Originally posted by TrnsplantBuckeye
6-months now with a 5063, July 2004, Mexico build. Purchased July 22 at CC. No problems! PQ the same today as day 1. Wife and I extremely satisfied.

I have the exact same stats on mine and no problems, either (purchased through TVA Power Buy). July in Mexico must be the right combo...:)

Update-HLP4663
Got home last night and the TV was working, but my wife said it had shut off at least 4 times during the day. But I wanted to make sure that it was still happening for myself before I called BB (for the last time?). Also, my father-in-law suggested that maybe there was some type of power blip going on in my Monster surge protector, so just to eliminate all possible outside problems I plugged the TV directly into the wall. It seemed OK for about 2 hours and then it shut off for the 1st time. That was enough for me. Made the call and someone is supposed to call me back this morning to schedule the next (and last) visit.

Still not sure if I should take a chance on another HLP4663. I still think it has the best picture of any TV (DLP or LCD) in the <$3000 range. I even think it looks better than all the HLP4674's that I've seen. But I don't think I could deal with another lemon. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by VA Ringer
Had my HLP5063 since Sep 04. On three separate occasions, when first turning the tv on there has been an extreme green tint. I mean the entire screen was either green or grey, no other colors. You could still see the video but the colors were all wrong. This has went away each time after turning it off and back on again. Other than this the tv has been great and I love the picture. Does this hint at a bigger issue? Should I contact service tech? Thanks! I had this happen once, with a purple color. I think I even saw someone else post about the same color (tried, but could not find that post). Usually I turn on the TV first, then the STB (Samsung 360). On this day I think I might have turned on the STB first. Anyway, what I found was that when I switched input source (anything but DVI) and came back to the DVI, the problem was gone. I wrote it off as a handshake problem and have never seen it again (nor have I tried to reproduce it).

I put this up as a new thread so please forgive me but I AM EXTREMELY PISSSED!!

I havent had my HLP6163W for more than a month yet and I heard the whirring of the Color Wheel. So, I called Samsung and the had me contact the local Samsung repair shop. Although the wheel had that high pitch noise, the TV looked AWESOME!! The first time the repair guy came, he diagnosed the problem (I told him it was the color wheel) , got the serial number and told me he has to order the part. It took about a week and a half. No problem. He came back and pulled the TV apart. WHOOPS!!! Wrong part. Im pissed but understanding. So, another week goes by and the technician comes back. Well, He takes the TV apart, puts the color wheel in and puts it back together. We turn it on and the TV IS BLUE!!! I MEAN REALLY BLUE! ANother "Oh. Thats not right. Maybe I should remove the jumper" I THINK SO! So he takes the TV apart, removes the jumper and puts the TV back together. Another "Whoops"- EXTRA SCREWS! By this time, I am REALLY LATE FOR WORK! SO, he takes the TV back apart and figured out where he forgot to put the screws in....NOW THE LATEST PROBLEM!!


We turned on the TV and the faces looked good but since I was WAY LATE for work, I didnt check everything. In Maryland, we are having a BIG storm so I rented a couple of DVD's. I turn on a movie and somethings not right. OH MY GOD!! IT LOOKS AWEFUL! It looks like the whole screen is macroblocking! The blacks look green..The leaves on the trees in the background look blotchy or more like blurry square blocks...WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY TV!!!

And of course, it's Saturday and no one can help me till Sunday. Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have any ideas?!?!

I put this up as a new thread so please forgive me but I AM EXTREMELY PISSSED!!

I havent had my HLP6163W for more than a month yet and I heard the whirring of the Color Wheel. So, I called Samsung and the had me contact the local Samsung repair shop. Although the wheel had that high pitch noise, the TV looked AWESOME!! The first time the repair guy came, he diagnosed the problem (I told him it was the color wheel) , got the serial number and told me he has to order the part. It took about a week and a half. No problem. He came back and pulled the TV apart. WHOOPS!!! Wrong part. Im pissed but understanding. So, another week goes by and the technician comes back. Well, He takes the TV apart, puts the color wheel in and puts it back together. We turn it on and the TV IS BLUE!!! I MEAN REALLY BLUE! ANother "Oh. Thats not right. Maybe I should remove the jumper" I THINK SO! So he takes the TV apart, removes the jumper and puts the TV back together. Another "Whoops"- EXTRA SCREWS! By this time, I am REALLY LATE FOR WORK! SO, he takes the TV back apart and figured out where he forgot to put the screws in....NOW THE LATEST PROBLEM!!


We turned on the TV and the faces looked good but since I was WAY LATE for work, I didnt check everything. In Maryland, we are having a BIG storm so I rented a couple of DVD's. I turn on a movie and somethings not right. OH MY GOD!! IT LOOKS AWEFUL! It looks like the whole screen is macroblocking! The blacks look green..The leaves on the trees in the background look blotchy or more like blurry square blocks...WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY TV!!!

And of course, it's Saturday and no one can help me till Sunday. Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have any ideas?!?!

After calming down and thinking a bit. I know my TV didnt look this bad when he left. After reading this post does anyone think its the light engine?!?!

Not sure if it's even the same problem, but it sounds like a similar situation as what happened after the second repair to my Samsung. The picture was perfect right out of the box on HD programming and not too bad on SD. After the bulb and ballast were replaced it still looked great. But since the PCB boards were replaced the SD pictures look horribly blurry, and the HD pictures have a metallic look whenever the picture is dark or there is anything black on the screen. Replacing the light engine didn't fix that problem. The service tech was pretty much being an ass and didn't really want to listen when my wife was trying to explain that problem it to him, but it doesn't really matter now since it's going back.

I know that doesn't really help your problem, but it does show that sometime making one repair can screw other things up. :rolleyes:

Not sure if it's even the same problem, but it sounds like a similar situation as what happened after the second repair to my Samsung. The picture was perfect right out of the box on HD programming and not too bad on SD. After the bulb and ballast were replaced it still looked great. But since the PCB boards were replaced the SD pictures look horribly blurry, and the HD pictures have a metallic look whenever the picture is dark or there is anything black on the screen. Replacing the light engine didn't fix that problem. The service tech was pretty much being an ass and didn't really want to listen when my wife was trying to explain that problem it to him, but it doesn't really matter now since it's going back.

I know that doesn't really help your problem, but it does show that sometime making one repair can screw other things up. :rolleyes:

Thanks anyway. The picture was awesome right out of the box also. I checked all the connections and they are equally as bad - DVI and HDMI. I am going to call Samsung on Monday when I can get a service tech. I am also calling the repair guy to come back out. I really dont want to continue having all these problems. I bought the TV in New York and I live in Maryland. So, I just cant bring it back unless Samsung has one of the chain stores deliver one to me and take this one back

Not sure if my problem is the same as yours either. But my picture looked great out of the box too. Then, when I had the light engine replaced (refused to display picture occasionally), the picture was bad. Pixelation, blotches, unresolvable contrast and brightness issues. Bottom line, Samsung is replacing my TV. Don't have the new one yet, but the work order is in place.

When my digital board was replaced, I had horrible banding/pixelization, etc. Turns out that the "SEQ_SELECT" service mode parameter in the new board was set to the default at 5. I had written down my original settings and that parameter had been 8 on the old digital board. I changed it to 8 again and all was well. I can't tell for sure from the descriptions but that sounds like it may be the problem some of you are having. I don't know what that parameter does exactly, but it did solve my problem.

It wouldn't affect "unresolvable contrast and brightness issues" however.

My friend just got a hlp4663 and he is having trouble running pass-through on the TWC SA8300HD through HDMI, whenever a 480i signal comes through he gets a no signal error message on his TV.

Can anyone help?

It's official...my HLP4663 is a lemon. :mad: Not that I didn't know it already. Problem now is...what do I buy as a replacement? The service tech told my father-in-law that he would never recommend a Samsung and that he had replaced the light engine on one TV four times. I know he only sees the bad ones and there are plenty of good ones out there. If you're lucky enough to get one you'll enjoy it immensely, but the wife has pretty much forbid me from getting the same model (not that I hadn't ruled it out myself already). And I think that my chances of getting BB to get me a HLP4674 are pretty slim and I know this is a Sammy thread, but for those of you that are happy with yours, what would be your second choice? I'll probably be looking at the JVC, Toshiba, RCA and LG models tonight so any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Best Buy probably won't get you a 74 series... but Samsung will (or at least can).

I had a lemon 50" HLN series. Best Buy offered a replacement with a HLP 5063.

When I told them I didn't want a 63 series with wobulation which was noticably less sharp than my HLN, they said no can do on the 74 series.

I called Samsung digital services group; they ultimately agreed to do a swap out. Took about a month; I had to pay the price difference between to 5063 and the 5674 ($400).

Well worth it.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
When my digital board was replaced, I had horrible banding/pixelization, etc. Turns out that the "SEQ_SELECT" service mode parameter in the new board was set to the default at 5. I had written down my original settings and that parameter had been 8 on the old digital board. I changed it to 8 again and all was well. I can't tell for sure from the descriptions but that sounds like it may be the problem some of you are having. I don't know what that parameter does exactly, but it did solve my problem.

It wouldn't affect "unresolvable contrast and brightness issues" however.

Im going to check it out also. WHat "unresolvable contrast issues" are you talking about?

It looks like I am going to ask for a new TV...

Originally posted by tivogre
Best Buy probably won't get you a 74 series... but Samsung will (or at least can).

I had a lemon 50" HLN series. Best Buy offered a replacement with a HLP 5063.

When I told them I didn't want a 63 series with wobulation which was noticably less sharp than my HLN, they said no can do on the 74 series.

I called Samsung digital services group; they ultimately agreed to do a swap out. Took about a month; I had to pay the price difference between to 5063 and the 5674 ($400).

Well worth it.
Well, they couldn't get me the 4674...but Magnolia could! :eek:

As bad as the experience was through the Best Buy 888 service center and with the original tech who came out, I must commend my local Best Buy on how they took care of my problem tonight.

I went in with all my repair receipts and the lemon certification that the new tech left today and to my surprise they took me to the Magnolia department at the back of the store and asked me what I wanted. I said the HLP4674, of course! ;) (actually, due to the space limitations of my entertainment center I couldn't really go any bigger than 46", so my choices were limited...otherwise I would have been seriously looking at the 52" JVC). Anyway, they didn't have one in stock but after a few calls they found one and said they would pick it up tomorrow. I had to pay the difference in price which was about $420 (I got 12% off the original TV...they gave me 10% off the new one), but what I was happy, and surprised with, was they credited me back a pro-rated amount on my PSP ($375) and applied it to the $400 Magnolia service plan...without me even having to ask. So out the door it cost me $475.

It was going to take until Saturday for them to pick up the 4663 and deliver the 4674, so I told them I would go get the old one and bring it to them, and then pick up the new one when it comes in. Tomorrow night I should have it. Here's hoping for better luck with the new one. ;)

Originally posted by bigjohns1997SS
My friend just got a hlp4663 and he is having trouble running pass-through on the TWC SA8300HD through HDMI, whenever a 480i signal comes through he gets a no signal error message on his TV.

Can anyone help?

The TV doesn't support 480i over DVI/HDMI. Go in to the HDTV setup menu on the SA8300HD and disable 480i mode. Works for me...

Originally posted by EricJRW
I had this happen once, with a purple color. I think I even saw someone else post about the same color (tried, but could not find that post). Usually I turn on the TV first, then the STB (Samsung 360). On this day I think I might have turned on the STB first. Anyway, what I found was that when I switched input source (anything but DVI) and came back to the DVI, the problem was gone. I wrote it off as a handshake problem and have never seen it again (nor have I tried to reproduce it).

i think i may be the one you were referring to. I got a purplish pink hue when i do it, and it happens regularly for me. I have always had my STB on and always leave it on, so nothing changed. That and it happens when I play xbox, etc. If i cycled through the inputs it usally goes away, once i had to turn it off and back on. I called service for it and they are replacing my digital board and said they never heard of the problem.

This is interesting...I just called Samsung and they have another tech coming to replace the light engine.

But listen to this - when I read off my serial number off my TV to the Samsung tech, she said that it sounds like my TV was made in 2003 but it is stamped 2004! WIERD. She is checking on it and will come back tomorrow. ANyone know how the serial number breaks down? What I mean is, for example - certain characters in a serial number reflect what month/year stuff is made, series, etc...A VIN number on a car reflects what year the car is, color, engine tyoe, where it was made, etc...

So far, so good. New HLP4674 looks great. The picture is different from the 4663...not quite as smooth, but more defined. The HD channels look great and the SD channels are actually much clearer than they were before. The most notable difference to me was on DVD's. I popped in Finding Nemo (my usual choice for testing due to the vibrant colors and detailed scenery) and it was absolutely outstanding! The difference in the detail of the picture with the new chip is definitely visable.

One question I do have...and it's only after a few hours of viewing. There is a much more noticeable sound coming from the TV. I don't know if it's the fan or the color wheel. It's not a high pitched squeak or anything like that...just sort of a running motor sound. It's only apparent when the volume is at 5 or below...but unfortunately I do have to watch it that low at night when everyone else is asleep. When the volume is higher or I have the surround sound on I don't hear it. Is this something to be concerned about, or just a normal by-product of this technology? (I had virtually no motor/wheel sounds in the 4663). Other than that I am very pleased.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks. :D

Originally posted by NinjaTurtle
So far, so good. New HLP4674 looks great. The picture is different from the 4663...not quite as smooth, but more defined. The HD channels look great and the SD channels are actually much clearer than they were before. The most notable difference to me was on DVD's. I popped in Finding Nemo (my usual choice for testing due to the vibrant colors and detailed scenery) and it was absolutely outstanding! The difference in the detail of the picture with the new chip is definitely visable.

One question I do have...and it's only after a few hours of viewing. There is a much more noticeable sound coming from the TV. I don't know if it's the fan or the color wheel. It's not a high pitched squeak or anything like that...just sort of a running motor sound. It's only apparent when the volume is at 5 or below...but unfortunately I do have to watch it that low at night when everyone else is asleep. When the volume is higher or I have the surround sound on I don't hear it. Is this something to be concerned about, or just a normal by-product of this technology? (I had virtually no motor/wheel sounds in the 4663). Other than that I am very pleased.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks. :D

I also have a 4674 & "upgraded" from a 5063 for the better PQ. Without hearing it, can't be 100% sure, but there is a bit more fan noise from this TV than my 5063, so it's probably normal. If you're at all concerned, I'd get a tech out there to give it a listen - just to be safe & have it on record in case it becomes more of a problem...

I've had my HLP6163W for 5 months now. Recently, about twice a week, the screen goes completely blank. Audio still working. No menus come up: Nothing except total blank. I can still see the light in the back of the set still on though. I fix it by powering down and then up again which brings the TV back to the "Air" input and then I switch it to HDMI.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Originally posted by zubinh
I've had my HLP6163W for 5 months now. Recently, about twice a week, the screen goes completely blank. Audio still working. No menus come up: Nothing except total blank. I can still see the light in the back of the set still on though. I fix it by powering down and then up again which brings the TV back to the "Air" input and then I switch it to HDMI.

