Official Toshiba H83/H84 CRT Thread [Text View] - Page 11

bushwickbill

10-19-09, 01:48 AM

WaltA

10-19-09, 07:39 AM

I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx

Before I would start to open up the set, I would do a full, manual, 56 point convergence. Check out here (http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/toshiba/servicemenu/servicemenu.html) for tips on getting into the Service Mode, and from there, doing the manual convergence using your remote control.

Splicer010

10-19-09, 08:27 AM

Splicer010

10-19-09, 08:38 AM

After learning through HCFR and refocusing again, and again, and again....

Here's some screenshots of my 51HX84. :)

Camera was a Canon EOS 20D w/ 18-55 kit lense, Aperture-priority mode, was around F/6 to F/4... 100 ISO on tripod.

Lense caused a bit of vignetting I noticed and was a bit blurry. :(

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_F7bKLBUzIlw/SW77Th7I5sI/AAAAAAAADrM/DGbhPyCV9iY/s800/_MG_0196.JPG

:cool:Looks like you took my advice about painting the silver trim black. Makes a world of difference eh? Well worth the effort and a MAJOR improvement in PQ if you thoroughly paint the bezel both inside and out.:D

Mr Bob

10-19-09, 11:39 AM

This is my first post on this site. My sister gave me a Toshiba 51h83 RPTV and I notice there is a 10 inch by 10 inch area on the lower left side that is a little off. All the skin tones have a ghosting blueish shadow. And when I tried the Convergence button, Sector 4 and 7 are the ones that are a little off. When the text is in those two areas there is a blue shadow that kinda goes off to the side or angle like a shadow off to the side. I have no Idea of what to do? My sister said that it happened when they tried to move the TV to a diff Room. This area happened right after they dropped the t.v.? So I am wondering what options I have. Being a father of two young kids does not offord me very much extra money. So I am trying to get this t.v. fixed so Our family could have our first HDTV:o
I am an electrician by trade, So I know not to go blindly into the back of the t.v. looking around. I am just wondering if I could fix this t.v.?
Please can someone help me out?
Thanx

Did you try altering the User 9 point settings in sectors 4 and 7? If they will line up properly again you'll probably be home free. If not, when dropped :eek: they probably shook loose the conns on some of the legs of your conv ICs, which if so will need to be resoldered. Don't use the set much at all in that condition, or the conv ICs will become permanently damaged and will need to be replaced.

If you do go into sm to do the conv there, be sure your 9 points are all lined up properly first, in User mode. You can realign straight lines properly in sm no matter how far apart they are, but you can't alter CURVES in those lines caused by improper alignment in the 9 point, that cause problems in alignment BETWEEN the various points in the sm grid.

So STRAIGHTEN all lines in the 9 point first, even if that makes them farther apart than when you started.

b

jam99

10-19-09, 12:08 PM

Calibration can improve ANY picture over 5 years old intensely, not just a little. But there's a steep learning curve to all facets of calibration. That's why people like me make careers out of doing calibrations.

You do it yourself at your own peril. If you don't change the initializing of your Touch Focus, yes it will get you back to where you are now should you do any changes that are not good. But after so many years, where you are now has drifted off substantially from OOB condition, which is never very good to start with. After this many years, pushing the Touch Focus button is the absolutely LAST thing I would do. People in the know disconnect that Touch Focus button, just because after a high precision calibration session of supertweaking your convergence, using it just messes up whatever precision had just been instilled into the picture by the calibration itself.

A professional calibration will assure you that all that can be done HAS been done, and will assure you of a spellbinding, awe inspiring picture. A DIY job, shooting from the hip and without the proper equipment, is a crap shoot.

b

Thanks for replying Mr Bob.
Well my brother-in-law was over the other day and has the exact same TV and he started messing with it, showing me how you can tweak the colours etc. but I told him I was nervous about that so I pushed the Touch Focus button. The TV went through it's motions and the picture came back the same as it was before. The picture is good but I'm sure it could be better but from what you're saying I think I'll leave well enough alone. I thought that using Avia or the THX Optimizer may be user friendly enough for a novice to try to tweak the picture settings.
I've found that pushing the Touch Focus button will bring me back to where my picture is now....so if I use the THX Optimizer and play with the settings, will pressing the Touch Focus button undo what I've done? Apart from some teenager coming over from the Future Shop Geek Squad, I don't think there are any professional optimizers in my area so I think I'm SOL.
Thanks for your advice.

Mr Bob

10-19-09, 01:09 PM

Calibrators NEVER use Touch Focus. Or Flash Focus, or Magic Focus etc, none of which have anything to do with focus. They are all CONVERGENCE automated programs, which get you close, but not precise.

Some owners even disco those buttons.

Whenever a calibrator instills the nth degree of precision to our setup, we don't want anything messing with it after that. Touch Focus only degrades that precision. It is only meant to get things close, and they assume you sit way far back from your set, so higher precision is not necessary.

Videophiles like that BIG picture, so we like to sit a lot closer, where you can see all the flaws if any are there. High precision convergence, along with Cantilever Technique grade focusing, allows us to sit far closer and yet see none of the flaws. Touch Focus does NOT deliver that grade of picture. Not even close.

If your TF got you back to where you were before that corner went out, that's best case scenario for now. If you want it supertweaked by a calibrator, giving you depth you may have never seen before, the calibrator will want you to NOT push your TF button again.

If pushing the TF didn't cure that corner, then we go back to square 1, where a repair will be needed.

b

jam99

10-19-09, 03:08 PM

Mr Bob

10-19-09, 03:24 PM

Right. As long as you have not gone into the sm to do it. Yes if you're talking strictly about User, and you're only talking about convergence.

b

Splicer010

10-19-09, 05:12 PM

If I use the THX Optimizer that's on the Cars DVD and I don't like what I've done, pressing the Touch Focus will bring it back, correct?
Thanks in advance.

INCORRECT. TF is for convergence ONLY. THX Optimizer you are changing bright/contrast in the user menu. Once you press save settings thats it. Those settings are saved. You can always press reset tat will take the user menu settings back to the factory preset.

Now to explain what TF actually does. TF is for convergence ONLY as Bob has already stated. Its sole purpose is to return convergence parameters to a pre-memorized value. On my 51H83, TF does a pretty good job. However as Bob has also stated it does not make the convergence perfect. It will get the 9 point user menu convergence damn near balls on to the memorized setting, BUT that really what you want. The preset memory is based on the 56 point convergence which is found in the service menu.

When you go in the SM to do the convergence correctly, when you are finished the TV tells you to press TF. This puts the new settings in the TF memory for future 'touch-ups' of the convergence.

If your set is indeed at all original factory settings, you are certainly correct that the picture can be better. Your best bet is a copy of Digital Video Essentials or DVE. Follow the instructions on the disc. You most likely will need to go into the SM and 'tweek' some of the settings there in relation to the intensity of the different guns and then tweek the user settings from there.

*WARNING* - IF YOU GO INTO THE SERVICE MODE FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER, WRITE DOWN EVERY VALUE FOR EVERY PARAMETER FIRST BEFORE CHANGING ANY VALUE!!!

Though it takes time, you CAN do this yourself. Just write down everything first in case you mess up and need to return the set back to original. It IS worth the time and effort to do. I did my set years ago and do the occasional touch up. The BEST 'tweek' is removing the 'glare screen' and while you are doing that, paint the bezel flat black inside and out. Very easy & very effective.:)

Mr Bob

10-19-09, 09:20 PM

Well said -

;)

b

jam99

10-20-09, 11:28 AM

Thanks for the info splicer.
I'll try what you suggested, but I'm a little nervous about doing so.
But if I write down all the values before I start tweaking I guess I'l be OK.
I'll post my findings later.
Thanks.

Splicer010

10-20-09, 11:45 AM

You are very welcome. Also, BEFORE you start tweeking anything, and while you have the screen off (be careful removing the screen, there are some small white wires that need to be disconnected, if possible have a second set of hands around for the screen removal) clean the optics (lenses) using SPRAYWAY (hands down the BEST advice I ever got from Bob) and the mirror FIRST. Boy what a difference it all will make. :D

bushwickbill

10-21-09, 03:02 AM

Thanx for all the Replies. So I need to first try and get teh 9 point convergence as close to perfect as possible right? Then I need to go to the service menu and pull the 56 point or whatever size convergence grid?

Now I am also wondering about the Error I got when I did push the tru focus button? Does that mean there is a mechanical error with something? Or does that just mean something is just way out of wack on a setting somewhere?

I have never attempted anything like this so called service menu which sounds very complicated to me. Anyone have some advice before I head into this unknow area for me?
I know to write everything down before I change anything?
Thanx again people for your help. Maybe just maybe I can get this big boy back to normal, Or close to it. I just might have my first big screen HDTV!!

Mr Bob

10-21-09, 04:40 AM

Sounds like you're on the right track.

You can get an error message with this kind of sys if you reduce your o'scan too much and the rays sent out to the edges of your screen can't hit their sensors.

b

annalisedmiller

11-01-09, 05:19 PM

I need to get into my 65h84 to remove cobwebs that are being projected onto the screen. How do I remove the cover and is it ok to use an air duster to remove them?

Mr Bob

11-01-09, 08:49 PM

Haven't done your model for awhile, but usually you remove Philips screws down below the viewscreen and remove it.

Make the webs wrap around a scrunched up piece of paper towel, formed into a rough wand.

Don't try to clean your optics without the proper direction. They are VERY fragile and easily scratched, which instantly becomes permanent damage.

b

PSUlion01

11-14-09, 11:57 AM

Hey all,

I have a macbook that is running Plex, and I'd like to get it hooked up to my Tosh 51H84. I have the HDMI > DVI cable, along with the adapter for my macbook. Problem is that when I hook things up the picture is VERY dark and muddy...too dark to even watch. All of my other input sources play fine, and things look great on the Macbook, but when I run the display to the TV it's not good.

I've also tried setting this up using the same cables on my Samsung 1080p set and the picture is great. Any thoughts on how/why this is happening and what I can do to improve the picture?

Thanks,
Mike

Splicer010

11-14-09, 02:20 PM

The 51H84 is not designed to be a computer ,omitor. Way too many parameters have to be adjusted. I have not heard of any successful transformations. Stick to the Samsung 1080p unit that was designed differently.

Brien

12-19-09, 08:19 PM

Well, believe it or not, I've never used the HDMI port until today. For some reason, when my cable box switched from 480p to 1080i sources, the screen goes wonky and it splits, where the bottom of the screen is at the top, and the top is at the bottom, with a black bar running through the middle of the screen. Turning the TV and/or cable box on/off seems to fix the problem until the source changes again.

Anyone have some suggestions?

jacob.hyman

12-28-09, 10:29 AM

Not sure if people are even looking at this thread anymore, but I figured I'd post a question.

I've had a 46H84 for about 5 years now. For general watching movies/tvs, the set looks great with just the user mode convergence and adjusting contrast/color settings. When using my HTPC, text can be hard to read (I know it's probably never going to look as good as LCD in that respect). I've also noticed that when doing the user mode convergence, the read and blue lines to the sides of the "+" symbols don't always appear parallel (especially near the sides of the screen).

I stumbled onto this thread and noticed all the tips for cleaning/focusing/convergence from Mr Bob and Pittdog. I'm not sure I'm up for talking off the screen and doing a full cleaning yet (worried I'll scratch something), but doing the electro mechanical focus and system mode convergence seems pretty straightforward and looks like it only requires removing the speaker grill. Should I expect a significant improvement from just that or is it pointless if I'm not going to do the cleaning manual focus? Will this help with the geometry issues?

I'm guessing the advice will just be try it and see, but figured I'd ask.

Thanks,
Jacob

pbc

12-28-09, 10:47 AM

It's been a while, but I don't recall being able to do mechanical convergence without also removing the screen (so that you can tie some thread/rope to each of the bolts to move the thing-a-ma-jigs back and forth to get good focus).

If you have two people for the first time around, removing the screen isn't that difficult. Hardest part is getting the little white clip unclipped which is why you may want a second person.

If all you've been doing is the 9 point convergence in the user menu (the crosses), then doing a full 56pt convergence, mechanical and e-focus, and while you're at it get some lens cleaner and lens clothes and wipe down the lenses (and maybe even the mirror), it'll be a huge difference.

Just don't accidentally touch the trim pots instead of the focus knobs. If you do, you're in for a world of hurt!!

jacob.hyman

12-31-09, 07:56 AM

Well, I opened up the set and did a cleaning of the lens and mirrors. The mirror wasn't actually that dusty considering I've had the set for about 5 years. The lenses were pretty coated.

I did an electrical focus (didn't really want to move around the lenses). Things there weren't actually too bad to start with. I got the red really sharp, but couldn't quite get the green as sharp. I've done about two rounds on the service menu convergence (much better than the standard one), and moved the HPOS -1 to account for some centering problems. It only took about 2 hours total, and it's a pretty noticeable improvement when running my HTPC windows desktop (I think the cleaning and convergence were the big helps).

Thanks all.

Mr Bob

12-31-09, 02:12 PM

On any 5 year old CRT RPTV the mirror IS dirty, if it's a glass one (mylars are rare in HDreadys). To see how dirty, you've got to shine a strong flashlight beam on it at a very steep angle. What you will see looks like smokiness, and if you lightly touch it up in a faraway corner and shine the light there, you'll see a black spot where you touched it, where it is cleaner than the surrounding area.

The deeper optics also usually need cleaning on a Tosh. That's 6 additional surfaces of the 10 that ultimately need to be crystal clear to have a crystal clear light path, so neither the mirror nor the deeper optics can be overlooked in this operation. They comprise more than half of the equation.

b

Mr Bob

12-31-09, 02:18 PM

BTW, the convergence does not require removing the screen. Optical focusing does, as well as optics cleaning. But not geometry nor convergence, either static or dynamic. Even recentering the image on the CRTs is not handled inside the optical cavity, but my magnet rings on the CRT necks.

I have never seen a Tosh need those centering magnets altered, so don't even go there. It's just an observation on my part, to save you owners some unneeded extra work!

