Originally posted by jpaulr
Mit's MB-62X25 Stand Question.

Does anyone have the specs for the 62X25 stand? How tall is it? I'm trying to pull my speaker cables and I cannot find any dimensions anywhere to tell me how tall the stand is. If anyone has the stand, can you tell me the total height with the 62?

Thanks!

The matching stand fo the 52525 is 14" high.

Hope this helps...JL

That's great - I'll take it.

I can't believe there aren't any specs on the stand anywhere.

Paul

I found the specs on the stand somewhere and will post it when I find the scrap of paper. I do remember that the mitsu stand has only 16" depth on the shelves which means that most components will not fit in there, let alone a cable/sat box. I was thinking about getting a sanus stand that matches my component rack which has more depth in the shelves but is 20" high. I wonder if 6" higher will make a difference in viewing the tv. It may be a function of how far back the sofa is from the tv but b/c we'll be moving soon and will have a bigger living room then the one I had now, I want to get a stand that will work regardless.

btw, I placed an order for the 725 and have not yet received it so I'm trying to work out the stand issue before hand. Thanks.

Originally posted by SRFast
I called Mitsu parts today to order the trim kit for a WD-52525. I was told it was in stock and would cost $64.00. They took my credit card info and gave me a order confirmation #, but not a total price because they needed to determine the shipping charges. I got a call back and was told the Airborne shipping charge was $57.00 to NYC and that was the cheapest option! ...
Regards.....JL

JL,

I was just at the Tweeters in Holyoke, MA today and they carry the trim kit in the store for $50. If there is a Tweeters in your area you might want to check with them.

gt

Originally posted by gtunney
JL,

I was just at the Tweeters in Holyoke, MA today and they carry the trim kit in the store for $50. If there is a Tweeters in your area you might want to check with them.

gt

Thanks for the tip. I called the Tweeter store in Danbury, CT and special ordered it. It's going to cost approx. $60 and a 100 mile, round trip, but it's better than the $125 that Mits was going to charge me. It should be here in two weeks. BTW, he asked if I called earlier about the trim kit and I said "no." He said that it must be very popular because the store manager had the "Mits DLP Trim Kit" webpage on his PC.

Regards....JL

I stopped by Tweeter to pick up the replacement trim kit. Didn't go so well. The girl handed me a piece of paper with a phone number to the tweeter parts department. I was distracted by her chest, so I took the paper and stumbled back out the door.

Called the number.... waited on hold about 10 minutes, only to here it would be $136 +$10 for shipping. :mad: to top it off, the lady on the phone couldn't tell me exactly what it was, or where a picture can be found. She just kept calling it the "front grill assembly with sides and top". I hope this kit doesn't come with the front speaker grill also. That would be dumb of Mits'

If you have this part in your possession, even if it's installed, please take a picture and post it someone on this forum

This thread is about dead. So us lowely 525 owners have to bum off of the **725 thread. :rolleyes:

Yeah...Id like to see one too.

.......A lowly 62-525 owner as well......

Ah well.....

Means I just had more $$$ to throw at the HTPC :-)

I got an update on the trim kit. Best Buy is offering the trim kit for the 52" and 62" for free with a mail in rebate (you don't have to pay for it, just send in the form and they send it to you). This started 12/7 and runs until 2/15/05.

The kit should be on all 52525's for display in each and every Best Buy within the next month or so. It doesn't look amazing, but it's better than nothing.

Also a Mitsubishi rep stated that a XX327 DLP is in the works for 2005 sometime in Spring/Summer.

I'll try and take a picture and post it this weekend.

Here's the links...
52"
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12105&type=page&rebateid=54298&skuid=6731058

62"
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12105&type=page&rebateid=54298&skuid=6731129

Originally posted by jliehr
I got an update on the trim kit. Best Buy is offering the trim kit for the 52" and 62" for free with a mail in rebate (you don't have to pay for it, just send in the form and they send it to you). This started 12/7 and runs until 2/15/05.

The kit should be on all 52525's for display in each and every Best Buy within the next month or so. It doesn't look amazing, but it's better than nothing.

Also a Mitsubishi rep stated that a XX327 DLP is in the works for 2005 sometime in Spring/Summer.

I'll try and take a picture and post it this weekend.

Here's the links...
52"
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12105&type=page&rebateid=54298&skuid=6731058

62"
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12105&type=page&rebateid=54298&skuid=6731129

I am confused...

I looked at the best buy web site, and I can't find an entry for the kit. The form says that you have to send in the UPC code from the box, too. Is this the UPC code for the TV?? I don't have the packaging since Best Buy delivered the TV (and took the packaging away with them). I also bought my TV in August (and removed the screen within about a week because of the glare). Does this mean that I can't get the kit?

Can you buy the kit in the store, and get a rebate to make it free?

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Jeff

How did you hear about the Best Buy offer?

I did not get my set at BB, so I"m pretty much screwed on this offer. However, the $50 is much better than the $140 from Tweeter. Is there a Best Buy part number for this trim kit?

I guess you rebate seekers have to just mail in the receipt and wait. I'm guessing it will be a March before you get yours, but worse yet it will be January before I even see a picture of what one looks like! :(

It's not available from Best Buy, but rather comes from Mitsubishi themselves. The part # on the box was SF-52. If you already bought one the best bet is to call Mitsubishi and express your dismay at having to pay for the kit.

But as an FYI the kit is just cheap dull black plastic, the same look as what's there now. It just fills in the gap, it makes it look better, but it looks cheap IMO. I'll try and take a picture this week sometime so everyone can see.

Originally posted by jliehr
It's not available from Best Buy, but rather comes from Mitsubishi themselves. The part # on the box was SF-52. If you already bought one the best bet is to call Mitsubishi and express your dismay at having to pay for the kit.

But as an FYI the kit is just cheap dull black plastic, the same look as what's there now. It just fills in the gap, it makes it look better, but it looks cheap IMO. I'll try and take a picture this week sometime so everyone can see.

Does it replace the Mits logo that came off along with the protective screen?

It comes with the logo attached.

Hi,

I'm using Netcommand on my 62525 and like it very much. I have DTivo, a Samsung HDTV DTV reciever, Yamaha amp, Panasonic DVD and VCR hooked up and working fine, however I continue to use the TIVO remote to control TIVO and the Mits remote for basically everything else.

My only complaints on the Mits remote is that it isn't backlit and isn't intuitive for TIVO (plus I have too many devices).

I will also eventually add a HTPC....

So I know there already is a forum for remotes, but since I'm using Netcommand I'm looking for some more specific input from Mits owners.

Basically I think I would just need a universal remote, that is PVR & Mit's "friendly" with backlighting....

Anyone else run into this dilemna, if so how did you solve it?

Thanks,

Joe

Originally posted by jreising
Hi,

My only complaints on the Mits remote is that it isn't backlit and isn't intuitive for TIVO (plus I have too many devices).



Hi Joe,
Just one quick note...the Mits remote is somewhat backlit...you press the button on the right side of the remote to activate it. Hope that helps some....

-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Hi Joe,
Just one quick note...the Mits remote is somewhat backlit...you press the button on the right side of the remote to activate it. Hope that helps some....

-Randy

I am using my Mits remote to control the Tivo (series 2 standalone). The fast forward/rewind buttons are intuitive. I think I set it up as a vcr (other) if i remember right. I assigned the "Device menu" button to be the Tivo button, the "cancel/sub" button is the Live TV button, the guide button is the tivo guide button, and the mits "Info" button is the "display" button on the Tivo. It works reasonably well, but I wish i had the Clear button, and the skip ahead button.

And yes there is a backlight button on the right edge of the remote.

I like the Net Command setup with my SA8000-HD DVR box. There are 3 special buttons "A,B,C" from the SA remote that are very crucial to DVR playback and file keeping. The "A" and "B" buttons where all I realy needed to have. So I learned those in as numberpads "1" and "2". which means I can not directly access any channel with a 1 or two in the number. No real biggy, I just get close and then scroll up to it.

I also did some tricky stuff with my DVD learning to setup some shortcut menus. A novice person could still do simpel stuff with the remote, but only I know the important things.

I have not learned in ANY of the power on/off features for net command, but I have them setup for the Remote's "slider" universal option.

I only wish the universal remote had more buttons usage when in "AVR" mode. Seems like there are only 3 or 4 features. So my receiver's remote stays closeby.

Sorry for the typo's. I hate having to type black text on this grey background. Who's the PhP nut that picked this setup as the default?!

Originally posted by BB_Mike


Sorry for the typo's. I hate having to type black text on this grey background. Who's the PhP nut that picked this setup as the default?!



That would probably be you :D . I haven't any complaint abt black against light grey, what color(s) do you suggest? Yellow over purple could be arresting!:( . MY typo's are mine:D I'm an admitted piss-poor typist, and use spellcheck almost religiously. Seriously :D , what setup would you like?

I know, I take a lot of the blame for my bad typing. It's just that on the few other forums post on, the "your reply" text box has a white background. So I have no problem going back over the reply. Contrast is our friend. It's like putting grey text on white background. It isn't rocket science. ;)

I'll make it my New Year's resolution to type slower and more accurate... promise. :D

I just got done setting up NetCommand on my TV w DirecTivo...

I built Tivo as a DBS since the DBS device has pretty much every button available for use on the remote. I used std key mappings with the following items that are a bit quirky.

Device Menu=List (a left arrow from there will take you to Tivo central)
QV=Replay
Cancel=Skip to end/30 sec skip ahead (I haven't found a need for 'exit')
I don't do thumbs up or thumbs down... I have the suggestions turned off

All,

I have researched both instore and on this forum and am leaning towards purchasing a 62" Mits DLP (725 series). But unfortunatley my townhome wont be built uintil August next year. I was wondering are there going to be any new (possibly 60") 1080P MITS sets coming out?

Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by tarigaad

I was wondering are there going to be any new (possibly 60") 1080P MITS sets coming out?


Good question. I'm, wondering as well when Mits will come out with a 1080p DLP set. I can't decide if I should go for the current Mits DLP, wait for the Samsung 1080p DLP's, or just wait longer. I'm definitely waiting to at least the end of CES. Can't decide. Wan't a DLP/big screen (badly)! Thanks.

I have a SA8000HD DVR and a DVi-HDMI cable.

I've connected the DVI ouput of the DVR to my Mitsu 52525HDMI. My question to you is how do I get select the HDMI input on my TV?!? The manual says to select Monolink, but there isn't one listed in the NetCommand setup.

I've reset the TV to facotory settings and still get nothing.


Thanks.

If I am not mistaken the correct designation for the device is MONLINK in the device listing that comes up on your screen.

I have that DVR/tuner too, from my cable company. As of right now, the DVI output is not enabled (at least around here). I don't know if the problem is with my cable company (Comcast) or with SA (firmware update?). If you get it to work, please post back here or PM me. I have the 62525. And yes, MONLINK is the HDMI input (although I've never seen it work on my TV, LOL).

If you do get it to work, I'd like to know if you see any improvement vs. component, as the discussion has been that the HDMI input goes back to analog (noted on this thread and this one -> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=460330 .

Originally posted by ruckus87
The manual says to select Monolink, but there isn't one listed in the NetCommand setup.


You have to enable the Monolink device. Bring up the "TV Menu" and select "Net Command". Then choose "Review". This will bring up a menu allows you to enable/dissable whichever input-macro you want on your pop up list.

Also, my SA8000-HD box does not have the DVI port enabled, so you may be going down a dead end street. Call your local provider. I think some people in Texas and maybe Chicago area have the DVI.

Has anyone seen their $300 rebate yet? I'm at the 6 week mark on the 6-8 week window stated on the form and have not seen the rebate yet. I figured there were probably some that were past the 8 week mark now.

Thanks.

I just took delivery of my mitsu 52825 and Denon 3910 dvd player. I can not get the Mits to pick up signal from the hdmi link. I believe I have the player set up correctly and I am selecting Monlink from the devices menu on the television. Any thoughts about this problem? Anyone else have a denon 3910 that is also using the hdmi output? Suggestions much appreciated.

Originally posted by BigTenBob
I just took delivery of my mitsu 52825 and Denon 3910 dvd player. I can not get the Mits to pick up signal from the hdmi link. I believe I have the player set up correctly and I am selecting Monlink from the devices menu on the television. Any thoughts about this problem? Anyone else have a denon 3910 that is also using the hdmi output? Suggestions much appreciated.

I have the same problem with my 62825 when using a denon 2910 and a pioneer 59avi. See my post in the mits bright spot issue forum post #274(tried to put a link in message but error said I was spamming...give me a break).
I have a service tech call scheduled for this friday.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467700&perpage=20&pagenumber=14

I hook up my Comcast DVR through the HMDI port and there is a problem with the HMDI port on the 62725 making a good connection. I believe others have had this same problem. If I insert the connector with a good amount of force and wiggle it around a bit, the picture will appear.

Wiggling it around does not sound very appealing.

The only experience that I can offer related to the use of a DVI/HDMI adapter. The Mits did not like it. It liked a cable with DVI on one end and HDMI on the other much better. Once I used the cable with connectors as opposed to using a DVI cable with an adapter I had a good connection. The other thing I did that the Mits did not like is using an HDMI adapter at the HDMI end. I guess I would have been better off using a DVI/HDMI adapter and then an HDMI/HDMI cable instead of using a DVI cable with a DVI/HDMI adapter. But, I have quite a few DVI cables and did not have any HDMI cables. That said I still like using the connectorized cable better than using the adapter.

I do wish that you got a better feel from the HDMI connection. It feels like a poorly implemented USB connection for example. I would prefer a nice firm feel and a little resistance from the connector on the TV end. Instead it sort of slides in with little if any resistance and you get the feeling that it would fall out very easily. Frankly I would have preferred DVI/DVI as I just do not like the HDMI connector and have no use for it besides.

I am looking at replacing my DVD player shortly. Anyone try out the new HDMI upconverting players and are they worth it with this set, given the D->A conversion? Should I just stick with a good old progressive scan player?

chaos.... Is it a tech from the av store....or are you working with Denon or Mitsubishi? Please post your results after that visit. Hdmi was definitely a selling point for both products. I am interested to hear what they tell you about this.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket


Overall I agree with your observations- there is a bit of Red Push and the Green is slightly behind it. People tent to look "rosy" faced. The Tint setting seems to fix that.

I tried that but the greens in "We Were Soldiers" were off the charts.

I just got a 52725 two weeks ago and I thought I'd pass along my initial impressions and my settings to this point.

