Originally posted by neoikon
Wow, those pics look hype! That's how I want mine to look, damnit! ;)

I can't find a Microsoft HD pack for the life of me. It's always out of stock. I was forced to buy a 3rd party cheapo through eBay. I'm probably going to end up paying the $100 for the Xbox monster cables (with optical addition). What a rip!

Thanks for the info!

neoikon

I thought you'd like those! :) I'm sending you a PM regarding the cable stuff....we aren't supposed to post anything but MSRP here, and I can point toward a little better pricing on some of the Monster stuff...

Randy

I have a 52525 with a Tivo HD box and a new Denon 2910 DVD player. Both have HDMI outputs. I may share the HDMI cable by switching the cable manually.

Is there anyway to set up 2 Monlinks in NetCommand each with different devices with the appropriate AVR inputs so the AV receiver switches properly. So far I haven't been able to "trick" NetCommand into allowing me to set up 2 Monlinks but was wondering if anyone has figured this out.

Warning to .003 firmware users....

After upgrading from .001 to .003, I now have problems with a local OTA channel (46 renamed to 8.1; the NBC station in Portland, OR). This channel was fine previously with the .001 firmware. After the firmware upgrade, this channel won't stay locked in, it constantly breaks up. The status display alternates between SD 4:3 and HD 16:9 and the TV becomes unresponsive to the remote control and front panel. I tried to auto-scan the OTA antenna input again, and now the auto-scan "hangs" on channel 46 for a number of minutes.

Wasn't a problem with the previous firmware. Looks to me like they "broke" something or the local broadcaster just happened to change something at the same moment I upgraded firmware (that would be a pretty big coincidence).

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Here's a new topic that you'll all probably get a good laugh from....

Where in the world do you guys store the protective screen after you've removed it?

And what's the latest word on that snap-in border/frame that Mits was supposed to bring out? Anyone actually seen one or heard anything definitive yet?

Three Mits employees were in my store a couple days ago. They said the trim piece is still about a month away and should be around $50.

Quick question: After the xx725 and the xx825, whats new for DLP tvs from Mits?

I'm asking this because I'm thinking about waiting until next summer to buy a digital 50+ inch tv. That way, I can get a deal on DirecTv NFL sports package. Plus I'll get a huge tax return back and that can go towards all of these fun toys

Originally posted by subwoofer
I'm asking this because I'm thinking about waiting until next summer to buy a digital 50+ inch tv. That way, I can get a deal on DirecTv NFL sports package. Plus I'll get a huge tax return back and that can go towards all of these fun toys

I think someone posted that Mitsu has a 2 year no interest deal going on or it might just have ended. So why not buy now pay min payments and then use your refund to pay off the balance. That way you have the chance to watch HD all winter and enjoy.....

YEEEHAAAA . . . I'm on my way!!!

Went down to BB here in Thousand Oaks, Ca today and bought the 62727 and the Denon 3910. I will be having both delivered to my house next Wed 10/27. So, here's the system - all bought within the last month and mostly still in boxes:

Harmon Kardon Citation 16 amp (for mains)
Denon 3805 AVR
Denon 3910 Universal Player
Paradigm Studio 100 Mains
Paradigm Studio CC 570 Center
Paradigm Studio ADP 470 Surrounds
Paradigm Mini Monitor Rears
Hsu VTF3 MK2 Subwoofer
Basic POS Adelphia cable box/service
New BlueJeans cables
Shielded Monster 12G in-wall speaker wire


Now I need to make a temporary stand for the 725. I think I saw this before, but could someone please post the width, depth and most inportantly the height from the bottom of the TV to the middle of the screen so I can make an appropriate stand?? I will make supports from the stand up to a shelf to hold the incredibly heavy CC 570 center I think - can the 725 safely support a 45+ lb center mounted in some fashion on it???

I need to run the surround speaker wire this week, as well as move furniture around etc, before stuff gets here next week - so I'm glad I didn't try to get it here any sooner.

I humbly ask and invite any and all local and semi-local forum members that would like to visit, watch, help or just laugh to come over for beer and pizza - maybe the Sunday after Halloween. Just PM me with your details and we can have some fun!!!!

Thanks for all your help in my analysis of these products, and I will now really be getting into the arcane minutia - so beware - you've helped create a monster - albeit a very happy one just in time for Halloween!!

Paul

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Warning to .003 firmware users....

After upgrading from .001 to .003, I now have problems with a local OTA channel (46 renamed to 8.1; the NBC station in Portland, OR). This channel was fine previously with the .001 firmware. After the firmware upgrade, this channel won't stay locked in, it constantly breaks up. The status display alternates between SD 4:3 and HD 16:9 and the TV becomes unresponsive to the remote control and front panel. I tried to auto-scan the OTA antenna input again, and now the auto-scan "hangs" on channel 46 for a number of minutes.

Wasn't a problem with the previous firmware. Looks to me like they "broke" something or the local broadcaster just happened to change something at the same moment I upgraded firmware (that would be a pretty big coincidence).

Anyone or HTBruceM: I do not receive any info from OTA channels in the Channel View. Can you tell my how I do a auto-scan for the OTA channels? Thanks.


I figured it out. Thanks

Originally posted by PauldF
YEEEHAAAA . . . I'm on my way!!!

Now I need to make a temporary stand for the 725. I think I saw this before, but could someone please post the width, depth and most inportantly the height from the bottom of the TV to the middle of the screen so I can make an appropriate stand?? I will make supports from the stand up to a shelf to hold the incredibly heavy CC 570 center I think - can the 725 safely support a 45+ lb center mounted in some fashion on it???

IPaul
Paul, this is part of my post in the TV Stands Thread. I posted a pic there also...

I have the Salamander Triple 20. I have lowered the standard levelers to their minimum. The top of the unit is 21 inches from the floor. The middle of the picture from the base of the 62725 is 27 inches, so the height from the floor to the middle of the screen is 48 inches. On my couch, my eyes are 40 inches from the floor (when I'm not slouching - LOL). I have pushed the TV back to 12-13 feet from where our heads are on the couch, and it no longer seems too high.

[ps I almost moved my family across the country 8 months ago to take a job in Ca, and would have bought in Westlake or Thousand Oaks. But I'm still in NY...]

Originally posted by dwarren2
I think someone posted that Mitsu has a 2 year no interest deal going on or it might just have ended. So why not buy now pay min payments and then use your refund to pay off the balance. That way you have the chance to watch HD all winter and enjoy.....

I like you thinking. Cause I went to Tweeter today and if I made the purchase today, it would only be about $200 a month and then I would get a great tax return next summer to pay it all off. Only question would be, which stand to get and which HD provider to get. Decisions and decisions

But why would Mitsu not make anymore tvs for 2 years? Makes no sense, unless they can verify that the xx725 and xx825 will be able to compete against tvs in 2005 and 2006.

PauldF

Cant wait for your review w/the 3910 and the xx725. I am using a Panny XP30 that rated great in the DVD Benchmark tests and its about a $200 player. So I am trying to justify spending 1K on the Denon.

Hey everyone,

I finally went out and bought a copy of DVE, and I just have a question (maybe UMR can provide some insight)...

I am playing around with the contrast/brightness/color/tint/PerfectColor settings, and I am confused...

The contrast/brightness adjustments confuse me. I can adjust the brightness without any trouble (but the TV or DVD player appear to be unable to display the "blow black outer strip in the PLUGE patterns. I understand that some TV's are just this way, and nothing can be done about it. So I get the 2% bar to be just visible with the brightness setting. The problem is the contrast setting. I don't understand what to look for in the greyscale ramps to get the contrast set correctly. From what I understand, the blooming in the "normal" grayscale bar that was in the pluge pattern isn't apparent (I didn't even try it since the DVD said that for digital displays, this wouldn't work well). Can anyone shed some light on this for me??

Secondly, I played for quite a while with the colors to try to get the test pattern to look right with the red green and blue filters. I can get red and blue or green and blue to look good, but never all three. The yellow seems to be the troublesome color. I tried tint, color, and perfectcolor to get it as close as I could (compromise between the red and green filters). When I say they look OK, i mean that the colors in each pattern that are supposed to blend into the background are the ones I focus on. The colors that are supposed to be dark in the patterns are also a little odd. For example, on the green filter view, the red is dark (essentially black), but the colors around that one are too light (the blue and magenta). Those two boxes actually look like they are the same color. Right now I have the yellow tweaked to blend into the green filter background, but the yellow box looks too light on the red filter background.

Has anyone else had the same thing happen?

Finally, looking ahead to how to use these filters with the other inputs that I don't have test patterns for...is there any documentation of what the color bars that pop up in the PerfectColor should look like through the filters? It isn't immediately obvious to me...Or is there another way to use the TV's internal test patterns to do this (and still be able to adjust settings while viewing the patterns in the service menu)?

Thanks!
Jeff

Jeff,

Setting contrast and brightness properly on this TV may not be possible. I thought Avia did the best at this. The set I looked at crushed whites. Another person reported crushed blacks. Mits may have not enough rangability to properly set the levels on all devices. I would look at the ramps shifting color to tell you when the contrast is too high. The white should not shift color across the gray ramp.

The green filter supplied with Avia and DVE leaks another primary too much to adjust the color decoder without seeing how it should look on a properly calibrated display. Green will be darker than white. I believe yellow is the same as white and cyan should match green. This assumes the color wheel is timed right. The set I looked at leaked green with the blue filter. This meant blue was bleeding into green because the blue filter is very good.

I would not use the color bars that pop up with the PerfectColor display.

Any info would be helpful before I spend MORE money on AV related stuff. Can someone please give me a short overview o how to use the Avia or DVE tool? If I want to calibrate my Mits 52525, what "tools" other than Avia or DVE will I need? I know the answer is subjective, but are the results worth the effort? I am in the tech field, just don't have any experience in this area.

TIA.....JL

I'm sure I am at least as unknowledgeable as you about all the new AV stuff, but did find it pretty straight-forward to use AVIA. Not that I took the settings that I got from it as the 'final word', but they are a very good starting point, and then I adjusted brightness and contrast (the two most critical adjustments) to personal taste. (E.g., I found that the brightness setting--i.e., black level--that I got out of AVIA, and also from DVE, to be too low for my taste.) Good luck!

Originally posted by millerwill
I'm sure I am at least as unknowledgeable as you about all the new AV stuff, but did find it pretty straight-forward to use AVIA. Not that I took the settings that I got from it as the 'final word', but they are a very good starting point, and then I adjusted brightness and contrast (the two most critical adjustments) to personal taste. (E.g., I found that the brightness setting--i.e., black level--that I got out of AVIA, and also from DVE, to be too low for my taste.) Good luck!

Would you say that it is really worth the money to have Avia in addition to DVE? I just picked up DVE last night, mostly because it was readily available at Barnes and Noble. I don't want to spend any more on Avia if it woun't get me much additional help.

To UMR:

Is there a better source for the filters that came with DVE? You mentioned that one or more of the filters didn't work correctly...

Thanks,
Jeff

I don't have Avia, but I've got DVE. The DVE provides a very long-winded explanation of all the things you will calibrate. It is a good learning tool itself, but you will need a couple hours with it at least. It walks you through the major calibrations, plus it has all the reference patterns in a separate section at the end once you know what you want to do.

That said, the navigation on the disc is not very intuitive. It divides up its content into "titles" and chapters within each title. The title feature is not commonly used and can be tricky to find on your remote. On my remote it is called "title search".

AVIA is definitely easier to use (I was told this and can verify it), so I got it first, even though it is more expensive. Then, since DVE is pretty inexpensive, I also got it and have found it also useful (but long-winded as noted above). I especially liked the brightness/black level check for blacker-than-black in DVE.

Can somebody explain what this means? Thanks.

Just to let people know. Mitsubishi's no payment and no interest financing will end on 1 NOV 2004.


3 Diamond Promotion (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/promotions/threediamond/default.asp)

I got my 62-725 two days ago and the PQ was great OTB. No tilt, No rainbows, and No color splotches. This thing is a monster!!

Question on some of the settings that you guys are using based on UMR's figures. The picture looks soft, dark, and blurry with those settings. I know I should run tests with DVE myself but I'm not as a/v competent as most of you in here and I'm not confident that the outcome will result in PQ improvement.

I guess I won't know until I try but did anyone else notice this with UMR's settings. I prefer the OTB settings with the contrast and sharpness jacked up to the other settings. My main viewing is HD Sports and that's what I've based my comparison on with an HD-TIVO through component.

I'm very satisfied which is all I really care about but just wanted to ask.

thanks

Originally posted by Nedtsc
Can somebody explain what [black crush] means? Thanks.

"A loss of detail in the video image. Loss of detail in dark scenes is referred to as black crush and in light scenes as white crush."

http://white.hometheatertalk.com/glossary.htm#Crush

Originally posted by rreeves
I got my 62-725 two days ago and the PQ was great OTB. No tilt, No rainbows, and No color splotches. This thing is a monster!!


I guess I won't know until I try but did anyone else notice this with UMR's settings. I prefer the OTB settings with the contrast and sharpness jacked up to the other settings. My main viewing is HD Sports and that's what I've based my comparison on with an HD-TIVO through component.

I'm very satisfied which is all I really care about but just wanted to ask.

thanks

Hi...
Congrats on your new set! When I first bought the set, I liked the PQ out of the box....it was very vibrant, bright, in-your-face. I am trying out two indoor antennas and on digital channels there is no real difference between them, so I tweaked one input more or less with UMR's settings, and left the other alone. After just a little bit, I realized that I really preferred the tweaked settings. The picture wasn't really softer, but it seemed so since it wasn't screaming at me. The more I looked at it, the more I could see that it looks more natural....not cartoon-like. The colors were richer, there was no video noise in the grass during sports broadcasts, etc. A friend came over to watch a football game in HD, and when I first changed between the two inputs, he liked the one out of the box. After I pointed out a couple of things and had him spend a little time on the tweaked pic, he agreed it was better. It doesn't 'wow' you in the same way, but I think you might find that it is much easier and pleasing to watch. Or not. :) It all comes down to personal preference. In the end, do what works for you!

Randy

I'll pitch in my $.02 cents here...

Picture settings are a matter of personal taste. Most people who frequent these forums are most interested in an accurate picture, and the OTB settings are not designed for accuracy. Those settings are designed to attract buyers to the TV in the store. That means the brightest and most vivid colors wins. Why? Because when people say "It was a bright picture", it's implied that it's a good thing. In reality, that bright picture might have poor black levels, crushing whites, and a color decoder setting that emphasizes green grass on a football field. All of this might look good in casual comparison to another TV in the overly bright store, but that doesn't make it ACCURATE. After all, the grass on that field isn't really that bright green in person...

Same can be said for audio - people like different equalization settings to sound pleasing to their ear. And big, booming bass can be impressive sounding and wow the friends. But that doesn't make it ACCURATE.

That said, I'd have to agree with Randy; personal preference is what gives you satisfaction in your large investment. If you like the way it looks OTB, then you should use it that way. About the only downside of running with full contrast on this TV might be a slightly shorter bulb life, but that's about it. Not nearly as problematic as a CRT-based system.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
About the only downside of running with full contrast on this TV might be a slightly shorter bulb life, but that's about it.
Contrast has no effect on the bulbs in micro device RPTV sets. The bulb is full on when ever the TV is on so blast away if that looks good to you.

Originally posted by rreeves
I got my 62-725 two days ago and the PQ was great OTB. No tilt, No rainbows, and No color splotches. This thing is a monster!!

Question on some of the settings that you guys are using based on UMR's figures. The picture looks soft, dark, and blurry with those settings. I know I should run tests with DVE myself but I'm not as a/v competent as most of you in here and I'm not confident that the outcome will result in PQ improvement.

I guess I won't know until I try but did anyone else notice this with UMR's settings. I prefer the OTB settings with the contrast and sharpness jacked up to the other settings. My main viewing is HD Sports and that's what I've based my comparison on with an HD-TIVO through component.