:D

I recommend the Cantilever Technique for the optical focusing.

When all has been said and done accurately and completely, CRT RPTV tech has no problem with fine print. You don't have to buy into an LCD for that, nor any kind of fixed pixel flat panel. You just need to do your CRT right.

b

stern_howie

01-29-10, 09:44 PM

Hi

wonderful thread but not sure I see anything that covers my problem.

The picture on all inputs seems a bit fuzzy, fuzzy may not be the best word since it's more like a bit of static mixed in with the picture almost like a bit of inteference on a OTA broadcast. It's less noticible when the PS3 or Xbox is hooked up on the DVI input (but it's there).

Looking at a Tivo menu screen connected via SVideo it's quite annoying. It's there as soon as you turn the set on and never improves.

The set is from 2003, recently had it cleaned and a quick 56pt touch up in the the SM. The problem was there before the cleaning etc.

No other apparent problems.

Any ideas?

thanks

Splicer010

01-30-10, 12:33 AM

Can you take a picture and post it here? Reading this I was thinking the set needed to have the optics cleaned, and it still may if you did not do deep optic cleaning and only cleaned the top of the lens barrel. But a picture is worth a thousand words in a case like this.

stern_howie

01-30-10, 04:48 PM

thanks Splicer for the reply.

I know that just the mirror and lenses were cleaned. The tech didn't seem to 'go deep' in to the guts at all.

I will take a photo or get a short video clip up on You tube and link for you to take a look at.

probably get to it tomorrow :-)

yellowshirt

01-31-10, 09:04 PM

Brewhound

01-31-10, 10:23 PM

I've owned the 52HM84 for 6+ years. Never had a problem. Recently purchased a Denon AVR-2310 and having nothing but problems trying to connect it via HDMI. Works fine via component cables. I actually had it functioning for the first evening then shut off the HDTV and Denon. Since then, have not been able to get the HDTV to display any video coming from the Denon. I've reset the Denon numerous times, disconnected the HDMI cables, powered down and then powered up the HDTV after waiting a couple of minutes, then powered on the Denon. I've done a hard reset of the Denon as well. No change. However, if I connect my Sony BDP to the HDTV via HDMI, everything works fine. This is the second Denon I've tried, and it works fine with my other HDTV.

I've been looking to see if I can do some kind of hard reset on the HDTV. Can't find anything other than advice to leave it unplugged for 2 hours.

Anyone have any thoughts on how to get the devices to handshake?

Thanks.

Funny you're posting this... I posed a similar question in the Yamaha 663 thread in the receivers section.

Check out this link: http://community.crutchfield.com/forums/p/7424/33567.aspx

it basically boils down that the H84's need an audio and video signal to get through the HDCP handshake. I don't know about the Denons, but on my Yamaha there is an audio bypass option (instead of the receiver handling the audio). If i turn this on the handshake completes and I get video, but only 2 channel audio ( the receiver changes the audio to 2 channel PCM). So I have it hooked up with HDMI audio and component video. I'm just glad these TV's do such a good job of upconverting to 1080, so my dvd's still look decent. Hope this helps. Here's the link my post in the Yamaha thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=995796&page=348

Splicer010

02-01-10, 07:42 AM

This is a thread for H83/H84. NOT a thread for the DLP sets which are completely different technologies.

WaltA

02-01-10, 08:56 AM

The picture on all inputs seems a bit fuzzy, fuzzy may not be the best word since it's more like a bit of static mixed in with the picture almost like a bit of inteference on a OTA broadcast. It's less noticible when the PS3 or Xbox is hooked up on the DVI input (but it's there).

Are the menus fuzzy too, or are they clear?

I had a problem with my HX83, where all inputs were fuzzy, but the internally generated menu graphics were crystal clear. Since the menus were clear, I concluded it was not something in the display subsystem itself.

stern_howie

02-01-10, 08:13 PM

Hello again,

Here is a link to a video of it. 10mb size. replace xxxx with http
xxxx://rapidshare.com/files/344584991/1111M2U00957.MPG.html

My camcorder is actually making the problem seem a bit worse than it really is (probably due to the lighting in the room) but I think you get the idea.

The TV menus themselves are not blurry.

thank you for your help

Splicer010

02-01-10, 09:33 PM

Splicer010

02-01-10, 09:59 PM

Sorry Howie...after that painstakingly slow download, what seems to be the problem? Doesn't look 'fuzzy' to me beyond you maybe needing to do a 56 point convergence. And take your time doing so. I start at the middle and work my way out. It takes a couple of times to do it right. In other words, when you are done the first time, start it all over again. Time consuming but worth it, especially if you've never done it before. Do it right then you should be able to get by with minor touch ups now and again. After 5 years I am getting ready to do it all again to my set.

Looks like the blue needs converged on your set.

stern_howie

02-02-10, 08:50 AM

thanks splicer,

When I look at the green background on the Tivo menu (ion the video I uploaded) notice it's not solid but like it has some static mixed in with it? That's what I am noticing to some degree when I watch regular TV. Maybe it's just me :-(

The guy who cleaned the mirror etc. did a minor (very minor) 56pt touch up just to fix a couple of corners.

I already attempted to touch up his touch up once I understood what he had done but you are right I need to get back in there and adjust some more.

The blue is an eye strain killer to fix. It seems as though it shows either side of the converged Red/Green and never goes completely away.

Any tips?

thanks!

Splicer010

02-02-10, 01:15 PM

Tips? You know you can turn off the different guns to do one at a time right?

What you need to do is check out (and post) the 'Don't dump your CRT' thread here at AVS. Mr. Bob, myself and others have lots of tips & pics what to do.

Splicer010

02-02-10, 01:17 PM

Oh yeah. Don't move the Green. that is your base everything needs to be aligned to.

WaltA

02-02-10, 02:00 PM

Again, this sounds like my old problem.

If it was a convergence problem, would not the menu graphics be off too?

IMHO, it is in the "video input switching board" (that's my name for it, not Toshiba's). All the video, even RF goes thru that board, but the menu graphics are added after it.

rathwine

02-10-10, 07:00 PM

My toshiba 65h14 is now showing vertical bands on the left hand side of the screen when I start it up, but after about 1-2 minutes it fades and the picture is good. Does anyone know what could cause this? Thanks. Troy

Splicer010

02-10-10, 07:29 PM

Temujin69

02-13-10, 02:59 PM

First time poster, but am thrilled to see such a huge thread to a series I've really been impressed with.

I have the 65H84C, loved it for the last 5 or 6 years.
Finally this year have gotten a PS3 and am able to utilize the HDMI input and get the HD capability that I haven't used up until now.

Stepped up and got a Sony STRDH1000 and am using that as an HDMI hub to pass all to the 65H84.

So, my issue that now that we're streaming some 720p mkvs, blurays and whatnot, when there's a really bright scene, I zoned in on this horizontal gray line going right across the monitor.

After freaking out a bit, I did some troubleshooting and after replacing all the cables (thank you Monoprice!) and swapping out the PS3, all to no avail, I re-hooked up my Xbox to the S-video and displayed a white bm,p I created for this. NO LINE!
I then (to rule out the receiver's HDMI port) plugged the PS3 directly to the HDMI on the TV, line was there again.

So...I believe this means I have an issue with the Toshiba correct? Now would this mean I have to replace the mainboard and if so, is this A) Expensive and B) easily done if I'm used to building computers for the last 15 years?

Great thread and site, I did not know about the service menu and the convergence utility, I'll have to research that some more!

Thanks for any help or suggestions, I'll be diving back into the 85 pages of this thread to see if I can glean any more useful info about this series of great tvs.

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 03:14 PM

The blue is an eye strain killer to fix. It seems as though it shows either side of the converged Red/Green and never goes completely away.

Any tips?

thanks!

This is a great description of blooming, also called bad focusing. It can be either mechanical or electrostatic. All mechanical focusing should be nailed as tight as a drum on all 3 colors.

SOME blue defocusing at the blue Focus trimpot of the focus block is allowable, and actually gets you a brighter blue image in your whites, but if it can be noticed from any normal viewing distance it's too much. If it can only be seen from up close and personal, it's usually allowable for regular viewing distances.

The brightness in the whites is in inverse proportion to the tightness of the blue image, meaning that the tighter you focus it the dimmer the whites get. So slightly defocusing it helps get stronger blues in your whites. If you have too much blue in your grayscale, then focusing the blue image tighter is the quickest and easiest fix for garish, too-blue whites, which is how most CRT RPTVs are sent out from the factory, in a vain attempt to beat each other out for brightness of pic on the sales floor.

For best mechanical focusing on all 3 colors, I recommend the Cantilever Technique -

b

Splicer010

02-13-10, 03:35 PM

Temujin69

02-13-10, 03:38 PM

Splicer010

02-13-10, 03:56 PM

Do a user menu convergence to get your feet wet before venturing into the service menu. When you do enter service menu WRITE DOWN EACH AND EVERY VALUE BEFORE YOU MAKE ANY CHANGES OF ANY KIND. THIS IS CRITICAL THAT YOU DO THIS!

As for your HDMI issue, you will have to research it further but I seem to recall reading that something was amiss using the first gen HDMI ports on the Toshiba CRT HD RPTV line. Mine is a H83 so I have the DVI input and do not experience the problem you have. Good luck.

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 04:13 PM

I just did a TV cleaning of my 51H83. This time I used some micro fiber lint free cloth that I found at SAMS CLUB along with the Sprayway glass cleaner. Not surface optics but deep optics and mirror as well. Kind of ticked me off when I turned the set on (before I put the screen on) and found there was one of mt hairs in the green. Had to remove the lens barrel again and reclean, and all is excellent again. The lens/mirror were far from being filthy, but they were dirty enough that they needed to be cleaned. I couldn't make a smiley face like Bob did on someone elses lens.

But I also went a step further. I cleaned the entire cavity of the set and there was a fair amount of dirt. I also cleaned the entire outside of the cabinet (upper & lower) before I even considered taking off the screen. That is where the dirt and dust were. Even cleaned the speaker grill. Set looks like new again. A little later I will go into the service menu and do a convergence and after that I will pull out my HD DVD DVE disc and check calibration levels. But watching the Olympics right now, there is a noticeable improvement in PQ from last night.:)

the best way to see if your optics are dirty is with huge lighting. backlight with very strong video content when you're licking your finger to draw the happy face, and use a very strong flashlight when shooting at a steep angle from the side, to check the mirror, with that little spot you put on the face of it with the back of your finger knuckle.

Other than that, you know I don't recommend microfibre cloth for this purpose, but are free to use it if you like. It has nowhere near the absorbtion value I require of my optics cleanings.

b

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 04:17 PM

Also, since our unit is 5+ years old, I'm guessing this baby is way overdue for fine tuning ie: convergence? I'm still reading this thread bear with me :)
We do the Touch Focus every other month or so, did not even know about the Service Menu option.
Is it with it to have a tech come out to do that AND look at our horizontal line issue?
Love the TV, don't want to spend an arm and a leg to get it fixed, but if tech can do it and know what he's doing, I'd rather not screw it up more than it is, but I'm guessing we don't have anywhere near the picture we had 5 years ago am I right?

Touch Focus is worthless for high precision viewing. Does fine for Joe Sixpack, tho. And for anybody sitting way far away from their display.

Local repair techs typically know nothing about the calibration process and in most cases will make your set look worse afterwards than before. find a trained and experienced CRT RPTV specialist, or man the learning curve for doing it yourself. You can trust that a local repair tech won't have time to man that calibration learning curve adequately, he'll be far too busy keeping up with the repair end of things.

No you don't have anywhere near the pic you once had, if nothing has been done to your set for 5 years. If a full cal had been done when it was still new, you'd still not have anywhere near the pic you once had, after 5 years. Would you let a Lamborghini go without being tuned for 5 years and still expect the performance from it that you once knew, from it?

We get used to these things and don't notice as they gradually deteriorate. Deterioration, like rust, is a very slow process, but time definitely weighs in, factors in and takes its toll, even tho you don't notice it on a day to day basis.

Remember, rust never sleeps...

:D

b

Temujin69

02-13-10, 04:46 PM

Thanks for the advice, where would be the best place for me to start the learning curve? Are there FAQs or walk-throughs / documents on this site?
You've mentioned the Cantilever Technique in this thread a few times, is that done through the sm or do I have to open the unit? I don't think I'm quite there to be opening the unit just yet :)

Any thoughts on that line issue? Might a main board replacement do the trick?

Thanks for your time!

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 08:38 PM

Feel free to contact me directly if you want more info on that learning curve.

As for your hor line, you might try going component rather than HDMI. You don't need HDMI for HD, as your earlier post seemed to indicate that you believe. Component works just fine for all forms of HD, and in many cases - like my display - better than HDMI, for true HD. Works fine for upconversions as well, tho you can't get 480i->1080i upconversions anymore out of DVDPs, only via HDMI.

Therefore the only absolute need for HDMI in CRT RPTV tech is for upconverting SD 480i DVDs to 1080i scanrate using the DVDP's upconversion circuitry. True HD goes thru component in 1080i - the highest scanrate usable by CRT RPTVs anyway - just fine. And is indistinguishable from 1080p on most HD material.

b

Splicer010

02-13-10, 09:45 PM

And isn't there a HDFury thingy available that will take HDMI and convert to component, even for upconverting?

you know I don't recommend microfibre cloth for this purpose, but are free to use it if you like. It has nowhere near the absorbtion value I require of my optics cleanings.As for the micro fiber cloth Bob, these that I bought are excellent at absorption, better than the blue shop towels and I say at least equal to paper towels, but with zero lint. The main reason I did the deep cleaning is because of the lint left over from the last deep optics cleaning I had done a year and a half or so ago. Here is the link:
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=424276
These things are nice. About 50 cents a towel and I don't know how they are after washing, but out of the package I love them. They come in neon orange, neon green (what I bought) and neon yellow. They claim "Ultra Absorbent" and they really are.

