The prior OM listed SVM as an option under the Picture Preferences menu. I can tell you that my TV's on-screen menu does not include an SVM option, nor does the new OM contain any mention of SVM.
Weird.

Has anybody found a service manual for the H84 series? I'm really interested in gaining some insight into the VSM setting in the service menu. I've adjusted mine to give me good results with the sharpness test on Avia, but what I very interesting is the fact that the value changes depending on what input is selected on the TV and even what mode the TV is in (standard/sports/movie/pref).

The setting seems to cycle every 4th "number" but it seems to gradually change at the same time (did that make sense?). I'm curious if the settings on this are standardized across sets or if it's like most of the service menu settings and varies TV to TV. For me, the cycle seems to "reset" at 80H. Anybody else have any experience with this?

I haven't even gotten into the VSM1,2, and 3 settings yet.

Every input is set at a standard out of the box. You'll have to change the sharpness and save the settings for every input. Once you do that, then the sharpness should be at what you want it for each input. If you want the same number across the board, you still have to change and save each input. Now the numbers of course will change if you change the settings from preference to movie, sport, etc... As long as you keep it on preference for each one, it will stay at what you set it as.

I've watched a couple of DVDs lately on my TV, and man, it's great. My PS2 still doesn't look great, but I'll chalk that up to composite cables. But DVDs and HD are fabulous. I don't regret this purchase at all (only 2 weeks old, so knock on wood!).

I have the H83 series - does anyone have a problem using the Toshiba remote with the Comcast HD box (Motorola 5100/6200/6208)?

Re the remote and a Motorola STB - does your Toshiba remote work? When I saw that Motorola wasn't listed in the OM, I lost interest. What code did you use? Seems odd that Motorola is not on the list of cable boxes, given how much of the market they must have.

Related question - has anyone gotten the Toshiba remote to operate a ReplayTV? My Motorola cable box remote will operate the Replay; maybe I'll try that code.

Are you having an actual problem using the remote with the Motorola, or are you not able to find a code for it? As stated earlier, it's not in the OM. Neither is a code for my Harmon Kardon DVD player. This blows. Now I have 8 million remotes, and I gotta spend as much on a universal remote as a good DVD player!!

Originally posted by CrimeDawg
Someone asked what I had as far as AVIA results. This is what I have the set at:

Contrast: 44
Brightness: 31
Color: 37
Tint: R5
Sharpness: 46

That's how they shook out. Baseball on HD looked pretty damn good at these settings. They were done in without any light coming into the room at all. I imagine the low brightness and lower contrast levels will help out the life of my TV. Anyone have similar AVIA/DVE numbers?

not sure what AVIA is, but whats funny, those are nearly identical to
the settings I did manually:

contrast: 45
brightness: 35
color: 40
tint: - this i didn't touch
sharpness 47

what I did find odd, is this tv showed up with the default mode contrast
set at "100", lol.

anyhow, I'm quite amazed how good the picture is on this 84h57..
finally got my direcTV setup today have a week and half fiasco.

The HD stuff looks amazing. Better than my 60" LCD RPTV.

SD looks better too... however, I've got to run it in stretch mode, so
I don't burn in a pair of stripes.. "full" mode looks pretty good w/o
much distortion (no giant wide heads, etc) to me for the SD.

For less than $1680 bucks and more than $1670 (I think that gets
around the price quoting rules? lol) - delivered, it's hard to beat.

-d

AVIA is a calibration disc, similar to Digital Video Essentials. I'm glad to see that someone's numbers are close to mine. It wasn't an easy process using AVIA, some things are just too close to tell!

As for SD, I've been watching it all in Full mode as well. It looks fine to me, doesn't appear distorted or anything. I have no complaints about HD. I think the real problem is, once you watch something in HD, you expect all your channels to look like that. But I think this TV does a good job with SD, I haven't come across anything that is unwatchable.

The Toshiba remote does not seem to control the Motorola 5100/6200/6208 at all. The Jerrold of General Instruments codes worked on the older Toshiba remotes with the Motorola box. It is hard to imagine they would discontinue support for a major HD cable box, but I went through all the codes (for all manufacturers) and could not get it to work. Toshiba is sending me a new remote to see if it a problem with the remote but I was hoping someone could get the remote to work and supply the code to punch in.

When doing the 56 pt convergence adjustments, do you guys have to stand REAL close to the set to see the red/blue adjustments?

THanks.

I've never done the 56-pt, but I'd guess you should be in your normal seating location.

When i do mine i usually sit about 5 ft. from it so i can get it as good as possible. It's also a good idea to do it in stages , if you are going to be doing it for a while. The grid is very bright and could be a possible burn-in issue if done for long periods of time. Plus, that same bright grid will almost have you seeing double if you don't give yourself a break every 15 to 20 mins.

Hello all, I'm thinking about getting one of these Toshes, is there anything new coming out that I should wait on?

Are you guys getting this kinda of picture?

gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=10364

If so I'm sold on the Toshiba, I know I've been looking at them at quite a number of places in person but this guys pic is outstanding. I REALLY would like to see what the xbox looks like on this thing, especially ESPN NFL 2K5 or ESPN NBA 2K5 Xbox.

ok one last thing people... I've been lurking silently through these boards for a little while now and I believe that the Toshes (as you guys put it lol) is the way to go for me. After seeing them at sears and a few other spots I have to admit they seem to be the best bang for the buck. My problem is that the space I'm working with is limited. Here is what I'm in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/totalownership/Untitled-1copy.gif

The red asterisks is where my current setup is at which is pretty much everything. Adcom GFA 555, 27 inch sony, DVD player etc. etc. However I'm thinking of putting the HDTV set I plan to purchase in that spot which means I'd have to move my audio/video sources to the wall by the door since that's a blank space. I usually put my Christmas tree there but I guess I wont be able to due to the size of the set I'll get. This all leads me to the all important question. For the size of the room what is the biggest size recommended for purchase? I would assume a 60"+ would give me a grainy picture, but am I wrong? I would like to get that $2000 deal from Costco but it may be too much. Or should I move the couch to divide the living room and put the TV on the blank wall near the door? What do you guys think is the best move? Keep in mind I have a dining room set and a baby grand near the window so that space is dead. The picture is off, this is what was online from the rental agent so it really give a bad aspect of how the room is laid out dimension-wise. For instance from the window to the bottom part of the red asterisk area is really 8 feet 5 inches and that little wall that separates the kitchen and the living room, next to the window, is just shy of 6 feet. By the way that "little wall" is really a breakfast nook so there's a counter and the wall is cut out so I can't put anything there anyway, that's where the piano sits, underneath the "counter". Here's a pic of what I mean. My piano is underneath that "counter" to the left, obviously, (would be kinda dumb having a piano in the kitchen)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/totalownership/maple_aparpic3.gif

Keeping all that in mind what would you guys recommend?

Do you all get a low humming sound coming from the set, even when it is off?

totalownership,

As to what kind of picture you should expect, my 57HX93 produces a picture well beyond the one in the link shown above. If you're using that as a benchmark, then you'll be very happy once you get your set and see what it can really do.

Tim

I will post a few pics of X-box games for you later on today. Check back tomorrow to see the awesomeness.

OvalNut if that's true WOW. That picture amazed the hell outta me. Made my jaw drop. It's funny but even though the picture is small the "hugeness" was obvious. Don't know if that made any sense, but I'm saying the wow-ness was portrayed well in that.

Biglyle I am "DYING" to see some xbox pics. Please tell me you have some ESPN games. Even the ESPN 2K4's (last years) I hear were outstanding in this HDTV format. I really want to see this.
I've been researching some more and although I'm pretty much sold on the Toshibas another line has entered my sights and that would be the Optoma RD50. I've been hearing some REAL good stuff about this set. The only "gotcha" I've heard is about some type of rainbow effect which I have to investigate further. What do you guys know about this set.

PS: I still need some advice or a guide on what's the best size for the apartment.

Originally posted by totalownership
PS: I still need some advice or a guide on what's the best size for the apartment. Here's the nicest calculator to use:

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

Leave the first field (# 1) blank since you don't know.

I just tried this for my own setup again and I swear it's telling me different numbers. For my 57" widescreen, it told me the ideal distance was in the 11-13' range. I also recall quite a difference in the viewing distance between a 4:3 and a16:9 set. It's not giving much of a difference now...

Thanks hall, nice tool, I just tried it. I wonder about it's numbers. I shouldn't say that what I mean to say is I guess I really gotta wonder about the THX guys, they must want people to break their necks while watching a movie. The maximum THX seems good but the recommended thx seem absurd to me

I guess the only way to verify these numbers would be for you guys who believe you are at the appropriate distance to input your numbers and tell me which set of numbers you are closer at. What would also help also would be for people who think they've bit off more than they can choose screenwise and those who wish they went larger also to do it. That would be a good real world (HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE) set of data to use.

I've also read

"Viewing distance in feet x 4 = TV size in inches"

Oh my, every body could give different answers on this one all day long and no body would really be right or wrong. If it seems to big at first, you'll probably get used to it. As a general rule (for me anyway) 48"@8', 55"-57" @10' and 60"-65"@12'. It seems to me anyway that this coincides with your field of view meaning 10" 's or so every 2' further back. I sit at 8' and have a 46" by the way. I thought it looked good but maybe a little big at first(coming from a 32" at 8') but got used to it very quickly and wouldn't change it now.

Thanks for the info people. I'll probably go 50, seems like a safe bet either way I slice up my room. biglyle I'm over here on the floor in the fetal position waiting to see those xbox pics. lol
I'm still leaning closer to the toshiba than the other model. I can find the toshiba closer to what I intend to spend right now.

Has anyone removed the plastic screen on the front of the TV? How hard is it to do it? Does it improve the picture? I see way too many reflections on the screen with the plastic screen in place.

You can remove it but you may face the screen sagging if you do it improperly, thats why instead of removing it completely, I chose to place it behind the other screens, that way it keeps the actually viewing screen from sagging and you lose the glare. as long as it is perfectly clean and dust free, you won't notice any loss in picture quality.

x-box pics are coming. Have had a little PC problems this weekend.
Give me 2 hours

Anybody know if there is a matching tower that goes with these sets? I saw a cheapie "audio tower" at Wal Mart that has three glass shelves and the edges match the look of the set quite well. Does Toshiba make one that matches? Thanks.

The smaller 46" (and under ??) sets have a matching stand. Go here, http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/accessories.asp.

question about this TV and progressive 3:2 dvd watching..

in the tv setup video screen there are two options to set:

1 - 1080i or 540p
2 - film or video

If I want progressive 3:2 - do i need to set the video to 540p? or does
the TV automatically detect that if it's set to "film" mode?

totalownership

these are for you, pic quality ain't the best as my digital camera doesn't take good motion shots (or it could be lack of operator know how, doubtful, but could be ;) )

logo

silverdome

at the line

in the huddle

again, sorry for the image quality, the game looks much, much better in person.

Originally posted by edamon
question about this TV and progressive 3:2 dvd watching..

in the tv setup video screen there are two options to set:

1 - 1080i or 540p
2 - film or video

If I want progressive 3:2 - do i need to set the video to 540p? or does
the TV automatically detect that if it's set to "film" mode?

My brief experience with this set jibes with most others who have posted here: There is little difference between 540p and 1080i for 480 input. Set your DVD player to 16x9 and turn progressive scan on, then try the TV with different settings (I didn't notice any improvement and set mine to 540p and video).

I recently tried to adjust the "preference" settings and on the video inputs I could adjust the contrast, but on the antenna input, the contrast appears to be automatic and somewhat high, around 75%. Is there a way to lower the contrast setting in the antenna input mode?

Thanks,

Jim

Cruisin9: Turn OFF the "ALS" or "Automatic light sensor" setting. If your contrast is locked or disabled, ALS must be "ON".

I've tried my DVD player, in progressive scan mode, on 540p and 1080i numerous times and can't notice a difference at all.

Does this only upconvert 480p input ?? If not, and it will upconvert 480i also, it might be worthwhile to turn progressive scan OFF on the DVD player and let the TV manipulate the signal.

Hall: Thanks for the info. I guess the ALS is also input specific, just like the brightness, contrast and tint.

Originally posted by hall
I've tried my DVD player, in progressive scan mode, on 540p and 1080i numerous times and can't notice a difference at all.

Does this only upconvert 480p input ?? If not, and it will upconvert 480i also, it might be worthwhile to turn progressive scan OFF on the DVD player and let the TV manipulate the signal.

Don't see any reason why you couldn't try that. Then you'd want to set the TV's Cinema Mode to Film for 3:2 pulldown. I assume the better DVD players will do better than the TV, but if you have a marginal DVD player or a nonprogressive one, then using the TV's film mode may help.

Cruisin: Each input has it's own settings.

