Since the first batch of people have now had their new Sammy HLPs for several days now, I'm curious to hear if anyone has tried their set with a computer input and HTPC? I've been reading all the HLP threads for the past couple of weeks and haven't seen anything yet (or maybe I just missed it?). Is so could you please post your experience, differences with the HLN sets, any odd artifacts, etc.

Anyone?

Hi, I am a significantly hearing impaired person and rely on subtitles and captions to "hear" a movie. The HLN models didn't allow TV closed captioning on anything but antanae and video1-3. Does anyone know if the HLP models, any of them, will support close captioning on DVI or Component inputs. Any answers are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
KingKroz201

Here's a link to the manual, perhaps that will help....
http://samsung.com/Support/ProductSupport/download/FileView.aspx?cttfileid=172452&type=TV&typecode=1&subtype=Projection&subtypecode=&cmssubtypecode=103&model=HL-P5063W&filetype=UM&language=#

The devices that I know of that produce component/DVI signals (DVD players etc.) all generate their own closed captions. Now I certainlly don't know about all devices, but you might not be out of luck depending upon what you are using.

One thing that does bother me is that the Samsungs (at least my model M) can't produce captions when viewing in Zoom modes :( A really bummer when watching letterbox laserdiscs.

Well guys, I have a mixed report on my new HLP5063W from TVA.

For the first hour, the picture was great! Even SD looked better than the HLN's. The scenes had better depth, I assume due to better blacks and contrast. I was one happy camper for the first hour.

Then....

I started seeing dancing red dots all over the screen. On SD was not bad, but I still saw them.

However, on HD stations it is horrible. completely unwatchable. The complete hair on people were nothing but dancing red dots and their eyes looked possessed because their we glowing red.

It did not matter which connection I used. I even connected the cable from the wall directly to the TV and still had dancing red dots.

This was my greatest fear from an internet purchase. I can't just go down to my local store and exchange it.

So, I will call TVA this morning and see what they have to say and call Samsung as well.

Maybe, I have just have a bad one.

But, the PQ was amazing before it became possessed.

You did not give your exact source, I would try a DVD before calling anyone.
Hope things work out for you.

Sincere and heartfelt condolences. On behalf of all the PB brethren, we hope your problem is a rarity and has a simple solution. Please post with any info you get from TVA and/or Samsung.

Salmoneous, for the most part you are right, however there are some older DVDs, like 1/2 of the James Bond series, that don't have them on disc and I have to rely on the TV for them. I guess I may be SOL in that regard =)

Kid somewhere with a laser pointer messing with you?

Originally posted by genietime
...I'm curious to hear if anyone has tried their set with a computer input and HTPC?
That will take a while unless we get lucky.

Lets see if putting all the Sammy HLPxxxx issues together will help people and keep us from having 10 different threads.

Originally posted by TexasAggie
Well guys, I have a mixed report on my new HLP5063W from TVA.

For the first hour, the picture was great! Even SD looked better than the HLN's. The scenes had better depth, I assume due to better blacks and contrast. I was one happy camper for the first hour.

Then....

I started seeing dancing red dots all over the screen. On SD was not bad, but I still saw them.

However, on HD stations it is horrible. completely unwatchable. The complete hair on people were nothing but dancing red dots and their eyes looked possessed because their were glowing red.

It did not matter which connection I used. I even connected the cable from the wall directly to the TV and still had dancing red dots.

This was my greatest fear from an internet purchase. I can't just go down to my local store and exchange it.

So, I will call TVA this morning and see what they have to say and call Samsung as well.

Maybe, I have just have a bad one.

But, the PQ was amazing before it became possessed.


An update on my dancing dots.

I think the cooling fan was bad from the beginning and it got too hot and fried something. On the circular information center, the "Standby/Temp" light stays lit even after the TV has been off for hours. I never heard the fan run even after I turned it off.

As far as service, both Samsung and TVA have been great!

Samsung said that they would contact me Monday to schedule an appointment for Tuesday.

TVA was even better. They said that even if Samsung repairs it that TVA would ship the first one from the next batch to me to replace this bad one.
I hope this does not make anyone mad that is waiting for one.

As I stated above, this was my greatest fear, but TVA seems to really have made an effort to make me happy.

I will post what the service tech says when he comes out. I am also planning on talking directly to Neil on Monday and will post his comments too.

Originally posted by kingkroz201
Hi, I am a significantly hearing impaired person and rely on subtitles and captions to "hear" a movie. The HLN models didn't allow TV closed captioning on anything but antanae and video1-3. Does anyone know if the HLP models, any of them, will support close captioning on DVI or Component inputs. Any answers are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
KingKroz201

Unfortunately, the CC still does work in HD component, DVI or HDMI.

If you have a cable box, you can turn it on there or when you watch DVD's you can turn on the sub-titles.

The only problem with that TexasAggie is that not all DVDs have them. For instance only one of the first nine James Bond movies actually has English subtitles. Thanks alot MGM!! Anyways, thanks for the answer. I guess the Sammys are out for me until that oversight is corrected.

Okay, well since this thread is supposed to be the master thread for the HLP...

Once I finally hooked up all of my components to my TV, I started messing around with my Xbox and 2 PS2s... however, on the PS2s I noticed a significant amount of video lag (ie, video lagging behind audio) which did not appear when I used the Xbox. I believe it's the TV, since after I saw that problem, I connected my PS2 directly to the TV (bypassing the video connections on the receiver and System Selector) and noticed the same problem. I'm led to believe that this is a result of picture processing problems with an SD signal, and upconverting it to the TV's native resolution of 720P. Because the XBox already outputs an HD signal, I did not notice any lag (or at least, I think that's the reason.) Can anyone else who has an HLP confirm this problem passing an SD signal to the TV? I've already set up an exchange for my TV (new one coming on Tuesday) so hopefully that will fix it... but I called Samsung and they told me that if it doesn't, they might send someone out to fiddle with it or something.

Tell you the truth, if my DLP arrives and the only thing that lags is the PS2 or XBox, I'll be very happy. Tivo, OTA, and some DVDs lagged bigtime, so hopefully this won't be a problem.

Out of the box, the image on any new display can run the gamut from absolute garbage to absolute perfection. Maybe you got a set put together by a hung-over line worker who didn't bother to adjust anything, or a set that was pulled off the line by a quality control person who had it calibrated by factory engineers, just to check out how they looked.

Immediately sending a set back because you don't like the OOB (Out Of the Box) picture can be wasteful, time consuming, and frustrating. Of course, if it is obviously "broke", that's a different story, but not what I'm referring to here. You would be surprised at what one can accomplish with a Digital Video Essentials disk and a little bit of time. I stress that I am not talking about Service Menu tweaks here. Just your initial set up.

No matter how bad the picture looks OOB, unless the set is damaged, the DVE disk should give you a very watchable image. It may still need some work (ISF calibration?) to set the gray scale, etcetera, but at least you won't suffer days or weeks of frustration waiting for a set to be picked up, returned, and exchanged, when there was really no need for all that in the first place!

All things being equal, I'm sure that most of us (except for the inveterate tweakers among us) would like to unpack the set, plug it in, turn it on, and immediately have a perfect image with perfect color rendition. However, a little time on this forum tells us all that such is rarely the case.

In conclusion (finally?), instead of dropping ~$3,000+ on a new micro-display, drop ~$3,025+ and add an Avia or DVE disk to your purchase. Disk calibration on initial set up is not a bad idea any way. (Repeat, if necessary, after the bulb has had some time to "settle in".) All the better to make sure that the set is really "broke", before we go sending it back! You know the old saying.....!

I'm on my third HLP5063 set because of smudges on the left and right sides of the screen that look like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=3915152&fullpage=1


My third one has the same problem and am currently trying to get in touch with a supervisor at samsung about sending me one from a different plant than my Best Buy has that is in my area. The smudges are only viewable in light scenes and colors.

Originally posted by genietime
Anybody try their new HLP with PC/HTPC yet?

I brought my notebook to Circuit City in Portland yesterday to hookup to their 50" HLP (only place in Portland that had one on display I could find). I only have a VGA jack and cheap cable, but the results were awesome. From 10 feet or so text was very readable in both Widescreen PC and 4:3 modes. It was as good as I had hoped. I'm a programmer and am reasonably confident at this point that I'll be comfortable coding on this beauty. The display unit was all they had at the store, but they did have one at their gateway store and it was delivered last night (it was near closing and this was very cool, this Circuit City store treated me great). I need to get a longer cable, but in the next few days I should have time to play and a better feel and would be happy to answer questions.

As far as service, both Samsung and TVA have been great!
Samsung said that they would contact me Monday to schedule an appointment for Tuesday.

This is why I'm going with Samsung even though other manufacturers are coming out with their DLPs.

Lets see if putting all the Sammy HLPxxxx issues together will help people and keep us from having 10 different threads.

I know I'm relatively new here, but perhaps one thread about all problems about the HLPs would be a little unwieldy? So far I guess there are about 3 or 4 different things being discussed at once, and I'm sooo easily confused! :)

Originally posted by Allez
So far I guess there are about 3 or 4 different things being discussed at once, and I'm sooo easily confused! :)
How would you deal with one subject being discussed in an endless number of threads? :)

Originally posted by royal
I brought my notebook to Circuit City in Portland yesterday to hookup to their 50" HLP (only place in Portland that had one on display I could find). I only have a VGA jack and cheap cable, but the results were awesome. From 10 feet or so text was very readable in both Widescreen PC and 4:3 modes. It was as good as I had hoped.

This is encouraging. I've been wondering how Samsung's new 2 pixels foe every mirror trick would effect PC usability. Can't wait to hear when someone gets a chance to try DVI and fire up some test patterns.

How would you deal with one subject being discussed in an endless number of threads?

Like usual: :confused:

Originally posted by Allez
Like usual: :confused:
Me too. :cool:

ANyone check for internal reflections yet?

Seems to be way too many issues with these sets for only one thread to cover them all.

At least some of those issues have already become false alarms.

TexasAggie: I just bought the 50" hlp at CC last week. I'm bringing it back because it intermittently replaces the picture with a black & white grid pattern. Since online prices are much cheaper, I'm considering ordering online instead of getting a replacement at CC, but had the same concern you did about online orders. How did your experience turn out?

Originally posted by Xzerion
I'm on my third HLP5063 set because of smudges on the left and right sides of the screen that look like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=3915152&fullpage=1


My third one has the same problem and am currently trying to get in touch with a supervisor at samsung about sending me one from a different plant than my Best Buy has that is in my area. The smudges are only viewable in light scenes and colors.

I just got my 50" HLP from Sound Track in Denver and also have very obvious smudges on both sides of the screen. After several hours they eventually went away. I will wait a while to see if they continue to reappear and how long it takes for them to go away each time. My question is whether or not it is worth exchanging the set or is this something that will most likely be on all the units (i.e. Xzerion's case). Are most people just living with this or are there units out there that do not have this issue? I think I can live with it since it seems like you can only see it in a small percentage of scenes that are being displayed. By the way Sound Track in Denver matched the PB price!

my set also had a smudge on the left-hand side, but after a few hours of viewing, it seems to have disappeared. I noticed it the first time I turned it on, but I was just looking at it and I can't seem to identify the smudge at all anymore. My guess is it's something that appears immediately on some TVs, but after the TV 'warms up' and has been in use for a while, the smudge disappears.

Here's the issue. After the TV has been on for awhile, the remote control sensor seems to stop working. I know that it has to do with the TV and not the remote (or batteries) because it also doesn't work with my other samsung remote (for my DVD 841 player). The annoying light doesn't even come on. I'll turn my TV off, wait a couple of minutes and it will work again, but a couple of minutes later it will cease functioning.

I'm calling Samsung about this tomorrow, but in the meantime was wondering if anyone ran into the similar problem or may know a quick fix.

-dlpboy

Originally posted by baylorgator
TexasAggie: I just bought the 50" hlp at CC last week. I'm bringing it back because it intermittently replaces the picture with a black & white grid pattern. Since online prices are much cheaper, I'm considering ordering online instead of getting a replacement at CC, but had the same concern you did about online orders. How did your experience turn out?



Here is the good and bad.

Bad
Samsung service tech called to schedule an appointment, but unfortunately, will not be able to come out until next week due to not having any service manuals, parts lists etc. He was supposed to be getting those e-mailed to them yesterday. Then, he will order the parts that he thinks I will need and then once they arive, 2-3 days, then he will come out and repair.

I think that this will get better in a few weeks as all service providors are getting set-up for new HLP's.

Good
TVA has been great! They said that they would ship the first one off of the truck of the next batch and pick-up my bad one at the same time. It may arrive before Samsung can get out to repair original one.

The set is still very watchable, but just not on HD stations. I really don't see the dancing red dots much on SD. But they are horrible on HD.

For the price, I would still do the PB again. In the long run this is just a bump in the road.

Evil-Rage,

On your games, have you noticed any dithering problems like those brought up with the HLN models? This is easier to spot on first person shooters when you move your person's head from side to side. The higher contrast colors will spear/streak if there is a dithering problem.

If anyone has a PC hooked up via DVI can you also try this? Thanks!! :D

Originally posted by TexasAggie
Here is the good and bad.

Bad
Samsung service tech called to schedule an appointment, but unfortunately, will not be able to come out until next week due to not having any service manuals, parts lists etc. He was supposed to be getting those e-mailed to them yesterday. Then, he will order the parts that he thinks I will need and then once they arive, 2-3 days, then he will come out and repair.

I think that this will get better in a few weeks as all service providors are getting set-up for new HLP's.

Good
TVA has been great! They said that they would ship the first one off of the truck of the next batch and pick-up my bad one at the same time. It may arrive before Samsung can get out to repair original one.

The set is still very watchable, but just not on HD stations. I really don't see the dancing red dots much on SD. But they are horrible on HD.

For the price, I would still do the PB again. In the long run this is just a bump in the road.

