Well I'm at a lost as to what your "professional calibrator" did.

Well, you got me on that.

Let's see.... Hmmm? He set up a Sencore color analyzer and a computer and worked on it for about an hour and a half to two hours using input signals for 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. This was after he worked for a couple of hours adjusting the focus on the trim pots and the focus on the lens. This was after he defeated the white line issue for me. This was after he adjusted the set's geometry, which came after removing the screen and cleaning the lenses and blowing compressed, dry air through the chassis to clear out dust and cosmic debris.

So, other than making the picture on the set look 1000% better in almost every way (other than this one Movie mode issue), I, too, am at a "loss", not "lost", of what he did in his "professional calibration". :)

Did the pro make adjustments for each input (hdmi, component, svid, etc.)?

Well I just got home and took off the cover and it's not the same as the pictures. There is a center top chip with lines going to each gun but the connectors are glued down!!! I'm not going to risk breaking the board.

Second thing I tried is the VSM setting in the service menu. After looking playing it with it on my 51HC85 it was on the low setting not off. It cycles pretty much like the site I posted said except it looks like it has a medium setting to it. It cycles to off, low, medium, high, off as you raise the values. I switched to off for now and it stays like that for all inputs and settings.

Well I just got home and took off the cover and it's not the same as the pictures. There is a center top chip with lines going to each gun but the connectors are glued down!!! I'm not going to risk breaking the board.

Second thing I tried is the VSM setting in the service menu. After looking playing it with it on my 51HC85 it was on the low setting not off. It cycles pretty much like the site I posted said except it looks like it has a medium setting to it. It cycles to off, low, medium, high, off as you raise the values. I switched to off for now and it stays like that for all inputs and settings.

Great. I'll get to after the wife goes to sleep and report results. Did you use an Avia or some other test disk?

UPDATE TO ABOVE: Now turned off. No SVM on, but both Sports and Standard still seem to be using SVM, no matter what change I make to VSM in the SM.

Sorry if this issue has already been addressed...

I recently noticed that the convergence on my 57H84 had somehow slipped; the right side of the screen was visibly unaligned. I did the automatic convergence adjustment from the menu (that setting has always been good enough for me) and that fixed the problem.

Now, about a week or so later, I notice the same thing happening, only this time I notice that both sides of the screen have become unaligned. The center seems to be unaffected. The auto-convergence from the menu fixed the problem again, but I can't figure out why this could be happening. The only real change to the order of the TV's room has been the addition of an Xbox 360 game console, which is around five feet away from the TV (and I hardly believe that could affect convergence anyway).

My warranty is up next month, so if I see this happen again within the next week I'll definitely be calling a technician. Has this happened to anyone else's set? Are there any enviornmental variables that could play into this?

Sorry if this issue has already been addressed...

I recently noticed that the convergence on my 57H84 had somehow slipped; the right side of the screen was visibly unaligned. I did the automatic convergence adjustment from the menu (that setting has always been good enough for me) and that fixed the problem.

Now, about a week or so later, I notice the same thing happening, only this time I notice that both sides of the screen have become unaligned. The center seems to be unaffected. The auto-convergence from the menu fixed the problem again, but I can't figure out why this could be happening. The only real change to the order of the TV's room has been the addition of an Xbox 360 game console, which is around five feet away from the TV (and I hardly believe that could affect convergence anyway).

My warranty is up next month, so if I see this happen again within the next week I'll definitely be calling a technician. Has this happened to anyone else's set? Are there any enviornmental variables that could play into this?

I'm assuming that's a one year warranty, right? I'll be watching for this, but relatively inexpensive and expensive CRTs can drift over time and it not be a warranty issue. How unaligned are you talking? Can you submit a pic?

So, other than making the picture on the set look 1000% better in almost every way (other than this one Movie mode issue), I, too, am at a "loss", not "lost", of what he did in his "professional calibration". :)

LOL ... So we are going to harp on speelling are whee? ;) :D

Anyway, the point I was making ... Is that it makes absolutely no sense to do all that work and not take steps to disable SVM on all inputs and resolutions. :) This is a simple step that can be accomplished by starting from movie mode in the first place and this why I'm completely confused by your question. ;)

Get yer money back ;) Or beg and plead to MichaelTLV and see if he knows where the mode specific registers are on your set.

Great. I'll get to after the wife goes to sleep and report results. Did you use an Avia or some other test disk?

UPDATE TO ABOVE: Now turned off. No SVM on, but both Sports and Standard still seem to be using SVM, no matter what change I make to VSM in the SM.

Remeber that it changes all of the main settings when you move to those. Change it standard and go into the service menu and toggle the VSM value. You will see that it stays where you left it and that it's still off.

Man that is a nasty feature. When I turned it all the way up it was making some things look chrome!!!

Hi all. I have a 42H83 that I bought a couple of years ago (at least). It has a problem with how is displays the image on the screen. I did not really notice this when I purchased it, but it is very noticable while using my xbox 360 and I see it all the time now with HD content.

When facing the TV the image is shifted to the right side and is larger than the screen. For example, when playing Perfect Dark Zero I can only see a small portion of the HUD on the right side of the screen, which cuts off items like the ammo counter. Similarly on HD content part of station bug gets cut off.

I do not have an issue with convergence. It just seems like the whole projection assembly is too far to one side and is pushing out an image that is too large for the 42" viewing area. I have not tried to go into the service menu.

Any ideas on how I can fix this? Will it take a service tech? Also, What is SVM and VSM?

Thanks

On my older TP61H95, I found that when I connected an HDTV tuner at 1080i, there is a separate convergence that has to be done (one for 480 (normal) and a separate one for 1080 sources). Not sure if the 42H83 is the same or not. Have you tried switching the XBOX to 480i/p and see if you still have the same problem?

That's no longer the case, one convergence for all scan rates since the 81 series I believe (likely a cost cutting measure at the expense of PQ!) ...

Cheers,

PBC

I'm assuming that's a one year warranty, right? I'll be watching for this, but relatively inexpensive and expensive CRTs can drift over time and it not be a warranty issue. How unaligned are you talking? Can you submit a pic?

Yes, just the year warranty. I would understand it drifting over time (and expect that, honestly), but this seemed to happen fairly suddenly. I was watching American Idol (very colorful show) and all at once realized that several inches into the picture from the right side of the screen were very blurry. The closeup shots of the judges showed a nice thick coat of red on top of their left shoulders where the "drifting" had happened. I used my Tivo menu screen to verify this since it shows small station logos down a column of the right of the screen, and sure enough, the colors had very much separated.

I wish I had a picture, but I re-ran the automatic convergence adjustment after that. It's almost as if the area under the TV had an inexplicably strong gravitational pull, which doesn't make any sense. After I reset the convergence for the second time, everything has been normal.

On my older TP61H95, I found that when I connected an HDTV tuner at 1080i, there is a separate convergence that has to be done (one for 480 (normal) and a separate one for 1080 sources). Not sure if the 42H83 is the same or not. Have you tried switching the XBOX to 480i/p and see if you still have the same problem?

Thanks for the tip. The issue is that I see this "Effect" through every input, DVI and component.

Thanks for the tip. The issue is that I see this "Effect" through every input, DVI and component.I'm seeing the exact same thing happen on my 46H84 with a GameCube, whether sent in as composite ot component. I'm thinking that I may need an inexpensive interface.

Hey guys. How does SD programming look on your Toshibas? I might pull the trigger on a 57HC85....

It looks ok. With a bigger screen you are going to see more imperfections. After I got my 51 I stick with mostly HD shows. I don't think Toshiba SD is any better or worse than the other brands. It does have some of the best stretch modes I have seen.

Hey guys. How does SD programming look on your Toshibas? I might pull the trigger on a 57HC85....

I have the 65H84 and think it does a good job with SD. The best compliment that I can give it is that I very rarely am watching SD and think "man, that looks bad".

Now, if I do switch from watching HD to a SD show, you can really see the difference but that is not Toshiba's fault :)

People with the 57HC85... I checked the Toshiba site and they list a 57H85 (C) which is the Canadian model. That says that the warranty is not valid outside of Canada. I called Toshiba and the person on the phone sounded unsure. I am about to buy it, but want to be sure the warranty will be valid. I won't be getting an extended warranty because I have a mastercard which will give me a year extra.

Hey guys. How does SD programming look on your Toshibas? I might pull the trigger on a 57HC85....

Depends on the source. There's relatively good SD and really bad SD. ... GIGO ;)

Depends on the source. There's relatively good SD and really bad SD. ... GIGO ;)

Ditto. SD is rather weak, but it depends on the channel.

I love the blacks in the CRT RPTVs, but frankly, I'm getting tired of the issues with CRT RPTV. Calibration, ISFing, secret menus, lenticular screens, screen protectors, removing them, striping the lenses, installing duvatyne. It's not that I don't love a good challenge, it's just that after a while, other things take precedence, you know.

I just want to buy a display that every flippin' time I turn it on I don't want to run for the remote to adjust it in some sort of way. I have a beautiful picture, don't get me wrong, but it takes work and effort.

Ditto. SD is rather weak, but it depends on the channel.

I love the blacks in the CRT RPTVs, but frankly, I'm getting tired of the issues with CRT RPTV. Calibration, ISFing, secret menus, lenticular screens, screen protectors, removing them, striping the lenses, installing duvatyne. It's not that I don't love a good challenge, it's just that after a while, other things take precedence, you know.

I just want to buy a display that every flippin' time I turn it on I don't want to run for the remote to adjust it in some sort of way. I have a beautiful picture, don't get me wrong, but it takes work and effort.

Amen to that. I don't remember the last time I watched a whole movie without getting into the service menu because something looked off. Hopefully I'll get it where I like it one day.

Ditto. SD is rather weak, but it depends on the channel.

I love the blacks in the CRT RPTVs, but frankly, I'm getting tired of the issues with CRT RPTV. Calibration, ISFing, secret menus, lenticular screens, screen protectors, removing them, striping the lenses, installing duvatyne. It's not that I don't love a good challenge, it's just that after a while, other things take precedence, you know.

I just want to buy a display that every flippin' time I turn it on I don't want to run for the remote to adjust it in some sort of way. I have a beautiful picture, don't get me wrong, but it takes work and effort.

I experienced the same thing and ended up selling my h83 for a 720 dila. Had to give up the black levels but got tired of convergences, isf visits, etc. Will upgrade after a while but it is a plus to just turn the set on and watch.

Ditto. SD is rather weak, but it depends on the channel.


In a bizarre twist, OTA Analog SD via the built in tuners looks pretty good while "100% Digital Quality" from my DBS provider is very painful to watch ... Beer tends to help that problem ;) :D

Hey guys. I've owned a 57H83 for close to 2 years now. It's been a great set and I absolutely love the PQ I get with it. I hosted a SB party this past weekend and had people raving about it all night. I've done a lot of tweaking to it myself including an E & M focus, protective screen removal, lens cleaning, geometry adjustment using a homemade geometry template, service convergence, and calibrations using Avia and DVE. I'm pretty picky when I'm viewing something on it, and have looked and looked for the "white line" issue. So far, I haven't seen it, which leads me to believe it isn't present. But I have noticed something similar...

about 2 inches from the left side of the screen there is a line that runs from top to bottom. It's grayish in color, a little fuzzy (not a sharp line) and is a few millimeters thick. It's been there as long as I can remember. It doesn't stand out all that much, but if I pointed it out, you wouldn't have to squint or look very hard for it. It's much more obvious in some scenes than it is in others depending on the brightness and color of the viewing material.

I started wondering if this might be a white line issue, but the tech bulletin describes the white line as being approx. 1 inch from the center of the screen, whereas mine is close to the left edge. I'll definitely try to photograph it and get it up here. I'm just wondering if anyone else has seen anything like this. I have 1 yr left on my best buy warranty, but now that I've removed the screen and done all of these tweaks I don't know if they'd do anything for me.

Does anyone know where I can pick up one of those matte finish protective screen replacements for a 42H83? There is a long wall of glass doors in my new house and even with the blinds closed it still causes a great deal of reflection in the screen.

Should I just remove the shiny factory protective screen? If so where can i find directions on how to do that?

Thanks.

Don't know if this is stupid question, but here it goes. When setting brightness with the Avia disc using the screen with moving vertical bars, should I set my 57H84 to natural or Theater 1 mode? I ask because when it is in Theater 1 I get brightness setting at 40 and when in Natural or Full get setting of 45. Thanks Contrast is set to 45.

Set the brightness for whichever mode you use most often. On my set, the stretched and full modes are consistant, but the grey sidebars in 480i/p "natural" mode pump up the blacklevel. You may also discover that your 1080i "brightness" setting might differ.

Thanks, like I said in stretched and full modes I get 45 brightness. But when I watch my Dish network regular (in stretched) and HD 1080i (natural) and then keep switching the channels to see a black screen that the black looks washed out, but looks more black when I set brightness to 40. This is probably not a good way to be adjusting it. Dvds look great at 45. I just assume there is a difference in calibration settings between DVD player and Dish receiver. Use component connections for both. Thanks

Hey guys. I've owned a 57H83 for close to 2 years now. It's been a great set and I absolutely love the PQ I get with it. I hosted a SB party this past weekend and had people raving about it all night. I've done a lot of tweaking to it myself including an E & M focus, protective screen removal, lens cleaning, geometry adjustment using a homemade geometry template, service convergence, and calibrations using Avia and DVE. I'm pretty picky when I'm viewing something on it, and have looked and looked for the "white line" issue. So far, I haven't seen it, which leads me to believe it isn't present. But I have noticed something similar...
I started wondering if this might be a white line issue, but the tech bulletin describes the white line as being approx. 1 inch from the center of the screen, whereas mine is close to the left edge. I'll definitely try to photograph it and get it up here. I'm just wondering if anyone else has seen anything like this. I have 1 yr left on my best buy warranty, but now that I've removed the screen and done all of these tweaks I don't know if they'd do anything for me.

I also have a 57h83 that is about 2 years old and I have 2 problems:

1) I have not just 1 white line but 1/2 inch-wide vertical light bars that traverse the entire length of the screen...once again, not what the posting referred to exactly any idea what this could be? they are faint but noticable when viewing certain shows--especially dvd's but also regular tv and hd programs regardles of input. it is not clear that they are any worse or better in light or dark scenes

2) The screen is tinted green but ONLY when there is nothing shown on the screen--it goes away when there is content presented at a certain place on the screen-i.e. no tint playing a dvd movie and color is great but on the (what should be black) sides of a standard def show presented in 1080 mode over a hi def channel what should be black is fairly heavily tinted green. The whole screen can appear this way if there is no input. any idea how to fix this or what it is? how does one access the "pots" could adjusting the green one fix this? or would it be a service menu fix? I actually contacted toshiba about this but the authorized repair person in my area of remote NH refused to come out unless I paid him $250 in advance despite that toshiba had agreed to pay for the repair when it was still under warranty (which it is not currently--he said toshiba would never pay him for it). I have calibrated it with DVE and like I said teh color when something is purposefully on the screen is great.

Hi,

I've had my Tosh 65HX93 for almost 2 years now. Im pretty satisfied with it, but I was wondering if anyone knew where I could pick up a service manual. I have material to make some geometry/convergence patterns, but don't have the dimensions I should use for the gridlines for the different modes.

Thanks,
Rick

It has almost been a year since I bought my 65H84 and I just made my second service call today (IC board problems...).

Is there any sort of "lemon Law" with Toshiba where they may replace a set that has been servced x amount of times?

Also, is there a way to purchase an extended warrenty before the original runs out?

2) The screen is tinted green but ONLY when there is nothing shown on the screen--it goes away when there is content presented at a certain place on the screen-i.e. no tint playing a dvd movie and color is great but on the (what should be black) sides of a standard def show presented in 1080 mode over a hi def channel what should be black is fairly heavily tinted green. The whole screen can appear this way if there is no input. any idea how to fix this or what it is? how does one access the "pots" could adjusting the green one fix this? or would it be a service menu fix? I actually contacted toshiba about this but the authorized repair person in my area of remote NH refused to come out unless I paid him $250 in advance despite that toshiba had agreed to pay for the repair when it was still under warranty (which it is not currently--he said toshiba would never pay him for it). I have calibrated it with DVE and like I said teh color when something is purposefully on the screen is great.

Sounds like to much green cut. You can really screw up your tv in here but try going into the service menu - push mute 3 times holding down on the last push and then hit menu on the front of the TV. There should be a S on the screen. Hit menu on the remote and you are in the service menu. It should say RCUT on the screen. Hit the channel up until you see GCUT (it should only be one or two clicks away so if you don't see it your going the wrong way and hit channel down instead). Use the volume down to knock it down a few clicks. Turn off TV to get out of service mode. Make sure you have a program on the screen where you see the issue so you can tell if it's working.

Write down what it was before you change it!!!! I had the exact same problem with blacks being red and dropping the RCUT fixed it for me.

Does anyone know where I might be able to purchase an extended warranty for my 65H84 where they would not require me to have at least 90 days remaining on my original warranty? I have about 45 days remaining only...