I'm very satisfied which is all I really care about but just wanted to ask.

thanks

I found the same thing, 0 sharpness created a blurry picture. My settings were very close to umr's anyway, had been struggling with the perfect color settings for a while, but his were great! Thanks!
only changed a few:
sharpness- 19
magenta- 50
define edge- on
video noise- standard

hope this helps.
and once again thanks to umr for the color settings!
Matt

Originally posted by htwaits
Contrast has no effect on the bulbs in micro device RPTV sets. The bulb is full on when ever the TV is on so blast away if that looks good to you. Thanks, it was just a guess. I thought maybe they used a combination of mirror on/off timing along with bulb voltage. Probably most of these picture adjustments are in the analog section anyway.

I took another look at a Mits DLP. This one had an HTPC on a VGA input and SA 8000HD on component. It crushed whites just like the first one. It also did not display pluge which the other was able to do. That is two for two on crushing whites. The strange thing is we could do nothing to prevent it either from the PC or in the Mits user/service menus. Mits needs to do something to fix crushing whites.

I suggested he contact his dealer and Mitsubishi about the problem. Maybe they can issue new firmware to fix this.

For anyone else here that sees a bright spot on their Mitsubishi DLP, can you post here. It is a struggle trying to convince Mitsubishi that there is an issue with this since according to them, I am the only one who has brought this up so far. If it didn't affect the picture, I wouldn't care, but dark scenes and dark material are affected by this... If anyone who does see this can notify Mitsubishi, it would be helpful... thanks...

Originally posted by slobbie
I've had my 62725 for a day now and am overall happy with it. I noticed when watching the NLCS last night that the white jerseys sometimes seemed REALLY white. Is this that "white crush" some have noticed with DLP's? Any way to tweak it out?

The pc connection is great via VGA. Surfing web is crystal clear...way better than my replaced 32 inch crt dtv.

Thanks.

I am not an expert, but I think this comes from the source. I notice the same thing with DirecTV's Sunday Ticket. Whites often show some blooming and reducing the contrast just results in a dull picture. I had a Mits 52525 for a month and didn't think it was worth the money. So I went for a Gold Plus CRT. It has the same problem with HD whites during sporting events. Some HD Sunday Ticket games look great, some just OK. The games with the best PQ are usually the night and dome games with their even lighting (you can easily tweak out the bright whites during these games). Sunlit games, on the other hand, can look less-than-stellar! This all leads me to believe that the white crush we see is a case of the technicians setting the auto-exposure envelope of the broadcast equipment at a compromise level. They don't have time to make fine ongoing adjustments, so they aim for a level that makes everything look good to OK, rather than optimizing for one level. Just a theory since I really have no idea what they really do.

Mike

mdenero,

This is one of the sets I looked at that had white crush.

umr,

I am noticing the exact opposite on my 52525. I cannot get it to crush whites on any scan rate. This is coming from an Accupel HDG3000 via component. This is using a pluge with 98IRE on 100IRE background. There is quite a bit of color shifts as the contrast is increased, but the 98IRE never crushed with the 100IRE. I chose a contrast setting of 25 as this output 35ftl at 100IRE.

Black level can be set correctly without crushing blacks. I came up with a 39, I beleive very similar to your findings. Hopefully I'll be able to see some more of these sets and compare my findings.

Originally posted by gr8erimage
umr,

I am noticing the exact opposite on my 52525. I cannot get it to crush whites on any scan rate. This is coming from an Accupel HDG3000 via component. This is using a pluge with 98IRE on 100IRE background. There is quite a bit of color shifts as the contrast is increased, but the 98IRE never crushed with the 100IRE. I chose a contrast setting of 25 as this output 35ftl at 100IRE.

Black level can be set correctly without crushing blacks. I came up with a 39, I beleive very similar to your findings. Hopefully I'll be able to see some more of these sets and compare my findings.

Just out of curiosity, does this mean that you have brightness at 39 and contrast at 25?

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by gr8erimage
umr,

I am noticing the exact opposite on my 52525. I cannot get it to crush whites on any scan rate. This is coming from an Accupel HDG3000 via component. This is using a pluge with 98IRE on 100IRE background. There is quite a bit of color shifts as the contrast is increased, but the 98IRE never crushed with the 100IRE. I chose a contrast setting of 25 as this output 35ftl at 100IRE.

Black level can be set correctly without crushing blacks. I came up with a 39, I beleive very similar to your findings. Hopefully I'll be able to see some more of these sets and compare my findings.

Were you able to calibrate the gray scale? I had no luck getting the set to let me change the RGB gains.

Did you check for white or black crush with a less stellar source?

Getting ready to buy a 62725. Noting this discussion I was watching an NFL football game yesterday on a 36" SD Toshiba TV that was set up with a home theater DVD so brightness and contrast were set to those standards. Low and behold I note that the game I was watching had "white crush" on the uniforms. Probalby there other Sundays for years but just never noticed it. Tuning to other channels did not have the white crush. It must be source related.

Originally posted by rjg41
.... It must be source related.

Not the sets I have seen. You need to read about TV calibration. I would suggest you search for information from Guy Koa.

Originally posted by umr
Were you able to calibrate the gray scale? I had no luck getting the set to let me change the RGB gains.

Did you check for white or black crush with a less stellar source?

I did recheck the black and white levels with my aiwa interlaced dvd player and came up with the same settings as my accupel.

I was able to set greyscale, with a bit of trial and error. The greyscale adjustments are not similar to their CRT bretheren at all. The set was able to track very close to D65 across the greyscale. I'll send you a PM.

Is anyone who already owns a Mits 525/725 running Comcast regular cable thru the system without the digital/HD option enabled? Reason I ask is not about HD content... but SD. My son recently bought one of those Sanyo 16:9 w/tuner sets at WM... amazing picture. Anyway, aside from the obvious HD feed that he's getting on NBC and CBS, FOX, and PBS (the local stuff via basic cable), when you go down to the basic channels his Sanyo is showing them as almost HD proportions in "normal" TV mode. He's not zooming or stretching the picture (which he can do). The PQ on these channels is like I said... something in-between HD and ordinary TV that I'm seeing on his other 36" Sony WEGA. It's wider and sharper.

So my question is whether Comcast is feeding digital cable signals through unfiltered or is it just the built in Sanyo tuner that's doing such a nice job?

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a X2725 this week, and I was wondering if anyone might have some feedback on PQ with and without Comcast digital/HD enabled/ordered. I have a more expansive cable package than my son does, and although it's almost a moote point, I was curious about PQ. It's somewhat important because PQ will probably drive me to a 52" or a 62"... and since the 62 is basically a blown-up 52 picture, I'm wondering what sort of picture quality I can expect.

Conversely, I'd be curious to hear about PQ from any Mits owners that have the cablecard installed or have the STB. And if you do have the STB, how did you link the box to the set? IOW... component, S-VHS, HDMI???

Thanks in advance!

Capt Mike

Although I haven't explored every channel from Comcast using the inbuilt cable tuner, I do not believe anyone can get the "digital" Comcast channels on their TVs without using the Comcast STB. The digital channels are not supposed to be viewable without cablecard.

Just a guess, but perhaps there is a window of time where you can get them on a newly installed QAM-based TV without registering; and then the channels will "go away" unless you complete some registration process. I thought this level of authentication required the cablecard, but maybe not.

Do you see this "better" picture quality on EVERY basic cable channel or only specific ones?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Although I haven't explored every channel from Comcast using the inbuilt cable tuner, I do not believe anyone can get the "digital" Comcast channels on their TVs without using the Comcast STB. The digital channels are not supposed to be viewable without cablecard.

Just a guess, but perhaps there is a window of time where you can get them on a newly installed QAM-based TV without registering; and then the channels will "go away" unless you complete some registration process. I thought this level of authentication required the cablecard, but maybe not.

Do you see this "better" picture quality on EVERY basic cable channel or only specific ones?

I see some of my Charter Cable channels (digital ones) in my guide, but they are just a black screen. However, some of them seem to just kind of get unscrambled/unencrypeted sometimes. Specifically any of the channels that are numbered 103 and higher can sometimes show up. I occasionally cycle through them just to see what is working, and I have seen what I suspect are pay-per-view movies come in, TEN (aka the "porno channel" as my wife calls it :D ), HBO, etc. Usually they will display for anywhere from 3 minutes to 10+ minutes, and when they go away, I see a Charter on demand preview-type channel that only shows up in the upper right corner of the screen. I suspect that this is the location of the video in some sort of on screen guide that would be visible if I had one of their STB's.

So basically, the channels can mysteriously show up sometimes, but they often don't las long, unfortunately.

I don't have any problem with the local channels (HD) that Charter has in their lineup. If they would just add FOX and CBS, I wouldn't need my rooftop antenna anymore (unless I want to record something in HD on my computer via the firewire connection). Firewire from those cable HD feeds just doesn't work for some reason...

Jeff

Originally posted by IronHorse
So my question is whether Comcast is feeding digital cable signals through unfiltered or is it just the built in Sanyo tuner that's doing such a nice job?

When I first got my Mitsubishi, I hooked up my Comcast limited basic feed to the TV and I received many digital channels "unfiltered". They were HD channels, 16:9-1080i or 16:9-720p, and SD channels which I thick is 4:3-480p. The regular analog cable channels showed up as 480i.

Conversely, I'd be curious to hear about PQ from any Mits owners that have the cablecard installed or have the STB. And if you do have the STB, how did you link the box to the set? IOW... component, S-VHS, HDMI???

I just recently got a cable box from Comcast and have it hooked up through the component interface. Signal quality is comparable to the internal tuner though channel tuning is much quicker.

Originally posted by IronHorse
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a X2725 this week, and I was wondering if anyone might have some feedback on PQ with and without Comcast digital/HD enabled/ordered. I have a more expansive cable package than my son does, and although it's almost a moote point, I was curious about PQ. It's somewhat important because PQ will probably drive me to a 52" or a 62"... and since the 62 is basically a blown-up 52 picture, I'm wondering what sort of picture quality I can expect.

Conversely, I'd be curious to hear about PQ from any Mits owners that have the cablecard installed or have the STB. And if you do have the STB, how did you link the box to the set? IOW... component, S-VHS, HDMI???

Thanks in advance!

Capt Mike [/B]

I got a 62525 a few weeks ago and I'm getting my HD (and SD) via Comcast CableCARD. The HD PQ is great, although there are sometimes large chunks of pixelation that look like an issue with the feed (I'm pretty sure it's not the TV, since it never does this with DVDs or SD channels). SD PQ varies widely. Some channels look terrible and others look pretty good. I absolutely love the PIP/POP options on the TV and not having a STB makes it soooo much easier to use. I was willing to give up the interactive guide and PPV to have the PIP/POP features through the native controls on the Mits remote.

As for your 52" vs 62" decision, you should make it based on your viewing distance. My room is 19' long, so anything less than 60" wasn't going to cut it. My first row is about 11' away from the TV and the second row is about 15'. PQ is awesome from the back row and pretty good from the front row. Hope this helps.

HTBruce...

IIRC... it was limited to channels that perhaps Comcast does have digital feed for? I know the major channels like NBC that were broadcasting a NASCAR event when we were surfing down in the non-HD section looked like digital.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Do you see this "better" picture quality on EVERY basic cable channel or only specific ones?

Time will tell because I will be getting a Mits XX725 ASAP through my local dealer to atke advantage of the financing and the $300 rebate.

BTW, thanks for the feedback on the PQ guys... keep it coming. :)

Capt Mike

I'm using Component from my Comcast 6200 STB. I set the box to 720p and the 52725 sees it fine and dandy. The wife is loving HD as well. She watched an IMAX Dolphins show the other night and was floored.

Score one for the TV!

I'm using HDMI from my 2910 to the TV for DVD. I was thinking maybe getting a HDMI switch box to use the DVI-D from the STB to HDMI on the switch box. If I get the 300.00 rebate that's what I'll probably do.

Oh and the Sox game looked great last night on Fox25 HD.

=)

GG in Southern Cal told me today that my 62825 is scheduled to be in their Local Warehouse on 11/3 and delivered to my house 1/2 days later.

This particular GG Store has received 27 orders (as of today) of 825's.

Originally posted by IronHorse
.... it was limited to channels that perhaps Comcast does have digital feed for? I know the major channels like NBC that were broadcasting a NASCAR event when we were surfing down in the non-HD section looked like digital. I know the local stations generally broadcast in digital using both HD and SD; each is on a different sub-channel. For example:
46.1 = local NBC station, digital transmission, HD
46.2 = local NBC station, digital transmission, SD
Now granted these are OTA channels... I suppose its possible that your local Comcast is showing those channels also, but I doubt it. The more likely scenario is the tuner you used just did a really good job on a quality analog signal. It can look very good if the original analog is pristine.

Originally posted by petelang
I'm using Component from my Comcast 6200 STB. I set the box to 720p and the 52725 sees it fine and dandy.
<snip>
I'm using HDMI from my 2910 to the TV for DVD. I was thinking maybe getting a HDMI switch box to use the DVI-D from the STB to HDMI on the switch box. If I get the 300.00 rebate that's what I'll probably do. Same equipment at my house, except I've got the 52525. Just hooked up the 2910 via both component and HDMI. Doing an A/B test between the two outputs, its pretty hard to notice differences between them; even at HDMI=720p or 1080i. At one point, I saw a couple jaggies on some sharp diagonal moving lines (a camera R-L pan looking upwards at skyscrapers on the DVE disc) on Comp480p.

I've tried DVI/HDMI between the 6200 to the TV, but I cannot see any improvement compared to the upscaled component. In fact, I now run the 6200 at 1080i instead of 720p. The TV converts the DVI/HDMI to analog internally anyway before the final A/D 720p converter.

What are you guys seeing when you bring up the Channel view with the Giude button? I'm with Comcast in the SF Bay Area. All I see is a list of 13 channels, with not much info other than the channel name, and program title for some channels only. The manual does state that the info is limited to what the cable provider is feeding, but if this is all I get from Comcast then the channel guide is useless. It bugs me not to be able to look up info on a program while I'm channel surfing. Guess I'll be keeping the Comcast set top box rather than getting a cablecard.

Originally posted by VeloSlacker
What are you guys seeing when you bring up the Channel view with the Giude button? I'm with Comcast in the SF Bay Area. All I see is a list of 13 channels, with not much info other than the channel name, and program title for some channels only. The manual does state that the info is limited to what the cable provider is feeding, but if this is all I get from Comcast then the channel guide is useless. It bugs me not to be able to look up info on a program while I'm channel surfing. Guess I'll be keeping the Comcast set top box rather than getting a cablecard.

I haven't really tried it with Comcast, but on the OTA stuff it is definitely hit and miss. Some channels provide the show, etc., some provide their broadcast format, and some provide nothing. It certainly isn't something that I would rely on for useful info...

Randy

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
For anyone else here that sees a bright spot on their Mitsubishi DLP, can you post here. It is a struggle trying to convince Mitsubishi that there is an issue with this since according to them, I am the only one who has brought this up so far. If it didn't affect the picture, I wouldn't care, but dark scenes and dark material are affected by this... If anyone who does see this can notify Mitsubishi, it would be helpful... thanks...

UMD_Terp,

I saw the spot a day after we first got our WD-52725. I'll look for it again today and am willing to report it (haven't watched much dark material). I wasn't looking for it when I first saw it, so I've to look again to see if it is still there. By the way, I wouldn't really call it a "bright" spot; more of a hazy low intensity reflection in the middle of the screen (left to right) and about a third to half of the way up (bottom to top). It matches the pics somebody (you?) posted on the forum. But when I walk up close to the set I really do not see it getting any brighter at any angle looking into the set, etc. (some of the descriptions here seemed to indicate that).

Please let me know which phone number you used to contact them. Thanks,

-Naidu

Naidu,

I contacted Mitsubishi customer support and e-mailed them pics of the spot. Call them up and tell them about it. Also, if you could somehow email them pics of this, it would be great. PM me or email me if you need any more info... thanks!

Here is the 300.00 Rebate coupon.

Print it out and send it in. I'm hosting this so be kind. Thanks to Capt Mike (IronHorse) for the screengrab.

http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/images/mits-coupon-01a.png

Hi all. I called Mitsubishi and the woman in charge faxed me the rebate, but also told me that it had been cancelled by management. So the deal is if you snagged a copy of the rebate they "should" have to honor it. She suggested purchasing as close the the date of 10/28 as possible as that is when the rebate offer was pulled. Since the dates on the rebate are much broader no one should have a problem cashing in legally speaking. Good luck everyone. $300 makes these sets much more attractive. I see it as making up for the included tuners that are of no use.