Picture quality:
I'm coming from a Toshiba 42" CRT RP.
+DirecTV SD picture quality is good once I adjusted the settings (see below)
+DVD's are much better than SD DirecTV (something I never noticed on my Toshiba)
+HD is excellent
+Good brightness and viewing angle that makes the TV more usable in my room than the Toshiba (although it was good for a CRT RP)
-I bought the Mits because it has the best blacks of any micro-display TV I'd found. The blacks are still not as good as my CRT RP.
-The Stretch and Strech Plus modes are not as good as the non-linear strech mode was on my Toshiba... too much of a fish-eye lense feel to it.
-I have a slight bright spot that will show up in a totally black cut scene... I don't see it while watching a show.
-The fans are louder than I expected, they don't bother me at all but I have a carpeted room... if I had hard floors I think it would bug me.

Features:
+Netcommand is working great. Besides having the recorder control everything on one remote, having the ability to scedule a recording thru the TV that will turn on my DVD recorder, select the recording device (direcTV or the OTA HD tuner) and start and stop a recording for me is really nice. I wish it had S-video output for recording though.
+The OTA Tuner is working well, pulls in stations a bit better than my old DTC100 did
-The channel memory stuff is messed up a bit. When I do a channel search it memorizes channels and says it adds channels but they don't show up in the channel list afterwards
-Sub-channels are added sporadically after the initial search and they are being added with the original frequencies instead of their mapped channel numbers.

Settings:
1. I had a green tint to everything. Turning off Auto-color got rid of that... I didn't touch perfect color settings, I just turned off auto mode.
2. I turned the Sharpness down to 15. Got rid of a lot of edge artifacts and cleaned up my SD picture quite a bit.
3. From the factory Contrast was set to 60 or so and brightness was set to 31. I set contrast to 45 and brightness to 35. This seemed to give me a bit more detail especially on SD content.
4. I'm still playing around with the color temp... from the factory it was set to High. I'm using Medium or Low depending on the input. My Toshiba had an orange-tint to everything so I these settings are closer to what I'm used to with that TV.

Despite a few quirks (that I hope will be cleaned up with firmware updates) I love the TV.

One other note... I tried using a Harmony remote with netcommand and I couldn't get it to work. Bummer, as I love the size and feel of the Harmony remote.

Originally posted by Grond
I tried that but the greens in "We Were Soldiers" were off the charts. Do you have the "auto" color mode enabled? That mode will really overemphasize greens.

Originally posted by BigAl
... I tried using a Harmony remote with netcommand and I couldn't get it to work. Bummer, as I love the size and feel of the Harmony remote. Which Harmony are you using? I can see how the two would conflict with each other... Are you using the Mits IR transmitters? The Harmony wants to control individual components - where the NC wants to do the same.

Originally posted by BigTenBob
chaos.... Is it a tech from the av store....or are you working with Denon or Mitsubishi? Please post your results after that visit. Hdmi was definitely a selling point for both products. I am interested to hear what they tell you about this.

Authorized service center tech recomended by store. I'll let you know.

Originally posted by BigAl
One other note... I tried using a Harmony remote with netcommand and I couldn't get it to work. Bummer, as I love the size and feel of the Harmony remote.

What feature wasn't working? I just got a Harmony 680 last week, and I have set a custom button for the Mits "device menu" and have set the "record", "play" and "pause" buttons on the Harmony to correspond to the same on the Mits remote. Haven't been able to test NetCommand recording, though, as it doesn't work even using the Mits remote. Still awaiting a service call on this issue.

Originally posted by jliehr
It's not available from Best Buy, but rather comes from Mitsubishi themselves. The part # on the box was SF-52. If you already bought one the best bet is to call Mitsubishi and express your dismay at having to pay for the kit.

But as an FYI the kit is just cheap dull black plastic, the same look as what's there now. It just fills in the gap, it makes it look better, but it looks cheap IMO. I'll try and take a picture this week sometime so everyone can see.

Jliehr,

Did you ever get a chance to take a picture of this kit installed on your TV? And did you get it for free from Mits? Or did you get it from the Best Buy rebate offer, or did you just have to buy it?

I am wondering if I took the time to call Mits, would they provide then free of charge if I complained about the unfinished look loudly enough.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Jliehr,

Did you ever get a chance to take a picture of this kit installed on your TV? And did you get it for free from Mits? Or did you get it from the Best Buy rebate offer, or did you just have to buy it?

I am wondering if I took the time to call Mits, would they provide then free of charge if I complained about the unfinished look loudly enough.

Thanks,
Jeff

Here is a picture of it installed. Just picked mine up today, ordered back 12/3, and it arrived at Tweeter 12/20. I called them to find out it was in. :(

How do you get that rebate?

Originally posted by chaos400ra3
Authorized service center tech recomended by store. I'll let you know.

Well, the tech was here and he said he will request a new Digital chassis replacement to resolve the HDMI issue. He said mits does not want the tech to try to repair...just replace the whole thing.

I also brought up the bright spot and he will request a new light engine on a seperate repair request.

He said he would do nothing with the cable card problem.

If mits denies the light eng. replacement I'll return this set for a 3rd or just go with a different brand.

I have a Harmony 688... netcommand mode from the mits remote (device code 935) still acts like the standard mits remote commands (device 000). I used the pre-learned commands that harmony had in their database and I then tried learning from my Mits remote. In both instances the TV gave me the message to set the remote to netcommand mode.

I haven't tried using the 'raw' learning mode. That'll be my next step... the IR analysis that harmony does may be cleaning up the IR signal and reverting it back to non-netcommand mode.

Happy New Year.

I've encountered an annoying problem over the past month and would like to know if anyone else is experiencing it. When I press the Mits 52525 remote's power button, the power light will come on, but the set does not power up - No fan, image or audio. The only way to get the set to power up normally is to disconnect the Mits power cord and let it reset. The set will operate normally for a week and then it happens again. Anyone else? I am using the current .03 firmware. Anyone else?

Regards.....JL

Originally posted by Daranman
Here is a picture of it installed. Just picked mine up today, ordered back 12/3, and it arrived at Tweeter 12/20. I called them to find out it was in. :(

How do you get that rebate?

Thanks for the picture...

Just one question, though...

Does the kit install as one big open rectangular piece, or is it 4 separate pieces (top, bottom, and 2 sides)? And what did Tweeter charge you for it?

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Thanks for the picture...

Just one question, though...

Does the kit install as one big open rectangular piece, or is it 4 separate pieces (top, bottom, and 2 sides)? And what did Tweeter charge you for it?

Thanks,
Jeff

It is one big open rectangular piece, comes in a box that size, good for storing your removed screen. BTW, I initially installed it wrong; you have to bend the sides outward to get the bottom and the top into their channels. The sides then snapped in nicely.

They charged me $50 plus tax, so it came out to be $53 and change.

Also, I checked with MDEA about the rebate. The only ones getting it are those that buy the TV and frame from Best Buy.

"Well, the tech was here and he said he will request a new Digital chassis replacement to resolve the HDMI issue. He said mits does not want the tech to try to repair...just replace the whole thing.

I also brought up the bright spot and he will request a new light engine on a seperate repair request.

He said he would do nothing with the cable card problem.

If mits denies the light eng. replacement I'll return this set for a 3rd or just go with a different brand."

I have had my 52825 for one week. I will be setting up a service call for the non functional hdmi port. Other than that, the set is great. I do notice a small, football size bright spot (more like a faint haze), but it is so faint as to only be noticable when the set is powered off and the display is blank (but prior to actually shutting off). I am normally pretty picky, but my spot is so insignificant that I do not want to risk swapping it out. I ordered digital video essentials and will receive it this week. I will than tweak the set completely. If the hdmi issue gets resolved, I think it is a keeper. I have no smudges and no tilt that I can see under normal conditions. I will post my findings after I calibrate the set. Gotta love the picture, for sure.

]"Well, the tech was here and he said he will request a new Digital chassis replacement to resolve the HDMI issue. He said mits does not want the tech to try to repair...just replace the whole thing.

I also brought up the bright spot and he will request a new light engine on a seperate repair request.

He said he would do nothing with the cable card problem.

If mits denies the light eng. replacement I'll return this set for a 3rd or just go with a different brand."

********
problems with the quote function..... sorry.... above originally posted by chaos..

have had my 52825 for one week. I will be setting up a service call for the non functional hdmi port. Other than that, the set is great. I do notice a small, football size bright spot (more like a faint haze), but it is so faint as to only be noticable when the set is powered off and the display is blank (but prior to actually shutting off). I am normally pretty picky, but my spot is so insignificant that I do not want to risk swapping it out. I ordered digital video essentials and will receive it this week. I will than tweak the set completely. If the hdmi issue gets resolved, I think it is a keeper. I have no smudges and no tilt that I can see under normal conditions. I will post my findings after I calibrate the set. Gotta love the picture, for sure.

BigTenBob,

My bright spot is sometimes unacceptable(watched a fireworks show on INHD(dark)....was always there) and sometimes not an issue(watched any high def football game(bright)...not there). I have a feeling Mits will deny the light eng. replacement. I'm also worried if the light engine gets replaced I might have a brighter spot. I will see. I should not have all these worries for a 5 grand purchase.
.

Since this thread is already going, I felt it would be better to post in here rather than start a new thread. Anyway...

I have a 62825 and a modded xbox running XBMC (does upscaling to 480P, 720P and 1080i). Should I let the 825 do the upscaling to 720P or should I do the upscaling with the xbox? Basically, does anyone know what the better scaler is?

Thanks.

The screen kit I ordered in early Dec. 2004 finally arrived. I am planning to pick it up on 01/14. I have few questions regarding the factory screen:

1. Does it take two (2) people to remove it?
2. Does it "enhance" the PQ - will my video settings need to be changed?

Any tips would be appreciated.

TIA....JL

It's a long while since I've here... is Mits coming out with a new set for 05 with 1080p capability? I know Sammy will be releasing their new series by spring or summer.

Originally posted by SRFast
The screen kit I ordered in early Dec. 2004 finally arrived. I am planning to pick it up on 01/14. I have few questions regarding the factory screen:

1. Does it take two (2) people to remove it?
2. Does it "enhance" the PQ - will my video settings need to be changed?

Any tips would be appreciated.

TIA....JL

Factory screen comes off easily - one person can do it (I did mine - a 62"). I used some credit cards to disengage the clips that hold it on. The manual explains it well. Just note that there are discrete locations where you need to disengage it. I think you can see them if you look closely with a flashlight, or you will feel them with a credit card.

spiff72:
Thanks for the advice. Do you see any difference in PQ with the screen protector off? It has been said the protector enhances the PQ, but I would like your personal take on this.

TIA...JL

Originally posted by SRFast
spiff72:
Thanks for the advice. Do you see any difference in PQ with the screen protector off? It has been said the protector enhances the PQ, but I would like your personal take on this.

TIA...JL

I honestly didn't notice any difference. I didn't pay that much attention though, I just had to get rid of the image of myself sitting on the couch (as I saw reflected in the shield on it).

Originally posted by spiff72
I honestly didn't notice any difference. I didn't pay that much attention though, I just had to get rid of the image of myself sitting on the couch (as I saw reflected in the shield on it).

I picked up the trim kit today. It was a 135 mile round trip, but worth it because I got what I wanted and it only cost me $53.00 including CT tax. Besides, I like driving even if rained/snowed the entire trip. I took my time removing the screen protector because I didn't want to damage it and installed the trim kit. I think it looks pretty good and I like the matte appearance of the screen. I've been livng with reflections since July 2004 and now they don't exist. Well worth the time and effort.

Regards....JL

Looking at buying Mits wd52525 at Best Buy $2699.00 (great special and
discounts) Any thought on if I should pay the extra for wd52825 at
Tweeter for $3899.00.
Mits has told me I can purchase the Diamond screen from the 825 for
$320.00 which would make the 525 cost around $3000.00. I do not feel
that the extra $800.00 or so is worth it for the PVR and gloss front
after buying a Diamond shield.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom

Originally posted by tevans
Looking at buying Mits wd52525 at Best Buy $2699.00 (great special and
discounts) Any thought on if I should pay the extra for wd52825 at
Tweeter for $3899.00.
Mits has told me I can purchase the Diamond screen from the 825 for
$320.00 which would make the 525 cost around $3000.00. I do not feel
that the extra $800.00 or so is worth it for the PVR and gloss front
after buying a Diamond shield.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom

If you can live without the protective screen (no young kids/ destructive pets) you can just remove it from the 52525 and save yourself $320.

My mits is working great, but last night I noticed the screen was tilted a little up on the right side. Banner bars and the TV's menu bars show this the best. I have had it for only 2 weeks, but this is the first I noticed it. The only thing I did different last night was temporarily unplug it for a few minutes (it had not been on previouslly all day so it couldn't have been hot).

Does anyone know how to adjust the horiztontal and vertical bars? I can't find it in the manual anywhere. Do I have to call a service guy?

Thanks,

I haven't seen anything on the 2005 models from the CES. Have I missed something or is Sammy the only major DLP player this year?

Havent heard anyone comment on the PVR features of the 825 - does it work well; any problems, etc...??

Also, is there a way to tell when the set was manufactured? I want to make sure that the set hasnt been sitting in a warehouse for a couple of months without the latest firmware.

Thanks in advance...

I've got a Mits DLP question, but first I'd like to make the comment that I followed forums about and looked at Samsung DLPs for more than a year. I also met with Steve Panosian from Samsung several times (CES and San Francisco). When it came time to buy, I saw a WD62525 next to a captain Kirk. Up 'til then, I thought the Sammy was the best picture for the money. But in comparison I thought the Mits had a slightly better overall picture, better connections, built tuners and the best form factor over 60". Plus, I got a helluva price at BB.

Now I'm in kind of a hurry to get this thing tweaked before our SB party. My question is, where's the definitive place for info on setup (thread, page, poster, etc). Some of these huge threads are daunting. I can see some of these numbers are early attempts. Has everyone settled in on one set of numbers for the best out of store picture?

Also I've got an Outlaw 950 processor. Has anyone got the audio OSD to show on the Mits from the 950?

TIA

More about setup, are there any hidden menus that have been found for tweaking?

Biggest thing is to change the oem video setup. Very heavily biased towards green.
These settings were posted earlier
Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

Sorry if this seems really stupid. Newbie HDTV guy here, that just got a 52525 over the weekend. I would like to hook my laptop up to the TV through the PC port. What type of cable would I need to do that?