Has anyone else had this issue?
I've had similar problems with my 5663, although mine never went blank during the middle of a transmission (just when I turned it on or switched to a different type of video signal). I believe there are similar reports earlier in this thread. Call Samsung and report the problem. They replaced my light engine. It fixed that problem, but now I have a different one and they're working on that too.

Originally posted by EricJRW
I had this happen once, with a purple color. I think I even saw someone else post about the same color (tried, but could not find that post). Usually I turn on the TV first, then the STB (Samsung 360). On this day I think I might have turned on the STB first. Anyway, what I found was that when I switched input source (anything but DVI) and came back to the DVI, the problem was gone. I wrote it off as a handshake problem and have never seen it again (nor have I tried to reproduce it).

Eric,

I just read your post about your Sammy having a pink tint when powering up. Mine has done this as well. I run my DirecTivo unit through S-video and always leave it on. On two occasions, I powered up my Sammy display with my DirecTivo already selected (STB). When the picture came up, I noticed that all the whites had a very pink tint. If I cycled through the sources, back to STB, it went away. On one of the occasions, I went into the User menu of the Sammy, and it too had the pink tint, so I don't think the problem is with the DirecTivo unit. I haven't been able to reproduce the problem again. I called Samsung service and they are ordering a new light engine for me. The tech had never seen the problem before and wasn't sure of the cause. They are also going to replace my screen due to smudges.

Eric, have you done anything about this problem or had service look at it?

Has anyone else seen or heard of this problem?

I have had a hard time finding anyone else that has this problem, and would love to know what causes it. If anyone else has any info about this problem, please share it.

I too have the occasional purple issue with my 5063. My tech researched the issue and told me that if the menu is purple the DMD board needs to be replaced and if the menu is not purple only the "Digital" board needs to be replaced. I unfortunately couldn't remember 100% whether the menu was purple or not, so I'm waiting until it happens again. I'm pretty sure the menu was purple though, so I guess I'll be seeing a new DMD board soon.

/Anders

My sammy 63w melody sound no longer works when the television shuts off. But it makes a sound when you turn it on. Is this the start of something, or just me being paranoid.

gimletmaker... read a few posts up. A couple of us have this problem. I am getting my digital board replaced tomorrorw (wasnt asked about the menu, etc) I will see if the problem happens again... on a side note i should get a pretty decent upgrade with the digital board as my tv was one of the first batch sold, hopefully the new board and firmware are an improvement also :)

Originally posted by slikkrock
My sammy 63w melody sound no longer works when the television shuts off. But it makes a sound when you turn it on. Is this the start of something, or just me being paranoid.
Are you sure the melody ever worked when turning off? Mine only works when turning on.

Originally posted by crossbeaux
Are you sure the melody ever worked when turning off? Mine only works when turning on.

mine works when both turning on and off. My family finds it very usefull to be sure it has been turned off.

Yes it previously worked when powering down, now it doesn't. I too found it useful when it sounded when powering down, now people are turning the tv on and off to make sure. Thus, probably not the best thing to do with this television.

Originally posted by slikkrock
Yes it previously worked when powering down, now it doesn't. I too found it useful when it sounded when powering down, now people are turning the tv on and off to make sure. Thus, probably not the best thing to do with this television.
Hmm. Interesting. I didn't turn on the TV specially to check this. I just didn't respond until this morning to make sure how mine worked. Anyway, the red lights on the front panel go on when the set is off. That's how I tell (5663). Maybe some iterations of the set work differently. But it doesn't explain why yours changed.

Mine use to chime when going on and off, now only when going on after 1035 firmware upgrade/repair.

I guess you've gotten used to doing the same thing over and over again ;)

:) :) :)

Well, the service tech couldnt fix the problem and now I have a call into Samsung again. First it was the color wheel, then it was the light box and now he is saying it is the digital CHIP!!

I asked Samsung for a new TV and of COURSE, the lady will NOT be back until Monday so the Superbowl partay at my house is a BUST!!!

Y'know, my shutdown sound magically reappeared this weekend after having been AWOL for a little over a month. I chalked it up to my son having inadvertently changed a setting because he liked to turn off the TV manually. Now I wonder if it's an actual problem with the TV.

Is there an actual setting to toggle this? If not, then I have to now start the process of determining if this requires some kind of service action.

Thanks,
J.

Originally posted by jimhong12
Is there an actual setting to toggle this? If not, then I have to now start the process of determining if this requires some kind of service action.

There is a setting in the user menu to turn toggle the On/Off Melody. It's in the index and on page 77 in my manual. Look up "Setting The "On/Off" Melody" in your manual.

Or press your Menu button and select "Setup". Move down to "Melody" and press "Enter".

Select "On" or "Off" and press "Exit".

Originally posted by htwaits


Hi. I'm new to the group and just ran across this thread re: screen "smudge". I'm on my second 50" DLP and BOTH had this these "water markings/ smudge" in the screen. I can make them mostly dissipate by applying pressure w/ a cleaning cloth, but it comes back within a few days.

Is there a permanent solution by Samsung? They tried to fixed the first one but made a mess of it - trapping carpet fibers between the 2 plastic screens! They advised me that replacement screens are shipped in 2 pieces and then assembled in the customer's home - don't want to go there again...

Thanks, Ron

Originally posted by ronyu_us
Hi. I'm new to the group and just ran across this thread re: screen "smudge". I'm on my second 50" DLP and BOTH had this these "water markings/ smudge" in the screen. I can make them mostly dissipate by applying pressure w/ a cleaning cloth, but it comes back within a few days.

Is there a permanent solution by Samsung? They tried to fixed the first one but made a mess of it - trapping carpet fibers between the 2 plastic screens! They advised me that replacement screens are shipped in 2 pieces and then assembled in the customer's home - don't want to go there again...

Thanks, Ron

Welcome to the Forum Ron!

You can read more about the smudge issue here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=476437

Originally posted by EricScott
I have reported this before and didn't get any responses - wondering if other people are experiencing this behavior - it's not really a problem or at least not yet:

My HLP5063 periodically (at least one - three times a night), both when the TV is on and after I have turned it off (sometimes 30 mins to an hour after) makes these loud popping noises that literally sound like something inside the TV is breaking. Sounds like you are cracking a piece of plastic or something. No other way to describe it. It is not a mechanical noise at all and it is quite loud and always sounds the same.

I have not noticed any problems whatsoever as a result of this but it is a little disconcerting b/c the noise does not sound good. I am worried that over time it could turn into a problem.

Anyone else experiencing this?

I have been searching the forum and found only this one post (with another person confirming) about this issue.

I'm curious if anyone else is experiencing this and has anyone followed up w/ Samsung regarding it.

Mine pops and cracks so loud it startles both me and my dog when it happens. It happens several times per viewing session....about twice an hour. And again, often when the TV has been on for quite a while, so I'd be surprised if it's plastic expanding from heat.

Originally posted by andersa
I too have the occasional purple issue with my 5063. My tech researched the issue and told me that if the menu is purple the DMD board needs to be replaced and if the menu is not purple only the "Digital" board needs to be replaced. I unfortunately couldn't remember 100% whether the menu was purple or not, so I'm waiting until it happens again. I'm pretty sure the menu was purple though, so I guess I'll be seeing a new DMD board soon.

/Anders

Interesting, I have this problem on my HDMI input. I don't recall if I tried changing inputs or not, that last 2 times (I rarely use the DVD on HDMI...usually use the PC on DVI) I unplugged the HDMI cable, plugged it back in, then the problem went away. I usually turn on the DVD first.

Originally posted by Geckotek
I have been searching the forum and found only this one post (with another person confirming) about this issue.

I'm curious if anyone else is experiencing this and has anyone followed up w/ Samsung regarding it.

Mine pops and cracks so loud it startles both me and my dog when it happens. It happens several times per viewing session....about twice an hour. And again, often when the TV has been on for quite a while, so I'd be surprised if it's plastic expanding from heat.

Wow that was an old post. I still hear the popping sounds regularly. Both while viewing and after I turn off the set. Very loud and fairly regular as you described. I've learned to deal with it but it certainly doesn't make me happy that my $3k TV sounds like it's about to explode.

I am having a problem with my HLP4663w. All my inputs were working fine up until the other day when i turned on my tv, and my component 1 inputs whre in black in white, i tried hooking up a couple different sources (hd stb, ps2, xbox) and they all came through black and white. all my other inputs (component 2, dvi rgb and hdm) are all working the way they should. When hooked up to component 1 when i bring up the menue on the tv, itis in color, so i know it has to do with the inputs or settings somwhere. can anybody help?

GeckoTek & Eric

I, too have also the same loud noise on occasion with my HLP6163w. I thought it was the TV "settling" on the TV stand. Kind of like you hear a house settling. Anyway, glad to hear I'm not the only one.

I wish sony made DLP's. Maybey the quality wouldve been better.

Originally posted by zubinh
GeckoTek & Eric

I, too have also the same loud noise on occasion with my HLP6163w. I thought it was the TV "settling" on the TV stand. Kind of like you hear a house settling. Anyway, glad to hear I'm not the only one.

I wish sony made DLP's. Maybey the quality wouldve been better.

Well, I'm gonna call Samsung on it soon. Just wanted to see if others had called yet.

Edit: Just cracked again.

Only thing I can think of, I just moved it from sitting on my coffee table to a new stand I bought @ IKEA. Can't recall if it made noise before that or not.

I also hear the cracking noise periodically with the TV on and off. I am unsure of the cause, I assumed because of the large amount of plastic surface area involved (which seems to be the major supporting material) and the daily changes in temperature, it is the expansion and contraction of the plastic parts.
Just my two cents.

I see some other folks are experiencing the disappearing power down or off melody. I too have had this problem for a while now. Basically when the TV was new, it played a melody on power up and shut down. After about a month it stopped making the melody on the shut down but still plays it every time in the start up. Being an engineer I got worried b/c things don't just stop without reason in my world. But hey picture works so I am good, then after the set was about 3 months old I turned it on one night and got no melody and no picture just a flashing lamp light but the screen was "backlit" and the lamp was on but no picture displayed and the "no input" blocks did not show. Then I tried to turn it off by remote and front panel button to get the lamp light off but it wouldn't turn off! Cycle the circuit breaker (power cord difficult to reach) off for 10 seconds and bam the TV came on all by itself AND it worked perfect. Called Samsung, they sent out a tech, he replaced the lamp and ballast.

Melody for on and off working fine, a month later melody for off quit working, then my Mom babysits for us and when I get home the off melody is working again... only thing she remembers doing is turning it off at the front panel instead of w/ the remote. Melody works for a week and then quits on the power down! Two months later (ie last week) turn the tv on one night and guess what, no picture just the flashing lamp light, same as before. Technician comes out, replaces light engine and digital board. Powers on, melody, powers off, melody, goes into service menu adjusts stuff, and on power down, no melody! He has no clue why this is occurring and not to mention now with the new components my 4:3 picture is a trapezoid... a full 1" shorter in width at the top than at the bottom.

Call Samsung and they do two things, 1) fill out a VOC form to see if they will replace the entire TV and 2) set up another service with the same guy to install a new light engine b/c the mounting of the microMirror can cause this and isn't adjustable but depends on the way it is mounted at light engine manufacture.....

Basically I have about 2% confidence my $2500 TV is going to make 6 more months without failing again...

Any insight into this from the community is much appreciated.
:D
Did a little google searching and found this on another forum, figured I would share and give credit where credit is due (THANKS DREAMER), I found this on another site and tested it out and it works, the melody off is controled by the TV volume setting but not the melody on!!!

TheDreamer
06-25-2004, 08:39 PM
Well, I had every intention of taking it up higher at Sears....except as I was leaving home today....I heard my TV make the melody tone when I was turning it off.

Now after some more investigation....I found what seems to be a strange quirk in the TV design.

If you have the volume setting all the way off to 0...it won't play the melody tone when turning off...but it will still do it for turning on.

Strange that neither Samsung or Sears knew about this.....

The Dreamer

Originally posted by dwduck

Basically I have about 2% confidence my $2500 TV is going to make 6 more months without failing again...

Any insight into this from the community is much appreciated.


I had problems similar to yours, and I'm now on my second TV (5663) after Samsung replaced the first. Everything worked fine with the second set until a week or so ago. Then it experienced the same problem yours did (no picture, flashing lamp light, unable to be turned off). (Same problem as my first set.) After I pulled the plug, the set acted like yours, coming on immediately and displaying picture. However, when I turned it off, it didn't do the melody-off. That was a red flag for me, but everything's worked fine since, including melody-off. I didn't know about the relationship between volume and melody-off, but I route sound through my receiver, so that never changes on my set. If the problem happens again, I'll be calling Samsung again. And I make it a point to pay attention to the melody-off.

My HLP5085 wouldn't suddenly respond one day. All the front panel lights were on. I had to power it down, by pulling the plug. If yours is similar, it sounds like a software issue, which can be resolved by a reboot (term popularized by Microsoft :-)). Sometimes even my DVD players needs a reboot. Very soon, oven, refrigerators, toasters etc would need a reboot . Aren't you fascinated by high technology ? :-)

I am starting to get a problem with my set [HLP6163]. About every fourth or fifth time I turn it on, the screen is "red", very red. I have to unplug it, wait about 5 minutes, then everything seems fine.

I have still not received my extended warranty card from TVA (although I am in my first year of service)- it's been several months now.

Originally posted by supershawn
I have still not received my extended warranty card from TVA (although I am in my first year of service)- it's been several months now.
Do you have a telephone? ;)

I am about to go ballistic soon. I havent had a fully functional TV in 8 weeks. It took 4 weeks (2 service calls) before set was taken into shop. Its going on 4 weeks now since the shop had the set and still no news, phone'd Samsung twice. They offered to extend my warrantee for the period of time the work order was issued. Explain to them that the additional warrantte is meaningless since I bought an extended warrantee on the set and the double warrantee will do me no good.

The set I have is the the HLP6163. Delivered at the end of Sept/04.

Initial probm after about 2 months was the image shifted to to the right. Had digital board (FW ugraded by board) replaced but the replacement cause more probms. Image still shifted (not as much) but added the following probm's. Color has a metalic shean, most source are blown out like brightness or contrast are set too high, cable connection is really blown out to the point of being unwatchable, very noticeable pin cushioning an all screen modes, color banding and pic tiled down on right side.

I am patient but I think after 8 weeks, I can go ballistric with Samsung and the the local repair shop that was rec by Samsung since they never phone back on status as they said they would.

Venting done....

EDIT:
supershawn

I had the same red issue before my set started to act up.

I am calling them today. (hint well taken)

The red "thing" has started to worry me. Especially as I travel a lot and if it goes while I am gone the wife will go crazy.

To those experiencing the "red screen" --

What STB do you have?

I have my 4663 hooked up to an SA8300HD via HDMI as do some others I know and we each have had the "red screen" appear occasionally. All it usually takes is to turn if off/on or just change inputs back and forth to get rid of it.

I'm trying to figure out if it is the 4663 or the STB.

I think I have also experienced the "red screen" problem that is currently being discussed here. If the problem I am about to describe is not the same as the one being discussed, then accept my apologies.

