the coat hanger wire is the sole plate (bottom plate) of the wall frame. You have to determine whether the soleplate is to the left or to the right of the coat hanger wire. Once you decide where the sole plate is, tape one end of the speaker wire to the fishtape and drill a hole upward in the middle of the sole plate. Make sure to use a bigger drill bit so that both the speaker wire plus the fish tape can go through at the same time. 5) Now go back up to the fist floor and look through the cutout hole in the wall. You should see the fishtape with your speaker wire in there some where. 5) Pull the wire out and make your connection. As I said it's much easier that you think. Good luck.

VA Ringer,

I forgot to mention you should wear a mask and goggle when you drill the hole up from the basement (or crawl space). I wore glasses when I drilled mine and thought that would give me enough protection. Boy, I got sawdust in both my eyes and a lung full of sawdust too.

I'm having some issues with my new HLP5085.
I've done a lot of reading on this site and others, and haven't seen a solution to this problem.

I have horrible gradation on my blacks. Any darkish scene or scene with shadows has progressively darker bands of black and no detail.
Besides this, the TV looks incredible, but the blacks are so bad that it makes most everything unwatchable. This happens on every input I've tried, from every source.

I've not yet tweaked my TV with DVE (it's bought, shipped, and on the way to my place) but I've played extensively with the contract/brightness/sharpness/color off the user menu. Nothing I try seems to be able to come close to getting rid of the banding, and I think this is beyond tweaking from the UM.

I've tried some tweaks in the service menu. The Gamma adjustment (currently on 2) didn't provide any help.
Also, with the test patterns available from the SM, the one with 3 columns that progress from black to white, clearly shows gradation on the blacks. There are visible bands of black shades instead of a smooth transition.

Anyone have any idea how I should proceed with this? Do I need to have my TV serviced by Samsung? Are there settings in the SM I can adjust to play with the black level?

The rest of the colors on my TV are incredible and besides this I'm very happy with my purchase.

Thanks

Actionnewbs - trade-in yer HLP and get the new 1080p with 5,000:1 contrast ratio.

Just got a new HLP4674 a couple of weeks ago and have noticed that the screen is slightly concave. In fact, it is so slightly concave it's hard to see even when moving reflections around the corners. I had to place the straight edge of a ruler on the screen from the top edge to the side edge to be sure it was there. But sure enough, the screen is concave.
Anyway, it's causing a pincushion effect on the sides which is only really noticable when viewing the desktop of my HTPC (PC wide mode) since that mode has no overscan.
I just wanted to post a query to see if this is common and normal or if the screen on my set was not mounted properly.
I appologise if this has been previously discussed; I did a cursory search of this thread and could find no mention of the problem.

thanks,
Trey

wdang,

Thanks for the procedure! I did not know anything about a fishtape. Do you know of a place to get one cheap? If so, please recommend one.

Are speaker mount plates recommended?

Is there a good source online that shows detailed drawings or pictures of this type of installations?

One other thing, I have heard that there might be horizontal studs in the walls for fire prevention. If one of those are in the way, how do I get through it? The speakers will probably be about 6.5-7 feet high.

Thanks again!

Originally posted by VA Ringer
I have heard that there might be horizontal studs in the walls for fire prevention. If one of those are in the way, how do I get through it?
You have to cut out a small piece of sheet-rock across the firebreak so that you have room to drill through it. Then you fish the line from the basement to that point and thread it through the hole -- repeat until you reach your speaker hole. :)

Sunset has a how to do it book that shows adding new wiring outlet by using the same method when you need to go through several studs.

Fishtape is a roll of narrow steel tape. Think of it as a huge and very sturdy tape measure. You can get a cheap one at the electrical section at Lowe's or Home Depot. I think I paid around $12 for a 25 ft roll at Home Depot last year. I don't use speaker mounts because mine are inwall speakers. But yes, if your speakers are wallmount speakers then I think you should use speaker mount plates for a more secure and professional look. I don't know of any website that shows you how to do this but I think if you search around you might find one. As for firebreak studs, normally they are only below a soffit and that is normally in the kitchen. I might be wrong about this. I've done a lot of inwall wiring and never run into this problem.

