http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/2052/p1060547.jpg

Do a 56 point convergence. The picture will sharpen right up. I admire your tenacity on this project. Good job!

Oh and Bob

these are the crosses i was talking about on the phone

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/158/p1060548.jpg

Yup, that's them!

Great chatting with you on the phone just now, to get this done. We could have so much fun with your set if you were not selling it tomorrow!

:cool:

b

I think that me and SSJ would go along with that.:D

I can only think of one owner of these sets that got a faulty set(other than the white line issue or jailbars issue). I can't remember the poster's name but shortly after receiving his set one of the guns quit. Other than the normal little quibles with any set, there haven't really been any failures on these sets that i'm aware of.

SSJ, did you confirm on your H84 set that medium looked most nuetral grey?

And to all other owners of H84 series sets, do any of you ever see the Jail bar issue? It's different than the White line. They are fairly evenly spaced grey(very light) bars that run full height of the set about 2" s apart and about 1" or so wide. They aren't really bothersome as they rarely show up with content and seems like they are only there on HD material. Alot of people who had the H83 sets complained of them along with the white line.
I got lucky and don't have the white line, But i do have the very faint Jail bars. Just curious as to whether or not Toshiba got'em fixed seeing as how they seem to have ignored the white line fix in the H84's.:cool:


Pitt Dog - Did you ever get a satisfactory answer to your question? I have a 51H84 with the jail bars like you're describing and haven't found an answer despite lots of people having that issue.

EVERY H83/84 model has the jail bars. All it takes to fix is a jumper wire needs to be soldered between two points. Toshiba put out a TSB about it. Alas, I no longer can find it but I believe (IIRC) it IS here in this thread some where. Use the 'Search This Thread' option (top right corner) and see if you can't dig it up.

That said, I never did the fix on my 51H83. Was never a serious enough issue to me to mess with. Set still plays beautifully but does from time to time exhibit the bars.

Thanks Splicer.
I found the TSB. I'll see if it works.
Thanks for the info.

Still rocking my 57H83 after all these years. Only problem I have ever had was the display on the screen one time looked like someone grabbed it from inside and pulled it such that the outer boundaries were concaved in. I turned it off and back on and it went away. Any idea what might have caused that?

If it only happened once, probably a power glitch/spike/brownout. Wouldn't really sweat it but I'm not a tech. You can ask over in the Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV thread.:)

I agree, that might have been caused by a brownout condition. Classically that would make the image shrink too. Did it shrink?

b

Just browsing this thread. I'm still using my 46HX83 as my primary tv. I figure, if it ain't broke, why fix it? Still looks great to this day, almost as good as when I brought it home in 2004.

Although, I have been thinking a lot lately of selling it to someone who might want to use it as their secondary or game room tv. I'd love to have the space in my living room back that it's taking up, and plasmas are pretty cheap.

Place an ad for it on Craigslist, or not? Decisions, decisions......

If your optics have not been cleaned recently you don't know what you're missing! See my website for details -

b

hello eveybody.i just received a 46h84 for free from my cousin who upgraded to an lcd.it seems to be suffering from the bad caps issue but i dont know which to replace.this model has the hyper module integrated into the signal board instead of 2 seperate boards and has over 60 caps on it.seems to have a really nice picture behind all those wavy squiggly lines and would like to get it going.any help is much appreciated.

Wish I could have my 46H tuned up, I love that TV. I live way out in the boonies though.

The blacks all have a dark rose tint to them in my set.

I travel anywhere there are CRT RPTVs to calibrate. May cost you a bit, but are you getting your money's worth anyway, without it working at its best? Whatever you spent for these sets, owners, you are not getting your $'s worth if it's not performing like it could.