Sounds like to much green cut. You can really screw up your tv in here but try going into the service menu - push mute 3 times holding down on the last push and then hit menu on the front of the TV. There should be a S on the screen. Hit menu on the remote and you are in the service menu. It should say RCUT on the screen. Hit the channel up until you see GCUT (it should only be one or two clicks away so if you don't see it your going the wrong way and hit channel down instead). Use the volume down to knock it down a few clicks. Turn off TV to get out of service mode. Make sure you have a program on the screen where you see the issue so you can tell if it's working.

Write down what it was before you change it!!!! I had the exact same problem with blacks being red and dropping the RCUT fixed it for me.


Thanks so much--problem appears to be solved....now if I could only get rid of those pesky transient vertical lines...

I'd do a search or post up in the display calibration area. I'm sure someone in there can fix you up. Glad that worked for you.

65H84 Burn-in.

We'll, I guess I found this thread a little too late. I had the unit about 14 months when my neighbor noticed the dreadded burn-in from the 4:3 vertical bars. They are only evident when there are whites or light colored images on the screen.

I'll turn down the contrast and brightness. I'll also set Auto-Aspect on. But is there anything else I can to to prevent further damage, or even correct this a little?

Tim

65H84 Burn-in.

We'll, I guess I found this thread a little too late. I had the unit about 14 months when my neighbor noticed the dreadded burn-in from the 4:3 vertical bars. They are only evident when there are whites or light colored images on the screen.

I'll turn down the contrast and brightness. I'll also set Auto-Aspect on. But is there anything else I can to to prevent further damage, or even correct this a little?

Tim

Do a search for "burn in" on the forum... there's a huge thread specifically about how to reverse the effects. I believe you can display a reverse image and try to even out the burn, but I'm not sure how. That thread has all the information.

Out of curiousity, how often was your set in 4:3 mode?

Well. With the kids at home, the TV was probably on 5-6 hours a day in that mode. Pretty heavy use, but happened fast. I didn't think these TV's would burn in at all. I guess I should have researched the TV like I did my speakers and receiver. Hind site is 20-20.

Well, after lots of fighting and many return visits by 2 repair companies, Toshiba has made the following offer.

1--refund of the tv ( it seems that they do not make this or another model to compare to it.

2--replace it with a refurbished unit, with a new 1 year warrantee on it.

This is all becuase of the white line issue. I am not sure what is my best option, as I have had no luck finding anything like this tv for anywhere near the price, and I am not too happy about the thought of a refurbished model. Any opinions? Let me hear them please.

Troy

All my colors are distorted, it seperates red, green, and what appears to be yellow, and everything is outlined in these colors, i have reverted all settings to defaults, and i have tried doing a touch focus, it then says tiouch focus failed...please, if anyone can help me i would love you forever...please, i am a 16 year old kid and that tv is my fathers baby...lol, so i kinda really need help before i get my ass beat. thanks guys.

All my colors are distorted, it seperates red, green, and what appears to be yellow, and everything is outlined in these colors, i have reverted all settings to defaults, and i have tried doing a touch focus, it then says tiouch focus failed...please, if anyone can help me i would love you forever...please, i am a 16 year old kid and that tv is my fathers baby...lol, so i kinda really need help before i get my ass beat. thanks guys.

Mine kind of made a "pop" sound the other day and then the colors were similar to what you described. I went into the convergance screen and the colors were not aligned. I aligned them and the screen looked better but I got a error when I ran the Touch focus.

Bottom line was I had to call for service because the picture kept getting worse and the picture actually started to constantly "pulse" and change sizes...

Well, after lots of fighting and many return visits by 2 repair companies, Toshiba has made the following offer.

1--refund of the tv ( it seems that they do not make this or another model to compare to it.

2--replace it with a refurbished unit, with a new 1 year warrantee on it.

This is all becuase of the white line issue. I am not sure what is my best option, as I have had no luck finding anything like this tv for anywhere near the price, and I am not too happy about the thought of a refurbished model. Any opinions? Let me hear them please.

Troy

65h14 is a costco model right? I'd consider taking the refurb. If in a year you're unhappy, then return it to costco. they have a very liberal return policy. Alternatively, if you take the refund, I'd check out the 65 hitachi's. I think a current 65 is http://www.hitachi.us/tv/browse/projection/16-9digital/65F710A.shtml

Best,
jeff

Well, I've got a spider living inside my set. Any recommendations in terms of getting it out of there? I've got the 57H84 so I can separate the set but was wondering if it was "easy" to vacuum the inside without damaging any components.

I think I might clean the lenses as well while I'm at it. All I have is some water and a shop vac to work with......comments?

Thanks all...

Hmmm ... not sure I would go the vacuum route. While it should be fine, you never know if you may have some loose connections in their and next thing you know you've vacuumed up a chip that was loosely soldered to some board!!

Just open her up and wipe it down with a dry cloth ... give it a good look with a flash light. Watch out that you don't scratch the mirror.

As for the lenses, buy some lens solution (Rosco or other brand) that you can purchase from a Camera lens store in your area. There was another make that is much more expensive, but I can't recall. Not sure you'd want to use a soap/water solution, unless it's very very mild.

... And DO NOT under any circumstances use a can of "compressed air" to "dry off" the lenses ... ( From the stupid one who learned the hard way :D )

Well....I got the spider. He was in there all right, along with the numerous webs that sucker spun. Lenses had plenty o dust on em too.....cleaned em up. All is well. My set is in the cellar so I'm not surprised that the spider got in there but it was funny......:)

... And DO NOT under any circumstances use a can of "compressed air" to "dry off" the lenses ... ( From the stupid one who learned the hard way :D )

Does that mean you shouldnt use can of compressed air to blow dust off the lenses?

I thought using compressed air would be better than touching them with anything?

Thanks,
Rick

Does that mean you shouldnt use can of compressed air to blow dust off the lenses?

Still not a good idea even with dry lenses. The lenses actually have several seperate lenses stacked up in the barrel ... and there are air pockets in between the individual lenses. Furthermore, it turns out that the barrels are not completely sealed, and this can allow air (dust) and liquids to infiltrate between individual lenses if you use enough "push" (aka compressed air.) There is no easy way to disassemble the lens barrels to get at the internal surfaces of the lenses. So, if you mess up and drive cleaning fluid or dust in between the lenses, you're going to have a major problem.

Finally, most of the dust particles are going to be "adhered" to the lens surface and will need to be "unstuck" by some type of liquid before they can be safely removed without scratching the lens surface. Compressed air alone will not budge the adhered dust.

In short, while it sounds simple and straight forward, lens cleaning is not a task to be taken lightly.

Still not a good idea even with dry lenses. The lenses actually have several seperate lenses stacked up in the barrel ... and there are air pockets in between the individual lenses. Furthermore, it turns out that the barrels are not completely sealed, and this can allow air (dust) and liquids to infiltrate between individual lenses if you use enough "push" (aka compressed air.) There is no easy way to disassemble the lens barrels to get at the internal surfaces of the lenses. So, if you mess up and drive cleaning fluid or dust in between the lenses, you're going to have a major problem.

Finally, most of the dust particles are going to be "adhered" to the lens surface and will need to be "unstuck" by some type of liquid before they can be safely removed without scratching the lens surface. Compressed air alone will not budge the adhered dust.

In short, while it sounds simple and straight forward, lens cleaning is not a task to be taken lightly.


Ok, thanks for the heads up.

Rick

There certainly was some dust 'stuck' to the lenses. I used tap water (spring water for the most part) on a paper towel to clean them off. I'm not happy with using water but that's all I had. I wasn't about to use windex on those lenses...

The mirror was dusty too - but not as bad as the lenses. Cleaned the mirror off using a dry cloth. All went well - not a professional job but at least I did it to the best of my abilities.

does anyone know what's the matter with my 51h83 projection tv? It has wavey red,blue and green horizontal lines going across my screen. Does anyone have a suggestion to a fix?

There certainly was some dust 'stuck' to the lenses. I used tap water (spring water for the most part) on a paper towel to clean them off. I'm not happy with using water but that's all I had. I wasn't about to use windex on those lenses...

The mirror was dusty too - but not as bad as the lenses. Cleaned the mirror off using a dry cloth. All went well - not a professional job but at least I did it to the best of my abilities.


How old was your set? And did you notice any improvement in Picture?

It sounds like this isn't a trivail thing to do, but I'd like to keep my Pic as good as possible.

Rick

... And DO NOT under any circumstances use a can of "compressed air" to "dry off" the lenses ... ( From the stupid one who learned the hard way :D )

You may want to try blowing off with your mouth clearly visible dusts. Use Eagle 1 glass cleaner for finishing. Do not apply it directly on the surface. Use a cloth for cleaning glass such as the one from scotch (3M) or from your local optometrist. Don't wipe too hard.

While doing what iS described above, you may also want to use a flash light with white beam.

This how I DO IT. Works like magic.

about 2 inches from the left side of the screen there is a line that runs from top to bottom. It's grayish in color, a little fuzzy (not a sharp line) and is a few millimeters thick. It's been there as long as I can remember. It doesn't stand out all that much, but if I pointed it out, you wouldn't have to squint or look very hard for it. It's much more obvious in some scenes than it is in others depending on the brightness and color of the viewing material.

I started wondering if this might be a white line issue, but the tech bulletin describes the white line as being approx. 1 inch from the center of the screen, whereas mine is close to the left edge. I'll definitely try to photograph it and get it up here. I'm just wondering if anyone else has seen anything like this. I have 1 yr left on my best buy warranty, but now that I've removed the screen and done all of these tweaks I don't know if they'd do anything for me.


Toshiba posted a service bulletin for this problem. You have to install a jumper between to components on your electronic board found at the bottom of the set.

I've lurked around this thread for quite some time and thought it was about time I added something and I'm sure others have faced the same issue--how to put a large center channel on top of the TV.

I've had a 65H84 for about a year. I've got a Paradigm CC370 v3 center, which is quite large and heavy. I had read of people having sagging issues with heavy center so when I bought the TV, I put 5'+ x 12in x 1in board on top of the TV and jury-rigged it so it was level. The majority of the weight was on the outside frame of the TV, but it looked terrible.

Recently, a friend of mine moved and was getting rid of some glass shelves. They just happened to be exactly 5' long (which just happened to be the width of the 65H84). The glass is probably 3/8" thick. I bought 4 door stops at Home Depot. Two of them are flipped upside down placed on top of the set in the middle where the back slants away from the center. I've got the other 2 angling the CC370 toward the listening position. I put felt furniture pads under the front corners of the glass and in the middle under the speaker. There is very little weight on the middle of the TV frame and you can hardly see the glass. It's level and very stable. And, most importantly, my wife is much happier with the aesthetics.

I'm not familar with the tops of the other H84 models, but I assume this solution would work for them as well. Thought I'd share this in case anyone was having the same issues.

Dan

You may want to try blowing off with your mouth clearly visible dusts. Use Eagle 1 glass cleaner for finishing. Do not apply it directly on the surface. Use a cloth for cleaning glass such as the one from scotch (3M) or from your local optometrist. Don't wipe too hard.

While doing what iS described above, you may also want to use a flash light with white beam.

This how I DO IT. Works like magic.


Thanks. I have some microfiber cloth that I use to clean the front of the screen, do you know if these are ok to use for cleaning the lenses as well?

Thanks
Rick

Thanks. I have some microfiber cloth that I use to clean the front of the screen, do you know if these are ok to use for cleaning the lenses as well?

Thanks
Rick

Yes, but don't use the same cloth for cleaning the same component.

Does anyone know what resolutions the 57H84 supports? Like 480p, 480i, 720p, 1080i, or all of these? Also when my tv is turned off, there is a "white circle" looking thing in the upper-center of my screen. Its more apparent right after I turn my set off, but even after a few hours you can see it. I always thought that it was where the projector hits my screen the brightest and it was normal, but now Im not so sure. Is anyone elses like this?

Toshiba posted a service bulletin for this problem. You have to install a jumper between to components on your electronic board found at the bottom of the set.

So, you're essentially telling me I have the white line issue, right? Even though the description of the white line in the bulletin is different than what I'm experiencing with my set? Specifically, the bulletin claims the white line is near the center of the image, while the line I'm seeing is about 2 inches from the left side of the screen. Maybe it's the same problem though. :confused:

Get yer money back ;) Or beg and plead to MichaelTLV and see if he knows where the mode specific registers are on your set.

Michael (TLV) Chen ISF'd my 65h84 late last year, as far as SVM was concerned he simply cut the wire the leads to the SVM circuit board.

The other option is to calibrate/adjust your set in Movie mode, which then changes to Preference mode.


Been away for awhile.........late :cool:

but frankly, I'm getting tired of the issues with CRT RPTV. Calibration, ISFing, secret menus, lenticular screens, screen protectors, removing them, striping the lenses, installing duvatyne. It's not that I don't love a good challenge, it's just that after a while, other things take precedence, you know.

I just want to buy a display that every flippin' time I turn it on I don't want to run for the remote to adjust it in some sort of way. I have a beautiful picture, don't get me wrong, but it takes work and effort.

If one can afford a ISF job you can get it done the correct way :cool: and save all the hassle of consistent tweaking back and forth :mad: .

The Duvatyne lining is unecessary on most models (H84) because its already painted black on the inside of the set. A homemade lens hood would be better to block light reflecting from the screen back into the lenses, this reduces the "halo" effect on bright images (i.e. stadium lights) in a picture.

It's fun and all doing the tweaks but you can save yourself alot of time and perhaps misery if you shell out a few bucks for the ISF pros. :).........late.

Does anyone know what resolutions the 57H84 supports? Like 480p, 480i, 720p, 1080i, or all of these? Also when my tv is turned off, there is a "white circle" looking thing in the upper-center of my screen. Its more apparent right after I turn my set off, but even after a few hours you can see it. I always thought that it was where the projector hits my screen the brightest and it was normal, but now Im not so sure. Is anyone elses like this?


It supports all of those , but gets upconverted to either 540p or 1080i.

Not sure about the "white circle", light reflecting from the protective screen? If it doesn't affect the picture when the set is on then it not a biggie.

How old was your set? And did you notice any improvement in Picture?

It sounds like this isn't a trivail thing to do, but I'd like to keep my Pic as good as possible.

Rick

Cleaning off the lenses increases the light output, but does not directly affect the picture quality, unless it's it just caked thick with dust :eek:

Every 6 months is adequate lens cleaning.

He set up a Sencore color analyzer and a computer and worked on it for about an hour and a half to two hours using input signals for 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. This was after he worked for a couple of hours adjusting the focus on the trim pots and the focus on the lens.


Hours on the manual and electronic focus? :eek: Would take anyone on this board 30min tops to do both. :rolleyes:

It supports all of those , but gets upconverted to either 540p or 1080i.

Not sure about the "white circle", light reflecting from the protective screen? If it doesn't affect the picture when the set is on then it not a biggie.

No its not a reflection, its in the screen. Its been their since the day it was delivered, over 2 years ago. It doesnt really affect the picture when its on so I guess I'll just try to ignore it.

Rickie,

After I cleaned the lenses, the overall PQ seemed to be the same to me. There were spots though - literally - that appeared on the screen before I cleaned the lenses and now they are gone. My set is about a year old. I recommend what the other poster said - use a flashlight on the lenses and you can easily see the dust. I recommend taking a look at your lenses if you've had the set for 6 months or more.

Hello,

I am looking for a little bit of help from someone. I went into my service menu and decided to fix overscan, and I did. Later on, I bought a Media Center PC and needed to correct a few things more, yes I know I should have kept it better, but I lost my sheet with the codes written down. I was wondering it someone, with a 57H83 or one that would have similar codes, PM me their codes for ALL of the ones that have letters in them. Such as RCUT, HIT, PARA, TVOP, etc etc. Yes, all TVs are unique, but I need a guideline to get me back on track. I have it very close, but in the middle of the screen you can notice a little bit of a "bulge" appearence. If someone could possibly PM me the "service manual defaults" maybe then I could find what I possibly changed that could have done that.

There was a post by VeniceDre that had some RCUT, GCUT, etc etc codes, and my colors look great. So if someone could point me in a good direction I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

http://www.keohi.com/keohiHDTV/brandspecific/toshiba/servicemenu/servicemenu.html

you can start there.

Rickie,

After I cleaned the lenses, the overall PQ seemed to be the same to me. There were spots though - literally - that appeared on the screen before I cleaned the lenses and now they are gone. My set is about a year old. I recommend what the other poster said - use a flashlight on the lenses and you can easily see the dust. I recommend taking a look at your lenses if you've had the set for 6 months or more.

Thanks, I've had my set for almost 2 years now. I've been trying to get up the courage to dive in and maybe do a lens cleaning, or at least check. I've pretty much convinced myself I should look. Although I dont actually see any spots or dots on screen, it just seems that it isn't quite as sharp as it was when I first started watching (HiDef OTA was absolutely stunning when I first got it). Now it's really good, but it doesnt make my jaw drop, maybe I'm just accustomed to it now.

