Hey guys need some major help.
I have mit wd 62725 DLP. It was hooked up to cable just yesterday via the monolink HDMI port. I added surround sound yesterday and am sending all vedio from Tos A30 and Cable to AVR (onyko tx-sr876) to TV.

No I cant get any video!!! WTF.

Need help and I dont know how to perfrom a master reset and no I have no tv to veiw.

JUST FYI. I did check to see if the AVR was bad by hooking it up to another TV >>> Worked fine. I also checked to see if the Mit went bad during install. I hooked a set of vedio cables up and I got vedio from the avr on screen but I can get vedio from the avr and sources becuase it does not backwards convert HDMI sources to Compont.

HELP PLEASE:(

Does anyone know what's causing this flashing horizontal lines? It's red,blue,purple,white lines. Which board should I examine? DM, FMT? It's very visible on a dark scene when watching dvd with an hdmi hookup. It's visible also on an HD channel when watching cable or over the air antenna. Thanks for any info.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/mdevera211/DSC01937.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/mdevera211/DSC01936.jpg

Note: I own a WD-62525 and the bright spot is from my camera's flash.

I have a 52525 that I purchased nearly 5 years ago. As usual my the TV stops working when I am not home so I am not 100% sure exactly what happened, but I am 99% sure no one was messing with my reciever or other component settings.

Problem 1: The screen was full of green wavey lines and in the 4:3 section of the screen.
Problem 2: After messing around with several inputs and resetting it once the screen was completely full of green wavey lines.
Problem 3: After pressing reset a few more times, unplugging for 5 mintues, the picture won't come on and the red lamp light comes on and stays on.

Solutions?? I have been sifting through this and other posts and don't see anything that matches this exactly. My bulb is due for a change and I know a repair rep is going to tell me to replace the bulb, but it looks to me like I have a "green/tilt" problem and then my bulb went out? I am gong to have to dig up old papers but I think I might have another month on my warranty?

Thoughts?

HMMMMM, no replys yet, likely everyone has purchased a new TV given this is a dinasour at 4 years old.

After talking to people that were watching the TV when it started acting up let me describe the problem again since I have tried a few more things and the story has changed.

1. Person was watching the TV and the picture started to roll. It continued rolling faster and faster but the material was still somewhat viewable.
2. It eventually got so bad it turned into a full screen of green wavey lines.
3. After turning off and on, resetting several times and unplugging entriely a couple of time I got not picutre at all and the red light came on indicating I need a new bulb.
4. I turned it on again this morning and I was back to green wavey lines.
5. I can still see the net command screens, but I am seeing green lines popping through the display.

I am assuming this is related to my TV and not my Onkyo receiver given I have tried bypassing it and I have nothing wiring the cable directly to the tv.

Thoughts?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15887552#post15887552

Much more activity.

OK I've read all the post. My tv has the red light issue, Service tech wanted to charge $400.00 for the ballast and $400.00 for labor, $800.00 in all to fix this tv, just to see what was wrong with it. Thank you all for your help. I will reply again once I replace the capacitors..

Robert

Changeing the 3300uF 10V capacitors worked. Thanks once again for all your help.

Robert.

Changeing the 3300uF 10V capacitors worked. Thanks once again for all your help. Robert.

glad you got it working. pray it last a little while.........if you have further issues which is very likely, just check the owners thread at

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=214

if it goes out again get it diagnosed with the well known capacitor failure issues and then contact Mits and hopefully they will pay/perform the complete chassis rebuild. Even with a complete chassis rebuild there's no guarantee how much further use these WD-52/62x25 will provide owners but it's the best chance to get them to last a little longer.

HMMMMM, no replys yet, likely everyone has purchased a new TV given this is a dinasour at 4 years old.

After talking to people that were watching the TV when it started acting up let me describe the problem again since I have tried a few more things and the story has changed.

1. Person was watching the TV and the picture started to roll. It continued rolling faster and faster but the material was still somewhat viewable.
2. It eventually got so bad it turned into a full screen of green wavey lines.
3. After turning off and on, resetting several times and unplugging entriely a couple of time I got not picutre at all and the red light came on indicating I need a new bulb.
4. I turned it on again this morning and I was back to green wavey lines.
5. I can still see the net command screens, but I am seeing green lines popping through the display.

I am assuming this is related to my TV and not my Onkyo receiver given I have tried bypassing it and I have nothing wiring the cable directly to the tv.

Thoughts?

Sounds like bad capacitors. I remember the green funky lines before mine went out...

Here's an old 2003 article (and there are many more) about a reliability issue with electrolytic caps a few years ago.

Caps and switches are probably the most unreliable electronic components in consumer products.

I had an oven with a display that went dim right after the warranty. Googled the solution - bad electrolytic cap circa 2004. Twelve cents later, it was fixed!!

http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30328/article.html

Anyone still here?

My 5 year old Mits 52525 starting getting a fast flashing green Timer light. Resets don't work. Unplugging doesn't work. The Timer button just continues to blink green and it never powers on.

I've been through the capacitor problem. I still have 1.5 months on the extended warranty / service plan.

