Hi,

I need a clarification.

I got a H78 (Euro model), which is feed from the HDMI from my Pioneer Elite DV59
(869 European) attached to a HDMI-DVI dongle.
I assume (???) that the output of this set-up is Video level.

I read in this thread that hitting DVI (or resynch) on the H77/78 will switch between PC (0 to 255) to Video (16 to 235) levels. I would then expect that doing this would result in the image becoming darker/brighter (at least the dark area being "crushed" or similar).
What happens is that when resynch/DVI button is pressed the H78 says "DVI-digital RGB" there is no difference whatsoever in the image. Am I misunderstanding the whole thing ?

Thanks for any hint.

DocG4

If you're sure the DVD player is outputting video level brightness then you just hit the DVI button. BL is right re-sync will send to PC brightness level. The thing is you never no what each device is sending out what, you have to test. Using a calibration dvd as long as the brightness level from the device can show the black bars in the calibration disc's brightness pattern you're ok. You would prefer you can black level calibrate in video level on this pj to avoid having to hit the re-sync button each time.

Fyi the first tosh HD-DVD player sent PC-video level and the only way to bring the black bars out of being crushed was to hit re-sync.

Thanks a lot for the explanation.

I had indeed completely misunderstood :( it I thought it was :

"Press (Resynch OR DVI) to _toggle_ the level"

and instead it is:

"Press Resynch for PC level OR DVI for Video" !

I will check with DVE or Avia this evening.

Thanks again for the excellent support !

DocG4

What should the spoke light setting be in the factory menu? white, black, blue, red etc.
Thanks
Bob

Hello all,

I've read about the lamp red light issue here and the solution to replace the bulb. I'm heading that way as the projector shuts off at least once every time I sit to watch for the night. Today it shut down three times. Getting annoying. I have to check how many hours.

Anyway, did anyone try putting a laptop cooler under the H78 and using the extra USB ports to add some external USB fans to further move the air around? Any chance this would extend my existing bulb now?

I built a 20x20 theater in the basement, it's pretty cold down there. Is it a thermal issue? I have it mounted on a shelf just below the ceiling (9 inches clearance above the proj) The shelf doesn't have holes (yet).

I was thinking of buying this one and adding some external USB quiet fans for more air movement. Any thoughts? Oh - I'll also add "looking for cheap costing bulbs..."

Targus Chill Hub (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MVJUW******cm_cr_pr_product_top)

+1 on a bulb request...any body have any leads?

I believe that there's one for sale on the "for sale" board for $180.00 (no affiliation). Cordially,

Just purchace one of these off a forum member, should arrive later this week or next. Been reading through this thread, but its pretty long. Anyone have a summary of what I need to look out for as in maintance, settings, problems, etc.

Thanx in advance

i have 3 projectors and a monitor connected to my mac g5. they were working fine for the last few weeks (i'm editing using them as a very extended desktop), but now the optoma h77 keeps showing me a 'no signal' even though the mac recognizes it. i'm connecting through the dvi port, converting to vga and back to dvi for mac input (seemed to work fine before..). i tried a single dvi cable and that didn't work either. any help greatly appreciated.

After 4 years and 2 bulbs...and getting 1600 hrs on the first bulb, I am now at 400 hours on my second bulb at low setting and am now getting a "blue" edge on the left side of the screen, on my 106" screen it is about 4" wide at the top and tapers down to northing at the bottom...getting a little worse each day. The picture, other that the edge is fine, and I notice no other issues wioth the PJ or picture. It was a new replacent bulb from buy.com so do I have a bad bulb or is it somehow out of adjustment?

Ressurecting this old thread since it did me well back when the PJ was new to update the software.

After 4 years and 2 bulbs...and getting 1600 hrs on the first bulb, I am now at 400 hours on my second bulb at low setting and am now getting a "blue" edge on the left side of the screen, on my 106" screen it is about 4" wide at the top and tapers down to northing at the bottom...getting a little worse each day. The picture, other that the edge is fine, and I notice no other issues wioth the PJ or picture. It was a new replacent bulb from buy.com so do I have a bad bulb or is it somehow out of adjustment?

Ressurecting this old thread since it did me well back when the PJ was new to update the software.

I don't spose you have the old bulb to put back in do ya?
It would be a good test if you do.

scott

After 4 years and 2 bulbs...and getting 1600 hrs on the first bulb, I am now at 400 hours on my second bulb at low setting and am now getting a "blue" edge on the left side of the screen, on my 106" screen it is about 4" wide at the top and tapers down to northing at the bottom...getting a little worse each day. The picture, other that the edge is fine, and I notice no other issues wioth the PJ or picture. It was a new replacent bulb from buy.com so do I have a bad bulb or is it somehow out of adjustment?