Thanks biglyle , thanks for now making me have to go out and sell my body to get a set NOW. :( I see all I NEED to see from those pics. It's difficult to see the finer detail but things like the field and the stadium shots says it all. While mine looks like I'm playing a game yours looks like your AT the game. The field looks outstanding. I wish I would have requested you put some Giants shots in there. Then maybe it's better you didn't cause I'd have to go to a construction site and get a "key" for the front plate glass of my nearsest Toshiba dealer. :cool:
I gotta get one of these soon. I think, just maybe, just might next friday around veterans day I might "pull the trigger". I hope it doesn't take forever to deliver and I'm concerned about getting it into the apartment. There isn't much room in the door way and there's a wall flush with the front door outside. If I gave you guys some demensions do you think you guys can figure out whether I'm good or not?

I lost the battle between XBox and PS2.... My wife's arguement was we know a lot of people with PS2s and "we can trade or share games".

I've always thought games like football on the XBox looked like an actual game on TV !! Those shots just confirm it more.... And when I'd seen them in the store, it was on a 20" regular TV.

Hall: You are correct. I turned off the ALS on the "antenna 1" input and then I was able to adjust the contrast. I guess each input has to be adjusted individually for all the parameters including ALS, contrast, etc.

Thanks for the help!

Originally posted by hall
I lost the battle between XBox and PS2.... My wife's arguement was we know a lot of people with PS2s and "we can trade or share games".

I've always thought games like football on the XBox looked like an actual game on TV !! Those shots just confirm it more.... And when I'd seen them in the store, it was on a 20" regular TV.

Wife + electronics advice = :(

Does anybody know what de-interlacer and scaling chip the h84 toshibas use?

Hey Hall I guess it's my turn to eat crow. Remember when I said earlier about the wife and electronics? Well I just fell into the same "trap". I was on my way to pick up the Toshiba but we wanted to look around first and see what's up. So to make a long story short, Sony and Toshiba went head-to-head. KP-51WS520 and the 41H84 went neck and neck. Battling like two dogs. I actually looked at the Sony, well actually I had a thing against the Sony. So I really can't say I gave it a fair judgement initially in my quest for HDTV. The Sony looked good and the Toshiba looked good. But wifey wanted the Sony but I had "put my foot down" but when I looked in her eyes you would think that I just tied her puppy in a sack and threw him in the river. I felt so bad I caved in and got the Sony. Got it at Circuit City. They don't carry toshiba's there so I had to audition them at Best Buy. The Sony was cheaper at CC than at BB and was actually cheaper than both plus they threw in a free xbox (which BB is also doing afaik)

So thanks for the info guys but I wound up getting wifed in the back.

i purchased a 51H84 from Best buy about a month ago for $1480 (no xbox). The TV has been great. The picture is unbelievable. I noticed a couple black pixels, and I had a Best Buy tech come out, but he said it was dust. I think he is right, but a couple pixels are also blue. I can't see them from 9 feet away, so i'm not too worried about it. Really my only complaint. I have no "white line" whatever that is about. I used the Avia disc to calibrate. my setttings are:
Contrast: 70
Brightness: 30
Color: 40
Tint: R3
Sharpness: 30 (can't tell either way)
Color Temp: Medium
My contrast level seems high, i actually left it at 60, but when I calibrated it, that's what it liked. I will have to do it again I think. I also grabbed a wavefrom monitor/vectorscope from work, and hooked that up to my TV, but it makes no difference because The "video out" signal from the TV is independant from any settings you make. Anyway, I checked it with the color bars from the Avia disc, and the vectorscope colors were almost right on.

It was too hard to read the waveform levels. They seemed right, but I was getting a fat bar of black levels between 0-7.5 IRE. It should be right at 7.5, but maybe the waveform wasn't exactly calibrated.

Also, the waveform montor wouldn't give me a level from a DVI source, or Component. I had to use my PS2, with an S-video source. I don't know if this is for copyright protection, or the vectorscope can't understand the signal.

When the best buy tech came out, he went into the tech menu, and did the 56 point calibration. He spent a few minutes on it. I went into it yesterday, but It was a little overwhelming. It is so hard to tell that 1 pixel out of alignment. Also, I have a 5% overscan, which I would like to adjust because It cuts off sports graphics. The tech did say my television is one of the best pictures he'd seen. He was laughing at the fact that I even called him because he said the picture is so clean. He was very nice. Glad I got the warranty.

I am also running a Samsung DVD HD player (HD841), and a Comcast motorola box (6208, waiting for 6412 in L.A.). Fantastic TV, i am glad to be part of the HD world now.

go ahead portishead rub it in. I think you missed a spot. :D
Actually I thought the Sony had a great picture, believe it or not. I think for my application the Sony probably was the best bet, because honestly, wife is going to be on that set more than I. I spend most of my time in the bedroom on the boards with you guys :) and other boards. She spends most of her time in the living room on her laptop watching TV on the coach when we're not in the same room together. I think the Toshiba, from the pics I've seen here, gives more of a picture for xbox and NFL espn while the Sony gives more a picture for everyday viewing. I don't know if that made sense to any of you guys.

I recently had my white line fixed, but now I am having problems with my geometry. When I measure the black bars of widescreen programming not in 16x9, the width of the black bars on the ends of the set are shorter than the middle. This leads me to believe that the geometry is curving. Could any of you help me in adjusting this? I'm a projection set newbie and would like professional help, but I dont think I'm going to get another person to come out to my house (I live very far from the tech) to fix a geometry problem. I know I could use a laser level as a reference line, but the tv itself isn't level (we have a old house which has settled over time) so that wouldn't help. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Was there any cost to fix the white line issue, or was that covered under warranty? I think I've seen the white line a couple of times. It's not bothering me too much, but I do believe I see it. It was an August build 57h84. You'd think they'd have fixed it in those late ones!!

Hello, After reading the wealth of info in this forum and checking out consumers reports mag I have purchased a 65h14, same as the 65h84, from Sam's club. I am totally happy with the set so far. Brought it home 1 week ago. Have only tweaked some of the basic adjustments but will get a cal disk soon. Sam's has a lifetime return policy as long as you have the receipt so didn't buy the extended service plan. HD and DVD watching is great.. SD looks a lot better than I had thought it would.

I have decided to buy a 65h84 from Sam's Club... Sams Club's extended warranty is not as comprehensive as Best Buy's... I was going to ask if I shouldn't care and if Sam's Club's warranty is good enough...

But, after reading Bob's post... should I even bother to buy that extended warranty.. guys please share your thoughts on this...

Thanks!

Help I recently hooked up a DVI cable from my Cable box to my 57H93 and the picyure is shifted to the left. What can i do to correct this?

Originally posted by EDWARD032
Help I recently hooked up a DVI cable from my Cable box to my 57H93 and the picyure is shifted to the left. What can i do to correct this?

This may actually be a problem with the cable box itself and not the set. I have the SA4200HD and it does the same thing on 4x3 channels.

Unfortunately, I believe the HPOS setting is global across inputs so adjusting it for one affects all the others. Best bet is to use an overscan pattern like one found on Avia and adjust the set so that it is centered with around 3-4% overscan. That will be the best you can get it.

Do you watch standard channels in 4x3 mode or do you use one of the stretch modes?

Took delivery of a 57H84C today. I am quite happy with the picture so far, especially after hooking up the XBOX. :D

I have been playing around with the picture settings and one thing I am noticing is wherever there is red on the screen there are waht appear to be scan lines that follow the red around the screen. It is starting to get annoying. Does anyone know what adjustments might be needed to solve this?
My current settings are;


contrast 39
brightness 35
color 32
tint 0
sharpness 23
temp medium
dnr off

My connection is through S video from satellite

Originally posted by KimGI
Took delivery of a 57H84C today. I am quite happy with the picture so far, especially after hooking up the XBOX. :D

I have been playing around with the picture settings and one thing I am noticing is wherever there is red on the screen there are waht appear to be scan lines that follow the red around the screen. It is starting to get annoying. Does anyone know what adjustments might be needed to solve this?
My current settings are;


contrast 39
brightness 35
color 32
tint 0
sharpness 23
temp medium
dnr off


Making your adjustments in the MOVIE preset mode might help, if you didn't do that all ready. When you make all you menu settings in MOVIE mode, it disables SVM(scan velocity modulation) which can add some crazy stuff to your picture. If that doesn't do it, i've got what i would call some "noise" in some reds in my picture as well. They've always been that way, but aren't very distracting.
My connection is through S video from satellite :)

:confused:
Not sure what the heck happened there? My reply is jammed in with your quote. This wouldn't be the first time i've considered throwing my computer out the window!:D

Anyone had success hooking up a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR via its HDMI output to the DVI input on your Toshiba?

I only get a blank screen. I know the HDMI port works because other have commented it works with Mitsubishi, Panasonic, etc.

Is there a "handshake" issue with the HDMI port and a Toshiba?

Originally posted by AlbanyHDTV
I know the HDMI port works because other have commented it works with Mitsubishi, Panasonic, etc. Are these others in the same cable franchise as you ?? It's possible that not ALL 8300's have HDMI enabled everywhere yet.

Thanks Pittdog,

I thought I was in Movie mode but it's possible I wasn't. This is my first big screen so It's a HUGE learning curve compared to my 27" Fisher.

My connectino is also using S video. I'll try making adjustments again and post my results.


I've kicked a few computers in my time ;)

Originally posted by KimGI
Thanks Pittdog,

I thought I was in Movie mode but it's possible I wasn't. This is my first big screen so It's a HUGE learning curve compared to my 27" Fisher.

My connectino is also using S video. I'll try making adjustments again and post my results.


I've kicked a few computers in my time ;)



One other thing you can try is to hook it up via composite video. If the comb filter in the set is better than the one in the cable box, then it will probably look better this way. Just something to try.:cool:

Pittdog,

Did you mean to write composite or component? I don't have HD satellite receiver if you meant component.

I didn't try composite yet but I did reset my setting from movie mode and for now anyway it seems to have corrected things. I haven't seen a lot of red in anything I've watched today though. Will definately try the cables if it comes back.

Composite(yellow single wire video cable). I figured you didn't have component or you would have that hooked up all ready. Typically, s-video looks better, but on occasion depending on the box, composite can look better. It's worth a shot just to narrow down the problem.

Originally posted by CrimeDawg
Was there any cost to fix the white line issue, or was that covered under warranty? I think I've seen the white line a couple of times. It's not bothering me too much, but I do believe I see it. It was an August build 57h84. You'd think they'd have fixed it in those late ones!!

The fix was covered under warranty. The service tech called Toshiba for a confirmation of the issue (I printed out the tech bulletin) and they had no idea a bulletin had been released. He told them, "I'm looking at it right now", and they immediately "found" the instructions for the fix. The line isn't completely gone, but it is less noticeable. The only problem I had with the fix is that he screwed up my geometry and convergence and didn't fix it. Now he won't return my calls, so I may have to pay for a recalibration.

Gents:

Yesterday I ordered the 65H84 from Buy.com. The grand total with shipping is $1849. This was $554 less than my local Best Buy. I used my American Express card so they will double the warranty. This way I'll be covered with Toshiba year 1 and Amex year 2.

A few questions:
1. Many have suggested to buy from Costco or Sams in case something goes wrong. But are you guys really gonna pack up a 250lb tv and haul it back?
2. What has been your experience with Toshiba customer service? Did they give you a hard time about dispatching a technician to your home?
3. Any special things I should definitely do after I take it out of the box?

THANKS!!!!!

I wrote this thread in the rear projection site--but found this thread and thought it more appropriate here.



I first hooked up the set to a toshiba sd 5970 via hdmi--picture looked great with no ghosting on both ports.-- Then I hooked up motorola 6208 STB via dvi-hdmi cable from pacific cable and again tested both ports--picture was too dark on both ports--but no ghosting---then I hooked up the box via component and the picture came alive--great HD and so so SD as I expected------Comments?????

Originally posted by erndlc
I wrote this thread in the rear projection site--but found this thread and thought it more appropriate here.



I first hooked up the set to a toshiba sd 5970 via hdmi--picture looked great with no ghosting on both ports.-- Then I hooked up motorola 6208 STB via dvi-hdmi cable from pacific cable and again tested both ports--picture was too dark on both ports--but no ghosting---then I hooked up the box via component and the picture came alive--great HD and so so SD as I expected------Comments?????



I believe your set is a DLP set. This thread is in reference to Toshiba CRT RPTV's.

Long time lurker first time poster.

I have been wanting a hi-def capable CRT RPTV for about 4 years and I have now made the plunge.

Picked one up at BB for 999.99. Not too bad I think.

I plan to use it with my Sony DVP-NS575P player until I can upgrade. Anyone have any experience using these two together?

Does anyone know how to remove the speaker grill on the 46h83? I tried pulling firmly but didn't want to pull too hard and break anything... Tried pushing it up.. down.. with a good amount of pressure but no luck. I don't want to end up breaking any plastic parts or anything.

Thanks in advance..

Had my 46H84 delivered yesterday. I love it so far out of the box But I have a question that was somewhat answered way early in the thread but not completely.

When I am watching a 1.85 or 2.35 formatted source, it defaults to the "Full" mode. It looks nice and all but when it is full mode I see NO black bars for 1.85 sources, and some for the 2.35 source but not as much as there should be. Anyone know why this is? I know I am not missing much of the source, but I am a purist and I want to see the whole ratio.

When I put it in the "Natural" mode (which based on the manual seems like it should be the mode for this) I get gray bars on the side. Anyone know what's up?