Certain things can be phone-coached. If you really are far out there and can't spirit me away to your abode, get on the phone with me and I'll shepherd you properly in doing some of these things yourself, with expert care and guidance.

b

(i originally posted this on "dont dump your rptv thread")


i have a problem with my toshiba rptv 43jh9um(dont look it up on google its nowhere on the internet its east asia specific)

well anyways the problem is, it has been with me for 5 years without any problem but recently this thing happened that when i switch it on it does produce that chinnnng sound when you open a TV and then after i think 2 secs it goes dooop just like when you stand-by your tv but the red light on the tv keeps on.... other thing is when it sometimes does get on after a while i get black flickers on the screen they grow and suddenly the tv goes on standby and does not open again...!!!! i called the people from service center and literally they were idiots....first they dint know how to open the t.v then they fried up the fuse ! then they said i have a problem in my main-board and the fee is huge 60% of the original cost..!!! i ask them to provide me the service manual but they wont...some policy they said..!!!

so i want to know what can be done , should i dump it or can something useful be made out of it..!!!

Any kind of help will be greatly appreciated

Thanks,
Talha

I tried browsing this thread and the Rear Projection section, but couldn't find anything about my problem after an hour or so.

My Toshiba 51H83 has stopped responding to the remote control's commands. The remote works on other devices, just not the TV. I've tried different remotes as well, with no luck. In the beginning it was just an occasional problem, but now it seems permanant and hasn't worked in a month or more. The controls on the TV itself work fine, and otherwise the set is functioning normally.

So the questions: Is this the remote sensor in the TV itself or possibly just a loose solder on the board somewhere? Is this a fairly easy fix, or would this be considered complicated? Would it be worth it to buy a new sensor and replace without any further tests to determine the exact problem? The set is about 8 years old I believe, and I don't recall this issue until a few weeks ago.

I have minimal experience beyond service menu convergence and DVE calibration. I've never opened it up or done any lense cleaning or anything internal. I would like to do this myself if it's possible and not too expensive. I'm not going to spend lots of money on it!

Thanks for any advise or input.

Have read other posts about the remote sensor not working. Have you moved the set to a new location lately or added lighting to the room? I don't recall but I believe the sensor (if bad) can be replaced easily enough. May have to just be cleaned. Regardless, the lenses NEED to be cleaned. Easy enough to do by you and all sorts of directions here in this thread as well as the Don't Dump Your CRT thread.

No new lighting or location issues. It had worked fine in its current location for 2-3 months, then just started to not respond, then stopped all together. it is a bright room in the day, but the same issues persist at night with no external light at all.

My Toshiba 51H83 has stopped responding to the remote control's commands. The remote works on other devices, just not the TV. I've tried different remotes as well, with no luck. In the beginning it was just an occasional problem, but now it seems permanant and hasn't worked in a month or more. The controls on the TV itself work fine, and otherwise the set is functioning normally.

So the questions: Is this the remote sensor in the TV itself or possibly just a loose solder on the board somewhere? Is this a fairly easy fix, or would this be considered complicated? Would it be worth it to buy a new sensor and replace without any further tests to determine the exact problem? The set is about 8 years old I believe, and I don't recall this issue until a few weeks ago.


Its been a while for me, but if my memory hasn't failed, the sensor is behind the video screen. You might be able to get to the back of the sensor, by removing the back of the cabinet. If you need to get to the front of the sensor, like to clean it off, you'll have the much more difficult task of taking the screen apart.

From my experience, the most likely failure is at a connection, either a solder joint or a plug.

can anyone help me with my toshiba 46h84? i have bars going vertical, used to go away when warmed up, but not anymore! stays all the time!

If it looks like jail bars and mainly only visible on bright (white) or dark blue scenes, it is typical. There is a fix I posted in this thread somewhere, search for jailbars in the top right corner of this threads search this thread.

You should do a thorough cleaning of the lenses though and mirror and then do a convergence. That will help tremendously.

First time posting here. The picture on my 51H84 recently started to scroll horizontally across the screen for a couple of minutes and then returned to normal. It has done this five or six times in the last few days. Any ideas where I can find a solution? I've tried to search this thread but I haven't found anything yet.

