Originally posted by Jaspo
Done :eek:

And so begins the wait ... tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock

Woohoo!! Let us know how the experience turns out...

For a minute there I felt like that character in the movie "Pulp Fiction"...Push it, Push it!! :D

Does anybody know where I can see this set in the Atlanta area? or somewhere close by?

Best Buy and Circuit City here do not have them yet...nor does Compusa.

The base is just under 41" wide. I was looking for stands and saw one I liked that was 41" and this set would have just fit.



Originally posted by ralph44
Could someone do me a huge favor and let me know the width of the base?

Panasonic's site lists overall width, but I am wondering if the set would fit on a particular stand.

Thanks.

i saw on CC brochure, sunday, also, magnolia hifi!!

Originally posted by ralph44
Could someone do me a huge favor and let me know the width of the base?

Panasonic's site lists overall width, but I am wondering if the set would fit on a particular stand.

Thanks.
The base is 40 1/2 inches wide.

Ed

My "me too" post:

I decided to get a PT-50DL54. Ordered Thursday evening at Magnolia Hi-Fi, they delivered it Saturday afternoon. It seems very nice so far, although I didn't have all that much time this weekend to play with it and my high-def cable box won't arrive for a few days. I've got regular digital cable, an Xbox, a PS2, a Gamecube, a DVD player, and a PC plugged into it, and they all look pretty spiffy. And large. It's quite large. Large enough that I'm moving my chair back from where it used to be.

Originally posted by grandall
My "me too" post:

I decided to get a PT-50DL54. Ordered Thursday evening at Magnolia Hi-Fi, they delivered it Saturday afternoon. It seems very nice so far, although I didn't have all that much time this weekend to play with it and my high-def cable box won't arrive for a few days. I've got regular digital cable, an Xbox, a PS2, a Gamecube, a DVD player, and a PC plugged into it, and they all look pretty spiffy. And large. It's quite large. Large enough that I'm moving my chair back from where it used to be.

How far away are you watching from the set?

Someone mentioned possible issues with hooking a computer up the Panasonics. I know you would need a DVI to HDMI cable to do it, but can someone tell me if it works? We are already using powerstrip on our PC and it works great with our friend's samsung DLP (have to give that back soon).

I'm hoping the prices will start coming down on the 60" model, that's the one we want. Actually, my husband really wants the Kirk, the Samsung pic we saw at the Great Indoors was just a bit better than the panasonic. But there's no way we can live with that pedestal, we need a stand for all the components.

Thanks, Kim

Originally posted by korrell
Someone mentioned possible issues with hooking a computer up the Panasonics. I know you would need a DVI to HDMI cable to do it, but can someone tell me if it works? We are already using powerstrip on our PC and it works great with our friend's samsung DLP (have to give that back soon).

Thanks, Kim

Oh it works fine with the DVI-HDMI cable. You just have the standard overscan which can probably be tweaked out with Powerstrip. I tried for a little while, but just decided to live with the overscan as it's really not that bad to me.

Ed

Excellent! THanks Ed!

I found this thread at another forum discussing about Panasonic's lamp/ballast problems on some of their LCD sets and possibly dlp sets.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/14473.html

If any of you experience this similar problem, blown lamp, please let us know.

Thanks.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
The base is 40 1/2 inches wide.

Ed

Thanks.

Originally posted by dangerfish
Yes, Panasonic is going to release a 50 and 60 in model later this year that will have built in ATSC and cable card. Price should be about $500 more than the current models. Just a wast of money if you ask me.

Overall, I am very happy with this set. HD is fantastic and I am even very happy with the SD material.

Could someone explain how a built-in ATSC tuner and cablecard will help me?

I have Charter Cable HDTV with that silver Motorola box. I live on Lake Michigan in Michigan and was told that it would be very hard to receive High Def OTA. My local Custom Video shop said they have not had much luck helping people get OTA HDTV because of the lake effect and too many tall trees around my house. Most people pick up Chicago stations better than our local stations. They said I would need an antenna that rotates but still not a great picture.

In regards to Cable Card, if a TV has this can I get rid of my Motorola box? Can I just call Charter to verify this?

I saw this PT-50DL54 today at that Custom Video shop I mentioned above. I was very impressed to say the least. I couldn't believe I could get the HD2+, 8 segment colorwheel and a tabletop for around $3,000. :D

SD looked very, very good compared to every other DLP and LCD I checked out. I was more than impressed, I have checked out every DLP on the market and the only other two I liked was the Mits and the Captain Kirk model (I hate the look though, PQ was very nice).

I would really like to buy this set today, please help. :confused:

I'm pretty sure that the ~54 does not have the tuner or cable card, a number of sites appear to have the model details mixed up with the ~64 model. THe Panasonic site does not mention.

One thing to think about, if you decide to go the integrated cable / PVR / HD receiver route (Cox offer these now on the West Coast, check with your cableco) you will have no use for the cable card, and as the new combo unit offers HD (at a price admittedly) you will probably not need the tuner either . . .

Wish mine would arrive quicker - wonder if the truck driver will speed up from the East coast a bit . . . .

If you have cable and want to enjoy the Video-on-Demand (VOD) features, you would not be able to do so with the built-in cable card. VOD is only supported on the digital STB that the Cable companies provide unfortunately.

I may get this set later if I don't see rainbows. I am going to bring my DVE disk and put it on the geometry screen. If I shake my head a little and don't see rainbows, I will go DLP.

Originally posted by zeeeter
I'm pretty sure that the ~54 does not have the tuner or cable card, a number of sites appear to have the model details mixed up with the ~64 model. THe Panasonic site does not mention.


Here are all the models as listed on Arun Gupta's website:

PT-50DL54 – 50” MSRP $3499.95
PT-50DLD64 – 50”,ATSC+Cablecard Tuner MSRP $3999.95

PT-60DL54 – 60” MSRP $4499.95
PT-60DLD64 – 60”,ATSC+Cablecard Tuner MSRP $4999.95

Originally posted by F-Trader
Could someone explain how a built-in ATSC tuner and cablecard will help me?

Save your money and forget about the ATSC Tuner and the Cable Cards (CC). Since you can't get OTA HDTV, the only thing that could possibly help you is the CC.

CC are like owning a very limited cable box. My understanding is you can't do PPV and you don't get a cable guide. Some cable companies my give you a card for free, but others my charge. Assuming your cable company charges you $1/month for a CC and $6/month for a cable box, for that extra $500 you would be saving $5/month. you wouldn't make back your money for about 8 years

what's OTA? :(

But doesn't that cable card allow you the freedom to use that single HDMI input for your DVD while the cable signal would be input into the cable card? most sets in these days only come with 1 HDMI.

Am I correct?

The Mits have 2 inputs only and they're both HDMI, I think.

Originally posted by RudyMeister
what's OTA? :(

Over the Air

Originally posted by RudyMeister
But doesn't that cable card allow you the freedom to use that single HDMI input for your DVD while the cable signal would be input into the cable card? most sets in these days only come with 1 HDMI.

Am I correct?

The Mits have 2 inputs only and they're both HDMI, I think.

Yes, but since you can only get 480p out of your dvd player, why waste your best input option on that. Use the HDMI for your HD. If you really want to have more than 1 HDMI input, get a switch box. Do you even have a dvd player with HDMI? I wasnt aware of very many dvd players that actually had it and those were very expensive.

Originally posted by RudyMeister
The Mits have 2 inputs only and they're both HDMI, I think. [/B]

For digital inputs, the Mits has 1 HDMI input only, plus several firewire ports. Of the 2 antenna/cable ports, both can be be used with the internal ATSC and QAM tuners, Ant1 port is used when you have a cablecard. It, of course has several component, svideo, and a VGA port too.

Yes, but since you can only get 480p out of your dvd player, why waste your best input option on that. Use the HDMI for your HD. If you really want to have more than 1 HDMI input, get a switch box. Do you even have a dvd player with HDMI? I wasnt aware of very many dvd players that actually had it and those were very expensive.

well, you're right about the HDMI being the best input option and should be used for HD. However, I certainly would think that my set will be around for awhile and by then they should have some DVD player with HDMI coming out.
If I'm not mistaken, there's talk of receiver with DVI or HDMI already...though I do not like for my signals to go through multiple units before it gets to the TV. So, bypasing the receiver is what I would prefer. As in go straight from the DVD player to the TV set.

BTW, how does the switch box work? does it have a remote? lol or do you have to get to the back of the set and switch the box...because in some cases, folks with large entertainment center may make it difficult to switch the box

Could someone explain how a built-in ATSC tuner and cablecard will help me?

Is it worth an extra $500? :confused:

I have Charter Cable HDTV with that silver Motorola box. I live on Lake Michigan in Michigan and was told that it would be very hard to receive High Def OTA. My local Custom Video shop said they have not had much luck helping people get OTA HDTV because of the lake effect and too many tall trees around my house. Most people pick up Chicago stations better than our local stations. They said I would need an antenna that rotates but still not a great picture.

In regards to Cable Card, if a TV has this can I get rid of my Motorola box? Can I just call Charter to verify this?

Originally posted by F-Trader
Could someone explain how a built-in ATSC tuner and cablecard will help me?

Is it worth an extra $500? :confused:

I have Charter Cable HDTV with that silver Motorola box. I live on Lake Michigan in Michigan and was told that it would be very hard to receive High Def OTA. My local Custom Video shop said they have not had much luck helping people get OTA HDTV because of the lake effect and too many tall trees around my house. Most people pick up Chicago stations better than our local stations. They said I would need an antenna that rotates but still not a great picture.

In regards to Cable Card, if a TV has this can I get rid of my Motorola box? Can I just call Charter to verify this?

I though I did a few posts back?

Originally posted by F-Trader
In regards to Cable Card, if a TV has this can I get rid of my Motorola box? Can I just call Charter to verify this?

Yes, that is what you have to do. Cable card has the subscription information. Current cable card TV's do not offer the two-way communication needed to use the special services of your cable company. Although, I am sure you could just phone in for a pay-per-view event. I wonder if cable cards have any communication to the cable company at all, you may even have to buy them preprogrammed with your subscription information. I am obviously not sure about this information, so I woul call you cable company. For most bargain hunters this is not even considered. Only people I think that would be interested are those wishing to remove the ugly set-box.

As for the tuner, Only you can determine if it is of value. OTA ATSC receivers run from $250-$350 at the very least. Read the various feed back on forums in your area. Usually you will find that some stations are great, some are crap and some are unavailable in HD.

Check here for more info:

http://www.hdtvpub.com/

Well I went and looked at the Panny last night and did not like it. I was comparing it to the Sammy 85 model and think that the Sammy blows it out of the water. Sammy has better color, brighter, more detail and not washed out like the Panny. I had some hope after reading this thread but I will be holding out for the 74 series to see if it is close to the same quality as the 85.

Gee Temple, you are about the first person that has seen the Panny DLP that did not like it. I would find another store to view and not write it off that quick. I am new to the Forum and think it is a great resource. I, like many, keep waiting to see what the future brings and I keep putting off this major purchase decision. One thing I've learned is the major differences seen for the same TV at different stores. This past weekend one store had the new Samsung and it looked fantastic. The next store (major chains) it looked horrible and if seen there first I would not have looked a second time. This is very frustrating so I keep reading the posts on this Forum and try to get an "weighted feel" for what's out there.
I would love to find a store in my area that even has the new Panasonic DLP to look at since everyone is raving about it. Good Luck in your search!

I would echo nim4evr's advice on this. I've been in the market for a 50in Sony GWIII for about six months (procrastinator that I am) and was waiting for their bulb issues to get fixed before I bought. Since I saw the Panny I have completely abandoned the Sony in the Panny's favour. The first time I saw it was in Compusa where they had the crummiest feed you could believe. I asked them to put a 480i DVD feed through it to at least get a like for like comparision but they couldn't!!

Next stop was a Howards appliances where all their TVs have the exact same HD feed from Discovery and I was amazed how much better the Panny was than the Sony, they were luckily side by side!! As a final sanity check I went to our local "Great Indoors" where the helpful sales guys picked the TV up and moved it to an area where I could do another side by side comparison - again - much better.

Go get another look somewhere else.

Incidentally, I looked at the Sammys too, but for some reason I didn't quite gel with the PQ or the cosmetics of the units I saw. They also looks kinda flat to me, whereas the Panny looked more 3D, very subjective I know, but if you take a look at the Sony GWIII then the Panny you will certainly notice that the GWIII will give the impression of a "photographic" image where the Panny image looks to have more depth somehow. Could be darker darks, not sure.

Originally posted by Temple
Well I went and looked at the Panny last night and did not like it. I was comparing it to the Sammy 85 model and think that the Sammy blows it out of the water. Sammy has better color, brighter, more detail and not washed out like the Panny. I had some hope after reading this thread but I will be holding out for the 74 series to see if it is close to the same quality as the 85.

You saw the DLP Panny and not the LCD right? They have the same case with the exception of the black trim around the screen with the DLP. Your comments sound like similar observations I have made comparing various LCD models (Hitachi, Panasonic) to any variety of DLP models. I do think most would agree that the Samsung XX85 has a nice picture.

Having said that, I would also agree with the notion that the variation in setup and source material makes it very hard to evaluate these sets in a store. My gut tells me that when set up properly and viewed in a similar environment, all of the HD2+ models will have much more similarities than differences. I really don't know if any one vendor's technology could possibly be "blown out of the water". Perhaps, but I would expect the differences to be much more subtle. A more interesting comparison to me is the various HD2+ models to the Samsung HD3...different technologies, each with its own pluses and minuses.

I think the main appeal with the Panasonic is the fact that it gets you an HD2+ set at a pretty darn reasonable price. Picture quality per dollar (if there were such a measure) to me seems pretty good for a DLP offering.

I still haven't made my mind up though...I really like the dual digital inputs on the Samsung XX63 for about the same price.

Ben

Originally posted by dingJam

I think the main appeal with the Panasonic is the fact that it gets you an HD2+ set at a pretty darn reasonable price. Picture quality per dollar (if there were such a measure) to me seems pretty good for a DLP offering.

I still haven't made my mind up though...I really like the dual digital inputs on the Samsung XX63 for about the same price.

Ben

What about the Toshiba DLP that also offers the HD2+ chip?

Originally posted by ay221
I may get this set later if I don't see rainbows. I am going to bring my DVE disk and put it on the geometry screen. If I shake my head a little and don't see rainbows, I will go DLP.

I find if I move my eyes very rapidly, I do see the rainbows. I however, do not see them at all with regular viewing. One spot I kinda noticed them was during the World Cup of Hockey (SD feed) games, the hockey sticks on the ice do seem to exhibit some rainbowing.

EDIT: I just watched the final, and I'm not sure its rainbowing, or just the jaggies from the SD feed's PQ.

I'm onto week 2 of this set and still really enjoying it. Rainbowing does not bother me or my wife at all, and I'm getting used to having a fan in my TV.

Originally posted by RudyMeister
What about the Toshiba DLP that also offers the HD2+ chip?

Another possibility, but right now I have it behind the Panasonic because the Panasonic has a VGA input that the Toshiba doesn't, I like the black trim around the screen opposed to the gray on the basic Toshiba HM series, and it just isn't as widely available in my area for some reason. Small differences for sure. I actually like the HMX series Toshiba (extra HDMI input plus the black trim) but its bound to be a few more dollars than the Panasonic and doesn't seem to be showing up anywhere very fast.

Ben

Is there any information on what type of deinterlacer Panasonic uses? Is it Faroudja?

When looking at these sets I made sure that they were on the same source and I personally tweeked the settings so they were very close to each other. IMHO the Sammy really does blow the Panny out of the water.

If a manufacture uses HD2+ that does not meen that it will be as good or even near as good as other manufactures that use the same chip. Sammy has been doing this for a long time (the longest) and seem to really know what they are doing. I think the PQ on the DLP Panny is closer to the PQ on the Sammy HD3 set. And yes I am sure that I was looking at the DLP.