Make sure your DVD player is set to 16:9 or widescreen set.If the DVD is set to 4:3 or pan & scan you will get bars on the sides in natural mode because the DVD player is sending a 4:3 picture to your set.

Originally posted by FredHD
It looks nice and all but when it is full mode I see NO black bars for 1.85 sources... That's completely correct. Your TV is 16:9. Divide 16 by 9 and you get 1.78. Sound familiar ?? For that matter, movies in 1.66:1, 1.78:1, and 1.85:1 will have no black bars (or none you can notice).

Have you read this ?? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332843

Make sure your DVD player is set to 16:9 or widescreen set.If the DVD is set to 4:3 or pan & scan you will get bars on the sides in natural mode because the DVD player is sending a 4:3 picture to your set.

My DVD player is set to 16:9, when I put it in normal it shows me a squished 4:3 image.


That's completely correct. Your TV is 16:9. Divide 16 by 9 and you get 1.78. Sound familiar ?? For that matter, movies in 1.66:1, 1.78:1, and 1.85:1 will have no black bars (or none you can notice).

Have you read this ?? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...threadid=332843

I understand the 16:9 ratio, what I'm saying is based on watching many 1.85:1 ratio films on other peoples TVs and I see some bars, and I see more bars on their 2.35 films than I do on mine, and that is what I want. Unlike J6P, I want to see those bars but I am not. That is how I know I am seeing the whole film.

Could be related to "overscan". Different TVs show a different percentage of overscan....

Fred HD, You are correct. I just tried it out on mine and get the squished 4:3 type picture using natural as well. However i can assure you that there is no stetching involved using FULL mode when viewing a widescreen format DVD. I used the DVE disc to confirm this. If you want the bars you'll have to reduce the overscan on your set. Mine was pretty good out of the box. About 4% is where i'm at and i shifted it slightly north(up) so i don't lose the tickers when i stretch 4:3 programming. I did mine by making a grid with string lines and adjusted in the service menu convergence . If you have alot of overscan you probably can't do it this way. There is a service menu option to change it the correct way but mine was very close so i chose to do it the harder way(very time consuming moving the whole grid one line at a time). Doing it this way also corrected geometry as well. all though this was very good out of the box as well.

Alright..first time poster...just made the plunge and ordered a 51H84 from BB on a turkey day special - a little under $1300. Seemed like a heck of a deal considering I have a buddy who bought a 51" RP Mitsu 4 years ago for $5500 (ouch). Supposed to be delivered Dec. 7th, man this is going to be a long week and a half. I'm just hoping I don't have the "white line" problem. This is my first time with a big-screen so I'm new to this...here's the steps I'm thinking about taking from reading this forum, let me know if I'm off....

1. Drop brightness/contrast to 50/50. Run Avia/DVE to adjust convergence and brightness/contrast about ~1 wk after I get the unit. I may use the THX optimizer on Monsters Inc until I get Avia in.
2. Have ordered HD cable from Cox, don't know the model yet of the DVR unit they're sending out, but I'm planning on hooking this up through component at first. I don't know if the DVI/HDMI interface is going to be on the unit at all yet. Wish I had Comcast...Cox customer service stinks.
3. Inputs -- HD Cable, component Xbox with the HD pack, DVD (see below)

My DVD player is an "early adopter" unit, a Apex that I bought about 4 years ago. It's not a progressive scan or anything, and only has an S-video out, so I'm not going to use it. I do have the Xbox DVD player pack, I could use this to start; however, I don't know how good of a player it is. Any recommendations for a good DVD player under $150 for the Tosh? I blew my load on the TV this year and don't have a lot extra to play with.

last night I was watching Star Wars AOTC to see the asteroid chase that everyone and their brother has suggested as reference material and I noteiced something weird. During these scenes the entire screen would get a reddish tint (even the black bars) for a few seconds and then go back to normal. I watched it twice. I thought maybe it was the cables (I'm using cheapies because the interconnect on my good component came apart), but I tried two other DVDs (Empire Strikes Back and X-Men 2) and I did not see the same issue. I also turned on my regular SD cable (via RG6) and did not see it. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you think maybe it was just the DVD?

How do you turn off SVM in these TV's. Is it in the plain user's menu listed as something else or in the service menu. Thanks

To avoid repeating something that's been answered quite often, scroll to the top of this page and "Search this thread" for "svm".

Originally posted by broonsbane
How do you turn off SVM in these TV's. Is it in the plain user's menu listed as something else or in the service menu. Thanks

But see this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4556453#post4556453) because my TV's menus do not contain a preference to turn SVM on/off, nor does my owner's manual make any mention of SVM. However, supposedly, putting the TV into Movie/Theater mode first -- and then making adjustments to contrast, brightness, etc. -- will turn SVM off.

Originally posted by Eben
But see this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4556453#post4556453) because my TV's menus do not contain a preference to turn SVM on/off, nor does my owner's manual make any mention of SVM. However, supposedly, putting the TV into Movie/Theater mode first -- and then making adjustments to contrast, brightness, etc. -- will turn SVM off.

Movie preset has been proven to disable svm on these sets. It does not mention it in the owners's manual but it does disable it.

Ok I'm a bit confused about SVM. Most of you all have said that in movie mode SVM is disabled, so too adjust picture settings from movie mode for best results. Well if SVM makes the picture worse then why did Toshiba even put this future in there sets anyways if it makes the picture worse? Also If SVM is disabled in Movie mode what level is SVM in standard and Sports modes (I would assume Low SVM in Standard and High SVM in Sports modes but just a hunch? Personally after many hours fine tuning the Toshiba 46H84 that I got about a month ago I would say Movie mode is a bit to blury for my taste when playing my Xbox, but perfect for watching DVD's. So I adjust for games in the standard mode. Anyways I have come to love this set and playing Halo 2 on Xbox live I feel very happy about my choice in buying this RPTV. I just cannot wait tell Xbox Next comes out with games that support 1080i and 720p and this TV being able to display them properly other then the 720p being upconverted to 1080i.

Just about every set has SVM or the same thing under another name such as, perfect picture ,etc. The reason they include this feature is that it gives a false sense of added sharpness by adding artificial edges to objects with contrast between light and dark. To the uninformed consumer this picture looks sharper. To someone who knows what the picture is supposed to look like, it definitely looks artificial. The best thing you can do to make your set sharper(without getting into electrical and manual focus adjustments) is to do a very good manual convergence, prefferably in the service menu. Also make sure you've set-up with a calibration disc to get settings right. It's not really Toshibas fault about the SVM being there, they are just playing along with all the other mfg's. Also your settings will probably vary by source(from your DVD player to your X-box) as you've all ready seen. Enjoy your set, they are really good sets, and at a great price.

I am considering the purchase of a 65H93.

Should I expect to need to fix the "center white line" issue once the set is delivered? Are people seeing this problem on the H93?

Wondering if Toshiba ever addressed the problem on the production line.

Thanks.

Thx alot for the info pittdog1. Still I personally think overall that sometimes SVM can improve the picture on the low setting.

You're welcome, and on some very soft looking sources or channels you may be right about svm on low setting. All that really matters is what looks best to you. Enjoy it!

The biggest reason I chose this RPTV the Toshiba 46H84 over Sony and Hitachi models was because Consumer Reports has the Toshiba 57H83 as the highest rated RPTV. When I went to Best Buy to try to find a good TV around $1000 I found this set on sell for $1379. Well lets just say my wife was like no its to much, but I ended up talking here into getting the set so we did. So we ended up getting this set with the ($250) 4 year service plan for a total of $1450, because I talked them down almost $200 witch seems like a good buy to me and still does to this day. Anyways that was my buying story for this wonderful RPTV. I do have a question though. I didn't compare the picture quality side by side with the best RPTV's from other manufacturers to see with my own eyes that these are the best RPTV's on the market. So if any of you guys could confirm that the picture quality on the Toshiba's are the best or atleast in your opinion the best for RPTV's that are on the market right now please tell me what you think.

CREWZ - I can do that for you because the store where I bought my 46H84 had the similar Hitachi model and Panasonic all side by side and they were playing the DVD of "Monsters Inc.". The salesman was telling me that the Toshiba was superior in every way and said let me show you, then he froze the picture on them all; he then proceeded to show me how the Toshiba was the only one where the feathery suit of that main creature - all the detail was much more visible on the 46H84. That plus and article in some magazine sold me. Excellent TV.

BEST Wishes! Michael;)

Anyone know the native, or default, resolution for a 57H83, it's not listed in manual or web page?

I would presume it to be 1080i. The appendix in the manual does state:

Suggested scan rates: 1080i, 480p, 480i

I would think it would read 1080i, 540p, and 480i though. 480i would be standard analog displayed as-is. 540p (or 1080i) is what the set upconverts 480p input signals to as there is no "off" or "do not upconvert" option.

I need a quick and dirty education from you Toshiba CRT gurus.

1) What are the differences between the 65H84 and 65H14?

2) Is the 65H93 a discontinued model?

I own a 52" JVC D-ILA but I'm doing some research for my nephew who's planning on buying the 65H93. My limited research tells me it's a discontinued model. The 65H84 seems to be Toshiba's best CRT and the only one with an HDMI input. Am I on the right track?

Thanks

Thanks Hall -

Trying to match up my HTPC with as little overscan as possible. Have a ATI 9600xt card in it. I was going to use the ATI 'DVI to Component adapter' for the video connection. What I was looking for is a spec in the format of "57H83 native resolution is nnn x nnn".

I found the note in the appendix you mention, but it seems to apply to the DVI/HDCP input. I wonder if it holds true for component input?

Originally posted by etcarroll
What I was looking for is a spec in the format of "57H83 native resolution is nnn x nnn". I've seen what you're after somewhere but I can't recall where. :D Search either this thread or maybe something in the HTPC forum here at AVS.

Originally posted by IndyJake
2) Is the 65H93 a discontinued model? The last digit denotes the model year, i.e. 2003 for "3" or 2004 for "4". You might still find a 65H93 at some retailer that's still "new".

The "93" is probably a better model than the "84" too. One is a higher "series" and the other is, well, I can't recall. The "93" also has a built-in HD tuner, whereas the "84" likely doesn't.

Hall,

Thanks for the info. Yes, the 93 includes a tuner while the 84 doesn't. But I still can't figure out what the difference is between the 65H84 and the 65H14

I kept thinking "14" was a typo, but it's not...

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=65H84
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=65H14

I'll let you sort through those pages to find the difference. :D

I think the 65h14 is an all silver unit sold only at places like Costco clubs. Otherwise, it's the same as the 65h84. A lot of companys do this to make it harder to price shop from store to store.

Ben Music

Been researching various RP CRTs and have a question about the Toshiba 51H94 (includes HD tuner). The specs say it has firewire ports. Any idea what these could be used for?

I think the only thing holding me back from deciding on a toshiba is the white line issue. Also looking at hitachi and sony. Seems like Toshibas will stetch a 4:3 image best of them all. And this firewire port on the 51H94 intrigues me.

Originally posted by captenblack
I think the only thing holding me back from deciding on a toshiba is the white line issue. Also looking at hitachi and sony. Seems like Toshibas will stetch a 4:3 image best of them all. And this firewire port on the 51H94 intrigues me.

Stretching on the Toshiba's is much better vs. the Sony's. I've owned both..... swapped out a 57H83 for a KP57WS510 due to the center drive line issue along with the jail-bar problem.

The simple fix for stretching is to do it from the STB...... I prefer the stretch modes from my HTL-HD over the Sony's.

Hope this helps.....

Originally posted by Ramsrule
Stretching on the Toshiba's is much better vs. the Sony's. I've owned both..... swapped out a 57H83 for a KP57WS510 due to the center drive line issue along with the jail-bar problem.

The simple fix for stretching is to do it from the STB...... I prefer the stretch modes from my HTL-HD over the Sony's.

Hope this helps.....

Thanks for the info, Ramsrule. I'll check out my Directv box to see if I can stretch the image with it.

How far do you sit from your Sony?

My couch is 12 ft away from it....... and at times I think that's a smidgeon too close.

Right now, I'm sitting at my PC about 18 feet away watching the NFL Game Of the Week on Ch 98 and just love the picture from this distance. I think maybe that sports are better at farther distances since you can take in everything a bit easier, while movies are fine at the closer distance.

Boy, I sure am glad I didnt get a 65"........ :D

Indyjake,
I bought the 65h14 from Sam's club about 3 weeks ago. I talked to Toshiba support and also sent them a email, they confirmed this is the same tv as the 65h84. I am very happy with it. The Sam's club I went to has a unlimited return policy as long as I have the receipt, not all Sam's have this policy. HD is awsome.

Ok, I have this TV(46H84) being delivered on Tuesday along with HD service. I am in the dark about most of this stuff. My question is: Can I place my home theatre speakers on or right beside the TV? I know some older TVs, this would cause the tube to discolor because of the magnets, i think?? can this be done with the 46H84? Any help would be cool!! Thanks

I would imagine the same thing would happen with the newer sets. If your speakers are magnetically shielded then it shouldn't be a problem. Click the gallery tab at the top of my post to see my 46H83 and speaker set-up.
Make sure as soon as you get your set to reduce everything to around 50%. If you get used to any of the factory modes settings(way to bright) then you will feel your picture is to dim after calibrating with a disc. Not to mention how hard it is on the sets crt's. If you have any questions after you get your set, be sure and post them here or PM me for help as our sets are almost identical and i've had mine for nearly a year.

