Originally posted by atye
Are you saying I can get these through my satellite feed? As I understand it, local channels are not offered in HD at this time.

Local channels are not offered at this time, but the two national east/west coast feeds are live, New York & Los Angeles... I live in Los Angeles so they just turn them on... it's helpful because my over the air CBS can get sketchy in bad weather.

If you can not pull in your local HD channels ota you can apply for a waiver or something and they will give you the national feeds. Something like that, you can check out the Directv HD threads for more info. It was annouced at CES this week that they are expanding their HD lineup and will be offering HD locals in the larger markets later this year. They have two new sats lauching this spring.

Here are the current HD offerings from DirecTV:

CH. 70 HBO HD
CH. 71 Showtime HD
CH. 73 ESPN HD
CH. 74 Universal TV HD (used to be Bravo HD)
CH. 76 Discovery HD
CH. 78 HD Net Movies
CH. 79 HD Net

CH. 80 CBS HD-E
CH. 82 CBS HD-W
CH. 83 NBC HD-E
CH. 84 NBC HD-W
CH. 86 ABC HD-E
CH. 87 ABC HD-W
CH. 88 FOX HD-E
CH. 89 FOX HD-W

CH. 90-99 NFL Ticket HD and PPV Movies

Originally posted by cissado
Please refrain from these posts until my TV gets delivered. Thanks for your cooperation.

lol jk Can't wait! I really have no idea what to expect. I do have an HDTV but it's a 22inch Samsung LCD in my kitchen. I'm happy with it, just wondering how the 65 inch will compare. Hope I'm not let down...
Cissado, your going to love your set trust me. Of course let it warm up then do your calibrations, with convergence, and a calibration disk. YOU need HD on the SET!! I'll try to stop myself but jesus it looks just incredible. I get some minimal glare from the position in my room and the sun, barely effects it. Man o man, ill stop so you dont go crazy LOL. Playoffs in ten minutes everyone.

Also, I as well as pittdog1 added some photos/screenshots of my hd feed. Which again is done through dvi/hdmi. I have a basic 3.1 megapixel camera, and a bad photographer to boot, so keep that in mind. Other than that enjoy.

And the photos of our set-ups don't even do the actual sets any justice. I've still got people at my work that say there isn't any difference between HD and the great picture(HA!) that they are allready getting on there sd tv's at home right now. 2 of these losers came to my house on different days and viewed and heard my HT set-up. 2 of these now non-losers have since said "oh my god" and have had me set-up there HT's (modest like mine, but none the less classified as an HT in my book). I've got pics of one of their set-ups in my gallery and the other guy is to paranoid to let me post his pics here. I consider him still at least a semi-loser for that. Of everyone that's viewed HD and heard surround at my house they all want it. They've all been to CC, BB, UE etc. and it just didn't do it for them. But once this stuff is viewed and heard in a home environment it's"HONEY, WHERE's THE CHECKBOOK!!". I'm not bragging on my little system, it's just that awesome feeling when non-HD people come in to your house and you could stick an entire shoe in their mouth the way there jaw hangs open after they see something better than they have at home, that they thought was good enough or even great. Proudly sharing the HD experience in the sticks of KC.

Originally posted by pittdog1
And the photos of our set-ups don't even do the actual sets any justice. I've still got people at my work that say there isn't any difference between HD and the great picture(HA!) that they are allready getting on there sd tv's at home right now. 2 of these losers came to my house on different days and viewed and heard my HT set-up. 2 of these now non-losers have since said "oh my god" and have had me set-up there HT's (modest like mine, but none the less classified as an HT in my book). I've got pics of one of their set-ups in my gallery and the other guy is to paranoid to let me post his pics here. I consider him still at least a semi-loser for that. Of everyone that's viewed HD and heard surround at my house they all want it. They've all been to CC, BB, UE etc. and it just didn't do it for them. But once this stuff is viewed and heard in a home environment it's"HONEY, WHERE's THE CHECKBOOK!!". I'm not bragging on my little system, it's just that awesome feeling when non-HD people come in to your house and you could stick an entire shoe in their mouth the way there jaw hangs open after they see something better than they have at home, that they thought was good enough or even great. Proudly sharing the HD experience in the sticks of KC.
Anyone who says there isnt any difference between hd, and sd is either, A) Insane, B) Blind, C) Have not seen HD ever, D) Have I said deranged?

Anyway I only flip through my 12 hd channels now, who cares about sd anymore. BTW the one picture you have of your "non-loser" friend with the floor athena's, nice choice. Athena's sound like perfectly matches my ear, when I end up upgrading I will be buying something similar to them. Til then I will enjoy my modest sony component setup, flame if you must, but I love them. And just like I promised I wont say how good hd looked on the playoff games, or this documentary on mars mission on PBSHD. Because the detail, color, and sharpness is not comparable, it just looks so beautiful :) Hehe I bet someone is getting jittery for is 65" Sorry I apologize I am now done with that.

Good job on that post pittdog1. Only about 2.5 million oout of the 10 million or so people that have hd sets have a hd source. Really sad, only if they knew what they were missing. Thanks for the comment on the picture btw.

I need info on how to split the case of my 65H84. Can anybody help? It will be delivered in the next few days and I have to take it out of the box OUTSIDE because the box is too wide for my entry door! I've been told splitting the case would make getting it in easier, but I'd like to know how to do this beforehand. If the weather is bad I don't want my new set in it while I'm trying to figure out how to split the case.

BTW, I've checked the manual and can find no info let alone illustrations.
Thanks!:)

Originally posted by atye
I need info on how to split the case of my 65H84. Can anybody help? It will be delivered in the next few days and I have to take it out of the box OUTSIDE because the box is too wide for my entry door! I've been told splitting the case would make getting it in easier, but I'd like to know how to do this beforehand. If the weather is bad I don't want my new set in it while I'm trying to figure out how to split the case.

BTW, I've checked the manual and can find no info let alone illustrations.
Thanks!:)

First let me say this is my first post on this site, but I've read through this entire thread and I'll say it has been very informative in my research for a new set. I'm set on purchasing a Toshiba, but my only quandry is whether to get a 57" or 65"..

Well anyway, I was at Grants Appliances here in Chicago, and I inquired about the split cabinet design, and the salesman showed me 2 screws at the bottom of the screen on each side in the rear of the set.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MrBradSr2k2
[B]First let me say this is my first post on this site, but I've read through this entire thread and I'll say it has been very informative in my research for a new set. I'm set on purchasing a Toshiba, but my only quandry is whether to get a 57" or 65"..


What is your viewing distance going to be and what % is your viewing going to be(HD, SD, DVD etc.) Maybe we can help you spend your money.
:D

Originally posted by atye
I need info on how to split the case of my 65H84. Can anybody help? It will be delivered in the next few days and I have to take it out of the box OUTSIDE because the box is too wide for my entry door! I've been told splitting the case would make getting it in easier, but I'd like to know how to do this beforehand. If the weather is bad I don't want my new set in it while I'm trying to figure out how to split the case.

I still have the box... The Box is 32" at it's widest point, the base. It came through my front door with no problem... I took it out of the box in the kitchen and rolled it into my Master Bedroom by just removing the door. The Master's doorframe was only 28" wide. Check your entry doorframe width. Mine is a pretty standard as is 35" wide. If it's a little smaller you might be able to get away with just removing the door temporarliy.

Originally posted by pittdog1
[QUOTE]Originally posted by MrBradSr2k2
[B]First let me say this is my first post on this site, but I've read through this entire thread and I'll say it has been very informative in my research for a new set. I'm set on purchasing a Toshiba, but my only quandry is whether to get a 57" or 65"..


What is your viewing distance going to be and what % is your viewing going to be(HD, SD, DVD etc.) Maybe we can help you spend your money.
:D


The set will be used for HD, DVD & videogaming.. I currently sit about 9-11ft from a 53" Sony Hi-Scan which is cool.. in my room I will be able to move back further about 3-4 feet once I get rid of my sectional and get a regular loveseat or sofa.

Does the bottom part of the case have anything besides speakers in it?

IOW, can they be kept seperate?

Originally posted by MrBradSr2k2
The set will be used for HD, DVD & videogaming.. I currently sit about 9-11ft from a 53" Sony Hi-Scan which is cool.. in my room I will be able to move back further about 3-4 feet once I get rid of my sectional and get a regular loveseat or sofa.

9 to 11 feet would be perfect for 57". If you are for sure going to move back a little ,11' plus, then the 65" will be the one to get. Even at 11' you'd probably be cool with the bigger set. Write the check now and enjoy the set!:D

Originally posted by pittdog1
9 to 11 feet would be perfect for 57". If you are for sure going to move back a little ,11' plus, then the 65" will be the one to get. Even at 11' you'd probably be cool with the bigger set. Write the check now and enjoy the set!:D
I agree.

Originally posted by VeniceDre
I still have the box... The Box is 32" at it's widest point, the base. It came through my front door with no problem... I took it out of the box in the kitchen and rolled it into my Master Bedroom by just removing the door. The Master's doorframe was only 28" wide. Check your entry doorframe width. Mine is a pretty standard as is 35" wide. If it's a little smaller you might be able to get away with just removing the door temporarliy.

I live in an old farmhouse. It's really nicely updated, but has the original entry door. It's only 30" wide, so I have to take the set out of the box outside. I'm just wondering if splitting the case will make it SIGNIFICANTLY easier to get in the door. I'm trying to figure out some type of ramp to get it up 4 steps into the house. I'm told it's going to be next to impossible for 2 people to lift the set that high.

For two people, almost impossible, forget about it. Although I do not know how to split it into two, I would suggest making a strong 2x4 frame, with plywood on top for four stairs in the front. That way all you gotta do is push. Just be careful, then enjoy

Originally posted by atye
I live in an old farmhouse. It's really nicely updated, but has the original entry door. It's only 30" wide, so I have to take the set out of the box outside. I'm just wondering if splitting the case will make it SIGNIFICANTLY easier to get in the door. I'm trying to figure out some type of ramp to get it up 4 steps into the house. I'm told it's going to be next to impossible for 2 people to lift the set that high.

Two people got it up 16 steps to my second floor aparment in the box before taking it out in the kitchen... Was it hard, yes, since the packaging adds another 40 lbs and it was a narrow staircase.... Once in the bedroom I lifted one end 6" inches off the ground using the recessed handles then walked it across the platform I had built to raise the unit with no problems.

Will it be difficult, maybe, it all depends on the strength of the people lifting... but taking it out the box will lessen the load... Since it's only four steps it won't get to an incredible angle like we had to deal with... I would recommend having a third person spot on the back end and taking it a step at a time like we did going up the sixteen steps. Just be slow and careful... I don't think taking it apart would really help unless you needed to get it around some corners or the corner in a staircase.... Most of the weight is in the bottom and the built in handles are in the top portion so you would have to squat and lift from the bottom if you did take it apart.

That helps alot! Thanks.

Originally posted by pittdog1
9 to 11 feet would be perfect for 57". If you are for sure going to move back a little ,11' plus, then the 65" will be the one to get. Even at 11' you'd probably be cool with the bigger set. Write the check now and enjoy the set!:D


Pittdog, the good thing is I won't have to spend any of my own funds. with the sale of my current equipment.

inregards to the insides of the split cabinet, the salesman at Grants told me that the top part is pretty much empty and is just a screen and the bottom part has all the important stuff.

Originally posted by nathkenn
has anyone had trouble with their hdmi port on the 46h84, i just hooked sony dvpns975v to mine and i'm getting intermittent disconnects from the hdmi signal =\

I also just tried connecting a panasonic s97s and I still get disconnects from hdmi. Also tried 3 hdmi cables and all the settings on the players. Toshiba doesnt seem to be any help at all

Originally posted by nathkenn
I also just tried connecting a panasonic s97s and I still get disconnects from hdmi. Also tried 3 hdmi cables and all the settings on the players. Toshiba doesnt seem to be any help at all
I've posted previously that I have not been able to get a SA8300HD DVR with HDMI out to work with the DVI in on my 57H83.

Time Warner says it is Toshiba's issue and Toshiba says it is Time Warner's.

HDMI from my motorola hd box works just fine. Sometimes getting the initial "handshake" may require turning on or off the setup box but thats it. Never one dropout.

Didn't see a thread for the H93 models, so I'm asking here. I have a 51H93.

Anyone experience red noise in dark areas of HD broadcast over the DVI connection? I have had two different STBs (one comcast HD/DVR and RCA DTC210) and both exhibit this behavoir. Very distracting during dark scenes.

Well, the moment of truth is about here! I have one more question before I take delivery of the 65H84 tomorrow morning.
OneCall tells me I shouldn't power on the set for SIX HOURS after I get it in the house in order to allow it to acclimate to the indoor temp. I would imagine it's sitting on a truck right now, and overnight it will be near zero to below zero. So who has an opinion about the six hour wait?

Definately wait, unless you like blowing up TVs. I toasted a 19" this way. Condensation will form making circuit boards wet. Adding electricity=bad idea.

Thanks for this thread guys, helped my decision a lot.

My 65H84 will be delivered a week from today. I just bought a house, and really the only thing I'm looking forward to is firing up the TV :)

My question is, can anybody send me some good pics of the base of the unit? I'm building a short stand to put my equipment in, and I want to match the finish of the TV as much as possible. I have all the dimensions and a good template of the bottom of the unit... what I mainly need are a few good shots of the mesh in front so I can pick up something close in color/style. But any shots of the front/sides would be much appreciated :)

TIA! Email schiff at mccgp.com

Originally posted by atye
Well, the moment of truth is about here! I have one more question before I take delivery of the 65H84 tomorrow morning.
OneCall tells me I shouldn't power on the set for SIX HOURS after I get it in the house in order to allow it to acclimate to the indoor temp. I would imagine it's sitting on a truck right now, and overnight it will be near zero to below zero. So who has an opinion about the six hour wait?
Definitly wait til plugging in anything to the tv. I waited 45 minutes but my tv was not out in the cold for long. Now I am not sure about 6 hours, but I would suggest at least 2.

By the way, they told me 2 hrs. on my set. It was delivered January last year in the snow. It wasn't 0 but it wasn't melting the snow either. My driveway is fairly steep and gravel. They couldn't get the truck up the driveway so they carried it up the driveway by hand(46")about 100'. Tipped'em 20 bucks, and gave'em both a cold pop. It was a nerve racking 100' for them and me! By the way i told SSJL that i found a story about the 540p and how it has improved over earlier sets that didn't do it very well but i couldn't find it . Now i found it and i'll post the link here for you guys. It's from keohi hdtv. They have alot of tweaks and tips overthere for our sets and the 540p article was written by MichaelTLV who is an ISF tech who frequents this forum and is very knowledgeable. Here's the link.
http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/toshiba/miscellaneous/540p_michaeltlv_jun03_1.html

Hey guys,
I have been lurking here for a while, and all the info provided has helped me to make my decision. I am taking delivery of a 57h84 on Saturday. I have a couple of questions, though. I will be using the Dish network 811 HD receiver. Is there a consensus on the best connection between this and the TV? Also, my wife is a little concerned with SD viewing on here. How much will the stretch mode "squash"(her word) the picture. Thanks in advance for the responses and for the information already used extensively by yours truly!

I have no complaints with SD at all on my 57H84. Neither does my wife. I don't even notice any difference. I basically watch all SD in Full mode, and it seems perfect. Even the PQ of the SD isn't bad at all.

