All I can say is I bought my 51H83 was a 3 month old floor model and that was a year and a half ago. Nothing but praise from me. I actually suggest buying a floor model if possible. Check it out of course but the set has already been pre broken in for you so you can do what you want from the get go.

I managed to get an open box 46H84 for only $800 after tax from Best Buy. I've had the set for about 20 days now, and I've come across a problem that maybe someone can solve.

I play a lot of Halo 2. Yes I know about burn in, but I try to spend a lot of time watching TV or DVDs in between gaming sessions. Anyhoo, once, late at night I was playing Halo2 and suddenly the TV seemed to turn off and then back on, but really fast, faster than I could possibly turn the set off then on. The whole ordeal lasted less than a second, so I didn't think anything of it. Then about a week later, it happened again but lasted a little longer, but still faster than I could do it. My TV was plugged in the same outlet that my WiFi adapter was, and so I thought maybe, since both times it happened while on Xbox Live, the outlet couldn't take the power consumption (even though my house is only 4 years old). Its been three days since removing the WiFi power and giving my TV its own outlet, and I haven't had a problem. Could this of solved my problem? Is this something I should really worry about, is it common. Remember, I still have like a week of warranty, so any ideas would be appreciated.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it. When you unplugged the TV it probably reset itself. It could have been hiccuping from a power surge. Use an adequate surge protector and you should be OK.

If you are in doubt though you may wish to buy an extended warranty,

And that sounds like an excellant deal to me the price.

okay, my eyes hurt from reading this awesome post. my 46H84 will be here next week. has anyone found an awesome upconverting dvd player to run with it? preferably one that can play sacd also. i saw this has been touched upon in this thread, but has anyone found one that they think really is awesome?

okay, my eyes hurt from reading this awesome post. my 46H84 will be here next week. has anyone found an awesome upconverting dvd player to run with it? preferably one that can play sacd also. i saw this has been touched upon in this thread, but has anyone found one that they think really is awesome?


I have a 65HX93 Tosh, bought about 15 months ago. Last week I bought a OPPO 971 and connected it via DVI (I dont know what the H84 series has DVI or HDMI) but if you have DVI, the OPPO gives great picture quality for pretty reasonable price. I have some issue with audio sync, but that seems to not affect everyone, and OPPO so farhas released a few firmware updates and hopefully will continue until they resolve the audi sync problem. There is a K. Golding here who also has this and might respond.

Rick

i have been intending to get the sony 520 but locally the tosh 51h84 is on sale again so i may switch

i have read many reviews of this set on the web and they quite literally fall into 2 categories either:

a) this set is awesome, picture quality is unrivalled, the best...or

b) this set is a piece of junk, popping sounds, white lines, picture goes black etc

i get the feeling that buying the 51h84 will be pretty much like buying a lottery ticket where you will get a great set or a lump of plastic

what gives?
what am i missing?

I've had my 51h84 for about 5 months now and have really enjoyed it. PQ is great on most SD channels and analog is pretty good (Don't watch much analog). HD is superb and Progressive Scan DVD play is excellent. I finally have the settings where they are the most appealing after Avia calibration 3 times and then adjusting from those settings to what I like. I do regular convergence regularly. I had what appeared to be some red push but cleared that up with an attenuator and have not experienced any of the problems you listed. 5 months is not a long time but so far so good. A beautiful display.

That Oppo is pretty sweet. Good price and it blows em away on the DVD Benchmark Shootout. I wish it had SACD. I really need to be able to hear Dark Side of the Moon in 5.1 :)

I have been considering the Samsung HD941 because of the $130 price and the SACD capability. I've seen mixed reviews on the Sammy, anyone got opinons on it here? Maybe wrong place for this post, but my concern is how if it plays well with the H84...

Can't wait to get it!

okay, my eyes hurt from reading this awesome post. my 46H84 will be here next week. has anyone found an awesome upconverting dvd player to run with it? preferably one that can play sacd also. i saw this has been touched upon in this thread, but has anyone found one that they think really is awesome?

The Panasonic ES10 DVD recorder works really well with my 46H84. The reds are not exagerated using this player.

Protective screen layer on 46HX83 (cinema series) can not be removed. 3 layers in bezel of tv but the outer layer (appears to be glass or at least glasslike) is built in to the bezel. An additional anomaly, tork screws (T-20) hold much of the chassis together after speaker cover removed. I was expecting the phillip screws (1/4 hex size) described on this thread by others removing their outer screen. FWIW, the other 2 screen layers looked to be as described by others-middle layer dark and textured-inner screen smooth and opaque.

Not sure if this true of all cinema series 83's or just the 46" but wanted to mention for benefit of others. I seem to remember that the cinema series had a different screen and perhaps different guns than the theatrewide models.

I should have known better than to try and improve upon a picture that was incredible to begin with. And looking back, when I ran into the torks I should have known better.

I followed the instructions on this thread to put it back together and all is well.

Okay, does anyone here know how long after buying a TV from BestBuy you can still purchase an extended warranty?

Okay, does anyone here know how long after buying a TV from BestBuy you can still purchase an extended warranty?

You should probably just call them. Seems like the most direct way to find an answer to your question.

Okay, does anyone here know how long after buying a TV from BestBuy you can still purchase an extended warranty?

I believe you have 2 weeks after the purchase date to get the Best Buy extended warranty.

I haven't seen anything about how you can tell if your having a brownout, or your TV is screwed up. I recently purchased an open box Toshiba 46H84 at BestBuy. The unit is in perfect condition, and the manager said that they were taking it out to display when they had a price cut to $999, and someone else had already done so, but they couldn't sell the unit new. Anyhoo, a few days after putting the TV in my bedroom, I was playing some Halo 2 when all of a sudden the TV shut off and turned back on almost instantly, much faster than I could possibly turn it off then on. The whole ordeal lasted less than a second. Then, about a week later, it happened again. Although I noticed in the split second the screen flashed a dark green. So at that point, I unplugged my wireless adapter that was in the same outlet as the TV. And so far it had done really well. Unitll tonight, when it happened again. Let me stress that this happens each time for less than a second, it is almost instant. My TV is plugged in an outlet all by itself, but on the outlet on the other wall, I have a cheap RCA surge protector that powers a DVD player, xbox, gamecube, N64, and wireless adapter. I live in a new house (3 years, first owners), and I never have experienced these problems before, and we have a 51H81 downstairs with 800W surround, and I also never experienced any of this on my old 20" Flatscreen Toshiba in my room. The first time it happened, I thought my central AC kicked on, and that is why I didn't think anything of it, but I'm pretty certain that the AC wasn't kicking on the second two times.

Let me stress that I'm only 16 and that is the reason for my lack of a good UPS and why my TV is connected directly to the outlet. Money is tight, but I'm desperatly trying to piece together a HT in my room so my audio video experience can be good. Yes I'm a nerd and young and poor, but everyone has to start somewhere. But if my TV were to crap out on me, it would be a pretty devestating blow, as I could never afford to fix it.

So, my question to you is: What do you think the problem is? Am I having frequent brownouts? What should I do? Is it my power connection or my TV?

I need answers fast, as my 30 day return ends on Wed. the 20th. Also, does anyone know how late after buying a TV from BestBuy you can buy an extended warrenty, and how much would it cost? Because I've only got $20 to my name, and my brakes just went out, lol, so money is of importance.

Thanks for any help.

Since both the H83 and HX93 were susceptible to the "white line" problem...

And since the H84 is clearly susceptible to the "white line" problem...

Is it not fair to assume that the HX94 is also susceptible to the "white line" problem? Thanks.

Hey guys... i've had a 57h84 for a few weeks and have been lovin it. The other night while watching some comcast HD via component, there was a pop noise and the screen went black. It came back quickly and looks fine, but now when I turn the set off there is a blue flash that wasn't there before. It also seems like the picture takes an extra second longer to come on when i power it up than it did before.
I have extended service from the store so i can have it serviced if need be, but the picture still looks great so i'm not sure if this is a problem or not...
opinions?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

EDIT: On second and closer inspection, there is some damage to the picture... on a black screen, some blue-ish horizontal line snow is visible with a reddish glow around the edges... It's very faint and hard to see unless it's dark. I hope the service tech sees it cause i'm callin him now!!!

That's what I was trying to explain a few posts prior, "a pop." I don't have an extended warranty, but I am covered under the manufacturer's for another 60 days, tell me if you find anything out...

I just went to BestBuy and compared a Toshiba 46H84 CRT RPTV right next to a similar sized DLP RPTV. I thought the picture quality was comparable, but I have to admit that the 46H84's plastic screen was so reflective it was extremely annoying! It was so hard to see the picture from all of the glare of the lights. The DLP set did not have that problem at all. Any comments?

I just went to BestBuy and compared a Toshiba 46H84 CRT RPTV right next to a similar sized DLP RPTV. I thought the picture quality was comparable, but I have to admit that the 46H84's plastic screen was so reflective it was extremely annoying! It was so hard to see the picture from all of the glare of the lights. The DLP set did not have that problem at all. Any comments?


Yeah, don't light your living room with 5000 watts of florescent bulbs while you're trying to watch a movie. The glare will magically disappear.

Not sure of the 84 model, but on my 46h83, I removed the glare screen fairly easily from tips out here. I watched for a year with the glare. Recommend removal. why do they put these things on in the first place?

... why do they put these things on in the first place?

kids, dogs, cats, careless people.


Tim

Hi, 3 weeks ago I took delivery of a beautiful new 51H84. So far I've been incredibly pleased with it. I did have to invest in some nice curtains for the big window in my living room just to get rid of some nasty glare since my blinds weren't doing a good enough job.

One thing I noticed almost right away is that my set suffered from the same red push that others have complained about, a quick trip to the service menu's fixed that in no time. The one problem I do seem to have is that the blue gun is drifting considerably. I've done a few service menu convergences and I'm aware that for the first month or so things are going to drift because the guns haven't fully settled in yet. Every time I check the convergence from the service menu the Blue seems to peeking out from the Green and Red. The red has barely strayed at all. I know the blue gun is is A LOT less focussed (when perfectly converged I can't see any red sticking out from the grid, but I can see faint blue coming out from either side and after all I've read I can conclude that this is perfectly normal). Is it normal though for the blue to be drifting almost completely out of line with the green grid? (only in very few places) Or should I just hold my breathe for a few more weeks and see if it still drifts after a final convergence?

My other question, the wall my tv backs onto has a vent right where the tv is (it's actually on the wall, not the ground so it's directly facing the back of the tv - it's maybe a foot wide by 8 inches high). The air flow from the vent is not very powerful at all and you can barely feel it when the AC is blasting - should this be a concern? It's lined up with the bottom part of the tv, which I noticed has a lot of ventillation holes. I'm just wondering if this is in any way affecting the guns or any other part of the tv. Like I said it's very little air flow, I just have no where else to position the tv - and the vent doesn't have any way to close it (I don't think I'm supposed to be doing that anyway). Sure others have their CRT RPTV's on or near vents right? I hope I'm just being paranoid as my tv isn't quite "broken in" yet.

Thanks a million

As for blue drifting, I can't help, sorry. I will keep an eye out and give my feedback if I notice one way of the other. As far as the vent, I would think that a little AC would actually help your TV, keeping those bulbs cooler and perhaps lengthening their life. On the other hand, heat in the winter may have the oposite effect, though with the temp in most people's houses below 75 in the winter, probably won't be a huge difference. Short andswer, it shouldn't matter, but pull it out a few inches if you are paranoid.

Oh, you could also seal off that vent with some cardboard.

Hi, 3 weeks ago I took delivery of a beautiful new 51H84. So far I've been incredibly pleased with it. I did have to invest in some nice curtains for the big window in my living room just to get rid of some nasty glare since my blinds weren't doing a good enough job.

One thing I noticed almost right away is that my set suffered from the same red push that others have complained about, a quick trip to the service menu's fixed that in no time. The one problem I do seem to have is that the blue gun is drifting considerably. I've done a few service menu convergences and I'm aware that for the first month or so things are going to drift because the guns haven't fully settled in yet. Every time I check the convergence from the service menu the Blue seems to peeking out from the Green and Red. The red has barely strayed at all. I know the blue gun is is A LOT less focussed (when perfectly converged I can't see any red sticking out from the grid, but I can see faint blue coming out from either side and after all I've read I can conclude that this is perfectly normal). Is it normal though for the blue to be drifting almost completely out of line with the green grid? (only in very few places) Or should I just hold my breathe for a few more weeks and see if it still drifts after a final convergence?

My other question, the wall my tv backs onto has a vent right where the tv is (it's actually on the wall, not the ground so it's directly facing the back of the tv - it's maybe a foot wide by 8 inches high). The air flow from the vent is not very powerful at all and you can barely feel it when the AC is blasting - should this be a concern? It's lined up with the bottom part of the tv, which I noticed has a lot of ventillation holes. I'm just wondering if this is in any way affecting the guns or any other part of the tv. Like I said it's very little air flow, I just have no where else to position the tv - and the vent doesn't have any way to close it (I don't think I'm supposed to be doing that anyway). Sure others have their CRT RPTV's on or near vents right? I hope I'm just being paranoid as my tv isn't quite "broken in" yet.

Thanks a million

I know this maybe a silly qestion but I have a 65H84 on order and have never seen this set in person, Reason for buying it would be the split cabinet design as I dont think they will be able to get a 65" TV up the stairs in my condo unless they split it in 2. But to my question are the front grilles fabric or a hard plastic. Just curious as I have a cat that might like to use it as a scratching post like he does my old Magnavox 41" 11 year old RPTV that refuses to die :). Not much I can do about it but was just curious. Was just kind of curious as the pictures I have seen I just cant tell but it does look like fabric.

Fabric. all toshiba RPCRTs have fabric grills, ... I think...

Fabric. all toshiba RPCRTs have fabric grills, ... I think...