Of course this occurred on Friday night before Memorial Day weekend. I have a tech coming on Wednesday but was wondering if anyone has been through this specific fault?

Anyone still here?

My 5 year old Mits 52525 starting getting a fast flashing green Timer light. Resets don't work. Unplugging doesn't work. The Timer button just continues to blink green and it never powers on.

I've been through the capacitor problem. I still have 1.5 months on the extended warranty / service plan.

Of course this occurred on Friday night before Memorial Day weekend. I have a tech coming on Wednesday but was wondering if anyone has been through this specific fault?
here is the 52/62x25 owners thread.......
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=219

You say you have been through the cap problems??? do you mean you have read up about them or actually had cap problems already and your set has been repaired before??

BGLOD = Blinking Green Light Of Death..... many 52/62x25 owners have had this in some form or other.

these sets have HUGE FAILURE rates with the caps/electrical chassis and it causes many many different and varying issues. Since your still covered under an ext warranty they will decide how to fix it.

It probably needs an electrical chassis. Mits has no more chassis to sell as parts, so your ext warranty company may decide if your very lucky to replace your set with a new similar model like the 60737 since they cannot gets parts for it.

IF it is not under ext warranty then you could have a mits authorized service center diagnosis it and if it needed a chassis rebuild then Mits would pay for the parts and have the chassis shipped to the national mits service center for a complete chassis rebuild. But you would pay for the service center diagnosis/repair labor which probably would be $200-400. Once repaired then mits would give you a one year warranty where if it happened again they would give you a replacement set.

some service techs will want to replace only a small number of caps to get it working asap. but that is just a band aid job and your set almost certainly will fail again soon. mits replaces over 100 peices when they do a chassis rebuild and yes they still have a good chance of failing in the near future due to the cheap parts used and the poor design/engineering of these Mits set. Hopefully the tech coming out will not want to do the repair and knows to ship it off to Mits, or you could ask your ext warranty company to replace the set due to lack of parts available to repair it properly.

it may take some time but if you read through the owners thread you will see several avsers who had gotten replacement sets through their ext warranty companys and also several recently directly through mits when they had caps/chassis issues even though these sets are 4+ years old.

There is a California Consumer Protection law that requires Mitsubishi to have functional replacement parts for these sets for 7 years. These sets have had so many failures that mits is out of the chassis parts to sell. So that is why they will offer to cover a complete chassis rebuild plus give you a 1 year warranty where they state they will provide a replacement set if you have further troubles.

here is the 52/62x25 owners thread.......
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=219

You say you have been through the cap problems??? do you mean you have read up about them or actually had cap problems already and your set has been repaired before??

BGLOD = Blinking Green Light Of Death..... many 52/62x25 owners have had this in some form or other.


Thanks for the reply and reference to the other thread. Yes, to be more clear, I did have the cap problem previously and had it repaired about 1.5 years ago. When I had the cap problem, my symptoms were slightly different - a different light was blinking (not the timer light). I have the tech coming out again on Wednesday so we'll see what happens.

Thanks again.

I too just fell victim to the "BGLOD = Blinking Green Light Of Death". I have done some of the capacitor fix on the main power supply board/chassis. I just replaced the ones that where noticably bulging or cracking/oozing. About 4 or 5 total.

My BGLOD first happened a month ago with the house power went out long enough for the UPS to run to empty, so the set shut off. Getting it back on-on and past the BGLOD took several hours of resets. I lost Netcommand as a result. A week or so later I re-setup net command... bad idea. After setting it up the TV basically does a full reset and I was back to the BGLOD. After several days I got the set to come back on. Again, just pressing reset and pull the power plug out several times. 2 months later, I go to change the Device to watch a DVD and wammo! the TV resets. but this time, not lucky resets has saved me.


so I took the set apart.

The Main power supply chassis/board has correct voltages for all test point except the TP3.3V, TP5V, TP12V
All of these read zero.

So I am off to search for a likely area to look for problems. I do have a Capacitor Wizard and may start probing aimlessly in that area of the board, but since all of these low voltages are at zero, I'm thinking a problem is elsewhere.

If anyone can help with a link, I'd appreaciate it. Until then, I'll be reading this thread and the other owner's thread.

Mitsubishi - I hope you go bankrupt. :mad:

I have removed the plastic and metal plates from the back of my WD 62525 in my attempt to get to the power board but have become stuck. I am having trouble removing the metal cover that is on top of and on the side of the power board. I have attached pictures to show the part that I am talking about.

Thanks for your help!

I have removed the plastic and metal plates from the back of my WD 62525 in my attempt to get to the power board but have become stuck. I am having trouble removing the metal cover that is on top of and on the side of the power board. I have attached pictures to show the part that I am talking about.

Thanks for your help!

I am no expert, but I think you need to remove the entire electrical chassis to gain access to the power board. It looks like you haven't pulled the chassis out of the TV in the first photo.

I think there is a chassis service manual somewhere in these forums.

I will look for the link.