Originally posted by wdang
I've done a lot of inwall wiring and never run into this problem.
I have.

In fact I'm sitting in front of one now. :rolleyes:

so loving the tv ever since i got it, it has started to develop a problem. Its only intermittent at this point so i called for service, just wondering if anyone has this problem or if anyone knows whats going. So heres the problem:

Every few times i turn the TV on it comes up in weird colors, predominantly purple and pink. Now sometimes after a minute i hear a click and the colors are normal. Other times i have to turn it off, leave it off for a while, then turn it back on. So far it has always gone away. I got one of the first shipments from the TVA group buy so its an original.

Any ideas of what will need to be replaced?

Originally posted by gcubed
I got one of the first shipments from the TVA group buy so its an original. Any ideas of what will need to be replaced?

Please be sure to include the model number of your tv too please. That will help people track the issues by model.

As far as the problem goes I can't say, except you should call Samsung and schedule for a technician or get your retailer to replace it.

Regards,
Frank

oy, cant believe i forgot that. HLP5063W. Yeah I already have it scheduled, just wanted to see if anyone else experienced the problem.

htwaits/wdang,

Thanks again for the replies. I will use my stud finder to try and locate firebreaks this weekend. I am not too keen on the idea of cutting out drywall to fish it through. If there are firebreaks I may have to just look at hiding the wire.

Thanks!

Aloid,

If your HLP keeps f - ing up, Samsung is eventually going to get tired and just upgrade your set to the new model with xHD3 or something.

A small screwdriver jammed into the appropriate place might speed the process along. Hey, it's not your fault the sold you a sh*&tty TV - now they gotta pay up.

Respectfully submitted,

Snooptonydog

DOES ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO ENTER THE INTERNAL MENU OF THE SAMSUNG 5685W? I WOULD LIKE TO CORRECT THE HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL POSITION OF THE IMAGE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP.

The comcast cable guy installed a scientific atlantic hd box, but didn't know much about it. Is the DVI port enabled? How do i set the box to output 720p for hd and 420p for non-hd content. Would these be the correct settings. Also if the dvi port is enabled, should i use a dvi to hdmi cable or dvi to dvi cable or would it be better to use component cables. What should i l;ook for in dvi/hdmi cable. Thanks.

Originally posted by nemo77
The comcast cable guy installed a scientific atlantic hd box, but didn't know much about it. Is the DVI port enabled? How do i set the box to output 720p for hd and 420p for non-hd content. Would these be the correct settings. Also if the dvi port is enabled, should i use a dvi to hdmi cable or dvi to dvi cable or would it be better to use component cables. What should i l;ook for in dvi/hdmi cable. Thanks.
DVI port being enabled depends on the service in your area not the box. I have a SA box and to set output on mine you have to push the display button on the box and set it to what you want. DVI or DVI/HDMI either one is same quality and better than component. Don't buy monster DVI cables, get any non-over priced cable like at Microcenter or online at Newegg.

Has anyone been able to use a custom resolution output from an ATI card using just driver settings, without using Powerstrip? I am trying to fix the overscan problem on my HLP5674 connected via DVI. In the Expand mode at 1280x720, the text looks great in 1:1 pixel mapping, but over-scanned of course. I read that the new NVidia drivers now provide custom profiles for HDTVs to prevent over-scan, but I couldn't find any such solutions for my ATI 9700Pro card.

Originally posted by ChuvaKuhn
Has anyone been able to use a custom resolution output from an ATI card using just driver settings, ...
I'm interested in what you find out but you might also want to try in the Home Theater Computer forum.

I have posted the same question in the "Home Theater Computers" forum too, but do not have an answer yet.

Originally posted by ChuvaKuhn
Has anyone been able to use a custom resolution output from an ATI card using just driver settings, without using Powerstrip? I am trying to fix the overscan problem on my HLP5674 connected via DVI. In the Expand mode at 1280x720, the text looks great in 1:1 pixel mapping, but over-scanned of course. I read that the new NVidia drivers now provide custom profiles for HDTVs to prevent over-scan, but I couldn't find any such solutions for my ATI 9700Pro card.
I have a nVidia 6800GT and the "prevent overscan" option leaves underscan even while in TV Wide mode. I haven't tried any new drivers in awhile though. There is also a "shift overscan" option that moves the whole screen when you get to the edge of screen with mouse so you can reach all tabs but it's pretty strange. I will experiment some more and try some newer drivers.