Thanks,
Rick

Thanks, I've had my set for almost 2 years now. I've been trying to get up the courage to dive in and maybe do a lens cleaning, or at least check. I've pretty much convinced myself I should look. Although I dont actually see any spots or dots on screen, it just seems that it isn't quite as sharp as it was when I first started watching (HiDef OTA was absolutely stunning when I first got it). Now it's really good, but it doesnt make my jaw drop, maybe I'm just accustomed to it now.

Thanks,
Rick

You definitely need to clean the lenses, 2 yrs is a long time. Like I said in a earlier post every 6 months minimum. Lots of dust decreases the light output on the guns.

You could probably use a service menu convergence and a manual or electronic focus adjustmant as well.

I have a 65H84 (ISF calibrated), I recently cleaned the lenses and took snap shots of the disassembly. I also took a shot of the wire Michael TLV unhooked to disable SVM on all modes. Will post soon :D

No its not a reflection, its in the screen. Its been their since the day it was delivered, over 2 years ago. It doesnt really affect the picture when its on so I guess I'll just try to ignore it.

Do you have the protective screen still on? Try restacking the screen.

I also get a halo on my set ( re-stacked screen) in the upper center part, but it's only there when I have the room light on (reflection).

You definitely need to clean the lenses, 2 yrs is a long time. Like I said in a earlier post every 6 months minimum. Lots of dust decreases the light output on the guns.

Of course excessive "cleaning" of plastic lenses may actually do more harm than good. Every 6 months sounds a bit excessive to me ... :eek:

WEBSITE LINK(I was told I couldn't post the link until I had more posts?)

you can start there.


Been there, checked that sight. I am looking for someone to jump in the SM and write their codes, for all of the ones with letters in them(RCUT, WID, HIT, PARA, VSPC2, etc etc. to name a few of what I mean), down and pass them on to me as a frame of reference. If someone would be willing to do that, I would greatly appreciate it. Again, my TV is a 57H83.

Do you have the protective screen still on? Try restacking the screen.

I also get a halo on my set ( re-stacked screen) in the upper center part, but it's only there when I have the room light on (reflection).

Yes the protective screen is still on. The white spot is in the screen. It looks like its the spot where the projecter shines the brightest and maybe it "bleached" that spot. I would like to remove the protective screen, and clean the lenses but I havent been able to find a step by step manual for my tv. I found one to a similar tv but mines a little different and I dont want to screw it up.

You definitely need to clean the lenses, 2 yrs is a long time. Like I said in a earlier post every 6 months minimum. Lots of dust decreases the light output on the guns.

You could probably use a service menu convergence and a manual or electronic focus adjustmant as well.

I have a 65H84 (ISF calibrated), I recently cleaned the lenses and took snap shots of the disassembly. I also took a shot of the wire Michael TLV unhooked to disable SVM on all modes. Will post soon :D

That would be great. I've seen some pics on another site as well. The more I'm able to envision what I'm getting into, the calmer I'll be. Wife is going to be out of town in April, maybe I'llplan on doing this then. (She's not too sure I should be taking apart our rather expensive TV apart - Alsthough she did get used to me taking apart our computers quite a long time ago ).

I I've do regular 56pt user convergence, and a few weeks ago I checked the SM convergence grid, but I couldn't actually see any drift whatsover, so I left it alone. I've been wanting to make a convergence grid overlay, but I havent found the spacing for my specific model anywhere.

Thanks, I'll look forward to the pics.

Rick


Thanks,
Rick

Of course excessive "cleaning" of plastic lenses may actually do more harm than good. Every 6 months sounds a bit excessive to me ... :eek:

I think 6 months is adequete, could be more for others once a year I suppose, depends on how much dust you like to collect on the lenses :confused:

I use a clean micro fiber cloth and just wipe them. There's no rubbing or anything like that.

The lenses are plastic but you would have to do some serious rubbing to do any damage.

I've wiped my eye glasses (plastic lenses) everyday with a micro fiber cloth for the last 3 years.......and guess what? No scratches :rolleyes:

Question: Can the Toshiba 65H84 support HDMI 1.3?

Just wondering, because that's what the PS3 will have (and undoubtably a requirement for any Blue Ray player):
http://www.ps3portal.com/ps3/article/313.html

I know HDMI 1.3 isn't even out yet, but can my Toshiba be flashed or something like that? What is the current version on HDMI in the 65H84 (I got mine in July 2005)? I can't find it in the manual.

Michael (TLV) Chen ISF'd my 65h84 late last year, as far as SVM was concerned he simply cut the wire the leads to the SVM circuit board.

The other option is to calibrate/adjust your set in Movie mode, which then changes to Preference mode.


Been away for awhile.........late :cool:

Is this the ISF tech that you claim adjusted the settings on your set? The same settings that you PM'd me about and tried to sell me for $100?

Hmmm...the article states:
"New mini connector: With small portable devices such as HD camcorders and still cameras demanding seamless HDTV connectivity, HDMI will offer a new, smaller form-factor connector option. Since HDMI offers the highest quality digital audio and video on a single connection, such devices will be also benefit from a reduced connector count."

Sounds to me like a flash wouldn't do you any good since the connector would be different...

I've wiped my eye glasses (plastic lenses) everyday with a micro fiber cloth for the last 3 years.......and guess what? No scratches :rolleyes:

Suit yourself ... it's your money ...

Just remember that the "dust" on your eyeglasses hasn't been bonded to the lens surface by high electrostatic charges and heat .

Is this the ISF tech that you claim adjusted the settings on your set? The same settings that you PM'd me about and tried to sell me for $100?



:confused: Correction.......who PM'd who first? Who wanted service menu settings from a ISF calibrated set?

ANYONE else here!! Did I try to sell any of you ISF SM settings for a H84 set??

The bottom line here this fella wanted something for free......"hey can you give me your ISF SM settings from your set"? If they work on my set, **AND ONLY** if I see a difference, I will pay you $100.....yeah that's a good deal.....FOR YOU.....:rolleyes:

I pay $400 for ISF cal. w/warranty and this free loafer wants my settings. He didn't get anything and now he's all sour grapes.

Run along now.....maybe your "tech" can come over again and spend 7-8 hrs on that set you bought at the pawn shop.

Such a phoney.... I read your last post about your gripes with CRT's......this is the same guy who a few months ago didnt know anything beyond getting into SM from the remote......now he's an expert :rolleyes: ...dropping names like Sencore.....you got diarehha of the mouth and alot of personal issues.... get a life :p .

Suit yourself ... it's your money ...

Just remember that the "dust" on your eyeglasses hasn't been bonded to the lens surface by high electrostatic charges and heat .

I don't think wiping the lenses 2x in a year is excessive....our home is very clean, but those lenses can collect alot of dust within 6 months.

But your right my risk, if any.

Let's move on.........

:) :) :) EVERYONE (except 1 person), I have a service manual for H84 series. I paid $6 from a fella on the Keohi site last year, but since our CRT's are considered old :( , I'm giving it away FREE!!!!!!! :) :) :)

Just fire me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send it over.....cheers fellas!!! :D

Is this the ISF tech that you claim adjusted the settings on your set? The same settings that you PM'd me about and tried to sell me for $100?


Yes it's you......no service manual coming your way.....perhaps another member can SELL you their free copy :p

Question: Can the Toshiba 65H84 support HDMI 1.3?

Just wondering, because that's what the PS3 will have (and undoubtably a requirement for any Blue Ray player):
http://www.ps3portal.com/ps3/article/313.html

I know HDMI 1.3 isn't even out yet, but can my Toshiba be flashed or something like that? What is the current version on HDMI in the 65H84 (I got mine in July 2005)? I can't find it in the manual.

I wouldn't worry about that bud.....till at least winter.... MAYBE early 2007 :(

Yeah I'm choked too, from yesterday http://www.gamespot.com/news/6145919.html

Sony just teased us at the E3 show......no spring launch date...too many issues with Blu-ray copyright protection.

To add to the misery, analysts are saying the cost per unit is going to cost Sony $800 per unit. Too expensive to make/sell and they would have to take too much of hit to sell it at the same ballpark of Xbox 360 MSRP. So WHO KNOWS when it will really launch :confused:

Sony should have just went the MS route, where they ditched the HD DVD drive idea on the 360 to make it a possible optional ad-on later. Sony tried to do too much too fast and shot themselves in the foot!

I'm caving into Xbox 360 this weekend :D cause I can't wait that long for Sony to get their stuff in order and PC gaming is all but dead.

Anyone here got a 360 hooked up to a 65"? How's it look? I hate "jaggies" :mad:

I wouldn't worry about that bud.....till at least winter.... MAYBE early 2007 :(

Update.......Sony is saying PS3 will launch November 2006!! :D :D http://www.gamespot.com/news/6145972.html

Still too long.......getting 360 to fill the waiting period :p

Sounds like we don't have to worry about it anyway:

In an effort to encourage consumers to select the Blu-ray hardware and enjoy the high definition video titles at full resolution, Sony has reportedly decided not to down-convert the resolution of the HD signals coming out from analogue connections.

This would mean that owners of currently available TV sets that lack of the HDMI content protected digital interface would be able to enjoy Blu-ray video titles at full resolution.

Source: http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/News/Details.aspx?NewsId=16565

:confused: Correction.......who PM'd who first? Who wanted service menu settings from a ISF calibrated set?

ANYONE else here!! Did I try to sell any of you ISF SM settings for a H84 set??

The bottom line here this fella wanted something for free......"hey can you give me your ISF SM settings from your set"? If they work on my set, **AND ONLY** if I see a difference, I will pay you $100.....yeah that's a good deal.....FOR YOU.....:rolleyes:

I pay $400 for ISF cal. w/warranty and this free loafer wants my settings. He didn't get anything and now he's all sour grapes.

Run along now.....maybe your "tech" can come over again and spend 7-8 hrs on that set you bought at the pawn shop.

Such a phoney.... I read your last post about your gripes with CRT's......this is the same guy who a few months ago didnt know anything beyond getting into SM from the remote......now he's an expert :rolleyes: ...dropping names like Sencore.....you got diarehha of the mouth and alot of personal issues.... get a life :p .

Can you PM me your SM settings? I wont give you $100 but I'll say "Thank You" whether they look good on my tv or not. :p

Update.......Sony is saying PS3 will launch November 2006!! :D :D http://www.gamespot.com/news/6145972.html

Still too long.......getting 360 to fill the waiting period :p

:D :D No one in here cares :D :D

Anyone here got a 360 hooked up to a 65"? How's it look? I hate "jaggies" :mad:

One very satisfied 360 user with 65", some games look better than others, but overall it is HEAVEN!! As for jaggies, it really depends on the game, but I haven't noticed any (Call of Duty 2 looked so incredible!!, also have PG3, Full Auto, Kameo - none of which had jaggies that I noticed -, and just picked up Ghost Recon today). You will not be sorry getting a 360...

Well Toshiba offered to replace my set with a refurbished one, and give me a new 1yr warrantee. Now however, they only want to give me a refund, and be done with it. It is very irritating, that they offer it and now do not want to make good on it. Just wanted to share with the group. I guess I will be now looking for a replacement for my 65" rptv. This sucks.

Troy.

Well Toshiba offered to replace my set with a refurbished one, and give me a new 1yr warrantee. Now however, they only want to give me a refund, and be done with it. It is very irritating, that they offer it and now do not want to make good on it. Just wanted to share with the group. I guess I will be now looking for a replacement for my 65" rptv. This sucks.

Troy.

What exactly did the service techs do? I had a Toshiba service company come out and the tech actually knew what the problem was and fixed it. No more white line!

:confused: Correction.......who PM'd who first? Who wanted service menu settings from a ISF calibrated set?

ANYONE else here!! Did I try to sell any of you ISF SM settings for a H84 set??

The bottom line here this fella wanted something for free......"hey can you give me your ISF SM settings from your set"? If they work on my set, **AND ONLY** if I see a difference, I will pay you $100.....yeah that's a good deal.....FOR YOU.....:rolleyes:

I pay $400 for ISF cal. w/warranty and this free loafer wants my settings. He didn't get anything and now he's all sour grapes.

Run along now.....maybe your "tech" can come over again and spend 7-8 hrs on that set you bought at the pawn shop.

Such a phoney.... I read your last post about your gripes with CRT's......this is the same guy who a few months ago didnt know anything beyond getting into SM from the remote......now he's an expert :rolleyes: ...dropping names like Sencore.....you got diarehha of the mouth and alot of personal issues.... get a life :p .

Actually, the only one here showing that he's a poser is yourself. Frankly, you have a severe attitude and maturity problem and in your PM's to me, I was always courteous to you and suggested that as a fellow member of a forum (that strives to support each other with assistance and advice) that your attempt to profit from providing support was a bit mercenary. However, I honestly offered to pay you your requested fee should your settings render my set a beautiful image. Since you were unable to trust that this was the case, you ranted and raved a bit. Seeing as how, at the time, your posts totaled 4, it was highly unlikely anyone would trust sending you $100 sight unseen as you had not, and still haven't, established any sort of credibility with other forum members.

As to your comments about my not knowing anything until a few months ago, I beg to differ as I have been in the AV business since 1990 and currently own two CRT projectors, a DLP projector and also this RPTV, plus I have a new demo projector on the way to me coming from a friend at Panasonic. I've worked at Zenith during the development of the 8VSB terrestrial HD signal and at four different projector manufacturers (Zenith, Telex, PLUS, Dukane), a professional audio products manufacturer (EV-Telex), a plasma manufacturer (Dukane), a video conferencing manufacturer (Tandberg), a manufacturer of video ASICS, scan converters and scalers (Focus Enhancements) and currently I manage the AV for exhibitors at trade shows all across the country, including E3 where my company (AVHQ) is the official AV provider to the exhibitors. My sales team works on AV for companies such as Microsoft, Sony, Nintendo and many others. I'm an active member and participant of the ICIA , CEDIA, NSCA and IAEM. I've participated in teaching at an ISF seminar with Joe Kane and with Jim Burns (now of Runco). My friends and colleagues are the reps from the various manufacturers of the products that we all write about.

If you somehow gained an impression that I didn't know anything it is because I keep a low-key approach to this forum and unlike some, don't post just for the "thrill of posting". I help where I can and offer advice when I can. Even if you are like me, totally 100% comfortable sticking my hand and arm up into a CRT projector in the dark to adjust the astignators on the tubes, then that still doesn't mean that I automatically know every code in every SM for every set or how to enter the SM until someone educates me.

I believe that you know just enough from reading these forums and others where you feel overly confident in offering advice. Perhaps there is even some measure of quality to some of your statements and advice. However, you would do all of us a service if you were to avoid personal attacks on the forum in the future as it only serves to enlighten all of us as to the value you represent as a poster, which is, at this point, nil. Otherwise... have a great day! :)

I have had 2 different companies come out to diagnose and fix the problem. They have done the jumper wire repair quoted for the h-83 and below models, and also replaced the lenticular screen. Neither has worked. The engineers at Toshiba have stated it is not a probem with the model tv that I have, 65-h14, and that it must be just an issue with my tv. They say there is no repair options, and must either replace or refund for the tv. Since they do not make rear projection tv's any longer, they will not trade for anything else. I am working with them to see about the possibility of an exchange for another type of tv, but I do not have my hopes up, as they do not seem willing to give me any upgrades. The problem at this point is that I can not replace the tv without spending a considerably larger sum of money, as I have only been able to find lcd projection, or dlp. No more crt rear projection seem to be available. I just do not wish to spend another 1500.00 to stay at about the same size. I am willing to listen to any suggestions.

Troy in Jacksonville FL.

Actually, the only one here showing that he's a poser is yourself. Frankly, you have a severe attitude and maturity problem and in your PM's to me, I was always courteous to you and suggested that as a fellow member of a forum (that strives to support each other with assistance and advice) that your attempt to profit from providing support was a bit mercenary. However, I honestly offered to pay you your requested fee should your settings render my set a beautiful image. Since you were unable to trust that this was the case, you ranted and raved a bit. Seeing as how, at the time, your posts totaled 4, it was highly unlikely anyone would trust sending you $100 sight unseen as you had not, and still haven't, established any sort of credibility with other forum members.

As to your comments about my not knowing anything until a few months ago, I beg to differ as I have been in the AV business since 1990 and currently own two CRT projectors, a DLP projector and also this RPTV, plus I have a new demo projector on the way to me coming from a friend at Panasonic. I've worked at Zenith during the development of the 8VSB terrestrial HD signal and at four different projector manufacturers (Zenith, Telex, PLUS, Dukane), a professional audio products manufacturer (EV-Telex), a plasma manufacturer (Dukane), a video conferencing manufacturer (Tandberg), a manufacturer of video ASICS, scan converters and scalers (Focus Enhancements) and currently I manage the AV for exhibitors at trade shows all across the country, including E3 where my company (AVHQ) is the official AV provider to the exhibitors. My sales team works on AV for companies such as Microsoft, Sony, Nintendo and many others. I'm an active member and participant of the ICIA , CEDIA, NSCA and IAEM. I've participated in teaching at an ISF seminar with Joe Kane and with Jim Burns (now of Runco). My friends and colleagues are the reps from the various manufacturers of the products that we all write about.