EDIT: Here is a link to a post containing the download link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13013224&postcount=2661

One other thing...I haven't done this myself, but I watched someone replace the power board on my TV. Keep in mind that the electrical chassis does provide some structural support to the upper part of the TV, and the weight of the structure above can make it difficult to pull the chassis free of the TV. Actually, the problem is more obvious when you go to put the chassis back in the TV, since the top of the TV will droop down and it will seem like the chassis doesn't fit properly. The repair guys had to push on the back of the TV (near the top) to flex it, and allow the chassis to seat back in place.

Good luck.

Thanks Spiff! If you don't mind could you tell me how much it cost you to have a repair man replace the power board for you? I'm trying to decide if that might be the better option at this point.

Thanks Spiff! If you don't mind could you tell me how much it cost you to have a repair man replace the power board for you? I'm trying to decide if that might be the better option at this point.

if you have a mits authorized tech/service center diagnose it as bad capacitors/chassis then Mits will rebuild it completely replacing over 100 parts for free. then give you a 1 year warranty where if it happens again Mits will replace your set. you have to pay the labor of the Mits service tech/center and it cost ~$200-400. thats to pull the chassis, diagnosis it, send it to mits and get it back and reinstall it.

that may be a better option then just a power board because you probably will have other issues soon with various bad caps on other boards going out anyway.

Thanks Spiff! If you don't mind could you tell me how much it cost you to have a repair man replace the power board for you? I'm trying to decide if that might be the better option at this point.

I didn't pay for it - it was covered under extended warranty from Best Buy. Unfortunately, the warranty has since expired. Hopefully I don't have to deal with future cap failures (knock wood)...

Thank you all for your input and help. I was able to remove the Power board and desolder the old caps and solder the 6 new caps that I replaced onto the board. If anyone else is having similar problems, you can do fix your tv yourself! I had no prior knowledge and was able to repair my tv for under $20. Thanks to everyone that provided their knowledge on this forum!

In 2008 I got the BGLOD (Blinking Green timer Light of Death). I replaced the Power (PWR) board capacitors and all was well.

8 months later, I get it again, search the forums, and find the answers I need!

I replaced the 4 electrolitic capacitors on the Format board because they displayed bulging. However, this did not allow my set to boot up. I emplemented the Power switch interupter for the Format board, which I read about on here. attached to this post is the picture of the particular wire you need to snip/intereupt by way of a switch (it is connector K1 of the PWR board). The image is from another forum member, but it never hurts to have the info out there again. I hid the toggle switch in the card-reader area, but not as neatly as the original idea creater did.


MUCH THANKS to you guys that put forth the effort to trouble shoot these sets and then sharing that information.

The slideshow by Tbully should get a Pulizter prize or somethin'. :D

My 62525 has been broken since Jan... I turned it off to go run some errands, came back home and it wont even power up.... I have had the caps repaired once already. I'm trying to decided if its worth repairing again or just buying a new set... I wondering if I should get a newer DLP, but after all these problems with this DLP should I gamble again??

My 62525 has been broken since Jan... I turned it off to go run some errands, came back home and it wont even power up.... I have had the caps repaired once already. I'm trying to decided if its worth repairing again or just buying a new set... I wondering if I should get a newer DLP, but after all these problems with this DLP should I gamble again??


I am anti-Mitsubishi whatever I get! I just got a new LCD. Cheaper than my 52525 when I bought it new and tons better at everything it does. Let's just hope it lasts longer...

Do the switch fix for the format board. VERY easy and I think it just might fix your set. After you pull out the board chassis assembly, you jsut remove one shield and there lies the wire that needs the switch inserted "in-line" with it. I just hid the switch in the front card reader area and it works like a champ. I may keep the TV, I may sell it. don't know yet.

Hi there. I have a 52525 and my 2 3300uF are swollen and I would like to replace. I have seen on this forum to order them from digi-key.com, but when I looked at aluminum capacitors--there were way too many options. I was wondering if someone knew a catalog number or which ones to get.

Help!

I have a Mits WD-62525 that would not turn on until I replaced 10 caps that appeared bad. Set now turns on and seams to operate fine but picture quality is very poor. Almost like a reverse or negative image. Lamp light is red and steady (?). No other lights (other than steady green power light when tv is on).

Help!

I have a Mits WD-62525 that would not turn on until I replaced 10 caps that appeared bad. Set now turns on and seams to operate fine but picture quality is very poor. Almost like a reverse or negative image. Lamp light is red and steady (?). No other lights (other than steady green power light when tv is on).

with the cheap caps mits used on these sets it is very normal to replace some major caps that are most problematic but still have many other cap in need of replacement due to their continueing state of degradation.

here is the owners thread. i would get it diagnosed and have Mits cover the cost of a chassis rebuild where they replace over 100 parts/caps on the boards. then give you a one year warranty where if it happens again they will replace your set. but you have to pay for labor cost usually $150-300.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=221

I just replaced my lamp because the other one went out. After replacing, I powered back up and clicked "enter" to tell the TV that I had replaced the lamp. However, the yellow light is still on and I keep geting the "order a replacement lamp" message when I power on each time. What am I doing wrong?

I've been having the darkness problem since 2004, I just found your forum i'm gonna give the swallen capt.s a shot and see if i can find any.

