I have a Toshiba 46H83 46" tv and i was messing with the service menu but forgot to write down the default settings for everything, now the picture is messed up. Can someone please give me the default or the best settings for the service menu? thank you

I have a Toshiba 46H83 46" tv and i was messing with the service menu but forgot to write down the default settings for everything, now the picture is messed up. Can someone please give me the default or the best settings for the service menu? thank you

There is only 1 memo command in the Tosh sm, and that is for after you have done your convergence and hit the number 7 to save it permanently.

EVERYTHING else automatically erases what was before it, as soon as you change it. There are no other memorization commands. You change it, you bought it.

Can't help you myself, I am not an owner, but my heart goes out to you -

:(

Mr Bob

Not sure I know how this forum is supposed to work but you seem to be the "go to" guy for these toshiba sets. I have a 4 year old 46h84c that has health issues - pink screen and poor horizontal hold at startup followed by vertical black bands - about 1" wide all across the screen at all times - active channels, menu's etc. I have already upgraded to s Samsung Plasma where this set was, but am trying to decide whether the unit warrants fixing or just goes to the electronic scrap heap. Would appreciate yours or anyone elses advice

Not sure I know how this forum is supposed to work but you seem to be the "go to" guy for these toshiba sets. I have a 4 year old 46h84c that has health issues - pink screen and poor horizontal hold at startup followed by vertical black bands - about 1" wide all across the screen at all times - active channels, menu's etc. I have already upgraded to s Samsung Plasma where this set was, but am trying to decide whether the unit warrants fixing or just goes to the electronic scrap heap. Would appreciate yours or anyone elses advice

Sorry, would love to help you out, but I don't recognize any of those symptoms.


Mr Bob

Hello all! I am new to the forum and have been trying to troubleshoot a problem I have been having with my 65H84. I hope someone can help:

When the TV is powered on, twitching horizontal lines appear on the screen and the picture can hardly be seen. The lines also appear to be black and white. As the set "warms up" the lines gradually go away but the picture still remains blurry then the picture will then randomly snap into a clear high definition picture but sometime goes back to the blurry picture.

This does not seem to be a common problem described in this thread. I could only find one instance in which someone was having the same issues. The post is #2253 and this person may have described the problem a little better. I hope someone can help me because it has become very annoying!!!

Thanks

I'm sorry, the post is #1475. This is what it says:

Hello, I have a 57H83 and after 1.5 years the picture began to distort/roll down but not off the screen. For instance, when you power up the unit, and where it tells you what input your on (lower right hand corner) would scroll off (bow downwards). Once the the unit would "warm up" you begin to see a picture but there would be horizontal lines all over the screen from top to bottom but the picture was not bowed. The lines are not perfect...more like what I would call a "noisy" picture. This would last for 1 hour then the picture would come in and look normal. After awhile the unit quit doing this until now.

Now it doesn't roll/distort/bow but the horizontal lines still appear sometimes. They appear some when it first powered, sometimes when you are just watching a show, and i've noticed if you change the channel or input it can trigger this noise. The lines can show up if you bump it or they can also go away.

Power supply caps...? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I have till May before the warranty is up on Pic tube but if it just power supply caps or something I can do it. Just don't want to void what warranty I have left and don't want to hit the unit to be able to use it...Thanks and sorry for the long post.
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I'm sorry, the post is #1475. This is what it says:

Hello, I have a 57H83 and after 1.5 years the picture began to distort/roll down but not off the screen. For instance, when you power up the unit, and where it tells you what input your on (lower right hand corner) would scroll off (bow downwards). Once the the unit would "warm up" you begin to see a picture but there would be horizontal lines all over the screen from top to bottom but the picture was not bowed. The lines are not perfect...more like what I would call a "noisy" picture. This would last for 1 hour then the picture would come in and look normal. After awhile the unit quit doing this until now.

Now it doesn't roll/distort/bow but the horizontal lines still appear sometimes. They appear some when it first powered, sometimes when you are just watching a show, and i've noticed if you change the channel or input it can trigger this noise. The lines can show up if you bump it or they can also go away.

Power supply caps...? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I have till May before the warranty is up on Pic tube but if it just power supply caps or something I can do it. Just don't want to void what warranty I have left and don't want to hit the unit to be able to use it...Thanks and sorry for the long post.
mpo45 is offline Report Post Reply With Quote

What you are describing is "thermals" - intermittencies keyed to warm-up and run temperatures - which are usually caused by bad conn's, like cold solder joints.

Are the colors separating from each other, is this the cause of the blurriness? If so, that would indicate that the legs of the conv ICs need to be resoldered. Very typical for legs of those ICs to go cold solder at some point in a CRT RPTV set's life, due to how hot conv ICs generally run -

If it goes on too long that way, being played while hurt, it will croak those ICs and require their replacement.

This is all assuming what you are seeing is rainbowing, or separation of the colors in different parts of the screen, possibly with geometry errors cropping up as well.

If not, then concentrate on bad conn's somewhere. Tho I would never advise a consumer to go inside his electronics while the set is on due to dangerous voltages - and am NOT doing so, get a tech in there to do that for you - what I would do is tap on various parts in there starting with the heat sink for the conv ICs, and press on the board itself at various points - with something very NON conductive - to see if I could trigger the event you are talking about.

If so it's a cold solder joint in that area, and that joint needs to be resoldered. Sometimes resoldering a whole area is needed, to get the points that are really involved.

Whenever you resolder an entire area, be sure to NOT leave any solder bridges - unintended solder conn's, esp. between super tiny pads - behind. When you turn the set back on, any of those could instantly croak your entire set and cause problems there is no easy cure for.

If you have any doubts about your prowess as a professional repair tech, bail out NOW and pay for a qualified tech to get in there! You could do permanent and very costly damage to your set by attempting what I would do in there, if you are not a qualified and seasoned repair tech like I am.


Mr Bob

Hello everyone - long time lurker, first time poster...

I bought a new 57H84 from BB back in Oct '04 (along with the dreaded Product Service Plan) and have been mostly thrilled with it until recently. Over the last few months I've noticed the picture getting progressively darker and darker. Looking through page after page of this thread, I discovered Mr. Bob's post above (#2225) that stated "the optics become in desperate need of cleaning by about the 3rd year." I called BB to schedule a preventive maintenance/cleaning/troubleshooting call, which in hindsight was probably my second mistake (buying the PSP was the first).

Well, the Geek Squad guy (GS) showed up on Friday. First, he removed the lower front panel of the TV, changed the channel to some standard definition sports channel, then proceeded to adjust some internal controls while asking me over and over again if I thought the picture looked any better. I asked if he had some sort of calibration equipment, thinking he might have brought some sort of test pattern DVD, and he said it’s best to just eyeball it. I did not expect any sort of high-end calibration/convergence work, but I certainly expected more than what I got. Trying not to be difficult, I still insisted on a cleaning – I understood the preventive maintenance call involved cleaning and adjusting the bulbs/lens/guns/whatever. GS explained that the sales people at BB really “try to upsell the PSP,” and that the cleaning was not that involved. He explained he didn’t like to remove the screen to do this because it was difficult and that he could access the tubes from the rear. He removed a grill from the back of the television, reached in with what appeared to be a lint-free cloth sprayed with some gel-based cleanser, and wiped off each of the tubes. He spent less than a minute wiping the tubes off, and that may have included the time he took to answer a personal phone call. Although I was unhappy with the service provided, the picture was indeed brighter, so GS left. Later that evening I watched a movie in high definition (Pan's Labyrinth) and was disappointed to discover (I’m not sure how best to describe this) the blues in the picture were “over bright” and washed out. The next morning I recorded HDNet’s “High Definition Test Patterns” program, and discovered that my overscan levels were way beyond what they consider to be acceptable.

I called BB earlier this morning to vent, and I'm now expecting a call back from the Geek Squad field supervisor later today to discuss - before I delve much further into this - am I crazy for thinking that I should've gotten more than what I did (even from the Geek Squad)? What do you think I should have expected from a basic preventive maintenance call? Is there some sort of standard level of service that ISF certified technician's are supposed to provide?

He explained he didn’t like to remove the screen to do this because it was difficult and that he could access the tubes from the rear. He removed a grill from the back of the television, reached in with what appeared to be a lint-free cloth sprayed with some gel-based cleanser, and wiped off each of the tubes. He spent less than a minute wiping the tubes off, and that may have included the time he took to answer a personal phone call.

Can the tubes really be accessed from behind? If so, then I don't think that cleaning them that way, is really all that wrong.

However, regardless of how they are cleaned, I thought a recalibration is always required.

Hello everyone - long time lurker, first time poster...

I bought a new 57H84 from BB back in Oct '04 (along with the dreaded Product Service Plan) and have been mostly thrilled with it until recently. Over the last few months I've noticed the picture getting progressively darker and darker. Looking through page after page of this thread, I discovered Mr. Bob's post above (#2225) that stated "the optics become in desperate need of cleaning by about the 3rd year." I called BB to schedule a preventive maintenance/cleaning/troubleshooting call, which in hindsight was probably my second mistake (buying the PSP was the first).

Well, the Geek Squad guy (GS) showed up on Friday. First, he removed the lower front panel of the TV, changed the channel to some standard definition sports channel, then proceeded to adjust some internal controls while asking me over and over again if I thought the picture looked any better. I asked if he had some sort of calibration equipment, thinking he might have brought some sort of test pattern DVD, and he said it’s best to just eyeball it. I did not expect any sort of high-end calibration/convergence work, but I certainly expected more than what I got. Trying not to be difficult, I still insisted on a cleaning – I understood the preventive maintenance call involved cleaning and adjusting the bulbs/lens/guns/whatever. GS explained that the sales people at BB really “try to upsell the PSP,” and that the cleaning was not that involved. He explained he didn’t like to remove the screen to do this because it was difficult and that he could access the tubes from the rear. He removed a grill from the back of the television, reached in with what appeared to be a lint-free cloth sprayed with some gel-based cleanser, and wiped off each of the tubes. He spent less than a minute wiping the tubes off, and that may have included the time he took to answer a personal phone call. Although I was unhappy with the service provided, the picture was indeed brighter, so GS left. Later that evening I watched a movie in high definition (Pan's Labyrinth) and was disappointed to discover (I’m not sure how best to describe this) the blues in the picture were “over bright” and washed out. The next morning I recorded HDNet’s “High Definition Test Patterns” program, and discovered that my overscan levels were way beyond what they consider to be acceptable.

I called BB earlier this morning to vent, and I'm now expecting a call back from the Geek Squad field supervisor later today to discuss - before I delve much further into this - am I crazy for thinking that I should've gotten more than what I did (even from the Geek Squad)? What do you think I should have expected from a basic preventive maintenance call? Is there some sort of standard level of service that ISF certified technician's are supposed to provide?

Overscan is endemic to the genre, so unless he CAUSED the overscan you see and it was not there in the first place, you can't fault him for that. You can't change the overscan simply by going in underneath, where the CRT necks are. You gotta do it in the sm.

The HDNet overscan pattern is flawed, BTW, don't trust it. Look very carefully at the numbers out towards the edges. There's some missing teeth there...

As far as the cleaning goes, I have never heard of using a gel-like substance, nor of being able to SPRAY such a substance! If it worked without scoring or scratching the lenses, fine. But I always do the mirror as well - which is why I always go in thru the front - and on Tosh's I seem to always find the need to do the deeper optics as well, tho I always test for whether that is needed or not and clear it with the owner before proceeding.

If he went into the sm and did not write down his beginning values before changing anything, he has desecrated the oldest rule of calibration: ALWAYS LEAVE A VALID TRAIL OF BREADCRUMBS BACK TO WHERE YOU STARTED, JIC! This can be marking the beginning position of your lenses before changing their focus settings, this can be writing down all register values before changing any of them...

If he changed the focus block settings willy-nilly and without the proper images up on the screen and without being in the dark, he probably changed the Screen settings, decimating your grayscale. Sounds like esp. blue. It's OK to change the Focus settings on the focus block by eyeballing it, but very few people are adept at eyeballing how to set the Screen controls. If he is, I hand it to him. But it doesn't sound like that's how it wound up...

In sm he could have driven your blue drive settings thru the roof, in a very ignorant attempt at brightening up your picture. But that would affect only the bright areas. On the focus block, he could have futzed all over the place with your Screen controls, which affect your darks only, and if so who knows where your grayscale is, now. Sounds like it may have blue all over your darks, meaning the blue screen control may have been goosed up way above where the others are.

NO changes to Screen controls will ever be correctly done in the daylight, either. They HAVE to be done in the dark. That may be why you never saw those changes till that night.

I would demand to know EXACTLY what changes were made in your service menu - and at your focus block - while he was there. Last time I did an ISF seminar, they coached ALL participants to STAY AWAY from the focus block. If he is ISF trained, I suspect he has been delivered that same message during the ISF seminar...


Mr Bob

I have a 57H83 that I purchased new a few years ago. I've been very pleased with it overall. One of the things that has been bothering me lately is the amount of overscan that is present. I know that this is just the nature of the beast, but what is the correct way of reducing the overscan? A couple of years ago I made a homemade convergence grid with a sheet of clear plastic, a ruler, and a sharpie. I got the directions from a thread over at the Spot. This convergence grid was based on about a 5% overscan. The 56pt convergence grid on the H83's is only accessible through the service menu so I dove in (after writing down all of the initial values first). I proceeded to align one of the guns to the home-made grid, then removed the grid and aligned the other two guns to the first.

In theory I could create a new grid based on a much lower amount of overscan (say 1%) and do a 56pt convergence in the service menu, but I have a feeling that this is not the correct way of doing it and may stress the internals too much. Is this correct? Should I be making adjustments to the height and width parameters instead?

I'm looking to reduce the overscan because I've noticed on several channels that I'm getting some text cut off on the sides and/or top and bottom. It's become distracting to me. It's always been there, but I've just noticed it more recently. If anyone has any step by step instructions on how to do this then that would be great. Thanks!

I recently reduced my overscan to 2.5% by adjusting the HIT and WID parameters. From what I've read, I didn't want to go any lower than that. You would have to make a new grid or use a tape measure (that's what I did). I brought up an overscan pattern in Avia, set the picture size to full, and adjusted height and width to get to 2.5%. I did convergence after that.

I recently reduced my overscan to 2.5% by adjusting the HIT and WID parameters. From what I've read, I didn't want to go any lower than that. You would have to make a new grid or use a tape measure (that's what I did). I brought up an overscan pattern in Avia, set the picture size to full, and adjusted height and width to get to 2.5%. I did convergence after that.

I find that anything under4-4.5% makes the sides feather way too far apart vertically, on their horizontal lines of their grids. Which of course transfers directly to program material. Instead of the innocuous amount of feathering that 4-4.5% delivers - that isn't even noticeable during regular playback of regular video - anything under that is very noticeable, and distracting.

IMHO, most CRT RPTVs were not designed to go any lower than 4-4.5% overscan. And what is present OOB is what they actually do at the factory, as most people are not that discriminating. And it takes a great deal of skill and attention even to make that much - 4-4.5% - innocuous.

Now give me an expensive ceiling mount CRT projector, and I'll dial in 0% for you, no sweat.

But not an RPTV.


Mr Bob

Overscan is endemic to the genre, so unless he CAUSED the overscan you see and it was not there in the first place, you can't fault him for that. You can't change the overscan simply by going in underneath, where the CRT necks are. You gotta do it in the sm.

The HDNet overscan pattern is flawed, BTW, don't trust it. Look very carefully at the numbers out towards the edges. There's some missing teeth there...My bad - I didn't really think that he messed up the overscan. It was just "one more thing" that I was frustrated to discover within a day of the service call.

I did read elsewhere that the HDNET overscan pattern is flawed, but I was still concerned because the program mentions the "acceptable range" for overscan was a 4 on the left/right sides, and a 3 on the top/bottom. Well, I'm showing between 12-14 on the left/right, and about an 8 on the top/bottom. And the top/bottom lines were "crooked" to boot...

As far as the cleaning goes, I have never heard of using a gel-like substance, nor of being able to SPRAY such a substance! If it worked without scoring or scratching the lenses, fine. But I always do the mirror as well - which is why I always go in thru the front - and on Tosh's I seem to always find the need to do the deeper optics as well, tho I always test for whether that is needed or not and clear it with the owner before proceeding.How do you test to see if that deeper cleaning is needed?

NO changes to Screen controls will ever be correctly done in the daylight, either. They HAVE to be done in the dark. That may be why you never saw those changes till that night.

I would demand to know EXACTLY what changes were made in your service menu - and at your focus block - while he was there. Last time I did an ISF seminar, they coached ALL participants to STAY AWAY from the focus block. If he is ISF trained, I suspect he has been delivered that same message during the ISF seminar...Mr BobHe never entered the sm, and I know that he never marked/noted where the settings on the focus block were before he started his futzing.

I spoke with GS's boss yesterday afternoon - they're sending another tech out to take a look. I'll make sure they use the HDNet test patterns, or I may go out and track down a DVE or Avia disc (recommendations?), and I'll make sure the room's as dark as possible.

Thanks for helping me keep things in perspective... :)

My bad - I didn't really think that he messed up the overscan. It was just "one more thing" that I was frustrated to discover within a day of the service call.

I did read elsewhere that the HDNET overscan pattern is flawed, but I was still concerned because the program mentions the "acceptable range" for overscan was a 4 on the left/right sides, and a 3 on the top/bottom. Well, I'm showing between 12-14 on the left/right, and about an 8 on the top/bottom. And the top/bottom lines were "crooked" to boot...

First of all, if the % on the H is not ID to the % on the V, you will have an oval wherever you're supposed to have a circle. Not real good for suspension of disbelief...

AVIA is good for DVD, but for HD unless you do overscan on your incoming HD image, like I do, you'll need the HD version of DVE and either an HD DVDP or a BluRay player to really get it right.


How do you test to see if that deeper cleaning is needed?

After the regular optics have been cleaned, look down inside each lens for a matting of dust down there. Individual bits of debris are not important, it's the matting of dust that gets backlighted with strong light level material that you're concerned about. 6 surfaces get involved under there - the lens rears and the CRT coolant covers, for each color. (Plus a 7th - remember he didn't do the mirror, which is always coated with smoke also, after a couple of years).

I am available for phone coaching on deeper scrutiny techniques and for successful, safe and well-established procedures for both the regular and deeper optics cleaning if you wish, just contact me by phone or at my regular email address. NOT by pm, please.


He never entered the sm, and I know that he never marked/noted where the settings on the focus block were before he started his futzing.

I spoke with GS's boss yesterday afternoon - they're sending another tech out to take a look. I'll make sure they use the HDNet test patterns, or I may go out and track down a DVE or Avia disc (recommendations?), and I'll make sure the room's as dark as possible.

How you gonna use the HDNet test pattern? Unless you have it recorded in HD on an HD DVR, it's kinda hard to come by during normal daytime hours...

In any case I would NOT let any regular repair tech NEAR the o'scan redux process, GS's or anybody else. Fine to check it, but not for working on it. They'll just tell you it's up to factory specs anyway, and that they are not cleared for changing it. If they offer to do it for you anyway, TURN THEM DOWN. You need someone already highly experienced in CRT triple gun tech, if you don't want to get painted into a corner that'll be a lot more expensive to get you out of later, should they do what most repair techs do when confronted with calibration aspects they are not trained for nor experienced in. The net is rife with horror stories about such things...