If you somehow gained an impression that I didn't know anything it is because I keep a low-key approach to this forum and unlike some, don't post just for the "thrill of posting". I help where I can and offer advice when I can. Even if you are like me, totally 100% comfortable sticking my hand and arm up into a CRT projector in the dark to adjust the astignators on the tubes, then that still doesn't mean that I automatically know every code in every SM for every set or how to enter the SM until someone educates me.

I believe that you know just enough from reading these forums and others where you feel overly confident in offering advice. Perhaps there is even some measure of quality to some of your statements and advice. However, you would do all of us a service if you were to avoid personal attacks on the forum in the future as it only serves to enlighten all of us as to the value you represent as a poster, which is, at this point, nil. Otherwise... have a great day! :)

Is this the same person who just previously questioned my credibility, not to mention post to everyone a private PM between two members? :confused:

Personal attacks? and what your previous reply to my post? I suppose that was a compliment in your books. Your right you did nothing wrong and did nothing to deserve the backlash :rolleyes:

Are you taking your medication?

Wow, talk about night and day!

Can you PM me your SM settings? I wont give you $100 but I'll say "Thank You" whether they look good on my tv or not. :p

LOL :p

Sounds like we don't have to worry about it anyway:

In an effort to encourage consumers to select the Blu-ray hardware and enjoy the high definition video titles at full resolution, Sony has reportedly decided not to down-convert the resolution of the HD signals coming out from analogue connections.

This would mean that owners of currently available TV sets that lack of the HDMI content protected digital interface would be able to enjoy Blu-ray video titles at full resolution.

Source: http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/News/Details.aspx?NewsId=16565

Smartest thing coming from Sony as of late.... :p

One very satisfied 360 user with 65", some games look better than others, but overall it is HEAVEN!! As for jaggies, it really depends on the game, but I haven't noticed any (Call of Duty 2 looked so incredible!!, also have PG3, Full Auto, Kameo - none of which had jaggies that I noticed -, and just picked up Ghost Recon today). You will not be sorry getting a 360...

Awesome......I was a little worried how'd it look on a larger screen. It's a gimme some of the games will look sub-par, but that's just poor software design. Even when PS3 launches I'm sure half the games will play and look mediocre.

I'm going through MAJOR gaming withdrawl :eek: ever since I sold my BFG 6800 GT from my PC in Dec.

That's great news........I can't wait to get one this weekend! :D

:D :D No one in here cares :D :D

That's odd, since 2 members have already replied to the post. :cool:


Those are voices you are hearing inside your dome......go to the medicine cabinet, take your perscription, and those little voices will all go away :p

Those are voices you are hearing inside your dome......go to the medicine cabinet, take your perscription, and those little voices will all go away :p

:) You continue to dig the hole in which to bury your own credibility while reaffirming my bullet points.

Regarding your 360 purchase, there is a forum for that discussion, so why not take your discussion about 360 and/or PS3 to the proper forum area where your input in this area can be discussed by many others who, like yourself, have a heightened interest in that topic.

BTW, I have personally contacted Michael TLV who agreed with me that nobody should be offering to sell their calibrated settings as this information would have little to no value to the purchaser since the settings on every set vary widely. He also said he doesn't know who you are and that most likely you're just trolling the forum looking for a sucker by name dropping his forum name.

Posting the settings, however, for informational purposes or for comparison purposes is acceptable, as long as the users understand that the settings are calibration settings for one particular set and may have undesired results on another. My set now looks incredible after being calibrated and I have an Excel spreadsheet showing before and after settings. If sharing my settings for comparison is requested by anyone, including you, I would have no problem sharing this information with my fellow forum members... without any fee. A Thank You and knowing I assisted someone are enough for me. Just PM me with a request.

I need some hlep please in order to fault isolate my problem. On my 51H83's upper left quadrant, the green convergence is rippled from the middle of the upper left quadrant to the left edge. Only the upper left quad is affected. The green ripples upward and then comes back down as white text goes to the top, as in the credits. My TV has at least 10,000 hours on it. It did not occur during an alignment and happened suddenly five days ago.

The problem happened suddenly, I noticed it, and then I reset the TV via remote. The green rippled left corner problem went away but then came back later that night. The problem is now constant. I also unplugged it from the wall for over 9 hours while I was at work, to make sure all caps were discharged and circuits were removed of any static voltages applied and the green curve is still there.

I did find the service mode menu and tried the 56 pt. convergence. The green adjustment grids are rectangular in the upper left hand corner. I can switch to red or blue grids and they are perfectly square in that area where the green is rectangular. I did not change any settings, since I cannot change the geometry of the adjustment grid box. This appears to be a hardware issue and not an alignment problem. Since it occurred suddenly, it indicated a circuit failure and not a drift problem.

Update: I was able to align the upper left quadrant's green horizontal grids by pulling one main line down a good bit and the others followed suit. And the green adjustment grid straightened out to become square again. I expect this problem may revert back to it's original alignment at some time or go out all together, but did not have any hex values for the points to record before I adjusted them. All I had was X (row#), Y (column#), C(color), and S(screen). I'm going to do a full 56 pt. tomorrow night. I suspect that the designer menu would have provided the hex values for each point, but I didn't know enough to go that far. I had read that the designer menu is not available past the H80 model. Anything by eye is better than what I had! I've learned a lot reading most of these 54 pages and just saved myself some big time $$$.

I was told that the 56 tp grid alignment is held in memory as a hex value, one pair each for for x and y. Could it be possible that the hex values somehow became corrupt in that one part of the 56pt grid memory settings?

Thanks for this forum!

Well I've had my 65H84 for 15 flawless months now and yesterday that all came to an end. Basically what happened is the picture now seems washed out. Like the contrast and brightness are set to maximum. Since day one when I got the TV, I ran the DVE disc and set the contrast at 50 snd the brightness to about 37 or so so the TV has never been driven hard at all. I've tried cycling the power, unplugging it too, but no change. I've adjusted the contrast and brightness way down to basically "0", the picture does dim when I make the adjustments to the contrast and brightness but the picture still looks washed out.

When I ran the "Touch Focus", the colour in the crosses seem to be blooming very hard especially the blue. It's almost like it's very out of focus as well.

I had a bit of a problem a few weeks ago while watching a show and this same problem seemed to have happened but it went away after cycling the power with the remote, and again it happened only a few days ago and cycling the remote fixed it again, but this time it won't go away.

When it happened it was instant. It appears on all inputs as well. Changing the preferences to movie or sports for example changes the picture as usual but the problem is still there.

Anybody with any suggestions as to what it could be or how to rectify it would be appreciated. Help me out here people please!

Swederic, what is your source? If it appears the same on all inputs, have you tried inputting a different source, like, say, a DVD player from another room? It's awfully strange for that to occur all at once.

I have had 2 different companies come out to diagnose and fix the problem. They have done the jumper wire repair quoted for the h-83 and below models, and also replaced the lenticular screen. Neither has worked. The engineers at Toshiba have stated it is not a probem with the model tv that I have, 65-h14, and that it must be just an issue with my tv. They say there is no repair options, and must either replace or refund for the tv. Since they do not make rear projection tv's any longer, they will not trade for anything else. I am working with them to see about the possibility of an exchange for another type of tv, but I do not have my hopes up, as they do not seem willing to give me any upgrades. The problem at this point is that I can not replace the tv without spending a considerably larger sum of money, as I have only been able to find lcd projection, or dlp. No more crt rear projection seem to be available. I just do not wish to spend another 1500.00 to stay at about the same size. I am willing to listen to any suggestions.

Troy in Jacksonville FL.

Mitsubishi and Hitachi 65" CRT RPTV's are still available at very attractive prices. You would not have to spend more. These sets are $2000, or less.

Digital_Dilema, thanks for your reply.

I've tried different sources ie: satellite, DVD, etc. Same result. It almost seems to me to be a problem with the Blue crt because when I bring up the TV menu the text and borders are all fringed by about an inch of blue. It's almost like the blue crt has physically moved back away from the screen if that makes any sense? Is there a chance that the focal point of the blue crt has changed? I notice too when I run the "Touch Focus" that initially when the colour bars start their sweep (across and vertically) that the green and red sweeps are about 3/8 of an inch wide and when the blue sweep starts, its about an 1 1/8 inches wide. Does that help to explain anything?

Thanks again for your help.

Well this is getting wierd! Just out of pure frustraion I cycled the power again and when I pushed the power button to turn it on I heard a slight popping noise from the TV and then an almost normal image appeared except that it was almost in the 4x3 aspect ratio with very narrow Red Green and Blue lines running vertically on the sides of the picture, so I cycled the power one more time and now it appears normal. I redid the convergence and it's looking fine now! What the heck is happening here???

Well this is getting wierd! Just out of pure frustraion I cycled the power again and when I pushed the power button to turn it on I heard a slight popping noise from the TV and then an almost normal image appeared except that it was almost in the 4x3 aspect ratio with very narrow Red Green and Blue lines running vertically on the sides of the picture, so I cycled the power one more time and now it appears normal. I redid the convergence and it's looking fine now! What the heck is happening here???

I have the same TV and had the same problem about a month ago. It got progressively worse until the picture just constantly was "re-sizing" itself. I had to call for service.

Also I had a "pop" and a red and green vertical line several months earlier and had to have it serviced. Both problems were with the IC board.

Now the good news, during the last service they found that their was a "manufacturer upgrade" that should prevent it from happening again.

Thanks for the update "Merlin803" Hopefully it's as simple as that. We'll see.

Hi H83/84 owners! Been a long time since I've chimed into these forums. Been too busy enjoying my 46H84 since I bought it in Oct of 04. It's been great and only had a few hiccups. It did the power pop/snap while the set was on two times in the first year I owned it.. Scared the crap out of me but didn't seem to harm the set and I just chalked it up as (CRT Arching) after reading on the net.

Anyways, I don't notice any degradation in the color quality but I've never cleaned the lenses and am wondering how dangerous it is? I know TV sets can be deadly and want to take all necessary precautions before attempting to clean the lenses. Once I get the back panel off are they pretty easy to get to? And do you just use a microfiber cloth to wipe em off? Thanks

Hello,

I am looking for a little bit of help from someone. I went into my service menu and decided to fix overscan, and I did. Later on, I bought a Media Center PC and needed to correct a few things more, yes I know I should have kept it better, but I lost my sheet with the codes written down. I was wondering it someone, with a 57H83 or one that would have similar codes, PM me their codes for ALL of the ones that have letters in them. Such as RCUT, HIT, PARA, TVOP, etc etc. Yes, all TVs are unique, but I need a guideline to get me back on track. I have it very close, but in the middle of the screen you can notice a little bit of a "bulge" appearence. If someone could possibly PM me the "service manual defaults" maybe then I could find what I possibly changed that could have done that.

There was a post by VeniceDre that had some RCUT, GCUT, etc etc codes, and my colors look great. So if someone could point me in a good direction I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

Anyone. I am still lost.

Well I've had my 65H84 for 15 flawless months now and yesterday that all came to an end. Basically what happened is the picture now seems washed out. Like the contrast and brightness are set to maximum. Since day one when I got the TV, I ran the DVE disc and set the contrast at 50 snd the brightness to about 37 or so so the TV has never been driven hard at all. I've tried cycling the power, unplugging it too, but no change. I've adjusted the contrast and brightness way down to basically "0", the picture does dim when I make the adjustments to the contrast and brightness but the picture still looks washed out.

When I ran the "Touch Focus", the colour in the crosses seem to be blooming very hard especially the blue. It's almost like it's very out of focus as well.

I had a bit of a problem a few weeks ago while watching a show and this same problem seemed to have happened but it went away after cycling the power with the remote, and again it happened only a few days ago and cycling the remote fixed it again, but this time it won't go away.

When it happened it was instant. It appears on all inputs as well. Changing the preferences to movie or sports for example changes the picture as usual but the problem is still there.

Anybody with any suggestions as to what it could be or how to rectify it would be appreciated. Help me out here people please!

Sounds like your focus is out. You can look up earlier posts on how to do the electronic /manual focus. Or you can send me your e-mail and I can provide photos and details on how to do it, since I just did a lens cleaning a couple weeks ago and took photos of the diassembly.
No major work to do it, takes 10 min to get at the controls then you just need to get into service mode and focus each gun.

Hi H83/84 owners! Been a long time since I've chimed into these forums. Been too busy enjoying my 46H84 since I bought it in Oct of 04. It's been great and only had a few hiccups. It did the power pop/snap while the set was on two times in the first year I owned it.. Scared the crap out of me but didn't seem to harm the set and I just chalked it up as (CRT Arching) after reading on the net.

Anyways, I don't notice any degradation in the color quality but I've never cleaned the lenses and am wondering how dangerous it is? I know TV sets can be deadly and want to take all necessary precautions before attempting to clean the lenses. Once I get the back panel off are they pretty easy to get to? And do you just use a microfiber cloth to wipe em off? Thanks

1st don't be afraid you will do something wrong.........cause you won't ;) .

Don't need to take off the back panel.

Pull away the front speaker grille, 5 snaps, one on top 2 on each side.

There's a wood panel in the center behind the grille, 6 screws there....remove.

5-6 screws to remove the long thin panel with the "Theatrewide" logo.

3 screws to remove the front control panel.......keep wires hooked up.

On the outer edges of the screen (rear bottom), theres 1 bolt on each side, remove those.

Lift the screen up (easier on a "46 than "65 ;)) but not all the way out. Theres a wire along the bottom that leads to behind the screen this needs to be unplugged. Now you can lift out the screen :)

Behold the mighty guns :D !! Use a microfiber cloth or something similar and wipe away the dust (no rubbing, plastic lenses!). Don't bother trying to get them 100% dust free, it's impossible, just get them clean. Since your there check the mirror (should be fairly clean anyway) and the surrounding area for any further cleaning.
While your at it, get some electrical tape and give the red and green lenses a good 'ol ISF lens stripping for overall better color balance across the screen. :)

Anyone. I am still lost.

Discovision has offered everyone (but me :p ) a free copy of a service manual. Try PM'ing him to see if he'd be willing to assist you. Otherwise, if all you need to do is fine tune the geometry in the middle you could use the convergence settings in service mode and a screen overlay. If you don't have an overlay you can use masking tape on all sides, accurately space your markings on each side and then tape down light string or mono to present you with a master grid.

Scroll back through this forum thread and there are multiples of helpful information and sites to assist you.

1st don't be afraid you will do something wrong.........cause you won't ;) .

Don't need to take off the back panel.

Pull away the front speaker grille, 5 snaps, one on top 2 on each side.

There's a wood panel in the center behind the grille, 6 screws there....remove.

5-6 screws to remove the long thin panel with the "Theatrewide" logo.

3 screws to remove the front control panel.......keep wires hooked up.

On the outer edges of the screen (rear bottom), theres 1 bolt on each side, remove those.

Lift the screen up (easier on a "46 than "65 ;)) but not all the way out. Theres a wire along the bottom that leads to behind the screen this needs to be unplugged. Now you can lift out the screen :)

Behold the mighty guns :D !! Use a microfiber cloth or something similar and wipe away the dust (no rubbing, plastic lenses!). Don't bother trying to get them 100% dust free, it's impossible, just get them clean. Since your there check the mirror (should be fairly clean anyway) and the surrounding area for any further cleaning.
While your at it, get some electrical tape and give the red and green lenses a good 'ol ISF lens stripping for overall better color balance across the screen. :)

Thanks. Ive been wanting to clean my lenses for quite some time but never had the balls to get inside my set. After reading your post I just said screw it and went at it. Everything was easy except plugging and un-plugging the cable from the screen. It wouldnt be bad if you had another person to hold the screen while you plug it in, but when you're trying to do it alone its a major pain in the ass because the cable is so short.

While I was cleaning my lenses, I noticed there was a spot on the blue one. It looks like a defect in the plastic when it was being moulded. So when I was finished I turned on my dvd player to the "all blue screen" and sure enough you can see a spot in my picture. I barely noticed it before, but now that the lens is clean you can see it plain as day but only when the screen is all blue. Its about the size of a pea. My tv is still under the best-buy protection plan and im hoping that maybe they'll replace that lens.

One more thing - could you explain what you mean by "While your at it, get some electrical tape and give the red and green lenses a good 'ol ISF lens stripping for overall better color balance across the screen." Are you saying to stick electrical tape onto my red and green lenses and then pull it off?! :eek:

Thanks. Ive been wanting to clean my lenses for quite some time but never had the balls to get inside my set. After reading your post I just said screw it and went at it. Everything was easy except plugging and un-plugging the cable from the screen. It wouldnt be bad if you had another person to hold the screen while you plug it in, but when you're trying to do it alone its a major pain in the ass because the cable is so short.

While I was cleaning my lenses, I noticed there was a spot on the blue one. It looks like a defect in the plastic when it was being moulded. So when I was finished I turned on my dvd player to the "all blue screen" and sure enough you can see a spot in my picture. I barely noticed it before, but now that the lens is clean you can see it plain as day but only when the screen is all blue. Its about the size of a pea. My tv is still under the best-buy protection plan and im hoping that maybe they'll replace that lens.