---------------
I've been messing with the Service Options in the menu (menu 5-7-5-7)
does anyone have the code to reset everything to default?
or could someone with the 62327 tv take a look at the Hex. numbers and list them for me? Thanks in advance - HHG

also where is the power board to replace the Caps is it on the left side by all the inputs?

Caps have NO damage, but i notice that the Lens has a white film on it. like a burned in image. is there a way to remove the lens.

for those of us who have no bad caps. I've noticed a film on the lens of the optical engine, i've always had a glare in the bottom of the tv as if a light was shining on it even more so in the dark. My guess is that the reflection was a misplaced mirror pointing. It glared on the screen and on the Lens itself, after a while it left a burned in image. I'm so tired of this tv, I think im going to list it for sale =p
seriously tho any advice or help would be great.

here's a thread about cleaning some of the lenses. not sure it it helps or is your exact problem.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792

We need some help with our Mitsubishi WD-52525. I read through a LOT of forums and found a LOT of the information very helpful!!! Although, we have replaced two 10V 3300Uf caps, 4 16v 10000uf caps, and 1 10v 1000uf cap the T.V. is not working now. Last night we put the T.V. back together after replacing those caps and after a series of blinking green timer lights the T.V. turned on and was working just fine. Than we tried to adjust the audio features and the T.V. shut itself off and we got the dreaded death light again. Now it won't turn back on at all! No matter how many times we unplug, reset, etc. Has anyone dealt with this or could anyone tell me what we should do from here?
Thank you,
Amber

We need some help with our Mitsubishi WD-52525. I read through a LOT of forums and found a LOT of the information very helpful!!! Although, we have replaced two 10V 3300Uf caps, 4 16v 10000uf caps, and 1 10v 1000uf cap the T.V. is not working now. Last night we put the T.V. back together after replacing those caps and after a series of blinking green timer lights the T.V. turned on and was working just fine. Than we tried to adjust the audio features and the T.V. shut itself off and we got the dreaded death light again. Now it won't turn back on at all! No matter how many times we unplug, reset, etc. Has anyone dealt with this or could anyone tell me what we should do from here?
Thank you,
Amber

read post 2776 .......just a few above your post for help/info.... or 2762/2768 ........

it's been posted by me and many others the same basic info many times......The Mits WD-52/62x25 series of dlp sets have many many many etc etc etc....capacitor/electrical chassis issues and replacing some of them is usually a quick fix and you will not fix it or you will be having more issues very soon.

Mits phone number is 1-800-332-2119 ext 8 should get you to the California headquarters.

Call them and they will tell you to get it diagnosed by an authorized mits repair shop/tech and then Mits will pay for the parts (you get a rebuilt electrical chassis installed) but you pay for the labor part to do it, usually $200-300 and then mits gives you a one year warranty on it.

hello all. tv is about 4.5 years old and my tv is incapable of producing any sound (either through the set speakers, or from any audio outs). forever, this wasn't an issue, as i just ran audio straight from each source to my receiver. however, i have recently became interested in OTA HD channels and with the antenna plumbed into the tv set, i'm unable to get any sound (as i'm unable to run the digital audio out of the tv to the receiver). does anyone know what part inside my tv is bad so I can seek a replacement? THANKS.

Luckily I got a 5 year extended waranttee on my 52725 5 years ago. We replaced it as our primary TV last spring with a Samsun 52" 120 mhz LCD. I then called the insurance company about the roling lines and got it taken in for service. About 3 weeks ago, with only days left on the waranttee, I went down tot he family room and saw the dreaded blinking power light. Called again and again the service shop sent out a tech. I unjplugges the set after the call. When the tech came and plugged it in, after the 70 sec reboot, the TV came back on and the tech thought there might not be a problem I had to pay for the service call, but the tech said I should keep an eye on it and if it happened again they would come and take the set. Couple of days later, it happened again. And again it rebboted and came on. I called and they said there had to be a problem, They came and got the set again and gave me back my cancled check. I live in the Rochester NY area. Late last week they called and said they had to ship the TV to a repair shop in NJ. It needed about 80 caps replace and that was to time consuming for them to do.
I was hoping the insurance company would declare it dead and off some kind of settlement. Hopefully witht he new bulb I gave to the repair shop, it will be close to like new.

I have the 52525 and was wondering if anyone has seen white specs on the screen? Not pixilation, just 1/8" or less white lines sporadic on the screen. Also noticed that the picture seems to be darker and I still have 1/2 life on the bulb. Is this a warning sign of things to come?

Anyone want a WD52825 with the BGLOD or know of anyone in the Northern IN/Southern MI area that could do the possible fixes?

Sorry for the crosspost...
I recently had the the famous BGLOD problem on my WD-62525. I had an extended warranty that was about to expire, so I contacted them, and a tech came and took the chassis out, sent it up to Mits., and I'm sure (or least hope) they replaced all the suspicious caps, if not all of them. The BGLOD problem went away, as expected, and I can turn my set off and on like it was new. What didn't get fixed was the fan on the right side (as seen from the front, but best heard from the back), which is right next to the chassis, doesn't turn off after power down. I waited plenty of time for it to completely turn off. Heck, I waited until the next morning to make sure. So here's my question... should the cap fix take care of this (I'd rather it not be sent back to Mits., but if the caps are the cause, then I have to)? Or is this a separate problem? TIA.