Ok thanks, I thought it looked like fabric.

Hey guys... i've had a 57h84 for a few weeks and have been lovin it. The other night while watching some comcast HD via component, there was a pop noise and the screen went black. It came back quickly and looks fine, but now when I turn the set off there is a blue flash that wasn't there before. It also seems like the picture takes an extra second longer to come on when i power it up than it did before.
I have extended service from the store so i can have it serviced if need be, but the picture still looks great so i'm not sure if this is a problem or not...
opinions?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

EDIT: On second and closer inspection, there is some damage to the picture... on a black screen, some blue-ish horizontal line snow is visible with a reddish glow around the edges... It's very faint and hard to see unless it's dark. I hope the service tech sees it cause i'm callin him now!!!

so the tech took the chassis of the tv back to the shop with him today... i should hear within a couple days what the problem is... anyone else ever have a similar problem? I'm bummed to hear that I may be out of a tv for two weeks!

I have a Toshiba 46H84. Lately the center white line problem has been bothering me. I called toshiba and they gave me the number for the local authorized service provider. When I called him he was unaware of the issue as he only recently became authorized for Toshiba. He talked with Toshiba and then told me that the 46H84 was unaffected by that issue and the suggested that it was burn which of course is not covered by the warranty.

What do I say or do to get Toshiba to fix this problem?

thanks

Oval,

I was really asking why a shiny, mirror like screen is used for the kids, pets, and careless people.

Aren't there more aesthetically pleasing options (like a non-glare)?

chaz01

hey guys, i'm new to this site and RPTV. i have a 51h84 coming tomorrow and i just wanted to ask a couple questions.

1. I have read that it's best to let the TV sit at room temp. for about an hour before turning it on, is this true?

2. How common are the white line and "pop" problems associated with this model?

3. should i do a 56 pt convergence right away?

4. Finally, is 720x480 the only resolution that this TV supports as an HTPC?

I appreciate all the help guys.

Chaz,
I think it just comes to shiny is easier to clean.

Tim

hey guys, i'm new to this site and RPTV. i have a 51h84 coming tomorrow and i just wanted to ask a couple questions.

1. I have read that it's best to let the TV sit at room temp. for about an hour before turning it on, is this true?

2. How common are the white line and "pop" problems associated with this model?

3. should i do a 56 pt convergence right away?

4. Finally, is 720x480 the only resolution that this TV supports as an HTPC?

I appreciate all the help guys.
Its been awhile since I contributed to this thread, who am I kidding its been awhile since Ive been in the Rear Projection forum, mostly hanging around the audio section.

Nonetheless congrats on your 51"

1. Since its summer time I dont think its something to be really concerned about, though maybe waiting 15 mins wont hurt.
2. White line issue is kinda common, but hard to notice unless you have the right image on. As for the pop I have had my 46H84 for 8 months now and have never had a pop.
3. Wait a good 3-4 weeks until doing a full converge, wait til the tubes settle to their final resting place, then do a converge (have the set on for a good 30 minutes before hand).
4. As for HTPC, ive had my PC hooked up to mine, just havent used it for whatever reason, there are also several other guys that have had this. So I think the most common resolution was 1777 x 1000i, thats off the of my head, but it was around that area.

Anyone using the st4663 stand for their 46h83 or 84? I just took my set off of it's 21 1/5" high stand and put it on the floor. The PQ from seating is much better but it's a bit TOO low. Looking for a store in Massachusetts where I may purchase as well.

Thanks in advance.

I've had my Toshiba 51H83 for almost two years now and the white line problem is more noticeable now. Will Toshiba still cover this although its two years old?? If not how much would it cost to get repaired?? Thanks!

Anyone using the st4663 stand for their 46h83 or 84? I just took my set off of it's 21 1/5" high stand and put it on the floor. The PQ from seating is much better but it's a bit TOO low. Looking for a store in Massachusetts where I may purchase as well.

Thanks in advance.

It's not the prettiest, but if you're only looking to raise it less than a foot, I'd just try 2x4s or cinderblocks. Cheap, solid, and it can look nice if you paint or cover with fabric.

The middle of the set needs to be at eye level for optimal viewing-in my case a 15" stand for my 46hx83.I built my own to accommodate the dvd, vcr, etc. Used birch plywood, 2X4's, trim, and castors from Lowes. see: http://www.walt.lasley.com/toshiba.htm

good luck.

I've had my Toshiba 51H83 for almost two years now and the white line problem is more noticeable now. Will Toshiba still cover this although its two years old?? If not how much would it cost to get repaired?? Thanks!

Anyone know the answer??

hi guys,

purchased 46h84 at xmas. great set!

i now have a one and one half inch vert.black band on left side. entire picture seems to have shifted right. reading the instructions, i can't find an adjustment.

is this something i can fix and how...or should i utilize the extend. warr. i purchased.

many thanks in advance.

mike

i now have a one and one half inch vert.black band on left side. entire picture seems to have shifted right.

I have those same problems with my 65NH84. I also have the white line problem sometimes. Let me know if your warranty covers any of this... I suspect that it won't. I had talked with a tech at my house about the white line issue and the shifted picture, but they didn't want to cover it. I didn't push it too much though.

Thanks for the stand replies. I only need 10 to 12". 21" was fine for counter viewing or first walking into the room, but then eye level was at bottom of set looking up. On floor it's at top of set looking down but more into the screen area. Tweak tweak tweak. When does it all end? Maybe when I go to the next technology (maybe not).

Thanks again.

Chaz

Thanks for the stand replies. I only need 10 to 12". 21" was fine for counter viewing or first walking into the room, but then eye level was at bottom of set looking up. On floor it's at top of set looking down but more into the screen area. Tweak tweak tweak. When does it all end? Maybe when I go to the next technology (maybe not).

Thanks again.

Chaz
It never ends, come on chaz you know better!

If you guys can find a Coffee table that matches your decor cheap(garage sale etc,,,,) cut the legs down to the appropriate height and your good to go. Check out my gallery pics here to see. It's been a while since i posted here but my sets still going strong, and Thanks to Matt, SSJL , for dragging me back here.

Just wanted to know if anyone knows the instructions for 56-point convergence on the old Toshiba 42H82. I've successfully performed it on my 57H83, but want to know if there are any differences in the instructions.

Thanks,
Vince

If you guys can find a Coffee table that matches your decor cheap(garage sale etc,,,,) cut the legs down to the appropriate height and your good to go. Check out my gallery pics here to see. It's been a while since i posted here but my sets still going strong, and Thanks to Matt, SSJL , for dragging me back here.
Hes back! Make sure to check your PM's you bum!! If a coffee table do not work consider building your own tv stand theres a large thread in this forum somewhere under BYO TV Stand lurking around. Once my Athena speakers come in Ill be building a new table/dvd rack, new surround mounts, and then for a friend Ill be building new speaker stands. So I got a lot of woodwork to do. My 46H84 is still running like a bull, its beautiful, and thank god HD football is back, back to the glory days!

BTW Video its the same process, just the number of points for convergence may differ, same procedure though.

VideoInSF - It's the exact same procedure.

Cheers,

PBC

PBC,
Thanks for the info. I'll try the convergence next week when I'm at my friend's place.

Local B&M store has the Toshiba 57hx94 for a great price. What do you guys think about this cinema series model?

please help tried everything that i can to improve the FUZZY picture during dvd playback,i've tried several diffrent players including denons etc. but still can't seem to get the picture that i keep hearing this set is capable of getting. i've tried the hdmi setup (nothing changes) i'm now stuck with a toshiba just because i've returned so many diffrent models and it is getting out of hand,thought maybe the same brand might help but nothing i'm hooked up with monster cables with a component setup, also used the home calibrationing kit, also i've noticed that i have to have the sharpness adjusted to atleast 80+ just to get a somewhat of a decent picture but to me that seems way too high even on hdtv it has to be set that high or it just isn't close to being right . thanks for reading ALSO GREAT FORUM IT'S BEEN A BIG HELP!!!!!

Service Menu convergence made a world of difference on mine. I'm just using an $80 toshiba DVD player via component cables.

please help tried everything that i can to improve the FUZZY picture during dvd playback,i've tried several diffrent players including denons etc. but still can't seem to get the picture that i keep hearing this set is capable of getting. i've tried the hdmi setup (nothing changes) i'm now stuck with a toshiba just because i've returned so many diffrent models and it is getting out of hand,thought maybe the same brand might help but nothing i'm hooked up with monster cables with a component setup, also used the home calibrationing kit, also i've noticed that i have to have the sharpness adjusted to atleast 80+ just to get a somewhat of a decent picture but to me that seems way too high even on hdtv it has to be set that high or it just isn't close to being right . thanks for reading ALSO GREAT FORUM IT'S BEEN A BIG HELP!!!!!

do you have a 65" and if so do you think you can help me out on this service menu convergence. thanks

do you have a 65" and if so do you think you can help me out on this service menu convergence. thanks

Might be a silly question, but how close are you sitting to your set?

i'm atleast 12' away. it's just that the picture is very fuzzy almost to the point it makes you dizzy.

Look up 56 Point Convergence in this thread. Must be somewhere. It's relatively simple, but long to explain!

PBC

At least have you done a regular manual convergence?

yes i have.

Just checking, you'd be suprised how many people you run across that don't have a clue. The 56pt has been explained by me on this thread several times. Like pbc said, just do a search for it and you should be able to handle it ok. It does make a pretty big difference over the regular one.

Hi

I got a brand new 51H84, now I know you have a larger one but could you please give the settings for everything?? I was in the service mode and went to get some drinks n munchies my dad came down saw the TV on and started changing channels and volume with the remote and didnt know why nothing was changing and everything is out of whack now. I was gonna sit down and write all my settings but he accidently buggered it up.

Thanks
akshaybajaj @ yahoo

Well, I hate to say it but this could be a real problem. My understanding is that every set gets slightly different numbers for all it's parameters. You may need to get a pro in there. (make sure you get the right one, though.

I understand that the different sets have different values but it would give a basis to start with. I am a robotics engineer and I can bring home light meter, osciliscope and any equipment needed to do what an ISF tech would do but it would take way too long with the messed up settings. If I can get the offsets from an H83/H84/h85 it would require me to just tweak it up.

Mine is a 65H84, and I think all the settings are different to accomodate the screen size difference.

BTW, I know it's been awhile since I posted, but I've gone through a # of trials and tribulations with this set over the past months. (pretty much all self induced. I can't leave well enough alone!)

The second time a tech came to replace my green gun, he had to obviously mess with the light output trimpots to balance the colors. (this is understood to be an absolute no-no for us DIYers.) Anyway, as you can imagine, the color temperature seemed way out of whack after he "fixed" it. So I had to give myself a crash course over a long period of months to figure out these level trimpots. I'm quite sure I don't have it quite right yet, but I think I've learned some things.

First of all, it's really easy to screw up your brightness and probably contrast using these things. The slightest turn of one of these trimpots changes the level of output for that particular gun. It's not too dificult to get the color balance "close", but it seems completely maddening to get it "right", especially without any measurement equipment. Last night, though, I think I figured out some tricks that made it possible to get closer than I've ever gotten it before.

Disclaimer; Don't try this unless you are an incessant tweaker like me who just can't leave any stone unturned! It's possible to seriously screw up your color balance/temperature. (of course, it's also possible to fix it! :p )

Get familiar with the location of the trimpots, then turn the lights off in your room. You'll need a flashlight. Start by turning all three level trimpots all the way down. This should give you a black screen. (it's a good idea to have the brightness and contrast set to at or below 50 before you start. I should also add that I've tried a flathead screwdriver and needle nose plyers, and the plyers seem to offer better control. Just don't squeeze.)
Then raise the level on the Green gun. You'll want to see a good contrast between light and dark portions of the image. You'll eventually see when you've gone too far, because everything looks washed out.
Then raise the level of the red until you get a good balance of red and green. A little back and forth with the trimpots will show you too much of one or the other. Just remember that the slightest turn will change things.
I add blue last. You'll want to add just enough to make the whites white. Before you add blue the whites will look yellowish.

Now for the new trick I learned. (or maybe the new mistake I made! :o )
Last night, I was tweaking settings with the remote and decided to turn the color all the way down, which "should" yield a black and white picture and perfect grays. As I turned it down, it got more and more "red". It had not occured to me that this could happen! (just slow, I guess) I have directv so I used a screen that showed the "Searching for Signal" I'm sure you could also use the DVE disc or equivilent. I made very minor adjustments, making sure not to add too much bightness with the green in particular, and just tried to make the balance as "gray" as possible. (very scientific, I know) Anyway, The color temperature seems to be better than I've had in a long time. There was alot for me to learn in terms of brightness level, though. Make sure you test regular HD programming as well as letterboxed DVDs, etc. to get an idea of your brightness levels. It's really easy to get a washed out picture if you only use bright TV images to tweak with.

A couple reminders: I HAD TO DO THIS because I had a gun replaced and the guy who replaced it screwed up my color temperature. I don't suggest doing this unless you're willing to go through alot of trial and error to improve color temp. It's really easy to mess up.

I am the only one that finds that picture on my Toshiba 51H84 is not as good when connected to a progressive scan (samsung) DVD player as when it is connected to a HD (comcast cable) receiver?
Just don't seem to have a great picture even with my HDMI connection.

Are you comparing a DVD to HD or just SD programming?