On two occasions I have powered up my HL-P5063 and all the whites are pinkish- red. On both occasions that I experienced this issue, I had the input device on the DLP set to my directivo box via S-video. I then cycle through the inputs via the remote, and when it gets full circle back to the directivo input, the problem disappears. I had service out and they replaced my light engine (and screen due to smudges). Prior to their visit, I had only seen the problem twice and haven't seen it since, however, it was very intermittant (only twice in a one month period). To answer Bruce Fan, my tech is convinced that it is not the actual input device (directivo box) that is malfunctioning, since the problem remains even if the user menu of the DLP is accessed while experiencing the problem (ie. the whites are still red even in the menu system, which is input independant). I am not yet convinced that the problem was fixed, since it happened so infrequently from the start. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to diagnose a problem that is very intermittant.

Has anyone had this problem on a more consistant basis? If so, what was done to repair the problem?

I have experienced the red screen when powering up via HDMI DVD and HD Sat via Component. I have a 6163.

When ever I switch to DVD (through component cables) I get these waivy lines that are purple/pink in color like they pulse douwn the screen, after about an hour and a half they seem to go away and the picture is great
Any ideas what it could be?

Originally posted by jag2005
When ever I switch to DVD (through component cables) I get these waivy lines that are purple/pink in color like they pulse douwn the screen, after about an hour and a half they seem to go away and the picture is great
Any ideas what it could be?
Can you swap cables, connections, or DVD players? It could be any of those things plus your TV.

This has probably been answered many times and for that I apologive. What is the difference between the HLP5063 and 74 models?

Thanks
Chris

Originally posted by rolltide1017
This has probably been answered many times and for that I apologive. What is the difference between the HLP5063 and 74 models?

Thanks
Chris
The HLPxx74 sets are built on the HLN467 and HLN567 cases and light engines. The HD2 chip has been replaced with the HD2+ chip but the six element color wheel is still used. The DLP chip has one mirror for each pixel on the screen and a contrast ratio of 2,000:1.

The HLPxx63 sets have a new light engine, and a case that is not as deep as the HLPxx74 sets. The DLP chip is the HD3 "wobble" which has one mirror controlling two diamond shaped pixels on the screen. The HLPxx63 light engine uses a seven element color wheel and has a contrast ratio of 1,500:1.

Most think that the HLPxx74 sets produce a sharper image and that the softer HLPxx63 image may be smother. The HLPxx74 sets probably have deeper blacks and the HLPxx63 sets might have better detail (due to the color wheel) in dark scenes.

I may have forgotten some things that the HLPxx74 owners would add.

63 is 3rd gen, 74 is 2+ gen. EDIT: What hdwaits said.

well, I'm the proud owner of a new hlp6163 - one week now. HD looks incredible (comcast/sci-atlanta dvr box through component) and my new LG dvd player using the HDMI is absolutely awsome (some intermittant lip sync on certain dvd's, but nothing terrible - the LG player does feel quite "cheap" compared to my old sony though, just made with flimsy plastic, I'm sure the tray will break eventually)

Anyway, I definately have the smudges that are pretty well documented here - left and right sides of the screen, verticle, kind of dirty looking, in fact, first time I turned the set on I tried wiping them away, then realized they're inside, not out. Anyway, the set is in a basement media room, kind of chilly, but very dry (especially now in dead of northeast winter). The smudges do go away after about a half hour or so when the set and the room heat up a bit. I saw the "wipe the area with a soft cloth" fix noted in early threads here and will give it a try.

My question is, do these eventually go away forever, or will this be an issue forever? AND, more importantly, is it something that has been corrected that I should get the "new screen" fix from samsung - or will I likely experience it with a new screen too, so why bother opening up a tv set that, (knocking on wood) right out of the box has an absolutely stunning picture.

Thanks for all the great advice I've gotten from this site, all this info made a big difference in my decision to get this set - and having spent at least a hundred hours watching INHD over the past week, I'm still stunned by its picture - I can sit there almost in a trance for hours with it.

The smudge on my original 6163 disappeared after a gentle wipe. Hope my new 6163 replacement (not smudge related) set dont have smudges.

There is another thread discussing the smudge problem and its fix. In general, they do not go away. The replacement screens do fix it and seem to work well (on my 5063).

I am experiencing a similar problem, and was wondering how yours was resolved. Did the factory service rep resolve it? What part was defective? I have a green blinking light. So far it resolves itself when we shut off the power supply and then reboot, but I am looking for a reason this happens. Thank goodness for the extended warranty!

Samsung is coming out today. They are replacing a "board" (I think it started with a D or B). They said 90% of time it fixes the problem and that it is common. I'll let you know how things go.

Well, they came and replaced the board. The first board wsa bad out of the box, the second worked. BUT, I noticed today (it was 9PM when they left last night and I didn't look close enough) that there is about 1/2 inch in the upper right and 3/4 inch down the lft side not used- the picture looks bowed. looks like the convergence is completely screwed. This kinda upsets me.

edit to remove double post (sorry)

Originally posted by supershawn
Well, they came and replaced the board. The first board wsa bad out of the box, the second worked. BUT, I noticed today (it was 9PM when they left last night and I didn't look close enough) that there is about 1/2 inch in the upper right and 3/4 inch down the lft side not used- the picture looks bowed. looks like the convergence is completely screwed. This kinda upsets me.

There really isn't any 'convergence' like standard CRT televisions. It sounds like they screwed up something with the light engine. Maybe, during the replacement of the circuit board, they misaligned the whole assembly. You need to have them come back; but you might check to see if the bulb is installed incorrectly. This is a customer replaceable part and there are instructions on how to install the lamp in the manual.

Probably worth a shot.

Thanks for the tip! 2.5 months later... Samsung finally replaced the screen and it's sa-weeeet! The Samsung repair man said he's swapping these out like hot cakes. In fact, the screen was back ordered for several weeks. He claims that many screens were damaged because they were stacking screens on top of each other which damaged the seals. Samsung has since corrected that manufacturing/ shipping problem.

While he was at it, he also helped me reconfigure my Comcast (Motorola) box to send HD signals through my DVI port. The picture was noticably sharper than w/ 1080i (via component cables). This shows how lame the Comcast service guys are since they couldn't do it. Anyway, I have the Samsung 931 DVD player that "upconverts" DVDs to 720p BUT I only have 1 DVI input. What's an HD hungry guy to do?! So I went and bought a DVI switch box. If anyone is interested check out:

I'm not allowed to type in the url so here's a work around <dubdubdub>.lenexpo-electronics<dotcom>/msg_search.php?text=VIDEO%20SWITCHERS

You want DS-21R. Those guys (Michael) was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. This manufacturer/ model has firmware updates that supports HDCP on Samsung units. Genfen apparently has some compatibility problems that people have run into. I hooked it up this weekend and all is well!

Apparently, the nex-gen Samsung DLPs will have multiple DVI ports, duh! Meanwhile, poor early adopters like us have to suffer through it all!

Originally posted by rshaw
There really isn't any 'convergence' like standard CRT televisions. It sounds like they screwed up something with the light engine. Maybe, during the replacement of the circuit board, they misaligned the whole assembly. You need to have them come back; but you might check to see if the bulb is installed incorrectly. This is a customer replaceable part and there are instructions on how to install the lamp in the manual.

Probably worth a shot.


Thanks- they came out and straightened out the picture. He also showed me how to do it in the future. Unfortunately, I got the blinking lamp light problem again today and won't be able to try it out- I am dead in the water again!!!

I am going to have to call and place another service call tomorrow...looks like another couple days without TV (the horror!).

I am guessing they are going to replace the whole engine this time. If thats what they do, do I have to wait another 150 or so hours before I get it ISF calibrated?

I've heard repeatedly that it's best to turn off Digital NR. But I can't find anything wrong with this feature.

It seems to me that it does exactly what it's supposed to do; remove dot crawl without compromising the original image. What exactly are the cons of this feature?

It softens details, and adds motion artifacts. Dot crawl is specific to composite input, and if you have a low quality input signal, the noise reduction can perhaps make it look a little better, but it has no value for a high quality (DVD or HD STB) input.

Originally posted by Cheezmo
It softens details, and adds motion artifacts. Dot crawl is specific to composite input, and if you have a low quality input signal, the noise reduction can perhaps make it look a little better, but it has no value for a high quality (DVD or HD STB) input.

I'm testing the feature with my HD tuner, which is connected to the set through DVI. What it removes is the barely noticeable snow that most likely is coming from the actual cameras used by a show. Very faint, but I'm very perceptive. ;)

I just wanted to know why exactly DNR is so frowned upon. Thanks.

Probably film grain. Smoothing it out also smooths out real detail in the source. As long as you realize what you are doing ;)

Originally posted by Cheezmo
Probably film grain. Smoothing it out also smooths out real detail in the source. As long as you realize what you are doing ;)

Right now I'm switching between the two. But now that I know what it may do to the original image, I'll probably just leave it turned off.

Originally posted by victor_c26
I've heard repeatedly that it's best to turn off Digital NR. But I can't find anything wrong with this feature.

It seems to me that it does exactly what it's supposed to do; remove dot crawl without compromising the original image. What exactly are the cons of this feature?

It also adds to the video/audio sync problem.

I have a Samsung HLP4663W. It seems to be functioning properly. I noticed that I have DLR and DNiE turned ON.

Can someone explain, in reasonably simple terms, why some have recommended turning these features OFF?? I am inclined to leave "well enough alone" but would appreciate a better understanding.

I have only had the set for about 2 weeks and I am connected via Comcast component cables. My DVD player is connected via DVI to DVI connections. I have an old Onkyo audio surround system and when I use it the stereo sounds good to me--but then I am not YET really as discerning as I may be.

Any other suggestions as to the best possible set ups will also be appreciated.

Thanks for any input!

Because they alter the image in undesirable ways (at least if you want the image as accurate as possible). Look at text on the OSD of a set top box/DVD player, etc. and turn it on and off. You should see that turning DNIe on adds all kinds of false edginess to text (highlights around the edges, etc.). It also does some other subtle things like altering the gamma, making the black level "float", etc. that just lead to a less accurate and less natural reproduction of the original image.

I'm not saying some people might not prefer the "look" that it creates, but for the most accurate images, you need to turn them both off.

It appears you do this for a living. What does it cost? Do you know of anyone in Tucson, AZ that does this? Are there other tools I can use to "calibrate" myself?

Try ISFForum.com (http://www.isfforum.com) for a couple of places to find local calibrators.

Will post this here and remove it from the board...

I noticed something a bit strange on my two months old HLP 4663. When I switch the TV on from the side switch, it does not go in standby mode but literally goes on and displays the blue source screen or the TV channel. Some friends of mine have the same model and theirs goes to standby instead and then you have to get it out of stand by using the remote control.

Any ideas why this is so on mine? Perhaps others have this kind of startup sequence?? Don't know if this can be classified as a fault or not

My Samsung HLP 50" is mysteriously turning itself off from time to tiime. Does anyone else have experience with this happening? I was able to exchange my faulty HLN a while back and have had the HLP for about six months or so. This random powering off just started about two weeks ago and seems to be happening more and more frequently.

Thanks in advance.

Check to see if youre having the blank screen problem. Is it completely off or just a blank screen? Do you see the light in the back of the set?

After one year, I can report no serious problems.

Once or twice the set wouldn't turn on, but that was easily fixed by cutting/restoring the power to the set.

I noticed the lip-sync problem a few times, but haven't experienced it recently.

Overall, my HPL is a solid performer that delivers a stunning picture with the right signal.

Originally posted by AkaStp
If you've only had the TV for 6 months you are still covered by Samsung's warranty so why not call Samsung right away to get them out to fix the problem?

The set is turning completely off, not just a blank screen. I'm hesitant to the tech come out. My HLN had a high pitched whine coming from the color wheel. The tech that Samsung sent out replaced the entire opticl engine and I had far more problems after the repair, ultimately ending up with Samsung replacing the HLN with the HLP. If no one else has experienced this spontaneous powering off then I will contact Samsung, but I'm hopeful it is just a minor problem that can be fixed without a tech.

Originally posted by Your User Name:
If no one else has experienced this spontaneous powering off then I will contact Samsung, but I'm hopeful it is just a minor problem that can be fixed without a tech.
It's not something you can fix.

I just bought an HLP 5063. It was floor model at BB. Got it for 1700 plus 15% off for open box items. I think it was a great deal. I have been reading alot of the pages on this thread and I am beginning to get scared. Everything is ok so far, but compared to you guys I am an amateur. We will see how it goes. Samsung is really good on the CS. I got the wrong remote from BB and they are sending me a new one.

Herby [/i] wrote: "I just bought an HLP 5063. It was floor model at BB. Got it for 1700 plus 15% off for open box items. I think it was a great deal. I have been reading alot of the pages on this thread and I am beginning to get scared. Everything is ok so far, but compared to you guys I am an amateur. We will see how it goes. Samsung is really good on the CS. I got the wrong remote from BB and they are sending me a new one. "

_____________________________

Yes you did get a good deal although I guess some of your lamp hours were used with the thing sitting on the floor in dynamic picture mode. I paid $700 more than you did, for the 46 inch version of the same model. It has been completely trouble free.

BTW be sure to change the picture from dynamic mode to standard mode for TV shows, in order to extend the life of the lamp, and be sure to turn down the light in the room and try the very nice cinema picture mode for films.

You may be able to add a maintanance plan within 30 days of purchase, if you are nervous about relability.

Also, Samsung used to extend their 12-month warrranty to 15 months, if you register your purchase immediately, and maybe they still do this.

It was claimed by a CC rep that the City Advantage Plan that they sell includes a lamp replacement, if the existing one fails within the four-year term of the plan. BB's plan may be different (and CC's may not cover the lamp despite what I was told).

Some people think maintenance plans are just overpriced insurance, but with these TV sets being so new, I chucked out the $400 for a plan, and it may or may turn out to be pure profit for CC. On the other hand, I doubt that lots of maintenance plans got sold based on this kind of reasoning when transistors displaced vacuum tubes in TV sets.

Originally posted by Zack Allen
Herby [/i] wrote: "I just bought an HLP 5063. It was floor model at BB. Got it for 1700 plus 15% off for open box items. I think it was a great deal. I have been reading alot of the pages on this thread and I am beginning to get scared. Everything is ok so far, but compared to you guys I am an amateur. We will see how it goes. Samsung is really good on the CS. I got the wrong remote from BB and they are sending me a new one. "

_____________________________

Yes you did get a good deal although I guess some of your lamp hours were used with the thing sitting on the floor in dynamic picture mode. I paid $700 more than you did, for the 46 inch version of the same model. It has been completely trouble free.

BTW be sure to change the picture from dynamic mode to standard mode for TV shows, in order to extend the life of the lamp, and be sure to turn down the light in the room and try the very nice cinema picture mode for films.

You may be able to add a maintanance plan within 30 days of purchase, if you are nervous about relability.

Also, Samsung used to extend their 12-month warrranty to 15 months, if you register your purchase immediately, and maybe they still do this.

It was claimed by a CC rep that the City Advantage Plan that they sell includes a lamp replacement, if the existing one fails within the four-year term of the plan. BB's plan may be different (and CC's may not cover the lamp despite what I was told).