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 10:05 PM

Then they must be different from any microfibre cloth I've experienced. The wetness just stayed on the top of any I've used. The surface is left with hundreds of little blobs of liquid in the smears, that then need to evaporate, leaving dried residue.

One thing my procedures NEVER leave is dried residue.

I also like to use virgin paper towels. I don't want to have to clean and dry cloth towels, to be sure any contaminants will not be on upcoming towels used.

That's easy with disposable paper towels. All the grit goes out with the used paper.

As for lint, I just use a clean photo or cosmetics brush. Or paint brush. Lint gone in a wink.

I also like paper towels because they can be gentle. I would consider using shamways if all I needed was for absorbancy. But no, I think that kind of cloth would be too heavy and might scratch the surfaces.

With paper towels I can control all that just in how I scrunch them up and get them ready for use, with each swipe. In many ways, paper towels are very delicate and can be used in a very delicate fashion.

The HD Fury II and III are strictly for transcoder conversion, not for upconversion. They convert HDMI to component or RGB. It's the DVDP that actually does the upconversion from 480 to 1080.

b

Splicer010

02-13-10, 10:28 PM

The HD Fury II and III are strictly for transcoder conversion, not for upconversion. They convert HDMI to component or RGB. It's the DVDP that actually does the upconversion from 480 to 1080.I realize what you are saying, and correct me if I'm wrong but, since a DVD (HD DVD, BD, DVD) player will only upconvert via HDMI, then the upconverted signal is converted to component and voila! Upconversion via component.

Mr Bob

02-13-10, 10:32 PM

Right!

b

Lee MD

02-23-10, 09:13 PM

The convergence on my 6.5 year old 42H83 needs repair and I'm not sure which resistors to check. Can someone help me out? I'm already schooled on the IC part. Thanks in advance.

chrishallowell

02-24-10, 10:55 PM

Our TV started to display horizontal lines that blur the images to the right. If we bang on the side of the TV it stops. It does it for all video inputs. It's the worst at the top. I tried to take a few pictures which are attached.

I called a service guy but it's going to be $80 just to get them to look at it. I hate to do that if the TV is shot or it's going to cost hundreds of dollars to get it fixed. It's a 6 year old 65HX83.

Any ideas on what might be causing this and how much it might cost to fix? If I need to open it up that's fine. I would also need to read this thread again as to how to give it a good cleaning. (It has never been cleaned :o )

Thanks!
Chris

Splicer010

02-24-10, 11:11 PM

Looks like a thorough cleaning is needed first.

Mr Bob

02-25-10, 12:43 PM

The convergence on my 6.5 year old 42H83 needs repair and I'm not sure which resistors to check. Can someone help me out? I'm already schooled on the IC part. Thanks in advance.

Usually when a set needs the ICs replaced, no resistors need replacement unless they have burned, which is visibly obvious.

Of ones that typically burn, they are usually fairly big, like 1 watt. They are load resistors, not the little skimpy 1/4 and 1/8 watt jobbies. And are sometimes in a bank, rather than being individual.

If you really need to know, you'll probably need to get the schematic. They are located fairly closeby to the ic's.

I would get the ICs replaced first and see if you actually need to deal with the resistors at all.

b

Mr Bob

02-25-10, 12:45 PM

Lee MD

02-25-10, 07:38 PM

Usually when a set needs the ICs replaced, no resistors need replacement unless they have burned, which is visibly obvious.

Of ones that typically burn, they are usually fairly big, like 1 watt. They are load resistors, not the little skimpy 1/4 and 1/8 watt jobbies. And are sometimes in a bank, rather than being individual.

If you really need to know, you'll probably need to get the schematic. They are located fairly closeby to the ic's.

I would get the ICs replaced first and see if you actually need to deal with the resistors at all.

b

I don't see any burnt resistors on the board next to the ICs. Thanks for responding.

Mr Bob

02-25-10, 09:38 PM

Let us know how it turns out -

b

lester570

03-01-10, 02:47 PM

I have owned a H84 for about 4 years now and recently have had an issue where the picture distorts vertically on start up. when i say distorts, it basicly is fuzzy and waves. this stops after the first couple minutes and is fine as long as the TV doesn't cool down. has anyone heard of this or how to fix it? I want to sell this one cuz i have a larger one in a box waiting for the room.

Calling around, I was told by a couple people that the problem is the Hyper Module. But the part is impossible to find. Any contacts out there?

urtrashmytreasur

03-03-10, 03:18 PM

I'm a total noob to these forums and such... just looking for a little advice really. I responded to an ad on Kijiji yesterday offering a 57 inch tv for free! slight problem was the hole about the size of a head in the bottom of the screen. any ideas where I could get a replacement screen?

Splicer010

03-03-10, 08:24 PM

Look on Craigslist for rear projection sets that don't work (usually free) and take the lenticular and fresnal screens out and cut them to size for the 57" set. Even if you have to pay $50 for a set, that is still cheaper than ordering new screens from the internet.

Lee MD

03-08-10, 01:40 PM

Well, I had the IC's replaced and I still can't adjust the red convergence horizontally. Any ideas on what else I need to check?

Mr Bob

03-08-10, 02:37 PM

Whenever I get to that point I have to check the actual schematic, see where the static H and V for each of the colors comes from. It eventually feeds into the ICs, which are the amplifying output amps for the various waveforms needed to do the convergence corrections. These corrections also include the master positionings of the red and blue images, which is what is in question here.

It could also be a bad connection in the red conv yoke's plug-in to the circuit. I found once that one of the pins had come loose and gone cold soldered where it was soldered to the board, and simply needed to be resoldered. I resoldered all 4 legs and everything worked properly again.

Make sure all the load resistors have the low impedance they are color coded for and are not wide open. Sometimes they just give up the ghost without showing any darkening. You can check them in circuit for continuity and low impedance without having to remove them. Be sure the set is OFF/unplugged, of course...

:p

b

Lee MD

03-10-10, 07:16 PM

I had a tv repair guy come over and he thinks the problem might be the convergence module. The resistors were fine. I think I may have to scrap this one.

Splicer010

03-10-10, 08:46 PM

The convergence on my 6.5 year old 42H83 needs repair and I'm not sure which resistors to check. Can someone help me out? I'm already schooled on the IC part. Thanks in advance.

Now why on earth would you change out resistors and not the convergence ICs when you said the convergence is what needs repair? Buy the convergence chip(s) and the set is as good as new.

the convergence ICs need to be replaced, however so do the six 1.8 ohm 1watt resistors as Toshiba recomends replacing those six resistors when the ICs are changed. You can get the 50H71 / 50H82 Convergence repair kit as the 42H83 is identical to the 50H71 series, so the kit will work for your model. Heres the link where you can get the kit.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

I had a tv repair guy come over and he thinks the problem might be the convergence module. The resistors were fine. I think I may have to scrap this one.

Unless you have a strange desire to spend more money on a new set, much more than the cost to fix the 42H83, then I would fix this set if it were me. Now, if you can get an incredible deal, and I do mean incredible, on a newer set, then I can see scraping this one.

For example; I was just checking out craigs list ( I have a habit of looking for anything cheap I think I might be able to resell for a profit after all is said and done, and believe me, it has worked more than once, hence the reason I was checking out the electronics section ;)) last week when I came across a new listing for a Toshiba (I LUV Toshiba products) DLP set, a 56HM66 for the "incredible" price of $50. Yup, 50 bucks. Ad stated all the set needed was a new bulb. It also said that a swivel stand was included (found out it wasn't, she changed her mind) which was the clincher why I emailed her. Anyway, I know how nice DLP sets are, minus the new projector lamp every 3 years or so, and this one was a 720p set.

Now I already am the very proud owner (since new) of a Toshiba 51H83 set that has been tweaked to as close to perfection as I could possibly tweak it, and it is in perfect condition. I brag on this set and still am amazed at the quality of the picture. Unfortunately it is capable of a maximum resolution of 540p (1080i). The DLP has a maximum resolution of 720p and so is more detailed/smoother. The screen is also 5" larger which turns out to be substantial in actual comparison.

So I replaced the bulb ($130), bought a stand large enought to fit the TV ($138 including tax), and a new center channel speaker shelf that fit on top of the TV ($23 shipped), and a new HDMI cable (the old cable was HDMI>DVI since the H83 was DVI) and optical cable ($10 for both shipped from monoprice.com) to connect the new TV to my AVR since the TV has a built in ATSC/QAM tuner and the H83 I used a seperate tuner that was coaxial out and finally $5 for those little things you put under furniture so one person can slide the furniture around. I needed those because the new stand and everything on it is too large and heavy to move otherwise after making all the connections behind the stand. So if you have been able to keep up with me so far, my $50 TV has now cost me $356. Now I am going to order a replacement lamp so I have one and won't have to wait without a TV if/when this lamp goes out ($130) so the grand total is $486. Still an incredible price for a TV that cost $1600 by itself and would need all the extras. To buy a comparibly sized TV in todays market, it would cost me even more. My conundrum now is, what to do with the 51H83. I will put it in my bedroom and see how it does in there.

Sorry to have gone off track more than I planned, but I wanted to explain myself better. I didn't need another TV (and my wife keeps reminding me of that fact) but just happened to find one that is better (which is objective of course) at the right price (which is of course also debatable when considering the total cost involved).

Seeing as how finding deals like I have are so few and far between, I would suggest that it would be in your best financial interest to repair your 42H83 for the interim. Now of course if you can afford a new set, then please forgive my presumption(s) and go for it.

Lee MD

03-10-10, 09:06 PM

Just wanted to update my situation. I decided to take the board out again and test the resistors again even though the technician who replaced the ICs said they were fine. WRONG! One of the resistors is bad, R7726. I hope replacing it will do the trick.

Mr Bob

03-10-10, 11:49 PM

Now I already am the very proud owner (since new) of a Toshiba 51H83 set that has been tweaked to as close to perfection as I could possibly tweak it, and it is in perfect condition. I brag on this set and still am amazed at the quality of the picture. Unfortunately it is capable of a maximum resolution of 540p (1080i). The DLP has a maximum resolution of 720p and so is more detailed/smoother. The screen is also 5" larger which turns out to be substantial in actual comparison.

Wrong. Any CRT RPTV that is HDready is capable of 1080i. 1080i is not the same as 540p. A simple viewing of the 2 against each other on the same program material would show that to you. Take a SD DVD of a certain movie, play it up against the Bluray version of the same thing.

The 1080i image will be at least twice as crisp, and not upconverted, which 540p is, as it only applies to upconverted 480i'p.

540p only kicks in when you are sending 480i/p to your set. If true HD is hitting it, it goes straight thru and is getting displayed in magnificent 1080i. Not 540p.

If your 1080i set does not look better than your 750p set, then it is not as well set up as you say it is. I will put a fully/finely calibrated 1080i CRT set up against any 720p set and it will stand tall beside it and in many cases look better. The only advantage a fixed pixel set has over a CRT set is that a fixed pixel display's image and resolution is set in stone at the factory, while a CRT set has to be set up on location to look its best. And I have seen fixed pixel triple panel DLP sets not look anywhere as good as triple gun CRT sets, simply because the factory didn't do as good a job as an experienced CRT calibrator was capable of doing on the alignment of the 3 images, out in the field. The last example of that was a Runco DLP projector! You had to sit far away for it to look good! And that was at CES, where the Runcos were being demo'd for the press. This was even before Runco was sold to Planar recently for over $30 million.

Hang onto your 42H83, Lee. You have no idea the gold mine you're sitting on. With a proper, in-depth calibration your CRT will display a stellar image, the kind that makes us CRT afficianados not desire anything new. We have the best now.

b

Lee MD

03-11-10, 08:48 AM

Mr. Bob, my tv has slight burn-in on the left and right edges so its not quite a gold mine. I'm sure there's a fix, but no idea what part.

Mr Bob

03-11-10, 11:52 AM

If you can come up with a negative pattern that will burn the sides in to match the middle, you're home free.

You also need to establish which colors are burned. Is the middle just darker than the sides, or is it a different color? If just one color is burned, then you can get away with replacing that gun and starting over, if you want to go the freight. But since CRT RPTVs are a dime a dozen out there now, that's no longer the preferred way of handling it.

For a few hundred you could replace your set with a similar one without screenburn. Possibly a bigger one, if you have ever wanted that. And for pennies on the dollar.

CRT RPTV is the deal of the century right now.

b

Lee MD

03-11-10, 02:37 PM

Splicer010

03-11-10, 08:07 PM

Is not 540p converted to interlaced 1080i? What am I not remembering here?

For the stretched pictures on the H83, TW1 is notibly the best stretch method of any RPTV. Toshiba is known for their excellence in that department. However, since you watched in 4:3, if you used the TV tuner, then the bars are grey. Some people (like you) hated watching "stretched" pictures, while other people (like me) hated watching pictures with side bars. ;)

Mr Bob

03-11-10, 10:49 PM

Mr. Bob, what do you mean by negative pattern? As for which is darker, the sides of the screen are darker. It was killin me when I was watching the winter olympics. When I bought the tv year ago, I hated watching SD programs stretched so I had bars on the side (can't remember if black or grey).

Negative pattern means displaying the opposite of what hurt your screens in the first place. If the sidebars were black, then those sections were not bombarded at all while the center section was. Meaning that they sustained less wear, and thus stayed brighter than the center section, due to the natural darkening that happens over the years to phosphors.

Screenburn is defined as uneven phosphor wear. It is usually most visible on an all white screen. Or all gray if you don't have all white.

So I am confused. For your screen to have the outer parts darker than the center section, the sidebars would have had to be brighter than the inner section all those years, and thus gotten worn down more than the center section. And I don't know of any manufacturer that did a white sidebars thing. Only black - in which case the wear on the sidebars areas should be lagging behind the center section - or gray, in which case no screenburn shoulda happened in those areas if the gray was of the proper light level. Worst case scenario there woulda been lines of demarcation caused by a black vertical line on each side between the 4x3 content and the sidebars.

Please eddicate me...