Originally posted by regulatorug
I see it as making up for the included tuners that are of no use.

Huh? The included tuners were one big factor that helped me make the decision to go with Mits...OTA rules! :D

-Randy

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Huh? The included tuners were one big factor that helped me make the decision to go with Mits...OTA rules! :D

-Randy

don't forget the digital QAM tuner as well ;)

Originally posted by IFLYSWA
Huh? The included tuners were one big factor that helped me make the decision to go with Mits...OTA rules! :D

-Randy

Agreed. I think the tuners in this TV are very good. They are definitely more sensitive than the tuner in my Dish 811 Sat receiver. I just wish they would add a "real time" signal strength meter for the digital channels. The one on the options menu is too slow to react to be useful.

Jeff

Hey everyone...

Came home from work today and turned on the TV and here had sound but no picture on the HD channel (cable) that I had left it on overnight. Tried to change to a different channel, and attached is a picture of what I saw - eeeek!

Anyone else seen this happen before? I ended up resetting the TV (twice - since the first one just left the status light blinking for an unusually long time). After the reset, all was normal again. The only input that was not showing a picture like this was my computers VGA connection. It looked fine.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by petelang
Here is the 300.00 Rebate coupon.

Print it out and send it in. I'm hosting this so be kind. Thanks to Capt Mike (IronHorse) for the screengrab.

http://petel-spam.home.comcast.net/images/mits-coupon-01a.png

Wow, thanks for the rebate! On the top it says Oct 25-Nov 16, but on the right it just says "before Nov 16th". I purchased mine about a month ago, so who knows if I'll actually get something.

What are people sending in as the "proof of purchase"? On smaller items, it's usually the UPC on the package, but what about on a monsterous 62" box? Copy of the receipt? Original receipt? The instructions are kinda vague.

Thanks!

Originally posted by spiff72
Agreed. I think the tuners in this TV are very good. They are definitely more sensitive than the tuner in my Dish 811 Sat receiver. I just wish they would add a "real time" signal strength meter for the digital channels. The one on the options menu is too slow to react to be useful.

Jeff

Are you referring to the signal strength meter on the Dish 811? I have a Mits WD-52525 and haven't seen a meter. BTW, I think the tuners are great also.

Regards...JL

Originally posted by SRFast
Are you referring to the signal strength meter on the Dish 811? I have a Mits WD-52525 and haven't seen a meter. BTW, I think the tuners are great also.

Regards...JL

When I said the tuner was more sensitive I meant that it seems to pull in stations better than the built in OTA tuner in the Dish receiver.

For the signal strength meter on the Mits, if you push "TV Menu", then 2-4-7-0, it brings up the option menu (it shows a "Digital Signal Strength" value, but is is a very slow updating value from 0-10). Don't mess with anything else in here though, since it is a sort of a service menu. Push the home button to get out of the menu. By the way it also shows the hours on the TV and bulb along the bottom.

It would be nice if they could do something with a future firmware update to add a signal strength graph to one of the menu pages (maybe on the main TV menu).

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by neoikon
Wow, thanks for the rebate! On the top it says Oct 25-Nov 16, but on the right it just says "before Nov 16th". I purchased mine about a month ago, so who knows if I'll actually get something.Thanks!

Sorry but I think you are out of luck. Page 2 from the Mitsubishi web site coupon print out states:

"Instructions and Program Rules: ....

6) This offer is valid from October 25, 2004 through November 16, 2004.
7) The qualifying Mitsubishi television, as detailed above, must be purchased during this period from an authorized Mitsubishi dealer."

This also means people purchasing from an Internet company need to ensure that they are an "authorized" Mitsubishi dealer.

Wiyh regard to the coupon, I'd have to agree that you had better have bought your set from a legitimate Mitsubishi delaer. The best way to find one is to go to the Mits web site and look for that section where you can plug in your zip code or state and they'll find their real dealers.

With regard to honoring the coupon, unless they want to face a class action lawsuit, I think they will ahve to honor the language and intent of the coupon. If you've met the conditions and bought a Mits product that is listed, and you bought it from a bona-fide Mitsubishi dealer... and can provide proof of purchase, well its pretty iron clad.

With regard to buying a set, I'm getting a lot of pressure from my son (doesn't even live here!) to go with the 62" and not the 52". His logic is summed up in a couple of anecdotes:

"If you think the set you're looking at is too big... you're probably too old to enjoy it."

"You have the room, it's not the extra money, don't buy the 52" when you know in a couple of months when its super bowl time that you really shoulda'bought the 62."

The other night I went down to my workshop and ripped a bunch of 3/4" X 3/4" pine strips on my table saw, then proceeded to "build" a frame that replicates the height and width of both the 52" and 62". I used four (4) pieces of wood and there are two verticals, and two horizontals. Obviously, the left side, top, and right side are a given. The 2nd horizontal is mounted so as to frame out the screen area to include the black mask area. One sheet metal screw in each "joint" (four total), allows folding!

So I built both frames and placed them in front of my 35" Toshiba. The 52"silouette "height" isn't really that much different than the current set, but it obviously is a good 10" or so wider. Pop the 62" silouette in front of the 52 and the CRT... and you know, its not _THAT_ much bigger again. So like John Kerry :) I'm waffling! But I hope to make the final decision this weekend, and the coupon is not the deciding factor, but it would be nice. I'm going to buy from a small local (Mitsubishi) dealer, not a national chain.

I'm kind of anal when it comes to space planning, and having a background in design/marketing... I also built a 1" = 1' scale model of the room so we can get a sense of how we're going to decorate. Just for kicks, I'll post pix of these two efforts this weekend. You'll see what a nut case I am :)!

Capt Mike

Originally posted by IronHorse
Wiyh regard to the coupon, I'd have to agree that you had better have bought your set from a legitimate Mitsubishi delaer. The best way to find one is to go to the Mits web site and look for that section where you can plug in your zip code or state and they'll find their real dealers.

With regard to honoring the coupon, unless they want to face a class action lawsuit, I think they will ahve to honor the language and intent of the coupon. If you've met the conditions and bought a Mits product that is listed, and you bought it from a bona-fide Mitsubishi dealer... and can provide proof of purchase, well its pretty iron clad.

With regard to buying a set, I'm getting a lot of pressure from my son (doesn't even live here!) to go with the 62" and not the 52". His logic is summed up in a couple of anecdotes:

"If you think the set you're looking at is too big... you're probably too old to enjoy it."

"You have the room, it's not the extra money, don't buy the 52" when you know in a couple of months when its super bowl time that you really shoulda'bought the 62."

The other night I went down to my workshop and ripped a bunch of 3/4" X 3/4" pine strips on my table saw, then proceeded to "build" a frame that replicates the height and width of both the 52" and 62". I used four (4) pieces of wood and there are two verticals, and two horizontals. Obviously, the left side, top, and right side are a given. The 2nd horizontal is mounted so as to frame out the screen area to include the black mask area. One sheet metal screw in each "joint" (four total), allows folding!

So I built both frames and placed them in front of my 35" Toshiba. The 52"silouette "height" isn't really that much different than the current set, but it obviously is a good 10" or so wider. Pop the 62" silouette in front of the 52 and the CRT... and you know, its not _THAT_ much bigger again. So like John Kerry :) I'm waffling! But I hope to make the final decision this weekend, and the coupon is not the deciding factor, but it would be nice. I'm going to buy from a small local (Mitsubishi) dealer, not a national chain.

I'm kind of anal when it comes to space planning, and having a background in design/marketing... I also built a 1" = 1' scale model of the room so we can get a sense of how we're going to decorate. Just for kicks, I'll post pix of these two efforts this weekend. You'll see what a nut case I am :)!

Capt Mike

I recommend the 62". I have a fairly long room, and my usual seating position is about 16 feet from the screen. I actually bought a 50" Sony GW3 to start, and after watching for about 4 days, I decided that I was straining to see the 50" screen from that distance. I actually replaced a 53" Sony non-HD with that first Sony, and then returned it to CC and ended up going to BB since they had better financing offers (and CC refused to match financing until I showed up with that Sony in the back of a Pickup truck, but that is a different story!).

I love the 62", and unless sit pretty close, I would give it serious thought. If you DO sit too close to this TV, though, the PQ deteriorates.

Originally posted by IronHorse
With regard to honoring the coupon, unless they want to face a class action lawsuit, I think they will have to honor the language and intent of the coupon. If you've met the conditions and bought a Mits product that is listed, and you bought it from a bona-fide Mitsubishi dealer... and can provide proof of purchase, well its pretty iron clad.Capt Mike

Don't want to get in a legal discussion here as I am not an attorney but if you are suggesting that someone who does not buy the set between Oct. 25 and Nov 16 has a legal case the "Instructions and Programs Rules" or as the lawyers like to call them the "T's&C's"(terms and conditions) are very clear in Item 7 noted in my post above. Further, when you download the "official" coupon from their web site the rules are part of the download as opposed to the truncated versions people are posting.

Not saying it's not worth a try but I wouldn't waste a lot of time or money fighting it.

On the other hand, if you have a 30 return deal, return it and repurchase the set. That will work.

just cut and paste to make it look like you purchased it between the promotion date.

For those of you who want/need couldn't read the "rules" here they are. Its the best I can do with the restrictions of this forum with regard to clarity and size (640 X 480 max).

Note that you have until January 31, 2005 to submit this rebate provided your qualifying purchase was made in the specific time-frame window

(i.e. YOU MUST PURCHASE YOUR SET BETWEEN OCTOBER 25, 2004 AND NOVEMBER 16, 2004).

Thats perfectly clear to me. Mitsubishi set the conditions, and you have to comply in order for them to honor the offer. Cut and paste what... your check or credit card receipt? They catch you and that's fraud and probably something else criminal.

Again, not being an attorney but having had plenty of contractual experience over the years... FWIW they can't really complain that you bought a set on November 1, 2004 and they pulled the offer on the 28th of October. Any sane judge or arbitrator would rule that Mitsubishi established conditions including specific purchase dates and offered this rebate to the general public so they'd have to honor it. And frankly, the nuisance (lawyers, court fees, related expenses) of defending the maybe hundred or so rebates that they get isn't worth all the bad press and ill will as opposed to just doing the right thing and honoring what they offered.

Capt Mike

I haven't seen any replies, so here is a little "bump". Has anyone turned on their TV's to see this? (Picture attached to the following post on the previous page)...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
For anyone else here that sees a bright spot on their Mitsubishi DLP, can you post here. It is a struggle trying to convince Mitsubishi that there is an issue with this since according to them, I am the only one who has brought this up so far. If it didn't affect the picture, I wouldn't care, but dark scenes and dark material are affected by this... If anyone who does see this can notify Mitsubishi, it would be helpful... thanks... Just got my 62725 today. Just noticed I have the bright spot in the exact same place as UMD Terp. Should I call for a replacement, or have they found a fix for this? Are there plenty of owners without this spot? I have a Sept build date.

Originally posted by rotty2
Just got my 62725 today. Just noticed I have the bright spot in the exact same place as UMD Terp. Should I call for a replacement, or have they found a fix for this? Are there plenty of owners without this spot? I have a Sept build date.

I had a Sept. build 62725 with the bright spot, had it replaced (for that among other reasons), and the new on (Oct. build date) also has the spot. So, a replacement does not guarantee a "fix". There is no known fix for this yet. The only thing we've (UMD_Terp et al.) have done is contact Mits, tell them you want to e-mail them pics of the problem and hope they will figure out what it is and fix it.

Originally posted by boristhedog
I had a Sept. build 62725 with the bright spot, had it replaced (for that among other reasons), and the new on (Oct. build date) also has the spot. So, a replacement does not guarantee a "fix". There is no known fix for this yet. The only thing we've (UMD_Terp et al.) have done is contact Mits, tell them you want to e-mail them pics of the problem and hope they will figure out what it is and fix it. Thanks, I was hoping that a replacement would be the "Fix". I guess you just have to be lucky, and I am certainly not.:(

Problems With ATSC Tuner


With the new software version .04 running for the past few weeks everything was great, until last night. I lost all analog and digital channels. I tried reset-unplug-power on-rescan and no channels. I did this twice and then tried unplug-reset--power on-rescan and still no channels. I don't get analog or digital. The tuner works as I get the channels in PiP, but not on the main screen.

Righ now, I'm routing my OTA channels through my Dish 6000 receiver.

Any ideas? Please help. Any suggestion would be deeply appreciated.

Originally posted by rsg_1
Problems With ATSC Tuner

With the new software version .04 running for the past few weeks everything was great, until last night. I lost all analog and digital channels. I tried reset-unplug-power on-rescan and no channels. I did this twice and then tried unplug-reset--power on-rescan and still no channels. I don't get analog or digital. The tuner works as I get the channels in PiP, but not on the main screen.

Righ now, I'm routing my OTA channels through my Dish 6000 receiver.

Any ideas? Please help. Any suggestion would be deeply appreciated.

Can you be more specific about your sw version? I believe the latest version is V26 004.03. Are you saying you have a version 004.04? If it's actually 004.02 or less, the .03 version might help you wih OTA tuner problems.

When you scan, do see any channels "added", but then they just don't show up to display them? I had that problem once, but a reset appeared to fix it. Also, when you said you get the channels in PiP....which channels? The channels you tried to scan?

Originally posted by spiff72
I haven't seen any replies, so here is a little "bump". Has anyone turned on their TV's to see this? (Picture attached to the following post on the previous page)... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198
Thanks,
Jeff Never seen this before. I have 52525 with .003 FW.

The software version I have is V26 004.03

This is the latest version available from Mits.

When I scan channels, I do NOT see any channels added, analog or digital, and I receive a message to the effect stating that the antenna is not connected. When I use PiP, I get the analog channels. As I said, I had this problem before and a reset followed by disconnect of the power (that is un-plug) usually fixed it. This time around no luck.

As far as I can tell, you are the first to report that V26.004.04 is available. Good to know!

Sorry. My bad. I DO NOT HAVE V26 004.04 IT IS AN ERROR. I have version V26 004.03. For some reason version 4 is supplanted in my brain. But I still have the problem I described.

Once again, my apologies.

Originally posted by spiff72
I haven't seen any replies, so here is a little "bump". Has anyone turned on their TV's to see this? (Picture attached to the following post on the previous page)...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4581198#post4581198

Thanks,
Jeff

Yep - It's happened to me twice. Shocked me pretty good. Luckily, changing the channel made it go away. I haven't reported it to Mits yet because I left my digital camera at my friend's house last week. Have you reported it?

Originally posted by 2left
Yep - It's happened to me twice. Shocked me pretty good. Luckily, changing the channel made it go away. I haven't reported it to Mits yet because I left my digital camera at my friend's house last week. Have you reported it?

"Candystripes" - thats a good description of it. I didn't report it, but mine was a bit more severe - changing channels didn't help, and switching devices didn't help either.

I am not sure how to report something like this...

Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
"Candystripes" - thats a good description of it. I didn't report it, but mine was a bit more severe - changing channels didn't help, and switching devices didn't help either.

I am not sure how to report something like this...

Jeff

A picture is worth a thousand words and you have a great picture of it. Perhaps call up Mits and ask for the rep's email address so you can send it to him/her?

It's actually kind of pretty, isn't it? But scary. Kind of like my Junior Prom date way back when . . .

Originally posted by 2left
A picture is worth a thousand words and you have a great picture of it. Perhaps call up Mits and ask for the rep's email address so you can send it to him/her?

It's actually kind of pretty, isn't it? But scary. Kind of like my Junior Prom date way back when . . .

LOL.

I will give them a call and see what they think.

I will let you folks know if I get anywhere.

Hey all,

I made a surprising discovery last night with a wrong keypress on the Mits remote.

I had the guide displayed on my 62525, and I was on one of the digital channels in my area that shows program info. I accidentally hit the right arrow button on the remote, and lo-and-behold, I saw the upcoming program information for the next several hours. I had no idea this feature was on the TV. Is this documented in the manual? Has anyone else noticed this?

To get back to the list of channels, just push the left arrow.