EDIT: Sorry, guess this isn't helping you at all but with new drivers and custom res settings of 1241 x 698 and using expand mode everything lines up perfect. I guess with an ATI card you will need to use powerstrip. I have a 9700Pro and another HTPC built but haven't even installed any drivers yet. Goina see what I can come up with. I just built a HTPC for a friend with a 9600 and getting DVI to work was a major pain.

Back again with the latest update on the HLP4663 from hell (or as I like to call it, Best Buy ;) )

Here's a little recap...TV turns off and on repeatedly by itself, usually culminating in either all 3 lights lit or no lights lit, and no response from the remote. Has been happening since early December and 1st service call was right after Christmas. Bulb & ballast and digital & analog PCB boards have all been replaced.

BB tech came out again yesterday to re-diagnose what is wrong with my TV for the 3rd time. I spoke with him on the phone before he came...(unfortunately, since the service techs don't seem to work evenings or weekends, and neither do I, I haven't been able to be there for the last 3 visits...but my father-in-law has been kind enough to be there for me and I left a detailed recap of all the problems and service so that there wouldn't be any questions, even though it's been the same tech every visit.)...anyway, I tried to explain to him that the problems have been the same since the very beginning, but they symptoms vary from time to time. He was being a little snippy, trying to say that maybe this was a new problem from the previous times, but explained to the result is always the same...the TV turnd off and does not work.

When he arrived the TV would not power up at all, which was the same way I left it the night before. After talking with someone at Samsung they decided to order a new light engine. Hopefully it comes in today and I can get him to come back Monday and put it in since I know that it will take at least another week to get him back if that doesn't fix it.

So, my questions today (which are pretty much the same as the ones I had when this whole thing started) are:

What are the chances that the light engine is actually going to fix the problem? Seems to me that they are just reaching at this point. Since the problem has been the same, if the LE could be the actual cure, why didn't they try it first?

I was at BB the other night and they no longer have the HLP4663 on the floor. They do have the 50" & 56", but they are definitely closing them out. It also looked like they only had 3 other models that were under 50" (none of which looked as good as the Samsung). So does anyone know what the policy on replacements is if they no longer carry the same model in the store (I'm assuming that Samsung is still producing this one). I have seen here that manufacturers have offered model upgrades on replacements (for the cost difference), but has anyone had that experience through BB, CC, GG, etc... especially if it's a model that they don't carry?
It seems like I'm at least getting closer to resolving this whole ordeal, but it definitely has been the most unsatisfying purchase I've ever made. :(

Thanks for the info, Mark. While doing more research, I found this quote in "ATI and NVIDIA Video Card Buyer's Guide" from htpcnew.com:

"Both ATI and NVIDIA now have native support for using DVI or component (YPrPb)to connect to a HDTV set. Both also have driver level tweaks for overscan when using a native component connection. ATI's DVI connection support is very basic currently. NVIDIA's is quite a bit better offering the same tweaks to DVI users as it does for component."

I have been a royal fan of ATI cards and am very disappointed with them for not providing a custom resolution through DVI. It seems like such a simple and essential feature to support now that HDTVs are so common. I guess I will be buying an nVidia card for my next HTPC.

Two question for a HLP6163W

1) I'm trying to plug my laptop into the PC plug and can only display on the TV my desktop but not the icons.

I have a Toshiba A45 laptop and have purchased a 15 pin male to male 10' monitor cable (There are only 14 pins when I look at the cable). On my laptop I go into Control Panel/Display and click on the second monitor (TV) and tell it to show the desktop on the second monitor. I see the desktop background on the TV but the icons and cursor don't show. I realize this is a computer setup question more than a TV question but any advise would be appreciated.