I just think its a shame that you would have all these problems right after you purchase a set. This seems to indicate that this technology isn't ready yet or that Samsung rushed these sets to the market.

Originally posted by MaxC
Evil-Rage,

On your games, have you noticed any dithering problems like those brought up with the HLN models? This is easier to spot on first person shooters when you move your person's head from side to side. The higher contrast colors will spear/streak if there is a dithering problem.

If anyone has a PC hooked up via DVI can you also try this? Thanks!! :D

I played Halo for about 30 minutes last night on my 50" HLP and did not notice any dithering problems. I also played Project Gotham Racing 2 and MX Unleashed (only 1080i game I have) and they all looked great. This is my first experience playing video games on a DLP TV. I previously had the Xbox hooked up to a Sony KV-34HS510 34" Tube HDTV which was great for gaming. I have to say that the DLP seems to look just as good on a much larger scale of course. What a difference with the 50" screen!

Originally posted by Auditor55
I just think its a shame that you would have all these problems right after you purchase a set. This seems to indicate that this technology isn't ready yet or that Samsung rushed these sets to the market.

I think it's an unrealistic expectation that 100% of the TV's delivered will be without problems. What if it's something as simple as a disconnected wire that occured during shipping?

If these things are the exception and not the rule (less than .1%), I think think that's still acceptable. less than .001% is even better :)

Originally posted by Auditor55
I just think its a shame that you would have all these problems right after you purchase a set. This seems to indicate that this technology isn't ready yet or that Samsung rushed these sets to the market.


I just ordered a 56, but agree with Auditor55. There are just to damm many different models going to CERTAIN accounts. Bulbs have up to a 14 week wait and no stands for all these models. I could go on but will stop here.

Guess I like to gamble:D only extended warranty for me is a freebie from VISA:D

GEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZ, We have enough trouble getting the TV to function properly, now the remote.:mad:

Cannot help you much, had similar problem on new 5065, next day had a DN 811 installed and now the 811 remote is all I use. And it works great:D

I just gor the new HLP5063 and have not had any problems with it. I have not noticed the sound sync problem that my HLN had. Also, the quick motion on SD is not as fuzzy, and the screen door effect is gone. I CANNOT BE HAPPIER.

Originally posted by hitfordcycle
I just gor the new HLP5063 and have not had any problems with it. I have not noticed the sound sync problem that my HLN had. Also, the quick motion on SD is not as fuzzy, and the screen door effect is gone. I CANNOT BE HAPPIER.

I must say it is good to hear a good review :D.

I wonder sometimes if the reivews aren't overly critical given the nature of the expertease on these forums. Someone posted a good comment earlier in regards to the all the bad reviews of products on these forums (irregardless of product or vender). It is pretty rare that people actually come on and give a good review. Usually when people are looking for an outlet to voice an opinion or review, it is because of a bad experience as opposed to a good one.

I look forward to my 5063 getting here soon.

Warren in MN

So you are saying we have "Anal retentive" Members? ;)

I think that when you spend the $$$$ that we are on these toys we get to complain about the imperfections even if we are the beta testers.

Originally posted by Evil-Rage
my set also had a smudge on the left-hand side, but after a few hours of viewing, it seems to have disappeared. I noticed it the first time I turned it on, but I was just looking at it and I can't seem to identify the smudge at all anymore. My guess is it's something that appears immediately on some TVs, but after the TV 'warms up' and has been in use for a while, the smudge disappears.

I noticed this too when I first tuned on the set. It was only noticeable when the background was white. It also appeared to go away after about an hour.

I also have the smudges. Are all of the units going to have this or would it be worth trying to do an exchange since I bought mine locally. I am also seeing the rainbow effect. Of course when I looked at these in the store I could not see it even though I was doing everything I could to try to see it. I am trying to get use to it because other than that I love the TV. I seem to mostly see the rainbows on movies/film as oppossed to programs shot with HD video cameras. Is this usually the case?

Originally posted by Panic 66
I am also seeing the rainbow effect. Of course when I looked at these in the store I could not see it even though I was doing everything I could to try to see it.

This is the first I've heard of rainbows on an HLP unit. Are you sure it's an HLP or an HLN? Just curious.

Regards,
Frank (noob)

Surprised to see only one comment about the audio/video sync issue. Does anyone else care to comment on that? My parents bought a 61" HLN 2 weeks ago and the video delay is driving them nuts. I'm trying to help them decide whether to buy an HLP, or to get another brand (Sony Grand WEGA)

Thanks,
Phil

Originally posted by pmd918
Surprised to see only one comment about the audio/video sync issue. Does anyone else care to comment on that? My parents bought a 61" HLN 2 weeks ago and the video delay is driving them nuts. I'm trying to help them decide whether to buy an HLP, or to get another brand (Sony Grand WEGA)

Thanks,
Phil

Hopefully that's b/c people are no longer experiencing it :)

Most people have had their HLP for less than 1 week. If anyone had seen the delay, it would have made the threads immediately. However I think most people, myself included, do not want to claim it is not an issue until we have more time logged watching the TV in various configurations.

Then let me be the first to post about HLP delay.

I was watching Moulin Rouge again the other night to test the lip-synching and it is very apparent that the A/V is out of synch when Ewan sings 'Your Song' to Nicole.

However since it happens nowhere else, I'm thinking it may be the way the DTS is encoded. I'm going to test the Dolby 5.1 track later.

-dlpboy

After lurking here for the past four or five months I’ve come to a number of conclusions, perhaps erroneously.

If I buy a new Samsung HLPxxxx DLP television I should be prepared for the following:

1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.

2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.

3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.

4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.

5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.

6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.

7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.

8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.

9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”

10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.

11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.

12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.

The attendant costs of HDTV’s are one thing, however here we are in the third generation Samsung DLP’s and the problems associated with being an “early adaptor” still seems to be present. I realize that what I read on this forum is just the tip of the tip of the iceberg, but it is still disheartening to see a product you want to embrace with so many alleged problems.

Originally posted by JKay
After lurking here for the past four or five months I’ve come to a number of conclusions, perhaps erroneously.

I think you missed:

13. Brace myself for picture quality on non-hdtv television which will embarass me in front of company and make me wish I'd never sold my 10 year-old 30" direct-view CRT set.

14. Stop playing fast-moving action games on my game console

These two appear to also be common complaints.

Originally posted by JKay

1) Purchase a UPS to protect the light bulb during a power failure.
2) Purchase a new DVD player to take advantage of DVI.
3) Consider hiring an ISF professional ($400.00 plus) to fine tune the band
new TV for a presentable video image.
4) Possibly will have smudges on the screen that may or may not go
away.
5) Possibly will have dancing red spots on screen.
6) More than likely will have some audio/video sync problems.
7) Should be prepared to experience premature bulb failure.
8) May experience rainbow effect with peripheral vision.
9) A phenomenon that presents itself like dead pixels. Also referred to as
“stuck mirrors.”
10) Pay the cable company an extra 25 to 30 bucks a month for digital
cable and a STB.
11) Purchase a variety of overpriced hi-tech cables to hook everything up.
12) Be prepared to return the first DLP received in hopes the second one
will not exhibit the problems mentioned above.

1) That's up to you
2) Again, that's your choice.
3) You can go the DIY route for $30 or so, if you can live with that, ISF calibration won't benecessary.
4) Can't comment on the smudges, not enough info.
5) 1(?) instance repoted
6) Not yet confirmed.
7) Life's full of uncertainties.
8) May.
9) There's always the CRT option.
10) That's a personal choice, you can always go with an OTA antenna until the cable channels expand their programming.
11) Not really.
12) At least you have tha option and you have a company willing to work with you. So far no one has reported any difficulties with service.

Originally posted by Nugget
I think you missed:

14. Stop playing fast-moving action games on my game console

These two appear to also be common complaints.

Could you please post where you read this? Most of my reading has indicated that the DLPs are arguably amongst the best technologies available for gaming.

Thanks!

hmm, maybe I've missed some threads, but I haven't heard solid reports of *any* of those problems with the HLPs. Then again they only hit the stores less than a week ago.. There will no doubt be some common issues, as there are with anything. And all the other points are a matter of personal choice and true of virtually any big TV. I think the DLPs look stunning out of the box.

Originally posted by Nugget
I think you missed:

13. Brace myself for picture quality on non-hdtv television which will embarass me in front of company and make me wish I'd never sold my 10 year-old 30" direct-view CRT set.


That is an excellent point and one I had not even considered.

I'm a brand new member, but I've been lurking for a few days. First of all thanks to you all for the valuable information:

Here is my Sammy saga. I purchased from Ultimate Electronics a HLN 507 which I thought was a customer return for $2800. I discovered from the service menu, that the set had almost 2,000 hours on it. I called and expressed my concern over the amount of hours on this "customer return." I was told there were none left, but I could get at HLP for the same price...My lucky day, so I thought. Now I wonder. I received the HLP today, and I must say that the picture is MUCH softer than the HLN. I mean the background detail just isn't there right now. I'm wondering about burn-in, and if that will sharpen up the picture. I've done some tweaking, and I will say the improved contrast is noticeable, I'm not sure I can accept the trade-off of a softer picture. I agree with other comments about an improvement regarding the screen door issue. Maybe I really liked the "sparkle" of the HLN. The skin features just aren't as sharp on this set. I'm basing this perception from HDNet, and my local PBS station. I'm going to let this one ride for a while, but I'm a bit worried. I will get a calibration disc, and see what happens. My question is, has anyone noticed the picture sharpening up over time?

Calibrate it with DVE and then re-assess the situation. I, for one, am looking forward to your results.

Ninthdragon,

Can you help me out with an online site to purchase a DVE disc? No one here in this sleepy little hamlet we like to call Albuquerque sells em...

Try Amazon.

Or check deepdiscountdvd.com, as it's a little cheaper and free shipping.

deepdiscountdvd.com (http://www.deepdiscountdvd.com/dvd.cfm?itemID=VMG010712)

Froogle (http://www.froogle.com) (as in frugal..a relative of google), is your friend...

Anyone have both DVE and Avia? I have Avia and was wondering what's the difference? I know a new DVE came out last fall, is it something I should think about getting even tho I have Avia?

You folks with the smudges, don't worry as this seems a very common issue on new Sammys. I can't say for sure what causes it, but it seems there is a membrane or other screen directly behind the front lens. My guess is that in shipping or in cold temperatures the two come in contact with one another (especially at the sides) and that is what causes the smudges. I have seen it on both my new DLPs.

It is easily rectified by taking a clean SOFT towel, and with your hand, pressing it lightly into the front screen so it depresses just a bit, starting at the sides and then moving all around the area of the screen.

Do this with a soild white background displayed and you will see the smudges go away. What's more you will kind of hear and feel the two pieces (anyway I am guessing there are two pieces) separate from each other when you do this.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Seaeye,

I ordered a DVE disc from the site you mentioned...I hope it does the trick.
I've read posts where picture softness was eluded to, it appears it isn't as big an issue with other folks however.

Where is everyone putting all their components (receiver, dvd player, cable box, vcr, center channel, etc.) with the new DLPs? The stand that comes with the power buy looks like it could only hold a receiver on one shelf and the center channel on the other. Why does Tech Craft make all its stands with that odd shape (such that if you're looking at it from above it's a pentagon)?! You can't put components side-by-side so there's barely any room to fit anything!

I've been pouring over this forum for months and would like to take part in the new HLP power buy. However, the one thing stopping me is that I don't know where I will put all my other components!

Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe some of you could share your plans. Thanks!

bgriffis, I had a hard time finding an affordable tv stand to fit all my gear (most of which not purchased yet, but in the works). I ended up deciding on this bush stand (http://www.bush-furniture-online.com/bush_VS74377-03.html)

It's 59" wide, so i figure I'll be able to fit 3 components per shelf for a total of six components and tv.

As far as a TV goes, I was really ready to pull the trigger on a 56" HLP base model, but I don't like what I've been hearing.

All I want is a tv with a great picture, 2 DVI (or HDMI or a combination)inputs, one full range component input (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i), usefull splitscreen capability (let me type email over DVI, and watch TV over DVI at the same time), a place to put a center channel speaker on top, and no problems at delivery. Is that too much to ask? My budget is 4K for a tv, and I can't believe I can't find something with these features. Oh well, I'll just wait and keep watching my 27" for a while longer.

John

Originally posted by bgriffis
I've been pouring over this forum for months and would like to take part in the new HLP power buy. However, the one thing stopping me is that I don't know where I will put all my other components!
You may have your cart firmly ahead of your horse. ;)

Here are more examples than you will ever check out.

Let's See Some Pic's!! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=307472&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

If there is an IKEA store near you check this out too.

Here is a link to information and a picture of the IKEA stand.

IKEA Stand (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=2349829#post2349829)

Then you can use the "search" function (top of every page) to scan for the word "stand" -- no quotes. Select this forum and slow search. You should get at least 395 messages that use the word "stand" in them. You will find pictures and brand names in some of those threads.

Good luck.

htwaits, are those Bose Acoustimass speakers in front of your beautiful Samsung DLP? That is just wrong man, just wrong I tell you. Well seeing that about does it for me. I'm calling it a night.

I like that IKEA stand though.

John

jbliz, that Bush stand looks pretty nice. Much cheaper than the Tech Craft and Samsung stands too! Just curious, what was it you heard about the 56" HLP that turned you off? That's the one I was planning to buy! I only remember seeing good things about it.

htwaits, thanks for the links. I live about 10 minutes from Ikea so I'll stop by and check it out one of these nights.

Thanks very much for the replies, jbliz and htwaits!

Originally posted by bgriffis


I've been pouring over this forum for months and would like to take part in the new HLP power buy. However, the one thing stopping me is that I don't know where I will put all my other components!

Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe some of you could share your plans. Thanks!