:o

b

Mr Bob

03-11-10, 10:59 PM

Is not 540p converted to interlaced 1080i? What am I not remembering here?

Quite possibly. But not on true HD that originates as 1080i in the first place. If it originates and hits the display as 1080i, it stays 1080i. 540p really doesn't play any part, in that scenario.

Originally here you said that the set in question was only capable of 540p, making 720p superior.

I was taking issue with that. It is capable of 1080i, and fully dialed in 1080i looks better than fully dialed in 720p.

For one thing, if you do the math, you find that 1080i has roughly twice the pixel count of 720p. 720x1280 vs. 1080x1920. About a million vs. about 2 million.

Even tho the full 1920 horizontally is not used on our CRT RPTVs, the end result is still a noticeably higher pixel count on 1080i, and thus - plus due to other things as well - a higher resolution picture.

b

Splicer010

03-11-10, 11:44 PM

So 1080i has a resolution of 1920x1080, then what is 1080p resolution?

I thought that 540p was superior to 480p, and thus 720p would be superior to 540p?

And I am still going thru my 'back and forth' as to what I really like. I love my CRT. Lets make no mistake about that.;) So far, I do really like the new DLP. The 5" difference in screen size is (to me) very noticeable.

The DLP seems to me, to be crisper, but as I told you on the phone the other day, I hadn't done the convergence on my CRT in awhile, and that might have something to do with that perception.

I really like the fact that there is no overscan with the DLP, or at least no noticeable OS from what I can tell.

The colors are fabulous, but the difference isn't that much different than the CRT. The DLP has a new lamp, which is what I believe is the reason. When the bulb starts to dim, the colors will diminish in their brightness.

The Black levels are excellent, far superior to any LCD sets I have seen, and beats out plasmas by a hair. It is the closest to CRT blacks that I have seen. Big positive there.

But the real difference I am struggling with is that no technology, other than CRT, looks 'natural' to me. CRT is so smooth, and 'realistic' looking that I am finding it difficult to fully approve of my new TV picture. I thought it was the fact that 720p has a better resolution, but to be honest, I just can't put my finger on it Bob.

I do recall that when I first got my 51H83 CRT HD RPTV that it took ALOT of getting used to, coming from a 32" (Toshiba ;)) CRT set. SO I suppose I will need some time adjusting to this new set also.

Well, my HD DVD movie just started, 'Death at a Funeral', and it does look much, much better than OTA or cable HD. I wonder if the built in tuner may have something to do with what I am seeing? I may try connecting my LG HDTV tuner and see what kind of results I get. The colors of the HD DVD are the same on the DLP as they are on the CRT IIRC. Man this is confusing. :)

Splicer010

03-12-10, 05:48 AM

Here is comparison shots of my previous setup with my 51H83 CRT HDTV and my current setup with my 56HM66 DLP HDTV. Funny, It is difficult to see the screen size difference between the two sets in the pictures, but in person they are quite noticeable.;)

Mr Bob

03-12-10, 02:11 PM

1080i and p have the same 1920x1080 resolution. There is so little difference between them it's almost not worth talking about.

Yes 720p is superior to 540p, but it is not superior to 1080i. 1080i is better. My 65" Panny does each HD scanrate independently of the other - 1080i and 720p stay with their own scanrates totally, there's a separate memory bank for each - and the differences between the 2 are easily demonstrable.

Have you ever seen the "window-slat" effect of 480p? Well 540p has that too. 1080i does not. You can still see the scanlines on 1080i on the right program material, but you really have to work at it.

In 480 or 540p you don't have to work at seeing the scanlines at all. If your setup is finely dialed in, they are right there in your face on nearly ALL program material. Very distracting.

Not so with 1080i.

b

Lee MD

03-12-10, 03:38 PM

For your screen to have the outer parts darker than the center section, the sidebars would have had to be brighter than the inner section all those years, and thus gotten worn down more than the center section. And I don't know of any manufacturer that did a white sidebars thing. Only black - in which case the wear on the sidebars areas should be lagging behind the center section - or gray, in which case no screenburn shoulda happened in those areas if the gray was of the proper light level. Worst case scenario there woulda been any lines of demarcation caused by a black vertical line on each side between the 4x3 content and the sidebars.

When I used to watch SD programming, I had grey bars on the sides. I never bothered to adjust the light level since I didn't know squat about burn in.

Mr Bob

03-12-10, 04:38 PM

For it to be in the condition you state it's in, those gray bars had to have been brighter than the program material in the 4x3 section. And for years of viewing.

In that case you have it easy. To correct your screenburn all you have to do is set those gray sidebars to being black instead, and run it for awhile that way now. May take awhile, but if the sidebars stay exactly where they were before, gray or black, it will eventually even itself out again and the screenburn will disappear.

b

Lee MD

03-12-10, 07:35 PM

Splicer010

03-12-10, 08:19 PM

There isn't an option of black or grey side bars. Using the TV tuner is grey only. The only way to have black sidebars is by using a set top box that uses black side bars on 4:3 material or a dvd player that plays 4:3 movies with black side bars. No other way for the H83 series to get black bars on the side.

And speaking of the bars being in the same place, I have never seen any 'H' series sets have a STB or DVD player in the same location as the built in tuner picture location. A STB or DVD is always wider than the tuner built into the set.

In my opinion, if the burn in is as bad as you describe, you should just check out craigs list for another CRT set. As Bob has already said, it can take YEARS to correct the problem as it took YEARS to get where it is at now.

Splicer010

03-12-10, 08:22 PM

Mr Bob

03-13-10, 01:33 PM

Yes and yes. About how long do you think it will take to even out?

How long do you think it took for it to get there? About the same amount of time.

You can compress that, of course, by cranking up your contrast to max, maybe by also putting it on an all white pattern in the inner section for the duration, so that the darker areas will start to catch up to the brighter areas and it will even out faster.

If you can't get black bars but need to stick with gray bars, an all white pattern in the same affected areas may be the only way you'll even things out, under the circs -

b

Mr Bob

03-13-10, 01:48 PM

Ok, so 1080p was only introduced because flat panel sets are only capable of progressive scan, yes?

Never saw the "windoe-slat effect" before. Never heard of it either.:o

No, CRTs woulda had 1080p also, had they continued to be produced. Gearing up for 1080p from i requires entirely new and lots more sophisticated circuitry, capable of much higher frequencies than for 1080i.

Fixed pixel knew they would be around for it. CRT knew it would not. So it was never designed for CRT RPTV. Only for ceiling pj CRT and fixed pixel.

CRT RPTVs coulda done 1080p standing on their heads, if the future had boded just a little bit better for them than it turned out doing. Since the end was near - and I saw it happening 2 years ahead of time when there were NO CRT RPTVs being promoted at CES that year - CRT folded without that new and beautiful 1080p tech being designed into it.

:(

Fortunately, CRT RPTVs don't really need 1080p to look dazzling. Nor do they need a 240 Hz refresh rate to not have stuttered movement, like lots of fixed pixel does.

CRT RPTV's fresnel/lenticular viewscreen format is still better than frosted plastic, so CRT does not have to deal with sparklies or hotspotting, like lots of the rear pj'd fixed pixel does. And it's much stronger and with a lot higher light level output than front/ceiling pj CRT also.

It also doesn't have to deal with the pastiness of the fleshtones I see in lots of the fixed pixel out there, nor the "busi-ness" in the static areas, due to poor upconversion from 1080i to their native res of 1080p. It's not that fixed pixel is only capable of progressive scanning. It's that 1080p is their native res, so everything has to wind up there, whether it started out as that or not. Just like 480p was the native res in the 480 range of all HDready CRT RPTVs, and so for anything that hit the set as 480i, we were all held hostage to how well the set itself did that 480i to p upconversion internally. So along came DVDO Iscan way back when 480p DVDPs were still thru the roof expensive with an affordable superior upconversion from 480i to 480p that could be used on regular 480i machines outboard, and the rest is history.

Fixed pixel will ONLY play 1080p, whether it's getting 1080p from your source or not. If the algorithms used in that upconversion from 1080i are crappy and not real sophisticated, on fixed pixel you'll get a crappy and unsophisticated picture when your source is 1080i.

1080i CRT RPTV still stands on its own as one of the best formats ever invented.

:cool:

b

PS - you've never seen scanlines more easily on 480p than on 1080i? You've never seen them stick out like a sore thumb because your sys is dialed in so well?

C'mon over to my place and I'll show ya.

;)

Lee MD

03-16-10, 03:10 PM

Well, I finally got the TV working. I popped my solder cherry and got the new resister installed. Booyah! Now how do I do all that fancy grid stuff?

Mr Bob

03-16-10, 03:20 PM

Lee MD

03-16-10, 03:31 PM

Very carefully...

:)

And make sure your 9 point is well dialed in before you go into service mode to do the good stuff. All lines on grids have to be UNcurved - straight and parallel even if they are not as close to where they need to be as they could be - before you go in.

Otherwise they will set up curvatures between points inside the service mode grids that cannot be remedied.

BTW, did that resistor show as burned, or did you have to ohm it to find out?

b

I've adjusted the 9 point conversion as best as I could. I did notice that "7" was slightly curved on the red. So you are saying I should straighten it out even though it will no longer be converged? Kinda confused.

As for the resistor, I ohmed it to realize it was bad. When I removed it, there was a big hole at the bottom.

Mr Bob

03-16-10, 03:56 PM

Let me get this straight - you are saying that in the area of the 7 corner of the 9 point - lower left hand corner - it does not line up properly without this curvature? You are speaking of the area where 7 is in the middle of that quadrant, right?

If you have to misalign your colors to get part of that quadrant to superimpose while another part of it is NOT superimposing correctly, where's the precision in that? Part of that quadrant will be in - probably the part around part of the 7 - and other parts of that quadrant will still be out. If curvatures are present in that area.

In the sm, you can get it all aligned properly around that 7 area, but not without straightening out any curvatures in that area in the 9 point.

b

Splicer010

03-16-10, 05:51 PM

I think you are confusing him. The 9 point is not a grid in any sense of the word. The 9 point is a series of 9 '+' or crosses that the red & blue align up to. Once they are aligned up, then when in the SM the actual grid appears and any curvatures can be seen & corrected then. IIRC the SM convergence is 56 or 57 points. It takes some serious time to get correct. I usually just rough the SM convergence one night, then the next night (or two) I fine tune (tweak) the settings. Make sure before you leave the SM that you press the Touch Focus to memorize the settings or you will lose them and will have to start all over. The reason I break it down into two nights (minimum) is because staring at the grid lines will take their toll on your eyes.

As a side not Bob, I decided to put my 51H83 in the bedroom anyway. Boy, it sure looks sweet and HUGE when lying in bed. Pretty :cool: actually. ;)

Mr Bob

03-16-10, 06:07 PM

Lee MD

03-16-10, 08:12 PM

Thank you guys for your guidance. I will tinker with the tv once I figure out what room to put it in.

Splicer010

03-17-10, 01:00 AM

Correctomundo Splicer, as usual. Thanks for fleshing that out.

If you're gonna use the Touch Focus, I recommend you do so before you do the fine precision work, as it may tow off some of your settings when you hit it.

Then do your fine precision work and never hit it again. Disconnect it, if you ask me.

Touch Focus only gets you close, like all the other auto conv sys's - Magic Focus, Flash Focus, along with the ones used with cameras by Vidikron, Electrohome, Runco etc - none of which actually have anything to do with focusing, only with converging.

Glad your bedroom is being slyly entertained now...

:p

b
It isn't a question of using Touch Focus. What pressing it after you have made your adjustments does is locks them into memory. If you leave SM without first pressing touchfocus to memorize the settings, then all the work will be lost and it will revert back to the convergence you first had and were attempting to correct. Believe me, I have screwed up many times when I first got the set and ended up redoing the convergence. On the H83 series (don't have a clue about any other) if you disconnect the touchfocus you may as well never try to set the convergence in SM again as it will be a waste of time.

Mr Bob

03-17-10, 01:48 AM

After doing sm level conv corrections, hit 7. All will be memorized, with or without Touch Focus.

b

HDTVChallenged

03-17-10, 03:16 AM

After doing sm level conv corrections, hit 7. All will be memorized, with or without Touch Focus.

b

Concur. On my 50H82 the SM TouchFocus step just zero's out the 9pt adjustments while memorizing the "new" center points. I have found that you need to make sure you've zeroed out the user menu center point adjustment before doing the SM 56pt work.

Either way, with the hyperboard is on its last legs, its days are numbered.

Mr Bob

03-17-10, 11:14 AM

Right, I don't believe the sm has a static conv set of crosshair registers for the red and blue, you have to set those in User before going into sm, for the nth degree of precision from your display.

After hitting 7 to memorize your sm point changes, keep hitting it to step thru until you're back where you started and you can do some more point conv changes. Finally when you're done, hit 7 one last time to do a final memorize of your point changes.

I believe you are limited to using their internal grid, so you will have to step to where you can see your own pic/grid, to see what still needs to be done to precision-up your point areas. I learned a great tip from a fellow calibrator, Louis Carliner - use post-its on your viewscreen at the areas your external pic/grid tells you need the work, for when you've "7 stepped" back to where you can actually make the changes. Then you know exactly where the work needs to take place.

The internal grids are not very useful for high precision convergence on most CRT RPTVs. The lines are usually way to hot and thick for high precision. On sets where this cannot be changed - like Tosh and Mit - you have to use real world video material - preferably thin-line mid-light-level grids - for the high precision work. On a Mit you have both sets of grids up there and have to avoid the internal Mit grids, on Tosh you don't even get that. All you get are the too-bright, too-thick internal grid lines while able to make changes. Knowing what is happening in real world video is essential, and the post-its assist in that, since you can't see the real world material when in the screen where the improvements take place.

Hitachi actually allows you to change the light level of its grids in its sm, it's the only brand I know of that allows for that. Once taken down to half the light level of factory, the internal grid lines there are extremely valuable, and completely usable for convergence after that, with no need of sending in your own fine grid lines.

No such luck with Toshiba, unfortunately...