I've owned the WD-52525 since 7/04. The lamp has been replaced twice and it has been in the shop for the blown capacitor problem. Thankfully all the repairs were covered under my five year extended warranty. Unfortunately the set died again last week - it will not start (continuous blinking green light). The extended warranty has expired so the repair cost will be out of pocket.:(

I don't know how much the repairs will cost, but I will have them done. I will give the repaired set to my sister because I just purchased a Sony KDL-52XBR9 LCD to replace the Mits. The Mits is a great set, but the numerous problems and the inconvenience it has cost me has forced me to move on.

Regards....JL

Got a call on Fri from the repair shop. My set has been shipped back to Rochester NY last Wed. I should get it back next Fri. It will be in the downstairs family room and be rarely used. AOur main set is s new Samsung..

Never mind, found the answer from the other Mits. DLP thread and the manual.

"Portions of the advanced circuitry of this TV must continue to operate even when the TV is turned off. Some of these circuits therefore need to be cooled at all times. A low power standby fan may be heard in a quiet environment. This is normal operation."

A friend of mine has a newer Mits. DLP (don't know the model number, but it may be 3 years old), but there is no fan that stays on on his.

Sorry for the crosspost...
I recently had the the famous BGLOD problem on my WD-62525. I had an extended warranty that was about to expire, so I contacted them, and a tech came and took the chassis out, sent it up to Mits., and I'm sure (or least hope) they replaced all the suspicious caps, if not all of them. The BGLOD problem went away, as expected, and I can turn my set off and on like it was new. What didn't get fixed was the fan on the right side (as seen from the front, but best heard from the back), which is right next to the chassis, doesn't turn off after power down. I waited plenty of time for it to completely turn off. Heck, I waited until the next morning to make sure. So here's my question... should the cap fix take care of this (I'd rather it not be sent back to Mits., but if the caps are the cause, then I have to)? Or is this a separate problem? TIA.

I've owned the WD-52525 since 7/04. The lamp has been replaced twice and it has been in the shop for the blown capacitor problem. Thankfully all the repairs were covered under my five year extended warranty. Unfortunately the set died again last week - it will not start (continuous blinking green light). The extended warranty has expired so the repair cost will be out of pocket.:(

I don't know how much the repairs will cost, but I will have them done. I will give the repaired set to my sister because I just purchased a Sony KDL-52XBR9 LCD to replace the Mits. The Mits is a great set, but the numerous problems and the inconvenience it has cost me has forced me to move on.

Regards....JL

contact Mits at 1-800-332-2119 extension 8.

possible with your past repair history of already having caps/chassis issues that they may offer you a replacement set like the 60735. or at the least they will offer to pay for the chassis rebuild and you pay the labor which is usually $200-300 and then give you a one year warranty.

I have the 52525 and was wondering if anyone has seen white specs on the screen? Not pixilation, just 1/8" or less white lines sporadic on the screen. Also noticed that the picture seems to be darker and I still have 1/2 life on the bulb. Is this a warning sign of things to come?

Please offer some help on this or advice before I waste money on a repair to come in and say it's nothing.


Edit:
Tech came out and diagnosed as needing a rebuilt chassis. I'm having white specs appear randomly all over the screen. Install will be $200 and chassis rebuild will be $335. Tech says they will pay for the rebuild, but most likely not the install. I'll try and get them to pay for that too. Tech did mention that after this year, Mitsu. most likely will not be paying to get the chassis paid for anymore, so anyone with problems, get it done now.

I pulled the electrical chassis out.
opened it up and found a bunch of bulging caps.
ordered and replaced all the bulging caps and caps of the same type even if they weren't bulged.
here's a list of the caps i replaced.

DM board
C81B3, C81B4, C81A2, C81A3, qty 4 Digikey PN P5533-ND

Video board (board with the DVI connector)
C8F22... qty 4 Digikey PN P5533-ND

Terminal 2 board
C2M28... qty 2 Digikey PN 493-1270-ND

Power Board
C9A37, C9A38 qty 2 DK PN P12735-ND
C9A39, C9A40 qty 2 DK PN P5556-ND
C9A32, C9A33 qty 2 DK PN P10281-ND
C9A61, C9A62, C9A52, C9A59 qty 4 DK PN P5533-ND

with shipping it cost me less than $30 for all the caps.

i put it all back together and it flashed for a little bit after i plugged it in but then it found itself and the light turned off and it's been working good all weekend.