I give Panny another year and they will start to catch up to Sammy.

Some people say they can hardly see a difference between the Sammy HD3 and the HD2+ and to me there is a fairly large PQ difference.

Originally posted by Temple


Some people say they can hardly see a difference between the Sammy HD3 and the HD2+ and to me there is a fairly large PQ difference.

Agreed. Panny's HD2+ PQ is much better, then Summy's HD3 :)

don't the additional segments in the color wheel count?

Panasonic DLP has more :D

I saw the Panny 50" DLP today at Tweeter, right next to a Mitz 52" 52525 and several Sammy and Sony DLPs. Also nearby were Sammy, Panny and Pioneery plasmas :)

The Panny DLP was brighter than the other DLPs and had better contrast and color.

I was very impressed with this set. I even went back and forth between it and a few hd & ed plasmas in the area and it seemed nearly as good in PQ in the area of brightness, color, contrast and blacks....at least much better than the other DLPs in the store.

I'm really close to going for this set. We purchased the Panny 34x 50 HD Tau back in 2000 and have been very happy with it...a very dependable TV. We're used to viewing HD material so I was concerned that the DLP technology wasn't going to be on par with the tube set in the area of blacks. However, this DLP presents a lot of bag for the buck.

My viewing distance is about 11' so I'm a bit concerned that the 60" is going to be too much for a living room setting. Maybe if it was a family room I'd consider it. So, I think we're going to go for the 50".

Bob

Originally posted by dnaren
don't the additional segments in the color wheel count?

Panasonic DLP has more :D

It sure does.

8-segment color wheel (BTW, Panasonic is the only DLP set which has eight!) significantly decreases chances of rainbow effect.

I do have a really stupid question about my set though...

Exactly how can I tell what resolution (420p, 1080i, etc) is being displayed? Don't recall the manual mentioning anywhere...

I've been using Xbox on component, and just picked up one of the LG upscaling DVD players, and the TV doesn't tell me squat. Is this normal?

Originally posted by joedoe101
It sure does.

8-segment color wheel (BTW, Panasonic is the only DLP set which has eight!) significantly decreases chances of rainbow effect.

I certainly am not an electronic expert but I believe by having more color segment in the wheel ... does not equate to less or no more rainbow. From what I've read, the rainbow effect is caused by the spining of the color wheel. If it can spin faster, less chance of rainbow.

Now the 8 color segments should allow the set to produce a more realistic/vibrant color PQ? or it may even yield more details in darker scenes..I hope.

One thing for sure, it gets us to talk about it a whole lot more :D

FYI...This is a quote from the Panasonic 2004/05 HDTV brochure. Read with your "marketing filter" on, but here is what it says about the 8 segment wheel:

"Model PT-50DL54 features a newly-developed 8-Segment Color Wheel. The 8-segment configuration allows for a pure symmetrical design for the red, blue, green, and neutral density filters, which reduces the possibility of flicker in the picture. The high speed of the color wheel - 10,800 rpm - provides a 360 Hz RGB refresh rate to reduce colr breaking for a smoother presentation. The overall design minimizes digital noise, especially in dark areas of the picture."

-I think the speed is the same as the Samsungs...not sure of the other brands...

Has anyone tried to mount their center channel on top of the Panny? I've got an Ascend 340 center that weighs in at about 20 lbs and am looking to either build or purchase a speaker stand (this one looks like it might work
http://www.btech-usa.com/bt14.html ).

My main concern is if the weight would cause any problems on the frame.

Originally posted by dingJam
FYI...This is a quote from the Panasonic 2004/05 HDTV brochure. Read with your "marketing filter" on, but here is what it says about the 8 segment wheel:

"Model PT-50DL54 features a newly-developed 8-Segment Color Wheel. The 8-segment configuration allows for a pure symmetrical design for the red, blue, green, and neutral density filters, which reduces the possibility of flicker in the picture. The high speed of the color wheel - 10,800 rpm - provides a 360 Hz RGB refresh rate to reduce colr breaking for a smoother presentation. The overall design minimizes digital noise, especially in dark areas of the picture."

-I think the speed is the same as the Samsungs...not sure of the other brands...

Hey thanks, I was wondering what the speed was. The faster the less chance for rainbows. Not that I can see one.

Originally posted by joedoe101
Agreed. Panny's HD2+ PQ is much better, then Summy's HD3 :)


and Sammys HD2+ is even better than that.

Temple dude,

when Panasonic and Samsung models are using the same chip HD2+, what makes samsung's PQ better?

Well, with Panasonic DLP, I can say it has the 8-segment color wheel to produce a better picture and Samsung has 6-segment color wheel.

Panasonic 1 - Samsung 0

Let's count :D

dnaren you have no clue what your talking about.

Just because they both use the HD2+ chip does not meen that they should be equal in PQ.

They both use different light engines and having one more color on the color wheel may hurt a set. There are many more things to take into account than just a chip and color wheel.

As for the color wheel count you are wrong again. The 85 series uses a 7 seg color wheel.

Maybe next year they will start to catch up with Sammy as for now they are not that close.

Go take a look at an 85 series set next to the Panny DLP using the same source and then talk to me. Just telling it like it is. I have seen and I am a believer. Samsung has been the leader in the DLP market for years and they still are. Other manufactures are catching up but not there yet.



Originally posted by dnaren
Temple dude,

when Panasonic and Samsung models are using the same chip HD2+, what makes samsung's PQ better?

Well, with Panasonic DLP, I can say it has the 8-segment color wheel to produce a better picture and Samsung has 6-segment color wheel.

Panasonic 1 - Samsung 0

Let's count :D

Originally posted by Temple
dnaren you have no clue what your talking about.

They both use different light engines and having one more color on the color wheel may hurt a set.

As for the color wheel count you are wrong again. The 85 series uses a 7 seg color wheel.

Why would Samsung add another color on the wheel from the previous sets if it "may hurt the set"? I think you may have "no clue what you're talking about"...

Just my 2 cents here... and I haven't totally made up my mind on which set although I must say that I'm leaning toward the Panasonic.

I've read and search this forum as well as other forums and I must say...that it seems to me the sammy DLP have more problems than the Panny. The only issue with the Panny is that their bulb burning out prematurely before the 8K or 10K hour. This was mostly reported on their LCD sets NOT the DLPs.

Can you tell which set has the better PQ? probably, if you put them right next to each other running on the same source feed. But if they're far apart, I doubt that you can. The bottom line is, do both have good PQ? the answer is yes. And with the HD2+ chip, I must think that their PQ are right up there at the top. A note, I have not seen the Pany in person yet.

What's the biggest difference? $1000 or more in price difference between the Panny and the 85 series.(2600 vs. 3900). To me, this reason is almost the clincher. While these DLP have not been out for an extended period of time, reliablity issue is still unknown.

For all these reasons, I'm leaning toward the Panny and save myself the extra $1000 for later down the road when they have a set with proven reliability and PQ.
:D :D

Originally posted by RudyMeister
Just my 2 cents here... and I haven't totally made up my mind on which set although I must say that I'm leaning toward the Panasonic.

I've read and search this forum as well as other forums and I must say...that it seems to me the sammy DLP have more problems than the Panny. The only issue with the Panny is that their bulb burning out prematurely before the 8K or 10K hour. This was mostly reported on their LCD sets NOT the DLPs.

Can you tell which set has the better PQ? probably, if you put them right next to each other running on the same source feed. But if they're far apart, I doubt that you can. The bottom line is, do both have good PQ? the answer is yes. And with the HD2+ chip, I must think that their PQ are right up there at the top. A note, I have not seen the Pany in person yet.

What's the biggest difference? $1000 or more in price difference between the Panny and the 85 series.(2600 vs. 3900). To me, this reason is almost the clincher. While these DLP have not been out for an extended period of time, reliablity issue is still unknown.

For all these reasons, I'm leaning toward the Panny and save myself the extra $1000 for later down the road when they have a set with proven reliability and PQ.
:D :D

In the last week I've seen the Panasonice DLP http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?displayTab=F&storeId=11251&catalogId=11005&itemId=71470&catGroupId=11072&modelNo=PT-50DL54&surfModel=PT-50DL54&ignoreRedirect=1 and the Samsung DLP http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLP5063WX%2fXAA side by side.

The Panny wins hands down for me. I was amazed when I saw the Panny, I really wasn't planning on looking at the Panasonic until the salesman begged me to look at what they had just got in that morning. I didn't even know Panny had a DLP until he told me. :o

SD looked way better on the Panny, and the overall PQ was better also. The price was lower and it had a better cabinet and matching stand.

In addition whild watching the Credits at the end of the movie the Samsung doesn't Scroll as well. The Samsung seemed to jump while the Panny just rolled along. He attributed this to the 8 segment colorwheel on the Panny.

The salesmen told me he was shocked when they plugged in the set that morning and saw the PQ straight out of the box. He said Samsung was their biggest DLP leader last year but he expects this Panny to take over the 50" sales in their store.

I am going back this week with my own DVD movies to sit and watch so that I can make my final decision. Salemen said I can sit there all day if I want.

You can't go wrong with the Panny especially with the price on Amazon.com :D

"when Panasonic and Samsung models are using the same chip HD2+, what makes samsung's PQ better?"

All HD2+ sets don't have the same picture quality. There is a significant difference between the Mitsubishi, Samsung, and Toshiba. I personally am leaning towards the Toshiba. Samsung wrote themselves off my list by not making a 61" tabletop version of the HD2+ chip. I haven't seen the Panasonic yet but I'm hoping it looks good. I've tend to see a trend on this board where a lot of folks lean towards a name rather than the set itself. A lot of people want a Sony and don't even give DLPs a change. A lot of folks on here will lean towards Samsung because of this is their 3rd gen models. I owned an HLN617W and I sold it to get an HD2+ set. I could care less about a brand and just want the set that had the best picture to me.

"that it seems to me the sammy DLP have more problems than the Panny."

- I would have to say that Sammy has probably has about 20 sets out there for every one Panasonic (if not more). The Sammy's have been out for a while and are available at big stores like BB, CC, and Sears. I've been waiting for a month now and no one even has the Panasonic in their system in my area yet.

Originally posted by dnaren


Well, with Panasonic DLP, I can say it has the 8-segment color wheel to produce a better picture and Samsung has 6-segment color wheel.

Let's count :D

I don't think you can read too much into the 7 vs. 8 segment wheel. I believe they both have four "colors" but the arrangement and processing is obviously a bit different. As someone else said, the rest of the light engine and the video processing all plays a part in the picture quality. I admit I am slightly intrigued by the "10-bit" processing that Panasonic touts with this DLP, which is supposed to help limit false contouring...often identified as a minor issue with DLP sets.

The xx85 has a very nice picture. Samsung has indeed been doing a nice job with dlps over the past few years and has this as an experience base. I also think that the Panasonic has a nice picture. Don't forget that this is also Panasonic's second shot at DLP as well...I gather that their first shot had some issues. Experience sometimes is relavent sometimes it isn't...real hard to say.

I have given up trying to determine (especially from these forums) which picture is the "best"...opinions vary all over the place. Even my "eye" tells me different things when I see these sets in different places. The bottom line is to find a picture you like at a price point you are comfortable with. For me, I don't think I can see enough difference between the xx85 and other dlp HD2+ sets to justify the extra cost, regardless of which one is "better". Someone else may be able to justify the extra cost easily...which is fine. We all just want a nice set in our home.

Ben

Makes sense Rudy.

Lets not get this thread into an adolescent p*ssing contest, I'm sure most of us are interested in the merits of the Panny here, I'm more than capable of searching for the thread on Samsungs if that is what I'm interested in, but I'm not. More info from the Panny owners would be nice, less "mine is better than yours" would be even better. Temple and Dnaren, review the model, or if you need to prove who has the bigger d*ck swap email addresses and do it offline. :)

On a different note, caboman, did you get your set from Abe's yet? Any insight into dealing with them and what do you think of the set?

I just want to add that at my local sears store (I have to pay for school somehow) we recieved this model (50") and I must say that I'm impressed with the model. I was not a big fan of panny tv product, but I've done a 180 with this DLP.


I'd like to see the lamp life before I jump on this (Floor model next year
;) )

Samsung 5085 DLP is not off my list yet. I am just trying to get more information and my apprroach is not good i guess :)

One thing I find lacking in Panasonic model is PC connectivity in PIP mode. I like the pedestal look/form/shape od Samsung's DLP. There are 2 negative points:

1. price and
2. Pixelation (More than any other display model at BB and CC)

I like Panasonic because it has the same PQ, if not better, and it is $1000 less. I also have a home theater system from Panasonic so, I am biased and leaning towards Panasonic :D

Originally posted by EMAGDNIM
I just want to add that at my local sears store (I have to pay for school somehow) we recieved this model (50") and I must say that I'm impressed with the model. I was not a big fan of panny tv product, but I've done a 180 with this DLP.


I'd like to see the lamp life before I jump on this (Floor model next year
;) )

I don't understand why Sears in Canada would carry a different product than Sears in the U.S. specifically here in Atlanta, GA.

I went to a sears store and asked the salesman if they'll be getting the Panny DLP and he said no...all you see on the floor rihgt now is all that we'll be carrying this year.

Unless he doesn't know what he's talking about, I would tend to get the set from a local Sears store than mail ordering it. sears usually has a pretty competitive price.

Hmmm...I don't know why he would say that. I've got a stock assourtment for the next few months so I can tell you what "WE" are going to recieve at my store...and that should be the same for all of Ontario.

I'm sure you'll see it pop up soon...

Originally posted by dnaren
One thing I find lacking in Panasonic model is PC connectivity in PIP mode.
I totally agree. I just really don't understand why they did this. I'm going to try an ATI DVI-Component dongle and see how the PC looks through component. Hopefully it still looks great and that way the split screen will work. The only bad thing is that the PC will unnecessarily take up one of my component inputs. The PC will now be my DVD player too, so I guess it won't be too bad since my other DVD player won't need the input anymore.

On a separate note, anybody know of a component switcher that won't break the bank? I just want it for PS2, GC, and XBox so it doesn't have to be totally HDTV high quality.

Ed

Originally posted by crbaldwin
Why would Samsung add another color on the wheel from the previous sets if it "may hurt the set"? I think you may have "no clue what you're talking about"...

Think again!!! More is not always better. So you think if we have a 10 segment color wheel it will even be better. I am done talking with the likes of you and a couple others out here! You seem to have a different idea of what good PQ looks like. I have seen both and have taken Panny off of my list.

When it comes down to it and this is what I have been talking about the whole time, SAMMY looks better, and IMHO way better.

DONE!

I've had the Mitsubishi WD-52525 DLP for about a month now. I think the picture quality is excellent, however the glare is too harsh in my environment. I know I can take the screen off, but the set looks too unfinshed to me.

I've been un-patiently waiting for the Pansonic DLP since everyone on this board with the exception of Temple has given it positive reviews.

I got a call today from my local Sound Advice/Tweeter and my salesman told me the finally got a Panasonic DLP in.

To my eyes (and I did play with the settings), the Panny's Picture was on par with the Toshiba and the Samsung Kirk. It was definetly better than Samsung's HD3 models. However, the set was not side by side with the Mits. Going back and forth, the Mit's seemed a bit sharper. Definitely not enough to dis way me from the Panasonsic. The combination of a quieter fan, HD2+ chip and 8 segment color wheel and most of all ANTI-GLARE screen convinced me that the Panasonic is for me. It's $500 cheaper than the Mits without the internal ATSC Tuner and Cable Card, but I'll never use those features anyway.

I'm sold on the Panasonic. I'm picking it up tomorrow.

Originally posted by zeeeter
Makes sense Rudy.