I just had this stand made by a local carpenter for ~$300 (the sketches are rough, but they were plenty for him). (attached)

I made it for 4-6 components on the outside shelves, and game consoles (or future HTPC) behind the door in the center.

I looked at the Ikea Oppli--a popular stand for DLPs--but not enough room for my components...

Originally posted by jbliz
htwaits, are those Bose Acoustimass speakers in front of your beautiful Samsung DLP? That is just wrong man, just wrong I tell you.

John
John, you are right that is wrong. But what can I do? The Bose speakers are old (they came with my Laserdisk player) and my ears are 70 years old. What to do? What to do? ;)

I might add that a "true gentleman" would not have mentioned my acoustic deformities, but you are forgiven -- please send speakers.

Les

When I asked my dealer about samsung, the only negative he gave me was black level issues (I'm assuming with the HLN series). Now assuming the xHD3 (5000:1 contrast ratio apparently) will REALLY improve the black levels (I hope).

How do you guys find the current HLP's? Are they a lot better for blacks?

- D

Everything about the PB process – TVA, Seko, Samsung packaging & the DLP - have been great.

I received my HLP5063 last Tuesday. Although the 46” version would have required less re-construction of the cabinet unit built to house a CRT 36”, we opted for the 50”. I think it’s perfect for our 11.5’ viewing distance and the type of viewing we do.

We’ve only viewed SD from a DirecTivo so far and the PQ picture is better than expected. The only quirk I’ve noticed so far is the time display that Tivo lets you put in the lower right corner is partially hidden by the DLP’s bezel. Definitely at the bottom, but maybe all sides, the picture seems to be larger than the bezel opening by approximately an inch. The manual shows some size/positioning adjustments when the input is HTPC but not for others. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks for any & all help. You guys & this forum is great.

bgriffis,

I decided against the new 56" Samsung HLP because there is no place to put a center channel speaker on top, and because the PIP and splitscreen functions would be useless to me. The splitscreen and PIP only alows one sourse to be DVI, HDMI, RGB or component. The other source has to be s-video or composite. That's a complete waste of my time, but it might not be a big deal for you. I love the picture of the samsungs though, and that's the most important thing. I'm just not going to drop all of that cash if the TV is not exactly what I want.

John

[QUOTE]Originally posted by htwaits
[
Here is a link to information and a picture of the IKEA stand.

IKEA Stand (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=2349829#post2349829)

It's a nice looking stand. I've been looking at stands on the net and see that most of them do not have wheels and I've been wondering if this is deliberate. Is there an equipment problem that arises with wheels? Maybe bursts of sound make it shift?? I need to be able to move the stand several times a year to get at pipes in the wall that serve my radiator. No access to pipes, no heat. Since I'm a renter and not an owner of my apt. I can't change the pipes so I need to get a stand with wheels.

It's a nice looking stand. I've been looking at stands on the net and see that most of them do not have wheels and I've been wondering if this is deliberate. Is there an equipment problem that arises with wheels? Maybe bursts of sound make it shift?? I need to be able to move the stand several times a year to get at pipes in the wall that serve my radiator. No access to pipes, no heat. Since I'm a renter and not an owner of my apt. I can't change the pipes so I need to get a stand with wheels.

I have the OPPLI with wheels, and I love it. I'm waiting to get my HLP5663, but with my stereo stuff in the stand I've found it to be very convenient to be able to move it so easily - fiddling with connections etc. is absolutely no hassle. Incidentally, there are 4 casters at the corners plus one in the middle. It is also possible to get legs (4",6",and 8") at IKEA to use with the stand if you prefer.

According to the Ikea website, the OPPLI is no longer available in black.

Link here. (http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&productId=11149&langId=-1&parentCats=10104*10174)

Originally posted by mtw76mtw
According to the Ikea website, the OPPLI is no longer available in black.

Link here. (http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&productId=11149&langId=-1&parentCats=10104*10174)

The stand issue is a little more complicated......see photo

If you look REALLY hard you may see a storage issue. :)
Hint: the 2 letters of the alphabet following a and b.
My setup now is for LP's which I don't listen to any more. I have to get an all new shelf system. And I want the stand to match in color. Approx. 140 inches of stand and shelving. Haven't settled on what wood yet.

jbarbbcuny,

FWIW, I have an HLN617W sitting on a Salamander Synergy Triple 20. I would love to have wheels on it, but was afraid they would raise the TV to too high a viewing level. I'm getting ready to consolidate all my electronics into the Triple20 stand, which will make it very heavy. I will need to move it away from the wall to get access to the wiring, and then back into viewing position, and don't relish the thought of that work.

A colleague told me about a product called Moving Men, which I found by Googling on "AS Seen on TV". They are round coaster like things with a smooth, slick bottom and a grippy top surface. The idea is you put the legs of the furniture on the top of the Moving Men, and then you can slide the whole thing around. My colleague says they do work. I plan to buy some myself, but am going to visit a local hardward store that says they have that type of product in stock, although they're not called Moving Men.

Thanks
Bruce

Originally posted by mtw76mtw
According to the Ikea website, the OPPLI is no longer available in black.
When I got mine over a year ago the black stand wasn't on their web site. It has been available in the store near us. As far as I know the web site isn't a direct match for the inventory available in their stores. They also have some stores that do not carry the full IKEA product line. I don't know if that relates to TV stands or not.

Does anyone have experience with this product on mounting your center channel above your DLP on the wall?

http://www.btech-usa.com/bt15.html

Thanks!

Was at IKEA last weekend. Black OPPLI has been discontinued.
We ultimately rejected Birch Oppli after I took it home--color wrong, too low, and would need to raise Sammie too much via chipboard in order to not have center channel speaker block remote port.
Put together a package of Intermetro Wire Shelving from The Container Store for not much more money, and it will solve all the storage issues. Unfortunately no store in Philly area, nearest Paramus NJ or RockvilleMD, so yet another shipment to wait for. But their online site is real good in showing all the components.

BruceOmega:
Thanks. I did a google search and have sent for a catalogue.

Originally posted by Daphoid
When I asked my dealer about samsung, the only negative he gave me was black level issues (I'm assuming with the HLN series). Now assuming the xHD3 (5000:1 contrast ratio apparently) will REALLY improve the black levels (I hope).

How do you guys find the current HLP's? Are they a lot better for blacks?

- D

I also would like to hear from the new HLP owners...how about the contrast and shadow detail compared to the HLNs?

HLP Stands:

The Bush Furniture web site is down, but I stumbled across this link to their catalog: www.bushindustries.com/PressReleases/ENT_CAT_SPR_2004.pdf
I ordered the VS44155-03 for the HLP6163W from a local furniture store, should be here mid July. I haven't seen it in person though, so I hope I like it when it gets here. Looked like it had enough space for components underneath. I was going to put the center channel speaker on the first shelf under the TV. I now see there are some other options from Btech-USA as mentioned above. Did anyone look at this model: www.btech-usa.com/bt14.html ? I wonder if it would work at all given that the Samsung HLP's seem to slope down very sharply from the top?

I just got my HLP5063 delivered today. I'm not going to jump to any conclusions but its displaying that green push like my former HLN507. I went into the MCC menu and lowered the green to zero and the Tint as much as possible before it became too red. Hopefully things well get better as the tv burns-in. *fingers crossed*

Originally posted by OKAYDAVE
Does anyone have experience with this product on mounting your center channel above your DLP on the wall?

http://www.btech-usa.com/bt15.html

Thanks!

Seems like this one might make more sense to allow mounting on top of the TV ....
http://www.btech-usa.com/bt14.html

Originally posted by lmplot
...and would need to raise Sammie too much via chipboard in order to not have center channel speaker block remote port.

Not sure which Sammy you have, but the HLN's do not have a remote "port". The sensor is inside the TV, and the internal reflector (the one that directs the image to the screen) directs the infrared signal to the sensor. Point the remote at the screen, not at the circle in front. I don't know if the HLP follows this design.

You can put the center channel right in front of the TV (unless it blocks the screen, of course).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=2698556&fullpage=1

Thanks for the info, gakon! Wow, that's something I definitely didn't know. Can somebody with a HLP confirm this is the case with the new sets, as well? That might make set-up a lot simpler for a lot of the folks who have been wondering what the heck to do with their center channel since there's no shelf on the HD3 models.

Edit - I just looked at the PDF User Manual for the HD3 sets. Page 10 shows a picture of the front of the set. Below the big round Power button is the Remote Control Sensor, next to which it says "Aim the remote control towards this spot on the TV."

Hmm. Why would they change that between the HLNs and HLPs?

the HLP has its IR sensor underneath the circle in the speaker. it's the smaller black circle.

dlpboy beat me to it, but I was about to post the same. The IR sensor is just below the power button.

yeah, its kinda disappointing. it may just be me, but it seems that now i have to aim in a more specific direction than with my HLN which was generally in the vacinity of the screen.

another annoyance is the 'standby temp' light stays on in the circular area which is now the power button (thought the power button placement is nice).

I still haven't got around to programming my MX500 which has a very powerful beam (I can point it most anywhere with all my gear as long as the batteries are good), but the standard remote hasn't missed once for me. I'm only bout 8', but I can point it at the ceiling or either adjacent wall and it picks it up every time.

I noticed before you mentioned not liking the green light when an IR signal is sent either. I don't mind it personally, but I suppose you could always cover it with tape or something :)

Originally posted by Cheapskate112
I just got my HLP5063 delivered today. I'm not going to jump to any conclusions but its displaying that green push like my former HLN507. I went into the MCC menu and lowered the green to zero and the Tint as much as possible before it became too red. Hopefully things well get better as the tv burns-in. *fingers crossed*

For what it's worth, yours is the first message I've read that reported green push on an HLP. In a side-by-side comparison, I saw definite green push on the HLN, but neutral, realistic color on the HLP. My guess is you've got a specific hardware, source or setup problem... or maybe you're sensitive to something most others aren't. Good luck, hope you resolve it.

Has anyone adjusted the basic settings of their HLP's? I ran my set through DVE and the PQ is still off. Especially when it comes to contrast/brightness, reds and greens. Any posted numbers will help.

To anyone who already owns the hlp, could you tell me if the set has aspect ratio control via dvi input? Hln would lock into widescreen mode making it impossible to watch 4:3 DVDs unless you have a DVD player that has aspect ratio control. I am wondering if hlp does the same.

Thanks

I got my settings to my liking in the cinema mode but things looked a bit green and the reds were orange. I went to the standard setting and matched the contrast, brightness and color depth by going back and forth with the cinema and the standard setting now looks great! The reds are RED and the GREENS are under control!!

Originally posted by Stan Rozenfeld
To anyone who already owns the hlp, could you tell me if the set has aspect ratio control via dvi input? Hln would lock into widescreen mode making it impossible to watch 4:3 DVDs unless you have a DVD player that has aspect ratio control. I am wondering if hlp does the same.

Thanks

I am not sure about DVD hooked up via DVI but I was happy to see that I can watch 4:3 DVD material in 4:3 format with my Sony progressive scan hooked up via component cables to my HLP5063W. Prior to getting the HLP I was not able to do this with my Sony 34" HDTV. Whenever I would switch to 4:3 the screen would just display a bunch of scrambled video noise. I would have to turn off progressive scan to watch something in 4:3. With my HD Tivo hooked up via HDMI it will allow me to squeeze a 16:9 image to 4:3 so I would think that your DVI DVD player should also work for 4:3 material.

Originally posted by Stan Rozenfeld
To anyone who already owns the hlp, could you tell me if the set has aspect ratio control via dvi input? Hln would lock into widescreen mode making it impossible to watch 4:3 DVDs unless you have a DVD player that has aspect ratio control. I am wondering if hlp does the same.

Thanks
I have spent some time on this issue even though I didn't have the HLN TV. As near as I could determine it was the Samsung HD931 causing the HLN sets to lock into Wide mode when the DVI input was used. The owners who used the Bravo D1 DVD player (Arun Gupta) didn't have this problem.

One new owner of the HLP5063 has posted that he has "Zoom" (for Letterbox) and "Normal" (for Acadamy Standard 4x3) available when he connects his Samsung HD841 to the HLP using DVI. Zoom and Normal are HLN terminology and I'm not sure Samsung is using the same terminology with the HLP sets.

My conclusion is that Samsung's DLP TV sets didn't need to change but they have changed their DVI enabled DVD players. I don't have a way to try it for myself.

Can anyone tell me the difference between SRS Truesurround and BBE. Which one is better? The new HLP's have gone to the SRS Truesurround and with the exception of the HLP4674. Had a HLP4663 on order and cancelled because of the size (3" more the than the 4674 model). Now I am reconsidering.

I stopped by the Best Buy in Pasadena after work. There they had the 5063 next to a 61" RCA DLP which was next to a 52" LG DLP (sorry I don't remember the model numbers). The 5063 blew the other two clear out of the water. They were running the HD loop on all three. The 61" had a screendoor that a junebug could fly through. The LG looked rather weak conpared to the 5063. The colors and the definition on the 5063 were great. Part of the loop contained a preview for Troy, WOW! did that look great.

Let me get this straight. The HLP can pillarbox 4:3 content through DVI with an 841?

Has anyone tried it with a 931 to see if it might also work on the HLP? BB is clearing out 931s for $180 and I'd be sorely tempted to pick one up if I could change aspect ratios through the set.

Originally posted by wittangamo
Has anyone tried it with a 931 to see if it might also work on the HLP? BB is clearing out 931s for $180 and I'd be sorely tempted to pick one up if I could change aspect ratios through the set.
Maybe someone will test it for you. Since it's the HD931 causing the problem I doubt that Samsung would modify the HLP sets to correct the problem. They might. Isn't the HD841 selling for just a little over that price?

I've heard so many stories I don't know what to believe. I've read owner reviews that say the 931's aspect controls do work over DVI on some sets. I've seen others suggest that some sets are able to control aspect ratios over DVI using the 931. I've also seen people claim that neither statement is true.