Some people think maintenance plans are just overpriced insurance, but with these TV sets being so new, I chucked out the $400 for a plan, and it may or may turn out to be pure profit for CC. On the other hand, I doubt that lots of maintenance plans got sold based on this kind of reasoning when transistors displaced vacuum tubes in TV sets.

Zuck Thanks for the reply.
Yes I registered immeditely on the Samsung website just before you posted and noticed I got the warranty extended. So that is nice.

With the money I saved I purchased the 4 year plan at BB for 400 bucks. They say they replace bulbs, so that is good.

By the way, how do I know what firmware version I have and if I need to update it.

Originally posted by Zack Allen
BTW be sure to change the picture from dynamic mode to standard mode for TV shows, in order to extend the life of the lamp, and be sure to turn down the light in the room and try the very nice cinema picture mode for films.
You can improve PQ by using a mode other than dynamic but it has no effect on lamp life. The lamp in HLP sets is full on regardless of settings selected by the user.

Originally posted by Herby
By the way, how do I know what firmware version I have and if I need to update it.
The firmware for your set is at the bottom of the service menu. There is no way to change the firmware with out replacing the digital board on the set. That is expensive.

If you have the firmware version that ends with 1035 then you have all the significant HLP firmware changes.

Here are some instructions for going into the service menu.

Originally posted by millerwill
htwaits: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)
Can one idiot protect other idiots? ;)

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

Ok that sequence is not working. I think it might be the remote since BB gave me the wrong remote. I will wait until I get the original remote from Sammy. In an unrelated question, I found a Sound and Vision DVD at Kmart on Clearance(changing to Sears Essentials) for 8 bucks. I read about DVE on other threads but can't find what it means(I searched). Is it good or should I buy something else? I really want to get the most out of this TV. Thanks for your help guys.

HTWaits wrote: "You can improve PQ by using a mode other than dynamic but it has no effect on lamp life. The lamp in HLP sets is full on regardless of settings selected by the user."

Sorry for the misinformation. So the lamp is always on at full power even in Cinema mode? I am surprised to learn that. Thanks for correcting my error.

Still, the dynamic setting is intended only for very bright environments, as in a retail store.

I was relunctant to use dynamic mode, even though my family room is extremely bright on sunny days (when I should not be watching TV anyway). I guess with these DLP sets, I should just use whatever looks best.

Originally posted by Zack Allen
I guess with these DLP sets, I should just use whatever looks best.
Right. :)

I know this has been brought up before, but I don't remember if there were any conclusions drawn. But if you set user settings on the three modes (Cinema, Standard, Dynamic) identically and view a greyscale image (e.g. the Showtime-HD logo screen shown before presentations), you will definitely see differences. It seems to me to be changes in what is referred to on my computer monitor as "white point", which can be calibrated from 5000° K (warm) to 9300° K (cool). Cinema mode looks warmest (i.e. more red) and Dynamic the coolest (i.e. more blue).

Would this be a reasonable assumption?

Greetings,
It was posted somewhere, although I can't seem to recall exactly where, that "cinema mode warm 1" setting is as close to 6500 as you can get OOB. My ISF calibrator confirmed that setting as well.
b.

Originally posted by Your User Name:
My Samsung HLP 50" is mysteriously turning itself off from time to tiime. Does anyone else have experience with this happening? I was able to exchange my faulty HLN a while back and have had the HLP for about six months or so. This random powering off just started about two weeks ago and seems to be happening more and more frequently.

Thanks in advance.

I had this exact same problem with my HLP4663. It would power off every 30-60 min on its own for no apparent reason. I was able to 100% resolve this problem by purchasing a UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR), which was suggsted by some AVS members.

I live in a condo, and apparently the power isn't so great....probably someone plugging in a vacum or something several units over. Or whatever.

Anyways though, a UPS with AVR fixed this complete for me. Note many cheaper UPS's do NOT have AVR. Set me back about $100 for a good APC model.

Hope this helps!

-cybowolf

Hi-

I have a Sammy 5063 and I've been looking for an up-converting DVD player. I've been through the up-converting DVD thread...

I have heard that the up-converting the 5063 does internally is as good/if-not-better than most up-converting DVD players. Anyone have some real world experience?

Thanks in advance
Eph

The upconverting of an analog input from a DVD player will not look as good as what the 5063 will do with a digital 720p input (HDMI/DVI). Definitely worth it to get a player that outputs 720p digitally rather than have the Samsung digitize and upconvert the analog input from a conventional DVD player.

In my case, the Bravo D1 looks great. I'm sure there are many better upconverting players available these days, but I haven't surveyed them.

Steve-

Thanks for the feedback. I've been looking at a number of players with HDMI.( I use the DVI input for a Motorola/Comcast HD PVR) I've been told the HDMI input will yield the best PQ on the 5063.

Any thoughts?
Eph

I've been using the Panasonic s97 for months with my 5063 with great results. It's an HDMI player and works fine (passes blacker than black, etc) with either the DVI or HDMI input on the 5063 - I've tried both. S97 has tons of options which allow you tweak the picture. Many have complained about macroblocking but I rarely if ever see it on the Sammy and Panasonic has released a number of firmware updates since I bought the player which reduce MB even further.

FYI though DVI and HDMI should yield very comparable picture quality on the 5063 assuming your source doesn't have weird output options (for example if your source will only output PC RGB over DVI you may run into issues as the 5063 expects video RGB).

I had this exact same problem with my HLP4663. It would power off every 30-60 min on its own for no apparent reason. I was able to 100% resolve this problem by purchasing a UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR), which was suggsted by some AVS members.

I live in a condo, and apparently the power isn't so great....probably someone plugging in a vacum or something several units over. Or whatever.

Anyways though, a UPS with AVR fixed this complete for me. Note many cheaper UPS's do NOT have AVR. Set me back about $100 for a good APC model.

Hope this helps!

-cybowolf

I just wanted to give a public thank you to cybowolf. This suggestion has apparently saved me much time and hassle. I plugged everything into an old UPS that I had lying around my office last night and had no issues with the set turning off. I watched the basketball game and the two hour season finale of 24 with no problems. I'm realtively convinced this has solved my problem because prior to the UPS the set was turning off every 60-90 minutes or so.

So thanks again, cybowolf!

I just wanted to give a public thank you to cybowolf. This suggestion has apparently saved me much time and hassle. I plugged everything into an old UPS that I had lying around my office last night and had no issues with the set turning off. I watched the basketball game and the two hour season finale of 24 with no problems. I'm realtively convinced this has solved my problem because prior to the UPS the set was turning off every 60-90 minutes or so.

So thanks again, cybowolf!


Awesome! I'm glad to hear it worked out for ya!

A sweet TV is definately much more enjoyable when it doesn't reboot itself every 30 min :)

-cybowolf

I have mnoticed a really bad A\V sync on Flight of the Phoenix DVD. Anyone have this problem? I contacted Samsung for a tech visit.

I just got the HLP4663W DLP RP set and try as I might with a combo of Avia and my eyes, I can't get this set to look as good as I think I should. I have reduced the gamma to 0 in the service menu and tweaked my user settings in both cinema and standard. My blacks still look like a really dark grey with a very slight green hue to them, the colors are either muted and washed out or way oversaturated, and the whole picture is soft, lacking any punch. And since I can't seem to get the blacks right, my shadow detail is lackluster at best.

Is there anyone who could reccomend some service menu tweaks for this set other than the gamma one. I'm at my wits end and about to return it for a Sony Grand Wega LCD RP this weekend if I can't get this set set up better than it is so far.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

I just got the HLP4663W DLP RP set and try as I might with a combo of Avia and my eyes, I can't get this set to look as good as I think I should. I have reduced the gamma to 0 in the service menu and tweaked my user settings in both cinema and standard. My blacks still look like a really dark grey with a very slight green hue to them, the colors are either muted and washed out or way oversaturated, and the whole picture is soft, lacking any punch. And since I can't seem to get the blacks right, my shadow detail is lackluster at best.

Is there anyone who could reccomend some service menu tweaks for this set other than the gamma one. I'm at my wits end and about to return it for a Sony Grand Wega LCD RP this weekend if I can't get this set set up better than it is so far.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

I had the same problem with my HLP6163 when I first got it. After about 100 hrs. of lamp burn in it became a non-issue and everything looked great (ater also setting Gamma to 0 and setting up Cinema mode with Avia).

So just give it a couple weeks and see how it is after that.

hmmm, that will be pushing it then. I don't want to have to wait until the en of my return policy to get this thing returned if I have to. I may give it a couple more days, but after that, it may be going back since I don't want to be stuck with it if it keeps giving me the problems it has picture wise.

I just got the HLP4663W DLP RP set and try as I might with a combo of Avia and my eyes, I can't get this set to look as good as I think I should.
I have the same set. What inputs are you using, Component or DVI/HDMI, etc? With Avia, what did you end up as settings for your Color, Contrast and Brightness in the Cinema mode? You ought to be able to get these sets to go very black. In Cinema mode, I'm usually at Brightness=50, and the blacks are very black. My biggest problem is the whites are too white thru DVI/HDMI. But I don't want to steal this thread (yet).

What were you watching that looked so bad, Cable, Satellite, DVD?

DVDs look horrible on it. My settings are:

Gamma set in SM is 0
Brightness is 45-50
Contrast/picture is 85-90
color is roughly 45-50
sharpness is between 10-20, I can't see to much change with this though

I've got no solid blacks but even worse, they have a subtle green hue to them and my colors are washed out and muted. I think it's going back tomorrow for the Sony Grand Wega 42", the 42WE65 unless someone can give me some stunning revelation as far as what I can change in the service menu.

As stated above what connection are you using?

forgot to mention that. I'm using component cables. My dvd player is progressive scan but the picture seems to look better when I turn it off than when it's on.

1 other question. While none of my stuff looks very good on this set, is there any reason why my Superbit version of Spiderman 2 is one of the worst looking dvds I own when it's played on this set. It's really washed out, has what I can only describe as a granular picture in some scenes, not motion blur or artifacting, just looks grainy to the point of looking pixlated, and also has no depth. This dvd was one of the best looking films I had with my tube set I just replaced with this Samsung. Same DVD, same DVD player, different tv.

Noticed a weird problem last night that I'm hoping is related to my cable box and my HLP5063. Was watching something on the STB (a Sci. Atlanta 8300HD connected to the HLP's DVI in with an HDMI/DVI cable) and noticed some vertical video stuttering (best way to describe it). If you were looking at the screen, it felt like you were bouncing around ever so slightly. If I turned on the guide on the STB it became very noticeable.

My first thought was that this was a problem w/ the HLP. So I switched to my DVD player (a Panny S97 connected via HDMI) and didn't notice any stuttering. So I figured there must be something wrong either with the STB or with the DVI input on the HLP.

I turned off the STB, unplugged the HDMI end of the cable, reset the cable and rebooted the box after a few minutes. Everything appeared to be pretty normal the rest of the night.

This morning I started watching something that I had recorded on the 8300 a while back and also noticed some stuttering, although not as bad. I switched to live TV and it seemed fine. So I'm wondering if the STB has been acting up for a while and I didn't realize it. I would have thought the problem was the way the STB was outputting the video but maybe it was actually recorded that way.

In any event, I'm hoping the Sammy is fine, but wondering if anyone else has ever had a problem like this before w/ their Samsung? If so, what source were you feeding it and how was it connected?

I'm actually moving this Monday and am having my movers transport my Sammy so I'm ultra -paranoid. If I didn't notice this before the move and noticed it after, I would have been really upset, thinking the movers broke my light engine or something.

forgot to mention that. I'm using component cables. My dvd player is progressive scan but the picture seems to look better when I turn it off than when it's on.

I struggle with the PQ of this TV at times, sometimes this thing is amazing and then other times I am disappointed all in the same movie from DVD(component cables 480p). I am only 9 days into my purchase of my 5063 and wonder if I should return it at times.

Last night I tried various movies. Jurassic Park, James Bond, Star Wars Episode I, and The Last Samurai. While some scenes where stunning, other left something to be desired, clay faces, strange banding in scenes that should have been sunlight through windows looked somewhat like smoke. In Star Wars some of the smoke that had light shining through it had some bad pixelization. :(

I have also tested for lip sync and had some lag with the sound going to the HT, but not as bad as some other have noticed. I even had this happen when watching the SD Tivo and had to change the station and then turn back for it to be in sync.

I won't even talk about the SD performance with the DirectTv Tivo. I looks great if you view it from 20' away, but I am usually about 10' from the TV. I really want to like this TV as I too bought it as a BB open box and it works great except for these issues. I have only tried the gamma change in the SM, I have the earliest revision SM it looks like from reading these forums, I just can't remember the number right now.

Russ.

Try turning progressive scan on your DVD player off (believe it or not) - the deinterlacer in the 5063 is most likely a lot better than the one in your DVD player. Unless you get an upscaling DVD player w/ a digital output, I would let the TV do the de-interlacing. So you should be passing the DLP a 480i signal over component. If you hit the Info button on the Sammy remote while watching a DVD, it should show "720x480i@60Hz" in the last row of the box on the upper left of the screen. Also be sure to enable the "Film Mode" option in the picture settings for the input you are using.

Can't really help you much on SD, except to say that it's probably your source. SD on my set actually looks quite good - Time Warner cable in NYC. Definitely doesn't compare to HD and I don't watch it often but very very watchable.

Also, I would highly recommend setting the picture mode (for all inputs) to "Cinema". At first it seems a little dull but once you get used to it, it shows a much more accurate picture than Standard and Dynamic (definitely don't use Dynamic).

I struggle with the PQ of this TV at times, sometimes this thing is amazing and then other times I am disappointed all in the same movie from DVD(component cables 480p). I am only 9 days into my purchase of my 5063 and wonder if I should return it at times.
My HLP5063 (version 1035 of the firmware) may have looked better than yours out of the box. It is even better now that it's been calibrated.

I think there are some calibrators who can load new firmware into the HLP sets without changing the digital board. To get a great calibration you need a firmware version late enough to have CCA included. You also need someone who knows how to get the best out of it.

Here is the thread I posted about the calibration. If you are interested, Seth may be able to find someone who does calibrations in your area because he is also a calibration trainer for the Samsung DLP sets.


SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

Good luck.

I've got a brand new model with the 1035 firmware already so I'm not sure if they could update it with anything newer. The set was manufactured in april 2005. I think it's going back though. The poster above summed my irritations up nicely. Sometimes it looks great, but usually the picture is lacking and I'm not paying this much money for a tv that need to be professionally calibrated just to be turned into something I won't hate watching.

I'm glad you are happy with your set though. Who knows, maybe I just got a lemon, but I knew I was taking a chance with model due to the mostly lackluster reviews, and I lost. Looks like a Grand Wega will be in my future this weekend. I can deal with lower black levels so long as the picture has better detail and much better color than this set is giving me and from what I saw in the store yesterday, it's got both in addition to equal black level to my particular set.

I've got a brand new model with the 1035 firmware already so I'm not sure if they could update it with anything newer. The set was manufactured in april 2005.
You have the latest firmware. :)

I'm not paying this much money for a tv that need to be professionally calibrated just to be turned into something I won't hate watching.
A lot of folks see it that way.