Temple and Dnaren, review the model, or if you need to prove who has the bigger d*ck swap email addresses and do it offline. :)


If you look at my original post to this thread you will see that I was just sharing what I saw in the showroom. It is a few other people in this thread that took it to the next level. This will be my last post to this thread.

Originally posted by Temple
Think again!!! More is not always better. So you think if we have a 10 segment color wheel it will even be better. I am done talking with the likes of you and a couple others out here! You seem to have a different idea of what good PQ looks like. I have seen both and have taken Panny off of my list.

When it comes down to it and this is what I have been talking about the whole time, SAMMY looks better, and IMHO way better.

DONE!

That's fine if you think it looks better, but when you make a statement (like it is fact) that adding another segment to the wheel will hurt the set that is not "just sharing what you saw in the showroom". I was under the impression that the extra segments would improve the dithering that I saw on the older Samsung sets but I won't state it as fact like you. By your logic Samsung is going backwards in picture quality since their old sets have a 6-segment wheel and their newer ones have 7 :rolleyes: I'm glad you're done here.

Originally posted by EMAGDNIM
Hmmm...I don't know why he would say that. I've got a stock assourtment for the next few months so I can tell you what "WE" are going to recieve at my store...and that should be the same for all of Ontario.

I'm sure you'll see it pop up soon...

I hope it'll show up here in my area sometimes soon.... Sears's website does not show the DLP but DOES show the LCD model.

Gotta love the "Ignore List" in the forums :)
Filters out the chaff.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
On a separate note, anybody know of a component switcher that won't break the bank? I just want it for PS2, GC, and XBox so it doesn't have to be totally HDTV high quality.

Ed

It depends on whether you want one that is powered with a remote, or passive. The bandwidth is higher on the powered ones. But I know gamers who use both kinds and neither has any complaints. Here are the two models that seem to get the highest recommendations from my fellow gamers-

JVC JXS111 (passive)

Inday RGB4X-R (powered)

Does any one know where they are selling them in Atlanta, GA? I have been to a couple BB's , CC's, HHgregg, and Fry's and still haven't been able to see one!

F-Trader...I hope you realized that the URL on the Sammy that you posted here is for the 63 series. I believe the 63 series has the HD3 chip which is supposedly not on par with the HD2+ chip.
To make a fair comparison between the Panny DLP and the Sammy, you need to look at a sammy's 85 series or 74 series. These have the HD2+ chips.


Originally posted by F-Trader
In the last week I've seen the Panasonice DLP http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?displayTab=F&storeId=11251&catalogId=11005&itemId=71470&catGroupId=11072&modelNo=PT-50DL54&surfModel=PT-50DL54&ignoreRedirect=1 and the Samsung DLP http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLP5063WX%2fXAA side by side.

The Panny wins hands down for me. I was amazed when I saw the Panny, I really wasn't planning on looking at the Panasonic until the salesman begged me to look at what they had just got in that morning. I didn't even know Panny had a DLP until he told me. :o

SD looked way better on the Panny, and the overall PQ was better also. The price was lower and it had a better cabinet and matching stand.

In addition whild watching the Credits at the end of the movie the Samsung doesn't Scroll as well. The Samsung seemed to jump while the Panny just rolled along. He attributed this to the 8 segment colorwheel on the Panny.

The salesmen told me he was shocked when they plugged in the set that morning and saw the PQ straight out of the box. He said Samsung was their biggest DLP leader last year but he expects this Panny to take over the 50" sales in their store.

I am going back this week with my own DVD movies to sit and watch so that I can make my final decision. Salemen said I can sit there all day if I want.

You can't go wrong with the Panny especially with the price on Amazon.com :D

Originally posted by hdiesel1977
Does any one know where they are selling them in Atlanta, GA? I have been to a couple BB's , CC's, HHgregg, and Fry's and still haven't been able to see one!

I haven't found any in the Atlanta area either :mad:

Originally posted by RudyMeister
I haven't found any in the Atlanta area either :mad:

Same here. I live in the Cinci area and BB, HH Gregg, Sears, Circuit City don't even have it in their system. Funny thing is, I searched on Panasonics website for who would carry the PT50DL54 (even though I am interested in the 60" version) it said HH Gregg, Circuit City, Walmart, K-Mart, and Costco would carry it. Seems kind of odd to me. I hope they show up in my area soon. My alternative would be the Toshiba 62' version but I'm a little concered about it only having 2 component inputs and one HDMI (No one in my area will sell the Cinema series to get that extra HDMI input). I'm ready to buy but I can't get out of the waiting game. Just as a side note, does anyone know of any online authorized dealers that provide a warranty that covers the bulbs (in writing)?

Originally posted by Sonnyboy
It depends on whether you want one that is powered with a remote, or passive. The bandwidth is higher on the powered ones. But I know gamers who use both kinds and neither has any complaints. Here are the two models that seem to get the highest recommendations from my fellow gamers-

JVC JXS111 (passive)

Inday RGB4X-R (powered)
Thanks for the suggestions. That JVC one is nice. I'd probably be fine with a passive one since you have to get up and turn the system on anyway. That's more of the price I was looking for too. The Inday one is pretty nice though. Thanks again!

Ed

Originally posted by RudyMeister
I certainly am not an electronic expert but I believe by having more color segment in the wheel ... does not equate to less or no more rainbow. From what I've read, the rainbow effect is caused by the spining of the color wheel. If it can spin faster, less chance of rainbow.


Having more segments is equivalent to spinning faster! Each segment comes to a target position faster then in 7- or 6-segment wheel.

And, BTW, it doesn't have more colors, it just doubles some of them.

Originally posted by joedoe101
Is there any information on what type of deinterlacer Panasonic uses? Is it Faroudja?

Nobody knows?

Originally posted by RudyMeister
F-Trader...I hope you realized that the URL on the Sammy that you posted here is for the 63 series. I believe the 63 series has the HD3 chip which is supposedly not on par with the HD2+ chip.
To make a fair comparison between the Panny DLP and the Sammy, you need to look at a sammy's 85 series or 74 series. These have the HD2+ chips.

Yes, I did realize the Samsung had the HD3 chip.

I was very disappointed with the HD3 look. :(

The Captain Kirk model has a very nice look, perhaps the best I've seen. Too bad it's not a Tabletop and less $$$.

IMO the Panny 50" DLP is the "Best Bang for the Buck" as of today.

I was very impressed with the SD PQ, the clean look of the cabinet with the matching stand, HD2+ chip, 8 segment colorwheel, 4 speakers sound decent, and less than $[MSRP Only]

I just bought the panasonic after seeing it twice at local Now Audio Video (Tweeter) stores. It was next to the Mits, and there was no comparison. One store had the sets facing the doors, and the Mits had a horrible glare, not to mention terrible blacks. Admittedly Now claims to not do any calibration, and each set is shown straight out of the box. Then again I've never calibrated a set and I'm not paying someone to do it, so the panny wins. I'll get the avia disc and do what I can.
Has anyone found a good stand besides the recommended one? It's nice but expensive. I'm considering the tech craft 48inch ptv48. Any thoughts?

P.s. - my dreams of a "real" home theater (projector + 100inch drop down screen) died when I got engaged, so I'm forced to settle for a 50inch tv. But I'm still happy!

Three questions:

1. Everyone keeps saying the stand that comes with the Panny is expensive. Exactly how much does it costs? I even asked that question to the Tweeter salesman and he didn't know. Just said they could get it.

2. The Amazon price sounds great. However, how reliable is the Amazon shipping?

3. And in regards to Amazon, do they offer an extended warranty? What are the feelings out there in avscience land regarding purchasing extended warrantees for these babies?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

If I remember correctly, the stand locally was $599.
Nice, but not that nice.

I plan on getting an extended warranty when my tv arrives, but I'm not sure what the options are from Panasonic or Amazon

Originally posted by BobP
Three questions:

1. Everyone keeps saying the stand that comes with the Panny is expensive. Exactly how much does it costs? I even asked that question to the Tweeter salesman and he didn't know. Just said they could get it.

Thanks in advance,
Bob
Yeah, the Panasonic stand at UE was $550....definately not that nice. I paid $319 for the OmniMount stand that I got and it looks as if it were made for that TV.

Ed

My 50" panny DLP arrived yesterday, purchased at Abe's of Maine, 2 weeks ago. What can I say, its awesome. HD cable won't be installed until Friday. Good price, great shipping, couldn't ask for more. Purchased a gefen 4 way switch, need to connect my HDTV Sat. rec and Cable box. Can't wait until Sunday to watch my first HD football game on NFL sunday ticket.
I do need help with my center channel, how can I get this to sit on top of my TV. My cc is 6" wide by 24" long, the top of the tv is only 1 1/4" wide. I have seen some shelves, but the legs are only 4 inches long. If you have this set, you know what I mean. Looking for a bracket, or shelf, it won't fit under my set. Anyone know what the 3 holes are for in the back/top of the set? Any info would be appreciated.
thanks,
Scott
more info to come once HD is up and running.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
Yeah, the Panasonic stand at UE was $550....definately not that nice. I paid $319 for the OmniMount stand that I got and it looks as if it were made for that TV.

It will cost you $499 +, it looks good but doesn't do much for the price.

Ed

[Post deleted for pricing and dealer link]

I emailed amazon regarding the description of the built-in tuner. I thought maybe alerting them to the fact that they are not exactly sellng what is described...heck, maybe they would knock it down a couple $ more. Here is their response.......

"Thank you for bringing this to our attention. We will certainly
research the possible problem concerning the specifications listed
and implement the best possible solution. Any changes will appear
online as soon as we can possibly get it there.

Thanks for your patience. We appreciate your help in keeping our
catalog accurate and for shopping at Amazon.com.


Best regards,

Kyle Hughes
Electronics and Photo Catalog Department
Amazon.com, Inc."




it appears the description has now been changed....still an awesome price though.....

now the price has changed too :(

Originally posted by terfmop
now the price has changed too :(

It's listed at MSRP even if you added it to the shopping cart. I believe this is a function of their webmaster that is in the process of updating the description of the unit and in the process not listing the discounted price.

Just a simple oversight... I hope ;)

Well...at my Sears store its $[MSRP Only] CND and the Stand is comming in at $799 :eek:

Now it WAS $[MSRP Only] and Panasonic had a price drop with a lot of their higher end models (LCDs, DLP and Plasmas)...

but this weekend we're selling the TV with stand for $[MSRP Only] CND:) (I believe)

The deal via Amazon is currently discontinued and it is listed at full MSRP via Vann's. I've seen Amazon do this in the past.. sometimes they will re list the item at " their price" but sometimes the sweet deal was for a limited time only. No doubt the earlier price was a steal for those who have seen the set and liked it. I'm still waiting for a local retailer to at least display it!

Originally posted by caboman
My 50" panny DLP arrived yesterday, purchased at Abe's of Maine, 2 weeks ago. What can I say, its awesome. HD cable won't be installed until Friday. Good price, great shipping, couldn't ask for more. Purchased a gefen 4 way switch, need to connect my HDTV Sat. rec and Cable box. Can't wait until Sunday to watch my first HD football game on NFL sunday ticket.
I do need help with my center channel, how can I get this to sit on top of my TV. My cc is 6" wide by 24" long, the to of the tv is only 1 1/4" wide. I have seen some shelves, but the legs are only 4 inches long. If you have this set, you know what I mean. Looking for a bracket, or shelf, it won't fit under my set. Anyone know what the 3 holes are for in the back/top of the set? Any info would be appreciated.
thanks,
Scott
more info to come once HD is up and running.

well if the deal at amazon is gone...abe's seem alright ...caboman didn't seem to have any complaints about his experience with abe's

I was about to pull the trigger on amazon deal tonite. But damn!

Lets hope there will be a powerbuy on this set.

J

Is the deal at amazon no longer available because they're out of stock?

[MSRP Only and Dont post the dealer link!] shipping for the PT-50DLD54. Spam blocking policy won't let me post the URL (I'm new here), but if I were ready to pull the trigger, this would be a tempting deal.

Hey guys. First post. I have been doing research for a couple of weeks now and have been going back and forth as far as choosing a tv. However, the PT-50dld54 is looking more and more like it is going to be my choice. It may not be the best tv with the most features, but it is the best bang for the buck. I plan on upgrading in a couple of years anyway so I figured this set would tide me over. My sitting position is 11 feet away. Anyone else with the 50 inch sit that far away. Would the 60 inch be a better option for that viewing distance? thanks

Go 60" if you can afford it. I have a 50" from 7' away, and it would be too small for movies, except that I'm planning on moving it to the bedroom in less than a year. For movies, I'm going to get a front projector.

For casual TV, don't go higher than 60". The first thing I happened to see on my 50" was Oprah's head filling the screen and it scarred me for life.

Originally posted by lel4866
Go 60" if you can afford it. I have a 50" from 7' away, and it would be too small for movies, except that I'm planning on moving it to the bedroom in less than a year. For movies, I'm going to get a front projector.

For casual TV, don't go higher than 60". The first thing I happened to see on my 50" was Oprah's head filling the screen and it scarred me for life.

The 50" is too small from 7' away? WOW!!....this will be my first HDTV and I'll be watching mostly SD with some HD and lots of DVD. My sitting position will be around 7' to 9'.

[Post removed]

Originally posted by Minja


[Pricing and dealer info deleted]

YOP!!! Like I said earlier...I think their webmaster was updating the discription regarding the ATSC tuner...and probably just did not finish the entire display, or it was temporarily out of stock.

EDIT - Dont NOT post pricing other than MSRP or links to dealer sites!]


. Happy Hunting! :) Bob

Anyone know

[Edit- this is not a pricing site]


Thanks ;)

Here is the URL of a speaker stand that has longer legs.
http://www.btech-usa.com/bt14.html

I tried the Sanus stand, but its legs were too short. I haven't tried this one yet. I did e-mail the company about whether it would work and they replied that it was intended only for CRT based TVs. Don't know if the weight of the speaker would have any negative impact on the top of the screen.


Originally posted by caboman
My 50" panny DLP arrived yesterday, purchased at Abe's of Maine, 2 weeks ago. What can I say, its awesome. HD cable won't be installed until Friday. Good price, great shipping, couldn't ask for more. Purchased a gefen 4 way switch, need to connect my HDTV Sat. rec and Cable box. Can't wait until Sunday to watch my first HD football game on NFL sunday ticket.
I do need help with my center channel, how can I get this to sit on top of my TV. My cc is 6" wide by 24" long, the to of the tv is only 1 1/4" wide. I have seen some shelves, but the legs are only 4 inches long. If you have this set, you know what I mean. Looking for a bracket, or shelf, it won't fit under my set. Anyone know what the 3 holes are for in the back/top of the set? Any info would be appreciated.
thanks,
Scott
more info to come once HD is up and running.

Originally posted by ButchW
Here is the URL of a speaker stand that has longer legs.
http://www.btech-usa.com/bt14.html

I tried the Sanus stand, but its legs were too short. I haven't tried this one yet. I did e-mail the company about whether it would work and they replied that it was intended only for CRT based TVs. Don't know if the weight of the speaker would have any negative impact on the top of the screen.

thanks,
I might have to build something myself, I would install a shelf to the wall, but my tv is fit into a corner and the speaker would be to far back.
Scott Caboman

For those who are planning to buy PT-50DL54 f
[Edit - Pricing and dealer link deleted]

Read and practice this!!! Thank you
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=300703

[Edit - We dont post where to buy]

..maybe a DVI/HDMI cable!! This would be my first HDTV.........maybe I should I pull the trigger....ARGh.

I noticed some ghosting when watching the NFL game of the week on Directv, using my HD Samsung receiver and HDMI connection. The close up shots were perfect but when the shot was zoom out, like an overhead shot, the picture showed ghosts (blury). I was using the VIVID picture when viewing this program. ANy ideas how to calibrate this fine machine.
Caboman

Originally posted by terfmop
t....maybe a DVI/HDMI cable!! This would be my first HDTV.........maybe I should I pull the trigger....ARGh.