What I want to know is whether, when the HLP and 931 are hooked together over DVI, if EITHER ONE can change aspects so that 4:3 TV shows and Academy ratio films on DVD will display in their OAR.

Can anybody answer definitively, yea or nay?

(It's not just the sale price, though the 941 will be at least $100 more and the 841 $10-20 more. I'm a movie buff, not an audiophile, so I don't need a universal player, and I'd prefer the Faroudja that is missing in the 841.)

The 931 seems a good match for the HLP otherwise, and unless the 941 solves the black crush problem I don't see any major advantages in the new models.

Feel free to try to change my mind. I do a 180-degree turn every few minutes anyway.

From talking to some knowledgeable people and checking some posts in the dvd forum, my understanding regarding this matter is as follows:

You have to have aspect ratio control either in the player or in the TV, but many people seem to think that it really should be in TV, (i.e. that's where the primary responsibility is... am not sure why).

When progressive scan first became popular, all the hdtvs at that time would lock into widescreen mode and there was no way to watch 4:3 DVDs until they came out with DVD players that had their own aspect ratio control. Eventually, all hdtvs had aspect ratio control for progressive scan, but that took a couple of 'generations'.

Now we're seeing the same thing with DVI. Most TVs and front projectors that I've seen can not play 4:3 DVDs unless the DVD player has aspect ratio control. Bravo D1 and I think, Mommitsu are the two players that do have aspect ratio control. What's great about Bravo is that it has automatic aspect ratio control... you don't even have to press a button.

However, if you want deinterlacing and scaling that's superior to Bravo, not to mention the quality control, you're stuck. I remember reading a thread regarding the $2000 Denon 5900, which gets great marks from reviewers despite some issues. One of the complaints is that this expensive flagship player does not have aspect ratio control from DVI; the answer of the defenders of this player was that aspect ratio control should be in the display, and that the complaints should go to the display makers.

This is why, I would like to find out if the hlp has aspect ratio control over DVI, because it will determine what kind of DVD player I wind up buying.

There is one other complication! It seems that most displays do not have ratio control over dvi when you send 720p, but when you send 480p and let the display do the scaling, they do have aspect ratio control! The people who defended Denon 5900, said that if you want to watch a 4:3 movie via DVI, just set it to 480p output, and then the display/TV will adjust for 4:3 movie. However, I am not sure what this sort of processing will do to picture quality.

At any rate, since I am already participating in power buy for hlp 6163, I am hoping that

1) somebody will plug in a 4:3 film via dvi 720p and let us know what happens
2) if hlp doesn't have aspect ratio control via 720p DVI, I am hoping that the new DVD players coming out, particularly Samsung 941, will have aspect ratio control

Please correct me if I made any mistakes in the information above,

Thanks,
Stan

Originally posted by Stan Rozenfeld
Please correct me if I made any mistakes in the information above,

Thanks,
Stan
Thanks for a great summary Stan.

The Bravo D1 post that I recall may not have been that the TV had control of aspect mode but that there was no "problem" getting the correct aspect mode. I wasn't aware that the Bravo correctly output the right aspect mode depending on the DVD. That might be a problem if the display was a CRT RPTV.

What we need is someone replacing their HLN with a HLP who has the HD931 to do some aspect mode "availability" tests. :)

OK, I think I have a couple of answers.

The downloadable owner's manual for the HLP5063W indicates that 4:3 mode is only available over component.

In other words, for a DVI hookup you need a player that can switch aspect ratios. The 841 can do this, and presumably the 941 as well.

Can someone with an 841 tell us if it's automatic like the Momitsu and Bravo?

Also, reviews say the 931 can change aspect ratios over component, but apparently not over DVI with an HLN. I'm still not certain that means it won't work with an HLP, but it's looking less likely. Anybody have this pair to check?

Yes, you're right. Bravo has its own aspect ratio control that works quite well. I didn't check it with CRT, but I have a friend who hooked it up to his 9" front projection CRT via some sort of dvi to RGB converter, and he said it looked fantastic.

wittangamo,

Thanks for the answer. So it looks like Denon 5900 is out of the question.

From what I read, I don't think that 841 has automatic aspect ratio control, like Bravo. Also, I am not sure, but 841 still has problem with black lever, according to some threads. So hopefully 941 will fix all that and provide affordable Faroudja processing to boot... if not, I guess I'll have to stick with Bravo for a while.

I was not aware that the Bravo has an aspect ratio control. It has a zoom feature that works well for non anamorphic DVDs.

What happens is that Bravo automatically switches between anamorphic DVDs and 4:3 Academy ratio DVDs. Non-anamorphic, letterbox DVDs are technically just 4:3 DVDs, so it reads them as 4:3 DVDs window boxing them on all four sides. Then, as I understand, there is a zoom1 function that allows you to expand the DVD to fill the screen to the sides, but at the cost of resolution. I actually prefer to watch such DVDs windowboxed to maintain clarity, but it's all a question of taste.

I've had my HLP 5063 for 3 days now, and while I have definitely been much happier with it than my 5065w (which is being bought back by Samsung), I am concerned about the event that happened yesterday afternoon.

Upon turning on the TV, there was no pause/warm-up; it was instantly on. Everything that was supposed to be white had a pink tint to it! I left it on for a few minutes, but the problem did not go away, so I shut it off. About 30 minutes later, I tried again and everything was normal. Any ideas? The TV was left on the 3 hour sleep mode earlier that day, but I do not see how that would effect it.

Also, and maybe this is normal, but when using the Audio outs on the TV to connect to a stereo (I don't a nice speaker setup yet), there is a delay between what you see on the TV and hear through the speakers. If both the TV and stereo speakers are on there is an echo to confirm this.

Thanks,

Originally posted by ride525
Here's a link to the manual, perhaps that will help....
http://samsung.com/Support/ProductSupport/download/FileView.aspx?cttfileid=172452&type=TV&typecode=1&subtype=Projection&subtypecode=&cmssubtypecode=103&model=HL-P5063W&filetype=UM&language=#

Is any one else having trouble looking at the manual? It looks like it was updated 6/15/04 and now the .pdf just loads garbage for me.

Originally posted by f16falcon
Is any one else having trouble looking at the manual? It looks like it was updated 6/15/04 and now the .pdf just loads garbage for me.
I just down loaded the PDF and it seems fine.

Hey, htwaits -- if no one chimes in by 7th July, I'll have an answer about the 931 and HLP combo. And I haven't read the remaining posts, here, yet -- I'm up to yours, this morning.

I love my 931 -- but, have never tried a 4:3 DVD on it. I will be getting Seven Samurai, sooner or later, though. BEST BUY is replacing my HLN -- the HLP is to be delivered 7th July. Which, I guess, is when the small town stores finally get them. I imagine some of the big town stores might have them in stock before then.

Originally posted by f16falcon
Is any one else having trouble looking at the manual? It looks like it was updated 6/15/04 and now the .pdf just loads garbage for me.

Yup. On XP Pro, using Firefox I get "Object Label Badly Formatted". Using IE, I just get binary garbage. What OS/browser are you guys using that aren't having probs?

Originally posted by royal
Yup. On XP Pro, using Firefox I get "Object Label Badly Formatted". Using IE, I just get binary garbage. What OS/browser are you guys using that aren't having probs?
Opera 7.21

I couldn't get IE 6.0 to download the PDF either.

Opera works for me as well. Evidently it's not as picky about the (guessing) malformed headers.

Originally posted by htwaits
I couldn't get IE 6.0 to download the PDF either.

Thanks for checking, I'm glad it's not something I messed up on my computer. I'm running Windows XP with IE 6.0. I sent Samsung an email about it yesterday, so maybe they will fix it soon.

Originally posted by edwardacampbell
Hey, htwaits -- if no one chimes in by 7th July, I'll have an answer about the 931 and HLP combo.I love my 931 -- but, have never tried a 4:3 DVD on it.
Sing'n In The Rain may be the best transfer of an older musical. Of course Seven Samurai (the original Japanese version) is one of the best movies of all time.

BEST BUY is replacing my HLN -- the HLP is to be delivered 7th July.
If your HLN is working you might try an Academy Standard 4x3 move with the DVI output set to 480p and see which aspect modes are available on your HLN.

Santa Fe isn't a small town. :)

Save it to your desktop as a .pdf file and it will work.

Just downloaded the manual as .pdf for the HLP4663W. No problems: XP Home, Firefox 0.9, Acrobat Reader 6.0 -- glad y'all brought up the topic. Now I'll sort out my connections in advance.

htwaits -- feels like a small town a lot of the time. The city proper is about 55,000. As we say, "I live in the county" -- in La Cieneguilla. Dare I presume you wander through, once in a while?

Originally posted by edwardacampbell
htwaits -- feels like a small town a lot of the time. The city proper is about 55,000. As we say, "I live in the county" -- in La Cieneguilla. Dare I presume you wander through, once in a while?
Once four years ago. We loved the whole four corners area. It was late May and I hated to start North for home after only four days in Santa Fe. Among other things, the food was better in Santa Fe than anywhere we have visited in the South West. I'm a typical tourist -- feed me, feed me, feed me.

Originally posted by htwaits
I couldn't get IE 6.0 to download the PDF either.

My email about the bad link didn't work, they asked me to call. I called their customer Service Center just now and the guy there couldn't get it to open either so he was going to "make a note of it". Hopefully I'll be able to open the link in a few days, although I don't know how high on their priority list something like that is.

Just a few quick question about some of the feature settings on the HLP - the manual isn't overly descriptive.

1) Film Mode - do people leave this on for 480i sources? I have an SA 8000 DVR (SD) - does it make sense to leave this on?

2) Digital Noise Reduction - is this only relevant for ANT? It seems like you can set it for each input but since the TV isn't actually "tuning" channels unless you are using ANT, what do people do here?

Thanks,
Eric

I just got back from viewing a 50" HLP at a local tweeter. It was right next to 50" HLN. They were both getting the same HDNet feed (via component).

The very first thing I noticed was that the picture on the HLN was much sharper than the HLP. I remember reading some posts here that mentioned the HLP picture as "softer" so I didn't worry about it too much. The more I looked at the two, the more I was concerned about the lack of sharpness on the HLP. (Just a note, I made sure that noise reduction and DNIe were off on both sets. The sharpness control was at a similar level in both.)

The sales guys at tweeter, tried changing cables and switching the source to a DVD via component - but still the same lack of sharpness. While they were switching stations, they came to a one displaying a channel listing (text) and I immediately ask him to leave that channel on. What I noticed was that the text at the top of the HLP display, say in the first two inches, was almost as sharp as the text on the HLN. But the sharpness of the text on the HLP decreased dramatically as you went down the screen. By the time you got to the bottom, the text was very blurry. The text on the HLN was uniformly sharp on the entire screen.

Just wondering, when other people say that the HLP is not as sharp as the HLN, is this the type of thing you are seeing? If so, I'll have to pass and hope the HD2+ tv's are better. Hopefully, this was just a bad egg....

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
-Chris

[

Just wondering, when other people say that the HLP is not as sharp as the HLN, is this the type of thing you are seeing? If so, I'll have to pass and hope the HD2+ tv's are better. Hopefully, this was just a bad egg....

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
-Chris [/B][/QUOTE]

I'm having a hard time understanding how folks seeing the HLP cannot prefer it over the HLN. Its a better set hands down. That sharpness you see on the HLN is overkill. Check out how text is displayed on each set.
The HLP display text very smooth, clear and natural, more closer to how text would look printed. The HLN display text with jaggies or like combing, a letter "V" for example has those stair steps. Those artifacts are all in the how the HLN display images as well, way too edgy.

The HLP has much better black level, still not as good as CRT, but much better than HLN and LCD's.

That sharpness you see on the HLN is overkill. Check out how text is displayed on each set.

The thing that concerned me most was that the text on the HLP was not displayed with the same uniform sharpness over the entire screen.

The text at the top was almost as sharp as the HLN and very satisfying to look at. It's just that when you got to the bottom of the screen, the text was very, very blurry. It was almost as if the text was in focus at the top of the screen and grew more and more out of focus toward the bottom...

Quick question: the partsolver (dot) com site lists a few parts for the HLP5063W, related to the lamp assembly, in particular a 120W bulb. Can anyone who has an HLP confirm this?

Chris,

There must have been something wrong with that HLP. I've been in three stores where the two were side-by-side or across the aisle from each other, and in every case it was the HLP that looked sharper with text.

The HLP has almost no screen door or jaggies, and the color transitions are smoother. The result is a "film-like softness" that some people view as a negative, but it looks more natural to me and most other people around here. There is certainly no less detail visible.

There will always be differences in the kind of images people like to watch and different opinions on what looks good or bad. I've been in homes where someone was really proud of their new set, and I had to resist the urge to gag and wrestle them for the remote to back off on sharpness and contrast.

In showrooms especially, you're at the mercy of bad lighting, dumb salesmen, and even dumber customers who play with the controls with no earthly idea what they're doing to the picture.

In my opinion, a calibrated HLN looks terrific and a calibrated HLP looks slightly more fabulous. I don't think you can go wrong with either.

I don't have my HLP yet but I'm wondering how to hook up the HDTV cablebox and the DVD player when there is only one DVI connection. Is one device going to have to use a component connection?

Connect one of them to the HDMI input using a DVI to HDMI cable.

Originally posted by batf
Connect one of them to the HDMI input using a DVI to HDMI cable.

I was going to get the DVI to HDMI cable at Best Buy and the salesman said he tried it and it didn't work. I got the DVI to DVI. Has anybody tried a DVI to HDMI cable?

The HR10-250 [DirecTV/Hughes HD TiVo] comes with an HDMI to HDMI cable and an HDMI to DVI cable. Presently, I'm hooked up to my HLN Sammy with the H2D cable. I unhook it and hookup my D2D cable from Sammy931 DVD player to the same DVI input.