I agree with that. The TVs don't have some shielding in them to protect them from speakers. The speakers are "expected" to be properly designed to be used near a TV.....

My 57H84 has a platform on the top that's there for a center-channel speaker.

Well I’ve been the proud owner of a 51h84 for the last 28 days. I previously tried out a Mitsubishi 52” DLP which had an outstanding HD picture but its inability to produce accurate blacks (mostly in darker scenes) forced me to give it up. It had other issues which I won’t get into here but needless to say I have been impressed with the PQ on my Toshiba. I do see the CDL (white line) at times but compared with the video noise I would see on the Mitsubishi it really doesn’t bother me much. One thing that’s making me believe there might be something wrong with my tv is that during dark scenes I see a reddish tint (similar to the post made by FredHD) on the right and left sides of the screen (to include the top and bottom black bars). I’ve calibrated my set with avia so contrast and brightness levels are optimum. I do notice the problem gets worse if I turn up the brightness (the redness then spreads to the rest of the screen) and improves when it’s turned down. It won’t go away completely unless it’s turned way down (around 25) when watching DVDs, which is definitely too dark to be watchable. I can see the problem to varying degrees on DVD component input, DVD HDMI input and HD component input. IMO this problem is far more irritating than CDL issue which leads me to believe the problem is specific to my tv (since I haven't seen any posts describing the same problem). I will try to capture an image tonight with my digital camera and post.

Pitdog,

Thanks for the help and I'll probably email you when I get some questions. My speakers are Kenwood and they are about 3-4 years old. I woul dexpect them to have the shielding but what do you all think? They werent overly expensive, about $400 for the whole box.

I'm assuming this Kenwood system was an HTIB? If it was then i would assume it has the proper shielding. If you have a dedicated center channel speaker i would imagine that it is shielded as i have yet to see one that is not. Also, if it was a Home theater in a box type set(HTIB), then i would also believe that the speakers(at least the front 3) should be shielded. Did you check out my pics? If not check them out . I've got a center channel sitting on top of my set and R & L speakers just a couple of inches to either side of the set. Good luck when you get it and keep us informed !

Originally posted by jim321
One thing that’s making me believe there might be something wrong with my tv is that during dark scenes I see a reddish tint (similar to the post made by FredHD) on the right and left sides of the screen (to include the top and bottom black bars). I’ve calibrated my set with avia so contrast and brightness levels are optimum. I do notice the problem gets worse if I turn up the brightness (the redness then spreads to the rest of the screen) and improves when it’s turned down. It won’t go away completely unless it’s turned way down (around 25) when watching DVDs, which is definitely too dark to be watchable. I can see the problem to varying degrees on DVD component input, DVD HDMI input and HD component input. IMO this problem is far more irritating than CDL issue which leads me to believe the problem is specific to my tv (since I haven't seen any posts describing the same problem). I will try to capture an image tonight with my digital camera and post.

You're not alone; I see this on my set, too.

I want to purchase a DVD to calibrate my TV. Which is better....Avia or DVE?

im thinking about buying the 57h84 from onecall and was curious about viewing angles is it pretty well viewed from all angles or is their only athe sweet spot straight on thxs

Hey everyone, I just got my 46H84 delivered about 30 min sago. It is like 35 degrees here in Va and I was wondering if I should let the Toshiba "acclimate" itself to my house(72 degrees)? Should I not turn it on for a period of time or what????

Just give it some warm love and affection and wait about two hours. But I don't think anything would happen if you turned on the set now.

Originally posted by snakeyes1022
im thinking about buying the 57h84 from onecall and was curious about viewing angles is it pretty well viewed from all angles or is their only athe sweet spot straight on thxs


These sets have a very wide viewing angle. The only drawback is(really with all rear projection sets) the vertical viewing angle. Usually people are seated when viewing and this is no biggie.:cool:

Ok, I'm setting up my new 46H84 and I have run into an issue. I have the RCA DTC210 HD STB and am trying to run the DVI output from that into my 46H84 with a DVI to HDMI converter cable. However, when I switch to DVI input, the picture is all Yellow and Red!!! It is VERY weird. What causes this??? Do I have a bad HDMI input on my 46H84, please help. All of my other inputs work fine like component, and the rest. When I say wacky picture colors, I mean like psychadelic, weird. Any help??

Could be a couple of things. First, since i'm unfamiliar with your box, if you go into the menu of your stb is there a selection for component, DVI etc.?
If there is , make sure you select DVI. Also , the DVI output may not be active on that box as is the case with my Scientific Atlanta HD DVR. Or it could just be the stb itself is screwed up or the HDMI input on your set. I would suspect the least likely would be the HDMI on your set. You can post a thread in the HDTV hardware forum here at AVS with your particular box and see if there is any compatability issues with it and your set or any quirks on the box itself. Very knowledgeable people on that forum about this type of stuff. Give it a try.
On a side note, unless you just need the extra component input on your set for something else, the HDMI probably won't look any better than component on your set. But it would be nice just to make sure you don't have a faulty box or input on your set just the same. Good luck!

Originally posted by jim321
One thing that’s making me believe there might be something wrong with my tv is that during dark scenes I see a reddish tint (similar to the post made by FredHD) on the right and left sides of the screen (to include the top and bottom black bars). I’ve calibrated my set with avia so contrast and brightness levels are optimum. I do notice the problem gets worse if I turn up the brightness (the redness then spreads to the rest of the screen) and improves when it’s turned down. It won’t go away completely unless it’s turned way down (around 25) when watching DVDs, which is definitely too dark to be watchable. I can see the problem to varying degrees on DVD component input, DVD HDMI input and HD component input. IMO this problem is far more irritating than CDL issue which leads me to believe the problem is specific to my tv (since I haven't seen any posts describing the same problem). I will try to capture an image tonight with my digital camera and post.

I'm experiencing the same thing!!!!

I've been screwing with my settings all night and I can't figure out the problem. I didn't notice it when I first got the set but now I can't watch a dark scene without seeing the "redness." At first I thought it was the speakers (even though they're shielded) so I moved them away. I tried different DVD players. Still the same. What IS this? I'm very disappointed at the moment :( I just got this tv not 2 weeks ago and I don't even feel like watching it now.

Actually, now on DVDtalk I'm hearing that a Best Buy HT person was instructed to send all 51 and 57" Toshiba's back because of defects and returns. Anyone else hear about this?

I saw that thread on DVDtalk, and what is being referenced is a factory recall based on safety issues with some of the 51H83 and 57H83 sets. There is no reference to PQ concerns.

Please see the following link from the Toshiba website for details:

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/51h83/docs/safety_notice.asp

Tim

Oh well. Kills that theory I guess.
Wasn't even the same model #.

I'm having someone from PC Richard come out and look at it on Friday and a Toshiba tech come on Monday. Nothing else to do because I can't get my money back. :(

I have the 57h83, and got a notice from Toshiba in the mail about this. Based on serial# my unit wasn't affected. However, I called them for more info, and found the CSR pleasant and helpful.

Here's a question: in the convergence menu, is there any way to reset the settings in there? I'm wondering if someone who was looking at my tv had possibly screwed with something while I wasn't looking. To be honest, I don't remember the set looking like this when I first got it a week and a half ago.

Originally posted by DigitalfreakNYC
Here's a question: in the convergence menu, is there any way to reset the settings in there? I'm wondering if someone who was looking at my tv had possibly screwed with something while I wasn't looking. To be honest, I don't remember the set looking like this when I first got it a week and a half ago.


You could reset your convergence back to the factory settings through the convergence menu. Although if you’re trying to fix the “redness” issue that probably won’t help. I think the problem has always existed on mine, it just took a week or so to notice it. No one has touched my tv but me so I can’t put the blame on anyone else. I’m curious to hear how your service calls go on Friday and Monday…let us know.

Jim,

Will do. You just got yours a week ago?

Weird. I wonder if this is a problem with newer models?

I just got home. Reset the colors.

And still red. :( I was certain that's what it could have been. Oh well.

I'm very upset.

So I figured it out.

It was (mostly) my player. I am using a Malata as my primary player (so that I can be region free) and a Panasonic as my DVD recorder. I calibrated the tv properly on the Panasonic and realized that the malata then was way too bright. And brightness is what causes a majority of the "redness" that I see. I brought down the brightness on the Malata to about -15 and voila! It now has the same beautiful picture as my recorder.

Now, is it still there? Yes. Is it bad? Not at all. I'd say there is an acceptable amount at the moment. I may still hire someone to come out and look at calibrating my tv. The problem was HORRIBLE before and now it's barely noticeable. I suggest checking your player if you end up with the same problem.

Btw...how does one access the service menu? I'd think about doing the two things mentioned to me on various forums but I don't know how to even get there! :)

I'm still going to keep the appointments to see what I can get out of them but I'm not expecting much.

I'm pretty sure the instuctions have been given here in this thread several times. Just do a search on this thread for "service menu" at the top of the page.

RCUT did it. No more redness on the sides :) I cut it by 8 clicks and it was gone. Try it but BE CAREFUL IN THE SERVICE MENU!

Originally posted by DigitalfreakNYC
RCUT did it. No more redness on the sides :) I cut it by 8 clicks and it was gone. Try it but BE CAREFUL IN THE SERVICE MENU!

Would you please be more specific about what you did to fix this problem?
Thanks,
Eben

Originally posted by DigitalfreakNYC
RCUT did it. No more redness on the sides :) I cut it by 8 clicks and it was gone. Try it but BE CAREFUL IN THE SERVICE MENU!

Excellent news! I would defintely like to hear more specifics on how you were able to do this in the service menu. Have you noticed any negative effects on the picture quality (color, detail, etc)?

Thanks,
Jim

went into the service menu and lowered the RCUT by 8 clicks. Not sure what the setting is now but the redness is completely gone. Any redness in the picture I lost, just compensated in the regular menu with "color." Looks great to me. Put on some movies that had strong reds and didn't notice any negatives.

I dropped mine by 6 and notice a 100% improvement! I need to calibrate with avia again but I think everything should be cool as far as PQ goes. Thanks a lot!

Jim

I'm assuming that you guys having the problem have H84 sets? Just curious, as i have never heard this brought up before with the H83 sets and mine doesn't have the red push. I'm glad you guys figured it out and can enjoy them now. I read somewhere on this forum that the H84's use different guns than the H83's. Maybe that has something to do with it. Who knows, but like i said, at least you got it figured out. Enjoy!

I haven't noticed it once since that one night. Maybe it was the disk I was watching (AOTC)

Well I read every single post in this thread last night and decided to pull the trigger and buy a 65h84 today at a great price.... I was going to get the Mitsu 65 but I couldn't pass up the $600.00 difference, and the all the positive things said about 84 units here...

It's being delivered Thursday so I was wondering if someone could help me on a measurement thing... I need to build a base to set the unit on so the screen bottom height will clear the end of my bed... If someone could give me the measurement from floor to where the screen starts I'd appreciate it.



Is there anything I should keep an eye out for when setting up other than the start with Movie mode to disable to the SVM? My last two sets were Sonys so this Toshiba is a whole new animal to me.

Thanks

I just received my 65H84 two days ago and to say that I've been impressed with it is an understatement. The PQ is alot better than I could have imagined.

When I first hooked up my DVD player I only had a cheap composite cable that was the required 6' long that I needed so I used that for the component output. I was a bit concerned though when I first started watching it as I noticed some weird horizontal coloured lines throughout the picture. I was very relieved to know that it was the cables that I was using that was causing this so they were replaced with a good quality set and man what a difference. I love this TV!!!

As for your question about the screen hieght, it's 26" from the floor up to where the bottom of the screen starts. Width is 60", Depth is 26 1/4".

My unit came with the contrast set to max (100). You may want to put it at 50 and do the DVE or AVIA disc set up right away. Enjoy!

Originally posted by Swederic
As for your question about the screen hieght, it's 26" from the floor up to where the bottom of the screen starts. Width is 60", Depth is 26 1/4".

My unit came with the contrast set to max (100). You may want to put it at 50 and do the DVE or AVIA disc set up right away. Enjoy!

Perfect on the screen height info thanks... I just built a 72"x28"x6" platform this evening to lift it up a little bit... I love power tools! The screen will start at the same height my old Sony 43" did.

Originally posted by pittdog1
I'm assuming that you guys having the problem have H84 sets? Just curious, as i have never heard this brought up before with the H83 sets and mine doesn't have the red push. I'm glad you guys figured it out and can enjoy them now. I read somewhere on this forum that the H84's use different guns than the H83's. Maybe that has something to do with it. Who knows, but like i said, at least you got it figured out. Enjoy!

I've got a 51H84. I came very close to returning it because of the issue with the redness shrouding the sides of the picture in dark scenes. Hopefully these posts will help others out there with the same problem.