Thanks, and sorry if this was a stupid question.

Originally posted by dwarren2
Biggest thing is to change the oem video setup. Very heavily biased towards green.
These settings were posted earlier
Try the following perfect color settings:
Magenta 53
Red 43
Yellow 43
Green 35
Cayan 31
Blue 44

those settings in combination with these video settings worked really well for me. maybe you have your color temp set to high?

Sharpness - 0
Color - 31
Tint - 31
Brightness - 45
Contrast - 41
DefinEdge Off
Video Noise - Reduction
Color Temperature - Low

Just for giggles I tried out your settings and they produced a horrid picture on my 52725. In particular, the perfect color settings, setting sharpness to "0", and the excessive brightness setting of 45. Either one of us is blind, or there are huge set-to-set calibration variances with this model. LOL

Originally posted by hfthomp
Sorry if this seems really stupid. Newbie HDTV guy here, that just got a 52525 over the weekend. I would like to hook my laptop up to the TV through the PC port. What type of cable would I need to do that?

Thanks, and sorry if this was a stupid question.

Depending on what kind of outputs you have on your laptop you could just use a standard monitor cable. If you have a DVI output on your laptop you could connect it (with an adpter, I believe) to the HDMI.

Originally posted by Eyespy
Just for giggles I tried out your settings and they produced a horrid picture on my 52725. In particular, the perfect color settings, setting sharpness to "0", and the excessive brightness setting of 45. Either one of us is blind, or there are huge set-to-set calibration variances with this model. LOL

Same for me. The sharpness at "0" not only gave me a terrible picture, it made my Dish menu almost unreadable.

Me too with VOOM, Denon 2910 and HD DirectTV/TiVo and calibrated

Originally posted by SRFast
I picked up the trim kit today. It was a 135 mile round trip, but worth it because I got what I wanted and it only cost me $53.00 including CT tax. Besides, I like driving even if rained/snowed the entire trip. I took my time removing the screen protector because I didn't want to damage it and installed the trim kit. I think it looks pretty good and I like the matte appearance of the screen. I've been livng with reflections since July 2004 and now they don't exist. Well worth the time and effort.


SRFast,

Can you post a pic or two? I'd love to see what the trim kit looks like and if it is worth it. Where did you purchase? It sounds like you got a pretty good deal. I live in Houston, so I'd probably need to source it locally.

Originally posted by rtmoore4
SRFast,

Can you post a pic or two? I'd love to see what the trim kit looks like and if it is worth it. Where did you purchase? It sounds like you got a pretty good deal. I live in Houston, so I'd probably need to source it locally.

I will post the picture(s) when I can. The trim kit is nothing more than a snap on "picture frame" covering the exposed metal usually hidden by the shield. I purchased it at Tweeter and they charged $50+tax. I would check with the store where you purchased your set. If they are an authorized Mits dealer, they should be able to order it for you.

Regards....JL

Originally posted by rtmoore4
SRFast,

Can you post a pic or two? I'd love to see what the trim kit looks like and if it is worth it. Where did you purchase? It sounds like you got a pretty good deal. I live in Houston, so I'd probably need to source it locally.

I believe there's a pic of it up in the 525 or 725 owner's thread.

Originally posted by TFrederick
Has anyone seen their $300 rebate yet? I'm at the 6 week mark on the 6-8 week window stated on the form and have not seen the rebate yet. I figured there were probably some that were past the 8 week mark now.

Thanks.

Bought my WD-62825 on 11/8/04 or 12 weeks ago and have not seen any rebates either.

Has anyone received this Rebate ?

Yoost

Yoost
I spoke with a Mits rep today. She said I should receive my check in about 2 weeks. I mailed it in 11 November. She apologized for the delay but gave no reason for it.

after leaving a request on the Mits FW Upgrade voice mail? I am trying to get the latest FW and though I've left a message, I don't have a high level of confidence that I will get it. Personally, asking the customer who has spent thousands of $$'s on a TV to leave a voice mail request is not very customer service oriented. How do I ever know they received my request?

BTW, how do I reach a live Mits CS rep if I want to report a problem?

TIA...JL

I have the .04 FW. Got it three or four weeks ago after calling Mitsubishi. I told them I was still having issues with the TV freezing when accessing digital cablecard channels. I don't think the FW fixed that though as I still get an occasional lockup for a minute or two when surfing digital channels (never happens on HD though). I'd call 949-830-8364 and request the new FW... call around 7 AM PST to get through fast...

Finally got the 4.04 FW and though it has not corrected all the CC issues, it is an improvement. I attribute the remaining CC issues with TWC.

I am ready to connect a HDMI supported HD DVR STB to the 52525. I've looked in the owner's manual and there isn't any specific Mits set up instructions for HDMI devices. How do I proceed? Any advise is appreciated.

TIA...JL

Add the device in netcommand as being hooked up to the MONLINK input... that is the HDMI port.

Originally posted by woodyww
Yoost
I spoke with a Mits rep today. She said I should receive my check in about 2 weeks. I mailed it in 11 November. She apologized for the delay but gave no reason for it. Hooray, got my $300 Mitsu rebate today-filed in November! Thanks to all members who posted references and/or copies of the form-especially since Mitsu pulled the rebate form from their website days after posting.

Glenns1939,

Congratulations with receiving your rebate.

Please provide me with the Mitsu phone number you used to follow up.

Many thanks.
Yoost

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
Add the device in netcommand as being hooked up to the MONLINK input... that is the HDMI port.

Thanks. Everything is working fine. I now have CC and a SA 8300HD DVR connected via an HDMI cable. PQ of both sources are pretty awesome.

Regards...JL

Originally posted by yoost
Glenns1939,

Congratulations with receiving your rebate.

Please provide me with the Mitsu phone number you used to follow up.

Many thanks.
Yoost The fulfillment number is 949-224-5600 and ask for Jody, or the Mitsu # is 888-58MITSU. Good luck!

Originally posted by glenns1939
The fulfillment number is 949-224-5600 and ask for Jody, or the Mitsu # is 888-58MITSU. Good luck!

I got mine today too. I didn't submit mine until Jan (but still before the stated deadline). I didn't call anyone about it. I just waited. It's here and I'm a very happy HDTV addict.

Originally posted by glenns1939
Hooray, got my $300 Mitsu rebate today-filed in November! Thanks to all members who posted references and/or copies of the form-especially since Mitsu pulled the rebate form from their website days after posting.

YES!!! Got my rebate check today as well. I honestly didn't expect that I would receive it, so what a nice surprise. Thanks to the members who brought this to our attention and posted the form. I owe you one!

anyone else had observations on the mitsu in terms of lag with gaming and/or hooking up an external receiver/speakers? i've heard of issues on the sammy DLPs, especially the older models, but i've only seen one or two comments on it in this thread (based on just a quick search).

Originally posted by mikea28
anyone else had observations on the mitsu in terms of lag with gaming and/or hooking up an external receiver/speakers? i've heard of issues on the sammy DLPs, especially the older models, but i've only seen one or two comments on it in this thread (based on just a quick search).

No lag on games (PS2 via componenta) or other a/v hooked up to the set for me!

Originally posted by DCinDC
No lag on games (PS2 via componenta) or other a/v hooked up to the set for me!

Lag is usually due to video processing delay- certain digital line doublers, etc...

Some older Sammys had this issue.

That said, I have an XBox via component on the 52725. I even brought an Xbox to the store to try it on their 52525 (the 725s were not out yet). No delay- I just stink at games. ;-)

Please submit your vote here if you are a Mits DLP owner: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=513927

*** MITS 725 room lighting question
Hi,

I want to buy the 62" 725 but am concerned about the lighting in my room.

1) Daytime
Behind the MITS would be about 15 feet of west facing floor to ceiling windows. It never gets direct sunlight into the room as there is a covered deck outside the windows but would be a very bright background. As we do watch TV during the day I am concerned whether we will have a good picture from 10'

2) Nighttime
12' in front of the MITS would be a single 100watt conventional table lamp on a table next to the couch. This is usually on. I am concerned that this will be prominent in the glare shield (which I would prefer to leave on).

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jack

Originally posted by jbader
*** MITS 725 room lighting question
Hi,

I want to buy the 62" 725 but am concerned about the lighting in my room.

1) Daytime
Behind the MITS would be about 15 feet of west facing floor to ceiling windows. It never gets direct sunlight into the room as there is a covered deck outside the windows but would be a very bright background. As we do watch TV during the day I am concerned whether we will have a good picture from 10'

2) Nighttime
12' in front of the MITS would be a single 100watt conventional table lamp on a table next to the couch. This is usually on. I am concerned that this will be prominent in the glare shield (which I would prefer to leave on).

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jack

I can't really respond to the wall of windows behind the Mits, but I have one north-facing window that doesn't cause me any problems.

For the lamp in front of the TV, I think it is safe to say that you will definitely be affected by that one. I had a floor-standing lamp (with a flourescent bulb) behind the sectional that I normally sit on. I had to move the lamp off to the side of the room, and I still ended up removing the protective shield. That screen can act like a mirror when there is a light source in front of the TV (I could actually see my reflection in dark scenes).

Moving the lamp and removing the screen helped significantly.

Hope this helps.

I currently have the Mits. 62825. I have three questions.

1.) What is the latest firmware?

2.) Will TV GUIDE Plus (Gemstar) be offered?

3.) I have read most of this thread. I would like to know what the optimum settings are? Has anyone every done an ISF calibration, if so what are the settings?

I currently have the Mits. 62825. I have three questions.

1.) What is the latest firmware?

2.) Will TV GUIDE Plus (Gemstar) be offered?

3.) I have read most of this thread. I would like to know what the optimum settings are? Has anyone every done an ISF calibration, if so what are the settings?

How can you tell how many viewing hours you have on the Mits set?

Thanks

Hit the TV Menu button, then punch 2-4-7-0 on the remote. A new screen will come up and at the bottom left will be the number of hours on the bulb/tv.

Update on my dusty spots problem:

I removed the screen (whole front of TV) with the help of a tech. We cleaned the reflective mirror closest to the front of screen (VERY DUSTY) the spots went away but after 5 minutes the dust began to resettle and 3 days later spots began appearing again. The process took about 30 minutes. I am not happy about this issue. Fixable, but a pain in the ass.

Chas.

I've yet to remove the front screen... for that all you have to do is remove the screws around the outside edge in the back and then the screws under the speaker grill, right? Also, there is a connector that needs to be unplugged before removing the screen. Am I missing anything else?

'Been reading for a while, thanks for all the good information.
Waiting on delivery of my 62725 this weekend.

I'm looking for some clarification regarding the replacement frame kit.

1) Is this kit available for the 62 in or only 52 ?
2) If so, does anyone have an order number from BB ? I went there to inquire but, of course, they claim they never heard of this kit for either size.
Thanks

It is available for both sizes and range from 49-54 bucks.

Terp.

Yes, you have to remove all the screws around the back of the TV trim.
ALSO, you must remove the front grill and remove the center panel (simple philips screws too) . Behind the center pannel you have to disconnect the wires that connect the tv screen buttons (Power, Device, Menu, volume etc) to the set itself (very easy) . THEN you can remove the screen. Dont try it yourself because its slightly difficult to line up the screen when you put it back on.

Regarding the trim kit for the 62". Where do I get it? I have been fiending for one!

Chas.

I just made the switch from a Samsung HLP6163W to a Mits WD-62725. The Mits will be delivered this weekend. The reason I made the switch was for the improved contrast (1500:1 vs 2500:1) and the HD2+ chip in the Mits. I have a Samsung HLN501W in my wife's and my bedroom and love it. However I could not get used to the soft picture of the HD3 chip in the 61 inch which was in our family room. I am excited to see how the Mits does. I already bought the screen trim for the set (part #SF-62). Note there are two different screen trim part numbers SF-52 for the 52 inch TV and SF-62 for the 62 inch TV.

Now a few questions:

For those who have removed the screen from their Mits DLP, does the screen compare to the Samsung DLP screens?
(The one thing I love about the Sammys is that screen is not reflective)

I have also heard people state that the Mits is dim compared to other DLP sets, is this true? Is is hard to watch the TV during the bright times of the day?

Have people with Mits set concluded that the HDMI up converting DVD players are not working and component produces a better picture?
(I have a Panasonic S97S with HDMI)

Overall are you happy with the Mits DLP set?

Thanks,

Jeff

Yes I am very happy with my 62" set, although the dust issue is a bit of a pain. (see above post).

I have my brigtness almost maxed out and it works and looks fine. I also removed the reflective screen. The picture on "Lost" and other good HD signal shows is as close to perfect that I have ever seen. However the SD signal is pretty poor for non-digital-feed channels (COMCAST). Comedy Central is probably the worst picture of all the channels I watch regularly. It is my opinion that it is not so much the TV at fault but the crappy signal being stretched (see diesel fuel in Ferarri analogy). Overall, I think you will be pleased, anyways in about a year and a half all channels will be broadcasting in HD so I can wait.... although I'm biting my nails in anticipation for Daily Show in HD. I would look through this thread to calibrate your TV before making any judgements: Sharpness down, brightness up, etc...

I also own a 3-4 year old non-progressive scan Sony DVD player and the TV works wonders with that signal. So much so that I will probably wait untill blu-ray catches on to get my next player.

Also, if you happen to own a digital camera then you can preform slide shows for friends/family just by inserting your memory card. Good stuff.

Have a good one everybody.

Jefftaz,

Where did you buy the SF-62 trim kit ?
-- Still can't get anywhere with BB.
Thanks.

I got my trim kit free with my 52525 at Ulimate electronics. When I bought the tv, the sales guy just ordered me one. You may be able to buy them there too...not sure.

Originally posted by marino1313
Jefftaz,

Where did you buy the SF-62 trim kit ?
-- Still can't get anywhere with BB.
Thanks.

I got my 52" trim kit from Tweeter. I ordered it over the phone and picked it up when it arrived. Do a store search on their website (www.tweeter.com) and find the closest store to you. It cost me $52.00 and a 130 mile round trip, but it was worth it.

Hope this helps...JL

marino1313,

I got mine from Soundtrack (Ultimate Electronics). You can buy the screen trim there even if you did not buy your TV there. Both the SF-52 and the SF-62 are $49.95.

Good luck,

Jeff

Will these trim kits work on the 62525?

Originally posted by chaslum
Will these trim kits work on the 62525?

yes...

yes

Besides seeing a "bright spot" has anyone else noticed a slightly greenish tint to pure black on the Mits?? If you turn off video mute and change to a device that is not on you will see a pure black screen.