Just thought I would share...sorry if this is well-known info. I had no idea it was there, but the set top samsung tuner I had before this TV had a similar feature.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Hey all,

I made a surprising discovery last night with a wrong keypress on the Mits remote.

I had the guide displayed on my 62525, and I was on one of the digital channels in my area that shows program info. I accidentally hit the right arrow button on the remote, and lo-and-behold, I saw the upcoming program information for the next several hours. I had no idea this feature was on the TV. Is this documented in the manual? Has anyone else noticed this?

To get back to the list of channels, just push the left arrow.



I stumbled on this one, too. I can't remember if I posted anything or not...I'm thinking I didn't. Anyway, if the local providers give you much info, it could be great. The ones in my area don't do a very good job of it, unfortunately....

Randy

spiff72 - btw, the exact situation when mine last arose: I was watching an hd channel with my pc in the picture-in-picture using a vga connection. When I switched off the pc-pip and put the hd channel into full view, I got the candystripes.

Originally posted by 2left
spiff72 - btw, the exact situation when mine last arose: I was watching an hd channel with my pc in the picture-in-picture using a vga connection. When I switched off the pc-pip and put the hd channel into full view, I got the candystripes.

Interesting that you mention PC pip...

It bothers me that you can't look at the VGA input (a PC), and show a cable channel (or anything else for that matter) in a small window in the typical PIP style. I would love to be able to do this on this TV, but it doesn't seem possible. I can only get the split screen while I am looking at the PC input.

Am I missing something here?

BTW, I called Mits and emailed them that picture. We shall see if they ever get back to me with an explanation.

Thanks,
Jeff

Please excuse me for asking what can be perceived as a dumb question, but here goes:

If I connect a progressive scan DVD player to an HDTV via component cables and play a widescreen format DVD movie, will the resolution always be 480p vs. 720/1080? Any exceptions? I don't watch many DVD movies, but would like to know what I can expect.

TIA....JL

Originally posted by SRFast
Please excuse me for asking what can be perceived as a dumb question, but here goes:

If I connect a progressive scan DVD player to an HDTV via component cables and play a widescreen format DVD movie, will the resolution always be 480p vs. 720/1080? Any exceptions? I don't watch many DVD movies, but would like to know what I can expect.

TIA....JL

Yep. Current DVDs wont go over 480p. If you spend more money, you can get an upconverting DVD player, but these do a conversion to a higher resolution before they display them (over DVI or HDMI - maybe component too, not sure there).

Originally posted by SRFast
Please excuse me for asking what can be perceived as a dumb question, but here goes:

If I connect a progressive scan DVD player to an HDTV via component cables and play a widescreen format DVD movie, will the resolution always be 480p vs. 720/1080? Any exceptions? I don't watch many DVD movies, but would like to know what I can expect.

TIA....JL

I don't know if this is what you meant, but I believe the Mits upconverts the 480p signal internally and displays it at 720p. Not the same as having a 720p source signal, of course.

Originally posted by 2left
I don't know if this is what you meant, but I believe the Mits upconverts the 480p signal internally and displays it at 720p. Not the same as having a 720p source signal, of course.

How do I accomplish this? I was calibrating the 52525 with Avia and borrowed the WS "Titantic" DVD to see what it would look like. It was "480p" when the format info was displayed. BTW, I was able to change the picture format (Narrow, Standard, etc) as if was an SD transmission. I was using the built in PS DVD player on the Bose 321 Series II system. Any input is appreciated.

Regards....JL

Originally posted by SRFast
How do I accomplish this? I was calibrating the 52525 with Avia and borrowed the WS "Titantic" DVD to see what it would look like. It was "480p" when the format info was displayed. BTW, I was able to change the picture format (Narrow, Standard, etc) as if was an SD transmission. I was using the built in PS DVD player on the Bose 321 Series II system. Any input is appreciated.

Regards....JL

The TV will always display "480p" on the screen if you are watching a progressive scan DVD player. What 2left was saying is that the Mits, being a fixed pixel display with 1280x720 pixels, will ALWAYS internally convert the signal into a 720 line resolution, but this by no means implies that it is improving the picture.

I just picked up a 52525 and I've very pleased. I originally purchased a Toshiba 52MH84, but was unsatisfied with it's performace with SD (cable).
The image quality on the Mits is much better. I noticed ditering artifacts continually on the Tosh.

I'd like to remove the protective screen, but find the instructions lacking in detail. Do you just pry the sides out? How do the clips retain it.I don't want to damage anything removing it :D

I just picked up a 52525 and I've very pleased. I originally purchased a Toshiba 52MH84, but was unsatisfied with it's performace with SD (cable).
The image quality on the Mits is much better. I noticed ditering artifacts continually on the Tosh.

I'd like to remove the protective screen, but find the instructions lacking in detail. Do you just pry the sides out? How do the clips retain it.I don't want to damage anything removing it :D

Get two credit cards... and two people.

Step 1. Slide the first credit card straight into the small space between the outside of the TV and the sheild... about a foot below the top of the screen. Slide the card down until you hit a clip in the middle of the screen... this clip is your target for step 2.

Step 2. Take the second credit card and push it into the space but this time insert it on the clip that you found the top of in step 1, you'll have to press a bit to get it by the clip. This will release the clip.

Step 3. Now use the first credit card to leverage the sheild away from the TV.

Repeat this for the clips located at the bottom and top of the sheild on both sides. Then bow the center of the screen out and pull the bottom out of it's retaining clip.

You don't have to force it once the clips release.

Originally posted by BigAl
Step 2. Take the second credit card and push it into the space but this time insert it on the clip that you found the top of in step 1, you'll have to press a bit to get it by the clip. This will release the clip.

I'd identifed the clip but can't determine if the screen releases from the clip (part of the set) or the clip releases from the set (part of the screen) :D.

Originally posted by joewmaki
I'd identifed the clip but can't determine if the screen releases from the clip (part of the set) or the clip releases from the set (part of the screen) :D.

Ok, I figured it out :)

It's interesting, removing the glare screen is like going from glossy to matte finish photo paper. Something about the glossy appearance makes the blacks look deeper. I'll have to try it both ways to see which I prefer. The glare off the screen was minimal in the room I use it in anyway.

Ok, I originally posted this in the xx725 owners thread, but didn't get any responses - so I'll try it here. Go to that thread if you want to see any pics of my set-up.

Hi all,
Well, I pulled the trigger and got my 62725 from Magnolia/BestBuy about 2weeks ago. I had it delivered a week ago today, and spent until Sat night finishing pulling cables for my new speakers, setting up a temporary stand, cabling together all the new components (Harman Kardon Citation 16 amp, Denon 3805 AVR, Denon 3910 universal player, 2nd DVD/CD player, VHS player and Motorola HD STB). At 1:30 am Sunday morning it all finally came alive!!! - Absolutely Awesome!

The only issue that I have that I know of so far is that the image on the screen is tilted - ie: letter box/banners etc slope to the left about an inch. I have called for service and they will be out tomorrow. I do not have a DVE disk yet and am completely new to this technology, so maybe I could ask for your help in what else I might have the service guy look at/help with while he's here. I've only been able to watch a very limited amount in the last 2 days, so if anyone could list some of the known issues with this unit, I can ask the tech to check for them. I have read through most of this thread, but my time is very limited at the moment and many of the issues may be related to other devices et. - so any help with known issues just for this set would be very helpful while they are here tomorrow. I don't think I see any dead pixels, but without a test screen maybe I won't (I'll try the blue screen mentioned above) - should I have them dust the mirror/screen? Anything you'd have them look at/adjust if they were coming to your house tomorrow???

I had service here yesterday as well and while he was here he cleaned the mirrors and the picture seems slightly better. After 2 weeks it was very dusty inside. The tech told me they cant service much at all in this set. He saw the curviture in the test patterns (and the halo's) but said there is nothing he can do at all to adjust.

He said some sets are better than others.

Whatever.

I was at a Best buy today getting an antenna... they had a Mits 52525 that had the horizontal lines going across the picture like some others have experienced. I was there about 20 minutes and the picture never changed.

Originally posted by Ckuch9
I was at a Best buy today getting an antenna... they had a Mits 52525 that had the horizontal lines going across the picture like some others have experienced. I was there about 20 minutes and the picture never changed.

Which horizontal lines are you talking about? Did you mean the vertical lines (the candy-stripe pattern) I posted the pictured of previously?

Or is this a different issue?

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Which horizontal lines are you talking about? Did you mean the vertical lines (the candy-stripe pattern) I posted the pictured of previously?

Or is this a different issue?

Thanks,
Jeff

Yea, lines were similar in color... didn't fill the entire screen though. They randomly spaced out across the screen. You could still make out what was being played, but there were about 20 or so colored horizontal lines across the screen.

I have a sony 55WF LCD. I bought the other day.. I was planning on getting a Mits DLP too and taking back the one I liked less.. (I love the Mits PQ) after seeing that and your problem... I might just stick with the Sony.

Originally posted by Ckuch9
Yea, lines were similar in color... didn't fill the entire screen though. They randomly spaced out across the screen. You could still make out what was being played, but there were about 20 or so colored horizontal lines across the screen.

I have a sony 55WF LCD. I bought the other day.. I was planning on getting a Mits DLP too and taking back the one I liked less.. (I love the Mits PQ) after seeing that and your problem... I might just stick with the Sony.

I don't know if I would let that issue I had affect your decision. It has happened just once, and it cleared up after resetting the TV.

I think there may have been a power blip that could have caused it, but I am just guessing. I am really thinking about getting a UPS to plug it into and see if it makes any difference.

Originally posted by spiff72
I don't know if I would let that issue I had affect your decision. It has happened just once, and it cleared up after resetting the TV.

I think there may have been a power blip that could have caused it, but I am just guessing. I am really thinking about getting a UPS to plug it into and see if it makes any difference.

spiff72 - I have my Mits connected to a UPS and I still got the candystripes. btw - any word yet from Mits support on the issue?

Originally posted by 2left
spiff72 - I have my Mits connected to a UPS and I still got the candystripes. btw - any word yet from Mits support on the issue?

I did get a sort of a surprise call at work from them today. They asked if I was still having the problem, and I said that it only happened that one time and that a reset fixed it.

I asked if they got the picture, and they did. They said it looked like a barber pole, and I said it looked more like candy stripes :D

Basically they said that it looked like some sort of software issue, but that was about all they could say.

Also, thanks for the info on the UPS. Maybe it isn't all that necessary after all. I do have it plugged into a Monster Power Center...

Thanks,
Jeff

I want to do something simple, yet very different with the Net Command. I have an XM Radio receiver (the Delphi Roady) as part of my Home Theater.

Right now, it is "input 2" and the TV thinks it's a DVD player.

So, I go in to Net Command to do all of the Learning that I can. Basically, this radio only needs these basic things:

-Power on
-Channel up and down
-Enter
-Keypads (for the hundred+ channels)

Simple right? Well, the keypad part is failing in an odd way. Sometimes it works, but when it does work once, it wont quite work any more. For instance: I can key in 045-enter and get channel 45. I can key in 065-enter and get channel 65. But I can never tune in 066... the radio just freazes on the first 6. Next thing I know I can't get 45 or 65 either, but I can do other random two digit numbers... Yet I can always get it to work with the XM's remote (which only works up to 5 feet away!!)

Should I change the input to be a VCR ? Is Net Command trying to be smart and limit the control of the DVD signals, or is NC just a simple "take in and pass on" system?

The IR emitters are fine.

and if you have time: When would the AVR learned controls be used?!? I want to keep the TV speakers as an option for all input varieties. When I don't use them, I just turn the TV valume down (aint that a concept!)

my setup:
WD-52525 with XM radio. (http://www.chevelle-ss.com/Members_Pages/Mike_S_files/Temp/52525-Front.JPG)

Sounds like NC did not correctly learn a couple of the commands from your XM remote, try relearning them, make sure you point the remote at the center of the screen and test it out as soon as you learn it.

There are also some remotes that won't work with netcommand (or about any learning remote) because they use a funky termination sequence where every other keypress is terminated with an even toggle bit and the other keypresses are terminated with an odd toggle bit.

Yes NC can control your AVR and it is optional, you can use either the TV speakers or the reciever... the idea is that you hookup your avr and have NC control it, i.e. when you switch from cable to DVD the TV switches the reciever from the cbl input to the DVD input, the volume and mute buttons on the remote operate the AVR. To switch between the AVR and the TV speakers bring up the device menu, hit the audio button on the remote and switch from the TV speakers to the AVR.

I got my WD-62525 three weeks ago today. I thought it would have shipped with a more recent version of the software. I noticed it was V26.004.01. I'm seeing people with V26.004.03. What are the things that are supposed to be fixed or upgraded with this version? Are there any problems with this version I should know about? Is it worth it to upgrade to it, with my only current problem being some audio/video sync issues (not always)?

FIXED!

The supplied remote for this XM Radio is a real piece of junk, which is why I wanted to learn it into Net Command in the first place. So this time, I got a lot closer to the TV, and made sure to hold the button down a good long while. ;)

Works much better with the specific channel selection.

One thing is still odd:

With the original remote you can "browse" channels using the "channel +" button, and you don't go to that channel until you hit "enter". Well, I can only change up 1 channel, and down 1 channel. Repeated pressing of the channel button does nothing. :(

O'well, I'm happy enough.

My receiver is going to be tricky because the remote for my Pioneer VSX-D498 does not have seperate buttons for each input! Yeap. just one button for "walking" through all inputs. I'm hoping the descretes exist for this, and that a newer better remote will be reverse compatible so I can learn the functions.

for my SA80000HD DVR box, I decided to learn buttons 1-2-3 as the special A-B-C buttons. No huge loss, I guess. It's either that or buy a $100+ wonder-remote. So I'm good for the time being.

Originally posted by Ckuch9
I have a sony 55WF LCD. I bought the other day.. I was planning on getting a Mits DLP too and taking back the one I liked less.. (I love the Mits PQ) after seeing that and your problem... I might just stick with the Sony.

That's too funny. Same exact situation on my end!...except, I've never seen the prob mentioned on any Mits I've looked at. All have looked flawless, with the exception of the tilt.

I turned the TV on this morning to find this. Horizontal green stripes running through the display. Changing channels or sources did help.

Eventually pressed the system reset and fixed it. Hopefully this isn't a recurring theme!

Originally posted by SK8_MD
I turned the TV on this morning to find this. Horizontal green stripes running through the display. Changing channels or sources did help.

Eventually pressed the system reset and fixed it. Hopefully this isn't a recurring theme!

Hope you'll send a report to Mits about this even though it resolved with a reset. E-mailing them the pic would be helpful too. Sounded to me from UMD_Terps call to them that this could be a software glitch that they may be able to resolve with an update.

DC

Originally posted by SK8_MD
I turned the TV on this morning to find this. Horizontal green stripes running through the display. Changing channels or sources did help.

Eventually pressed the system reset and fixed it. Hopefully this isn't a recurring theme!

Might I ask where you got that cabinet, its seems to be an ideal fit? Was it custom? Could you post a few other pictures that show the whole thing.

Do you have the 52" or the 62"?

Thanks
Bruce

Have any of you got a definitive answer on this topic? Is the HDMI *DEFINITELY* being converted to analog (same path as the component) and then back to digital? I've looked at the schematics & believe this to be the case.

I'm in the process of acquiring all the pieces for my new setup & find this to be really disturbing as I've had this for 60 days now & am past my return period. I find the HD (via ant-1) to be amazing - but this will just tick me off if it is the case as my new DVD player & DTV receiver will both be following an all digital path until it his the freakin display.

Thoughts?

-robert

I can't wait until HALO 2 comes out tonight. I have a feeling I will be blown away by how it looks on my 62525.

I am starting to develop faint dusty looking splotches on my screen (most visible when screen is a blue sky or white background). Is anyone aware of any light engine contamination issues?

Chas.


Chas.

rmeridith,

I have the 62725 and am wondering the same.

Does the discussed analog conversion mean I am not really getting a PQ benefit from my Denon 5900?

Should I not even buy the new Denon 5910 when it arrives if I am primarily concerned with improving and getting the best PQ on the 62725?