HDTV has much more data...and will always look better than DVD. That's why Blueray and HD-DVD are coming out. It's the old Beta/VHS fight for HD media.

i'll step up and keep this thread going. i should be receiving a toshiba 51h84 within the hour. yea baby! i must have looked at a zillion microdisplays and did not like the picture on any of them. i seem to be gifted in seeing the dreaded sse (silk screen effect) in all these new tech sets, not to mention there poor renditions of black levels. the only displays i liked were the plasma's, but i can not afford to spend $3000+ for a 50" hd model. once i saw this toshiba properly set in a darkened room, i was sold.

i'll give you guys my first impressions after i fire her up for awhile.

regards,
paul

ptt660, I used to live in Waltham, MA. Make sure when you turn it on , reduce everything down to about 50%. After a 15 to 30 minute wait, go ahead and do a manual convergence. No telling how far off it is, and this will sharpen up the picture a bit. Then, enjoy it and read up on this thread for tweaks or post questions or experiences here or PM me. Lots of knowledgeable people on this thread with these sets. GL, and let us know how you like it!

To elaborate on pittdog1's advice: First thing to do is switch the video setting to "Movie" on all inputs. Then lower brightness, contrast, etc. to 50 (or lower). Enjoy!

thanks guys. i need to read this thread from the beginning. looks like a lot of good info! i lowered the contrast and brightness to 50% using that movie mode. dvd's look suprisingly good with my 5 yr. old pioneer dv-414 non-progressive player thru component inputs. i'm wondering if i will see an even better picture with a progressive scan player thru either component or hdmi inputs? do you think it's worth the money to make this upgrade?

hey pitt, thanks for the pm offer. i may need your help! i live in north reading, just a 40 min. ride from your old stomping grounds. my brother-in-law has been working in waltham for years. well, i started doing the 56 pt. convergence but stopped because i wasn't sure if i was doing it right. should i just be concerned with clearing up the red and blue colors on the center crosses (+) of the 56 pt. grid? what about the blocks and lines surrounding the cross? sorry if i sound like a dummy. first time with one of these crt rptv's! i gotta feeling i will really love this set once i get it dialed in properly cause it looks nice now. can't wait for the hd install from comcast next wednesday!:)

ok, i am all set with the 56 pt. convergence. i got all the crosses as white as i could get them. i am on my way to full fledged video geek status!

i am on my way to full fledged video geek status!
Hooray, I'll add that on the scoreboard. As a side note I received my new Athena AS-F1.2's floor speakers, and AS-P4000 sub, compliments the tv very nicely, can post pics if need be.

this thread has been a lifesaver! watching the dvd of "aliens" last night during the opening scenes in outer space i noticed a reddish tinge around the edges of the screen. it occured during all real dark scenes in this movie, which there are a lot. bummer! anyways, on page 14 of this thread i read about the adjustment to the r-cut thru the service menu. voila! after lowering that setting by 12 levels it cleared up the problem entirely. after tweaking this set a little i am really loving the picture.........thanks again!

regards,
paul

hello everyone. I just recieved my tv back from the shop in toledo, ohio on friday. After going round and round with the shop, best buy and toshiba it appears that my white line problem is gone! When the tech came out to look at it he seen it right away but when it was in the shop for a week a different guy calls and says he couldn;t see anything at all. They wanted to send it back to me without doing anything. After asking if they talked to the guy who came out to my house they said no so after a couple of minutes of discussing this they finally agreed to hold on to it and talk to the gentleman that seen it at my house. this was on the monday before. Then heard nothing all week until they just showed up at my door without setting up a time or anything. Going to check the tv some more this weekend before calling on monday to see exactely what they did and if toshiba authorized this or not. The paperwork states that after talking to customer they were referd to the fix for the 83 model numbers that we all know about and the applied the modification even though the 84's are not on the list. I am pretty sure it is gone. Watching golf and that is were I mostly see it anyways. After looking really hard for it I think I might have seen it once, MAYBE! But then again I was really looking for it and it was really faint if it was there at all. Now if I can only get rid of what i think is a fuzzy picture with cable. I think it is my signal from Adelphia, because my older brother has the same tv in toledo with Buckeye cable and his pic looks better. I am in Delta, Ohio. Well if anyboby wants more details about this feel to asked, this site has been a great help to me.

Good to hear they fixed your set, although Im sure it took some persuasion. Fortunately for myself my 46H84 very rarely shows the 'white line' which is only when I seem to watch the Antartica special on Discovery HD.

I was just looking at some old posts in this thread and my brother and I only paid 899.99 apiece for our 46h84's! Back in nov. of 2004 best buy had them for 999.99 but we used the 24 months same as cash which gave us another 10% off and another 10% off all accessories, like the 2 stands we bought which we got for free actually after they messed up the delivery! But that is another story.

899 thats well below cost, you guys lucked out.

chalk up another center line victim. :( i noticed it today watching all the nfl games in high def on comcast cable. like everyone else, it shows up as the cameras pan during live action. it is right center on the screen and very faint BUT still noticeable. my set has a jan. 05 build so it looks like toshiba did not bother fixing this issue with later 84 series sets either. otherwise, i do LOVE the picture on this set so i will probably just call it in for service.

regards,
paul

Its too minor to be of any concern, such a great tv, picture, size, and price.

i hear ya. i may end up keeping it and living with that minor defect. i am still within my 30 day return period so i COULD swap it out. however, all the toshiba's might have this issue since they claimed to have "supposedly" fixed it on the 84 line although everyone here knows better. you are right, there may be too many positives about this set for me to just ditch it over the f$%kin white line. no sets out there are perfect. i wonder if i would have even noticed it had i not been aware of the issue by reading this thread. since i was looking for the white line, i found it..................duh! sometimes ignorance IS bliss.:)

ptt660, I've been living with the same defect in my 57H84 and I can't complain. The PQ is still outstanding and comparable to more expensive sets. In fact, my brother owns a Sony 55 LCD and he said he couldn't see a difference between my picture quality and his. Got another brother who owns a 50" Panny...and said the color on my set was better than his. Have you watched LOST yet with your set? If not, give it a shot. I watch it OTA (over the air) and it's one of the best HD programs I've seen with this set. I watched the PATS game yesterday and I could see the reflection of other players off of the helmets in the huddle.

Stick with it....

pjo, my brother-in-law owns a 60" sony lcd and my brother owns a 50" panny lcd so i have similar sets to compare my 51h84. with their sets, i can see the sse (silk screen effect) and decided i couldn't live with THAT issue. the white line does not bother me like the sse does on any of those microdisplay digital sets. i will stick it out for now and try to not let it bother me as much. otherwise a great set with a beautiful picture on dvd's and hd.
that pat's game in hd was a treat yesterday, wasn't it? a super win but tempered somewhat by harrison's season ending injury-torn acl.:(

Not to hijack thread but:

I read this thread becuase I was a recent owner of a 46h83 which served me well.

Ptt,

i taped the Pat's game (DVR) and when I went to watch, it was 4:3 so I deleted it. Did it begin as 4:3 then go to HD? Maybe I used channel 5 instead of 805 (doubtful though).

thanks.

Chaz

i taped the Pat's game (DVR) and when I went to watch, it was 4:3 so I deleted it. Did it begin as 4:3 then go to HD? Maybe I used channel 5 instead of 805 (doubtful though).
Unless you were watching pre-game which is sometimes 4x3, from the start of the 1st quarter to the end of the 4th is was 16x9 in HD.

I have a burn in question... sometimes late I play xbox or ps2 on the colorstream input. When I turn the game system off the display on the tv is completly black so I have a bad habit of not powering it off and leaving it on overnight. Is this really bad for the TV? Is there such a thing as black burnin? Does it know there is no input and save blulb / turn the display off? I know these are probably horrible questions, I just want to know how bad this is for the TV. Thanks! (tv is Toshiba 65h14 or 65h84)

I have a burn in question... sometimes late I play xbox or ps2 on the colorstream input. When I turn the game system off the display on the tv is completly black so I have a bad habit of not powering it off and leaving it on overnight. Is this really bad for the TV? Is there such a thing as black burnin? Does it know there is no input and save blulb / turn the display off? I know these are probably horrible questions, I just want to know how bad this is for the TV. Thanks! (tv is Toshiba 65h14 or 65h84)
If it's just the blank screen I dont believe its too big of a deal, however I really wouldnt leave any tv on at all overnight however.

I'm sorry guys I tried the search feature an d came up with nothing just curious I was thinking about bying the the 51H85C. Just curious what the differences were between the 84 and the 85?
Thanks

I'm sorry guys I tried the search feature an d came up with nothing just curious I was thinking about bying the the 51H85C. Just curious what the differences were between the 84 and the 85?
Thanks
I dont believe anything, however with the C models there is no analog tuner.

Google is your friend. :)

51H85C (http://www.toshiba.ca/web/product.grp?lg=en&section=2&group=6&product=5152&category=)... I'm guessing the C = Canadian model?

It does appear to have an analog tuner as well.

*EDIT*

Did you mean the 51HC85 (http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=51hc85)? If so, then the previous poster was correct. It lacks an analog tuner. It has analog inputs (Composite, S-Video, and Component), as well, of course, as a digital input (HDMI).

Mr Zoid

Thank you for correcting me, I was getting mixed up 51HC85 = No tuner, 51H85C = Canadian.

Thank you for correcting me, I was getting mixed up 51HC85 = No tuner, 51H85C = Canadian.

The 'C' after the 'H' means it's a member of Toshiba's Custom series. The 'xxHC85' also lost Touch Focus. Manual convergence only!

well guys, i tried to ignore the white center drive line in the two weeks i have had the 51h84.................no dice! i tried hooking up my comcast box thru both component and the hdmi to make sure the line was showing up across ALL inputs. the killer is that the hd red sox and pats games are where i see it the most, and those teams are the main reason i got hd in the first place! oddly i haven't noticed it showing up with my dvd player via component. what a shame because i like this tv a lot.

i e-mailed toshiba customer service to see what kind of response i would get and just got a canned response..................."unplug your tv for 3 minutes to let it reset and try it again. if you are still having trouble, call an authorized local service center." any of you tosh-heads out there in the u.s.a. get additional warranty service on an 84 set to eliminate this defect? or is toshiba usa still in denial on this since they applied the "band-aid" fix to this line prior to shipping? i have not read of ONE instance where someone in the u.s. got warranty service to fix any of the 84 line sets.

i have 2 weeks left on my return window so i think i am gonna swap this out for another set. anyone out there that has a set without the white line issue has a keeper. i just wish it was me too! :(

If it's just the blank screen I dont believe its too big of a deal, however I really wouldnt leave any tv on at all overnight however.

Thanks for your reply, I don't mean to leave it on, but at least now I feel a little better about the fact that I did...

well guys, i tried to ignore the white center drive line in the two weeks i have had the 51h84.................no dice! i tried hooking up my comcast box thru both component and the hdmi to make sure the line was showing up across ALL inputs. the killer is that the hd red sox and pats games are where i see it the most, and those teams are the main reason i got hd in the first place! oddly i haven't noticed it showing up with my dvd player via component. what a shame because i like this tv a lot.

i e-mailed toshiba customer service to see what kind of response i would get and just got a canned response..................."unplug your tv for 3 minutes to let it reset and try it again. if you are still having trouble, call an authorized local service center." any of you tosh-heads out there in the u.s.a. get additional warranty service on an 84 set to eliminate this defect? or is toshiba usa still in denial on this since they applied the "band-aid" fix to this line prior to shipping? i have not read of ONE instance where someone in the u.s. got warranty service to fix any of the 84 line sets.

i have 2 weeks left on my return window so i think i am gonna swap this out for another set. anyone out there that has a set without the white line issue has a keeper. i just wish it was me too! :(
Hi ptt660. I also bought the extra warranty from best buy. I got my auth. service center to apply the fix that they used on the 83 models but I havent called back to see if Toshiba authorized it or not. I have the service paper that they gave me which says they did this and I wonder if that would help anybody but I have no way of posted it. All I did was be very clear that I would be sending it back until it was fixed. I also called Toshiba, and they said if the service center couldn't fix the problem to call Toshiba back and they would call the center and work with them to solve the problem. But it never got that for.

Just in case you didn't know, I have the 46h84.

pt660, sorry to hear it man. Good luck with whatever you do, I know there have been some X84 owners who have looked into getting that fixed. Go Sox!

dan, did the fix completely eliminate the line for you? i would of persisted on this issue like you did if it was AFTER the 30 day return window i had on the 51h84 i purchased. i am glad you persisted. maybe your initiative in this matter will help other 84 owners get a fix done to their sets!

i will be getting a different make, since the odds are that another tosh will have the white line too. i just can't deal with this b.s. any more. good bye tosh-heads!

I also have the white line, and the service center wants to take the tv for repair. I have the 65h14 model from Sam's club. One thing I can recommend is checking what the store manager as Sam's will allow, as the one over the club I purchased at will refund the TV as long as I have the receipt. They have already authorized the return 10 months after purchase, but I am thinking of having it checked out by the service center first. I will post my findings.
Troy in sunny Jax Florida :)

Hello All, I have the 46h83 and I am 2 years into a 4 year warranty form bestbuy, I have major focus issues, things just look blurry. I have tried doing an auto convergence but the lines went wacky and it gave me an error.I also tried the manual one in the menu with little to no results. Do you guys think that (blured picture) would fall under my warranty?
PS. I do not want to go into the service menu through fear of voidng the warranty

If you get an error message on the auto convergence (focus button), then it's not working properly and should be covered. Call and have a rep come out.

Good luck.

Will do, Thanks

sorry about the late response, I haven't been online in a couple of days. Yes the white line is gone as far as I can tell, I watch a lot of golf and it was easy for me to see it when the ball was in day air. Now I see nothing and believe me I am looking.

I tried searching this thread for info on this, but couldn't narrow it down. I have a 51H83 with a non-progressive scan dvd player. I have 2 questions, first of all, would an under $150 prog-scan dvd player have a better pic in video mode than a non-prog in film mode? Also, does the tv automatically switch to video mode when it detects a progressive signal? I've tried using the prog-scan mode on my PS2, but didn't really notice a difference.

I've searched this thread and that's alot of pertinent info, but I didn't find and answer to my question. I own a 51h84, when doing a convergence, in the upper left corner the + is skewwed and blurry. Does this part of it have to do with the focusing of the tubes themselves?