Are you sure about "FREE Super Saver Shipping"?. I don't see it for this TV

Originally posted by Panny50
I’ve been reading posts on this forum for some time deciding between the various DLP projection sets. At lot of the information has been very useful so I though I’d share my observations on the set that I finally settled on – the Panasonic PT-50DL54.

First I spent a lot of time comparing PQ on the Mit52, Samsung Kirk, Toshiba 52, JVC and the Panny50. I was only interested in the HD2+ chip sets. The Mit52 and the Samsung had a very high contrast picture that proved very tiring to my eyes after 15 min or so of watching, the JVC seemed to bright and colorful for my taste.. The most “comfortable” pictures were from the Toshiba and the Panny. I was finally able to see the Panny DLP and the Toshiba DLP side by side at the F*y’s in Fremont (Bay Area) and the Panny won out due to the purity and realism of the colors (The Toshiba had to much red push and did not have the “3D image depth that the Panny sported).

I’ve had the Panny for about a week now ; with a Samsung HD Direct TV Satellite tuner using a DVI to HDMI cable, Denon DVD-1600, and Replay TV PVR. I performed an Avia calibration and this did improve the picture. I was surprised at how sensitive the set is to the correct settings. I previously owned a Sony 34” HD XBR and it was not nearly as sensitive to the picture settings. The picture settings after calibration were:

Standard Picture Setting
Color 27
Tint 29
Brightness 35
Picture 55
Sharpness 30

Cinema Picture Setting
Color 24
Tint 29
Brightness 31
Picture between 40 and 50 (little effect on other settings)
Sharpness 22


The picture quality from the HD channels is so exquisite and realistic that I could reach into and behind the picture if the darn screen didn’t get in the way. The picture quality on SD is really BAD. My complaint on the SD picture is a shimmering ghost that surrounded most high contrast image areas on the screen (like football players on a field). My old Sony XBR HD set was much more forgiving; an excellent HD picture and handled SD content very well…. But now for the good news…..

Today I went back to M* HiFi and had the sale person put an SD picture feed from the Samsung Direct TV tuner on all of the display sets in the store (an SD college football game); the picture was as BAD on all the sets; even the Plasma and the LCD projection sets….. CRT sets handled the SD picture fairly well. So I guess if I want good HD, I have to put up with bad SD…… The sales person agreed to hook up a pre-scalar between the Samsung tuner and an HD set to see if this improved the SD picture. The sales person said he would set this up in the next week or so and let me know if it helped…..if it does it may be worth the $$$$.

All In all, I am extremely pleased with this set and would recommend it to anyone. The picture quality is as good as it was on my 34” Sony XBR HD set, only much bigger. I am planning to get the Direct TV HD recorder soon (I’m resisting as I only use a cell phone and don’t want to spring for a land line just to set up and use the HD recorder) and an up-converting DVD player (likely the Denon’s that just came into stock at the M*Hi Fi store today).

What settings are you using with the VIVID picture, I have ghosts during the HD football games. I was a little surprised to see him on HD, maybe it the setting on my Samsug, what do you have your resolution set at.
Caboman

Originally posted by Kclone
Hey guys. First post. I have been doing research for a couple of weeks now and have been going back and forth as far as choosing a tv. However, the PT-50dld54 is looking more and more like it is going to be my choice. It may not be the best tv with the most features, but it is the best bang for the buck. I plan on upgrading in a couple of years anyway so I figured this set would tide me over. My sitting position is 11 feet away. Anyone else with the 50 inch sit that far away. Would the 60 inch be a better option for that viewing distance? thanks
Welcome to the board and the Panasonic thread!

I am also sitting about 11' away...actually a little more. I have the 50" and it's really nice at that distance. I'm sure the 60" would be a perfect match for 11' though. I just couldn't wait for it and didn't really want to spend the extra money. The 50" is perfectly fine for me for now.

Ed

Originally posted by F-Trader
A
Thanks ;)

I know that our return policy is 30 days (I work at sears part time).

The Extended warrenty can go from 2-5 years. And after its down you can still extend it further. The warrenty does NOT cover the bulbs.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention that its FULL parts and labour on the warrenty. If there is 3 service calls for your tv for the same part/problem, they will repleace it. (thats how it is here anyways ;) )

Originally posted by EMAGDNIM
I know that our return policy is 30 days (I work at sears part time).

The Extended warrenty can go from 2-5 years. And after its down you can still extend it further. The warrenty does NOT cover the bulbs.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention that its FULL parts and labour on the warrenty. If there is 3 service calls for your tv for the same part/problem, they will repleace it. (thats how it is here anyways ;) )

I called my local Sears and they don't have it in stock nor is it in the system.

I checked online and it's not their either.

I noticed your from Canada, maybe that's it. :confused:

I've seen the 50" model in a couple stores now and love it, but given my setup, I think I'd love the 60" even more. I'm sure this has been discussed, but does anyone know when these are going to be available? The guy I talked to at Magnolia said November/December, but I think I've heard other reports.. Thanks.

I've been doing all my research into TV and haven't paid much attention to the 'upscaling" DVD players. Can someone reccomend one for me, or things to look for in such a player? Also, what are the names of the calibration DVDs that can be ordered?

To All Members:

Do not post pricing other than MSRP! Do not post links to dealers sites. Do not ask who as the best price or post what you paid including receipt .

PLEASE read these rules and the others posted at the top of the forum.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=300703

Thank you for your cooperation!

I finally pull the trigger on panasonic along with 4 years warranty. Could not wait any longer as I have been looking to buy one since 2002. It is arriving next week. I bought it from J and R.

My first choice was Sammy HLP5674. I could not wait till next year, and secondly 6 segment colour wheel was not very comforting. I love the thin bezel and no side speekers. Oh! well, I guess I will have to live with the side speakers now.

J

Originally posted by dnaren
For those who are planning to buy PT-50DL54 from

[Edit - Pricing and dealer link deleted]

Read and practice this!!! Thank you


Thanks !!! Your post (before it was edited) saved me $42 !!!!

Anyone know how to get into the service menu yet?

Ed

So does it have builtin HD Tuner or not ?

Some websites claim that it has a builtin tuner.
Panasonic website doesn't say anything about tuner.

Also I cant find any information about the PT-50DLD54 (which is supposed to be the one with HD Tuner) anywhere on either the panasonic site or on the web. All the searchs for DLD model leads back to DL model.

Pulled the trigger this morning before it went back to $MSRP price. Now the wait begins.

I'm thinking to buy the SIR-T451 when its available if this TV doesn't have the builtin HD tuner.

Thanks
JtD

jv59,

I'm doin the same thing. Couldn't wait for the Samsung 56 so I orderd the panny instead.

PT-50DL54 does NOT have built-in HD tuner

You can get the official manual from http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/PT60DL54.PDF

Well, I just made the plunge and bought OnLine and saved substantial $$$$ over any of the local big name dealers in my area. Bought the TV from one dealer and the Panosonic stand (# TY50DL54K) from another dealer. What made my mind up on this TV was the HD2+ Chip, 8 Segment high RPM Color Wheel, low price, and good reviews on this forum. Also Panasonic's reputation and long standing presents in the consumer electronics industry.

I want to thank all who took the time to post their reviews of the PT-50DL54, which made me feel I had made a good decision. Now comes the fun part. First HDTV, and I am a little nervous about getting it set up properly. Thanks again. :) - Bob

Originally posted by JohnTheDoe
So does it have builtin HD Tuner or not ?

Some websites claim that it has a builtin tuner.
Panasonic website doesn't say anything about tuner.

Also I cant find any information about the PT-50DLD54 (which is supposed to be the one with HD Tuner) anywhere on either the panasonic site or on the web. All the searchs for DLD model leads back to DL model.

Pulled the trigger this morning before it went back to $MSRP price. Now the wait begins.

I'm thinking to buy the SIR-T451 when its available if this TV doesn't have the builtin HD tuner.

Thanks
JtD
Yeah, the PT-50DL54 is the one without the tuner which we all have. The PT-50DL54x is the one with the built in tuners which hasn't been released yet.

Ed

Originally posted by F-Trader
I called my local Sears and they don't have it in stock nor is it in the system.

I checked online and it's not their either.

I noticed your from Canada, maybe that's it. :confused:

thats odd, we carry both the 50" and the 60" models...I can't tell you why it has not reached your area yet...:confused:

Are you guys getting the warranty thrown in when you make your deal or are you paying the 200 plus dollars. I don't want to beat up the dealer to bad but I want to make sure I get the best deal possible. Is there anything else I should ask for when making the deal? Thanks

Originally posted by Kclone
Are you guys getting the warranty thrown in when you make your deal or are you paying the 200 plus dollars. I don't want to beat up the dealer to bad but I want to make sure I get the best deal possible. Is there anything else I should ask for when making the deal? Thanks
I paid for my waranty, but he took a lot off of the TV, the stand, and threw in cables. I'd say do whatever they are willing to do. It never hurts to ask and if they just can't do it, they'll tell you so.

Ed

I just went in to UE and made my deal. I feel relieved to finally get the process rolling. They did not have any in stock because they sold out. It is their best selling DLP right now. Even so, I should get it next week sometime. I paid 300.00 for a 3 year warranty and a couple hundred dollars in tax which ended up getting the set up to the MSRP price anyway. Still, I think it is the best bang for the buck. Anyone have advice for the best kind of connection cables for SD picture? Thanks

Panasonic owners,

Please post pictures of your setup.

Thanks,
jv59

I have researching this stuff for a while like so many of the other readers. I finally decided on the 50 inch Panny. I could not wait months for the 60 inch. I got an okay deal at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon and purchased a 4 year warranty. I am having delivered on Monday.

I have a high def DirecTV dish, but no high def receiver yet. I also do not have a DVD player or recorder. Is there any equipment recommedations. I was debating on getting the high def TIVO receiver and a Pansonic DVD recorder xx55.

Any more updates on the best way of hooking up a PC to this Panny. FaSSt2001, you seem to be the furthest along on this topic. Any latest advice?

I downloaded the manual and it says that if you use the RGB inputs you can set your PC display mode to XGA but it will scale the data and display at 800x600. That doesn't sound very good. I'm wondering if this is true or is it just a leftover blurb from their CRT projection TV manuals.

Sounds like the HDMI connection is the best bet. FaSSt2001, you seemed to indicate that the PQ was good. Does it look like 1:1 pixel mapping or is there any sign of some processing going on like the reports on the Toshiba DLPs (does the sharpness adjustment do anything etc.). Also would be interested if anyone has tried to use Powerstrip to eliminate overscan and if so what X and Y pixel values they came up with.

Okay that's enough questions for my first post!

-dave

Just had an interesting conversation with a salesman at a local retailer and he said, and I might add with a lot of authority and satisfaction, that Panasonic will only warranty TVs that are sold from dealers and that the Companies on the WEB are not dealers and the TVs are being sold with out a Panasonic warranty. Anybody have any comments on this? :confused: - Bob

Remember it is in the retailers best interest to convince you of that.

Some companies are very particular about what online companies they call "authorized dealers". I don't think Panasonic is quite as particular as someone like Denon or Pioneer Elite. Certainly some of the online vendors operate in the "gray" market arena and will not qualify for the manufacturer's warranty. However, many of the online "dealers" specifially state that the manufacturer's warranty is included. Look for that type of wording. In fact, many state that if something goes wrong you have to work directly with the manufacturer to address problems rather than through them as the "seller". A B&M store will typically give you more options for returns and service calls.

There is a lot of discussion about B&M vs. online stores and the "gray" market sales. A few searches of the forums should turn up some information.

Ben

Originally posted by kjoe
Any more updates on the best way of hooking up a PC to this Panny. FaSSt2001, you seem to be the furthest along on this topic. Any latest advice?

I downloaded the manual and it says that if you use the RGB inputs you can set your PC display mode to XGA but it will scale the data and display at 800x600. That doesn't sound very good. I'm wondering if this is true or is it just a leftover blurb from their CRT projection TV manuals.

Sounds like the HDMI connection is the best bet. FaSSt2001, you seemed to indicate that the PQ was good. Does it look like 1:1 pixel mapping or is there any sign of some processing going on like the reports on the Toshiba DLPs (does the sharpness adjustment do anything etc.). Also would be interested if anyone has tried to use Powerstrip to eliminate overscan and if so what X and Y pixel values they came up with.

Okay that's enough questions for my first post!

-dave
Well, right now I have my PC hooked up through the HDMI. It looks like 1:1 pixel mapping to me. The text is absolutely crystal clear and everything looks great except for the overcan, of course. I tried to play with Powerstrip a little to eliminate the overscan, but just gave up for now. It doesn't bother me too much.

That is true about the VGA input. It converts everything to 800x600. All you get is a 4:3 (or 4:4 - whatever a computer monitor is) sized desktop with black bars on both sides. This is very disappointing to me along with no split screen on VGA input.

I'm sure the overscan can be tweaked out and I'll try some more at a later time.

EDIT: Also, I didn't notice any difference between having the sharpness at 0 or 60 (or whatever the high number was) on any inputs. I keep mine at 0 all the way around.

Ed

Please help -- What is "Progressive Scan Doubler"

This is my first post -- possibly someone can help me out. I am very interested in this set but I would like to understand more clearly one feature that is listed in the specifications for this set on the Panasonic web site -- "Progressive Scan Doubler"

What is this -- I understand what progressive scan is in converting 480i tp 480p but this takes place at the DVD player. Does this feature turn 480p into something higher -- like 720p?

Please explain.

Originally posted by msmith8228
Please help -- What is "Progressive Scan Doubler"

This is my first post -- possibly someone can help me out. I am very interested in this set but I would like to understand more clearly one feature that is listed in the specifications for this set on the Panasonic web site -- "Progressive Scan Doubler"

What is this -- I understand what progressive scan is in converting 480i tp 480p but this takes place at the DVD player. Does this feature turn 480p into something higher -- like 720p?

Please explain.
The progressive scan doubler in the TV is the same thing that's in a progressive DVD player. Which one does it better is up to your eyes. Some TV's will do the conversion better than some DVD players, so it's best to try outputting from your DVD player both ways to see which converter does a better job. I'd think the one in the TV would be superior unless you had high scale DVD player with a Farjouda (sp?) chip or something. I could be wrong on that though...me, I let my TV do it.

Ed

I've also been playing with getting my PC attached with the best picture and least (or preferably no) overscan. I'm attaching using the ATI DVI-to-component plug to send component signals out from a Radeon 9600. The picture is very high quality but overscanned at 1280x720. I have not yet managed to Powerstrip out the overscanning but haven't tried very long yet. Reducing the resolution (1152x648 is one of the default options from ATI) fixes the overscan problem but then of course also loses 10% of the dots. I'm still working on it.

Fasst

I was hoping you could do me a big favor andtake apicture of the tv from the side/backside...The reason I ask is because I just ordered the V but realized my cutout for the TV is only 54" in the wall (the TV is 56" wide)...So i wanted to know how much of theTV needs to stick out of the cutout...I'm hoping the TVspeakers are "thin" and nothing is behind the sides of the TV....Thanks in advance for any help.

I may have to cancel the TV if the TVhas to stick out 6"....

Originally posted by grandall
I've also been playing with getting my PC attached with the best picture and least (or preferably no) overscan. I'm attaching using the ATI DVI-to-component plug to send component signals out from a Radeon 9600. The picture is very high quality but overscanned at 1280x720. I have not yet managed to Powerstrip out the overscanning but haven't tried very long yet. Reducing the resolution (1152x648 is one of the default options from ATI) fixes the overscan problem but then of course also loses 10% of the dots. I'm still working on it.
Sweet! So, the picture looks good through the ATI dongle? Does it look close to the DVI PQ? I ordered the dongle this week and should have it Monday and was hoping it would look good. Have you tried the split screen with TV and the PC yet? Does that look decent? That's really the only reason I'm going this route right now. I'm also definately interested in a custom resolution you get to work if you find one.