That's what I'm guessing. I just picked up a 3910 & am wondering why at this point. The DACs in it will be used if I'm using component - but I can't see what the benefit to this HDMI is if it's not a 'truly' digital path.

Thoughts?

Originally posted by chaslum

I am starting to develop faint dusty looking splotches on my screen (most visible when screen is a blue sky or white background). Is anyone aware of any light engine contamination issues?


Chas.


It's probably just the main projection mirror attracting dust over time. It can be cleaned by removing the screen, I believe..

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
It's probably just the main projection mirror attracting dust over time. It can be cleaned by removing the screen, I believe..

Are you talking about the detachable protective screen, or something internal?


Chas.

Originally posted by chaslum
Are you talking about the detachable protective screen, or something internal?


Chas.

The entire front screen... not just the shield.

I assume that is something that an expert should do then...


CHas.

Originally posted by rmeredith
That's what I'm guessing. I just picked up a 3910 & am wondering why at this point. The DACs in it will be used if I'm using component - but I can't see what the benefit to this HDMI is if it's not a 'truly' digital path.

Thoughts?

Ok so help me out here. Let'say that the 62725 hdmi does do an analog conversion.

Then does this mean if I use component with my 5900 then the 5900 DACs will be used. But if I use HDMI on my 62725 then the 5900 DACs are not used? Does this then mean that the component picture could theoretically be better than hdmi with the 5900 DACs or the upcoming 5910 DACs?

I am not following. Any thoughts?

My understanding is this...

If you use a HDMI connection from your DVD > the TV, the DACs on the DVD player do not come into play - but they do on the TV. But, if you use a component connection from the DVD > the TV - the DACs in your DVD come in to play...

I may be totally wrong of course ;-)

Anyone have a definitive answer on this? I've emailed Mitsubishi & am awaiting a response.

-robert

Originally posted by bmartin5150
Might I ask where you got that cabinet, its seems to be an ideal fit? Was it custom? Could you post a few other pictures that show the whole thing.

Do you have the 52" or the 62"?

Thanks
Bruce

The cabinet is a Hooker cabinet I got back in 1992. It was originally designed for a 36" CRT. Attached is a before picture.

I removed the TV shelf stuff, the VCR tape storage drawer, and the pocket style doors. That gave me a width that was 3/16" larger than the 52" Mitsubishi. That's less than 1/8" on each side which is a very tight fit. I really didn't want to buy another cabinet!

And you painted the bottom gray speaker cover black! Which is what I planned to do if I got the 525. Good to see I had a good plan, looks much better imo.

SK8_MD,

What kind of paint did you use?

I bought a grill from a 725 for my 525 - looks much better. It was pricey though - about $90 shipped...

rmeridith,

I bumped an old thread I started a while ago that deals specifically with our upconversion and Mits hdmi benefit questions.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=460330

Feel free to post there also. I am hoping we can get some answers.

Originally posted by Daranman
SK8_MD,

What kind of paint did you use?

The black looks much better. I hated that grey panel and I was going to go with black speaker cloth instead of the panel but I figured I'd try spray painting it first. It turned out so well I forgot about the speaker cloth.
The paint I used was Rustoleum specialty paint for plastic, purchased from home depot.

Please reference this thread and see if you have this issue.

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467700

Originally posted by chaslum
I assume that is something that an expert should do then...


CHas.
It's actually quite simple. I had a tech come out to check on a possible dead mirror. Turned out to be q piece of plastic or something left during manufacter. There were also smudges on the rear mirror that he cleaned.
Procedure is remove the panel behind the grill that surronds the card inputs. Detach the cable that attaches to the front screen. Then just remove all the screws that hold the screen on and lift it off. Then use a static free cloth to clean the mirrors.

Hey everyone...

I am looking for a Mits DLP owner who also has a TiVo (series 2 standalone).

I have found that when I turn on my TV, or even activating the PIP/POP functions (with the TiVo as the secondary device), the TiVo seems to want to change channels. I don't understand what is causing this though...

Does anyone else experience this with their Mits/TiVo?

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff - While I dont' have Tivo, I do experience something odd in a similiar way. When I activate the PIP/POP feature for my Mits, it will also cause my SA8000HD (set top box) to toggle its viewing screen size (normal, wide, zoom). It's a progressive step thing and each press of the PIP causes the STB screen size to alter. The same thing happens when I hit the Exchange button for the TV.

Wierd, but also inconvienent. I'm trying my best to use Net Command, and this feature is something I haven't learned (yet), so I can't undo the command without using the original remote. I ahve the "Format" button on my remote for my Mist, which accomplishes the same thing.

Are you using Net Command? Or is the IR spectrum just that limitted, and two share a similiar remote control command?

So I'm looking to get a Mits DLP. The catch? I wont be buying it until April 05. Should I spend time researching the 525 series, or will Mits release a new model by then?

Originally posted by BB_Mike
Jeff - While I dont' have Tivo, I do experience something odd in a similiar way. When I activate the PIP/POP feature for my Mits, it will also cause my SA8000HD (set top box) to toggle its viewing screen size (normal, wide, zoom). It's a progressive step thing and each press of the PIP causes the STB screen size to alter. The same thing happens when I hit the Exchange button for the TV.

Wierd, but also inconvienent. I'm trying my best to use Net Command, and this feature is something I haven't learned (yet), so I can't undo the command without using the original remote. I ahve the "Format" button on my remote for my Mist, which accomplishes the same thing.

Are you using Net Command? Or is the IR spectrum just that limitted, and two share a similiar remote control command?

Yes I am using netcommand when I see the issues. I had assumed that the problem was that Netcommand was sending out an errant IR signal when the PIP/POP functions are activated - but that really does'nt make much sense.

Your suggestion was something that I hadn't thought of. When I get home tonite, I will test that theory and get up close and personal to the TiVo and point the Mits Remote right at the front (so the TV won't see the signal and won't send out any netcommand IR signals). I find it unlikely that the codes are the same like this (espcially since we are seeing stuff like this on both a TiVo and your cable box).

I will post tonite when I find out if this is the case, or if you could try this first, feel free! Just remember that the sensor for the Mits TV is inside the screen, so make sure you aren't pointing anywhere in that general direction.

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by doormat
So I'm looking to get a Mits DLP. The catch? I wont be buying it until April 05. Should I spend time researching the 525 series, or will Mits release a new model by then?

Doormat:
IMO: If you are not ready to buy, don't spend anymore time researching it. Continue to monitor the forums and ask questions to stay informed, but devote serious time researching the available TVs 4-6 weeks before you are ready to buy.

Regards....JL

Originally posted by spiff72
Hey everyone...

I am looking for a Mits DLP owner who also has a TiVo (series 2 standalone).

I have found that when I turn on my TV, or even activating the PIP/POP functions (with the TiVo as the secondary device), the TiVo seems to want to change channels. I don't understand what is causing this though...

Does anyone else experience this with their Mits/TiVo?

Thanks,
Jeff

Yes!!!! I have a Directv Tivo and it does the same thing (I've complained about this on the xx725 thread). I noticed 2 problems....#1 when bringing up PIP (with Tivo as it's device), it would always change the channel to "23", and #2 when I do an "exchange" the Tivo window will always do a "last channel"

I was sent a flash card to re-install the software and problem 1) went away, but I still see probelm #2. I am using NetCommand where I "learned" the Tivo remote. I will also experiment with the Mits remote pointing just at the Tivo to see if the PIP/POP or EXCHANGE buttons seem to effect the Tivo box.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Yes!!!! I have a Directv Tivo and it does the same thing (I've complained about this on the xx725 thread). I noticed 2 problems....#1 when bringing up PIP (with Tivo as it's device), it would always change the channel to "23", and #2 when I do an "exchange" the Tivo window will always do a "last channel"

I was sent a flash card to re-install the software and problem 1) went away, but I still see probelm #2. I am using NetCommand where I "learned" the Tivo remote. I will also experiment with the Mits remote pointing just at the Tivo to see if the PIP/POP or EXCHANGE buttons seem to effect the Tivo box.

This seems very odd to me, and should be considered to be a serious bug in the netcommand software (if that is really what is happening). There is no reason I can think of that the TV should be sending out any IR signals when switching to PIP/POP. Depending on the cause, this could probably be fixed in a firmware upgrade.

The actual buttons of the Mits Remote being the culprit is an interesting theory, too. If they actually send a signal to the TiVo box, I don't know how this could be fixed. Unless I could switch the remote address of the TiVo from "1" to "2", and see if that makes any difference.

I will experiment tonight and post my results.

Something else I will try tonight is to watch the Netcommand IR emmitters with a video camera and see if they flash at all during PIP/POP operations. I have found that this can help to show whether a remote control is transmitting anything.

Thanks again,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
This seems very odd to me, and should be considered to be a serious bug in the netcommand software (if that is really what is happening). There is no reason I can think of that the TV should be sending out any IR signals when switching to PIP/POP. Depending on the cause, this could probably be fixed in a firmware upgrade.

The actual buttons of the Mits Remote being the culprit is an interesting theory, too. If they actually send a signal to the TiVo box, I don't know how this could be fixed. Unless I could switch the remote address of the TiVo from "1" to "2", and see if that makes any difference.

I will experiment tonight and post my results.

Something else I will try tonight is to watch the Netcommand IR emmitters with a video camera and see if they flash at all during PIP/POP operations. I have found that this can help to show whether a remote control is transmitting anything.

Thanks again,
Jeff

Yeah....I have a little device that will blink an LED when it receives an IR signal from a remote. I'll try that too to see if PIP/POP or EXCHANGE are passed through the IR emitters. I'm guessing they are...

Originally posted by boristhedog
Yeah....I have a little device that will blink an LED when it receives an IR signal from a remote. I'll try that too to see if PIP/POP or EXCHANGE are passed through the IR emitters. I'm guessing they are...

For what it's worth- I have seen the same on my 52725 r.003 with the built in tuner as the PIP- 22 or 23 (or 20). I also have a Dish 811 and may have seen it there when it's used as the PIP source- I don't recall. I think the Dish 811 may use RF for the channel changing, not IR, so I am not sure this helps. I will try some testing over the weekend.

Man- I just thought I was going nuts.

Originally posted by GizmoSprocket
For what it's worth- I have seen the same on my 52725 r.003 with the built in tuner as the PIP- 22 or 23 (or 20). I also have a Dish 811 and may have seen it there when it's used as the PIP source- I don't recall. I think the Dish 811 may use RF for the channel changing, not IR, so I am not sure this helps. I will try some testing over the weekend.

Man- I just thought I was going nuts.

I guess I am glad that I am not the only one!

I have a dish 811 as well, but I don't have any of the commands set up in netcommand, so I just use the Dish remote...

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Hey everyone...

I am looking for a Mits DLP owner who also has a TiVo (series 2 standalone).

I have found that when I turn on my TV, or even activating the PIP/POP functions (with the TiVo as the secondary device), the TiVo seems to want to change channels. I don't understand what is causing this though...

Does anyone else experience this with their Mits/TiVo?

Thanks,
Jeff

I have a Series one and a Mits DLP connected and haven't seen this problem, but I am using the Tivo remote, not the Mits remote, to turn the TV on and off. The Tivo remote is also used to change channels on the SA 3250 HD STB. Perhaps shifting some of your control to the Tivo remote will solve your problem. I can watch the firewire input in the PIP and the Tivo's channel guide etc in the secondary window of the same vertical size.

FWH

Originally posted by spiff72
I will give them a call and see what they think.

I will let you folks know if I get anywhere.

spiff72 - Ever get an answer from tech support on the candystripes issue?

Originally posted by 2left
spiff72 - Ever get an answer from tech support on the candystripes issue?

No not really...basically just said it looked like a software issue. It hasn't happened since.

Originally posted by spiff72
This seems very odd to me, and should be considered to be a serious bug in the netcommand software (if that is really what is happening). There is no reason I can think of that the TV should be sending out any IR signals when switching to PIP/POP. Depending on the cause, this could probably be fixed in a firmware upgrade.

The actual buttons of the Mits Remote being the culprit is an interesting theory, too. If they actually send a signal to the TiVo box, I don't know how this could be fixed. Unless I could switch the remote address of the TiVo from "1" to "2", and see if that makes any difference.

I will experiment tonight and post my results.

Something else I will try tonight is to watch the Netcommand IR emmitters with a video camera and see if they flash at all during PIP/POP operations. I have found that this can help to show whether a remote control is transmitting anything.

Thanks again,
Jeff

Well here is an update...

I tried the remote right in front of the TiVo, and I got nothing, so it is safe to rule out that possibility.

Then I watched the IR emitter in front of the TiVo for activity while I did the PIP/POP stuff, and sure enough, it is transmitting (not really a surprise). As I was fiddling around, I was trying to get a sense for what command was actually being sent, and it looks like it is the channel up/down. I even got it into a loop where the TiVo was my secondary PIP/POP source, and it was the one where there are multiple windows (either 3 or 9) of that source. It was actually cycling the channels one at a time just like it does with the internal tuner when it is the second PIP/POP source.

I still think this is unintended behavior for most users. I certainly don't want to have my Tivo switch to a different channel whenever I activate PIP/POP. I called Mits and complained, and I was told I would need to schedule a service call. I said I would think about it, since I can't take time off from work right now. The person I spoke with was "Guy", if I caught the name correctly.

I think the tech team over there needs to set up a TiVo (or any other device from "Other" in the NetCommand menu), and try to duplicate this behavior. I am absolutely sure that this is a "feature" of the firmware, and it will work with any device that has up/down channel functionality (cable boxes/etc). I think we should all tell them that this is not a desirable feature, and it just causes potential problems.

If you want to give Mits a call too, and complain about this issue, maybe we can get them to do something about it. I didn't think to try to explain the fact that it proabably isn't TiVo-specific.

The number is 949-830-8364.

Good luck!

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
Well here is an update...

I tried the remote right in front of the TiVo, and I got nothing, so it is safe to rule out that possibility.

Then I watched the IR emitter in front of the TiVo for activity while I did the PIP/POP stuff, and sure enough, it is transmitting (not really a surprise). As I was fiddling around, I was trying to get a sense for what command was actually being sent, and it looks like it is the channel up/down. I even got it into a loop where the TiVo was my secondary PIP/POP source, and it was the one where there are multiple windows (either 3 or 9) of that source. It was actually cycling the channels one at a time just like it does with the internal tuner when it is the second PIP/POP source.

I still think this is unintended behavior for most users. I certainly don't want to have my Tivo switch to a different channel whenever I activate PIP/POP. I called Mits and complained, and I was told I would need to schedule a service call. I said I would think about it, since I can't take time off from work right now. The person I spoke with was "Guy", if I caught the name correctly.

I think the tech team over there needs to set up a TiVo (or any other device from "Other" in the NetCommand menu), and try to duplicate this behavior. I am absolutely sure that this is a "feature" of the firmware, and it will work with any device that has up/down channel functionality (cable boxes/etc). I think we should all tell them that this is not a desirable feature, and it just causes potential problems.

If you want to give Mits a call too, and complain about this issue, maybe we can get them to do something about it. I didn't think to try to explain the fact that it proabably isn't TiVo-specific.

The number is 949-830-8364.

Good luck!

Thanks,
Jeff

I just confirmed this as well. My "device" that lights an LED when getting an IR signal fickers twice when I hit the exchange button (using single PIP window mode). This signal appears to be the "enter/last" for my Tivo box. Just pushing the PIP button did not seem to relay a signal (and neither should the "exhange" button!).

I believe the channel change when there are 3/9 windows is "normal" behavior. Actually kinda cool except when it's a sattelite box, the dealy is not long enough to tune in the picture before it switches to the next box, so I end up with multiple black screens with an occasional frozen picture. I really don't user the 3/9 mode ever so that doesn't bother me. I don't think they will remove this feature. It would be nice if you could select multiple devices in this mode or if I could configure the delay between channel changes.

I'm expecting a call from "David" who will call to check on my latest sw install (he's called me before so I expect him to again). I will tell him about the Tivo conflict specifically, but they really need to just NOT relay the signal from the "exchange" button and that would fix it for all brands.

What's the deal with these trivial, obvious problems? I mean, the NetCommand software has been around for years right? Maybe this is a port to a new processor or something, but man it seems like these problems should have been worked out a long time ago.