2) Green push

The owner's manual states that the Tint cannot be adjusted in 480p or higher. Why? I have my SA 3250 box connected to the TV via DVI. I watched Collateral last night and most of the night/dark scenes had alot of green in it. The bright shots were fine.

The Avia disk mentions that most TVs have the factory preset with too much red and that having too much green is acceptable to most viewers. I just want to turn it down a little. Any suggestions?

Originally posted by NinjaTurtle
[B]Back again with the latest update on the HLP4663 from hell (or as I like to call it, Best Buy ;) )

What are the chances that the light engine is actually going to fix the problem? Seems to me that they are just reaching at this point. Since the problem has been the same, if the LE could be the actual cure, why didn't they try it first?




I had a similar problem with my HLP5663. The TV would turn on, upper right light would flash, then bottom red lights would flash, then upper right, bottom, etc. for two or three times and then all three lights (the evil smiley face) flashed forever but no picture would display. They replaced my light engine and it cured that problem. So I would be optimistic that it would fix your problem too. They probably didn't do it first because it's the most expensive fix.

However, for me, the agony continues, which I will address in my next post.

Originally posted by actionnewbs
I'm having some issues with my new HLP5085.
I've done a lot of reading on this site and others, and haven't seen a solution to this problem.

I have horrible gradation on my blacks. Any darkish scene or scene with shadows has progressively darker bands of black and no detail.
Besides this, the TV looks incredible, but the blacks are so bad that it makes most everything unwatchable. This happens on every input I've tried, from every source.


I have an HLP5663 which once displayed a pristine picture. Then I was having a problem with the set not displaying video at all occasionally. The techs came out and replaced the light engine, which fixed that problem. But as soon as I used the TV with the new light engine, the picture was a bit fuzzier and not as bright. But, more importantly, the blacks and dark areas, especially when playing a DVD, were blotchy, pulsating blobs of grainy purple. (Playing the opening of the original Star Wars movie illustrates this perfectly to the technician.) The tech was just out, we went through lots of service menus filled with incomprehensible settings, and he left, scratching his head and promising to order another new light engine.

I know your set's not the same as mine. But I would say report the problem and get someone out to look at it. If anyone knows more about this problem or what to do about it, please let us know.

Originally posted by DarthGable
I watched Collateral last night and most of the night/dark scenes had alot of green in it. The bright shots were fine.



That's the way the movie was filmed.

Originally posted by crossbeaux
I had a similar problem with my HLP5663. The TV would turn on, upper right light would flash, then bottom red lights would flash, then upper right, bottom, etc. for two or three times and then all three lights (the evil smiley face) flashed forever but no picture would display. They replaced my light engine and it cured that problem. So I would be optimistic that it would fix your problem too. They probably didn't do it first because it's the most expensive fix.

However, for me, the agony continues, which I will address in my next post. Your problem sounds pretty close...although my lights have only finished with the flashing once or twice. Usually they are either lit up or off completely But it does give me some hope that they might actually be able to fix it....we'll see. Thanks. :)

I've had my HLP6163 for 2 weeks now, it is a Nov.04 build.
I've had an awful time trying to adjust the colors on it. Out-of-the-box, the problem is very similar to what was described as "green push" on earlier posts. I'm finally getting closer by going to "My Color Control" and setting pink to 0, and jacking the green & blue way up. But I get the feeling I'll never get it right, I'm wondering if I've got a lemon.
Just when I think I'm close, I change the channel & everyones faces turn way pink, or green. As a matter of fact, every time I change channels I find myself going back to the setup menus.
I haven't even accessed the ServiceMenu, - without knowing what I'm doing, I'm trying not to.
My question is, does this sound like a defect, or just a lack of the proper tweaks? I've ordered the Avia & DVE disks, but wanted to post to see if this sounds familiar to anyone.

thanks!

I have an HLP5685 with firmware Version T_CLPNUS_1030. Regardless of someone having the same firmware version, I need to know the following default settings under the GM1601 section in the SM for an 5685 series DLP. This would need to be done through Component 1.

GM1601

Red_Offset2
Red_Gain
Green_Offset2
Green_Gain
Blue_Offset2
Blue_Gain
ADC_Band

This will be very much appreciated.