FUll mode will lose a fair bit of image due to cropping.
Try Theater wide 1 for SD veiwing.
Anamorphic DVD's always use FULL

HD will size automatically, it is non user adjustable.

Thanks for the quick replies. I will show them to my wife as well. We weren't able to actually view this size as no one around here had it in stock. We did see the 51 and the 65 in action though and were very impressed, of course, they only had HD feeds to show. We will only be able to sit about 9 feet away and I thought the 65 might be a bit overwhelming, so I am hoping the 57 is just right. The only thing now is the wait!!! This will be a serious upgrade from my Sony 27"!!!

My 65H84 has arrived! The guys who brought it did a great job. (the moving company charged me $74 for in-home though. :mad: )

I have it in place but not turned on yet. Waiting.....

I agree a 65" from 9' would be pretty big. We sit about 11' and this thing looks HUGE! I think we'll get used to it, though.:)

Waiting....

atye:

Congrats. Just about to move on a 65H84 myself, just need to get the wife's sign off. :D

Let us know what you think once you fire it up.

Good watching!

Congratulations atye. I gurantee youll enjoy it. BTW what are you connecting to it? And what do you plan on in the future. I have my 46H84 from 5-6 feet away, and when I first had it, it seemed like a 57 inch. Of course after a couple of days watching it, it got smaller, now seems just like it should as a 46. Its great though, the cable guy who I waited for three days commented on how I will be going by, I didnt make a reply because I simply wanted the box and that is it. Wait a good 2 hours then plug in your power and enjoy. again remember dont converge or calibrate til 30 mins in, because your tubes are still moving around in there. After that I calibrated mine like 2 hours after that, and have stayed that way ever since.

Thanks. I waited a little over 2 hours and hooked it up. After a few headaches with a connection I screwed up it's all working. I did a quick converge, but I canit tell if it made a difference yet. I'll let it warm up. Probably try another converg tonight. I'm getting VOOM installed Monday so for now TV is just SD, but it's not bad at all. I'm in FULL, BTW.
Why can't I get the picture settings to save? I've got a Panasonic DVD player hooked up to my Panasonic SA-XR50 receiver with component cables then component out to tv, and I have a Dishnetwork Sat box connected to S-video and S-video out to tv. I'm only using 2 inputs, but I can't seem to save my picture settings.
I adjust settings, then press arrow down until I'm at the bottom, move over to SAVE and press ENTER. What am I doing wrong?

I asked this in another, older thread also, but since this one is still well read, I thought I should ask it here also:

I see in the "what to do with my new tv" thread here:

link (http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/ToshibaTips.htm)

They recommend that you reset the user level convergence before attempting the 56 point service level. Is this correct? If so, should I not even touch the 9 point and just go straight to the 56 point so I never have to worry about getting into the Designer and ADDR menu?

Not sure which model you own, but i usually tell people to just do the user level convergence until you notice it really holding well(6-8 weeks on my set.) Then, when it starts holding really well, go ahead and do the 56pt. service menu convergence. It is fairly time consuming to do the service menu convergence the first time and you'll be pi$$ed when you spend all that time getting it perfect and then a week later it drifted a little on half of the grid lines. It won't hurt anything to do it right away, but you might be wasting your time. If you follow the directions very carefully you should be in no danger of getting into something you shouldn't. The other thread that you posted on has some good info that i and others posted with people having trouble getting in the SM. Usual warnings still apply( you can damage your set messing around in the SM, blah, blah) but just be careful and i'm sure you'll be ok. I've been in my SM several times and all is well. Don't forget, if you think you did anything wrong or something doesn't look right, hit the power button on your set and turn it back on after a couple of seconds and all should be back to normal and no longer in the SM.

I have question about this comment..."It is fairly time consuming to do the service menu convergence the first time and you'll be pi$$ed when you spend all that time getting it perfect and then a week later it drifted a little on half of the grid lines."

I'm getting my set ISF calibrated a month after I receive it. If the guy who calibrates it does this (because I don't know how) will it still "move" after a week or two? What's the point of calibrating if this will happen? and Should I learn real quick to do it before the guy shows up, so when he does do it, the adjuctments will stick?

Figured out the picture settings save. Stupid me...:)

BTW, my next purchase will be a DVD changer with HDMI input. As soon as somebady makes one!

Originally posted by cissado
I have question about this comment..."It is fairly time consuming to do the service menu convergence the first time and you'll be pi$$ed when you spend all that time getting it perfect and then a week later it drifted a little on half of the grid lines."

I'm getting my set ISF calibrated a month after I receive it. If the guy who calibrates it does this (because I don't know how) will it still "move" after a week or two? What's the point of calibrating if this will happen? and Should I learn real quick to do it before the guy shows up, so when he does do it, the adjuctments will stick?

It is always recommended on this forum to wait to have your set ISF'd until proper burn-in time has occured. I would say 8-weeks to be safe. It took that long or there abouts for my convergence to settle down. If the guy is an ISF tech and is responsible(should go hand in hand) he should know that the convergence may drift a fair amount while the set is relatively new.
You're going to have to learn to do the convergence adjustments anyway as it won't hold convergence for ever. You will need to touch it up occasionally. Hope this helps you out. And if anyone ,including some of the ISF'ers here, disagree, please chime in. Just have the tech guy show you what you need to know for convergence and all will be well.:)

Originally posted by cissado
I have question about this comment..."It is fairly time consuming to do the service menu convergence the first time and you'll be pi$$ed when you spend all that time getting it perfect and then a week later it drifted a little on half of the grid lines."

I'm getting my set ISF calibrated a month after I receive it. If the guy who calibrates it does this (because I don't know how) will it still "move" after a week or two? What's the point of calibrating if this will happen? and Should I learn real quick to do it before the guy shows up, so when he does do it, the adjuctments will stick?
Just use the hell out of your set, because I believe ISF calibrations are supposed to be done after two months. But if you just watch your set alot in a month your fine. Because of that it really shouldnt be moving because it is already "worn-in".

BTW atye, what was the problem with the save? Just curious

Thanks for that guys. I already made the appointment for the middle of February with th ISF tech. He said about 4 weeks having it on 4 hours a day. I'm sure longer would be better... I usually run it for way longer than 4 hours anyway. I could also run it more often delibrately to get it going.

The only thing he told me really was turn down the contrast and brightness to 50 or below and put it on "warm" I think...

I will learn the convergence but was wondering if I should do it a few times BEFORE he comes to help out in the adjustments moving. The way I read it was you need to do it a few times till it "sticks", or maybe that just equates to "burn in" time and it would be the same difference to wait that time period as adjusting a few times in that same time period.

Originally posted by cissado
Thanks for that guys. I already made the appointment for the middle of February with th ISF tech. He said about 4 weeks having it on 4 hours a day. I'm sure longer would be better... I usually run it for way longer than 4 hours anyway. I could also run it more often delibrately to get it going.

The only thing he told me really was turn down the contrast and brightness to 50 or below and put it on "warm" I think...

I will learn the convergence but was wondering if I should do it a few times BEFORE he comes to help out in the adjustments moving. The way I read it was you need to do it a few times till it "sticks", or maybe that just equates to "burn in" time and it would be the same difference to wait that time period as adjusting a few times in that same time period.
Excellent and of course you are right the longer the better. He gave you excellent advice in turning the both the contrast and bright to at the very least half, I would also do the same for the sharpness. I have my setting on medium, however many people who posted on this thread have it on warm, either way.

Its really not a matter of doing the convergence a couple of times til it finally sticks, its more of a matter of the crt's settling to their final spots. Throughout the use of your set for at least a month your tubes will be moving ever so slightly, with that if you had done a previous convergence you will have to do it again. So potentially you do not have to converge the set at all and wait til you get it ISF calibrated, but simply keep in mind it wont be properly converged til then.

Thanks Matt, I understand. Maybe I'll mess with it a little until the appointment. This way I'll know if I really go off course (which I doubt) it would be fixed upon professional calibration. Thanks again. Can't wait! Gotta see some football in HD on the 65 incher. lol

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
BTW atye, what was the problem with the save? Just curious
I was highlighting presets and changing them instead of PREFERENCE. As my wife would say, that's what the MANUAL is for!!:)

BTW, will the focus improve at the far edges and especially the corners as it settles in, or is this something only a calibration can cure. When I did my quick converge the corners were almost impossible to line up, and had lots of green cloud around the crosses.

I'm being really picky, though. I've been playing parts of some of my better DVDs (Empire Strikes Back, Matrix Reload, Ice Age, Bourne Ident, Chicken Run) and I'm thrilled with the results. I can see varying degrees of imperfection, but I think a proper tweaking and a better DVD player (using HDMI) will clean things up nicely. (I'm using a cheapo Panasonic DVD-S25. $79)

I will learn the convergence but was wondering if I should do it a few times BEFORE he comes to help out in the adjustments moving. The way I read it was you need to do it a few times till it "sticks", or maybe that just equates to "burn in" time and it would be the same difference to wait that time period as adjusting a few times in that same time period QUOTE by cissado.....


The part about the convergence sticking is in reference to the SM convergence. At the end of the SM convergence when you are ready to finish ,it will ask you to press touch focus. Touch focus will then run itself and try to learn your saved SM convergence. It will remeber about 95% or so the first time. A little more for the next 2 or 3 times should have it down. Then later, if you notice the convergence seems off a bit you can just hit Touch focus to get it all lined back up. Of course eventually(months or years down the road) it may drift to the point that touch focus can't straighten it out by itself and you'll have to SM converge it again.
I beleive the reason he told you to lower your brt and contr settings to 50% was 2 fold. 1 is because this will keep most chances of burn-in away from your set. And 2 , because this will lower the chances of you being disturbed by the PQ after he does the calibration. Alot of people decide they want their sets calibrated after they have watched it for months on the factory settings(high brt and high contr) and are very dissapointed in the dimmer picture after calibration. The ISF calibration picture is the correct picture and is what was intended to be seen on your set. Not to mention that the set wil last up to 50% longer by not wearing out the phosphors prematurely in one of the factory flamethrower modes. Enjoy the set and let us know what you think of the calibration!

We're watching the local news now on the 65H84 in SD, and I wouldn't begin to call it "unwatchable." It's perfectly acceptable.
I do see a pronounced edge enhancement effect. Is this caused by the SVM? It can be disabled in the service menu, right? I was looking for the area in this thread that discussed disabling it, but couldn't find it. I know you can disable it with Movie mode, but I believe it can be disabled for all inputs in SM. Anyone?

Hi: I feel like a complete dope, but I figured I'd ask anyway. I have a Toshiba 46H83. I had been running a non-progressive Toshiba DVD player to it happily. But I had to get smart and pick up a cheap Pioneer progressive-scan DVD player recently (DV-270-S). It's driving me nuts and I'm ready to return it rather than spend more time on a $70 DVD player.

I can't get a decent picture out of it. I have the DVD player set to 16:9 and progressive output through component cables. I've been running the TV on Full with both DVD players. The picture on the new DVD player is streched too far or looks like crap on every mode with all of the discs I've run so far (admittedly, mostly Netflix rentals). What else can I try on the DVD player or the TV before I send this thing back? No matter what configuration I try, even the DVD player's setup menu looks crappy: the font is pretty badly aliased, which could just be a low budget menu, but I was expecting to be wowed by even the menu.

Thanks

Bump:
Nobody has any ideas on this? This red noise/speckles are driving me nuts when I watch D* through my DVI. I'd hate to switch back to component just to get rid of this. Isn't DVI is supposed to be the best connection?
I've tried a couple different cables with no improvment, but I haven't tried a high end DVI cable yet because I didn't think there was that much difference in cables. Any help appreciated.

Originally posted by billbillw
Didn't see a thread for the H93 models, so I'm asking here. I have a 51H93.

Anyone experience red noise in dark areas of HD broadcast over the DVI connection? I have had two different STBs (one comcast HD/DVR and RCA DTC210) and both exhibit this behavoir. Very distracting during dark scenes.

Originally posted by billbillw
Bump:
Nobody has any ideas on this? This red noise/speckles are driving me nuts when I watch D* through my DVI. I'd hate to switch back to component just to get rid of this. Isn't DVI is supposed to be the best connection?
I've tried a couple different cables with no improvment, but I haven't tried a high end DVI cable yet because I didn't think there was that much difference in cables. Any help appreciated.
The first thought that occured in my head is the dvi cord that you are using. You mentioned that you used a couple, you might want to consider getting at least a midrange - high end cable. Technically in a perfect world yes you wouldnt notice a damn difference. However as everyone knows all cables are not made equal. People have seen sparkles all over with their dvi, artifacts all over the place, I think I do remember a guy seeing red with his. Simply just because it is digital doesnt mean that it will come in perfect, the cable may be made bad, and may add some impurities into the signal, it happens. So definitely try getting a high grade cable. I use a AR DVI cable, with a monster DVI/HDMI converter to my tv. It works perfectly.

Originally posted by yerfatma
I can't get a decent picture out of it. I have the DVD player set to 16:9 and progressive output through component cables. I've been running the TV on Full with both DVD players. The picture on the new DVD player is streched too far or looks like crap on every mode with all of the discs I've run so far (admittedly, mostly Netflix rentals). What else can I try on the DVD player or the TV before I send this thing back? No matter what configuration I try, even the DVD player's setup menu looks crappy: the font is pretty badly aliased, which could just be a low budget menu, but I was expecting to be wowed by even the menu.

Youve got me stumped I cant think of anything off the top of my head, Pittdog feel free to chime in.

pittdog1,
I've found my way into the service menu of my H84, but how do you get to the SM convergance from there? I wasn't able to find the answer here.
Also, do you know how to defeat SVM in the SM?

After pressing mute 3X on remote and holding the 3rd mute in press menu on the set and release both buttons."S" should appear on the screen. Press the menu button on the remote and then the #7 key on the remote and you should have the grid pop up. If the grid doesn't pop up after pushing the #7 key on the remote, shut down the set with the power button on the set. That should do it. I'm off work today and tomorrow so i'll be here quite a bit today and tomorrow if you have any more questions. I'm not sure about the SVM in the SM. I believe on my set (H83) you can only do it in Movie mode or physically take the set apart and pull a wire. I'm pretty sure it can be done in the SM on the H84's though, but someone else will have to help you out there.
yerfatma, i don't really have any ideas either. Make sure you've gone into the DVD player's menu and got it right as far as 16:9 or widescreen type of set. Also try progressive and interlaced on the player and 540p and 1080i on the set itself in all combinations for the best PQ. Alot of movies out there are widescreen on one side of the disc and pan and scan (4:3) on the other or ask you to select one format or the other in the menu. Maybe the movies in question are defaulting to the 4:3 format and are being stretched by the player ot the set. Try it out.

Is it worth taking apart the TV to physically disable SVM?

Thanks pittdog. I stayed up WAY too late last night enjoying the glow of new big screen ownership! In a darkened room the experience was mindboggling.
As long as you're answering questions..:p
Is there a way for ordinary consumers to reliably and safely adjust things like color temp and greyscale on these sets? I've seen reference to RCUT and the like, but I've seen advice elsewhere saying don't touch these settings unless you know the proper steps to apply in conjuction with a change of this sort.
Also, I THINK I noticed a smoother, more natural image with my DVD player's progressive mode disabled, and the TV set to 540P, versus progressive enabled. (may have just been my imagination, though) Any thoughts?