:(

b

Lee MD

03-17-10, 04:26 PM

Thanks for clarifying the sm convergence. I would've had a fit if I lost my settings.

BTW, there are at least 4 Toshiba H83's on craiglist in my area.

atye

03-17-10, 07:45 PM

Been a long time since I've posted here. I still have my Toshiba 65H84. I've learned a lot here over the years
about tweaking various aspects of PQ. Unfortunately I have never been able to figure out grayscale. I had to have
the green tube replaced soon after buying the set, and the tech who put it in literally just put the new tube in, turned
the green level knob up and down until he liked the results, and left. I managed to get the picture at least watchable soon after,
but obviously things were still dubious. I have no equipment other than the color filters from the DVE Blu-Ray, and when I
look at the SMPTE color bars through the filters, there's obviously a serious issue.

I just got a 42" plasma for the bedroom, and I've been very impressed with how easy it's been to find info on SM adjustments.
Within a very short time I've gotten the red, green and blue filters to look like they're supposed to look viewing the color bars,
and also the flashing material in the AVSHD disc. I'd like to try and get at least close to a workable grayscale with the Toshiba, so is there
any information someone like me can use to at least have a base to go from with cuts and drives in the service menu?

Splicer010

03-17-10, 09:15 PM

After doing sm level conv corrections, hit 7. All will be memorized, with or without Touch Focus.

b

You know what? You and HDTVchallenged are 100% correct. Pressing '7' is how the new settings are memorized. The settings get put into the Touch Focus memory. Sorry. (See? Told you I had'nt done mine in awhile.;) ) I have my instructions in an envelope I tape to the back of the set (very handy little trick I might add) along with all the values of my set I have written down. Haven't looked at them in some time now.

And you know what else? I'm thinking I was way off on how long it has been since I adjusted my convergence. It hasn't been 6 months, it probably has been over a year. Man, this is embarrassing.

Splicer010

03-17-10, 09:30 PM

Also, I just happened across a service facility that can do ALOT for those who need service on things like hyper boards. They have many different things in stock and the prices aren't too bad depending on what it is you need. If they don't have any in stock, they can rebuild your part for you. This may or may not help, but they have a part I need for my DLP TV that everyone else wants hundreds of dollars for, for not much over a hundred. So I checked for parts for my H83 and they have whatever I might need. However, if you have a part # to cross-reference that would be ideal as I see many parts that are different numbers bearing the same descriptive word.

Bob is probably aware of this company but here it is for those that have not:

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/Default.aspx

As I said, they helped me big time so it is another avenue if you have not already tried them. And they have for ALL brands/models of TV's.

The internal grids are not very useful for high precision convergence on most CRT RPTVs. The lines are usually way to hot and thick for high precision. I completely agree. After I finish playing and setting the DLP, I am headed to the bedroom to work on the H83.

Mr Bob

03-17-10, 10:10 PM

Yes, we in the repair biz have been using PTS for years. They do so many things, it's incredible!

b

penst8grad

03-31-10, 09:31 PM

I guess I'm supposed to post questions into this thread. First post after lots of reading (and google).

My 46h83 crapped the bed today. When I got home I was greeted with "the tv won't turn on" My daughter was playing with buttons and it indeed doesn't come on.

Here's teh symptoms...black screen with no sound. Power LED comes on but does not blink. Relays click, but TV never "comes to life". Going from memory I should hear 2 relays, but only hear one.

I suspect a power or power board issue, but I'm shooting from the hip. Any thoughts?

I had planned on replacing this TV soon, but really wanted to wait a few more months and give it to in-laws. Looking at the Tosh 42zv650u but am scared by some of the reviews.

Splicer010

03-31-10, 11:51 PM

My 51H83 only has 1 relay that clicks when turning on. Wonder why yours has 2? Anyway it sounds like you have a bad relay if you usually hear 2 but now only 1 is working. Sometimes if you pull the relay and reseat it, it will function normally again.

Mr Bob

04-01-10, 09:47 AM

If you want to stick with CRT (the best), I have 2 CRT triple gun displays ready for new homes (I'm keeping my largest one, the Mit 73" CRT RPTV, they will have to pry it out of my cold dead hands...!)

:p

One is a fully calibrated Panny 65", the other is an untouched Pioneer Elite 610, 58".

Both are capable of sending you to the moon...

My experience with Tosh on repairs like this has been so abysmal that I won't even try to repair one in the field unless it's a convergence issue, which is usually pretty straightforward.

But when the protection kicks in, it can come from anywhere. Not interested...

If you want a set that will last and will allow for the nth degree of suspension of disbelief and keep you on the edge of you seat for years to come, come over and take a look at what I have here -

b

penst8grad

04-01-10, 11:27 AM

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to downsize my set size. This TV came with me from a previous home and is marginally too big for the room. A 42" is a better size. I'd like to give this to in-laws instead of junking it. I would imagine there is some salvagable parts since it worked and looked great before yesterday.

Where is the best place to DL a service manual? I'll give it a shot. Since I repair TelCO equipment all day I'm comfortable with schematics. I won't dive in too deep though since I won't have most of the specialized equipment necessary.

snowbum007

04-01-10, 03:58 PM

I have a question for the collective wisdom. Several months ago my wife (got married in June 09) cleaned our 57HX83 with glass cleaner. :eek: There are now spots where she sprayed the cleaner and I assume these are where the ammonia removed the anti-glare coating. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks for the help.
Kurt

Mr Bob

04-01-10, 05:15 PM

penst8grad

04-01-10, 08:00 PM

www.servicemanuals.net Very reasonable

b

Thanks Bob. So many places to DL one cannot tell who is a scammer.

Mr Bob

04-01-10, 08:05 PM

Yup.

:p

;)

penst8grad

04-01-10, 10:26 PM

Well I DL'd the manual and looked at what I could...not much. There isn't much room to work and I'm not poking around in places I cannot see very well. I guess I'll offer it to the in-laws as is and if they want to spend $$ to get it fixed they can.

Otherwise it's gonna be parted out or scrapped. The frugal side of me hates throwing things that are probably fixable out.

Splicer010

04-02-10, 12:17 AM

There isn't much room to work and I'm not poking around in places I cannot see very well.There is ample room to work. Just unplug the board from the chasis and remove it. OR...this would be the perfect excuse to try that new fangled invention that all the kids have been talking about. They call it...the flashlight.;)

penst8grad

04-02-10, 01:40 PM

There is ample room to work. Just unplug the board from the chasis and remove it. OR...this would be the perfect excuse to try that new fangled invention that all the kids have been talking about. They call it...the flashlight.;)

LOL. That sounds like a double-dog-dare so I got into it more.

I haven't been able to get the board out too much shielding and things attached, but I have disassembled enough to see better. Every fuse that I have access to is fine. I can't put a meter on the relay(s) because of the location that they are in.

Like I said earlier, I'm not wading in too far because I'm out of my realm with TV's. Calling the shop today.

Mr Bob

04-02-10, 02:46 PM

Now you see why aside from convergence issues I swore off repairing Toshibas long ago...

:rolleyes:

b

penst8grad

04-03-10, 12:59 PM

Now you see why aside from convergence issues I swore off repairing Toshibas long ago...

:rolleyes:

b

Certainly understandable. The shop that I called is checking it for $40. I got called to work and dropped it off on my way. I'll know mid-week what's going on.

If anyone is interested in parts, let me know. I'm not cinking a lot of money into a TV I'm giving away. I think I'm going to order the Panasonic P42G25 in a few days.

etcarroll

04-03-10, 04:52 PM

Certainly understandable. The shop that I called is checking it for $40. I got called to work and dropped it off on my way. I'll know mid-week what's going on.

If anyone is interested in parts, let me know. I'm not cinking a lot of money into a TV I'm giving away. I think I'm going to order the Panasonic P42G25 in a few days.

Where are you located?

penst8grad

04-12-10, 04:07 PM

Repair shop called. $146 to fix it. No new TV for me.

Repair guy explained it like this. Two relays in the TV. 1st relay powers up then TV does diagnostics. If it passes the 2nd relay is powered and it comes on.

The surge protector is between the 2 relays and that was what went bad, most likely from daughter playing with remote.

Now I will most likely need to do cleaning and convergence.

Splicer010

04-12-10, 04:32 PM

And this is bad news...why? Repair the set, then give a fully functioning, CLEANED RP HD television to the inlaws as a gift. Then you can get your new, smaller set.

Mr Bob

04-12-10, 05:41 PM

That kind of price is extremely reasonable considering normal electronics repair costs.

b

penst8grad

04-12-10, 07:35 PM

I thought so too Mr Bob. Part was ~$9.00.

Talked to the repair guy and he talked about what a PITA there are to work on. He had a few LCD's, LED's, and Plasma's on the bench and he showed me the insides of newer technology both good/bad. Was nice to support a mom & pop business too.

Not sure if they cleaned and aligned the picture. Bill lists "Servicer Adjust". It looks great, but that might be because of watching a 23" TV for over a week.

Splicer, it was tongue-in-cheek. In-laws will get this TV later this year when prices fall on the 2010 models (and wife gets new furniture).

larryt36

05-01-10, 07:25 AM

I own the Toshiba 46H84...It has been a great TV...I've just purchased a new TV and want to sell this one. Can anyone suggest a price? I've done some google/ebay searches and couldn't find a used one for sale.

WaltA

05-01-10, 09:42 AM

Same here. My old 46HX83 is just sitting in storage in my basement.

I guess you could list yours on eBay, for local pickup only (too big/heavy for FedEx ;) ), with a starting bid of $1, and see where it goes. Honestly, it is only worth anything, if you could find someone who wants a RPTV w/o even a QAM tuner.

larryt36

05-01-10, 12:26 PM

Splicer010

05-01-10, 01:08 PM

Mr Bob

05-01-10, 01:21 PM

Man after my own heart...

:D

b

larryt36

05-01-10, 06:43 PM

Good luck, you'll need it. 65" sets are available everyday on craigslist for $350 and lower. You are likely looking at around $200 if lucky.

I refuse to sell my 51H83 for that little of an amount, so I put it in my bedroom and it is used daily.

Ohh...Well, I'm going to be content with whatever I get for it...Heck, I may even give it to my daughter..She's buying her first house in a couple of weeks.

adam856

05-03-10, 11:32 AM

When I look had the 56 point convergance grid the blue on the bottom left corner curves really bad. To set this straight I have to get it lined up on the 9 point first, so when I'm trying to line it up I may have the blue cross away from the red and green. Something like the two below ? I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly.
+
+ Red and green set here but to get a straight line I moved the blue up. Then in the 56 point grid I can readjust the lines back together....:confused:

Splicer010

05-03-10, 12:17 PM

Are you saying that the 2 crosses (red, Blue) are that far apart? That sounds like a bad convergence. I don't recall ever seeing my H83 have the crosses that far apart.

adam856

05-03-10, 12:34 PM

Are you saying that the 2 crosses (red, Blue) are that far apart? That sounds like a bad convergence. I don't recall ever seeing my H83 have the crosses that far apart.

Not that far apart. When I do the 9 point I get the crosses all lined up with each other no problem. Then in the 56 point the blue grid curves away from the red and green and I'm not sure how to straighten that line out so it matches up.
My set is the 51h83.

Splicer010

05-03-10, 12:42 PM

You should just have to move each line a little and as you work your way down you will see the line you are working on drws in the line above/below what you are moving. This is why you have to work the kinks out a little at a time. I also have the 51H83 and it is a great set. One of the best performing, most reliable of all CRT HD RPTVs that I have read about.

Mr Bob

05-03-10, 01:08 PM

adam856

05-03-10, 05:55 PM

Right.

Yes the adjoining points are interactive with each other, necessitating going gradually and back and forth between/among them, all around.

The lines in the sm grid need to be parallel to each other out of the starting gate before you can really trick out the convergence all across the screen, in the sm. So the 9 points need to be worked with till all lines are parallel, even if it separates the crosses a lot, in the 9 point User. That separation can be corrected fairly directly in the sm, on its grid.

In the sm grid you cannot correct such curvatures, they turn into flaws between points. Nothing between points can be corrected in sm. The points are all we get.

Curvatures can only be corrected in the 9 point User section by returning the grid to factory status of fully parallel lines, in there. Which holds when you go into sm. Then in sm you correct how far apart the now-parallel crosses have become, in response to being made parallel in User.

Curvatures: 9 point
Distance apart: sm grid

b

First off thanks splicer I just keep going back at it today and it's getting better.

I still have some curve in there...so say in the 9 point, quadrant 9 I may have to separate the cross to get the lines straight or am I just not getting them tight enough together which is showing up as curves :confused:in the 56 point grid. ? It's been almost a year since I last used the convergence and those curves were no there before.

Sorry if I'm being a pain but these curves are new to me and it's affecting pic quality in that area.

Mr Bob

05-03-10, 06:47 PM

Separate them in the 9 point to straighten them out, put them back together with the sm grid.

b

adam856

05-03-10, 07:00 PM

Separate them in the 9 point to straighten them out, put them back together with the sm grid.

b

I knew you and splicer would set me straight.

Thank you.............untill I return here for optic cleaning....buhahahahah:p:D

Mr Bob

05-03-10, 08:46 PM

Feel free to contact me directly about that. I don't put that info out on the net anymore, I get misquoted on it too often, get credited with things I would NOT recommend doing. Prefer to retain control over my guidance of your moves, over where you are, on optics cleaning.

b

Splicer010

05-03-10, 09:32 PM

But if you search, I have posted about cleaning my optics using Bob's advice so you can't go wrong either way. ;)

Mr Bob

05-03-10, 10:19 PM

Yes if they find your repeat of my info I would trust it.

b

larryt36

05-05-10, 04:00 PM

I think I'll try Craigslist and friends 1st...I was thinking $350....I'll try and post how that works out.