Originally posted by ChuvaKuhn
Thanks for the info, Mark. While doing more research, I found this quote in "ATI and NVIDIA Video Card Buyer's Guide" from htpcnew.com:

"Both ATI and NVIDIA now have native support for using DVI or component (YPrPb)to connect to a HDTV set. Both also have driver level tweaks for overscan when using a native component connection. ATI's DVI connection support is very basic currently. NVIDIA's is quite a bit better offering the same tweaks to DVI users as it does for component."

I have been a royal fan of ATI cards and am very disappointed with them for not providing a custom resolution through DVI. It seems like such a simple and essential feature to support now that HDTVs are so common. I guess I will be buying an nVidia card for my next HTPC.
I didn't have any luck correcting overscan even with powerstrip via DVI using 9700Pro.

Here is a pic of the nVidia HDTV overscan compensation tool included in newer 70.20 drivers. It works great:
http://home.cinci.rr.com/rackemup/HDTV%20overscan.JPG

NinjaTurtle, I think that the new light engine will fix your problem. Tantmount to a heart/lung/kidney/liver replacment.

Genus, re your green shift do you use component cables?

Since this thread has a larger base, I will try posting my question here.

HLP 5085 won't hold DVI picture size!
Hoping someone can explain this to me. I am using the 1248x702 powerstrip resolution with the DVI input set to a 4:3 picture size. I had been running this for months with no issues. (Perfect pixel mapping) Everytime the computer would boot, the 4:3 setting was in place automatically.

Tweaking for HalfLife2, I updated the ATI drivers today, reinstalled powerstrip, etc.... now the TV tries to default to wide PC all the time. Tried to rollback drivers, no luck.

The computer will always boot to wide PC. If I have the input set to 4:3 and power cycle the television, it comes back in wide PC. What is my computer sending over the DVI cable that would make the TV behave this way?

J

Originally posted by crossbeaux
I have an HLP5663 which once displayed a pristine picture. Then I was having a problem with the set not displaying video at all occasionally. The techs came out and replaced the light engine, which fixed that problem. But as soon as I used the TV with the new light engine, the picture was a bit fuzzier and not as bright. But, more importantly, the blacks and dark areas, especially when playing a DVD, were blotchy, pulsating blobs of grainy purple. (Playing the opening of the original Star Wars movie illustrates this perfectly to the technician.) The tech was just out, we went through lots of service menus filled with incomprehensible settings, and he left, scratching his head and promising to order another new light engine.

I know your set's not the same as mine. But I would say report the problem and get someone out to look at it. If anyone knows more about this problem or what to do about it, please let us know.

I've contacted Samsung and they passed me off to a local tech. I should be hearing from the tech tonight and scheduling an appointment for them to come out and look at it. Hopefully this will get fixed in a timely manner.

Originally posted by crossbeaux
I have an HLP5663 which once displayed a pristine picture. Then I was having a problem with the set not displaying video at all occasionally. The techs came out and replaced the light engine, which fixed that problem. But as soon as I used the TV with the new light engine, the picture was a bit fuzzier and not as bright. But, more importantly, the blacks and dark areas, especially when playing a DVD, were blotchy, pulsating blobs of grainy purple. (Playing the opening of the original Star Wars movie illustrates this perfectly to the technician.)


Maybe I'm just an idiot. When I learned that my second replacement light engine was on backorder, I decided to play with the video settings to see if I could make this thing watchable. I put the offending Star Wars scene (starfield) on pause and cranked on the settings. I could get the blotches to disappear when I turned the brightness down to about 28. The picture wasn't perfect, but a lot better than before. This setting is a lot lower than I had it on my previous light engine and far away from the default. Does anyone else have their brightness set that low? Are there recommended settings for the other fields (contrast, color, sharpness)?

Originally posted by Zack Allen
NinjaTurtle, I think that the new light engine will fix your problem. Tantmount to a heart/lung/kidney/liver replacment.
I think I've already had the lung, kidney, spleen and colon replaced. The heart is all that's left. ;)

I'll cross my fingers and find out Wednesday.