I had the Sammy HLP4663W and I noticed a greenish tint to the blacks on that set as well.

Thanks!!

Originally posted by Jefftaz


1. For those who have removed the screen from their Mits DLP, does the screen compare to the Samsung DLP screens?
(The one thing I love about the Sammys is that screen is not reflective)

2. I have also heard people state that the Mits is dim compared to other DLP sets, is this true? Is is hard to watch the TV during the bright times of the day?

3. Have people with Mits set concluded that the HDMI up converting DVD players are not working and component produces a better picture?
(I have a Panasonic S97S with HDMI)

4. Overall are you happy with the Mits DLP set?


1. I haven't removed mine but I've seen it removed in the store and yes it is similar. I do get glare in my room from light shining in the grooves of the blinds and it is bad on my 62725.

2. Yes it is dimmer. To give you a good reference, I owned the Samsung HLN617W sold it last June, bought the Toshiba 62HM84 last October but due to HDMI ghosting HH Gregg was kind enough to give me a store credit and I got the Mitsubishi 62725 in its place. The Toshiba was nice and bright so I'm having to get used to the Mits. The Mits is probably around where the HLN Samsung was. The Samsung HLP isn't as bright as the Toshiba so you won't have quite as big of a difference as I've had. You'll find the colors richer than on both Samsungs. I really think part of the brightness issue is that the Mits has the contrast turned down in the service menu. I ran the THX setup last night and with contrast maxed at 63 there isn't any white crush at all. On my Toshiba I had to turn down the contrast so that white wasn't crushed. I personally would not suggest to turn up the brightness too much as black levels will decline. I found that if brightness is turned up over 40 in the daytime that black levels will decline. In a darkened room with a black screen I saw black levels get brighter when setting the brightness above 32 and major changes when setting above 39.

3. I still need to try this but you'll be surprised how good DVDs look with a cheap DVD player. I have a $60 DVD player and it looks very good. If I use my home theater computer over VGA with the resolution at 1280*720, even standard DVDs like the Natural look just about as good as HD. Good quality DVDs do look as good as HD.

4. I miss the brightness and better blacks on the Toshiba but aside this everthing else has improved. Outside of these issues I'm please in every other category. Black levels in a darkened room are as good as the Toshiba though. Your Samsung isn't as punchy as the Toshiba so you won't have as big of change as I've had. And once you setup Netcommand and see how good DVDs look and games too, you'll be very pleased. I never realized how nice it is to have a sharp picture until I got the Mits. It's way sharper than the HLP and is sharper than the HLN and less jaggies. If a knowledgable person could determine how to up the contrast level in the service menu I think brightness could be much improved. I can use my PC and lower the gamma and up the contrast and get a much brighter picture without sacrificing black levels. There's got to be a way to do this in the service menu too.

Wow, finally got around to setting up NetCommand with my WD52725, Hughes D* TiVo, Denon 2805, and Toshiba DVD/VCR combo. Not quite as simple to do as Mits would like you to think, but after a lot of trial and error I've got it all working very well. Should be great for WAF vs. having to keep 4 remotes handy.

Two questions I'm hoping someone can help with:

First: I've seen this problem referenced by other people before, but never saw a solution mentioned. If I power up the TV and D* TiVo is the source at power-up, NetCommand has the STB unit change to channel 3, a non working channel. Not a critical issue as I an always change the channel back to whatever I need, but it bugs me just the same since I don't want it to do that! Anybody found a way to prevent this?

Second: after setting up some components, if I go back in to change configuration, I find the Audio and Video source menu's greyed out so that I can't change them. When I first set up the TiVo box, I goofed and entered TV as the AVR source to select, then had a heck of a time getting it fixed. Wound up completely deleting the setup and starting over. What causes the greying out, and is there a better way to get back in to change those options?

Originally posted by tbone526
Wow, finally got around to setting up NetCommand with my WD52725, Hughes D* TiVo, Denon 2805, and Toshiba DVD/VCR combo. Not quite as simple to do as Mits would like you to think, but after a lot of trial and error I've got it all working very well. Should be great for WAF vs. having to keep 4 remotes handy.

Two questions I'm hoping someone can help with:

First: I've seen this problem referenced by other people before, but never saw a solution mentioned. If I power up the TV and D* TiVo is the source at power-up, NetCommand has the STB unit change to channel 3, a non working channel. Not a critical issue as I an always change the channel back to whatever I need, but it bugs me just the same since I don't want it to do that! Anybody found a way to prevent this?

Second: after setting up some components, if I go back in to change configuration, I find the Audio and Video source menu's greyed out so that I can't change them. When I first set up the TiVo box, I goofed and entered TV as the AVR source to select, then had a heck of a time getting it fixed. Wound up completely deleting the setup and starting over. What causes the greying out, and is there a better way to get back in to change those options?

I must aggree that Netcommand is a pretty slick feature of the Mits TV's. I bought a Pronto 3000 HT remote and had it all set up, and have barely touched it since I got the Mits' Netcommand set up. It really works nicely.

For your other items, I don't know of any way to prevent the switch to channel 3 of the Tivo. My Series 2 standalone does the same thing if I turn off the TV while it is on the Tivo input. It doesn't do it, obviously, if I turn it off while it is on a different input. I also have issues with trying to use the Tivo as the secondary source when doing PIP/POP stuff.

For the Graying out issue, I had the same problem. I ended up deleting the configuration and starting over. I also have a limited number of digital inputs on my AV receiver, and I found that by telling Netcommand that it had 7 inputs up front let me set additional inputs for it. For example, I have a Dish 811 receiver that has component out and DVI out. I have both of them connected, and the optical output connected to the receiver. I set up two "different" inputs for the AVR, one called "Optic1" and the other "Optic2". Both of them have the same remote command, but the Mits still thinks they are different, so i can get the receiver to switch to the correct input when the TV is set to these video inputs. I don't know if this really answered your question, but i think this might be a useful tip for some people. I use the same concept for connection my DVD player to the AVR, since I have to swap the cable in the back when I want the DVD to send digital audio to the AVR. It is actually the 3rd component that uses that same input on the receiver (but it is called "Optic3" in the case of the DVD).

Thanks,
Jeff

FYI... For those of you who removed your protective screen, the screen frame (i.e. trim kit) is available at Good Guys, at least the one in Tigard, Oregon. They are asking MSRP which I believe is 49.99 for the SF-52. Just picked one up last weekend. The box has a nice bubble pack that you can use to store your protective screen. Didn't ask about the 62 incher...

Originally posted by spiff72
For the Graying out issue, I had the same problem. I ended up deleting the configuration and starting over. This happens because the currently active input on the TV is that same device. All you need to do is switch the currently displayed device to something else, that will "un-gray" the one you're interested in.
Bottom line, whichever input the TV is currently viewing is always grayed out.

Originally posted by tbone526
.... NetCommand has the STB unit change to channel 3, a non working channel. <snip> Anybody found a way to prevent this?
Don't think it can be done... Pretty sure Mits did this in Netcommand "just in case" someone has a VCR in front of the STB on the RF coax.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
This happens because the currently active input on the TV is that same device. All you need to do is switch the currently displayed device to something else, that will "un-gray" the one you're interested in.
Bottom line, whichever input the TV is currently viewing is always grayed out.

I think the problem I had was that I wanted to add inputs to my "other" AVR. I originally set it up with 3 inputs, and later wanted it to have additional ones so I could duplicate the ones I had to use for more than one component (or multiple connections from one component). Sorry if I misled anyone there.

Jeff

While I was at my local Mits dealer, I happened to see a WD-52327. From my initial observation, it did NOT have any kind of shield over the screen (for those concerned about glare). Checked briefly on www.mitsubishi-tv.com, and also learned that this set does NOT have an internal HD tuner. So, it would appear this set is worth considering for someone using a cable-box (and thus don't need the internal tuner), AND who's concerned about glare. Not sure what other options are different, so caveat emptor.

Myself, I get my HD from OTA, so I couldn't live without the internal tuner, and glare isn't a problem in the basement so I'll stick with my WD-52725.

tbone526 - i think the 52327 is reported to use weird 1080i electronics and not even accept a 720p signal, which of course makes no sense on a native 720p fixed pixel display. rumor has it they just yanked the electronics off of one of their CRT RPTV's and hooked it up to an unknown light engine. at least that's what i've read here when i searched on this model earlier.

I have searched around a little bit to see if anyone else experiences eye strain or headaches when watching these tv's? I was watching the 52525 in Sears the other day and noticed that my eyes began to hurt after only around 15 minutes of watching. Does anyone else experience this sort of thing?

No eye strain here.

Dealers jack up the brightness and other settings to make the TV look as bright as possible. This tactic draws in customers such as yourself.

How far were you standing/sitting from the TV? If you stand in front of a 52" TV for 15 minutes and are only 3-5 feet away, I imagine your eyes would start to hurt.....especially with the settings jacked up.

I anticipated that I was standing too close, so I moved back. I was probably 10 feet away from the 52" tv. I do agree that they probably had the settings up pretty high, I didn't think about that as a factor.

In any case, I appreciate the input!

I sit about 12' away from my set, and I've got everything toned back down to the normal range. The only setting I really adjust is Tint, which I have at about 26 (vs. midpoint of 31 for everything else).

Tip for everyday watching: My setup is in the lower level, so there is no glare issue, and I can watch in complete darkness if I want, but I've actually found that doing so hurts after a while. I started keeping a 40W lamp turned on off to the side where it doesn't reflect on the screen and gives enough ambient light to the room so that I don't get a headache after a couple hours.

Thanks very much for the tips and experiences!

Question for you guys....I have the Mit 52525. Love everything about it so far. When I switch the input to my DVD player, however, is there anyway to set it to always turn the TV speakers off automatically? Right now I have to go into the menu each time and turn them off myself. I thought it would remember your settings, but mine does not. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You can set it up to do that in netcommand. But you have to set up a receiver first. Then you can tell netcommand that the audio for the DVD player input will be the receiver, and the TV's speakers will turn off.

thanks for the reply. My reciever and my DVD player are the same unit. It's a Sony receiver and 5disc player all in one. I've been having trouble setting it up with netcommand. anyone else have any experience with anything like this?

My question is: Why do you use your TV speakers at all?

If you have speakers hooked up to your receiver, why don't you use them for all your audio/video components?

Am I wrong in assuming this is the proper set-up for an entertainment system?

I don't use my TV speakers at all. And with a lot of HD programming using 5.1 digital audio these days, it is a good idea to use a receiver even for viewing TV.

However, he did say that he has an all in one receiver/DVD player. Those don't usually have extra digital inputs so he might not be able to utilize the digital output of the TV. :(

That is correct, my current receiver does not have an extra digital input for the TV...I know, I need a new receiver. Also, right now, I can get my TV remote to control my receiver at all, so I would have to use two remotes just to control the volume.

Which brings me back to my netcommand question. Right now, I have my tv remote setup to control my DirectTV receiver, works great. Is there anyway I can get the remote to control my receivers volume?

Like many others, I had some shady/gray spots appear on my screen a little over a month ago. Thanks to this forum and some other posts, I found out that it was dust on the mirrors inside the TV. Well, I convinced Mits to have my mirrors cleaned for me and they sent out a company yesterday. I was shocked at how much dust had accumulated on the small mirror. To say there was some dust on the mirror would be a gross understatement, it was completely covered with it. I have had my 62525 for around 8 months now and just recently started questioning the picture quality (PQ). I didn't know if I had just grown accustomed to HD and my lower jaw had finally reattached itself to its lonely upper half OR if the shows I was watching just weren't broadcast/filmed in the same manner.

Well let me just say that my eyes were not deceiving me and my jaw is once again on the floor. The PQ improved dramatically. I guess all that dust "fuzzed" up the picture somewhat.

Now I don't want to mislead anyone. Before the mirror was cleaned I could still tell if shows were being broadcast in HD. It was just that the HD programming was not as crisp as I thought it should be/once was. Lets just say that I will be cleaning my mirrors regularly.

Thanks to everyone again!

I'm a pretty good surfer but heck if I can find how to get to the menu where I can calibrate contrast, brightness, etc. on the 52525 I had delivered this morning. All I see is the PerfectColor option. I want to use Sound & Vision's TuneUp disk.

video button on the remote. :)

Oh My God! Who woulda thought? I have to admit the manual is really lacking for this unit but what a picture! After looking forever I posted only to find the controls minutes later under Menu->Audio Video. But the Video button is even nicer. Thanks.

All I can say is I'm sure glad I got this sucker in before the Final Four!

Originally posted by JonV
Oh My God! Who woulda thought? I have to admit the manual is really lacking for this unit but what a picture! After looking forever I posted only to find the controls minutes later under Menu->Audio Video. But the Video button is even nicer. Thanks.

All I can say is I'm sure glad I got this sucker in before the Final Four!

The manual is "lacking"? In what respect? There are many WD-xx525/625/725 owners who frequent this thread and I don't remember anyone making that observation before.

Regards...JL

Perhaps I spoke too quickly about the manual. I was doing a quick scan for remote operations and video settings for calibration. I must have been too desparate in my setup. Sitting here tonight with a more relaxed read uncovered them in the guide. My bad. I was trying too fast!

Originally posted by JonV
Perhaps I spoke too quickly about the manual. I was doing a quick scan for remote operations and video settings for calibration. I must have been too desparate in my setup. Sitting here tonight with a more relaxed read uncovered them in the guide. My bad. I was trying too fast!

JonV:
Welcome to the club. I hope you enjoy your WD-52525 as much as I've enjoyed mine. I've had mine since 7/04 and I am still amazed by its PQ and features. The most important thing is to read the manual throughly. If you need clarification on some settings, post your question here. Someone has the answer.

Good luck....JL

Remember that you can download the manual in pdf form from www.mitsubishi-tv.com, and you can search pdf files.

Thanks for the welcome. I've calibrated the set using Sound & Vision's TuneUp disk. It takes me through the contrast, brightness, sharpness, color and tint. First question is whether some of you also tweak the PerfectColor settings (individual colors). I saw one person's settings in the forum but other just posted the former settings I mentioned. Second question is whether the DVE disk I saw at Best Buy is better/worse/different that my TuneUp disk from S&V. Is it worth getting in addition?

Using the perfect color controls along with a color bar pattern and color filters (red, blue, and green) is the best way to get the most accurate colors. I leave the tint and color set to 31 and just adjust the perfectcolor settings.