Haven't gotten round to getting switch because -- new HLP arrives in a couple of weeks. Then, I'll be using H2H from the receiver/TiVo and D2D from the DVD player -- to the respective inputs on the HLP. The only extra required when doing H2D -- is you need a separate cable to S-Video for sound. The H2H carries both audio and video.

Phew! Is that enough capital letters?

Originally posted by jbliz
bgriffis, I had a hard time finding an affordable tv stand to fit all my gear (most of which not purchased yet, but in the works). I ended up deciding on this bush stand (http://www.bush-furniture-online.com/bush_VS74377-03.html)

It's 59" wide, so i figure I'll be able to fit 3 components per shelf for a total of six components and tv.


My brother got that stand from CC a few months ago with his HLN. He likes it a lot and so do I. I defintely want a stand that has two shelves not just one. I don't have room for equipment on the sides so everything I have needs to fit on the stand.

Originally posted by edwardacampbell
The only extra required when doing H2D -- is you need a separate cable to S-Video for sound. The H2H carries both audio and video.

Phew! Is that enough capital letters?

S-Video doesnt carry Audio.

Warren in MN

Uh, that's right. I meant the addition of a composite [left & right] for sound.

I have too damned many cables, already.

Originally posted by wittangamo
Chris,

There must have been something wrong with that HLP. I've been in three stores where the two were side-by-side or across the aisle from each other, and in every case it was the HLP that looked sharper with text.
...


Thanks wittangamo.

That was the kind of response I was hoping for. I really want to jump on the 61" in the PB. Unfortunately, the only place that I found with an HLP on display was the tweeter where I saw the "bad" one. Glad to know that you were able to compare the two in several locations and didn't see the same issue.

I'm in the PB for a 50" myself, and chomping at the bit to get it.

I've spent a fair amount of time staring at TVs at multiple CC, BB and Sears locations. CRT rear projectors are too big and bulky for my bedroom HT, and just don't look as crisp. Don't want (and can't afford) an HD plasma. I can see screen door and dead pixels on the LCD rear projectors, and the black levels look washed out.

The DLPs as a group look best to me. And when I rank them according to PQ, the HLP is #1, followed closely by the LG and the HLN. The RCA has some shortcomings I couldn't live with.

None of my local stores can touch the PB price. But the pages on the calendar before my scheduled ship date are turning so-o-o slo-o-ow ...

This is my first post to AVS, so bear with me....

I've been reading through the forum for the last couple of weeks, and finally decided on purchasing the HLP5063. Had it delivered last Tuesday and have had mixed emotions since.

For the most part, the pic it amazing. I’ve watched a movie a night since and thought Underworld and both the LOTR Extended versions looked great (running through the HD841 via DVI). Color seemed great, blacks were good, and overall was very happy. SD broadcast looks pretty decent, too, much better than the Sony CRT I owned for a couple of weeks....

On the downside, I have noticed significant rainbowing. I know that the HLP series was supposed to be better than the HLN, and I've only seen one other post about the rainbowing on HLPs, but to me it's been a pretty big deal. I sit ~10ft away from the screen, but can still notice the rainbows. Until today it was usually only during very dark scenes (Underworld) or scenes with high action on DVD, but just noticed it a number of times while watching a Ghostbusters on TBS, too.

Are there any adjustments that anyone can recommend to reduce rainbowing? I'd appreciate any advice.

For the most part I love the TV. Love the inputs, the pic is great, don't love the Picture in picture setup though, the sound is good and interface is nice so would really like to not have to exchange, but am still well with in my 30-day and if I can't either fix the rainbow issue or get used to it I may have to exchange for the Sony 50” LCD.

Thanks in advance!

PS bought it at local best buy for ~the PB$$. Little more and added tax, but got it next day.

Rainbows are a funny thing. Some people (like me) never see them. Others see them only when they try, shaking their heads, etc. A few see them all the time and find them so distracting they can't take it.

A search of this forum will reveal a lot of posts on the subject. The good news is that some people stop seeing them when they stop thinking about them.

My suggestion is to live with the set and appreciate its strengths for a few weeks. If you get close to your 30-day exchange window and are still bothered by it, swap it for a Sony GWIII and don't look back.

Originally posted by mklaessy
On the downside, I have noticed significant rainbowing.
You didn't say anything about your room lighting. Some people feel that a very dark room makes it easier for them to see rainbows. One thing they have tried is a back light. If you have been watching in the dark try increasing your room lighting.

If you haven't been trying to force the issue with a lot of head and eye movements then there isn't much you can do but use your 30 days to see if you notice them less.

Ten feet should be a good distance for a 50" screen but you can also try watching from a little further back to decrease eye movements.

Have you tried calibrating your set with DVE? Turning down the contrast and brightness, along with other proportional adjustments, may help. Even if you didn't see rainbows, the cal would be a good idea on a brand new micro-display.

Thanks for the pointers! I was hoping to find a "quick fix" for the problem, but I will try to mess with the lighting, calibrate the TV a little more, and just wait and see.

The lighting will be tough, because what's better than watching a great movie in a pitch black room on a big TV... well, lots of things, but that's the way I usually rock it. It's worth giving it a shot, though.

So far, I’ve only calibrated the TV with THX. I've been meaning to order the DVE disk, but keep putting it off. I'm against having to have things delivered, it's sort of a moral/lazy thing, but in this case I'll make the sacrifice. Seriously, sounds like a good idea, just too bad BB or CC don't stock them.

Finally, if it still disturbs me in a couple of weeks, I'll consider the trade of rainbow for possible screen door. Kind of a pain, but it's nice to have the option.

Two other questions:
1) Anybody figure out the best way to use this seemingly pointless Picture in Picture? It’s so odd that you can’t run it Ant1 and Ant2… guess I’m just used to doing that.
2) Has anyone else calibrated their HLP5063s yet? Just curious on settings: contrast, color, etc. Also, Standard vs. Cinema, warm 1 vs. cool 2 and all that. I know most of this is personal preference, but like I said I'm curious.


Thanks again.
-Mike

Originally posted by mklaessy
2) Has anyone else calibrated their HLP5063s yet? Just curious on settings: contrast, color, etc. Also, Standard vs. Cinema, warm 1 vs. cool 2 and all that. I know most of this is personal preference, but like I said
Pitch black rooms are perfect for rainbows and eye strain. A back light will make blacks look blacker too.

Here is one HLP setup thread just getting started. There are a few more setup posts in other threads. It's only been a couple of weeks since the first one was delivered.

HLP User Settings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3953939#post3953939)

Got my new 5063 delivered on Thursday. I have it connected to my three-year old A/V JVC receiver, D* 360 tuner, a three-year-old Panny DVD player (non-progressive) and a VCR player. I bought a Bush 48" stand to set it on, with four shelves for all my components. I'm using digital optical audio cable from the 360 to the A/V receiver; DVI video from the 360 to the tv; component video from the DVD player to the tv; Digital coax audio from the
DVD player to the A/V receiver. I haven't tried using the VCR, since we almost never use it any more.

So far, I am happy with the picture. I watched LOTR-ROTK last night and the picture and sound were both excellent! I have noticed a slight discrepancy in sound and picture when receiving digital TV, but don't think it's enough to bother me.

The only other thing that is somewhat annoying is the constant hum of the motor, very noticeable if sitting directly in front of the set, but not very noticeable if sitting three-four feet away from center.

I'm thinking about replacing my older components, one at a time, starting with the DVD player, maybe with the 941 due out "sometime soon."

I've had my 50" DLP since Tuesday and have watched nothing but SD. I guess I'm not one of those people prone to noticing rainbows and I think the PQ (even with a SD signal) is excellent. No lip-sync problems either. This is one happy camper here.

I'm looking forward to getting VOOMed tomorrow and seeing what this set can really do.

Can these new HLP's be tweaked or avia calibrated to get a sharper more crisp picture, I seen 3 sets at 3 different locations and the PQ looks flat kind of washed out, even when hook-up to a Samsung HD-841 with DVI.
I am having second thoughts about the Hlp6163 on pre-order with TVA.
I wish they made a 61" HD2+ model.

Joe V.

Yes!!! Consider Avia or DVE an essential purchase when (before) your new set arrives. Then try the HD841. ;)

Originally posted by mklaessy
I'm against having to have things delivered, it's sort of a moral/lazy thing, but in this case I'll make the sacrifice. Seriously, sounds like a good idea, just too bad BB or CC don't stock them.


If you lived where I did, you would quickly change your "morality" or "laziness" stance. My wife and i get 90% of anything we want to buy delivered.

No BB, No CC, No Target, No Walmart, etc. You get the idea.

The PowerBuy free "delivery" is a GREAT option for us. We would have to drive 4 hours to the nearest electronic store (one-way).

Warren in MN (Extreme, Cold, Northern MN)

Originally posted by Kaysadea
I've had my 50" DLP since Tuesday and have watched nothing but SD. I guess I'm not one of those people prone to noticing rainbows and I think the PQ (even with a SD signal) is excellent. No lip-sync problems either. This is one happy camper here.

I'm looking forward to getting VOOMed tomorrow and seeing what this set can really do.

I too am getting VOOMED tomorrow. After hearing all the horror stories about delays and installers not showing up, I am glad I have talked to my installer. He has the equipment and will be here in the morning.

Warren in MN

I had an opportunity to play with the hlp5063 some more this weekend. I played a little xbox (gorgeous!), watched some SD DirecTV (not so gorgeous...), hooked up the Denon DVD-2200 from upstairs and watched Shrek (DEAR GOD IT'S GOOD). These impressions are coming from someone who does most of his viewing on an old Sony Wega 32XBR400. It took me a while to notice the rainbowing, but I caught it once when I looked over at something at a 90 degree angle to me quickly, and after that I discovered I could make it appear if I purposefully move my eyes fast or shake my head a bit. But I doubt I would ever notice it in the course of normal viewing.

Originally posted by MNBugeater
I too am getting VOOMED tomorrow. After hearing all the horror stories about delays and installers not showing up, I am glad I have talked to my installer. He has the equipment and will be here in the morning.

Warren in MN

I've also confirmed that my installer "Crave Electronics," has the equipment. FYI, I made the "mistake" of insisting on a second coax cable, which apparently isn't necessary with the latest equipment. This is what I know so far:

http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=19868

Hope this helps you avoid unnecessary stress with your installer.

Originally posted by ninthdragon
Yes!!! Consider Avia or DVE an essential purchase when (before) your new set arrives. Then try the HD841. ;)

I also have the Avia disk, I used it on our HLN567 and it does help with the PQ, but the HLN looked sharper right out of the box where as the HLP doesn't. Have you seen a calibrated HLP yet? I guess I will keep monitoring this forum for more information on the sharpness issue. Thanks for the response... Joe V.

Well, after having my new hlp for about a week, I have two problems:
1) smudges that come and go from the screen.
2) A/V sync issue through component inputs for OTA HD.

I've seen other reports of both items, anyone decide how to fix either? or do I just send it back?

Originally posted by jacobms1
Well, after having my new hlp for about a week, I have two problems:
1) smudges that come and go from the screen.
2) A/V sync issue through component inputs for OTA HD.

I've seen other reports of both items, anyone decide how to fix either? or do I just send it back?

1) I also have some smudges on the right side of my screen. I have noticed that they only really appear the first time I turn the set on in the morning and typically go away completely after maybe 15 mins. I can then turn the set off for a few hours and turn it back on without them reappearing. I'm definitley not thrilled about the fact that they exist but certainly not a major problem as far as I'm concerned. Would love to know if anyone has figured out a way to make then totally go away. When you do seem them, it looks as if you spilled something on the inside of the screen - not pretty.

2) Can't comment.

Originally posted by jwv651
I also have the Avia disk, I used it on our HLN567 and it does help with the PQ, but the HLN looked sharper right out of the box where as the HLP doesn't. Have you seen a calibrated HLP yet? I guess I will keep monitoring this forum for more information on the sharpness issue. Thanks for the response... Joe V.

I just received my Avia disk. My 5063 should be here by the end of the week. I will take some pics before and after calibration to do an out of box view vs. calibrated view.

Warren in MN

Originally posted by MNBugeater
I just received my Avia disk. My 5063 should be here by the end of the week. I will take some pics before and after calibration to do an out of box view vs. calibrated view.

Warren in MN

Would be interested to know your settings when you are finished.

How's the viewing angle on this tv? I was at Magnolia HiFi and the tv looked real bad (dark) until I went up and down to be centered on the screen vertically. It seemed like a real narrow viewing angle. like 30deg (15deg up and down from 0). Anything above and below that made the screen dark.

Thanks!

Originally posted by cedosada
How's the viewing angle on this tv? I was at Magnolia HiFi and the tv looked real bad (dark) until I went up and down to be centered on the screen vertically. It seemed like a real narrow viewing angle. like 30deg (15deg up and down from 0). Anything above and below that made the screen dark.

Thanks!

That doesn't sound like ANY DLP monitor. Sounds more like a characteristic of a RPTV.

Warren in MN

Based on what I've seen and read here the vertical viewing angle is narrow on all RPTV sets -- CRT, LCD, or DLP. The LCD and DLP sets have wider horizontal viewing angles than the CRT sets.

Plasma and direct view CRT sets have very wide viewing angles in all directions.

OK, I finally got my HLP5063 up and running over the weekend. Setup was pretty straightforward. Here are some initial observations:

Overall, the picture is so-so on SD; not bad considering I am running through "composite" video. This will change tomorrow when the Adelphia installer comes with my HD cable box. I've already been forwarned that the DVI port is not yet active, but even going up to component should result in a PQ upgrade.

I have not seen any of the smudges reported on other posts. I did, however, see my first rainbows (watching the Padres game, saw rainbows on the blue uniform lettering against the white uniforms). Not a bother at all . . .

My biggest concern thus far is that I have observed sporadic A/V sync problems, primarily from some of the network stations (NBC in particular). Again, I will withold final judgement until I get the new cable box. The sync issue is not consistant.