Well...I've had it listed for a few days now and have ZERO contacts...I even made fliers and put them up at work...I guess this technology is too out-dated to sell for my asking price when people can get a Plasma or LCD for $600!

eugovector

05-05-10, 04:08 PM

My 51h83 was listed for $350 on craigslist with a DVI port that no longer made the HDCP handshake, but still had the box. It ended up going for $175. This was last August in NY.

larryt36

05-05-10, 04:10 PM

My 51h83 was listed for $350 on craigslist with a DVI port that no longer made the HDCP handshake, but still had the box. It ended up going for $175. This was last August in NY.

Wow...Mine actually has an HDMI connection and it works....I just changed the selling price to $300....I'll see if that helps....

eugovector

05-05-10, 04:20 PM

I thought the 83s were all DVI, is yours an 84?

larryt36

05-05-10, 04:29 PM

I thought the 83s were all DVI, is yours an 84?

Yep, it is!

WaltA

05-05-10, 04:43 PM

Mine is just shy of getting the "Free to good home" sign. ;)

larryt36

05-05-10, 06:05 PM

Mine is just shy of getting the "Free to good home" sign. ;)

I think we're probably guilty of giving them too much sentimental value and unless we set a price super low, it just won't get sold...I'm willing to hold out a couple of weeks with hopes that someone will buy it before I decide to go much lower :-)

Splicer010

05-05-10, 09:00 PM

I paid $1350 for my 51H83. But that was 6 years ago. I have absolutely fotten my moneys worth out of it and still am. I would donate it to Goodwill or give it to a nursing home before I would accept $175. But I think I'll just keep it in the bedroom where i moved it last month.

I do have sentimental value in the set or otherwise I would'nt have any problem selling it if I wanted to get rid of it. But I do love the set, the HD picture is outstanding. I have put it in the bedroom because I bought a Toshiba DLP set that is bigger and sharper picture for a price I couldn't pass up. Otherwise I'd still have the 51H83 in the living room and I'd be watching Dancing w/the Stars in HD and my HD DVD movies still.

But as much as I love the 51H83, I know it won't be around a whole lot longer since essentially all it is is a HD monitor. Now my sons 30HF83 direct view set has an incredible picture (tho it weighs more than the 51H83) that bests the RPTV in my opinion. Got that for set for $65.

CRT is just worth only pennies on the dollar now. So I say keep them as long as you can, it isn't worth getting rid of them. And you'll never have the same movie like experience in your home with any other technology, unless it's DLP, which in my opinion is the closest to CRT quality picture only better.

So to recap: Living room - Toshiba 56" HD DLP, master bedroom - Toshiba 51" CRT HD RPTV, sons room - Toshiba 30" CRT HD direct view. We like Toshiba around here.;)

jeshuascully

08-11-10, 03:20 PM

About a month ago, my fiance and I purchased a 57 inch 57h84 from toshiba for $20. It had a problem where it would turn off every 5 minutes to 2 hours. We did some research and thought it was an overheating problem. When we first got the TV, we placed a high power fan behind the power cord in the back. It never overheated once. About 3 weeks later, the set started overheating. It happened after I went into the convergence settings. I was trying to fix the red color being very strong, and I was exploring the settings on the menu. Since then, it began overheating. I have tried adjusting the convergence settings again, but to no avail.

After some research and multiple tries at the convergence, I found many things telling me the specific parts that might be overheating. I was wondering if someone can help me go through the process to figure out what is going on. I also read that the convergence IC's that come stock in the TV are prone to overheating, so I found them online for about 25 dollars for a set of 2 in order to replace both.

Anyways. I WOULD LOVE SOME HELP. It's my fiance's birthday on 8/12, and I was hoping to figure it out by then. Otherwise no time limit, but help is greatly appreciated!

Splicer010

08-11-10, 05:58 PM

Well Happy Birthday to the little lady! As for overheating, I haven't heard of this being an issue before. I have the 51H83 (prior year than yours) and (knock on wood) never a problem in the 6+ years of ownership/use of the TV.

Actually, these are one of the most reliable sets available, but the biggest PITA to repair should something go bad. Those IC's aren't going to be real easy to swap out either.

If I were you, I would take off the back panel off and carefully vacuum all the dust, dirt and cobwebs in there. Remove the screen and clean the lenses. Finally, if you went into the service menu, I hope you wrote down all the ORIGINAL VALUES before you started mucking with stuff. If you only used the 9 point convergence, then PHEW! Glad you didn't change anything in the service menu. User menu is no biggy. Red overdrive needs to be fixed in the SM, as convergence won't help at all with that issue. Convergence only converges the 3 guns to make 1 image. If you have an image and it is 'ghosting' with red, that is indeed a convergence issue.

Likely Your issue is convergence IC's, which are not easy to swap but a helluvalot cheaper than a new TV. Now, Go to the topic 'Don't Dump your CRT' here at AVS and search for cleaning the lenses. I and others have posted Pics before and after and instructions. The cleaning is really easy and only takes an hour or so.

Post again if you need help. The Toshiba 'H' line of CRT HD RPTV's are, in my opinion, worth keeping going. I love Toshiba so much, all 3 HDTV's in the house are Toshiba, my HD DVD player(s) and Blu-ray player are ALL the Toshiba brand. ;)

jeshuascully

08-15-10, 11:25 PM

I was wondering if someone might help guide me through the cleaning procedure for the 57h84. :o

I want to do everything I can to fix the TV before I order and swap the convergence IC's.

If you feel bold, you can even give me a call at 757-748-3408 or just text first and say its about the TV.

Much love to anyone helps me out.
I adore this TV and hope it comes back to life with a little magic

Thanks!

95MustangGT

08-16-10, 02:48 AM

Splicer010

08-16-10, 01:13 PM

Unfortunately, EACH set is different, no 2 have the same settings. This is why it is so strongly advocated in every forum to WRITE DOWN EACH AND EVERY VALUE BEFORE ANY CHANGES ARE MADE. With that said, here are my settings for my H83 and I hope it gets you back in the ball park, but that is iffy:

rcut - 91H;however I changed the value to 6FH
bcut - 72H; changed to 72H
gcut - 80H; changed to 6AH

Good luck. Let us know what happens.

Splicer010

08-16-10, 01:19 PM

Splicer010

08-16-10, 01:34 PM

hey guys,

im brand new to this forum, and im in need of help

i purchased my 65h84c about 2 weeks ago and when i first had it, it had a slight red tint. i fixed that in the s menu. Now i accidentally just went though the s menu and switched up certain things i shouldn't have. The picture is unsharp, it takes 6 seconds to switch to a different channel and i don't know what to do :mad:

if any of you guys with an 65h84c or 65h84 can help me out i would greatly appreciate it!

all i need for you to do is write down all your s menu (service menu) settings

rcut
gcut
bcut

etc.

i believe there are 127 for this model

i really need this guys. All i want is for my tv to work properly again :(

please someone help me out

thanks,
marcel

Just noticed you want ALL 127 values?! Not good. You may have hosed your set. Certain values are specific for the 65" sets and mine is a 51". It would take ALOT of work and time for me to transfer EVERY setting to here and knowing it won't help, I have no motivation to do as much.

But I'll tell you what I am willing to do. YOU post all of your current values here, and I'll look thru the #'s and post my #'s. See what we can come up with.

95MustangGT

08-16-10, 10:34 PM

okay man that sounds good, better than nothing i guess.

to ANYONE WHO HAS A 65H84 or 65H84C please post all of your settings THANK YOU I GREATLY APPRECIATE THE EFFORT

okay here we go

RCUT 40H
GCUT 65H
BCUT 45H
RDRV 30H
BDRV 3EH
BRTX 32H
BRTN 32H
COLX 80H
COLN FCH
TNTX 30H
TNTN 1OH
SHPT 27H
APS 1DH
UVTT 46h
WCTX5AH
WCTC 35H
WCTN 00H
RGBB 50H
RGBC 60H
SCNT 5FH
CNTX 60H
BRTC 90H
COLC 5BH
CNTC 50H
CNTX 10H
ABL 00H
BS1 51H
R-Y 65H
G-Y 55H
COLTN A1H
COLOR 50H
DABL 2AH
DCTRN 10H
VSM 40H
GAMMA F5H
OSD 30H
WPL 70H
COMP 02H
SCP 15H
BLUE 20H
YGDL 50H
OSCT 10H
OSBR 00H
OSCL 00H
OSTT 00H
OSSH 00H
OSRC FBH
OSBC 01H
OSRD 06H
OSBD 00H
MUTT 20H
STAT 10H
E1CTX 50H
E1CTC 30H
E1ABL 10H
E1DTR 83H
E2CTX 50H
E2BRT 30H
E2ABL 10H
E2DTR 83H
ACBON 08H
SHPX 80H
SHPN 00H
DCTR1 E5H
DCTR2 6BH
DCTR3 7BH
GAMMO 00H
GAMM1 50H
GAMM2 55H
GAMM3 63H
VSM1 E8H
VSM2 64H
VSM3 9CH
BSON 26H
HPOS 4FH
OPT1 08H
OPT2 80H
TVOP 40H
HIT 39H
LIN 10H
VSC 2CH
VPOS 3FH
VCP 05H
WID 4DH
PARA 0BH
CNR 20H
TRAP 40H
HCP 00H
VFC 00H
CNRT 20H
CNRB 10H
HSC 00H
VCEN 70H
CPAR 08H
CSAW 08H
DFV 08H
AGC1 08H
AG2 00H
PLLWO 14H
PLLW1 03H
PLLW2 0FH
PLLW3 05H
PLLW4 12H
PLLW5 FEH
VO1 25H
V25 45H
V50 60H
V75 70H
MODH 25H
MODL 91H
PRES 70H
SCTN 55H
SCTL 00H
YOF 1BH
BOF FDH
ROF 0EH

thanks man i appreciate it form the heart :o, i have been looking everywhere! is there maybe some kind of reset button??

Splicer010

08-17-10, 12:34 AM

okay man that sounds good, better than nothing i guess.

to ANYONE WHO HAS A 65H84 or 65H84C please post all of your settings THANK YOU I GREATLY APPRECIATE THE EFFORT

okay here we go

thanks man i appreciate it form the heart :o, i have been looking everywhere! is there maybe some kind of reset button??
Well, Just to prove my point, look at the R, B, G cut values you posted vs. the #'s I already posted. Waaaaaaay different. Anyway, my #'s are next to yours but in red. As for a reset button, there isn't. As I said before, each and every TV is unique and different and has different #'s. Even a service manual won't help you. And BTW, do you even know (remember) WHICH value(s) you changed are?

And while I hope I am wrong and someone with your set will post, I doubt it will happen due to the age and technology of these sets being so old and outdated. Hell, CRT isn't produced anymore, which is a shame.

So, here it goes (NOTE - being my set is a H83 and yours a H84, the H84 will have some values my H83 doesn't have due to 'improvements' and/or renaming on your model. The following list will be incomplete in a side by side comparison.):

'NV' = I have no number for that value

RCUT 40H red cutoff 91H
GCUT 65H green cutoff 80H
BCUT 45H blue cutoff 72H
RDRV 30H red drive 41H
BDRV 3EH blue drive 53H
BRTX 32H
BRTN 32H
COLX 80H
COLN FCH
TNTX 30H
TNTN 1OH
SHPT 27H
APS 1DH
UVTT 46h
WCTX5AH
WCTC 35H
WCTN 00H
RGBB 50H
RGBC 60H
SCNT 5FH sub contrast 0CHN
CNTX 60H - DUPLICATE ACRONYM DIFFERENT VALUE
BRTC 90H bright center 78H
COLC 5BH color center - 'NV'
CNTC 50H
CNTX 10H - DUPLICATE ACRONYM DIFFERENT VALUE
ABL 00H
BS1 51H
R-Y 65H
G-Y 55H
COLTN A1H
COLOR 50H
DABL 2AH
DCTRN 10H
VSM 40H ?
GAMMA F5H
OSD 30H
WPL 70H
COMP 02H
SCP 15H
BLUE 20H
YGDL 50H
OSCT 10H
OSBR 00H
OSCL 00H
OSTT 00H
OSSH 00H
OSRC FBH
OSBC 01H
OSRD 06H
OSBD 00H
MUTT 20H
STAT 10H
E1CTX 50H
E1CTC 30H
E1ABL 10H
E1DTR 83H
E2CTX 50H
E2BRT 30H
E2ABL 10H
E2DTR 83H
ACBON 08H
SHPX 80H
SHPN 00H
DCTR1 E5H
DCTR2 6BH
DCTR3 7BH
GAMMO 00H
GAMM1 50H
GAMM2 55H
GAMM3 63H
VSM1 E8H ?
VSM2 64H ?
VSM3 9CH ?
BSON 26H
HPOS 4FH horizontal image position - 'NV'
OPT1 08H option 1 00H
OPT2 80H 84H
TVOP 40H 58H
HIT 39H height 35H
LIN 10H vertical linearty 13H
VSC 2CH vert. s-correction 29H
VPOS 3FH vert. image position - 'NV'
VCP 05H vert. compensation 05H
WID 4DH width 4EH
PARA 0BH parabale (pincushion) 10H
CNR 20H corner parabale 10H
TRAP 40H 40H
HCP 00H horiz. compensation 00H
VFC 00H v-f correct 00H
CNRT 20H
CNRB 10H my list says BCNR, yours CNRB my value 10H
HSC 00H 10H
VCEN 70H vertical position - 'NV'
CPAR 08H 08H
CSAW 08H 08H
DFV 08H 08H
AGC1 08H
AG2 00H
PLLWO 14H
PLLW1 03H
PLLW2 0FH
PLLW3 05H
PLLW4 12H
PLLW5 FEH
VO1 25H
V25 45H
V50 60H
V75 70H
MODH 25H
MODL 91H
PRES 70H
SCTN 55H
SCTL 00H
The following on my set are labeled as AYOF, BYOF,ABOF, BBOF & AROF, BROF and your set has only one parameter where-as my set has two (A & B) and ALL values are the same 00H
YOF 1BH
BOF FDH
ROF 0EH

I spent about an hour on this post and believe I have everything I have transferred. I gave definitions of the acronyms for the one I have. And just as you have parameters that I have no values for, I have parameters you don't have written also. Don't let that discourage you too much tho, as the list I have has parameters listed my set doesn't have (the list was for a different model set also).