:eek:

Thanks for helping me keep things in perspective... :)


Doin' my best -


;)

Mr Bob

First of all, if the % on the H is not ID to the % on the V, you will have an oval wherever you're supposed to have a circle. Not real good for suspension of disbelief...I found the image that's being displayed at feldoncentral.2150.com/HDNet/large/TestPattern_01.jpg (grrr...I can't post links yet). If I understand the program narration correctly, I should be able to see the lines marked 4 on the left/right, and something between the 2 and 4 on the top/bottom. Although the circles in the corners are circles, I'm not seeing the whole circle - The left/right lines are around 12, and the top/bottom lines are around a skewed 8 (I can see the whole 8 on the bottom left side of the screen, but only the top of the 8 on the bottom right side of the screen). Hopefully that makes sense. :)

AVIA is good for DVD, but for HD unless you do overscan on your incoming HD image, like I do, you'll need the HD version of DVE and either an HD DVDP or a BluRay player to really get it right.I've got a PS3 hooked up via HDMI, and I'll probably order the BluRay DVE.

After the regular optics have been cleaned, look down inside each lens for a matting of dust down there. Individual bits of debris are not important, it's the matting of dust that gets backlighted with strong light level material that you're concerned about. 6 surfaces get involved under there - the lens rears and the CRT coolant covers, for each color. (Plus a 7th - remember he didn't do the mirror, which is always coated with smoke also, after a couple of years).

I am available for phone coaching on deeper scrutiny techniques and for successful, safe and well-established procedures for both the regular and deeper optics cleaning if you wish, just contact me by phone or at my regular email address. NOT by pm, please.This is obviously a more complicated task than I expect the GS tech to perform. If I get braver and/or more p.o.'d about the current situation I may give you a call...

How you gonna use the HDNet test pattern? Unless you have it recorded in HD on an HD DVR, it's kinda hard to come by during normal daytime hours...I do indeed have the program recorded in HD on a HD DVR.

In any case I would NOT let any regular repair tech NEAR the o'scan redux process, GS's or anybody else. Fine to check it, but not for working on it. They'll just tell you it's up to factory specs anyway, and that they are not cleared for changing it. If they offer to do it for you anyway, TURN THEM DOWN. You need someone already highly experienced in CRT triple gun tech, if you don't want to get painted into a corner that'll be a lot more expensive to get you out of later, should they do what most repair techs do when confronted with calibration aspects they are not trained for nor experienced in. The net is rife with horror stories about such things...I'm certain the overscan situation has existed since I purchased the television; this is just the first I'm seeing it on a test pattern. Outside of some minor "text outside the viewing area" issues here and there, I haven't been disappointed at all with what I've got. SO - I'll probably just leave the overscan thing alone for now.

Thanks again! :)

Here y'go -

feldoncentral.2150.com/HDNet/large/TestPattern_01.jpg

Mr Bob

I have a 51H83 that will no longer make the HDCP handshake using an HDMI/DVI cable. It worked fine a few weeks ago, then just stopped working. Yes I'm sure it's the HDCP, I've switched sources, cables, even TVs. My popcorn hour works fine, my HD-DVD player doesn't.

I've tried unplugging the TV for a day, then plugging it back in. No dice.

Is there any series of magic button presses that will restart the HDCP system? Any other potential solutions?

Thanks,

Marshall

Have you tried powering up your (Toshiba?) HD DVD player first, and then power up the TV? With the TV pre-sent to the DVI input before previously turning it off.

I know from my 46HX83, the set doesn't like it when devices get plugged/unplugged from its DVI input. It wants just one device plugged in, and for it to never change.

I have a 51H83 that will no longer make the HDCP handshake using an HDMI/DVI cable. It worked fine a few weeks ago, then just stopped working. Yes I'm sure it's the HDCP, I've switched sources, cables, even TVs. My popcorn hour works fine, my HD-DVD player doesn't.

I've tried unplugging the TV for a day, then plugging it back in. No dice.

Is there any series of magic button presses that will restart the HDCP system? Any other potential solutions?

Thanks,

Marshall

DK what you are using it for, but for HD DVD I would definitely use your components rather than HDMI. The only REAL use for HDMI on a CRT RPTV is for upconverting SD DVDs to 1080i. For all other real world uses, component is the best I have seen.

When I tried HDMI out on my last gen CRT Mit 73" recently, the HDMI version was sadly lacking in definition vs. the component version. Component walked all over it, had to get it away!

I have no use for HDMI. My Samsung 841's upconversion from SD DVDs via component is just as good. Keep HDMI around for upconversion purposes if you wish, but for all other sources, component is the cat's meow for CRT RPTV tech. Haven't seen anything better, in all my hundreds of calibrations thru the years.

On digital this may be different, I am just stating my IMHO for CRT RPTVs.


Mr Bob

Have you tried powering up your (Toshiba?) HD DVD player first, and then power up the TV? With the TV pre-sent to the DVI input before previously turning it off.

I know from my 46HX83, the set doesn't like it when devices get plugged/unplugged from its DVI input. It wants just one device plugged in, and for it to never change.

Believe me, I've tried a hundred different ways, and something definitely blew. It worked fine for a year or two now, and just recently stopped.

DK what you are using it for, but for HD DVD I would definitely use your components rather than HDMI. The only REAL use for HDMI on a CRT RPTV is for upconverting SD DVDs to 1080i. For all other real world uses, component is the best I have seen.

When I tried HDMI out on my last gen CRT Mit 73" recently, the HDMI version was sadly lacking in definition vs. the component version. Component walked all over it, had to get it away!

I have no use for HDMI. My Samsung 841's upconversion from SD DVDs via component is just as good.

On digital this may be different, I am just stating my IMHO for CRT RPTVs.


Mr Bob

Well, Component is what I'm using now, but I watch 95% SD DVD versus HD-DVD or Blu-ray, so I'd like to be able to take advantage of the superior upscaling and playback from my Oppo 981.

Also, using HDMI allows me to take advantage of an HDMI switch, and to not have to monkey around with extra button presses.

I am trying to remove the screen from my 57H81, got all of the screws out but I can't get the connector plug to come apart(4 red wires). Is there a trick to unplugging the connector? Thanks!

regards,
Michael

I am trying to remove the screen from my 57H81, got all of the screws out but I can't get the connector plug to come apart(4 red wires). Is there a trick to unplugging the connector? Thanks!

regards,
Michael

There should be two "micro-tabs" on the side of the connector. Pull them (gently) outward and the connector should pop out easily.

Thanks! I will give that a try.

regards,
Michael

Hi Can anyone tell me where the two plugs for the speakers plug into the chassis please

thank you

Has anyone been able to hook up a PS3 via DVI on any of these TV's? If so what are the settings on your PS3. When I try to hook mine up I get a blank screen. I have model # 51H93. I'm wondering if it has something to do with my output settings. (set to RGB). Thanks.

With all your cables connected and the PS3 in standbye (tv on) hold the power button for about ten seconds and you should hear two beeps. This should set your PS3 to your tv.

Hello all,

I've been a longtime lurker and this forum has helped me a bunch. Now time to post my problem. I recently moved from Chicago to LA and in the transit the moving company broke the mirror on my 46h84. They paid me for it, but my wife wanted to the use the money elsewhere. I opened up my set and rigged it so the mirror isn't that bad but I now want to replace it.

While I was in the set it looked relatively easy to replace the mirror. Is that accurate? Is it simple? Any help would be appreciated. While I'm not a service guy I am pretty handy when it comes to electronics and tech stuff.

Also I believe this to be the correct part at Vance Baldwin.

www. vancebaldwin. com/products/?23405273

Does the $39 dollars for a new mirror sound accurate?

PLEASE HELP!! Thanks.

Patrick

Hello all,

I've been a longtime lurker and this forum has helped me a bunch. Now time to post my problem. I recently moved from Chicago to LA and in the transit the moving company broke the mirror on my 46h84. They paid me for it, but my wife wanted to the use the money elsewhere. I opened up my set and rigged it so the mirror isn't that bad but I now want to replace it.

While I was in the set it looked relatively easy to replace the mirror. Is that accurate? Is it simple? Any help would be appreciated. While I'm not a service guy I am pretty handy when it comes to electronics and tech stuff.

Also I believe this to be the correct part at Vance Baldwin.

www. vancebaldwin. com/products/?23405273

Does the $39 dollars for a new mirror sound accurate?

PLEASE HELP!! Thanks.

Patrick

If it's the right part and fits right in, the price is a steal. Hop on it! Those mirrors and fittings are very specialized and unique to your unit.

Except that link IDs it as 51wl, which doesn't match up to your model number. You sure it's the right part?


Mr Bob

With all your cables connected and the PS3 in standbye (tv on) hold the power button for about ten seconds and you should hear two beeps. This should set your PS3 to your tv.


Thanks. I'll try

Hi all…

After reading this thread and receiving awesome information for my 4 year old 57H83..I took it upon myself to do a few of the tweaks that have been stated..It was going great untill..I did make a mistake and turned the screen trim pots instead of the focus…I believe I have a good eye for details, but I don’t know what I am looking for to bring them back..

Can someone please tell me what will get me to about where they should be?..and/or can I used the SM…Avia/DVE and the supplied filters to make the adjustments?

Thanks for your time

If it's the right part and fits right in, the price is a steal. Hop on it! Those mirrors and fittings are very specialized and unique to your unit.

Except that link IDs it as 51wl, which doesn't match up to your model number. You sure it's the right part?


Mr Bob

You know that's what I was curious about. I searched my model and found a link for the mirror and clicked on it. I felt good until I saw the 51wl however I haven't found a toshiba tv that has that model number. Maybe I'm wrong. I'll probably call the company and find out for sure.

Regardless, you are saying that it's easy to replace right? It looked easy when I opened up my set, I just want to make sure.

I really do appreciate that help!!

Patrick

Hi all…

After reading this thread and receiving awesome information for my 4 year old 57H83..I took it upon myself to do a few of the tweaks that have been stated..It was going great untill..I did make a mistake and turned the screen trim pots instead of the focus…I believe I have a good eye for details, but I don’t know what I am looking for to bring them back..

Can someone please tell me what will get me to about where they should be?..and/or can I used the SM…Avia/DVE and the supplied filters to make the adjustments?

Thanks for your time

If you only turned one of the pots, we may be able to get you back to the garden without too much further ado. If you have turned all of them, you have hosed your grayscale and need some VERY specialized assistance, which is NOT taught at ISF.

If I were you I would not go into the sm AT ALL right now, until things are stabilized. Your suggestions are a good indication of your level of inexperience in these things - the filters have NOTHING to do with grayscale, and you have to use very special circumstances if you want to use the AVIA patterns for grayscale.

No point in exacerbating the situation and possibly making it MUCH worse by continuing to do things yourself without the proper training. You see where that has gotten you so far, and it can get worse with the proper amount of denial right now on your part...

I am available for all of the above, if you want to contact me directly. I have brought many overeager DIYers back from the brink with my phone coaching.

If not you're on your own, and good luck -


Mr Bob

You know that's what I was curious about. I searched my model and found a link for the mirror and clicked on it. I felt good until I saw the 51wl however I haven't found a toshiba tv that has that model number. Maybe I'm wrong. I'll probably call the company and find out for sure.

Regardless, you are saying that it's easy to replace right? It looked easy when I opened up my set, I just want to make sure.

I really do appreciate that help!!

Patrick

Replacing a mirror is very straightforward with the proper mirror and the proper fittings for it.


Mr Bob

I noticed awhile ago while hooking up my surround sound system that my screen is every so slightly jerking left and right. I thought it may be the system so I unplugged everything and it still does it. I paused the DVR and you can see it jerking. If I had to guess it's probably moving 1/32-1/16 of an inch.

The picture looks fine and everything else seems to be ok. I've had this surround sound system for almost 2 years. We just moved and I've had the tv hooked up at the new house since the end of June. I decided today to hook up the surround sound.

I searched jerking and shifting with no finds. Is this a common occurance and if so what are my options?

Thanks guys!

EDIT:

Of all the things I didn't do was reboot my cable box. I did that a few minutes ago and that seemed to fix the shaking. It was just odd it seemed to just start doing it out of the blue (handshake issue maybe?) Either way it seems to be worked out at the moment.

Hi All
I'm new here so forgive me if this is the wrong place. I have had a Toshiba 65H84 for several years and it is still going great. I recently tried to upgrade my audio receiver to a Pioneer VSX-1018AH-K but it did not work with my TV. Specifically, video would only be sent from the receiver to the TV via HDMI if the receiver was set to "Passthrough", i.e. the sound passed to the TV rather than being output via the speakers. If the receiver handled the sound there was no picture at all.

Pioneer had no good explanation so I am now looking for something that will work. I'm looking for something in the under $800 range that will do HDMI & has support for the high-def audio formats (TrueHD, DTS-MA). Can anyone else who has this TV provide any advice?
Thanks

Hi All
I'm new here so forgive me if this is the wrong place. I have had a Toshiba 65H84 for several years and it is still going great. Thanks

I hope your optics have been cleaned to a professional grade level recently.

If not, you don't know what you're missing -


Mr Bob

Hi All
I'm new here so forgive me if this is the wrong place. I have had a Toshiba 65H84 for several years and it is still going great. I recently tried to upgrade my audio receiver to a Pioneer VSX-1018AH-K but it did not work with my TV. Specifically, video would only be sent from the receiver to the TV via HDMI if the receiver was set to "Passthrough", i.e. the sound passed to the TV rather than being output via the speakers. If the receiver handled the sound there was no picture at all.

Pioneer had no good explanation so I am now looking for something that will work. I'm looking for something in the under $800 range that will do HDMI & has support for the high-def audio formats (TrueHD, DTS-MA). Can anyone else who has this TV provide any advice?
Thanks

Have you already returned the Pioneer? If not, what is the source of the video (cable box, sat. rec., etc.)? Try http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1042314 for more info on the Pioneer.

Thanks for the response and link. I think I'll try the troubleshooting in the other thread. I would still like to know what other people are running for home theatre audio with this TV in case I need to look at other options.
Cheers

Thanks for the response and link. I think I'll try the troubleshooting in the other thread. I would still like to know what other people are running for home theatre audio with this TV in case I need to look at other options.
Cheers

Well, I have the 57h84, so that's a different TV, and I have an Onkyo TX-SR505, which isn't comparable to the Pioneer (I think the Onkyo TX-SR606 or 706 would be comparable). I still think your issue rests with how the Pioneer is configured or with how the separates are connected. Good luck in the troubleshooting thread.

Thanks for the response and link. I think I'll try the troubleshooting in the other thread. I would still like to know what other people are running for home theatre audio with this TV in case I need to look at other options.
Cheers
65H83
PS3
RX-V663
NP
No Issues

I still think your issue rests with how the Pioneer in configured or with how the separates are connected. +1

hey i have a 51h84 and i had to replace all 3 screens but i didnt get the protector screen so i only have lentacular and the other one, but when i replaced them im not sure if it matters what way they face, the originals were shattered so i had no reference to go by, so i noticed a sticker on the bottom of the screens, i know the first screen had the sticker on the bottom left but what about the other screen. my problem is im trying to figure out why my screen has a darker tint on the sides, unless im am directly in front perfectly of the tv the left or right side get a darkness come across as i move my head left or right as if in the middle im looking at the mirror then i can see where the mirror ends on the left and right side and its darker, im not sure if the screens may not be facing the right way or if the screen may be sagging or something but it never did it before i replaced the screens, before no matter where i was looking at the screen the whole picture was the same not having a dark Shawow come across as i move from one side of the room to the other. im not sure if im explaining it well but does anyone understand and have any ideas what could be wrong? also it has a kind of 3 d distortion look at times. i guess its kind of like the mirror is a light and the parts of the screen not directly in front of the mirror isnt a bright. but top and bottom are fine its just left to right gets the "shadow" across as i move

hey i have a 51h84 and i had to replace all 3 screens but i didnt get the protector screen so i only have lentacular and the other one, but when i replaced them im not sure if it matters what way they face, the originals were shattered so i had no reference to go by, so i noticed a sticker on the bottom of the screens, i know the first screen had the sticker on the bottom left but what about the other screen. my problem is im trying to figure out why my screen has a darker tint on the sides, unless im am directly in front perfectly of the tv the left or right side get a darkness come across as i move my head left or right as if in the middle im looking at the mirror then i can see where the mirror ends on the left and right side and its darker, im not sure if the screens may not be facing the right way or if the screen may be sagging or something but it never did it before i replaced the screens, before no matter where i was looking at the screen the whole picture was the same not having a dark Shawow come across as i move from one side of the room to the other. im not sure if im explaining it well but does anyone understand and have any ideas what could be wrong? also it has a kind of 3 d distortion look at times. i guess its kind of like the mirror is a light and the parts of the screen not directly in front of the mirror isnt a bright. but top and bottom are fine its just left to right gets the "shadow" across as i move


The fresnel has the concentric circles etched into it, and this side faces AWAY from the mirror, winding up against the lenticular sheet. The other side of it will be smooth, and it faces IN towards the mirror.

The lenticular has vertical ribs in it, and if there is a darkened coating on the tops of these ribs, that goes TOWARDS you as you look at the set. If there are ribs on only 1 side of the sheet, those ribs also FACE you - face outwards towards you as you look at the set, where you can run a fingernail backwards horizontally across them lightly and hear a "z-z-z-z-zzip".

If neither of those descriptions apply, then place the LEAST reflective side of the sheet towards you as you face the set.

These screens must face correctly, or all sorts of things like you're describing will occur, and can be most infuriating!

;)

Mr Bob

thank u so much, im going to check it when i get out of work, i know the fresnal is in right its the lenstacular one i think is backward, i know both side have some kind of a etching but i remeber one side having deeper grooves and i think i put tha facing in. but hopefully that will fix my problem thanks again

im sure its been asked many times, but anyone know where i can get a service manual downloaded

i reversed the screens and my first problem is gone but now the side and 5 or 6 inchs in from side edges are blurry mainly when something white is showing like letter and the convergence screen. i set the convergence throught the service menu but the sides are still blurry but the center is perfectly clear any ideas?

i reversed the screens and my first problem is gone but now the side and 5 or 6 inchs in from side edges are blurry mainly when something white is showing like letter and the convergence screen. i set the convergence throught the service menu but the sides are still blurry but the center is perfectly clear any ideas?

Blurry can be from focusing or from convergence. You gotta delineate between the 2 to find out what you gotta do. Torch Mode can also set you up for automatic blurriness on the trimpot focusing, making bright areas have a different focusing result than dim areas, which is one reason we say that midpoint on contrast level is best, rather than Torch Mode.

Focus often is IN at the center while being a bit OFF at the edges on the optical focusing, due to limitations on the lenses and how well designed they are. The smaller screen sizes often have inexpensive lenses that need to be averaged in terms of center to edge focusing, with 1/3 out from center in all directions being tightest.

Focusing has to be done monocolor. One easy way is separating the images diagonally with the crosshairs, then going back to your grid that way to actually do the work.

Convergence can be limited by how well designed the conv sys is. Most conv sys's can do exemplary work in the center of the screen but some can fail miserably out at the edges. The best ones - Mit, Pioneer and Panasonic - get you all the way out to the edges, with that last inch plus having to be sacrificed if you overscan reduce. Mit and Pio have invisible points out beyond the visible image, which can be used to make the visible image tighter. Panasonic has the Peri option, which allows recontouring of the last 2 point sets out from center against each other, delivering not perfect but at least silky smooth blending of the conv at those areas.