Dave

First time posting here. The picture on my 51H84 recently started to scroll horizontally across the screen for a couple of minutes and then returned to normal. It has done this five or six times in the last few days. Any ideas where I can find a solution? I've tried to search this thread but I haven't found anything yet.

Dave

These sets are a PITA to repair. Prepare to sell it/give it away. I love my H83 but when it starts to go, it is gone, I assure you. To many better/less expensive sets on Craigslist to be messing with these dinosaurs too much.

If you want the BEST there is, go DLP. Specifically Toshiba or Mitsubishi 1080p sets. There is a reason CRT never survived and it has NOTHING to do withthe size...it is all the constant damn maintenance/adjutments that are required to keep the top notch PQ PLUS the power requirements for the large screen models.

This was just posted on another thread, thought I'd share it with you here -


Holy Cow Dave Harper!!! You said ISF is in Florida, so I decided to see where they're located. They're about 5-10 minutes from my house!! Didn't even know it, too darned funny.

I have an elderly Pioneer SD-532HD5 like this one.

http://www4.shopping.com/xFS?KW=pioneer+sd-532hd5&FN=TV+and+Video&FD=85747

I might just need to have this thing calibrated some day. It works OK and has been moved across the country twice, in storage for a couple years, never been touched except when I used the Avia disk set it up initially and when I moved here in Boca Raton 3 years ago.

Just noticed this post in another thread, from way back in '05.

Just so you know, those "elderly" CRT RPTVs are not old, they have a 20 year service life - or more, I've seen it, recently heard about a 29 year old Panny CRT 50" that's still cranking away just fine - and at today's stage are only halfway thru it. I know of an "old" curved screen bounce-off-the-screen Sears CRT whose guns fire at the hinged mirror that you pull out and let fall into place to start it up, that's still cranking away just fine too. We've been looking for someone to take it home and keep it going, or hopefully get it to some sort of video museum, tho I have never actually heard of one...

Well treated by their owners re. usage, light levels and avoidance of screenburn, they are capable of WAY better than new performance, even at 11 years old.

I am being flown all over the country cleaning and calibrating these "elderly" beasts, which are capable of incredible HD, head and shoulders better than a lot of the "affordable" fixed pixel offerings out there in today's marketplace. And better looking in some ways than all fixed pixel offerings.

The main thing that not everybody knows about them is that their optics need to be cleaned yearly, and on some brands - like the Pioneers, be they Elite or non-Elite - the "deeper optics" need it every few years as well. That's because of the air gap between the lens barrels and the CRT coolant covers, where 6 additional surfaces get invaded by dust, soot, smoke and all manner of other airborn contaminants, and thus compromised because of the high voltage turning them into powerful, continuous dust magnets every moment they are powered on. There's 28 optical surfaces in there that need to stay crystal clear, 10 of which get heavily compromised because of the HV. When all 28 surfaces are clean and polished and you have a crystal clear light path again, the results are truly astonishing. Like getting a brand new TV for a simple hour's work.

Just doing this one thing gives your "elderly" set a brand new looking picture - in my area my calibrations are called "The Sparkle Process" - and calibration after that is just incredible icing on the cake.

I started the "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!" thread here on AVS more than 5 years ago, and it is still going strong, with over 300 complete pages so far and over 9000 posts. If you have a CRT RPTV at all, HD or non-HD, I invite you to go over there and check it out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=327

If you have a CRT RPTV or know someone who does and want info about how to do your optics cleaning with no damage - those soft plastic surfaces in there are incredibly delicate, vulnerable and easily scratched, and any damage to them is permanent - contact me directly, by email or phone. No pm's please!

Thx -

Mr Bob

Hi all,

Haven't posted in this group for a longgggg time. Still have my 57" set and it's been great since day one. I had a general question about RPTVs and their response time. I've been using this set for gaming with PS3 and I was wondering if they have a specific response time like LCDs or other TVs. Would anyone know the response time for the H84?

Thanks

Would anyone know the response time for the H84?

0ms...Not a typo...ZERO ms...CRT is the best you can get for gaming.