Ed

Originally posted by j0sep4
Fasst

I was hoping you could do me a big favor andtake apicture of the tv from the side/backside...The reason I ask is because I just ordered the V but realized my cutout for the TV is only 54" in the wall (the TV is 56" wide)...So i wanted to know how much of theTV needs to stick out of the cutout...I'm hoping the TVspeakers are "thin" and nothing is behind the sides of the TV....Thanks in advance for any help.

I may have to cancel the TV if the TVhas to stick out 6"....
Unfortunately, my camera is broken so I have to borrow my moms. I wouldn't be able to get it until Saturday. If I remember correctly, the speakers are pretty thin. I believe the thickness of the edge is only about a couple inches and then it has an inch or two inwards before the back starts forming. I'm not positive on this though until I get home, but maybe someone that's home can give you more accurate measurements or pictures now. I think it would probably fit in your cutout all the way to the back of the speakers and only that two or so inches of the speaker width would stick out. I'm not sure how that would affect the ventilation though.

Ed

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
Sweet! So, the picture looks good through the ATI dongle? Does it look close to the DVI PQ? I ordered the dongle this week and should have it Monday and was hoping it would look good. Have you tried the split screen with TV and the PC yet? Does that look decent? That's really the only reason I'm going this route right now. I'm also definately interested in a custom resolution you get to work if you find one.

Ed
The picture looks very good so far (I've only had one evening to play with it). Text is very clear and readable. I haven't tried gaming or fooling around with split screen or anything yet but hope to try this evening. I also put an HDTV tuner card in the PC and used it to watch over-the-air HDTV last evening and it looked fantastic. My HD cable is supposed to be installed tomorrow; I'll try comparing the quality of the HD cable through the HDMI to the OTA HD via the ATI dongle and component.

If I find anything else interesting as I play with it this weekend I'll post updates. I'm still getting everything hooked up the way I want. Right now the component cable I'm using is just a few inches too short, so when it's plugged into the PC it's nice and taut and several inches off the ground, so that it makes a very effective tripwire if I forget it's there. That needs some fixing.

Originally posted by grandall
The picture looks very good so far (I've only had one evening to play with it). Text is very clear and readable. I haven't tried gaming or fooling around with split screen or anything yet but hope to try this evening. I also put an HDTV tuner card in the PC and used it to watch over-the-air HDTV last evening and it looked fantastic. My HD cable is supposed to be installed tomorrow; I'll try comparing the quality of the HD cable through the HDMI to the OTA HD via the ATI dongle and component.

If I find anything else interesting as I play with it this weekend I'll post updates. I'm still getting everything hooked up the way I want. Right now the component cable I'm using is just a few inches too short, so when it's plugged into the PC it's nice and taut and several inches off the ground, so that it makes a very effective tripwire if I forget it's there. That needs some fixing.
What HD card did you buy? I was thinking about that too since Comcast is so slow on getting all our locals in HD. I was thinking of the ATI HDTV Wonder, but don't really know too much about the other ones out there.

Ed

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
... Have you tried the split screen with TV and the PC yet? Does that look decent? That's really the only reason I'm going this route right now. I'm also definately interested in a custom resolution you get to work if you find one.

Ed

Sorry to disappoint you.. but, you can't use this TV as a PC dispaly in split screen mode.

Originally posted by dnaren
Sorry to disappoint you.. but, you can't use this TV as a PC dispaly in split screen mode.
Ahhhhh, but you can....if you're using the ATI DVI-Component dongle and use the component inputs. I'm aware of no split screen in VGA or HDMI modes, but this is a last ditch effort to have split screen.

Ed

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
What HD card did you buy? I was thinking about that too since Comcast is so slow on getting all our locals in HD. I was thinking of the ATI HDTV Wonder, but don't really know too much about the other ones out there.

Ed
I got the DVICO Fusion-HDTV-T this time around. It's the least expensive of the options I've seen. I looked at the ATI card, but there have been a lot of negative reviews of the board and/or its software, so I decided to pass. I've also got an MDP-100 in one of my other computers, which works OK, and the MDP-120 which now replaces it is by all accounts better. The Fusion gets great reception. I seem to get 100% signal strength on five of the six networks that I have as favorites and varying 40%-90% on the sixth. The MDP-100 reception was much less reliable but still OK (although again I believe the MDP-120 has improved reception).

I can't really offer a wholehearted endorsement of the Fusion after a single night of use, but it installed quickly and painlessly and looks great so far, and the price is very good too. I'll put it through more of its paces this weekend. I've got the same Comcast issue here. They actually have all of the local channels on HD except for the Viacom-owned ones, CBS and UPN. Those ones seem to have a lot of HD programming, though, so I figured I should get the card to make sure I could get everything (and possibly if I want to make recordings).

If I get any more thoughts after a weekend of use I'll post again.

I just bought the PT-50DL54 and it's coming next week. I also bought the Panasonic stand. What I need is someone to measure the total height of the TV and stand together. I can't find that information. I also need the distance in inches between the shelves on the stand. I need to know if my 9" high center speaker will fit. Thanks in advance!

I just ordered my Panny yesterday and be delivered next week. J and r web site has withdth 55.7 inches. I am getting following stand for Panny DLP.

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/ref=br_1_11/602-8929732-1210248?%5Fencoding=UTF8&asin=B00008PC40

I will post pictures when TV arrives.

Originally posted by Red Dwarf
I just bought the PT-50DL54 and it's coming next week. I also bought the Panasonic stand. What I need is someone to measure the total height of the TV and stand together. I can't find that information. I also need the distance in inches between the shelves on the stand. Thanks in advance!

J&R web site has width 55.7 inches and depth 17.x inches. Check J&R site. Please post pictures once TV is setup. Enjoy!

Guys,

I am expecting my set next week.
I want to connect my pc to the TV. Graphic card (9600pro) in my PC has a DVI out. Also I already have a DVI-male to DVI Male cable. I guess I need some sort an HDMI adaptor.

What kind of DVI-HDMI adpator? Is it Female DVI to Male HDMI?

I am looking for cheap and decent solution.

Thanks,
jv59

You can buy a 9' HDMI to DVI cable direct from Panasonic for $39 plus shipping. Go to http://www.pasc.panasonic.com/epartr/ and order part # TY-SCH03DH. It was the best deal I could find.

Originally posted by jv59
Guys,

I am expecting my set next week.
I want to connect my pc to the TV. Graphic card (9600pro) in my PC has a DVI out. Also I already have a DVI-male to DVI Male cable. I guess I need some sort an HDMI adaptor.

What kind of DVI-HDMI adpator? Is it Female DVI to Male HDMI?

I am looking for cheap and decent solution.

Thanks,
jv59
That ought to work, but since you've got an ATI graphics card it might be cheaper to get the ATI DVI-to-component adapter and then connect via component cables. That way you wouldn't use the single HDMI port for the PC if there's anything else you might want to connect there (such as the HD television input). The ATI adapter is also slightly cheaper than the DVI-to-HDMI adapters I've seen.

Originally posted by jv59
Guys,

I am expecting my set next week.
I want to connect my pc to the TV. Graphic card (9600pro) in my PC has a DVI out. Also I already have a DVI-male to DVI Male cable. I guess I need some sort an HDMI adaptor.

What kind of DVI-HDMI adpator? Is it Female DVI to Male HDMI?

I am looking for cheap and decent solution.

Thanks,
jv59
Yeah, I would either do like grandall said and get the dongle or search for seller stsi.com on ebay. I bought my 6' DVI-HDMI cable ($18.95 + shipping) and a VGA cable from them. The cables are really heavy duty and seem like excellent quality.

Ed

Originally posted by j0sep4
Fasst

I was hoping you could do me a big favor andtake apicture of the tv from the side/backside...The reason I ask is because I just ordered the V but realized my cutout for the TV is only 54" in the wall (the TV is 56" wide)...So i wanted to know how much of theTV needs to stick out of the cutout...I'm hoping the TVspeakers are "thin" and nothing is behind the sides of the TV....Thanks in advance for any help.

I may have to cancel the TV if the TVhas to stick out 6"....
I checked my TV and the side, including the speaker enclosure, is about 3" thick. It then starts slanting inward to form the back of the TV. It would probably stick out about four inches or so from your cutout.

Ed

Caboman... to answer your question about AVIA settings using the VIVID picture on the Panny -- The short answer is that the AVIA calibration did not seem to make significant changes on the VIVID picture. I figure the base VIVID picture is near the top of all the brightness/contrast ranges and that you are not able to see subtle differences to calibrate the set.... I only use this in a bright room and set it so it looks the best depending on the material (hockey etc)...its not for watching movies and such.

The outline ghosts you are seeing on HD is likely due to the poor feed from the networks and/or high compression used in the broadcast and not the TV. If the TV is being fed a 720P input, it isn't using its own scaler to up or down convert. My Samsung is set to 720P output. On D*TV I've noticed that HDnet is usually very good on HD but Bravo HD+ tends to have compression artifacts on some programs. I plan to check out the external scalers to see if they make a big picture difference (rather than just a big $$$$ difference); also plan on getting a Denon 2910 DVD with a 720p output.

Burn-in -- One other thing I've done in the three weeks that I had the set is to "burn it in" so that any "infant mortality failures" in any of the electronic circuits show up during the initial 30 day return period. I only turn the set off for 1 hour a day (to temperature cycle it); leaving it on for 23 hours. This should give me over 600 operating hours and help weed out any infant mortality failures that may be lurking in the electronic components and may not show up under lighter use conditions. This is less than 10% of the lamp life, and I prefer to return the set for a new one during the 30day return period rather than having the set repaired if something goes wrong.

Enjoy your set….it has a great picture, with good grey scale providing a lot of detail in darker scenes. This seems to be the strength of the 8 segment wheel…. The extra dark green segment provides better resolution in grey scale (10 bit ) vs other dlps out there.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
That is true about the VGA input. It converts everything to 800x600. All you get is a 4:3 (or 4:4 - whatever a computer monitor is) sized desktop with black bars on both sides. This is very disappointing to me along with no split screen on VGA input.

Ed

I wonder if anyone has tried an X-Box via vga using that adapter that is available. I imagine that it would constrain the X-Box to 800x600 as well? BTW, I think this really sucks and is the one thing that I really don't care for on this set.

ps: oh, i just thought....i wonder if this would be something that could be addressed with a firmware update. I can't remember if this TV has a USB port on it.

Wow...7 posts in over 3 years....how prolific I am!

Thanks Fasst!

I have decided to keep my order and it's gonna look a bit ugly sticking out, but we plan to move in 9 months.

I owe you one.

Whoo hoo! The Comcast guy arrived on schedule this morning to swap out my old cable box for the HDTV box. It's connected to the Panny via the HDMI port using a DVI cable and an adapter. The picture looks fantastic. Well, there's not really a whole lot on in HDTV, particularly on a Saturday morning, but what's there looks fantastic. There's always Discovery HD Theater. The bison are entering mating season, and this year they're in high-definition!

How many watts does the PT-50DL54 draw? I was thinking about an UPS becasue of the lamp issue.

What are the current guesses as to when the 60" model is coming out?

Originally posted by jv59
Guys,

I am expecting my set next week.
I want to connect my pc to the TV. Graphic card (9600pro) in my PC has a DVI out. Also I already have a DVI-male to DVI Male cable. I guess I need some sort an HDMI adaptor.

What kind of DVI-HDMI adpator? Is it Female DVI to Male HDMI?

I am looking for cheap and decent solution.

Thanks,
jv59

I ordered my DVI->HDMI from svideo.com site. I also have ATI 9800 Pro and I going to purchase DVI to component device for ATI cards.

Originally posted by Panny50
Caboman... to answer your question about AVIA settings using the VIVID picture on the Panny -- The short answer is that the AVIA calibration did not seem to make significant changes on the VIVID picture. I figure the base VIVID picture is near the top of all the brightness/contrast ranges and that you are not able to see subtle differences to calibrate the set.... I only use this in a bright room and set it so it looks the best depending on the material (hockey etc)...its not for watching movies and such.

The outline ghosts you are seeing on HD is likely due to the poor feed from the networks and/or high compression used in the broadcast and not the TV. If the TV is being fed a 720P input, it isn't using its own scaler to up or down convert. My Samsung is set to 720P output. On D*TV I've noticed that HDnet is usually very good on HD but Bravo HD+ tends to have compression artifacts on some programs. I plan to check out the external scalers to see if they make a big picture difference (rather than just a big $$$$ difference); also plan on getting a Denon 2910 DVD with a 720p output.

Burn-in -- One other thing I've done in the three weeks that I had the set is to "burn it in" so that any "infant mortality failures" in any of the electronic circuits show up during the initial 30 day return period. I only turn the set off for 1 hour a day (to temperature cycle it); leaving it on for 23 hours. This should give me over 600 operating hours and help weed out any infant mortality failures that may be lurking in the electronic components and may not show up under lighter use conditions. This is less than 10% of the lamp life, and I prefer to return the set for a new one during the 30day return period rather than having the set repaired if something goes wrong.

Enjoy your set….it has a great picture, with good grey scale providing a lot of detail in darker scenes. This seems to be the strength of the 8 segment wheel…. The extra dark green segment provides better resolution in grey scale (10 bit ) vs other dlps out there.

Thanks, The picture is awesome now that its connected to Comcast via HDMI.
take care
Caboman

Traded my Mitsubishi WD-52525 today for the Panasonic PT-50DL54.

The main reason I got rid of the Mitsubishi was the horrible glare screen, but the Tilted screen issue bothered me as well.

I just finished calibrating this unit with DVE. My settings are pretty similar to another member who posted a few pages ago.

Standard:

Color: 28
Tint: 28
Brightness 30
Picture 50*
Sharpness 0*

* I could not accurately calibrate these settings to with the test patterns. I believe these patterns are only useful on CRT's. The numbers are my eyeballed preferences.

In my humble opinion, this set blows away the Mitsubishi. The colors are so vivid and 3D, I'm in shock. It must be the combination of the HD2+, 8 Segment Color Wheel and the 10 bit Processor.

The anti-glare screen is awesome. The set is right next to a sliding glass door, and there is no glare.

The fan noise is a little better than the Mits., but not much. The pitch is slightly deeper so it's not as noticeable.

There is no question in my mind that SD and HD both look better than the Mits.

Only problem I noticed is that the picture is chopped off a tad at the top of the screen when I used the overscan pattern. The 5% overscan patten is visible at the bottom of the screen, but not the top. There is no tilt issue like the Mits.

Has anyone found out how to get in to the Service Menu of this set? I think I can fix the overscan pretty easily with the HPOS setting if I could get in.

Played with this tv for 2 hours. I did notice the rainbow effect on a couple occasions. Also noticed that the picture was tilted down on the right side by over half an inch. I don't mean bowing, I mean the entire picture was tilted.

Originally posted by kramdens
Played with this tv for 2 hours. I did notice the rainbow effect on a couple occasions. Also noticed that the picture was tilted down on the right side by over half an inch. I don't mean bowing, I mean the entire picture was tilted.

can you take a picture of your set being tilted and post it here for us all to see?

thanks

The same procedure for the Panny Plasma's worked for the DLP. I found this in the Plasma forum...

Set sleep timer to 30 minutes
Go to cable / antenna input and switch to channel 124
Turn volume all the way down with the remote
Press down volume button on the unit itself
CHK will appear in red in the top-left corner.
Press the power button on the remote control to get into the service menu
with "CHK" displayed.
Press power on the unit itself to exit the service menu
(turns off the unit but doesn't erase your user mode settings).


I found that I needed to adjust the overscan using the H-POS and the V-POS. Not only was the top cut of slightly, but the picture was slightly chopped off on the left side as well.