Ceiling pjs are not limited like that. They can get you all the way out to the edges with no special treatment at all, due to a much more expansive conv sys, with a lot more capacity to do whatever you need done.

The correct sequence is to dead nail the focusing, then dead nail the convergence, using a half/midpoint (except for Mit) setting on the Contrast bargraph. Mit contrast on their HDreadys is already 80-90% up at the center/midpoint of the bargraph. Actual contrast MP is at about the 35-40% up setting.


Mr Bob

im sure its been asked many times, but anyone know where i can get a service manual downloaded

i have one--pm me with your email address and i'll get it to you--acrobat format.

since the service manual does not have a full compliment of service menu factory settings--anyone know where to find a full list????

I am assuming the H83 and HX93 are similar enough - we used to have the former and took advantage of the DVI "upgrade" program MANY years ago.

Here's my question. I just bought a mac mini and hooked it up to my TV via DVI. All is well except the image needs to be shifted to the right about an inch. I have tried a custom resolution on the computer but have had no luck with that. I am considering getting into the service menu of the TV instead. However, I would want to shift the picture of the DVI input only - not any of the other inputs. Does anyone know if each input is adjusted separately? If I am in the DVI input when I go into service mode am I only changing the screen position of the DVI input?

My TV is slowly dying (built-in digital tuners do not pull in channels well, screen freezes often and I have to use the reset button) so I am no too concerned with messing things up.

Thanks in advance.

since the service manual does not have a full compliment of service menu factory settings--anyone know where to find a full list????

Access to lists that contain what the sm does on Tosh's requires a NDA - nondisclosure agreement. Only those in the trade usually get them. You'll probably have to hire a calibrator to work with those settings.


Mr Bob

I am assuming the H83 and HX93 are similar enough - we used to have the former and took advantage of the DVI "upgrade" program MANY years ago.

Here's my question. I just bought a mac mini and hooked it up to my TV via DVI. All is well except the image needs to be shifted to the right about an inch. I have tried a custom resolution on the computer but have had no luck with that. I am considering getting into the service menu of the TV instead. However, I would want to shift the picture of the DVI input only - not any of the other inputs. Does anyone know if each input is adjusted separately? If I am in the DVI input when I go into service mode am I only changing the screen position of the DVI input?

My TV is slowly dying (built-in digital tuners do not pull in channels well, screen freezes often and I have to use the reset button) so I am no too concerned with messing things up.

Thanks in advance.

You should be. The ways to get HD to your set these days are cheap and plentiful, allowing your set to stay completely useful as a monitor, even if not as a true HDTV with built-in ATSC tuner. True HDTVs are sexy, but they can't even bring in pay channels!

The Mac mini is just one of many ways to do it. Cable, satellite, OTA tuners, etc. They used to be way out in the ozone as to price, but these days are very affordable. I saw a Pinnacle ATSC tuner for your laptop for $80 recently at Yugster, and one on Woot went for $20 before I knew about Woot.

I DK the answer to your other questions, but I have never seen this kind of shift problem with the normal ATSC tuners out there. If the Mac mini doesn't do it right, get one that does, but don't consider your set expendable simply because you can't make THAT tuner operate correctly on it.


:eek:

Mr Bob

I have a 50HX81 which is about 6 years old. TV has slowly been getting worse over time but now it is totally unusable. Started at the top of the screen, couldn't get it to converge and then it started to get some zig zag lines across it now the entire screen is this way and I am clueliess as to what is wrong with it. Main purpose of this TV is just for kids to play Wii on. Thing that I find confusing is that the menu screens are perfectly clear but the signal either from the Wii or from the Cable imput is all scrambled with zig zag lines. Any help on what might be out of wack.

I have a 50HX81 which is about 6 years old. TV has slowly been getting worse over time but now it is totally unusable. Started at the top of the screen, couldn't get it to converge and then it started to get some zig zag lines across it now the entire screen is this way and I am clueliess as to what is wrong with it. Main purpose of this TV is just for kids to play Wii on. Thing that I find confusing is that the menu screens are perfectly clear but the signal either from the Wii or from the Cable imput is all scrambled with zig zag lines. Any help on what might be out of wack.

The menu uses graphics that are sent in later than the video chain's images. So if it's not a convergence issue, it might be lack of sync in the hor or vertical component of your video signal.


Mr Bob

I have a 50HX81 which is about 6 years old. TV has slowly been getting worse over time but now it is totally unusable. Started at the top of the screen, couldn't get it to converge and then it started to get some zig zag lines across it now the entire screen is this way and I am clueliess as to what is wrong with it. Main purpose of this TV is just for kids to play Wii on. Thing that I find confusing is that the menu screens are perfectly clear but the signal either from the Wii or from the Cable imput is all scrambled with zig zag lines. Any help on what might be out of wack.

This is classic Hyper Module problem on this set. There are likely bad surface mount caps in the module. When the sync starts to go the convergence looks like it is bad. Sometimes you can damage convergence outputs by running it too long like this. The module needs to have at least some of its caps changed and some common bad solder connections repaired. I suggest getting it to someone with experience with these, or you could send the board to me or to Bob (if he rebuilds them).

This is classic Hyper Module problem on this set. There are likely bad surface mount caps in the module. When the sync starts to go the convergence looks like it is bad. Sometimes you can damage convergence outputs by running it too long like this. The module needs to have at least some of its caps changed and some common bad solder connections repaired. I suggest getting it to someone with experience with these, or you could send the board to me or to Bob (if he rebuilds them).

Have not done any of these, would only take it on under the supervision of Len. So you should probably send it to him, I'll take it in if he's not free -

Mr Bob

I don't do anything for free except give advice on forums.;)

I have attached a picture of what the TV looks like if this helps at all. I don't want to spend much to get this secondary TV working. Any estimate what it might cost to fix this issue.

ok i officiazlly destroyed the tv. anyone know how to order a new front assembly and how much it costs?

Hey there everybody. I have a Toshiba 51h84 and I'm pretty new to doing any sort of maintenance on my set. I would be very grateful if someone could help me with something. After cleaning the lenses and just vacuuming the inside do I need to make any setting adjustments? Does the convergence need to be adjusted or does anything need tweaking in the service menu?

ok i officiazlly destroyed the tv. anyone know how to order a new front assembly and how much it costs?

Destroying a screen sandwich is NOT the same as destroying a TV! How did you destroy your screen???

Contact Tosh directly, or contact me directly and I'll see about getting you a Mit screen set, which is equal to or better than a Tosh set - in my experience the Mit screens are actually higher gain than the Tosh screens, with excellent side viewing characteristics - and cheaper.


Mr Bob

Destroying a screen sandwich is NOT the same as destroying a TV! How did you destroy your screen???

Contact Tosh directly, or contact me directly and I'll see about getting you a Mit screen set, which is equal to or better than a Tosh set - in my experience the Mit screens are actually higher gain than the Tosh screens, with excellent side viewing characteristics - and cheaper.


Mr Bob

wow that sounds good--heres what happened--I STUPIDLY took the thing apart in order to clean the mirror and screens. I will NEVER make that mistake again. I took out the screen sandwich and cleaned each one, and then removed the front clear panel in order to avoid reflection from lights in the back of the room.

I put them back and then noticed a strange panorama in the picture--took it apart again (now the 3rd time as i apparently missed some specs of dirt the first time) and put it back together--now the screws on the side "holders" of the screen were in tenuously at best (the top and bottom have multiple drilled holes so you can use alternate sites if one or two of the screw holes get stripped).

I then tried to put it all back and in fact did. the odd panorama was still there--i think i had put the white opaque sheet at the back instead of the darker (presumably polarization filter) on the back (inside). Now I was more than pissed but put on some norah jones to calm me down...finally got the gumption to take it apart yet again but when I went to pull it off I didn't disconnect the wire plug and all hell broke loose--the screen assembly fell down, pulled the side screen holders right off the screen assembly, and the opaque plastic panel in the assembly cracked.

SO, in sum, the opaque white screen is cracked, the two side holder metal rods will not attach to the plastic screen assembly, and I am horrified by my own incredible stupidity for taking on this task in the first place. As a result it not only looks like I ruined the screen sandwich but the plastic screen holder assembly as well (because the metal holder rods wont attach anymore.
btw what do those red wires on the inside of the screen assembly do anyway?

Hey there everybody. I have a Toshiba 51h84 and I'm pretty new to doing any sort of maintenance on my set. I would be very grateful if someone could help me with something. After cleaning the lenses and just vacuuming the inside do I need to make any setting adjustments? Does the convergence need to be adjusted or does anything need tweaking in the service menu?

having recently done this myself before destroying my screen i can assuredly tell you you DEFINITELY need to do at least a simple 9 point re-convergence (through the regular menu) after playing with anything in the service menu.

having recently done this myself before destroying my screen i can assuredly tell you you DEFINITELY need to do at least a simple 9 point re-convergence (through the regular menu) after playing with anything in the service menu.

Actually you should do that BEFORE playing with the sm level convergence. Then after only if and when necessary -


Mr Bob

btw what do those red wires on the inside of the screen assembly do anyway?

Most likely they are the auto-convergence sensors. I think Tosh calls that Touch Focus.


Mr Bob

Hi everyone, I'm noticing that the edges of my screen are blurry. The middle PQ seems nice and sharp.

When I go to do convergence, the middle crosshairs are sharp, but when I go out to the edges, they become soft and blurry. Also seem a little darker and wider.

If I go into the SM into the convergence grid, the colored square (representing R, G, or B) is a nice, sharp square. If I move to the outer part of the grid, the colored square turns into a soft, blurry rectangle.


Hopefully someone here will know what I'm trying to explain, LOL. Any help is greatly appreciated! :D

Hi everyone, I'm noticing that the edges of my screen are blurry. The middle PQ seems nice and sharp.

When I go to do convergence, the middle crosshairs are sharp, but when I go out to the edges, they become soft and blurry. Also seem a little darker and wider.

If I go into the SM into the convergence grid, the colored square (representing R, G, or B) is a nice, sharp square. If I move to the outer part of the grid, the colored square turns into a soft, blurry rectangle.


Hopefully someone here will know what I'm trying to explain, LOL. Any help is greatly appreciated! :D

The best place for your tightest optical focusing is 1/3 out from center all around. That allows for the best average, for lenses that can't focus perfectly at all point of your screen.


Mr Bob

The best place for your tightest optical focusing is 1/3 out from center all around. That allows for the best average, for lenses that can't focus perfectly at all point of your screen.


Mr Bob


I just remembered that this issue probably didn't arise until after I replaced the outer protector screen last week. I wonder now if I stacked the two inner screens in the correct direction. Could this issue be caused by the screens not being stacked correctly?

I'll try and find the time to take it apart and check in the next couple of days.

I remember one of the screens (the dark one, goes in the middle) has ribs on each side and looks identical on both sides, so is there a way to discern the correct direction with this screen?

I need to clean the lens and I need to remove the rear cover to get to the lens and I don't want to damage anything. Is there also a way to remove the screen to clean the rear of it. Thanks in advance.

I just remembered that this issue probably didn't arise until after I replaced the outer protector screen last week. I wonder now if I stacked the two inner screens in the correct direction. Could this issue be caused by the screens not being stacked correctly?

I'll try and find the time to take it apart and check in the next couple of days.

I remember one of the screens (the dark one, goes in the middle) has ribs on each side and looks identical on both sides, so is there a way to discern the correct direction with this screen?

See post #2294 of this thread -


Mr Bob

I need to clean the lens and I need to remove the rear cover to get to the lens and I don't want to damage anything. Is there also a way to remove the screen to clean the rear of it. Thanks in advance.

Removing the frame from the front is the way in for these ops. Be careful not to uproot any of the attached wiring. Unplugging it is much better, and don't let it get in the light path when you're putting it back together -


Mr Bob

i reversed the screens and my first problem is gone but now the side and 5 or 6 inchs in from side edges are blurry mainly when something white is showing like letter and the convergence screen. i set the convergence throught the service menu but the sides are still blurry but the center is perfectly clear any ideas?

I DK what you mean by reversing the screens, but if you restacked them - placed the glarescreen to the rear instead of the front - that's something I no longer do. Not only do you risk static elec drawing visible contaminants onto one screen or other in there - once I had to take it apart a third time because of that, swore never again - you risk getting your viewscreen sandwich back in there wrong.

I never reverse the screens anymore. Removing the glarescreen is very useful. Restacking your screen layer sandwich, a true pain.


Mr Bob

Removing the frame from the front is the way in for these ops. Be careful not to uproot any of the attached wiring. Unplugging it is much better, and don't let it get in the light path when you're putting it back together -


Mr Bob

How do I go about removing the front frame?

How do I go about removing the front frame?

Usually by removing Philips screws, sometimes 1/4" hex's. Been a couple years since I was inside one, but last time it was pretty straightforward, just look for the screw heads. You might need to remove one from the panel as well.


Mr Bob

Hi, I was wondering if anyone knew of a PCI-E video card I could hook up to my 57HX83 through either DVI or (more preferably) component video, in order to do some web browsing. My main desire is to use the iTunes menu coming from a Mac networked in my home office which has my CD collection on its hard drive to a PC I'm building which will be near my audio system .

I looked around on the HTPC section here but found it so confusing, with all the different models etc, that I thought my head was going to explode.:eek:

If you know of a video card that will do this relatively simply please let me know.
As I say, it's mostly just to access iTunes so I'm hoping it might be inexpensive?

Thanks in advance.

Well, most video cards will have either a dvi out, or what I use, VGA out, then a VGA to component dongle, to a component input on your TV.

Well, most video cards will have either a dvi out, or what I use, VGA out, then a VGA to component dongle, to a component input on your TV.

Thank you for your response.

I may have become confused reading about component outputs of video cards which failed to display in color. The variety of video cards is nothing short of astounding. I guess I'll just pick up an inexpensive ATI and give it a try.

Look for a Radeon HD 4550.

This post has been posted by me, by mistake on another thread. This is the correct place. Newby mistake.

I have jagged vertical lines on the TV when I first turn it on. It makes people unrecognizable for about the first 10 minutes it is turned on. The length of time the lines show up for is slowly increasing over the last couple of months. After warm up, picture is great. TV is 5 years old.

Filter cap on the power supply? Other cause? Approimate cost of repair?

Any ideas to check? I am a skilled service engineer for semiconductor manufacting equipment. I used to repair boards in the equipment back when they repaired boards in the equipment. I know about safety and I know when to back off.

Thanks for your time.

PS The picture is still great. Seems worth 2-300 bucks to fix. Or is this the first of many issues?

This post has been posted by me, by mistake on another thread. This is the correct place. Newby mistake.

I have jagged vertical lines on the TV when I first turn it on. It makes people unrecognizable for about the first 10 minutes it is turned on. The length of time the lines show up for is slowly increasing over the last couple of months. After warm up, picture is great. TV is 5 years old.

Filter cap on the power supply? Other cause? Approimate cost of repair?

Any ideas to check? I am a skilled service engineer for semiconductor manufacting equipment. I used to repair boards in the equipment back when they repaired boards in the equipment. I know about safety and I know when to back off.

Thanks for your time.

PS The picture is still great. Seems worth 2-300 bucks to fix. Or is this the first of many issues?

I saw this same thing on a Mit today. Massive pincushion, with horrible jaggedness. Came and went. Was affected by tapping on the vertical IC heat sink, so I resoldered the area around that, plus the IC itself. Seems to have solved the problem so far -


Mr Bob

I saw this same thing on a Mit today. Massive pincushion, with horrible jaggedness. Came and went. Was affected by tapping on the vertical IC heat sink, so I resoldered the area around that, plus the IC itself. Seems to have solved the problem so far -


Mr Bob

On the Toshiba this is usually the Hyper Module.

Coming in from the back, where is the hypermodule located? Does the back cover have a power interlock switch?

Thanks for your time.

The Hyper module is enclosed in a shield can and is toward the front of the set parallel to the jack panel.

Thank you.

Hey there everybody. I have a Toshiba 51h84 and I'm pretty new to doing any sort of maintenance on my set. I would be very grateful if someone could help me with something. After cleaning the lenses and just vacuuming the inside do I need to make any setting adjustments? Does the convergence need to be adjusted or does anything need tweaking in the service menu?
Ah, the wise-ass inside all of us. I saw this question and the first thing that came to mind was a response that comedian Blake Clark gave to his ex-girl friend when after dumping him and being repair challenged, she said, "Blake, the lightbulb in the bathroom is burned out. What do I do?". "Well first, you fill the tub up with water". "I haven't heard from her in 5 days!" he quipped.

I have a real question though. Vacuuming/dusting inside the chassis. If my picture looks good, should I let sleeping motes lie? If not prepared to do a total clean, avoid streaking the dust? Or is cleaning no big deal? Are all of the optics you have discussing sealed or closed off with covers? Thanks.

Cleaning of the electronics is not needed. Cleaning of the optics will generally improve the image significantly.

Today I discovered that the streaming (Component) lacks the garbled image and warm up time needed for the cable in. The component (DTV) looked great, the cable in was messed up as I have mentioned in earlier posts.
Is this consistant with the hypermodule diagnosis?
Thanks.

(Still haven't had a chance to work on this. I've just been turning it on when I walk in and by the time I get back to it, it is usually OK)

Today I discovered that the streaming (Component) lacks the garbled image and warm up time needed for the cable in. The component (DTV) looked great, the cable in was messed up as I have mentioned in earlier posts.
Is this consistant with the hypermodule diagnosis?
Thanks.

(Still haven't had a chance to work on this. I've just been turning it on when I walk in and by the time I get back to it, it is usually OK)

Your tuner is probably experiencing cold solder joints. PTS has cures for that, I would contact them if you are able to remove the affected parts from your set and send them to them.


Mr Bob

1. Is there an option in the service menu to shift/center the picture? My picture is off-center by about 3-4 inches to the right.
Is it: HPOS and VPOS? If so how do I change it safely as I have read not to push the vol up twice or the s-video inputs will be destroyed.

2. Is there an Avia/DVE for HD content (Bluray and OTA)? Is there a free alternative? Is Avia/DVE meant for Digital displays or RPTV or both?

3. I only use the DVI input, which is fed from an HTPC(SD, HD etc). Do I only need to do configuration using the HD content?

This is a great thread. Thanks everyone!

BTW: I own the 65HX83.

1. Is there an option in the service menu to shift/center the picture? My picture is off-center by about 3-4 inches to the right.
Is it: HPOS and VPOS? If so how do I change it safely as I have read not to push the vol up twice or the s-video inputs will be destroyed.



I have never heard of an HTPC that does not allow for sizing and positioning of your image. I would use that and stay away from that S video landmine, which I tripped on Lawrence Herzog's TN display years ago, down in Burbank. Toshiba came out and did a complete re-initialization of his set, to cure that problem. Perhaps you can get them to come out to do yours as well, or perhaps your particular model won't have that problem. You might want to call them on it. But your computer should remedy your sit without all that other fanfare.

2. Is there an Avia/DVE for HD content (Bluray and OTA)? Is there a free alternative? Is Avia/DVE meant for Digital displays or RPTV or both?