I think I spoke too soon when I said my TV was smudge free. I am now seeing dark smudges while I watch the Frozen Four Hockey championship on ESPN-HD. The white ice makes them more obvious.

I want to take the TV apart and clean it, but my wife is gone, so I will probably have trouble putting the screen back on. I will have to wait til she is back.

To prevent this, is there some sort of antistatic cleaner that could be used on the mirror? I was thinking of using one of those premoistened eyeglass cleaner wipes after i got the dust off.

Do you think this would be a good idea?

Thanks,
Jeff

Can I watch a "Widescreen" DVD on my Mits 62525 without any black bars on the top and bottom (horizontal) AND still not distort any of the picture (stretching up/down or left/right)?

I have seen the diferent "ratios" that DVD's come in (I think they call it amphoric (sp)) on the back cover of the DVD's. Do these numbers tell me if I can watch it in "full screen" or if I need to have a little letterboxing?

Which "Format" (Standard, Zoom, etc.) should I use for these different "ratios"?

All input is appreciated.

Originally posted by DubC
Can I watch a "Widescreen" DVD on my Mits 62525 without any black bars on the top and bottom (horizontal) AND still not distort any of the picture (stretching up/down or left/right)?

I have seen the diferent "ratios" that DVD's come in (I think they call it amphoric (sp)) on the back cover of the DVD's. Do these numbers tell me if I can watch it in "full screen" or if I need to have a little letterboxing?

Which "Format" (Standard, Zoom, etc.) should I use for these different "ratios"?

All input is appreciated.

There's a thread somewhere on this site that discusses this question, but in short:

If the movie is in an even wider ratio than 16:9, such as 1.85:1 or 2.33:1, you'll still get some thin black bars top and bottom.

I just use standard format for all DVD's. If you use Zoom or Expand, you're going to crop parts of the picture (and isn't that what we're all trying to avoid when we buy these big-a$$ TV's?)

In the same vein: since I don't yet have HD D* service (all my HD is OTA), when I watch certain shows on Discovery or Sci-Fi that are presented in widescreen format, I wind up with bars on every side, which is extremely annoying. For these shows, I use the Expand format, which gives me everything side to side, and cuts off a VERY tiny bit top and bottom.

You can give yourself a comparison of how much picture you're losing by pausing a scene, noting what is visible, and cycling through the different options. What format you choose to view in is a personal preference. Some people watch SD television in one of the stretch modes, but I find it too annoying. YMMV.

So which ratio is true 16:9?

Originally posted by DubC
So which ratio is true 16:9?

16:9 is approximately equal (mathematically speaking) to 1.78:1

Ratios and their intended use:

4:3 : NTSC standard / digital television and pre-1950’s movies
16:9 : HDTV digital television
1.85:1 : Hollywood widescreen movie
2.35:1 : Hollywood widescreen movie (even wider than 1.85:1)

Thus, on a 16:9 HDTV (regardless if the TV is 1080i / 720p / 1080p / etc…) 4:3 will lead you to see black bars on either side the picture, 1.85:1 will lead to very thin black bars on top and bottom of the picture, and 2.35:1 will lead to slightly thicker than 1.85:1 black bars at top and bottom of the picture (to generalize, this could be considered ‘letterbox’ when speaking in 16:9 terms). Only 16:9 HDTV broadcasts will lead to a perfect aspect ratio fitting a 16:9 TV.

In other words with all these formats buy a TV that is not susceptible to burn-in…it will make your life easier.

Jon.

P.S. This is all based on information I have read on this forum and elsewhere, if I made an error please, correct me.

Just calibrated my TV using DVE. Thought I would share mine to BUMP this thread and potentially help someone out.

These settings were calibrated using a pretty basic Sony Progressive Scan DVD Player running component cables directly to the TV. To some of you they will look like crap, but to those of you who are willing to try them out...

Tint--------39
Color-------28
Sharpness--20
Brightness--47
Contrast----34
Defining Edge---On
Video Noise-----Standard
Color Temp------Low

Magenta--30
Red-------44
Yellow-----39
Green-----42
Cyan------38
Blue-------30


Don't hesitate to tell me if the settings look horrible. I welcome all input.

I've got a 62525 that I've had for about 6 months now. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a new problem (my second, I had the tilt problem, but not the bright spot). On random occassions, the video inputs stop working momentarily. I can switch to another input, and go back, and then it works OK, at least for a short while. The audio and video both go out, and the screen goes to a blue background (although, sometimes, it just goes black). It doesn't do it all the time, or every day. Maybe several times per week. I can hit the devicec button, and the display will show the inputs I can scroll through. So I'm confident it's not the bulb or the microdisplay. If it were either of these, even the device menu screen wouldn't show. Plus, I can look into the side of the unit and see the bright light shining out.

I have an SA8000HD on COMP1 and an analog DVR on Input2. This happens on both of these inputs. I have not checked the other inputs, but I suspect the issue is there too. I forget my firmware version number, but it was one of the early ones (the part of the version that has been changing over the months is 001 or whatever).

I've done searches here and couldn't find an answer. Maybe I'm not using the right key words.

Has anyone seen this problem before? Any ideas?

TIA for any advice.

Jeff

I haven't seen this problem posted before. I'd call Mits.

Good luck.

I must be the first. I posted this on the xx725 thread, and no one recognized this problem. I called Mits. & got a software upgrade on CF, which didn't help this problem. I've got a call in to my local repair shop. He can't make it until after Memorial Day. That'll give him time to call Mits. for advice on the problem, and do other research before he shows up.

I have reappeared for all you fellow WD owners (who might still be subscribed to this thread) because after being one of the first folks to post a review of the set here, it looks like I'm one of the first to replace the projector lamp now too.

My post is over in this here thread... (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5670123#post5670123) :)

Thanks for the report Reynard. Having bought my set a couple weeks after you and logging 2200 hours on it I'm a bit disappointed to see this. On the other hand I do think you are the first to report a bulb failure, which is a positive sign for owners or prospective owners of these sets. No (very) premature failures. Yet. Knock knock.

My HTPC has an All in Wonder ATI video card and for one of the inputs on my PC I'm using the custom resolution of 1776*1000 and it fits the screen very good over component. However, it is at 30Hz and there is flickering. Has anyone tried this and were successful in removing the flicker? Oddly enough, this TV replace a Toshiba DLP that I had and with all the same settings there was no flickering on it :confused: .

Why such a high resolution?

Use 1280x720. Or lower than that like 1200x666 to get rid of the overscan.

Why such a high resolution?

Use 1280x720. Or lower than that like 1200x666 to get rid of the overscan.

I was rather puzzled by that high resolution too.

When I had my PC hooked to the TV, I was running at 1184x666, IIRC.

Why such a high resolution?

Use 1280x720. Or lower than that like 1200x666 to get rid of the overscan.

I have one connection from DVI-> VGA at 1280*720 for PC type applications. Have a game or two where that resolution doesn't fill the screen properly. If I use component at 1776*1000 the TV sets the mode to 1080i and fills the screen correctly. I get no flicker in the game but do get it in Windows applications.

You are getting flicker in the games, too. You just can't see it because stuff is moving around on the screen. Plus you are making your video card work hard than it has to at the higher resolution.

Your TV can't display more than 1280x720 pixels. More than that, and the processor in the TV just throws away the data.

How are you generating these resolutions? If it is an interface that lets you specify your own timings, I can post the ones that work perfectly for me when I get home tonight.

The one mode I use for everything is 1216x684, I believe. It has a tiny bit of overscan, but there is zero flickering with the timings that I use. It works well for games and video, but like I said, there are a few pixels of overscan on all sides.

spiff, could you post your timings for the 1184x666?

The resolution I would really like to use is 1208x680, but I can't get that one to work without flicker.

See this post for my timings...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5532782&&#post5532782

I have V26 004.05 and need to know if this is the latest version. The firmware is pretty stable, but I lose the DD audio on encrypted channels when using the CC. Worked fine using 004.04, but not 05. The DD audio is fine for non encrypted channels and ALL channels are OK using the STB.

TIA.....JL

Thanks for the report Reynard. Having bought my set a couple weeks after you and logging 2200 hours on it I'm a bit disappointed to see this. On the other hand I do think you are the first to report a bulb failure, which is a positive sign for owners or prospective owners of these sets. No (very) premature failures. Yet. Knock knock.

Actually, I had an infant failure on my 62725 last October at about 400 hrs.
Mits replaced under warranty and it's still good at ~ 2800 hrs.

Rick

I have V26 004.05 and need to know if this is the latest version. The firmware is pretty stable, but I lose the DD audio on encrypted channels when using the CC. Worked fine using 004.04, but not 05. The DD audio is fine for non encrypted channels and ALL channels are OK using the STB.

TIA.....JL


Your best bet is to call Mitsubishi. It's very possible they are reving firmware based on serial numbers, not just models. Additionally, the FW rev that shows in the menu may not be the actual FW build.

Field service is probably getting somewhat of a grip on these issues as well. When I had mine looked at last October (partial lamp failure), the local tech was pretty clueless as to how to proceed. Hopefully they're only half-clueless now :-)

Another post requesting info on what latest firmware is, and how it differs from V4.05 ???

They were reporting that the Sammy will have a much better contrast ratio the Mits, does anyone know if that is true?

They were reporting that the Sammy will have a much better contrast ratio the Mits, does anyone know if that is true?

Who was reporting this? :)

No, it's not true. They both have the same chip and since the Mitsubishi's have the more expensive electronics, if anything, they will will have the better contrast ratio, but basically all the 1080P DLP's will have around the same. You will have to wait quite a while to have all the different sets coming out measured by independent reviewers. The buzz is Toshiba will be the best of the 1080P DLP crop this year, but they won't be out for a months. we'll have to wait and see.

Another post requesting info on what latest firmware is, and how it differs from V4.05 ???

I contacted Mits and the current version is V4.05.

Hope this helps...JL

and since the Mitsubishi's have the more expensive electronics, if anything, they will will have the better contrast ratio,

LMAO - and I have some swamp land I would like to sell you.

There is no direct correlation between price and quality. The most expensive external scalers can easily be beat with a properly configured HTPC at less than one fifth the cost.

Has anyone heard about the trim kits for the Mits 62525's? I haven't had my reflective screen on for a while but I would really like to put a border with the "Mitsubishi" lettering back up over the unfinished bezel! Anybody know where I can order one of these frames?

Chas.

Has anyone heard about the trim kits for the Mits 62525's? I haven't had my reflective screen on for a while but I would really like to put a border with the "Mitsubishi" lettering back up over the unfinished bezel! Anybody know where I can order one of these frames?

Chas.

I purchased a trim kit for my WD-54525 from Tweeter in 01/05 for approx. $45+tax. I would check their website (http://www.tweeter.com/home/index.jsp) and contact the nearest location.

Hope this helps...JL

I've got a question or two about lip synch issues. Did a general search and one within the thread but didn't luck in to a post that offered a clear answer.

I've had my 62525 for a few months now and, be it in my head or not, I seem to be noticing a SLIGHT issue with audio synch as of late. I can't pin point it but something just feels a bit off at times. Like I said it could simply be paranoia but it's driving me nuts when I'm watching a movie and spending most of the time playing lip reader rather than enjoying the movie :rolleyes:

If it's such a minor issue in this case is there anything out there on the market, or perhaps even a particular DVD in which identifying this problem is easier than with others, that might put my concerns at rest??

The only time I have noticed Audio Sync issues I have traced it back to my DVR/Cable Box. Usually I just stop the program and then start it back up again to remedy the problem. I have never experienced this issue with DVDs. I have had my set for about a year now.

Audio synch problems usually originate at the media source. Check all your cables and input devices. Cable/Satellite TV transmissions are the worse offenders.

Good luck...JL

That's strange, to me any issue I've seen (or believe I've seen) has typically been with DVDs. From analog to HD broadcasts I've never noticed this issue. At present I'm using a Denon 3910 with this particular setup so while I highly doubt it's an issue with the DVD player I will test a couple other players and see if I can pinpoint the same problem.

I have a chance to get a new 62" 3 series for $2250 0r a 7 series for $2500 or a 62628 for $3600. Here's my dilema. Do I really need the extra technology of the 62628 even though there is no 1080p content and won't be any for a couple of years? I love the fact that it is brighter but $1100 or more for brightness is alot. Does anyone see any other reasons to buy this way advanced technologies or should I wait a couple of years to when the prices come down and the technology can be used more. Thanks guys. Total newbie!

I have a chance to get a new 62" 3 series for $2250 0r a 7 series for $2500 or a 62628 for $3600. Here's my dilema. Do I really need the extra technology of the 62628 even though there is no 1080p content and won't be any for a couple of years? I love the fact that it is brighter but $1100 or more for brightness is alot. Does anyone see any other reasons to buy this way advanced technologies or should I wait a couple of years to when the prices come down and the technology can be used more. Thanks guys. Total newbie!

I second this post. Like most people, I am on a tight budget and am somewhat torn between getting a smaller screen with the latest technology (1080p) vs. a larger screen, albeit not as high resolution (720p).

I'm trying to decide between the Mits 62627 or a Hitachi 70VS810. And I'm wondering if a 70" TV being viewed at 12' in 1280 x 720p would have significant SDE? I really like the Hitachi better but have been unable to see it running b/c CC doesn't have a feed that's working. Also, is $3699 a decent price on the 62627? That's what I've gotten Sears down to. The price I can get on the 70VS810 is $4499.

Thx.

Looking at an ad for the Toshiba 52HM84 / 52-Inch / 16:9 / Rear Projection DLP HDTV. Any owners out care to give me a little advise? Good TI chip is all I really know about it.Thanks in advance.

Looking at an ad for the Toshiba 52HM84 / 52-Inch / 16:9 / Rear Projection DLP HDTV. Any owners out care to give me a little advise? Good TI chip is all I really know about it.Thanks in advance.

Sure...no problem. Ask some people that own that set!!!! ;) I love my Mits, but I have heard good thing about the Toshiba, as well...good luck!

Looking at an ad for the Toshiba 52HM84 / 52-Inch / 16:9 / Rear Projection DLP HDTV. Any owners out care to give me a little advise? Good TI chip is all I really know about it.Thanks in advance.

Just an FYI, that's last years Toshiba. This years models and the Mits' are nicer IMO. I had last years 62" version and it had ghosting on the HDMI port FYI and had it replaced with a Mits.

I second this post. Like most people, I am on a tight budget and am somewhat torn between getting a smaller screen with the latest technology (1080p) vs. a larger screen, albeit not as high resolution (720p).
Thx.