I've read the instructions on how to access the service menu, but am unsure what to do from there. Are the remote commands similar to the commands in the owner's manual for selecting and moving the cursor for convergence? How do you move around/select/exit the menus/submenus?
TIA,
Eben

In the service menu, use Channel up/down to scroll through the parameters. Use Volume up/down to change the value of a given parameter.

First though, write down all your current SM settings before making any changes.

Tim

Originally posted by OvalNut
In the service menu, use Channel up/down to scroll through the parameters. Use Volume up/down to change the value of a given parameter.

First though, write down all your current SM settings before making any changes.

Tim

Thank you!

But, of course, I forgot some things.

Please confirm or fill in the blanks, thanks.

1. Access Service Menu by press mute on remote 2 (or 3) times then 1 more and hold that third/fourth mute down. While holding the mute button down, press the menu button on the set then release both buttons at the same time. An S should appear on the screen. Then press menu ON THE SET??? again.
2. Use channel up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to scroll through the parameters and write down current values.
3. Change a setting by using channel up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to scroll to a parameter to change, then use volume up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to change the value of that parameter.
4. ? How to save changes and exit the SM?

NOTE: If I think I screwed anything up by accident, turn the set off with the power button on the set.

Originally posted by Eben
But, of course, I forgot some things.

Please confirm or fill in the blanks, thanks.

1. Access Service Menu by press mute on remote 2 (or 3) times then 1 more and hold that third/fourth mute down. While holding the mute button down, press the menu button on the set then release both buttons at the same time. An S should appear on the screen. Then press menu ON THE SET??? again.

2. Use channel up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to scroll through the parameters and write down current values.

3. Change a setting by using channel up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to scroll to a parameter to change, then use volume up/down ON THE REMOTE??? to change the value of that parameter.

4. ? How to save changes and exit the SM?

NOTE: If I think I screwed anything up by accident, turn the set off with the power button on the set.

After the S appears on your screen you can do the rest of the commands from EITHER the remote or the set. I used the remote because I could sit away from the TV.

When you press menu (after the S appears) you will see the RCUT option. Factory default for RCUT should be 90H and I agree with DigitalfreakNYC that reducing it by 8 is perfect. Use the VOLUME down button to reduce it. Your new RCUT setting should be 88H.

At this point I'm sure there's a better way to exit the SM but I've just been powering off the TV (from either the set or remote). I've verified that this does save the changes I made.

Originally posted by jim321
After the S appears on your screen you can do the rest of the commands from EITHER the remote or the set. I used the remote because I could sit away from the TV.

When you press menu (after the S appears) you will see the RCUT option. Factory default for RCUT should be 90H and I agree with DigitalfreakNYC that reducing it by 8 is perfect. Use the VOLUME down button to reduce it. Your new RCUT setting should be 88H.

At this point I'm sure there's a better way to exit but I've just been powering off the TV (from either the set or remote). I've verified that this does save the changes I made.

Thank you, Jim, I'll give it a try this weekend. BTW, if all I'm doing is changing a parameter (such as RCUT), and not adjusting convergence, should I still warm the set up for 20-30 minutes first?
Thanks again,
Eben

If you plan on just reducing the RCUT by 8 then I wouldn't worry about warming up your set. On the other hand your red push may not be as bad as ours (or it could possibly be worse). In which case you would want to warm up your set in order to adjust the RCUT specically for your TV.

A big thanks to everyone for your help. Got into the service menu (3 presses and hold for my set) without trouble and used the volume down (8 presses) and the "red haze" is gone! Picture looks much improved (and I still haven't done 56-point convergence!). (FYI, my starting RCUT was 80H and after the adjustment was 78H.)
Thanks again,
Eben

I'm glad my "8 point system" is working for everyone!! :)

Originally posted by gorak7
I need to play with the Auto Aspect a bit, but, there is a place to save the vast majority of the picture settings, contrast, sharpness, etc., but it doesn't let you save the picture aspect for some goofy reason.
More directly, is there a setting in the Service Mode that will set Auto Aspect to be 1:TW1 rather than 0:Normal for 4:3 material

The AutoAspect is kind of cool to see in action - I've seen it work with DVDs that have some 4:3 material and some Widescreen material, and I will see the gray bars added to the 4:3 and the TV switch automatically to Full for 16:9 material. I'd just like to be able to change it to use TW1 for the 4:3 stuff. This will simplify my JP1 remote macros somewhat.

right now i'm am looking at a model from FS that is Toshiba 57H84C

what is up with the C at the end?

Okay so I got my 65H84 delivered and into the house yesterday afternoon just before the downpour started here in Los Angeles... WHEW!

First impressions... HDTV looks amazing on the set!!! I'm using a DirecTV HR10-250 HD DVR and the pics just pop!

I initially had a problem with DVDs from my SONY 400 DVD changer. The pic was really grainy so I tried a couple of different settings until I came up with the right combo... Progressive scan out, 540p setting on TV is giving me the best pic now.

My biggest concern is burn in.... My HR10-250 puts grey panels on the side of 4x3 material. I hate watching in "stretch" mode but I'm worried about leaving up the grey bars and getting some burn in. My current settings are:

Contrast: 43
Brightness: 40
Color: 27
Tint: 4 to the right
Sharpness: 45
Temp: Warm

Anybody seeing any burn in problems with 4x3 material?

Oh... also I got into the service menu this morn.... My RCUT is 98H, and I have a little red push... I haven't adjusted yet I want the set to break in a little first.... MY vertical size is too big, images are slightly taller than they should be. What is the code in the parameters for Vertical size? I want to make sure I don't change the wrong setting.

Originally posted by VeniceDre
My biggest concern is burn in.... My HR10-250 puts grey panels on the side of 4x3 material. I hate watching in "stretch" mode but I'm worried about leaving up the grey bars and getting some burn in. The Toshiba also uses gray instead of black for the sidebars. I've read that that's a "better" color or shade for preventing burn-in vs using black (or some other color).

Originally posted by Gymrat123
right now i'm am looking at a model from FS that is Toshiba 57H84C

what is up with the C at the end?

I think the "C" at the end indicates a Canadian model. I'm not sure of the difference.

I have the 46H84 and the manual that comes with it is for the 46H84 and the 46H84C, but I have not been able to find any specific mention of the difference. The only thing I can see is there are separate warranty pages for US and Canada.

I see from a couple other posts by Gymrat123 where he lists links for TVs at Futureshop. That's a Canadian electronics retailer.... I'd agree with ArcticGabe that "C" denotes a Canadian model.

I'll hopefully buy the 65H84 tomorrow or very soon. I'm just waiting on a price from a local guy. This thread is GREAT, it made my decision very easy. I was looking at the Sony 70 inch LCD but decided against it after I heard about the newer Sony 70's coming out. I'll go with this set for many good years I hope and then we'll see what happens. lol

Looking forward to it.

I have an 811 Dish Network HD receiver. What setting should I use to view the 65H84, 720p or 1080i? They give both options in the reciver menu. I assume it's 1080i when viewing the TV in 1080i, but what if I chose the 540p for the TV, what would the setting be in the HD receiver? 720?

That TV can't display 720p, so you need to choose 1080i in the 811. I'm guessing it will upconvert any 720p to 1080i if you did enable it.

Is the Toshiba warranty an In-home service or do I need to bring it into a service center for repairs, if needed? I'm not certain if I can purchase the extended warranty from where I might buy the set.

Also, would a professional ISF calibration be advised right away or should I wait a few months for any reason? Any reputable ISF calibrators that are in Northern NJ I can contact?

I've had a toshiba 46H84 for about 2 weeks now and I have the audio output going to a sony receiver. I also have a JVC dvd player connected to the TV (ColorStream Input 1) through component video cables. The audio from the dvd player is connected to the tv in the audio inputs below the colorstream Video inputs.

My problem is that no matter what I do, I can't get the audio setting on the TV to let me into MTS. I can change the WOW settings, but not the MTS. It is greyed out and stuck on mono. Am I mistaken, or should it be able to be changed to stereo? Please help!

Hi Folks,

Let me just start off and say that this forum has been very helpful to me with my recent decision to purchase the 65H84. Combined with the knowledge here, my own viewing, and with various reviews in professional home theater magazines, I feel that the 65H84 is clearly the best HD TV for the dollar. I absolutely love the brilliant images this TV produces, and I haven't even calibrated it yet (other than lowering the contrast).

My problem: I have the vertical white line issue. I know that some 65H84 owners are not seeing this, but I am definitely seeing it exactly as described by the Toshiba technical bulletin (ref WU060404; Google it). I can also slightly see the line on other light backgrounds such as light blue. The line is hard to spot. My friends can't see it until I tell them where it is at. By the way, a great movie scene to spot this problem is in The Matrix when Neo is first introduced to the Matrix simulator (chapter 12) in that huge white room when the camera pans.

I've called both Toshiba and an authorized service center. Toshiba won't let me talk to their technical staff, but they will let me speak to their script-reading staff that focuses more on "how to operate" side of things. Toshiba will not admit that the problem is happening on the 65H84, and they told me to unplug the TV for 30 minutes to reset it to see if it will go away (yeah, right).

The authorized service center did, however, speak with the Toshiba technical staff, and they too indicate that they have no record of the problem happening with the 65H84. They noted that the technical bulletin for the 65HX83 and 93 does not apply to the 65H84.

My questions: (1) has anyone with a 65H84 had their white line issue fixed? If so, did the technician use the 65HX83/93 fix described in the technical bulletin (ref WU060404) for the 65H84? Maybe I can get the phone number of the service center so I can have them share the fix my service center? (2) Maybe Toshiba did fix the white line issue with the 65H84 series, and perhaps what I am seeing is the post-fix version that (I've heard) remains faint even after the fix?

Argh, the technician is coming out tomorrow to look at my TV, and I want him to fix the issue while at my house. I don't want him to take my TV back the shop. I'd rather live with the white line issue than to have the TV experimented on and moved about. It really is a small issue that I can live with, but nonetheless, I'd like it fixed considering that I paid $1850 for it.

Thanks for any help!


David

Well, I've had the 65H84C (in Canada) for just about 3 weeks now. I must say the picture is GREAT on this unit. But, I too have the "white line". I have decided that it's something I can live with. I only notice it on certain scenes in a movie and it really doesn't bother me much. I must admit though that I am puzzled at Toshiba not having fixed this issue at the factory after so many sets have this condition. Sending someone to my house to rip the TV apart and solder a wire on it doesn't appeal to me and from what I've read, it does not completely go away. Surely Toshiba could have fixed this during production and there would be no more people complaining about it.

Anyway, so far so good with my set. I would rather the white line be gone altogether, but I don't want someone tearing the set apart to simply lessen it.

Yeah, I too see the horizontal white line just to the right of center... It's barely there but I've noticed it.... I can live with it for now... Another interesting thing is when I feed the set a 720p signal I can see a thin black vertical line. I guess the set's conversion is doing this. I'm leaving my HD DirecTivo at 1080i output.

I tinkered around with the service menu and DVE last night and did the following adjustments:

HIT -3
HPOS -1
RCUT -6
BCUT -4

For all those messing with RCUT don't forget the BCUT if you picture is blue now! My picture height and positioning is perfect now and my color looks awesome! Even with the white line I'm extremely happy with my purchase! In my opinion they're big but you can't beat the picture quality of a CRT RPTV.

Final settings are:

Contrast: 43
Brightness: 39
Color: 26
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 30
Temp: Warm

Can anyone tell me if the back inputs of the 57" Toshiba are located at the exact depth of the TV. My cabinet is 24" deep and I known the 57" is 24 inches deep. Will I have room for cables?

Originally posted by DSKTexas
Can anyone tell me if the back inputs of the 57" Toshiba are located at the exact depth of the TV. My cabinet is 24" deep and I known the 57" is 24 inches deep. Will I have room for cables?

The input area is recessed in the back of the unit; you should have room.

For Christmas I got the LG 4200a OTA HD receiver and hooked it up last night (using RS 1880 set-top antenna). I'm so psyched because I receive what I expected: NBC, FOX, ABC, CBS, WETA (PBS), and WB. Wasn't expecting UPN (WDCA20, which is underpowered now) or WMPT (PBS), which is 40+ miles away. Just watching some of the shows last night I think Fox's 720p picture is the best of the bunch. Also, noticed that the PBS HD programming was different than the SD on the OTA channel (26).
Although Fox's picture was the best, there appeared to be a lot of overscan. Which service menu settings should I adjust to reduce the overscan?
TIA,
Eben

BTW, I never would have had the confidence to try this without all of the help and info from the members of this site: You rock!
Thanks, Eben

Hi Folks,

The service technicians just came out to look at my vertical white line issue. I tried to explain to him what knowledge I already gathered on the web, but he really wasn't interested in listening to me. He wanted to inspect the screen for burn-in as well as look at the mirror and the lenses for himself. He dismissed Toshiba's technical bulletin as it didn't mention the 65H84 (only the previous year's models). I told them before they came out that if they aren't confident in fixing this problem to not even bother, but they stated the source of the problem could be due to many factors... that they needed to see for themselves... blah.. blah...

