Just last week, my 51h93 started having a greenish cast. It is especially noticeable on skin tones. Is anyone familiar with this problem? I couldn't find any info regarding it, but I wanted to get a little more information before spending $100+ for diagnostic service call. Is it an expensive repair? If it's going to cost more than about $300 to repair, I'd probably end up buying a new set.

Thanks

Whatever you will need done to your set will cost $300 or more, be it replacing a drifting focus block, replacing a leaky CRT, or a full calibration.

I understand if you don't think your set is worth putting $ into, but don't agree. I believe CRT is still the best modality out there, and that what you would pay for a new one is not how you should decide whether to optimize what you already have.

Which is already the best, IMHO.


b

Thanks for your reply Mr. Bob. I called a local service center this morning and they are coming out to pick it up tomorrow morning. The diagnostic fee is only $50 plus $40 for the pickup. They said the cost would likely be somewhere between $150-$350. Assuming that's the case, I'm going with the repair. I do like the set and am hoping that it's got more useful life left in it.

;)

This is my first post on this site. My sister gave me a Toshiba 51h83 RPTV and I notice there is a 10 inch by 10 inch area on the lower left side that is a little off. All the skin tones have a ghosting blueish shadow. And when I tried the Convergence button, Sector 4 and 7 are the ones that are a little off. When the text is in those two areas there is a blue shadow that kinda goes off to the side or angle like a shadow off to the side. I have no Idea of what to do? My sister said that it happened when they tried to move the TV to a diff Room. This area happened right after they dropped the t.v.? So I am wondering what options I have. Being a father of two young kids does not offord me very much extra money. So I am trying to get this t.v. fixed so Our family could have our first HDTV:o
I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx

I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx

Before I would start to open up the set, I would do a full, manual, 56 point convergence. Check out here (http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/toshiba/servicemenu/servicemenu.html) for tips on getting into the Service Mode, and from there, doing the manual convergence using your remote control.

This is my first post on this site. My sister gave me a Toshiba 51h83 RPTV and I notice there is a 10 inch by 10 inch area on the lower left side that is a little off. All the skin tones have a ghosting blueish shadow. And when I tried the Convergence button, Sector 4 and 7 are the ones that are a little off. When the text is in those two areas there is a blue shadow that kinda goes off to the side or angle like a shadow off to the side. I have no Idea of what to do? My sister said that it happened when they tried to move the TV to a diff Room. This area happened right after they dropped the t.v.? So I am wondering what options I have. Being a father of two young kids does not offord me very much extra money. So I am trying to get this t.v. fixed so Our family could have our first HDTV:o
I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx
Can you post a picture of the problem?

After learning through HCFR and refocusing again, and again, and again....

Here's some screenshots of my 51HX84. :)

Camera was a Canon EOS 20D w/ 18-55 kit lense, Aperture-priority mode, was around F/6 to F/4... 100 ISO on tripod.

Lense caused a bit of vignetting I noticed and was a bit blurry. :(

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW77Th7I5sI/AAAAAAAADrM/DGbhPyCV9iY/s800/_MG_0196.JPG

:cool:Looks like you took my advice about painting the silver trim black. Makes a world of difference eh? Well worth the effort and a MAJOR improvement in PQ if you thoroughly paint the bezel both inside and out.:D

This is my first post on this site. My sister gave me a Toshiba 51h83 RPTV and I notice there is a 10 inch by 10 inch area on the lower left side that is a little off. All the skin tones have a ghosting blueish shadow. And when I tried the Convergence button, Sector 4 and 7 are the ones that are a little off. When the text is in those two areas there is a blue shadow that kinda goes off to the side or angle like a shadow off to the side. I have no Idea of what to do? My sister said that it happened when they tried to move the TV to a diff Room. This area happened right after they dropped the t.v.? So I am wondering what options I have. Being a father of two young kids does not offord me very much extra money. So I am trying to get this t.v. fixed so Our family could have our first HDTV:o
I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx

Did you try altering the User 9 point settings in sectors 4 and 7? If they will line up properly again you'll probably be home free. If not, when dropped :eek: they probably shook loose the conns on some of the legs of your conv ICs, which if so will need to be resoldered. Don't use the set much at all in that condition, or the conv ICs will become permanently damaged and will need to be replaced.