Hi all,

Haven't posted in this group for a longgggg time. Still have my 57" set and it's been great since day one. I had a general question about RPTVs and their response time. I've been using this set for gaming with PS3 and I was wondering if they have a specific response time like LCDs or other TVs. Would anyone know the response time for the H84?

Thanks

Just so you know, if you have not had your optics and deeper optics cleaned, you're missing the boat on having a brand new-looking set at all times. 30KV really does a number on the static cling, drawing ANY airborne particulates right onto your optics, literally sucks them out of the air and embeds them onto your optical surfaces. Including the deeper optics if you have an air gap between the lens barrels and the CRT coolant covers. See my website for more details.

b

Hello guys, I have an 57HX83 that I purchased new years ago and I would like to correct 1 problem that is bothering me with the TV. The picture is off center to the right by an inch or so. I read that to correct this problem I would need an aftermarket remote to allow me access to the ADDR menu so I may adjust HPOS at 0DC0. Where can I acquire a remote that will give me access to the ADDR?

Are you sure there is no H POS register in your service menu, which can be accessed via the official Tosh remote that came with your set?

b

All is available via the service menu, no special remote is required. WRITE DOWN EVERY VALUE FIRST, BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!!!

Yes I am positive. HPOS is not available in the SM on the H83 or HX83, it is the only year Toshiba did this. VPOS was switched to VPS1 and VPS2 in the SM but HPOS is only available thru the ADDR menu. I have written down all settings in the SM years ago.

Then you are bumming because there is no aftermarket remote that gets anything that isn't in the service menu. The ADDR was not a part of the H83 series as I recall. And I have been completely thru my H83. Not sure where you got the info that you need to go into the ADDR on a H83 model. The older sets yes, but not the H83.

You could reposition the images using the concentric magnetic rings around the neck of the CRT instead -

b

Then you are bumming because there is no aftermarket remote that gets anything that isn't in the service menu. The ADDR was not a part of the H83 series as I recall. And I have been completely thru my H83. Not sure where you got the info that you need to go into the ADDR on a H83 model. The older sets yes, but not the H83.

yes there are. the older one for all brand remotes, such as the URC-8910, that have a set or setup button on them allow the ADDR menu to display in the H83 and HX83 series when you hit setup, 0, 1, 4. the reason i posted was i wanted to know if there was a newer remote that would do this because the all for one remotes that do this are all several years old by now and i wasn't sure if i would be able to locate one. i also thought you or bob may have another way of adjusting the entire picture to the left an inch or two. read from here down and pay special attention to cougar97201 posts for more info on ADDR on the H83.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8005701#post8005701

You could reposition the images using the concentric magnetic rings around the neck of the CRT instead -

b

as in reposition the entire image to the left an inch or two?

Yes. All 3 images, of course.

b

My bad...Memory going I guess, tho I am still not 100% convinced as I did research all forums and read that the jist was there was no ADDR, however, IF the following is true, may be the reason for me remembering incorrectly:
designer mode for the 83 series.
that was a mode in older models and, although similar in concept to ADDR mode,
different in implementation.

yes there are. the older one for all brand remotes, such as the URC-8910, that have a set or setup button on them allow the ADDR menu to display in the H83 and HX83 series when you hit setup, 0, 1, 4. the reason i posted was i wanted to know if there was a newer remote that would do this because the all for one remotes that do this are all several years old by now and i wasn't sure if i would be able to locate one. i also thought you or bob may have another way of adjusting the entire picture to the left an inch or two. read from here down and pay special attention to cougar97201 posts for more info on ADDR on the H83.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8005701#post8005701

I recently sold my 51H84 (the horror!) but the remote may still be floating around. I'm in Reno so it shouldn't cost too much to ship if you are still looking for one.