HD DVE comes in both HD DVD and BluRay, either one available on Amazon for under $20. It's fabulous. HD is HD, doesn't matter whether it's digital or analog, fixed pixel or CRT. HD DVE works on all of them.


3. I only use the DVI input, which is fed from an HTPC(SD, HD etc). Do I only need to do configuration using the HD content?


Calibrations are done by the scanrate, not by the input. That said, you may have discreet registers for DVI vs. component that would need individual attention.

This is a great thread. Thanks everyone!

BTW: I own the 65HX83.

Yeah! It is! Glad you found it!

;)

Mr Bob

Thanks Mr Bob for taking the time to answer these most basic questions.

I have never heard of an HTPC that does not allow for sizing and positioning of your image. I would use that and stay away from that S video landmine, which I tripped on Lawrence Hertzog's TN display years ago, down in Burbank. Toshiba came out and did a complete re-initialization of his set, to cure that problem. Perhaps you can get them to come out to do yours as well, or perhaps your particular model won't have that problem. You might want to call them on it. But your computer should remedy your sit without all that other fanfare.

Well, my HTPC program(SageTV) does have this but my bluray PC player(PowerDVD) and Wii does not have this control. I'll give Toshiba a call about this and see what they say.

HD DVE comes in both HD DVD and BluRay, either one available on Amazon for under $20. It's fabulous. HD is HD, doesn't matter whether it's digital or analog, fixed pixel or CRT. HD DVE works on all of them.
Great to hear! This will be on my Christmas list this year.

Calibrations are done by the scanrate, not by the input. That said, you may have discreet registers for DVI vs. component that would need individual attention.
Not sure what scanrate means. Does 1080i and 480p have the same scanrate?
How would I change scanrates to calibrate each of them? How do I know which scanrate I am calibrating? Is there something in the service mode that indicates this?

Thanks.

Thanks Mr Bob for taking the time to answer these most basic questions.



Well, my HTPC program(SageTV) does have this but my bluray PC player(PowerDVD) and Wii does not have this control. I'll give Toshiba a call about this and see what they say.


Great to hear! This will be on my Christmas list this year.


Not sure what scanrate means. Does 1080i and 480p have the same scanrate?
How would I change scanrates to calibrate each of them? How do I know which scanrate I am calibrating? Is there something in the service mode that indicates this?

Thanks.

480p is a scanrate that has 480 horizontal lines in it.

1080i is a scanrate that has 1080 horizontal lines in it.

They are not the same.

Have your set in the scanrate you intend to be working on when you go into the sm. Your set will work on just that scanrate, unless you tell it to change scanrates by changing inputs, or by feeding it a different scanrate via your source material. F'rinstance, some Comcast channels will be SD in 480i, others will be HD, in 1080i.

Some brands have a "Display" or "Info" button, to tell you what scanrate you are in. Some don't. Can't remember whether Tosh does or doesn't.


Mr Bob

does anyone know a link to what all the options in the service menu mean? specifically i am looking something that would be like i think a pincusion function i have seen on some monitors. my screen seems to go down in the middle and be higher on the ends.

Need some help adjusting the viewing area on my 51H84.

I have about 5-7 inches on each side of the screen that isn't viewable. This is very noticeable on channel logos like FOX or ABC that show up in the bottom right corner (part of the logo is cut off). I have no idea how to fix this and its annoying that I am not able to see the full screen.

Any help will be appreciated.

Need some help adjusting the viewing area on my 51H84.

I have about 5-7 inches on each side of the screen that isn't viewable. This is very noticeable on channel logos like FOX or ABC that show up in the bottom right corner (part of the logo is cut off). I have no idea how to fix this and its annoying that I am not able to see the full screen.

Any help will be appreciated.

This one I do know you can do in the Service menu.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/toshiba/servicemenu/accesstoservicemenu/access_servicemenu.html

As for which value changes that, I could not tell you for sure. But I know I found it once. Hopefully someone can tell us both what all the service menu values do. I would think it is somewhere on the site I linked to here or here on the AVS Forum, but I have been able to find it.

EDIT: Okay, I found some of the service menu values here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5378501&highlight=pincushion#post5378501

#1 Ok, so what is the scan rate? Is it the horiz rate, the vert rate, or a combination of both? Does 480i and 1080i have the same scan rate? What scan rate would I be in if I sent 1080p to the TV as it can only do 1080i?

Format: Total Lines: Visible Lines: Vert Rate: Horiz Rate: Bandwidth:
NTSC 525i 480i 60 Hz 15.7 kHz 5.8 MHz
NTSC 525p 480p 60 Hz 31.5 kHz 11.6 MHz


#2 So since the service modes are saved for each scan rate, I should be able to set the overscan to 0% for high definition stuff (1080i). And then I should be able to set the overscan to 5% for SD stuff (480i/480p). Is this thinking correct?

First time poster!!!!!
Say, quick question.......
I am trying to determine to buy a new flat lcd plasma or just keep my 51HX83.

Has anyone here left the DLP and gone to the other side?

If so...worth it?

What are you trying to accomplish? Unhappy with the picture? Case of upgraditis?

I have a 57hx83, and had it calibrated by LionAV, the pic is fine for BD playback.

But I may replace it to get an hdmi port, I don't like the pic from my htpc via dvi to hdmi cable.

That, and I'll be upgrading to an hdmi enabled AVR soon, and want a straight hdmi to hdmi out to my display.

Need some help adjusting the viewing area on my 51H84.

I have about 5-7 inches on each side of the screen that isn't viewable. This is very noticeable on channel logos like FOX or ABC that show up in the bottom right corner (part of the logo is cut off). I have no idea how to fix this and its annoying that I am not able to see the full screen.

Any help will be appreciated.

This is overscan, and it's endemic to the genre of CRT RPTV. Reducing it to show what's missing is the best way to handle it, but it causes your picture to get hosed beyond belief and need complete restructuring.

Best to let a fully experienced calibrator do it, because after taking the o'scan in, a complete restoration of the picture structure is needed, from the ground up.


Mr Bob

Hey guys, have a quick question that some of you may have had experience with. I have a PS3 hooked up to my 51H84 through HDMI. In the audio settings it shows that I have mono sound with no option for stereo sound. Does anyone know why that is?

On my cable tv input it is stereo sound. Why can't I get stereo from my PS3? Thanks for any input on this!

Well, it is my turn to having a problem with my 46HX83.

All of a sudden, the picture will get all fuzzy. While this is happening, it is true for all inputs, but while this is happening, if I press the "menu" button, the set's own on-screen menu will display still sharp (over the otherwise fuzzy picture).

If I hit the side of the set, the picture will return to being sharp. :D And will remain sharp for a while before snapping to fuzzy again.

I am guess (hoping) that it is just a loose cable or connection, possibly on the output of some "input switching" circuit.

Does anyone know where I can download (for free?) the schematics?

I think I found somewhere one can download the 46H84 schematics for free a while ago, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find it again. I assume that the 46H84 and my 46HX83 are similar enough, that I could figure out where such a connection or cable would be located. Can anyone help?

Well, it is my turn to having a problem with my 46HX83.

All of a sudden, the picture will get all fuzzy. While this is happening, it is true for all inputs, but while this is happening, if I press the "menu" button, the set's own on-screen menu will display still sharp (over the otherwise fuzzy picture).

If I hit the side of the set, the picture will return to being sharp. :D And will remain sharp for a while before snapping to fuzzy again.

I am guess (hoping) that it is just a loose cable or connection, possibly on the output of some "input switching" circuit.

Does anyone know where I can download (for free?) the schematics?

I think I found somewhere one can download the 46H84 schematics for free a while ago, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find it again. I assume that the 46H84 and my 46HX83 are similar enough, that I could figure out where such a connection or cable would be located. Can anyone help?

I have the service manual in pdf that includes a ton of schematics. PM me with your email and I'll send it out to you if you like. Hope that helps! :D

Well, it is my turn to having a problem with my 46HX83.

All of a sudden, the picture will get all fuzzy. While this is happening, it is true for all inputs, but while this is happening, if I press the "menu" button, the set's own on-screen menu will display still sharp (over the otherwise fuzzy picture).

If I hit the side of the set, the picture will return to being sharp. :D And will remain sharp for a while before snapping to fuzzy again.

I am guess (hoping) that it is just a loose cable or connection, possibly on the output of some "input switching" circuit.

Does anyone know where I can download (for free?) the schematics?

I think I found somewhere one can download the 46H84 schematics for free a while ago, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find it again. I assume that the 46H84 and my 46HX83 are similar enough, that I could figure out where such a connection or cable would be located. Can anyone help?

"Fuzzy", like blurry, can be one or both of 2 things: out of focus or out of convergence.

Whapping a set and having it go back to normal ALWAYS indicates cold solder joints somewhere in there.

If your fuzzy is convergence going out, you need to get the legs of your converegnce ICs resoldered before the ICs get overstressed and croak. If you keep them running when it is in its bad condition, the ICs are not being connected on all cylinders, pushing the IC way out of its design parameters.

The legs of conv ICs going cold solder happens all the time in CRT RPTV tech. Those ICs are workhorses in there, and run ungodly hot. Heat/cold causes expansion/contraction. Over and over and that eventually translates into cold solder joints.

If this just started and you are not running the set while hurt - you turn it off anytime this happens - your ICs have been protected and are just fine. Once it gets to the point where whapping it is not helping anymore and it stays broken no matter what, then it has gone over to the dark side and your ICs will need to be replaced.

You don't need a schematic when cold solder joints are involved.


Mr Bob

"Fuzzy", like blurry, can be one or both of 2 things: out of focus or out of convergence.

Whapping a set and having it go back to normal ALWAYS indicates cold solder joints somewhere in there.

If your fuzzy is convergence going out, you need to get the legs of your converegnce ICs resoldered before the ICs get overstressed and croak. If you keep them running when it is in its bad condition, the ICs are not being connected on all cylinders, pushing the IC way out of its design parameters.

The legs of conv ICs going cold solder happens all the time in CRT RPTV tech. Those ICs are workhorses in there, and run ungodly hot. Heat/cold causes expansion/contraction. Over and over and that eventually translates into cold solder joints.

If this just started and you are not running the set while hurt - you turn it off anytime this happens - your ICs have been protected and are just fine. Once it gets to the point where whapping it is not helping anymore and it stays broken no matter what, then it has gone over to the dark side and your ICs will need to be replaced.

You don't need a schematic when cold solder joints are involved.


Mr Bob

Thanks Mr. Bob!

Though I am shying away from anything with the "display" side of things like focus and convergence right now since, as I mentioned, the TV's own menus are displaying sharp and clear when this is happening. I would think that if it was a general "display" issue, that the menus would be just as fuzzy as the picture behind them. They're not.

I thought the schematics would help lead me to locate a common place where all the input sources (including the tuners) converge, but before the set adds its menus, as a possible location for a loose connection or bad solder joint. Someplace to start, if nothing else.

Thanks Mr. Bob!

Though I am shying away from anything with the "display" side of things like focus and convergence right now since, as I mentioned, the TV's own menus are displaying sharp and clear when this is happening. I would think that if it was a general "display" issue, that the menus would be just as fuzzy as the picture behind them. They're not.

I thought the schematics would help lead me to locate a common place where all the input sources (including the tuners) converge, but before the set adds its menus, as a possible location for a loose connection or bad solder joint. Someplace to start, if nothing else.

The menus have no convergence, they are always single color. So you can be misconverged all over the place, and the menu graphics will still be sharp, as long as the focus is sharp.

Sounds like a convergence problem to me, if your menu graphics are sharp but your picture is not. It's very rare for the focusing to just go out, on these things. Not rare at all for the convergence to have problems that need remedying.


Mr Bob

Anyone know what the factory setting for the RCUT tab under the Service Menu? Was trying to fix some things in the service menu and changed this on accident and never logged the normal settings... :(

Please help

The factory setting for your set would have been specific to your set. The setting needed now that it has aged would be different still. It should be set so that you get the best gray scale possible.

Thanks for the help Icaillo!

How do you go about fixing it with little knowledge of what to do? And if you pay someone to come out and do it, what is an average price I should expect?

Hi guys, I'm still pretty happy with my 46H84 some 4 years later! I was going to follow the cleaning guide I printed out from here quite some time ago and clean my lenses. I was wondering what type of cleaner I should use on the lenses? Thanks for any suggestions.

Well... have had this set for 3 1/2 years. This is in a family room and it still gives a great picture (it was totally tweaked and calibrated), but I'm starting to see a little tube wear from 4:3 images (wife/kids refuse to expand image). I'm probably going to replace this soon with a new LCD display that the wife/kids can't screw up, but I'm undecided about whether to replace the tubes and give this set to parents for their lake house, or just sell it for beans.

Any idea what it would cost for a set of new or refurbished tubes? Is it even worth it for this set to consider? I only paid $900 new for it on a BB special.

WaltA -

I just remembered that Tosh's don't necessarily have monocolor menus. So the re. single-color menus above may not be on, after all -

:o

Mr Bob

Thanks for the help Icaillo!

How do you go about fixing it with little knowledge of what to do? And if you pay someone to come out and do it, what is an average price I should expect?

The Cuts affect the darks and have very little effect on the brights. So put up dark material, and use Rcut make sure your darks and blacks don't have an overabundance of reddishness to them.

OTOH, also make sure they don't have an overabundance of the corollary color - cyan, or blue-green/turquoise, which is the lack of red.

When your blacks and dark grays are midpointed between those 2 extremes of too much or too little red in the darks, that's your best case scenario.


Mr Bob

Hi guys, I'm still pretty happy with my 46H84 some 4 years later! I was going to follow the cleaning guide I printed out from here quite some time ago and clean my lenses. I was wondering what type of cleaner I should use on the lenses? Thanks for any suggestions.

Sprayway.

Well... have had this set for 3 1/2 years. This is in a family room and it still gives a great picture (it was totally tweaked and calibrated), but I'm starting to see a little tube wear from 4:3 images (wife/kids refuse to expand image). I'm probably going to replace this soon with a new LCD display that the wife/kids can't screw up, but I'm undecided about whether to replace the tubes and give this set to parents for their lake house, or just sell it for beans.

Any idea what it would cost for a set of new or refurbished tubes? Is it even worth it for this set to consider? I only paid $900 new for it on a BB special.

If the only screenburn you have is from the sidebars, arrange a pattern where you can age the sidebar areas to the same aging as the 4x3 area.

If you know powerpoint you can do that. Someone sent me patterns to do that with years ago, God knows where they are now...

:(

Mr Bob

If the only screenburn you have is from the sidebars, arrange a pattern where you can age the sidebar areas to the same aging as the 4x3 area.

If you know powerpoint you can do that. Someone sent me patterns to do that with years ago, God knows where they are now...

:(

Mr Bob

Thanks for the suggestion. Interesting idea. All my computers have a VGA connector for outboard display, except for a single desktop my wife uses, which has a DVI output. The input on this set takes HDMI and component. I suppose I could get an HDMI to DVI adapter and try that.

So, assuming you're correct, that may take awhile to accomplish. I'm wondering if there is a DVE pattern that would accomplish this? I guess I'll look through the HD-DVD Video Essentials to see if there is. That would sure be easier.

I have been reading and searching through this entire thread for many days. The revelation that the front screen could be taken off was great news to me. I have been reading more before I set out to do it. I have had a feeling that it couldn't be done though and here is why: My set, the 65hx83 Cinema Series does not have the trim bezel that wraps to the front of the screen. I can see the entire front screen (the outer 1-1/4" or so is painted black from the inside). If I take this off I will see something unsightly I am sure around the perimeter. Pictures on this forum at thread #1779 show a bezel that wraps the front of the screen which mine does not. I am unsure what holds the screen in at this point. There must be brackets or studs glued to it from the inside. I just found the below quote from hometheaterforum comparing TW to CS (TW is theater wide and CS is Cinema Series):
The anti-reflective screen on the CS is not very anti-reflective at all. Seeing the two units side by side, glare was about the same.

The TW series permits you to take the glare screen off ... which improves the image a lot. The CS does not...

This confirms my thoughts that I cannot take my front screen off. I have the tv in a great room that I cannot control the light very well. If I get direct reflective lights turned off, I can still see everything in front of the screen as a reflection (black chairs and black clothes do not fix the problem).
Any comments on the ability to remove my front screen? It seems my next recourse is to find a replacement screen that actually reduces the reflection/glare.
Also, does anyone know of a good ISF calibrater in the Seattle area (east of Seattle 30 miles)?
Thank you,

I have been reading and searching through this entire thread for many days. The revelation that the front screen could be taken off was great news to me. I have been reading more before I set out to do it. I have had a feeling that it couldn't be done though and here is why: My set, the 65hx83 Cinema Series does not have the trim bezel that wraps to the front of the screen. I can see the entire front screen (the outer 1-1/4" or so is painted black from the inside). If I take this off I will see something unsightly I am sure around the perimeter. Pictures on this forum at thread #1779 show a bezel that wraps the front of the screen which mine does not. I am unsure what holds the screen in at this point. There must be brackets or studs glued to it from the inside. I just found the below quote from hometheaterforum comparing TW to CS (TW is theater wide and CS is Cinema Series):
The anti-reflective screen on the CS is not very anti-reflective at all. Seeing the two units side by side, glare was about the same.

The TW series permits you to take the glare screen off ... which improves the image a lot. The CS does not...

This confirms my thoughts that I cannot take my front screen off. I have the tv in a great room that I cannot control the light very well. If I get direct reflective lights turned off, I can still see everything in front of the screen as a reflection (black chairs and black clothes do not fix the problem).
Any comments on the ability to remove my front screen? It seems my next recourse is to find a replacement screen that actually reduces the reflection/glare.
Also, does anyone know of a good ISF calibrater in the Seattle area (east of Seattle 30 miles)?
Thank you,

The viewscreen sandwich - including your glarescreen, the third layer - is usually held in by Philips screws, plain and simple, tho the autoconv sensors sometimes have to be dealt with also -


b

Hi All,

I've been lurking here for a while and doing a lot of reading as of late. I picked up a used 51HX84 off CraigsList a while back, and during the pre-sale demo it looked great (if not a tiny bit soft).

After bringing it home, the blue was a bit out of focus, and I discovered my HDMI module is faulty :( (breaks handshaking and the video signal is heavily clipped while watching DVE). After a couple months I got fed up and decided to do a cleaning (after doing some reading on these forums). I removed the screen, and cleaned the primary (final) optics, and mirror, and dusted the screen. While in there I noticed that the adjustment screw for the blue lense was loose. I did my best to refocus by adjusting it with a cloth over the R and G crt's, but I had to reattach the screen each time (TV was set to the convergence adjustment screen - user menu) to check focus... was frustrating and eventually gave up at a "just enough".

I know this should be much sharper. I have adjusted the electrical focus as best as I can tell using the Focus VR's, but I pulled a stupid move and adjusted the Screen VR's and ended up destroying my white balance.