Here is the before picture... (Notice the 5% overscan chopped off at top)

Here is a picture after adjusting H-POS and V-POS in the Service Menu...

MarkMSM, you had no tilt to your picture at all? I have noticed the rainbow effect in darker scenes, but very rarely. I did notice it, though. Have you?
It is not my set, but a friends, and neither of us have a digital camera.
How can tilt be corrected?

Originally posted by kramdens
MarkMSM, you had no tilt to your picture at all? I have noticed the rainbow effect in darker scenes, but very rarely. I did notice it, though. Have you?
It is not my set, but a friends, and neither of us have a digital camera.
How can tilt be corrected?
If you have a screen that's tilted like that, I would definately get it replaced. I have no tilt whatsoever in my TV. I don't see any rainbows in mine. I've actually never seen rainbows in any TV, but I don't look for them either.

Ed

Originally posted by Red Dwarf
How many watts does the PT-50DL54 draw? I was thinking about an UPS becasue of the lamp issue.
Per the user manual, it is 2.4 amps. I also got a UPS for mine. Definately worth the investment for those expensive bulbs.

Ed

Originally posted by faston
I wonder if anyone has tried an X-Box via vga using that adapter that is available. I imagine that it would constrain the X-Box to 800x600 as well? BTW, I think this really sucks and is the one thing that I really don't care for on this set.

ps: oh, i just thought....i wonder if this would be something that could be addressed with a firmware update. I can't remember if this TV has a USB port on it.

Wow...7 posts in over 3 years....how prolific I am!
I bet it would constrain it in the same way. I'd assume they could fix it with firmware or service menu adjustments. I doubt Panasonic would do anything about it because that's the way it comes and that's what it states in the manual. I really wish they would though. Maybe if enough people complained to them,, they would do something. I will....

Ed

Originally posted by MarkMSM
The same procedure for the Panny Plasma's worked for the DLP. I found this in the Plasma forum...

Set sleep timer to 30 minutes
Go to cable / antenna input and switch to channel 124
Turn volume all the way down with the remote
Press down volume button on the unit itself
CHK will appear in red in the top-left corner.
Press the power button on the remote control to get into the service menu
with "CHK" displayed.
Press power on the unit itself to exit the service menu
(turns off the unit but doesn't erase your user mode settings).


I found that I needed to adjust the overscan using the H-POS and the V-POS. Not only was the top cut of slightly, but the picture was slightly chopped off on the left side as well.

Here is the before picture... (Notice the 5% overscan chopped off at top)

Is the amount of overscan something that might be specific to each TV or is it something that it leaves the factory with? I am leaning towards the latter because it makes the most sense.

I don't have a calibration DVD and was wondering if your adjustments can be applied to my set.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
Per the user manual, it is 2.4 amps. I also got a UPS for mine. Definately worth the investment for those expensive bulbs.

Ed

I wish they would rate in watts. I x E = P or 2.4 Amps x 120 Volts = 288 Watts. I have a CRT Toshiba which is rated at 4.3 Amps or 288 watts which doesn't follow that formula. So what formula is Panasonic following? My question is the 2.4 Amps peak? or average?

Originally posted by Red Dwarf
I wish they would rate in watts. I x E = P or 2.4 Amps x 120 Volts = 288 Watts. I have a CRT Toshiba which is rated at 4.3 Amps or 288 watts which doesn't follow that formula. So what formula is Panasonic following? My question is the 2.4 Amps peak? or average?
Not sure on that one. It just lists the TVs and thier amps right next to it. I bought a CyberPower CPS725SL that is rated at 725VA/400W and I just have the TV plugged into it.

Ed

Has anybody heard anything about when or where the 60" model will be available?

We saw the 50" at the Great Indoors in Gaithersburg MD, but they checked for us and said they weren't going to be getting the 60" at all. Big disappointment. We prefer to buy local rather than online, and I don't know of any one else that might carry it in the N. VA (Baltimore/DC)area.

Thx, Kim

would like to know where/when the 60" panny dlp will be available. i'm now teetering between the panasonic 60DL54 and the samsung HLP6163. what to do, what to do...

Originally posted by kramdens
MarkMSM, you had no tilt to your picture at all? I have noticed the rainbow effect in darker scenes, but very rarely. I did notice it, though. Have you?
It is not my set, but a friends, and neither of us have a digital camera.
How can tilt be corrected?


I have no tilt at all on my Panasonic. The only issue I had was the overscan. The Geometry was OK. I have not figured out how to adjust the tilt yet. The Mits. that I exchanged this set for had counterclockwise tilt.

With regard to rainbows, I don't see them as much on this set as I did on the Mitsubishi. Due to Human "persistence of vision" and "peripheral vision", I don't see how anyone can not see rainbows once in a while on a DLP set when we move our eyes quickly across the set or blink since our brain "freezes" the image for a fraction of a second. To me, rainbows are normal.

Note on the overscan issue and the Service Menu....

A friend of mine also bought the PT-50DL54 the same day as me. He had the same overscan issue as me. I corrected his as well with the Service Menu.

A word of caution on the Service Menu. As of now, I know of no way to return the set to the factory defaults or how to exit the service menu WITHOUT saving any changes. It's very important to write down all the default settings before making any changes. I wrote mine down and will post them if requested.

Once in the Service Menu, the values are changed with the volume < > buttons. Once you've selected a setting, it's easy to make a mistake and click the Channel up/down buttons. This takes you to another setting and if you don't realize it, you may wind up changing a different setting than you intended when you click the volume <> buttons. (This happened to me).

I'm in Clearwater and was wondering where you got your panasonic dlp? Thanks.

Nedtsc,

I got the PT-50DL54 at Sound Advice on Dale Mabry & Columbus. They actually have one on display there. The rest are at the St. Pete. warehouse.

Send me a PM if you would like more information.

Does anybody know what Panasonic's policy is on stuck mirrors? Is it like Samsungs?

Tilt?

What exactly is tilt? I've seen the overscan problem with my set ( same as MarkMSM has shown), but I also have the pitcure slightly skewed... The lines for the overscan are not parallel with the edge of the TV... Can this be adjusted? Or should I exchange my set?

Does anyone know if Circuit City will be carrying these sets and when the 60" will be available? I unfortunately have to make my purchase there, and I get a different answer from every store. Would appreciate any info. Thanks

Does anyone know of a link to the dimensions for the PT-60DL54? I'm also looking for the Height of the width of base. Usually there's a spec sheet with all the specifics of the dimensions but I can't seem to find it on Panasonic's website.

On Panasonic website you have to do a search of the model number and it will bring up the info on the 60"- that is everything excet the release date. I too am wondering when it will be.

Hello all,

I am in the process of performing an ISF calibration on a Panasonic PT-50DL54 set for dangerfish who posted early on in this thread. I thought it would be helpful for current or prospective owners of this set to pass along what I have learned so far. I am trying to procure a service manual for this set, and when I have that in hand I will be able to finish the calibration and pass along more information.

I started with the HDMI input, and used a Sencore VP403 to generate test patterns. The sharpness test pattern showed that a Sharpness setting of 0 is correct for this input, vs the factory setting of 36. I tried driving it at both 1080i and 720p scan rates. The 1080i pattern lost detail in fine lines and seemed to jitter. The 720p pattern was perfect in detail and rock solid. I would recommend sending 720p video to this input.

Using the HiLo tracking test pattern, I set Picture to 60 and Brightness to 24. These are correct for this specific set, but you may not be able to use the same settings on your set. I used the SMPTE color bars and a blue filter to set Color to 25 and Tint to 27. I also checked the color decoder function with red and green filters. The red decoder was perfect, the green decoder had a small error. There may be a service menu adjustment for this, will check the service manual when I get it. Again, the Color and Tint settings are particular to this set, and may not be the exact settings for your set.

I then checked color temperature for the 3 different settings of the Color Temperature control available on this set. With Color Temp set to Warm, the set tracked at 9300 deg K, with Color Temp set to Normal the set tracked at 14000 deg K, and with Color Temp set to Cool the set tracked at 23000 deg K. I would recommend using Color Temp set to Warm, which was closest to the standard of 6500 deg K. Once I get the service manual I should be able to get the set to track at 6500 deg K.

Next I ran the Luminance vs IRE level graph to check the gamma curve. With Picture Mode set to Standard, the gamma curve was nearly a straight line and the average gamma value was 1.62 which is too low. I then tried Picture Mode set to Cinema and got an excellent gamma curve with average gamma value of 2.35 which is much better. I would recommend using the Cinema setting in most cases. I didn't even try the Vivid setting. Peak light output at 100 IRE was 27.68 foot Lamberts which is typical for a set this size.

Using the VP403 overscan test pattern, I observed between 5% and 10% overscan. The image was not quite centered on the screen. The service menu should have adjustments for centering and overscan, and I will report back when I finish the calibration.

The only other input I checked was Component 1. I set this using a 480P scan rate which matched the output of the DVD player. I arrived at nearly the same settings as the HDMI input except for Brightness which was 36 and Tint which was 28. Overscan was about the same at this scan rate.

Hope you find this useful, more information to follow.

Cheers! :)

Originally posted by MarkMSM
Note on the overscan issue and the Service Menu....

A friend of mine also bought the PT-50DL54 the same day as me. He had the same overscan issue as me. I corrected his as well with the Service Menu.

A word of caution on the Service Menu. As of now, I know of no way to return the set to the factory defaults or how to exit the service menu WITHOUT saving any changes. It's very important to write down all the default settings before making any changes. I wrote mine down and will post them if requested.

Once in the Service Menu, the values are changed with the volume < > buttons. Once you've selected a setting, it's easy to make a mistake and click the Channel up/down buttons. This takes you to another setting and if you don't realize it, you may wind up changing a different setting than you intended when you click the volume <> buttons. (This happened to me).

MarkMSM, was there any setting all all to change the skew of the picture? The overscan test pattern on DVE is not parallel with the sides of my TV.

Can the regular posters in this thread confirm if the Panny will natively display 1280x720 via DVI / HDMI?

From reading some of the posts, it appears that everything is scaled to 800x600, which sucks compared to the fact that Sammy's do native 1280x720 with no issues.

This is a big deal for me as I plan to get the Panny for HTPC use.

Also, someone else posted why DVI is preferred over VGA.. for one, DVI is pure digital while VGA is analog. You get better PQ when using HTPC over DVI instead of converting the source twice.. ie PC(digital) -> VGA (analog) -> TV (digital). PC(digital) ---(DVI)--> TV(digital) is the way to go..

Originally posted by darkandlong
Tilt?

What exactly is tilt? I've seen the overscan problem with my set ( same as MarkMSM has shown), but I also have the picture slightly skewed... The lines for the overscan are not parallel with the edge of the TV... Can this be adjusted? Or should I exchange my set?

I would consider tilt a "proportionate" rotation of the image, either clockwise or counter-clockwise. My Mitsubishi DLP had about a 2 degree counter clockwise tilt. It is as if someone rotated the image. All of the bars should still be parallel.

It sounds like your case the bars are not parallel. In these cases the set may resemble a trapezoid. Projectors have a Keystone setting to correct this. I checked the Service Menu, but I could not find a Geometry adjustment for Keystone. On my old Mits. the keystone adjustment was in the form of screws.

I'll double check my Panny tonight to see if mine is skewed as well. Can you post a picture of your skew?

Topp Robertson,

Thank you for your excellent post. I'm sure we can all benefit from your calibration.

I used DVE to calibrate my set, and my settings are similar to yours (I posted them earlier). I also posted how to get in to the service menu.

My set was off center as well. I used the H-POS and V-POS settings in the service menu to correctly align it to the overscan pattern.

I've had trouble setting the Tint on this set. Flesh tones either look too red or too green. In some cases, I'm seeing Clay Faces. I think flesh tones is the one area the Mits. did a better job.

Originally posted by SeattleDesi
Can the regular posters in this thread confirm if the Panny will natively display 1280x720 via DVI / HDMI?

From reading some of the posts, it appears that everything is scaled to 800x600, which sucks compared to the fact that Sammy's do native 1280x720 with no issues.

This is a big deal for me as I plan to get the Panny for HTPC use.

Also, someone else posted why DVI is preferred over VGA.. for one, DVI is pure digital while VGA is analog. You get better PQ when using HTPC over DVI instead of converting the source twice.. ie PC(digital) -> VGA (analog) -> TV (digital). PC(digital) ---(DVI)--> TV(digital) is the way to go..

According to the manual:

Analog RGB signals that can be input
The table below lists the different types of analog RGB
signals that can be input. If a signal which differs greatly
from any of the types listed below is input, the picture
image may not be displayed correctly, or a black
background may be displayed.
Note: The number of dots for this Projection Television is 800 × 600
for NORMAL display. Number of dots other than 800 × 600 in
the above data, will be converted to 800 × 600 (with the
exception of MAC 16, which will be displayed in 832 × 624
dots).
Display
mode name
No. of dots
(H x V)
Vertical scanning
frequency (Hz)
VGA70 640 X 400 70.1
VGA60 640 X 480 59.9
SVGA60 800 X 600 60.3
XGA60 1024 X 768 60.0

Note: The number of dots for this Projection Television is 800 × 600
for NORMAL display. Number of dots other than 800 × 600 in
the above data, will be converted to 800 × 600 (with the
exception of MAC 16, which will be displayed in 832 × 624 dots.

So I think the 800 X 600 refers to the VGA input not the HDMI. If that were the case, that would screw more that HTPC group.

Originally posted by darkandlong
MarkMSM, was there any setting all all to change the skew of the picture? The overscan test pattern on DVE is not parallel with the sides of my TV.

I didn't see one.

Can you post a picture of your skew?

Originally posted by Red Dwarf

So I think the 800 X 600 refers to the VGA input not the HDMI. If that were the case, that would screw more that HTPC group.

Good info.. thanks!

Has anyone run a 1280x720 widescreen test pattern on their set using HDMI?

Originally posted by SeattleDesi
Can the regular posters in this thread confirm if the Panny will natively display 1280x720 via DVI / HDMI?

From reading some of the posts, it appears that everything is scaled to 800x600, which sucks compared to the fact that Sammy's do native 1280x720 with no issues.

This is a big deal for me as I plan to get the Panny for HTPC use.

Also, someone else posted why DVI is preferred over VGA.. for one, DVI is pure digital while VGA is analog. You get better PQ when using HTPC over DVI instead of converting the source twice.. ie PC(digital) -> VGA (analog) -> TV (digital). PC(digital) ---(DVI)--> TV(digital) is the way to go..


I think somebody reported earlier that panny can do 1280 x 720 natively via dvi/hdmi input. It is not an issue.
With vga input it can only does 800 x 600. Also 1064 x 768 is scaled down to 800 x 600 with scrolling. This sucks! I know sammy dlp can do 1280 x 720 via VGA input.

I am still waiting for my set to arrive this week.
I am also planning to connect my HTPC via hdmi/dvi. However it is a tough choice what to connect to single "precious" hdmi input - HDTV receiver or HTPC.
I might get ATI DVI-component dongle once I get my HDTV cable service.

jv59

Any update on the Dangerfish's ISF calibration - wondering if they got into the service menu.

Topp is supposed to come to my house after he gets the service manual on Friday. I will try and have him out early next week and he or I will post the results. I am also planning on trying to post some pictures once I get the unit all neat and tucked away. Seems some people have been asking for them and I haven't seen where many have been posted yet.

Originally posted by MarkMSM
I didn't see one.

Can you post a picture of your skew?

Mark,

DOn't have a digital camera... It is not a trapezoid, the entire image is rotated... The horizontal lines are lower top left then they are top right.

I spoke with Panasonic and they suggested exchanging the set... The TV shop service tech is going to call me today, and I will discuss it with him. I was hoping there was a setting for a rotation or something like that in the service menu, as I do NOT want the internals of the set altered at all. THe set is only 2 weeks old, and I don't want anyhting developing down the road when I can't replace it easily.