I recently sold my 51H84 (the horror!) but the remote may still be floating around. I'm in Reno so it shouldn't cost too much to ship if you are still looking for one.

thank you very much Brien, i bought 2 all for one remotes about a week ago a 6131 and an 8820. they will be delivered this week approx Wed. so i am all set. i really do appreciate the offer, that was very nice of you.

what did u replace your 51h83 with? i am holding on to my set for dear life, i do not like any technology that is currently on the market. we own a large plasma tv but imo it sucks picture wise. if i had to replace my 57hx83 i would probably buy a 73" mitsu dlp but honestly i would be much happier keeping what i already have.

Received my All For One 6131N remote today, entered the ADDR menu and moved the screen image a couple clicks to the left, then brought the horizontal overscan down a couple clicks, reset the geometry and all is well, the image is perfect! Overall overscan is between 4 and 5 percent on all 4 sides, image is perfectly centered and I am happy as a pig in you know what. lol

For the record the global parameter for HPOS on the H83 series is 0DC0H and you enter ADDR by hitting Setup, 0, 1, 4 on a One For All universal remote such as the 6131 or 8820.

5-6% is typical of factory overscan, which all our CRT RPTVs were set up for at the factory.

If you want to do overscan redux, it's a lot of work but the results speak for themselves.

The best sizing for our sets is for winding up between 4-4.5% all around, or between 2-3% if you can actually bring that off. That usually requires the shimming op. My Mit runs between 2.5-3% all around, with the height being just slightly less than the width using the Overscan pattern from the Digital Video Essentials BD, resulting in a perfectly round circle (H=W exactly, measured by yardstick) based on the logos for ABC and CBS, plus a random perfect image of a full moon, all of which I had captured on my Dish DVR.

If you want to go for it and really maximize your set's potential, feel free to contact me directly, no pm's please.

b

HELP! :eek:
Just bought a Panasonic Blu-Ray DVD player DMP-BDT210P.
Connected HDMI cable to my Toshiba 65NH84. Turned TV on, followed by DVD player (per directions). All I see are intermittant flashes on the screen. Tried every "Pic Size" available - always a failed result (white flashes)
Plugged HDMI cable into $100 19" flat screen - no problems.
Blu Ray player does work with the significantly lower resolution RCA cable.
Has anyone else experienced this? :confused:

Bluray players often default at 1080p, esp. when powered down and powered up again. Unless you change that, it won't just automatically go into 1080i or 480i/p. The only way it will not do that will be if there is a 2 way conversation between it and your display via the HDMI and the display tells the BDP to set itself to the scanrate designated by the display.

b

HELP! :eek:
Just bought a Panasonic Blu-Ray DVD player DMP-BDT210P.
Connected HDMI cable to my Toshiba 65NH84. Turned TV on, followed by DVD player (per directions). All I see are intermittant flashes on the screen. Tried every "Pic Size" available - always a failed result (white flashes)
Plugged HDMI cable into $100 19" flat screen - no problems.
Blu Ray player does work with the significantly lower resolution RCA cable.
Has anyone else experienced this? :confused:

use the rca cables to set the output of the bluray player to 1080i, then connect with hdmi. also reading the instructions of the bluray player would not be a bad idea either.

I might add that 1080i-only HDMIs may not be 2 way circuits, both talking and listening. The new 1080p fixed pixel gear is 2 way and as such allows the display to tell the player it's a 1080p display. I would not have that option on mine even if I were using my HDMI circuit - which I don't - because I use only 1080i component, which has no such 2 way communication between the display and the BDP.

b

This beast of a set is still working well at a friend's house, and I just completed a greyscale calibration.

Can the color decoder be adjusted via R-Y and G-Y parameters when using the HDMI input?

I have adjusted it before to cure red push in the older TWxH80 series, but read a post early on in this thread stating that the above parameters had no effect.

I have colorimeter and all the calibration discs, just need some direction on which SM parameters to adjust for which color bars.

Many years ago I saw the correct registers in the earlier series, it was a completely separate secondary service menu that took special orders/codes to get into. Those registers allowed for red push eradication, just like on the Mits models of that same model year. Plus a dozen other things, like registers that could make your picture a lot crisper than out of the box.