Ressurecting this old thread since it did me well back when the PJ was new to update the software.

This wouldn't be bulb related, it sounds more like light chamber / chip problems. On my NEC HT1000 I started getting a shadow on one side of the image, under warranty the replaced the light chamber. Try just zooming it out of view. You could try a full factory reset in the service menu though I don't think it would help. Write down your numbers before you reset if you do.

Hi everyone,
Well the lamp on my h77 finally quit (flashing blue and solid red). I think there's about 1500 hours, not bad. I do have a spare. This question was ask in this threed but I don't see an answer. How do you remove the projector cover to get to the lamp assy? I have removed the screw at the lower left rear(ceiling mount) but the panel is still in there tight. Do I try to slide it to the side or back or is there a good place to try to pry it off? I don't want to break the case. Knock wood, I have had zero problems with this pj execpt for one or two lamp misfires in the last three years. TIA.

Tom documented I believe in the H79 thread. Might wait for him to reply or start searching. I had a H79 and getting the cover off was a pain. The filter cover also is bad. Anyway, I believe you have to PUSH down and slide it out. I believe towards the back of the unit. I'm sure Tom will chime in... SJ

Thanks, hopefully Tom will chime in. I'll check in the H79 threed.

Thinking about it, I believe you push down and move it out either to the side or towards the back. A tricky operation, but Tom documented it somewhere! I even kept a copy of his instructions, but no longer have it (replaced the unit)... It's somewhere in one of the h79 or happy h78H79 threads... Good luck. SJ

Found one mention...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7954136#post7954136

go down and follow about three/four posts from there....

you slide it 1/4 inch either front or back (can't remember) and the thing will literally drop off (Assuming ceiling mount). You don't need to force it and no prying is required.

Pretty sure it is toward the back, I've had mine off 6 times. Broke a tab the first time I tried.

Big, SJ,
Thanks for the help. You have to slide it 1/4'' to the side (away from the pj). It came off and no broken tabs! :) You do have to use a little pressure to move it. Now, the bulb still looks perfect so I don't know if that it was it really is. Just to close the loop, I'll let you know when I put the new lamp in. It would be nice to get a new 1080p but just lost my job in Feb. Thanks again.

Oh well, it wasn't the lamp. The new one will not fire either. When I turn on the pj I don't hear the fan or color wheel. If I get close to the pj I can hear a faint clicking sound. I guess it's either the power suppply or a board malfunction. Don't know if it will be worth having fix. Any thoughts or ideas?:(

My .02c would be to upgrade. Going from my H79 to a 1080P unit (JVC) was a very significant improvement. SJ

if your sure the color wheel isn't damaged i could use your projector for parts. optoma said they cant even look at mine for under $100 so its been hard to think about repairing this unit. im sure my problem is the color wheel, after you remove the lamp you can see it and it is shattered. if you want to make a deal let me know

Oh well, it wasn't the lamp. The new one will not fire either. When I turn on the pj I don't hear the fan or color wheel. If I get close to the pj I can hear a faint clicking sound. I guess it's either the power suppply or a board malfunction. Don't know if it will be worth having fix. Any thoughts or ideas?:(

Sorry for being late, make sure the little plastic piece on the bulb lid is intact. When connected it releases the trigger point in the projector. If it's not there the projector won't start up. If so you could rig up something that opens the safety trigger. I use to use a Qtip when doing all the upgrades in the trigger point with the whole cover off to get the PJ to turn on.
Hope that's it, repairs are usually in the $500 range.

I use a H79 I got from an ungrader for $600 with a spare bulb also, still a great projector and one of Optoma's best. They put allot of quality and features in those projectors.

Tom,
Thanks for the reply. What are you calling the "buld lid"? If it is something on the bulb assy. then I assume it is intact since I tried with a new bulb assy. which did not help. Can you be a little more descriptive about where this plastic piece is? TIA.

When you slide the lid off there's a little electric trigger device in the center area of the PJ. It has a metal lever you could put a Qtip and seperate the lever which will allow the PJ to turn on without the door. Look over the door for the plastic piece that would touch the trigger lever, if it's broken off that's you problem. Or run the test with the door off it it works then plastic piece isn't hitting right.