As for the overscan, I have the same thing as you do (image's positioning is like your "before" picture, except mine is skewed).

darkandlong,

Your description sounds exactly like the tilt issue I had with my Mits. WD-52525. I wonder if your light engine is mis-aligned.

I agree, if is cannot be corrected with the Servivce Menu, you should have the set replaced.

Please keep us all posted.

I found that the settings for H-POS and V-POS in the Service Menu are "Global". In other words, adjusting them takes affect across all resolutions (480i/480p/720p/1080i). I assumed the settings in the service menu related to specific resolutions. I thought I would have to switch to each resolution to update the alignment. This was the case with my old Panasonic Plasma.

The other settings (Y-g, Pr-g, Pb-g, etc.) are definitely local/tied to a resolution.

Has anyone else experimented with the Service Menu but me?

Remember to write down you default settings before making any changes.
Here are mine for 480p via component as a reference...

Y-G
00 84 00 BB

Pr-g
00 86 00 B2

Pb-g
00 88 00 B5

Y-OS
00 BA 00 2B

PR-OS
00 BC 02 00

PB-OS
00 BE 02 00

WB
00 F9 __ 00

H-POS
00 F0 __ 19

V-POS
00 F1 __ 1F

CW-I
00 F2 00 EB

AREA
00 16 __ ALL



BTW, I re-adjusted my picture settings closer to Topp's (ISF Calibrator) settings, and the flesh-tones definitely look more natural.

Here are my current settings for "Standard"

Temp: Normal
Color: 25
Tint: 27
Brightness: 28
Picture: 55
Sharpness: 0

Guys,

This is what I'm afraid of getting a 1st gen product from online vendor. I'm getting my set from Amazon this week. Once I turned on TV what are signs to look for regarding skewed and overscan issues? Is it quite apparent? Sorry I don't calib kits or anything to run test.

Thanks!

Well, this isn't really a first gen DLP from Panasonic. I know they made a DLP last year or the year before, but not sure if it was sold in the states. If it was, it must have been in real short supply. So, they do have some experience.

As for the overscan, all TV's have it. It's a natural thing. You'll only notice overscan if you hook up a PC to the HDMI input, but you can tweak that out with Powerstrip. If you want to check for picture skewing, just go to a channel that has a bar at the top of the screen, like a game on INHD or something. You'll be able to tell if that bar is parallel to the top of the screen all the way across. The odds of you getting a TV with a skewed picture are probably very slim as I believe only one person on here has posted that they have one. I know mine isn't skewed at all.

Ed

Just got my set last night, no skew issue that I can see so far. Only calibration so far is using the basic THX setup routine on one of my DVDs, plus used a starting adjustment based on the advice from the others here. Have not run any overscan, but did notice that the old crummy CRT TV it replaced was missing about 15% of the screen!!!

So far my observations are that the SD output is as good as you can expect, a little grainy. Setting sharpness to 0 as a number have recommended helped significantly. HD (C*x Cable HD PVR) from the discovery channel is awesome - just watched a program about dinosaurs which really looked 3D in the perspective shots. Black levels on this TV are signficantly better than my second choice TV (Sony GWIII), and infinitely better than my CRT that I was satisfied watching for the last 3 years!

No comment on audio (not intending to use it), DVD is pretty decent from a non-progressive-scan, component SD feed. Planning on getting an upscalar eventually. Finding Nemo looks way nicer than I've ever seen to date :)

Very satisfied so far. All plusses, no downside. Wife commented on the size being large for our room, but compared to the old 30inch there would be! Viewing distance will be 8 to 9 feet. My only comment is that I am using a stand I purchased from Costco, which has a wooden plinth to stand a plasma on. I used it so I could put my center channel underneath, but it is probably a tad higher than is comfortable. I know you can mount plasmas on walls, but I think a lower angle is more restful to watch. Will need to tinker more.

Planning to use the Avia DVD to make some non-professional tuing efforts, but straight out of the box I've been pleased.

Hope I don't break any rules by giving kudos to Plasma House which is where I bought it from - very smooth transaction. Shippers actually unloaded it and delivered it at 8pm last night (after I asked them to).

Thanks to all that have posted with details and advice. Much appreciated.

Originally posted by MarkMSM
darkandlong,

Your description sounds exactly like the tilt issue I had with my Mits. WD-52525. I wonder if your light engine is mis-aligned.

I agree, if is cannot be corrected with the Servivce Menu, you should have the set replaced.

Please keep us all posted.

Well, good news is the service guy agrees with me. He said he will check a demo unit to double check if the picture has a control in the service menu to control the rotation of the picture... I'm actually glad to hear I'm the only one with this problem so far. Pretty much assures me that this isn't typical of the model. I'm under the assumption I'll be exchanging this set.

Andrew

Originally posted by zeeeter
Hope I don't break any rules by giving kudos to Plasma House which is where I bought it from - very smooth transaction. Shippers actually unloaded it and delivered it at 8pm last night (after I asked them to).


Hope I'm not breaking any rules either by thanking you for throwing that part in! I'm thinking about going the out-of-state route, and that's one place I've bookmarked. I'm nervous as a [insert whatever analogy here] to actually buy from a place that I can't physically see and that isn't down the street from me. Glad to hear everything went alright with them.

I ordered Panny DLP on 17th but the status shows "not yet shipped". I am not even sure who is the seller if not Amazon.

How long it took yours shipped and show up at your front door?

TIA!

I ordered on Thursday 9th, it was supposed to go out within two business days, it shipped on Tuesday 14th, I received it Monday 20th, delivered from Brooklyn to Southern California. Not a ding or dent on the box!

Very happy customer.

I guess I posted too soon.

Here is reply email received from amazon:

Greetings from Amazon.com.

We are sorry to report that we will not be able to obtain the following
item from your order:

"Panasonic PT-50DL54 50" Rear-Projection DLP HDTV"

Though we had expected to be able to send this item to you, we've
since found that it is not available from any of our sources at this
time. We realize this is disappointing news to hear, and we apologize
for the inconvenience we have caused you.

We have cancelled this item from your order.

Your credit card will NOT BE CHARGED for this item because you only
pay for items when we ship them to you.

Your order is now closed.

Please note: This e-mail was sent from a notification-only address
that cannot accept incoming e-mail. Please do not reply to this message.

Thanks for shopping at Amazon.com, and we hope to see you again.

Sincerely,

Customer Service Department
zon.com

Well, I finally got my ATI DVI-Component dongle yesterday along with component Gamecube cables. The Gamecube looks awesome and there was a lot of improvement in Mario Kart even though it's not progressive scan. That's the only game I have right now, but will be picking up some more shortly.

As for the ATI dongle, I'd say the PQ is very, very close to the HDMI input. I can now use split screen with the computer. The split window is small, so I still have to sit kind of close to the TV if I did want to browse and watch TV at the same time. Being that my vision sucks, even with my contacts, I can barely read the computer from my couch in full screen. I haven't decided yet if I want to keep the dongle so I can have the option of split screen or just go back to the HDMI input.

I'm thinking I might really want the 60" instead. From my 11' seating distance, it would probably be better. Since my 30 day return period is almost up, I might see if they'll still let me trade up when it comes out...if it ever does.

Ed

Originally posted by MarkMSM

Has anyone else experimented with the Service Menu but me?

I decided to poke into the Service Menu last night, and then got scared off because I realized I didn't know what most of the things meant and didn't feel adventurous enough to play around and find out by accident. Can anyone provide a quick guide to which settings to play with to try to reduce overscan (if that's possible)?

Originally posted by grandall
I decided to poke into the Service Menu last night, and then got scared off because I realized I didn't know what most of the things meant and didn't feel adventurous enough to play around and find out by accident. Can anyone provide a quick guide to which settings to play with to try to reduce overscan (if that's possible)?

grandall,

The only settings you need to adjust to fix the overscan issue are:

H-POS
V-POS

These settings are global across all resolutions, so you only need to set them once.

Can you confirm that these are your default settings for 480p via component?...

Y-G
00 84 00 BB

Pr-g
00 86 00 B2

Pb-g
00 88 00 B5

Thanks!

Okay, here's another question. Anyone notice that when you look up the manual on the Panasonic site, there is a PT-50DL54 and a PT-50DL54J (I know there is an X too, but that's the integrated one)? I wonder what the difference is, if there is one. Mine says it's the PT-50DL54J on the back of my TV. Anyone else check theirs to see which model it says on the back? I'm going to email Panasonic also and ask them if there is a difference.

Ed

Mine is a ~J model too. Didn't notice until you posted!

Reply from Panasonic . . .

Dear Customer,

It is the same model just the on the packaging extra letter.

Thank you

5/10 for grammar :), but hopefully there isn't any difference.

Onecall has a manual on their site, that shows an 'x' model number as well as simply pt-50dl54. I thought the '64 series were the integrated tuner models, as the manual including the pt-50dl54x doesn't include info about tuner functions (that I could find anyway).

Originally posted by zeeeter
Reply from Panasonic . . .

Dear Customer,

It is the same model just the on the packaging extra letter.

Thank you

5/10 for grammar :), but hopefully there isn't any difference.
Thanks for the info! How nice of them not to reply to my email.;) At least they replied to somebody though. It still makes me wonder a little why they would have two different model numbers for the same TV. Oh well..

Ed

Originally posted by Jason One
Just wanted to point out that Mario Kart is a progressive scan game. Just hold B after you turn on your Cube, and it will ask you if you want to turn on progressive scan mode.
No way, really? I was just going by the back of the case and there was no TV thing that said progressive scan. Will definately have to try it when I get home. Maybe I should read instructions once in a while.:D

Ed

I've scanned through the 20+ pages and sorry if I missed this; Is there any info on the 60" unit release date?

For the new owners of this set, any of you considered the new jvc hd-ila set, if so what made you get the panny dlp over the hd-ila? I'd appreciate any feedback, thanks.

Originally posted by xedgex
I've scanned through the 20+ pages and sorry if I missed this; Is there any info on the 60" unit release date?

For the new owners of this set, any of you considered the new jvc hd-ila set, if so what made you get the panny dlp over the hd-ila? I'd appreciate any feedback, thanks.
I don't think there is a final release date for the 60". I might be wanting to trade up, so I'm interested too.

I considered the D-ILA. I was really into it when it got released and thought that would be the TV I got. The major downfall for me was the number of inputs. This day and age, how can you limit the number of inputs like that? Same for the Hitachi and Toshiba. The other thing is that I never saw one that looked good. They always looked very pixelated and never had a jaw dropping picture. I'm sure the feeds weren't that great, but the other TVs were displaying the same feed well. I did like the cosmetics of the TV though.

Ed

Originally posted by MarkMSM
grandall,

The only settings you need to adjust to fix the overscan issue are:

H-POS
V-POS

These settings are global across all resolutions, so you only need to set them once.

Can you confirm that these are your default settings for 480p via component?...

Y-G
00 84 00 BB

Pr-g
00 86 00 B2

Pb-g
00 88 00 B5

Thanks!

Thanks for your help. I'll try to check this evening to see what my settings are for those.

Do you know if the settings are specific to each input? (Such that if I fix, or screw up, the Component input that my PC is feeding that it's independent of the others?

Originally posted by grandall
Thanks for your help. I'll try to check this evening to see what my settings are for those.

Do you know if the settings are specific to each input? (Such that if I fix, or screw up, the Component input that my PC is feeding that it's independent of the others?

As far as I can tell, the H-POS and V-POS settings are global. Setting them once, set's them for all inputs.

The other settings appear to be local/specific to each setting.

Have fun!

Question for those that have hooked up a PC.

Could someone post a photo of the Windows desktop when connected either to the HDMI port or through a DVI-to-component dongle with a 1280x720 resolution setting on their video card. I'm interested in how much overscan is visible by default so I'd like to see how much of the task bar, start button, etc. is hidden. Maybe if you had Internet Explorer open full screen we could also check out the overscan at the top of the screen as well.

Thanks in advance!

Just a couple of questions. Was the data screen used for calculating overscan part of the service menu or is there an external test being run?

Some of this discussion is really shooting over the heads of us novices, step by step instructions were posted on accessing the service menu. But, I am not sure we knew how to adjust for overscan - the details were missing. What is the visual cue that overscan exists? Tilting was discounted, I think, but what does a viewer need to look for to know this is a problem.

Secondly, are there any potential harmful effects of adjusting the settings in the service menu? Are the risks similar to a CRT calibration or what? This isn't very clear. I would

Hi I am new to the forum. I just got my Panny 50'' DLP and I love it. I used the video essentials dvd to calibrate it as best possible. The only problem I have is in the blacks. Has anyone noticed that the program blacks look great but when you change channels, change inputs - hdmi, component, and turn off the tv the blacks look grey. Does anyone else have this problem and if so do you know what adjustment I can do to fix it. Thanks.

Originally posted by kculp
Just a couple of questions. Was the data screen used for calculating overscan part of the service menu or is there an external test being run?

Some of this discussion is really shooting over the heads of us novices, step by step instructions were posted on accessing the service menu. But, I am not sure we knew how to adjust for overscan - the details were missing. What is the visual cue that overscan exists? Tilting was discounted, I think, but what does a viewer need to look for to know this is a problem.

Secondly, are there any potential harmful effects of adjusting the settings in the service menu? Are the risks similar to a CRT calibration or what? This isn't very clear. I would

Sorry about that. I used the "overscan" pattern on the Digital Video Essentials DVD. I have included a picture of the pattern above before and after the adjustment. The overscan pattern will show the overscan problem. I have not been able to find a "pattern" in the service menu itself yet.

Once you are in the service menu:
use the Channel Up/Down arrows to highlight the H-POS setting
click the center "enter" button to select H-POS
Use the Volume up/down arrows to adjust H-POS to correct overscan

repeat the same process above for V-POS.

Good Luck.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Originally posted by legacyrocks
Hi I am new to the forum. I just got my Panny 50'' DLP and I love it. I used the video essentials dvd to calibrate it as best possible. The only problem I have is in the blacks. Has anyone noticed that the program blacks look great but when you change channels, change inputs - hdmi, component, and turn off the tv the blacks look grey. Does anyone else have this problem and if so do you know what adjustment I can do to fix it. Thanks.

legacyrocks,

Can you post your new settings for Color, Tint, Picture, Brightness?

It is possible that your DVD is pushing blacks (low brightness setting) so your blacks look great on DVD, but not as good on other inputs. You may check to see if you DVD Player has a black/brightness adjustment. My Tosh. does. I had the opposite problem. Blacks looked great on DVD, but every other input looked too dark. I had to turn down the brightness on my DVD Player.

Did you have the overscan problem as well?

Originally posted by MarkMSM
grandall,

The only settings you need to adjust to fix the overscan issue are:

H-POS
V-POS

These settings are global across all resolutions, so you only need to set them once.

Can you confirm that these are your default settings for 480p via component?...

Y-G
00 84 00 BB

Pr-g
00 86 00 B2

Pb-g
00 88 00 B5

Thanks!
OK, I poked back into the service menu. Here's what I found - first, I couldn't get Y-G, Pr-G, and Pb-g as options for something in 480p. They were greyed out for a 480p signal via component and only appeared when I went back to a 720p. Do you know if there is something particular that needs to be done or a specific type of input that might make those appear or disappear for 480p? For 720p, I've got Y-G: 00 8A 00 BB, Pr-g: 00 8C 00 B4, and Pb-g: 00 8E 00 B3.

I then went to play with the overscan. Maybe I was misinterpreting what you were saying, but did you actually get the width and height to shrink via the H-POS and V-POS, or was that to center a screen that had been preshrunk either by reducing the resolution or otherwise such that it fits in the middle correctly? I was starting with a screen at 1280x720 that's slightly over on all sides, and playing with those settings moved it in one direction or the other but didn't seem to fix anything per se. Am I doing something wrong or did I just misunderstand what you were saying?