One more thing - could you explain what you mean by "While your at it, get some electrical tape and give the red and green lenses a good 'ol ISF lens stripping for overall better color balance across the screen." Are you saying to stick electrical tape onto my red and green lenses and then pull it off?! :eek:

Hey no problem......I posted pics in my gallery for the lens striping and provided close-up shots, so you can get precise placement. The tape does not need to touch the lens, but even if it does, it's not a big deal. My ISF tech said a few manufacturer's placed striping right on the lens itself, although I don't like that idea.

For everyone else I posted pix in my gallery for diassembly, I tried to compress things abit to save time , but it's pretty thorough. If you have any questions on any of the pictures/procedures just lmk and I can explain in greater detail if needed. :)

On your striping pictures, it looks like the tape isnt blocking the lens at all, but maybe I just didnt look close enough. Is there a website or something that explains in greater detail where to do some of these things you've done (like striping, the hood, adjusting the manual focus, etc.)? I also PMed my email to you if you wouldnt mind hooking me up with one of those service manuals. :D

On your striping pictures, it looks like the tape isnt blocking the lens at all, but maybe I just didnt look close enough. Is there a website or something that explains in greater detail where to do some of these things you've done (like striping, the hood, adjusting the manual focus, etc.)? I also PMed my email to you if you wouldnt mind hooking me up with one of those service manuals. :D

Here's a link for how to build a lens hood.

http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/Theater/ToshibaTips.htm

When you have your screen back on, see that gap underneath the bottom frame? You can reach your hands in there and loosen each wingnut on the guns, sliding that left or right adjusts the focus. Get in service mode, press 7 on the remote and put up the grid. Turn off/on each gun by pressing 100, 0, ENT on the remote and focus each gun. It's focused when you see lines inbetween the bars, blue is slightly harder to focus but that is normal.

The lens striping was done professionally by my ISF tech. Think of the light coming out of each gun in a inverted cone shape, so infact the tape is cutting/striping some of the light output on those guns.

Thanks I got the emails. Much appreciated. :)

Am I the only one who finds the HDMI input on the H84 useless? I have my HD receiver running to it and I swear it looked better on component.

Am I the only one who finds the HDMI input on the H84 useless? I have my HD receiver running to it and I swear it looked better on component.

With the loads of cable running parallel behind my TV (I have four video game systems hooked up in addition to the DVR, DVD, component switch, and audio receiver) I got some faint scrolling lines on component from my DVR. The connection through HDMI eliminates that, and seems to have slightly better contrast as well. I guess it just depends what you have connected.

Am I the only one who finds the HDMI input on the H84 useless? I have my HD receiver running to it and I swear it looked better on component.

I, too, thought the same thing UNTIL I did three things: 1. I purchased a nice power conditioner for my equipment. 2. I separated the electrical cables from the video cables so that none are close to each other. 3. I purchased a very high quality HDMI cable. Now, the HDMI image is way better than component, and component rocks, too.

Am I the only one who finds the HDMI input on the H84 useless? I have my HD receiver running to it and I swear it looked better on component.


Mine has worked fine with my Direct TV HD Tivo.

Oh it works fine, it just looks better via component on my set.

Oh it works fine, it just looks better via component on my set.

I didn't state that very well, it works better than component to me. I originally used component (calibrated using both Avia DVD and the Direct TV HD pattern at one time or another) and I just found HDMI to look better (to my eyes anyways).

Where can I find the Directv HD pattern? Ive been looking for a way to calibrate my input for my directv hd receiver. If I calibrate that input with a dvd, it still doesnt look right when I switch it to the receiver. I wish directv had a certain channel you could turn to to calibrate your tv other than hdnet on tuesday mornings. I dont have dvr and Im always at work at that time.

Where can I find the Directv HD pattern? Ive been looking for a way to calibrate my input for my directv hd receiver. If I calibrate that input with a dvd, it still doesnt look right when I switch it to the receiver. I wish directv had a certain channel you could turn to to calibrate your tv other than hdnet on tuesday mornings. I dont have dvr and Im always at work at that time.

You could purchase an upconverting DVD player and use the 1080i output through HDMI for calibration. That would probably resolve your issues.

Where can I find the Directv HD pattern? Ive been looking for a way to calibrate my input for my directv hd receiver. If I calibrate that input with a dvd, it still doesnt look right when I switch it to the receiver. I wish directv had a certain channel you could turn to to calibrate your tv other than hdnet on tuesday mornings. I dont have dvr and Im always at work at that time.

They are on HDnet every Tuesday morning, I believe at 6am.

You could purchase an upconverting DVD player and use the 1080i output through HDMI for calibration. That would probably resolve your issues.

Thats funny you say that because I just ordered an Oppo DV971H yesterday. I plan on running it through HDMI and switching my directv H20 back to component. But if I calibrate my component input with my old dvd player and get the settings right will it still look good on my H20? I thought the settings were different for every piece of hardware you connect to a certain input.

HPOS variable in 51hx83.


Can anyone here find this variable? It seems disappeared in this model

Thats funny you say that because I just ordered an Oppo DV971H yesterday. I plan on running it through HDMI and switching my directv H20 back to component. But if I calibrate my component input with my old dvd player and get the settings right will it still look good on my H20? I thought the settings were different for every piece of hardware you connect to a certain input.

After the unit I own was calibrated for HDMI the component looked super, but not the other way around, meaning when I tried calibration on component first, the HDMI didn't look that great. Also, unless I'm mistaken, the calibration is actually for the input signal (1080i, 720p, 540p, 480p, 480i) and is global. So, if you input 1080i through HDMI on the Oppo, and then 1080i through the component on the DirectTV, your calibration settings should be the same. I have not tweaked my settings in quite a while because all inputs of DVD, HD and Gamecube look outstanding.

I finally built up the courage to restack my screens. I just moved the protective screen to the back instead of completely removing it and adding weatherstrip. The whole process took me about 45 minutes and was very easy. If anyone is considering it but worried about it being difficult, go for it. I read this http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/Theater/Mirror.htm before I got started, but once you get your screen off its pretty self-explanatory. If anyone does it and needs any tips PM me.

I finally built up the courage to restack my screens. I just moved the protective screen to the back instead of completely removing it and adding weatherstrip. The whole process took me about 45 minutes and was very easy. If anyone is considering it but worried about it being difficult, go for it. I read this http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/Theater/Mirror.htm before I got started, but once you get your screen off its pretty self-explanatory. If anyone does it and needs any tips PM me.

I posted back in June my experience with this and detailed how to do it, although I didn't restack. There's no sag in the 46" screen, so it worked fine. If interested, here's where the post is on how to do it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5795090&&#post5795090

I finally found a service manual for my TV. I put in the defaults it gave me for the set, however it did not give them all to me. My picture ALMOST looks normal. The ONLY issue that I currently see is that the left side of the screen looks like someone warped it a little. Anyone have an idea how to fix this? Or what code/codes specfically I should be looking at.

I finally found a service manual for my TV. I put in the defaults it gave me for the set, however it did not give them all to me. My picture ALMOST looks normal. The ONLY issue that I currently see is that the left side of the screen looks like someone warped it a little. Anyone have an idea how to fix this? Or what code/codes specfically I should be looking at.



If you havent checked here yet, give it a shot. Lots's of knowledgeable folks.

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/ubbthreads.php/Cat/0/C/5

Rick

I went into my 56 point convergence menu today and found that the extreme top of the grid is all wavy. Here's a picture-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/revolverjgw/wtf.jpg

It's the same for the blue and the red as well. This wasn't like this the last time I went into here, which I guess was a week ago or so. I don't notice anything during normal viewing, but this can't possibly be a good thing, right? Anybody know what's up?

I went into my 56 point convergence menu today and found that the extreme top of the grid is all wavy. Here's a picture-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/revolverjgw/wtf.jpg

It's the same for the blue and the red as well. This wasn't like this the last time I went into here, which I guess was a week ago or so. I don't notice anything during normal viewing, but this can't possibly be a good thing, right? Anybody know what's up?

when we did the lens stripping the edges of the convergence grid went sharper. I would suggest check the outer layer of the lens and the screen as well. Clean all of it. You may also want to check for molds build up inside the lenses. If this is the case, you are out of luck. You need to replace them since the lenses are air tight.

Has anyone ever come up with an inexpensive way to "repair" the anti-reflective screen coating on the 46HX83 ????

My 46HX83 has been perfect, but a while ago my grandson got a spot of something sticky on the screen. I grabbed a soft cloth and some windex to clean it off, and to my horror, I ended up with a shinny spot on the screen. :eek:

I read a posting that mentioned one could buy an entire new screen stack for hundreds of dollars, but I was hoping something a bit less.

when we did the lens stripping the edges of the convergence grid went sharper. I would suggest check the outer layer of the lens and the screen as well. Clean all of it. You may also want to check for molds build up inside the lenses. If this is the case, you are out of luck. You need to replace them since the lenses are air tight.

Thanks for the reply. Actually, my problem seems to have fixed itself. I turned it on the other day and it looked fine again, no problems since. I guess... I'm happy.

I'll have to do that lens striping. The right side of my screen is ever so slightly softer than the rest of it, always annoyed me because I'm anal about it.

... The right side of my screen is ever so slightly softer than the rest of it, ...
That's more likely a focus issue, probably the red CRT. Readily addressable.


Tim

OvalNut,

When you say "readily addressable", do you mean at the user level? My 46H84 also has a "soft" right side with wider-than-normal red lines in the convergence grid, causing a right-side pinkish tint in B&W films. I've read through this whole thread and have seen lens-striping discussed, but no instructions on how to do it. Could you provide some info on correcting this problem?

Thanks,
Ted

Suffice it to say it's not a "sit on the couch with the remote" type of tweak, but it is easy to do.

If you pop off the from grill you can get to the focus pots for each CRT. This will allow you to do the Electrostatic focus.

The next step is the Manual focus. This will require you to remove/move the screen up so that you can access each of the lens barrels on the CRT's.

Earlier in this thread, there is a long discussion on the how to's of doing both electrostatic (E) and manual (M) focus for Toshiba RPTV's. Go back to post # 993 of this thread, and read forward from there for a few pages. It's all in there. Then post back here with any leftover questions.

You'll probably need to read it through a few times ...


Tim

New to the forum-nice to see a thread dedicated to the Tosh sets.

I've done some searching through the thread but haven't had any luck finding the answers I need.

I have a 57H83 that I have regularly ISF'd every 9-12 months by Avical.

My SD DVD and HD cable look outstanding over component.

I just bought a Toshiba SD-4990 upscaling player, and quite frankly, it looks horrible over HDMI-DVI. I do have the player set on 1080i, and my setting on the TV under the DVI input is set to match 1080i.

Now, I had gotten the impression that the set gets calibrated by signal type, not necessarily input.

So, with my SD DVD player on Component 1 at 480p, if I moved it to Component 2 it should look the same. Is this a correct assumption?

If so, I had assumed that since I calibrated for 1080i over component on Component 2, if I fed the TV 1080i signal from the upscaler over DVI, it would recognize the service menu settings for 1080i and apply them. This is obviously not happening.

I'm guessing that it may have to do with the fact that the DVI input has to be converted to analog first, unlike component. I hope I'm not making any stupid statements here.

So I've resigned myself to the fact that I need to have my DVI input ISF'd. I do have Avia, but after seeing how much work Eliab from Avical put into grayscale and other tweaks on my component inputs, I'm hesitant to abandon watching awesome looking SD for so-so looking upscaled SD.

My biggest fear is that if I start in Movie mode to disable SVM and save the adjustments I make with Avia, it will somehow affect my settings for the component inputs. Eliab set all my menu settings for Component 1 and 2 to 50 and made his adjustments in the service menu, so I would hope I would see if any changes were made.

Any feedback on those with similar experiences is greatly appreciated!

So I've resigned myself to the fact that I need to have my DVI input ISF'd. I do have Avia, but after seeing how much work Eliab from Avical put into grayscale and other tweaks on my component inputs, I'm hesitant to abandon watching awesome looking SD for so-so looking upscaled SD.

I could be wrong ... but I don't think you need to be worried about grayscale tracking ... 1080i should track the same regardless of the input. So, that leaves the other user menu controls, which you should be able to do yourself with AVIA.

The real question is whether the DVI input has a seperate memory from the HD1 and HD2 component inputs. OTOH, even if the DVI input shares memory with HD1 or HD2, this shouldn't be a major problem since Eliab was kind enough to center all your controls at 50 ... easy to get back to where you started. :)

You have nothing to fear ...

Thanks for the reply!

My biggest concern is messing up HD1 for DVD. I was afraid that making menu adjustments in other inputs might change the value of "50" under the HD inputs.

When I looked at the settings for DVI Contrast was at 100 and others were 50, which I think is factory default. So hopefully that means they are saved separately from the other inputs. Plus even though it was on Preference when I went into DVI, I have a feeling SVM was enabled from the way it looked.

Sorry if this question has been answered-can't seem to find it in the thread.

Is 56-point convergence through Service mode applied to all inputs, or woudl I need to select DVI, then go into Service mode and do convergence just for DVI?

I am noticing a problem with my 42H83 that I hope someone can help with.

Through all inputs, both component inputs and the DVI, I am seeing what appears to be lines and groups of black pixels that move as the image does. Sometimes parts of a persons face, like their chin, sill be accented by this and the black segment will move and change as their face moves on the screen.

I am watching Alias in HD right now and I am not seeing it. It is very noticable while playing Oblivion on my xbox 360.

I read a couple of posts talking about cleaning the lens or mirrors. Should I try that? Has any once else experienced this before and if so where you able to fix it? I want to by a 50" tv, but I am waiting for the next gen LCOS sets so I would like this one to last a little while longer.

Thanks.

Guys, I need some help.

I have the Toshiba 51HC85.
I got it just he other day from a local store.
The guy came a delivered it, helped set it up, etc.
During the set up he told me that the TV is set to look good in this store and i have to make adjustments for home. He did some stuff with the remote and changed some values. I now know (by reading this forum) that he was tinkering with the service menu.

At first I was pleased, but after a while i noticed that things were kind of dark. I tried adjusting the brightness and it seemed to be helping and then BAM! When I got to 50, it all went dark again! I think he screwed somethign up, maybe relating to the brightness.

I tried calling the store and the guy no longer works there. Apparently, he got fired ths morning. Now what do I do?
I've found some of the service menu valueso n then et, but i'm afraid to go in there blind. I can't just write down my default values, and tweak from there cuz what's on my tv is not the real default anymore.

Can someone please please help me out? I'll even pay for help with paypal or something. I just need to know some of the ideal or optimal values for this service menu thing. Or if there is a way to reset it.

Someone please help!

If you just bought the set from a local store, then return it for an exchange or refund.

No reason to start off hobbled like this.

Let us know how it turns out.


Tim

Grolley.......


My set had some picture distortions when I bought it. Not a bulge, but more of a squeezed area in the center. I checked the grid during convergence and could see that the spacing was not consistent. The vertical lines at the center were much closer together than the others. I carefully moved the green grid lines to correct the problem, and then adjusted the red and blue to match the green. I counted the number of clicks that I moved each line in order to keep them straight. This completely fixed the problem.

I need some help from all of you in order to make a decision. When I bought my 46H84 from Sears in 11/04, I took the 2-year service contract (normally I don't, but with my first plunge into this area, I wanted to feel a little safer). The contract includes cleanings, etc.

The question I have is should I have them clean my set prior to my contract expiration, or leave well enough alone? I've had no problems (knock on wood), but the set is in a fairly dusty finished basement family room, and I could see the potential for dust build-up over the last 15 months. On the other hand, if Sears sends their own crew over, I could see the potential for disaster in other areas.

My gut feeling is to leave it as is, but I value your opinions and would like some input based on your feelings/experiences. What do you think?

Thanks in advance,
Ted

I bought a 46h84 from bb in 10/04. I've had no problems with it until last month. Now when i do the 56 pt convergence, the next day or after the tv has been turned on the red and blue separate around the edge of the screen. Has anyone else had this problem.

Ron,

Do you mean while you're playing a DVD, or while doing another convergence? I have slight red-blue line irregularities on the extreme edges of the screen (particularly in the corners) when doing a service menu convergence, but have not seen anything unusual while displaying a picture.

Ron,

Do you mean while you're playing a DVD, or while doing another convergence? I have slight red-blue line irregularities on the extreme edges of the screen (particularly in the corners) when doing a service menu convergence, but have not seen anything unusual while displaying a picture.

When i finish the convergence everything looks fine, but after watching tv for a few hours or turning it off then on the convergence starts to drift. It's really noticeable on espn with the updates at the bottom of the screen, all the words have red and blue edges.

I would appreciate someone's help with info on hdmi. I got one today for my tosh46h84 and would like to know if it overrides the component connections or do I need to take the comp.'s out. Thanks for your assistance!! Any other info relative to hdmi connection such as "handshake" deal, etc. would be appreciated!!
Does the hdmi connection provide better picture and sound than the comp. connection?