The only way to properly set grey scale/color temp is with tools not really at our disposal(ie color analyzer, etc.) and the training required to operate these tools. For me, i used DVE with the grey ramp pattern and only used the 3 color temp presets given in the user menu and found medium to be as close to neutral grey as i could see by eye. It does look very neutral to my eye. As far as the DVD signal goes, my player is a Yamaha progressive scan non up converting player. I have read reviews of it online and it is a very good not very expensive player. It was tested to pass the full 540 lines that DVD is capable of producing. Obviously DVD's only show 480 but they are capapble of resolving 540. My player looks better in progressive with the set at 540p. I tried it all ways. The easiest way to see what your player is doing is to put up a test pattern on DVE that has luts of cross hatches and boxes with lines and such in it. Then cycle through all the settings in the player and set to see which combo gives the least amount of artifacting in those area on the pattern with fine detail. It wasn't a huge difference, but it was visible with the test pattern.

eugovector, you don't need to do this. What set do you have? If you have an H83 set make your settings in MOVIE mode for every input that you want SVM disabled to and it will remeber separate settings for each input. It is proven(at least on the H83 sets) that movie mode does in fact completely remove SVM from the picture.

With the H84, whenever I set it to MOVIE, I can't adjust any settings or it automatically puts me back in PREFERENCE. I like the fact that MOVIE disables SVM, but the BRT, CONTR, and COLOR are all too high in the preset. Am I missing something? Is there a way to SAVE a PREFERENCE based on the MOVIE preset, while changing settings within it?

51h83, just arrived at 12:30, then I had to go back to work. It's still in the box, need to find a neighbor to help me get that bad boy out of there.

Originally posted by atye
With the H84, whenever I set it to MOVIE, I can't adjust any settings or it automatically puts me back in PREFERENCE. I like the fact that MOVIE disables SVM, but the BRT, CONTR, and COLOR are all too high in the preset. Am I missing something? Is there a way to SAVE a PREFERENCE based on the MOVIE preset, while changing settings within it?
To my knowledge unfortunately no. With the H84 you can simply only make your own settings, even as simple and as small as the svm, only in the preference mode and needs to be saved. So.....yea.

Originally posted by atye
With the H84, whenever I set it to MOVIE, I can't adjust any settings or it automatically puts me back in PREFERENCE. I like the fact that MOVIE disables SVM, but the BRT, CONTR, and COLOR are all too high in the preset. Am I missing something? Is there a way to SAVE a PREFERENCE based on the MOVIE preset, while changing settings within it?

This is correct. When you make settings in MOVIE mode it will change to preference and hold the settings including removal of SVM. It still leaves MOVIE mode there as a preset in case you would want to use it. You can do this on every input and it will hold your preference setting separately for all of them. All is good. Preference is what you want it to say.:D

Hi, I recently purchased a 51H84 and I have been lurking on this site for an answer to my question, but can't seem to find it. I have an ATI 8500 Radeon card on my PC with a DVI output. I was wondering if anyone has attempted to connect a DVI video card via a DVI-HDMI converter cable into an H84. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Originally posted by pittdog1
This is correct. When you make settings in MOVIE mode it will change to preference and hold the settings including removal of SVM. It still leaves MOVIE mode there as a preset in case you would want to use it. You can do this on every input and it will hold your preference setting separately for all of them. All is good. Preference is what you want it to say.:D
I know this seem ridiculous, but I need to ask. You're saying if I'm in MOVIE, when I start to tweak it KEEPS the SVM off, even when I save it? So then when I select PREFERENCE again, SVM STAYS off?

Originally posted by bergie01
Hi, I recently purchased a 51H84 and I have been lurking on this site for an answer to my question, but can't seem to find it. I have an ATI 8500 Radeon card on my PC with a DVI output. I was wondering if anyone has attempted to connect a DVI video card via a DVI-HDMI converter cable into an H84. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I wish I could answer your question personally however I cannot at least not yet. I am planning to connect my 46H84 to my HTPC through HDMI, probably using 9550 radeon card. However I am planning to do that in the next month not now. Im sorry, however I did some small research before I got the tv to give myself a headsup. I found these two threads for you, I even PM'ed a guy named highdef for a little help because he as a very similiar setup with his HTPC, and he got his working. However he has not be online for awhile, but here are the two threads do what you can with them. Maybe in a less than a month I can help you more.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4729711#post4729711

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=486755&highlight=46H84

Originally posted by atye
I know this seem ridiculous, but I need to ask. You're saying if I'm in MOVIE, when I start to tweak it KEEPS the SVM off, even when I save it? So then when I select PREFERENCE again, SVM STAYS off?

Yup! That's right. It will stay off(SVM) in preference. Any time you change settings in any mode it will change to preference mode. But only in making changes starting in MOVIE mode does the SVM stay off. Like i said earlier, it only changes the name to Preference so that it can retain the original MOVIE preset info in case you would screw up your settings so bad that you couldn't get it looking good again. For us that sounds absurd, i know. But i have had neighbors fooling around with their set(usually blame it on their spouse or kids) and can't get it back to the right colors etc. Then they'll call me to come over and look at it. Since the original settings are maintained in MOVIE mode , the average Joe consumer can have those settings back at the touch of a button. Just remember Movie mode disables it and when you make adjustments on MOVIE mode it will change to Preference and it will remain SVM disabled.:)

Awesome! Now I've been playing around with settings, going back and forth between Movie and other modes, and that SVM is horrific. It puts a ghastly edge on every contour and line. It's great they allow an easy work around for it!

Thanks!

Hi!

I am interested on getting the toshiba 62h84. I have been reading the thread, and was wondering if toshiba has been able to solve the white line problem? If not, I guess that I have to look for a different RPTV.

Thanks,

Originally posted by gonzalc3
Hi!

I am interested on getting the toshiba 62h84. I have been reading the thread, and was wondering if toshiba has been able to solve the white line problem? If not, I guess that I have to look for a different RPTV.

Thanks,
Considering you're asking about the white line I'll assume you meant the 65H84. The 62HM84 is a DLP and doesn't suffer from the white line (as far as I know).

With that said, I have the 65H84 and it has the white line. I never noticed it until I put on a hockey game (just to see if I had the white line) and sure enough I saw it, almost immediately. Fortunately I don't normally watch hockey so this really isn't that big of an issue for me.

As you may know there's a fix for this but it's too bad Toshiba is still shipping these sets with this problem.

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
The first thought that occured in my head is the dvi cord that you are using. You mentioned that you used a couple, you might want to consider getting at least a midrange - high end cable. Technically in a perfect world yes you wouldnt notice a damn difference. However as everyone knows all cables are not made equal. People have seen sparkles all over with their dvi, artifacts all over the place, I think I do remember a guy seeing red with his. Simply just because it is digital doesnt mean that it will come in perfect, the cable may be made bad, and may add some impurities into the signal, it happens. So definitely try getting a high grade cable. I use a AR DVI cable, with a monster DVI/HDMI converter to my tv. It works perfectly.


I've examined this problem more and I have now noticed that the red noise (speckles) on my 51H93 through the DVI gets worse as the TV is on longer. When the TV is first switched on, I can't notice any of the red noise, but after about 30 minutes, it can be seen again. One funny thing is that the red speckles are worse on the left side of the screen. Hardly any on the right. Again, I am only using one fairly short (2m) DVI cable that came with the RCA HD receiver. The problem was also present when I had a Comcast HD-DVR connected to the DVI. I think I'm going to call Toshiba for service on this one. Possible a bad DVI board?

Myself and pittdog1 are lucky enough to have an 46H84 and 46H83 respectively, w/o the white line issue. Im sure as well as others, but again there several people like Vin with this issue.

Originally posted by Vin
Considering you're asking about the white line I'll assume you meant the 65H84. The 62HM84 is a DLP and doesn't suffer from the white line (as far as I know).

With that said, I have the 65H84 and it has the white line. I never noticed it until I put on a hockey game (just to see if I had the white line) and sure enough I saw it, almost immediately. Fortunately I don't normally watch hockey so this really isn't that big of an issue for me.

As you may know there's a fix for this but it's too bad Toshiba is still shipping these sets with this problem.

Yes Vin, I am considering the 65H84. What is the fix for this problem? The problem at least for me, is that once I see an artifact, I will be seeing it
always. I had a DVD player with the CUE bug, and once I saw it, I kept
seeing it all over the place.

:)

Utoh... what is this white line issue?
I am considering buying a 65H84 but not if there is a problem with these sets that cannot be easily fixed... ala, turning off SVM.

Is there a serial number, or manufacture date we should look for in order to get a 65H84 without the white line?

More info on the white line problem on the 65H84.. please?

Thanks!

Originally posted by merc
Utoh... what is this white line issue?
I am considering buying a 65H84 but not if there is a problem with these sets that cannot be easily fixed... ala, turning off SVM.

Is there a serial number, or manufacture date we should look for in order to get a 65H84 without the white line?

More info on the white line problem on the 65H84.. please?

Thanks!

Do a Google search for: "center drive line"+toshiba (make sure you use quotes) You will find many threads discussing this problem. There is a fix and a TSB for the 2003 models, but nothing for the 2004 models.

You can do a search in the forum archives, me and Knightfall(where are you?) started a poll on the white line issue. I haven't cheched in a long time but i think the poll was right about 50/50 for having it or not. Alot of people that have it say it is very faint and if you don't have it , then you really do and you just can't see it. Whatever. If i had it i would see it as i have seen it on other sets. Plus the fact that i have very faint jail barring(another issue with some H83's) that i notice from time to time. I never heard anyone complain about them on the H84's so maybe Toshiba pulled there head out and got that fixed at least. Unless you watch alot of Hockey or other very light background material with a fast panning camera side to side(such as hockey) i doubt that you would ever see it. Also take in to consideration that there is a few minor common complaints on about every set made anyway. These sets are great, cheap, and so far very reliable. I've had mine a little over a year now and have had no problems. Plus i haven't really heard of anyone's completely crapping out on them. Can any other brand on this site say the same thing? Maybe ,but so far so good for Tosh reliability.

Thanks guys for the info on the Center Drive Issue.

Hockey is my second favorite sport, and my favorite team is ONLY available from where I live via TV... so, this white line issue would be a deal killer for me. Sounds like I need to go to a store which has this set and try to watch some hockey to see if it would bother me.

I eliminated LCD sets due to lack of black level and shadow detail, DLP sets due to rainbows, and potentially the Toshiba due to this center line problem... The dang Mits with the 9" guns, for $1000 more, is looking less expensive all the time... :(

Christian and merc, as Bill and pittdog said there are lots of threads on the white line - here's (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4886717#post4886717) a couple of posts on it from this thread and here's (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4172866) the service bulletin on it.

As mentioned, if you look hard enough you can find something wrong with just about any TV. Read as much as you can - actually this may be bad advice :) - and then decide for yourself what's acceptable to you.

Thanks! I read the thread in the Home Theater Spot website, and it doesn't look like an easy fix. Technician need to come and solder a cable
on the circuit, etc.. I don't understand why Toshiba doesn't do this in the first place.

:mad:

Originally posted by pittdog1
You can do a search in the forum archives, me and Knightfall(where are you?) started a poll on the white line issue. I haven't cheched in a long time but i think the poll was right about 50/50 for having it or not. Alot of people that have it say it is very faint and if you don't have it , then you really do and you just can't see it. Whatever. If i had it i would see it as i have seen it on other sets. Plus the fact that i have very faint jail barring(another issue with some H83's) that i notice from time to time. I never heard anyone complain about them on the H84's so maybe Toshiba pulled there head out and got that fixed at least. Unless you watch alot of Hockey or other very light background material with a fast panning camera side to side(such as hockey) i doubt that you would ever see it. Also take in to consideration that there is a few minor common complaints on about every set made anyway. These sets are great, cheap, and so far very reliable. I've had mine a little over a year now and have had no problems. Plus i haven't really heard of anyone's completely crapping out on them. Can any other brand on this site say the same thing? Maybe ,but so far so good for Tosh reliability.
I love my "Toshie" (My tv's nickname, yes I know its sad). No one tv is perfect you can look closely at a set and write down a billion things wrong about it, and right about it as well. However more likely than not the things wrong about it will get more attention. My first statement saying "I love my Toshie" which is absolutely true, however there is one thing that I see wrong with the set, I dont let it bother me because I know the tv is for me, and there could a hell of alot more wrong with it.

MY problem is usually with shadows, or darks spots in a scene. For some reason it isnt a gradual color change for shadows its like 3-4 different levels of gray or black or whatever the color is descending darker to lighter around the object like a person or a wall. No big deal, but it is deal, I still love my Toshie though.

For Merc I do understand that hockey is your favourite sport, one of my favourites as well (Just wish we could be watching it this year in Hidef, but that is a different story). Dont let the white line issue bother your purchase because it is about 50-50 in getting it, and if you do get it, it probably wont bother you, because generally it is usually faint. But go on what your gut says, not what I say.

Thanks Matt for the advice and info.

As for HDTVs which exhibit some type of problem, my 3 year old Pioneer HDTV didn't have any... until it broke. :(

I don't easily see rainbows on DLP sets either, but found myself "trying" to see them every time I watched one... and it distracted from my enjoyment of whatever I was watching. I am worried that the White line would cause this same type of distraction too?

I wonder if my local Best Buy carries this set so I can go look at one?

Most likely yes, I know my store does, as well as the other store about 45 minutes away. The day after I had to return/exchange the mitsubishi that was lost for the toshiba, I ran over to the set got it calibrated with my disc and put it on their feed, and it was just amazing, I couldnt wait to bring it home when it came in.

As for your Pioneer, no doubt its a great RP hands down. But Im sure somewhere in the production line there is a querk or something minor that some people could see. You possibly lucked out, I consider myself for lucky because so far my set has performed flawlessly. No white line, no red push, beautiful picture, convergence isnt too off, and doesnt go off almost at all after convergence (BTW pittdog last night I just wanted to see how the grid in the sm looked for convergence, I noticed only at the top quarter of the tv is slightly off, I cant wait to converge that in a couple of weeks, im sure it will look phenomenal). The only two things that bother me (which is doesnt but Im simply just saying because I feel obligated to), is the shadow thing I talked about (which im overplaying Ill stop), and the hdmi "handshake", which isnt the tv's fault it is the cableboxs fault. So in reality the tv is as close to perfection in my environment as can be. Very happy with my purchase, money well spent.

The white line issue is a problem when watching hockey or extreme white scenes but it is only a minor one overall. The Toshiba performs extremely well on all other fronts and still remains a best buy. If you concentrate on the white line it could become an issue. I plan to have mine serviced but am in no particular rush.

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
I love my "Toshie"

MY problem is usually with shadows, or darks spots in a scene. For some reason it isnt a gradual color change for shadows its like 3-4 different levels of gray or black or whatever the color is descending darker to lighter around the object like a person or a wall.


Sounds like a problem with your source material or your input device. This happens sometimes with a bad film to digital transfer, or from over compression. The other problem comes if the STB or DVD player has problems passing blacker than black. I think they call this black crush(?)

If it is truely from the TV, then your calibration is off somehow.
These TVs should produce wonderful blacks and great shawdow detail when properly set up.

One thing you guys can try that are having the HDMI" handshake " issue. If you haven't heard this before give it a try. Alway when using DVI/HDMI turn on the set first and then the DVI/HDMI source second. When turning off, Shut down DVI/HDMI source first and the set second. TW cable told me that little bit of info when i had my set hooked up with DVI on my previous HD box and it worked flawlessly. If i forgot to do it in that sequence i sometimes experienced the same troubles you guys are having.