So, I hope this helps. Make certain you change only the values you already changed ONLY! Should you be fortunate enough to fix the set, WRITE DOWN EACH AND EVERY VALUE AND PUT THE LIST IN AN ENVELOPE AND TAPE TO THE BACK OF THE SET SO THEY CANNOT BE MISPLACED AND ARE THERE SHOULD YOU EVER NEED THEM. Also if you do change something, mark it on the list so you know which parameter was changed and the new value assigned to that parameter, making a note of which value is the original. This is in case you hose something again and need to revert back to the original value. I also saw you have two (2) parameters listed using the SAME acronym but different values. You might want to look into that because I have never heard of that before and one or both might be wrong and I may or may not have a value to place. There were several parameters you did not list and that I have. But as I said in the beginning, the sets and program changed from year to year due to 'improvements' & renaming.

You just learned a valuable lesson about writing things down before you just jump in and start changing things. Good luck to you and let me know how things go.

Splicer010

08-17-10, 12:45 AM

jeshuascully

08-17-10, 10:11 PM

about those who tried to call me to help clean my 57h84, my phone is dead yall. I can't receive any calls, but if you email me at jeshuascully@gmail.com, then i will call you during hours that you tell me in the email. Please make sure to tell me your time zone.

Thank you all so much! this forum is awesome.

95MustangGT

08-17-10, 11:06 PM

thanks for all the effort but the picture is not much better, it still takes 5 seconds to switch to another channel

thank you anyways i appreciate it!

95MustangGT

08-17-10, 11:20 PM

TO ANYBODY WHO HAS A 65H84 OR 65H84C PLEASE POST YOUR S MENU SETTINGS IM BEGGING YOU!!

press the mute button twice and hold it down and press menu on the tv to enter it then press menu on the remote to go all trough them

you go through them with the channel button please!!!! dont press the volume button!!!!!!!!

i really need this!!

PLEASE SOMEONE WITH A 65H84 POST UR S MENU (Servie Menu SETTINGS)

Thanks

Mr Bob

08-18-10, 09:40 AM

Be VERY careful when doing this - when he says don't press the Volume button he means it!

Any changes made in sm on Tosh's aside from point convergence - which requires a mem command to memorize - get memorized instantly and permanently until changed again.

If you accidentally change one because the Volume is adjacent to the Channel button on the remote and you didn't notice you were pressing the Volume button and didn't record where it started, that change will be permanent until changed again. Instantly.

THERE ARE NO MEMORIZATION COMMANDS NEEDED OR REQUIRED. IT'S AUTOMATIC. YOU DON'T GET A CHOICE! Instant memorization takes place whether you want it to or not. You change it, you got it.

So do it slowly and consciously, and don't allow yourself to be distracted!

b

muslenutz

09-05-10, 08:30 PM

I had to take down my home theater for now so I need to use the speakers on my tv. In the audio settings MTS is grayed out and it says mono on the right. I have hooked it up several ways and I am not sure if I am in stereo. If I unplug the L or R component cable, each speaker will go out. Does anyone else have this issue for toshiba owners?

Splicer010

09-06-10, 12:37 AM

Depends on the programming as to what you hear.

GHBunce

09-09-10, 12:29 PM

I just got a 65H84 last night for almost free and it looks great, but on the trip home I knocked a few cobwebs loose behind the screen so I need to clean it.
I ran through most of this post...many pages...and can't find any instructions on how to remove the front panel on my 65H84. Is there a service manual or instructions available. I see lots of info about wires and connections, but also lots of 'be careful' warnings so i want to know what I'm doing before I start.;)

Splicer010

09-09-10, 01:08 PM

:) Oh my, this is but an easy request.

Remove the speaker grill. Pull gently at the bottom and the tabs will pop out. Be firm but not rough. Remove the bottom 2 silver trim pieces then the screws along the bottom of the bezel. Then remove the screws accessible from the rear of the set. Gently pull off the bezel & screen but be careful. At the bottom are delicate white wires. These are the light sensor wires. If possible, have a second set of hands available to unplug the harness. Then remove the screen, clean all 3 lenses and use SPRAYEAY and a GOOD micro fiber towel, not a cheap one. Clean the first surface mirror, clean out the cobwebs.

GHBunce

09-09-10, 02:34 PM

Outstandfing! Thanks!
I'm on my way then...

Mr Bob

09-09-10, 05:55 PM

Fair warning to anyone contemplating cleaning their optics on CRT RPTVs - the lens surfaces are plastic and extremely delicate, very susceptible to being scratched, which is permanent damage. Or scuffed, which is thousands of tiny permanent scratches at once.

The mirror is a first surface, front surface mirror, you won't be cleaning any glass in there. So some elements of regular glass cleaning methods are completely out the window.

I personally don't recommend microfibre towels in my optics cleaning methods. They don't have nearly the absorption I need for my professional cleaning services on these great machines. They just don't remove the moisture properly, and leave lots of excess moisture that then evaporates, leaving very thick streaks. That produces residues that dry on your surfaces. The microfibre cloth is then wet and dirty and in need of cleaning itself, which makes it just kinda useless, IMHO.

I am available if anybody wants to contact me directly for how I do it.

b

GHBunce

09-10-10, 10:04 AM

I've noticed that most of the TV channels I'm watching (even HD broadcasts) appear quite pixelated and 'blurry'. Could this be due to the S-Video connection to the set from the the A/V receiver?
I hooked up the X-Box using the HDMI cable & the picture looks better but I still feel it's more pixelated than it should be.
Could this be a calibration or adjustment issue of some sort?
Do I simply need to keep playing with the hook ups?

Mr Bob

09-10-10, 12:32 PM

If you're using S video for your connections, you're not even in HD territory. Of course it will look blurry compared to true HD, and I would not be surprised about pixellization, tho that is not usually seen on non-HD material.

S is strictly old style 480i territory. It's better than composite 480i, but nothing compared to what component or HDMI is capable of. And even HDMI can deliver raunchy performance if not set up properly.

HDMI can be any scanrate from 480i to 1080p, depending on what your source has been told to send out thru it. But even if you have told your source to send out 1080i/p, via S you will never get anything more than 480i.

Pixellization these days is usually caused by bit starvation.

b

Splicer010

09-10-10, 12:34 PM

I would run everything component or HDMI for your set. Forget the 'S' video and composite connections. I can't stand the quality of SD thru a SD connection on these TVs. I have the 51H83 is what I am making comparison from. HD looks fantastic on it. SD (using cable and TV tuner for the analog channels) is acceptable but not to be watched if there is a choice. I presume you mean Xbox 360 and not just the Xbox original?

Mr Bob

09-10-10, 12:45 PM

I don't think the original Xbox had HDMI, did it? That was too long ago, I think...

Yes, it's a well known fact that due to what has to happen to the analog sig on a digital device - up/down conversions, transcodings etc - you actually get a better picture on analog using an analog, non-HD set when playing analog material. The 35" Mit CRT directviews are fantastic for playing laserdiscs and VCR material. That same material just simply suffers if you try to play it on today's digital displays.

On those you really gotta play digital material for it to look right. Which may or may not be HD.

b

Splicer010

09-10-10, 12:57 PM

Very true.

OVRPWRD

11-07-10, 09:26 PM

i know... search. I did but this is one LONG thread. I have a 6yr old toshiba 46h84 that I bought new. For the last year or so it would randomly just shut off(red power light blinks) I would unplug/plug back in and it would be fine for a while. Well now it shuts off(red power light blinks) I wait, plug it back in and the screen gets blue for about 2-3 seconds and just shuts off.
Any ideas... is this common? This is our 2nd TV, does not get used much. I hate to put alot of $$ into it. New ones have come down quite a bit in the last few years. Should I just junk it??
Thanks for any help for a newb:)

Mr Bob

11-08-10, 10:35 AM

On the Pioneer Elite CRTs, this is a sure sign of cold solder joints on the power supply board. If it only does this sort of thing after warming up, that's when cold solder joints start to let go.

That said, Tosh is one of the most technician UNfriendly brands out there, probably next only to the ProScans, neither of which I will work on in the field because of this. Aside from convergence repairs, where I will work on all brands.

Get someone in there who recognizes cold solder joints and see if he can find any.

If you still have blue, that means you still have sweep, HV and a dozen other things working properly. You're way ahead of the game with that being true. Most of your set works, there's just some niggly something in there that needs correction.

b

OVRPWRD

11-12-10, 10:20 PM

It actually does it any time. But now only when its cold because it wont stay on long enough to get warm:mad:

dlenart25

11-16-10, 02:26 PM

Hi Bob,

Had the most unfortunate thing happen to my 51H84. It was calibrated about 4 years ago and the reflective screen removed and i have to say you just can't beat the beautiful filmlike picture of a good ole RPTV. And those painted blacks are too die for! It's a nice change of pace to watching movies on the Plasma.

In ay event, here's the rather unfortunate scoop. 3 year old was running around in the basement HT room. Wife calls me at work and says, OMG your son just ran into the TV and caved in the screens. So i get home and inspect the fresnel and lenticular. The Fresnel had a minor scratch and the lenticular has a couple imperfections on the outer edges, i guess i can live with that seeing as how difficult and pricey it prob is to replace. So i take TV apart (i've done this many a time) and restack the fresnel and lenticular (Fresnel smooth side facing mirror, rough side facing outward.) Once i get the TV put back together i notice the four corners of the TV are a fair bit darker and blurier than the center of the screen. This is fairly obvious to even the untrained eye. I also noticed some color uniformity issues going on. It appears the right side of the screen is running a bit warmer (bluish) and the left side of the screen is running cooler (orangish/red). It's not a night and day thing but apparent to a good eye. Next i go into service menu convergence mode. To my suprise the outer edges of the screen are very, very blury. Were not just talking about the extreme outer edges being just a smidgen more blurred than the center of the screen here (which is to be expected) were talking about 1.5 - 2"'s of really blurred convergence grid lines.

I tried flipping the lenticular around but that gave me an undesired effect. if i looked straight at the screen it was ok, but if i veered off to the side i would get a dark shadow on the edges so i assumed this was in wrong.

I wasn't home to see how the screens were laying. I'm thinking some stuff (CRT's) got hit by the falling screens.

Was wondering if you had any insight and recommendations on the syptoms i'm experiencing? I hope this is salvageable, as you can't just go to the local shop these days and pic up a nice RPTV...

Mr Bob

11-16-10, 03:44 PM

Keep playing with it, sounds like you are on the right track. Pretty sure the fresnel goes in just the way you say...

You sure the fresnel is closest to the mirror, and the lenticular is the farthest out layer, closest to the viewer?

You sure the lenticular has the ribs going vertically?

b

Mr Bob

11-16-10, 03:49 PM

Hi Bob,

51H84. It was calibrated about 4 years ago and the reflective screen removed and i have to say you just can't beat the beautiful filmlike picture of a good ole RPTV. And those painted blacks are too die for! It's a nice change of pace to watching movies on the Plasma.

Can I quote you on that? Feel free to post it on my Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV thread -

b

Splicer010

11-16-10, 06:43 PM

You sure the lenticular has the ribs going vertically?

My wife is watching a movie on the 51H83 but I looked anyway and the outside (viewer) facing ribs looks vertical to me.

dlenart25

11-16-10, 07:18 PM

Hi. I double checked the service manual and made sure i have the screens stacked correctly. Problem still remains. 4 corners of screen darker creating a look like i'm looking through a round camera lens. Also right side of screen bluer left side redder. Seems as if the red and blue guns may be out of whack or possibly i'm dealing with a damaged screen?

Splicer010

11-16-10, 07:38 PM

A kid doesn't knock thru the screens without damaging more. The TV probably got jostled and dust went flying. Convergence chips, a good cleaning and see where you are at.

dlenart25

11-16-10, 07:54 PM

Sorry. I lied. I took a closer look at the service manual and I had the two screens stacked incorrectly. On the service manual stacm diagram it actually shows the little part # stickers on the screens. I used the positioning of these stickers to help me align my stack. It was as easy as rotating the lenticular. Its as if the part # stickers were placed in certain location on the screen for a reason ;) Put it back on and all is well. It is amazing how the orientation of the individual screens in the stack can have such a big impact on the convergence, color uniformity and blurriness around the edges of the screen. No more dark corners, no more blurry convergence grids, and no more half blue/red screen. Lesson Learned: Have a service manual handy and follow the diagrams.,

Now i just need a good calibration

dlenart25

11-17-10, 01:03 PM

dlenart25

12-03-10, 12:47 PM

Can i use any brand Fresnal and Lenticular for my Tosh? I'm seeing a couple RPTV's that people are throwin out on craigslist. I was thinking i could use the screens, probably just have to cut them to size. The brand being thrown out is a Sony.

Update/Info.
Answered my own question. Found a broken 51" Hitachi that someone was throwing out on Craigslist. Transferred the stack from it to my Tosh, fit perfectly with no modifications and all is well. I have decided to leave the protective screen in the stack for now, until the kids get older..Also the Hitachi protective screen is not nearly as reflective as the Tosh's

Splicer010

12-03-10, 01:24 PM

Great to hear! Glad it all worked out for you. These are spectacular sets in my opinion. Was thinking that very though at 3AM today when I couldn't sleep and was watching some HD. :cool:

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 05:50 PM

Hey guys, I know there has been small discussions on whether there is a cure for the Tosh 65H84 with vertical lines across the entire screen (roughly .5"-1" between each line). These vertical lines are always on the screen (when it is powered on), on each input and is only getting worse. When I turn the TV set off and then back on it takes aprox. 20 minutes to to be able to decipher the picture again because the vertical lines are so heavy. After about 20 minutes the lines are clearly still visible but less intense. It is getting to the point where I can barely make out a picture all together. My set is probably 6-7 years old. I know there has been some talk about this problem. I have read (on this thread) about replacing the hyperboard, resistors, and/or capacitors. Does anyone know if there is a fix for this, other than calling a repairman, or tossing it in the trash?
Thank you in advance.