It was not pleasant watching him and his assistant take the screens off and look inside. I kept thinking about a bead of sweat, dust, hair, etc. all getting into my TV internals. And then I wondered if they were going to assemble it together correctly. Although the technician didn't listen much, he seem knowledgeable and concluded that he could not find anything wrong with my hardware. He did admit to seeing the faint white line, though.

My advise: don't have anyone come out to look at your white line issue unless they are CONFIDENT they have a fix for it. Until Toshiba admits that there is a problem and offers a fix, this problem just serves as an exercise for technicians to take apart and assemble TV covers. My only comfort in all this is that Toshiba is going to get a $30 service bill from this company. Had Toshiba had the courage and ethics to admit to this problem, it could have saved everyone some time, hassle, and money.

Note, my TV still looks great...thus far. White line issue is tolerable.



David

Wow, I can't believe I'm crossing my fingers after buying a brand new TV. Really sucks to be in that position. I guess we put ourselves there when we make the decision to buy AFTER we know about the white line. I know not everyone knows beforehand, but I did.

I knew about the white line before I bought it. I even went to different stores and looked at their display models. For me, it really isn't a big deal. I watched a couple of movies last night and only noticed it a couple of times. I don't watch any sports so I can't comment on how this line looks for sports, but for movies and general television, I don't notice it much. I think bangforthebuck experienced what I would fear. Someone coming over and just take the tv apart and not really know what to do.

Anyways, if anyone is looking at buying a Tosh, I would suggest going to a store and spend some quality time in front of one. See if the line bothers you. It really is not as bad as you might think after reading all the posts about it. For me, the picture quality of the set is fantastic, even with the faint line that only shows up once in a while. I looked at LCD and DLPs too and they had noticeable problems inherent with their technology (screen door, pixelation etc). I still think the Tosh CRT has the best picture. But, picture quality is certainly a personal and subjective issue in itself.

has anyone had trouble with their hdmi port on the 46h84, i just hooked sony dvpns975v to mine and i'm getting intermittent disconnects from the hdmi signal =\

I just ordered the 46H84. After more than a week of trying to figure out where my WT-42313 is in the warehouse it was concluded it is not there and Im screwed. Oh well, 4 more inches for 50 dollars not too bad of a deal. Anyway after reading this thread tonight, the white line issue apparently still in the sets after reading about it last year. Little afraid of it, but I'll deal with it, like one of the other guys that posted before with the techs sweating inside the set no thanks lol. The set comes in tuesday, and comcast comes out wednesday. I'll probably stab at the SM to turn down the red push, as I noticed this on almost all tosh's RP, it doesnt make the PQ bad, just a little weird. No big deal. So do the majority of people see the white line?
Im starting to babble, ill stop just a little mad with the order problems..
BTW nathkenn, I'll be using the hdmi for my hi-def box so I'll see if it goes on and off.

Got a 57H84 and yep, I see the white line. Hard to miss once you see it for the first time. But it doesn't drive me insane, I can definately live with it. Other than that, I love the set. DVDs look great as does HD. I guess the idea of some guy dripping sweat into my TV doesn't thrill me either. Ugh, reminds me of this waiter I saw dripping sweat into our salads at our rehearsal dinner. Sick!

Agh crime, thanx for the nice picture... J/K Im glad you like the set, also a little relieved that you can live with the white line, I guess I wont know til I get the set. Cant wait to plug in the new top gon dvd, god the dts on that dvd is just awesome. I remember watching the vhs of that movie over and over again untill it died from wear. Anyway I really blame this thread for getting me excited, Im almost glad I had that order problem, just a couple more days, only waited 18 months whats another 3 or 4 days. I played with the 46 in the store, didnt even notice the red too much. Calibrated it by eye and afterwards really looked sharp, Im really excited. Everything is setup, the speaker stands I made, cords almost all wrapped up, goodbye 13" hello 46"

SSJLaletas, I talked with you in another thread a long time ago early on in your search for a set. I know you really wanted the 42315 but you were having trouble finding it. I've only seen it at Ultimate Electronics. I was over in the gallery earlier and saw your set-up awaiting the set. Are you going to use the same stand for the Tosh that is in your pic? You might find that it's a bit high depending on where or how high your sitting. I've got pics in the gallery of my 46H83 set-up. search pittdog1. Good luck and let us know how you like it.

Pittdog thanks for responding. The stand in my gallery that I put together is 21" tall, and I fabricated the speaker stands at the same height so unfortunately it is too late to change. With the mitsu I dont think it would have too high. Im a little concerned with the 46h84 now of course. I didnt plan on getting the set, and so from last night was really dissapointed with "downgrading" so to speak. However since reading this thread and of course talking with you Im probably more excited than ever, Im about to hit my BB store with a calibration disc and going to get a preview of what I should expect. Anyway back to the stand Im roughly at 6 feet away, and I'll be sitting on my bed which is 24" high, when sitting my eye level is 25- 30 inches pending on my slouch :). so that 50 - 55 inches high. So im not sure if it will be too high or not, I am definitely concerned about it, but there is really nothing I can do unfortunately. Ive seen your pics many times so far, also just noticing last night your center speaker is it on rubber feet as I remember? I am a little wary of my center speaker, Ive seen the area on top of the 46h84 and it looks like if I put the center on there it will point up, so will I need feet too lol?

Im back from the store. After getting a dvd play connected I did a real quick calibration as it was busy and could not do everything I wanted. It turned out better than I thought it would look in the store. Very very impressed, Im more excited than ever, jesus, Im almost glad that the order had problems because I wouldnt have ever really considered this set. There was zero red push, perfect color balance, very sharp. Woo hoo, lol Im like a little child again, wish tuesday would come sooner. Also pittdog check your pm i gave to you last night. regarding the sm convergence, you can just post it here.

I'll check that PM out. When i was looking a year ago i knew i wanted a tabletop model. I really thought that the 46H83 was much better than the Mits 42313. I played with them both a bunch and just could not get the Mits to my liking. That being said, i almost chose the 48413 Mits over both of them, but not being a tabletop model was the deciding factor. There was quite a bit of difference between the 48413 and 42313. I could never really find a 42413. I believe these model #'s are correct, and i understand that the 413's had some additional technology for better sd viewing among other things such as quad field focus etc. I even got into a heated arguement of sorts with another member here about these sets. We have since settled our differences and all is well in the world again. I'll check out your PM now and respond shortly.

P.S. it will be kind of cool to see somebody elses 46H series set in the gallery. There are no others that i'm aware of.

My situation is almost identical to you pittdog, kinda funny. Although for some reason I simply liked the mits better than the tosh for some reason. Ever since then I didnt give the tosh a second thought. THen of course I was forced to make a decision on another tv for my order is all screwed up. But again this is for the best because the PQ blew me away. Ill have plenty of pictures to come on tuesday and wednesday when comcast comes. Very exciting, especially because this is my first hd set. I looked though the RP gallery to see other 46h83/84 but to no avail, except of course yours. All worked out for the best. I'll probably pming you later on for help in the sm. Of course other than the things we discussd, anything minor that should be concerned?>

Had another problem pop up. I went into the service menu and lowered the RCUT as was suggested and the picture looked great.

Then last night I was watching 'Swingers' and everyone once in a while the screen would flash red for about 3/4 of a second. Then it one scene it went real red for a few seconds.

I tried another disk, 'Alias' season 1 and the picture looked fine when there was something on, but when the screen was black, it has a slight reddish hue. I tried using different cables and a different player and still saw the reddish haze.

I switched back to my regular player an things seem to be alright now, but I still get the brief red flashes every once in a while on all inputs.

Should I have a tech come out?

Get a tech out there fred, its been happening too often for you not to get a guy out there. BTW tuesday is the day woo hoo!

FredHD, One word of caution. If your set is still under warranty and they see you've been in the service menu, then the warranty will be void. If you call them out to look at your set, i wouldn't condone lying to them, but i probably would not offer the info about being in the SM either. Good Luck.

Originally posted by pittdog1
FredHD, One word of caution. If your set is still under warranty and they see you've been in the service menu, then the warranty will be void. If you call them out to look at your set, i wouldn't condone lying to them, but i probably would not offer the info about being in the SM either. Good Luck.
Why are all these suggestions being made to enter the service menu if it voids the warranty? Is there a way for a tech to tell if you've been there? I'm very interested in these sets but was hoping to do some of the less complicated adjustments in the SM.

BTW, I'm most interested in the 65". Does anyone who has a 65" think it's just too much? I'm thinking if I go with the 57" I'll always wonder if I should have gone bigger. (I'll sit about 11' from it)
Also, has the weight/bulk of these bigger sets been a real problem for anyone? Is it relatively easy to get the thing pulled out a little to access the connections?
(I'll have it in a wall unit)
Thanks!:)

atye, I have the 65h84 and sit about 12 feet away. I would not have gone any smaller. Watching movies is just amazing on it. I also watch 4:3 TV on it with stretch mode 1 and it is absolutely fine. I also had considered the 57 incher, but am very glad that I went with the 65.

BTW, the picture quality is just great on this unit.

Thanks!

Well after reading about 10 pages of the thread I started realizing how much I'm missing out on my TV. With that said I have a few questions...again I only read about half the thread so sorry for asking any questions already answered. Now as far as calibrating goes. All I've done since I got the TV earlier last month is do a auto-focus on it, and I used the THX Optimizer on Pirates of Carribean. So where should I go from here? Do i do the manual convergence or just jump right into service mode and the 56 pt. And how do I access the service mode on the 46H84. And about the calibration discs. Which is the best. I heard mostly DV Essentials and Avia.

For my signal i have Dish SD Programming on the 510 PVR box hooked up with s-video. I have a older Sony DVD Progressive Player running component to the TV as well as an XBOX with the HD component kit.

Lastly, I didn't come across too many comments regarding displaying PC on the TV. Have any of you done this and if so what way worked best for you. I also heard something about using the program PowerStrip to handle Overscan.

And also if there are any particular TV settings that are essential to have, color settings and all that. Thanks for the help everyone

From what I have read of other folks problems, most instructions are bogus....

SPDJ,
I would definitely suggest getting a calibration disc such as DVE, AVIA, plus many more, I have one from BB called learning place, its made by sound & vision and AVIA. As far as the sevice menu convergence pittdog recommends (He has the 46) to do a manual convergence at first then 2 months down the road once the tubes have finally settled and moved to their resting spots then to proceed to do a sm convergence that is of course if you feel up to it, because it does technically void warranty. I get my tv on tuesday I'll then post my setting to what I thinkn is good after calibration. Also I am planning to hook up my HTPC to it via hdmi, but that will be in a month or so, so I am not sure If I will need to fiddle with powerstrip or just use radeon's software, well see how that goes. So if you need any help with that feel free.

Originally posted by atye
Why are all these suggestions being made to enter the service menu if it voids the warranty? Is there a way for a tech to tell if you've been there? I'm very interested in these sets but was hoping to do some of the less complicated adjustments in the SM.

The reason that all the suggetions are being made to do some adjustments in the SM are so that we don't have to settle for the picture the mfg wants us to see. The chances of geting a tech out to your house and figuring out that you've been in the service manual is slim at best. However, if you've done a ton of SM adjustments and the tech goes in to the SM he could figure it out i suppose. What i was saying is that i would not volunteer the info to the tech about being in there. If done very carefully and taking your time, the SM is afe to use. In FredHD's case, he probably didn't do anything wrong and something totally unrelated to what he did in the SM is the cause for the Red flashing. If there is a bad part or board or connection , the tech will probably find it without even going in the SM. Just me, but if the tech asked me about SM adjustments, i would pead ignorance. In case some people don't know, i believe an ISF calibration voids most warranties as well. The mfg's just don't want us messing with our sets. ;)

Originally posted by pittdog1
In case some people don't know, i believe an ISF calibration voids most warranties as well. The mfg's just don't want us messing with our sets. ;) Now that WOULD be interesting to find out! Knowing me, it would be impossible to imagine leaving it alone or JUST doing user menu tweaks. I just can't leave well enough alone!:p

"atye", I sit about 10' away from mine and still wish it was bigger. Like I said to the store's rep: "I'm going big or I'm going home!"

65 at 10 feet away? Sweet! When not watching your hd, and dvds, how is your sd at that distance?

"atye" I've had the 65" for about a week now and I sit 11' feet away... At first I was like wow... maybe I went a little big, but I got used to it very quickly. If I had bought the 57" instead I would've kicked myself and wished I had gone for the 65"... I loved the looks of my neighbors as it was coming out of the truck... Priceless. HD looks amazing.... DVDs look great, even SD looks good.

As long as you're not taking it up a flight of stairs (like I did in the box!) it's very easy to move around... It's got rollers and the lifting handles on the side make very easy to lift.

Venice same question as above.

SD is allright, I can live with it. The upconversion works wonders with SD.

I was over at a friends house the other day and was watching hockey on his 33'' Sony wega in SD and it looked terrible to me. Very grainy and the line structure was very visible. But on the Toshiba the SD was very smooth to say the least.

I haven't tried the Hi-Def signal yet as I'm waiting for the Star Choice HD/DVR receiver to be released. But my buddy just picked up a HD STB for SC that I'm going to bring over and see how it looks.