Just got my chassis out and I got two bulged caps on the left side, both of them are leaking a bit too. Haven't looked at the other boards. How exactly do I desolder and solder on the new ones? Should I pull out the other boards and check them too? The only problem I am having is it says that lamp needs to be replaced and I spent $120 replacing the lamp and it still says I need to replace the lamp...

you will need a good soldering iron that will put out lots of heat.
I found that the ground planes on the power supply board are quite thick and require lots of heat to get the solder to flow.
but don't let it set on the board to long or you can burn out the pads or vias.
then you will need a solder sucker to get the liquid solder off the board.
then you should be able to pull the old cap right out.
then insert the new cap (making sure it is oriented correctly)
solder the leads to the board and tirm off the excess lead and you are done.
if the above process sounds too complex you should probably let someone fix it for you...

make sure you get all the connectors, wires, shields back where they should go.
that electrical chassis is quite the complex assembly of cards, wires and metal.

fixed! Thanks for all the help guys!

just a quick update.
mine has yet to flash a timer light at me since i replaced all the caps....

Got Mitsu to pay 1/2 of the installation fees which was $200, and a 9 month warranty on the rebuilt chassis. If it fails within that time, they will send me a brand new TV. How do I get the Caps or something else in the chassis to burn out within that time ;)

Hi all, new to this thread.

I have a Mitsubishi WD62525. When I bought it, I purchased the extended warranty, fortunately for me. Unfortunately, it has expired. I've experienced the blinking green light several times but have always been able to work around the issue by hitting the reset button or removing the power or hopping counterclockwise on one foot on tuesdays or some combination thereof.

BGLOD suprisingly isn't really my problem (as of yet). The issue that causes me to post to this thread is a series of streaks that recently started showing themselves (no big suprise, it was right after my warranty expired). It's not all the time but it is most noticeable when the scene is pitch black.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

First post as I'm researching TVs. We have a Mits 57525 that we got in 2004. Looked great on the showroom floor back then (of course) however we have replaced the lamps time and again. The picture stinks, imo, but the warranty lasts until the end of 2009 - thank goodness! Not to even mention that it's a power hog.

Our idiotic electric company was in our area for some kind of maintenance on 11/17 and the power was out for about 8 hours. We were out of town that day and when we got home, the set was a dead parrot. No fans, nada. We had just put a new bulb as well. BTW, the bulbs are way cheaper on ebay.

The authorized service center is finally picking it up tomorrow. They are sending the chassis to Mits to be rebuilt or whatever they do with it. Time estimated for return is 6 weeks to 2 months?!?

Somehow, someway I'm going to hold the elec company responsible. We have an expensivo Monster power center - nothing else was harmed, so I seriously doubt it was the Monster's fault.

In the meantime we have our old trusty CRT from the bedroom in the living room which is a PITA for both of us. I don't watch much TV, but's it nice to watch the shows I like in there - although they are few and far between - but my husband is lost. At least he's read a few books in the interim. ;)

Even before it's returned, I'm definitely going to get a new one (and throw this one on CraigsList or somewhere when it's back) and am kinda torn between a plasma and an lcd. The only thing about the plasmas that concern me are all the calibration talk, the break in? time, among other things, like the viewing angle. I'm now torn between the Pioneer Kuro and the Panasonic Viera TC-P5S81. Some great deals on both on eBay, but buying big ticket items on there seems a bit sketchy although there are some authorized resellers.

Since my guy is a major technophobe, he has no need for any kind of internet stuff, plus I can always get a Blu-Ray or PS3 if necessary.

Off to ck the plasma threads which is the way I'm leaning (he's letting ME decide since I can do the research online) so I really don't want to screw up. For some reason the LCD/LED TVs seem to have taken over and I'm a bit hesitant about them - can't exactly say why.

Anyway, sorry to get rather OT, but the whole TV disaster was/is beyond annoying especially right before the holidays!

My 52725 returned after a chasis rebuild on 11/06. Went downstairs last Sunday to watch football, the wife was watching a Xmas DVD on the new Samsung in the living room. And had the blinking light of death, again. Even though my extended warranty expired in Sept. They OK the pick up of the TV by the repair shop again. I told them, I'd gladly take a cash settlement to unload this piece of s**t.

Any body still check this?

I've done several fixes for the BGLOD and it is back again.

I have done:
Capacitors on power board,
Capacitors on several other boards - all but the metal can type as I have no "video" issues.
I have done the "interupting power toggle switch fix" that really did the trick for me last time.

Now, about 5 months since the above switch, I"m back to BGLOD.

When power is applied, and switch flipped to supply power to the other board (FMT was it?) I got the BGLOD for about 8 blinks and then it will seem to pause for a "no blink" and then go back to blinking again. sometimes 9, 10, or 11 blinks before the "pause no blink" thing. I wonder if is it resetting itself for this paused portion?

Fan in the back does come on. I cleaned the set pretty well 5 months ago.

What are some things I can try before digging into the set?!?

I'm willing to give it one more good effort before dropping it from a high building and putting the footage on you tube. :)

Don't feel bad. The pro's can't even get it right. My mitsu was sent back for a chasis rebuild in Sept under warrante. Got it back Nov 6 and 3 weeks later had the blinking light of death again. Even though the original extended coverage expire in Sept, the insurance company ok'd another attempt to fix it. Wish they would just total it and give me a cash settlement.

I have the 62825... in the Phoenix AZ area.

Not the original purchaser, and no Warranty.

I may tackle replacing the caps... should I call Mitsubishi instead?