I'd go with the newer technology if you plan to watch any SD material. I'm a pro who needed to buy a 1080P monitor for my business---but monitoring mostly SD material with an eye towards its suitability for future upconversion. I knew that good scaling was available, for a pretty penny, after seeing the first Faroudja demonstrations a decade ago. After an expensive SD CRT monitor failed at my facility a couple of years ago, I bought a 720P Panasonic plasma display in hopes that it could scale SD material reasonably well. I was very disappointed...even feeding the component input with an expensive 10bit D to A left much to be desired.
Zoom to today...I took the plunge again, choosing a 52" Mitsubishi 1080P DLP after scrutinzing 1080P Samsungs and the new Sony SXRD sets. Even with this purchase, I was expecting to end up buying an external scaler to really get the most out of SD material...but I find myself absolutely amazed at the scaling ability. I'm feeding the monitor native DVCAM material via firewire, and the results are just amazing...even an educated eye might be fooled into thinking the stuff was native HD at first glance. What a difference a couple of years makes in this business. :D

Regards,
Gov
_________________________
Mitsubishi WD-52628
Sony DSR-1500A
Sony DVW-500
Sony PVW-1500
Sony BVW-70
Sony BVH-2000
Sony FX-1
various computers with various software

can some body please give me there best set ups (settings) fro the Mitsu- WD 52525?

Hola..

This is my first post to this forum!
I've been lurking for a while now spending far too much time reading posts.


I got a Mitsubishi WD-52525 a few months back (Labor Day to be exact)
Got a really great deal on it, and I'm very happy with it. It's a 2005 model, and so far (knock wood), I haven't experienced any of the nagging issues I see others are having.

Anyhooo.....I've calibrated my DVD and XBOX inputs using the THX Optimizer, and have gotten a killer picture on those inputs. The Direct TV input (I'm currently running S-Video), I eyeballed, and it looks pretty good. I am about to get a HD reciever from DirectTv so that'll help :-)

I was thinking about purchasing the AVIA setup disk, as the THX Optimizer leaves a bit to be desired.

I was wondering how satisfied users are with this disk and if it is worth the money. I don't have the THX Blue glasses so I just eyeballed the tint settings, but I understand the AVIA disk comes with filters.

So in summary, how easy is setup with AVIA, and also how do you do say your cable/satellite input???? Did you hook your DVD player up to that input?

Thanks in advance for any comments!!

Great forum BTW

Shawn

Shawn:
Not sure I can provide a lot of help, but....
First I noticed a difference between the THX (with their glasses) and AVIA. Was one better than the other? I can't say for sure but I think I liked the AVIA better. The fact that what I liked better becomes the bottom line. For the price of the AVIA DVD against the cost of your TV, I just felt is was worth it. Using it was very simple as it comes with a full set of instructions.
You can try to set up the cable/sat input by tunning into HDNET on Tuesday mornings when they broadcast a setup signal. I recorded it for future reference. Check HDNET.com (I think) and look for the schedule. I think it is around 7 or 8 am eastern time. Of course when I finished, I changed the settings because I didn't like them exactly.
I keep feeling like I should spend the $ to have my set professionally calibrated since so many others just rave about how much better it looks afterwards. My hesitation is that knowing my personality, I would most likely change whatever the calibrator did because I might not like it.

I honestly dont think the THX optimizer can even compare to what AVIA can do in terms of calibration. I heard that the THX optimizer is often engineered for the specific movie it's packaged with.

AVIA is more of a blanket calibration for all DVDs. (mostly)

Also, AVIA is very easy to use.... even for a moron like myself.

And lemme summarize by saying that the difference on my new set when going from factory to AVIA calibration was TREMENDOUS.

Good luck.

Happy New Year.

My WD-52525 currently has FW version 26 004.05 and have been told by Mits that this is the current version. Can fellow WD-XX525 owners confirm this for me please? I would like new owners to check their FW versions to see what version their sets have. I am trying to resolve a CC audio issue that popped up after upgrading from .04 to .05. I wanted to down grade back to .04, but Mits said this wasn't possible.

TIA....JL

Happy New Year.

My WD-52525 currently has FW version 26 004.05 and have been told by Mits that this is the current version. Can fellow WD-XX525 owners confirm this for me please? I would like new owners to check their FW versions to see what version their sets have. I am trying to resolve a CC audio issue that popped up after upgrading from .04 to .05. I wanted to down grade back to .04, but Mits said this wasn't possible.

TIA....JL

V26 004.05 is the version I have. (WD-62525)

I've had my 62525 since August 2004. Today was the first time I've cleaned the side filter and mirrors.

Like others, I had the blotches appearing, and thought the picture and colors were getting dull. Removal of the screen proved to be very easy. Just need a phillips screwdriver, and you're set.

I would definitely recommend that you have some duct tape ready. I also had the problem of the loose foam around the lens-which may be a big contributor to all the dust on the mirror. I sealed all of the open area, and hopefully it will slow down the dust invasion.

I guess the thing that amazed me most is the amount of dust that gets inside. I had a 50" Mitsu rear projection for 10 years, and never saw this much dust on the mirror. I didn't pull the cabinet off of that for the first 7 or 8 years, either. I'm guessing that with the fans circulating air inside, it's bound to pull dust in.

The picture looks great once again-no blotches, and the colors are popping once again. Picture appears brighter, as well. Don't be afraid to try it at home!

How difficult is it to access/clean the mirror? My 52525 is as old as your unit and I would like to clean the mirror.

TIA....JL

It's VERY easy:

-remove speaker grille
-remove 2 screws that hold bottom corners of screen
-remove 2 screws that hold the plastic bottom portion that the controls are attached to
-remove 4 screws that hold the panel in the middle of the tv under the screen-unplug the connector
-remove the screws all along the outer side and top edges
-take care to slowly pry the screen off all around
-lift screen up and out (this part can be done solo if you have long enough arms)
-you'll see a big hollow space, and the mirror is exposed in the middle on the bottom
-I took a vacuum with my dust attachment and got the big dust balls out first (I also vacuumed all around the outside and edges with the dust att. to make sure there would be no excessive crap falling in).
-I then used my screen cleaning kit with lint free rag and special cleaner to wipe the mirrors down
-I used some small strip duct tape to cover up the hole where the foam had came unglued (apparently common) next to the lens
-I have the 62", so it helped to have my girlfriend to assist with replacing the screen. It isn't difficult, but you need to make sure all the edges line up
-replace all the screws where the arrows point to, and no need to torque them down a ton

I was able to successfully record 20 minutes of NBC in HD last night and it was perfect. Playback was just fine. However, there is no VCR menu over the firewire connection. If there is supposed to be, then something else is amiss. I just get the TV's transport menu for FF/REW/PLAY/etc... I think overall there are some issues with the 525 - HD2000U link that can probably be addressed, but gross functionality in terms of recording and playback is fine. Maybe Mitsubishi never was able to test the thing with a cablecard and that is the main problem. I do think that if you were to take a D-VHS tape, it would play back with no issues.

UMD_Terp,
I know your post is from a while back. However, I just purchased the HD1100U VCR (to tape Olympics in HD), but am unable to get it to work. Here is the situation: The TV is connected to the D-VCR by IEEE cable, the TV is connected to Cable by Cablecard as well as HDMI from a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD. When I press Record on the TV and follow the instructions to record, the TV displays a message saying that "Recording on DVCR has started" along with another message that "mode on DVCR is Record". However, there is nothing recorded, and within a few seconds, there is a message saying that the "Digital link between TV and DVCR is disconnected". I have tried this with both Cablecard and the Cable Box as sources, with the same results. The VCR itself seems to record since I can record with the non-HD Composite inputs. I also feel it is the TV because I saw the same behavior when I hooked up a Pioneer DVD Recorder (510H) to the TV. It too had the same result, that is, first a message saying that Recording has started, followed by another saying the D-link has been disconnected. (I should add that with the Pioneer, I was informed by a friend that the IEEE link on the Pioneer is meant only for Camcorders.) Any ideas? Thanks.

admittedly i haven't read through all 82 pages of this thread. my uncle has a wd-62525 that he has had the lamp go out on and so he needs to replace it. the set is out of warranty and i told him that i would try to find a cheap online place to order a replacement bulb from. does anyone know of a good reliable site to order a lamp from?

thanks.

Try the Mits xx725 or 1080p thead. they are more current.

Do a google search on the model # of the bulb. You're sure to get results.

I just replaced the lamp in my 52525 and when I powered up I did not get the "did you just replace your lamp" message.

How can I manually make this message pop-up or how can I reset the lamp counter in the 2470 system menu?

I am currently showing 4925 hours and would like to have the accurate count on the new lamp.

I just replaced the lamp in my 52525 and when I powered up I did not get the "did you just replace your lamp" message.

How can I manually make this message pop-up or how can I reset the lamp counter in the 2470 system menu?

I am currently showing 4925 hours and would like to have the accurate count on the new lamp.

That is odd. If you unplug the set, it should come up with that question the next time you turn it on (after plugging it back in, of course! ;) ).

-Randy

That is odd. If you unplug the set, it should come up with that question the next time you turn it on

Tried that. Several times. When I plug it back in, the green light flashes for a minute or two but when the TV comes back on...no message.

Do I need to press 'power' while the green light is flasshing or something?

Tried that. Several times. When I plug it back in, the green light flashes for a minute or two but when the TV comes back on...no message.

Do I need to press 'power' while the green light is flasshing or something?

I've never had to...any time my set has been unplugged it asks the question. The only thing I can think of trying at this point is to do a reset on the set and then do the unplug thing. I can't think of why that could help (unless something is stored in some non-volatile memory or something), but it is all I can think of to try...

If that doesn't work, my next step would be to call Mits....

I've never had to...any time my set has been unplugged it asks the question. The only thing I can think of trying at this point is to do a reset on the set and then do the unplug thing. I can't think of why that could help (unless something is stored in some non-volatile memory or something), but it is all I can think of to try...

If that doesn't work, my next step would be to call Mits....

My set (with the latest firmware) hasn't asked me that question in a very long time. I thought they might have removed it from the boot-up process with one of the firmware updates.

I have recently added a UPS to mine, but there have been a few times where the power was out for more than an hour, and I don't get it after those startups either.

With earlier versions of the firmware, my tv would always display the reset message after first power on after being unplugged. With the latest firmware version this message went away.
Recently I replaced the lamp and was able to reset the lamp hour counter by pressing the 'Enter' button on the remote a few seconds after the first power on after being unplugged. I did this while the screen was still dark. Not certain about the exact timing, some experimentation may be required.

Okay, that makes sense. I am still on my original firmware. I may have to break down and upgrade, though...I've recently had the digital channels on QAM and ATSC disappear a couple of times...and rescanning gets to be a pain!

-Randy

Thanks BearGator56 !!!! This is an excellent post..

I have the WD-62825, and got it back in 2004, I think.. Hahaha.. eitherway it's about 2 years.. Finally my LAMP light is on, but it's yellow.. i'm going to wait till its red or out.. But all this time I thought it was the blub that was low.. So I was trying to figure out how to make the picture brighter.. but no matter what I did.. it was just dull and dark.

Eurika !! I find this post.. It's almost the same, for the WD-62825. Basically, you need to remove all screws around the speakers, the 2 screws for the protective plate in the center, behind that is 2 more screws, then finally you'll see 2 more screws (on a siliver metal in the middle).

When I looked at the lower mirror.. I didn't think it was a mirror.. Hahahhaah !! It was so brown, I thought it was just a fabric cover.. Hahaha... Holy smokes it's the mirrior.. took out the vaccum, sucked everything up.. wipe everything down, use that special cleaner for the Tv screen for the mirrios.,

I put tape all around the lens, so no light gets thru except the lens..

I put everything back together and OMG !!! it's like a brandnew TV !! holy smokes... I was missing out bigtime.. No more dull, grainy, dark picture.. also, no more light pollution .. and no more spots !!

Thanks again !!



It's VERY easy:

-remove speaker grille
-remove 2 screws that hold bottom corners of screen
-remove 2 screws that hold the plastic bottom portion that the controls are attached to
-remove 4 screws that hold the panel in the middle of the tv under the screen-unplug the connector
-remove the screws all along the outer side and top edges
-take care to slowly pry the screen off all around
-lift screen up and out (this part can be done solo if you have long enough arms)
-you'll see a big hollow space, and the mirror is exposed in the middle on the bottom
-I took a vacuum with my dust attachment and got the big dust balls out first (I also vacuumed all around the outside and edges with the dust att. to make sure there would be no excessive crap falling in).
-I then used my screen cleaning kit with lint free rag and special cleaner to wipe the mirrors down
-I used some small strip duct tape to cover up the hole where the foam had came unglued (apparently common) next to the lens
-I have the 62", so it helped to have my girlfriend to assist with replacing the screen. It isn't difficult, but you need to make sure all the edges line up
-replace all the screws where the arrows point to, and no need to torque them down a ton

I wouldn't wait too long after the yellow light comes on to buy a new lamp. Mine turned yellow a month ago. I ordered a new lamp 2 weeks ago. It arrived last Friday. On Sunday the bulb blew!

Yes, I consider myself to be very lucky. :)

It will take about a week to get a new bulb. Hope it doesn't happen just before the Super Bowl. ;)

Is there a good step by step guide to rmoving the protective screen? I can't seem to get it out and I've followed the manual instructions and even had friends try.

I wouldn't wait too long after the yellow light comes on to buy a new lamp. Mine turned yellow a month ago. I ordered a new lamp 2 weeks ago. It arrived last Friday. On Sunday the bulb blew!

Yes, I consider myself to be very lucky. :)

It will take about a week to get a new bulb. Hope it doesn't happen just before the Super Bowl. ;)

My WD-52525's lamp light came on yellow also, but I can't replace it because I have an extended warranty that covers it. It has to go out completely before it gets replaced. Do you think I should order one out of pocket anyway? I will clean my mirror also when I replace the lamp.

TIA.....JL

My Best Buy extended warranty covered it, too. But they gave me 2 options. First was to send someone out to diagnose. Second option was to just get a new lamp since the TV was telling me that the lamp was going to blow.

I went with option 2. I did not have a tech come to replace the lamp.

Just tell your warranty representative that you don't want to be without a TV for a week when the lamp finally does blow.

My WD-52525's lamp light came on yellow also, but I can't replace it because I have an extended warranty that covers it. It has to go out completely before it gets replaced. Do you think I should order one out of pocket anyway? I will clean my mirror also when I replace the lamp.