Well, for all you HTPC users, I think I found a resolution that works. Thanks to a thread in the HTPC forum, I tried a few different resolutions that were being used on the Panasonic LCD. Using Powerstrip, I set a 1200x675 resolution. This fills the entire screen, edge to edge and top to bottom. There is no overscan or underscan that I can see. I played a DVD and compared this resolution to the 1280x720 and the PQ looked the same.

I am using this through component input with the ATI DVI-Component dongle. I haven't tried it through HDMI yet. If anyone comes up with anything better, let me know.

Ed

Originally posted by grandall
OK, I poked back into the service menu. Here's what I found - first, I couldn't get Y-G, Pr-G, and Pb-g as options for something in 480p. They were greyed out for a 480p signal via component and only appeared when I went back to a 720p. Do you know if there is something particular that needs to be done or a specific type of input that might make those appear or disappear for 480p? For 720p, I've got Y-G: 00 8A 00 BB, Pr-g: 00 8C 00 B4, and Pb-g: 00 8E 00 B3.

I then went to play with the overscan. Maybe I was misinterpreting what you were saying, but did you actually get the width and height to shrink via the H-POS and V-POS, or was that to center a screen that had been preshrunk either by reducing the resolution or otherwise such that it fits in the middle correctly? I was starting with a screen at 1280x720 that's slightly over on all sides, and playing with those settings moved it in one direction or the other but didn't seem to fix anything per se. Am I doing something wrong or did I just misunderstand what you were saying?

That's strange about not seeing Y-G, Pr-G and PB-G with a 480p signal via component. The only time they are grayed out for me is when I choose the TV input or another non-component input. Hmmmmm.

I used the H-POS and V-POS settings to center my screen. The settings did not change the overall height of the picture. For me, the height and width were fine, but the entire picture was off center (too high, and too far to the right). I saw this with the Digital Video Essentials DVD.

H/V-POS only change the Horizontal and Vertical Position. In other words the entire picture shifts up/down or left right. My old Panasonic Plasma additionally had H-SIZE and V-SIZE Adjustments that let me expand/shrink the image either horizontally or vertically, while keeping the image centered.

Hope that helps.

I pulled the trigger on the 50 incher and I am very happy with my decision. HD2+, 8 seg, 2500:1 C/R, anti glare, here is o pic.

Hi folks, been reading this forum for a while and will be checking out the Panny today. I have a question which might be slightly off topic but related nonetheless. I have 2 DVD players which aren't progressive scan (my current tv isn't). Is it mandatory to have a progressive scan player with a DLP set such as the Panny?

Here's what mine looks like installed, not sure about the height yet, may need to work on the center channel placement.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=9997&sort=1&cat=last1&page=1

nothing is mandatory unless your trying to convince you other half - but my experience is that the PS definately improvies the set - see if they will throw one iin with the purchase. There so cheap

Originally posted by zeeeter
Here's what mine looks like installed, not sure about the height yet, may need to work on the center channel placement.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=9997&sort=1&cat=last1&page=1

Question for ya Zeeter? do you find your looking up at the TV? or are you sitting with your eyes right in the middle - to me that stand seems to be putting the DLP a little high - I had to cut my stand to make it fit and that was around 16" high puts it perfect in my room.

Originally posted by zeeeter
Here's what mine looks like installed, not sure about the height yet, may need to work on the center channel placement.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=9997&sort=1&cat=last1&page=1

zeeeter,

Where did you get your stand?

Can you provide the make and model?

Question for anyone that has the Panny DLP.

Does the Panny monitor swivel on the base? If it does, how far can it be turned? I'm wondering what type of stand to buy, if I decide to get the Panny. If the Panny swivels, then there is less of a need for a stand with wheels.

Also, what is the width of the base for the 50" and especially the 60"?

Finally, which major chain stores, if any, carry Panasonic DLPs?

TIA

Originally posted by BleednEdge
Question for anyone that has the Panny DLP.

Does the Panny monitor swivel on the base? If it does, how far can it be turned? I'm wondering what type of stand to buy, if I decide to get the Panny. If the Panny swivels, then there is less of a need for a stand with wheels.

Also, what is the width of the base for the 50" and especially the 60"?

Finally, which major chain stores, if any, carry Panasonic DLPs?

TIA

nope no swilvel, figure the actual base would be around 45"? overall tv is 55" wide

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
If you have a screen that's tilted like that, I would definately get it replaced. I have no tilt whatsoever in my TV. I don't see any rainbows in mine. I've actually never seen rainbows in any TV, but I don't look for them either.

Ed

All,

I have been watching mostly WS dvds up until this morning when the cable guy arrived. I noticed some skew in 4:3 content. The left black bar is about 1/8" wider up top compared to the bottom. The right black bar is fine. Has anyone else seen this with 4:3 content?

Also, the overscan is very obvious when watching CNBC. The bottom ticker is not displayed fully. I guess I do need to go into the service menu but am hesitant.

Jsterrit - it is a little high. When we were originally looking we considered a plasma, located over a fireplace, so the height was about the same. First impression was that it is a little high, but the boss (a.k.a wife) and I have agreed to try it for a while to see how we get on. The main benefit is that the stand we bought included a frame to elevate a plasma on, and it perfectly fits my center speaker underneath. The alternative was to wall mount the speaker, find a bracket that locks on the top of the TV, or to mount a shelf and route the wiring. I preferred to put up with the height for the time being!

MarkMSM, the stand came from Costco, it was $299 and is surprisingly high quality for the price. The sucker nearly killed me carrying it into the house! We have two young terriers who would love to get stuck into the components, hence the glass front choice. The unit is a Martin Furniture unit, part of the Kathy Ireland Home collection. It is called a DLP/Plasma stand, model number TB358, item number 813328. It would appear to be a store-availability-only item (not on the costco.com website). We bought ours from the Costco store here - Costco in SOCal (http://www.costco.com/Warehouse/LocationTemplate.aspx?Warehouse=690)

Martin furniture website (http://www.martinfurniture.com) but they do not show the model specifically. You can get their contact number off the website.

I put the actual costco store link as we looked in a couple of other local stores and they were out of stock.

BleednEdge - it is rigidly fixed.

OK - now for a newbie question to show my ignorance here. Should this TV be showing black bars above and below the display when showing widescreen pics in FULL mode? I thought the whole idea of "widescreen" TVs was that the 16:9 displayed perfectly.

I can use zoom or Just to get rid of them, with some distortion, but would prefer to avoid that. I am using component output on a non-progressive-scan DVD player.

Widescreen TVs do NOT get rid of black bars totally. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900)

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
Well, for all you HTPC users, I think I found a resolution that works. Thanks to a thread in the HTPC forum, I tried a few different resolutions that were being used on the Panasonic LCD. Using Powerstrip, I set a 1200x672 resolution. This fills the entire screen, edge to edge and top to bottom. There is no overscan or underscan that I can see. I played a DVD and compared this resolution to the 1280x720 and the PQ looked the same.

I am using this through component input with the ATI DVI-Component dongle. I haven't tried it through HDMI yet. If anyone comes up with anything better, let me know.

Ed

Could you confirm that by setting 1200x672, you were able to achieve 1:1 mapping without overscan?(Maybe a picture?)
Also, could you share the power strip setting?

Thanks.

Originally posted by dingJam
Widescreen TVs do NOT get rid of black bars totally. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900)

Ah-hah - told you I was a n00b :rolleyes:

Thanks for the link.

Originally posted by FaSSt2001
Well, for all you HTPC users, I think I found a resolution that works. Thanks to a thread in the HTPC forum, I tried a few different resolutions that were being used on the Panasonic LCD. Using Powerstrip, I set a 1200x672 resolution. This fills the entire screen, edge to edge and top to bottom. There is no overscan or underscan that I can see. I played a DVD and compared this resolution to the 1280x720 and the PQ looked the same.

I am using this through component input with the ATI DVI-Component dongle. I haven't tried it through HDMI yet. If anyone comes up with anything better, let me know.

Ed

Way to go Ed! Thanks for blazing the trail here. I think this TV is definitely at the top of my list for my first HDTV purchase in the next month or two. I had planned on the Sammy 74 series but the delays and feature downgrade changed my mind. I saw the Panasonic for the first time a couple days ago at Magnolia HiFi right next to an old 56" thin bezel HLN Samsung and I actually prefered the asthetics of the Panasonic.

Back to PC input. Ed, you mentioned that the 1200x672 resolution PQ "looked the same" as the full 1280x720. So I assume you mean that is excellent PQ with razor sharp text, ala 1:1 mapping? Also if you do try this new resolution through HDMI I would be interested if a) it works and b) PQ relative to the DVI-component dongle.

Based on your post I read through the many posts in the HTPC forum on PC input to the LCD Panasonics. Lots of info there! I ran across a nice guide to Powerstrip that scared the heck out of me though. If I follow through on the purchase I will likely be back to ask just how to set up this 1200x672 resolution in Powerstrip. All the discussion in this forum also got me wondering about picking up the Panny LCD instead. My local Costco has a great deal on the PT-50LCX64 with the built in tuner right now. Still think I would prefer the new DLP though even at a few hundered dollars more and minus the tuner.

-dave

Originally posted by JJAMO
Could you confirm that by setting 1200x672, you were able to achieve 1:1 mapping without overscan?(Maybe a picture?)
Also, could you share the power strip setting?

Thanks.
I made a slight mistake with the numbers. That should be 1200x675. I don't know why I was thinking 672. I'll edit that in the previous post.

Anyway, I believe this is a 1:1 pixel mapped resolutions. I'm not positive on how to tell for sure, but if the math is done like I think it is, then it works. The 1200 is divisible by 16 ~ 75 times and the 675 is divisible by 9 ~ 75 times. Unfortunately, I can't take a picture because I still haven't replaced my digital camera. I can try and borrow my mom's this weekend. The text and everything looked exactly the same to me as the overscanned 1280x720 resolution. I'll try this resolution through HDMI tonight and see if it works for that also. Through component, the text isn't quite as sharp as it was through the HDMI. The picture does look a little softer, but it's very close. I did compare the two with the 1280x720.

All I did in Powerstrip was go to create a new custom resolution, clicked "Lock total geometry" and added the above in the active pixels boxes.

I believe all these Panasonic DLPs are off center vertically. You may have to go into the SM and adjust your vertical position.

Ed

Originally posted by WatsonNew
All,

I have been watching mostly WS dvds up until this morning when the cable guy arrived. I noticed some skew in 4:3 content. The left black bar is about 1/8" wider up top compared to the bottom. The right black bar is fine. Has anyone else seen this with 4:3 content?

Also, the overscan is very obvious when watching CNBC. The bottom ticker is not displayed fully. I guess I do need to go into the service menu but am hesitant.

My Panny DLP as well as my friends both have the 1/8" skew on the sides and the off-center adjustment issue.

The off-center adjustment issue can be easily fixed in the SM by adjusting the H-POS and V-POS Settings. The 1/8" skew issues may require a separate geometry adjustment that none of us have found yet. I'm not worried about the 1/8" skew since I never watch TV with right/left black (4:3) bars.

Hi all,
I'm a prospectiv buyer of this Panny set. I'm also a newbie into thi HDTV realms.

Can someone post some pics of the overscan, skew, etc.... so that I have an idea what you guys are talking about?
This will be my first big screen HDTV set.

Thanks in advance :)

Originally posted by RudyMeister
Hi all,
I'm a prospectiv buyer of this Panny set. I'm also a newbie into thi HDTV realms.

Can someone post some pics of the overscan, skew, etc.... so that I have an idea what you guys are talking about?
This will be my first big screen HDTV set.

Thanks in advance :)

I posted one on page 21 of this thread. I posted it on 9/19 at 9:10 AM.

Check it out.

jsterritt, zeeeter,

Thanks for your replies.

I'm still wondering where I can see a real live Panny DLP. I pretty much almost made up my mind I'm going for the Mits 62725, but I haven't ruled out the Panny.

All I have locally is Best Buy, Circuit City, Good Guys, Sears, and 1 boutique electronics shop. Finding the Mits is not a problem, but as far as I know, none of them carry the Panny DLPs.

Does anyone here know whether the large chains are planning on carrying Panasonic? TIA.

Bleedn,

Sears is carrying them in Watertown, NY.

If they are here, in the wasteland of America, I'm sure your local Sears should have them.

Not sure about BB, CC, Etc. Sorry

I saw one today for 1st time at compusa...but the feed into the set was not HD.
The dvd they play was also just a regular dvd player, no upscaler.

One question though, and I've seen a lot of say on this topic but...

Is 50" too big for my viewing distance which is around 8 or 9.5 ft ??

Originally posted by zeeeter
[

MarkMSM, the stand came from Costco, it was $299 and is surprisingly high quality for the price. The sucker nearly killed me carrying it into the house! We have two young terriers who would love to get stuck into the components, hence the glass front choice. The unit is a Martin Furniture unit, part of the Kathy Ireland Home collection. It is called a DLP/Plasma stand, model number TB358, item number 813328. It would appear to be a store-availability-only item (not on the costco.com website). We bought ours from the Costco store here - Costco in SOCal (http://www.costco.com/Warehouse/LocationTemplate.aspx?Warehouse=690)

Martin furniture website (http://www.martinfurniture.com) but they do not show the model specifically. You can get their contact number off the website.

I put the actual costco store link as we looked in a couple of other local stores and they were out of stock.

BleednEdge - it is rigidly fixed. [/B]

Yes they are out of stock. The closest stand was in Phoenix. But not all is lost. Costco has another stand which I like and it's cheaper. 58" wide and rated to hold 300 lbs. Item # 814520 and costs $224.99. It's a deal!

yup i finally put it up on demo today at our compusa in parsippany. i have it placed right next to the panasonic lcd and a 50" hitachi lcd. it looks the best in my opinion. we have two sources running to it. our compusa dvd and directv hdtv. both look excellent!
nice tv!

all home theater compusa's should be getting this tv out and on demo within the next week or so

Hi Red Dwarf
Did you get your TV ? I thought you got the stand with it. Please Be sure to let us know first impressions if and when you get it set up ,jojo

I did it. I finally ordered a new (and first HDTV) PT-50DL54 tonight. I noticed a post earlier from Topp Robertson that went into alot of detail with regards to calibrating the set....will his information essentially be the same as what I would get if I purchased DVE or Avia?

Maybe this is a dumb question, but I was looking at DVI/HDMI cable prices on ebay and some descriptions said a "DVI to HDMI" cable others said "HDMI to DVI" cable...are these the same types of cables, or is there a specific type that I will need? If it matters, I will be going with a DISH network HD receiver.

Any recomendations on stands?

Thanks,
Adam

Originally posted by RudyMeister

Is 50" too big for my viewing distance which is around 8 or 9.5 ft ??

No - I sit about 8.5 feet away and its sweet - movies are great - tv is a little overwhelming unless its sports - the De La Hoya fight - outstanding on the screen - could have been a better fight though - the World Cup hockey - sweet.

You should be fine.

Originally posted by jojo57
Hi Red Dwarf
Did you get your TV ? I thought you got the stand with it. Please Be sure to let us know first impressions if and when you get it set up ,jojo

I decided the Panasonic stand was wayyyy too much money. I have the TV on order with a buddy in the business (killer price) but it hasn't confirmed shipping yet. So I'm canceling the stand and waiting for word on the set!

See attached photo of the Costco stand

Originally posted by jsterritt
No - I sit about 8.5 feet away and its sweet - movies are great - tv is a little overwhelming unless its sports - the De La Hoya fight - outstanding on the screen - could have been a better fight though - the World Cup hockey - sweet.

You should be fine.

Jsterritt....yours about the same distance as mine. can TV and SD be a bit too grainy, since yo're so close in?