TIA

TUKIN18S, I have a 57h83 and found the same thing on the upper right side that would not go away, I just let the Auto-Convergence do its magic and it worked.
Good Luck

I have a new issue with my 56H84.

I have one input set up on my TV now, while my Onkyo stereo serves as the video switcher between the set-top box and the DVD player. When I change from the set-top box to the DVD player, the screen screws up like the horizontal and vertical hold was messed up. I have to turn the TV off and back on for it to clear up.

I just had a convergence, manual focus and Duvedrape done on the TV this spring, so I am afraid to try to get warantee service for this.

I have had the same horiz-vert hold issue with my 57H83. Recently, however, turning it off & then back on does not fix the problem. It seems that when I turn it off and leave it off for a while (an hour or more), the horiz-vert hold problem corrects itself. I realize this is not a fix, but I haven't had the time to call in a service rep.

Now that I think of it, I believe I had it before. I think it must have to do with changing the incoming signal from 1080i to 480p (or 720p or whatever my DVD player puts out ,) on the same input.

If there is a possibility of it getting worse, then I guess I should run the component cables directly to the TV again, and get a better remote that changes the stereo and the TV inputs with a macro.

I'm hoping someone can help me with this. I have a 51H84 receiving HD through a Motorolla DVR (cable). As of late the picture has started to look a lot softer and the wow factor from HD channels seems to be fading. I have done service menu calibrations and have been able to get everything to line up perfectly (I did this before as well). Thinking I might be nuts my live-in GF also said she noticed the HD doesn't seem quite as good as it used to. The sharpness of my TV remains set at 42 (I never touched this from when I first set the picture with a calibration disc). I called the cable co to see if there has been any changes to the way the HD signal is delivered (ie. lowered bandwidth) and they said no.

It's hard to notice the slightly softer picture on DVD's since they're nowhere near as good as HD to begin with. The only SM change I've made is to reduce the RCUT to eliminate the red push (I did this before the picture softened up on me). The tv is only 5 months old and whenever I visit my parents house and watch HD on their 34" CRT I'm reminded as to what I'm missing (even though when I first go the tv I'd swear my picture was just as good).

Is there anything in the SM to correct a softer picture? Do I need to have the focus manually adjusted? I'm a little weary of ripping off the front panel and doing this myself. Any help or insight would be much appreciated.

I have owned my 46H84 for almost a year now. Is it unusual for the service menu convergence to drift a little on an almost daily basis? I can go in almost every day and tweak it a little if I want to. The PQ is not noticeably bad or anything, but the tweaker in me likes to go in and check and sure enough, it's a little off. I do the convergence in "Full" mode and do not press "Touch Focus" when I'm done, just "7" and "7" again as I've read in numerous forums, including this one. Should I converge in each mode or just "Full"?
Thanks for any help,
Ted

Are you letting the set warm up for 20 or more minutes before checking it? And hitting the Touch Focus button at the end does save you Service menu convergence to the Touch focus button. This was confirmed by an ISF tech in this thread(very early on) and i've confirmed as well on my set.

Touch Focus works brilliantly on my 46H83. It was pretty lousy on the H81's, and so-so on the H82's though. On the H81's, it took 3 or more "touch ups" before Touch Focus became relatively accurate. For the H82's, it either works first time, or requires one or two touch ups. On the H83's and newer, it usually works great the first time.

When I do a calibration, I always save to Touch Focus (even if it takes 3+ times to get it right) because it's a great benefit to the customer.

Well the service technician could not duplicate the white line, but they are doing the repair anyway. They said there is a service bulletin covering this problem, but speaking with customer service, they have not found it yet. If I get any further with this I will write again. Troy

Well toshiba has no new service bulletin on this problem, but they are offering to replace the tv under warrantee for me, as the service center is unable to repair what they can not find. What are your thoughts? Should I attempt to replace it, and maybe end up with other problems, and a refurbished tv, or live with what I have already? Troy

This Saturday a tech is coming to do a yearly maintenance on my 57h84. I did not notice the white drive line the first 6-8 months of ownership, but I've seen it some since (set is 12 months old now). It does not drive me to distraction, but I'm going to point it out to the tech (I printed the TSB for the x3 series) and see what he says. I'll report back.

pittdog and JohnnyG,

Thanks for the info. I always have the TV run at least an hour before convergence. I wasn't aware Touch Focus works that well on the 84 series, it seems that there's been a split decision on that in everything I've read, but maybe I've been seeing comments geared toward the earlier models. Anyway, I'll give it a shot! Thanks again.

Ted

It works very well if saved to it from the Service menu convergence. Just hitting the Touch Focus button out of the box isn't going to do anything for anybody. This may be what you've read about. It will hold your Service menu Convergence if you save it to it. As Johnny said, it may take 2 or 3 X to get Touch Focus to retain all of it , but it will get it. Give it a try.

Has anyone noticed their 46H84 tv turning on and off, or the picture popping off for about half a second. I just purchased this TV, and it's still under the 30 day return policy and I'm wondering if this is something to be concerned about, or if it's the Popping that i've read about on this forum.
Thanks

Well, I think I may be the only one with the model 65HC15. I don't know what the difference is other than missing the tuner and touch focus.
Anyways, I've noticed that the geometry is off on the very top of the screen. It appears to bow slightly downwards in the top-middle. I've ordered the DVE disc and will check for sure, problem is I've read through like 30 pages and still am not sure how to fix it. Can anyone give me a quick answer?

Also, is it just me or does the picture look bad on anything less than component? I have my PC connected through an ATI 9600 pro to Video 1 via s-video, and the picture is really blurry. I was also watching a DVD from my Xbox via s-video and the picture was not crisp at all, almost to the point of being unwatchable. The picture quality on my 11 year old Hitachi projection looked better with the Xbox. I went out and got another DVD player with component out and the picture quality is night and day better. Is it just my set, or is component really that much better than s-video?

Thanks for any response.

edit: and for the record, I have done the 56pt convergence (which is in the regular menu, not service). Also, I started at "movie" mode with brightness and contrast ~45 and the sharpness at 37. Color is 50 and tint set to G 4.

Do a search on this thread for Service menu convergence. That is where i did my geometry fixes for my set. There are many posts about it in this thread by me and others very early on in this thread. You'll need to turn off the red and blue guns and get the green one straightened out for geometry. Then line the blue and red guns to the green . There are instructions here on how i did it with string lines on my set. There may be easier ways to do it ,but it worked very well for me. Just search for it and if you can't find it let me know and i'll try to take the time to locate the directions for you when i can or i'll try to repost them or PM them to you. Good luck.

OK, Tv is back, and white line is still there. Tomorrow I am faxing the receipt to Toshiba, and will report what I got as a replacement. I hope it works out ok.
Take care, Troy.

Do a search on this thread for Service menu convergence. That is where i did my geometry fixes for my set. There are many posts about it in this thread by me and others very early on in this thread. You'll need to turn off the red and blue guns and get the green one straightened out for geometry. Then line the blue and red guns to the green . There are instructions here on how i did it with string lines on my set. There may be easier ways to do it ,but it worked very well for me. Just search for it and if you can't find it let me know and i'll try to take the time to locate the directions for you when i can or i'll try to repost them or PM them to you. Good luck.
Thanks alot for the response. I read stuff about that but wasn't sure if that's what I needed. I'll read more in depth about it.

Well, I think I may be the only one with the model 65HC15. I don't know what the difference is other than missing the tuner and touch focus.
Anyways, I've noticed that the geometry is off on the very top of the screen. It appears to bow slightly downwards in the top-middle.

This is a Sam's Club or Costco model, correct? It would have the same basic "guts" as the other models discussed in this thread. The best way to correct the geometry is with a geometry screen overlay. This tells you where the lines in the service convergence screen are supposed to be. You can buy these from at least a couple of different sources, including me (check my profile for my web site address).

As for s-video, it's a very low-resolution signal, so it's really no surprise that it looks poor on a 65" screen.

Hi, guy's I have bought one of those CS 1 from E-bay, however, I have a Toshiba 65 HX 83 HDTV, I can't display on it 1080i , only 720 p Rgb, it would not take 720p regular or 1080i, anyone with some more info on this?, my theater are
HDTV 9200 HD PVR Bell sattelite- DVI to CS 1 set to 720p
Momitsu HD DVD- component to CS1 set to Ntsc component
FTA Viewsat receiver - s video to CS 1
they all are running at 720p Rgb

This is a Sam's Club or Costco model, correct? It would have the same basic "guts" as the other models discussed in this thread. The best way to correct the geometry is with a geometry screen overlay. This tells you where the lines in the service convergence screen are supposed to be. You can buy these from at least a couple of different sources, including me (check my profile for my web site address).

As for s-video, it's a very low-resolution signal, so it's really no surprise that it looks poor on a 65" screen.
yes, it's a Costco model. My PC recognizes it as an H84. I know that the overlay is the best way to correct geometry, I just didn't know how to actually change the geometry settings on the TV. Looks like I need to go into the service menu and do convergence. Another question though. I have the 56 point convergence without going into the service menu. Is there a different convergence once I get into the start menu?

Convergence through the user menu does not allow you to move all 3 colours - only red and blue. Since you can't move all 3, you can't actually alter the geomety. In the service menu, you can move all 3. When you're doing a full geometry & convergence adjustment, you generally adjust each colour to the lines on the overlay, then remove the overlay and fine-tune by first adjusting red to green, then blue to red, then finally all 3. Green is your reference, so once you set that to the overylay, you don't move it again.

The service menu convergence functions differently, but it's not difficult to use. Search on Google and I'm sure you'll come up with a number of tutorials.

Convergence through the user menu does not allow you to move all 3 colours - only red and blue. Since you can't move all 3, you can't actually alter the geomety. In the service menu, you can move all 3. When you're doing a full geometry & convergence adjustment, you generally adjust each colour to the lines on the overlay, then remove the overlay and fine-tune by first adjusting red to green, then blue to red, then finally all 3. Green is your reference, so once you set that to the overylay, you don't move it again.

The service menu convergence functions differently, but it's not difficult to use. Search on Google and I'm sure you'll come up with a number of tutorials.
ahhh...thank you.

http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/Convergence.htm

hxxp://xxx.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/Convergence.htm
wow...thanks for the link. doesn't get any more user friendly than that.

On the 84 models, do you still have to perform service menu convergence on each picture mode? I thought that "Full" mode convergence covered all of the modes. Pittdog?

On the 84 models, do you still have to perform service menu convergence on each picture mode? I thought that "Full" mode convergence covered all of the modes. Pittdog?

***

The 84 models have only one scan rate (1080i or its equivalent 540p) and thus there is only one mode to converge. That is, a single convergence works on all modes. That simplicity is one of the benefits of the 84 series.

Les

Where I could find the Native Resolution for the Toshiba 65 HX 83 ?, thanks in advance .

Ted_K, Les H has you covered here. It is a global setting. One for all modes. octagon, you're set has the same scan rate as my 46H83 and the H84 series sets, 1080i/540p.
Not sure what the problem you're having is. I know the DVI connection on 83 series sets has had some finnickiness to them , all though mine has always worked without a hitch. I run mine in pass through mode on my TW DVR and the set takes all signals from 480 to 720 to 1080 with no problems.

Hi PittDog, i am trying to figure what is better for my setup, I'm running an Focus centerstage CS 1, with the Toshiba 65 HX 83, I also have a 9200 HDTV pvr receiver for sattelite, and a Momitsu HDTV DVD, but the highest i can go to toshiba fropm the scaler is 720 RGB, now i knoe CS1 is not compatible with HDCP,
i'm just asking myself if i would benefit more from an DVDO HD+ with the SDI option, or the Focus Centerstage CS 2 , which both I believe they have support for HDCP, and at last what will be best the DVDO HD+ , or the Focus CS 2.
thanks in advance.

I know that DVI/HDMI isn't really supposed to make a difference PQ wise on our sets over Component, however, of the 3 boxes I've had DVI/HDMI active on, the DVI/HDMI has always looked noticeably better. I don't really have any experience with scalers, so i can't really help you out there. But, 720p or 1080i look indestinguishable(sp?) from each other on my set depending on how good the original signal is. Good luck on whatever you choose.

I'm hoping someone can help me with this. I have a 51H84 receiving HD through a Motorolla DVR (cable). As of late the picture has started to look a lot softer and the wow factor from HD channels seems to be fading.
First thing to do is to check/replace your video cables. It's also entirely possible that a component in the analog output stage of the Motorola is starting to go unstable. So if the cabling is fine, exchange the receiver (if you can).

Is this unit capable of handling HD input on the component feeds? Wondering about hooking it up to an Xbox 360.

Is this unit capable of handling HD input on the component feeds? Wondering about hooking it up to an Xbox 360.

Yes

I'm running my Toshiba 65h84 with Contrast set at 70, and Brightness set at 55.

Is this too high? I'm worried about burn in.

I've calibrated with Avia, and for the first four months had the Contrast at 60 and the Brightness at 50.

Although the HD channels looked great, the SD channels came in way to dark. Fox and CBS, which are still in SD in my area, were the biggest offenders. CSI was almost unwatchable; so was Battle Star Galactica on Sci Fi. Even football was a struggle at times.

Don't worry about burn in. It sounds as if you like variety on the screen. THAT is how to prevent burn in, not the brightness/contrast levels.

First thing to do is to check/replace your video cables. It's also entirely possible that a component in the analog output stage of the Motorola is starting to go unstable. So if the cabling is fine, exchange the receiver (if you can).


Thanks, I have tried swapping the component cables (the ones my cable provider provided with the DVR) with both my monster and philips component cables, all 3 exhibit the same issue.

In fact when I pull up the on screen channel guide the white text on the left side of the screen is noticably sharper than the white text on the right side which appears slightly soft. From the SM there appears to be no convergence issues and all 3 guns seems as aligned as I could get them (blue of course isn't perfect around the edges).