TIA.....JL


Is that the official Mitsubishi Extended Warranty? Curious if thats the way they do it.


How many hours were on your bulb when it went Yellow?

Is that the official Mitsubishi Extended Warranty? Curious if thats the way they do it.


How many hours were on your bulb when it went Yellow?

Shape: Thanks for your response. I am going to speak to my friend at PC Richard and get his input.

No, I got my TV from PC Richard & their extended warranty in July 2004. Unless someone can tell me how to determine hours of useage, I can't tell you with any accuracy. I've had the set for 26 months.

Regards....JL

To view bulb hours..
Menu 2470
Home to exit

To view bulb hours..
Menu 2470
Home to exit

Thanks for the info. There is no heading for hours, but I assume the number of hours is in the lower left of the screen. It was "6227" before I reset it. The next column reads "18" which I assume is the # of hours since the reset. Please correct me if I am mistaken.

Regards....JL

I don't know if I saw it on this thread but a few months back I was surfing this forum and saw a post on how to DIY clean the mirror assembly on the WD52525. Can anyone re-post this procedure so I can see if I the guts/ability to do this? :o

I don't know if I saw it on this thread but a few months back I was surfing this forum and saw a post on how to DIY clean the mirror assembly on the WD52525. Can anyone re-post this procedure so I can see if I the guts/ability to do this? :o

Isn't that what was posted about 8 posts up.

I wouldn't wait too long after the yellow light comes on to buy a new lamp. Mine turned yellow a month ago. I ordered a new lamp 2 weeks ago. It arrived last Friday. On Sunday the bulb blew!

Yes, I consider myself to be very lucky. :)

It will take about a week to get a new bulb. Hope it doesn't happen just before the Super Bowl. ;)

Thanks Brahda... I have already picked one up via fleabay and I still havne't installed it yet.. that stoopid light is still on for 2 months.. and the stoopid bulb hasn't blown out yet..

but I do notice the that picture is taking longer and longer to come up on the screen. .. no rush for me.. I can wait..


Is there a good step by step guide to rmoving the protective screen? I can't seem to get it out and I've followed the manual instructions and even had friends try.

fsquid, yeah.. just follow the instructions in the manual..
on the 62825, I just took an old credit card slip it between the frame and the screen... Hand to use some finger muscles to pry it .. there is 3 spots on each side that has those clips. Once you get all 6 off, bend it so the top comes out, then lift out from the bottom..

My Best Buy extended warranty covered it, too. But they gave me 2 options. First was to send someone out to diagnose. Second option was to just get a new lamp since the TV was telling me that the lamp was going to blow.

I went with option 2. I did not have a tech come to replace the lamp.

Just tell your warranty representative that you don't want to be without a TV for a week when the lamp finally does blow.

Me personally, I don't think my house can't live without Tv for 1 or 2 weeks.. So we just keep an extra bulb at the house.. just incase.. I don't think you can go wrong with an extra bulb..

I don't know if I saw it on this thread but a few months back I was surfing this forum and saw a post on how to DIY clean the mirror assembly on the WD52525. Can anyone re-post this procedure so I can see if I the guts/ability to do this? :o

It's easy.. Just follow this post by BearGator56
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7166361&&#post7166361
I knew I should of taken some pictures to post.. Hahahah...


Thanks again BearGator56 !!!! Im going to clean my mirrors every 6 months now..

Funny... I haven't been back here in a while, and I see my name in the last post. Been wanting to see what the latest is on these tv's. Hey, I learned how to check my hours on my lamp! I can't take all the credit for the cleaning procedure. I read it on here in another post, but just added my take on it. No dust balls or blotches for me since I last cleaned it (and duct taped the foam back in place) several months ago.

I just checked my hourmeter, and I'm only at 1556 hours. I've had this thing for 2 years now and watch it all the time! Seems low to me... Did I just read someone had over 6000 hours??

Did anyone still reading this ever update the software? I never got the card that they send out because I didn't really have issues. Did it do anything worthwhile?

My tv is the Mitsubishi WD-52525

I just connected my HD-DVR Box through the HDMI, but all the widescreen shows the ones with black bars on top and bottom it is shifted down, the top black bar is bigger than the bottom and the scroll bars on the sports and news channels the bottom part of the words gets cut off.

I have the composite cables connected to a VCR, I can do side by side and you can tell the HDMI picture is shifted down. I had the componant cables conected and didn't have a problem.

Is this a problem with the box? I havent connected anything with HDMI to the tv before. Also I have reset the tv and unplugged the box didnt help.
Just to make sure it is not possible for the HDMI cable to be the problem? It is a Phillips, and I have had problems with that brand on other things.

I got the tv in 2004, and I have never had any firmware updates should I get them? What exactly does add or fix?

Where can I find the other numbers if there are to press after menu. Like the test patterns tv/menu 2-4-5-7 and lamp hours tv/menu 2-4-7-0. It is not in my manual.

I would check to make sure that none of the zoom features are on for both the box and the tv. It just sounds to me like that's what it is.

My tv is the Mitsubishi WD-52525

I just connected my HD-DVR Box through the HDMI, but all the widescreen shows the ones with black bars on top and bottom it is shifted down, the top black bar is bigger than the bottom and the scroll bars on the sports and news channels the bottom part of the words gets cut off.

Where can I find the other numbers if there are to press after menu. Like the test patterns tv/menu 2-4-5-7 and lamp hours tv/menu 2-4-7-0. It is not in my manual.
Just enter the service mode and press video or audio button until you access VPOS and then adjust accordingly.

I would check to make sure that none of the zoom features are on for both the box and the tv. It just sounds to me like that's what it is.

None of the zoom features are on and I don't have any other tv's that accept HDMI to figure out if its the box.


Just enter the service mode and press video or audio button until you access VPOS and then adjust accordingly.

I don't know how to enter the service mode.

Hi. I have a question regarding the channel guide. Why is it one (1) hour ahead of my local time? Because of this, all the program info displayed is for a program scheduled one hour later. Is there a way to set the ChannelView function to the correct time? If it helps, I have Time Warner Cable through a CC.

TIA....JL

for the mirror cleaning procedure? I have the 52525 and would like to clean the mirror, but I couldn't locate all the screws referenced in your posted procedure. I don't want to screw things up (no pun intended). I just had the lamp replaced for free under my extended warranty and would like to clean the mirror to bring the set back up to "like new" condition.

TIA....JL

for the mirror cleaning procedure? I have the 52525 and would like to clean the mirror, but I couldn't locate all the screws referenced in your posted procedure. I don't want to screw things up (no pun intended). I just had the lamp replaced for free under my extended warranty and would like to clean the mirror to bring the set back up to "like new" condition.

TIA....JL

I didn't take any pictures... Which screws are you having trouble locating? If I recall correctly, I had trouble finding the ones around the control panel.

I do have the larger 62" set. Not sure if that makes any difference. I am assuming they are pretty much the same design.

I'm having a strange problem that I haven't been able to find an answer for. I am always looking to this thread and forum for advice so maybe my problem will help someone else know how to fix it.

I have the 52525 model. After 4000 hours, the yellow lamp light came on and I got the message about the lamp exceeding expected life, get a new lamp. I have a 2 lamp warranty so I called to get a new lamp. The guy finally came(after I waited for over 3 weeks)and brought the lamp. Installed it and when he turned it on, the yellow light remained on. He answered Yes to the tv's question of "Did you replace the lamp?"

I asked him why the yellow light was still on, so he reset the tv, by pressing the reset button on the front panel. When the yellow light was still on, he said, oh well, it'll take awhile to recognize the new lamp. Sounded weird but he left.

When I turned on the tv again later that night, I got the message again, asking if I had replaced the lamp. I checked with Menu 2470 to see if it had been reset but it didn't appear to have been so I reset it by saying Yes, I replaced it.

Yellow light is still on, although I do notice the new lamp has made a difference. Now I just turned on the tv and got the message, Lamp has exceeded expected life, replace.

Any ideas why answering Yes to the new lamp replacement doesn't make the tv recognize I have put in a new lamp?

Here are the #'s I get when I check Menu 2470:

04341 04305 00000 00000 00000

I have only had 1 lamp replaced. I did search the thread and forum but I couldn't find more info about this specific problem.

Thanks for any help you can give me,
You've all helped me solve an issue or 2 in the past. :)

I'm having a strange problem that I haven't been able to find an answer for. I am always looking to this thread and forum for advice so maybe my problem will help someone else know how to fix it.

I have the 52525 model. After 4000 hours, the yellow lamp light came on and I got the message about the lamp exceeding expected life, get a new lamp. I have a 2 lamp warranty so I called to get a new lamp. The guy finally came(after I waited for over 3 weeks)and brought the lamp. Installed it and when he turned it on, the yellow light remained on. He answered Yes to the tv's question of "Did you replace the lamp?"

I asked him why the yellow light was still on, so he reset the tv, by pressing the reset button on the front panel. When the yellow light was still on, he said, oh well, it'll take awhile to recognize the new lamp. Sounded weird but he left.

When I turned on the tv again later that night, I got the message again, asking if I had replaced the lamp. I checked with Menu 2470 to see if it had been reset but it didn't appear to have been so I reset it by saying Yes, I replaced it.

Yellow light is still on, although I do notice the new lamp has made a difference. Now I just turned on the tv and got the message, Lamp has exceeded expected life, replace.

Any ideas why answering Yes to the new lamp replacement doesn't make the tv recognize I have put in a new lamp?

Here are the #'s I get when I check Menu 2470:

04341 04305 00000 00000 00000

I have only had 1 lamp replaced. I did search the thread and forum but I couldn't find more info about this specific problem.

Thanks for any help you can give me,
You've all helped me solve an issue or 2 in the past. :)

Did you try unplugging the TV for a few minutes and plugging it back in?

Did you try unplugging the TV for a few minutes and plugging it back in?

I did that to get the "Did you replace the lamp?" message. Then instead of pressing the buttons on the front panel of the TV, as the 'repairman' did, I pressed Enter on the remote and that immediately made the yellow light go off and when I checked again for lamp hours, it was reset for the new lamp.

Don't know if the solution can help anyone else at some point but for some reason, pressing the Enter on the tv wasn't the same as pressing Enter on the remote.

Thanks for the advice. :)

About the lamps... I am about to replace mine going on 4,000 hours. Check out my thread below to compare some optins for suppliers and cost/options.

Basically, you can pay over $200 and get the drop in replacement from Mist-tv.com Or you can spend under $200 and just swap a new bulb into your existing cage. You can save $50. I'll post back if the experience goes horribly wrong. ;)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9421927#post9421927

Is there a guide anywhere on the net to take the shield off. I can't get it off and my buddy tried also with no luck. I don't want to break the fecker.

Shield Removal

Get two credit cards... and two people.

Step 1. Slide the first credit card straight into the small space between the outside of the TV and the shield... about a foot below the top of the screen. Slide the card down until you hit a clip in the middle of the screen... this clip is your target for step 2.

Step 2. Take the second credit card and push it into the space but this time insert it on the clip that you found the top of in step 1, you'll have to press a bit to get it by the clip. This will release the clip.

Step 3. Now use the first credit card to leverage the shield away from the TV.

Repeat this for the clips located at the bottom and top of the sheild on both sides. Then bow the center of the screen out and pull the bottom out of it's retaining clip.

You don't have to force it once the clips release.

gotcha, first time I've seen that explanation and I've totally been doing it wrong!

Just calibrated my TV using DVE. Thought I would share mine to BUMP this thread and potentially help someone out.

These settings were calibrated using a pretty basic Sony Progressive Scan DVD Player running component cables directly to the TV. To some of you they will look like crap, but to those of you who are willing to try them out...

Tint--------39
Color-------28
Sharpness--20
Brightness--47
Contrast----34
Defining Edge---On
Video Noise-----Standard
Color Temp------Low

Magenta--30
Red-------44
Yellow-----39
Green-----42
Cyan------38
Blue-------30


Don't hesitate to tell me if the settings look horrible. I welcome all input.

I am a bit behind with calabration. I just used the THX optimizer on the POTC DVD. It only really helped for contrast and brightness I dont have the glasses. Every thing was set at what the TV came with out of the Box 31 on everything except I have the contrast up at 63 (max) I know sounds bad but going through the optimizer you can see all four distinct shades of white in the eight boxes, the room was completely dark.
I have the color temp High low has a slight red tint on whites and medium has a slight green high is probably slightly blue but I think it looks better.
The brighteness I changed to 38, I didn't get all 10 boxes only the 7 it said its most likely the DVD player. Can anyone tell me if its the TV WD-52525?
On the Aspect Ratio part the picture is not centered its too far left and its slightly titlted left is lower than right. Can I fix these?

I would also like to know how to calibrate my Cable box, any time I raise the brightness the black bars on non HD stuff get to light so I guess the brightness is correct.

When connecting my computer to the PC input you can tell there is an overscan. I know its on all other inputs as well I dont mind seeing black bars even slight ones that you should have on 1.85:1. In the PC it cuts off the whole bottom tool bar and almost all the first row of Icons, I don't like to use the reduce option makes thing hard to read. Is there a way to get rid of overscan?

I have never gotten any of the firmware updates, Should I?

I was watching the tv today, and it started to "flicker" like how an old VHS tape would lose it's tracking. Then, the screen went blue. I thought it was the DirecTV box at first, so I reset it a couple of times. The screen would stay blue like it wasn't getting a signal, but had a weird flickering in the middle of the screen-but very light.

I checked the HDMI connection, and it hadn't fell out or anything. I tried another source, my XBox360. The same thing happened. Blue screen.

The next thing I did was hit the tv reset button. It cycled through, but now there is a bigger flickering in the center of the screen. The lamp is fairly new, but I think this is something different.

Has anyone had this happen to them?

Hi Bear. My WD52525 just did the same thing as yours- blue screen of death with white flickering in the middle. I assumed it was the lamp (been getting the warning message for months now) so I just ordered a new one.

Did you figure out the problem?

wallycolvin or beargator56

What was the resolution to your problem?

This just happened to me today. Blue screen then white flashing in the middle of the screen. I happened to have a new lamp so I replaced it. No help.

I still have the solid red lamp light illuminated on the front of the TV.

Anyone know what's wrong?

Color Wheel Engine. ~$1300 to fix. I'm contemplating just trashing it and buying a friggin Sony or something... 3 Years old and needs $1300 in repairs is just rediculous. I have a 12 year old Sony XBR that still looks as new as the day I bought it.