If you do go into sm to do the conv there, be sure your 9 points are all lined up properly first, in User mode. You can realign straight lines properly in sm no matter how far apart they are, but you can't alter CURVES in those lines caused by improper alignment in the 9 point, that cause problems in alignment BETWEEN the various points in the sm grid.

So STRAIGHTEN all lines in the 9 point first, even if that makes them farther apart than when you started.

b

Calibration can improve ANY picture over 5 years old intensely, not just a little. But there's a steep learning curve to all facets of calibration. That's why people like me make careers out of doing calibrations.

You do it yourself at your own peril. If you don't change the initializing of your Touch Focus, yes it will get you back to where you are now should you do any changes that are not good. But after so many years, where you are now has drifted off substantially from OOB condition, which is never very good to start with. After this many years, pushing the Touch Focus button is the absolutely LAST thing I would do. People in the know disconnect that Touch Focus button, just because after a high precision calibration session of supertweaking your convergence, using it just messes up whatever precision had just been instilled into the picture by the calibration itself.

A professional calibration will assure you that all that can be done HAS been done, and will assure you of a spellbinding, awe inspiring picture. A DIY job, shooting from the hip and without the proper equipment, is a crap shoot.


b

Thanks for replying Mr Bob.
Well my brother-in-law was over the other day and has the exact same TV and he started messing with it, showing me how you can tweak the colours etc. but I told him I was nervous about that so I pushed the Touch Focus button. The TV went through it's motions and the picture came back the same as it was before. The picture is good but I'm sure it could be better but from what you're saying I think I'll leave well enough alone. I thought that using Avia or the THX Optimizer may be user friendly enough for a novice to try to tweak the picture settings.
I've found that pushing the Touch Focus button will bring me back to where my picture is now....so if I use the THX Optimizer and play with the settings, will pressing the Touch Focus button undo what I've done? Apart from some teenager coming over from the Future Shop Geek Squad, I don't think there are any professional optimizers in my area so I think I'm SOL.
Thanks for your advice.

Calibrators NEVER use Touch Focus. Or Flash Focus, or Magic Focus etc, none of which have anything to do with focus. They are all CONVERGENCE automated programs, which get you close, but not precise.

Some owners even disco those buttons.

Whenever a calibrator instills the nth degree of precision to our setup, we don't want anything messing with it after that. Touch Focus only degrades that precision. It is only meant to get things close, and they assume you sit way far back from your set, so higher precision is not necessary.

Videophiles like that BIG picture, so we like to sit a lot closer, where you can see all the flaws if any are there. High precision convergence, along with Cantilever Technique grade focusing, allows us to sit far closer and yet see none of the flaws. Touch Focus does NOT deliver that grade of picture. Not even close.

If your TF got you back to where you were before that corner went out, that's best case scenario for now. If you want it supertweaked by a calibrator, giving you depth you may have never seen before, the calibrator will want you to NOT push your TF button again.

If pushing the TF didn't cure that corner, then we go back to square 1, where a repair will be needed.


b

Calibrators NEVER use Touch Focus. Or Flash Focus, or Magic Focus etc, none of which have anything to do with focus. They are all CONVERGENCE automated programs, which get you close, but not precise.

Some owners even disco those buttons.

Whenever a calibrator instills the nth degree of precision to our setup, we don't want anything messing with it after that. Touch Focus only degrades that precision. It is only meant to get things close, and they assume you sit way far back from your set, so higher precision is not necessary.

Videophiles like that BIG picture, so we like to sit a lot closer, where you can see all the flaws if any are there. High precision convergence, along with Cantilever Technique grade focusing, allows us to sit far closer and yet see none of the flaws. Touch Focus does NOT deliver that grade of picture. Not even close.

If your TF got you back to where you were before that corner went out, that's best case scenario for now. If you want it supertweaked by a calibrator, giving you depth you may have never seen before, the calibrator will want you to NOT push your TF button again.

If pushing the TF didn't cure that corner, then we go back to square 1, where a repair will be needed.


b

Hey Mr Bob.

I think you're confusing me with another poster. I don't have a corner out....I just want to see if I can get my picture a little better.
From what you're saying, the touch focus is ok for non-videophile's like myself who are OK with the TV calibrating itself. If I use the THX Optimizer that's on the Cars DVD and I don't like what I've done, pressing the Touch Focus will bring it back, correct?
Thanks in advance.