Is there a comprehensive list of all the caps or do I need to look them up?

Thanks... and Happy New Year!
Dave

I opted for using Mitsubishi customer service for the new chassis and new warranty on it, etc. It cost me $ 209.00 for the labor, chassis was free. My first new chassis (12/15) died on the 2nd day it was installed. I contacted mits, they insisted I try another new chassis which has been flawless so far. Replacement took two days for the second one. Mitsubishi told me if this one fails they will replace and advised me to look into what sets I might like if that happens. I liked that answer so I am actually hoping mine has further problems.

Hi, mine is still going strong with no problems and even have my original lamp in mine. However, the replace lamp light has been on for over 2 years now! So should I go ahead and do this or just wait till its out. What's the going price for one of the lamps now and is it a DIY?

Thanks!

This same topic is being covered at
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17833053&posted=1#post17833053

My mitsu died less than 3 weeks after I got it back after mitsu did a chassis rebuild. I'm trying to get some kind of settlement so I can get rid of the boat anchor.

Alright, I searched but likely failed.

I have a wd-52525 that recently has developed green and purple lines across the screen after the tv has wamred up. It's fine when I first turn the tv on, but after 5-10 minutes the lines appear. They are vertical for the most park then move to diagonal. I can still see the image behind the lines and for the most part it's watchable, but it's driving me nuts.

I will get a picture and upload it soon. But does anyone have ideas?

If it's the caps, which caps should I look for?

I'll also download the manuals over lunch and look at them.

I've had this set for about 4 years and bought it used.

EDIT: I just checked and the lamp has about 4800 hours on it if that makes a difference. No lamp light or anything though.
thanks

search and get more direct help in the Mits WD-62/52x25 owners thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=231

HiSubaDrew i had same problem see my post on page 91 of this thread. i fixed by replacing bad capacitors on power board only. post page 84 has 4 pic of blown caps on power board. i learned how to solder from youtube, and replaced the bad caps. 1st i open back tv and got to power board,fowwolw the power cable it goes to the power board hidden under a the silver metal back with many circular holes. remove and looked for bad caps, ordered new ones on ebay and desolder out bad and solder in new.

You do not need to diconnect all the wires to access the power board that is on the back of the chasis. by removing the screw that hold the chassis to tv unit you can pull the unit out half way and turn it 90 degress to get access to back of chassis (again follow the power cord it connects to the power board) look for blown caps and order what you need on ebay...radio shack did not sell the 3300 caps i needed. i cant be positive this is what is wrong with yours but a good chance it is.




Alright, I searched but likely failed.

I have a wd-52525 that recently has developed green and purple lines across the screen after the tv has wamred up. It's fine when I first turn the tv on, but after 5-10 minutes the lines appear. They are vertical for the most park then move to diagonal. I can still see the image behind the lines and for the most part it's watchable, but it's driving me nuts.

I will get a picture and upload it soon. But does anyone have ideas?

If it's the caps, which caps should I look for?

I'll also download the manuals over lunch and look at them.

I've had this set for about 4 years and bought it used.

EDIT: I just checked and the lamp has about 4800 hours on it if that makes a difference. No lamp light or anything though.
thanks

Hi, I too now have the BLOD. Funny thing is it happened after I had some sort of power outage at my house while I was at work. I came home and found my clocks had lost memory and my 62725 dead. I also have a nice monster surge protector connected to my TV and other devices (TIvo, receiver, etc.). My other devices are fine. I found the similarities between what happened to me and others here very interesting.

I noticed that many here seem to be getting Mits to pay for some or all of the repair and at least one person contacting the power company. Can anyone give me any guidance on how to approach the power company or Mits with this request??? I've already contacted Mits customer service and there service centers and got quotes ranging from $400 to $800 for a chassis rebuild and 6-8 week downtime with only a 30 day warranty !!!! I am seriously just thinking forget it and buying another TV with that kind of deal. Hope someone can help.

The saga of my 52725 is coming to an end. After 2 repair attempts and a 3rd failure, Mitsu is giving me store credit at the store where I bought my set 5 years ago. They offered me $645 credit. That is better than I expected. Also a week ago a box with a lamp showed up on my doorstep and I got a receipt from Mits saying it was paid in full. There is also a brand new bulb in the set. The repair shop may give me some cash for the bulbs.

I think I made out well.

I turned on my set today and all I got were wide green vertical bars on the left work to the right to a coule of wide black bars?

Any thoughts?:confused:

Well I guess it's my turn. For a long while I constantly got the message "Did you change the lamp". I'd press cancel because the lamp has never been changed. Then, one day it would not turn on so I pressed the reset button and still would not turn on. I unplugged for awhile, plugged it back up and the tv came on (this happened twice). Now, it won't come on at all. So I will be opening it up to see if I have some of the same issues and others here. Sadly, I hardly used this tv so it doesn't have lots of miles on it. Wish me luck

Is anyone familiar with this Mitsubishi repair kit and is it worth the price? http://www.tvrepairworld.com/mitsubishi_repair_kits


Al

I can't believe there hasn't been a class action suit bought against Mitsubishi regarding the WD series DLP. There was definitely a design/manufacturing flaw and we early adopters (=paying top $$'s) of this product have paid the price in lost time and in money. My old Sony and Zenith CRT TV sets were more dependable then these WD DLPs. At least they are still working.