Color Wheel Engine. ~$1300 to fix. I'm contemplating just trashing it and buying a friggin Sony or something... 3 Years old and needs $1300 in repairs is just rediculous. I have a 12 year old Sony XBR that still looks as new as the day I bought it.

dont worry...your new sony wont last nearly as long as your old one. All CE companies have switched modes and 5 years is considered the expected ranged of life.

How many hours have you had your tv on before this blue screen started?

Mine is somewhere around 14600 hours.

Recently mine has started to reset itself while it is off and everytime you turn it back on it asks if I changed the lamp. It did this about 4 months ago for a few weeks and stopped but its started again over a week ago.

I recently had my wd52525 repaired. new lamp, new board chassis, & light engine (under warranty thankfully)
Now I just noticed that the screen is off like when I see a news ticker the left side is higher than the right.
I have had this tv for 3 years I never had this issue till now.
I am thinking since pretty much the guts of my tv was replaced that they did not properly set it up.
How can I fix this problem?
i have read one thing that said to adjust the screws on the light engine and another thay said to use the service menu which is it this is a dlp tv
Thanks

Got problems to report as well. My WD 62525 (goin on 3 years) lamp burned out at around 13000 hours. I got a replacement lamp, put it in. Hit power... the green light goes on... then light goes to solid red two minutes later and lamp never powers on and there is no sign of light. I have tried resetting, tightening screws and even a another new bulb.
THANK GOD I have a 5 year plan. the bad part is that its from Tweeter who just filed for chapter 11 and I have been trying to get a tech out for 2 weeks!! DO NOT EVER BUY YOUR TV FROM TWEETER ANYMORE, especially if its the one in Baileys Crossroads Virginia, the employees there are now absolutely incompetent and even the manager hasn't been able to expedite my problem, 14 days and counting. I ended up going to Magnolia at BB to buy my new 46"Samsung LED Powered LCD which is working great in my room by the way!!! And thats what I will be playing Halo 3 on tonight!

Similar issue. Had lamp replaced for the first time a week ago (under extended warranty). Then two days ago, went to turn on TV and lamp light turned to solid red and no picture.
Seems to me to be quite a coincidence that my TV is fine for 3 years, then one week after replacing the bulb, it's dead. :rolleyes:

Got problems to report as well. My WD 62525 (goin on 3 years) lamp burned out at around 13000 hours. I got a replacement lamp, put it in. Hit power... the green light goes on... then light goes to solid red two minutes later and lamp never powers on and there is no sign of light. I have tried resetting, tightening screws and even a another new bulb.
THANK GOD I have a 5 year plan. the bad part is that its from Tweeter who just filed for chapter 11 and I have been trying to get a tech out for 2 weeks!! DO NOT EVER BUY YOUR TV FROM TWEETER ANYMORE, especially if its the one in Baileys Crossroads Virginia, the employees there are now absolutely incompetent and even the manager hasn't been able to expedite my problem, 14 days and counting. I ended up going to Magnolia at BB to buy my new 46"Samsung LED Powered LCD which is working great in my room by the way!!! And thats what I will be playing Halo 3 on tonight!

Following up... I've got a tech headed my way tomorrow from Tweeter (allegedly) and I will update you folks on the verdict.

Im hoping I've just missed some easy setup thing with the bulb replacement (even though I swear I've tried everything)

The good news is if the problem is severe enough in $ amount I can justify a new tv for sure and apply this purchase price ($4G+) to a newer LCD (Samsung 1080p?) perhaps with a much longer bulb life (40,000 hours+ now I hear!)

Again, thank god I had the service plan or I would be flushing $4300 down the toilet right now...

Similar issue. Had lamp replaced for the first time a week ago (under extended warranty). Then two days ago, went to turn on TV and lamp light turned to solid red and no picture.
Seems to me to be quite a coincidence that my TV is fine for 3 years, then one week after replacing the bulb, it's dead. :rolleyes:

There's been related discussion about this on the xx525 thread. To rephrase:

If replacing the bulb fails to remove the red lamp light error, then it's likely a hardware issue. The most common cause is that people sometimes accidentally push the bulb connector out of socket because they try to force the new bulb housing into place when its not aligned properly. This can be fixed if the connector is accessed from the back of the TV.

If the bulb housing connector is ok, the next troubleshooting steps are a little more involved. You'll first need the service manual, which can be downloaded at:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OMFZ8E7B

Once you get the TV opened, check all of the power supply inputs to the ballast card. If any of them are incorrect, it's likely a power supply issue (several of us had issues with swollen capacitors that can be readily replaced -- see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&pp=30&page=147). If the voltage are ok, then it's likely either the ballast card or the light engine. You'll need to monitor the control lines between the two to differentiate where the problem lies. The steps below will help you with that process:

1. There's there connector labeled "J14" near the middle of the back of the TV. You'll need to observe pins #5 and #6 (LAMPLITZ and LAMPEN) while you start up your TV.

2. When you start the TV, if LAMPEN goes to 5V & remains there but LAMPLITZ floats (between 0 and 5V), then it's likely a bad ballast board.

3. If LAMPEN goes to 5V, then goes to 0V after 5 seconds but LAMPLITZ stays high, then it's likely a bad ballast board. (LAMPLITZ may briefly go low if the initial lighting of the lamp is successful but will return to high once it fails)

4. Another other behaviors with LAMPEN & LAMPLITZ are likely indicators of a bad light engine.

Of course, if you go the do-it-yourself route, be extremely careful to ensure the TV is not powered while you're messing with it.

Similar issue. Had lamp replaced for the first time a week ago (under extended warranty). Then two days ago, went to turn on TV and lamp light turned to solid red and no picture.
Seems to me to be quite a coincidence that my TV is fine for 3 years, then one week after replacing the bulb, it's dead. :rolleyes:

Can anyone comment on what's happened if they've had a light engine or similarly expense part require replacement under an extended warranty (I have a GE service plan thru HH Gregg) - such as are they going thru with the repairs or offering a similar TV as a replacement, etc.?

I realize it depends on the service plan and retailer, but I have to think with parts and labor, there must be instances where they're better off just giving you a new TV.

On a side note, my plan provides for a loaner when the set is sent in, but apparently since I've moved to Colorado from Indy where I bought the TV, HH Gregg told GE Service that my request was "denied".
I'll be speaking to HH Gregg directly about that after the weekend.

It has been a while since I posted about my flickering screen of death. I bought my tv from Sound Advice, which is owned by Tweeter. It took them 2 months to finally fix the problem.

The tech came out 3 separate times. The first time was the inspection in which he told us the part had to be ordered. The second time he came with the part-a light engine. It was defective, so he had to order another. The third time he came out, the tv was fixed, but he said I needed a new ballast or something and would order it. I haven't heard from him since. Not to mention, the cleaning job he gave it was awful. Still has dust blotches all over, and actually appears worse than before he cleaned it.

The entire time, I kept track of every time I called the service center. Here's the list as I had it up to the point the tech came out:

6/19/7:
Repair tech came out to inspect TV. Stated that it needs a new light engine, and it would take about 2 weeks for it to come in. Two weeks would be 7/3/7. I gave it one more week, and called the Tweeter Repair Center:

7/9/7:
Called and spoke to Megan at Tweeter. She stated that they are waiting on the warranty company to authorize repair. Said she would e-mail her supervisor and get back to me.

7/10/7:
Called Tweeter @ 1535 (call picked up @ 1545). Spoke to Megan again. She said that after she e-mailed her supervisor, that they had to send in a statement to the warranty company. This was because the repair would be over $500. At this time, they are still waiting on response from the warranty company.

7/20/07:
Left voicemail @ 0745. Service Department was not open yet.

7/20/07:
Amy returned call from Tweeter @ 0830. She said they are waiting on the part, and the ETA is 7/31/07. They will call when the part arrives to schedule an appointment.

8/2/07:
Called Tweeter @ 1548. Appointment was set up for the 8/16/07, and was also placed on the “cancellation list” in case an earlier time slot opens up.

8/14/07:
Called Tweeter @ 1445 because no one has called to confirm/set-up the appointement for 8/16. Spoke to Joanne. She contacted the tech, who said he would be here between 10-12.

8/16/07:
Repairman came, but had defective part. Said he would have to wait on a new one, but would be right out as soon as it came in

8/24/07:
Called Tweeter @ 1547. Spoke to Megan. She told me the part is in, and then said the next available appointment is 9/7. She also attempted to call the tech, who did not answer.
__________________________________________________________

All I can say is that I'm glad I got the 5 year warranty. I just thought about the new technology and the fact that there is a spinning part (color wheel). Well worth it, or this repair would have cost me at least $900. I kept hoping something else would break, because the tech told me it was almost at the point of getting a new set. If I could have figured out a way to short the thing out without it looking obvious, I would have.

Since I bought the tv at Sound Advice, I don't know what it's like to deal with Tweeter other than this repair deal. I've bought almost all my stuff at S.A., and they're always treated me well. Moving to the ATL area from FL forced me to deal with the Tweeter folks. Not sure how much quicker anything would be resolved one way or the other.

Anyways... If I knew then what I know now, I would not have bought a DLP at the time. The chances of this tv lasting as long as my old Mitsu CRT projection are pretty slim. The dust blotches that have to be cleaned out every 4-6 months. The power drain from the fans staying on 24/7 is also not something I prefer. The picture is still great, though. But for how long?

Anyone else sick at the thought of what they paid for this set? lol $4000 here, in Sept. '04. I see those beautiful 1080p flat screen LCDs for half the price and could kick myself.

Yes I feel your pain. Once the product warranty runs out with Tweeter in 2 years, this thing is as good as TRASH as far as im concerned. I just bought a 46" 1080p Samsung LED powered LCD with a 500,000:1 contrast ratio (for the bedroom) and the picture is millions of times better to me. Not to mention its only 3 or 4 inches thick.

ANYWAYS, mine too had been having problems. Thank god I found someone at Tweeter Rapid response who is helping me because the managers were completely useless.

Tech came out, ran a battery of tests and told me the chasis needs to be replaced. Some sort of "power issue" This will be done on October 8. I will let you know of my "progress"

My 3.2 year old 52525 went out Sunday morning. I couldn't get any video on the CC, STB or DVD inputs and the OTA video looked HORRIBLE. After about 30 minutes the set powered itself off and there was a steady red lamp aglow on the front panel. Hopefully the probelm is just a burnt out lamp. Thankfully I have a five year extended warranty on the set and it covers the lamp. This is my second lamp replacement so the warranty has paid for itself. The warranty expires in July 2009 so I am in good shape.

I had to go out and buy a small HDTV because I didn't have any other TV set in the house. One never konws how long it will take to repair the Mits.

Regards....JL

My 3.2 year old 52525 went out Sunday morning. I couldn't get any video on the CC, STB or DVD inputs and the OTA video looked HORRIBLE. After about 30 minutes the set powered itself off and there was a steady red lamp aglow on the front panel. Hopefully the probelm is just a burnt out lamp. Thankfully I have a five year extended warranty on the set and it covers the lamp. This is my second lamp replacement so the warranty has paid for itself. The warranty expires in July 2009 so I am in good shape.

Good thing you have the extended warranty. Perhaps an issue with your Format board? I just replaced 4 swollen capacitors on mine. I wonder if some TV shops are going to be losing money with the EW's sold on these sets.

My 3.2 year old 52525 went out Sunday morning. I couldn't get any video on the CC, STB or DVD inputs and the OTA video looked HORRIBLE. After about 30 minutes the set powered itself off and there was a steady red lamp aglow on the front panel. Regards....JL

Same symptoms, same age, same model. Tech out Friday, now waiting for power supply parts to come in.

Thanks for your info. I'm hoping it is a bad lamp, but if it is something more, than so be it. The EW will cover whatever needs to get fixed.

Regards....JL

According to Tweeter, Mits cant ship out my part for the 62525 (whole new chassis because of power issue) until October 29!!!!! Sooooo.... I pleaded my case and got them to loan me a 52631. So I finally now have tv again in my living room. When, and IF I ever get my 62" working again I am tempted just to sell it and go buy a new TV after reading all these posts as of late.

It seems like after 3 years, they all turn into crap!! What gives??!!

According to Tweeter, Mits cant ship out my part for the 62525 (whole new chassis because of power issue) until October 29!!!!! Sooooo.... I pleaded my case and got them to loan me a 52631. So I finally now have tv again in my living room. When, and IF I ever get my 62" working again I am tempted just to sell it and go buy a new TV after reading all these posts as of late.

It seems like after 3 years, they all turn into crap!! What gives??!!
I'm curious how you go about selling a TV like this (Craigslist?) and what someone would pay. I'd love to unload mine and get something else - I can get more TV for have the price of what I paid for my 62525.

So after reading a few hundred posts on this forum, I decided to forgo spending $1300 on a new light engine and open up my set. The pics below show what I found. Think I have bad capacitors?

I've ordered replacements (at $0.75 each) for the two obvious failed ones and will let you know after I install them if this makes the difference. I'm also considering replacing the 4 others that show signs of slight deformation at the top, though I had trouble finding exact replacements for those on mouser.com.

Those of you with warrantees, make sure your repair tech pulls the cover off the power circuit board to check these caps before tearing into your light engine... it's a much easier fix.

Good Luck!

I've ordered replacements (at $0.75 each) for the two obvious failed ones and will let you know after I install them if this makes the difference. I'm also considering replacing the 4 others that show signs of slight deformation at the top, though I had trouble finding exact replacements for those on mouser.com.

You should definitely replace all 6 caps. On my TV, I had the two 3300 uF's swell & my fix was successful. I also replaced 4 swollen 1000 uf caps on my FMT board that looked like your 1000 uF caps. Upon measuring them, they averaged ~67% loss in capacitance.

On a different thread, we have a guy in the same position as you (2 + 4 swollen on the Power board). In his case, there appears to be a shorted part near the right 4 caps that caused the FS9A6 fuse to blow. Seems like a good chance those two effects are related, so definitely replace the other 4 caps before it's too late.

Will do. You have a part number of the 1000uf ones you replaced?

Thanks!

Will do. You have a part number of the 1000uf ones you replaced?

I used Radio Shack parts for the 1000 uF FMT replacements. They were a bit larger than the originals & that actually caused me some problems in the reassembly. However, if I remember the power board correctly, I think you have some extra head space (I think there's more wiggle room for the 1000 uF's as compared to the more bulky 3300 uF's on the left side).