That was way back when the Tosh model numbers started with TW. The TW series was what Runco used to build its flagship CRT RPTV of that time period, with a beautiful Runco face on it and advanced internal Runco electronic circuits. And of course the typical huge Runco price tag!

After that the TW disappeared, along with that delicious internal menu, and from then on you needed to sign Toshiba's non-disclosure agreement to be privy to what was left, which was nowhere near as elaborate.

But that was long before HDMI was even a gleam in the eye of its creator, many years before.

If you find that the color decoders can be altered to get rid of red push in the more recent models at all, I am all ears!

B

Ahh the good ole days :)

Anyway I had another look at the set and it's good enough considering it's doomed to a family environment for the rest of its life. With greyscale done and color/tint set with the blue filter color bars it looks very nice. Subjectively I would say there is a slight red push on flesh tones but nothing outrageous.

I am also impressed with how bright the image is for a set this big. There is a bit of a background glow so I think it could benefit from some internal blackening and a lens cleaning more than anything!

Always prioritize the flesh tones. Let everything else fall where it may. Get the flesh tones correct for most video content and on a Mit you'll have blue-green diminish unless you correct for the colorations some other way, because Mit has strong red push. But on a Tosh the red push is not nearly as strong. So getting the flesh tones correct by eye should give your pic an awesome color paradigm.

Just don't trust the blue filter/isolation test, because if there is any red push, it will get your blues correct but will overaccentuate the reds in your flesh tones, compromising your suspension of disbelief and blowing your hypnotic trance. Better to do the flesh tones by eye on most channels/video material, and trim where needed on that occasional video material that is not actually correct.


On a Tosh, chances are that not just lens cleaning will need it, in your optics cleaning op. Other surfaces will most likely be involved.

But don't take any chances on cleaning it the wrong way, which could cause permanent damage. Call me and get it from the horse's mouth, from someone who's been there countless times by now, in my calibrations all over the country.

Those 6 additional surfaces in the deeper optics category comprise more than half of the 10 surfaces that may need cleaning of the 28 total, depending on the brand. Not doing those additional 6 surfaces if they need it will keep your set limited on the inkiness of its blacks, which CRT still does the best at - second only to OLED, which is not really here yet. Yes the blackening of the optical cavity makes a difference and should be done as well, but not nearly as much difference as the optics cleaning makes.


Here's the results of having all 28 surfaces in your light path crystal clear again, on a Pioneer set where all 10 in question needed cleaning. Mit seals their lenses to their CRT coolant covers properly whereas other brands do not, Tosh most likely being one, depending on the model. Some did and some did not. This means that on brands other than Mit, 10 of the 28 surfaces need cleaning on other brands, to Mit's 4.

The importance of this step cannot be overly stressed. It is ESSENTIAL! It usually takes about an hour if you're a quick study, less if you are long experienced like I am. If you are totally inexperienced at it, it could take a little longer. But by the end of the day you'll have your new-looking set back again, like the day you bought it.


Before:

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/9131/opticsbeforeaq02.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/opticsbeforeaq02.jpg/)


After (same day and from then on!):


http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1382/opticsafterzt4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/opticsafterzt4.jpg/)


b

While that frame before/after looks good, I want to see the same frame on a DLP or Plasma set (but preferably on DLP ;)). What movie/time stamp is this scene from? I don't think I have it on disc.

The Fifth Element, just after Lilu has been created in the lab and has escaped. Just before she goes out on the ledge and proceeds to dive off the building and land in Bruce's cab. Early on in the movie.


Optics cleaning won't apply to plasma or any flat panel. It only applies to projection tech, which would include DLP, LCOS, projection LCD and CRT. And light valves.

But oh does it apply!

On my www.youtube.com channel, one of my owners on the other side of the country does a testimonial on how good his Sony LCD projection set now looks, after I did my magic on it while I was in his area, Wakefield MA.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hc9OD-CsDOQ

b

Dammit Bob! When are you coming to the Cinti area? ;)

Bones! Calm down. Easy answer there.

Soon as you send me a plane ticket!

b