Sorry if this question has been answered-can't seem to find it in the thread.

Is 56-point convergence through Service mode applied to all inputs, or woudl I need to select DVI, then go into Service mode and do convergence just for DVI?

Everything input that is non-1080i (or 540p) is converted to 1080i (or 580p), therefore the convergence is universal.

I would appreciate someone's help with info on hdmi. I got one today for my tosh46h84 and would like to know if it overrides the component connections or do I need to take the comp.'s out. Thanks for your assistance!! Any other info relative to hdmi connection such as "handshake" deal, etc. would be appreciated!!
Does the hdmi connection provide better picture and sound than the comp. connection?

Leave component in (you have two to select from). HDMI does not override component. It is a separate input (#6). HDMI will provide a better picture in most systems, PROVIDED that you purchase a very high quality cable.

I bought a 46h84 from bb in 10/04. I've had no problems with it until last month. Now when i do the 56 pt convergence, the next day or after the tv has been turned on the red and blue separate around the edge of the screen. Has anyone else had this problem.

Just part of the fun of owning a set with superior blacks to plasma, dlp or lcd. :D

I am extremely new to this "hobby". I haven't even heard of a service menu until 3 months ago. Is there a "newbie guide" that someone can point me to? I don't like to ask a lot of questions without doing my homework first, and I don't want to screw up the set to where it is not watchable. I have a Toshiba 57H84 that was purchased new about 17 months ago. It has great color and clarity, but i was talking to a co-worker a few months back, and he turned me on to this site. He also told me that if I think that the color and clarity are great, just wait until I learn how to fine tune the unit.

I do want to let whoever answers this know, I do not have any kind of Hi-Def or digital reception, although my unit is connected to my DVD player through composite connections and then connected to a home theater system. I hope having "basic" cable will not prohibit me from obtaining a better picture.

Thanks to all in advance!

-Jeff

Jeff,

I was in the same boat as you last year when I got my set. I found this site and this thread and the rest is history. You can start out by checking the manual that came with your set. There's information about doing a manual convergence within it that you can follow. You can also search this thread for more information on getting into the service menu (if you have to). You should also know that there are DVDs that you can use to tweak your picture (do a search for AVIA DVD).

I've done the convergence and have used the AVIA DVD to enhance the overall picture quality on the set and it's definitely worth it.

You should also think about changing the cables you are using for your DVD player. Some would say that composite cables are the worst to use. Going to component or DVI/HDMI is the way to go. I use component with my player as that is the best connection it supports.

Finally, it's too bad you don't have any HD content to view. I find the picture quality to be outstanding with HD content.

Good luck and welcome......

I am extremely new to this "hobby". I haven't even heard of a service menu until 3 months ago. Is there a "newbie guide" that someone can point me to? I don't like to ask a lot of questions without doing my homework first, and I don't want to screw up the set to where it is not watchable. I have a Toshiba 57H84 that was purchased new about 17 months ago. It has great color and clarity, but i was talking to a co-worker a few months back, and he turned me on to this site. He also told me that if I think that the color and clarity are great, just wait until I learn how to fine tune the unit.

I do want to let whoever answers this know, I do not have any kind of Hi-Def or digital reception, although my unit is connected to my DVD player through composite connections and then connected to a home theater system. I hope having "basic" cable will not prohibit me from obtaining a better picture.

Thanks to all in advance!

-Jeff


At the very least, you should connect your dvd through its component output. Try starting off with a calibration disc such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials before you think of going into the service menu to do the 56 point convergence. Search in this thread for instructions on how to get into the menu and do the convergence. It is not difficult.

I have a spider inside my tv. I see someone else had the same problem...

Do I need to take the screen off to get the spider out? Or is there some way I can blow compressed air in there to get the spider to fall off somehow without going as far as taking the screen off?

Would detaching the top and bottom (split cabinet) be easier than taking the screen off? I'd rather not take the screen off it seems to be a lot of work. Thanks for any suggestions- this is pretty embarrassing.

AvsGoblin,

Weird seeing a spider in there, isn't it? I had to take the cabinet apart to get to it and it's a good idea anyhow. I found more than just a spider in there. Webs were going all over the place and my lenses were dusty. I cleaned the mirror, the back of the screen and the lenses while I had the set apart.

Good luck with it....:)

At the very least, you should connect your dvd through its component output. Try starting off with a calibration disc such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials before you think of going into the service menu to do the 56 point convergence. Search in this thread for instructions on how to get into the menu and do the convergence. It is not difficult.

To Yardy and PJO-
Just wanted to say "thanx" for your responses. And also, I stand corrected. After further poking around the back of my DVD Player, my cables are connected through the component output. Just a mix up on my part.

Although I have purchased the AVIA calibration DVD, and followed it to a "T" (with the excepton of using the blue filter) my picture still doesn't look much different than it did before. The biggest difference is that it is not as bright, due to the lower contrast setting. I still cannot find what the service menu codes mean, so I refuse to touch them.

Although I am a "tweaker" by nature, I will keep reading before making any further adjustments, and will keep this forum posted of any changes I make and share them with all, bad or good. Just wish I had more time to play!! :)

Do any of you gentlemen know how to hard reset a toshiba hx83 51" I lost the page where i wrote down all of the default service menu settings and i wanted to reset all of them thanks.

Not to discourage you, but there's no such feature.

Do any of you gentlemen know how to hard reset a toshiba hx83 51" I lost the page where i wrote down all of the default service menu settings and i wanted to reset all of them thanks.

yeah thats not good so I ask have any of you with an hx83 have written down all of those service menu default settings I know theres like a hundred of them but this is my only hope to save my distored tv

Do any of you gentlemen know how to hard reset a toshiba hx83 51" I lost the page where i wrote down all of the default service menu settings and i wanted to reset all of them thanks.

i have a 57hx83 i did a bunch of work on and wrote up a whole pile of stuff (not a calibrator..just a tweaker/lurker..the usual disclaimers)
you can find parameters in there.
***see below for url***
and navigate 57hx83 > tweaks > parameters > mine
there is other info there but the params are there.
i assume you know this MIGHT get you in the ballpark with your set. each
set is different OOTB. good luck.

GEEZ i can't post a url til i post 5 times. LOL
here it is ugly style: [the usual hypertext stuff, no w's] mysite "dot" verizon "dot" net "slash" somado "slash" hdtv "slash"

hope it helps...phil

Hi, just got 57H84 back from repairshop. Problem was that picture was all blue and flickering from BLUE to normal. Thought was short in blue gun to cause it to overdrive, shop said they replaced a controller board.

Okay, been starting to recalibrate it with Avia and have 2 problems/issue.

1) My brightness setting used to be about 44 and now it is 30. Would it change that much from a board being replaced?

2) When I use 10 and 20 IRE screen in Avia I can detect a very subtle flicker. I don't think I noticed that before. Tried different wall outlet and same thing. Can't see it when watching tv/movies but if you pause during like a black scene and look hard can see flicker in parts of screen. Hate to call shop again now. Have 3 years left on warranty. Need to touch up geometry/convergence but after changing brightness to 30, HDNET for example looks good.

Found this on another site. Guy describes flicker problem better than I do.

Toshiba 72MX195 flicker problem in dark scenes

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Has anyone else noticed this? I have tried to isolate the problem with no luck. Ive set it up in 2 different households, and used a voltage regulator. I dont believe my source device is the problem, as Ive tried satellite, xbox360, AV receiver, and computer.

There is what I would describe as a flicker that is most noticeable during dark scenes. Once you notice it and your eye is trained, youll see it in lighter scenes as well, but its especially noticeable during fading out to dark scenes. It almost looks like that backlight flicker from and old movie theater projector or something?

The easiest way I replicate it is play a trailer and hit pause just as the screen is fading to black. Youll notice the picture is still but the TV still has this noise/flicker.

In regards to my brightness setting, the problem is probably I need to do my grayscale first, which I had planned on doing. When I first got tv back I did like 5 minute change because could tell blue was way low and lots of red in blacks.

Changing grayscale will cause change in brightness, right?

Well I did the grayscale, the RCUT was reduced and BCUT raised a lot from what they were before it was repaired. Wow, for someone not in the know, they would have received a tv with horrible yellow/green grays. Anyway, settings now are:

Contrast 45 (I like it higher)
Brightness 36 for DVDs and 28 on HD Dish receiver all using component
Color 45
Tint R 9
Sharpness 35

I just worry that 28 brightness seems so low when before the repair all my brightness settings were in 40's.

But I guess a new board will cause grayscale/brightness to change?

Hello all.
How is the internal scaler on these tv's? Has anyone done a comparison between a regular/progressive player and a upconverting player. Are there any noticeable differences and if so which brand(s) pair up well with these tv's? I was planning on getting one for my 51H93 set with dvi, but I'm not sure I would get a better picture.

Yardy - I don't have an upconverting player to compare to, but I connected my Dish Network 942 receiver both with the component and HDMI and they looked about the same.

On a separate subject - has anyone had any problems with the top half of the set rattling due to the speakers vibrations? Every once in a while I can hear the plastic on the top left side vibrate and rattle when the built in speakers produce a low tone. I want to just screw in a screw to tighten it down, but don't want to damage things inside. I have checked all the other screws and connections to make sure they are tight. Anyone else have this problem?

Hello all.
How is the internal scaler on these tv's? Has anyone done a comparison between a regular/progressive player and a upconverting player. Are there any noticeable differences and if so which brand(s) pair up well with these tv's? I was planning on getting one for my 51H93 set with dvi, but I'm not sure I would get a better picture.


Yardy,

I'm using an OPPO 971 as my upconverting DVD player, with a 65HX93. I'm pretty happy with the results. It certainly isn't as good as HiDef broadcast, but there was a definite improvement over my last DVD player.

I also record analog TV broadcasts on 2 different DVD recorders and playback using the OPPO. The resulting PQ is better than broadcast analog on the TV.

Rick

Yardy,

I'm using an OPPO 971 as my upconverting DVD player, with a 65HX93. I'm pretty happy with the results. It certainly isn't as good as HiDef broadcast, but there was a definite improvement over my last DVD player.

I also record analog TV broadcasts on 2 different DVD recorders and playback using the OPPO. The resulting PQ is better than broadcast analog on the TV.

Rick

pacman 13- My tv only rattles if I turn the volume all the way up. And its the bottom half that rattles, not the top.

rickie- Thanks for the input. I think I'll get an upconverting player (maybe the OPPP) to see for myself if there is a significant improvement. I see that the prices on these players are pretty low these days.

On a separate subject - has anyone had any problems with the top half of the set rattling due to the speakers vibrations? Every once in a while I can hear the plastic on the top left side vibrate and rattle when the built in speakers produce a low tone. I want to just screw in a screw to tighten it down, but don't want to damage things inside. I have checked all the other screws and connections to make sure they are tight. Anyone else have this problem?

just glue something heavy to the plastic shell where you think it is rattling to
change its resonant frequency. use a flexible but strong glue that can be
removed in future. my favorite is Goop Marine contact adhesive (hardware store
purchase like home depot). it is strong and flexible and can be removed (with
significant effort) without damaging surface.
putting a screw thru the shell blindly would be a mistake for sure.

Just bought a new 51H84 here in Brazil for quite a bargain, almos half the original asking price (they're phasing out the rear projection CRTs here too).

One question: properly calibrated, how many lines of resolution is this set capable of displaying? Will 720p Xbox 360 games look way sharper than DVDs thru component video?

720p signals are not optimal on the Toshiba CRTs. It will display a picture, but it will be downrezzed to 540p and lose a significant amount of horizontal resolution as well. Don't expect much more than 1250 lines of horizontal resolution under even the best conditions (with a proper native 1080i input signal.)

Well, 1250 lines may not seem much, but compared to my infocus X1 800*450 picture, it should look spectacular. I was thinking of getting a Optoma H72 instead, but since the asking price was so low here in Brazil, I decided to postpone my next projector until 1080p SXRD or DLP gets below 3000US$.

Properly calibrated, I believe this Toshiba will blow my x1 out of the water, specially in the black level department (terrible on the X1).

Any newbie tips? I ordered a DVE disc, should arrive tomorrow.

Well, 1250 lines may not seem much, but compared to my infocus X1 800*450 picture, it should look spectacular. I was thinking of getting a Optoma H72 instead, but since the asking price was so low here in Brazil, I decided to postpone my next projector until 1080p SXRD or DLP gets below 3000US$.

Properly calibrated, I believe this Toshiba will blow my x1 out of the water, specially in the black level department (terrible on the X1).

Any newbie tips? I ordered a DVE disc, should arrive tomorrow.

Traded my h83 in for a digital last year,but I would highly recommend removing glare screen.

Enjoy and good luck.

Properly calibrated, I believe this Toshiba will blow my x1 out of the water, specially in the black level department (terrible on the X1)..

Well sure ... just feed the Tosh 1080i and you and it will be happy.

Now I got confused.

I still haven't had time to play with the 51H84 yet (I'll do that this weekend), but I tried some menus, including the convergence one. I was quite a bit surprised to find out the USER convergence menu has 56 points, instead of 9.
I was under the impression that 56point convergence was only accessible via the service menu.

What comes?

Plus, the blooming I see usually is in the BLUE channel, not the red. All the convergence dots seem to have a blue halo around them...

I have a 57H93 and messed with my service code settings before I wrote them down:-) Do you have them written down?

Plus, the blooming I see usually is in the BLUE channel, not the red. All the convergence dots seem to have a blue halo around them...

This is normal to some extent. The blue gun will not focus as tightly as red and green, and blue will bloom first due to limitations of the phospher. All CRT based RPTVs behave this way.

This is normal to some extent. The blue gun will not focus as tightly as red and green, and blue will bloom first due to limitations of the phospher. All CRT based RPTVs behave this way.

Also, doesn't blue define grayscale?

Now I got confused.

I still haven't had time to play with the 51H84 yet (I'll do that this weekend), but I tried some menus, including the convergence one. I was quite a bit surprised to find out the USER convergence menu has 56 points, instead of 9.
I was under the impression that 56point convergence was only accessible via the service menu.

What comes?

Plus, the blooming I see usually is in the BLUE channel, not the red. All the convergence dots seem to have a blue halo around them...

83 is service only, 84 is user level.

I believe the HX93's had 56-point user convergence, and then that filtered down to the H84s for the next model year.

Also, doesn't blue define grayscale?

Yes, in the old days, blue was intentionally defocused to help stabilize the greyscale.

That's interesting.

So, concerning the convergence, if I go in the service menu and adjust the convergence so it is perfect, can I save it to the touch focus button?

Plus, should I follow any specific order of convergence points while doing it (left to right, top-down, spiraling from the center outward, etc)?

spiraling from the center outward?

Yes. It's not a bad idea to reverse directions the next time you do a 56pt.

As for saving it to TouchFocus, I'm not familiar with the specific quirks on your model. Sometimes this causes more problems than it's worth.

I have a 46HX83. Can someone tell me how to get into the Service Menu to check the overscan. Also there are supposed to be instruction somewhere on this board for the 56 pt conv. but I can't seem to find it. If someone could tell me where to find it I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Chris

I have a 46HX83. Can someone tell me how to get into the Service Menu to check the overscan. Also there are supposed to be instruction somewhere on this board for the 56 pt conv. but I can't seem to find it. If someone could tell me where to find it I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Chris

try: http://www.bus.ucf.edu/cwhite/theater/Convergence.htm

Guys, I'm having a quite serious problem with my set (51H84), it shows severe color banding in darker scenes when the set is connected to the DVD player and the Xbox 360 using component (color stream) and progressive or HD video.

If I use 480p, 1080i or 720p, I get the terrible color banding in darker areas.
If I feed the TV 480i, it goes away and the image is smooth.

But the reason I bought this is HD signals. I don't care for 480i...

Any ideas? Should I call Toshiba?

This is my first post and I would like some advice regarding my Toshiba 51H84. The set is around 1 year old. It had a perfect picture right after delivery. A couple of weeks ago I turned on the set and the picture had a severe pincushion effect. The bottom of the image was arched vertically and the sides sunk in. I have a 4 year warranty so I called for service. The technician worked hard on the set adjusting the picture for over 1 hour. It is much better but it now has what I would call a fisheye effect. Viewing a news ticker at the bottom of the screen looks wavy and overall like the text is closer to me in the center vs the sides. It seems to be an arch horizontally. Also, the picture compresses at the top and bottom. Peoples heads shrink vertically as they move to the top of the screen. The TV was not this way when I got it. Does anyone know what might cause this or what direction I can point the service tech to when I call him back? I get the feeling they will tell me it is normal for it to be this way. I know I had a virtually perfect picture for many months before some event distorted the picture. Any advice is appreciated. Thank-you.

Either I got him on a slow day and he had the nothing else to do or this company is one of the few service centers that actually try to do a good job out in the field. What part of his repair do you consider to be excessive? Fixing the white line issue? The geometry? The color decoder? The gray scale? The out of focus lens?