I have picked up a Spyder2 and installed HCFR, and right now my RGB's are wayyy off. (See pic)
http://lh4.google.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SU1TU2vT9qI/AAAAAAAADiE/QqWjJ689k9s/s800/51hx84%20-%20standard%20-%20component%20-%20def%20color.jpg

I understand there are some sensitivity issues with the Spyder2 (being cheap), but I'm on a student budget. :)

Anyway, I need some help if at all possible. I can't really afford an ISF let alone a out of warranty service tech right now, and I am a computer technician by day so I am reasonably comfortable working on this stuff. *CRT's scare me a bit, as long as I know what NOT to touch though...*

I need to get my optical focus under control first, then I can start to deal with my white balance. I've got a copy of the service manual, but it is very vague about focusing each CRT without having the screen on. Something about looking directly into the lense and adjusting the Screen VR, but I think the Japanese -> English translation is in typical Engrish.

Is there a tried-and-true technique to optically adjust my lenses? Convergence is reasonably good, geometry is reasonably good, so I do not want to physically move the projectors aside from lense adjustment if at all possible.

Old pic from before messing up the Screen VR's:
(Canon EOS 20D, 10-22mm F4(? cant remember))

http://lh5.google.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SU1TvdxadHI/AAAAAAAADiM/nD8s2eJXvwA/s800/_MG_0010.JPG

Many Thanks,

Ian

Hi All,

Is there a tried-and-true technique to optically adjust my lenses? Convergence is reasonably good, geometry is reasonably good, so I do not want to physically move the projectors aside from lense adjustment if at all possible.

Many Thanks,

Ian

I recommend the Cantilever Technique. It's tried and true and has been serving me well in all my calibrations for more than a decade so far -


b

I'm looking to upgrade in picture size.

I have a 51" Hitachi 51F500 that I have tweaked and really like - just want bigger.

I've got a line on a 65" Tosh - 65H83, but I think the asking price is steep at $1000 CDN.

What would be a reasonable price for this TV?

I don't know the previous owner's viewing habits, but if I go through with it (at a better price) what should I be looking for WRT maintenace issues?

I'm looking to upgrade in picture size.

I have a 51" Hitachi 51F500 that I have tweaked and really like - just want bigger.

I've got a line on a 65" Tosh - 65H83, but I think the asking price is steep at $1000 CDN.

What would be a reasonable price for this TV?

I don't know the previous owner's viewing habits, but if I go through with it (at a better price) what should I be looking for WRT maintenace issues?


A well treated CRT RPTV has normal hours or less on the guns - several hours a day of use is normal - it has been used with Contrast set at midpoint or below, and there is no screenburn.

You check for screenburn with an all white screen, like a fade to white.


b

What type of lamps/bulbs does the 57H83 use? My manual mentions nothing about them that I can find. I can only find info on Toshiba DLP lamps online.

Also, I seem to recall many years ago when researching RPTVs that another Toshiba (65HX83?) used "better" bulbs. Is it possible to put in "better" bulbs than the ones originally in the 57H83?

Apologies for vague use of "better" and any misuse of lamp vs bulb. It's been like 4 years since I even read up on anything RPTV related so I forget everything.

What type of lamps/bulbs does the 57H83 use? My manual mentions nothing about them that I can find. I can only find info on Toshiba DLP lamps online.

Also, I seem to recall many years ago when researching RPTVs that another Toshiba (65HX83?) used "better" bulbs. Is it possible to put in "better" bulbs than the ones originally in the 57H83?

Apologies for vague use of "better" and any misuse of lamp vs bulb. It's been like 4 years since I even read up on anything RPTV related so I forget everything.

Lamps/bulbs are for fixed pixel. CRT triple-guns like yours - and mine - use CRTs.

There may theoretically be better guns for your unit, but I doubt it. You use what your set came with. I have never heard of varying qualities of 7" CRT, tho 9" CRTs would be better than 7", (and no the 65" version didn't use 9" guns, it used 7" guns). But it would take a substantial redesign of your set to equip it with 9" guns, have never heard of that either. LENSES can be better on one model series than another...

Don't worry, your set can be tricked out like nobody's business with your current guns, as long as they have been well treated - medium light levels at all times rather than Torch Mode, and no screenburn.

Your set is only at cruising age. It has many happy years left in it. Get it cleaned and calibrated and enjoy the heck out of it.


b

I have a toshiba 46h83 hooked up to a ps3 via an hdmi to dvi cable. The picture has always been a little dark so i got the avia II disc. When i ran the standard brightness test i couldn't see the moving bars at all (even with the brightness turned all the way up). Here is a list of the sm settings and regular menu settings.
RCUT 50H (i turned this down because it was way to red)
GCUT 74H
BCUT 80H
RDRV 58H
BDRV 4CH
BRTC 80H
TNTC 47H (when this is scrolled to the picture becomes very very dark, like a color negative)
SCOL 4DH same with this setting
SCNT 02H black and white

Is that normal for those last three values?

CNTRAST 50
BRIGHTNESS 46
COLOR 45
TINT -10
SHARPNESS 30
ALS OFF
FLESH TONE OFF
TEMP MEDIUM

any help would be great
thanks in advance Dave

I have a toshiba 46h83 hooked up to a ps3 via an hdmi to dvi cable. The picture has always been a little dark so i got the avia II disc. When i ran the standard brightness test i couldn't see the moving bars at all (even with the brightness turned all the way up). Here is a list of the sm settings and regular menu settings.
RCUT 50H (i turned this down because it was way to red)
GCUT 74H
BCUT 80H
RDRV 58H
BDRV 4CH
BRTC 80H
TNTC 47H (when this is scrolled to the picture becomes very very dark, like a color negative)
SCOL 4DH same with this setting
SCNT 02H black and white

Is that normal for those last three values?

CNTRAST 50
BRIGHTNESS 46
COLOR 45
TINT -10
SHARPNESS 30
ALS OFF
FLESH TONE OFF
TEMP MEDIUM

any help would be great
thanks in advance Dave


I have noticed that the PS3 will not do blacker than black, my reference being the HD version of DVE. That's why you don't see the bars move no matter where your br is set. You have to get a better BD player. Not having btb is definitely a downgrade in performance, when you don't have the proper shadow detail in your images. It's like not having the "singe" in your highs in high-end audio. You know it doesn't sound like LIVE would, but can't quite pin it down because it's hard to know what you don't have, when you don't have it. You only know what you're missing once you DO have it.

Those things you noticed in the sm are all normal for your set.


b

I have noticed that the PS3 will not do blacker than black, my reference being the HD version of DVE. That's why you don't see the bars move no matter where your br is set. You have to get a better BD player. Not having btb is definitely a downgrade in performance, when you don't have the proper shadow detail in your images. It's like not having the "singe" in your highs in high-end audio. You know it doesn't sound like LIVE would, but can't quite pin it down because it's hard to know what you don't have, when you don't have it. You only know what you're missing once you DO have it.

Those things you noticed in the sm are all normal for your set.


b

when i ran the avia on the ps3 in the other room (westinghouse lcd) all the tests worked fine. I read somewhere on here that the dvi input has some black issues. i'll try hooking it up with a component cable and let you know if there is any difference. thanks for the quick reply

when i ran the avia on the ps3 in the other room (westinghouse lcd) all the tests worked fine. I read somewhere on here that the dvi input has some black issues. i'll try hooking it up with a component cable and let you know if there is any difference. thanks for the quick reply

The last CRT RPTV I played with had the lack of btb issues out of component, and it was a Pioneer 710 from '99. Perhaps the issues with the PS3 are not HDMI or DVI related issues, but component related issues.


b

guys, I've been watching DVDs on a relative's Toshiba 57" H81 TV, and I'm quite impressed with how DVDs look!

This is a CRT projection set, I gather from the thread? Motion seems really nice, is that an aspect of CRT projection - is CRT projection better for motion than DLP? It certainly seems better than my 650 LCD I just bought, for motion anyway.

guys, I've been watching DVDs on a relative's Toshiba 57" H81 TV, and I'm quite impressed with how DVDs look!

This is a CRT projection set, I gather from the thread? Motion seems really nice, is that an aspect of CRT projection - is CRT projection better for motion than DLP? It certainly seems better than my 650 LCD I just bought, for motion anyway.


Oh yes. With fixed pixel you need to get a 120Hz or 240Hz capable system to reduce the judder. Saw with and without examples on displays at CES in January, it was quite revealing.

CRT has never had a problem with that.

You might want to check out post #4408 at this thread -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=147


b

Oh yes. With fixed pixel you need to get a 120Hz or 240Hz capable system to reduce the judder. Saw with and without examples on displays at CES in January, it was quite revealing.

CRT has never had a problem with that.

You might want to check out post #4408 at this thread -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=147


b

Bob -

Have you ever added an after-market hdmi port to one of these tv's, and if yes, what were the results?

How do one of these add-on hdmi ports differ from the end results of an hdmi to dvi converter cable?

Gene

Bob -

Have you ever added an after-market hdmi port to one of these tv's, and if yes, what were the results?

How do one of these add-on hdmi ports differ from the end results of an hdmi to dvi converter cable?

Gene

Will be doing that soon, as soon as things die down a bit. But I have seen the HD Fury 2 in action on a ceiling pj, and was definitely impressed.

See the bottom of the cover page of my website for links.

HDMI converter cable between DVI and HDMI does just that, and nothing else. No changes in the picture quality.


b

guys, I've been watching DVDs on a relative's Toshiba 57" H81 TV, and I'm quite impressed with how DVDs look!

Ironically, DVD's (480i/p) are one of the major weaknesses of that set. That was the worst year of the 480i/p -> 540p conversion issues.

Ironically, DVD's (480i/p) are one of the major weaknesses of that set. That was the worst year of the 480i/p -> 540p conversion issues.

I'm trying to get them to get a Blu-Ray player, no luck. :)

I'm mainly impressed by the movie screen like look of the picture - and the motion smoothness.

I'm trying to get them to get a Blu-Ray player, no luck. :)

I'm mainly impressed by the movie screen like look of the picture - and the motion smoothness.

BluRay is not the only way to get true HD to your set. There's cable, sat, OTA. Cable costs only $5-10 more a month for the HD content version, you don't need to BUY anything, to get true HD.

Cheap HD-DVD player, I'm sure they are liquidating them used on the auction sites, and you can get the discs for it really cheap from various online venues. I've seen them as low as $3.99. It's worth it to pick one of the players up cheap just for the movies that are still available, from various online sources. I did, and have a world of movies waiting for it that I'll prolly never even get to.

Your set is wasted if just used for 480i/540p. It really shines on 1080i, that's where it excells, with several times the pixel density of 480/540.

Hope its optics are crystal clear clean.


b

BluRay is not the only way to get true HD to your set. There's cable, sat, OTA.

The home owner has HD cable on the 32" LCD he watches, but is too cheap to get a 2nd HD box for the 57" which he doesn't use, that's the kind of person we're talking about. The only reason he has the big Toshiba is cause he got it for free (and he hates it, preferring his 32" LCD).

I've only suggested Blu-Ray cause the DVD player is on the fritz. I almost brought my own player during the holidays just to see what 1080i looks like on the Toshiba. My wife and I visit quite often and watch movies on the 57" Toshiba.

The home owner has HD cable on the 32" LCD he watches, but is too cheap to get a 2nd HD box for the 57" which he doesn't use, that's the kind of person we're talking about. The only reason he has the big Toshiba is cause he got it for free (and he hates it, preferring his 32" LCD).

I've only suggested Blu-Ray cause the DVD player is on the fritz. I almost brought my own player during the holidays just to see what 1080i looks like on the Toshiba. My wife and I visit quite often and watch movies on the 57" Toshiba.

Looks like the only way for any progress is if you do it...


b

I have been reading and searching through this entire thread for many days. The revelation that the front screen could be taken off was great news to me. I have been reading more before I set out to do it. I have had a feeling that it couldn't be done though and here is why: My set, the 65hx83 Cinema Series does not have the trim bezel that wraps to the front of the screen. I can see the entire front screen (the outer 1-1/4" or so is painted black from the inside). If I take this off I will see something unsightly I am sure around the perimeter. Pictures on this forum at thread #1779 show a bezel that wraps the front of the screen which mine does not. I am unsure what holds the screen in at this point. There must be brackets or studs glued to it from the inside. I just found the below quote from hometheaterforum comparing TW to CS (TW is theater wide and CS is Cinema Series):
The anti-reflective screen on the CS is not very anti-reflective at all. Seeing the two units side by side, glare was about the same.

The TW series permits you to take the glare screen off ... which improves the image a lot. The CS does not...

This confirms my thoughts that I cannot take my front screen off. I have the tv in a great room that I cannot control the light very well. If I get direct reflective lights turned off, I can still see everything in front of the screen as a reflection (black chairs and black clothes do not fix the problem).
Any comments on the ability to remove my front screen? It seems my next recourse is to find a replacement screen that actually reduces the reflection/glare.
Also, does anyone know of a good ISF calibrater in the Seattle area (east of Seattle 30 miles)?
Thank you,

Here is an update:
I took my screen/bezel off today. Here is a picture of the front before taking it off, showing the front protective screen going in front of the wrapping bezel. Also, there is a picture of the inside of the screen sandwich and bezel. The front protective screen is adhered to the bezel probably with 2 sided tape all of the way around. The long clamp strips clamp the 2 remaining screen layers to the front screen. If I somehow got the front screen off without damaging it or the bezel (very hard to do because of good tape or glue) there would be nothing to clamp the remaining 2 screens to. One thing I can think of is actually cutting out the center 95% of the front screen and leaving only the perimeter to have a clamping surface. I would not do this, but I would consider making a perimeter front out of maybe haircel ABS or wood painted black and then 2 sided taping this to the bezel (again assuming I could get the original front screen away from the bezel).
The only other option I know of is getting an aftermarket front screen (59.25 x 35.44") that is nonreflective, but I am dubious of this because the original is supposed to be low relection, which it is absolutely not.
Oh, and I cleaned the mirror and 3 guns which were surprisingly not too bad at all after not having done it before.
Any suggestions?
Thank you,

http://www.glarestopper.com/glare.php

I am not sure, but the above $200 cut to size and shipped screen might be this material that can be had for much less from local distributors:
http://www.cyro.com/methacrylates/us/products/sheet_products/products/performance/acryliteantireflectivesheet/default.htm

Ok, now I am sure after looking here:
http://www.cyro.com/NR/rdonlyres/84468B5B-7FAF-4194-A0A6-12FE85717EEA/0/3075BAntiReflectiveSellSheet.pdf

Would anyone know the convergence grid measurements I'd need for a 57HX83?

James, thanks for the screen info, I need to replace the outer screen on my set, the kids managed to put a couple good scratches in it, the factory one has an anti-glare coating which has also started to rub off in spots from cleaning it. I will look into the material you listed this week, there are some dealers in the area per their search.

Hey guys, my son was fiddling with the service menu to get his ps3 to fit on the screen. The picture was too large and wouldn't fit. However he didn't write down any of the factory default numbers and now the picture is all out of whack. Is there anyone that can give me the original numbers and if not if I bought the service manual would that help? Appreciate any help thanks.

What model TV Steven84?

Oh I guess I should have mentioned it before. It is a 57h84. It may be the 57H84C. I live in Canada if that is what the C stands for.

If anyone has the numbers for the 46H83 as well, it would be appreciated. I'm not having any major problems, but I know I have a couple of things out of whack. (For one thing, Touch Focus doesn't work. It errors out.)

If anyone has the numbers for the 46H83 as well, it would be appreciated. I'm not having any major problems, but I know I have a couple of things out of whack. (For one thing, Touch Focus doesn't work. It errors out.)

Try unplugging it, wait 5 minutes, and then in again.

If that doesn't do it, is there any chance the pic size has been reduced too much? Then it would not see the sensors at the edges.


b

I have a 57h83, bought new in '03.

Had it calibrated in '06.

With hi-def input via dvi port I have exaggerated yellow tint, first with a Tosh HD_DVD player, and now Panny BD35 blu-ray does exact same thing.

Both used a Monoprice hdmi to dvi cable direct to my dvi input of the tv.

I think the dvi port is at fault.

Anyone else notice excess yellow tint when using dvi input?

Anyway, LionAV calibrated the component input 2 years ago, I'm getting another calibration scheduled for the dvi input for later this month.

I'm upgrading my TV in my basement and moving this one to my living room, but i have to find a stand that my wife will accept in the livingroom. In my basement with this TV I built one and carpeted it, but that won't fly upstairs. Does anybody have any pics of what they are currently using? With the weight and size of this thing I would like to get some ideas. I looked online to see if I could find the Toshiba stand that was sold seperately, But i don't think there are any out there. Thanks.

After learning through HCFR and refocusing again, and again, and again....

Here's some screenshots of my 51HX84. :)

Camera was a Canon EOS 20D w/ 18-55 kit lense, Aperture-priority mode, was around F/6 to F/4... 100 ISO on tripod.

Lense caused a bit of vignetting I noticed and was a bit blurry. :(

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW77Th7I5sI/AAAAAAAADrM/DGbhPyCV9iY/s800/_MG_0196.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW77Th7I5sI/AAAAAAAADrM/DGbhPyCV9iY/s800/_MG_0196.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW76PZagF7I/AAAAAAAADrI/VrWXmiq6nW0/s800/_MG_0308.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW75-nBsKAI/AAAAAAAADrE/BoEUFcndKNo/s800/_MG_0303.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW75jQMXvDI/AAAAAAAADq8/A_fWocOsIuk/s800/_MG_0314.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW75UOHaUZI/AAAAAAAADq4/mBTE4XuY7B0/s800/_MG_0310.JPG

Hi all,

Finally got my first HTPC done with

Cheap Case
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+
GIGABYTE GA-M78SM-S2H
CORSAIR XMS2 4GB ( 2 X 2GB ) PC2-6400 800MHz 240-pin DDR2
Logitech Mediaboard Pro
160 GB ATA Hard Disk (from older desktop)
Lite-on DVD RW (from older desktop)

For some reason or another could not get it to work with Linux and Ubuntu
(at least the sites that I wanted for streaming)

Got it to work with Windows 7 beta (64 bit)

All the setup was done using smaller (19") Vizio LCD HDTV and on board HDMI port.

Then moved the box to main TV (Toshiba 57H84) which has 1 HDMI input.

The box is working fine. Although I would like to see crisper/bigger text I can enjoy what I'm seeing.

At the moment, my biggest issue is that I have to press Alt-F5 about every 10 minutes. The TV is the only monitor. The box never had D-Sub monitor. When I was building the box, I didn't have to press Alt-F5 ever. Now that I'm streaming video, there is interruption every 10 minutes.

Any ideas ?

TIA

PS -

I have posted this in HTPC forum also.
(I wanted to post link to that post but could not)

Here's some screenshots of my 51HX84.Nice Pics

Well Gregg of LionAV just left, and the exagerrated yellow from my BD player via the dvi port is taken care of.

The dvi port had its greyscale pushed all out of whack, made it look purple-ish.

Cleaned the lenses, re-calibrated, checked the colors, and good for another year.

I have a 57h83, bought new in '03.

Had it calibrated in '06.

With hi-def input via dvi port I have exaggerated yellow tint, first with a Tosh HD_DVD player, and now Panny BD35 blu-ray does exact same thing.

Both used a Monoprice hdmi to dvi cable direct to my dvi input of the tv.

I think the dvi port is at fault.

Anyone else notice excess yellow tint when using dvi input?

Anyway, LionAV calibrated the component input 2 years ago, I'm getting another calibration scheduled for the dvi input for later this month.

Hey guys,

I am having a problem with my 46h84. Just recently it has refused to work with my PS3 through the HDMI input. I tested the PS2 on my other TV it worked just fine through the HDMI input. What is odd, is that I use that same input for my Cable box and it shows those pictures just fine. Any ideas on what might be wrong???