The DVD quaility is very good through component, and I expect it to get even better when I upgrade to the HD-841 and start using the DVI connection.

I worked with the user menu and was able to tweak the Cinema settings so they looked pretty good. I ordered the DVE disk, and hope to further refine the settings once I start playing with it.

Has anyone yet braved the system menu on the HLP sets?

For those who are having A/V sync issues, how do you have your audio set up? Specifically is the sync problem coming from the TV's speakers or do you have the audio from your source going to a receiver to seperate speakers?

For those who have had smudge issues, I'm wondering if it might be some sort of condensation on the optics since it reportedly goes away after the set is on (warms up). Has anyone not had it go away totally after a few days?

For those that own the HLP5063 already, where was your tv manufactured? I've gone through two of them and they both have been made in Mexico. Anyone received one made in Korea? Don't bash me on anything but I rather have it built in a country with higher quality control; like it's original manufacturing plant.

I have not seen any rainbows on my set but everytime I change the channel on cable it is fuzzy at first then clears up. Any solution? I have direct feed- no cable box. Is there anything to do to clear up staight cable pictures?(NBC etc.)

For those who are having A/V sync issues, how do you have your audio set up? Specifically is the sync problem coming from the TV's speakers or do you have the audio from your source going to a receiver to seperate speakers?

Running from the source through a Pioneer VSX-D812K receiver and seperate speakers.

BTW, I'm not at all convinced that this is strictly a problem with the TV. I need to go through the long A/V Sync thread to review other people's experiences with the HLN's, as well as do some additional experimenting on my own. My guess is that there are a combination of factors for this.

Originally posted by rycsoul

My biggest concern thus far is that I have observed sporadic A/V sync problems, primarily from some of the network stations (NBC in particular). Again, I will withold final judgement until I get the new cable box. The sync issue is not consistant.


Has anyone yet braved the system menu on the HLP sets?

I have had my HLP since 6/11 and have not any problems with AV sync on any channel or source.

I did post where I had dancing red dots and Samsung came out replaced the Digi-board and fixed that problem. Their service has actually been great.

While the service tech was there, we were talking about the SM and he claimed that the system records the codes of who logs in and that while the standard Mute-182... works it is not the service code that they use and
if they can look in the log and if there is any code other than the proper service code, then the warranty is void. He told me this before I mentioned anything avout AVS or "Mute-182....".

Don't know if this is just a scare tactic or not.

Now for the bad news. I must have a lemon. A few hours after he left, all of a sudden I had white vertical lines evenly spaced every 1 1/2 inch apart. If I turned it off then turned it back on, they would go away. They appear randomly. Now they are planning on replacing the DMD board and light engine. I will be there when it does it and will try to take some pics and post.

One other observation for me was that I too thought at first the HLP's were less sharp than the HLN's. However, after about a week of watching it, I believe that it is getting better. I don't know if there is a break-in period or not. I have read comments from other here that tend to support this as well.

TVA is supposed to be shipping my replacement Wednesday.

I have had my TV for about a week now, recieved it last Tuesday. Still did not recieve the stand in the bundle, so it is currently on a cardboard box... but it works! Anyway down to the TV...
It arrived 20 minutes before the Comcast installer for HD, so this TV hasnt seen cable through anything but DVI for the most part (my PIP is svideo off of my Tivo)
I was prepared for the iffy SD quality and when i turned it on it is definintely livable, of course not as good as the 27" Wega I had, but this is a given, and the size makes up for it... all in all it wont get complaints. Tune to the HD channels... man, amazing, this is my first HD set and my first big screen so i cant compare to others, but its amazing, I love TV again... was gonna Voom but have since cancelled my installation due to Comcast having more then enough channels for me.
-- I got a brand new momitsu v880 for use for the TV and have watched about 5 movies so far on the TV and it looks incredible compared to my 5 year old Onkyo DVD player. I have NOT had any audio sync problems anywhere, and I pay attention for it...
-- I have not had any problems with colors (Red/Green), I just ran through the AVIA disk and it looks a little better... much easier on the eyes, and looks closer to how i feel it should
-- No issues with red dots
-- No issues with rainbows, but i dont often watch TV and shake my head... I look back and forth, etc, but dont see any issues on rainbows
-- Connecting up PS2 have not noticed anything wrong with it. Looks awesome too, i have not tried any FPS yet, and i will try when i get home to see if I get any problems, but most of my gaming isnt FPS...
-- Connecting up Xbox in the near future, so can report on that later.
-- No smudges on the TV now or when I got it (seems like i may have been lucky?)

Cant remember any of the other issues... but so far I love the TV, now if the stand would finally get delivered!

now if the stand would finally get delivered!

I sure don't like hearing that your stand didn't arrive with the TV. When I placed my order for the PB I specifically asked if they expected I would receive the stand at same time received the TV. They indicated should be no problem. I am either going to have to take time off work or get some one to wait for delivery of the TV as it is. I sure hope not going to have to do it again for the stand as well. Sigh......

yeah, i believe from what they said at TVA they should be arriving this week... so then yours could be in at the same time... i will be glad to get this thing on a nice stand than the bottom of the box it came in! :P

I got the good folks at Samsung and BB to agree to swap my HLN for a new set of my choosing some time ago (after 4 Technician visits, one light engine replacement and a second lens swap); didn't want another HLN5065W and BB didn't seem to be getting the "Malibu chassis" - i.e. 5065W1, so I kept waiting and today they had an HLP on the floor.

Thought I'd roll the dice again and try the 2004-HLP-Sammy-problem-set since I've just about mastered the 2003-HLN-problems (and am now fully conversant re IR, AVsync, rainbow, etc).

The HLP is coming next Wednesday.

Can anyone tell me whether the HLP SM is same/similar as the HLN? Any obvious tweaks I should jump on?

BTW, Just got a Motorola DCT6200 from Comcast and tried DVI output for HD channels (ESPN-HD and INHD2) - definitely better shadow/midtone detail & more-accurate color. I'm anxious to do the component vs. DVI test more critically on the HLP.

Originally posted by EricScott
1) I also have some smudges on the right side of my screen. I have noticed that they only really appear the first time I turn the set on in the morning and typically go away completely after maybe 15 mins. I can then turn the set off for a few hours and turn it back on without them reappearing. I'm definitley not thrilled about the fact that they exist but certainly not a major problem as far as I'm concerned. Would love to know if anyone has figured out a way to make then totally go away. When you do seem them, it looks as if you spilled something on the inside of the screen - not pretty.


See my post earlier in this thread.

Originally posted by s.bradford
See my post earlier in this thread.

And that totally eliminated the smudges? I'll give it a shot. Did you just go over the area where the smudges were with the towel or the entire screen?

I tried this and it did not seem to really help much. I could still see the smudges until about an hour later. I have still not seen anyone comment as to whether this is something that eventually goes away or is it going to be there for the life of the TV. My problem is that I may only get to watch this TV for about 2-3 hrs a night and have to look at smudges for at least an hour of that time! I am still wondering if I should try exchanging once within my 30 days with Sound Track.

Originally posted by TexasAggie
Now for the bad news. I must have a lemon. A few hours after he left, all of a sudden I had white vertical lines evenly spaced every 1 1/2 inch apart. If I turned it off then turned it back on, they would go away. They appear randomly. Now they are planning on replacing the DMD board and light engine...
Same thing happened to my set. Arrived Tuesday and about half the time had the vertical stripes. Lots of reboots but only temporary fixes. I've seen A/V sync issues where the video lagged and a few times it decided to do its own pause. Tonight only video garbage being displayed.

I reported the problems to Samsung & TVA. Both were very helpful. Either Tuesday or Wednesday, a Samsung service rep will replace the engine, after work no less. If that doesn't fix it, TVA is ready to swap out the unit. All this quality service has appeased the wife's worries of buying this over the internet.

My only worry is will it be available to watch the Longhorns in the CWS. Go Horns.

Originally posted by EricScott
And that totally eliminated the smudges? I'll give it a shot. Did you just go over the area where the smudges were with the towel or the entire screen?

Yes it absolutely eliminated them. You do end up going around the whole screen.

Put the set in blue screen mode and select an input whose source is off. That will make it easy to see the smudges (a still frame of a cartoon or other light solid color background is also good). Start on the sides where the smudges occur. Press in and that will remove most of them. Then go around the whole screen while looking at the smudges and you will see the rest of them dissappear as you flex the various areas of the screen in and out. Don't be afraid to push in a bit (the screen is quite flexible, especially near the center).

The only think I can figure is the way the screen is mounted/clamped into the housing allows for some pinching at the sides, which makes for some contact between the back of the lens and some membrane or other layer immediately behind it. This seems to be exacerbated when it is cold as things tend to contract under those circumstances.

I noticed this right away while watching the Simpsons on my first HLN 507. Doing the towel trick fixed it completely the first time. My second HLN had the same problem to a lesser degree, and while the first time I did this it removed the smudges, they came back to a lesser extent a day or two later (it has been pretty warm here during the day so I leave windows open at night and things really cool off). After two or three "towel" sessions all seem to be well now. It also helps keep the screen clean.

BTW... if you are using a really soft high quality towel, I notice fingerprints and the like can easily be removed from this surface by just fogging the prints with your breath and using the towel. No water or anything else required. Wish my glasses cleaned up this nice!

Hey TexasAggie,

I had the vertical lines as you on my HLN 507 from the first powerbuy a year and a half ago. They went away after a few days and have never returned.

They offerred to replace my set, but since there were so many other reported problems I didn't want to take a chance with the replacement. It's been a great set.

Ken
(Aggie class of '87)

Originally posted by KenLand
Hey TexasAggie,

I had the vertical lines as you on my HLN 507 from the first powerbuy a year and a half ago. They went away after a few days and have never returned.

They offerred to replace my set, but since there were so many other reported problems I didn't want to take a chance with the replacement. It's been a great set.

Ken
(Aggie class of '87)

Mine has stopped as well. It only happened 3 times and has not done it since Saturday.

TVA is still sending me a replacement set Wednesday.

Gig em!!!

(Aggie class of '86)

Originally posted by gcubed
-- Connecting up PS2 have not noticed anything wrong with it. Looks awesome too, i have not tried any FPS yet, and i will try when i get home to see if I get any problems, but most of my gaming isnt FPS...
-- Connecting up Xbox in the near future, so can report on that later.


What generation/model/etc is your PS2? Both of the PS2s I have are fairly old, and I suppose it'd be slightly better if it were a problem with the PS2s and not a problem with the TV (although i'm going to hook one of them up to my other TV tomorrow and see what happens) see... the thing that convinces me is that I didn't have this problem with my PS2s with my old TV... but yes, let me know when you try an FPS, as those kinds of games would make button lag more evident. Or better yet, rent a rhythm game like DDR and see if the button pressing/timing/video is in sync with the sound. yeah. please? =)

thou I am not a customer of TVA on Sammy HLP PB yet.
the great service TVA provides probably is the key reason TVA is the official AVS PB sponsor. :)

Originally posted by TexasAggie
TVA was even better. They said that even if Samsung repairs it that TVA would ship the first one from the next batch to me to replace this bad one.
I hope this does not make anyone mad that is waiting for one.

but TVA seems to really have made an effort to make me happy.

Well after my first day of veiwing my HLP5063, I don't have much too complain about. :) My only gripes so far (which can be fixed) are.

1. My center speaker which sits on my stand in front of the set, blocks the IR receiver. I will resolve this with an IR extender that I already have.

2. When switching inputs, there is a bit of a delay before an image is displayed including the text to show which input you are on. This can probably be resolved with discrete codes (there seems to be an almost complete list in another thread). As is though it is a bit annoying when trying to cycle through inputs.

Not really an issue, but an observation. I have a Pioneer DVF727 300 disc DVD changer that is non-progressive. I had been using an iScan Pro with it for line doubling in conjunction with my projector. The iScan Pro did an excellent job. I was curious to see which worked better, the iScan or the Samsung's built in doubler. After going back and forth viewing discs that are know for producing a variety of artifacts (without a decent doubler) I was not able to notice any real difference. Now, the iScan does have a few extra picture controls, but nothing that can't be equally tweaked directly on the TV. So, my opinion is that the Samsung does at least as good of a job as the iScan. So those who only have a non-progressive DVD player should be able to get a decent picture.

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
Well after my first day of veiwing my HLP5063, I don't have much too complain about. :) My only gripes so far (which can be fixed) are.

1. My center speaker which sits on my stand in front of the set, blocks the IR receiver. I will resolve this with an IR extender that I already have.


You may want to try using a universal remote. I also have my center channel directly in front of the HLP and found the Samsung remote to be pretty weak. With my MX 500 I have no problems whatsoever.


2. When switching inputs, there is a bit of a delay before an image is displayed including the text to show which input you are on. This can probably be resolved with discrete codes (there seems to be an almost complete list in another thread). As is though it is a bit annoying when trying to cycle through inputs.



Even with the discrete codes you still have this delay. I think the delay is more pronounced on DVI than the other inputs with S-Video being pretty short. Not a big deal to me. Make sure you have the blue screen option on and it briefly goes to the blue screen, displays the text with the correct input an then the signal comes in.

Originally posted by EricScott
Even with the discrete codes you still have this delay. I think the delay is more pronounced on DVI than the other inputs with S-Video being pretty short. Not a big deal to me. Make sure you have the blue screen option on and it briefly goes to the blue screen, displays the text with the correct input an then the signal comes in. [/B]

Thanks! this was also a little annoyance for me, but this would fix it for me. I guess after getting used to it, i will know which inputs i should be expecting to come next.

Also I have Frequency at home for the PS2, just a demo, but should be good enough to get an idea if there is any lag. I have the first gen PS2, got it the day it came out and its still going strong.

Originally posted by gcubed

...so this TV hasnt seen cable through anything but DVI for the most part (my PIP is svideo off of my Tivo) ...