I noticed the line (it's a BRIGHT line, not a WHITE line) last night. I'll try to get it fixed, but I'm so happy with the PQ on DVDs I can live with it, esp for the money. (I'll get HD thru VOOM Monday!:))

BTW, I had an issue with a few scenes I demoed last night. At the beginning of CH 10 & 11 of Star Wars Ep. II, iI noticed terrible jaggies on the edges of buildings as the camera panned. I didn't remember this from before, so I checked all the settings (I thought) and couldn't find anything. I looked at SHREK II in the scene where they are entering the town in the onion buggy, and there were jaggies in the brick street. Checked settings again and realized my CINEMA setting was on VIDEO instead of FILM. I honestly didn't think it would make a big difference, but it was UNBELIEVABLE!! All jaggies disappeared!
So make sure before you watch DVDs that you have CINEMA set to FILM, OK?:D

Originally posted by atye
BTW, I had an issue with a few scenes I demoed last night. At the beginning of CH 10 & 11 of Star Wars Ep. II, iI noticed terrible jaggies on the edges of buildings as the camera panned. I didn't remember this from before, so I checked all the settings (I thought) and couldn't find anything. I looked at SHREK II in the scene where they are entering the town in the onion buggy, and there were jaggies in the brick street. Checked settings again and realized my CINEMA setting was on VIDEO instead of FILM. I honestly didn't think it would make a big difference, but it was UNBELIEVABLE!! All jaggies disappeared!
So make sure before you watch DVDs that you have CINEMA set to FILM, OK?:D

Can all these settings be controlled with a learning remote with one button? Maybe Pronto or something? I really have a problem doing all these sequences and love my one button approach to turning on my system.

Also pittdog1, the Pioneer 59AVi user manual has that info you mentioned above with turning on the player las and turning it off first with an HDMI connection. I have my player, not plugged in yet, just perusing through the manual. lol

I'm noticing a slight reddish, pupleish tint to fleshtones. I've found some info about color and greyscale tweaks in the service menu regarding these parameters:

RCUT- Red Cutoff
GCUT- Green Cutoff
BCUT- Blue Cutoff
RDRV- Red Drive
BDRV- Blue Drive

Now, I ASSUME that Cutoff means when you push volume up it does something to CUT or diminish the amount of that color, and DRIVE means when you go up, you get more. Does anyone know about this, or about other resources I might explore to learn more? I've done alot of searching but maybe some of you have found things I have not.

Thanks!

Back a couple of pages in this thread some guys were talkin about how they reduced the red gun using those cuts and drives you listed. But, before you go through all that, if it's not to bad, try this first. Make sure that you have flesh tone turned off. Also, try medium instead of warm(if you don't all ready have it set that way) and see if that reduces the red tone a little bit. You can also try bumping your color setting down just a notch or 2 and see if that reduces the red tones you are seeing on faces without it muting the other colors to much.

atye -

Be careful in the service menu! You could really screw up the set if you adjust the wrong setting...

My set came the same way pushing red & blue... I reduced RCUT by 6 six... to get rid of the red then BCUT by about four to get rid of the blueish/purplish tint...

It looks great!! I'm very happy with my purchase!

Originally posted by atye
I'm noticing a slight reddish, pupleish tint to fleshtones. I've found some info about color and greyscale tweaks in the service menu regarding these parameters:

I've been able to correct the reddish skin tones without going into the service menu. I have the color setting at 25, tint at G20, color temp at Cool....I know, using the Cool setting is considered sacrilege but it works for me. Just thought I'd pass this along for anyone that might be struggling to find the right combination of settings to eliminate the red push problem without going into the service menu.

I'm also using cool, works for me. I have had my set for 3 days and am still tweaking. Using THX optimizer and a VE, not DVE, disk. Heading to my hometheater store for blue glasses today.

I'll have a post later about 60 cycle hum unrelated to this TV, keep an eye out for that one.

.

wanted to share with everyone a little guide on how to hookup there computer to there tv to game on. I went out got a 12foot HDMI/DVI cable 100+ btw . Hooked it up. booted the computer, switched the tv over to HDMI. WindowsXP saw the toshiba. I switched over the primary to the toshiba. First thing I saw was I had no start bar. went into the monitor settings changed the HDTV overscan so that windows can fit on the screen, as u see in the pics below my rez is 1177x662
First game I tryed was Halflife2 , WOW.. It supports widescreen 16:9 and HD rez 1900x1080. and it looks KICKAZZ! The screen shot below does no justice to the game I was playing. Its 1pm here so the lighting is comming off the tv screen. maybe later tonight I'll post some darker pics to show you guys. Other games are 5 inches off to the left. I wanted to ask anyone here if there is a way to adjust the tv set ??? Also is it safe to run the fishtank screensaver on the tv?
Another thing I noticed was that the default settings for contrast is 100!! . Gotta be carefull on that one. anyways enjoy the pics if you guys have any questions let me know. I have been waiting for this for 3 years. finally got it. LOVE IT!



http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h841.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h842.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h843.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h844.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h845.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h846.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h847.jpg
http://www.imagemonster.org/getimg/windows65h848.jpg

Picture looks awesome, what vid card are you using?

Originally posted by Vin
I've been able to correct the reddish skin tones without going into the service menu. I have the color setting at 25, tint at G20, color temp at Cool....I know, using the Cool setting is considered sacrilege but it works for me. Just thought I'd pass this along for anyone that might be struggling to find the right combination of settings to eliminate the red push problem without going into the service menu.

Don't you find that your image is really blue now?

lexicons -

That looks amazing!!!! I may have to go out out and do the same... I love playing games off my XBOX on the set but the computer would rock!

You think there'll be a problem with burn in though?

I've got a convergence question on the 46H84 that's been bugging me for the month or so I've had the set. I've done the 56 pt convergence several times now and have had no trouble with blue/red adjustments. I do notice, though, that the white crosses have a green shadow to them that I can't adjust using red or blue. Is this something I can correct easily? I've lowered red and green using the SM. This eliminated the green tint I found in dark scenes, but hasn't helped the convergence. Any ideas?
Thanks, guys.
Ted

I'm not sure about burn in, I'm kinda worried about that. I don't use it all the time on the bigscreen just when I play games.

I notice the fonts on the windows desktop are still not very sharp, I wonder what dlp or lcd screens look like.

The video card is a geforceFX 5900

If you want to sharpen the text up, i would go into cleartype as your selected font, then hit this link



here (http://www.majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=3959&file=11&evp=2f912fd2bb6a6827d8664c07f8e5d5c4)

You can find the official ClearType Tweak from MS's site here as well (http://www.microsoft.com/typography/cleartype/tuner/1.htm)

This should enhance your image quality. Remember, that using DVI output, youre getting a straight digital signal, so pretty much what you end up on the screen is what you end up with. However, ive used the Cleartype tweaker on big screens in the past and its helped. Also, the Ramdac on Nvidia cards up until the 6800 series sucked. ATI has a much sharper image from my experiences.

Originally posted by VeniceDre
Don't you find that your image is really blue now?
Not at all. The possibility exists, of course, that someone else may get totally different/unsatisfactory results with the same settings on the same set.

Essentially, what I was trying to point out was that in some cases a particular combination of components just might yield the best results with an unorthodox approach. YMMV.

I've got a convergence question on the 46H84 that's been bugging me for the month or so I've had the set. I've done the 56 pt convergence several times now and have had no trouble with blue/red adjustments. I do notice, though, that the white crosses have a green shadow to them that I can't adjust using red or blue. Is this something I can correct easily? I've lowered red and green using the SM. This eliminated the green tint I found in dark scenes, but hasn't helped the convergence. Any ideas?

Not sure what you mean by "green shadow", sounds like you're only adjusting the red and blue during 56pt (I assume on the 84's, like the 83's, 56pt is only available via the SM?). Is it a "blooming" of the green you see which could be a focus issue??

PBC

You can't "correct" red push via cuts and drives. Red push is a colour decoder issue, not a grey scale issue. If you mean reddish hues in skin tones or dark scenes, then yes, this can be corrected using CUTS and DRVs, but this is not red push.

Atye - CUTS and DRVS are very different. Simply put, CUTS are used to adjust the amount of red/green/blue you see in the darker shades of gray, DRVS adjust the red and blue you see in the lighter shades of gray (or whites).

KeohiHDTV and The Spot are great resources (saw your post at the Spot and yes the $25 is more than worth it). Do yourself a huge favour and do as much research as you can before fooling around in the SM! And write everything down first!

Regards,

PBC

My 65H84 has 56 pt converg in the users menu. It's the white crosses, whereas in the SM it's a grid.

Not sure what you mean by "green shadow", sounds like you're only adjusting the red and blue during 56pt (I assume on the 84's, like the 83's, 56pt is only available via the SM?). Is it a "blooming" of the green you see which could be a focus issue??

On the 84's, the convergence is available on the user settings. It consists of white crosses, where you can adjust blue and red overhang. There is no green that should be visible; therefore I don't think it could be blooming. It just looks like if there were an option to adjust green, as well as blue and red, it would take care of it, i.e., a greenish tinge to an otherwise white cross. I hope I explained it well enough...it's tough to describe.

atye,

Has Toshiba agreed to fix, and can they fix, the center drive line issue on your HDTV?

Yes, everyone's set comes from the factory with different color settings... Although I have to admit even with the errors this has been the best set I've had out of the box in the last ten years.

I just found that after adjusting the red level, it uncovered excessive blue in the greyscale .... After three weeks of living with it my final service menu settings, original and adjustments are:

RCUT 98H 92H*
GCUT 80H 80H
BCUT 82H 7CH*
RDRV 1DH 1DH
BDRV 37H 34H*

After these tweaks when I watch a black and white film it's that, not blueish and white or reddish and white .

Great color, also my fleshtones are dead on with no tint adjustment no matter what signal DVD, HD, D-VHS.

Final picture settings:

Contrast: 40
Brightness: 39
Color: 24
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 30
Temp: Warm

For the price this is a great set! Great picture in 540p & 1080i and the convergence hasn't drifted at all. I'd like to thank everyone who's contributed to this thread... It helped me decide on my purchase. I couldn't be happier.

"On the 84's, the convergence is available on the user settings. It consists of white crosses, where you can adjust blue and red overhang. There is no green that should be visible; therefore I don't think it could be blooming"

do not adjust the convergence with the user settings, it is big time inferior to the service menu 56 point.

I couldn't agree with Biglyle more. I would hit Touchfocus to reset your convergence to factory settings (assuming you haven't saved anything yet via the SM) and perform 56pt via the Service Menu.

Regards,

PBC

I've put in a call to an authorized Toshiba service shop. The service guy called Toshiba, and evidently, they're saying the line issue has been fixed on the H84s. I'm obviously seeing the line, so the tech said he has to come out and verify it's there so he can try to convince them to pay to have it fixed.
I've also just noticed a purple spot behind my screen about the size of a pea. He told me my green gun probably needs to be replaced! Anybody had anything like this done?

I parked myself in front of a 65H84 at our local Best Buy, for almost an hour tonight, and tried as hard as I could to see the center drive line... I never did. There was no hockey game or white out screen in the endless HD loop which I viewed, but there were bright yellow CNET screens and a few multishade white screens and I never say the line??? How thick is the line? Is it like the old shadow mask wires that used to run horzontally on early Sony trinitron monitors... or more like a wider burn-in type shadow?

Anyone have a picture of this drive line problem?

Originally posted by merc
I parked myself in front of a 65H84 at our local Best Buy, for almost an hour tonight, and tried as hard as I could to see the center drive line... I never did. There was no hockey game or white out screen in the endless HD loop which I viewed, but there were bright yellow CNET screens and a few multishade white screens and I never say the line??? How thick is the line? Is it like the old shadow mask wires that used to run horzontally on early Sony trinitron monitors... or more like a wider burn-in type shadow?

Anyone have a picture of this drive line problem? I think it would be difficult to photograph. I see it on my 65H84 when a large bright area is panning from one side to another. It's just to the right of center, and about a centimeter to 1/2 an inch thick. It's definately not just white. It matches whatever color it's panning through. If the area is light blue or yellow, it will simply be a brighter version of that color.
If the scenes you saw at BB had alot of text or didn't pan through large bright areas, you wouldn't see it. I've seen it watching basketball, (panning across the court), golf, (panning the sky) the opening scene in AOTC, (when the camera pans left to right through the clouds) etc.

How serious is this center line problem? Is it on every set?
Thanks,

I have the 65H84 with the line. I turned up my contrast from 37 to 40 and lowered my brightness from 46 to 43. Now the line is almost invisible. I watched a hockey rerun last night and the line didn't stand out. I think there is a magic setting between contrast and brightness that makes it practically dissappear.

All of the sets that I saw in all sizes at the store had this line. I called Toshiba Canada about it and they said that they have sold thousands of these sets but only a few people have mentioned it to them. They gave me the number of a few Toshiba service depots in my area. I called them and not one of them knew what I was talking about. They all said they had never heard of this problem or the fix. Weird...

Anyway, I am not going to worry about this line anymore. It only appears under certain conditions and now on my set it is almost invisible. Even if I pushed to get the fix applied, I'm sure that I'd get some guy who has never done it before tearing my TV apart. Oh ya, the service centers all said that they would have to have the TV in the shop. No way that's going to happen.

The way I look at it is these sets have an absolutely outstanding PQ. Also they are relatively cheap compared to every other set out there. I looked at many sets before buying mine and each one had visible flaws in the picture. LCD had screendoor and silkdoor. DLP had rainbows etc. etc.

In Canada now, a 65 inch CRT is very scarce. The only make I could find in that size was Toshiba. All in all, I am very happy with it.

Originally posted by seadragon
I have the 65H84 with the line.
Even if I pushed to get the fix applied, I'm sure that I'd get some guy who has never done it before tearing my TV apart. Oh ya, the service centers all said that they would have to have the TV in the shop. No way that's going to happen.

The way I look at it is these sets have an absolutely outstanding PQ. Also they are relatively cheap compared to every other set out there. I looked at many sets before buying mine and each one had visible flaws in the picture. LCD had screendoor and silkdoor. DLP had rainbows etc. etc.
I also have a 65H8 with the line and I absolutely agree with you, i.e, it's not that bad (besides, I don't watch hockey), there's the possibility of winding up with a bigger problem if the wrong person get's his hands on it, sending my TV to a repair shop for something so minor is out of the question, and despite the minor flaws that these sets have they still display an incredible picture for the money.

Well, I don't have the Toshiba yet, and am trying to decide between the Toshiba and a Mits 65813. The Mits costs $1000(1/3rd) more delivered, but, it doesn't have the line problem. I can't help but wonder if I am going to spend the next 5 years, until my next HDTV purchase, looking at that damn line and wondering why I went the cheap way? Still, with that extra $1000, I can buy a Denon 3910 for both audio and video use....

I almost wish I could have seen that dang center drive line so that I could make an informed decision....?

Merc,

I am in the same boat as you are. The Toshiba 65 H84 I can get it for
about $2000, and a demo displayed Mitsubishi 65813 for about $2700.

Here are my pro's and con's

Toshiba's
Pro's :700 dollars cheaper, HDMI, and can upconvert a 720p input to 1080i.
Con's: The Center line problem, and the color (silver)

Mitsubishi's

Pro's: No Center line problem. More reliable, black, and according to Craig R Rounds, who is a well known ISF calibrator, is the best CRT RPTV out there.