Before I call cogeco to see about replacing the DVR is it possible that optical and electronic focus provided by a profesional calibration (which I anticipate getting early in 06) would eliminate this?

Thanks

I have had the same horiz-vert hold issue with my 57H83. Recently, however, turning it off & then back on does not fix the problem. It seems that when I turn it off and leave it off for a while (an hour or more), the horiz-vert hold problem corrects itself. I realize this is not a fix, but I haven't had the time to call in a service rep.

I had my 57H83 brought into an authorized Toshiba repair center. They told me the "scan converter module" needed to be replaced, but Toshiba informed them the part was no longer in production. So, they want to return my TV, unfixed, back to me.

This set is only two years old and cost me $2,000. What they are telling me is I can now use it as an anchor for my boat!

I called Toshiba and started an "Incident". I have to fax my receipt & info to Toshiba to see "what they can do for me". Will keep you posted.

we have a Toshiba 57hx83 that we've really enjoyed. Lately we've been getting a small series of blue dots - maybe 8-10 all in a horizontal row. Only visible on black background, and almost always on the HD stations.
Could this be pixel dropout? - no fix for that I quess. Or something else - Would cleaning the mirrors be a fix? We've tried all the convergence and menu fixes to no avail. (all right- by "we" I mean my wife- who is the AV expert- I'm just trying to help her out here. :)
Thanks
Bob

I owned the Toshiba 51H84 for about a week. It is a nice television, although I had problems with the colors. I'm sure this has been mentioned already, but I noticed a severe red push in the colors. At least i think it was a red push, whatever it was, the colors were entirely unrealistic. I think the colors were meant to be accentuated on this model in oreder to give it a brighter picture. I currently own a Sony KP57WS520. When i saw the Toshiba models next to the Sony ones, I noticed Toshiba's picture had very rich blues and reds, which definitely made the picture seem more attractive. Except, the colors were not lifelike/fleshtone/realistic. The Sony picture was slightly darker, although colors were dead on.

I suppose it all comes down to what you like better. Do you want brighter picture with unrealisitc colors, or the opposite. The Toshiba was a great model, except for the color balances!

napoleon, i noticed the red push on the toshiba 51h84 set i had for 3 weeks before returning it for the sony kp-51ws520. during red sox games at fenway park the infield sand had a slight reddish hue to it that did not show up on the sony. not a dealbreaker for me...............but the white center driveline was! hope your enjoying the sony as much i am enjoying mine. i should leave now before the tosh-heads get me. see ya!

I suppose it all comes down to what you like better. Do you want brighter picture with unrealisitc colors, or the opposite. The Toshiba was a great model, except for the color balances![/QUOTE]


I've owned a 65H84 for a year now. I finally went beyond the Video Essentials touch up and went through various forums in the past month and got down to the nitty gritty of tweaking.

Toshiba H84 models are known for "red" push, you notice it more during dark scenes like at the end of a movie during the credits. The red will "push" into the black.

Most people will go into "service mode" and reduce the RCUT value and raise the BCUT a little, or do a combination of the RCUT/RDRV, BCUT/BDRV and GCUT. Anyway I tried this and although it helped it was not perfect.

The best way to do it is do lens striping, by yourself or a ISF tech. I found striping the red and green lenses worked best, as opposed to the more commonly red and blue lens method. 1/2 inch on the red towards the green and 1/2 inch on the green towards the blue gun, electrical tape works best, you can double side it if your worried about later sagging. This is the best way to get rid of the red push and also get correct color balance across the screen.

Beyond Video Essentials or the Avia DVD, this is what I've managed to do to my 65H84 through great forums like this:
-Service Mode Convergence
-Geometry/Overscan
-Electronic Focus
-Mechanical Focus
-Cleaned the optics (I was amazed after only 1yr how much film/dust there was!)
-Cleaned the mirror (just a touch up with compressed air, was fairly clean)
-Lens striping
-could have removed protective screen but I have young ones at home
-obtained service manual for H84 models
-did final small touches on Cut's and DRV's in service mode.

I was one of those who went into service mode and also did the electronic focus but was afraid to go beyond that. I have no regrets now and was amazed at how easy it was i.e. removing the screen etc. Heck, I'm so used to it now I actually removed my screen at half-time during MNF! :D Cause I didn't like the results of the red and blue combination lens striping!!! :p

Picture looks simply amazing.....and this is only on DVD's!! Can't wait till my HDTV dish arrives/installs in 3 weeks! Although I'm VERY pleased with the picture now, I'm still having a ISF tech coming at the end of the month to do greyscale and make any final adjustments. There are some things you simply can't do by "eye" and that's where ISF comes in.

Anyway, it's been fabulous getting all the hints and tweaks from everyone in here. If anyone has any questions from me I'd be more than happy to help out in order to achieve the best out of there Toshiba!

Hi all,

I just purchased the 51H84 and was wondering where I could purchase a convergence grid and a service manual from?
Am enjoying all the posts.

Thanks

http://www.nbtelectronics.com/

I owned the Toshiba 51H84 for about a week. It is a nice television, although I had problems with the colors. I'm sure this has been mentioned already, but I noticed a severe red push in the colors. At least i think it was a red push, whatever it was, the colors were entirely unrealistic. I think the colors were meant to be accentuated on this model in oreder to give it a brighter picture. I currently own a Sony KP57WS520. When i saw the Toshiba models next to the Sony ones, I noticed Toshiba's picture had very rich blues and reds, which definitely made the picture seem more attractive. Except, the colors were not lifelike/fleshtone/realistic. The Sony picture was slightly darker, although colors were dead on.

I suppose it all comes down to what you like better. Do you want brighter picture with unrealisitc colors, or the opposite. The Toshiba was a great model, except for the color balances!

I had exactly the same situation with a 57H84. Had it ISF calibrated and could not be happier with the resulting colors. Maybe I could have made some self-improvement by eye, but seeing the graphs of red, green and blue was comforting to know it is as close to 65k as possible.

Paul

For all you Toshiba owners you might want to take a look here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=602499

Anyone done business with Refurbelectronics?

They have an ebay auction also:

$1099/175shipping!!

OPINIONS PLEASE!!!

One more glass of Merlot and I'm going to do something rash!!

It's been awhile since I've posted about my 65H84, but I have a strange issue. I decided to hook up a Voom receiver to component so I don't have to look at the stupid horizontal fold line my D* receiver displays. The D* is over HDMI. For some reason, the HDMI signal always displays a faint greenish tint in very dark scenes, whereas my Voom box over component doesn't. Is this an issue with HDMI, or possibly the D* receiver? the model of the receiver is RCA DTC210.

OK, so I turned down the green trimpot just barely, then needed to turn down the blue, and now it seems ok.
I still can't figure out why I wasn't getting the same effect over component, though.

BTW, I am still very happy with this purchase! To get a 65" screen for this kind of money is amazing, and the PQ is great.
Now I'm just patiently waiting for some sort of HD optical media to come out!

Is there a difference between the 2 in terms of quality of picture? I can use either or, but all things being equal, component would allow me to run it through my av unit, thus saving me from an extra step of switching inputs at the tv, since i run my dvd player and xbox through the a/v unit as well and could add the cable box to all run to a dingle input on the tv.

In my experience with a good feed, the difference is marginal. In a "blind" test, I doubt I could tell the difference. Also, if the HD feed you're watching is of poor quality, it will actually look worse than component. Very grainy.

Hey everyone,

I have had my 51H84 for about a year now and am very happy with it.

I have wondering if people could post what settings they are running their sets at for DVD? (color/brightness/contrast/ect.)

I am using a Samsung DVD with upconversion through a DVI to HDMI cable.

I can never seem to get my black levels correct.

Thanks for the help,

-Eli

I have the same TV and DVD, and sadly the same problems.
It seems like we might have to buy a calibration dvd.

I have the same TV and DVD, and sadly the same problems.
It seems like we might have to buy a calibration dvd.

I am just wondering what other people are running for settings.

-Eli

I had my 57H83 brought into an authorized Toshiba repair center. They told me the "scan converter module" needed to be replaced, but Toshiba informed them the part was no longer in production. So, they want to return my TV, unfixed, back to me.

This set is only two years old and cost me $2,000. What they are telling me is I can now use it as an anchor for my boat!

I called Toshiba and started an "Incident". I have to fax my receipt & info to Toshiba to see "what they can do for me". Will keep you posted.

I called Toshiba Customer Service myself and the Rep. found a "scan converter module" for my 57H83. They had it shipped to the authorized repair center. My 57H83 was delivered back to my house last night (November 22, 2005). It works great, except for the repair bill: $550.00.

I faxed the bill to Toshiba and requested reimbursement. I'll post the results later.

Okay, now over this past wekend I have watched both the LSU Tigers and Minnesota Vikings, both of whom sport purple in their uniforms. My 46H84 only displays the purple as a deep blue. What can I adjust to get this right? Tint only makes the image more red or more green.

Okay, now over this past wekend I have watched both the LSU Tigers and Minnesota Vikings, both of whom sport purple in their uniforms. My 46H84 only displays the purple as a deep blue. What can I adjust to get this right? Tint only makes the image more red or more green.

You might want to consider a professional calibration. The gray scale and color decoders on these sets need some serious help. I travel to Dallas pretty frequently.

Does anybody's tv make a rattling noise when the subwoofer plays loudly? I know where it rattles, right above where the tv cabinet splits in half. Any suggestions? Here's a picture: http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/derekbannatyne/100_0460.jpg

Another problem is there is a really big green push when I connect up my computer to the tv with a dvi to hdmi cable.
Thanks.

I have a Toshiba 46" TheaterWide HDTV. A while back I think someone tried to clean my screen with windex and left the bottle on top and it might have leaked down the left side. I recently noticed what looked like watermarks in the lower left hand corner of the screen. I could still see the image through these very light marks.

Yesterday, I tried to remove the front of the TV and tried to wipe that area. That was probably a mistake because today I notice that the area is now black when you you look straight through it and if you look at it at an angle you can see through it. It does not follow the tubes when I change the TV perspective view so I dont think its the tubes.

So my questions:

Is there some kind of coating on the inside of the screen that I just muffed up?
Can I fix it?
Can I replace it if I can't fix it?
And if so, anyone know any links for replacements?

I am utterly sorrowful until I fix this.

I have a Toshiba 46" TheaterWide HDTV. A while back I think someone tried to clean my screen with windex and left the bottle on top and it might have leaked down the left side. I recently noticed what looked like watermarks in the lower left hand corner of the screen. I could still see the image through these very light marks.

Yesterday, I tried to remove the front of the TV and tried to wipe that area. That was probably a mistake because today I notice that the area is now black when you you look straight through it and if you look at it at an angle you can see through it. It does not follow the tubes when I change the TV perspective view so I dont think its the tubes.

So my questions:

Is there some kind of coating on the inside of the screen that I just muffed up?
Can I fix it?
Can I replace it if I can't fix it?
And if so, anyone know any links for replacements?

I am utterly sorrowful until I fix this.

It sounds like you need to replace it. Here are the instructions and warnings from the service manual.

HOW TO CLEAN SCREEN
When cleaning the screen, use a soft cloth so as not to
damage the screen.
1. Wipe the screen with a dry cloth to remove moisture on
the screen.

Note : Absolutely do not use detergent, water, alcohol,
benzine, thinner, etc. for cleaning in order not to
wipe away the black print on the surface.

I believe the part number for the lenticular screen is 23311087. They carry those here.

www.tritronicsinc.com/toshiba_1.htm

I would double check that with Toshiba.

umr,

I just got a 51HC85 from BB during the BlackFriday sale..

Went thru the Avia calibration, but the color seems off.

Do you have to get into the service menu & change the values for the color decoder ?

BTW, do you ever travel to Lafayette, La. ?

Regards,
Jose

umr,

I just got a 51HC85 from BB during the BlackFriday sale..

Went thru the Avia calibration, but the color seems off.

Do you have to get into the service menu & change the values for the color decoder ?

BTW, do you ever travel to Lafayette, La. ?

Regards,
Jose

You must enter the service mode to fix the colors. You also really need good instrumentation to do this correctly. These sets can perform very well once calibrated, but OTB they are pretty far off.

I could easily go over to Lafayette.

I have a 57" H83. I have had it for a little over 2 years. Up until this weekend the picture was great on it. My brother came in from out of town and we played xbox for about a total of 8 hours over the weekdend, I hardly ever turn the xbox on otherwise. I did notice that when playing Halo I noticed that I really had to turn up the brightness on the tv (about 75% of the way up) to be able to see where I was going on some of the darker levels - I didn't think anything of it at the time. Other than heavy xbox use I can't think of anything that I have done that would cause the following problem.

Now my TV is very very dark. In normal picture size the sidebars are dark navy blue, and it seams that everything on the screen is either black or a dark shade of navy blue, with the exception of a few objects that do show a little red in them. Other than that no colors are being displayed.

The audio coming from the tv works fine. And I know it is not the inputs. I have tried different devices using the componant hookups, the s-video, the rca's, and the antenna.

If anyone knows what I need to do to fix it, please help. If I need to take it in, is there an estimate of what a fix like this would cost? And what the heck caused it?

Thank you in advance.

does anyone know if the 65H83 has custom Timings on the Native Resolution?
and anyone has this running with a Video Scaler?