Thanks guys. It's got rollers? Sweet!!:D

BTW, did any of you get your H from an online retailer? What was your experience?

I'm also getting a new DVD player when I (eventually) get this set. I really want a carousel changer. What's your player?

I'm using the Harmon Kardon DVD-22, it's not a changer though, didn't need one. I've enjoyed it, heard great reviews on it. I'm not a major freak though on picture, but I was watching Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom last weekend and I thought the picture looked fantastic. I've had no complaints about the player with the TV. Of course I would like to someday soon get a hold of a DVD player with HDMI and take advantage of the TV's HDMI. I'm too lazy to move the TV and look in the back and see if there is a coaxial audio out on the TV. Anyone know without looking?

Originally posted by CrimeDawg
I'm too lazy to move the TV and look in the back and see if there is a coaxial audio out on the TV. Anyone know without looking?

No, according to the manual (pdf from Toshiba.com).

Originally posted by atye
BTW, did any of you get your H from an online retailer? What was your experience?

Got mine from OneCall.com I've had great experiences with them over the years... They price matched Amazon.com... With shipping and an additional two year warranty it came out to about $1975. It was a great deal and the set arrived FEDex Freight in 3 days!

Originally posted by atye
I'm also getting a new DVD player when I (eventually) get this set. I really want a carousel changer. What's your player?

I'm using 3 Sony 400 DVD changers going through a Zektor switcher... Great thing is you can set 3 different remote codes with the Sony unit. I have the picture output at 480p and the TV set to 540p conversion, not 1080i... The picture looks great! But for some reason if I have the set upconvert it to 1080i the pic gets really soft... I keep it at 540p.

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Venice same question as above.

If you're asking about the SD my HD Tivo upvconverts everything to 1080i before hitting the set and pic looks great... I threw a videotape in the other night and it was Ok, but you can tell the difference.

I just got my set a couple hours ago. So far my expectations were blown away. SD is better than initial thoughts. After two visits to the calibration disc PQ is great. Using full mode because I hate 4:3 mode. DVD's are great, Finding Nemo is expceptional, Top Gun Special Edition has some grain, but I assume because it is old, however it was only after one calibration. Very very happy so far. Its just going to get better. HD comcast comes tomorow.

BTW my dvd player is a panasonic DVD-S47. ITs on progressive scan to 540p, 1080i looses some detail IMO. I'll post more once I get more play out of it. Pictures will come tonight as well.

I posted a couple pictures of my setup in my gallery if you get bored take a look.

I read earlier on on this thread that DVDs looked better in 540p, so that's how I've been watching them. Though I wonder if the picture would look better with a DVD that upscaled to 1081i and didn't use the TV's upscaling. The Tosh DVD player with HDMI is supposed to upconvert. Anyone seen that one in action?

And what is the point in having HDMI on your TV if you don't have a digital audio out? So you have your digital audio signal going in to the TV to do what with it? You're not going to get DTS or Dolby out of the TV speaker! I read that most HDMI TVs had an audio out so can split that off from the TV to the receiver. Oh well, I guess you can still run the coaxial out from the source to the receiver and get the HDMI video quality.

When I connect my HTPC via hdmi to the set which I wont be doing soon, maybe a month it will serve as my upscaling dvd. We'll see how that turns out. As far as HDMI, its pretty much redudant when you have a audio system, it serves no purpose. Well at least not yet, with maybe hdmi switches in receivers we might see some use of it later on. When comcast comes out tomorow I'll be using hdmi for it temporarily, maybe even do a test with component.

Originally posted by VeniceDre
Got mine from OneCall.com I've had great experiences with them over the years... They price matched Amazon.com... With shipping and an additional two year warranty it came out to about $1975. It was a great deal and the set arrived FEDex Freight in 3 days!
I was looking at them for the 65". The free shipping is a great deal, and the warranty is alot less than others I've seen. (not sure it's any good, though) They are one of the only online retailers Toshiba lists as an authorized dealer.
3 Days?!?! Really?!?!:eek:

Originally posted by atye
3 Days?!?! Really?!?!:eek:

Ordered on Sunday 12/19, shipped Monday, arrived at FedEX Freight warehouse on Wednesday 12/22... I could have had it delivered Thursday but I didn't schedule delivery until the Monday after Christmas... just too much going on.

I have been reading some reports on HDMI, and one review of the Tosh H series actually saw picture improvement with HDMI. I guess it makes sense that HDMI should be an improvement picture-wise because the signal isn't split up, it stays digitally intact the whole time. At the same time, I wouldn't mind getting a cable box with HDMI either so I can get some Dolby going. Do they make digital audio out splitters?

Originally posted by CrimeDawg
I have been reading some reports on HDMI, and one review of the Tosh H series actually saw picture improvement with HDMI. I guess it makes sense that HDMI should be an improvement picture-wise because the signal isn't split up, it stays digitally intact the whole time. At the same time, I wouldn't mind getting a cable box with HDMI either so I can get some Dolby going. Do they make digital audio out splitters?

Well, actually our sets are analog. All CRT's are. If you use component from the box to your set then the box is converting the pic to analog. If you use HDMI/DVI then the set has to do the Digital to Analog conversion. I have the 46H83 and have had 2 different boxes(HD). One looked better running DVI to the set than component. The one i have now does not have DVI activated yet but the component out looks much better than the previous box and as good as the DVI on the previous box. Try it both ways and see if there is a difference. I think the box itself is a bigger player than our sets in what will look better.

Can anyone tell me where these sets are made? I've read all 24 pages and couldn't find the answer, and the only retail store near me that carries these has them so that you can't look at the back of the sets. One salesman told me they were made in Japan, another said Mexico, and a third told me they were manufactured in the US. Can someone look on the back of their set and tell me?

My 65H84 says "Assembled in USA" on the back.

Thanks Seadragon. I didn't think they were made in Japan, and if it were made in Mexico I'd run very fast from it (Sony made in Mexico experience was not a good one). My 57" Toshiba RPTV was assembled in the USA, so I thought the same of these. Now the only thing is to decide what size and where to get it. I may have to drive a few hours to a big city to find a dealer since we only have Best Buy and Walmart in these parts.

A few questions about the 65H84:

1 - When I get a completely black screen I get a small amount of red tint along the right and left far edges. Is this what is refered to as the "red push"?

2 - What are the colour temperature figures for each setting in the menu ie: cool, medium, and warm? Or, do these figures vary between individual TV's?

3 - Which colour temp setting is closest to the d6500?

4 - Is there any way to assign specific picture settings and sizes to specific inputs?

Originally posted by Swederic
A few questions about the 65H84:

1 - When I get a completely black screen I get a small amount of red tint along the right and left far edges. Is this what is refered to as the "red push"?

2 - What are the colour temperature figures for each setting in the menu ie: cool, medium, and warm? Or, do these figures vary between individual TV's?

3 - Which colour temp setting is closest to the d6500?

4 - Is there any way to assign specific picture settings and sizes to specific inputs?

1. If you read farther back in this thread you'll see info on how to adjust this in the Service Menu (search this thread for "RCUT").

2. The color setting is adjustable (cool, medium, warm) for each input through the on-screen menu.

3. Not sure, but I use medium.

4. Many settings are input specific; however, the pic size is not.

Hey everybody been a long time user of the 65H84, I still remember starting the first thread, but good to see that their are many more owners of the H84. Few quick questions. I noticed a while back that people who were using Motorola HD box with DVI-HDMI connection are having some problems with the picutre moving to the right to much. Did people confirm this and is it specfic to just HDMI. If so any suggestons how to deal with it. I personally have noticed it a few times, on analog channels (picture is moved to the right, with gap of black near 1-2 inches)

Second questions about a while back some magazine compared the H84 to the new Hitachi CRT projection, just wondering if anyone knew what the results were.

What are the colour temperature figures for each setting in the menu ie: cool, medium, and warm? Or, do these figures vary between individual TV's?

According to the Toshiba website, the warm setting is closest to 6,500.

Originally posted by rileybrody
According to the Toshiba website, the warm setting is closest to 6,500.

That is how it should be. However, on the H83 series sets mine and most people i've talked to that own them find that medium is the closest to nuetral grey using the grey scale ramps on DVE. I haven't confirmed this with H84's as i don't own one, but you guys that own the H84's could check and see and report back with your findings. I heard somewhere on this forum that the H83's and H84's (in the 46" model anyway) don't use the same guns. So i don't know what that would do as far as differences in the 2 series color Temps. Just put in a calibration disc with the grey bar patterns and see what looks most nuetral grey. Unless of course you have ISF equipment just lying around.:D

Almost forgot, I posted some HD screen shots of my now 1 year old Toshiba 46H83. And if anyones interested, updated pics of my audio rack with the 1014tx Pioneer. The HD pics look pretty good if i do say so myself.
Just click the gallery tab at the top of my post here. Don't be afraid to leave comments on my pics good or bad.

Here's my dilemma:

I can either get a Panasonic PT47x54 from a well reputed online dealer (47"), or get a 51" Toshiba 51H83 from tweeter, both delivered for the same price. Which should I go with?

Panny seems more highly regarded, but Tosh has a couple extra inches and a local retailer to stand behind it.

51H83 is last years model. I'm sure there are still some around new in the box though. Just make sure it's not a return or a floor model. I also like the 47X54 and it is this years model. See if you can view them both and see which you prefer. Also read the Panny thread as well as this one.

After having the tv on for about 12 hours I calibrated the tv the third and probably final time for awhile. My settings are as follows:

Contrast: 32
Brightness: 46
Color: 39
Tint: R8
Sharpness: 33
Color Temp: Medium
DNR: OFF

BTW comcast sux, the installer never showed up, I have to wait til tomorow. And also no white line, and 0 red push.

Originally posted by pittdog1
51H83 is last years model. I'm sure there are still some around new in the box though. Just make sure it's not a return or a floor model. I also like the 47X54 and it is this years model. See if you can view them both and see which you prefer. Also read the Panny thread as well as this one.

It's from tweeter so it should be new.

I have looked at them both, but in a dept. store setting, it's impossible. Best buy had the Toshiba, but it was up on a riser so I couldn't get eye level with it. Circuit City had the Panny, but it was in the middle of an isle so I couldn't get more than 3 feet away from it.

No wonder we have to rely on forums like AVS for all our review info.

I did get a good look at a 46h84 Toshiba. based on that, I'm thinking toshiba.

Originally posted by eugovector

I did get a good look at a 46h84 Toshiba. based on that, I'm thinking toshiba. [/B]


I think that me and SSJ would go along with that.:D

I can only think of one owner of these sets that got a faulty set(other than the white line issue or jailbars issue). I can't remember the poster's name but shortly after receiving his set one of the guns quit. Other than the normal little quibles with any set, there haven't really been any failures on these sets that i'm aware of.

SSJ, did you confirm on your H84 set that medium looked most nuetral grey?

And to all other owners of H84 series sets, do any of you ever see the Jail bar issue? It's different than the White line. They are fairly evenly spaced grey(very light) bars that run full height of the set about 2" s apart and about 1" or so wide. They aren't really bothersome as they rarely show up with content and seems like they are only there on HD material. Alot of people who had the H83 sets complained of them along with the white line.
I got lucky and don't have the white line, But i do have the very faint Jail bars. Just curious as to whether or not Toshiba got'em fixed seeing as how they seem to have ignored the white line fix in the H84's.:cool:

Originally posted by pittdog1
I think that me and SSJ would go along with that.:D

SSJ, did you confirm on your H84 set that medium looked most nuetral grey?

And to all other owners of H84 series sets, do any of you ever see the Jail bar issue? It's different than the White line. They are fairly evenly spaced grey(very light) bars that run full height of the set about 2" s apart and about 1" or so wide. They aren't really bothersome as they rarely show up with content and seems like they are only there on HD material. Alot of people who had the H83 sets complained of them along with the white line.
I got lucky and don't have the white line, But i do have the very faint Jail bars. Just curious as to whether or not Toshiba got'em fixed seeing as how they seem to have ignored the white line fix in the H84's.:cool:
I think it does have the most neutral color, I see several people who posted on this thread with their settings have it on warm, I simply see too much red on it, almost bothers my eyes too. If I had it my way I would have it on cool, more appealing. However it goes too much toward the blue end of the spectrum. So medium gives and takes both, being most neutral.

With the jail bars I have not seen at all so far, however one of the movies I was watching had one bar on the very very far left side, very faint, just barely darker than the rest of the picture about a 1/2 inch big, only for a couple seconds. The average viewer would not even have noticed it.

The only thing I can complain about this is the way it handles shadows, it gives like different shades of darkness in a wave around the object. Doesnt bother me, but that is the only negative, The set is wonderful, I love it, and if it wasnt for comcast I would high from tv heaven.