Can you confirm that you can watch a DVI input on main screen with an S-Video feed in the PIP ??

I read the manual and was under the impression that the PIP was only available with the ANT feeds.

I would be really happy if you can indeed run DVI and S-Vid PIP. My TiVo will also be feed via S-Vid and VOOM on DVI.

Warren in MN

Originally posted by MNBugeater
Can you confirm that you can watch a DVI input on main screen with an S-Video feed in the PIP ??

I read the manual and was under the impression that the PIP was only available with the ANT feeds.

I would be really happy if you can indeed run DVI and S-Vid PIP. My TiVo will also be feed via S-Vid and VOOM on DVI.

Warren in MN

Yes - you can keep DVI in the main window only. You can then run S-Video in the subwindow in one of two sizes - small and a "medium". Works fine.

If you have component in the main window, you can run S-Video in the subwindow in one of four sizes - small and medium sub, full screen split and letterboxed split (not sure if these descriptions are accurate or helpful but you get the idea).

PC apparently behaves the same way as DVI.

yes, i use my svideo connection with Tivo to watch PIP... the only issue is that you cant swap between DVI and s-video (considering DVI/PC/Component cant be viewed in the PIP window, this is expected), so you either have to tune to that channel when the program you want comes back on, or switch inputs if you want.

Originally posted by EricScott
You may want to try using a universal remote. I also have my center channel directly in front of the HLP and found the Samsung remote to be pretty weak. With my MX 500 I have no problems whatsoever.


I am using an MX-500, but the speaker is pretty much right up against the TV.


Originally posted by EricScott
Even with the discrete codes you still have this delay. I think the delay is more pronounced on DVI than the other inputs with S-Video being pretty short. Not a big deal to me. Make sure you have the blue screen option on and it briefly goes to the blue screen, displays the text with the correct input an then the signal comes in.

The discrete codes may not help with the delay, but with them you can directly select what input you want, thus eliminating the issue (when having to cylce through them all). I'll try turning the blue screen on. It sounds like that may help with identifying the selected input sooner. As is, you press the button and have to wait a few seconds before any text is displayed to see what input you have selected.

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
I am using an MX-500, but the speaker is pretty much right up against the TV.




The discrete codes may not help with the delay, but with them you can directly select what input you want, thus eliminating the issue (when having to cylce through them all). I'll try turning the blue screen on. It sounds like that may help with identifying the selected input sooner. As is, you press the button and have to wait a few seconds before any text is displayed to see what input you have selected.

You will still have that delay before the text appears but at least you'll be looking at a nice birght blue screen and as you pointed out won't have to wait to get to the correct input. Once I got my MX 500 setup it became far more enjoyable to use the TV. I run all of my audio through my Onkyo receiver and all of the video through the Samsung. I set up the device key macros to switch the inputs on the receiver and the DLP to the proper selections - works great. One thing that didn't work too well was I tried to set each of the device macros so that it first does a discrete on for the Samsung. Problem is that it takes the Samsung a few seconds to come on before it can accept input changes and even inserting four seconds of pauses a few times in the macro didn't work too well. I decided that since I will usually have the TV on and be switching inputs that I would leave this step out of the macro. Who wants to wait 10 secs for the macro to work anyway.

I guess you have already seen the discrete code thread that I started. Refer to this post for the list of OFA advanced codes I've gotten to work so far. Still missing ANT, Video-2 and HDMI, but I don't use any of those currenlty so it doesn't bother me.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3947284#post3947284

Anyone using the HDMI input on there HLP?

I am planning on using it for the new 941 when it comes out. Just curious if anyone has any experience with this input with another device.

Thanks

Warren in MN

Originally posted by EricScott
I guess you have already seen the discrete code thread that I started. Refer to this post for the list of OFA advanced codes I've gotten to work so far. Still missing ANT, Video-2 and HDMI, but I don't use any of those currenlty so it doesn't bother me.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=3947284#post3947284

Yes, and thanks for getting that thread going. Unfortunately I misplaced my OFA and need to go pick up another one. Luckily they are cheap.

I can relate to your 'power on macro' problem. My old Mitsubishi RPTV would take a few seconds to power on too. And whenever there was a power failure, it defaulted to Ant input. When that happened, my wife could never figure out how to get it back where it should be. :) So I set the MX-500 power on macro to pause, then send the discrete video 1 signal. It worked great except that you can't use the remote while the macro is executing and many times I would be in a rush to try and change a channel or something.

Originally posted by Mark Lopez
[

1. My center speaker which sits on my stand in front of the set, blocks the IR receiver. I will resolve this with an IR extender that I already have.
[/B]

I've been reading posts about the HLP in several threads and haven't given up the idea of trying to find a way to rest the center speaker on top of the set. I know that there are substances something like clay, but not clay, used in museums and some jewelry stores that allow you fix an item to a display so that it won't fall over. Don't know what the name is. I'm wondering if a series of small balls of this material would sufficiently hold a not too large speaker. Is there anyone reading this thread who has experience with this material? One concern would be whether the heat coming from the set would alter the composition of the material and then harm the bezel or shell of the speaker.

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
I've been reading posts about the HLP in several threads and haven't given up the idea of trying to find a way to rest the center speaker on top of the set. I know that there are substances something like clay, but not clay, used in museums and some jewelry stores that allow you fix an item to a display so that it won't fall over. Don't know what the name is. I'm wondering if a series of small balls of this material would sufficiently hold a not too large speaker. Is there anyone reading this thread who has experience with this material? One concern would be whether the heat coming from the set would alter the composition of the material and then harm the bezel or shell of the speaker.

There is a post either in this thread or the Official power thread that has a few shelves that mount very nicely on the top to provide a ledge for a center channel. Thats what I plan on doing...

Warren in MN

I currently have a Bose VCS10 sitting on top of my HLP5063. It seemed to be pretty stable just balancing on top of the TV but just to be safe I ran a strip of velcro across the top. Works good with this center channel but may be more difficult with a larger/heavier speaker.

Originally posted by MNBugeater
There is a post either in this thread or the Official power thread that has a few shelves that mount very nicely on the top to provide a ledge for a center channel. Thats what I plan on doing...

Warren in MN

Looking at these stands it seems that the slope is too steep on the back of the HLP's for the rear legs to reach. They seem to only be 8" long and from the ones I have seen I do not think you can move them forward enough.

Originally posted by Panic 66
I currently have a Bose VCS10 sitting on top of my HLP5063. It seemed to be pretty stable just balancing on top of the TV but just to be safe I ran a strip of velcro across the top. Works good with this center channel but may be more difficult with a larger/heavier speaker.

How did you attach the velcro to the HLP set? Is it self sticking ?

Originally posted by jbarbbcuny
How did you attach the velcro to the HLP set? Is it self sticking ?

Yes. I figured if I ever wanted to go with another option the velcro strips should be fairly easy to remove and I could use some rubbing alchohol if needed to get rid of any adhesive left behind. I will post a pic when I get a chance.

Originally posted by Panic 66
Looking at these stands it seems that the slope is too steep on the back of the HLP's for the rear legs to reach. They seem to only be 8" long and from the ones I have seen I do not think you can move them forward enough.

I have the HLP and would would have to agree with the above statement. I have a computer monitor shelf and it wouldn't even be close. Seeing pictures of the other suggested shelfs, I fear they would suffer the same result.

BTW, I am contemplating building a shelf suspended from the ceiling.

i was going to put the center channel on the first shelf below the TV on the stand. I saw the mounting kit that goes on top of the TV and was interested in that, but if the feet dont fit on the TV thats bad news :( Another option is the mounting kit to mount it to the wall directly above the TV, but thats more of a semi permanent option

I am going to use this for my Polk center:

http://www.btech-usa.com/bt15.html

I just did a google search for "museum display supplies" and found this site:
http://www.benchmarkcatalog.com/main-misc.htm
at the very bottom of the page it lists "sticky wax". There are some caveats. Click on the word "reminder". It has potential but but I'm concerned about the effect of warmth over a long period time. They refer to it as dental wax so I guess I should talk to my dentist. Velcro still sounds better.

How about liquid nails???:)

I heard JB Weld is good stuff !!! :D

Just ask Paul Harvey :rolleyes:


Warren in MN

What are the differences between HD2+ adn HD3 and which Samsung has which>

Originally posted by wilberking
What are the differences between HD2+ adn HD3 and which Samsung has which>
HLP sets with the HD3 chip, seven element color wheel, a Contrast Ratio of 1,500:1, and each mirror on the chip controls two pixels on the screen:

HLPxx63 where xx = 46", 50", 56", and 61"

HLP sets with the HD2+ chip, seven element color wheel, a Contrast Ratio of 2,500:1, integrated HD tuner with Cable Card, and each mirror on the chip controls one pixel on the screen:

HLPxx77 where xx = 46", and 56" (thin bezel case)
HLPxx85 where xx = 50", and 56" (pedestal models)

Originally posted by MNBugeater
I heard JB Weld is good stuff !!! :D

Just ask Paul Harvey :rolleyes:


Warren in MN

That will probably work Warren.... but you can't beat 4" screws & a powerdrill........... :D

Here is a pic of the Bose VCS10 velcro option! I would appreciate any comments on whether I need to be concerned with the speaker sitting in top of the HLP in this fashion. Below are the dims & weight on this center channel.

6" x 21.5" x 3.25" 9.7 pounds

Looks good, Panic. The Bose center channel you have is shielded so I don't see a problem. BTW, how tall is your TV stand?

Originally posted by GSOgymrat
Looks good, Panic. The Bose center channel you have is shielded so I don't see a problem. BTW, how tall is your TV stand?

Shielding is irrelevant on a DLP set anyway :)

The stand is 25" tall. It is a cheapo stand I bought at BB a couple years ago for around $150.00. It actually works pretty good with the 5063 especially when you have a 1 yr old and 4 yr old at home. The glass doors and higher height come in very handy! Also since we have it in the basement I do not have the WAF to worry about.

Originally posted by Panic 66
Here is a pic of the Bose VCS10 velcro option! I would appreciate any comments on whether I need to be concerned with the speaker sitting in top of the HLP in this fashion. Below are the dims & weight on this center channel.

6" x 21.5" x 3.25" 9.7 pounds

That's the same speaker I have. Personally I would not have put it up there, but it's your set. :) I would probably try to anchor the speaker wire somehow so that just in case it does decide to take a forward leap, it doesn't fall and then smack into your screen when it runs out of slack.

Thanks Mark, that sounds like a good idea. The velcro strip is about 16" long so it seems pretty secure. I seems like it would take a serious blow to get it to fall but you never know, especially with kids. My only other option with my current stand is to mount it on the wall above the TV. I am a little concerned with what it would sound like up that high.

With the tv being on a 24" stand does it look okay when you are sitting on the floor? I am going to build a stand for my DLP 50" to contain my equipment and I'm concerned about making it too tall, since DLPs don't have a great vertical viewing angle.

Not bad although I rarely watch from the floor myself. Eye level from the futon at 10' away is not mid screen. It is more like in the bottom 3rd of the screen and looks no different when sitting up a little higher. You definitely see the difference from the floor though.

Originally posted by GSOgymrat
With the tv being on a 24" stand does it look okay when you are sitting on the floor? I am going to build a stand for my DLP 50" to contain my equipment and I'm concerned about making it too tall, since DLPs don't have a great vertical viewing angle.

My stand is 19" tall. From 11 feet back, I moved my head all the way down to the floor and noticed only a very slight decrease in PQ. So, IMO a 24" stand will be fine while sitting on the floor.

Originally posted by gcubed
Thanks! this was also a little annoyance for me, but this would fix it for me. I guess after getting used to it, i will know which inputs i should be expecting to come next.

Also I have Frequency at home for the PS2, just a demo, but should be good enough to get an idea if there is any lag. I have the first gen PS2, got it the day it came out and its still going strong.

Have you tested this yet? I'm kind of eager to hear the results. Actually, I also have frequency, but I haven't played it recently since I don't really play it often, and I noticed the lag with ALL of my other games, so... yeah.

Originally posted by jfischer
Shielding is irrelevant on a DLP set anyway :)

Is this true? I think on one of the papers that comes with the manual it says to "keep the television away from large appliances with a magnetic field, such as a vacuum", or some wording to that effect.


Does anyone notice the little black dots on the screen when you get close? Manual says they are normal and don't effect performance, but I seem to have quite a few.

bojangling - I think the shielding statement is a carryover for CRT manuals. This was discussed about a year ago when someone noticed the same thing when the HLN sets started coming out.

Describe the little black dots a little more. I have an HLN, so you can see the lines between the mirrors/pixels, but the HLP/HD3 technology is different, and I haven't taken a closeup look at the screen.

Has anyone hooked up XBox with a component connectionon a HLP? Any problems?

Originally posted by GSOgymrat
Has anyone hooked up XBox with a component connectionon a HLP? Any problems?

Yes and it looks great. Just be sure to change the display options in the MS Dash.

Originally posted by gakon
bojangling - I think the shielding statement is a carryover for CRT manuals. This was discussed about a year ago when someone noticed the same thing when the HLN sets started coming out.

Describe the little black dots a little more. I have an HLN, so you can see the lines between the mirrors/pixels, but the HLP/HD3 technology is different, and I haven't taken a closeup look at the screen.


The black dots are only noticeable when you are a very close to the screen, i.e. less than a few feet. It almost looks like a gnat has landed on the screen, but when you try and wipe it off, you see its under the screen. The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.

Originally posted by Panic 66
Here is a pic of the Bose VCS10 velcro option! I would appreciate any comments on whether I need to be concerned with the speaker sitting in top of the HLP in this fashion. Below are the dims & weight on this center channel.

6" x 21.5" x 3.25" 9.7 pounds
Hey, Panic I think the Velcro thing is a great idea. My concern lies in the angle of the speaker it looks like it is aimed at the ceiling? I have messed with these HT systems for a while now and have found that having the ctr. speaker pointed slightly toward the viewing area really helps in its clarity, volume etc. especially in dialog scenes.