Not sure what you are after. I have the 65H14 which is much the same from what I have read. It supports 480p, 540p, 720p, and 1080i, and I have been able to get my ATI Radeon 9600 with the componant Dongle to work with it on 720p and 1080i. I run it on 720p so that I do not have the interlaced text issues. The ATI radeon supports the hdtv resolutions, I just had to try several to find one that was nice. I ended up with 1152x648 which has little overscan, and I centered it to get the picture lined up right. I can even read email, and surf the web with it. Hope this helps. Troy

i have a 4 month old 51H84 and was having no problems (aside from the occasional 1 second "pop") but the other day it just turned off for no reason. the power light started to blink and it wouldn't respond to any commands. i unplugged it and tried it the next morning and it worked for about 5 minutes then turned off again. i have a toshiba guy coming to look at it but with all the bad stuff i've heard about this model, do you think i should try to get best buy to replace it with an equivalent model? i have their 4 year psp. i wouldn't mind paying the difference on a better model, do they even offer anything like this?

also, how do i get into the service menu for this model, the colors are a bit off

Not sure what you are after. I have the 65H14 which is much the same from what I have read. It supports 480p, 540p, 720p, and 1080i, and I have been able to get my ATI Radeon 9600 with the componant Dongle to work with it on 720p and 1080i. I run it on 720p so that I do not have the interlaced text issues. The ATI radeon supports the hdtv resolutions, I just had to try several to find one that was nice. I ended up with 1152x648 which has little overscan, and I centered it to get the picture lined up right. I can even read email, and surf the web with it. Hope this helps. Troy

Same 9600 setup on a 57h83 - dongle, 720p 1152X648.

Hi guys, I just purchased a Tosh 51HC85 via the BB Black Friday sale. All in all I'm extremely impressed with the quality on the set but I need to lower the Red Push a little.

Can someone PM me with the (hopefully) standard method of accessing the service menu on toshiba sets.

Thanks

TimT

Search my name for posts on this. I've explained in detail several times on getting in the Service menu on these sets. Search for " Service menu convergence" on this thread only and that should get you to the posts with instructions for doing it. GL

Guess i should mention that my 46H83 is still looking great and no problems thus far. It's been a while again since i've posted on this thread. Glad to see it's still kicking around. I'm going to do a complete cleaning of my set sometime this winter. Screen off(possibly re-stacking while i'm doing it anyway)Mirror, optics and general cleaning inside as it will be 2 years old in January. If anyones interested, let me know and i'll post some pics and details of taking it apart and post 'em here, or on my gallery pics along with the focus block pictures that i all ready have on my gallery here at AVS. Keep posting away.

Sounds great. I definately want details and pics! I just finished a few minor maintenance items. Did a mechanical and electrical focus, slight geometry alteration, and service menu convergance. I also worked a bit with DVE to get a little better handle on brightness, contrast and color balance. Fun fun fun!! :p

Long time no talk to atye. I'm a bit of a procrastinator(sp?) but i do plan on doing it before the winters over. I'll at least post them in my gallery(need to update my pics there anyway, got a new camera that does a much better job)if not right here, and i'll post here when i've got 'em up. Good seeing you again. cya

Hi guys, I just purchased a Tosh 51HC85 via the BB Black Friday sale. All in all I'm extremely impressed with the quality on the set but I need to lower the Red Push a little.

Can someone PM me with the (hopefully) standard method of accessing the service menu on toshiba sets.

Thanks

TimT
Search this thread for "RCUT"

Like most in here I did everything possible on my own except greyscale since I don't have a color analyzer or the software for "correct" ISF settings. On my own I did:

-Video Essentials settings
-Electronic Focus
-Manual Focus
-Cleaned optics
-Adjustments to Cuts/Drives
-Overscan
-Service Menu convergence
-Lens striping
-Obtained Service Manual

Even after all of this, I had alot left to be desired from my 65H84, which was very frustrating after so much time spent doing research and doing tweaks on my own. So after a year of owning my Toshiba I finally made an appointment with a infamous ISF tech from Keohi HDTV this past weekend.

Let's just say my "eyeball" settings were quite off and I actually had "blue" push when I always thought I had "red" push, LOL. My settings were all wiped clean and started from scratch, most of the adjustments came within the service menu on parameters no one has ever discussed here and I assume only a ISF tech would know. My lens striping was also wrong and re-applied, and I decided at the last minute for re-stacking of the protective "glare" screen.

During and after the calibration I came to the conclusion it's impossible to do the "correct" settings without the proper equipment and software. The forums come in handy for user help and little tweaks, but to mess around in the service menu beyond doing convergence , is simply going in blindfolded! You cannot adjust one parameter without adjusting another and eyeballing it is impossible. You can make your set look better OTB, but not fabulous.

The ISF post calibration results? I was simply floored!!! :D DVD's had a new sense of depth and clarity, fleshtones were perfect, colors were vibrant without smearing, blacks were black without hiding "detail". I was thinking this is the kind of picture I remember seeing at my local Cineplex were all the rooms are THX certified! It was that good! I paid $2600+Cdn for my 65H84 last year, so the $350/w warranty was definitely worth every penny for ISF calibration. Now I have a fabulous picture and I will never go without ISF calibration on any future sets! I now get excited everytime I have a new DVD to watch or some good HDTV broadcasts. If your on the fence for ISF calibration, don't hesitate, get it, you will glad you did. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE :D !

Like most in here I did everything possible on my own except greyscale since I don't have a color analyzer or the software for "correct" ISF settings.


When I say "software" I'm not talking about Avia or VE DVD's. I believe most ISF techs use PC software from Sencore when they hook it up to your screen, they take the readings generated from that software on their laptops when doing calibration in service mode. :cool:

One of these days, I'm going to get it ISF calibrated. I keep wondering about those adjustments and how they affect other adjustments, etc. I guess I'd just want to make sure I'm getting a really good technician. I'd imagine there are great, good, adequate, and very poor techs out there. Really gotta do your homework! I'm glad to hear of your results, though

Yes, it's good to seek out a reputable ISF Tech, get estimates or a price list. I too sat around for a year debating ISF calibration, since realistically $350Cdn ($300U.S.) can buy you a excellent OPPO or Panasonic S77 dvd player easily. Also of course the lingering thought of "how much better can it get?" "Do you get your money's worth?" Yes I was a disbeleiver! But now I can admit I could have never been more wrong!! :o

Besides, I used to buy top-of-the-line video cables and for what? (Ditto for those who do the same thing and don't get ISF). Now I'm a firm beleiver of buying just decent average cables like Monster Video 2 or 3 tops, and saving the rest towards ISF calibration. You could also save yourself a little more by not having to buy the latest Avia or VE disc cause you really won't need it. I think most people in these forums just need a blue filter since they've been through one or both of these discs several times!

You may be able to get a "reduced" price for ISF calibration if the tech is in a slow period of business or you request something like "grayscale" only.

I was very lucky since my ISF tech. does his craft in more of a labor-of-love fashion, rather than just about the money, during the calibration I could tell he was really enjoying his work........very nice to see in these times! :) I estimate he was at my home for 3hrs.

On any future sets, I will get a model for say $2500 instead of the model for $3K with frivolous features, always making a buffer for the cost of ISF calibration.

Anybody know the route into the designer menu of the H84 series? Is it still accessible? I've tried going into service menu, then using the Recall button on the remote and the menu button on the H84 and it doesn't get me there like on older Toshibas.

Nope, no desiger menu anymore. It's been that way since the 2000/2001 models.

Nope, no desiger menu anymore. It's been that way since the 2000/2001 models.

Are you telling me that there is no service route into a designer mode in any way so that each individual input can be tweaked? If so, that sucks because every input on my set needs adjusting. I get it right for HDMI and component and SVideo suck. Get it right for Component and then HDMI sucks, as well as SVideo. If an authorized Toshiba service center can't go adjust each input, then how can you ever get an H series to look outstanding? Just get everything going in as component and leave it at that? :mad:

For the most part, there is no longer any need for a Designer mode. What model do you have? If it's an 84 or 85, then look for a cluster of parameters that end in "OF". These are the offset values for the particular mode you are currently in. For example, RCOF means Red Cut Offset, the value of which will change depending on what resolution/input type you're feeding the display.

If it's an 83 or earlier model, then the parameters are still there, but they are numbered and I'm not permitted to reveal what means what.

I got a Mighty Shield for my H84. I posted pictured of it here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=621234

Are you telling me that there is no service route into a designer mode in any way so that each individual input can be tweaked? If so, that sucks because every input on my set needs adjusting. I get it right for HDMI and component and SVideo suck. Get it right for Component and then HDMI sucks, as well as SVideo. If an authorized Toshiba service center can't go adjust each input, then how can you ever get an H series to look outstanding? Just get everything going in as component and leave it at that? :mad:I'm noticing a bit of a problem with this as well. My D* box has green push through HDMI, and my DVD has red push over component. If I use one to adjust cuts and drives, the other gets totally whacked. I wish there was a way to deal with this.

For the most part, there is no longer any need for a Designer mode. What model do you have? If it's an 84 or 85, then look for a cluster of parameters that end in "OF". These are the offset values for the particular mode you are currently in. For example, RCOF means Red Cut Offset, the value of which will change depending on what resolution/input type you're feeding the display.

If it's an 83 or earlier model, then the parameters are still there, but they are numbered and I'm not permitted to reveal what means what.

:confused: Okay, so let me make sure I understand these statements because you may just solve a lot of my issues. I have an H84 model.

A. If I am using component input and make changes in service mode, those changes affect ONLY component video?

B. If I change to HDMI input (or S-Video, or Composite) and make changes, then all other settings I made while in component are not affected, so on and so forth?

:confused: Okay, so let me make sure I understand these statements because you may just solve a lot of my issues. I have an H84 model.

A. If I am using component input and make changes in service mode, those changes affect ONLY component video?

B. If I change to HDMI input (or S-Video, or Composite) and make changes, then all other settings I made while in component are not affected, so on and so forth?From my experience this is not the case. Every change I make in service mode affects each input. Does anyone have a different experience with the H84s?

Most service menu adjustments in the H84 affect all inputs globally. However, some
adjustments are not global, and affect only the specific input or scan rate active
at the time. For example, the color decoder adjustments are not global, and the
offset adjustments (ending with "OF") are not global.

The Toshiba H84 sets offer outstanding value, even without calibration. With
proper calibration, they are capable of excellent performance. As typically
delivered from the factory, the grayscale is off (like nearly every other set), the
color decoder is off (like nearly every other set), the geometry is off (like most
other CRTs), and convergence is off (like most other CRTs). All of this can be
corrected via proper calibration. I own a 46H84. I love calibrating these
because the level of improvement afterwards is substantial.

Les Holt
ISF Calibrator San Francisco Bay Area
www.holtmods.com/isf.htm

Holy Cow!! :eek: That about sums up my response. I had Intech Labs, an authorized Toshiba Service Center in Dallas come out on a warranty service call. The tech was Reed. He did an outstanding job. I had red push, geometry issues, focus problems, white line problem and improper grey scale. He came out and did an outstanding job. He set up a Sencore color analizer and got the color balance within 10 degrees of 65K. We worked together on the focus, which threw out the convergence, but he adjusted that to perfection, including geometry. He performed the "fix" for the white line issue that was noted in H83 series (it's still there, but almost totally imperceptible now). He did the adjustments at 480P and 1080i through the component inputs, then tweaked the adjustments on composite, s-video and HDMI to get the best overall color balance for all inputs. He was here for almost four hours. Very impressive work and the set has never looked better.!! :p

The best part? Toshiba paid for it! :D Now is it ISF'd? :rolleyes: Probably not. An ISFer could probably squeeze another 10% improvement out of it, but is that worth spending another $400 on a $950 television? I'd have to say no, but until this tech from Intech came out, I would have spent it. Now.. I'm pleased, so I don't think so.

Apparently, this company sets up a lot of video walls for commercial applications for many different companies, so they are acclimated to providing a thorough "fix" to each cube in the display so that the images look uniform in color temp and intensity. I highly recommend to anyone in the Dallas, TX area that if you have a Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Pioneer, Samsung or Toshiba display, then this company will do wonders for your display!

On your model, the xxOF parameters are offsets for the specific mode you are currently in (RF, NTSC, 480i, 480p, 1080i, HDMI). Be careful when changing resolutions on the fly though (switching your DVD player from interlace to progressive, for example), there's a bit of a bug related to that - if you change resolutions, always change the parameter you are on before changing any values.

The regular RCUT, etc values are globals and will simultaneously change ALL input types.

Oh...one more thing...the contrast offset (CNOF??) only affects one of the picture modes...STANDARD, I believe. It's the only offset control that does nothing in MOVIE mode (which is very frustrating!!).

:confused: Okay, so let me make sure I understand these statements because you may just solve a lot of my issues. I have an H84 model.

A. If I am using component input and make changes in service mode, those changes affect ONLY component video?

B. If I change to HDMI input (or S-Video, or Composite) and make changes, then all other settings I made while in component are not affected, so on and so forth?

I suspect that there's a tech named Reed from a company called Intech Labs that is about to be reemed out by Toshiba for doing excessive warranty work!!

Holy Cow!! :eek: That about sums up my response. I had Intech Labs, an authorized Toshiba Service Center in Dallas come out on a warranty service call. The tech was Reed.

I suspect that there's a tech named Reed from a company called Intech Labs that is about to be reemed out by Toshiba for doing excessive warranty work!!

Either I got him on a slow day and he had the nothing else to do or this company is one of the few service centers that actually try to do a good job out in the field. What part of his repair do you consider to be excessive? Fixing the white line issue? The geometry? The color decoder? The gray scale? The out of focus lens?

Put another way, this tech saved Toshiba from me calling time and time again until it was taken care of. Which is better for Toshiba? 1 trip to do it right, or multiple service calls and a frustrated customer?

Anyway.. your response has promted me to write a letter to the owner of the company commending this tech for his outstanding and knowledgeable service. :)

Don't get me wrong...it's awesome for you that he did all that. But I know for sure that a lot of that is work that Toshiba will not pay for. So it makes me wonder how he/they are claiming for the time spent.

I'm sure you realise that Toshiba can not afford to pay a tech 4 hours time for every customer who buys a TV from them.