Hey guys,

I am having a problem with my 46h84. Just recently it has refused to work with my PS3 through the HDMI input. I tested the PS2 on my other TV it worked just fine through the HDMI input. What is odd, is that I use that same input for my Cable box and it shows those pictures just fine. Any ideas on what might be wrong???

I had a similar problem, that my 51h83 wouldn't accept any HDCP content through the DVI port (just stopped working one day). You may be having a similar problem, where the Tosh is having a hard time making the handshake. Unfortunately, the remedy for my would not have been cheap ($400 in parts and labor, maybe more). However, the solution was ($200 popcorn hour plus ripping all my dvds and blu-rays).

Component cables may be a better option for you.

Well Gregg of LionAV just left, and the exagerrated yellow from my BD player via the dvi port is taken care of.

The dvi port had its greyscale pushed all out of whack, made it look purple-ish.

Cleaned the lenses, re-calibrated, checked the colors, and good for another year.

Yeah, grayscale does tend to drift off over the years, as the different colors of gun age at different rates -


b

I had a similar problem, that my 51h83 wouldn't accept any HDCP content through the DVI port (just stopped working one day). You may be having a similar problem, where the Tosh is having a hard time making the handshake. Unfortunately, the remedy for my would not have been cheap ($400 in parts and labor, maybe more). However, the solution was ($200 popcorn hour plus ripping all my dvds and blu-rays).

Component cables may be a better option for you.

See the cover page of my website for links around solving HDMI issues the way the guys with the big ceiling pjs do. The ones where every potential flaw will show, and bigtime...


b

See the cover page of my website for links around solving HDMI issues the way the guys with the big ceiling pjs do. The ones where every potential flaw will show, and bigtime...


I must be missing something on the HDFury ...

Is there a version that takes an HDMI input and outputs through component, or are adapters of some sort required?

Apologies for my density!

I must be missing something on the HDFury ...

Is there a version that takes an HDMI input and outputs through component, or are adapters of some sort required?

Apologies for my density!

HD Fury2 is what you want.

HD Fury2 is what you want.

Right. It takes in HDMI and OPs either component or RGB, switchable, with both sets of patchcables on the OP, plug-innable to the OP of the Fury 2.

Find links on the cover page of my website, down at the bottom -


b

HD Fury2 is what you want.

Or, could I go from this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2286&seq=1&format=2 to this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011402&p_id=4559&seq=1&format=2, through this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10416&cs_id=1041602&p_id=1190&seq=1&format=2, then (finally!) through this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2409&seq=1&format=2 to my 46H84, saving $80 in the process?

Thanks for indulging my thriftiness!

Or, could I go from this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2286&seq=1&format=2 to this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011402&p_id=4559&seq=1&format=2, through this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10416&cs_id=1041602&p_id=1190&seq=1&format=2, then (finally!) through this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2409&seq=1&format=2 to my 46H84, saving $80 in the process?

Thanks for indulging my thriftiness!


If you have only component capability - and not RGB capability - on your set, you lose it at the final step. RGB is NOT component, and requires a transcoder box to accomplish that, which will prolly blow your savings out of the water.


b

Ah, got it! Thanks for saving me the frustration.

Hi, I just joined so I could try to solve a problem with my 46H83. If this has been addressed elsewhere in this thread, please forgive me and let me know where I can get the answer.

I bought this TV for about $300 on Craig's list and considering it came with a matching stand, it was a hell of a deal.

Over time I noticed that in really bright scenes like cartoons that have snow or the Battle of Hoth in Empire Strikes Back have yellow spots. So I put it on a channel of snow and sure enough, there is an almost ovular shape of yellow a few inches thick halfway between the center of my screen and the edges.

I did try taking off the screen in the front and cleaning the mirror and the three lenses, which made my picture a lot better, but I still have the yellow. What could be wrong? What can I do? I did try the 9-point convergence and am a little hesitant to use the service menu and do a 56-point, but only if it is something that can actually solve this. Please help.

Hi, I just joined so I could try to solve a problem with my 46H83. If this has been addressed elsewhere in this thread, please forgive me and let me know where I can get the answer.

I bought this TV for about $300 on Craig's list and considering it came with a matching stand, it was a hell of a deal.

Over time I noticed that in really bright scenes like cartoons that have snow or the Battle of Hoth in Empire Strikes Back have yellow spots. So I put it on a channel of snow and sure enough, there is an almost ovular shape of yellow a few inches thick halfway between the center of my screen and the edges.

I did try taking off the screen in the front and cleaning the mirror and the three lenses, which made my picture a lot better, but I still have the yellow. What could be wrong? What can I do? I did try the 9-point convergence and am a little hesitant to use the service menu and do a 56-point, but only if it is something that can actually solve this. Please help.

Remove the viewscreen again and peer down into the blue lens directly, with a bright, fixed/paused picture on the screen, preferably all white, like a paused fade to white. Sounds like you have cooties in the coolant in your blue gun.

Yellow is red/green, which is the lack of blue in the color white.


b

Could it be from nicotine staining? I ask because I got my tv from a family of heavy smokers. I haven't cleaned the lenticular screen areas between the protective and rear screen so I see some yellowing on the screens. I've looked directly into all 3 lenses and have not seen any irregularities. Is this possible and if so what is the best way to correct this issue?

Could it be from nicotine staining? I ask because I got my tv from a family of heavy smokers. I haven't cleaned the lenticular screen areas between the protective and rear screen so I see some yellowing on the screens. I've looked directly into all 3 lenses and have not seen any irregularities. Is this possible and if so what is the best way to correct this issue?

Nicotine staining is definitely an issue in your case. Monster has a great plastic screen cleaner, have been hearing good things about it, for this app in particular.


b

The people I bought them from are non-smokers. I did not smell any smoke or see any stains on the back of the screen either.

Also, just so I don't have to put this thing back together again and then take it apart again to do so, how do I replace the coolant anyway? And as long as I am in there, should I replace the coolant on all 3? I think I want to be ready to do this right away if that is the problem.

what is the maximum resolution of this tv via DVI.

it is 1080i so it should be able to handle 1920x1080 interlaced coming out of a htpc, correct?

The people I bought them from are non-smokers. I did not smell any smoke or see any stains on the back of the screen either.

Also, just so I don't have to put this thing back together again and then take it apart again to do so, how do I replace the coolant anyway? And as long as I am in there, should I replace the coolant on all 3? I think I want to be ready to do this right away if that is the problem.

There is a recent thread on replacing the coolant in a Philips in this sec, plus you can find out more about that op at www.curtpalme.com. NO, only do the gun in question, unless you are a glutton for punishment...

Tosh's don't have a longstanding track record for the coolant going bad on the blue and green guns, like Philips and the older Sonys do.

b

what is the maximum resolution of this tv via DVI.

it is 1080i so it should be able to handle 1920x1080 interlaced coming out of a htpc, correct?

These CRT sets can be sent the full res, but only resolve out to around 1400 horizontally. Which is plenty for excellent crispness when well set up.

How to configure your htpc is for those in the know about such things, tho. There's a section on AVS about that somewhere around here -


b

what is the maximum resolution of this tv via DVI.

it is 1080i so it should be able to handle 1920x1080 interlaced coming out of a htpc, correct?

I have a 57h83, it will 'handle' 1920x1080 from my htpc, but with overscan.

You'll need to go into your video card controls and adjust the picture as needed.

Thanks Mr. Bob. I had thought of Monster Cleaner but wasn't sure if it was strong enough to work on the tars present in nicotine. I'll give it a try.

These CRT sets can be sent the full res, but only resolve out to around 1400 horizontally. Which is plenty for excellent crispness when well set up.

How to configure your htpc is for those in the know about such things, tho. There's a section on AVS about that somewhere around here -


b

My 46HX83 will take 1920x1080 via DVI but the overscan cuts off too much. I run the PC at 1600x900 and that fits almost perfectly on the screen.

I just wish the text was easier to read. It's not impossible but definitely difficult, even after doing the 56-point convergence.

OK, I went to a TV repair place and got myself some coolant. I also got a plastic syringe and some distilled water, screwdrivers, etc.

I was going through trying to get the CRT out and I ran into a rubber cap with some liquid in it which started running down the metal adjacent to it.

Luckily I stopped it and none of it got anywhere critical.

The stuff I read so far on replacing the coolant on the net so far does not go very much into how to remove the CRT. Also, inside of my TV there was an electric shock warning. This started to get scary. At this moment my TV is partway disassembled in my living room and I am not quite willing to go any further into it until I know more about what I am doing.

Will wearing rubber gloves help? How long after I power the TV down does the static stay in?

I read a little about how to discharge the static electricity, but I don't have any pictures.

I have not given up on this, just want to take a pause.

By the way, it did not look like there were any "cooties" in my blue gun whiles staring down into it, but for lack of any other handling, I decided what the hell and proceeded anyway.

(sigh)

I have a 65H84 purchased in March 05.

About a month ago, we noticed a green dot in our picture--about a 1/16 inch square. It's near the middle of the screen left to right and about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. Luckily, I have an extended warranty (which expires March 09). Repair guy came out, said one of the guns was damaged. Talked about burn in and something "catastrophic" happening. He recommended replacing all three guns, given the age of the TV. However, it sounds like the guns are no longer available so it was determined that the set is not repairable. I'm thinking, "Great, replacement TV under my contract."

Not so fast...the warranty company wants to have the broken gun rebuilt. This means either pulling the gun from the TV at the house or taking the TV to the shop to pull the gun and sending it out to be rebuilt. No time line provided on this.

I was hoping folks here could help with a couple of questions:


Is it feasible to rebuild the gun and is this an acceptable course of action?
Will the repair/replacement potentially affect other parts that may break, outside my warranty (remember, it runs in March 09?
Should I require the other guns or anything else be rebuilt/replaced
Thoughts on how long this should take?


The company is NSI and the terms I have are pretty clear--if it can't be repaired, they have to replace it with something comparable.

Any other recommendations for how to deal with this?

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE

Apparently, they send the gun to this place: http://www.cathoderaytubes.com/catalog.html, which replaces the tube reusing all the hardware.

Thanks Mr. Bob. I had thought of Monster Cleaner but wasn't sure if it was strong enough to work on the tars present in nicotine. I'll give it a try.

No idea myself. Let us know -


b

By the way, it did not look like there were any "cooties" in my blue gun whiles staring down into it, but for lack of any other handling, I decided what the hell and proceeded anyway.

(sigh)

You must be bored and have LOTS of time on your hands.

:p

First and most cardinal rule of troubleshooting and electronic repair: IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT. We spend lots of time before we do ANYTHING determining what parts of the set or the circuit we can DISPENSE with giving any attention at all. And we stay away from those areas like the plague, putting our attention ONLY on what needs that attention.

Even as a seasoned electronics tech, I have no idea what would happen under certain circs, and have NO desire to find out! Have had enough surprises over the years just in working on what NEEDS to be worked on.

Unless you're a glutton for punishment, PUT IT BACK TOGETHER NOW AND STEP AWAY FROM THE SET.

:eek:

Then continue to ENJOY it, not play with it!

:rolleyes:


b

I have a 65H84 purchased in March 05.

About a month ago, we noticed a green dot in our picture--about a 1/16 inch square. It's near the middle of the screen left to right and about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. Luckily, I have an extended warranty (which expires March 09). Repair guy came out, said one of the guns was damaged. Talked about burn in and something "catastrophic" happening. He recommended replacing all three guns, given the age of the TV. However, it sounds like the guns are no longer available so it was determined that the set is not repairable. I'm thinking, "Great, replacement TV under my contract."

Not so fast...the warranty company wants to have the broken gun rebuilt. This means either pulling the gun from the TV at the house or taking the TV to the shop to pull the gun and sending it out to be rebuilt. No time line provided on this.

I was hoping folks here could help with a couple of questions:


Is it feasible to rebuild the gun and is this an acceptable course of action?
Will the repair/replacement potentially affect other parts that may break, outside my warranty (remember, it runs in March 09?
Should I require the other guns or anything else be rebuilt/replaced
Thoughts on how long this should take?


The company is NSI and the terms I have are pretty clear--if it can't be repaired, they have to replace it with something comparable.

Any other recommendations for how to deal with this?

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE

Apparently, they send the gun to this place: http://www.cathoderaytubes.com/catalog.html, which replaces the tube reusing all the hardware.

It will usually not be a green dot, or any other single color, if only one gun needs to be replaced/rebuilt. If it's a single color, then the other 2 guns have had the damage, and both in exactly the same spot of where they land on the screen, not on their faces themselves.

If it's actually a turquoise dot - blue/green - then the red was what was hit and needs the attention.

Video Display Corp also has guns and rebuilds them. If the wear is not too great on any one gun, then just get the one gun in question rebuilt. If the wear is prominent and highly visually obvious on another gun, then that gun should be replaced also, tho they may not cover you on natural wear and tear.

The red gun usually lasts the longest, and you prolly won't need that one touched.


b

I did have a larger coolant spill after posting, and a TV repair tech told me I could still salvage it by cleaning the circuit boards with a toothbrush and drying it with a hair dryer. He also told me that it could be both the blue and green guns together that could have contaminated coolant.

Anyway, I did get a chance to clean off the inverted lens that makes contact with the coolant.

I am going to replace at least the coolant I spilled, do a more thorough cleaning of the circuit boards later tonight, then put my TV back together and see what happens.

I still don't have the problem solved. I only have two possible explanations of nicotine stains or contaminated coolant for my yellowness in the picture, and I see no such stains and I bought this from non-smokers.

I did go to a website and purchased a PDF download of the service manual. If I do mess with my set again, it will be in a far more informed manner.

No, I don't have a lot of time on my hands normally, but my wife is out of town right now so this is the best time to catch up on these sort of things.

As far as enjoying my set though, if my haphazard tinkering did not make the change, putting up with this yellow is like dating a large-chested blonde that is beautiful in every way except for a wart on her nose.

Thanks for listening, any further words of wisdom would be appreciated.

It will usually not be a green dot, or any other single color, if only one gun needs to be replaced/rebuilt. If it's a single color, then the other 2 guns have had the damage, and both in exactly the same spot of where they land on the screen, not on their faces themselves.

If it's actually a turquoise dot - blue/green - then the red was what was hit and needs the attention.

Video Display Corp also has guns and rebuilds them. If the wear is not too great on any one gun, then just get the one gun in question rebuilt. If the wear is prominent and highly visually obvious on another gun, then that gun should be replaced also, tho they may not cover you on natural wear and tear.

The red gun usually lasts the longest, and you prolly won't need that one touched.


b

Thanks. My wife thinks it may be turquoise. She said the service guy was waiting to see red on the screen to decide which gun. She can't remember what he said though as it was weeks ago.

How would I know whether there is prominent wear on the other guns?

Thanks again.

I saw the yellow blotches on my TV set.

I tried cleaning the mirror and lenses, they did not go away.

I hastily tried to replace the CRT coolant with limited information and a LOT of confidence, not completely sure that this was the right thing to do.

At first I got some leaking from the coolant reservoir when I removed the lens. i handled that quickly.

I removed the glass that touches the coolant not knowing that the coolant would be right there, I thought it was further down. I was just trying to remove the CRT.

I got a lot of leaking. I tried to clean it up the best I could with a toothbrush and dry it off with a blow dryer.

But putting the glass top back on was the real challenge. I could not just lay it there, as for some reason once I removed it I had to keep it there with my hand as I screwed the plating back on. I had to try this several times. I lost a lot of coolant. I ran out so I actually had to use a little bit of distilled water for the rest of it. This may or may not have been a good idea, but there I was with one hand on the plate trying to prevent a spill and with the other hand trying to get this thing filled.

I finally got everything back together after having filling it up and cleaned up the spill as best I could.

When I turned on the TV, it worked! The convergence was way off, so much so I almost grabbed a pair of 3-D glasses to see what sort of effect it had.

Anyway, I did not adjust the convergence right away. I wanted the TV to warm up for about 20 minutes and then do it.

After 15 minutes, the picture went away and did not come back.

This is how I spent my evening.

I hope someone reads this and learns from my mistakes.

There's a thread here about just what you're experiencing, on a Philips. Do a search on it, it might contain things that would be valuable for you to know right now.

Like that if you have left a bubble in there, it could have adverse effects on your pic.

That coolant needs to be removed, not just brushed. I use alcohol, paper towels and Q tips.

And that will be very hard to do if it has gone under, or even around, a flat pack IC with loads of legs on it.


b

There's a thread here about just what you're experiencing, on a Philips. Do a search on it, it might contain things that would be valuable for you to know right now.

Like that if you have left a bubble in there, it could have adverse effects on your pic.

That coolant needs to be removed, not just brushed. I use alcohol, paper towels and Q tips.

And that will be very hard to do if it has gone under, or even around, a flat pack IC with loads of legs on it.


b

Are you saying that I could still save my TV?

OK, I did get some alcohol, q-tips and paper towels. I cleaned the circuit boards the best I could, I even removed the back of the TV so I could reach the other side.

The problem is, I can't seem to take the thing apart sufficiently to remove the circuit boards, which I think will have to be the next extreme for me to go to. I have nothing to lose at this point, really.

Anyway, I turned it on with the screen still off to see if the CRTs would light up at all, but they did not.

What happens is I power it on, and the red power indicator light goes on, then after a few seconds I hear a click sound, then the power light flashes. It keeps flashing and does not even go off if I press it again.

I read about taking the circuit boards and running them through the dishwasher, is this safe?

Also, if there is/was a short circuit, is that permanent?

What does the clicking sound mean? Could I just need a fuse?

OK, I did get some alcohol, q-tips and paper towels. I cleaned the circuit boards the best I could, I even removed the back of the TV so I could reach the other side.

The problem is, I can't seem to take the thing apart sufficiently to remove the circuit boards, which I think will have to be the next extreme for me to go to. I have nothing to lose at this point, really.

Anyway, I turned it on with the screen still off to see if the CRTs would light up at all, but they did not.

What happens is I power it on, and the red power indicator light goes on, then after a few seconds I hear a click sound, then the power light flashes. It keeps flashing and does not even go off if I press it again.

I read about taking the circuit boards and running them through the dishwasher, is this safe?

Also, if there is/was a short circuit, is that permanent?

What does the clicking sound mean? Could I just need a fuse?

Get a tech in there and give him full disclosure about what's gone on so far, including EVERYTHING you have done so far. This is not a DIY problem now. Tosh problems are RARELY DIYer problems in the first place!

DIYing only goes so far. If you get in over your head, you bail out and call in a pro. In this case a seasoned repair technician, who's familiar with Toshibas and all their idiosyncracies.


b

I have a 51h83 that has been a great set. We got a Wii for Christmas and now, more and more often, the TV remotes will not get any signal through to the TV. I disabled the front panel buttons through the menu via the remote some time ago to prevent kids from fiddling around with them. now I am stuck! Could the Wii have caused some adverse affect to the TVs IR receiver??

Thanks,
Bill.

I have a 51h83 that has been a great set. We got a Wii for Christmas and now, more and more often, the TV remotes will not get any signal through to the TV. I disabled the front panel buttons through the menu via the remote some time ago to prevent kids from fiddling around with them. now I am stuck! Could the Wii have caused some adverse affect to the TVs IR receiver??