Another big batch of people feel that all TV sets look much better if they have been calibrated correctly.

Our set looked good out of the box. Right now it's doing everything I dreamed it could do, and calibration is a big part of that.

... maybe I just got a lemon,
That's possible along with a batch of other possible causes.

but I knew I was taking a chance with model due to the mostly lackluster reviews, and I lost.
:confused:

Looks like a Grand Wega will be in my future this weekend.
There are several great models available, and you can get calibration advice from UMR. :rolleyes:

Good luck.

The poster above summed my irritations up nicely. Sometimes it looks great, but usually the picture is lacking and I'm not paying this much money for a tv that need to be professionally calibrated just to be turned into something I won't hate watching.



Thanks Jonicarter,

It's like having a bad girlfriend, she kisses you lovingly goodbye and you turn to walk away blissfully in love only to be slapped in the back of the head moments later. :) Why should I then go buy this girlfriend some shoes and dresses to make her look better. I just don't want to spend 2,3, or 400 for a calibration after I shelled out what I think is enough already.

The firmware for your set is at the bottom of the service menu. There is no way to change the firmware with out replacing the digital board on the set. That is expensive.

If you have the firmware version that ends with 1035 then you have all the significant HLP firmware changes.

HLP5063

I have FW ver 1011. What does that mean? Am I doomed? What are some of the faults with this frimware? I have to be honest I am really happy with the quality of picture that I am getting with my set. BUT and this is a big but, the biggest TV I have ever had is 27 inches. So what the hell do I know what is good.
My DVD's look awesome, HDTV looks sweet, SDTV looks alright but thats the signal.
I haven't messed with anything, and I only watch it in Cinema Mode.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again guys.

HLP5063

I have FW ver 1011. What does that mean?
The main thing it means is that if you want to use a universal remote there wouldn't be a discrete command for your HDMI input.

I think technicians may be able to load new firmware versions in the future without changing the digital board.

The other thing you "might" be missing is the CCA menu which is an improved method for calibration.


I have to be honest I am really happy with the quality of picture that I am getting with my set.
That's all you need.

I haven't messed with anything, and I only watch it in Cinema Mode.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
There is no time limit if you should want more accurate PQ in the future. Enjoy what you've got now, and worry about calibration when or if something ever bothers you.

Is it possible that my set was already calibrated before being bought. The set I bought was a display model at Best Buy. Do they calibrate their display models? It has almost 4000 hours on the lamp.

Is it possible that my set was already calibrated before being bought.
What's less likely than none? ;)

Russ.

Try turning progressive scan on your DVD player off (believe it or not) - the deinterlacer in the 5063 is most likely a lot better than the one in your DVD player. Unless you get an upscaling DVD player w/ a digital output, I would let the TV do the de-interlacing. So you should be passing the DLP a 480i signal over component. If you hit the Info button on the Sammy remote while watching a DVD, it should show "720x480i@60Hz" in the last row of the box on the upper left of the screen. Also be sure to enable the "Film Mode" option in the picture settings for the input you are using.


When you pass a 480p signal through component 1 shouldn't the TV say "720x480p" instead since this is a progressive signal?

I've been browsing forums and have read a little bit about this, but can't seem to find a solution. I recently bought a Panasonic s77, and love the player. Unfortunately, when connected to my 5063W via the HDMI port, all green on the image is overly intense. It's an annoyance on some movies, but others, like King Arthur or The Matrix, which are filmed with a green tint are completely unwatchable. These movies are displayed with a nearly 100% green scale across the entire image. In other movies, green clothing, etc, bleeds out and just looks too bright.

I was able to confirm this wasn't the DVD player by watching the output of my LG HD receiver. It's connected via the DVI input, and images from it also have the "green push" problem. I've never really paid attention in the past (haven't watched any "green" movies on cable), but it's definitely there.

Anything I run through component looks just fine. It seems to only be a problem running through digital.

Is this a service/warranty issue, or is it something I can tweak? I've tried changing the basic picture settings, but that hasn't helped. If this can be tweaked via the service menu, will that result in picture problems for images displayed via the component inputs? IE, will green through the component be washed out after the change? Also, what options should I be looking at in the service menu if that's the suggested route?

Thanks a BUNCH for any help!

When you pass a 480p signal through component 1 shouldn't the TV say "720x480p" instead since this is a progressive signal?
EricScott is recommending 480i.

I have no way to test it but I assume that the "info" would indicate "720x480p" if that's what the DVD player was outputing to the TV.

I recently bought a Panasonic s77, and love the player. Unfortunately, when connected to my 5063W via the HDMI port, all green on the image is overly intense.
I hate it when a TV does that! I've had two HLP5063 sets in the past year and neither of them had a green problem. I don't know what would cause it other than calibration related issues. If the TV is new you might look into an exchange.

Ours HLP5063 just calibrated, and if you want to read about the results plus some professional comments about color accuracy click here.

SethS Calibrated our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

I hate it when a TV does that! I've had two HLP5063 sets in the past year and neither of them had a green problem. I don't know what would cause it other than calibration related issues. If the TV is new you might look into an exchange.

It's nearly a year old, but fortunately I have an extended warranty if it turns out to be a defect. I found another thread that mentioned interference may be causing the problem. In yet another thread someone claimed that their green push cleared up when they disconnected the Component output from the their DVD player, and just ran HDMI (I currently have both hooked up). I'm not putting a lot of faith in either of these, but I won't claim to be an expert on the HDMI spec. I guess I'll try cleaning up my cable nest to see if anything improves.

I'd love to have my set professionally calibrated but I'm not very optimistic that I'll find someone in my area (So. Indiana). If anyone tears into the service menu, it'll probably be me armed with a digital camera.

Thanks for your input!

I'd love to have my set professionally calibrated but I'm not very optimistic that I'll find someone in my area (So. Indiana). If anyone tears into the service menu, it'll probably be me armed with a digital camera.

Here are two more threads you might want to read.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=542709

Very technical. :o

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5672351&&#post5672351

Your set may be too early to have CCA in the service menu.

Your set may be too early to have CCA in the service menu.

Not sure on the CCA. I bought the set very soon after it launched, so if it's something they added in halfway through production, it's likely I don't have it. I'll pop open the menu tonight and see what I see. If it were a calibration issue, do you think it would affect all sources? Or is it possible for calibration problems to just affect the digital inputs? Component, composite, S-Video, Antenna all have no problems at all.

Thanks!

Not sure on the CCA. I bought the set very soon after it launched, so if it's something they added in halfway through production, it's likely I don't have it.
I think SethS has been training techs to load new firmware in the field, and I think that's what you need to get CCA. He ask me what firmware I had and said "good" when I told him version 1035. I'm not sure, but I think he would have upgraded the firmware at that point if my set was an early one.

Not sure on the CCA. I bought the set very soon after it launched, so if it's something they added in halfway through production, it's likely I don't have it. I'll pop open the menu tonight and see what I see. If it were a calibration issue, do you think it would affect all sources? Or is it possible for calibration problems to just affect the digital inputs? Component, composite, S-Video, Antenna all have no problems at all.

Thanks!

What does CCA stand for and what is the added functionality? I think I have one of the first versions of the SM.

What does CCA stand for and what is the added functionality? I think I have one of the first versions of the SM.
It controls color. There's more to it but that's all I know. :o

Seth used CCA controls to do this.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5748224&&#post5748224

Here is a very technical thread that probably explains it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5672351&&#post5672351

It controls color. There's more to it but that's all I know. :o

Seth used CCA controls to do this.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5748224&&#post5748224

Thanks!

Thanks!
You're welcome. I added a second link to my message.

Just found this:

Can't link URLs yet, so try to piece this back together...
avforums
com
/forums/showthread.php?t=173776

Unfortunately I don't have my TV in front of me, but this made me think... I'm not 100% positive the TV has problems with HD signals out of the HD tuner, it may just be SD. The program we were watching last night was in SD, and that's when I was paying attention to greens.

If I'm understanding this, it sounds like my TV may not be interpreting the type of signal correctly, seeing HD instead of the SD out of the tuner and HD instead of upconverted SD out of my DVD player, therefore applying the wrong colorspace. I know the DVD player can do it's own colorspace conversion, and I'm sure I tried swapping between RGB and YCrCb without any improvements, but, maybe I missed something?

Just found this:

Can't link URLs yet, so try to piece this back together...
avforums
com
/forums/showthread.php?t=173776


Ok, following the link in that thread to Robert Whitehead's thread reveals this:

"For HDMI, your player will output an SD YCrCb signal, and your projector must give you the option of overriding the automatic switch to HD color space in the presence of a 720p/1080i signal and force it into 601."

I think there's a good chance this is what the problem is. I haven't seen any HDMI tuning options on my set, so it's probably incorrectly interpreting the signal. I have the player defaulting to 1080i, and have tried to switch back to 480p during playback. I'll try switching it to 480p before playback starts to see what happens.

Anyone know if there's a way to tweak signal interpretation on the HDMI input via the service menu?

Ok, I tried everything I said I was going to try:


Cleaned up cable mess
Disconnected component cable from DVD player/TV
Tried running DVD player in 480p through HDMI, instead of 1080i
Tried switching between YCrCb and RGB output from DVD player


None of the above worked. I also verified that both HD and SD TV had the same green push problems when ran through the DVI input. Additionally, I noted that the TV setup menu had a green cast to it as well. I'm not sure if that's normal or not, but I only get that when I open the menu with an image from a digital input behind it. Otherwise, it's a nice light blue. I powered my tuner on and off a few times and the color switched from blue to swamp green... this seems like a problem.

Giving up, I called Samsung. After waiting on hold for tier 2 support for about 45 minutes, they've decided to have a technician come out and replace the board. We'll see if that fixes it.

I'll report back with the results. Thanks again for the input!

octbit,

I have the s97 connected via HDMI to my 5063 and don't have any green push issues. I use YCbCr 4:4:4 for my color space option on the s97. Don't think you are having a colorspace problem b/c you are using HDMI to HDMI. Both your 5063 and the HDMI out on your s77 are expecting Video RGB signals so there shouldn't be a mismatch there. If you are using HDMI and can select the three color space options - RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 then everything is connected properly. If all of those settings look bad then there is most likely a problem w/ the display (esp. since you having comparable issues with the DVI input).

May want to try setting gamma to zero in the service menu.

octbit,

If you are using HDMI and can select the three color space options - RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 then everything is connected properly. If all of those settings look bad then there is most likely a problem w/ the display (esp. since you having comparable issues with the DVI input).

May want to try setting gamma to zero in the service menu.

I do see all three color space options when connected via HDMI. The problem seems like it's getting worse (or I'm just getting sensitive to it). Last night we were watching a show in which a lady had a green shirt on and I thought it was going to burn a hole in the screen. This was coming from HD content->LG receiver->DVI->TV.

I'd get into the service menu, but since we already have a technician coming out I figure I'll hang back just in case.

Thanks!

<snip> when connected to my 5063W via the HDMI port, all green on the image is overly intense. <snip>


The problem is that sync is set via the green signal (or something like that.) Anyway, turn off the TV, wait about 10-20 seconds, turn it back on and the colors should be correct. Basically you are just out of sync.

To not have this issue, always turn on the DVD player before turning on the TV.

To not have this issue, always turn on the DVD player before turning on the TV.

I generally turn on my receiver and DVD player before my TV, but I'll play around with this a bit tonight.

The problem still seems to be getting worse. I was getting so sick of the green last night that I switched over to component and noticed that the red appears to be out of control on that input now. I pulled out my old 480p player and hooked it up via component as well to confirm the problem wasn't just with the new s77. With the problem no longer being restricted to digital inputs, I can only assume something is failing. A technician is going to come out on Saturday and I'll post what he finds.

Thanks for the input!

I haven’t been on the forum in a while. Mostly because I new I would see new/better TVs than the one I bought (HLP5063). I got it Sep 04 and here is the history thus far.

9-21-04: reported Color wheel whining – light engine assembly replaced.

11-23-04: reported Slight whine still exist & screen smudges reported.

4-22-05: reported picture misaligned and smudges worse – Attempted Screen replacement (new screen arrived damaged), light engine assembly replaced (2nd time), misalignment problem not fixed. Screen reordered.

6-11-05: Vertical Red lines reported – Tech replaced light engine assembly again (3rd time) and replaced screen. Misalignment problem fixed. Smudges gone (although new screen has a much higher reflective surface than original L). During assembly I heard a short whining sound and questioned tech about it and he thought it was temporary. 4 days later sound persist and I have found it to come from rear of TV…most likely the color wheel again. Prior to called Samsung support for another repair I thought I would figure out what to request…

With this TVs history, is it time to request a replacement because it seems nothing they fix last for very long. I am not up to date on the new HLR models but intend to read some on them. Should I ask for an HLR (if they offer a 50” model) or request another HLP? If possible, could someone list the differences/improvements?

I just purchased the 4-year warranty extension through Repairmaster. I don’t want to have to immediately use the Repairmaster warranty as soon as the manufacturers warranty runs out. If I get a replacement, will the extended warranty transfer to the new TV?

THANKS!

I just recently figured out how to get my Panasonic Dvd player to output 480p thanks to AkaStp. Now the problem is that when I change it to 480p I can see the picture split as if changing, and then the screen turns white. I can still hear the sound but no picture just white. I have moved the cables to component 1 and 2 with the same results.

I might purchase some component cables since I am using 3 monster cable audio cables. Does anyone think this could be related to the cables, and has anyone else had this experience with thier 5063?

Prior to called Samsung support for another repair I thought I would figure out what to request…

With this TVs history, is it time to request a replacement because it seems nothing they fix last for very long. I am not up to date on the new HLR models but intend to read some on them. Should I ask for an HLR (if they offer a 50” model) or request another HLP? If possible, could someone list the differences/improvements?

I just purchased the 4-year warranty extension through Repairmaster. I don’t want to have to immediately use the Repairmaster warranty as soon as the manufacturers warranty runs out. If I get a replacement, will the extended warranty transfer to the new TV?

THANKS!

You can request a replacement but Samsung will need a letter from the repair center stating the history of the set. They may just offer you a refund rather than replacement if it is through Samsung. You can possibly get a replacement through the Repairmaster warranty and most likely the warranty will not transfer because it is based on the unit's serial number. :mad:

VA Ringer,

I had my 5063 replaced in April 05. I also got my original set in Sept. 04. Had the smudge issue and slight color wheel whine since day one with the set. I lived with it until January 05 when the replacement screens for the smudge issue became available. I scheduled service through Samsung to replace the screens and also replace the color wheel. Long story short: the replacement color wheel wasn't any better, the replaced screens had debris between the two screens and the local repair shop had my TV for two months since they don't do in-home service.

I complained via email to Samsung about how disappointed I was, and also that I was concerned that the repair shop, which is the only authorized service within 50 miles of my home, might not have much experience with DLP sets (another long story). I received a phone from Samsung within a week of my email that they had authorized an exchange, even though I never even requested an exchange in my email. The shipping company showed up within 2 weeks, dropped off my new 5063 and took my old one with them.

I was never offered an upgrade, but in hindsight I wish I would have asked if it was available. I am completely happy with my new 5063 though. Three months in and no issues to report. The high pitched color wheel noise is gone, no smudges and the greens seem to also be a little better.

Good luck.

I forgot to mention, I am having trouble getting my Repairmaster warranty transferred over to the new set that I got in the exchange. Repairmaster said they would transfer the warranty, but they need documentation faxed to them showing that Samsung authorized the exchange.

Two phone calls and three emails to Samsung later, I am still having difficulty getting Samsung to send me an email showing that they authorized the replacement. I received an email today from Samsung stating that they are sorry for the inconvenience and they are sending it to a higher level of support for review. The only proof I have is the paperwork from the shipping company, which mentions nothing about Samsung authorizing an exchange. Hopefully it will be resolved soon.

VA Ringer,

I had no troubles with my HLN until about six months after purchase it develped the color wheel whine. The Samsung- authorized repair man replaced the whole optical engine. I thought it a bit extreme when only the color wheel was having troubel, but thought what the hell a whole new engine, that's pretty cool. Thing is, I had nothing but trouble after that. The thing never worked properly after that and Samsung eventually replaced the whole thing with an HLP. This may be the boat you're in. My lesson learned was to be very careful about what repair is done on these things. Replacing the opitcal engine is supposed to be easier (so I've heard) than replacing the color wheel, but it's not the best fix.

Thanks for all the responses.

It would seem I should request a replacement tv.

Purchase price for my model (HLP5063) was $2900 via AVS power buy (more expensive in B&Ms). What model should I request?

As far as Repairmaster... They say I need orig recieptand new reciept or packing slip.

Can anyone provide a link to a thread or website dedicated to stands for DLP's? I'm trying to get one that's not black or silver, and under 20" deep (16" would be ideal) but I'm not sure where to look (the g/f said no to the ikea stand..can't recall the name though). Any help is much appreciated.


Just a positive note: I've had my HLP (4663w) for about three days now, and I have had no problems to speak of *fingers crossed*. I'm still gradually making adjustments in the user menu, but so far I like what I've seen. God Bless INHD and the best dam documentary ever: Beavers. :p

Phish,

Did you see my stand. I had posted it in the stand link too I think...

Its not black or silver and its not too deep...

Ok, I tried everything I said I was going to try:


Cleaned up cable mess
Disconnected component cable from DVD player/TV
Tried running DVD player in 480p through HDMI, instead of 1080i
Tried switching between YCrCb and RGB output from DVD player


None of the above worked. I also verified that both HD and SD TV had the same green push problems when ran through the DVI input. Additionally, I noted that the TV setup menu had a green cast to it as well. I'm not sure if that's normal or not, but I only get that when I open the menu with an image from a digital input behind it. Otherwise, it's a nice light blue. I powered my tuner on and off a few times and the color switched from blue to swamp green... this seems like a problem.

Giving up, I called Samsung. After waiting on hold for tier 2 support for about 45 minutes, they've decided to have a technician come out and replace the board. We'll see if that fixes it.

I'll report back with the results. Thanks again for the input!


No way you were on hold for 45min.

You can request a replacement but Samsung will need a letter from the repair center stating the history of the set. They may just offer you a refund rather than replacement if it is through Samsung. You can possibly get a replacement through the Repairmaster warranty and most likely the warranty will not transfer because it is based on the unit's serial number. :mad:

Samsung will rather do a replacement over refund any day of the week. :D

Thanks for all the responses.

It would seem I should request a replacement tv.

Purchase price for my model (HLP5063) was $2900 via AVS power buy (more expensive in B&Ms). What model should I request?

As far as Repairmaster... They say I need orig recieptand new reciept or packing slip.

If its Samsung you don't have a choice. It will be the HLP5067W.
that is the replacement for the HLP5063.
unless you want to pay to upgrade. :p

I forgot to mention, I am having trouble getting my Repairmaster warranty transferred over to the new set that I got in the exchange. Repairmaster said they would transfer the warranty, but they need documentation faxed to them showing that Samsung authorized the exchange.

Two phone calls and three emails to Samsung later, I am still having difficulty getting Samsung to send me an email showing that they authorized the replacement. I received an email today from Samsung stating that they are sorry for the inconvenience and they are sending it to a higher level of support for review. The only proof I have is the paperwork from the shipping company, which mentions nothing about Samsung authorizing an exchange. Hopefully it will be resolved soon.

call probally go forwarded to NSC where there is a letter that can state exactly what you are looking for. If you dont hear anything relatively soon call 800-747-5618 and have trans # ready :cool:

So throwdown the big question would be when the first Samsung DLP comes out that accepts 5.1 surround through the HDMI AND accepts 1080p through any of the inputs (not counting the tuner). -- :)

what do you have that puts out 1080p now and the TV has 2 speakers so 5.1 is useless.
still gonna need a home theater. when more 1080p info comes I will let you know.

I just got my 50" HLP from Sound Track in Denver and also have very obvious smudges on both sides of the screen. After several hours they eventually went away. I will wait a while to see if they continue to reappear and how long it takes for them to go away each time. My question is whether or not it is worth exchanging the set or is this something that will most likely be on all the units (i.e. Xzerion's case). Are most people just living with this or are there units out there that do not have this issue? I think I can live with it since it seems like you can only see it in a small percentage of scenes that are being displayed. By the way Sound Track in Denver matched the PB price!


There is a replacement screen they can switch relatively eaisly for you. Just call up samsung and schedule a service call or exchange to the retailer. Your choice so there is a fix for this.

I will have a P3 in about 8-12 months and I don't feel like buying a new tv every 8-12 months. In regards to the 5.1 the way to 100% avoid lip-synch would be to run HDMI into the tv and then back to the receiver - the current setup forces you to run separate audio-cables which makes the difference between HDMI and DVI worthless.........Samsung support has previously admitted that this is a complaint so I don't understand why this would be useless - you are selling one piece in a home-theater system not "The home-theater system" - or maybe you don't even want your own 5.1 Surround sound system customers to enjoy the Samsung experience

I thinkI may have misunderstood your first question.
The HLR model do not have any delay, if so there is a game mode that fixes this in the menu. Not too involved in the Home theater myself but the HDMI is for a direct connect with cable/sat boxes to the tv. IDK about any Home theaters that have HDMI on them.
But hey Im just tryin to help

I haven't been by in a while, but I got my 5663 about six months ago...

About once every two months I get this problem where when I turn on the TV after it's been off all day and the "lamp" light flashes repeatedly and the TV dosen't turn on. The TV the "resets" itself (I hear it de-gauss) and it goes through this six or eight times.

If I give it a "rest" for a minute or two it turns on without a problem.

The picture is always fine, and I can't isolate this problem to any specific set of circumstances...

Any ideas on what's causing the problem? I called Samsung and they throught it was a bulb problem and said they'd be sending a tech out...he never called (pretty shoddy service), but I haven't persued it yet.

Thanks in advance, you guys are great!

-GC

try unpluging it and plug it back in and if it still occurs you will need service. call back samsung and tell them the tech never called or call the tech. sometimes the service request fax does not go through.

I haven't been by in a while, but I got my 5663 about six months ago...

About once every two months I get this problem where when I turn on the TV after it's been off all day and the "lamp" light flashes repeatedly and the TV dosen't turn on. The TV the "resets" itself (I hear it de-gauss) and it goes through this six or eight times.

If I give it a "rest" for a minute or two it turns on without a problem.

-GC

I agree. Call Samsung. This happened to my 5663 and after replacing the light engine there were still problems. They finally replaced the entire set.

My cheap old progressive scan AKAI dvd player has died. I am considering the Samsung HD850. Any thoughts? Any altrnatives?
thanks

My cheap old progressive scan AKAI dvd player has died. I am considering the Samsung HD850. Any thoughts? Any altrnatives?
thanks

Check the below thread. It should help you in your decision.
Regards...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528864

Samsung has authorized a replacement. I am getting the HL-R5067. I hope it works better than my 5063. What is the advantages of this floating screen?

Are there any know issues with the R series that I need to keep an eye out for?

I was surprised I wasn't offered a new warranty. They only added 2 months for down time and 3 months for registering the tv when I originally purchased it.

Hey everyone, MY FIRST POST!!!

Anyhow, i got a Sammy 46" DLP (love it) Model HLP 4663w, i got the Digital Video Essentials to help with the setup, however, when i use the filter to adjust the color, the Blue and Red look perfect, but the green is terrible, not even close to the example the DVE game me. The narrator says that i should change the color decoder or something like that in the service menu if the red or green is not right. Does anyone know how to fix that? I know how to get into the service menu, but i dont know where to look or what to adjust to fix the green level or the color decoder.

Is there a site i can go to that will give me an explaination of each menu option in the Service Menu screen?

Please Help me!!!!

Thanks in advance


Isaac Alcala

Samsung has authorized a replacement. I am getting the HL-R5067. I hope it works better than my 5063. What is the advantages of this floating screen?

Are there any know issues with the R series that I need to keep an eye out for?

I was surprised I wasn't offered a new warranty. They only added 2 months for down time and 3 months for registering the tv when I originally purchased it.

sent message.

Samsung only carries over your remainder of the warranty left on an exchange unless you pay to upgrade. If your warranty is up or less than 90 days you get a 90 warranty on the exchange.

HELP! I just got my HL-P5085W todaya nd my pictur looks like crap. It's really soft and muddled. I can't even get my cable box to switch to 720P. Is that because I'm using S video? How much of a difference would component cables make? Also, professional calibration, is it worth it?

Welcome to the forum, come in and relax. Component cables would make a significant difference from S-video. I am not sure that S-video is capable of handling 720p incoming or outgoing signals.
As far as professional calibration goes, wait until you get about 100 hours on the lamp. It will also make a difference. You can prpbaly get a fairly good picture using Avia.
Enjoy!

Avia component cables? Ok I'll look for those a little later. thanks for the info and the welcome. :)

HELP! I just got my HL-P5085W todaya nd my pictur looks like crap. It's really soft and muddled. I can't even get my cable box to switch to 720P. Is that because I'm using S video? How much of a difference would component cables make? Also, professional calibration, is it worth it?
You will get the best results with DVI or HDMI which are digital inputs. Using component will cause the digital input to be converted to analog before it's sent to your TV.

After the analog signal is received by the TV it has to be converted back to digital. I wouldn't invest in a calibration unless I was using the digital inputs.

S-Video and composite inputs shouldn't be used unless you have no other choices.

Here are two HLP calibration threads.

SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

Just got my Samsung DLP calibrated! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5715953#post5715953)

Avia component cables? Ok I'll look for those a little later. thanks for the info and the welcome. :)


:eek: Actually, AVIA is a DVD based tv calibration tool for home use. You would use it in your system to adjust the color balance, brightness, contrast, etc. It is not as in depth as a professional calibration but for about $30 and 30 minutes you will see an improved picture.

For component cables you can pick up a set pretty much anywhere now days. Here is a link to some reasonably priced cables. ;)

http://www.impactacoustics.com/product_list.asp?cat%5Fid=601

I've been trying to decide the best way to set up the audio on my HLP4663W.
Let me start by saying I don't have optical inputs on my reciever, so that's not an option.

I wanted to have the option of either using the t/v's internal speakers OR using my reciever. I sent the STB's RCA outs to the t/v, then the t/v's outs to the reciever. But I'm not getting sound from my reciever. Actually I did get it from one t/v station but it was from the "air 1" input and it was delayed.

Any suggestions? Is it possible the t/v's outs are goofed?

Ok I got my DVI cables and everything is looking much better now, though I think it'd look better if I got a better DVI Cable. I ended up with a Phillips PXT1000. I assume brand makes a difference but that was the only kind they had. When I was there I was pretty much assaulted by a salesman who was full of conspiracy theories. He was trying to convince me that Progressive Scan DVD players and DVI cables were a marketing myth. He didn't believe that high definition DVDs would ever see the light of day. He tried telling me that if I bumped into my TV I would lose half the picture because it's so sensiitive and went on about the superiority of LCD and Plasma. On and on and on for abouit thirty minutes. Just terrible.

I also Pulled the trigger on a Sammy HLP5663W usually buy from ************** because I live close to their store in Illinois. When they couldn't meet the price that VANNS had i got the tv shipped no tax for 2300 including a 150 dollar harmony remote that works just ok.
TV had some problems that those other horror story threads had. My color wheel was outputting a high pitch pierce that probably woudln't be detected or noticed by most people. A few times i got almost entire green flashes on the screen and would have to change inputs. A few times the text should be "white" when it displays the input only it turned magenta (text only). Finally, one time I had to turn the tv of and on when i had no picture. These were signs for problems down the road. I called Samsung and they had a representative out to my place in under one week. I told him i wanted the second gen light engine...he showed up with a new 2nd gen AIR BEARING light engine assembly. IN 2005 SAMMY IS NOT MESSING AROUND WITH just replacing a bulb, or just replacing a balyst, or just replacing a color wheel. They replace the whole LE and you basically get a new TV.
OTHER than that mishap everying this $$$ i wouldn't trade it for an HLR series for 1000 more what do you get wowee 2 firewire ports NEVER use them unless you have a good camcorder. THEY got rid of the DVI now you have two HDMI. Could not tell the difference between the 2000:1 vs. my 1500:1 the differences are so minor at best. Go out and buy only a NEW hlp series from an authorized reseller of samsung. MAKE SURE YOUR ONLINE SITES ARE AUTHORIZED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't stress that more otherwise you are SOL if something goes wrong.

Well, I hope you have success, but I would caution others about replacing the entire optical engine when a smaller repair will take care of the problem. I had an HLN and had the color wheel problem. The HLN worked fine oherwise until the Samsung-authorized repairman replaced the entire optical engine just to repair the color wheel. I ahd nothing but problems from that moment forward. And now I post in this thread, becuase ultimately Samsung had to replace the whole set with a new HLP. I've been told in other threads that the geometry of these things is very delicate and replacing the optical engine isn't so simple. So don't just jump at the chance to have the guts replaced if they offer it. Do some research around here before pulling the trigger.

Samsung has authorized a replacement. I am getting the HL-R5067. I hope it works better than my 5063. What is the advantages of this floating screen?

Are there any know issues with the R series that I need to keep an eye out for?

I was surprised I wasn't offered a new warranty. They only added 2 months for down time and 3 months for registering the tv when I originally purchased it.


Did you have to pay to upgrade to the 5067? How much?

I've been trying to decide the best way to set up the audio on my HLP4663W.
Let me start by saying I don't have optical inputs on my reciever, so that's not an option.

I wanted to have the option of either using the t/v's internal speakers OR using my reciever. I sent the STB's RCA outs to the t/v, then the t/v's outs to the reciever. But I'm not getting sound from my reciever. Actually I did get it from one t/v station but it was from the "air 1" input and it was delayed.

Any suggestions? Is it possible the t/v's outs are goofed?
I also have the 4663W DLP, its great, i suggest getting a new receiver with optical, it sounds so much better, plus it will compliment the TV. By the way, did you get your DLP calibrated?

Did you have to pay to upgrade to the 5067? How much?

No I did not have to pay. You only have to pay if you want a new warranty with the tv. It was a free replacement because the techs could not get my HLP working properly.

I forgot to mention, I am having trouble getting my Repairmaster warranty transferred over to the new set that I got in the exchange. Repairmaster said they would transfer the warranty, but they need documentation faxed to them showing that Samsung authorized the exchange.

Two phone calls and three emails to Samsung later, I am still having difficulty getting Samsung to send me an email showing that they authorized the replacement. I received an email today from Samsung stating that they are sorry for the inconvenience and they are sending it to a higher level of support for review. The only proof I have is the paperwork from the shipping company, which mentions nothing about Samsung authorizing an exchange. Hopefully it will be resolved soon.

I was able to transfer my Repairmaster warranty from my old HLM to the HLP replacement that Samsung sent me after providing them three faxes and 25 pages of documentation. It took several phone calls back and forth with Warrantech to determine what documentation was necessary and to supply all the documentation that was required but finally the warranty was transferred.

Good luck!

sent message.

Samsung only carries over your remainder of the warranty left on an exchange unless you pay to upgrade. If your warranty is up or less than 90 days you get a 90 warranty on the exchange.

I had a Samsung HLM replaced with a HLP by Samsung after the warranty was expired (the problem was reported during the HLM warranty period) and the new set came with a new one year (plus 3 months for registering on line) warranty. I had service on the HLP set 6 months after it was received and Samsung honored the warranty and replaced the light engine. The set is now working great.

I was able to transfer my Repairmaster warranty from my old HLM to the HLP replacement that Samsung sent me after providing them three faxes and 25 pages of documentation. It took several phone calls back and forth with Warrantech to determine what documentation was necessary and to supply all the documentation that was required but finally the warranty was transferred.

Good luck!

Thanks OrangeKid, but my problem is with Samsung. Warrentech/Repairmaster OK'd the warranty transfer but they need documentation that Samsung authorized the exchange. 2 phone calls and 3 emails to Samsung and I'm still trying to get them to send me a simple email saying that they authorized the exchange due to problems I was having with my original set. Sill waiting for my reply to 2nd level Samsung support. Very disappointing considering that the exchange went flawlessly.

I had a Samsung HLM replaced with a HLP by Samsung after the warranty was expired (the problem was reported during the HLM warranty period) and the new set came with a new one year (plus 3 months for registering on line) warranty. I had service on the HLP set 6 months after it was received and Samsung honored the warranty and replaced the light engine. The set is now working great.

My HLP was replaced by another HLP and Samsung game me a new factory warranty with the replacement set.

Thanks OrangeKid, but my problem is with Samsung. Warrentech/Repairmaster OK'd the warranty transfer but they need documentation that Samsung authorized the exchange. 2 phone calls and 3 emails to Samsung and I'm still trying to get them to send me a simple email saying that they authorized the exchange due to problems I was having with my original set. Sill waiting for my reply to 2nd level Samsung support. Very disappointing considering that the exchange went flawlessly.

I did not bother to get any additional documentation from Samsung. I just sent the receipts from the shipping company showing that I received a new set and returned the original set. That worked for me.

Thanks OrangeKid, but my problem is with Samsung. Warrentech/Repairmaster OK'd the warranty transfer but they need documentation that Samsung authorized the exchange. 2 phone calls and 3 emails to Samsung and I'm still trying to get them to send me a simple email saying that they authorized the exchange due to problems I was having with my original set. Sill waiting for my reply to 2nd level Samsung support. Very disappointing considering that the exchange went flawlessly.
If you need a letter call 800-747-5618 and you will get it faxed or emailed to you the same day. You just need to know who to deal with. Don't get upset when they can take care of you on one call. Just need to get to the right people. Good Luck, I know this will work.

If you need a letter call 800-747-5618 and you will get it faxed or emailed to you the same day. You just need to know who to deal with. Don't get upset when they can take care of you on one call. Just need to get to the right people. Good Luck, I know this will work.

Thanks for the number, I'll give that one a try.

if i make changes w/n my service menu, will it void my warranty?

if i make changes w/n my service menu, will it void my warranty?

If you change something that that messes up your TV and you ask them for service because of it, it should void your warranty. Be responsible for your own actions.

If you change something that improves your picture and you later have a warranty issue that is not related to what you changed, there is no reason at all for it to be a problem. They would probably not notice you had been in there unless you tell them.

Thanks for the info steve.

I just wanted to make sure before I made any tweaks-- to the picture quality --which I now plan on doing.

I've been scrolling thru this thread trying to find how to access the sm and tweak suggestions w/ the sm, but can't find it. Does anyone happen to know what page it's on?

thanks in advance

I've been scrolling thru this thread trying to find how to access the sm and tweak suggestions w/ the sm, but can't find it. Does anyone happen to know what page it's on?

How about this for HLN and HLP sets:

Originally posted by millerwill
htwaits: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)
Can one idiot protect other idiots? ;)

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

For our calibration by SethS see this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133

beautiful. thanks.

I'll try to dig in tonight, unless you think I should give the set more time to settle in (I've had it about 2-weeks, approx. 75 hours worth).

I'll try to dig in tonight, unless you think I should give the set more time to settle in (I've had it about 2-weeks, approx. 75 hours worth).
I would check this thread first and pay attention to messages from collinp. :)

DLP's Dark Secret Problem ? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543222&page=1&pp=30)

I would check this thread first and pay attention to messages from collinp. :)

DLP's Dark Secret Problem ? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543222&page=1&pp=30)
Whhew, that is some tedious stuff! I've read his first post about 5 times through and I'm still having trouble comprehending. I'll just stick to a gamma change for now. :)

thanks again for the help

Whhew, that is some tedious stuff! I've read his first post about 5 times through and I'm still having trouble comprehending. I'll just stick to a gamma change for now. :)
I can't follow it either. :o

Hi - very new and I've looked for similar posts but I see none, so here goes:

I got an 'open box' HLP5063W this last weekend at Circuit City - it looked very nice in the store and I did my research and this set got high marks so I went for it.

I was a little worried that I might run into troubles, so I got the Extended warranty just in case, so hopefully this will all work out.

When they delivered the set I noticed some things that concerned me and I'd like a sanity check to see if a service call will fix this, or if I have a dud.

In no particular order:

1. Progressive Scan DVD is connected via component cables into input one or two - screen doesn't look very good at all - kind of blurry and 'ghosted'- i.e, a fencerow will have a shadowy dual image of itself slightly to the side of the 'full' fence image. This is very apparent on the CC letters- the white is streaked with black and has the ghosting.

2. PS2 connected to TV via component cables- Gran Turismo 4 is supposed to be able to display at 1080i, but the cars have alot of 'jaggies' and the movies 'glitter' random sort of white pixels you expect to see in other games, but on a GT4 replay, it is nearly movie quality on a standard set, on this one its pretty scary...

3. The most serious issue - the screen has a section (say 18 inches from the right side) on the top edge that 'dips' down- almost as if the screen is sort of smeared or out of whack... if Ihad a way to post a pic I would - but trust me, its very odd- like a messed up PC monitor geometry. The dip is about 6 inches long and about a half inch into the screen. When text is viewed onscreen in that general area (and about 8 inches below it) it appears blurry and out of focus. This seems almost like a physical trauma thing, so I'm worried.

4. Similar to above - when in 4:3 mode, the side edges dip inward, (think hour-glass) about 5/8s of an inch diffence on the black border when measured at the top vs dead center.

5. AlsoI notice that even when the TV is off, the red letters TEMP/STANDBY display on the central button - I assume this is bad =(

Should I send this set back? I didn't notice any of this in the store - the set looked fine and clear compared to others there and even though I know I can send it back its a little depressing heh.

Sad and confused...

Should I send this set back?
The hour glass look using a 4x3 image is found in all rear projection TV sets that I've seen. It's caused by the short distance from the image creation stage to the screen.

To get a better idea about your picture quality check your DVD player to see if it is set up to work with a 16x9 screen and not a 4x3 screen.

The second thing that would help is for you to provide better details.

What DVD player do you have?

Have you tried turning progressive mode off?

Which DVDs are you using to test it? Try one of newer Widescreen Anamorphic films.

What cables are you using?

If you are watching a wide screen DVD over component then the TV should be set to Wide mode.

You should also indicate which Picture settings you are using.

The best PQ for DVDs comes from using an upscaling DVD player outputting 720p to DVI or HDMI. With that setup the TV should be set to Expand mode. There are some good ones on the market if you are interested.

There might be something wrong with your TV, but it's possible that it's not setup to get the best PQ. The quality of the input signal is very important.

I'll get the details together an reply tonite when I get back from work!

I will add that the red Temp/Standby light being on when the set is off is completely normal. So don't worry about that one.

... A technician is going to come out on Saturday and I'll post what he finds.

Pheewww! What an ordeal. After several weeks, I can finally report the TV is fixed. The first round they replaced the color wheel, which didn't help anything. No lost effort, though, because according to the technician the old ones were more noisy and prone to fail than the new ones. I *think* the newer ones use bearings instead of a bushing, but don't quote me on that.

The problem ended up being the digital board. They said one of the EEPROMs was bugged and that several of the settings were way off the map. IE, the max was supposed to be 255, but they were at 7000?! In any case, swapping the board out fixed it, and the picture looks great again.

I've read a lot of you are having "smudge" problems and are not getting results from Samsung. Although it took awhile. The local service rep for Glendale CA was so aplogetic about delays in answering voice mail. They knew what the problem was from the phone description. They solved the problem. It is a know problem with certain models and serial numbers. The screens were made in 2 parts and not sealed and vapor has gotten between them. They are prepared to replace the screen. It's fast and easy for them to do it. The only problem I faced is that there are so many that need replacement that the screens were back ordered. But they happily did the work and even did color adjustment and resolution adjustments while they were there.

rpyle:

Sounds as if I'm a neighbor; I live over in Los Feliz. I was wondering if you could PM me the name/no. of the local service rep you mentioned. I haven't had any problems to speak of in the year I've had my 5063 <knock on wood>, but you never know. Thanks.

Bruce

so whats a good dvd player to get that you guys have had experiance with? currently the el cheapo one i'm borrowing from a friend looks pretty crappy. its a sony progressive scan dvd/vcr combo on components. i have a philips divx player, but won't be to get my hands back on it (lent it to family) for another week or so. i've got the hlp 4663w. hows oppo?

i've had the tv for about 3 monthes now, but because of moving and then travelling, am just now getting around to playing with it (though been readin this thread for a while). still haven't done any tweaks or dve/avia.

thanks
--soheil

hows oppo?
A lot of people like the Oppo using HDMI/DVI connections.

There is a Panasonic in the same price range that is popular too.

Check here.

DVD Players (Standard Def) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=18)

so whats a good dvd player to get that you guys have had experiance with? currently the el cheapo one i'm borrowing from a friend looks pretty crappy. its a sony progressive scan dvd/vcr combo on components. i have a philips divx player, but won't be to get my hands back on it (lent it to family) for another week or so. i've got the hlp 4663w. hows oppo?

i've had the tv for about 3 monthes now, but because of moving and then travelling, am just now getting around to playing with it (though been readin this thread for a while). still haven't done any tweaks or dve/avia.

thanks
--soheil

I've got nothing but rave reviews from people who've bought the OPPO. This player decodes DIVX, AVI, and XVID files just burned as a Data DVD, and does it quite well, which is a feature demanded by more and more people nowadays from a DVD Player.

but has anyone here had success with the hlp and oppo?

tia
--soheil

I have the HLP connected to a Panasonic S97 and love it. Some people have complained about macroblocking but I rarely if ever see it.

I've been enjoying my Sony DVP-NS975.

so is there anyway to get 1024x768 res with a pc connection? it only lets me do 800x600.

thanks
--soheil

3. The most serious issue - the screen has a section (say 18 inches from the right side) on the top edge that 'dips' down- almost as if the screen is sort of smeared or out of whack... if Ihad a way to post a pic I would - but trust me, its very odd- like a messed up PC monitor geometry. The dip is about 6 inches long and about a half inch into the screen. When text is viewed onscreen in that general area (and about 8 inches below it) it appears blurry and out of focus. This seems almost like a physical trauma thing, so I'm worried.

4. Similar to above - when in 4:3 mode, the side edges dip inward, (think hour-glass) about 5/8s of an inch diffence on the black border when measured at the top vs dead center.

Sad and confused...

Ok after getting a DVI cable and also an HDMI dvd player, the TV looked pretty good- but the screen was definitely distorted. I said 'was' because, after 3 attempts to come get someone to service it under my extended Circuit City warranty (Hagerstown Md FYI) I was told 'Oops, no one can service this TV in your area, pick another and we'll exchange it'. Pretty good deal I'd say. Here is the question I have now, given this situation.

1. Cable cards - are they true HDTV quality? How does the signal come in? Is there a DVI connection on the end of it or something? The drawings I see look vague.

The newer Samsungs (R5067W) have only and HDMI port labeled HDMI/DVI.... I have a cable box that is DVI, and a DVD player that is HDMI... now I know CC carries a converter cable (DVI to HDMI) but I only have one port there... I need to have two things plugged in (Cable box and DVD) and the 5063 had both style of ports. I'm hoping my cable company has a cable card (if picture quality isn't affected). If not, I'll take suggestions. I really liked the Samsung's picture - so I'd like to stay with DLP.


Pretty new to this so I'm curious how everyone else is hooked up in this scenario. Not too many TVs I'm seeing have both DVI and HDMI

Pretty new to this so I'm curious how everyone else is hooked up in this scenario. Not too many TVs I'm seeing have both DVI and HDMI
You can use a set with two HDMI ports. HDMI is backward compatible with DVI. There are also HDMI switches with two or more input HDMI ports and one output. You shouldn't pay more than $30 to $35 for HDMI or HDMI/DVI cables.

The HLRxx68, "78", and "88" 1080p sets have two HDMI ports.

OK after looking around I see that Circuit City doesn't have the XXX8 series, they have the XXX7s... I know they only have 1 HDMI port...

First - has anyone had BAD experiences with the HLRXxx67 series? Or are they pretty much on par with the other Samsungs (I was please with my original set so if it can match or exceed that I'm happy)

Here's what I'm thinking -

HLR5067W
DVI - to - HDMI cable (for cable box)
HDMI switch (Cable box and DVD plugged into that)

with that, will there be any degredation in the image (thinking of the switch or the conversion cable here - not sure of the limitations with that stuff).

Thanks again everyone for the help - this is a slightly painful process, but it should all go well =)

It has been a year since I took ownership of my 5063 and bragged about the performance - my July 2004 build was not exhibiting any of the problems that earlier builds were plagued with. My freedom of problems continued - until now although the problem is very minor, one gets concerned that it could be a warning of something else about to go bad. I went back a few pages and did a general search but I can't find anyone reporting their (don't laugh) "off melody" quiting. The "on melody" is fine. The "off melody" stopped a week or so ago. Anyone with a similar occurrence? Any ideas? Should I be concerned or just ignore it?

I believe there was conversation about the "off melody" quitting. I didn't take the time to go back through all of this, but I believe someone said this might have been a setting in the service (?) menu. I did have the "off melody" stop working on my first 5663. I do not know whether this was indicative of the subsequent problems I had with the set (it would continually go through the startup sequence and be unable to turn on the video, resulting in the "blinking smiley" of the lights on the front panel), but I did have to have that set replaced.

It has been a year since I took ownership of my 5063 and bragged about the performance - my July 2004 build was not exhibiting any of the problems that earlier builds were plagued with. My freedom of problems continued - until now although the problem is very minor, one gets concerned that it could be a warning of something else about to go bad. I went back a few pages and did a general search but I can't find anyone reporting their (don't laugh) "off melody" quiting. The "on melody" is fine. The "off melody" stopped a week or so ago. Anyone with a similar occurrence? Any ideas? Should I be concerned or just ignore it?

I believe the off melody working is related to turning on/off either DNIe, noise reduction or movie mode in some menus. I do not recall what the specific menu setting is. On my HLP 5063 I have DNIe and noise reduction off and my off melody does not work. I do not worry about it. It has not worked for many months. It may also be related to the version of the firmware you have. I have version 1033.

On my current set, I have DNIe and noise reduction off, and my "off melody" still works.

I also have a 5063. If your "off melody" is not working check the volume setting on the TV. If it is set to zero the the off melody will not work.

I also have a 5063. If your "off melody" is not working check the volume setting on the TV. If it is set to zero the the off melody will not work.

Thank you all! The volume setting did the trick. I never thought of that since I use an external A/V receiver for the audio. I also assumed that since I heard the "on melody" that the volume was set appropriately. Not so. I bumped it up a bit and the "off melody" is heard again. :)

I have the HL-P5067W (since April) and just this weekend starting to notice something unsettling. I was watching a DVD and I started to see these bright green pixels on the screen, usually appearing in areas where there is fast movement. Almost like a reflection or shimmer on on-screen objects. I thought it might have been a problem with the DVD or DVD player so I switched over to DirecTV and it was still there. I flipped through a few channels, and it was showing up wherever I went.

I turned off the set and unplugged it for a few minutes, and when I turned it back on, the problem seemed to be fixed. However, later the same day it started to happen again. I don't receive any HD programming through DirecTV and I did notice that the problem worsened if I changed the picture size to wide, panoramic or any setting other than 4:3. Sometimes the green pixels weren't there at all in 4:3 and then appeared upon me changing the picture size.

Thanks for the thread, and thanks in advance for any help...

Edit:

Looking around some more I found this earlier post which sounds like the same issue I'm having...

I saw mention in an earlier post referring to a "green issue".
I have the 50" HLP (<week old) and often see green highlights in standard analog cable and Direct TV programs.
This is not an apparent overall green cast, just in the highlights.
Not there when watching DVDs through the PC input.
I don't have a component or DVI source to try yet.
Anyone heard of this?

Thanks.

I posted this on the owner thread and never got a response, so I thought i'd try it here.

I lived in the UK for the past 3 years, and recently moved back to Southern California.

One of the things I picked up along the way was a PAL Playstation 2.

I've got the correct power converters to get it up and running here, but there's obviously some issue with the picture, as it looks black and white, and has alot of "snow", making it unplayable.

I have an HLR4667W, and am trying to connect it through standard RCA cables.

If anyone has any insight on the ability of the set to recieve a PAL siganl that would be great, i have no problem buying either an SVIDEO or COMPONENT output for my PS2, but don't want to waste the money if it isn't likely to work.

Thanks in advance.

If anyone has any insight on the ability of the set to recieve a PAL I don't know of any TV sets that are built for the US that will display PAL source material. There may be some, but I haven't run into them. That may be why you haven't gotten a response.

It's interesting that most DLP front projectors sold in the US seem to have the ability to display a PAL signal, while the DLP rear projectors seem not to have that capability. I don't use Playstation, but my DVD player has the ability to convert a PAL to NTSC signal. Do the Playstations have this conversion ability built into some menu, hidden or not?

Wes

It's interesting that most DLP front projectors sold in the US seem to have the ability to display a PAL signal, while the DLP rear projectors seem not to have that capability. I don't use Playstation, but my DVD player has the ability to convert a PAL to NTSC signal. Do the Playstations have this conversion ability built into some menu, hidden or not?

Wes

Not that I've been able to find.

After doing some searching, and they appear to sell some PAL to NTSC converters, I think i'll pick one up and see how it works.

Hi all,

I posted this on another hlp thread, but I figure this thread is more appropriate.

I'll just copy and paste for you guys:

I'm new to this forum, and from what I've seen, a TON of people seem to know their stuff. Well, I recently purchased the HL-P5685W, and I absolutely love it. There are 3 issues that I have with it:

1 - Lip synch problem w/ CERTAIN program material. Some shows in Discovery HD (and other HD and SD broadcasts) have a synch problem, but not all (???strange???). Anyone have suggestions to solve this?

2 - I'm unsure if this is due to my TV or the cable box. I'm using digital cable with Time Warner Cable, so I have a digital cable box hooked up. When I'm switching channels (b/w all combinations of channels, HD to HD, HD to SD, SD to SD), I get this screen flicker w/ some scrambling, then I see the broadcast normally. Is this a product of the TV detecting different types of signals or the cable box or something else altogether? Is this a normal occurrence (do any of you guys experience this too?).

3 - CENTER CHANNEL!!! I'm moving to a new apartment and won't have a place to place my center channel. My current center is on a shelf that I mounted on the wall behind/above the TV, but I had to drill into the wall. I don't want to do any drilling at my new place, so I'm in a bit of a bind as to where to place the center.

Since all you guys have the same set, you probably know what I'm talking about: the pedesal makes it difficult to put shelving or a mount under the TV and the top of the tv is too thin to place anything on it. Also, I don't want to drop $499 on the self system that samsung designed for their pedestal DLPs.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

-J

I don't have the 85 series, but I have experienced some lip sync issues with my setup too (includes a 5663). I assume you have a home theater setup since you talk about a center channel speaker. With a cable box, receiver, and TV all involved, it's sometimes difficult to isolate where the lip sync issues originate. In my case, the cable guys took some of the blame, but I think the TV was partly the issue too. Many receivers have delay settings that allow you to delay the audio for various fractions of a second to address this problem. That's what I ended up doing. So you might check your receiver to see if you can do that.

If you still want to troubleshoot, bypass the receiver altogether and plug audio and video directly into the TV and see if it still happens. Unfortunately, you probably don't have a digital audio connection on the TV. I didn't, and that's where I suspected the part of the sync problem lay. With stereo audio, I couldn't reproduce the sync issue.

1 - Lip synch problem w/ CERTAIN program material. Some shows in Discovery HD (and other HD and SD broadcasts) have a synch problem, but not all (???strange???). Anyone have suggestions to solve this?

According to Samsung, the DLP units all will have some audio/video sync issues when using audio circuitry separately from the integrated audio in the set. The sets have an delay in the service menu that can be adjusted, but most customers will purchase a processor with an adjustable delay to adress this issue.

2 - I'm unsure if this is due to my TV or the cable box. I'm using digital cable with Time Warner Cable, so I have a digital cable box hooked up. When I'm switching channels (b/w all combinations of channels, HD to HD, HD to SD, SD to SD), I get this screen flicker w/ some scrambling, then I see the broadcast normally. Is this a product of the TV detecting different types of signals or the cable box or something else altogether? Is this a normal occurrence (do any of you guys experience this too?).

Most of this is probably attributed to your cable box processing the signal.

3 - CENTER CHANNEL!!! I'm moving to a new apartment and won't have a place to place my center channel. My current center is on a shelf that I mounted on the wall behind/above the TV, but I had to drill into the wall. I don't want to do any drilling at my new place, so I'm in a bit of a bind as to where to place the center.

I am assuming that your center channel is a good size therefore you are hesitant about placing it on the set. There have been several threads on this issue. One solution is the one that you used previously. Unfortunately, there is no standard answer to this dilemma. Custom or build your self a stand to house the center channel underneath the TV. There have been some modified center channel support shelf for on the unit made by Sanus?, if I remember correctly?


-J :(

^
I have the same issue with the center channel on th Samsung HL-R5688W. I plan to put this in front of a large window, so there is no where to mount the center speaker.

Can I tap into the built-in speakers for use as a center? I'm able to do this on my older Sony rear projection.

This post was probably suited for 3 BL problem, but it seems that site has died.

I have an HLN4365W1X for about 15 months. Yesterday it just died. when I called the Sammy service, they asked me for hard reset for ~ 45 seconds. Now I have 3 solid lights. Green, Green, red. The fan seems to be the only thing running.

I scheduled a Sammy approved technician to come in tomorrow. Any help on what to expect?

Yes. The table does not have the symptom to meet my TV's light displays. It seemd that if I had the bottom 2 blinking lights, it would be a light problem.

I was told to expect 2000 hrs on my bulb. No way I'm even close to 500 hrs. Are my expectations too hi?

Hello!

New to the forums here, and I just bought a HLP4663W and I'm loving it. One thing though was that it was a demo unit at Futureshop (same company as best buy). The colors seem a bit off to me. For instance, the whites are REALLY bright. Anyways, since I'm really not an expert at this, I tried fixing it using the menu, but the result was worse overall. Anyone got any tips on how to "calibrate" a TV set? I know there are DVDs that help with that, but I don't know 1) How well they really work 2) Which ones are worth buying 3) How much they retail for. I'm not up for spending 100$ on this.

Any tips? Thanks in advance!

ManiacChart wrote that he " ... just bought a HLP4663W [which] was a demo unit at Futureshop and that the colors seem a bit off to me. For instance, the whites are REALLY bright...."

Are you watching HD broadcasts with the new TV? In HD, I noticed that the whites are very bright but I thought that was attributable to the fact the contrast ratio on these sets is 1500 to one which is I believe higher than regular CRT sets, and I noticed that some of the LCD sets advertise a ratio of 500:1 or 1000:1.

You have to try some different HD broadcasts because on some, the colors do seem off while on others the colors are fantastic. For example, this evening's HD broadcast of the Mets/Marlins game on INHD seemed to have very natural colors, while other games, e.g., the NLCS broadcasts from St Louis last year, seemed to me have a slight red/purple hue and did not look as bright.

I have read that you can have these sets professionally calibrated and also that calibration discs are available, but I have not tried any of them. I have just tried different programs and made slight adjustments to make them look good to me.

DVD's seem darker than HD broadcasts, even when I switch them from cinema mode to standard mode.

As to the price, a 4663 is an older model that was being produced in 2004, and should be discounted. Mine cost $2450 in Sept. of 2004 at CC with two years no interest, so it should be less than that by this time (Things do change - I guess a 1966 Philco was not considered obsolete in 1967)

Enjoy your new set but don't overdue it. As once was pointed out on Monty Python, you know it's bad for your eyes....

I haven't really tried any HD broadcasts. I only have normal cable for now. I have yet to try hooking up my DVD to the set (so much to do! So little time!). I have hooked up my GC and a PS2 using component cables and I had similiar issues.

As for the price, I payed 1699$CAN with the Tv stand for this demo unit.

I did give calibrating it myself another shot, this time with better results, but I guess it could still improve.

Anyways, maybe the contrast ration really explains it. Thanks for the info!

Oops. Double post. Sorry.

OK, 3 color wheels and 3 digital boards later, Tweeter has offered to replace my HLP 6163W with a HLR 6178W or any other model. I can't fit the 67" set, any suggestions?

Well, I have now the European version of the "captain kirk" HLP-5085, the SP50L7HX.
Nice picture but the black level is really bad. I wonder how "black" the black's on this DLP should be? For example, would the black widescreen bar of a 2.35:1 movie be as black as the black front of the TV?

I have just seen Fight Club on D-VHS (component) and the black level is really poor IMO. Should this set be really close to a good CRT in blacks?

Interestingly, my HLP6163 has developed the "HAL" mentality (Space Odyssey 2001), it will turn off completely indiscriminately. This has happened several times throughout the day. Perhaps it is a ghost in the machine? Anyways, waiting for Samsung to come and pick it up!

Interestingly, my HLP6163 has developed the "HAL" mentality (Space Odyssey 2001), it will turn off completely indiscriminately. This has happened several times throughout the day. Perhaps it is a ghost in the machine? Anyways, waiting for Samsung to come and pick it up!
Is it overheating?

I have a HLP6163 that was manufactured in August 2004. It has the older v1024 firmware. Now I just got a DircTivo HD10-250, so I wanted the HDMI discrete. Samsung is coming tmorow to fix it under warranty.

Is the Power discrete codes also fixed. with the latest firmware?

Here's hoping my PQ doesn't get screwed up.

Is it overheating?

Not sure. I just turns off completely! No cool down or anything. When I turn it off with the remote or manually, it goes into the cool down cycle. My wife is upset and says no more Samsungs.
I guess I get to start looking all over again. ;)

so i made the mistake of not buying the stand made by samsung for my hlp4663w, and now i need a stand. do the new stands for other tv's fit the hlp? or am i SOL? anybody found any good 3rd party stands?

cheers
--soheil

I have a HLP6163 that was manufactured in August 2004. It has the older v1024 firmware. Now I just got a DircTivo HD10-250, so I wanted the HDMI discrete. Samsung is coming tmorow to fix it under warranty.

Is the Power discrete codes also fixed. with the latest firmware?

Here's hoping my PQ doesn't get screwed up.

Service is completed. I now have a v1039 digi board. The Power On discrete works as does the HDMi. No issues with PQ...seems about the same as before.

Dean

Fedreams, I had that problem and it was an older model lamp/ballast going bad. Older lamp assemblies apparently had bits of metal start to flake off the dish of the bulb and cause shorts. Since my lamp and ballast were replaced, I have not had the problem.

Cush

Fedreams, I had that problem and it was an older model lamp/ballast going bad. Older lamp assemblies apparently had bits of metal start to flake off the dish of the bulb and cause shorts. Since my lamp and ballast were replaced, I have not had the problem.

Cush

Cush,

Thanks, I'm just waiting for Samsung to call for pick up. The lip sync issue has yet to be addressed. My wife gave the okay for a smaller plasma for everyday use and a projector/screen for home theater, so it is back to the forums for research. :rolleyes:

I had a service call for my HLP5063 (purchased Nov 2004) a few days back, to take care of two problems:

1) TV was turning off by itself. I tried an UPS with AVR (by Tripplite), but that didn't solve the problem.

The Tech replaced the bulb and the ballast. Seems to have fixed the problem, hasn't happened once after that.

2) Screen replacement (smudge problem).

Tech was pretty nice, left the old screen and old bulb.

This was in Fremont, CA. Call to Samsung, appointment and the whole process was pretty easy and prompt. Quite pleased. Hopefully nothing goes wrong with the set from now.

Will the HLP series sets accept 720p/1080i over VGA?

I spoke to Samsung about that some time ago and they said HD can only come in on component and HDMI.

Will the HLP series sets accept 720p/1080i over VGA?

Yes, it does 720p (1280x720) via RGB (VGA) connection on my HLP5685W. Just set the resolution of your videocard driver (I am assuming you are connecting a PC) to 1280x720 @ 60hz.