Don't get me wrong...it's awesome for you that he did all that. But I know for sure that a lot of that is work that Toshiba will not pay for. So it makes me wonder how he/they are claiming for the time spent.

I'm sure you realise that Toshiba can not afford to pay a tech 4 hours time for every customer who buys a TV from them.

Having worked for an electronics manufacturer, I know that the percent of warranty work is usually pretty low in comparison to the number of units sold of a particular model. That's why extended warranties are such a profit center for the resellers and such a crap shoot for consumers. I'm sure in Toshiba's experience, their beancounters know what to expect as an average during the warranty period of any model they sell.

I have a 57HX93 (last years model) and the difference between the H and HX is two things:

**1. HX is the upgraded Cinema Series which has newer (And presumably better guns)
***2. HX has much improved sound system. Important only if you use the TV in non-surround sound settings, like on daily TV viewing when not player through the home theater.


**Apparently no difference in picture quality after ISF calibration. ***Not an issue.....TV speakers?? :rolleyes:

But I did like the HX series cosmetics a little more, if that's (was) worth the difference $$$! :p

**Apparently no difference in picture quality after ISF calibration.
WHAT??!!!!!!!

WHAT??!!!!!!!

Roger that.

WHAT??!!!!!!!


The "H" series and the "HX" series have the same quality in picture after calibration, regardless of HX series having the Pegasus guns.

Not my quote, this is from the Keohi website from ISF calibrators.

Maybe you can eloborate :confused:

[QUOTE eloborate [/QUOTE]


sp "elaborate" :D

Roger that.

Perhaps you can enlighten me on your knowledge of both models :rolleyes: , since your so quick to answer.

Perhaps you can enlighten me on your knowledge of both models :rolleyes: , since your so quick to answer.

SP "you're" :D

The "H" series and the "HX" series have the same quality in picture after calibration, regardless of HX series having the Pegasus guns.
Ahh...I didn't realise you were making a comparison, but I would still disagree. The Pegasus CRTs always looked to have higher resolution to me. The thing is, the last 1 or 2 model years of HX didn't use the Pegasus CRTs as Toshiba stopped making them.

[QUOTE= The Pegasus CRTs always looked to have higher resolution to me. Toshiba stopped making them.[/QUOTE]

Perhaps....I only quoted what a few reputable ISF calibrators have stated. I beleive their opinion would be unbiased since they more than likley don't own either TV. I could understand higher resoulution if the guns were larger, say 9inch Vs 7 inch guns.

As far as I know the Pegasus CRT's were the same size, if there is a difference it's probably only noticed on test signals and minimal. Probably why Toshiba stopped making them.....besides the fact CRT's were being phased out that is :( .

:D Happy New Year!! :D

**Apparently no difference in picture quality after ISF calibration. ***Not an issue.....TV speakers?? :rolleyes:

But I did like the HX series cosmetics a little more, if that's (was) worth the difference $$$! :p

I was thrown off by the fact you were responding to a post from eight and a half months ago. :confused:

Perhaps....I only quoted what a few reputable ISF calibrators have stated. I beleive their opinion would be unbiased since they more than likley don't own either TV. I could understand higher resoulution if the guns were larger, say 9inch Vs 7 inch guns.
I owned an A/V store and primarly sold Toshiba, but above that, I included a complete calibration on every single set I sold, and did for-hire cals on the weekends too. Without sounding creepy ;) I know Toshiba's intimately.

The metal compound used for the Pegasus' pitch mask wasn't the only advantage to that CRT. It also used a thinner layer of phosphor, where each phosphor spec was round (spherical phosphors) . This led to less scatter and a more refined spot size on the face of the CRT. Hence, higher resolution.

Also, the HX sets that had Pegasus tubes also had a wider bandwidth video amplier (20 vs. 30 Mhz., IIRC), which passed more detail to the CRTs to begin with (you get 78 lines per Mhz.)

In addition, many of the Toshiba sets with the better quality CRTs from a few years ago also used higher quality Niltava lenses, so the combination together resulted in better quality images.

The same was true with Hitachi, which used their best CRTs (wide neck hybrid) on most sets a few years ago, but those can't be found now except on the rare and expensive Directors' Series.

Unfortunately because CRTs are considered "old" technology with lower profit margins, the manufacturers have reduced the parts quality of the more recent sets.

Nevertheless, even with the lower quality parts now common, CRT sets still outperform most "new" technology sets in key parameters.

Les
ISF Calibrator San Francisco Bay Area
www.holtmods.com/isf.htm

I believe it was the HX83 models that had Pegasus CRTs, but not Niltava lenses. On that model year, the Niltava lens was only available on the HX93 (integrated digital tuner models). Also, I don't believe the 46" ever had Niltava lenses, and the 42" never had either.

I've had a 57H84 for almost a year now, been posting on AVS for a few months, and never knew this thread was here... I must be blind :)

Anyway, I have a couple problems I'd like to fix on my set. I have reddish edges on dark screens that can't be eliminated unless I lower the brightness too much. From what I understand, the best way to go about fixing this is to enter the service menu and adjust the RCUT setting. Does that sound about right?

Also, my set seems to have problems displaying certain levels of blue without the color crawling or getting "noisy," if that makes any sense. I've had trouble isolating exactly when/why this occurs, but I see it a lot during indoor football games where there's a lot of blue in the stadium. Blue padded walls around the field and the coaches' shirts (Dallas on ESPN Sunday night is a good example) won't be solid blue, but instead the color will crawl. The color stays within the boundary that it should appear, but just looks like it's moving. It seems to happen more often in lower-light areas, like the blue portions of the background on any ESPN studio show or in the autopsy room on CSI. Lowering the brightness fixes the problem somewhat, but then I lose vividness of colors. I tried setting my display preferences to something based on the "movie" setting, but then my whites turn off-white, and in general the picture is dimmer and shows less detail in dark areas.

I've seen this on HD throught D*, HD OTA, and DVDs coming in at 480p also. It's never been an issue with a video game source at all. I guess the main question is whether this is something I can fix or if it's just a limitation of the TV or the technology. Would an ISF calibration help this at all? Could I make a service menu adjustment, or am I just stuck with this to a certain degree?

From what I understand, the best way to go about fixing this is to enter the service menu and adjust the RCUT setting. Does that sound about right?

Also, my set seems to have problems displaying certain levels of blue without the color crawling or getting "noisy," if that makes any sense.

I've seen this on HD throught D*, HD OTA, and DVDs coming in at 480p also. It's never been an issue with a video game source at all. I guess the main question is whether this is something I can fix or if it's just a limitation of the TV or the technology. Would an ISF calibration help this at all? Could I make a service menu adjustment, or am I just stuck with this to a certain degree?

First, before you make any changes in the service menu, write down, make a speadsheet, something! all the pre-existing values for every service menu item on your set. Retain that as your master. I agree that changing the RCUT values will lower the red push you are seeing on the screen, but changing that will also change your sets grey scale calibration. Have an AVIA disk or Digital Essentials disk handy and monitor your grey scale as you make adjustments.

The H84 will only make changes globally, so unless you are taking everything in from a single input, you will not be able to obtain a perfect grey scale for each input by making these changes alone. A credible service tech or ISF tech can come close, though.

As for the noise, check to make sure that your video cable is not up against your electrical cable. A line conditioning power supply would help, too. Also, you didn't say how your signals were input. I had noticed the same problems in blue with my set until I changed to higher quality component cables, provided additional separation from electrical cables and put terminators on all unused inputs. Everything after that came in much better, with less noise.

Anyway, I have a couple problems I'd like to fix on my set. I have reddish edges on dark screens that can't be eliminated unless I lower the brightness too much. From what I understand, the best way to go about fixing this is to enter the service menu and adjust the RCUT setting. Does that sound about right?

I had this same issue with my 51HC85 and I lowered my RCUT to 7BH. The reddish edges drove me nuts!! Lowering the RCUT my affect greyscale, but the reddish edges are gone and that's what I wanted. I can totally say that I'm very satisfied with my Tv now!! :)

Thanks for the suggestions. I need to send my STB in for service to fix the HDMI, and when it comes back I'll see if using that cable makes any difference. I was using component cables, and I can't vouch for the quality because I'm pretty sure they came with the STB... they could be junk for all I know.

And I've already had one bad experience with a service menu (thankfully it was on a TV that was already trashed) so I think I'll have a ISF tech calibrate my set for that stuff after I move. That way I'll get the red tint and any possible convergence issues from moving taken care of it one shot.

The components I got from comcast were pretty good. YMMV

Hey folks ... slightly off topic issue. (I have an H82 series set) Anyway, if any calibrators/techs have experience with those models, please take a look at this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=626300) regarding the "Evil Pop" on my set. Thanks ...

Hi,

Sorry if I am posting in the wrong section this is the only place I could find . I have a 65NH84 I hear that is the same as 65H84. I am going to replace the protective screen with a non-glare one. I was wondering if anyone hear know the exact size of the protective screen. I measuered it fromt the out side I get 59 inches by 35.5. I have not taken it apart yet just wanted to know if someone may have the correct size so I can order it.

Thanks,
Joe

First time poster, oft curious lurker here.

I've had the 42H82 for a few years now, and it is only recently after I hooked up my XBox 360 that I've noticed a portion of the picture cut off on the right hand side.

I've noticed prior that my TV guide seems to be off centre but chalked that up to the satellite box, and never thought twice about it.

On page 4 of this thread, gofast posted a link to Koeoki HDTV that lead to Convergence, Geometry, and Mechanical Alignment.

ie Set Image Tilt & Centering...Rotate Green Yoke etc....

Is this the best (or only) way to aim the guns and reduce the pic size to fit, or is there another alternative rather than taking apart the TV and tinkering manually? I don't mind doing it, but was wondering if there was an easier method I'm just not seeing here?

To be specific, I'm losing about 2 inches of my picture on the right hand side of the screen and about 1 inch on the bottom which for gaming purposes often cuts off needed displayed info.

Also, question for any other X360 owners and the Toshiba sets, what IYO, looks best in your 360 set up, 720p or 1080i?

Thx guys.

Dar8,

I know in a lot of Xbox 1 games (and PS2 games), you could use an in-game menu to adjust the position/size of the screen. There might be something like that on the 360, either in the Dashboard or the game options themselves.

I've had the same issue with the screen being cut off when I watch cable. After spending a weekend playing with every avaliable opiton, I've determined that the blame belongs to the Scientific Atlantic Box (the way it scales 4:3 to 16:9) and how my Toshiba interprets it. I'm not losing as much of my picture as you are though.

Of course, everything is being run through my Onkyo 602 reciever, so there may be some blame there too.

Thx joker305th for the response.

On the 360 the games are preset in size with no adjustment available (at least of the 6 I've played so far). So it wasn't that.

I've got mine hooked up through my receiver too (Sony STR-DA2000 ES) and your post had me thinking about that, but on direct hook up, same results.

I used the Koeoki directions for mechanical alignment (with a slight lump in my throat), and it seemed to work somewhat, then tweaked it in the service menu (although I never could get up the various test patterns he talked about using his directions).

Visually it's okay now (but I seemed to have over compensated and it's a little off to the left), but now, every so often I get floating blue lines which go away after powering the TV on and off. I'm hoping I haven't done any damage.

Although it wouldn't be entirely bad, there's this 50" Sony rear LCD I've got my eyes on, but the wife sees no need for it yet. :D

Hey, anybody got any experience with a "manufacturer refurbished" 57h84? I'm looking to buy one online and want to know if you would or would not recommend it? I'm wanting a big screen tv, but do not want to part with 1000's of $$$. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Hey, anybody got any experience with a "manufacturer refurbished" 57h84? I'm looking to buy one online and want to know if you would or would not recommend it? I'm wanting a big screen tv, but do not want to part with 1000's of $$$. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Is the manufacturer's warranty going to stay the same as new, one year parts and labor, two years on tubes? If not, caveat emptor.

It's always a roll of the dice when getting refurbed stuff. I've personally always had good luck when buying refurbished but it's always a tossup. If the warranty is the same I say go for it.

It has a 90 day warranty with the option to add 4 years. If that does not cover the tubes, how much is it to replace them? The unit in question is would be $1475 with delivery and 4 year extended warranty. With your experience with Toshiba and this model, would you buy it?

I like the TV. The price is too high for a refurb. At that price plus maybe 300, you could find a new one. Replacing CRT's is very pricey and doing all 3 could cost over half your purchase price. And yes, if they have burn in you'll probably need to replace all 3.

If you do go this route, which I would advise against, pay no more than 1200, due to the additional risk you are shouldering.


Tim

Any ideal where I could buy a new one?

Well, it took me 2 weeks (on my breaks at work) to get through this entire thread, but it was well worth the read. I am a long time Toshiba user (6 years with my TP61H95) and now have an HDTV receiver and decided it was time for an upgrade. I found and purchased a 65HC15 I found online but was local (so I picked it up). From what I have found the 65HC15 is the same as the 65H85, just without the TouchFocus option. It has a manufacture date of Oct. 2005, so I figured I couldn't go wrong (the price was right to - out the door I only paid $780 plus another $100 for 2 year warranty)! I have had it for a week now and am still in the process of setting everything up right. Thanks to the posters here for all the great tips!! I am very used to the Toshiba service menu, so I had no trouble converging the set and turning down RCUT/RDRV (and blue too as they were way out of calibration - anything with red in it was blooming/glowing on the screen really bad, even after turning the contrast to 50 and brightness to 30). Other than that, the picture is great! It will take a while to get used to the widescreen and the different modes, but it sure is nice to see the whole screen filled up (instead of black bars on top and bottom) when watching HDTV!!

I can confirm though that this set does have the problem with the bar when displaying a white screen. It isn't real bad and so far I am the only one that has noticed it, but it is too bad that Toshiba still hasn't implemented a true fix for this issue. Thanks again for all the help here and I hope I can add something to help too...