After reading about the red push and RCUT reductions in this excellent thread, I decided to venture into my new 46H84's service menu last night to check my default RCUT setting (I had extensive experience in tweaking my previous 27" Sony Wega's SM, so I wasn't too hesitant). It was 74H. I was a little surprised after reading that I should expect to see 90H or thereabouts. I might add that I'm not seeing an extensive red push, although there is a slight pinkish tint on the edges of the screen when I view the DVE grayscales. I thought this was probably due to the "warm" color setting, which does tend to emphasize red more than the other 2 settings. Additionally, when I set color and tint using DVE, the color bars seem right on with the blue and red filters, but nowhere near what they should look like with the green filter. Do I have green push? Or should I try "medium" color setting, as SSJ suggested previously? Any thoughts on what I should/shouldn't do?
Thanks,
Ted

Originally posted by stu benedict
After reading about the red push and RCUT reductions in this excellent thread, I decided to venture into my new 46H84's service menu last night to check my default RCUT setting (I had extensive experience in tweaking my previous 27" Sony Wega's SM, so I wasn't too hesitant). It was 74H. I was a little surprised after reading that I should expect to see 90H or thereabouts. I might add that I'm not seeing an extensive red push, although there is a slight pinkish tint on the edges of the screen when I view the DVE grayscales. I thought this was probably due to the "warm" color setting, which does tend to emphasize red more than the other 2 settings. Additionally, when I set color and tint using DVE, the color bars seem right on with the blue and red filters, but nowhere near what they should look like with the green filter. Do I have green push? Or should I try "medium" color setting, as SSJ suggested previously? Any thoughts on what I should/shouldn't do?
Thanks,
Ted
First set your color temp as medium, it is the most neutral out of the three. Then use DVE or another calibration disc and calibrate again, see where your tint ends up this time. Mine ended up at R8 moving from R5 - R10 in the beginning. I have never heard of green push on a crt set, although there is always new and weird things happening, I have only seen green push on some dlps. If you still find something wrong, up your RCUT more that will most likely solve your problem, go in steps like 5-8 clicks in the SM. Then recalibrate and go from there. It may be a long process but it should definitely work and be worth it.

And again I am using medium on my set, but I think most people are using warm. Everyone is different, I just feel its the most neutral between the two temperatures.

Does anyone have a feel for how well a Bose 321 system will work with the 46H84 as a DVD/audio system or just for the audio. In some previous research early in 2004 I was told its not the best in terms of being a DVD player.

Originally posted by Chipden
Does anyone have a feel for how well a Bose 321 system will work with the 46H84 as a DVD/audio system or just for the audio. In some previous research early in 2004 I was told its not the best in terms of being a DVD player.

It will work as well as any 2 speaker system, the screen display shouldn't have anything to do with it.

The only thing you may want to consider is your seating distance. The 46 display would mean that your seating distance would be at least 6-8 feet. If the 3D effects of the bose are not to your liking from that distance, you'll want to consider a smaller TV or a different audio system.

Thanks for your input. On other question: While looking at 40+ inch rear project set on the Sears web site, I saw a Samsung 47 (HCP4741W). Has anyone campared this to the H84? The lack of HDMI input and no pict-in pict option stand out as differences, but would be interested to hear if anyone has looked at this samsung.

I hate to down any product really but I dislkike the 321 system so much. Get a receiver and two fronts with a center, itll probably sound better, and cost you less. Anyway last time I checked on the 321 which was last year it was not progressive scan and the video output was s-video. So it is a poor piece of equipment in my opinion. Again not to down anything because I hate to do that, but this is something that I must.

As for the samsung I have not seen that specific model number, but something similiar to it was probably again a year ago, for samsung is not making many CRT RPTV anymore. In any case I think the H84 is suberb and would definitely outperform the samsung.

A few posts ago, there was a brief discussion about what level of color temperature people should set their sets to. Here's an interesting quote from "The Perfect Vision's" review of the 57H84 (with Mitsubishi comparison part cut out):

"Instead of Cool, Medium, Warm, they should have been called blue, bluer, and bluest. OK, I know that humans perceive the color of white to be whiter when the color temperature is higher (i.e., more blue), which is why those blue crystals are often found in otherwise white laundry detergent. But the Warm setting in the Toshiba measured around 7650K at 80 IRE. In other words, out of the box neither set came close to the 6500K standard, even when set to the lowest color temperature."

Of course, I know that there can be some variance among the TVs...


David

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
I hate to down any product really but I dislkike the 321 system so much. Get a receiver and two fronts with a center, itll probably sound better, and cost you less. Anyway last time I checked on the 321 which was last year it was not progressive scan and the video output was s-video. So it is a poor piece of equipment in my opinion. Again not to down anything because I hate to do that, but this is something that I must.

As for the samsung I have not seen that specific model number, but something similiar to it was probably again a year ago, for samsung is not making many CRT RPTV anymore. In any case I think the H84 is suberb and would definitely outperform the samsung.

Regarding the 321, I guess I kind of knew that. I already own it. It was a emotional buy last Christmas. When I was considering a DLP or LCD last year, I pretty much decided to buy a progressive scan DVD player with a better out put and use the 321 for audio only. Thanks for your help.

Originally posted by Chipden
Regarding the 321, I guess I kind of knew that. I already own it. It was a emotional buy last Christmas. When I was considering a DLP or LCD last year, I pretty much decided to buy a progressive scan DVD player with a better out put and use the 321 for audio only. Thanks for your help.
I didnt realize you already had the 321. In that case definitely get a good progressive scan dvd player, or as some people have done, got a upconverter. Up to you, honestly upconverter's are better for LCD, DLP, and Plasma type tv's and not really for CRT's. Pioneer makes some great dvd players, I have a decent panasonic pscan player, and I know pittdog has a yamaha dvd player. That apparently outputs a 540p signal, which is perfect for the H84's.

Originally posted by bangForTheBuck
A few posts ago, there was a brief discussion about what level of color temperature people should set their sets to. Here's an interesting quote from "The Perfect Vision's" review of the 57H84 (with Mitsubishi comparison part cut out):

"Instead of Cool, Medium, Warm, they should have been called blue, bluer, and bluest."

David

Out of the box I also found my set to very blue in the Warm setting... I reduced BCUT by 4 ticks after reducing RCUT by 6.

It seems Sony & Toshiba love the color blue. Sony sets are notorius for pushing blue.

Great thread first off...

I've read through, and ventured into the Service Menu as my picture is shifted to the right, and might have a touch too much overscan.

Anyway, I have found the HIT and WID menu entries, but not the HPOS and VPOS. I signed up over at the spot, and from what I've read, it appears those settings no longer exist for the HX83 model. Is that correct, or have they been replaced with other Service Menu settings.

I also read that if you enter the ADDR menu, you can find a setting that handles HPOS, but you need a specific type of remote I think to enter that menu.

The one I really want to change is the HPOS setting, to move the picture to the left about an inch so that it is centered.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

:confused:

Well, I just pulled the trigger on the 65H84 from OneCall. (great financing deal!!) Now I wait! I'm really anxious to get at this thing.
I think I'm going with DirectTV HD. Any thoughts?

Originally posted by atye
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the 65H84 from OneCall. (great financing deal!!) Now I wait! I'm really anxious to get at this thing.
I think I'm going with DirectTV HD. Any thoughts?
Good decision, good luckwith the set, and with getting the beast inside the house. Other than the basic tweaks and things to do once you get your set not much else to say. D* HD is a good choice. Comcasts hd lineup in my area is pretty nice, im getting about 12 or 13 hd stations out of like 17 or 18 channels I could get. However I have yet to see any on my set because of the installers incompetence, tomorow 11-2 is my third appointment and if he doesnt show up I swear to god I'll go nuts. Its not like it is hard or anything I just need the box! The install will take 2 minutes, the cords are already there on the shelf, plug in dvi, fiber optic, and power good to go! Ill calm down because it will all be worth it tomorow.... Hopefully.

Thanks, I can't wait.
Any news on your cable install?

Yea comcast guy stopped in I had to go to school right afterwards, now I have to go to work. I got to see some discovery and espn in hd. SO far its incredible. I will speak more about it tonight agfter i get back ~11pm. Also I have it hooked up through hdmi, does that cancel out full picture mode? Because it is canceled out. IF I switch to compontnet will it allow me to have it? Because with sd from the box I have 4:3 mode and I dont want that. all the other strech modes are there, but I like full the best. Ill be back!

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Also I have it hooked up through hdmi, does that cancel out full picture mode? What cable STM has HDMI output or are you running a DVI to HDMI cable?

SSJ,
My Comcast box is connected via component and it also greys out the full screen mode. The default is Natural.

Originally posted by soulflare
Yeah, I have blooming on the blue on my 46H84 - and it's slightly worse than it was on my 46H83. I've asked a few people online about the issue, along with the tech who fixed the CDL on my TV, and have been told that such blooming is normal. However, it still seems excessive to me. I'm hoping that the problem can be minimized by mechanically focusing the blue CRT.

it's also pretty excessive on my set too

You guys that are having problems with bars on sd . The problem is that your box is outputting 1080i. All stretch modes in all CRT set(as far as i know)are unavailablewhen receiving an HD signal. Even if the original signal is 480i(ie local news or other non-HD channels) the box is converting it to 1080i. The reason the stretch modes don't work is that your set thinks it's getting an HD show because it's recieving 1080i and it should all ready be widescreen if it was in fact an actual HD program. There are 2 options to cure this. 1 is if you have a pass through mode on your stb. What this means is that you can send 2 formats to your set. 1 at 1080i and 1 at 480i or 480p. This will send all HD info to your set at 1080i and all sd at 480i or 480p depending on which you choose. Somewhere in the menu on your boxes you should be able to choose the format for scan rates. Try to pick 2 and see if they both stick without losing one or the other. Alot of boxes do not have this feature though. So option #2 is to let the box do the stretch. It should be an option in the box menu as well. It will only stretch non HD material.It will leave regular HD material in wide screen without stretching it. My TW HD DVR does a pretty good job with stretching. I guess there is another option. You could run the Cable from a splitter to the antenna input on your set and then you'll receive 480 and be able to stretch at you sets leisure. Of course doing this will void out your guide and info screens for cable, but many do this to improve sd PQ. If none of this helps , then go over to the HDTV hardware forum. There are people over there who have every combination of set and cable service and box type that can surely help you guys out. Hope this helps.

Originally posted by atye
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the 65H84 from OneCall. (great financing deal!!) Now I wait! I'm really anxious to get at this thing.
I think I'm going with DirectTV HD. Any thoughts?

I live and die by the HD Tivo at the moment... I don't know what I would do without it... Yes, it's pricey $1,000.... But you can't beat it... It can record up to 200 HRS SD, 30 HRS of HD, or a combination of both... The great thing is that it also pulls in the over the air HD signals... It has 4 tuners built in (2 Directv and 2 Over the air (split internally)) So I can watch or Tivo 2 over the air HD channels at once...

DirecTV also has ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX New York & Los Angeles HD Feeds up and running now.

I think their standard HD boxes are pretty cheap at the moment also.

I've been a DirecTV customer since 1997, I would never go back to cable.

Originally posted by VeniceDre
DirecTV also has ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX New York & Los Angeles HD Feeds up and running now.
Are you saying I can get these through my satellite feed? As I understand it, local channels are not offered in HD at this time.

Unless it is somethign recent D* did not carry local stations in hd, only in sd. So you would need an off-air antenna to pick them up. Again it could have changed recently. Anyway I put the 4:3 override in the setup menu to 480p so the only things that have bar on the sides are the digital stations that arent showing hd at the moment.

HD looks absolutely phenonemal. I mean it is mesmerizing. The set does such a good job with contrast, black level, and at the same time still producing a nice bright image, even though most of my settings are 30-45 in the menu. Now dvds dont match up :(, hd looks that good. Im extremely happy with my purchase finally dealing with comcast's incomptence to getting to my house is well worth it. Just wish there was some more programming in the local stations. I caught jay leno last night for five minutes that looked surprisingly good. And of course discovery is undoubtedly the best. NBA last night was jaw dropping on ESPNHD. THe court looked like I have never seen it before, it was coming at me with shine, and the players jerseys against it looked just incredible. Not much else to say other than YES!

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Unless it is somethign recent D* did not carry local stations in hd, only in sd. So you would need an off-air antenna to pick them up. Again it could have changed recently. Anyway I put the 4:3 override in the setup menu to 480p so the only things that have bar on the sides are the digital stations that arent showing hd at the moment.

HD looks absolutely phenonemal. I mean it is mesmerizing. The set does such a good job with contrast, black level, and at the same time still producing a nice bright image, even though most of my settings are 30-45 in the menu. Now dvds dont match up :(, hd looks that good. Im extremely happy with my purchase finally dealing with comcast's incomptence to getting to my house is well worth it. Just wish there was some more programming in the local stations. I caught jay leno last night for five minutes that looked surprisingly good. And of course discovery is undoubtedly the best. NBA last night was jaw dropping on ESPNHD. THe court looked like I have never seen it before, it was coming at me with shine, and the players jerseys against it looked just incredible. Not much else to say other than YES!


Please refrain from these posts until my TV gets delivered. Thanks for your cooperation.

lol jk Can't wait! I really have no idea what to expect. I do have an HDTV but it's a 22inch Samsung LCD in my kitchen. I'm happy with it, just wondering how the 65 inch will compare. Hope I'm not let down...