Put another way, this tech saved Toshiba from me calling time and time again until it was taken care of. Which is better for Toshiba? 1 trip to do it right, or multiple service calls and a frustrated customer?

Anyway.. your response has promted me to write a letter to the owner of the company commending this tech for his outstanding and knowledgeable service. :)
I missed this somehow. We spend all the time necessary to give the best service necessary and that the product is capable - and the user has patience. Reid is one of my best field engineers. Also, we haven't had a slow day since 1991.

Hello guys , I need help on how to clean my 57h83(lenses), could somebody tell me how to do it please, I've had it for 3 years , and never cleaned it before,is it necessary to clean it or not?, I am just afraid I will mess it up. please any help is welcome.
Thank you

I missed this somehow. We spend all the time necessary to give the best service necessary and that the product is capable - and the user has patience. Reid is one of my best field engineers. Also, we haven't had a slow day since 1991.

I'd sent you a private email commending Reid. Hope you received it.

Highly recommend INTECH Labs (http://www.intechlabs.com/service/servicemain.htm) for serious videophiles in the DFW area. Reid was extremely persistent in the total job. I'd had a tech (laughs) from Best Buy come out and he claimed he couldn't see the white line when my wife and I were both pointing to it. Resubmitted the claim after looking up INTECH Labs (http://www.intechlabs.com/service/servicemain.htm) at the Toshiba web site.

These guys are authorized for service on Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Pioneer,
RCA, Samsung and Toshiba.

I have a 57h83 that the picture is slightly shifted to the right and was wondering if there is a way to fix this in the service menus ? I did recently move the set and noticed this after I moved it so maybe I accidentally shifted the CRT’s :eek: “I hope Not” but the picture is still very sharp. I would like to adjust the Over-Scan as well when I’m in there as this has always been an issue and would like to do this at the same time. I guess what I really need is a layout of the service menu structure this way I could find what I need without disturbing anything else. Does anyone have something like this or is there a web site that would have this kind of info ? :)

Regards, Grant

OK, I see now that I just needed to read further back to get the info I needed sorry.

BUT, I do have a couple questions about the HIT and WID These would be for Global overscan adjustments, RIGHT ? And the HPOS and VPOS is for Global Positioning, RIGHT ? Not just one input or resolution. My 57H83 has the picture slightly shifted to the right and there is it defiantly to much over scan and it seams to be the same for all sources . But I don’t want to have to do this for each and every input and/or resolution. And I do use the Theater Wide Mode 1 for the Standard def (480i and 480p) stuff from my Comcast HD Box on Component 1, I also use the DVI input of the TV for the Sammy DVD player that outputs 1080i via HDMI and it to is shifted and has to much over scan.

Could someone please help me clarify this. And is this also true for the convergence settings as well ?

Regards, Grant

And the HPOS and VPOS is for Global Positioning, RIGHT ?

i don't think you are going to find VPOS or HPOS for that model (57H83). its something like
VPS1 and VPS2 for VPOS. you may need to experiment.
HPOS was an oversight for that model..does not exist.
you have to go into ADDR mode to get to appropriate cells and
that requires a universal remote with the ability to send a numeric code 014
for the tv device 0156. don't try it til you are sure of what you are doing.

you can read more about HPOS at:
http://home.comcast.net/~nick.panaccio/HDTV/
Nick was the original finder (kudos) of what appears to work.

those and other params are also listed here:
http://mysite.verizon.net/somado/hdtv/83misc/ParametersBlank.pdf

both sites' info were determined experimentally and not official tosh stuff.
read and heed the warnings!!!!

if i remember correctly, geometry params (HIT, etc.) should operate as you suggest (globally)
but the ADDR mode HPOS cells are input/rate dependant.
good luck...phil

Thanks cougar97201 for the info that was very helpful.

I did a HIT & WID adjustment today , I had to adjust the HIT 2 steps down and the WID had to be adjusted 7 steps down to get the over scan adjusted right. One thing I noted after doing this was that I had to readjust the Convergence of the Red & Blue to lineup again with the Green, they were correct in the center but off to the left for Blue and the right for Red, in other words if I had a Line adjustment I could have fixed them without having to adjust each zone. Like many front CRT’s there is something like, Bow, Skew, Line, Shift, Size etc. for each color to converge the grids. Line would have been able to move the grid left or right for Red or Blue and the centers would have stayed the same. There doesn’t seem to be anything like that in this RPTV. Or is there ? I don’t seem to see anything in the info I have found so far that would do something like that.

So is this normal having to adjust the Red & Blue Convergence after adjusting HIT & WID ?

And adjusting the grids by zone to fix a horizontal lineup issue in this way is also normal ?

So is this normal having to adjust the Red & Blue Convergence after adjusting HIT & WID ?

Yes ... this occurs due to the physical geometry of the CRTs in relation to the mirror and screen. The same thing causes focus and greyscale differentials from side to side.

Thanks HDTVChallenged that makes me feel much better, at first I thought that I might have done something wrong.

Cougar97201, I’m going to need some help understanding how to get into ADDR mode as stated in the doc you showed me it says, Use Toshiba Device Code = 0156. Advanced Code (EFC) for ADDR mode = 014. Exit = Normal mode. In another doc I read it said “SET, followed by 014” entered ADDR mode. :confused:

OK, I don’t have a All for One remote, I am currently using a cheep Radio Shack remote that I believe is programmed with Toshiba code 0156, so after entering service mode and I see the S on screen I then push the Menu button on the set to get into designer mode I should now see RCUT and its value, Now I would push select ( which I think is the same as set ) followed by 014, this should now put me in ADDR Mode ? After carefully making my edits I then push EXIT to get out of ADDR mode then I would Power OFF the set to exit all service modes and save settings ?

So does that look correct to you ?

So does that look correct to you ?

Nope.
do not enter service mode first.

if your tv is responding to your univesal remote
then you are using the correct 0156 device code. you need a remote that will allow
you to enter a 014 EFC, usually by hitting a special button (Set?) and entering 014 on the numeric keypad.
Although not necessary for your purposes if your current remote is capable
of this; you can read more about EFCs, etc. and JP1 programming of
some cheap remotes here (a net bright spot):
http://www.hifi-remote.com

warning:
The 014 EFC gets you into ADDR mode, other EFCs may fry your set.
To those casually reading this and thinking it would be
fun to get into ADDR mode, you can fry your set if you are not
careful. enter at your own risk. kiss you warranty goodbye if you break something
in there. you will only see hex addrs and values
in there and for the most part they are a mystery (to most folks) for this model (57h83).

good luck...phil

ps: i only snipe here so aploogies if not using terminolgy others use in this thread
but i don't think it is proper to refer to designer mode for the 83 series.
that was a mode in older models and, although similar in concept to ADDR mode,
different in implementation. RCUT etc menu is not Designer mode.

Hey guys, I have a 65H84 and have a question about the picture sizes (Theater Wide 1, TW2...etc).

Should that setting save per input? When I switch to my DVD player on the component input, I have to manually change it to TW2 every time...

Is there a way to make this setting save?

On my H82, the zoom setting stays where ever you last left it per scan rate; i.e. 480i/p is "remembered" seperately from 1080i regardless of the input.

On my H82, the zoom setting stays where ever you last left it per scan rate; i.e. 480i/p is "remembered" seperately from 1080i regardless of the input.


That probably explains my problem then. I have a up-converting DVD set at 1080i which is the same scan rate as my HD DVR on the HDMI connection...

Hey guys, I have a 65H84 and have a question about the picture sizes (Theater Wide 1, TW2...etc).

Should that setting save per input? When I switch to my DVD player on the component input, I have to manually change it to TW2 every time...

Is there a way to make this setting save?

No way to save it, but I would have loved to see that option myself!

OK, I give up. I've searched Google till I'm blue in the face, and I haven't come up with a solution to this problem, so I turn to you for help.

I have a Toshiba 51H93, and my problem is overscan. I absolutely, positively cannot stand it. Using TigerDave's 1080p test pattern, I'm seeing a little over 5% overscan on the sides, and a little under 5% overscan on the top and bottom.

I could deal with maybe 1% or 2%, but 5%? No way.

Does anyone know how I can fix it without calling in a calibrator?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Silly me probably should have read the whole thread first. But it's 56 pages! :eek:

I found the answer I was looking for, thanks. :)

No way to save it, but I would have loved to see that option myself!

I did find sort of a work around for my situation. I programmed a macro on my remote so that whenever I switch to the DVD mode that the remote sends the codes for the TV to switch to TW2.

I could deal with maybe 1% or 2%, but 5%? No way.

You may find that the convergence board is going to have a really tough time around the edges at anything less than about 3.5% and that's pushing it.

Hey guys,

we own a 65h84 whih we've had for about 10 months now, and find it to be a great display. We have chosen that we will be upgrading to a newer set, most likely smaller as this set us very large and will most likely go the DLP 1080P route. But since couches and sofa chairs are our first priority, the DLP will have to wait another 6 months or so.

I have ordered, and will arrive on thursday, a ViP211 HD reciever through Dish. It will replace our entry level SD reciever. I plan to hook it up via Component (I have the DVD Player on HDMI) and I'd like to know the impressions of folks who have 1080i HD content on their 1080i CRTs. How does it look? Are they artifacts? Did I make the right move by going HD on my CRT?

Thank you!

-Gagan

OK, I give up. I've searched Google till I'm blue in the face, and I haven't come up with a solution to this problem, so I turn to you for help.

I have a Toshiba 51H93, and my problem is overscan. I absolutely, positively cannot stand it. Using TigerDave's 1080p test pattern, I'm seeing a little over 5% overscan on the sides, and a little under 5% overscan on the top and bottom.

I could deal with maybe 1% or 2%, but 5%? No way.

Does anyone know how I can fix it without calling in a calibrator?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Silly me probably should have read the whole thread first. But it's 56 pages! :eek:

I found the answer I was looking for, thanks. :)


So what was the answer?

Hey guys,

we own a 65h84 whih we've had for about 10 months now, and find it to be a great display. We have chosen that we will be upgrading to a newer set, most likely smaller as this set us very large and will most likely go the DLP 1080P route. But since couches and sofa chairs are our first priority, the DLP will have to wait another 6 months or so.

I have ordered, and will arrive on thursday, a ViP211 HD reciever through Dish. It will replace our entry level SD reciever. I plan to hook it up via Component (I have the DVD Player on HDMI) and I'd like to know the impressions of folks who have 1080i HD content on their 1080i CRTs. How does it look? Are they artifacts? Did I make the right move by going HD on my CRT?

Thank you!

-Gagan

You've made an excellent choice. Your display was design for 1080i content. To me, HD on a RP CRT looks better than on those microdisplays. You will be so blown away by the improved resolution than you may not notice any of the few artifact that may be present.

You've made an excellent choice. Your display was design for 1080i content. To me, HD on a RP CRT looks better than on those microdisplays. You will be so blown away by the improved resolution than you may not notice any of the few artifact that may be present.
Sounds good. I think it's only benefital since waiting to buy a new microdisplay would only mean cheaper and better as time goes on. Costco makes it easy since we can return this even a year from now if we wanted too.

I can't wait for thursday, when I can flip to discoveryHD in my own home!

Thanks,

-Gagan

Alright,


everything is here, and up and running, and the HD channels look awesome!

Problem though: Can't get the 4:3 channels to be streched to FULL, only TW1. Any way for me to make the TV enable FULL display mode? I don't want the bars on the sides to "burn" the TV set!

If anyone can help, I'd greatly appreciate it!

-Gagan

Alright,


everything is here, and up and running, and the HD channels look awesome!

Problem though: Can't get the 4:3 channels to be streched to FULL, only TW1. Any way for me to make the TV enable FULL display mode? I don't want the bars on the sides to "burn" the TV set!

If anyone can help, I'd greatly appreciate it!

-Gagan


I have the Tosh 65hx93 model, but it has the same stretch modes as your model.

I'd suggest using the TW1 stretch mode for the 4:3 material, If you use the full mode, you'll actually lose some of the picture at top and bottom. For my set at least the TW1 mode will fill the screen with only minimal distortion.

I use TW1 for most 4:3 material, TW2 for non-anamorphic widescreen and full for HD content. (This are just general, depending on what I"m doing I sometimes check other modes.

Rick


Rick

Full is locked out when viewing from my Dish ViP211, HDMI or Component. So I have Normal and the 3 TW selections. I'd like to use full, but I can't select it.

-Gagan

Actually it's (full) just locked out for 1080i and 720p signals. Switch your Vip211 (or any other STB) to 480i or 480p output and you'll be able to use "full" ... at least for component/s-vid/composite, I don't know about DVI/HDMI.

... I assume the OP was talking about SD 4:3 channels ... Also, I suspect that your STB just might have a way to "stretch" SD 4:3 that's upconverted to 1080i at the box.

My mother-in-law is having trouble with her 3 year old 46h83. The green light is bowing significantly at the top and bottom. This can be seen while watching TV and in the 9pt convergence. According to her it was working fine when they turned off the TV one night, and when they turned it on the next day the problem was there. I have done a fair amount of searching, but I am not sure what this is. Is there a geometry setting that can fix this such as: keystone, pincushion, etc… I have also read some posts for a similar problem that say the convergence circuit board is bad and needs repair/replacing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have also read some posts for a similar problem that say the convergence circuit board is bad and needs repair/replacing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

There aren't any SM geometry settings that effect only one CRT. Most likely it's the convergence board ... either way this is not something I'd try to fix myself.

either way this is not something I'd try to fix myself.

Thanks for the info. Although if I did want to learn how to resolder something on a convergence board, what better opportunity is there than to learn on the in-laws TV instead of my own? As far as in-laws go I have some pretty good ones. I think I will try to find a Toshiba technician. Thanks again.

I currently have a 46H83, which I have owned for a few years now. Great CRT I love it and honestly although I wanted to go plazma, I an in no hurry because this thing has been fantastic.

Anyway I am in the process of upgrading the rest of my system, I had already owned my HT system well before I bought this CRT. I dont know whether it was laziness or what but when I hooked it up I just turned off the speakers (which I listened to briefly before I did they sound pretty good) and used my HT's Center channel.

The current center channel is a Polk CS200, I noticed recently while reading through the manual that the center channel speakers built into the 46H83 are actually larger then my current center channel.

So are any of you guys using the built in speakers as your center, and if so do you think they will sound as good as my Polk's?

Reason why I am asking instead of just switching over and testing it is because they are all setup in a custom cabinent and its a big PITA to switch things around right now.

Thanks!

I have the 46HX83. The only I don't like, is the accumulation of no "anti-glare" coating spots on the screen. :(

I also had a HT Dolby system before I bought my 46HX83. It has (only) an unamplified center channel output. So, I need an amplified center channel speaker.

One of the reasons I bought the 46HX83, was the center channel input. ;) I hooked up my HT's center channel output to the 46HX83 on the first day, and have been using it that way ever since.

The 46HX83's speaker sound way better than the "matched" amplified speaker I had been using before this. I am quite pleased.

Plus there is some sense of getting my money's worth since the speakers are such a prominent feature of the front of the 46HX83, that it would surely be a waste to not actively make use of them!

I have a 3 or 4 year old h83. I recently had a service call for a fuzzy picture. The service man changed the drive pots as well as the focus. When he left the picture had a green cast. Thanks to this forum I managed to get the picture back to a reasonable. Some how while in service mode, I introduced two problems.

My video is driven thru the dvi input. I now have a channel #610 which shows a screen capture of whatever channel I last came from instead of the normal program on channel 610.

Second I have a fairly substantial bleeding or ghost to the right of any white area on the screen. The larger the area, tle larger the bleeding. This also occurs with other colored areas to a lessor extent.

Anyone have any ideas as to how to correct either of these two probles? Thanks in advance.

Hope everyones been enjoying their Toshiba sets! I'm celebrating 2 years ownership this month! Been a great set and I've got my money worth. Use it for just about everything and I've really been enjoying watching HD game trailers using my PC since they have a lot of HDTV content now.

Hope everyones been enjoying their Toshiba sets! I'm celebrating 2 years ownership this month! Been a great set and I've got my money worth. Use it for just about everything and I've really been enjoying watching HD game trailers using my PC since they have a lot of HDTV content now.

Can you give us a quick run down of how you connectyour PC to the Tosh? Do you just use DVI to HDMI/DVI? ANy special settings on the video card you are using (brand/model)? Any issues?

Thanks in advance, I'm looking to jump into the Media Center PC soon, but have no computer with a DVI out to experiment.

I have a Toshiba 57H83 set which I owned for about 3 years. Recently I found that the SD contents, like local OTA, is not displayed in the middle of the screen. It is displayed towards right side so that the black bar at the left side is about twice wide as that at the right side.

When I watch HD content, since the full screen is filled I don't know if it has the similar problem.

I wonder if there is anyway for me to correct it or do I need to hire some one to calibrate it?

Any suggestion is appreciated.