Right. As long as you have not gone into the sm to do it. Yes if you're talking strictly about User, and you're only talking about convergence.


b

If I use the THX Optimizer that's on the Cars DVD and I don't like what I've done, pressing the Touch Focus will bring it back, correct?
Thanks in advance.

INCORRECT. TF is for convergence ONLY. THX Optimizer you are changing bright/contrast in the user menu. Once you press save settings thats it. Those settings are saved. You can always press reset tat will take the user menu settings back to the factory preset.

Now to explain what TF actually does. TF is for convergence ONLY as Bob has already stated. Its sole purpose is to return convergence parameters to a pre-memorized value. On my 51H83, TF does a pretty good job. However as Bob has also stated it does not make the convergence perfect. It will get the 9 point user menu convergence damn near balls on to the memorized setting, BUT that really what you want. The preset memory is based on the 56 point convergence which is found in the service menu.

When you go in the SM to do the convergence correctly, when you are finished the TV tells you to press TF. This puts the new settings in the TF memory for future 'touch-ups' of the convergence.

If your set is indeed at all original factory settings, you are certainly correct that the picture can be better. Your best bet is a copy of Digital Video Essentials or DVE. Follow the instructions on the disc. You most likely will need to go into the SM and 'tweek' some of the settings there in relation to the intensity of the different guns and then tweek the user settings from there.

*WARNING* - IF YOU GO INTO THE SERVICE MODE FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER, WRITE DOWN EVERY VALUE FOR EVERY PARAMETER FIRST BEFORE CHANGING ANY VALUE!!!

Though it takes time, you CAN do this yourself. Just write down everything first in case you mess up and need to return the set back to original. It IS worth the time and effort to do. I did my set years ago and do the occasional touch up. The BEST 'tweek' is removing the 'glare screen' and while you are doing that, paint the bezel flat black inside and out. Very easy & very effective.:)

Well said -

;)


b

Thanks for the info splicer.
I'll try what you suggested, but I'm a little nervous about doing so.
But if I write down all the values before I start tweaking I guess I'l be OK.
I'll post my findings later.
Thanks.

You are very welcome. Also, BEFORE you start tweeking anything, and while you have the screen off (be careful removing the screen, there are some small white wires that need to be disconnected, if possible have a second set of hands around for the screen removal) clean the optics (lenses) using SPRAYWAY (hands down the BEST advice I ever got from Bob) and the mirror FIRST. Boy what a difference it all will make. :D

Thanx for all the Replies. So I need to first try and get teh 9 point convergence as close to perfect as possible right? Then I need to go to the service menu and pull the 56 point or whatever size convergence grid?

Now I am also wondering about the Error I got when I did push the tru focus button? Does that mean there is a mechanical error with something? Or does that just mean something is just way out of wack on a setting somewhere?

I have never attempted anything like this so called service menu which sounds very complicated to me. Anyone have some advice before I head into this unknow area for me?
I know to write everything down before I change anything?
Thanx again people for your help. Maybe just maybe I can get this big boy back to normal, Or close to it. I just might have my first big screen HDTV!!

Sounds like you're on the right track.

You can get an error message with this kind of sys if you reduce your o'scan too much and the rays sent out to the edges of your screen can't hit their sensors.


b

I need to get into my 65h84 to remove cobwebs that are being projected onto the screen. How do I remove the cover and is it ok to use an air duster to remove them?

Haven't done your model for awhile, but usually you remove Philips screws down below the viewscreen and remove it.

Make the webs wrap around a scrunched up piece of paper towel, formed into a rough wand.

Don't try to clean your optics without the proper direction. They are VERY fragile and easily scratched, which instantly becomes permanent damage.


b

Hey all,

I have a macbook that is running Plex, and I'd like to get it hooked up to my Tosh 51H84. I have the HDMI > DVI cable, along with the adapter for my macbook. Problem is that when I hook things up the picture is VERY dark and muddy...too dark to even watch. All of my other input sources play fine, and things look great on the Macbook, but when I run the display to the TV it's not good.

I've also tried setting this up using the same cables on my Samsung 1080p set and the picture is great. Any thoughts on how/why this is happening and what I can do to improve the picture?

Thanks,
Mike

The 51H84 is not designed to be a computer ,omitor. Way too many parameters have to be adjusted. I have not heard of any successful transformations. Stick to the Samsung 1080p unit that was designed differently.