Thanks,
Bill.


Next time it DOES work, use it to re-implement the front panel, a least until you know what's going on.

Turn the Wii off whenever you're trying the remote. Perhaps it's sending out conflicting signals, interfering with the remote.

But it's much more likely that something is blocking your IR receiving sensor -


b

HELP:

I have a 46H84 and I can't change any of my color options. I bought the TV in 05 and have noticed significant decline in brightness and the screen is looking a little green. I have tried to change the factory settings but when I click on picture settings...nothing happens? As if it is locked.

I would rather not have to buy new lamps and would probably just go buy a new TV but I found this site and it looks like people are able to adjust things that I am not.

Any ideas?

Next time it DOES work, use it to re-implement the front panel, a least until you know what's going on.

Turn the Wii off whenever you're trying the remote. Perhaps it's sending out conflicting signals, interfering with the remote.

But it's much more likely that something is blocking your IR receiving sensor -


b

It was working for a bit this morning and there is a code to enter to unlock the front panel but I cant remember it!!! The Wii is always off when we are not using it and I used the camcorder to make sure its not sending out any IR signals when its off. At least I got the volume down a little. if i remember correctly from the manual, the IR receiver is in the middle of the screen on the bottom edge. I have been wanting to remove the protective screen (glare maginifier) for a while now. sounds like a great time to get inside the TV and see what going on. Are the directions out there somewhere? I remember looking them up when we got the set but then the kids started arriving and I didnt want to lose the "protection" of the glare screen. they are old enough and have been trained to "Never touch the TV":)

It was working for a bit this morning and there is a code to enter to unlock the front panel but I cant remember it!!! The Wii is always off when we are not using it and I used the camcorder to make sure its not sending out any IR signals when its off. At least I got the volume down a little. if i remember correctly from the manual, the IR receiver is in the middle of the screen on the bottom edge. I have been wanting to remove the protective screen (glare maginifier) for a while now. sounds like a great time to get inside the TV and see what going on. Are the directions out there somewhere? I remember looking them up when we got the set but then the kids started arriving and I didnt want to lose the "protection" of the glare screen. they are old enough and have been trained to "Never touch the TV":)


I am assuming you have changed out the batteries with absolutely fresh new ones...

Call the manufacturer to unlock codes. They always equip these sets with back door access codes or button sequences, for just such a situation.


b

I am assuming you have changed out the batteries with absolutely fresh new ones...

Call the manufacturer to unlock codes. They always equip these sets with back door access codes or button sequences, for just such a situation.


b

Absolutely fresh batteries indeed was the first step in trouble shooting. Crazy thing is it worked fine last night. no issues what so ever.
By the way 1234 and the front panel aint locked no more! I still want to get into the screen to see if the IR receiver may be going bad and I am still interested in removing the glare screen. anyone have access to those intructions?

Thanks,
Bill

Absolutely fresh batteries indeed was the first step in trouble shooting. Crazy thing is it worked fine last night. no issues what so ever.
By the way 1234 and the front panel aint locked no more! I still want to get into the screen to see if the IR receiver may be going bad and I am still interested in removing the glare screen. anyone have access to those intructions?

Thanks,
Bill

All right this is getting aggrivating. once again, last night and again this morning i got nothing. no inputs from any remote control. guess what i will be doing this weekend!! If anyone can post those instructions it would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks,
Bill

I am assuming you have changed out the batteries with absolutely fresh new ones...


Another trick, is to use the camera on your cell phone, to "view" the IR signals coming out of your remote. If you can see them, you are OK. If not, then it might be the remote itself causing the problems.

I took off the screens and restacked them this weekend. What a difference! Even without the convergence and DVE run through.
I still didn’t see anything that was blatantly obvious about the IR receiver and the remote signals still don’t get through. The only thing that I think was the IR receiver was the same thing as in the middle of the pic in post 1782 of this thread. Does anyone know if that is the IR receiver? In my hast to get the screen back on, I forgot to write the part number down. If that thing is the receiver, can someone tell me the part number??


Thanks!!

Hey guys, I have an H84 and it is giving me I guess what I would describe as a fisheye effect? It is most noticeable when you are have a straight line at the bottom/top of the screen like the Dish Guide. The center of the screen seems fine, but then curves towards all four edges and corners. I looked through the service menu and didn't see any options that seemed to help. Any ideas? :confused:

Any help at all would be much appreciated!

Hey guys, I have an H84 and it is giving me I guess what I would describe as a fisheye effect? It is most noticeable when you are have a straight line at the bottom/top of the screen like the Dish Guide. The center of the screen seems fine, but then curves towards all four edges and corners. I looked through the service menu and didn't see any options that seemed to help. Any ideas? :confused:

Any help at all would be much appreciated!

It's called pincushion, and looks like your convergence ICs may have croaked. That's not rocket science, lots of DIYers do it for themselves. It happens a lot on CRT RPTV tech. Just a bump in the road...

Here's a great tutorial on the subject -

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html


b

Hello everyone, Dr Bob put me here so maybe someone can help me. I have a Toshiba TN61X81 that I have to unplug to work because the red light blinks. Couldn't stand doing this everyday so I bought a Samsung HL67A750 which is amazing. Anyway the Toshiba would be good for the kids in the basement, but it won't make the turn down the stairs, but it's really close. If I could take the screen off I think I would have it. Is this possible? I can't find a service manual anywhere. It seems like it would come right off, but I don't want to force it. Thanks for any advice.

Mr. Bob, I have a 51hx84 that needs the lens stack. Where can I get these and what do they run? Also I had issues with the hyper module? Does this control the horizontal lines?

Anyways I might get rid of this tv because the kids beat on it :mad: Need to get a flat panel for the wall. I have had it calibrated, and love the picture. To bad I cant wall mount this thing:D Anyone now what these things are worth? Or is it worth fixing?

Thanks,
Dan

Mr. Bob, I have a 51hx84 that needs the lens stack. Where can I get these and what do they run?

You can contact Toshiba directly, or me and I will see what I can do. Directly please, not by pm.


Also I had issues with the hyper module? Does this control the horizontal lines?

DK. Len might know. lcaillo is his handle.


Anyways I might get rid of this tv because the kids beat on it :mad: Need to get a flat panel for the wall. I have had it calibrated, and love the picture. To bad I cant wall mount this thing:D Anyone now what these things are worth? Or is it worth fixing?

Thanks,
Dan


These are worth about what the economy is worth these days. I have tried to save as many as I can, by starting the Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV! thread more than 2 years ago. It's been fabulously attended, we will be hitting our 200th page soon. Perhaps that can help you somehow -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=176


b

I have an H82 that I recently performed a 56 point convergence on. I feel like the picture now looks worse than it did after doing a simple 9 point. I am guessing this was due to just trying to eyeball it instead of using some kind of method to make sure my green lines are straight. Are there any tricks to this other than buying a grid to put over it? I contacted AEC print shop but I haven't heard back yet. Thanks

I have an H82 that I recently performed a 56 point convergence on. I feel like the picture now looks worse than it did after doing a simple 9 point. I am guessing this was due to just trying to eyeball it instead of using some kind of method to make sure my green lines are straight. Are there any tricks to this other than buying a grid to put over it? I contacted AEC print shop but I haven't heard back yet. Thanks

All the boxes on the internal grid need to wind up being the same size.

The lines need to not have any curls in them from the 9 points, BEFORE you go into the sm to do it the complete way. Even if the lines wind up being pretty far apart via the 9 points, that can be corrected in sm as long as the 9 point straightens them out completely. Curls between points cannot be straightened out in sm. You HAVE to leave them straight in the 9 point, first.


b

All the boxes on the internal grid need to wind up being the same size.

The lines need to not have any curls in them from the 9 points, BEFORE you go into the sm to do it the complete way. Even if the lines wind up being pretty far apart via the 9 points, that can be corrected in sm as long as the 9 point straightens them out completely. Curls between points cannot be straightened out in sm. You HAVE to leave them straight in the 9 point, first.


b

Mr. Bob,
Thanks for the response. I went ahead and called AEC and ordered the grid from them... Now I just need to find out exactly what to do with it.

As far as the lines having curls, I am not sure if I know what you mean exactly. The 9 point is what I get to from the basic TV menu under "Convergence", right? Then I get the red and blue plus signs that I need to lay on top of each other? Is there something I am missing, or is it just that the H82 has a different method for doing a 9 point? I apologize if I am not making any sense as I have just now after all these years decided to try to optimize my picture on this TV. Thanks gain

I'm trying to get the new hd4670 vid card in my htpc to work with my 57h83 over hdmi to dvi converter cable.

Does anyone have a dump/print-out of the edid info for one of these tvs?

I'm trying to get the new hd4670 vid card in my htpc to work with my 57h83 over hdmi to dvi converter cable.

Does anyone have a dump/print-out of the edid info for one of these tvs?

Here's a moninfo report for my 50HDX82. I've heard/read they're fairly similar (which is why I subscribe to this thread).

FWIW I'm running mine with an HD4850 and it's working fine, although it took some tinkering. These cards don't seem to handle output disconnect/reconnects very gracefully. I played around with the EDID override trick (sounds like that's where you're going with this), but didn't have much luck so I made do without it.

Thanks.

I see the EDID override mentioned everywhere, but no mention of what exactly it is. Might you have a link?


Here's a moninfo report for my 50HDX82. I've heard/read they're fairly similar (which is why I subscribe to this thread).

FWIW I'm running mine with an HD4850 and it's working fine, although it took some tinkering. These cards don't seem to handle output disconnect/reconnects very gracefully. I played around with the EDID override trick (sounds like that's where you're going with this), but didn't have much luck so I made do without it.

Thanks.

I see the EDID override mentioned everywhere, but no mention of what exactly it is. Might you have a link?

There's a thread over in the HTPC section:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15202002#post15202002
It's basically a method of making a custom .inf file for your display. Most people were using it to address HDMI audio issues when using an AV receiver.

Mr. Bob,
Thanks for the response. I went ahead and called AEC and ordered the grid from them... Now I just need to find out exactly what to do with it.

As far as the lines having curls, I am not sure if I know what you mean exactly. The 9 point is what I get to from the basic TV menu under "Convergence", right? Then I get the red and blue plus signs that I need to lay on top of each other? Is there something I am missing, or is it just that the H82 has a different method for doing a 9 point? I apologize if I am not making any sense as I have just now after all these years decided to try to optimize my picture on this TV. Thanks gain

Sorry i missed this, i didn't get any email notification on it, like I usually do.

The sm grid lines need to be straight and not curled, same for any other grid you send in. Don't believe you get a grid to use in user, only the 9 crosses.

So you gotta get a grid up there to see, whether it's the internal one or an external one.

Set the 9 crosses such that the grid itself has straight lines, with no curls, even if the grid lines wind up being farther apart from each other. That distance between the lines can be cured in the sm by simply bringing the cursor points closer together.

Curls cannot, in sm.


b

Here's a moninfo report for my 50HDX82. I've heard/read they're fairly similar (which is why I subscribe to this thread).

FWIW I'm running mine with an HD4850 and it's working fine, although it took some tinkering. These cards don't seem to handle output disconnect/reconnects very gracefully. I played around with the EDID override trick (sounds like that's where you're going with this), but didn't have much luck so I made do without it.

That link seems to indicate that your set receives and plays with 720p. Does it take it in and upconvert it to 1080i? If it plays both of the HD scanrates native, without any upconversions, I'm gonna be REAL surprised...


b

Help Mr. Bob; Due to my house beening flooded with 2 inches of water(Great Montgomery, Al flood thursday) my 46" H83 got wet(not on a stand)from about 2" up from the bottem. I put a fan on it to help dry it out. When I turn it on I get a picture but the convergence is off. Touch focus gives error. Have a green and purple wavy line going across the screen. Cannot do a 9 pt. convergence on #4,6,7,8, or 9. Everything else works. Is this TV worth fixing and what is a good estimate? I will post a snapshot later. Thanks for your help.

I think ANY HD ready CRT unit is worth fixing. Sounds like you have a convergence problem, and that's really routine on this genre by now. Replacing the conv ICs is the ticket. It might have been close to going out by now anyway.


b

I think ANY HD ready CRT unit is worth fixing. Sounds like you have a convergence problem, and that's really routine on this genre by now. Replacing the conv ICs is the ticket. It might have been close to going out by now anyway.

Thanks again. Can you give me a ball park figure on how much this will cost. Going to call a TV shop monday.

For a Tosh, around $250-300 to include parts in most areas of the country, higher in some high cost of living areas. I charge more for Mits's as they are a lot harder to get into and perform the op.

I would NOT allow my set out of my home if I were you. This is an op that can be very concisely performed in your home without the risk of cosmetic or any other damage, that can easily happen when transporting these units.

But many owners do it for themselves, for just the cost of the parts, which you can get from Union Electronics or MCM.

Check out the thread by lcaillo about that op, just seach it out here in this section. It's great -


b

That link seems to indicate that your set receives and plays with 720p. Does it take it in and upconvert it to 1080i? If it plays both of the HD scanrates native, without any upconversions, I'm gonna be REAL surprised...


Yeah, it upconverts 720p. The output is strictly 540p/1080i. I only feed it 1080i nowadays, but I played around with it when I first got it. 720p from most STBs looked ok, although a little soft. Out of a PC it looked terrible, I think it was having a hard time interpolating all those sharp edges and single pixel lines.

Yeah, it upconverts 720p. The output is strictly 540p/1080i. I only feed it 1080i nowadays, but I played around with it when I first got it. 720p from most STBs looked ok, although a little soft. Out of a PC it looked terrible, I think it was having a hard time interpolating all those sharp edges and single pixel lines.

Yeah, that was my experience also of 720p out of my year 2000 65" Panny, which is the last model to ever keep both of the HD scanrates separate and distinct from each other.

That said, the upconverted 1080i from ABC and FOX's 720p on the Dish VIP 622 is incredible. None of the ee and mulchiness I saw on the Panny's pure non-upconverted version. It's every bit as crisp as any of the 1080i channels, and much crisper than lots of them. No problem at all seeing the grain of the film used to shoot 24 on FOX -


b

Help Mr. Bob; Due to my house beening flooded with 2 inches of water(Great Montgomery, Al flood thursday) my 46" H83 got wet(not on a stand)from about 2" up from the bottem. I put a fan on it to help dry it out. When I turn it on I get a picture but the convergence is off. Touch focus gives error. Have a green and purple wavy line going across the screen. Cannot do a 9 pt. convergence on #4,6,7,8, or 9. Everything else works. Is this TV worth fixing and what is a good estimate? I will post a snapshot later. Thanks for your help.
************************************************************ *****

Good news! Ran touch focus today and no error. TV is back to normal. Guess the IC boards had not dried out completely. Did get a quote of $200 to replace them. Thanks again Mr Bob for the information. I really like this CRT RPTV.

Contact me about getting your optics cleaned properly and safely, to restore a completely crystal clear light path again, like when it was new. Makes the picture sizzle again.

And other ways of maximizing its performance. Contact me directly please, not by pm.

You have a jewel there, a Lamborghini. But Lamborghinis need tune-ups to perform to their best potential.


b

New to the forum and not sure how to explain my issue. I have a 57H84 and last night it decided not to turn back on again. You here the intial power "click" then another click and the red light flashes....Now I took the back panel off and snooping around a bit...If I unplug the cable from the distributor going to the blue CRT it will turn on with no issue.

My quesiton being what could be the issue the board connected to the CRT or the CRT itself. If its the board that would be a cheap and easy repair to do myself.

If the wire you disco'd was a thick red wire, your symptoms point to a short in one of the CRTs. If the HV wire for the blue continues to the other 2, then you don't really know which CRT is at fault yet.

If the blue has its own discreet connection from the distributor to the gun, then it looks like your blue gun needs to be replaced.

The socket boards normally don't play any part of the CRT HV circuit. If you want to check for sure, exchange the socket boards on 2 of the guns for that part of your troubleshooting.

With your set unplugged, of course...

:p


b

Cool I wasen't sure if the boards were universal. If I do replace that gun I'll have to redo the convergence right?

another quick question is guns from other similar models exchangeable. Like a 57h82 or 83?

If I can't find the Blue CRT im prolly gonna part it out. I've been looking around and there isn't a lot of spare parts avail. that are easy to find.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that if enough people are interested i'll sell the parts from this TV. Maybe hopefully enough to purchase another one.

EDIT ok think I might of found a CRT...but the description isn't clear. does anyone have the PN for the blue CRT on the 57H84?

If I can't find the Blue CRT im prolly gonna part it out. I've been looking around and there isn't a lot of spare parts avail. that are easy to find.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that if enough people are interested i'll sell the parts from this TV. Maybe hopefully enough to purchase another one.

EDIT ok think I might of found a CRT...but the description isn't clear. does anyone have the PN for the blue CRT on the 57H84?

Just go to Video Display Corp and be done with it. They have every kind of pj CRT imaginable, and can rebuild yours if necessary.


b

Cool I wasen't sure if the boards were universal. If I do replace that gun I'll have to redo the convergence right?

Yes, but chances are it won't too awfully far off.


b

ok found the video corp site...but I still need to know the part number for the BLUE CRT in a 57H84.

I have a Toshiba 65h84 and a couple of months ago it started getting black vertical stripes down the screen. It's mostly on the left of the screen and when images are on the screen they look like they have an echo effect. Does anyone know if this is possible to fix. I have included a picture of what it looks like. The bottom of pic is messed up but you can see the lines on the left of the screen and to the right of the wii image.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f52/P_Davison/2.jpg

ok found the video corp site...but I still need to know the part number for the BLUE CRT in a 57H84.

It is printed on your blue CRT in your unit.

Or you can buy the service manual. It'll be in there.

Or you can call Toshiba directly, and ask them.


b

I have a Toshiba 65h84 and a couple of months ago it started getting black vertical stripes down the screen. It's mostly on the left of the screen and when images are on the screen they look like they have an echo effect. Does anyone know if this is possible to fix. I have included a picture of what it looks like. The bottom of pic is messed up but you can see the lines on the left of the screen and to the right of the wii image.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f52/P_Davison/2.jpg

Looks like ringing, like a filter cap in there is not damping properly, or a transmissive cap is not conducting the signal properly.

Wish I could help more, but have not seen this kind of thing often.

Saw something like it once on a Mit, and it turned out to be a bad cap.
The cap had a fishy smell to it, esp. when heated for desoldering, and a black gooey substance had leaked out of it onto the board beneath. Sometimes I see this black gooey substance on the bottom of the board - sometimes it penetrates to the bottom, have no idea how!

Close as I can come. Good luck!


b

I have a 51H83 that I believe the hyper module needs to be replace.
I was getting horizontal shuddering at the top of the screen that could be fixed by hitting the tv or jumping in front of it. But now it wont go away no matter what.

I have heard that the caps need to be replaced on the Hyper module.
Which ones?
Also, my part number is MVPU41C....That is the hyper module for this model tv...correct?
I hope so because I am holding it in my hands now...LOL....

Hi all... I'm new here and have been trolling these boards for a while.

My girlfriend has a Toshiba 46H83 and we just added Comcast digital HD. I don't know if it's the TV or perhaps something that I did wrong, but flipping from an HD channel to a SD channel looks the same to me, except for the HD channel being smaller on the screen.