At least I'm not going crazy....

Originally posted by boristhedog
I just confirmed this as well. My "device" that lights an LED when getting an IR signal fickers twice when I hit the exchange button (using single PIP window mode). This signal appears to be the "enter/last" for my Tivo box. Just pushing the PIP button did not seem to relay a signal (and neither should the "exhange" button!).

I believe the channel change when there are 3/9 windows is "normal" behavior. Actually kinda cool except when it's a sattelite box, the dealy is not long enough to tune in the picture before it switches to the next box, so I end up with multiple black screens with an occasional frozen picture. I really don't user the 3/9 mode ever so that doesn't bother me. I don't think they will remove this feature. It would be nice if you could select multiple devices in this mode or if I could configure the delay between channel changes.

I'm expecting a call from "David" who will call to check on my latest sw install (he's called me before so I expect him to again). I will tell him about the Tivo conflict specifically, but they really need to just NOT relay the signal from the "exchange" button and that would fix it for all brands.

What's the deal with these trivial, obvious problems? I mean, the NetCommand software has been around for years right? Maybe this is a port to a new processor or something, but man it seems like these problems should have been worked out a long time ago.

At least I'm not going crazy....

Interesting...

When I have another input (antenna for example) active, and the TiVo is the last device I had set as the PIP device, hitting the PIP/POP button changes channels for me (as the TV shows the side by side picture)...

I also get a similar effect from the exchange button.

Thanks,
Jeff

OK, so in the midst of all the issues posted here, I'd like to point out one nice surprise..
NO CLAY FACES.
Mits does seem to have this widespread DLP issue covered.

I would just add to HtBruce's comment that there are no clay faces provided you properly adust your color settings.

On my 52725, if I turn up some of the individual Perfect Color settings that have worked well for others (and are posted in various places in this and the 52725 thread), I get terrible clay faces. So the same color settings that work well for most may not work well for you. Don't assume it is a problem for your set, you just may need different color settings on your particular unit.

It just dawned on me that all the times I've looked at the 525's I haven't noticed the place to change the picture modes. Not wide, wide zoom, and all that, but Warm, Cool and Neutral.

I'm sure the set has it, but where is it accessed? Does it also have the different settings for the pic - a-la the Sony - like Vivid, Standard and Pro? When playing, I've always accessed the video settings and have only seen the usuals....contrast, tint, color, etc. I saw the Perfect Color thing once when a BB guy accessed it, but didn't pay attention to what else was in that menu.

domer87...it's all in the video setttings. Perfect Color is accessed through the set-up menu.

Originally posted by domer67
It just dawned on me that all the times I've looked at the 525's I haven't noticed the place to change the picture modes. Not wide, wide zoom, and all that, but Warm, Cool and Neutral.

I'm sure the set has it, but where is it accessed? Does it also have the different settings for the pic - a-la the Sony - like Vivid, Standard and Pro? When playing, I've always accessed the video settings and have only seen the usuals....contrast, tint, color, etc. I saw the Perfect Color thing once when a BB guy accessed it, but didn't pay attention to what else was in that menu.

If you are referring to the "Color Temp", you change it using the VIDEO button on the remote. The FORMAT button controls the picture size.

Hope this helps....JL

Originally posted by domer67
It just dawned on me that all the times I've looked at the 525's I haven't noticed the place to change the picture modes. Not wide, wide zoom, and all that, but Warm, Cool and Neutral.

I'm sure the set has it, but where is it accessed? Does it also have the different settings for the pic - a-la the Sony - like Vivid, Standard and Pro? When playing, I've always accessed the video settings and have only seen the usuals....contrast, tint, color, etc. I saw the Perfect Color thing once when a BB guy accessed it, but didn't pay attention to what else was in that menu.

If you are referring to the "Color Temp", you change it using the VIDEO button on the remote. The FORMAT button controls the picture size.

Hope this helps....JL

Yeah, thanks for the info. I'll go back to the store and play some more.

I have a quick question... I haven't had the time to check this yet - so I thought I would ask.

If I hook up a Denon 2910 DVD player to one of these sets via the HDMI input - and then connect a digital coax from the TV to the receiver - will I have sound through this coax connection when a DVD is played? I do right now when I'm watching HD content...

Thoughts?

Originally posted by rmeredith
I have a quick question... I haven't had the time to check this yet - so I thought I would ask.

If I hook up a Denon 2910 DVD player to one of these sets via the HDMI input - and then connect a digital coax from the TV to the receiver - will I have sound through this coax connection when a DVD is played? I do right now when I'm watching HD content...

Thoughts?

It'd have to work that way, based solely on the fact that there is no other purpose for the Digital Audio coaxial connetor. I sat there an pondered that when I first hooked up the set. "Why on earth is there a digital coax on my TV?" I thought maybe the TV could act as a center channel, but then I got to thinking how one would set up the timing of such a system. Then I started to drink heavily. :D

Let us know how it works out, or if you need to enable anything during the process. I assume it's just a pass-through of the digital audio, and that DTS wont give it any problems

Originally posted by BB_Mike
It'd have to work that way, based solely on the fact that there is no other purpose for the Digital Audio coaxial connetor. I sat there an pondered that when I first hooked up the set. "Why on earth is there a digital coax on my TV?" I thought maybe the TV could act as a center channel, but then I got to thinking how one would set up the timing of such a system. Then I started to drink heavily. :D

Let us know how it works out, or if you need to enable anything during the process. I assume it's just a pass-through of the digital audio, and that DTS wont give it any problems

Actually, there is a purpose for the Digital Coax Output on the TV. It has an internal digital tuner (both Cable and OTA), so this output lets you send the digital audio to your amp.

Works quite nicely for that, I might add... :D

I am curious whether it is capable of passing the audio from the HDMI input, though. It seems like obvious functionality...

Thanks,
Jeff

Is anybody STILL having reset issues with the 525???? Seems like every now and then the TV will come up with replace lamp message at boot. No power event has occured, and the TV is hooked to UPS.

I am still waiting for a tech to come look at my LOVELY smudges within the images displayed on the upper right 1/3 of screen. Seems to be getting worse. Anybody else seeing these smudges get darker over time, or is it just me????

(I still think its dust collecting on some type of residue on a mirror, but Im no TV expert.....just networks)

Originally posted by technik
Is anybody STILL having reset issues with the 525???? Seems like every now and then the TV will come up with replace lamp message at boot. No power event has occured, and the TV is hooked to UPS.


I've seen the same on my 725...I've wondered about it, but just answered no to the question. I couldn't remember if it asked that question after a reset or not...

-Randy

Finally got everything hooked up, and I think I almost got it right too. I'm in dire need of a better DVD player though and would like to go component but from what I've read all the players that do component have some serious issues. Is there one I'm missing? I'd like to keep it under $300. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Picked up my SA 3250HD STB with active firewire port today from TWC. I now have the SA3250 -> Mits 2000HD DVCR -> Mits 52525 daisy chained by firewire and all seems to work well so far. The 3250 is merely being used to archive to DVHS until my recording over CableCard problem is fixed. I might even keep the 3250 in the end as it allows me to record in HD on one channel (3250) while viewing HD on another (CC). We'll see. The only thing that really sucks is that the video settings in the Mits are lost over firewire inputs everytime you switch away from them. This really needs to be fixed.

With the no payments until 2007 that Mitsu is offering, I'm thinking of picking up the 52525. Any downfalls compared to the other DLPs other than the smudges that I'm reading. I love the picture.

I believe this post will fall deeply back with more attention going towards the XX725 thread.

Anywho.

Here is a picture of my setup:

Mitsubishi 52" DLP, 52525 (http://www.chevelle-ss.com/Members_Pages/Mike_S_files/Temp/SLK_in_HD.JPG)

very nice

I have a Dishnet 811 receiver on order. Currently I'm running my dvd, 2 vcr's and 2 sat dishes thru my Denon AVR. With the 811 I think I'll be able to run everything thru the Mitsu and have the mitsu just feed the audio to the Denon. Has anyone installed the 811 and what's the best way to do it?

Originally posted by dwarren2
I have a Dishnet 811 receiver on order. Currently I'm running my dvd, 2 vcr's and 2 sat dishes thru my Denon AVR. With the 811 I think I'll be able to run everything thru the Mitsu and have the mitsu just feed the audio to the Denon. Has anyone installed the 811 and what's the best way to do it?

My 811 is connected to one of the component video inputs, along with an analog audio feed (red/white) to the TV's corresponding audio inputs. In addition, I run the 811's digital optical audio out to my AV receiver, and I set up netcommand to use that input on the receiver when I switch the audio device from TV to AVR.

Pretty straightforward if you have a free optical input on your AVR (or Coax - I can't remember if the 811 has coax audio out - but I think it does).

Originally posted by fsquid
With the no payments until 2007 that Mitsu is offering, I'm thinking of picking up the 52525. Any downfalls compared to the other DLPs other than the smudges that I'm reading. I love the picture.

Where did you find this promotion at?

Originally posted by terabeast
Where did you find this promotion at?

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/promotions/threediamond

Thru Nov 29

anyone hear anything more on the replacement frame that was remored to be coming out for those who remove the screen and want to cover up the sides??

Anyone experience a "freeze" issue, where the remote seems to stop working for 30 seconds or so (seems like an eternety) and then just magically starts working again? I have a feeling the problem is with the TV and not the remote. It seems to always snap out of it, though.

Originally posted by neoikon
Anyone experience a "freeze" issue, where the remote seems to stop working for 30 seconds or so (seems like an eternety) and then just magically starts working again? I have a feeling the problem is with the TV and not the remote. It seems to always snap out of it, though.

Yes.
For me it occurs either when I am using the remote for controlling other things (not Net command), or when I am using the PIP/POP feature like a mad man.

Yep, had the same "freeze" a couple times when I first got the set. Hasn't happened lately. I didn't do anything to correct it, it just hasn't done it.

Originally posted by BB_Mike
Yes.
For me it occurs either when I am using the remote for controlling other things (not Net command), or when I am using the PIP/POP feature like a mad man.

Yes....using PIP/POP is always an adventure. I love the feature, but it sucks when the whole TV locks up during an "exchange".

Any of you know if the anti-glare screen from a 825 will work on a 525? I've got 52525 & this glare is really starting to get to me. No shield is not an option as I have a playful pup that likes to whip his toys around.

Any ideas on price (if it will work?).

-rob

I believe the 825 shield will fit....exact measurements as my 62-525 shield....Only place I knew that had it was Mitsubishii and Best Buy. Things is...BB's site is now saying all the shields (525,725,and 825) have been disco'd by manufacturer....

check it out

http://bestbuy.partsearch.com/Product.asp?InventoryID=14487800&SubstitutePart=0&ModelManufacturer=Mitsubishi&ModelNumber=WD-62825&ModelID=422294&OrgPartNum=&OrgPartMfg=Mitsubishi


curious.......

Originally posted by rmeredith
Any of you know if the anti-glare screen from a 825 will work on a 525? I've got 52525 & this glare is really starting to get to me. No shield is not an option as I have a playful pup that likes to whip his toys around.

Any ideas on price (if it will work?).

-rob

Maybe changing the light source location will help you out? check out my thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=471042

Scroll down to see the pictures I posted of a light behind my 52525 set. I arranged my TV's position such that relfection would be minimal at best. I thought of the light like a pool-table (or use geometry if your a geek), just visualize where the relfection from windows will be, and don't put it there.

I can't really "rearrange" the TV as it is on the only wall that it can be in our living room. The problem is, the TV is on the south wall and there is a BIG window on the north wall. And, we sit w/ our backs against the window. So, when it's bright out (anytime during the day) - it looks like a mirror...

Originally posted by rmeredith
I can't really "rearrange" the TV as it is on the only wall that it can be in our living room. The problem is, the TV is on the south wall and there is a BIG window on the north wall. And, we sit w/ our backs against the window. So, when it's bright out (anytime during the day) - it looks like a mirror...

I have a 52725. Ours sits opposite a sliding glass door that faces east. When it's bright out we have to close the verticle blinds. Have you looked into room darkening shades or curtains for the windows?

Originally posted by boristhedog
Yes....using PIP/POP is always an adventure. I love the feature, but it sucks when the whole TV locks up during an "exchange".

My remote locks up too, but it hasn't happened during an exchange. Which, btw, I wanted to ask about...My PIP/POP works fine but when I hit exchange it doesn't do the exchange but instead gives me an error message. Something like, "no analog picture in the PIP/POP". My HD signal is through Comcast CableCARD and when I've tried exchange I am watching one HD show and one SD. The exchange has never worked. Any body else have this problem?

Originally posted by tsiopni
My remote locks up too, but it hasn't happened during an exchange. Which, btw, I wanted to ask about...My PIP/POP works fine but when I hit exchange it doesn't do the exchange but instead gives me an error message. Something like, "no analog picture in the PIP/POP". My HD signal is through Comcast CableCARD and when I've tried exchange I am watching one HD show and one SD. The exchange has never worked. Any body else have this problem?

Yes the secondary picture (the one on the right) cannot be a DIGITAL source (that is, a digital channel on cable or via an OTA). The primary one can be digital. The secondary one CAN be a component video HD signal though. I think that the secondary picture an also me an HDMI input.

Jeff

Was wondering if you guys could help my decision making since this new mitsu program have approved me for credit, and no payments till 2007.

How does the 52725 fare as a 90% gaming monitor, via xbox or computer? Compared to an lcd rptv that is.

I plan on sitting back about 10 feet, and was wondering how sharp text is, gaming, edges with or without anti-aliasing, etc.

Dallas_Jose's setup with his panasonic lcd had me sold on the panny, but I can't afford it straight out right now, but the no payment on the mitsu would be great. Thanks.

Balael

Originally posted by spiff72
Yes the secondary picture (the one on the right) cannot be a DIGITAL source (that is, a digital channel on cable or via an OTA). The primary one can be digital. The secondary one CAN be a component video HD signal though. I think that the secondary picture an also me an HDMI input.

Jeff

I don't get this. Why can a digital HD signal over HDMI be in the secondary window, but an HD or digital signal from the ANT1 cannot? Maybe beacuse of the whole D-A A-D thing? BTW, I think most of the PIP/POP problems arrise from having an HD channel in one of the windows.

Also, a Mits rep. called me last night (twice) to get more details on the Tivo/Netcommand IR signal conflict...so it sounds like they are working on it.

Originally posted by boristhedog
I don't get this. Why can a digital HD signal over HDMI be in the secondary window, but an HD or digital signal from the ANT1 cannot? Maybe beacuse of the whole D-A A-D thing? BTW, I think most of the PIP/POP problems arrise from having an HD channel in one of the windows.

Also, a Mits rep. called me last night (twice) to get more details on the Tivo/Netcommand IR signal conflict...so it sounds like they are working on it.

It doesn't make sense to me either - the internal tuners, if I recall correctly, are a pure digital path through the set. But I still can't see why you couldn't have an analog channel as primary and a digital one as secondary. To me this is a minor issue, though.

I have more concern over the TiVo thing, personally. I am glad that they are following up with you. Can I ask what they wanted to know? Did they ask to set up a service call? If you hear anything else, please share! This is one of the only issues I have to complain about on this TV!

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally posted by spiff72
It doesn't make sense to me either - the internal tuners, if I recall correctly, are a pure digital path through the set. But I still can't see why you couldn't have an analog channel as primary and a digital one as secondary. To me this is a minor issue, though.

I have more concern over the TiVo thing, personally. I am glad that they are following up with you. Can I ask what they wanted to know? Did they ask to set up a service call? If you hear anything else, please share! This is one of the only issues I have to complain about on this TV!

Thanks,
Jeff

Minor issue for me too since I don't even use the internal tuner. My main viewing devices are my HD Sat. rcvr (which includes an OTA tuner) and the Tivo sat. rcvr.

They wanted more exact details on how to reproduce the problem as well as the model number on my Tivo box (Hughes SD-DVR40). No service call needed, IMO this is purely a software problem.

Originally posted by boristhedog
Minor issue for me too since I don't even use the internal tuner. My main viewing devices are my HD Sat. rcvr (which includes an OTA tuner) and the Tivo sat. rcvr.