Con's: 700 bucks more. It cannot upconpert or downconvert any 720p input. Has DVI and no HDMI.


So there you go. I guess that we need to decide with which one do we want to stick with.

Good luck!

Originally posted by merc
Well, I don't have the Toshiba yet, and am trying to decide between the Toshiba and a Mits 65813. The Mits costs $1000(1/3rd) more delivered, but, it doesn't have the line problem. I can't help but wonder if I am going to spend the next 5 years, until my next HDTV purchase, looking at that damn line and wondering why I went the cheap way? Still, with that extra $1000, I can buy a Denon 3910 for both audio and video use....

I almost wish I could have seen that dang center drive line so that I could make an informed decision....?

I have a 51H93, which has the center drive line problem. I've owned the TV for about 4 months and I never noticed the "line" until I thoroughly read the forum threads and I specifically looked for it during a hockey re-run game on HDNet the other night. I don't think it will bother you. Its not really a line, but a very faint area (with vertical orientation) of increased brightness for a split second during fast pans with bright background. Hardly worth spending an extra grand!

It cannot upconpert or downconvert any 720p input. Has DVI and no HDMI.What does this mean? Does this mean that the Mits simply displays input ABC HD and Fox HD 720p signals natively at 720p? Or, that the screen goes black when you tune into those stations?

Merc,

No. The Toshiba and the Mitsubishi display their high definition at 1080i. For the Mitsubishi to display 720p signals, your cable/satellite box should be set to ouput 1080i. Therefore, the upconversion will be done through the box. The problem arises, if in the future there is a device that will only output 720p and does not allow to upconvert 1080i. However, this scenario is very unlikely due that most of the CRT's big screens display natively 1080i and not 720p. Also, if it were the case, there is always ISCAN HD+ which can upconvert or downconvert almost anything.

The other advantage of the Mitsubishi is the ability to display 480p natively. For some, this is the best setting for DVDs. I still have doubts if you have a player like the Denon 3910, Pioneer 59AVi, Onkyo DV SP1000, or the new flagship Denon 5910. I think that any of these players upconverting to 1080i will look much better over 480p.

:)

Hey again fellow H83/84 owners. Sorry I havent posted in a little bit. Im about to buy myself a learning remote most likely Sony's RMAV2500. Just curious what are you guys using?

Hopefully the sony will be able to control all my components well.
46H84
HTR-5630
DVD-47S
Motorola 5412

Maybe even a couple things from the wireless keyboard and mouse I will get when I purchase the graphics card when I connect my HTPC to the tv.

Home Theater Master MX-500. Great remote, all it's missing is RF capabilities and doesn't have the amount of Macros as some of the newer ones. But more than enough Macros for my uses!

Components I use the remote with ...

51HX83
Denon 2802
SA8300HD PVR STB
Toshiba 4800DVD Player
Toshiba VCR
Oh and my lighting (Levitron Remote Dimmer)


Cheers,

PBC

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Hey again fellow H83/84 owners. Sorry I havent posted in a little bit. Im about to buy myself a learning remote most likely Sony's RMAV2500. Just curious what are you guys using?


I have been using the Sony AV3000 for a couple of years now. Works like a charm with my system. Not bad for $99 new. Controls everything: TV, Denon receiver, DirecTV STB, VCR, DVD, CD player. Macros to change inputs and turn everything on/off. I love it.

Originally posted by billbillw
I have a 51H93, which has the center drive line problem. I've owned the TV for about 4 months and I never noticed the "line" until I thoroughly read the forum threads and I specifically looked for it during a hockey re-run game on HDNet the other night. I don't think it will bother you. Its not really a line, but a very faint area (with vertical orientation) of increased brightness for a split second during fast pans with bright background. Hardly worth spending an extra grand!
Agreed. I was reluctant to buy the Toshiba because of the white line issue but after researching and looking at different sets for about a year I finally decided to take a chance. As it turned out, my set has the white line but IMO, it's just not that big a deal - I have no regrets, especially for the price, which BTW gonzalc3, you should be able to do a lot better than $2000 for the 65H84 if you look around, I did.

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Hey again fellow H83/84 owners. Sorry I havent posted in a little bit. Im about to buy myself a learning remote most likely Sony's RMAV2500. Just curious what are you guys using?

I recently bought an MX-500 (Amazon had it about a month ago for $66.49 shipped) and now that I've owned it for a while I realize just how incredible of a buy that was!

Before owning this remote I had the Radio Shack 15-2116 (among many others) :) which is a very nice remote for the money but it didn't have enough memory to suit my needs so when I saw the MX-500 for that price I jumped on it.

I have it controlling my Toshiba 65H84, Pioneer A/V receiver, Samsung 360 HD receiver, Philips DTiVo, Toshiba DVD player and Sony VCR. I have macros on all my device buttons to make audio and video switching a breeze. It learned all the functions that weren't included with the device codes without ever breaking a sweat - I feel like it's sitting there laughing at me saying "is that all you got?!" :D

I agree with those who say the PQ of these sets is great, but to me the line IS a big deal. Toshiba has had quite a few years to correct this problem, and instead it seems they've just put various band-aids on it. I'm not saying I'm disappointed with my purchase or regret getting this set, just that it's incomprehensible to me that they would not have this solved by now. From the reading I have done, Toshibas have had this problem with every generation of Hi-def CRT RPTV they have made. As far as I'm concerned, that equals an unacceptable level of quality control.
Yes, I am very happy with this TV for the most part. I just had VOOM installed and the HD picture is awesome!
BTW, I also had a guy tell me they would only fix the line in their shop, but this is in opposition to Toshibas 1 year in-home service. I called another shop that's FARTHER away, and they are willing to send a tech out here several times if necessary.

Thank you all for your responses with the remote more than I though I would get in that short amount of time. The MX-500 seems to be the most popular I'll look into that one as well.

Although more expensive, if you want to use your computer to set up the remote you can get the MX-700. I've heard, but have no first hand experience, that it makes setting up the remote even easier. It's about $180 or so, which is quite a bit more than than MX-500. I'm in the process of debating this same issue right now. I like things easy and my buddy with the MX-500 says that while it is fairly easy to set up if you do proper planning, I might like the ease of the MX-700.

Alright after doing some research I think I have three to choose from, all with its advantages.

1. MX-500, a lot of people from this thread, as well as remote section use it and like it. Price isnt too bad.

2. Sony RM-AV2500, the one I like the most, aesthetically pleasing as well, price again isnt too bad.

3. Sony RM-VL900. Price is great, performs well, my friend who has his Sammy 42 dlp, moto box, HTPC, xbox connected with it. Wouldnt mind having it either, and price again is great.

Thoughts...if any?

I'm considering a 46H84. Can anyone with one tell me if it will fit on a 36 x 18 inch shelf (OK if it hangs over ...)? I've got a Metro-style wire rack that I'd like to use.

Thanks!

Originally posted by skidmark
I'm considering a 46H84. Can anyone with one tell me if it will fit on a 36 x 18 inch shelf (OK if it hangs over ...)? I've got a Metro-style wire rack that I'd like to use.

Thanks!
Great tv I love mine. I measure the four feet on the bottom for you, looks like your going to be fine that is of course if the stand can support the weight. The feet span about 28 inches in width, and about 16-17 in depth. Although I would defintely definitely try to persuade you to use another stand, but technically yes this could work.

My stand fits not too bad it hangs of about 1/2 inch on each side and depth is just about right on being about 22 in depth. Check out my gallery if you would like.

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
... looks like your going to be fine that is of course if the stand can support the weight. The feet span about 28 inches in width, and about 16-17 in depth. Although I would defintely definitely try to persuade you to use another stand, but technically yes this could work ...

Thanks for the quick reply! These are pretty heavy-duty, rated to 600 pounds (I use one to hold a large aquarium.) I don't care for the design of the Toshiba stand, and until I design and build a "custom," this should keep it off the floor!

Mark

Wow. I could never have imagined I would find such an informative thread about the Toshiba series H84 televisions. I'm like a kid in a candy store!

I recently recieved my first HD tv, the 51H84C (Canada) and I love it! I first started browsing this site looking for an answer to the "red haze" issue and I'm so happy I found so much information about how to fix it.

I don't know if I have the white line issue. I'm afraid to look.

I have another question though. I'm currently using the Toshiba SD 5970 DVD player with the HDMI output. I have the player set to 1080i upconversion and the TV obviously set to 1080i as well. I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether or not it's better to go with 1080i, or to go with 540p when watching DVDs. For 540p, I assume this means leaving the DVD player alone (no upconversion) and setting the TV to 540p. However I understand the native "resolution" for the TV is 1080i.

Any thoughts/suggestions/advice/information on this would be greatly appreciated.

Here's my gear:

TV - 51H84C
DVD - SD 5970
Receiver - JVC RX-6042S
Speakers - JVC SX-W850 (satellites)
(I'm using a Monster HDMI cable from DVD to TV and Monster Digital Coaxial cable from DVD to Receiver)

Thanks for any input!

Wap

I just received delivery of my 65H84. I'm watching Monster's Inc with a new DVD player as well. Pio Elite 59AVi using HDMI straight to the TV at 1080i. I did a very quick tweeking of contrast etc... Contrast was at 100! wow.

Everything's a little overwhelming, just using the different remotes controlling stuff and trying to change audio/video etc to the correct setting to watch what's on. I'll get used to it and would definately be looking into a remote that does it ALL.

Picture looks good but will definately do better with calibration. Getting an ISF next month. Thanks for the great thread. A lot of useful info here.

Not 100% relevant to your post, but I'm running a Tosh 3960 via components to a 51H83 and can't tell a difference between setting the TV on 540p or 1080i. I also don't see much difference when I turn progressive off on my DVD player.

My picture looks a little soft from 10', is this normal? I haven't done 56point, only 9. Need to get HD yet, haven't tried an HD signal.

One last question, I have calibrated using the older Video Essentials, not the new Digital Video Essentials. Is it worth it for me to upgrade to the latest version?

WebCaplet, congrats on finding this thread! I knew it would help you out. There is so much info on this thread that you will probably lose your mind trying to read it all. As far as your DVD player goes, just try it in all configurations between it and the set.

eugovector, the 56 pt. will probably sharpen up your pic quite a bit. I otiginally calibrated mine with VE and then purchased the newer DVE. While there is alot more patterns geared towards widescreen sets on it, my numbers were virtually identical between the 2.

cissado, just make sure to bring everything down to around the 50% mark on your set. This will prepare you for the ISF calibrated picture that you're going to see once it is cal'd. As well as the usual burn-in wearing the phosphors etc. If you leave your settings to high , you might be disappointed in the PQ after calibration.

You guys all enjoy your sets, just as i enjoy mine. Don't be bashful and post some pics in the gallery of your set-ups. Mine and SSJ's are in there all ready. It'd be nice to have some company!

Great looking system Pittdog ...

Thanks pittdog1. My ISF guy told me to lower those settings to about 50% when I initially made the appointment. He also said select "war" mode and run it about 4 hours/day for a month before calibration.

The guy seems to be well known and very busy. I just got lucky that I happen to live close to him. lol

cissado,

The minimum amount of time before ISF calibration is 100 hours. However,
some of the most respected calibrators that are in the Home Theater Spot recomend to have it done after 300 hours. Not only for burn in the guns but also in case there is any defect with the set you can always use your warranty for replacement,etc..

Enjoy in the meantime.

:)

Originally posted by gonzalc3
cissado,

The minimum amount of time before ISF calibration is 100 hours. However,
some of the most respected calibrators that are in the Home Theater Spot recomend to have it done after 300 hours. Not only for burn in the guns but also in case there is any defect with the set you can always use your warranty for replacement,etc..

Enjoy in the meantime.

:)

I understand. Sounds reasonable. When I made the appointment, I was awaiting delivery of the set from a purchase in December. I made the appointment for the middle of February some time. I thught it would be enought time but there was a delay in the shipping and I just received the set. Not a huge disaster, but it should go well.

PS I use the set waaaay more than 4 hours a day. lol

PC picture does look great but be warned I saw a warning in the manual this TV was not designed for PC.

Originally posted by stu benedict
After reading about the red push and RCUT reductions in this excellent thread, I decided to venture into my new 46H84's service menu last night to check my default RCUT setting (I had extensive experience in tweaking my previous 27" Sony Wega's SM, so I wasn't too hesitant). It was 74H. I was a little surprised after reading that I should expect to see 90H or thereabouts. I might add that I'm not seeing an extensive red push, although there is a slight pinkish tint on the edges of the screen when I view the DVE grayscales. I thought this was probably due to the "warm" color setting, which does tend to emphasize red more than the other 2 settings. Additionally, when I set color and tint using DVE, the color bars seem right on with the blue and red filters, but nowhere near what they should look like with the green filter. Do I have green push? Or should I try "medium" color setting, as SSJ suggested previously? Any thoughts on what I should/shouldn't do?
Thanks,
Ted

Using the DVE disk, I have the same green push, (rather than red that others are seeing.) Also, my red and blue color bars are adjusted right on.
Since I have not seen any color issues, (as others have) I have not seen any reason to adjust any of the SM settings. But, if I can't get the green set correctly using the
user settings, should I consider moving the GCUT? Or, just be happy?

For reference- (these are the original settings)
RCUT 70H
GCUT 80H
BCUT 78H

This has been said before, but for those people using any of the preset settings of SPORTS/STANDARD/MOVIE or have not used a calibration disk yet..... you really don't know what a great PQ is!!

Toshiba 46H83 (8 months old)
Zenith DVB318 via component at 1080i upconvert
Dishnet (1080i output) model 921 dual tuner DVR via DVI
Boston Acoustic 5.1 Speakers
Yamaha A/V Receiver HT-5450

Guys, I don't mean to repeat myself, but colour issues and gray scale issues are completely different. CUTs and DRVs affect gray scale, not colour, and therefore can not correct "red push". If you're seeing a reddish/greenish/bluish "hue" to your greys, than by adjusting CUTs and DRVs this can be corrected. Again, if you're seeing it with dark scenes, than adjust the CUTs, with "whites", adjust the DRVs. IF you put up an AVIA 30 IRE pattern and adjust the CUTs and a 80IRE pattern and adjust the DRVs (copy down your original settings) you'll see what I mean.

If you're seeing red push, than this can't be corrected via the CUTs and DRVs, only via the colour decoder parameters which have been put back into the H84 line (can't correct it with the H81, 82, 83 lines has there are not colour decoder parameters in the SM).

Unfortunately I have an HX83 and can't comment on what parameters in the H84 series to use to correct red push.

Cheers,

PBC

Oh ... a good example would be to switch to Sports mode and see what this does to your greens. I believe Toshiba adjusted the internal colour decoder to do something to green to make it appear more flourescent. You can't "correct" this by adjusting GCUT when in movie mode for instance.

Regards,

PBC

Originally posted by pbc
Great looking system Pittdog ...


Thanks alot! I know it's modest by alot of peoples standard on this forum, but i thoroughly enjoy the heck out of it.:D

I recently had the cable card tuner in my 51h94 replaced as per a Toshiba recall problem. Now i am getting what ill call a flickering or vibrating display on certain screens its most noticeable when you bring up the grid to set converge each little "square" is jumping or flickering on the screen. i can even notice it from my couch at about 10ft and it really shows up when you bring up the input selection window you can see the edges flickering.