Hello guys , I need help on how to clean my 57h83(lenses), could somebody tell me how to do it please, I've had it for 3 years , and never cleaned it before,is it necessary to clean it or not?, I am just afraid I will mess it up. please any help is welcome.
Thank you

I would love to do this myself. Looking into my crt's I can see tons of dirt.

My Tosh Cinema Series 50HX81, which is just shy of 5 yrs old by a few weeks, broke a week ago. Something in the circuit boards died. I was watching a DVD when it just died, and the red LED on the power button was in a constant flashing mode.

I have a 5-yr extended warranty from the retailer, so I called and got immediate service from a local factory-authorized repair company. They had to pick the set up and take it to their shop for full diagnosis and troubleshooting. In 2 days it was repaired - they had to replace 2 IC chips and some resistors (so they told me), and cleaned the mirror and the screen. Had it back in service in 3 days total.

This is the first and only failure I've had with this set - it has been very reliable, and I tend to put a lot of hours on it. I asked what the repair would have cost - $400 was the answer. My warranty cost me $368 5 yrs ago. Guess it was a wash.

In any case, the picture is as good as ever, and even a bit brighter with the internal cleaning. I still believe this set is one of the best RP HD sets that has been on the market. Hopefully with this repair I've got many more years left in it.

I have a Spider living inside my 51H84c, what is the best way to get inside and remove it?

How do i get at the bolts holding the screen on that are behind the speaker grill? I assume there are just clips holding it on, but i don't want to break anything.

Thanks in advance

For Toshiba 51H83

Hi, I have a couple quick questions that I hope some knowledgable members can help me out with. Before someone asks, I have read this entire thread (several times), but may still have missed answers. If I have, please point me to the relevant post. Thanks in Advance.

I'm about 2 months away from taking the plunge into an HTPC. I want to do all my processing in the PC, and take the Toshiba's scaling out of the picture completely.

Should I feed the TV, via component or DVI?
1080i or 540p?
Any menu or service menu switches that I should change (Started with Movie mode, ALS=off, DNR=off, color warm)?

In the Theater menu, should I set Cinema mode on Film or Video (and what does this do anyway, pick a deinterlacing mode)?

And two unrelated questions:

Does the Sharpness control actually soften the picture at lowest settings? Conventional wisdom had been to turn the sharpness control all the way down, but I find a setting of 37 to be more accurate on Avia test patterns, and could probably go higher if not for fear of artifical sharpening? Any experts know what the most neutral setting is?

Does anyone else's "TouchFocus" feature just blow? I've gone into the service menu and done 64 point convergence several times, and when I press TouchFocus as prompted, it just screws everything up. I just finally exited without pressing TouchFocus, and never use the feature (I use 9-point for everyday touchups).

Thanks again,

Marshall

Kind of off topic but does anyone know a good place in NJ to get this thing serviced and calibrated?

Its going on 2 years old now and still works great. I recently upgraded my HT system and I am now using DVI instead of the S Video, ever since I did that the colors seem off to me more green then before.

I am not sure if its because I moved the TV to set up the new HT or of the Pioneer is giving off different signals through the DVI then my Onkyo did through S Video.

Kind of off topic but does anyone know a good place in NJ to get this thing serviced and calibrated?

Its going on 2 years old now and still works great. I recently upgraded my HT system and I am now using DVI instead of the S Video, ever since I did that the colors seem off to me more green then before.

I am not sure if its because I moved the TV to set up the new HT or of the Pioneer is giving off different signals through the DVI then my Onkyo did through S Video.

Ouch, that doesn't sound good. Anyone else having this issue? I'm looking to go from component to DVI soon when I build a media center PC, and this doesn't bode well.

Also, anyone having trouble with touchfocus per my post 2 up?

Ouch, that doesn't sound good. Anyone else having this issue? I'm looking to go from component to DVI soon when I build a media center PC, and this doesn't bode well.

Also, anyone having trouble with touchfocus per my post 2 up?


I have done touch focus but that really didnt do much of anything. It is not all the time, I think maybe I was overly sensitive it seems to be settling in now. I think part of the problem is the tv was off for so long when I moved it that I lost all the settings I had. I am now remembering that it took me a few days to set up the colors and contrasts the way I liked it the first time. Once it was set I havent touched it in almost 2 years. I guess I will have to work on it a bit.

I am thinking I want it serviced anyway, anyday now I will be hooking up the HD DVR from DTV and I want it in top shape before I do that.

Haven't posted in this thread in a long time.... I've got a 57H83 and am considering getting an upconverting DVD player. The ones I've got in mind are the Toshiba SD4990, Samsung HD960, and a Philips model (5960, I think). The Philips and the Toshiba also do DivX/XviD, which could be handy on occasion when we miss a TV show or forgot to DVR it, but the Samsung seems to be considered the best of the three. :(

Anyway, what I've been reading lately is "let your TV do the upconversion". Well, mine does when using the component inputs and I have the choice of 540p or 1080i. They're technically the same, are they not ?? To my eyes, I cannot see a difference between the two. DVDs look incredible on the TV too. Now, given the age of the TV and the quality of the scaler in it, would an upconverting player benefit me ??

What do others think ?? I don't see a lot of talk of upconverting players in this thread other than what about the OPPO model. This isn't a DVD thread either, of course, but I guess I need to factor in my TV first.

My understanding is that scalin DVDs to a higher resolution does little to no good with CRT based displays as the do not have a native resolution. For instance, if you have a computer with both a crt display and an LCD display, try this. PUt both monitors on the LCD's native resolution: The both look nice and sharp. Now try a non native resolution, and the LCD will look fuzzy while the CRT looks sharp.

Now, for the other elements of DVD playback that could be improved with a different DVD player, 3:2 pull down, Noise Reduction, etc., those should make a difference on a CRT display.

I'd say, if DVDs look good, stay the course and save your $$. If you want to see an improvement, you'll likely have to go with the Top End Oppo 971, or a media PC w/ ffdshow or Geforce 7600GT (lowest 7000 series with full purevideo features) or better.

I also would love to know exactly what the 540p does (This set is not capable of displaying a progressive signal is it?)

Also, how's your touch-focus working? See my post a couple up.

Haven't posted in this thread in a long time.... I've got a 57H83 and am considering getting an upconverting DVD player. The ones I've got in mind are the Toshiba SD4990, Samsung HD960, and a Philips model (5960, I think). The Philips and the Toshiba also do DivX/XviD, which could be handy on occasion when we miss a TV show or forgot to DVR it, but the Samsung seems to be considered the best of the three. :(

Anyway, what I've been reading lately is "let your TV do the upconversion". Well, mine does when using the component inputs and I have the choice of 540p or 1080i. They're technically the same, are they not ?? To my eyes, I cannot see a difference between the two. DVDs look incredible on the TV too. Now, given the age of the TV and the quality of the scaler in it, would an upconverting player benefit me ??

What do others think ?? I don't see a lot of talk of upconverting players in this thread other than what about the OPPO model. This isn't a DVD thread either, of course, but I guess I need to factor in my TV first.

Haven't posted in this thread in a long time.... I've got a 57H83 and am considering getting an upconverting DVD player. The ones I've got in mind are the Toshiba SD4990, Samsung HD960, and a Philips model (5960, I think). The Philips and the Toshiba also do DivX/XviD, which could be handy on occasion when we miss a TV show or forgot to DVR it, but the Samsung seems to be considered the best of the three. :(

Anyway, what I've been reading lately is "let your TV do the upconversion". Well, mine does when using the component inputs and I have the choice of 540p or 1080i. They're technically the same, are they not ?? To my eyes, I cannot see a difference between the two. DVDs look incredible on the TV too. Now, given the age of the TV and the quality of the scaler in it, would an upconverting player benefit me ??

What do others think ?? I don't see a lot of talk of upconverting players in this thread other than what about the OPPO model. This isn't a DVD thread either, of course, but I guess I need to factor in my TV first.

I have an OPPO 971 feeding my Toshiba 65HX93 via DVI. The picture quality is better than what I got on my rpevious Onkyo DVD changer/player connected via componenet. It's also significantly better than quality from DVD's played on my Pioneer DVD recorder also connected via componnet.

The OPPO outputs either 540p, 720p, or 1080i. I use either 1080 or 720(the pic quality differncve is virtually indetectable). While the Tosh will display 540p, it will not accept 540p input via DVI.

In any event, I've become spoiled by the OPPO 971. I dont think I could go back now. There are some issues associtaed with playing non-anamorphic letterbox DVD's (some of the older transfers). I'm happy I invested in the OPPO.

Rick

I don't recall the exact meaning of the model numbers, but I know yours is 65", the "HX" is a higher grade than just "H", and does the "9" mean you've got an HD tuner built in ?? Nonetheless, you've got a CRT and see an improvement contrary to what eugovector said for CRTs and upconversion. No offense, eugo, but I hope you're understanding is wrong.... :) I'd still like more opinions, of course. I haven't made up my mind either way (though I do have the three DVD players on my Amazon.com wishlist !!). :D

I don't recall the exact meaning of the model numbers, but I know yours is 65", the "HX" is a higher grade than just "H", and does the "9" mean you've got an HD tuner built in ?? Nonetheless, you've got a CRT and see an improvement contrary to what eugovector said for CRTs and upconversion. No offense, eugo, but I hope you're understanding is wrong.... :) I'd still like more opinions, of course. I haven't made up my mind either way (though I do have the three DVD players on my Amazon.com wishlist !!). :D

Actually, maybe eugovector is right about CRTs and upconversion. It may be other aspects of the OPPO that are improving the pic quality. I've wondered if the DVI interface itself is reponsible for some of the improvement. But I just don't know, I do know the OPPO improved the pic quality. I turn most of the enhancments off on the OPPO, but some features are there simply because of the vido processing chip in the OPPO. But again, I also read the same thing about CRTs and up conversion. You might want to read some of the early part of the OPPO thread, for more thoughts, at least on theat model.

Also, everything you may have heard about the customer service from OPPO is true. They are responsive, helpful and still support the OPPO with firmware upgrades that add features as well as improve performance. (I hope that holds true even though they are getting ready to realize another high end player).

Yes I think the HX is a slightly higher model than the H, but from my understanding, a well calibrated H is just as good pic quality. There are some diferences in CRT lens as well, but not sure what all it means. the 9 does mean I have a built in HD tuner, which is GREAT! OTA HD broadcasts provide the best image I've ever seen on a TV.

In any event, when I first got the OPPO, my wife could see the difference, and shes generally doesnt remark on those things.

Good luck with decision!

Rick

I also would love to know exactly what the 540p does (This set is not capable of displaying a progressive signal is it?)

Sure it can ... the issue with the Toshiba is the sometimes balky "upcoversion" from 480i/p to 540p. The H83/HX83/93 series and above fixed most of the truely horrible upconversion problems, but I'm sure it's still not the best possible.

OTOH, Inputing 720p to one of these (CRT) sets is pretty much a waste of time and electrons. Stick to either 480p or 1080i sources.

The Philips and the Toshiba also do DivX/XviD, which could be handy on occasion when we miss a TV show or forgot to DVR it, but the Samsung seems to be considered the best of the three. Turns out the Samsung DVD-HD960 in fact does support DivX/Xvid and uses the same Faroudja chipset as the acclaimed OPPO player. Time to update my Amazon wishlist !

So... has anyone hooked a PS3 up to their Toshiba yet (esp. a 65H84)?

I'm moving and I'll have to sell my 42H83, which is too bad because it's been a great TV, Xbox 360 looks great on it. I don't know what would be a fair price though. What should I look for?

So... has anyone hooked a PS3 up to their Toshiba yet (esp. a 65H84)?

I have a 65H84 as well and just purchased a PS3 today. From what I've read, a problem with the PS3 is that it can't upscale 720p content (which is what many of the games are authored in) - it down converts it to 480p, which is bad news for us. And it also seems to be the case with 1080p content. Basically, the PS3 and 1080i displays do not get along, unless the 1080i display can do its own upscaling of 720p content. Sony is saying they have a firmware fix in the works, but with the scaling hardware not present in the player, I don't know how this is going to work.

Does anyone know if our sets can upscale 720p content to 1080i on their own?

Does anyone know if our sets can upscale 720p content to 1080i on their own?

I'm not sure about the x83, x84 series. I did experiment on my H82 and found that while it "accepts" 720p, it clearly downconverts 720p to 540p.

So... has anyone hooked a PS3 up to their Toshiba yet (esp. a 65H84)?

Yep - PS3 works fine with my 57H83. The TV wills scale the 720P signal to either 540P or 1080i.

Before I hooked up the PS3, I tested my Motorola HD DVR at 720P. The 57H83 defaulted to 540P but a quick switch of the menu and it was scaled to 1080i. I don't recall the PS3 defaulting the Toshiba to 540P - even while playing Reistance.

I just looked at a 2 year old 46H83. I"m sure that it was not damaged, but I was not impressed with the picture. DVD"s didn't seem very sharp. Broadcast TV (std resolutoin) didn't look much different than my 10 year old Hitachi ULtravision. I noticed a red shift at about 35 degrees of axis, horizontally.
The owner wasn't sophisticated in setting it up.
Can someone tell me that this would be worth $600-$700?
I am looking for a used RPTV, say about 46-50", I want to spend about $1100 max.
Is this just a setup issue, or perhaps a mediocre DVD player. Or what?
You guys speak highly of these models, but it didn't impress me.

THanks for any thoughts.
Greg

I just looked at a 2 year old 46H83. I"m sure that it was not damaged, but I was not impressed with the picture. DVD"s didn't seem very sharp. Broadcast TV (std resolutoin) didn't look much different than my 10 year old Hitachi ULtravision. I noticed a red shift at about 35 degrees of axis, horizontally.
The owner wasn't sophisticated in setting it up.
Can someone tell me that this would be worth $600-$700?
I am looking for a used RPTV, say about 46-50", I want to spend about $1100 max.
Is this just a setup issue, or perhaps a mediocre DVD player. Or what?
You guys speak highly of these models, but it didn't impress me.

THanks for any thoughts.
Greg

The owner probably had not done convergence setting in a long time and had the sharpness set too low (I believe these set give artificial softening at low sharpness settings).

Is this set worth $700? Hell no, not when you can buy a new 51" hitatchi at Circuit City for $800-900 on sale. But, CRT still gives the best pictre by far, and when I bought my 51H83 for $1200 delivered 3 years ago, I got a killer deal.

Buy the hitachi from Circuit City and Don't look back.

I was going to say exactly what eugovector said. $1100 used for a RPTV is WAY too pricy.

I have a 57H83. I've read in this thread that 56-point convergence affects all inputs.

However, when I am selecting different inputs against a black screen, the purple lettering seems to show different blue shading on the DVI input than on the component. Since the lettering of the input selection on-screen menu seems to be the exact same color as when you are converging blue to red in service mode, it would seem that if convergence was in good shape, there should be minimal and even blue shading around the purple lettering on any input.

The fact that it looks a bit different on different input types leads me to believe convergence may be a little different for the DVI input.

Has anyone else had any experiences like this?

I am connecting my HD DVD player via the DVI and my Blu-Ray via component, but if I have to set convergence for one input type over another, I may have to get an HDMI switch.

Thanks for any info.

I'm moving and I'll have to sell my 42H83, which is too bad because it's been a great TV, Xbox 360 looks great on it. I don't know what would be a fair price though. What should I look for?

I just got an XBox360 and hooked it up to my 46HX83. I got Perfect Dark with the system (720p) and have been playing that. However, I hooked the 360 up to a regular tube set on composite the first go around and played the game... when I set it up on my TV I noticed that portions of the game on the left and right are missing (the remaining ammo and something else icons are cut off).

The 360 is setup as 1080i (which the TV supports natively) over component. I believe I was able to go into the menu on the TV (maybe, because it was late and I remember the full/ws1/ws2/ws3 were 'not available') and select 1080i instead of 540p but it still is cutting off the sides (maybe the top too... don't know)

Is this because of the 540p capability of the TV? I have an LG terrestial tuner and I noticed that FOX (720P) does the same thing (the fox logo on the bottom right is cut-off on the right by about 35%) where CBS and the other 1080i channels seem to be okay (HD logo is tucked neatly in the corner, fully visible).

You mentioned how great 360 looks on your system, I was wondering if I am missing a setting (it does look good, but the image isn't correct)?

Secondarily, my TV is 3 years old and doesn't seem to hold convergence with a darn. I have to constantly mess with it or sports tickers, game menus, etc show red or blue shifting - especially across the bottom of the screen and more noticably on the left.

Touch Focus helps, then I do the 9 point from the regular menu but adjusting one section seems to pull on another.

Huppin's Hi-Fi in Spokane (really 1Kall.com) <---filter? sound it out ;0) where I got it will do a repair, suggesting that one or two pieces might have gone out - which is common they said. This would probably be less then $200 and they will reset everything to factory specs - this won't be an optimization by any standard... just a fix and reset. Is this worth it?

(sorry about the drawn out post...)

I see the service menu links, and went in there but it seemed cryptic so I go out of it. Without adjusting ind. adjustments in that menu is there a true 'reset' through a menu (regualar or service).

Thanks for any info

-s

ps... did search, but a longgg thread ;)