They wanted more exact details on how to reproduce the problem as well as the model number on my Tivo box (Hughes SD-DVR40). No service call needed, IMO this is purely a software problem.

It sounds like the person that you were speaking with had a much better understanding of the TV's function than the person I spoke with when I called last week. Either that, or you are better at explaining the problem to them than I am! :D

I hope they can get to the bottom of it and issue a firmware fix.

Thanks,
Jeff

I posted a question a few days back about the digital coax connection on the back of these sets. I wanted to report back my findings...

I connected a Denon 2910 to the 525 via HDMI. Then, used a digital coax connection back to the receiver. This DOES NOT work. It will only pass audio from the Ant connections.

-robert

Originally posted by balael
How does the 52725 fare as a 90% gaming monitor, via xbox or computer? Compared to an lcd rptv that is.
l

My room is 11 wide by 16 long, and that means I am about 10-12 feet back when I sit on my couch. No problems with Xbox on 52725 other than rainbow effect, but I am sensative to it (it doens't give me headaches and it doesn't bother or hurt me). I see it in 3-chip movie theaters too... it's not a big deal and seems to have a lot to do with my fatigue level- I suspect it's related to lazy eye which I had as a kid. What I am saying is that unless you are Rainbow sensative, there are few drawbacks to the Mits.

I am quite happy with mine- the 480P is crisper than it was on my Sony 40" Direct-view CRD (40XBR800). Any of the Team Ninja games including DoA:Ultimate or Ninja Gaiden look amazing. The 720P is absolutely crisp on things like the later THPS games and the last X-Men game. The temporal refresh has not caused me any problems- somehting most microdisplays tend to have (LCD and, to a degree, DLP updates pixels slower than CRT in some cases- this may cause motion streaks or blur or some other artifacts). I have not seen too much of this.

For VGA usage, I suggest using powerstrip- somebody on another thread posted settings for the Mits and I found these to be very good- altough I can't recall the thread or link right now.

There has been talk of Halo problems on some 480P displays (including wide-screen displays). I have not seen these on my 52725- aparantly it is a clipping of the HUD.

Regardless, there is a fix on XBox Live for this problem now, but I want to to a before/after comparison this weekend.

Some talk about the quality of HD cables has come up on a similar thread before. The consensus is that the Monster cables are pricy and work well, and the Microsoft HD Kid works well (I use these on the Sony and the Mits). Some other third party HD cables are not very good, however- so be aware.

Samsung's hot new 50-inch DLP set, Mitsubishi's 52-inch DLP debut, and JVC's LCoS-based 52-inch set face off in PC World HDTV lab tests.

From PC World:

http://www.pcworld.com/digitalworld/article/0,aid,118386,00.asp

I just signed the papers for a 52525. Will be delivered this afternoon!

Originally posted by spiff72
It doesn't make sense to me either - the internal tuners, if I recall correctly, are a pure digital path through the set. But I still can't see why you couldn't have an analog channel as primary and a digital one as secondary. To me this is a minor issue, though.

I don't understand why when I have a digital channel in the main window and an "analog" in the PIP/POP window I can't exchange the pictures. Is it because I only have one coax going into the TV and that is going through the CableCARD? Does that make all my channels "digital" as far as the TV is concerned? I know it doesn't make the analog channels look any better, but maybe the TV can't exchange them because they are coming from the same source? This seems to be the only logical explanation, but if it can display both channels at once, why can't it swap them!?

Also, is it possible to change the audio to the channel in the PIP/POP? I had a friend over and they said their Sony could do it. If the Mits can do it, I'm not sure of the keys to push.

Originally posted by boristhedog
I don't get this. Why can a digital HD signal over HDMI be in the secondary window, but an HD or digital signal from the ANT1 cannot? Maybe beacuse of the whole D-A A-D thing? BTW, I think most of the PIP/POP problems arrise from having an HD channel in one of the windows.


I thought it was because the second tuer is not a digital tuner. The HD signal over HDMI has already been processed by the external STB.

Another confusing question is why can't I have an analog picture in the main split screen, and another analog channel in the POP? I can, however, have two analog channels if instead of split screen POP, I use either PIP or one of the "multi-screen" POP modes. The Mits rep told me its because two analog channels are considered the same "source," but a digital channel and an analog channel are considered different sources, even though I only have a single cable connected into ANT1. Seems like an oddball limitation of POP use to me.

2left,

Are you using CableCard on ANT1? I was not able to see "analog" channels in the POP, while having a analog on the main screen, however if I had a "digital" channel in the main screen, I could get analog on the POP. ( I could tune the analog channels in the PIP or multiscreen POPs)

However, if I don't have the CableCard inserted, I am able to see analog on both sides of the the POP. This all happened to me after I upgraded to the new .03 firmware.

anyone know where I can find some nice settings for the 52525? THANKS

Settings for color, brightness, etc., are going to vary from room to room, and even from channel to channel. What works for one person may or may not work for others. Myself, I have pretty much all the adjustments set to the midrange and am very happy with overall performance, but I'm in a very dark room (basement) with limited ambient light.

I'm in a room with two windows behind the set, no glare really. First day with the set and SD looks a lot better than I thought it would. Watched CSI in HD last night and that was incredible. I'm sure the Iron Bowl today on CBS will look awesome!

Originally posted by Daranman
2left,

Are you using CableCard on ANT1? I was not able to see "analog" channels in the POP, while having a analog on the main screen, however if I had a "digital" channel in the main screen, I could get analog on the POP. ( I could tune the analog channels in the PIP or multiscreen POPs)

However, if I don't have the CableCard inserted, I am able to see analog on both sides of the the POP. This all happened to me after I upgraded to the new .03 firmware.

Yes - I'm using CableCard on ANT1 and have the .03 firmware. Now I recall that the Mits rep did say that the CableCard is considered a "device," and you can't have the same device in both sides of a split screen POP. I told him that if that's true, why can I have digital on the main tuner and analog on the second. He said that's just the way it works. I was skeptical, but I guess you confirmed for me that it happens to everyone.

I just purchased the 725 at a local retailer.... Whats the difference from the 525? Is one better than the other or did they just change the style/model year? Seeing people buying the 525 makes me wonder if I bought the right one!

Key differences are that the 725 has the less reflective screen, and has the black trim cover vs. the silver plastic trim cover.

OK, here's an interesting issue. When I turn off my TV it turns off my receiver, waits a few seconds, then turns on the receiver and the DVD player!!

I have a 62525 and have been trying to take full advantage of NetCommand and the universal remote. I'll caveat this with the fact that I'm getting a new Denon 3805 receiver and 3910 DVD player in a couple weeks, but for now I'm working with an old Onkyo receiver and a Toshiba DVD player.

Originally set it up to control my receiver and that seemed to work fine except for auto-switching from Video 1 to Video 2 when switching from cable to DVD. That seems to work now. However, none of the DVD controls work when I use the slider on the remote to select "DVD". Is there an additional step I missed to associate the "DVD" position on the slider with the learning I did using NetCommand? The receiver did not require an extra step and it will power and and off when I have it selected on the slider. No response from the DVD player except the on-screen play, stop, pause, etc. and the weird auto power on after I shut off the TV! Anyone experience anything like this? Any ideas how to resolve? Thanks!

Originally posted by tsiopni
OK, here's an interesting issue. When I turn off my TV it turns off my receiver, waits a few seconds, then turns on the receiver and the DVD player!!

I have a 62525 and have been trying to take full advantage of NetCommand and the universal remote. I'll caveat this with the fact that I'm getting a new Denon 3805 receiver and 3910 DVD player in a couple weeks, but for now I'm working with an old Onkyo receiver and a Toshiba DVD player.

Originally set it up to control my receiver and that seemed to work fine except for auto-switching from Video 1 to Video 2 when switching from cable to DVD. That seems to work now. However, none of the DVD controls work when I use the slider on the remote to select "DVD". Is there an additional step I missed to associate the "DVD" position on the slider with the learning I did using NetCommand? The receiver did not require an extra step and it will power and and off when I have it selected on the slider. No response from the DVD player except the on-screen play, stop, pause, etc. and the weird auto power on after I shut off the TV! Anyone experience anything like this? Any ideas how to resolve? Thanks!

I haven't played with NetCommand yet, but my understanding is that you leave the remote slider in the TV position for all things that you intend to do with NetCommand. I believe you can program your DVD player commands into the remote, too, but if you are using NetCommand you must send the commands to the TV. Somebody please correct me if I wrong on that...

Good luck,
Randy

Randy is correct. The TV comes with a pre-programmed universal remote as well as netcommand. If you use netcommand the TV learns the remote control codes and you leave the remote set to the TV device.

Check out this post for more info on NC setup:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4170334&highlight=netcommand#post4170334

Yes,

The Remote must be on "TV" for the NC to work, and the stuff you teach to NC is learned by the TV, not by the remote.

To use the other slider positions, there are instructions on the back of the remote (IIRC) that list various codes to enter for different brands of AVR, DVD, etc. There may be a more complete list in the manual too, but I don't recall. So the remote itself is just preprogrammed, as BigAl said, and it will only perorm these predetermined functions if you set it for other components.

Thanks,
Jeff

Yes,

The Remote must be on "TV" for the NC to work, and the stuff you teach to NC is learned by the TV, not by the remote.

To use the other slider positions, there are instructions on the back of the remote (IIRC) that list various codes to enter for different brands of AVR, DVD, etc. There may be a more complete list in the manual too, but I don't recall. So the remote itself is just preprogrammed, as BigAl said, and it will only perorm these predetermined functions if you set it for other components.

Thanks,
Jeff

Yup....leave the slider under TV....all devices learned in NC will b e controled when you tune to that device. If the slider is ANY OTHER position it will control like any other UNIVERSAL remote would after you entered the codes on the back.

Sometimes when using the remote in NC, it is better to learn the device button fuctions manually then to just use the defaults given for the manufacturer within the TV setup.

Just posted some pics of the screen removed off of my 62-525...not the glare shield, the SCREEN... Tech had to come clean my internal mirrors, When he left, I did my own cleaning and tooke these pics posted here....

post... (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4704031#post4704031)

Originally posted by tbone526
Rainbow effecit is a symptom of DLP's in general, not just the Mitsu. Either you see it or you don't. Fortunately, I don't, so it's not an issue for me either.
In two months of auditioning, I never saw rainbows. The one time I thought I did last month it wasn't rainbows from the TV, but from the video, which showed "rainbowing" in a water geyser scene (same for the plasmas and LCD RPTVs on the same feed I noticed days later).

Despite concerns for the reflective "anti-reflection" screen, we were about ready to commit to the 52725. Then, last night during my 3rd audition of this TV watching POTC, I saw them. Three separate times within one minute. I couldn't look at the TV the rest of the evening.

This is just killing me that I now can see the rainbows, as the 52725 is a very good looking TV. My entire family loves the color saturation and accuracy, thinks that the black and shadow detail is the best of any DLP and LCD RPTV we have seen (right there with the Samsung 5085), and I appreciate that there is only a small amount of geometry issues with the side bars (4:3) and top/bottom bars (2.35:1), other than the tilt (which can be corrected).

For those Mits DLP owners who have had theirs awhile and have seen the rainbows, does it get worse, stay about the same, or have you been able to train yourself to not look for them?

Michael

I saw rainbows a little when I first got the 62-525.....Wife or son didnt see em. I now have had it about 3 months, and couldnt tell you the last time I saw one...but thats just me.

Originally posted by technik
I saw rainbows a little when I first got the 62-525.....Wife or son didnt see em. I now have had it about 3 months, and couldnt tell you the last time I saw one...but thats just me.
Thanks for the response. I found the following poll about rainbows (there are probably more in the archive), so I won't rehash what's already been discussed.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=442515

Michael

I see rainbows about as often as I did when I first got the 62525. I see them fairly frequently, but I just don't allow them to bother me. I know they are a part of the technology at this time, and that I am "special" for having such amazing vision and brainpower to see them when others can't. :D (Insert Ralphie Wiggum from the Simpson's saying "I'm Special!")

Jeff

i have been looking at the mitz & the sammy since back in march & have not seen rainbows until 2 weeks ago. at ue, a feed with a dimly lit stage & a spot light on a bottle on a 725 was when i saw my first rainbows. a glance across the screen is when i saw them. to the left & right of the bottle when glancing back & forth. on the sammies also. i figured since i'm partially red/green color blind i would not see them. i stand corrected. under that circumstance was the only time i've seen them. thus i'm waiting to see the jvc hd-52z795.

Originally posted by meshuggah
i have been looking at the mitz & the sammy since back in march & have not seen rainbows until 2 weeks ago. at ue, a feed with a dimly lit stage & a spot light on a bottle on a 725 was when i saw my first rainbows. a glance across the screen is when i saw them. to the left & right of the bottle when glancing back & forth. on the sammies also. i figured since i'm partially red/green color blind i would not see them. i stand corrected. under that circumstance was the only time i've seen them. thus i'm waiting to see the jvc hd-52z795.

The worst I have ever seen them was on a recorded episode of Survivor. It was an SD recording (obviously) on my Moto 6208 DVR. I can't remember if I had recorded it off the analog or digital channel at this point. In that one instance, I saw them all over the place when I was looking directly at the screen...there were bands of color in dark areas, in high contrast areas...really, all over the place. I had some friends watch it, and they saw everything I did. Luckily, that was the only time I saw them to that extent. I do see them when glancing away in high contrast situations some, but as someone mentioned earlier, I just don't allow it to bother me. It is at most a slight aggravation and really doesn't impact the overall viewing experience for me....

YMMV,
-Randy

If you have recently purchased or are considering purchasing a Mitsubishi DLP TV, I suggest you read the following post. It describes a problem some are experiencing with the new DLP TV's, which to date Mitsubishi is saying is normal and within their product spec. I'm only providing my experiences as a point of reference for others to consider when making a purchasing decision. I do love this TV, but expect it to work as it should and as its advertised.

Here is the link.

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4707900#post4707900

Originally posted by sbrown02
If you have recently purchased or are considering purchasing a Mitsubishi DLP TV, I suggest you read the following post. It describes a problem some are experiencing with the new DLP TV's, which to date Mitsubishi is saying is normal and within their product spec. I'm only providing my experiences as a point of reference for others to consider when making a purchasing decision. I do love this TV, but expect it to work as it should and as its advertised.

Here is the link.

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4707900#post4707900

Actually, if you read through the rest of the thread I think you'll find that a Mits Rep has now acknowledged the problem and that it has been fixed with a light engine replacement. If they institute that as a fix they will have dealt with the problem pretty effectively (their initial reaction notwithstanding).

DC

FYI... the mits trim kit is now available for the 52 and 62" TV's... cost is $50 apiece.

where can the trim kit be ordered from??

Originally posted by BosoxDanJ
where can the trim kit be ordered from??

Or at the very least, we'd have to know the part number for it to help out with our not-so-bright local service. I doubt you can order directly from Mits', right?

Originally posted by BigAl
FYI... the mits trim kit is now available for the 52 and 62" TV's... cost is $50 apiece.
Along those lines, has any Mits DLP owner removed their front protective screens? If so, did you find the result PQ the same, better, or less compared to having the screen on?

The reason I ask is that I viewed several DLP and LCD RPTVs a couple of days ago in CC, and I found that the DLP and LCD TVs with the permanent matte screens (which were all but the Sony XBR LCD RPTV) seemed dull in comparison to the CRT RPTVs in the store.

When I compare the Mits DLPs to the Mits CRTs at our local Mits dealer, I find them both to be similar, and neither one of them I would consider to be dull. It would be interesting to find out whether removing the protective screen on the Mits DLPs changes their "look".

Michael

"I see rainbows about as often as I did when I first got the 62525."

I watched a 62725 tonight for 3 hours and I felt it was really "rainbow city".

I have to say that I've typically only experienced these TVs at trade shows and at retail, rarely spending this kind of time with one just watching.

I could never own one. And I'm hesitant to continue recommending them without urging people to spend long enough to understand the rainbow effect and make sure they don't experience it.

Why?

Because I find it so incredibly annoying that it made me consider not watching more than once. And it reallly takes me out of what I'm watching.

This is a 111-page thread (in standard thread view for AVS) on these TVs and I want to re-emphasize that I generally find them to be pretty terrific products.