I have to wonder how many of these sets sold in 2004-05 are even still in service. I know that my brother's set is dead and just taking up space in his living room. Personally, I went through two extended repairs and after the last one, I gave it to my sister. Guess what!? The on board audio is out and I have to use an external audio system.

IMHO, Mitsubishi ripped us off and got away with it.:mad:

Thanks for letting me rant.

Regards...JL

I went straight to Mitsubishi, after 2 chasis rebuilds under waranty that failed after only a few hours of use. It was our secondary set as we had replaced it with a Samsung.
After complaining a lot, I was given $645 in store credit where I bought the set in 04.
With that credit, I got myself a 40 inch RCA lcd for under $200 net. I had a brand new bulb that Mitsu had sent me and the repair shop that had handled the set bought it off of me.

Well I am frustrated as all hell now. I replaced the caps on the power board and all the voltages check out now. I have 2 ballast boards and I have sound from the channel but still no picture. I turn it on and it tries 3 times to light in the first minute only to click over and give me the red lamp light and a code 34 (lamp failed to light duh) I have 337V to the ballast now. I can only think that perhaps the cap on the ballast board could be the issue otherwise I am stumped for now!

Any ideas anyone?

Ironically none of my caps ever looked bad (no leaking, bulging nada)

Also i found that acetone was a great way to clean off 4 years of gunk that had built up on the plastic screen. It looks brand new and caused no damage just be careful when you get close to the bottom it can take off the markings for the buttons. Too bad i can't see a picture on it yet.

I have a base for the 62". Originally used with a 62725 but I believe will fit any 62".

I'm in L.A. so best if you are too. Not sure how the heck I'd ship this thing. No reasonable offer will be refused. If you're interested please PM me as I no longer monitor this thread.

Hi. I need some input regarding a WD-52525. The lamp blew up a few weeks back and I ordered a new one. I installed the new lamp and the orange "Lamp Error" light on the front panel will not go out. Obviously, the set will not power up. I got the lamp exchanged just in case it was a bad lamp. The second new lamp gives me the same result. What could the problem be now?

The main board was replaced in 2/10. Mits picked up 90% of the repair cost. The Mits authorized repair shop in my area is VERY difficult to deal with and I hesitate to deal with these people again. Should I cut my loses and just junk it?

BTW, if any one is interested in a new lamp, you can have it for $50 shipped.

TIA....JL

Happened to me once. One of the prongs inside was bent. Check to make sure the prongs that connect to the lamp are straight.

Thanks. I will double check it.

I loved my Mitsu 52525, but unfortunately it didn't last as long as I would have preferred. I got this frame just before the set died on me, never even got a chance to install it. It's still in the box!

If anyone is interested please send a PM.

Drew

Hi, new here.
I bought one of these monstrosities, a 65285, back in '06. I love the picture but hate how slow the channels change. Any ways, about 3 mnonths ago I had to have the chassis replaced and now I'm having the lamp issue. The TV starts, sound starts, the picture comes on and then within a minute or so the set turns off and the red light comes on. Looks like capacitor time for me eh? Think I'll attempt to fix it once and then it goes to the curb. Pretty sure my next TV will be a Sony...

I get the vertical banding (green/magenta) scrolling at various rates.

Don't know if it's the capacitor set or what...I don't think it's worth 2k to fix it though.

Thoughts?

Selling my broken WD-62725 for cheap. Local pickup only in greater Seattle area
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290640261707

So, I have a WD-52525 that I've decided to "give up" on. I have repaired the power supply board and then discovered that at least one other board had the bulged caps. I'm less than enthused about pulling that one apart and making the repairs when I expect that I'll need to downsize soon anyway.

So, my decision is your opportunity for spare parts or repair parts. I'm willing prevent at least some of this from going into a landfill and helping you keep your Mitsu. TV working by parting it out.

I'm in Washington State, North of Seattle (98203) and I'm willing to ship parts. With the possible exception of a few select parts, I'm willing to do this for the cost of packing and shipping.

I have the full manual plus the schematic and the board breakdown and blow up diagram, so I'm pretty confident that I can find what you want. But if its a lot of messing to remove what you want, I'm likely to either say no or ask for a few dollars to offset the PITA (more likely to say no.)

I'll ship via USPS and I'm willing to accept payment for postage via Paypal but the received payment (what I receive, not what Paypal receives from you) has to cover the costs.

I can supply pics, but I'm not so willing to spend all my time uploading photos for people that are just looking.

I'll consider reasonable requests (as I noted above) but remember, this is something that is free. I'm not going to work too hard, and everything is pretty much "as is". If you want some little part that is hard to get out, you get the whole assembly, take it or leave it.

Lastly, I'm probably on a bit of a time line on this. I don't know when I need to have it gone, not for a couple of weeks yet anyway, but this is not an offer that is going to go on for many weeks or months.

Contact me if interested. You can reach me at gfhopper at gmail dot com.