I have recently begun having problems with my 57H83 Toshiba. When viewing the 'Ant' input the images seem to be fine however when viewing any other input (i.e. S-Video on Video 1, Video 2, etc...) there are severe image problems. It seems as though the screen is not refreshing fast enough; when an image moves across the screen, the image remains where it was previously as well all the way across the screen.

I am unsure what exactly the problem is. I've had two tech's come in and look at it; both with different opinions but no definite resolution.

I am considering replacing the QA02 EEPROM as a start. 'Vance Baldwin' Electronics has them for about $1.50.

1) Does the QA02 EEPROM come pre-programmed with the Toshiba settings or do they have to be programmed manually?

2) Where can I get a copy of the original service settings for this tv so I can check them against what is currently in the tv and if possible where can I get a copy of the Error Codes?

3) Does anybody know what else I could attempt to try to resolve this issue?

Thanks in advance!

I bought the 51HC85 at Best Buy and am having the popping sound and then the convergence resets. The repair guy is coming next Tuesday to take a look at it. Has anyone had theirs fixed and know what the problem is so I can tell him for sure what it is?

Hello, I have a 57H83 and after 1.5 years the picture began to distort/roll down but not off the screen. For instance, when you power up the unit, and where it tells you what input your on (lower right hand corner) would scroll off (bow downwards). Once the the unit would "warm up" you begin to see a picture but there would be horizontal lines all over the screen from top to bottom but the picture was not bowed. The lines are not perfect...more like what I would call a "noisy" picture. This would last for 1 hour then the picture would come in and look normal. After awhile the unit quit doing this until now.

Now it doesn't roll/distort/bow but the horizontal lines still appear sometimes. They appear some when it first powered, sometimes when you are just watching a show, and i've noticed if you change the channel or input it can trigger this noise. The lines can show up if you bump it or they can also go away.

Power supply caps...? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I have till May before the warranty is up on Pic tube but if it just power supply caps or something I can do it. Just don't want to void what warranty I have left and don't want to hit the unit to be able to use it...Thanks and sorry for the long post.

Hey guys. I've been reading through this thread because I'm about to buy a CRT projection. I'm basically between the Toshiba 57HC85 and the Hitachi 57F10A. I got a chance to compare the 51" Toshiba and Hitachis side-by-side and they were very close in terms of PQ. I thought the Hitachi colors were a little better, while the Toshiba looked brighter. That was with whatever settings they had though. The Toshiba would run me around $1400 with a 4year warranty while the Hitachi I would have to wait and see if the price drops back down to 1425 (where it was a few weeks ago). Since the Hitachi is only on Circuit City, I'd end up paying 300-400 for a warranty for the car so I think the $$$ difference isn't worth it

Hey guys. I've been reading through this thread because I'm about to buy a CRT projection. I'm basically between the Toshiba 57HC85 and the Hitachi 57F10A. I got a chance to compare the 51" Toshiba and Hitachis side-by-side and they were very close in terms of PQ. I thought the Hitachi colors were a little better, while the Toshiba looked brighter. That was with whatever settings they had though. The Toshiba would run me around $1400 with a 4year warranty while the Hitachi I would have to wait and see if the price drops back down to 1425 (where it was a few weeks ago). Since the Hitachi is only on Circuit City, I'd end up paying 300-400 for a warranty for the car so I think the $$$ difference isn't worth it

I strongly recommend the Toshiba. I have one and it has exceeded all my expectations after I calibrated it. The colors are bright and vivid and the picture is razor sharp. The scaling engine is also outstanding. DVDs look great and my xbox360 games look spectacular.

I know this may be a litte off the subject at hand, but I was wondering if any experienced Toshiba owners can help me with a little problem I've come across.

I've recently made my final journey into the service menu for my Toshiba RP HDTV. I have the picture looking spectacular, but I now have run into a glitch. Hopefully, it will only be a minor one.

When I go into the user menu to manually adjust the convergence...just to make minor tweeks along the edges...I can't make this selection. Strangely, I can use the auto convergence option, but it still doesn't completely correct the edges. Also, I now have another option in the user menu, just under the tempature setting. It's SVM. This option has a low, high and off setting. I don't think this has anything to do with the convergence, so I won't focus on that.

Can anyone help or offer a suggestion? I've manually tweeked the convergence many times before without a problem...until now. Is there a setting in the service menu that I should re-adjust in order to allow me to correct the convergence?





Thankfully, the convergence isn't a huge issue, but it doen't make sense to leave a job undone.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I know this may be a litte off the subject at hand, but I was wondering if any experienced Toshiba owners can help me with a little problem I've come across.

I've recently made my final journey into the service menu for my Toshiba RP HDTV. I have the picture looking spectacular, but I now have run into a glitch. Hopefully, it will only be a minor one.

When I go into the user menu to manually adjust the convergence...just to make minor tweeks along the edges...I can't make this selection. Strangely, I can use the auto convergence option, but it still doesn't completely correct the edges. Also, I now have another option in the user menu, just under the tempature setting. It's SVM. This option has a low, high and off setting. I don't think this has anything to do with the convergence, so I won't focus on that.

Can anyone help or offer a suggestion? I've manually tweeked the convergence many times before without a problem...until now. Is there a setting in the service menu that I should re-adjust in order to allow me to correct the convergence?

Thankfully, the convergence isn't a huge issue, but it doen't make sense to leave a job undone.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Okay, let's see if I have this correct? When you do a convergence using the USER menu (not service mode), does it or does it not conclude with a geometric grid pattern of + icons with which to converge by hand your final touch-up? If not, then something is amiss. Also, SVM (scan velocity modulation, maybe?) is showing up on your USER menu under the listing of Temperature? If that's so, please tell us what settings you changed in service mode so we can ALL benefit from being able to turn SVM off!

As confusing as it may sound, I believe you have what I'm getting at.

When I do, or use to do, a convergence adjustment from the USER menu, it did include a grid pattern of +'s. I was able to really fine tune at that point. However, I can't get my system to allow me access into that part of the menu any more. Which is the Dilemma at hand.

As for SVM, that's one the many mysteries because I have no clue as to how I made that option appear. None what so ever. If I do manage to figure it out, I will definitely post it.

Is it possible to adjust convergence from the SERVICE menu vs. USER. If so, then I will just converge from that menu.

Is it possible to adjust convergence from the SERVICE menu vs. USER. If so, then I will just converge from that menu.

Yes, and the service menu convergence is much better. I actually find the user menu convergence to be slightly confusing, there's detailed instructions early on in this thread as to how to do a SM congervence... another bonus is you can train the touch focus button to remember your settings.

As confusing as it may sound, I believe you have what I'm getting at.

When I do, or use to do, a convergence adjustment from the USER menu, it did include a grid pattern of +'s. I was able to really fine tune at that point. However, I can't get my system to allow me access into that part of the menu any more. Which is the Dilemma at hand.

As for SVM, that's one the many mysteries because I have no clue as to how I made that option appear. None what so ever. If I do manage to figure it out, I will definitely post it.

Is it possible to adjust convergence from the SERVICE menu vs. USER. If so, then I will just converge from that menu.

All the info you can stand right here:

http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/ToshibaTips.htm

I bought an 65H84 about six months ago, would it be possible to get an extended warranty still? If so, who would it be though and is there any one that would include cleanings and/or calibrations?

Thanks

Is Your HDTV Doomed To 480p Downconversion In 2009?

I have a 57h83, will this apply to users of this set? I know it has an HDMI port, but I've not read many users having much luck with it on this model. I use component to out of an ATI dongle plugged into my HTPC.

http://www.avrev.com/news/0106/26.downconverion_2009.html

I bought an 65H84 about six months ago, would it be possible to get an extended warranty still? If so, who would it be though and is there any one that would include cleanings and/or calibrations?

Thanks

You should read this first:

http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/04_51/b3913110_mz020.htm

I have my HD STB going into my 46H84 via HDMI and the image is great, colors are great and the color saturation is vibrant and rich. However, when I use my DVD using component, in order to turn off the Scan Velocity Modulation, I have to first select Movie mode.

When I select Movie mode, the image instantly becomes much clearer and 3 dimensional, but the color saturation becomes dull. I can crank up the color using the User Menu all the way to 100, but it still remains dull.

I hate to mess with the service mode settings because my HDMI input is so beautiful that I'd hate to mess that up. Are there any suggestions as to what I can adjust in service mode that will only change the color saturation level for the component input without using an external processor? I've tried this both in 480i and in 480P (Faroudja DCDi). The image is better with the Faroudja processing, but both selections remain dull in Movie mode. Otherwise, the color saturation is great in the other modes, but then I have to deal with the SVM issue. Any recommendations?

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Tap-Tap! Hello?

Sorry, I wish I had some advice. Note, though, that my 57h84 doesn't display the color problem you describe when I use movie mode and components for my DVD player. Perhaps your TV requires a technician? Maybe a professional calibration would fix the problem? Best of luck.

Sorry, I wish I had some advice. Note, though, that my 57h84 doesn't display the color problem you describe when I use movie mode and components for my DVD player. Perhaps your TV requires a technician? Maybe a professional calibration would fix the problem? Best of luck.

Thanks. I've had the professional calibration. TV looks phenomenal, except of that one Movie Mode. I'm thinking there may be a way to disable SVM and wanted some advice from somebody who may know how.

I'm going to take a look at this tonight to see if it's the same.

http://www.montac.com/ht/65h80/svm/

When I select Movie mode, the image instantly becomes much clearer and 3 dimensional, but the color saturation becomes dull. I can crank up the color using the User Menu all the way to 100, but it still remains dull.

Just out of curiosity ... what "mode" are you switching out of?

On later model Toshibas, most professional calibrators will start off from movie mode in order to shut off the SVM. I suspect that your "non-DVD" mode is probably *not* properly calibrated, since (at least on my H82 set) there is only one "user" memory. There probably is a 480p input specific color setting somewhere in the SM, but historically these tend to get changed each model year.

Just out of curiosity ... what "mode" are you switching out of?

On later model Toshibas, most professional calibrators will start off from movie mode in order to shut off the SVM. I suspect that your "non-DVD" mode is probably *not* properly calibrated, since (at least on my H82 set) there is only one "user" memory. There probably is a 480p input specific color setting somewhere in the SM, but historically these tend to get changed each model year.

I'm going to MOVIE MODE from PREFERENCE MODE.

In reading other posts, I'm curious about disabling SVM from the board on the neck of the tubes. Anybody here have any experience doing this? I will do it if that's the answer.

My color balance is perfect. I don't want to change that at all, but somehow, unless I can totally disable SVM, I need to find a way to only boost the color level for 480P when switching to Movie Mode to disable SVM.

I'm going to take a look at this tonight to see if it's the same.

http://www.montac.com/ht/65h80/svm/

SWEEEEEEEET! Give that man a cigar! :D

I'll try this and see if it works out. Has anybody on this forum actually done this and is able to report the results?

Here is another way but if you go all the way to the bottom it says to just do it the way the first link says. I'm going to try the service menu way first to check but I'll probably go ahead and remove the power plug anyway so I'm sure. I don't know how hard it's going to be to get the cover off hy 51HC85.

Anyone know how?

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/toshiba/generaltweaks/svm_disable.html

I'm going to MOVIE MODE from PREFERENCE MODE. .

Well I'm at a lost as to what your "professional calibrator" did. On my set (H82 series) if you start in Movie mode and then make adjustments to any of the user settings, the TV will automatically switch to Preference mode - with SVM disabled. This is the "standard", accepted way of calibrating these sets.

If you start from "Sports" or "Standard," it will still click over to "Preference" once adjustments are made but SVM will remain active.

Disconnecting the SVM coils is not necessary, unless Tosh changed the behavior mentioned above for the H83/84/... series. And I think I would have heard about that somewhere, if it were the case. :)

I could give you the relevent H82 registers to adjust, but they are probably different on your set.

PS: Granted the HDMI input is an unknown variable to me

if you start in Movie mode and then make adjustments to any of the user settings, the TV will automatically switch to Preference mode - with SVM disabled. This is the "standard", accepted way of calibrating these sets.



I'm reading places that it is not turned off but set to Low. Also movie mode doesn't look that great to me. It seems the colors are to smooth for TV. I'd like to start with the other presets and go from there.

From the second link I posted......

If you look at the factory settings, you'll see they're either 06 or 07 -- Low or High. For Theater Mode, SVM is set to "Low", not "Off" as many seem to think. To turn it completely off, put all the SVM settings at "05".

I'm reading places that it is not turned off but set to Low.

I can assure you that it set "Low" enough as to be completely "off." And I could demonstrate it visually ... The information you've "read" applies to an earlier (pre H82) series of TVs. There is no "Theater Mode" on my set ... but again it's an H82 not an H84 (or an "ancient" H80 for that matter :D )

This is the danger of getting information second hand off the net vs. an actual service manual. :)

I can assure you that it set "Low" enough as to be completely "off." And I could demonstrate it visually ... The information you've "read" applies to an earlier (pre H82) series of TVs. There is no "Theater Mode" on my set ... but again it's an H82 not an H84 (or an "ancient" H80 for that matter :D )

This is the danger of getting information second hand off the net vs. an actual service manual. :)


BESIDES svm what is the difference between the sports, movie, and standard settings? I just don't like the way movie mode looks on TV even with svm off and I don't want to be forced to have to use it because of svm. Not being combative just trying to learn. ;)

I'm going to try the service mode tonight on a test pattern so I'll find out for sure about the low and off and I'll post up later.

BESIDES svm what is the difference between the sports, movie, and standard settings?.

Nothing ... they just (sports and standard) crank the contrast, sharpness and perhaps the color saturation up *way* too high - and they are just "presets." Again once you start making any user control adjustments, it going to click over to "preference" anyway.

Furthermore, there is no way to get a stable, flat grayscale at the "torch mode" settings that "Sports" and "Standard" provide.