But not for me.

Please return to your regularly scheduled discussion of these fine TVs.

Originally posted by Michael Mohrmann
Along those lines, has any Mits DLP owner removed their front protective screens? If so, did you find the result PQ the same, better, or less compared to having the screen on?

The reason I ask is that I viewed several DLP and LCD RPTVs a couple of days ago in CC, and I found that the DLP and LCD TVs with the permanent matte screens (which were all but the Sony XBR LCD RPTV) seemed dull in comparison to the CRT RPTVs in the store.

When I compare the Mits DLPs to the Mits CRTs at our local Mits dealer, I find them both to be similar, and neither one of them I would consider to be dull. It would be interesting to find out whether removing the protective screen on the Mits DLPs changes their "look".

Michael

Some here say the PQ is slightly better with the screen on, glare notwithstanding, with most of them saying it adds a dimensional look to it. The rest of this group aren't sure how to describe it, only that it *looks* better.

I and some others don't see an appreciable difference in PQ with the screen on or off. In my case, any improvement there *might* be in using the screen is greatly outweighed by the negative impact of the glare, even if there is a slight amount of it.

This kind of thing varies from person to person. Best way to tell is to view the same tv with and without the screen and judge for yourself.

I work at a SoundTrack/Ultimate Electronics and it is showing up in our system as a special order item with a manufacturer's code of SF52 and SF62... either is listed at $49.95.

Question for those of you who have a Mits DLP and DirecTV. I just ordered my first Pay Per View movie through DirecTV. As my Mits DLP is obviously 16:9, I ordered the letterbox version of the movie.

What I received was the movie in perfect 16:9 formatting, only there were top, bottom, left and right sidebars...on ALL sides of the picture. Believe me, every setting was triple checked, and I could not get the 16:9 presentation to fill my screen.

Anybody ever experience this???

Originally posted by BigAl
I work at a SoundTrack/Ultimate Electronics and it is showing up in our system as a special order item with a manufacturer's code of SF52 and SF62... either is listed at $49.95.

BigAl:
Do you think my local PC Richard appliance store can order this trim kit for me? I purchased my 52525 there. Can I order the kit from your store and have it shipped to my location? Do you know of any source for the 52725's anti-glare shield? There has to be a replacement source if the original one is damaged. Any info on the mentioned item is appreciated.

TIA....JL

Originally posted by rpr
Question for those of you who have a Mits DLP and DirecTV. I just ordered my first Pay Per View movie through DirecTV. As my Mits DLP is obviously 16:9, I ordered the letterbox version of the movie.

What I received was the movie in perfect 16:9 formatting, only there were top, bottom, left and right sidebars...on ALL sides of the picture. Believe me, every setting was triple checked, and I could not get the 16:9 presentation to fill my screen.

Anybody ever experience this???

I've had similar situations with movies on other channels, but have never used PPV. As a slightly educated guess, I'd say the issue is that DirecTV only puts out a few HD channels, and reception requires an HD set-top-box. If you're running a standard definition box, then when you requested the letterbox format of the movie, it sized it down to fit in a 4:3 screen, with black bars at the top and bottom. When you then played it on your TV, since the D* box only puts out a 4:3 signal, the TV added the black bars to the sides.

If you're running an HD set-top-box, then I'd say you have to check with D* and find out if they offer any of the PPV movies in HD.

One of my (very minor) complaints about this set, is that if you've got a movie in letterbox format from an SD source, there's no way to expand it to the proper proportions to fill the screen. The Zoom and Expand features both blow it up TOO much, so you wind up chopping things on all sides.

SRFast, I would think they could. If not try calling mitsubishi parts... the number should be on Mit's website. I could order you one but unfortunately our policy on special orders kinda bites... must be paid in full, no returns allowed and you need to allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. It would probably be faster to get it direct from mits.

rpr-
As far as I know, D* only has one ppv channel in HD, channel 99. I haven't ordered a movie, so can't verify the format, but you can check this out and let us know.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, D*TV does only have one HD PPV channel, and I ordered the PPV movie from an SD channel. However, they do offer the SD movies in either format, and I ordered the SD movie in 16:9. I also do have an HD TIVO HR10-250, but I don't think that should matter, other channels that present in 16:9 (SD and HD) display fine.

D*TV said they will escalate it and look into it, but I'm not holding my breath.

Originally posted by rpr
Thanks for the replies. Yes, D*TV does only have one HD PPV channel, and I ordered the PPV movie from an SD channel. However, they do offer the SD movies in either format, and I ordered the SD movie in 16:9. I also do have an HD TIVO HR10-250, but I don't think that should matter, other channels that present in 16:9 (SD and HD) display fine.

D*TV said they will escalate it and look into it, but I'm not holding my breath.

In your original post, you stated you ordered it in "letterbox" format. Keep in mind that letterbox means they shrink the 16:9 image down to fit on a 4:3 screen, with the bars top and bottom. When you then put that image onto your 16:9 screen, you've just added bars to the side.

With the HD receiver, does it stretch non-HD channels to fill the screen? I only get HD from the OTA antenna, and I'm not a big fan of stretched SD pictures, so I'm used to seeing the black side bars.

So far, I'm not convinced that the added HD channels from D* are worth the cost of the HD Tivo receiver and additional monthly fee.

tbone: Good point...I was also thinking along the same lines. However, when you order a PPV movie through D*TV they appear to activate the showing on both the 4:3 channel as well as the 16:9 channel, regardless of which you select (each PPV movie is shown on two channels, one 4:3 and one 16:9). On the 4:3 channel, I got left and right sidebars. On the 16:9 channel, I got left, right, top and bottom sidebars.

Next time I will order the non-letterbox version, and will try that on the off chance that they actually transmit different signals to both the 4:3 and 16:9 channels based on your initial selection (of either letterbox or non-letterbox) during the ordering process.

Hope that makes sense...kind of a double negative.

Originally posted by rpr
tbone: Next time I will order the non-letterbox version, and will try that on the off chance that they actually transmit different signals to both the 4:3 and 16:9 channels based on your initial selection (of either letterbox or non-letterbox) during the ordering process.

Hope that makes sense...kind of a double negative.

You may have lost me a little bit there, but if I'm reading it right, and you order the non-letterbox version, what you'll get is the pan&scan cut of the movie, losing some detail from the left & right sides. When shown on your 16:9 screen, it'll either be stretched to fill (still without the missing detail) or it will be in 4:3 and you'll have black bars. Either way, you're not getting the "whole" picture.

All this is why I stick with DVD's...lol....

Im trying to decided between the 525 with the Glare Screen removed or the 725. Does anyone have picts of what the 525 looks like without the Glare Screen?

Much Appreciated

I don't know for sure if this feature will take ambient light into account, but it is definitely dynamic and at least partially based on the video content. When I am running test patterns from the DVE disk, especially the gray scale ones, you can see a change over about 8-10 seconds; the darker grays start creeping into black. It varies with the rest of the video material.

So to make a long story short, I would recommend turning OFF the "black enhancement" in the TV menu during calibration.

That said, it might be a cool feature for some SD broadcast channels. I know my old Mits CRT RPTV (SD) had a feature called "IRIS" that would dynamically adjust the contrast/brightness, and I'm pretty sure that system was based solely on ambient room lighting.

MY HD reception using a Silver Sensor is quite poor. The signal strength stays at 7-8 in the Options menu but edges are very blurry. Any ideas?

edges are very blurry That's not a antenna/tuner problem............

Originally posted by Grond
MY HD reception using a Silver Sensor is quite poor. The signal strength stays at 7-8 in the Options menu but edges are very blurry. Any ideas?

Depends what you mean by "blurry." Try turnin off the Define Edge function. That did the trick for me on true HD content.

Originally posted by atomicdogg
Im trying to decided between the 525 with the Glare Screen removed or the 725. Does anyone have picts of what the 525 looks like without the Glare Screen?

Much Appreciated

I don't have a pic, but I can tell you that when you remove the screen from the 525 the Mits logo comes off with it. It doesn't look too bad, and I think you can even buy a "trim kit" for it, but at that point just go with the 725.

Originally posted by rtmoore4


-------------

My settings on component 1, DVD, after calibration with DVE:

Magenta - 30
Red - 37
Yellow - 32
Green - 32
Cyan - 28
Blue - 28

Color Temp - Low
Noise - Standard
Film Mode - Auto
Define Edge - On
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 35
Sharpness - 48
Color - 30
Tint - 29

I wasn't able to get the colors EXACTLY balanced per DVE, but they are very close with this setup.

I'm surprised to see your red turned up as well as the tint a couple notches towards the red. I'm sure all sets vary a bit but I definitely feel red is the most elevated on mine with green being a close second. Are you still happy with these settings?

Originally posted by Grond
I'm surprised to see your red turned up as well as the tint a couple notches towards the red. I'm sure all sets vary a bit but I definitely feel red is the most elevated on mine with green being a close second. Are you still happy with these settings?

Funny-

With a Sony Prog scan DVD player and Avia I have left the perfect color settings to 31.

Contrast to 26
Brightness 45
Sharp 13
Def Edge- Off
Color Temp- Low
Color 31
Tint 26
Noise reduction off.

This works for all inputs with a few changes:

For the Dish Network 811 connected via HDMI I had to change the Bright and Contrast to 31 each. I hope to test this against the HDNEt test signals tomorrow at 8am.

For the Cable TV connection (which gets some of my local OTA stations in HD) is the same as the DVD, but with noise reduction on.

Film mode AUto where non-component inputs are used. (VHS, Dish 510 DVR)

For the XBOX on component via MS XBox HD kit I turn on Define Edge and turn it off depending on the game.

Overall I agree with your observations- there is a bit of Red Push and the Green is slightly behind it. People tent to look "rosy" faced. The Tint setting seems to fix that.

I called Mitsu parts today to order the trim kit for a WD-52525. I was told it was in stock and would cost $64.00. They took my credit card info and gave me a order confirmation #, but not a total price because they needed to determine the shipping charges. I got a call back and was told the Airborne shipping charge was $57.00 to NYC and that was the cheapest option! I don't mind paying the trim kit price, but $57.00 for shipping, no way. I asked the CS to cancel the order and she did. I can live with the shield on or without the trim kit.

Regards.....JL

SRFast.

Wow! Just over $110 with shipping to NY? I hope a local place will sell it to me at sticker price. What a rip off.

Hell, we could go down to glass shop and have them cut a custom piece of plexiglass for less than that. I don't need a Mitsubishi logo THAT bad.

Ouch! $57 for shipping?


You could always rip off a Mits emblem from a junked Mits car and glue it to your own Mits trim kit. Or better yet steal it off one in a parking lot at BB or CC. :)

I was hoping the kit was the trim broken down into pieces requiring some minor assembly. I guess that's asking too much. $57 shipping to NYC. This has to be the cost to ship it via Fed Ex or UPS, where the shipping charge would be determined by its so-called 'dimensional weight'. If they just mailed it to you by U.S. Postal Service it would be a whole lot cheaper. But then the dimensions of the box probably exceed that allowed by the U.S.P.S.

Oh well, no trim for me.

SRFast,

Yeah, I called mits parts today and got the same story... I told her we sold it for $50. She said they were going to change it to a general available part thru authorized dealers. If they do I'll let you know, our shipping should be much less... and our price on it is $50 instead of 64.

NetCommand question...when you are using NC to control an AVR, is it supposed to turn it on and off automatically when you turn the TV on and off? The Mits manual says if your AVR has the same button for On/Off, only program NC with the power On. I originally programmed both, and had a problem with it turning the AVR back on after it simultaneously turned off both the TV and the AVR. So I went back into NC setup and "unlearned" the Off function for the AVR. Now it doesn't turn it on or off automatically. I'm a little frustrated with the manual because it tells you how to set things up but doesn't say anything about how they are supposed to operate once setup!

Originally posted by tsiopni
NetCommand question...when you are using NC to control an AVR, is it supposed to turn it on and off automatically when you turn the TV on and off? The Mits manual says if your AVR has the same button for On/Off, only program NC with the power On. I originally programmed both, and had a problem with it turning the AVR back on after it simultaneously turned off both the TV and the AVR. So I went back into NC setup and "unlearned" the Off function for the AVR. Now it doesn't turn it on or off automatically. I'm a little frustrated with the manual because it tells you how to set things up but doesn't say anything about how they are supposed to operate once setup!

Can I suggest a separate thread on using Net Command? This thread is already pretty long and full of a lot of different topics. I think there may already be one started, but I'd be interested in reading more about this as well.

Thanks.

I had the same problem using my Tivo remote control. I programmed it to turn the Tv on and off, and NetCommand programmed the TV to turn on/off my AVR. I finally unlearned the NetCommand, and programmed my Tivo remote to simultaneously turn on/off both the TV and AVR.

Originally posted by BigAl
SRFast,

Yeah, I called mits parts today and got the same story... I told her we sold it for $50. She said they were going to change it to a general available part thru authorized dealers. If they do I'll let you know, our shipping should be much less... and our price on it is $50 instead of 64.

BigAl:
Thanks for the offer. I know we can always count on you to help out.

Regards....JL

Originally posted by tsiopni
NetCommand question...when you are using NC to control an AVR, is it supposed to turn it on and off automatically when you turn the TV on and off? The Mits manual says if your AVR has the same button for On/Off, only program NC with the power On.

I too have only programmed the "on" button. AFAIK I must separately turn the AVR on and off, even if I had the audio set to "AVR" when I last turned off the tv.

My Onkyo has both on and off programmed. Netcommand turns the receiver on when the TV is turned on (with Mits remote) and turns the receiver off when the set is switched off.

Originally posted by joewmaki
My Onkyo has both on and off programmed. Netcommand turns the receiver on when the TV is turned on (with Mits remote) and turns the receiver off when the set is switched off.
Ditto for my Yamaha HTR-5730 AVR. Depending upon the device selected, I am able to access menus, etc for each device always leaving Mits remote slider switch to TV. My devices are DBS (RCA DTC-210 HD D* Receiver), and DVD (Toshiba SD-3960).
If for instance DBS is selected as the device, pushing the power button on the Mits remote will turn on the TV, the DBS, the AVR and select the correct digital audio input. Pushing the power button again will turn off the TV, the AVR, and the DBS.
Since my DVD player does not have separate on/off, Net Command will turn it on when DVD has been selected as the device and then you push the play button, but won't turn it off. But the DVD has auto-off after 20 minutes of inactivity, so no problem there.
Two dilemmas: Net Command will not allow devices to share the same audio input on AVR (except Ant1/2), so can't figure out how to set up DBS as both Component Input and DVI-HDMI, as two separate devices. My AVR has only 3 digital audio inputs (one each for TV, DVD, DBS).
The other situation is that when powering on the TV, and DBS was the last device used, the TV comes on, the DBS comes on (on the last channel that was viewed), then after a few seconds the Mits evidently sends a signal through the IR blasters, which causes the DBS to switch to channel 3 (not a working D* channel) , so I have to hit the channel up or down to get going again.
Anyone have any ideas?

Mit's MB-62X25 Stand Question.

Does anyone have the specs for the 62X25 stand? How tall is it? I'm trying to pull my speaker cables and I cannot find any dimensions anywhere to tell me how tall the stand is. If anyone has the stand, can you tell me the total height with the 62?

Thanks!

Originally posted by fishguts

The other situation is that when powering on the TV, and DBS was the last device used, the TV comes on, the DBS comes on (on the last channel that was viewed), then after a few seconds the Mits evidently sends a signal through the IR blasters, which causes the DBS to switch to channel 3 (not a working D* channel) , so I have to hit the channel up or down to get going again.
Anyone have any ideas?

I don't have any ideas, but mine does do the exact same thing. Chanel 3 a few seconds after power on.. Although my wife things it doesn't always do it, I'll need to pay more attention if this is 100% or not. Perhaps a support call is needed to try to get this updated in software?

my 52525 does the same thing to my cable box that is set up in NetCommand. I believe this is considered to be a "feature" of NetCommand but most consider it to be extremely obnoxious (including me).

I did notice recently that this only happens when you power the Mits off with the device as the last thing selected in NetCommand. If you switch it to another device before powering it off mine no longer sends the signal.