NinjaTurtle, this kind of stuff would never happen with our Muntz. We just had to keep moving the rabbit ears . . . .

In the next week or so I am going to make the plunge for either the 5663 or 5674 Samung and was trying to determine if the 5674 is really worth the extra $700-800. I know the basic differences between the two from the standpoint of light engines, etc., however, I was curious if anyone has had the opportunity to compare the two side by side.

I have seen the 5663 at the local Circuit City and was sold on the picture, but they did not have a 5674 for comparison. They did have a 5085, but I honestly could not make out that much of a difference (after reading through some of the posts, I have realized that I do not have a highly tuned eye). Maybe the fact that I am not a "videophile" means the 63 should do the trick, but if the 74 is worth the extra money, I would rather spend it now than kicking myself later (after getting the HD experience and starting to understand what difference the upgrade would make).

You thoughts and opinions are appreciated..

Had my HLP5063 since Sep 04. On three separate occasions, when first turning the tv on there has been an extreme green tint. I mean the entire screen was either green or grey, no other colors. You could still see the video but the colors were all wrong. This has went away each time after turning it off and back on again. Other than this the tv has been great and I love the picture. Does this hint at a bigger issue? Should I contact service tech? Thanks!

Originally posted by Zack Allen
NinjaTurtle, this kind of stuff would never happen with our Muntz. We just had to keep moving the rabbit ears . . . .

...same with our Dumont...
;)

Originally posted by AMal4
In the next week or so I am going to make the plunge for either the 5663 or 5674 Samung and was trying to determine if the 5674 is really worth the extra $700-800. I know the basic differences between the two from the standpoint of light engines, etc., however, I was curious if anyone has had the opportunity to compare the two side by side.

I have the 5663 too. I have had problems with it necessitating new light engines, and I don't know whether this model has more or fewer problems than the later ones. But when the set is working right, the picture is terrific. The 5674 wasn't available when I purchased mine, but I compared the 5063 against the 5085 and felt it wasn't worth it to spend the extra money. Just my two cents.

Originally posted by VA Ringer
Had my HLP5063 since Sep 04. On three separate occasions, when first turning the tv on there has been an extreme green tint. I mean the entire screen was either green or grey, no other colors. You could still see the video but the colors were all wrong. This has went away each time after turning it off and back on again. Other than this the tv has been great and I love the picture. Does this hint at a bigger issue? Should I contact service tech? Thanks!

I've had same issue with mine since about the same time, except mine is red. Haven't had any other problems except for the 3 or 4 times it happened. I found that when it does happen if you cycle through your sources it usually goes away without having to turn off the set. I see no problem in calling about it to see if it is a known issue and getting your problems documented with Samsung. I plan to do this eventually.

Just curious what is your firmware version...could be a firmware bug? Not too many others seem to have this issue...then again I have not seen to many posts from others with the same version as me, I am 1028.

Originally posted by AMal4
In the next week or so I am going to make the plunge for either the 5663 or 5674 Samung and was trying to determine if the 5674 is really worth the extra $700-800.
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I have seen the 5663 at the local Circuit City and was sold on the picture, but they did not have a 5674 for comparison. They did have a 5085, but I honestly could not make out that much of a difference...
<snip>
You thoughts and opinions are appreciated..
If you couldn't tell the difference between the xx63 and the xx85 then you probably won't notice an improved picture with the xx74. Save your money.

zlindsay328,
Thanks for the reply. I will try to check the firmware version tonight. Can you tell me how to find it?
The main reason I might try to get it fixed is because the wife has found the problem 2 out of 3 times. She likes the TV but I still get that feeling that it should be PERFECT for $3k.

6-months now with a 5063, July 2004, Mexico build. Purchased July 22 at CC. No problems! PQ the same today as day 1. Wife and I extremely satisfied.

So much for that cure. The service tech came today at 12:30 and replaced the Light Engine. Turned on the TV at 1:00 and he left at 1:17. At 1:35 the TV turned off and on. :mad:

This was the report from my wife since she couldn't convince the tech to come later in the day so I could be there. Time for another call to BB and hopefully a new TV. :rolleyes: