General Samsung HLP Issues & Questions (Post all here) [Text View] - Page 9

RaceTripper

12-06-05, 01:51 PM

So, I ordered a silver sensor antenna for no reason, huh? Wow, I was just assuming that a TV I bought 10 months ago had to have the capability of receiving an ota signal. This is truly disappointing. What a joke.

I prefer being able to buy a TV without an integrated HD OTA tuner. Otherwise I'd be paying for something I don't use. Many people get the HD OTA reception with their satellite STB, or they get HD locals via cable. For them an integrated tuner is a waste.

tee.edwards

12-06-05, 02:24 PM

I prefer being able to buy a TV without an integrated HD OTA tuner. Otherwise I'd be paying for something I don't use. Many people get the HD OTA reception with their satellite STB, or they get HD locals via cable. For them an integrated tuner is a waste.

I agree. Actually, an integrated tuner was a big deal to me when I bought my HLR5067W, but when I got it home, I found I couldn't get good reception on most digital channels due to a nearby hill, so I ended up getting cable anyway. Effectively, I am now wasting the built-in ATSC tuner AND my Silver Sensor. Ah well . . .

Your User Name:

12-16-05, 04:16 PM

My HLP has been randomly shutting itself off. Most times it just goes to standard stand-by, but sometimes it will blink the red stand-by display along with the green lamp display. I have it plugged into one of those elaborate battery back-up surge protector dealies and the the lamp shouldn't be close to shot. Any ideas?

Background: I originally purchased an HLN and now have an HLP because the Samsung licensed repair guy near me screwed up the set and it had to be replaced. As such, I'm hesitant to mess with the repair folks until I know a little more.

Your User Name:

12-18-05, 12:37 PM

RaceTripper

12-18-05, 12:39 PM

Anyone?

Is the back of the unit getting enough ventilation? Maybe it's an overheating problem.

Your User Name:

12-18-05, 01:46 PM

I think so. I doesn't feel hot and it is pretty cool back there. I don't have it in any sort of enclosure or anything, so there is plenty of air circulating around it and the room stays relatively cool.

RaceTripper

12-18-05, 01:51 PM

oeidesign

12-21-05, 11:38 PM

I just started getting the same problem with my HLP4663W. It started shutting off by itself last week and has been increasing in frequency. Now my TV will barely stay on for 5 minutes and it is getting more difficult to turn back on. I'd love to hear from anyone who has had this problem and solved it!

Cush1978

12-22-05, 11:55 AM

Lamp needs replacement. Some older HLPs have an older lamp/ballast model where the coating on the lamp starts to flake off and cause shorts which turns your TV off. I got an HLP in September of 2004 and it started doing that. The service repair guy explained the problem, replaced the lamp and ballast. Haven't had a problem since.

Cush

oeidesign

12-22-05, 01:32 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll try replacing the bulb and then call service if that does not fix it.

Your User Name:

12-28-05, 02:49 PM

Does anyone know the part number for the lamp for the HLP5063?

Fredster

12-29-05, 01:42 PM

see http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&category%5Fname=&product%5Fid=BP96%2D00608A

Your User Name:

12-29-05, 06:17 PM

Thanks! I am getting a replacement lamp through a large consumer electronics retailer's extended warranty plan. But the TV I now have is not the same as the one I bought. I bought an HLN, but Samsung replaced it with an HLP. The store, for whatever reason, wasn't able to get the part number for the HLP, only the HLN and asked me to find out what it was. Ridiculous.

dirtbag

01-01-06, 09:33 PM

I have just started having the same "lamp shutoff" problem on my HLP5063.

However, I previously had my older-model lamp replaced in the fall of 2004 (as part of a repair for an unrelated problem) and was told that my replacement lamp would not have the "flaking" problem. Therefore, there must be more to this problem than the known issue with the "old" lamps.

I hope that this information may be useful to others in identifying the source of the problem, and I would appreciate hearing any insight that anyone else might have.

Your User Name:

01-09-06, 06:12 PM

Does anyone use a Harmony 659 with their Samsung HLP5063? I just started using the HDMI input and I can't get the Harmony to switch to that source. Any ideas?

RaceTripper

01-09-06, 06:19 PM

Does anyone use a Harmony 659 with their Samsung HLP5063? I just started using the HDMI input and I can't get the Harmony to switch to that source. Any ideas?
Maybe you have one of the older ones (i.e. early firmware) with the broken discretes. I had it and the HDMI discrete didn't work. Samsung replaced the digital board and all is now fine.

bruce73

01-09-06, 08:23 PM

Does anyone use a Harmony 659 with their Samsung HLP5063? I just started using the HDMI input and I can't get the Harmony to switch to that source. Any ideas?
This may be apples and oranges, but I use a Harmony 676 with my 5063, and I had Harmony Support configure the HDMI input for me. It will go to DVI first, then to HDMI. Looks as if they used a discrete for the DVI and then an InputNext to get to the HDMI (or something like that ;) ).

RaceTripper

01-09-06, 08:28 PM

This may be apples and oranges, but I use a Harmony 676 with my 5063, and I had Harmony Support configure the HDMI input for me. It will go to DVI first, then to HDMI. Looks as if they used a discrete for the DVI and then an InputNext to get to the HDMI (or something like that ;) ).
But if you have a Samsung under warranrty, that's unacceptable IMHO. Samsung should fix the set. They fixed mine without a fuss.

bruce73

01-09-06, 10:58 PM

But if you have a Samsung under warranrty, that's unacceptable IMHO. Samsung should fix the set. They fixed mine without a fuss.
Dean, my set has a manufacture date of July, 2004 and original firmware 1024. Perhaps I could get Samsung to fix it, but, in all honesty, it just isn't a big deal with me.

I also am superstitious: with my luck I'd get a nitwit out here to take care of it and inadvertently create another, bigger problem :D . I've had great luck with this set (if you don't count the rainbows and occasional smudges :rolleyes: ) and prefer to leave well enough alone.

RaceTripper

01-10-06, 07:01 AM

Dean, my set has a manufacture date of July, 2004 and original firmware 1024. Perhaps I could get Samsung to fix it, but, in all honesty, it just isn't a big deal with me.

I also am superstitious: with my luck I'd get a nitwit out here to take care of it and inadvertently create another, bigger problem :D . I've had great luck with this set (if you don't count the rainbows and occasional smudges :rolleyes: ) and prefer to leave well enough alone.
Yup...I had 1024. The HDMI discrete will not work, and the Power On discrete will be flakey. Only way to correct is a service call to replace the digital board. I had that done and now have version 1039 with all discretes functioning.

I can understand you not wanting to chance a repair, and if the discrete isn't a big deal I wouldn't wnt to either. I didn't for over a year, but once I got a HDMI device I just didn't like the DVI discrete + switch to HDMI trick. I could see getting calls at work from my wife telling me something is wrong.

Your User Name:

01-10-06, 11:00 AM

I also am superstitious: with my luck I'd get a nitwit out here to take care of it and inadvertently create another, bigger problem :D . I've had great luck with this set (if you don't count the rainbows and occasional smudges :rolleyes: ) and prefer to leave well enough alone.

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm with Bruce on this one. I originally had an HLN and I had some noise coming from my color wheel so I had it fixed under the warranty and the authorized repair man created much bigger problems which eventually (after many visits and much hassle) led to Samsung replacing the HLN with my current HLP. I'm not going to futz with those repair guys unless it is a much bigger issue. For now I guess I'll just get up to switch the input for DVDs.

Cush1978

01-10-06, 02:31 PM

Floydster

01-10-06, 04:46 PM

I must say it is good to hear a good review :D.

I wonder sometimes if the reivews aren't overly critical given the nature of the expertease on these forums. Someone posted a good comment earlier in regards to the all the bad reviews of products on these forums (irregardless of product or vender). It is pretty rare that people actually come on and give a good review. Usually when people are looking for an outlet to voice an opinion or review, it is because of a bad experience as opposed to a good one.

I look forward to my 5063 getting here soon.

Warren in MN

When you say you don't have a lip sync problem, is that using the TV speakers, or are you connected to an external amp (surround sound)?

Floydster

01-10-06, 04:48 PM

Then let me be the first to post about HLP delay.

I was watching Moulin Rouge again the other night to test the lip-synching and it is very apparent that the A/V is out of synch when Ewan sings 'Your Song' to Nicole.

However since it happens nowhere else, I'm thinking it may be the way the DTS is encoded. I'm going to test the Dolby 5.1 track later.

-dlpboy

Do you not notice the delay on other sources?

Floydster

01-10-06, 04:50 PM

After lurking here for the past four or five months I’ve come to a number of conclusions, perhaps erroneously.

If I buy a new Samsung HLPxxxx DLP television I should be prepared for the following:

1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.

2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.

3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.

4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.

5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.

6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.

7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.

8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.

9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”

10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.

11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.

12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.

The attendant costs of HDTV’s are one thing, however here we are in the third generation Samsung DLP’s and the problems associated with being an “early adaptor” still seems to be present. I realize that what I read on this forum is just the tip of the tip of the iceberg, but it is still disheartening to see a product you want to embrace with so many alleged problems.

My thoughts too.

Floydster

01-10-06, 05:52 PM

What r B&M stores?
Chris

Brick and mortar stores. Local businesses.

bruce73

01-10-06, 06:57 PM

bruce73, I had the same HLP with the same build date and same firmware. I had it updated a couple weeks ago. Aside from having to recalibrate the color settings, I haven't suffered any ill effects. The DVI code changed from the first setting in Harmony's database to the 4th (There are 4 for DVI in there).

Of course there's nothing wrong with leaving well enough alone either, but I thought I'd let you know I went ahead and took the plunge without issue.

Cush
Thanks for the positive feedback. I don't doubt for a second that there is a fix for this, and I'm probably being overly cautious (a result, no doubt, of reading too many negative forum posts :D ). And, if it were a bigger issue, I would seriously look into it. But it literally takes an extra second to switch to HDMI input this way and I'm cool with that.

Cush1978

01-10-06, 07:01 PM

I had it wired the same way for the antenna input because that didn't work right either. You're right, it's not much of a hassle. My warranty ends in January and I figured I'd better get all I could out of it. I certainly wouldn't pay $200 to have the problem solved which is the cost of a digital board if I'm not mistaken.

Cush

Your User Name:

01-11-06, 01:45 PM

After lurking here for the past four or five months I’ve come to a number of conclusions, perhaps erroneously.

If I buy a new Samsung HLPxxxx DLP television I should be prepared for the following:

1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.

2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.

3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.

4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.

5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.

6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.

7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.

8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.

9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”

10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.

11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.

12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.

I don't think it is as bad as all that. Yes, different people have had different issues, but remember that of all the DLPs sold a small and very anal minority are on here posting about problems. I have ahd some issues, but I would have bought a new DVD player and rented a STB regardless of which HDTV I bought and not having a UPS for any expensive electronics is just not smart, IMO. If you want plug & play ease of use for pennies, they sell CRT TVs and VCRs for next to nothing. Even then, remember that cliche jokes about setting a VCR's clock exist to this day. It's all relative.

videobruce

01-13-06, 12:00 PM

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

Damnationdoormat

01-13-06, 09:21 PM

I have a HLP5085W and after playing around with the 720p/1080i resolution on my Motorola HD STB and I gotta to my eyes 1080i looks better, but how can this be since the display is 720p natively?

Zack Allen

01-13-06, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by JKay
"After lurking here for the past four or five months I’ve come to a number of conclusions, perhaps erroneously.
If I buy a new Samsung HLPxxxx DLP television I should be prepared for the following:
1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.
2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.
3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.
4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.
5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.
6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.
7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.
8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.
9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”
10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.
11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.
12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.
The attendant costs of HDTV’s are one thing, however here we are in the third generation Samsung DLP’s and the problems associated with being an “early adaptor” still seems to be present. I realize that what I read on this forum is just the tip of the tip of the iceberg, but it is still disheartening to see a product you want to embrace with so many alleged problems."

We've had an HLP 4063 since Sept 2004, and it has been trouble free. I called the company that makes the battery backups in late 2004 and at that time, they had not yet had their products approved for use with TV sets, the question being whether the simulated electromagnetic wave is enough like the real thing. Please make sure that the TV manufacturer approves a backup if you use one. We just use a good surge protector.

The 15-month warranty ran out last month, so we'll see.

It may be hard to find an HLP these days. The HLP's are the third generation (the HD3 chip), while the 4th is the HD2+ chip (5085 pedestal model for example, and the 74 series, which was not around too long but the all black case sure looked nice I thought). I don't know what version they use now in the set that replaced the 63's.

Damnationdoormat

01-14-06, 12:43 AM

1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.
I have an $300 APC 865W/1500 UPS, no problems so far. It withstood a transformer exploding down the street which ignited the wires long the street a few months back.

2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.
I have a Denon 2910 via HDMI. Very pleasing results, especially in terms of color.

Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.
I haven't yet, or even messed in the service menu (not advised) but I calbrated with a couple discs (DVE, Avia) and the results are quite different and better than the display's default. Though tweaking by a professional wouldn't do anything but help.

4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.
The screen may "stick" near the edges when the unit is cold, but they go away as the unit warms. There are reports of blobs that don't go away and my display has little one of the outer edge but repacking it and moving out of the house again would have been nearly impossible. Plus the devil that you know is better than the devil you don't. That said, I never notice it.

5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.
Never saw anything like that.

6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.
HD through DVI: perfect sync
DVD through HDMI: perfect sync
HD through AV Receiver: perfect sync

7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.
Hasn't happened yet. *knocks on wood*

8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.
Got used to it. Sometimes see it on DVD, but very rarely with HD unless I whip my head around like a madman. :p

9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”
Manual states this can occur during manufacting, I have two "half pixels" out. Only see them if you get right up at the screen. Normal viewing distance they aren't discernable at all.

10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.
Yep, HD is beautiful. Plus my DLP had weird color errors starting up to basic "TV" cable. None of that starting up to "No Signal" DVI for the STB.

Zack Allen

01-15-06, 02:34 AM

Damnationdoormat quoted me as having said to purchase a battery backup for DLP TV. I did not say that. I said that the leading seller of backups told me in late 2004 that their products had not yet been approved by Samsung for use with their DLP sets.

I reccomend checking with the TV manufacturer first.

We just use a good surge protector at our house.

Damnationdoormat

01-15-06, 01:43 PM

Damnationdoormat quoted me as having said to purchase a battery backup for DLP TV.

I reccomend checking with the TV manufacturer first.

That wasn't my intention and anyone reading my response could tell this. I was just giving you some feedback on my experience. Thanks for not thanking me for contributing a response. Here I figured I was helping...

That said, there's no way I'm buying something that offers less protection, features, and/or costs more, like Monster's laughable 360W UPS solutions. My DLP is out of warranty either way so it's not like I'll void anything by using a quality approved or unapproved product. If APC wasn't approved by Samsung (in 2004, as "the leading seller" put it), who really could be? APC are a proven leader in data and device protection. After years of experiencing their PC UPS units with excellent results, I'm not using another brand.

Also surge protectors do not keep hot bulbs from potentially blowing if the power trips. No power = No fan.

Zack Allen

01-15-06, 11:47 PM

Damnationdoormat wrote, in reply to my denying having reccomended the use of backups for DLP TV's "That wasn't my intention and anyone reading my response could tell this. I was just giving you some feedback on my experience. Thanks for not thanking me for contributing a response. Here I figured I was helping..."

Sorry about that - didn't mean to offend.

I was also just contributing - replying to whomever it was that made the long list of things that have been offered as protections against DLP malfunctions. I'm not a moderator (and nobody ever thanked me either btw)

I guess it was important to me not to be quoted as reccomending connecting battery backups to DLP TV sets. I don't know enough about them to make that reccomendation.

Yes, it was APC who told me not to use their units with my DLP set. I wasn't sure whehter we are allowed to name manufacturers in that context.

They said that simulated AC power is not reccomended for the feeding of TV sets without a prescription from the maker of the TV. The guy also said that some units are "smart' units that are better in simulating the sine wave or whatever it is, but even those had not been approved by the TV maker as of late '04.

My TV warranty has expired too, but I am still afraid to feed it simulated power (but I am determined to start shutting the TV off more diligently than I have in the past when electrical storms come - I shall let the rented DVR take the hit and watch when it's all over)

RaceTripper

01-16-06, 06:29 AM

Your User Name:

01-16-06, 11:47 AM

If I buy a new Samsung HLPxxxx DLP television I should be prepared for the following:
1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.

I already owned one and think it's a good thing to have when dealing with high-priced electronics, but I doubt the majority of DLP owners have one.

2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.

I recently purchased a new DVD player and now use HDMI, but I used my XBox for years without much concern.

3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.

Never done this, never will. You can rent a calibration DVD at my local video rental store and the improvements were nice, but not to the level of necessity in my opinion.

4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.

Never had this problem.

5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.

Never had this problem.

6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.

Never had this problem and I've used all of my inputs.

7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.

I did have this problem, but a replacement lamp was sent next day free-of-charge and was easy to replace. Haven't had any issues since replacing the original lamp, although it's only been a short time.

8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.

Never had this problem.

9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”

Never had this problem.

10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.

I paid $12 per month for Tivo prior to getting HD. Comcast rents me my 6412 for $10 per month, so I'm actually saving money having made the switch to HD.

11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.

Comcast provided me with a DVI cable for the cable hook-up and my DVD player came with an HDMI cable. I have not purchased any cable separately.

12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.

I did have to replace my original HLN set with an HLP, but that was due to the Samsung authorized repairman @#$ing up my HLN while making a simple color wheel repair (a real problem that many HLN owners experienced). This is the biggest disappointment for me so far. There is only one authorized repair guy in my area and I don't trust him anymore.

Paul_PDX

01-17-06, 06:57 PM

I've had a DLP set (HLN617, HLP6163) for nearly 3 years now, and have had many power outages in that time with the TV running. Had never had a problem with the bulb (or anything else) from TV loosing power abruptly. I have a decent surge protector, but no UPS or anything else. My TV and home theater system are on a dedicated 30 amp line. But no UPS is in use.

Has anyone actually had a problem with the bulb when a DLP set looses power abruptly, or is this just urban myth? The manual doesn't say anything about this either.

My bulb went out Saturday --- last Tuesday my area had a 10 hour power failure that was preceded by the power cycling off and on about a dozen times in a minute. My HLP was on when it happened. I haven't looked at my hour counter in a while but would guess I am near 4000 hours so I may have just been due -- but I hadn't had any other issues leading up to this so I bet the power hits took some toll (I was using a surge protector but no UPS).

RaceTripper

01-17-06, 07:15 PM

My bulb went out Saturday --- last Tuesday my area had a 10 hour power failure that was preceded by the power cycling off and on about a dozen times in a minute. My HLP was on when it happened. I haven't looked at my hour counter in a while but would guess I am near 4000 hours so I may have just been due -- but I hadn't had any other issues leading up to this so I bet the power hits took some toll (I was using a surge protector but no UPS).
I have about 3800 hours on mine now. Maybe a good time for me to buy a backup bulb.

Edit: just ordered replacement lamp. I'll be set to go without interruption when the time comes. I might just swap it right away & then keep my old one as a backup for the next time, so I don't have to worry about buying one in advance.

mmccking

01-18-06, 04:49 AM

I can understand how a PC-based UPS may not work properly for these TVs because it generates binary-like sine waves rather than smooth waves from normal AC power, however, it should be good enough to accomplish at least one goal: proper cooling during a power outage.

I'm using a $90 Belkin UPS for my HLP, sub-woofer, and HD-PVR. During a recent storm where we had multiple short poweroutagess, it did the job admirably. Sure one outage caused the picture to get messed up with computer like garbage. But the other outages didn't affect picture quality at all, in fact, I didn't even realize I lost power for a few seconds.

In all cases, I did immediately proceed to properly turn off my equipment and let the UPS power my TV as it cooled the lamp.

EricScott

01-20-06, 08:18 PM

I have about 3800 hours on mine now. Maybe a good time for me to buy a backup bulb.

Edit: just ordered replacement lamp. I'll be set to go without interruption when the time comes. I might just swap it right away & then keep my old one as a backup for the next time, so I don't have to worry about buying one in advance.

Where did you buy the backup bulb? Samsungparts?

Think I'm pushing about 4,000 hrs and def want to have a backup.

RaceTripper

01-20-06, 08:27 PM

Where did you buy the backup bulb? Samsungparts?
Yup...that's the place. $211 with shipping and it's on it's way for delivery on Tuesday.

I thought about looking around for "deals," but decided against it to avoid getting a substandard fake, so I went the official route. It's not something I want to skimp on.

EricScott

01-20-06, 08:37 PM

Just ordered one. Piece of cake. Love how they have a link to DLP Lamps right on the main page. Been meaning to do this for a while and just haven't gotten around to it.

I agree. Not worth skimping. Had my HLP ISF'd so I want the exact same bulb type to minimize changes in PQ.

bruce73

01-20-06, 10:19 PM

RaceTripper

01-20-06, 10:24 PM

dwette: I'm thinking of doing the same for my 5063, and TVAuthority (my retailer) suggested I go to SamsungParts.com as well -- part #BP96-00826A, which is probably the same as the one you've ordered.

I'm guessing it's no big deal to change out. The manual makes it sound pretty simple. Anything in particular that I should know beforehand?
Yes, same part.

I guess the only precaution I can think of is to make sure the TV is off long enough to allow the lamp to cool. And take your time, don't rush things.

Oh, don't forget to reset the lamplife in the service menu.

bruce73

01-21-06, 12:09 AM

Got it. Thanks.

alwilli

01-21-06, 07:21 PM

Has anyone attempted to do the ring focus procedure on the HLPXX63 models? I took a look at the light engine and there is a lens cover over the focus ring. So I ordered the service manual to see if it mentioned focus like the HLN manual does. Well, It doesn't. It also doesn't show the lens cover in the exploded parts view. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Alvin

Your User Name:

01-22-06, 12:28 PM

Oh, don't forget to reset the lamplife in the service menu.
I just recently replaced my lamp. it is certainly a piece of cake. Question, how do I reset the lamplife in the SM?

RaceTripper

01-22-06, 12:52 PM

I just recently replaced my lamp. it is certainly a piece of cake. Question, how do I reset the lamplife in the SM?
Do you know how to get into the service menu? If not follow these instructions, but be warned you can really screw some things up and you're on your own if you do. I recommend writing down all the settings before changing anything (even resetting lamplife).

(Sorry if this all sounds condescending, but just making sure.)

First, go into the user menu and under setup turn Melody off.
To get into service menu, using your original remote control:
If TV is on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power
If TV is in standby: Mute-1-8-2-Power
If you get into the service menu from power on state, you can exit back to the normal on state with: Power-Power. Otherwise, Power to turn TV off.

So now you know how to get into and exit from the SM. If you had problems doing this, then I suggest you stop there and not worry about resetting the lamplife. Otherwise, once in the service menu, go to the Option screen. There's a Lamp Life field that shows how many hours are on your lamp. Select LampClear. Once you confirm setting clear, the Lamp Life field will reset to 0.

jaykamm

01-30-06, 10:53 AM

Regarding the numerous threads about using a UPS with Samsung DLP TV's:

I just want to post a big Thank You to those who suggested trying the UPS. My Samsung HLP4663W had been shutting itself off sporadically and killed a bulb 53.5 weeks into its life despite being used a few hours a day. And this was with an overpriced Monster Power HTS suppressor/filter that the salesperson said I should use to clean up the power and extend the life of my TV... After much googling and reading some of the posts on this site, I tried the UPS - and in the week I've had an APC PC UPS installed, the TV has had zero issues when I would have normally had ten in that same time. My house is ~15 years old, and there were no other indications of power issues - so I definitely second the recommendation of trying a UPS if you're having issues with a Samsung DLP shutting itself off sporadically.

RaceTripper

01-30-06, 10:59 AM

bruce73

01-30-06, 11:42 AM

jaykamm: what's the model # of the APS?

jaykamm

01-30-06, 12:38 PM

jaykamm: what's the model # of the APS?

Here's a link to the one I purchased: (uh-oh - I can't post a link until I've posted 5 times) - go to office depot's website (again, can't post link) and search for the item number 986360.
[ local store has it for $99.99 instead of the $119 price listed ]

In case that link dies in the future, it's an APC 900VA / 540W unit - the important thing is that it has Automatic Voltage Regulation - most of the cheaper ones didn't have that, and per posts earlier in this thread, that's the feature that actually matters in this case.

I went with a PC-compatible UPS in case this didn't do the trick - at least I could put it on my PC. You may want to do a little more research, but that one definitely did the trick for me and it was available at a store near my house... given the weight of a UPS, shipping can be expensive - so I bought locally.

bruce73

01-30-06, 06:52 PM

Thanks, jaykamm. There's an Office Depot a few miles from me, so I'll take a look. I haven't had any problems, and I seldom see power outages/surges here, but since I've just setup an HTPC it might be good to have them both protected by a UPS.

Antonpd

02-10-06, 05:23 PM

I have an HLP 5063. I'm having Dish Network install a new HD DVR next month and I plan to use HDMI as my input. I am also planning to buy a new upconverting DVD player and I plan to use the DVI input. Will either of these inputs give me a problem since this TV is 2 years old and the new technology just keeps racing by. Will HD DVD or Blu-Ray cause trouble. I read something about HDCP causing problems.

Sorry if these are noob questions. Till now I've only used the component (XBOX) and S-Video (Dish) inputs. I know I know, I buy an HDTV a year ago and only now will use the higher resolutions. Like I said I'm a newb to this stuff :)

Paul_PDX

02-10-06, 05:26 PM

Your 5063 should work fine since both the HDMI and the DVI ports have HDCP.

Soycrema

02-19-06, 10:50 PM

I've had my HLP 4663W for 2 years now and I has been working great.
All of a sudden in the past few weeks, the TV has developed a loud noise coming from the back, where the lamp goes.
Don't know how to describe it, it is a lous humming-spinning noise and I can hear it the whole time the tv is on. Never had this problem before, the TV was quiet, now this noise can be heard over anything I'm watching. Should I be concerned?
Or is this in any way normal? Besides that there is no other problem with the set.
Thanks!

RaceTripper

02-20-06, 07:54 AM

Soycrema

02-20-06, 10:36 AM

Thanks for the reply dwette,
Yes that is how I would describe the sound, like some metallic piece spinning really fast and loud.
I had read that these sets were known to have noisy color wheels, but before I never noticed the sound, now it is just way loud.
I guess I'll be making a service call to CC. :(

Paul_PDX

02-21-06, 07:32 PM

It could also be something caught in the fan -- either way you want it fixed...

JohnDG

03-06-06, 05:39 PM

How does one correctly display an anamorphic DVD that is incorrectly flagged as non-anamorphic? That is, the playback -- without a "squeeze" -- would look vertically stretched.

Looking that the aspect options: zoom1, zoom2 and panorama do not seem to address this.

jdg

Cheezmo

03-06-06, 05:53 PM

Look for a setting on your DVD player. The TV is not autodetecting what is anamorphic and what isn't, the DVD player might be adding the black bars itself.

JohnDG

03-07-06, 11:02 AM

Look for a setting on your DVD player. The TV is not autodetecting what is anamorphic and what isn't, the DVD player might be adding the black bars itself.

The problem is the disc: it is (incorrectly) flagged as 4:3, not as anamorphic. So the DVD player is passing it along "as is." If I have a 4:3 input signal, and I choose "16:9: for the screen aspect ration, will it squeeze the anamorphic material correctly?

As I do not have a set yet, I cannot experiment.

jdg

Cheezmo

03-07-06, 11:09 AM

On my HL-P5063, when you send it 480p over component you get two screen size options. Wide and 4:3. 4:3 will do what you want.

Rafter Man

03-08-06, 09:01 PM

Make sure they don't try to replace the whole engine (very expensive). Likely you just need a new color wheel which is relatively inexpensive. Bad fan is also a possibility

daShader

03-09-06, 09:17 PM

Can I replace fan by myself? Or clean it? Or do I need a service call... I am ok with working electronics, but don't want to void the warranty.

Reason I want to do this, is my HLP5063W started randomly shutting down... it turns back on without trouble. But it's quite annoying when it turns off in middle of movie, heh.

I suspect it's due to dusty fan on the lamp causing it to heat up, and temperature sensor turns TV off.

Mick

Cheezmo

03-10-06, 02:49 AM

It could also be a failing lamp ballast, which is pretty common on that model. The fan is not user serviceable so if you are still under warranty just call them up. If it is a bad lamp ballast you may get a new lamp in the deal!

sxx

03-10-06, 12:30 PM

Hi, I just received my HLR5667 not too long ago. Still in the process of setting it up and calibrating it. This site and thread is very helpful. My question is, when I turn on the tv there is a buzzing sound coming from the set and goes away after a few seconds. The buzzing happens again when I turn off the tv, it's kinda loud. I just want to make sure that the buzzing is normal. Still new to the set so I can't elaborate more. Great site. Thanks, Steve
I apologize for the doubel post, this quetion goes better here.

Soycrema

03-14-06, 10:31 AM

Thanks for your replies guys.
Fortunately I bought the 4 year extended warranty from CC and the tech came this morning (after all that time)
After inspecting the TV for 10 minutes he told me I have a bad color wheel, he will try to order that but most likely they will replace the entire light engine.
It should take a week to get the parts and then they will contact me to schedual the repair.
It there a disadvantage on replacing just the color wheel instead of the whole light engine?
Thanks!

RaceTripper

03-14-06, 12:38 PM

Iceblade

03-26-06, 12:40 PM

Ok, guys. I posted a separate thread on this, but have little to no one responding who actually OWNS an HLP-5685 and can test something for me. For any of you out there willing to help... here's the link to my question which boils down to this.

With no lights on in your room (i.e. dark room), if you turn on your DLP and have just a black screen showing without any source playing (say you select the DVI input but don't turn on the DVD player connected to the DVI input), do you see "football shaped" internal reflections repeated over and over in varying levels of "grey" all over the lower half of your screen. They are pretty noticeable to me... even during dark scenes on movie playback. It doesn't seem to make a difference which input I select or watch... they all have it. Do I just have a bad internal reflection issue that no other owner's have, or what?

Anyway, I'd LOVE to hear a "yea" or "nay" from anyone else who has this set... just for a sanity check.

Here's the thread where I talk about it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660052

Thanks and regards,
Jeff

cyclocommuter

03-26-06, 01:09 PM

I have an HLP5685W and it does not have this "football" reflection issue.

Iceblade

03-26-06, 10:48 PM

Thanks, cyclocommuter. If you happen to know... can you tell me your build date or firmware revision?

Mine is firmware Rev 1031 and build date of December 2004.

Just so you all don't think I am seeing things, I managed to snag these shots of the footballs tonight in a darkened room.

http://home.entouch.net/hayes/Images/FootballInternalReflections.JPG

And no, the footballs don't go away on a totally black screen. The white box (which is actuall a blue box with white lighting that says "Still") doesn't cause the IRs.

Thanks,
Jeff

cyclocommuter

03-26-06, 11:26 PM

Thanks, cyclocommuter. If you happen to know... can you tell me your build date or firmware revision?

Mine is firmware Rev 1031 and build date of December 2004.

Jeff

Not sure about the firmware but mine was built in September 2004.

billodom

03-26-06, 11:29 PM

Ok, guys. I posted a separate thread on this, but have little to no one responding who actually OWNS an HLP-5685 and can test something for me. For any of you out there willing to help... here's the link to my question which boils down to this...
Anyway, I'd LOVE to hear a "yea" or "nay" from anyone else who has this set... just for a sanity check.
Jeff, I have owned an HLP for over 10 months now. Granted, mine is a 4663 but I had a similar issue to yours. Incidentally, mine was built in February of 2005, firmware version 1035 though the firmware probably wouldn't be relevant. Almost immediately, I noticed a semi-circle on the lower right bottom edge of the screen. It was only visible in dark scenes and resembled very closely the football-shaped patterns you have. I only had the one but mine was more defined than yours and measured probably 3 inches across. Like you, I wondered if it was an internal reflection. I had Samsung out to replace my screen for the smudge issue, even though I never had them, and the guy took note of it but didn't have a fix for it. I was leery, having read a lot of AVS threads, about having the light engine replaced and figured it would do more harm than good. I decided to live with it, and I did. That is, until around last Thanksgiving. Around that time I began to notice smallish black dots appearing in different places on the screen. From my 12-15 foot viewing distance they weren't too bad at first but eventually, especially on white scenes, they became too distracting. I probably had 20-25 of the little dots and still the one 3-inch semi-circle. I called Samsung, they sent a guy out, and he replaced the light engine. Problem solved. I did have to go into the service menu shortly after that and adjust the index setting as I was getting excessive dithering and banding in dark scenes. All has been well since that time. I guess all that to say that it looks to me like you need a new light engine. Hope this helps.

Iceblade

03-27-06, 07:46 AM

Thanks for the info, Bill. Did you base your resetting of the "index" setting on values you had written down from your previous light engine settings, or did you just tweak until it looked better? I hope to have this set ISF'd in the near future, but I want to take care of this issue prior to that.

Thanks,
Jeff

billodom

03-27-06, 02:54 PM

Did you base your resetting of the "index" setting on values you had written down from your previous light engine settings, or did you just tweak until it looked better?

Jeff, it was the latter. I never dreamed I would have to go into the service menu and adjust that value. After replacing the LE, the overall picture was/is brighter and of course none of the previous optical problems were present so I was happy about that, but as I began watching more critically and tweaking the settings I began to notice that dithering/banding problem. In my previous post I indicated it was in dark scenes but it was actually more widespread than that, for instance, blue sky, solid wall scenes, things like that. Incidentally, I still get some dithering/banding on some SD programming but I haven't gone back into the SM to try to adjust it. Apparently some of that is inherent in DLPs, so I am content to live with it. It is pretty minor. Hopefully, if they do wind up replacing your LE, you won't have those issues. FYI, here is the thread that gave me the info I needed to make the adjustment: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=599100&page=1&pp=30
Frankly I can't remember--and I didn't write down--my "before" and "after" values but I did not make a huge adjustment. I recall changing the value plus or minus a factor of 4, FWIW. Sorry to be so vague. Let us know how it goes.

Iceblade

03-27-06, 06:40 PM

Gotcha. For what it's worth... Samsung is extending my warranty to cover this repair. Service scheduler needs to call me back to schedule the call... of course, since I am already home today and tomorrow. I'm sure they'll want to do it when I go back to work. :(

Anyway... interesting thing that the Samsung CSR told me. You know how you get the "extra 3 months of warranty" if you register online? Well, he said, "Yeah, we extend it only IF you need it." Seems weird to me. I guess unless you call them and say you have a problem outside of the 12 months, your warranty ended on the 12th month. Whatever. Anyway, I should hopefully at least have the service call in the next week. We'll take it from there. Thanks for the help and sanity checks, guys.

Regs,
Jeff

VA Ringer

03-29-06, 08:47 PM

During the time I owned an HLP Samsung Techs replaced the original screen to get rid of the smudge problem. A different tech decided to replace the second screen for no apparent reason. I ended up returning the HLP for an HLR but I still have a perfectly good screen sitting packaged in the corner. Pay for shipping & handling and its yours.
If interested, email me at mac70bsp@aol.com.

Bruce Fan

03-30-06, 09:16 AM

I had my color wheel replaced last Feb (2 months after purchase) due to excessive whining. They changed it to an air bearing unit and it was great...until a couple of weeks ago.

They've agreed to replace it again under warranty but I'm curious if anyone else has had their air bearing color wheel go so quickly. I have a little over 2000 hours on the unit now over 15 months.

thanks!

Iceblade

03-30-06, 10:09 AM

FWIW,

Talked to a trusted ISF guy about my "white blobs" issue and he is pretty certain it's dust in the light engine. I called the service company again yesterday to ask when they were going to contact me for service, but got only v-mail. If I don't hear from them by this afternoon I'll call yet again.

Thanks,
Jeff

Iceblade

03-30-06, 02:37 PM

Service company called at around 10am today. We're all setup for April 12th and they will be bringing a new light engine. God willing, this will be the end of my Samsung issues. More to come.

Also, I plan to have the set ISF'd by a GREAT ISF tech and member of this board, umr. He pretty much flat out said there's no point in jotting any settings down from the current service menu because once the new light engine is installed all bets are off as to if they will be the same or even close. Cool... less work for me, but possibly crappier greyscale and gamma issues until he comes over to do the set.

Regs,
Jeff

dlp_steve

04-07-06, 03:08 PM

I had the same noise, had my color wheel replaced, now I have bad image quality. Service is bringing a new light engine. I hope this helps.

Steve

Thanks for your replies guys.
Fortunately I bought the 4 year extended warranty from CC and the tech came this morning (after all that time)
After inspecting the TV for 10 minutes he told me I have a bad color wheel, he will try to order that but most likely they will replace the entire light engine.
It should take a week to get the parts and then they will contact me to schedual the repair.
It there a disadvantage on replacing just the color wheel instead of the whole light engine?
Thanks!

vinbar

04-07-06, 03:12 PM

I recently purchased a Samsung 5067 and have it connected to an HD box provided by Direct TV. When viewing live fast moving HD sporting events(basketball) the pixels around the moving image soften or blur, occassionally trailing the image.
Also lines, such as on a referee's shirt, seem to vibrate or move.
Can anyone tell me if this situation can be remedied?I spent a great deal of time on the phone with Direct TV and they claim this is not a problem with the satellite connection.

spdtrpl

04-08-06, 12:51 PM

My HLP4663w has started shutting itself down after anything from 10 minutes to 2 hours. It will start right away and the picture quality is excellent. It does not show any error codes on the LEDs and the TV is well ventilated, vents are clean.
I tried going through all 70 pages of this thread (and failed) and found a number of people who have experienced what sounds like the same problem.

Should I replace the lamp unit ($200?) or go ahead and call a repair tech.?

Thanks for any help..

Kieran

04-08-06, 09:02 PM

What's the latest on the old audio sync issue? My parents bought a Samsung dlp about 18months ago, and it's got the sync problem bad. They don't seem to care :-|

I however, may be in the market soon, and am wondering if Samsung has fixed the problem in more recent models, or is it still fairly prevalent? I don't want to have to rely on audio delay via an outside device. So, if that's the only real fix, I may have to rule out Samsungs... unless the problem has been fixed in recent models.

Thanks!

Bruce Fan

04-09-06, 02:55 PM

What is the difference in newer firmware?

I just had my digital board replaced (HLP4663W) as my Comp Input 2 was shifted left and everything else was fine. They couldn't figure out how to shift just one input so they replaced the board and it have fixed it. Of course all my settings are gone and quite different now when callibrating with DVE.

I noticed my firmware had changed from 1035 to 1039. Is there any significant difference?

Many thanks!

Lampei

04-19-06, 05:49 PM

Today I tried to turn on my HLP5674 and the lamp light in front kept flashing...no color wheel noise and no picture. I unplugged the unit, let it sit for about 10 seconds then plugged it back in. Everything now seems to be back to normal, but I wanted to see if anyone else has encountered this (and if I should be expecting any other issues i.e. should I be calling the warranty guys and getting them to service it). I've had the TV, issue-free, since January of '05.
Thanks.

RaceTripper

04-19-06, 06:12 PM

Iceblade

04-19-06, 06:23 PM

Just FYI...

Tech came out. Replaced whole light engine. Bye bye white spots. He's seen it before plenty of times. Took him longer to take out all the screws on the back of the tv than it did to pop in the new engine. I now have a new virgin bulb and everything and am enjoying my picture again. Thanks for the help and thanks to my tech and Samsung for the great warranty service!

Regs,
Jeff

Lampei

04-19-06, 07:33 PM

Happened to my HLP6163 just last week. It's been fine before that and fine since. Software hickup I suppose.

Thanks :) Puts my mind at ease...I bought the warranty so I'm not too worried, but still...gotta have the big screen :D

jbarbbcuny

04-19-06, 09:27 PM

Lampei: It happened to me several times. Turned if off and it was OK. Then I couldn't get a picture no matter what I did. Bought a new bulb and it's working again. $200 I'm quite annoyed tho, as I haven't more than a 1000 hours on the set. It's an HLP 5067.

Stan Rozenfeld

04-20-06, 02:44 AM

I have enjoyed my Samsung HLP6163 for well over a year now, ever since the tech fixed the smudges problem. Of course, now I wish I waited for a 1080p set, but then I would have missed all those great hours of watching movies on this set. :-)

Anyway, I just received my Toshiba hd a1 HD DVD player and am waiting for a couple of hd dvds to test it out. Most of the people who have 1080p sets are quite ecstatic about the picture quality of hd dvds, but I find that the reaction is a little bit more muted or mixed when it comes to 720p sets. It seems that Toshiba's 1080i to 720p scaling is quite awful and the general recommendation is that you need to output to 1080i, and then let the display handle the scaling. So a lot depends on display's scaling ability.

Question 1: Does anyone know how Samsung HLP scales 1080i to 720p? Does it go 1080i to 1080p to 720p, OR does it go 1080i to 540p to 720p?

Question 2: Has anyone checked if there is a signifcant difference in quality on Samsung hlp between hd dvd and sd dvd?

I know there is a big thread over at hd player forum, but I wanted to ask questions specific to out display.

Thanks,
Stan

GoSpurs99

04-27-06, 12:30 PM

RaceTripper

04-27-06, 12:45 PM

Quick question.

I am living in Germany. I have a Sammy HLP-5674W. I have an opportunity to get Sky Digital Sattelite Cable.

Only problem is that the Sammy is only NTSC. The digital sattelite will output only (HD and digital channels) PAL.

The family is going nuts, especially the kids. Me too, but it will have NFL and NBA in HD, so it's good for me too:)

Please, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave
I have a Sammy HLP6163W and it accepts a PAL signal on component inputs from my Arcam DVD player (which outputs Progressive PAL is I ask it to).

I'm pretty sure all the Sammy DLPs are NTSC and PAL.

GoSpurs99

04-27-06, 12:50 PM

Dwette,

Thanks for the quick reply.

I'll double check.

If any others can chime in I'd appreciate it.

Thanks again,
Dave

JoeSchueller

04-29-06, 08:43 AM

HELP!!!

I've had my wonderful HLP 5063 for nearly 2 years now and it has started a very nasty habit. On startup (especially in the morning where it hasn't been running for quite some time), it emits a very disturbing whirring or buzzing sound that sounds a lot like a labored fan or some rotating part struggling. As the TV warms up, the sound definitely subsides, but I do feel that my HLP is getting louder.

Without hearing it yourself, I don't expect anyone here to definitively say if it is the colorwheel or the fan (praying for fan). Anyone experience something similar? If so, how was it resolved? Any guess what service might cost (if it is necessary)? Is the fan somewhere I could get at it, perhaps it is like a component PC fan?

I can't imagine it is the color wheel, if it was spinning at anything other than the prescribed speed, I'd have massive picture issues, right? Any insights would be GREATLY appreciated.

-Joe

_______________________________________________________
EDIT:

OK thx Cheezmo for the info, I now know I can't do anything if it is the fan, but now I have to be concerned we're talking about a ballast. I think the frequency is a bit lower than I'd expect if it were a ballast failing, but it is entirely possible. I was about to purchase a backup lamp as I have 3360 hours on the current one. Could it be the lamp or the ballast struggling to fire up an older/cold lamp? Should I swap it now? Thoughts?!?!

bruce73

04-29-06, 01:01 PM

I have a Sammy HLP6163W and it accepts a PAL signal on component inputs from my Arcam DVD player (which outputs Progressive PAL is I ask it to).

I'm pretty sure all the Sammy DLPs are NTSC and PAL.
Dean, are you saying the DLPs are both NTSC and PAL? If so, I don't see that on my HLP-5063W. I can play PAL encoded DVDs on my Denon 2910, but only if I have it convert to NTSC before outputting. If I set the Denon to "AUTO" (which outputs natively whatever the source is), the TV will complain that a PAL video is unsupported.

RaceTripper

04-29-06, 06:18 PM

Dean, are you saying the DLPs are both NTSC and PAL? If so, I don't see that on my HLP-5063W. I can play PAL encoded DVDs on my Denon 2910, but only if I have it convert to NTSC before outputting. If I set the Denon to "AUTO" (which outputs natively whatever the source is), the TV will complain that a PAL video is unsupported.
I've had it work in the past. The TV even showed 720x576@50Hz when I'd bring up info.

However, I had some repair done on my DVD player (to fix CD playback problems) and the TV got a new digiboard (from v1024 to v1039), and now it's having some problems with syncing on PAL. It shows the video, just not correctly. I don't know what's up with it now, but I have watched a PAL DVD without the player converting to NTSC first. I think the problem now may be with the player outputting progressive PAL. But even with the video off, brining up Info on the TV still shows 720x576@50Hz for PAL (instead of 720x480@60Hz for NTSC).

bennutt

04-30-06, 02:48 PM

[QUOTE=JoeSchueller]HELP!!!

I've had my wonderful HLP 5063 for nearly 2 years now and it has started a very nasty habit. On startup (especially in the morning where it hasn't been running for quite some time), it emits a very disturbing whirring or buzzing sound that sounds a lot like a labored fan or some rotating part struggling. As the TV warms up, the sound definitely subsides, but I do feel that my HLP is getting louder.

Without hearing it yourself, I don't expect anyone here to definitively say if it is the colorwheel or the fan (praying for fan). Anyone experience something similar? If so, how was it resolved? Any guess what service might cost (if it is necessary)? Is the fan somewhere I could get at it, perhaps it is like a component PC fan?

I can't imagine it is the color wheel, if it was spinning at anything other than the prescribed speed, I'd have massive picture issues, right? Any insights would be GREATLY appreciated.

-Joe

[QUOTE]

I would bet big money on the color wheel. This sounds exactly like the problem I had. Mine was servced under warranty and involved a tech removing the entire light engine to get at the wheel. Not for the faint of heart ;)
Have not had one problem since, and the picture does not degrade when it happens. Sounds sort of like a skillsaw cutting through wood.
Good Luck!
J

JoeSchueller

05-03-06, 09:41 AM

Ugh... no warranty here, so light engine/color wheel replacement won't be until the sound becomes unbareable or picture degrades.

Aside from picture degradation, the other reason I mostly eliminated the color wheel from my thinking was that the sound is only around on cold starts. This isn't an issue in the afternoon or evening, just in the morning or the first time the TV comes on after being powered down 8+ hours. Would increasing the temp. inside the TV reduce the noise from the wheel? Just sounds unlikely to me.

JoeSchueller

05-05-06, 09:37 AM

EricScott

05-05-06, 10:01 AM

And the saga continues... suddenly analog audio sources are now having serious problems. My wife reported problems with the sound from DVD's. I have an older Sony DVD with S-Video and RCA audio connections. I figured maybe something was loose, or perhaps a source problem, because the data from my HR10-250 (via HDMI) was flawless.

Unfortunately I went to use a different analog input last night, and the audio was bed there as well. Just sounds "garbled" and filled with static. I guess I have to give in... "Hello, 1-800-Samsung?" UGH!

Anyone else have a color wheel replaced outside of warranty? What are we talking on repair expenses here? Do I have a shot at making a stink w/ Samsung on this? The color-wheel clearly should NOT be a wear and tear part. Can I get a firmware upgrade at the same time (I'd like my discreets to work)? Think that will cost me?

It will probably be pretty pricey. Don't let them change out the entire light engine if it's only a color wheel issue as the LE will probably cost $1000 or more. But I would definitely try to make a stink w/ Samsung - can't hurt. My two experiences with their tech support group were exteremely pleasant (granted I was under warranty).

In terms of upgrading the firmware, they will need to swap out the digital board, which I'm guessing will cost you something as well. May not have as much of a case on that one as the broken color wheel.

By any chance did you purchase the display w/ an Amex card? If you did, Amex extends the mfg warranty for a year and if you registered at samsung.com you have 15 months from them or 27 months total. So you may actually be under warranty.

JoeSchueller

05-05-06, 10:04 AM

Holy s*&%! You are my new hero. I absolutely did purchase using an AMEX. That is awesome. I need to jump on their site and figure out how to leverage that. THANKS!!!

EricScott

05-05-06, 10:06 AM

Holy s*&%! You are my new hero. I absolutely did purchase using an AMEX. That is awesome. I need to jump on their site and figure out how to leverage that. THANKS!!!

I've never actually used the service but I'm pretty sure they will take care of you. Curious to know how it ultimately works out.

JoeSchueller

05-07-06, 09:05 AM

I'll keep you posted. First, I called AMEX to find out how it works. They take a bunch of your info, then send you a few forms to fill out. You have to get a repair estimate, and they essentially credit your account the total cost of repairs (or replacement) if your claim is legit. It isn't a fast process, and it requires you to front the cash for repairs, but is a lot better than being left twisting.

Next, I called Samsung. Had a very nice tech support weenie on the phone and explained the problem. He came back asking if I got the notice regarding a change in the type of bearings used in the color wheel. I responded I had not, and he went on to tell me that since I was out of warranty, there was nothing he could do. I knew the position he was in, so I politely told him that I'd like to speak to someone else about how dissatisfied I was that a $3K television had a non-wear-and-tear major component fail within 2 years. If he's saying there was a design flaw in the CW bearings, the set should have been recalled or repaired at their expense. He gave me an incident number and who I could call/fax for escallation. I may make another run at that on Monday to see what Samsung will do. I know I don't have a legal leg to stand on because of the warranty period, but this does feel pretty hinky, and I'll make sure they understand that I'll quickly go from a Samsung advocate (I've sold about 3 HLR's) to a major Samsung detractor regarding their terrible design and inability to stand behind their very pricey, low quality products.

Any other HLP owners out there have their CW bearings replaced?

Bruce Fan

05-08-06, 08:58 AM

I had my ball bearing colour wheel replaced with an air bearing wheel about two months after purchasing my HLP4663 (purchased Dec 04) because of excessive noise. I just recently noticed the whine starting again (no picture degradation) so before my warranty ran out (they gave me an extra three months for registering on-line) I had it replaced.

Very annoying but easily done. I don't know what it would cost without warranty...

Good luck!

Cush1978

05-08-06, 05:16 PM

Question! I have an HLP-5063W. I used to run a Dreamcast out of the PC/VGA port. I had my firmware upgraded to the latest firmware. Now the Dreamcast doesn't work. The screen keeps "flipping" like when you change inputs or screen resolutions on a PC monitor, but I never see a picture.

What could've caused that and what can change it?

Cush

JoeSchueller

05-11-06, 02:49 PM

OK... so the tech is here... not the most confidence inspiring guy. Anyway, I had 2 problems:
1) The CW bearing is going (I have the pre air-bearing design)
and
2) The sound on the tuner, and S-Video inputs is garbled and filled with static (HDMI is fine)

He's really struggling w/ #2, and hasn't really started on #1. We've already tried an analog board, now going for the digital one too it looks like. This could get pricey. AMEX better back me up! :-)

Maybe I'll get lucky and get a little F/W upgrade while we're at it. Discreets for my Harmony wouldn't be all bad.

RaceTripper

05-11-06, 02:57 PM

JoeSchueller

05-11-06, 03:02 PM

Of course, it also means all my settings (including gamma) need to be reset (no biggie). Digital board fixed the sound... color wheel is going in now. Kind of a cool lookin part.
------------------------

Anyone know what the current F/W is... mine now reads T_ALTNUS_1039.

Colors are totally f'ed right now, and he had to retreat to the van for a svc. manual...

Getting a little nervous here! :confused:

Right now the SM is white on a puky green, reds are blue, and greens are green.

Anyone know what to change/set?

------------------------

CRAP! :mad: My precious HLP5063 just got in a minivan to retreat to the shop for 7-10 days b/c this ya-hoo couldn't figure it out and wouldn't just call Samsung. Was tempted to make him leave it so I could just figure it out myself, but since we're about to go on vacation, I reluctantly agreed. The saga continues. Interesting to have a 17" LCD PC monitor hooked ot my HR10-250 in the space meant for a 50" widescreen.

Cush1978

05-12-06, 11:35 AM

My replacement firmware was 1039 as well. It was installed in January.

Cush

helmut

05-14-06, 03:06 AM

Wingfan191

05-14-06, 08:31 PM

jsantors

05-16-06, 12:06 PM

I have an HL-P4663W and it start to turn itself off during viewing.
Sometimes I wait 30 seconds and power it back on and it plays for hours again.
Other times it seems to turn off right after I turn it back on.
Any idea what is causing this problem?
It does not seem like overheating.
Possible lamp problem?
Thanks in advance.

EricScott

05-16-06, 05:09 PM

hey guys, I have two questions here regarding the HLP5063 set

1 - What do you use to clean the screen? I was using a soft swifter wipe and that worked very well, but there were some smudges on the screen which weren't coming off with that, so I tried to use a paper towl with some water on it to see if it would dissolve the smudge. After using that, there's now streaks on the screen and I can't get them to go away. Is there a safe method to get these off?

I would use a microfiber cloth and some very light water or if you really want to do a good job get some Monster ScreenClean. In general I think Monster products are a ripoff but this stuff works really well and includes a couple of microfiber cloths.

2 - The past month and a half every 4:3 tv show has been off center. It's like the whole image has been shifted to the right by a few inches, nothing is being cut off, but I'm wondering why the image has moved. All my 720p or 1080i stuff seems to be just fine. I thought it was something to do with my cable box, but I can't find anything wrong with it or any of the inputs.

There is a setting in the service menu which lets you adjust the horizonal and vertical position of the image and it affects all inputs. If you want to venture in the service menu (search around for an htwaits post which has very detailed instructions) it's easy to find but be careful.

DrumDude

05-16-06, 05:58 PM

OK I'm going on 4076 hours on lamp (had my HLP5063W a year now) and its still going strong. Ive had my HTPC hooked to it through DVI til today. I went back to VGA and not noticed a clear difference (correct me if youre experience is different). I then hooked up my HD/cable box (Motorola) to TV with the DVI (used to be component only) so it is now hooked to TV via S-video (for PIP), component, and DVI.

Before I could go wide, expand, zoom, etc in SD TV, but now since I hooked up the DVI all SD stations are in in 4:3 when in 'Wide' and squished when in '4:3'! Cant use any other settings. Is this normal? Or is there a way to fix this? It seems DVI loses some contrast but is very slightly clearer, so I may just go back to component, but want to be clear on why this happens.

Another question is I have had the left and right smudges since day one but like a few others was afraid to have the new screen put on for fear of the tech causing more problems. My warrenty has expired 3 weeks ago and I wondered if Samsung would still replace the screen even after warrenty expired since it is a defect of the HLP line. I hardly notice it so more curious than anything. Would they?

Last question while I'm at it. Has anyone come up with anymore tips to minimize audio sync issues? Gotten lucky to have it as minimal as it is now by turning off sound in TV, DNle, Digital noise reduction, but like someone else stated some DVD's are worse than others (moulin rouge). Thanks for any help.

DrumDude

DrumDude

05-16-06, 07:28 PM

Well I gave Samsung a call and lo and behold after telling them about the smudges they are going to extend my warranty til july 24th! A post in this thread led me to believe that when he got his screen changed he also got a new lamp. Is this true? That would be so sweet! Anyway hopefully this thread isnt dead and someone can help me answer my questions. Thanks in advance.

DrumDude

DrumDude

05-17-06, 01:27 AM

Also I accidently reset my lamp lifespan in service menu as well have altered the gamma setting. I hope that doesnt get me in trouble.....

DrumDude

Iceblade

05-17-06, 10:11 AM

DrumDude,

Don't get your hopes up for a new lamp. The screen replacement has nothing to do with the lamp. If someone who knows Samsung DLP's goes into your service menu, it'll be pretty clear that you reset your lamp hours if you tv is over a year old and you have under 100 hours on it. I wouldn't sweat it though. Now if you were trying to get a new lamp out of the deal by saying "hey... it's going way too soon and I have 4500 hours on it!", then you might be screwed.

Either way, this is one of the reasons most of us put the caveat "ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK" when talking about changing things in the service menu.

Good luck with your repair,
Jeff

Cush1978

05-17-06, 08:41 PM

jsantos, you most likely need a new lamp and ballast. The coating on the older lamps can flake and cause shorts which cause the power to go out. I had the same problem.

Cush

audioAPE

05-17-06, 11:46 PM

Hey guys,

Back in mid-2004 I purchased one of the first HLP4663W's to come out and I have had zero problems with this set. I'm currently running about 500 hours on the lamp. Last Friday I powered up the set to find the following:

-The image projected was shifted about 3/4" to the left
-The image (and menus, etc.) was projected upside down and mirrored
-The screen had a flicker to it, similar to a low refresh rate on a monitor

Has anyone experienced anything close to this? I'm sort of shocked that this happened so suddenly. I had watched a movie about a week prior without any problems. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

- Daniel

Cheezmo

05-18-06, 12:00 AM

audioAPE

05-18-06, 01:21 AM

Sounds like some of the service mode parameters have become corrupted. Try unplugging it for a few minutes and powering it up again, in case it just somehow didn't read the values properly one time, but apart from that someone will need to make sure that the memory in the set that stores the service mode settings is working OK and reset the parameters to their proper values.

That's what I was thinking too, so I unplugged the set for quite sometime, and started it up again with no change. There's no way to default back to factory settings, is there?

Iceblade

05-18-06, 10:18 AM

Nope, there's no "reset to factory" magic key sequence or button.

Regs,
Jeff

audioAPE

05-18-06, 11:09 AM

Nope, there's no "reset to factory" magic key sequence or button.

Regs,
Jeff

Okay, in that case, under the service menu, does anyone know which would be the values to at least get the screen right-side up?

DrumDude

05-18-06, 04:06 PM

Iceblade

05-18-06, 04:10 PM

Wickeds69

05-18-06, 04:26 PM

I have been searching the net and found very few references to the issue I am having. I have had my unit for just over a year and recently the blacks have been intermittently changing to a very bright green. I had the Samsung repair guy out and he replaced the PCB (I believe). Problem significantly reduced occurances, but is still doing it. It appears to happen for a random period of time then return to normal, which, as you can imagine, complicates the technicians troubleshooting. I have also verified that the issue occurs on all inputs that I have in use which includes, ant-a, ant-b, s-video, component-1, and HDMI. I have a couple pictures of this happening and I was going to link them here, but apparently I am not a long enough member to post links yet. I do have the pictures for reference though. Anybody have any ideas??

Thanx
Rich

jsantors

05-18-06, 04:52 PM

jsantos, you most likely need a new lamp and ballast. The coating on the older lamps can flake and cause shorts which cause the power to go out. I had the same problem.

Cush

Thanks, I ordered a new lamp from the samsung part store, since my model is supposedly user replaceable. I saw a picture of it and it looks like a nice cubed, self-contained unit that should drop right in.

smithre4

05-18-06, 05:27 PM

Hi all,

Lately I noticed that my HLP6163 seems darker when viewing in the daylight (possibly because I don't notice it as much when watching TV at night with the lights off). It just so happened that today I watched the entire boot up sequence of my hardware and here's what I noticed:

1. Comcast STB turns on and defaults to that purple info channel
2. TV turns on.
3. At first the picture is bright; what I'd probably consider a decent brightness level considering the daylight filtering into the room.
4. About 20-30s later, the TV noticeably dims, i.e. that default purple info channel gets darker.

I checked the SM menu and the lamp life register 3716. Any thoughts on what could be causing this dimming effect (e.g. the bulb maybe)? Like I said, I don't really notice this during the evening, but it makes watching TV during the day extremely hard, because of the darkness (yes this is really hard to explain).

Current DVI settings:
Contrast - 92
Brightness - 56
Sharpness - 0
Color - 38

Thanks in advance for any help/pointers,

Ross

entermymatrix

05-18-06, 10:30 PM

did anyone ever figure out how to get rid of the smears on the screen when you first power on the hlp sets? i've resolved every other issue but that one. my warrenty is up and i was thinking about opening up the set and cleaning the inside of the screen with a microfiber cloth. think this will work and how hard do you guys think this task would be? also, the ones that have watched samsung change the screen, what do i do to get to the screen? thanks.

DrumDude

05-18-06, 11:02 PM

DD,

What output rez is your cable box set to? 480p/720p/1080i? The Sammy reacts differently based on the signal input it sees on the DVI input versus the analog component input. This most likely is the cause. I'm unfamiliar with your cable box, but make sure you have it setup for 16:9 output as well, just in case you haven't.

Regs,
Jeff

Motorola DCT6200/1000 is the model. Cannot find anywhere in setup to pick 16:9 or 720p. It also does it on my Samsung HD CRT downstairs and only when a DVI connection is present. HELP!

DrumDude

DrumDude

05-19-06, 12:26 AM

EricScott

05-19-06, 09:14 AM

k I found where to access those options. have some functions back, but depending on what settings are picked some functions still arent supported. for example my 5063W TV wont do 480i on the DVI connection etc. Will keep playing around with different settings.

DrumDude

P.S. I got my warranty extended to July 24th and was wondering if Samsungs warranty covers free bulb replacement?

Right. The Samsung won't accept 480i over DVI or HDMI but will accept all other output formats (480p, 720p and 1080i). If you send a 480p or 1080i signal your picture size options should be Wide and 4:3 on DVI or HDMI. If you send 720p you also have the "Expand" option which provides 1:1 pixel mapping and is recommended.

Over component, the Samsung will accept 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. If you send 480i (and I believe 480p - not sure about this point) then you have the Zoom picture size options available.

Iceblade

05-19-06, 10:22 AM

What Eric said. :) He got it spot on. DD, are you seeing results contrary to what Eric illustrated so eloquently?

Regs,
Jeff

bruce73

05-19-06, 11:50 AM

...Over component, the Samsung will accept 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. If you send 480i (and I believe 480p - not sure about this point) then you have the Zoom picture size options available.
I, too, run a 5063 via Component from a moto 6200, and IIRC (I'm at work now) Zoom will not be available for 420p, which is why I have the 6200 set to 420i for SD sources.

DrumDude

05-19-06, 03:53 PM

EricScott

05-19-06, 03:58 PM

Thats exactly my findings Eric, thx. DVI is a bit brighter and clear vs component. Component darks are better but a tad more grainy on SD channels. so very slight difference. I used to use Zoom always wich is a tad more grainy than 4:3. I had my PC hooked to my Sammy via the DVI and also saw a very slight difference with the VGA hookup.

So now I need to decide if I want the 'slightly' better picture and watch SD in expand mode (never use Wide as I hate the stretching), or go back to component giving me the option to use Zoom if I want and allowing me to use the DVI with my PC again.....

Anyway thanks for the help. This is THE best forum for AV info and I'm very fortunate to be a part.

DrumDude

Just to be clear, the Expand picture mode is very similiar to "Wide" - it still horizontally stretches 4:3 SD content. The difference between Expand and Wide is that expand provides 1:1 pixel mapping with no overscan, while Wide has some overscan (in other words, there is slight cropping of the image around the edges - very hard to even notice). All else being equal you would prefer 1:1 w/ no overscan. But this won't allow you to watch SD channels without stretching them - only way to do that is with "4:3" mode.

Personally I hate the streteched look as well and prefer DVI to component. My cable box, Sci Atlanta 8300HD, lets you set different picture size settings on the box itself depending on the output resolution. This enables me to leave SD on 4:3 mode and HD on either Wide (1080i channels) or Expand (720p channels). It's a little complicated and likely won't work on your setup w/o the same STB. But I prefer 4:3 for SD.

JoeSchueller

05-22-06, 09:36 AM

Well, the saga will hopefully complete soon.

A new digital board cleaned up my audio issues, and the new color wheel was installed. Unfortunately, the jackass tech they sent couldn't get the new color wheel installed and working properly, so it went back to their shop.

I was then informed that the colorwheel must be properly aligned for the TV to work and that was the problem. No mention of a jumper. Sounds like BS to me. If the thing mounts in fine, then it should just be a software thing to get it in sync with the picture. Anyway... $851 later, I should have my set back tomorrow. Luckily, it looks like AMEX will cover the repair under buyer's assurance - whew!

If you are still under Samsung warranty with your set, I'd consider giving them a call and asking about the color wheel for your manufacture date. If you don't have the air bearing yet, I'd consider getting it replaced while it is still on their dime.

RaceTripper

05-22-06, 10:46 AM

I was then informed that the colorwheel must be properly aligned for the TV to work and that was the problem. No mention of a jumper. Sounds like BS to me. If the thing mounts in fine, then.
Color wheel timing is a software adjustment done in the service menu.

JoeSchueller

05-22-06, 10:48 AM

Color wheel timing is a software adjustment done in the service menu.

That's totally what I thought. The dude they sent out was just incompetent.

RaceTripper

05-22-06, 10:58 AM

That's totally what I thought. The dude they sent out was just incompetent.Didn't you say he didn't want to call Samsung while he was at your place? That's really dumb. Samsung service techs have a special number for field support. My tech has called it before.

EricScott

05-22-06, 11:47 AM

If you are still under Samsung warranty with your set, I'd consider giving them a call and asking about the color wheel for your manufacture date. If you don't have the air bearing yet, I'd consider getting it replaced while it is still on their dime.

My HLP5063 was in one of the first shipments (June '04) - I think I literally was #1 or #2 on the TVA PowerBuy. Had my light engine replaced about 4 months after buying the set (maybe in October of '04 or so) for the three blinking lights problem (think only the ballast needed changing but I convinced the tech to give me a new LE). Any guess as to whether or not I have the newer colorwheel?

My Sammy warranty is up but I have a Repairmaster 4 year EW.

Bruce Fan

05-22-06, 12:47 PM

The jumper is not BS. When I had my ball bearing wheel replaced for an air bearing unit they picture was all screwed up. The tech didn't know what to do so I looked over the packaging and saw a reference to a jumper. I pointed it out and we tried it. Magic ... it was perfect again. I don't recall what the proper placement is but it was on the package. Check that if you have it...good luck.

JoeSchueller

05-23-06, 08:46 AM

Bruce, I don't doubt you in the least. I'm just saying what this craphole shop is telling me.

I'm trying to figure out how big of a stink to make w/ Samsung over this whole thing. It started with the product sucking only 6 mo's out of warranty... then moved on to them telling me about issuing a service notice about air bearings (that I never got, despite being registered) and then send me to this incompetent shop unable to actually perform the repair in a timely manner at a cost of $851!!!

I've quickly gone from a Samsung fan - who has had friends & family buy Sammy DLP's based on my reco - to a Samsung hater who will advocate for anything but. Nearly $3K TV's requiring $851 repairs within the first 2 years doesn't scream of quality and customer service to me.

Bruce Fan

05-23-06, 10:20 AM

I hear ya.

I never received a notice either however I had mine replaced (ball to air) a couple months after purchasing the TV. I also noticed it getting a little whiny again so I had it replaced (air to air) just before my 15 month warranty ended.

Aside from this I've had no problems. Good luck!

smithre4

05-24-06, 02:38 PM

JoeSchueller

05-24-06, 02:44 PM

brobinson

05-24-06, 04:41 PM

I just got my 50" HLP from Sound Track in Denver and also have very obvious smudges on both sides of the screen. After several hours they eventually went away. I will wait a while to see if they continue to reappear and how long it takes for them to go away each time. My question is whether or not it is worth exchanging the set or is this something that will most likely be on all the units (i.e. Xzerion's case). Are most people just living with this or are there units out there that do not have this issue? I think I can live with it since it seems like you can only see it in a small percentage of scenes that are being displayed. By the way Sound Track in Denver matched the PB price!
Good afternoon. I am having the same smudges appear on the left and right side of my screen. If I press on the screen itself, they disappear. I believe it is because there is agap between the two screens inside. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix permanently?

Thanks

Iceblade

05-24-06, 04:59 PM

brobinson,

Yes, you call Samsung and report the problem. If you are lucky, you are still under warranty and get the screen replaced OR you get a CSR that will extend your warranty to get it replaced OR you get a CSR that will talk to his manager who will tell him to call the home office in New Jersey to get an authorization to allow you to get your warranty extended to get your screen replaced. *pant pant* :)

Wow, that was a long sentence. Anyway.. it's either screen replacement or deal with it for the life of the set.

Regs,
Jeff

smithre4

05-24-06, 05:25 PM

It sounds odd, but could your TV be somehow starting up in "Dynamic" mode then kicking back down into standard or cinema?

I can't see how it is possible that this phenomena happens in the day but not in the night. A noticable dimming during the day, should be even more visible in a darkened setting. Is it EVERY time during the day, or just occasional?

92 is a VERY high contrast setting. Mine is in the 50's on most inputs (including HDMI).
Hey Joe,

Yes it is every time I turn on the TV. I think it's more noticeable in the day time because my room is very bright during that time period (4 windows, plus transoms). It is a matter of 30-60s where you will see the TV go dimmer. It happens on other inputs too (Component, noticed it with my X360 today).

I forget why I had contrast that high; I'll have to go back through re-calibration and I see why I chose that value.

smithre4

05-25-06, 09:44 AM

Something else I found, Joe.

When I went back to look at my settings, I found that each input had been reset back to the defaults (standard with the default settings). This hasn't resolved the issue, but I found it weird that they got reset. I even went as far as configuring them again, turning off the TV (left it off for about 5 minutes) and turned it back on; settings were not reset again; so I'm not sure how that even happened.

Ross

JoeSchueller

05-25-06, 09:47 AM

Did you go into the svc menu? Any time I go in to the svc menu, all my user settings are reset to torch levels.

smithre4

05-25-06, 09:55 AM

Did you go into the svc menu? Any time I go in to the svc menu, all my user settings are reset to torch levels.

Yeah I just thought of that after posting. I went into SM to see what my bulb life was. Since I hadn't been in that menu in over a year, I had forgotten about that quirk.

Ross

brobinson

05-25-06, 10:33 AM

Iceblade

05-25-06, 10:50 AM

Thanks for the info Iceblade, is this a common problem? Is this something I will have to deal with forever (replacing screens)? Do they make screens that are not simply taped together?

Brent

Heheh... you could say that. Check out this thread for hours of enjoyment. The short answer is, yes... Samsung knows about it. Yes, there is a fix. And from what I recall, no one who has had the screen replaced has since seen the "smudges" return.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=476437&highlight=smudges

Regs,
Jeff

jabbawabba

06-25-06, 05:04 PM

EricScott

06-25-06, 05:20 PM

I tried looking through this thread, so sorry if this is a repeat....

Has anybody found a solution (other than replacing the digital board and upgrading the firmware) so that you can go directly to the HDMI input with IR codes (discrete). For example, i use a harmony remote and I can't go directly to the HDMI input, I have to go to DVI and then press TV/Video to switch the input.

IR codes work with every other input. Basically, not a big deal, just an annoyance.

If replacing the board is the only way, how successful are these repairs? and am I looking into more problems being caused by the repair. I'm also going to need to fix the smudge problem so I figured I could get everything done at once.

Only way to get the direct HDMI discrete is w/ new firmware and only way to upgrade the firmware is change out the digital board. It's a harmless and very easy process for the tech. I did exactly what you are suggesting - combined that repair w/ getting the screen replaced to fix the smudge problem. Entire repair took about 20 mins and no negative side effects.

jabbawabba

06-25-06, 10:27 PM

EricScott

06-25-06, 11:15 PM

Thanks.

What was the reason that you said you needed your board replaced? I can't imagine that it would be easy to get them to fix it under warranty just because I want to use my Harmony remote :) Suggestions?

I have the best buy (gasp!) protection program, so it should be fun convincing them that it needs to be done.

I had mine fixed under the Samsung warranty and just told them I wanted the discrete codes to work properly. I mentioned that it is a "supported" feature in their marketing docs and it should work properly. Really didn't take much convincing.

setebos

07-16-06, 03:49 PM

hey i have a hlp6163 and had trouble with my harmony 880 recognizing the hdmi input. i called harmony tech support twice the first time
no one knew what i was talking about. the second time eventually got transfered to second level support and they fixed the problem with a work around. in order to use the harmony remote to go to hdmi they programmed it on their end and sent me the configuration update.

tell them to do this

when hdmi is required , first go to (dvi input) then have it perform the (input next) command. i do not know how they actually configured it to do it but it works.
the only time it doesnt work is if the signal to the hdmi is not on. such as dvd player is not on yet then it just leaves it on dvi. but you can use the help button on the harmony remote to fix it. hope that helps.

RaceTripper

07-16-06, 04:38 PM

hey i have a hlp6163 and had trouble with my harmony 880 recognizing the hdmi input....
when hdmi is required , first go to (dvi input) then have it perform the (input next) command. i do not know how they actually configured it to do it but it works.
the only time it doesnt work is if the signal to the hdmi is not on. such as dvd player is not on yet then it just leaves it on dvi. but you can use the help button on the harmony remote to fix it. hope that helps.
You should get Samsung to replace your digital board under warranty, and then the HDMI discrete code should work like it's supposed to. That's what I did when I got a HDMI device.

elove

07-21-06, 11:58 AM

For those who have the Samsung HLP 5063, what settings are you using for:
Contrast
Brightness
Sharpness
Color
tint
mode
etc

Thanks!

Herby

07-21-06, 06:29 PM

I finally got around to getting my screen changed, for the smudges. I have a month left on my warranty. I also reported to Sammy a problem I had a few days ago with the lamp light blinking for 10 min without a picture coming on. I unplugged the TV and plugged it back in and I got a picture again. My lamp has 6069 hrs.. The techs ordered the screen and said I should get a call in about seven days and they are going to change the bulb, too.

My question is should I get the upgraded board with the upgraded firmware and air color wheel. I know I don't have the new firmware but I don't know if I have the new color wheel. In addition, how about my Light engine. Since the tech is already going to come out to do some work I thought it might be good to get this all done. The TV has been great and has not given me any problems, except for the smudges.

I have an HLP-5063w. How necessary are all these upgrades? Is it only to be able to use discrete codes. Do they make a difference in PQ? How difficult will it be to get this ALL done under Sammy warranty?

Thanks in advance

Cush1978

07-21-06, 09:42 PM

You should definitely get the firmware. If you decide to use a remote that uses discrete codes down the line, you will need the upgraded firmware to switch to the HDMI input and possibly the antenna input. It doesn't "only" use discrete codes. A discrete code is a specific IR code for a specific function. Instead of the "power on/off" button in the Samsung remote, there is a discrete code for "power on" and another for "power off". I doubt you'll get a color wheel or a light engine unless you can find a problem that requires replacement.

You won't see a difference in PQ with a firmware change, but all your settings will be reset to defaults. I found that I had to recalibrate when I switched firmware; my custom settings weren't optimal any more.

Cush

Herby

07-21-06, 09:50 PM

Thanks for the reply
I am going to try and see if they can install a new board. I figured I needed some serious issues for the other items to be replaced.

bd13

07-22-06, 06:12 PM

My HLP 5063 turns off by itself after an hour to an hour and half of use. It turns off and then it powers right back on afterwards. Dont know if its getting too hot or what but since it turns back on and doesnt do it again im not sure. Any thoughts?

Wingfan191

07-23-06, 03:55 AM

Ok, so I searched this thread and noticed the issues with over scan on the HLP's (I have a HLP5065) but I've noticed that it's a lot more than I originally thought. When watching high def TV shows, it's being cut off on all 4 sides by quite a bit and it's kind of annoying. I've centered the picture as best I can with the x and y coordinates in the service menu, but I'm missing out on more than I think I should be. There is no way to correct this at all???

Also, all my 4:3 shows are off center now. They're all shifted to the right and this only started happening about 2 months ago. I thought it was just the cable box, but I've tried different boxes and it still does it. I know the pixel ratio is the same on both sides because when I switch to high def programming, it's centered just fine (albeit with the overscan I mentioned above). I've literally counted the number of times I've had to move it left or right before the image hits the side of the screen and leaves a black line, it's usually like 26 clicks each way, so I balance it and say 13 pixels get cut off on each side (just an estimate, I can't remember the real totals).

Does anyone know what's going on with the offcenter 4:3 and giant overscan issues? Is my TV just broken or what?

EDIT - Alright, so I decided to switch the inputs from the cable box and my video game system selector (both using component), and noticed that when I plugged the cable box into my Component 1, there was no more shifting of the 4:3 and everything was fine. However, when I put my video game selector into component 2, my xbox 360 dash board was waaay over to the right, being cut off by a good 25%. I tried moving it over to the left, but it actually stopped short at 0. There was still a good 4 to 5 inches of black on the left hand side. I think my component 2 input is broken. What could damage that specific input to where it would actually cut off that much of the picture and not allow me to shift it to the left hand side? The 360 was in 720p mode if that matters.

Bruce Fan

07-24-06, 08:51 AM

Wingfan191

07-26-06, 01:28 AM

Wingfan191 - I had the same problem with my HLP4663. My component 2 input was off to the left significantly (a good couple of inches) but all other inputs were fine. There is no way to shift the image of a single input as it moves them all so Samsung opted to replace my video board which fixed the problem.

Good luck!
Great, I figured as much. Seeing as how when I first got the TV in 04, I never had these problems. Grrrr, I wonder if it's worth buying a new one? I really want to get a SED TV, but I don't know how much they run or when they come out. I dont' want to wait another year with this broken input and since my warrenty is up, it'll probably cost a lot to fix, so I might as well just spend the extra money and get a new DLP.

entermymatrix

07-26-06, 08:35 AM

i have my 360 hooked up through VGA. i get less that 3% overscan and it still drives me crazy. can someone please tell me the best way to fix this. its really noticable in Ghost Recon, and i play that game a ton! i've done auto adjust and played with moving the screen around in the regular menu. i play in expand mode becuase regular mode with no overscan is in a box with a black boarder around it. what do you guys think?

GDWindowpane

07-26-06, 07:04 PM

Quick question, I think the color wheel was making the noise everyone was talking about. I have an HLP6163. Sears came out today and told the wife that they were going to replace the light engine and bulb (I was at work and couldn't talk to the tech). I take it the color wheel is part of the light engine?

Parts are listed at $1,992.88 for both lamp and light engine and labor is $212.00 for a total of $2,204.86. For once I'm glad we got the protection agreement.

Another quick question, will I see any improvements with the new lamp/light engine? Not sure how many hours I have on the original lamp but I'm sure it's up there.

Thanks!!!

Chris

"If the telephone doesn't ring, it's me..."

GDWindowpane

07-26-06, 08:05 PM

Hope I didn't screw something up...

Went into the service menu to see how many hours I have on my lamp (6,342) and didn't know how to go back to the main menu (now know you hit the "menu" button). Went to the check sum menu and pressed the left directional arrow hoping it would take me back to the main menu. No dice. It went into some "Check Sum" process and asked me to wait. It then came back with a check sum of EF75. It was previously set to 0000 which is why I chose this setting to try and get back to the main menu.

Turned tv off and then back on (after 30+seconds) and everything seems to be fine except when I went back to reprogram my picture settings I no long can change the tint, it's grayed out.

So sorry in advance for the long post but does anyone know what the check sum value is all about?

Thanks!!!

Chris

"How can I miss you when you won't go away?"

phace

07-27-06, 02:38 PM

I'm new to the forum and it's my first post, but you guys seem to know what is going on...

I've had my HLP5063W for over a year so I my warranty is gone. All of the sudden I will be watching TV and it just shuts off. The lamp light flashes, I wait a second or two, and it turns on again. This did happen more infrequently, but now it won't stay on for more than 20 minutes.

Also, there is no blue color in the picture. Things that should be blue are now green.

Any thought or help would be much appreicated.

JoeSchueller

07-27-06, 09:06 PM

Chalk up another faulty board!!! I'll be on #3 when this one gets replaced. The first was replaced due to faulty sound on any analog input. This one will now probably have to be replaced due to color issues on all standard analog inputs (no problem on HDMI or Component). What is happening is that the blue is completely washed out. Popped in a DVD (s-video input) and the green screen before a preview was bright yellow and the blue was extremely muted in all scenes. Went into the menu to check settings, and instead of the normal blue, the menu was grey. On HDMI or Component inputs, the menus are the normal blue and picture looks great. I would bet a paycheck it is a digital board problem again. Ironically, replacing the digital board was what fixed the previous analog audio problem - STRANGE!

I'm wondering if I can't talk AMEX into a replacement at this point. Two digital boards in two months has to be a bit of a concern. Anyone else crankin' thru the digital boards like this? At $341 a pop, I'm not looking for this to be a replacement part!

supershawn

08-02-06, 08:21 PM

When my Samsung HLP 61" DLP (search my username for details) went through several boards in the first week or two of ownership, I pretty much swore off buying another Sammy product. Well, thinking they had all the issues worked out, I bought a HL-S4266W for my new house. The 61 was too big for the TV nook, the 42 was perfect. Well, for a day and a half anyway. It popped and won't power up. I could not have had more than 5-6 hours on it. Its currently sitting on the floor in the corner waiting to see if the "six hour unplugged" trick will bring it back to life. I doubt I will keep it. And I promise I will never, ever, ever, ever even consider buying another Samsung again.

supershawn

08-02-06, 08:24 PM

"Actively complaining since 1973 ;-)"

I think I was complaining back in '73 as well....of course, I was not a year old yet... :P

JoeSchueller

08-03-06, 08:31 AM

Shawn, neither was I. ;-)

I did call Samsung on this one and explained how unhappy I am with a nearly $3000 TV requiring 3 repairs in the first 2 years (screen replacement, color wheel + dig. board, and another dig board). Estimating this replacement at $500, I'm up to nearly $1400 in repairs, if I just get to change a bulb, I'll have an additional 50% of the purchase price sunk back into the TV. Fortunately for me, AMEX buyers assurance is covering me, but that runs out this month. I explained this situation to a very nice Samsung rep named Mike, who opened an "executive support case file" for me and indicated that they often extend warranties or cover repairs. While that would be nice, I'm still extremely concerned what will go wrong next. If Samsung really wants to keep me as a customer (and recommender), I'm hoping there's a 50 or 56" HLS upgrade in this for me. I'm willing to pay some small fee for the depreciation on my set, but this is ridiculous. Besides, the 56" can now be had for nearly the price I've sunk in repairs!

Now, I'm not holding my breath or anything, and I'm just glad I have AMEX to fall back on (this time).

longtimewolf

08-09-06, 01:41 PM

Anyone know how to disable the power toggle button on the front of the HLP's?

I have a 1 year old that loves to push the button and it is getting troublesome.

ReggieGotShot

08-14-06, 08:20 PM

Perhaps this has already been answered but i'm curious as to how to fix this issue... i have a HLP4663 and out of the blue i seem to have a dark spot on the right edge of the screen...what gives?

img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn1477ko8.jpg

elove

08-26-06, 11:32 AM

I have had my HLP 5063 for two years. I had one bulb replaced in the first six months, the screen replaced for the smuges, and now it appears, I will need another bulb or light engine. Turned the TV on last night and it made a big loud popping noise, it sounded like the bulb was trying to start up, but it just kept popping.

Luckly, I brought the extended warrenty from Circuit City. Talk about bad timing, Football Season is just around the corner .

elove

08-26-06, 11:37 AM

Genus

08-27-06, 10:10 AM

On each side of the back of the tv, there are 6" circular panels. It seems like there's some kind of "lever" to open them, but I can't figure out how it works.

Assuming they are access panels, does anyone know how to open them? - I have an ant (yes, an ant -no typo) crawling around on the inside of my screen. Its kinda bugging me :)

Thanks

RickHolc

11-20-06, 01:12 AM

I would like an answer to this question also...
Anyone have instructions on opening the back of these units? (HLP-5063w in my case)

Paul^G1138

11-20-06, 02:07 PM

I apologize in advance if this has already been addressed, but I couldn't find it in my searches.
I have a Samsung HL-P5063W. It's about a year & half old. Lots of viewing time. The last month or so I've noticed that my screen will just go black, the whole thing, like it just turns off. I still have audio of course, but no picture. Usually it will last between 5 to 10seconds. It doesn't do it often, but it's enough to worry me. It does it while viewing cable or DVD so I know it's not a signal loss thing.
Could it be my bulb???
Any help would be appreciated.
Oh and just yesterday, I got a bunch of yellow lines all across my screen. It lasted for about 10sec, I was watching a DVD so I figured it could just be I need to clean the laser, but I'm wondering if it has any connection to the random black-outs.

Thanks,

Paul G

rshaw

11-27-06, 05:35 PM

I have a 46" HLP about two years old. I recently noticed that the picture from my DCT5100 cable box wasn't completely fill out the screen. I was using the DVI connection at 720p from the cable box. I hadn't changed any settings, and don't believe anyone else had; DVDs and SD cable were fine. I exchanged the cable box but had the same problem, picture not completing filling the screen, about a 1" space around the HD image. I never noticed this before. I changed the cable box setting to 1080i and the picture now fills the screen completely, is even a little larger then the screen area. Does anyone know if there is a service adjustment in the Sammy to adjust screen size? I would like to use 720p (the native resolution) and have the picture size match the screen size.

marshcat

12-10-06, 11:28 AM

UGGG

Moving parts in a TV bring across so many problems!

I wish that there was a better way

JoeSchueller

12-10-06, 05:27 PM

It is called SED, and it is several years (if ever) away.

If you want to reduce moving parts, consider LED or laser light engines, but be prepared to go in to a time capsule for a few years before they hit the mainstream market. In the meantime, enjoy your HLP ;-)

Cyrk

12-21-06, 04:56 PM

I too would love to know this...

Anyone know how to disable the power toggle button on the front of the HLP's?

I have a 1 year old that loves to push the button and it is getting troublesome.

longtimewolf

12-21-06, 09:43 PM

You can add my 2.5 year old and 1.5 year old to that list as well.

If anyone knows how to disable this button that should increase the kids life expectancy greatly.

frankx99

12-28-06, 08:18 AM

I had a problem with The HDMI port going out to a Comcast Cable Box. I assumed the problem was with the box, so I started using component and all was well. Then I tried DVI to the Cable Box and that was also OK.

Yesterday I set-up a brand new Toshiba HD-A2 and could get no signal from the HDMI port whatsoever. I ended up using the DVI port with the HDMI adapter.

Has anyone experienced the HDMI port malfunctioning, if so how was it resolved?
If it is a hardware issue what part would need to be replaced.

Any help will be appreciated.

thank you

bentdavi

12-28-06, 04:11 PM

RaceTripper

12-28-06, 05:40 PM

Samsung service is garbage, I have a 2300$ TV purchased 18 month ago , and I am ready to give it to goodwill.
I have not been able to find a repair man around Phoenix area, and when I finaly did, he asked for $ 900 to repair it. and that was not sure that would be it, this was only a minimum estimate.

So As far as I am concerned, Samsung is JUNKDid you try calling the Samsung Digital Services group? They have been extraordinary with me, even replacing a TV completely after the warranty expired. Otherwise, my replacement (a HLP6163W) has been great. They upgraded the digital board for me when I got a HDMI device and the discrete codes wouldn't work, but otherwise it has worked flawlessly.

JoeSchueller

12-28-06, 08:39 PM

Agree on the call to Sammy's service. Be sure to let them know you participate in the forum and will be a vocal Samsung endorser or critic if you're experience is as bad as you describe.

Badbenz94

12-29-06, 12:26 PM

Do you have a # for Samsungs Digital Service Group? I ask because my TV is out of warantee and for reasons unknown to me, I just started noticing the sticking screen that only goes away after touching it after it warms up but comes back everytime the tv is shut down. Thanks!!
Chris

RaceTripper

12-29-06, 12:30 PM

JoeSchueller

12-30-06, 01:43 PM

It sucks, but I got to them by asking the front-line guy on the standard Samsung cust. service line to open a ticket with them. Politely explain the situation and ask them to open a ticket number for you. That ensures they have your info before you even get on the line w/ them. I know it seems quicker to just call them direct, but I think you'll get a bit of a runaround. YMMV.

andersa

12-31-06, 12:38 PM

OrangeKid

12-31-06, 02:40 PM

Hi Frank,

any progress? I've been thinking about getting an A2 as well and would like to use the HDMI input on my HLP5063 for it.

BTW, has anyone used the HDMI input on the HLP series with a PS3?

/Anders

I have a Samsung HLP5063W with a S3 Tivo connected to the DVI input and a Toshiba HD-A2 connected to the HDMI input. Both inputs work perfectly. Previously to the S3 Tivo I had an SA 8300 HD box connected to the DVI input and it worked perfectly.

andersa

12-31-06, 05:35 PM

I have a Samsung HLP5063W with a S3 Tivo connected to the DVI input and a Toshiba HD-A2 connected to the HDMI input. Both inputs work perfectly. Previously to the S3 Tivo I had an SA 8300 HD box connected to the DVI input and it worked perfectly.

Thanks OrangeKid,

good to know it is not a general problem with the A2 and HDMI.

/Anders

OrangeKid

12-31-06, 05:46 PM

Thanks OrangeKid,

good to know it is not a general problem with the A2 and HDMI.

/Anders

However in the Toshiba HD-A2 forums there have been numerous reports of the A2 downrezing to 480p when connected to a DVI input. So connect your A2 to HDMI and your cable box to the DVI input.

Fredster

12-31-06, 06:04 PM

BTW, has anyone used the HDMI input on the HLP series with a PS3?

/Anders

Yes, no issues w/PS3 and HDMI with an HLP6163W.

JoeSchueller

01-01-07, 09:24 AM

I've had a HR10-250 hooked to my HDMI port for the last 18 mo's with little to no problems. Very rarely, the entire screen will go green, but I believe that's a problem with the crummy HDMI hardware and implementation on the HR10, not my HLP.

Cyrk

01-02-07, 11:08 AM

I am getting my 6163W ISF calibrate next week. :)

I have one question. When you access the service menu it resets back to the default settings... how do you get it to save any of the other changes that you have made, other than writing down what they were before you access the Service Menu?

Thanks,
Dave

grendelrt

01-02-07, 11:36 AM

Has anyone tried sending 480P from a PS3 over HDMI. My PS3 works great, except the picture gets scrambled when i send a 480 signal (PS2 game or Blu Ray). I hooked it up via Component and tried a PS2 game after that and it worked fine.

Fredster

01-02-07, 12:08 PM

grendelrt

01-02-07, 12:39 PM

Yes, no issues w/PS3 and 480P to HDMI with an HLP6163W.

Damn I wonder what it is then. Guess 3 things it could be. PS3, cable or the HDMI port on my TV. Everything about 480P works fine though.

alwilli

01-03-07, 02:00 PM

I have had my HLP5063 almost 2 years now. It is not my main tv so I just recently noticed that my picture really looks out of focus. I knew that the HD3 chip was said to be "soft" but I am wondering if I need a service call. Can someone please comment on how clear HD text and video/film content looks. I looked closely at the screen and the "smooth" pixel strucure looks blurry to me. I recently had my eyes checked so it's not that. I have Comcast cable Moto 6412 via DVI @720p and sometimes 1080i and my HD is less than stellar. Owners and observers please comment. Thanks.

Alvin

JoeSchueller

01-03-07, 02:19 PM

Alvin, There are so many variables at play, it would be hard to just say you have a TV requiring service. Just over my one HD input (a D* HR10-250 via HDMI) I see WIDE variance in the quality of content. Some of D*'s HD-lite can look sharp and fantastic while some pristine OTA can look blurry and crummy. (note, I said SOME, the majority of sharp content does come in OTA). It completely depends on how well produced the original content began, how badly the broadcaster mangled it, how well your STB deals with it, and how well your TV displays it. Have you hooked an alternate display to your Motorola box? Have you tried other HD sources? Service can be a pricey pain in the butt. If you have any other way to isolate the performance of the display alone, I'd recommend it.

alwilli

01-03-07, 03:49 PM

Thanks for your response. I have an extended warranty from BB so the financial aspect is not an issue. I do understand that it will be a pain to get service by just saying "my picture does not look good". And if I do get service it may result in "we can't find anything wrong". I have a Toshiba HD RP CRT and Infocus SP 4800 that I have connected the cable box to and not noticed any PQ issues. My Toshiba has been calibrated by a well known professional so it has a nice pic. I have also been looking at how crisp the 1080p sets look. Again too many variables and comparisons. But I have already isolated it to the tv. I would not describe any of my HD content as sharp , pristine, or fantastic on the HLP. That is why I think my set may have a problem. I am just wondering if my expectations are too high.

Alvin

JoeSchueller

01-03-07, 03:57 PM

Alvin, sorry if my last post came across as condescending or too basic. I wasn't sure where you were starting from.

I only have an HLP in my home, but I have been out looking at 1080p sets and smaller screen flat-panels, and it is easy for me to say my HLP is softer than those sets. Perhaps not dramatically so, but certainly softer. I'd call it more film-like than the digital "pop" you get out of some other sets. It suits my needs (particularly at the "already paid for" price), but I could see where it loses in comparisons to newer sets.

One thought before calling service may be to go in to the service menu and pulling up some of the internal test patterns. There are a few that may let you decide if your TV needs a focus adjustment.

Good luck. I think a lot of us our suffering "mid-point adopter's remorse" with our HLP's now that 1080p set's and quality 50" plasma's have fallen into that $2500-$3000 pricepoint, but I certainly wouldn't give up the 2.5 years of enjoyment I've had w/ my HLP (despite a few service headaches).

GStep

01-03-07, 07:57 PM

[QUOTE=alwilli]I have had my HLP5063 almost 2 years now. It is not my main tv so I just recently noticed that my picture really looks out of focus. I knew that the HD3 chip was said to be "soft" but I am wondering if I need a service call. Can someone please comment on how clear HD text and video/film content looks. I looked closely at the screen and the "smooth" pixel strucure looks blurry to me. I recently had my eyes checked so it's not that. I have Comcast cable Moto 6412 via DVI @720p and sometimes 1080i and my HD is less than stellar. Owners and observers please comment. Thanks.

i've had this unit for about the same amount of time. i have direct tv hd. the hd pic is absolutely amazing. watching this set in sd is one of the worst pics if ever seen on a tv. my old 32" ge...yes ge...sets have a better picture in sd than my samsung.

GStep

01-03-07, 08:19 PM

new to the forum & this thread. need imput for this hdtv.

background...

have direct tv
use a direct tv hd dvr as reception box.
hd reception/picture quality is awesome!!!
hdmi connection used

here's the problem. when viewing non hd broadcasts (sd) the picture quality is horrible. example. if watching a football game you look at the top header where the score/time clock is located...the score/time clock is barely readable. the playing of the game is extremely "warbally" but when a close up of a player is shown the picture seems to clear. now, i know that there is a huge difference between hd & sd broadcast/reception but so drastically so ...i'm not so sure. if i go to one of my other old tube tvs, as i stated in a previous thead entry, the picture is far greater than that on my hdtv. any guidance/manipulation of tv settings would be GREATLY....GREATLY appreciated.

JoeSchueller

01-04-07, 10:08 AM

GStep

01-04-07, 09:37 PM

ramblin390

01-15-07, 06:25 PM

crossbeaux

01-15-07, 06:58 PM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I searched the forum quite well, and can't seem to find the answer. My lamp just went, and I ordered a new one. How do I access the area to check how many hours the bulb lasted, and how do I reset it. I talked to a tech and he said it's top secret, I could kill my tv if I had the codes or access. So much for democracy .

Thanks, Jeff
Well, this will tell you how to get into the service menu and you should find the lamp life field there. But I haven't done this, and there was mention in some posts about how doing this resets fields, so you might want to write down settings first.

How to get to the service menu (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6972827&highlight=service+menu#post6972827)

JoeSchueller

01-15-07, 07:01 PM

Your tech is a crook...

Write down your brightness/contrast/color settings before doing so, but then go in to the svc menu by following the well-documented steps found multiple times in the forum and this thread:

Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power

Badbenz94

02-05-07, 11:09 AM

Do these tvs have to be on a level surface? My Sammy is on my mantel and would like to angle it down for better viewing angle and didnt know if that would have any effects on the internal mechanics. Thanks!!

Chris

tblankenship

02-05-07, 11:19 AM

I've angled mine a few degrees. It's been 2 years now with no ill effects as far as I can tell. Of course, be careful that it will not tip over.

slikkrock

03-09-07, 03:58 PM

timclark

03-09-07, 05:21 PM

With regard to previous discussions about UPS systems and Automatic Voltage Regulation, does anyone have any recommendations? What about Tripp Lite products?

All of a sudden my television is shutting down and I'm a little worried.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Is it loss of power causing the set to shut down? Ie do you stil hear the fan running after the shuts down? Could be you are getting near the end of the bulb life too. My set did all kinds of weird stuff right before the picture started getting dim and then it was all over till a new bulb was installed.

Lampei

03-09-07, 11:42 PM

I've been pretty happy with my Belkin battery backup (PureAV AP 30800-10 http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=195291). I had to send the first one back as it wasn't flipping over to the battery when the power went out, but the 2nd one's been running quite well. Plus it has cable in/out, 8 outlets, RJ-45, cat-5, and $100K warranty. You can usually find a good deal (50% off Belkin) by doing a google search.

Bob_Williamson

03-10-07, 07:47 PM

D* customers:

Be sure to note that D* compresses the heck out of SD. That wonderful D* "digital clarity" looks like garbage on our larger HD sets. Compare OTA SD vs. D* SD and you will see a world of difference.

Algolith makes units which is supposed to help with some of this compression problems. I have yet to see one work but it looks like it should be good from the pictures. Given the cost of the Algolith units, however, it may be cheaper to go with another provider.

Bob

alwilli

03-15-07, 09:34 AM

Is there a focus adjustment on these models?

Alvin

J GURROLA

03-16-07, 10:12 AM

any one using their set with a ps3? I have an HLP5085 and wondering if the set will be able to show movies in 720p

avhound

04-18-07, 07:36 PM

I have had my HLP6163W for about 32 months and other than having to replace the bulb early this year everything has been great. Until this past Sunday, when I noticed that I could not receive any HD channels - or any channels at all via the DVI input that comes directly from my cable box.

My other input is a component cable from a Tivo series 2, and that's fine. So I tried a couple of things: I swapped out the DVI cable from the cable box for a component cable - still no luck. Then I connected the cable box to another HDTV via the DVI cable and it worked fine.

So I can't seem to figure out the root cause of this problem. I want to believe that it's some kind of signal issue coming out of the cable box, but the other HDTV - a cheap 26" LCD - handles it just fine. Has anyone else heard of this type of problem. Does anyone have any suggestions?

JoeSchueller

04-19-07, 12:54 AM

Sounds frighteningly like a bad digital board. My HLP is on it's 2nd one.

avhound

04-19-07, 04:30 AM

Thanks for the quick response, Joe. I am, of course, out of warrenty - yeah, I rolled the dice - so I'm afraid to ask: about how much would the digital board and service call cost?

Fredster

04-19-07, 04:57 PM

The board is about $350. Service, I don't know the going rate.

avhound

04-21-07, 03:10 PM

Thanks for the information, Fred. I'll find out about service rates soon enough - I called Samsung today and they told me that "it sounds like the problem is with the TV" and that I should call a local company called Telefix (in Herndon, Virginia). If anyone on this thread has any experience with Telefix I'd sure like to hear about it. I will post about my experience with them.

RaceTripper

05-03-07, 08:44 PM

WARNING: Commercial POST (for the benefit of all Samsung Owners)...Isn't spamming threads against forum rules?

avhound

06-01-07, 04:37 PM

Folks, I finally got my new Digital Board installed in the HLP6163W yesterday afternoon. The bad news is that while it appeared to restore the ability to view high definition content, it will not display content via the DVI interface. When I first connected the DVI cable from the HD cable box and switched to that input, a message appeared on the screen in a vertical blue box on top of crystal clear HD programming that said something like:

High Definition content cannot be displayed because the proper copy protection is not in place

(That's not the exact text, which went away after a while, but that was the gist of it). The repair guy claimed that it had nothing to do with the DVI board not working and that this was caused by the cable box and he recommended that I use component cables. When we hooked up the component cables everything looked as good as new. Of course, it bothers me that I can't get a "pure digital" connection by using DVI.

Does anyone know anything about this type of HDCP (I presume) warning/will not display message? My next move is to call Comcast, and I'm dreading that.

JoeSchueller

06-01-07, 04:41 PM

First of all... the tech is an a-hole for telling you to go to component. At least in theory, digital is superior.

HDCP involves a handshake process between the TV and the cable STB. My guess would be that switching out the digi board on the TV, caused the STB to think it was hooked to something else and needed to re-sync. Has the problem returned since?

If not, it was a one-time handshake thing and resolved. If it hasn't resolved, try rebooting the STB so that it has to re-handshake with the TV. If neither of these work, I'd get ready to go thru the pain of the call to the cable co (who will sit there and tell you it is the TV's fault). At a minimum, make sure they do a "full reset" on your STB before you blame the TV.

Good luck.

avhound

06-01-07, 05:23 PM

Thanks for your prompt response and helpful advice, as usual, Joe. I did power the cable STB off and on several times to no avail. After the initial message the DVI input has been completely black. At this point I will call Comcast.

grandmasterc

06-17-07, 06:21 PM

I have a HLN-507W that I have owned 3.5-4 years, and it is making a horrible noise that many here have described as being a problematic color wheel. At first I thought it was a cooling fan, so I removed both of the back panels and after "testing" them, determined that they are not the issue.

I really didn't know what the problem could be after that so I surfed on over to AVS for some answers. After researching the issue here for a while and finding that my set has all the symptoms of a bad color wheel (screeching noise only when on, etc.) I have diagnosed this as the problem.

My questions for all of you technical geniuses are:
Is this something I can do on my own?
How much does the part cost?
Where can I get the part?
What is likelihood that I will destroy something?
How much would it cost to pay someone to do it for me?

I know that I have come to the right place for answers, the AVS community is the BEST!! Thank you for help.

Carl

rickp

06-18-07, 11:12 AM

I have a Samsung HLP 5063 and noticed, on a black screen or very dark scene, faint white dots in no particular pattern. They are positioned toward the middle of the screen. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem or knows what would cause this. I have noticed that if you have alot of light in the room they are not as noticeably.

1Mark1

06-19-07, 06:04 PM

Yes ps3 will work as long as signal from ps3 is set to anything BUT 1080p. I set it to 720p.

htwaits

06-21-07, 05:50 PM

Our HLP5063 is about thirty months old now. I'm having it cleaned next week which will be the first time I've used the extended warranty. I'll let you all know what they do to and for it. :cool:

mickey RN

11-12-07, 06:39 PM

Quote:
My questions for all of you technical geniuses are:
Is this something I can do on my own?
How much does the part cost?
Where can I get the part?
What is likelihood that I will destroy something?
How much would it cost to pay someone to do it for me?
I don't know about being a genius, but, I did just replace the color wheel in my HLP. Really it was quite simple if you have any experience with working with electronics at all. There is a pretty decent pictorial how-to at http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/
One thing to be aware of and ask about is if the new color wheel is compatible with your motherboard out of the box. Mine was not, but the fix was to un-jumper a jumper on the motherboard (DMD board).
Of course my board was of such an early edition, it did not even have that jumper on it! So, I am back to square one and am waiting on a replacement light engine that is back-ordered until early December.
The price for the color wheel was < $100. And, you can find this part at several online parts company. A quick Google search should hook you up with that.
I don't know going rates for color wheel replacement but to replace the light engine, the local tv guy told me between $150-200.
Good luck