It not as bad as it looks in the picture. I have one rubber bumper on the backside to help the angle. I may add another though since it is pretty adjustable as far as the angle goes. Thanks!

Originally posted by Evil-Rage
Have you tested this yet? I'm kind of eager to hear the results. Actually, I also have frequency, but I haven't played it recently since I don't really play it often, and I noticed the lag with ALL of my other games, so... yeah.

Ok, sorry for the delay, but i just popped frequency in, and figured thats probably one of the best tests for delay... i was scared at first, but then i realized i just sucked... after i got the hang of it again and my fingers figured out what was what, i had no problems with button pressing and delay to what is on the screen. I am running the PS2 to component1 and audio to my onkyo reciever. Now that my eyes are refocused i can continue playing my slow RPGs :D Hope that answers your question... as far as i could tell i didnt notice any lag to the game.

Just got my 5063 - overall, very happy with it! SD is OK, HD is fair to excellent - content really varies. DVDs are exceptional! At least compared to what I was used to.

Anyway, the only issue is that how HD is displayed varies greatly between channels. I have Comcast - Motorola 6200 STB. Have it set for 720P, 16:9 & output through component (don't have a DVI cable yet - will try this soon). TV is set to "wide".

My HD HBO feed displays full width, but a very "short" image - has around 4" bars on top & bottom. The network HD feeds (ABC, CBS, NBC) have around 4" bars on top, bottom & maybe 3" on the sides. Starz looks great - just thin bars on top & bottom. PBS HD is also great - small bars top & bottom - as are INHD1 & 2. Why is HBO & the network feeds so different? How can I get a consistent (& fuller/wider) image? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

TIA!

Barry

Got a novice question I was hoping someone can answer.

If I have a non-progressive DVD player (1st gen. Toshiba), and I connect it to the component output of the HLP, does the Faroudja on the TV set 'convert' the image into a progressive picture? Or do I need to buy a progressive dvd player?

thx!

Originally posted by daumier
If I have a non-progressive DVD player (1st gen. Toshiba), and I connect it to the component output of the HLP, does the Faroudja on the TV set 'convert' the image into a progressive picture? Or do I need to buy a progressive dvd player?

thx!
That's exactly what the Faroudja chip is for. In most cases you would have to spend a significant amount of money to get better PQ through the component inputs of your TV.

DVI or HDMI input is another matter. At some point you may want a new upscaling DVI or HDMI enabled DVD player. Right now they start at around $200 but they all seem to have some problems. There should be new ones in the $200 - $350 range soon. I don't see any reason to be in a hurry.

Originally posted by bkushin
...

My HD HBO feed displays full width, but a very "short" image - has around 4" bars on top & bottom. The network HD feeds (ABC, CBS, NBC) have around 4" bars on top, bottom & maybe 3" on the sides. Starz looks great - just thin bars on top & bottom. PBS HD is also great - small bars top & bottom - as are INHD1 & 2. Why is HBO & the network feeds so different? How can I get a consistent (& fuller/wider) image? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
...
Barry

All feeds arent the same... some networks upconvert everything while others are native in HD, and i believe this goes for shows on the channel too, some shows are upconverted copies and some are orginials... not sure completely but you can get a lot more info about that in the HD section on the forum!

bkushin:
Check on the User Menu to make sure you have selected TV Wide rather than PC wide. You have too much of the screen unused so I suspect that your set is on PC Wide.

Originally posted by bojangling
The black dots are only noticeable when you are a very close to the screen, i.e. less than a few feet. It almost looks like a gnat has landed on the screen, but when you try and wipe it off, you see its under the screen. The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.

bojangling:
I suspect that you are not seeing stuck pixels but dust somewhere in or around the light engine (stuck pixels are very clearly square while dust particles are irregular in shape). If it was a stuck pixel, you would be able to see it from farther away than "a few feet." The manufacturing process for DLP chips is not as iffy as LCDs, so you don't have the same quality control issues. Mirrors occasionally get stuck but not on the scale you are suggesting. Besides, Samsung has been very good about dealing with stuck pixels. However, the dust issue is up to the owner to deal with. I have not had a problem with dust so I cannot advise you but I suggest you search this forum for dust issues rather than bad pixels...

One alternative is to make sure that you don't watch the set from "a few feet" away... :D

Good luck.

Originally posted by bkushin
Anyway, the only issue is that how HD is displayed varies greatly between channels. I have Comcast - Motorola 6200 STB. Have it set for 720P, 16:9 & output through component (don't have a DVI cable yet - will try this soon). TV is set to "wide".

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.

Originally posted by bojangling
The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.
This is interesting. I thought Samsung had a zero-tolerance policy toward stuck mirrors on their previous DLPs. Has this changed with the HLP line of sets?

Edit: typo

Originally posted by htwaits

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.
* This is correct - I get no "Wide (PC)" option thru component...

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

* Actually, I figured it out - had the cable guy out & he noticed that the TV wasn't switching to Component2, which is where the STB was connected. It kept wanting to receive the signal through ANT1 instead. What fixed it was setting the Moto 6200 to 1080i output, NOT 720p as has been recommended here. Works great now - full screen on all HD channels!

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.

See my comments above & THANKS to all for the replies! Problem fixed for now...

Originally posted by bkushin
See my comments above & THANKS to all for the replies! Problem fixed for now...
I can't find you "fix" comments. Could you tell me which message you are referring too. I've got to know how the story ended. :D

I currently own a 1st generation HLM set. Can someone testify to any significant performance differences between the new models and the old one ?

Originally posted by htwaits
I can't find you "fix" comments. Could you tell me which message you are referring too. I've got to know how the story ended. :D

HT - here's my original post - my comments are after the *.
Bottom line is HD channels now look great! Full screen & excellent PQ - almost DVD quality. I was beginning to think that DVDs would be the only place I'd really be able to expeience a huge improvement with this set, but now that I've solved this problem, I'm extremely happy with it! Again, the fix was to set the Motorola 6200 STB to output 1080i, NOT 720p - not sure why, since 720p is the native resloution of the TV, but apparently the component inputs want to see 1080i. Maybe if/when I connect via DVI, 720p will work, but right now I'm thinking - if it ain't broke...

Anyway, thanks again for you input & for all the useful info you post here! Novices like me really appreciate your comments...

Barry

==============================================

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.
* This is correct - I get no "Wide (PC)" option thru component...

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

* Actually, I figured it out - had the cable guy out & he noticed that the TV wasn't switching to Component2, which is where the STB was connected. It kept wanting to receive the signal through ANT1 instead. What fixed it was setting the Moto 6200 to 1080i output, NOT 720p as has been recommended here. Works great now - full screen on all HD channels!

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.

Originally posted by bkushin
HT - here's my original post - my comments are after the *.

Thank for reposting. I missed your comments to my message because they were included with bold face in the quote you did. I didn't read it thinking it was just a copy of my message. :rolleyes: Sorry about that.

If you notice the context of a quoted message you will see a "B" in brackets followed by text then a "/B" in brackets. That's HTML for "start bold face" and "end bold face". You can interject your comments into someone else's message by using those two commands.

It sounds like you have a setup that is working now. I would still check with moto STB users to find out how to get the same results with 720p.

Enjoy.

I am wondering if anyone can confirm whether the samsung HLPs can work with dvi video cards in computers. I want to be able to play my pc games on my tv using a dvi connector and that will be a big reason whether I pick up the HLP or not.

I've had my new 50" HLP for about a week now and I have occasional lipsync problems. I haven't really had the time to experiment, but it's most noticeable on DVDs. I'm using a Samsung 831 player with a direct DVI connetion to my HLP. I've had th unit for about a week now and it might go back. This is a real bumer as the picture is stunning.

I just swapped an HLN for an HLP & I have a DCT6200. 720P works fine on SD & HD channels ....if...you use the DVI input/output.

However, in 720P it takes 2-3 seconds for the channels to change, and the screen blanks out inbetween. With the Moto6200 in 1080i mode, the channel changes are instantaneous. -- And 720P is supposed to be the Sammy's native mode, ain't it? Go figure!

UPDATE: Notwithstanding what I said above, I just switched the Moto back and forth between 1080i and 720p -- and -- NOW, but not before, the channels change instantly in both 1080 and 720.

(But I think the PQ of SD was better with the HLN!!! The PQ of the HLP on SD channels via component is poor-to-fair and only slightly better via DVI - the PQ looks pixelated and not as crisp as with the HLN -- this is progress??!!)

I am hoping to get an HLP set soon, but have one configuration question for one of you current owners who have been so kind as to answer questions here:

If I have a device hooked up to a component input (with its analog audio cables plugged in to the corresponding input jacks and delivering audio), will the audio channel for that input be passed through to the sound out jacks on the back of the tv when I select that component input to watch?

I ask this because the HLN series had the annoying 'feature' that the audio channels for the component signal were never passed through to the audio output jacks.

Thanks for any info!

Originally posted by CraigSharrow
I just swapped an HLN for an HLP & I have a DCT6200. 720P works fine on SD & HD channels ....if...you use the DVI input/output.

Thanks - I thought so. Haven't had a chance to go buy a DVI cable, so haven't tried it yet, but I suspected that component wants to see 1080i for some reason. I may try DVI, or not - it's working well now - not sure I want to mess with it. What advantage do you get with DVI? Better PQ? Again, everything's working well, so I'm reluctant to change it if the benefit is not substantial...

I noticed that a couple members posted issues with experiencing black-vertical lines. I too have had this happen a few times. Has anyone contacted Samsung regarding this? Should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Ben

Originally posted by litzdog911
Seems like this one might make more sense to allow mounting on top of the TV (btech-usa part BT14)....


I just received my BT14 stand in the mail today. Unfortunately, the stand-off posts included in the kit were too short. I'm going to make a trip to my local hardware store over the weekend and see if I can find some way to extend them, at which point, I think the stand will work just fine.

-- Dave

Dave,

Let me know if you figure out a way to make that BT14 work with the HLP. If I could somehow mount a center on top of an HLP, I would get one.

John

Posted this in another forum, but thought I'd put it here in the main strand:

I bought a hlp5063w 2 weeks ago and have seen the same effect that Gary describes:

[When my eye moves rapidly from one part of the screen to another, I often see a distinct "dither" pattern on various objects in the scene. The effect is that fairly solid colors, such as a blue sky, will appear to be made up of patterns of dark and light pixels -- rather than appearing to be a uniform color. The effect vanishes as soon as my eye stops moving.]

I hadn't really though about it being correlated with eye movement; I just knew that sometimes I noticed it and sometimes I didn't. On my set, it shows up particularly badly on a blue sky or uniformly colored painted wall, and I'm pretty sure it occurs when the camera pans as well, but I'll have to double check on that. I also notice it to be worse when viewing SDTV (if this makes any sense). I didn't notice it at the store, but while watching the TV from my couch for any length of time it drives me a little crazy and also makes me feel a tad queasy.

One other thing I've noticed is that sometimes facial features (particularly on close ups) have strange contrasting effects. The best way I can describe it is that sometimes people's cheeks or parts of their faces look too white and slightly dithered, like they're being viewed through fog. Since it only happens on parts of the face, it makes for a rather strange, surreal effect. It is particularly noticeable (and bothersome) on darker skin tones like african americans, and obviously most prominent on close ups.

A few questions for all:

1. Has anyone else experienced "queasiness" or headaches from the new HLPs? I'm the first person I've heard of, and I'm pretty confident it's not psychosomatic, but I hate the prospect of being the only guy on the planet with this problem.

2. Has anyone else noticed the "fog" problem?

3. If I can't get used to these problems, I've still got a couple of weeks to return the TV. Does anyone have an educated opinion on whether I should wait for HD2+ chip, or switch to LCD or CRT projection to eliminate the problem. I'd prefer DLP, but just can't watch it for too long without getting mildly "seasick" right now.

Originally posted by baylorgator
Posted this in another forum, but thought I'd put it here in the main strand:

I bought a hlp5063w 2 weeks ago and have seen the same effect that Gary describes:

[When my eye moves rapidly from one part of the screen to another, I often see a distinct "dither" pattern on various objects in the scene.

-Snip-

One other thing I've noticed is that sometimes facial features (particularly on close ups) have strange contrasting effects.

-Snip-

A few questions for all:

1. Has anyone else experienced "queasiness" or headaches from the new HLPs?
-Snip-


How far are you sitting from your set?
Have you had it calibrated?

I'm about 13 feet away and the set has not been calibrated. Calibration seems like a gamble; if it doesn't fix the problem and the set goes back to CC, I'm out $500 or whatever it costs.

Stopped by the local BEST BUY, this morning. They're on their way to being one of the smallest-market "customer centricity" stores in the flock -- so, a significant number of the crew actually knows something about what they sell.

In fact, one of my buds in the home theatre dept. already knew about the audio sync problems with some early production HLP's. They've already exchanged one. The customer didn't want home service from Samsung.

Originally posted by Mach430
I noticed that a couple members posted issues with experiencing black-vertical lines. I too have had this happen a few times. Has anyone contacted Samsung regarding this? Should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Ben

I reported my problem with vertical white stripes and other issues in a earlier post. I called Samsung late Sunday night. Wednesday after work Samsung had a repair person come by with a replacement engine - basically a mini projector - everything to generate & process the image. A few screws & a couple wires later it was replaced and the set is working fine. The whole process took less than 1/2 hour & it's a brand new TV.

The repair guy was very nice & helpful. He had recently been to HLP training and was surprised to see the HLP because he thought it wasn't out until July. He showed me his manual which had 4 typical problems and how to repair them. The vertical white stripes was #1, so obviously it's common enough to document.

As I said previously, buying over the internet caused alittle concern but Samsung & TVA's service appeased any worries. I'm a happy DLP owner.