Anyone else have this or seen this on there tv either h84 or h94 (same thing minus cc tuner) i need ammo when the genius sears tech shows back up on Monday

Originally posted by hofs1
I recently had the cable card tuner in my 51h94 replaced as per a Toshiba recall problem. Now i am getting what ill call a flickering or vibrating display on certain screens its most noticeable when you bring up the grid to set converge each little "square" is jumping or flickering on the screen. i can even notice it from my couch at about 10ft and it really shows up when you bring up the input selection window you can see the edges flickering.

Anyone else have this or seen this on there tv either h84 or h94 (same thing minus cc tuner) i need ammo when the genius sears tech shows back up on Monday


Make sure you are receiving a signal through either DVD player, cable, etc.
If you have no source playing on your set, then some menus and the convergence grid will tend to jump around a bit. Just enter the convergence grid either in user menu or Service menu while you are watching something on the set and all should be STILL:cool: .

Anyone have a loose outside trim around their screen? My (silver) trim in the top center is very loose. It moves up and down and out of the groove that's made for it where it meets with the rest of the top/back black part of the TV. I place it back in place and press, but I did'nt want to over exert anything.

I actually tried it on all active inputs and it still flickers when in convergence mode the thing is i dont remember it doing this before the tuner was replaced, and im sure the whole picture was sharper and clearer even the true hd stuff is not as sharp as before, gues ill see what the tech thinks should be fun.

I did a search but didn't find the answer:

How should the protective glare screen be cleaned? My 5 year old has her fingerprints on it. I'm guessing you shouldn't spray Windex on it and wipe it clean?

Just use a soft cotton cloth dampened with water. Never use windex. I saw at Futureshop here in Canada that Monster has some product for cleaning screens. Never tried it though.

PBC

Leave it to Monster to create yet another product that no one needs. I swear that company has meetings that must go something like this:

Monster Manager: Ok gang, we need to sell lots of product!
Monster Employees: But we make the same s**t everyone else does, only we charge 10x as much for it.
MM: Ok, then we need to convince everyone that our s**t is better! How about stuff to clean TV screens?
ME: You mean water? All you need is a damp cloth and...
MM: That's it!! We'll create a product that's BETTER than water!
ME: But sir, a damp cloth cleans the screen just fine. I can't imagine anything that would be 'better'.
MM: Well, it doesn't have to actually BE better. We just have to tell them it's better. And we'll sell a 4oz bottle for $29.95!! HAHA, suckers!
ME: <sigh>

Ok, I'm not bitter....

Wap

I'm curious about an issue I am having with my 46H84. I've noticed several times over the course of 2 months, my tv's picture has snapped on and off with a popping noise. This occurs when watching dvd's or broadcast television.

Also noticed a flicker when watching dvd's...really noticable when black bars are present. Bars will have a bluish tint during the flicker. Aslo noticed that flicker becomes more frequent shortly before the picture snaps off and back on.

I was told at another forum that this is normal for the first 200 hours of use? However, I have to read about any similiar issues at this forum/thread........So, is this a problem that needs a fix(have extended warranty) or will it go away once I get close to the 200 hour mark?

^^ abudabu ^^
I have the same 46H84 set.. My set has done the exact same snap off which is very brief 3 times. I also read on another forum that it has to do with dust on the CRT's or a natural arching or the CRT's that goes away eventually. It happened a couple times one week but this last month it hasn't happened once! (Fingers crossed). But, I'm praying it does't happen anymore. My set is about 4 months old with 300+ hours. I don't recall some of the flickering your mentioning though. Good luck.

Couple notes:

First a question. On the 51h83, does the one touch focus adjust anything besides convergence, like the actual focus of the guns? I've been having issues with a soft picture on DVDs, and after hitting the button and doing a 9-point, I swear that it's sharper than just doind a 9-point. Am I making this up?

2- I uploaded a picture of my setup, per pittdog's request. I need to make it look a little nicer, but functionally, everything is measured and set. Not my speaker stands, best speaker stands ever designed.

3- If you are experiencing 60-cycle hum, check out the sticky FAQ at the top of the audio theory forum. I was able to identify the problem (hu went away when I disconnected the cable from the wall), but I haven't been able to "fix" it yet.

Just as a follow up on the remote, although it is an extremely minor issue. I got the Sony RM-AV3000 at a price I couldnt pass up. After programming, learning, and 'macroing' (I made that up, pretty good huh?) it works great. Everything I need it to do and more. Love the light up lcd touch screen no complaints, only jollies. BTW Eagles rule!

2- I uploaded a picture of my setup, per pittdog's request.


Pics look great. How tall is your freakin' ceiling?!?!

Originally posted by pittdog1
Pics look great. How tall is your freakin' ceiling?!?!
Aaah HA! I knew that tv looked too small, I was wondering why. Good call, but nice setup, interesting speakers, how do they sound?

BTW who watched the Eagles win? And who watched the beautiful CBS broadcast on their H83/84? jesus it looked unbelievable on my 46H84.

BTW who watched the Eagles win? And who watched the beautiful CBS broadcast on their H83/84? jesus it looked unbelievable on my 46H84.

SSJ, I watched most of both games and CBS really does a great job on their games. I hope you won't be to disappointed though when the Patsy's win again. Not rooting for them really, lived in Mass. for a while, but they just look to good.

Originally posted by AlbanyHDTV
How should the protective glare screen be cleaned? My 5 year old has her fingerprints on it. I'm guessing you shouldn't spray Windex on it and wipe it clean? We've still got those infant washclothes that I use to clean my screen with. They're very soft and (hopefully) non-abrasive. That and water is all you should need.

On this subject, if you wear glasses you should know what I'm talking about, you can guy "eyeglass cleaning kits" that's nothing more than some "special" cleaning solution and a 3x3 cloth. I've used this on mine before with no problems. Has anyone else tried it ?? You can buy these things at Wal-Mart in their optical "stores" for just under $2.00. The bottle is refillable for free too !

I watched the first game in HD but could'nt get CBS in HD for my second game through my Dish 811 receiver although my other 811 gets CBS and this does'nt!?!

I've had my 65H84 for about a week and I'm liking it alot. Watched Hockey and did'nt see the white line, so that's good. I'm thinking I should have went with a bigger screen though. Maybe the Mits' 70+ size. Oh well. Still very happy. Adjusted the setting with AVIA and looks a lot better. Hooked up my new 59AVi to it as well. WOW!. Can't wait for an ISF next month!

Thanks to this thread that made my decision.

Originally posted by cissado
I watched the first game in HD but could'nt get CBS in HD for my second game through my Dish 811 receiver although my other 811 gets CBS and this does'nt!?!

I've had my 65H84 for about a week and I'm liking it alot. Watched Hockey and did'nt see the white line, so that's good. I'm thinking I should have went with a bigger screen though. Maybe the Mits' 70+ size. Oh well. Still very happy. Adjusted the setting with AVIA and looks a lot better. Hooked up my new 59AVi to it as well. WOW!. Can't wait for an ISF next month!

Thanks to this thread that made my decision.
Congrats on your set, Im sure all of us are happy that you made the right decision, btw where did you see hockey? Im on hockey withdrawl miss my flyers!

Originally posted by pittdog1
SSJ, I watched most of both games and CBS really does a great job on their games. I hope you won't be to disappointed though when the Patsy's win again. Not rooting for them really, lived in Mass. for a while, but they just look to good.
Funny going from mediocre at best FOX, to top notch CBS footbal hd broadcast, flipping from each other through post game and pre game was astonishing. Anyway Yes I not expecting the eagles to win, Im just thrilled they finally got to it, first time in my lifetime. Anyway mathematically its a 50-50 chance right..... lol

Not sure where I saw the Hockey. I'm not a follower but when I did see it (last weeks some time) I remembered people talking about Hockey and the white line issue, so I kept it on. The game was not regular teams, it was sorta like a "North/South" type thing or maybe even a recorded game. Sorry no more info. Watched 5 minutes.

Also, the Pats are a 7.5 point favorite I believe. So that's not a 50/50 chance. lol

I'd really like to ask this question again... My silver frame around the screen is loose at the top center. Is that normal? Is everyone's tight and in place? Mine pops in and out when I ush on it. I did'nt want to call Toshiba for a "small" complaint like that, but I think it moves the screen when I push it in and out of the top groove of the TV. Anyone?

In our AlbanyHDTV forum (http://albanyhdtv.proboards18.com/index.cgi?board=boxes&action=display&num=1098258853), we have had two unsuccessful and one successful attempt to hook up a SciAtl 8300HD DVR via it's HDMI out to a Toshiba 57H83 DVI in.

I have been both unsuccessful and successful. For a few weeks in December it worked, and then it stopped working for no apparent reason.

One member posted that he didn't get it to work, but then hooked up a DVD player with the same cable to the DVI on his Toshiba. So, that leads me to believe that it is not the Toshiba. (Yes, the HDMI out port on the DVR is enabled)

I was hoping someone else was having this problem and figured out what the fix was. Anyone?

I'm going to be receiving this 8300HD DVR this week from TW cable. I will try to get an HDMI/DVI adaptor for mine and try it out. I have heard though that hooking it up this way negates the pass through feature which is important to me.

Originally posted by cissado
Not sure where I saw the Hockey. I'm not a follower but when I did see it (last weeks some time) I remembered people talking about Hockey and the white line issue, so I kept it on. The game was not regular teams, it was sorta like a "North/South" type thing or maybe even a recorded game. Sorry no more info. Watched 5 minutes.

Also, the Pats are a 7.5 point favorite I believe. So that's not a 50/50 chance. lol

I'd really like to ask this question again... My silver frame around the screen is loose at the top center. Is that normal? Is everyone's tight and in place? Mine pops in and out when I ush on it. I did'nt want to call Toshiba for a "small" complaint like that, but I think it moves the screen when I push it in and out of the top groove of the TV. Anyone?
I know I know its not truly a 50-50 chance, but they can either lose or win right 50-50 then? HEHEHE

In any case, my top frame is pretty sturdy, although Ive seen many RPTV's CRT's, DLP's and LCD's alike with some loose frames usually on the top but sometimes on the bottom as well. SO if doesnt bother you well of course then dont worry about it, but if it does you might want to consider returning it or some how getting it back into place somehow...?..?.?

Originally posted by pittdog1
I'm going to be receiving this 8300HD DVR this week from TW cable. I will try to get an HDMI/DVI adaptor for mine and try it out. I have heard though that hooking it up this way negates the pass through feature which is important to me.
What happened to your moto dvr?

Heh, yeah. I have 12' ceilings. Even have it wrong in the diagram in my gallery (done from memory). Thought they were 10, but they are 12. They slant inward also at about 10 degrees, so I can't really even hang pictures or posters. Just a big white wall, will be good for backlighting though.

The speakers are JBL S38II, love them. The are from the heralded studio series that was discontinued several years back. They are based on the design of JBL's studio monitors, and I bought them primarily for listening to music, though they have found a home in my theater.

Right now, since I live in an apartment, I'm running them w/o a sub. My room has heavy oak doors, so I can close it off entirely. Bass response is very good for music, but lacks in the home theater rumble department, just dosn't hit 30hz. Keeps the nieghbors happy though.

I believe the current E50 is a similar speaker, but I haven't done any critical listening. If they are anything like the s38 though, keep an eye open for a good deal on a pair. If you have the space for them (they are very big for bookshelves), they offer great sound, full, balanced, and loud with only minimal power requirements.



Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Aaah HA! I knew that tv looked too small, I was wondering why. Good call, but nice setup, interesting speakers, how do they sound?

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
What happened to your moto dvr?

I didn't have a Motorola , it was a SA 8000HD DVR. I've still got it and it works ok, a few quirks. After reading about the newer 8300 model i decided to call TW to see if they had any in this market yet and they said they are getting them in this week. Lots more feature and a better unit overall i am told.:D

Did you get it yet?

Hi I just got around to hooking up my xbox to the H84 and to the surround sound system...I noticed that there is not to much differnce between the FULL and THEATERWIDE 1 setting....nothing appears to be getting cut off with TW1, just seems bigger. Now appearing bigger, means it zooming in, which i cant tell from where, i checked on madden 2005 and everything looked ok to me.

So my question people with xbox and the H84 what setting do u run on xbox on. Thanks

[i]I'd really like to ask this question again... My silver frame around the screen is loose at the top center. Is that normal? Is everyone's tight and in place? Mine pops in and out when I ush on it. I did'nt want to call Toshiba for a "small" complaint like that, but I think it moves the screen when I push it in and out of the top groove of the TV. Anyone? [/B]

I just pulled and pushed a little on my frame top and it seems solid. I think there must be a defect of some sort with yours. If it causes screen deformation I would definately get it fixed. I'm glad to hear you don't have the line, though, because my 65" has it. (I'm loving it otherwise, though!)

Originally posted by atye
I just pulled and pushed a little on my frame top and it seems solid. I think there must be a defect of some sort with yours. If it causes screen deformation I would definately get it fixed. I'm glad to hear you don't have the line, though, because my 65" has it. (I'm loving it otherwise, though!)

I faxed my receipt to Toshiba warranty 2 days ago. They have to get back to me with a call and send out a service tech. I'll feel really stupid if it just pops in, but I tried and did'nt want to force it too much and risk breaking it.

I hope I can fix it BEFORE the ISF guy comes.

Originally posted by AlbanyHDTV
I have been both unsuccessful and successful. For a few weeks in December it worked, and then it stopped working for no apparent reason. Is it possible that your cable provider had software that enabled DVI and then pulled it because they were having problems with it ??

Look in the HDTV Recorders forum, if you don't already, and see if there's a TWC-8300HD thread going (yet) or not.

Originally posted by cissado
I faxed my receipt to Toshiba warranty 2 days ago. They have to get back to me with a call and send out a service tech. I'll feel really stupid if it just pops in, but I tried and did'nt want to force it too much and risk breaking it.

I hope I can fix it BEFORE the ISF guy comes.

My 57h84 has the same thing with the bezel. I noticed it when I first got it but it doesn't appear to mess up the picture. I just left it alone.

I love this thread. I bought my first ever big screen and my first HD set a few months ago. I got the 46H84, and I love it. Thanks to everyone for all the useful info.
I have two questions which are probably very easy for most of you to answer. I am using a Panasonic DVD player which is NOT progressive scan. I have read that some displays do their own line doubling or something like that. My understanding is that progressive scan is not as important if you have such a set. Does the 46H84 have something like that? Or would progressive scan be a noticeable improvement for me?
Second, does connecting your DVD player via HDMI make a difference with this set versus using component? I've also heard that the difference is very minimal.
As you can tell from these questions, I'm very new to this stuff. But I keep reading and learning. Thanks again.

Tom

Originally posted by T-Bit
I love this thread. I bought my first ever big screen and my first HD set a few months ago. I got the 46H84, and I love it. Thanks to everyone for all the useful info.
I have two questions which are probably very easy for most of you to answer. I am using a Panasonic DVD player which is NOT progressive scan. I have read that some displays do their own line doubling or something like that. My understanding is that progressive scan is not as important if you have such a set. Does the 46H84 have something like that? Or would progressive scan be a noticeable improvement for me?
Second, does connecting your DVD player via HDMI make a difference with this set versus using component? I've also heard that the difference is very minimal.
As you can tell from these questions, I'm very new to this stuff. But I keep reading and learning. Thanks again.