KG

Splicer010

02-15-11, 06:59 PM

Jail bars. There is a TSB from Toshiba out there somewhere (can't find the copy I printed out years ago) that all it takes is a jumper solder on one of the PCBs. I am sorry but I do not know which circuits need jumpered. I never did the fix on my H83 set because the issue is so slight, it wasn't worth the effort to me. However there is a TSB out here on the net somewhere. I would like to be of more help but alas, this is it. Good luck.

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 07:08 PM

hall

02-15-11, 07:12 PM

"Search this thread" for 'white' ... turns up a lot of results though. Went to the oldest page and found it :D :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4172866#post4172866

Splicer010

02-15-11, 07:29 PM

Good find!

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 09:14 PM

That TB only references models 46H83, 51H83, 57H83, 65H83, 46HX83, 51HX83, 57HX83, 65HX83, 51H93, 57H93, 65H93, 51HX93, 57HX93, and 65HX93. No --H--4 models. Any word on whether it applies to the newer models (or whether a different TB has been issued for them)?

Does anyone know if this question was answered?

I have the 65H84, do you think that the "tsb-whiteline.pdf" could also apply to the H84 models?

Splicer010

02-15-11, 09:25 PM

The more I think about it, yours is the worst case I have read about. I thought the H84 had the jail bar issue resolved. If so, then You have a more serious problem. Read this thread, Google your model and read everything you can find.

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 09:49 PM

Ok, well perhaps I can try to add the jumper, which would bring me to my first question, what is a jumper? is it just a simple wire that I need to solder from point A to Point B?

Another thing I don't know is, is there already a "jumper" there and i need to replace it or re-solder it?

Thanks

Splicer010

02-15-11, 10:22 PM

is it just a simple wire that I need to solder from point A to Point B?

Bingo! ;) Another thing I don't know is, is there already a "jumper" there Not that I am aware of.

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 10:39 PM

Is there any chance that even if I do it correctly it will kill my tv?

also, i read in a few places that the cause could be due to capacitors being burnt out, and all I need to do is replace the correct ones with the correct capacitors. Do you know anything about this?

All your help is greatly appreciated.

Splicer010

02-15-11, 11:29 PM

It very well could be bad caps. You have to look and test tho. And honestly, if the set is as hosed as you say it already is, chances of you making it worse, while possible, shouldn't really be too much of a concern. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Kaygeewhy

02-15-11, 11:36 PM

Splicer010

02-15-11, 11:47 PM

Any idea where I could find another step by step tutorial on replacing the correct caps with the specific caps it needs? Ask here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922

Kaygeewhy

02-16-11, 12:12 AM

Splicer010

02-16-11, 12:53 AM

Yup, yup...Clean the optics. Photos and directions are in that thread I linked to. You will be amazed at the difference. Small investment of time make a HUMONGOUS difference.

Mr Bob

02-16-11, 03:44 PM

Thanks again, though, i also have another problem with my set in which i think you may have an easy answer to. My brightness needs to be up all the way (100%) just to view a picture at a dim setting, is there an easy fix for this? or just a solution in general?

Your Screen trimpots may need to be realigned. That's what sets the threshold of the energies going to your guns.

DON'T TOUCH THEM UNLESS YOU ALREADY KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. It's not only a setting of thresholds, it's also a balancing act among the 3 colors that DIRECTLY affects your grayscale. If you alter an otherwise good grayscale by even BREATHING on those trimpots, you may wind up needing a full ISF calibration afterwards.

B

Kaygeewhy

02-16-11, 04:03 PM

Your Screen trimpots may need to be realigned. That's what sets the threshold of the energies going to your guns.

DON'T TOUCH THEM UNLESS YOU ALREADY KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. It's not only a setting of thresholds, it's also a balancing act among the 3 colors that DIRECTLY affects your grayscale. If you alter an otherwise good grayscale by even BREATHING on those trimpots, you may wind up needing a full ISF calibration afterwards.

B

Thanks, I cleaned off the lenses this morning and it worked slightly, but I feel my TV is too far under for anything worth fixing

hall

02-16-11, 06:23 PM

I got one of the local "calibration" guys (Chad) to give me a budget-version update/fix. Main issue was a distortion in one corner that he easily fixed and then did a minor tune-up. I had him wait to visit until he was nearby doing another job... I got lucky on the timing.

Maybe you could try the same ?

George Jetson

02-16-11, 10:48 PM

Well Put. I will try the Jumper tomorrow, and if that does not work i may try the caps.

Though looking around i have only seen one "tutorial" like guide on replacing the caps, but can not seem to find it again. Any idea where I could find another step by step tutorial on replacing the correct caps with the specific caps it needs?

If you're talking about the hyperboard caps, I did that repair a couple of years ago on my 50HDX82. Here's my post that kind of summarized it and includes the links that I found:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16650091#post16650091

The second link in that post got moved. Here's the updated one:

http://dshosu.com/?p=99

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Kaygeewhy

02-17-11, 12:50 AM

Hall: ill ask around for a local guy and see if he knows anything about my problem and Jetson, that post is fantastic, now I know I at least have a couple economical options. I'm going to look more into depth on that one and see what I can come up with. Thanks a lot guys. Really appreciated.

madcitygeek

03-03-11, 09:51 PM

My 51H84 has been working since Jan 2005 without issues. I bought an AppleTV 2 in September and have been using it (via HDMI) without issues.

As of this week, I can no longer play videos -- the Apple TV reports that my connection doesn't support HDCP.

I entered the SELF CHECK in the service menu and found:

HDMI
NO 40705122
ERR CODE:30

Anyone know what ERR CODE:30 means and if it is fixable without serious cost? Is there a reset function somewhere?

Since the AppleTV 2 doesn't have any other outputs, I'm sort of stuck -- I know I can purchase an HDMI to component adapter, but I'd like to keep using the HDMI.

Thanks!

Kevin

Splicer010

03-03-11, 10:02 PM

Get the adapter as that is very likely to be the most cost effective 'fix'. The PQ will be identical using component as the HDMI is.

madcitygeek

03-04-11, 05:41 PM

Would that be an HD Fury2?

Splicer010

03-04-11, 06:56 PM

It would be.

rrostie

03-06-11, 03:29 PM

As much as I love my Toshiba 57h83 rptv, I'm having to sell most of my stuff for financial reasons, plus I will probably be moving and it would be impractical to move the tv.

This tv was professionally calibrated by Gregg Loewen in 2004 or 2005. He did "the works" screen restack, convergence, grey scale, even Duvedrape. I am sure that you can't buy a new tv with the same picture quality. I love watching the darker movies the most.

I'm just curious if it's worth trying to sell in the AVS classifieds or otherwise, or if I am just better off finding someone to give it to that will appreciate it.

Splicer010

03-06-11, 03:46 PM

rrostie

03-06-11, 04:01 PM

Try to get something for it. It would be worth keeping if at all possible as you can move it oh so easily. Just split the cabinet, a primary feature of these great sets. Even as a bedroom TV, these things rock. That is where I moved my 51H83 to and the wife still watches it on a daily basis and I watch more often than not at night watching streaming Netflix and the likes.

Wow, I didn't know about the split cabinet feature. That would come in handy if I had to move it by SUV or something. If I were to ship it, I don't know if that would make much of a difference in the cost.

About the only thing I do with it any more is watch movies at night, like you, streaming from Netflix and stuff. It's just a little big for the bedroom though, lol.
Got a blu-ray player last year and it is even more amazing.

Splicer010

03-06-11, 04:24 PM

You only think it is too big.;) My wife thought similarly at first...AT FIRST! Now, I suggested (jokingly) that I could put a 42" on the wall in there and her reply was, and I quote:
Isn't 42" kind of...SMALL?Gotta love her!

P.S...Our bedroom is not exactly what one would consider 'large' in any sense of the word. And spliting the cabinet is how I got my 51H83 home in my Dodge Caravan from BB back in '04...

rrostie

03-06-11, 04:41 PM

The best thing I can say about the tv is it cured my "upgradeitus", especially after it was calibrated. There was never any reason to consider buying a new tv.

The sad thing is that it replaced a 36" tube toshiba tv that I bought just a few years before, for even more. I think I saw the invoice for that one recently and it was more than $2k OUCH. We still have that in the bedroom, almost never used. It's ok for watching DVDs of older tv shows. I borrowed all the old Doctor Who shows that the library had to watch on it.

Splicer010

03-06-11, 04:51 PM

We donated our Toshiba 32" that was in the BR (put the 51" in there because I found a Toshiba DLP 56" set for $50 on craigslist) to Saint Vincent De Paul along with the stand instead of attempting to sell it for $20. Nobody wants that type set anymore and we got a tax write-off of $250 for the donation. Everybody wins in my opinion.

ben001313

03-06-11, 08:27 PM

Ok here is my problem. My friend has a 42h83 and enjoy's it a lot. Now about a week ago she moved and at the same time moved the TV. She now has a that looks like your watching a 3d movie without glasses. Now through the first 40 pages or so of this forum it mostly talks about 56 pt convergence. She has not done this yet and more then likely I will have to do it for her so my question is could it be a convergence problem or is it that people that moved her were not very careful with the TV and wrecked it. I've been looking at this thread for 3 days on and off and it doesn't seem to answer this question. I will take all the help you guy's can give me. I also hope she has a service manual....

Mr Bob

03-06-11, 10:15 PM

The move may have jarred loose a solder joint that was just ready to go cold and let go. At least your set still works. Sometimes when an IC goes bad it shorts out, taking the operation of the set with it.

Could be resoldering the conv ICs will do it, may have to replace them.

b

ben001313

03-07-11, 05:30 PM

Ok i can understand that. My question now is I hit the touch focus button and all the lines are as straight as can be so that has me a little baffled. Do you think I should try a full convergence. Also my friend doesn't have a service manual do you know where I could get one?

Splicer010

03-07-11, 09:18 PM

Good that the lines are straight. But how far off are the blue AND the red lines from the MAIN green line? THAT is what is important at this step.

Service manual online somewhere. Google it. May have to pay for a copy if you can't find one for free.

Mr Bob

03-07-11, 11:48 PM

If you need to pay for it, www.servicemanuals.net is a great resource. For under $20, if they have it ready to go they will download it to you instantly. If not it may take an add'l 24 hours.

b

95MustangGT

03-29-11, 05:14 PM

anybody could post up their s menu settings for the 65h84? or video record and go through them atleast? really need this!

Splicer010

03-29-11, 05:38 PM

Each set has unique settings and what works on one TV will not work on another. What happened?

95MustangGT

03-29-11, 05:53 PM

i know, you guys have told me that already but does it really matter?

This Happend.....
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5003/imag0072p.jpg

Splicer010

03-29-11, 06:08 PM

What am I looking at? Just looks out of focus at the top, soft everywhere else.

95MustangGT

03-29-11, 06:42 PM

round edges, bottom is not straight. how to fix it?

95MustangGT

03-29-11, 07:01 PM

also picture is not sharp

Splicer010

03-29-11, 07:03 PM

You have to reset the geometry it looks like to me. Well, not so much 'reset' but rather re-do the geometry. This question (if Mr. Bob doesn't stop here first) is to go post this over in the 'Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV' thread, as I have never needed to mess with my sets geometry.

95MustangGT

04-04-11, 06:17 PM

nobody seems to be able to help...

Splicer010

04-04-11, 06:57 PM

Did you ask in the other forum? Have you tried to clean the lenses? What have you done?

Mr Bob

04-04-11, 10:32 PM

Geometry has to be corrected within the service menu, and each color is set up independent of all the others. You start by getting green correct, and then converge red to the green and blue to either red or green.

b

95MustangGT

04-05-11, 06:35 PM

which characters in the smenu do i chnage?

Mr Bob

04-05-11, 07:19 PM

No simple answer to that. There's a whole learning curve you'll have to master to be able to pull this off, a dedicated Toshiba one. Feel free to learn it on your own or you can contact me directly, off board. No pm's please, stick with email or phone -

b

95MustangGT

04-07-11, 11:43 PM

if you wouldnt mind sending me your email address per pm i would contact you. I really need this as i want this tv to work perfectly. I have no problem spending some time to figure it out!

Splicer010

04-08-11, 08:15 AM

Contact Bob thru his link at the bottom of every post he makes.

http://www.imageperfection.com/

95MustangGT

04-14-11, 12:03 AM

Mr Bob

04-14-11, 02:00 PM

if you wouldnt mind sending me your email address per pm i would contact you. I really need this as i want this tv to work perfectly. I have no problem spending some time to figure it out!

My email is spelled out in my sig. My pm box has been near overflow for years now, and takes precious time every time I have to sift thru and cull it to make room for new pm's. Just pm'd you my email, JIC, then deleted that sent message -

b

Splicer010

04-14-11, 02:08 PM

hey guys, so i ran across a forum where somebody posted the s menu settings from a 51h85 and my settings where almost identical. I changed everything the way that tv had and my picture has gotten much better. Now im asking you to help me out here, if somebody with a 65H84 could please go to their tv and Copy down all the settings in the service menu, it will take maybe 15 min of your time. I then would put those in my TV and and adjust the rest from there, please! If 15 min of your time is to much to ask for then i really dont know what else to do! Common it will only take a little of your time and would help me out bigtime! PLEASE!

Not trying to sound like a jerk-off or anything, but if you haven't noticed, this thread has been abandoned for quite some time. Only Bob and I really reply to it any longer. Your chances of a 65" user replying are slim to none. You really need to speak to Bob as he is the only CRT RPTV guru left just about. 65" owners have had a difficult time getting replies here, at least since I have been a part of this thread. CRT RPTV (for the most part) is dead. Plain and simple. There are those of us that still enjoy the tech, but even I have moved on to DLP. My own CRT 51H83 is neglected but still very watchable. I plan on going thru it some time this summer to get it back to its former glory, or have Bob stop over when he is in Texas or something. I'm only 1500+ miles away so just a little side tracking on his part is all it will require. ;)