Tom,
Thanks for the clerification. I'll give it a try before I send it off for diagnosis. I'll let you know.

I have an H77, upgraded and calibrated by Guitarman, that is approximately 4 years old in excellent condition. The original bulb has 400 hours. The replacement bulb, currently in the machine, also has about 400 hours on it. I am looking to upgrade and have a family member interested in my H77. Any thoughts on what a fair price for the unit would be?

Thanks.

Mark

When you slide the lid off there's a little electric trigger device in the center area of the PJ. It has a metal lever you could put a Qtip and seperate the lever which will allow the PJ to turn on without the door. Look over the door for the plastic piece that would touch the trigger lever, if it's broken off that's you problem. Or run the test with the door off it it works then plastic piece isn't hitting right.

Tom, Ive been away and just got back and finally had time to look at the pj. The tab on the cover is intact but I still got a qtip and pushed the trigger over and the pj came on!!! :) I put the cover back on and everything continued working. I turned the pj upside down (mounting position) and still A OK. I put some tape on the cover to keep it in place. I can only assume that the tab just barely moves the trigger and the cover was somehow a little off. Anyway, I'm going to remount and hope it keeps working. Thanks for your help and saving me some cash as well as getting the theather back up and running! I've really missed it this past month.

Any thoughts on what a fair price for the unit would be?
Something under $10.

Tom, Ive been away and just got back and finally had time to look at the pj. The tab on the cover is intact but I still got a qtip and pushed the trigger over and the pj came on!!! :) I put the cover back on and everything continued working. I turned the pj upside down (mounting position) and still A OK. I put some tape on the cover to keep it in place. I can only assume that the tab just barely moves the trigger and the cover was somehow a little off. Anyway, I'm going to remount and hope it keeps working. Thanks for your help and saving me some cash as well as getting the theather back up and running! I've really missed it this past month.

That's great it was just a little thing like the trigger point. You could fatten up the plastic piece or even disable the electronic part all together. It's only there to stop owners from taking off the cover while the projector is on.

just read your comment (2007) that you have managed to source the bulb for the H77. I have an H79. Do you still have any of these bulbs?

I just bought a new Orsam bulb on ebay from purelandsupply and it is identical to the Phillips down to the font used on the serial number of the glass reflector housing. Search optoma H79 bulb and it should pop up. I've only used the bulb two nights but it works fine. You do need to install it in the housing but that really isn't that hard just remember how everything comes apart and put it back the same way. I had my bulb in less than 24 hours from time of ordering via UPS.

I just bought a new Orsam bulb on ebay from purelandsupply and it is identical to the Phillips down to the font used on the serial number of the glass reflector housing. Search optoma H79 bulb and it should pop up. I've only used the bulb two nights but it works fine. You do need to install it in the housing but that really isn't that hard just remember how everything comes apart and put it back the same way. I had my bulb in less than 24 hours from time of ordering via UPS.

Thanks for your comments, I had some doubts with the Osram but now I'm going for it!!!

So we are now getting cheap 250watt lamps? Sounds great to me cause the H78/79 I have is the best thing I got. The H77/78/79 is a top notch HD design from Optoma. One of the best they ever made and they made some great projectors. I had the HD8200 1080p Dynamic black PJ in my home for a test. That one is grrrrreat!

Next up Lasers and LEDs. Till later

I have been following this thread as my H79 bulb was getting so dim we could barely see the films. I too have just ordered the bulb from Pureland (via Ebay). It was easy to fit and my projector is transformed! I live in the UK and it is impossible to buy just the bulb from local suppliers here. (I didnt get it shipped to the UK as I have friends in the US but they do offer an international service.)

About the fan/temp issue:
I bought a temp sensor that I put in the bulb room. (just behind the bulb)
Without any extra fan, I have 98°C, I added a low rpm silent 120mm fan, the temperature is now 82°C .

I hope it will help to longer the bulb life :)

About the fan/temp issue:
I bought a temp sensor that I put in the bulb room. (just behind the bulb)
Without any extra fan, I have 98°C, I added a low rpm silent 120mm fan, the temperature is now 82°C .

I hope it will help to longer the bulb life

That's a good tip. Other than the bulb dimming problem, these were good projectors that throw a nice 720p picture. Between adding a fan and cheap E Bay replacement bulbs owners should be able to get more life out of their machines.

May LED make bulb dimming a thing of the past...............

Anyone looking for H-77, 78, 79 lamp modules with new bulbs or and entire upgraded
H-77 contact via PM. Thanks