Tom

The H84 series converts all signals to either 540p or 1080i the choice is yours. Progressive scan DVD's will not get you much, however they are pretty cheap right now so it wouldn't hurt. HDMi vs Component would probably not be noticable either. Just my opinion.

Originally posted by dm145
My 57h84 has the same thing with the bezel. I noticed it when I first got it but it doesn't appear to mess up the picture. I just left it alone.

Hey thanks, and I noticed you're from Clifton as well. That's the third person on this board so far I've noticed. Hey neighbor! lol

Hello all,

Can anyone read this post and offer advice for me on how
to setup the best picture, using components, between a
LGDVB418 and 42H83?

For some reason I am able to use 720P resolution mode on the
DVD player but I am not sure if the TV is upconverting it to 1080i
by itself or I am only seeing 480p.

Doe the Service menu on my TV offer the option to switch between
720p or 1080i?

Here is my original thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=501771


Thanks,

Shinobi1

The 42H83 upconverts 720p signals to 1080i. Further, it upconverts 480i and 480p to 540p. The only two resolutions that are output by the 42H83 are 540p and 1080i.

Regards,

PBC

Sorry ... to confirm, there is no choice in the service or user menus with the 42H83 as to what you want to upconvert (unlike the larger '83 models and the 84 models in which you can choose whether to convert 480i/480p signals to 540p or 1080i).

Regards,

PBC

I really should learn to read your whole post before having to answer three times!

I believe that particular LG unit (if the build date is pre July 2004) is best used in 1080i mode directly to your TV. MTLV (in his article at Keohi) praises this players ability to upconvert to 1080i via component so sounds like the way to go.

PBC

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Did you get it yet?


Now come on SSJ, you know me better than that. If i had it all ready i'd either be bitchin' about it or braggin' about it.:D
They told me this past weekend they were expecting them in this week and they'd call me to pick it up once it was in. Still Waitin'!

PBC,

Thanks for the helpful response. I am going to try and play the LG in 1080i mode to see if there is any difference.


On the side note, I have this weird shift problem on the television that happened recently. My 42H83 is having this weird upshift problem where it seems that in all viewing modes (full, theater 1-3) that the black bar is thicker at the bottom then the top. Any ideas?

-Shinobi1

Originally posted by pittdog1
Now come on SSJ, you know me better than that. If i had it all ready i'd either be bitchin' about it or braggin' about it.:D
They told me this past weekend they were expecting them in this week and they'd call me to pick it up once it was in. Still Waitin'!
Your a funny guy. Well Ill be bragging about my HTPC in about a week. Going to get some radeon graphics card hooked up with hdmi, going down that route. Should be nice, but you better be braggin' about your 83000 or else! Thats right OR ELSE! LOL, hey btw Lost last night looked amazing, the golf scene with the grass was nothing but jaw dropping. And if Ihavent mentioned yet, GO EAGLES!

Shinobi (the old Commodore 64 game??),

If it's in all Viewing modes, then check your 56 pt grid. Is the centre line "centred" vertically? If so, then pop in AVIA or some other disk, put in Full Mode, put up a grid, and use VPOS in the Service Menu to adjust the picture so that it is centred.

Not sure why it would have just happened "recently", especially if it's in all modes (e.g., if it was cable, could be box specific).

Regards,

PBC

I plan on, finally, moving up for a Tosh 36" 4:3 direct view, to the 46H84 (taking advantage of BB's, 36 month financing).
I was waiting for cablecard, however now fear tabletop CRT's will soon disappear FOREVER. The 84's have HDMI, so I hope to take the plunge.
My question;
Have any of you 84 (or 83) owners found the component input, to be superior too the HDMI input?
Would I be better suited, from your experience, to use the D/A conversion in the DVD, as apposed too the D/A in the set?
Thanks to all, & glad too see so many glowing reports on the 83's (too badd, I missed those guns!!!) & 84's!

Alright, here's a question. I was just in the 56 point conversion and got everything lined up satisfactorily, or at least as good as I can do. Actually I really only had to make VERY minor adjustments to get it looking good and clean.

I did notice that the bottom right corner of my screen is ever so blurry or soft. I've noticed this for a while actually. It's very subtle but it's there, and I notice it on those rare occasions where there's fine text down in that corner. It detracts nothing from the picture but it's an odd quirk when I notice it.

I assumed it was something that had to do with convergence. But when I got into the grid, this bottom right corner of this grid was definitely a bit hazy compared to the rest, not as clear as the bottom left corner for sure. What could be the problem here?

Hmmm, actually I think I just had some sort of epiphany. I was in the grid again examining the bottom right corner. If I look really hard, I see a bit of a green shadow on the extreme right side of the screen around that slightly ''soft'' area... what could that mean? A green tint to the edge of the white cross. Something to do with the green gun? I made sure not to mess with the green during convergence... but might the green convergence have something to do with this?

Originally posted by revolverjgw
Hmmm, actually I think I just had some sort of epiphany. I was in the grid again examining the bottom right corner. If I look really hard, I see a bit of a green shadow on the extreme right side of the screen around that slightly ''soft'' area... what could that mean? A green tint to the edge of the white cross. Something to do with the green gun? I made sure not to mess with the green during convergence... but might the green convergence have something to do with this?

The green gun is what the others are converged to. So red and blue are converged to cover the green. If you are seeing green, then move the red and blue to see if you can get the green covered up. If the green still is bleeding then you may have a focus issue in that corner. Since it's in the corner, if it's not bad you'll probably never notice it when watching actual material.:)

Update:
A technician is coming tomorrow to observe the line in my 65H84. I'm not sure what will come of it because Toshiba doesn't currently acknowledge the issue in the H84s. I'll keep you posted!

What was your issue again atye?

SSJ, i just sent you a PM.

send it again, except with the full url

I have the 83' and had it hooked up to my cable box with DVI cable. Seemed okay so I left it connected that way for a few weeks. Just for the hell of it I decided to try HD1 again through the component cables. There was a BIG difference, I noticed there weren't as many sharp edges on pictures.

It seemed that when connected through the DVI cable SVM could not be turned off in movie mode. Has anyone else noticed this?

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
What was your issue again atye? I had 2 issues: the bright line and a small purple spot.

The tech came today and as far as I could tell he didn't care if Toshiba authorized the line fix or not, he had the fax I sent with the fix for the H83s, and looked for a similar solution on my TVs circuit board.

He said the layout of the board was different than the 83s, but he was able to find the exact same points on the H84 board and asked me if I wanted him to try it. He said it was highly unlikely to cause any problem, so I said go for it.
Anyway, I've looked at some "problem material" to see if I could still see the line, and so far I can't. Everything else seems OK too. It's too soon to tell but I think the issue has been fixed!

As for the purple spot, he said the green gun needs to be replaced. He even looked directly into the gun (ouch?) to see if he could find it and he did. He said the new gun should be here in about a week, and would take about 2 hours to replace.

At this point I'm happy with what occured, but I'm sort of holding my breath to see if this "fix" has caused anything strange to happen. I'll continue to keep you posted!

Glad the technician is working the problem with you and actually attempted the white line. Thats fantastic to hear. Good luck with the purple spot/green crt replacement.

Yeah, I thought that was strange. I got the impression he fully expects Toshiba to pay for the time it took him to do it, but that's contrary to alot of things I've read here. All I know is I'm not getting a bill for it!

Hello all,

I was recommended to your site by a friend, and after reading A LOT of useful info here, I decided to buy a 46H84 w/stand. I won't ask a question here unless I can't find it in search. I find you all to be most helpful, and I will do my best to contribute.

Thanks:D

Originally posted by GGR
Hello all,

I was recommended to your site by a friend, and after reading A LOT of useful info here, I decided to buy a 46H84 w/stand. I won't ask a question here unless I can't find it in search. I find you all to be most helpful, and I will do my best to contribute.

Thanks:D
Beautiful GGR, beautiful. Youll like the set I know I do. Did you get your tv yet? I have the same tv, check my gallery if you would like. We would love pictures as well. Did you get the toshiba stand?

A Toshiba service tech is coming over tomorrow morning to look at my 65H84. He's gotta check my screen frame and see if it's faulty from shipping or from the unit itself. lol How's he gonna figure that out?

A little reminder... My silver frame around the screen is loose on the top. It keeps popping out of the grove that it supposed to snap into and causes the screen to move when doing that. I called Toshiba to ask them about it and they are sending the tech. He's not coming to fix it, but to "check" if he is supposed to fix it or not.

Qucik question, Are the service tech places supposed to call you at home and make an appointment, or are you supposed to call them when you get authorization from Toshiba for a repair? I was told both things and DID both things because of the timing of the advice from Toshiba. Just wondering which advise was right.

I waited about a week after Toshba said someone (from a Toshiba tech repair place) would call me and I did'nt hear from them, so I called Toshiba back and they said "YOU have to call THEM, and this is their number."OK I must have been misinformed... So I called the number they gave meyesterday and... Then the next day, a service tech DID call me! lol

So if the guy I called yesterday ever calls me back, I'll just cancel. I'm not holding my breathe though.

Long winded, sorry but I know some of you would understand. lol

Originally posted by SSJLaletas
Beautiful GGR, beautiful. Youll like the set I know I do. Did you get your tv yet? I have the same tv, check my gallery if you would like. We would love pictures as well. Did you get the toshiba stand?


Yes I did get the Toshi Stand As well. I will not recieve the set until 2/12/05
The stand will be here a few days before. I have just recently finished installing the surround systems speakers. (Kenwood HTB-707DV) So far so good. I will post some pics of the room.

Originally posted by AlbanyHDTV
In our AlbanyHDTV forum (http://albanyhdtv.proboards18.com/index.cgi?board=boxes&action=display&num=1098258853), we have had two unsuccessful and one successful attempt to hook up a SciAtl 8300HD DVR via it's HDMI out to a Toshiba 57H83 DVI in.

I have been both unsuccessful and successful. For a few weeks in December it worked, and then it stopped working for no apparent reason.

One member posted that he didn't get it to work, but then hooked up a DVD player with the same cable to the DVI on his Toshiba. So, that leads me to believe that it is not the Toshiba. (Yes, the HDMI out port on the DVR is enabled)

I was hoping someone else was having this problem and figured out what the fix was. Anyone?

I posted info over in the HDTV recorder section here also.
Sorry it took a little longer to get this box then what they told me. I recieved it yesterday. Hooked it up (component) and it failed to boot. Got a fail message on the box's display. Needless to say i was pissed. They couldn't even communicate with it via the cablelines:confused: . So they came out today and fiddled with it a bit and said they had never seen this before. The tech pulled out a brand new one and it worked perfectly. After he left i watched some material on it and felt it was quite a bit lacking in the PQ dept. compared to the SA 8000HD DVR it replaced. I had this same situation occur with a Pioneer non-dvr HD box where the DVI looked significantly better than the component out. So, off i ran to BB to look for an adaptor. Found an open box AR DVI/HDMI adaptor for 39 bucks. It's very heavy and is 1ft long(DVI female on one end/thick piece of cable/and HDMI male on other end). Brought it home and hooked it up. Turned the set on first and up popped this message saying "Your set is not HDCP compliant...Yadda-Yadda....
Anyhow, i turned on the 8300 and guess what, it worked flawlessly! I thought that pass through would not work with HDMI connected, but it does. After further reading here i found that it won't pass 480i, but it will pass 480p and that's fine by me. Sending 480p for sd and 1080i for HD works great, it changes on the box's display with no problem.
I also have no problem getting DD audio through coax digital out. Haven't tried optical but probably won't unless somebody wants to know. I hope this helps you out. Like i said, i'm in KC,MO and have TW cable. If you need to know the software that my box is using, send those instructions on how to find it and i'll post it. Also, if you need to know the model of adaptor i'm using it's the AR Master series HDMI to DVI adapter cable model #MS809.
Hope this helps you out!:D

OOPS!, Forgot to mention that the DVI cable itself is the 400 series Monster DVI cable. The fit between the AR Adapter and the Monster DVI cable is perfect, nice and snug and the screw ins on the sides match perfectly.

Pittdog- The green gun is what the others are converged to. So red and blue are converged to cover the green. If you are seeing green, then move the red and blue to see if you can get the green covered up. If the green still is bleeding then you may have a focus issue in that corner. Since it's in the corner, if it's not bad you'll probably never notice it when watching actual material.

Alright, thanks.

Now that I've gotten into the 56 point and saw the grid, it's become obvious that the right edge of the screen, not just the corner, is slightly out of focus compared the the left edge. It's not a big deal... I mean, I didn't even NOTICE until I saw the grid, heh... but now that I've noticed, I find it hard NOT to notice. -_- It's impossible to tell when watching a movie, but I can tell when I play video games if I look hard enough. Now, maybe I should stop ''looking hard enough'', but that's not an option, ha.

Now, would an ISF calibration be able to do something about this imbalance? There's nothing I can do about it in the service menu, like the RCUT stuff, is there?

I'm anal about this stuff, gah. Thanks for your replies.

I tried to go into 56 point convergence but never see a problem. Am I not looking hard enough? How far away do you sit when looking for this stuff? Viewing distance? All the +'s look white to me. It's a new set, but I figured it would need some tweeking and I wanted to do it before the ISF calibration as has been said it needs to be done a few times before that.

If I see all whites, leave it alone? Is there a detailed instruction for this somewhere?

The March 2005 Consumer Reports arrived yesterday, with big-screen TVs the main topic. Of the 9 RP CRT sets tested, the toshiba 51H84 came in next to last, above only the Daewoo. Its picture quality was rated fair, the half-black circle, across the board. Two Sonys and a Panasonic were the top-rated CRT sets; they were also listed as best values.

Of microdisplay RPTVs, three DLP sets were top rated (about the same as the Sony CRTs). The Sony RP LCD set scored poorly.

The only thing Consumer Reports is good for as far as electronics goes, is for repair history. I can see the guy doing the report for these sets" toaster, toaster, vacuum cleaner, yard blower, etc.....Hey, a big screen TV. Now this should be fun!" Get real. They always rate Bose very high and a best value. They wouldn't know their a$$ from a good picture. Reliability records don't lie and they are supposed to have very reliable numbers when it comes to these issues. But when it comes to rating a set based on PQ and such, i would dare say that me or you would be more capable. And i couldn't tell you a thing about a toaster other than whether or not it browns the bread right.LOL

well put

I was thinking f purchasing the 51H84 for $1250 complete, including taxes and delivery. What do the readers of this thread think of this price? The unit will be placed in my basement and will be used 75% for DVD watching and 25% for TV watching. I would hook up a hi-def cable box to the set from Time Warner and run component cables for both he DVD and the cable hook-ups.

Further if anyone has this set and also has Time-Warner cable how is the picture for the non-hi def channels?

By the way of these questions have been answered in the past I apologize, since I have printed out the entire thread but ave only read up through around page 100, and have more than 100 pages to go and only a day or so to make a decision.

Thanks for your help in advance.

As an aside, didn't the Consumer magazine referred to above, previously list the Tosh as the best RPTV?

Regards,

Steven

Originally posted by slawless
As an aside, didn't the Consumer magazine referred to above, previously list the Tosh as the best RPTV? Yes, it did. It was one or two years ago. I don't recall which exact TV it was, but it was the H83 series. I think they picked the 46" as the best....