The TV is elevated a little less than 3 feet from the ground and is impacting the quality a little bit. In order to compensate I've increased the contrast. My settings are as follows:

Contrast: 94
Brightness: 40
Color: 46
Tint: R5
Sharpness: 40
ALS: OFF
Flesh tone: OFF
CableClear DNR: OFF
Temperature: Medium
Display Format: 1080i

If anyone thinks my settings are poor or perhaps I have set this TV up incorrectly, please let me know. Flipping from WGN to WGNHD looks the exact same in quality to me, and it's a little disheartening :(

Contrast is way to high.

Why do you feel raising the tv height impacts the quality of the picture, I don't get that.

How is the tv connected to Comcast, what type of cables are you using?

You should investigate buying one of the calibration disks, I used the AVIA disk on my 57h83.

Contrast is way to high.

Why do you feel raising the tv height impacts the quality of the picture, I don't get that.

How is the tv connected to Comcast, what type of cables are you using?

You should investigate buying one of the calibration disks, I used the AVIA disk on my 57h83.

When I stand up and am at eye level, the picture appears brighter. When I sit down, the picture becomes a bit darker.

I'm using the cables that Comcast provided along with the HD-compatible box, as well as a simple coaxial cable that connects the cable to the HD-compatible box and another coaxial cable that connects the box to the television.

Previously I had the box setting at 480p and now it's at 1080i and looks sharper. Would that be the major issue?

The cable box setting needs to be at 1080i, which is usually done by the installing techs in an internal service menu. The box needs to be connected to your set via component or HDMI from the converter box.

If your set then does not pickup HD from a definitely HD broadcast - many HD channels put out lots of SD on them between the HD offerings, you can tell by mulchy resolution and the presence of sidebars - contact your cable provider. They provide such services for no charge in my area and all areas I've seen so far.

There's a chance your set's HD setup is so bad you won't see any difference between SD and HD. CRT RPTV tech requires a fine, silky smooth setup to really bring out the sizzle in true 1080i HD. The newer fixed pixel stuff out there already has every pixel in place before you even buy it. Not so with CRT tech. It takes the touch of the master's hand to bring it out.

But once brought out, watch out! With the incredible blacks CRT is capable of, the depth of a precision setup CRT triple gun sys usually bests most fixed pixel out there.


Your set has a sweet spot, which is what you see when you are standing and the picture looks brighter. This is true of all fresnel/lenticular screen systems, which means ALL CRT RPTVs. They were designed to maximize your viewing light level when shooting straight out from your set. Get above or below that centerline, and the pic is markedly dimmer.

This happens most times when I am in a bar or restaurant where they have their CRT based RPTV elevated so everyone can see it. If you stand on your bar stool or table chair, the pic is markedly brighter than when you're sitting on it. I always talk to the manager whenever that happens, to try and share my findings on this issue.

I AIM my display at where my eyes are when I am sitting on my couch. For my display, a 2x4 propped under the back aims the pic down to where my eyes are on the couch, I don't have to sit up to see the brighter picture, which is brightest in the center when set up correctly. It makes my display look a little funny from the side - it's slanted! - but works incredibly well.

It's a lot better than elevating your couch to where you eyes are at that centerline!


:p

b

The cable box setting needs to be at 1080i, which is usually done by the installing techs in an internal service menu. The box needs to be connected to your set via component or HDMI from the converter box.

If your set then does not pickup HD from a definitely HD broadcast - many HD channels put out lots of SD on them between the HD offerings, you can tell by mulchy resolution and the presence of sidebars - contact your cable provider. They provide such services for no charge in my area and all areas I've seen so far.

There's a chance your set's HD setup is so bad you won't see any difference between SD and HD. CRT RPTV tech requires a fine, silky smooth setup to really bring out the sizzle in true 1080i HD. The newer fixed pixel stuff out there already has every pixel in place before you even buy it. Not so with CRT tech. It takes the touch of the master's hand to bring it out.

But once brought out, watch out! With the incredible blacks CRT is capable of, the depth of a precision setup CRT triple gun sys usually bests most fixed pixel out there.


Your set has a sweet spot, which is what you see when you are standing and the picture looks brighter. This is true of all fresnel/lenticular screen systems, which means ALL CRT RPTVs. They were designed to maximize your viewing light level when shooting straight out from your set. Get above or below that centerline, and the pic is markedly dimmer.

This happens most times when I am in a bar or restaurant where they have their CRT based RPTV elevated so everyone can see it. If you stand on your bar stool or table chair, the pic is markedly brighter than when you're sitting on it. I always talk to the manager whenever that happens, to try and share my findings on this issue.

I AIM my display at where my eyes are when I am sitting on my couch. For my display, a 2x4 propped under the back aims the pic down to where my eyes are on the couch, I don't have to sit up to see the brighter picture, which is brightest in the center when set up correctly. It makes my display look a little funny from the side - it's slanted! - but works incredibly well.

It's a lot better than elevating your couch to where you eyes are at that centerline!


:p

b

A 2x4 is actually a great idea, I'll make sure to give that a shot!

I actually noticed that you're right, the box was at 480p and I just switched it to 1080i and the picture does look better, thanks! I also realized that I had the TV on the ANT setting instead of the HD-input.... I'm an idiot LoL

When you talk about a silky smooth setup, are you talking about anything in particular? I can change the settings on the TV to pretty much anything I like, currently my settings are:

Movie
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 44
Color: 36
Tint: R5
Sharpness: 30
ALS: Off
Flesh Tone: Off (should this be on?)
DNR: Off (should this be on?)
Color Temperature: Medium (is warm/cool better?)
Display Format: 1080i

Thanks again!

If you want to see what can REALLY be done with a CRT RPTV, check out my website, in my sig below.

Then go to the thread below, which has been extolling the virtues of CRT for almost 3 years now. Tons of CRT triple-gun owners of sets like yours have climbed on board and kept it alive and thriving all this time, and since CRT has an unlimited lifespan, I expect to see afficianados keeping this genre alive for a long time to come.

I just got back from a trip to Camarillo CA, where I was flown in by the owner to supertweak his 8-9 year old Pioneer Elite 720, and its owner is completely blitzed. The display is still running the Contrast - overall light level - at the same original centerpoint as when it was built, both in User and Service Menus. With sizzling light levels, complete blacks, incredible dynamic punch and lifelike color rendition, those original CRTs just keep cranking faithfully away, with no end in sight. I have never yet seen one of these Elites need to be regunned, and this is no exception.

Runco chose Toshiba to be used for its 65" flagship CRT RPTV back in the day, at $10,000 a pop. As always they redesigned some of it, but for the most part left most of it alone, including that fantastic Designer Menu that Tosh's had back then.

If you want to see some great CRTs in action, scroll a few pages back in this thread to see what yours can look like with the touch of the master's hand -


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16641968#post16641968


b

I have a 51H83 that I believe the hyper module needs to be replace.
I was getting horizontal shuddering at the top of the screen that could be fixed by hitting the tv or jumping in front of it. But now it wont go away no matter what.

I have heard that the caps need to be replaced on the Hyper module.
Which ones?
Also, my part number is MVPU41C....That is the hyper module for this model tv...correct?
I hope so because I am holding it in my hands now...LOL....

Anyone?

Anyone?

I replaced the hyper-board caps on my 50HDX82 a while back. I found this discussion thread on another forum that was fairly helpful (hope this doesn't break any rules):

http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=10984

Not sure how many models this covers, but they seem to mention quite a few in that thread. Basically there are about a dozen caps on the board that apparently go bad with age. They're surface mount aluminum electrolytics, but I found some high quality low-ESR tantalums that fit on the pads nicely (and had a higher voltage rating to boot). The job is not for the faint of heart - it's a real bear to even get to the board, and you have to unsolder a big shield that covers the board. You'll need some decent soldering tools and skills to do the caps - the solder pads are really fragile - I lifted a couple of them and had to repair them.

Another option also mentioned in the thread is to send the board to a shop to replace them. Of course you still need to take it out of the TV and ship it.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Edit - Looks like one of the contributors to that thread put together a nice step-by-step guide for this repair:
http://www.dshosu.com/how-to-fix-toshiba-rear-projection-hdtv-wavy-lines/

CRTs RARELY go out. That's what always occurs to people when their sets go down - "Oh God, is it the picture tube???"

99.99% of the time it's not. There are literally dozens to hundreds of circuits in there before the actual tubes, and ALL of them have to be working correctly to even get your signal TO the tube. CRTs are very resilient, and rarely have any problems at all.

If you ever DO need a CRT, go to Video Display Corp. They have untold numbers of them, of all types, and can resurface them as well, when they finally wear out, or finally go too dark to use.

Well cared for CRT RPTVs have an easy 10 year lifespan, looking better than new at all times when calibrated and regularly cleaned. It takes being pushed really hard by industrial - or babysitter - use at high contrast levels and potential screenburn, to make them stray from that norm to any great degree.

I have repaired and then calibrated 18 year old Mit's that the owners swear look as good as new afterwards.


Mr Bob

Hey Mr. Bob, how often should these sets be calibrated/cleaned? Is this something that I can do on my own or do I need to hire a professional?

I've tweaked some settings and the current picture display is great (especially for HD sports).

Thanks for all your help!

CRT RPTVs need their regular optics cleaned every year without fail, and to professional standards so they don't get damaged. This is the 3 lens tops and the mirror.

Every few years on Tosh's the deeper optics need to be cleaned as well, which is the lens bottoms and the CRT coolant covers. That covers 6 additional surfaces, and with the air gap between the lenses and the CRT coolant covers, the contaminants slide right in there every minute the set is turned on. That 30KV really does a number on the optics!

For the best possible potential to be realized on your set, it needs a professional calibration, at service mode level. Many DIYers make great improvements in their pix just surfing the net, but if you want no stone to go unturned, you get a professional CRT calibrator in there and turn him loose.

There are not many of us left, BTW. Very few who are qualified to do all the extra work CRTs need are still doing it; most have moved on to the fixed pixels being sold today, which don't require any image structure work. I am one of the only ones left who does.

Even on the ISF website, you'll find that lots of the phone numbers given there have been disco'd.

If you want to do whatever you can on your own set, I am available for phone coaching on how to do everything possible that a DIYer can do, and make sure you do it right, and safely. Contact me directly please, not by pm.

Some things can't be done that way - for grayscale you need the proper reference equipment for example, plus mastery of its huge learning curve, which takes a LONG time - but many things like optics cleaning CAN be done by the owner himself with the correct materials and practices. Just don't take chances with your irreplaceable display, or anything on it. Many critical parts are no longer available and can't be replaced if ruined. Like the lenses. And if you damage the CRT coolant covers, like happened a few years ago in Vegas when the installing tech took something very dry and very scratchy and ground in permanent concentric circular scratches into the coolant covers of all 3 guns of my owner's Hitachi - chances are you'll need new CRTs. He did. Got them thru his ESP, but not all owners have ESPs...

Calibrations should be repeated every few years as needed. The grayscale drifts off, the point sys drifts as well, and the optics keep getting contaminated because of the HV.

But it's incredibly well worth it! See my website for at least 1 picture of how good CRT can look.

You can also check out the Don't Dump thread mentioned above, for other pix.


b

+1!

Had my 57h83 done by Greg @ LionAV, made a world of difference.

Had him back a year later when I got a BD player to calibrate the DVI port - plus general cleaning and greyscale tweaking - as I had him skip the DVI the 1st time.

Hi all,
I've tried searching this thread for an answer but came up empty. I'm considering putting together a dedicated rig for playing my favourite racing games on my PC.
I've found a 2004 57H84 for what seems to be a decent price. But before I continue with this project I need some info.

How well will the 57H84 handle the hi res signal coming from my PC?
Currently I'm using my PC as htpc connected to a Sony KP-46WT510 rptv. I'm sending down a 1440x900 signal thru a DVI/HDMI wire to my Onkyo SR 606 AVR. That gets piped thru an HDMI/DVI wire to the Sony.

Everything works well (the desktop all fits on the screen)and text and pictures on the Sony are clear and crisp.

My PC has 2 ATI 1950 Pro cards that only have DVI out. The racing rig setup would not have the Onkyo. It would be straight DVI/HDMI from the PC to the Toshiba.

Will I have the same good luck I've had with the Sony on the Toshiba?

Apologies if this topic has been beaten to a pulp in this thread but like I said I didn't get any hits when I searched for 57H84 and computer.

Some Tosh owners have had issues with their hdmi to dvi connections, at the Tosh's dvi port.

My htpc to AVR to Tosh 57h83 gives me a great picture. You may get same, you may have issues, wont know till you try.

I've got a similar setup:
ATI 4850 > DVI/HDMI > Onkyo 805 > HDMI/DVI > Toshiba 50hdx82
It works pretty well for the most part, although it took a little fiddling to get it all working. Sorry I can't be more specific. I just kinda futzed with settings until I got it working (should have written things down I guess). The only remaining issue I have is the video not coming back when the PC comes out of sleep mode while it's not connected to the TV. I deal with it by making sure I switch my AVR to the HTPC input before I wake it up.

I've also tried connecting the PC directly to the TV with a straight DVI cable (part of the futzing around process) and that worked fine without much fuss.

Thanks for the answers guys.
I'm thinking of taking my HP G60 laptop with me if I go to see this TV.
The G60 has an HDMI out. I'll just need to research what would be a "safe " resolution to use when I hook up to make sure I don't screw something up in the guys set when it tries to synch.

My 51h83 just went dark and the red led on the front was flashing. I pressed the power button off then on it it is working fine. I was just wondering what this means ?

Hi Guys,

Glad to see there is still healthy love of CRT RPTVs around :)

Ive been doing some work on my old Toshiba 57VW9UA - which I believe is is similar to these H8x baby's :)

Ive just done a electrostatic and mechanical focus of my set and of course have some minor geometery issues to resolve because of it (its the first time ive done it).. and re-calibrate grey etc which is all fine, but that big thick fat pig of a convergence grid isnt making it easy to get it 100%..

Im using a HTPC as my single source for video input (at 1920x1080 for bluray, and 1776x1000 for upscaled pal) and am using the phillips test pattern generator which of course has beutiful single-line convergence grids making it easy to see where its fractionally out..

I thought I saw some information somewhere (could have been years ago) about reducing the size of the convergence gridlines (make them thinner) - is there something in the service/designer menu for changing the thickness of it? does anyone recall seeing it, or better yet know what the setting is? (its of course not in the service manual!)..

Cheers,
Bitey

DK, but what you want is whatever it takes to reduce the light level at those gridlines. For video content it's the Contrast, but I don't think they have anything in the sm to allow you to do that. The only brand I know of that does is the newer Hitachis.


b

Mr Bob,

Yes contrast would normally be the answer, however on this model, contrast doesnt affect the internal convergence grid :(

I did however find a post on keohi about some other settings to change the intensity of the grid (not the thickness of the lines themselves).. which may be of benefit.

Cheers,
Bitey

If you can't find a way to get thinner lines - which are definitely prefered on conv - Florida calibrator Louis Carliner used to use post-its to mark where on the grid the pic needed correction under real world video content. Using your own sent-in gridlines in sm is not available on Tosh's, you are limited to using THEIR gridlines. Other brands let you put your own gridlines up there while in sm, not Tosh.

So you might have to flip back and forth between your favorite grid in normal use and THEIR gridlines in sm, until you get it right. Means going in and out of sm over and over, but unless you can get gridlines that are useful in the sm, I DK any other way for now. If what you heard about works, I want to know about it!

:p

Grid lines used for conv should always be at the SAME LIGHT LEVEL as your normal video content. If you use strong, high light level grid lines, that won't match up to average, mid light level video content. When they designed these units they evidently assumed we'd all be running our sets at Torch Mode and designed them as such, with strong, hot grid lines in their internal patterns. Nothing could be further from the truth for a videophile.

The lines used, whether sent in or internally gen'd, need to be of average, mid light level intensity if your conv corrections are to match up properly to real world video content, which for a videophile will also be at average, MID light level content, like Contrast at midpoint rather than Torch Mode. If both strong and average light level lines appear on the same screen, like on a Mit in sm, the strong ones need to be disregarded and the average ones used ONLY, for your corrections.

For a Tosh, for now I DK any other way to get it really high precision on your conv without extra measures that were never designed into their sm's.


;)

b

Hi Mr Bob.

I read about 30 pages of this lenghty thread and I'm still a little confused on what to do with my Toshiba 51H84C. The pictue on it is good, but I guess it could always be better. Now, I read earlier where you said "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and I'm wondering if this adage applies to me and my TV. I've been reading a lot about the Avia guide to calibration and was thinking about giving it a try. What I wonder is if I do try it and alter my settings do I run the risk screwing up what is pretty good at the moment? If I do run Avia and adjust my settings can I push the TouchFocus button on my TV and bring it back to where it is now?
I've read about cleaning it but I would never try that myself, and where I live I wouldn't trust anyone around here to help me with that either plus like I said it's not bad at the moment but I'm sure it could be better.
I've just recently upgraded my AVR to a Pioneer VSX-919 that's capable of upscaling signals to 1080P even though I know my TV will only handle 1080i, a Pioneer 420v DVD player and HD Satellite and I guess I'm just interested in getting the best possible picture on my TV without screwing it up to worse than it is now.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions/help that you may offer.

Just last week, my 51h93 started having a greenish cast. It is especially noticeable on skin tones. Is anyone familiar with this problem? I couldn't find any info regarding it, but I wanted to get a little more information before spending $100+ for diagnostic service call. Is it an expensive repair? If it's going to cost more than about $300 to repair, I'd probably end up buying a new set.

Thanks

Hi Mr Bob.

I read about 30 pages of this lenghty thread and I'm still a little confused on what to do with my Toshiba 51H84C. The pictue on it is good, but I guess it could always be better. Now, I read earlier where you said "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and I'm wondering if this adage applies to me and my TV. I've been reading a lot about the Avia guide to calibration and was thinking about giving it a try. What I wonder is if I do try it and alter my settings do I run the risk screwing up what is pretty good at the moment? If I do run Avia and adjust my settings can I push the TouchFocus button on my TV and bring it back to where it is now?
I've read about cleaning it but I would never try that myself, and where I live I wouldn't trust anyone around here to help me with that either plus like I said it's not bad at the moment but I'm sure it could be better.
I've just recently upgraded my AVR to a Pioneer VSX-919 that's capable of upscaling signals to 1080P even though I know my TV will only handle 1080i, a Pioneer 420v DVD player and HD Satellite and I guess I'm just interested in getting the best possible picture on my TV without screwing it up to worse than it is now.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions/help that you may offer.

Calibration can improve ANY picture over 5 years old intensely, not just a little. But there's a steep learning curve to all facets of calibration. That's why people like me make careers out of doing calibrations.

You do it yourself at your own peril. If you don't change the initializing of your Touch Focus, yes it will get you back to where you are now should you do any changes that are not good. But after so many years, where you are now has drifted off substantially from OOB condition, which is never very good to start with. After this many years, pushing the Touch Focus button is the absolutely LAST thing I would do. People in the know disconnect that Touch Focus button, just because after a high precision calibration session of supertweaking your convergence, using it just messes up whatever precision had just been instilled into the picture by the calibration itself.

A professional calibration will assure you that all that can be done HAS been done, and will assure you of a spellbinding, awe inspiring picture. A DIY job, shooting from the hip and without the proper equipment, is a crap shoot.


b