Originally posted by BIG ED
I plan on, finally, moving up for a Tosh 36" 4:3 direct view, to the 46H84 (taking advantage of BB's, 36 month financing).
I was waiting for cablecard, however now fear tabletop CRT's will soon disappear FOREVER. The 84's have HDMI, so I hope to take the plunge.
My question;
Have any of you 84 (or 83) owners found the component input, to be superior too the HDMI input?
Would I be better suited, from your experience, to use the D/A conversion in the DVD, as apposed too the D/A in the set?
Thanks to all, & glad too see so many glowing reports on the 83's (too badd, I missed those guns!!!) & 84's!

For me, HDMI input is better than component for sure on HD programs.

Originally posted by cissado
I tried to go into 56 point convergence but never see a problem. Am I not looking hard enough? How far away do you sit when looking for this stuff? Viewing distance? All the +'s look white to me. It's a new set, but I figured it would need some tweeking and I wanted to do it before the ISF calibration as has been said it needs to be done a few times before that.

If I see all whites, leave it alone? Is there a detailed instruction for this somewhere?

Same with me.

Most of us do the service menu convergence. It's a nescesity for H83 owners who only have the 9 cross user menu convergence, and it's still better for H84 users as you get a full grid as opposed to 56 crosses. You need to be seated as close as you need to see the crosses clear enough to see any fringing. I sit about 4 feet from the center of my set on a chair(from the kitchen). It is difficult to see any fringing from normal viewing distances unless the convergence is off pretty bad. Alot of people have a hard time seeing the fringing when doing convergence. What you are generally looking for is Red or Blue fringing around the edges of the white crosses. The crosses in general are going to look solid white. What you are looking at is the outside edges of the crosses. Move the convergence in the proper direction to hide all the red and blue inside the white. If you've never had to adjust then you probably don't know what to look for as nobody's convergence is spot on out of the box and even if it were, it would surely drift a bit by now. Take another look with the things i've posted to look for and see if you can see some red and blue now or not. Hope this helps!

did you guys see the hhgregg deal. 46h84 for $997. My buddy just got this tv. Good deal i thought about it but im happy with my 43inch sony and my next upgrade will be front projector.

What settings are you guys using for the picture on the 51H84?

My friend just got one, and has not yet gotten the Avia DVD.

Contrast?Brightness?Etc?

I was asking for a ballpark, so he can turn it down to avoid burn in. and enjoy a decent picture.

I don't any numbers off the top of my head, but the "Movie" pre-set numbers are a step in the right direction. Definitely avoid the "Sports" setting as I believe it has the highest (and harshest) settings.

what are some of the things you like about the 46h84?

what isnt there to like about lol? Its great though, picture is unbelievable, customizable, great black level. So forth and so on, toshiba did a great job I think.

I love it, and am glad I bought it.

....And I don't even have it yet.

Originally posted by GGR
I love it, and am glad I bought it.

....And I don't even have it yet.
Thats classic. BTW this is the first time Im using my bluetooth kybd and mouse, on my 46h84 at the luxory of my bed. Aaah, Im getting lazier every day.

I'm looking at purchasing the 51H84 from Onecall.com. I searched the forum about them and everyone seems happy who's ordered from them. None of my local shops can come close to their price but without reading through the whole thread I see people talking about the "line"

Is this the same kind of line thats on Trinitron monitors in the middle? Also any last reservations from ordering from Onecall?

You'll be very happy with OneCall.

Tim

Thanks Tim,

I'm guessing you've had personal experience.

I had earlier been interested in the 46h84, but began to focus on lcd proj. or dlp. When I saw this monster thread on the toshiba, my interest picked up again! Does the toshiba display 720p? do you think I'd be better off with the Toshiba and several hundred saved dollars until the reliability factor on these new sets become more stable? How is the toshiba on standard def. programming? I really appreciate your responses, advoce, and recommendations!

Alton,

This is my personal opinion and how I view things. The 51H84 has been out for quite some time and is now a proven set. You can tell by the threads and especially this one. Not only are LCD/DLPs out of my price range I would feel uncomfortable purchasing something that isn't quite proven yet. Going this route you know what you're getting into not to mention much cheaper. You can take that extra money and buy a HT system if you don't already have one and if you do upgrade ;)

I guess I'm at a time in my life where I just don't want the latest and greatest for several reasons. Price for one. Another is technology has come so far in the past 10 years that last years technology is so good it's still incredible. To be quite honest I went into the TV section at Best Buy last night and they only had 4 (yes four) regular RPTVs. Everything else was DLP/LCD.

Well only two more days until my 46H84 is delivered. I can't wait!!!
I get all the furniture delivered tonite, and I have already set up my Harmony 676. I'm going crazy waiting on this set. Without you guys and this forum I think I would of already went over the deep end. As it is, I'm ordering Bass shakers, and a secondary receiver to control them. (info compliments of this forum)

Oh well, I have to spend my money on something. May as well be on entertainment.

I have a couple of pics of the room in the gallery. Check em out.

Anybody using a center speaker stand on top of their TV? I have the 65H84 and the Paradigm Sudio CC speaker seems to be "bending" the top/front screen frame. I saw a stand that was posted before but it did'nt seem the best for my application. It had back leggs but still rested it's whole weight on the front where I'm trying to avoid.

I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem... or does everyone have a stand for their center?

The screen gets affected by this bending and it may reflect in the calibration process.

Thanks for the replies! Is the inability for the tosh 46 to display 720p a big deal or does the 1080i upconversion suffice?

What would the maximum viewing distance from this tv be; I'm limited to a 46" or smaller unit with the crt rear proj. unless i would go with a 50" lcd/dlp set.

CR did not recommend this tosh series in their latest ratings (March, 2005), liking instead the sony and panny models. Is this a detriment to selecting the tosh?

Your response to these questions along with any other pertinent info will be greatly appreciated! I guess what I'm looking for is someone to sell this set to me---make me want to give $1300.00 for it tomorrow! Thanks again for any replies!!

Originally posted by alton britt
Thanks for the replies! Is the inability for the tosh 46 to display 720p a big deal or does the 1080i upconversion suffice?

What would the maximum viewing distance from this tv be; I'm limited to a 46" or smaller unit with the crt rear proj. unless i would go with a 50" lcd/dlp set.

CR did not recommend this tosh series in their latest ratings (March, 2005), liking instead the sony and panny models. Is this a detriment to selecting the tosh?

Your response to these questions along with any other pertinent info will be greatly appreciated! I guess what I'm looking for is someone to sell this set to me---make me want to give $1300.00 for it tomorrow! Thanks again for any replies!!

You probably won't see any difference between 1080i and 720p converted to 1080i. Don't forget that DLP and LCD sets can't do 1080i. They have to convert it to 720p to display it. They both look great on both types of sets converted to the sets native resolution.

I think you might have meant minimum viewing distance but i'll give you my take on it. SSJLaletas(AKA Matt);) , is sitting around 6' and he loves it. I'm sitting around 7 1/2 feet from mine and i love it. So anywhere from a minimum of 6' and a maximum of 8 or 9'. Of course you can sit as far back as you want but then you can't see all the resolution you paid for. What i mean is, if you sit 15' from a 27" analog set, it will look like HD from that distance because you can't see the resolution you are actually getting from that far away.

As far as the CR thing goes, go back one page on this thread and you'll see what i think. Just because a guy(reviewer, insert HA-HA! here) can recommend a toaster, why does that also mean he can recommend a big screen TV? See what i mean. By the way i believe Toshiba was at or near the top last year in CR.:D

Throw your CR out in the trash, its barely worth anything. The Toshy accepts 720p and upconverts it to 1080i, almost indistingishable.

As for the center speaker, Im blessed that mine isnt bending. You might want to consider building a small shelf coming out from the wall that is just barely higher than the tv set, paint it black to match the set, just a consideration.

BTW GGR kewl pics, looks like its going to be nice.

If i could do it over again, i would of purchased from Onecall opposed to Goodguys.

Originally posted by cissado
Anybody using a center speaker stand on top of their TV? I have the 65H84 and the Paradigm Sudio CC speaker seems to be "bending" the top/front screen frame. I saw a stand that was posted before but it did'nt seem the best for my application. It had back leggs but still rested it's whole weight on the front where I'm trying to avoid.

I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem... or does everyone have a stand for their center?

The screen gets affected by this bending and it may reflect in the calibration process.

I have the exact setup you do. The studio CC weighs 42 lbs! It was also bending the top of my 65H84. So I installed a shelf on the wall directly behind the tv. The shelf is 16 inches deep and the speaker fits perfectly. Worked out great for me.

Originally posted by seadragon
I have the exact setup you do. The studio CC weighs 42 lbs! It was also bending the top of my 65H84. So I installed a shelf on the wall directly behind the tv. The shelf is 16 inches deep and the speaker fits perfectly. Worked out great for me.

Thanks, a lot of people seem to be doing that, I see. I have a big picture window directly behind my TV and cannot put a shelf there. I'm thinking of putting a bracket BEHIND the silver frame and just rest it on the black portion of the TV towards the back of the set. The back part seems sturdier.

I did'nt realize the speaker was that heavy. 42 pounds! wow lol

Anyway, glad I at least found another person who's had the same problem.

Well, I am about thisclose to getting a 57H84. I went to Best Buy tonight to take another look at them. They only had an H94 but since it was the same picture I got a good idea of what it would look like. I had my mind set on a Hitachi F510 before I saw the Toshiba and now I'm torn. To me the PQ on both sets look incredible. I just wish I knew how the reliabilty is on the Toshiba. As far as physical looks go, the Toshiba wins hands down. The silver front on the Hitachi looks cheap to me.

I mainly went there tonight to see if I could find this "line" that some have talked about on the Toshibas. I stared (happily) at the Toshiba for over 20 minutes and didn't see any line at all :confused:. It's not like the Sony Trinitron line that's on my computer monitor. I can easily pick that one out. The Toshiba just looks damn good.

Hello,

This is my first time post in this thread. I have an 57H83 with two problems.

1. In 1080i, jail-bars occurs every now and then. I understand that Toshiba has no solution for this. Is this still the case?

2. In 720p, both through component and DVI, there is a thin vertical bar that appear in the middle of the screen that is lighter than the rest of the screen. Under normal viewing it is barely perceptible. On black backgrounds, such as ending credits, it can sometimes be easily seen. Has anyone experienced the same problem?? This occurs with all 720p sources that I've fed to the TV (HD cable box feed and 2 upconverting DVD players), so I'm sure its the TV.

I have 9 days left on my 1-year warranty so I will call a Toshiba service center tomorrow. My only concern is that the 720p problem won't be perceptible except in a darkened room. Also, what should be my expectations to have this problem fixed? Just want to have decent HD, but both resolutions on my TV have problems.

Thanks in advance.

Vince

For your center speaker, have you considered putting it on a small stand directly under and in front of the screen angled upward slightly? I am still considering this approach for my system as I'd like to put my dvd player and a future HD reciever on the top shelf of my 51h83.

Originally posted by eugovector
For your center speaker, have you considered putting it on a small stand directly under and in front of the screen angled upward slightly? I am still considering this approach for my system as I'd like to put my dvd player and a future HD reciever on the top shelf of my 51h83.

I have considered that as my CC faces upwards anyway. I actually put something behind it now to face it down. My 3 year old daughter likes to touch everything, we call it "exploring" lol so I'd rather leave it on top and out of reach. We have our set up in the Living room and not in a dedicated theater room. thanks for the reply.

I did something similar with my center channel.
Since I was already using mounts for the speakers, to mount them on the wall and had a couple left.
I screwed a mount in the stand behind the dropdown door. (46H84 Stand)
and angled the center upwards. Now it's totally hidden and sounds good to boot.

I really appreciate the responses to my inquiries! I've been reading most of the posts here on the tosh-crt-h forum and on the tosh-dlp-hm forum. I've narrowed my choices to the 46h84 for $1300 and the 46hm84 for $2200. Please help me make my decision! I would also like to hear reasons for the purchase of each set.
Thank you!!!

I just purchased the 51h83,mfg 2/04. Trying to get to service menu for the 56pt. can't seem to get based directions from this thread. Could Tosh locked this in later models? I am using the Toshiba remote switched to TV. Is there another method.

BTW, using Avia Disk, my settings are:

contrast 30
Bright 38
Color 56
Tint -5
Sharp 36.

Thanks for your help.

Sorry for the question. i found the servie men on the 51h83. i will do the convergence, based on pittdog's posts. Thanks.

Great, i was about to direct you to some of those. Good Luck, be careful and if you have any questions PM me or ask them back here and me or another member will help you out. At any time if you think you screwed up anything just power the set off with the power button on the set. When you turn it back on a few seconds later it will be out of SM and back to the way it was before you entered it.

I have a Toshiba 65H84 and would like to do the "service menu" detailed convergence. Can you tell me where to find instructions on how to do this? I've searched this site, but can't find specific instructions. Thank you.

12/20/04 at 12:24PM. Date and time of post on this thread and the posts after it has info on the service menu. I know there are others but this will get you started.

*edit*** "convergence" is what you needed. The posts were only on accessing Service Menu. My bad.

Originally posted by slawless
I was thinking f purchasing the 51H84 for $1250 complete, including taxes and delivery. What do the readers of this thread think of this price?

Further if anyone has this set and also has Time-Warner cable how is the picture for the non-hi def channels? Steven

I've had my 51H84 for about a week and I could not be more pleased. I paid 1400 total for mine so your deal is great.

I run with Adelphia HD/DVR8000. I use Color Stream 1 (component) for digital channels, HD
channels. Color Stream 2 for the DVD, and antenna 1 for SD. Using Ant. 1 for analog allows me to go out to my cable splitter and adjust it for the best non digital picture. I can actually receive a very good picture this way. I don't think you will have any regret if you go through with the purchase.

Originally posted by kevinjoho
What settings are you guys using for the picture on the 51H84?

I was asking for a ballpark, so he can turn it down to avoid burn in

I temporarily have mine set at:
Contrast 44
Tint 0
All others at 50. I do adjust some for different channels and shows. I plan on using Avia later this afternoon and will post what numbers I get from that.

Thanks Pittdog, I have done the red gun convergence. Need to do Blue and Green. My Red color is still a little bright, i am wondering if I should adjust the RCUT, Howevr my setting is 7EH for the 51h83, i know others have said their setting was a number. Do you think I should adjust based on letters, i,e, the "E" of the 7EH is what moves when I adjust.

BTW, my settings using AVIA are :

Contrast 30
Bright 39
Color 60
Tint -5
Sharp 36

The color does seem bright, but they work with the filters. Should I take RCUT down? Thanks for the help.

Bob

Green should only be adjusted for geometry errors. Otherwise, just move red and blue to the green and leave green alone. Your numbers look pretty good for settings. Most of the guys who changed values in the SM to reduce red have the H84 series. My set is the H83 as well as yours. I've never had any red problems with mine. One thing i can tell you is to set your Color Temperature on medium as low is to red. This is pretty much true on everyone's H83 set i've spoken with. I never did really here from anyone here if low or medium seems the most nuetral with the H84's. Try changing your color temp from low to medium before you change anything in the SM and see if that corrects the red problem.

Thanks pittdog

I noticed yesterday that when watching 4:3 material that the left-hand pillar is slightly wider than the right-hand pillar. I doubt it's from my set-top box, but I can connect an antenna to be sure (or play a non-widescreen DVD .... would that work ??).

Is this something *I* can adjust (fairly easily) ?? I have NOT ventured into the service menu and unless this is a fairly simple adjustment in there, I probably will pass on it.

hall, if you have AVIA or DVE they have an overscan pattern on them that will show you if your picture is to far in any direction.