Given the number of us who have purchased one of the 525 series DLPs from Mitsubishi, I've started this thread as a place for owners to share information, tips, and tricks about set up and configuration.

There have been some great posts on this topic already. Most of them are buried in the original thread announcing the Mits sets, so to get things started I've provided a list of links by category below.

Please add to this list, ask new questions, and share your knowledge with the rest of us.

-eth2



Setup
Removing the anti-glare shield (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4066840#post4066840)
Tip for removing the anti-glare shield (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4167121#post4167121)
Photos of set with anti-glare shield removed (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4123886#post4123886)

Picture Adjustments
Calibrating with Avia or DVE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4140827#post4140827)
mdenero's picture settings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4170542#post4170542)
rsg_1's picture settings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4171334#post4171334)
rtmoore4's picture settings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4175785#post4175785)

Connecting components
About Firewire (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4156033#post4156033)
Connecting Tivo (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4156990#post4156990)
OTA antenna recommendations (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4165240#post4165240)

Netcommand
rtmoore4's initial impressions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4170195#post4170195)
Big Al's Summary (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4170334#post4170334)

Known Problems/Fixes
Fan noise (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4187847#post4187847)
Fixing the Reset Problem (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4185633#post4185633)

Official Mitsubishi Links
525 Series specs (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/2004_2005_product_pages/Specs_PDFs/525_2004_specs.pdf)
525 Series owner's guide (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/2004_2005_product_pages/Owners_Guides_PDFs/525series_OG.pdf)

Other informative posts
Reynard's initial impressions of 525 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4096038#post4096038)

let's hope we can get some information passed around...

Is there anything preventing the use of the INPUT-DTV component inputs as just a regular component (YPrPb) input like the others? From what I can see, the signaling on those inputs is the exact same as the other component inputs except that they can also be used as an RGB+HV hook up...

Very nice summary of the very long thread. Thanks.

I hooked up my PS2 to the INPUT-DTV component inputs... only thing is that you get an annoying on-screen message asking you to check power or input connections whenever you turn on/off the PS2... this message does not appear if you use the other two component hookups.

I just ordered a 52725 from a dealer here in San Diego. I was discussing getting CableCard from Adelphia -- my local cable provider, and they recommended getting a set-top box. Their reasons were both for the pay-per-view and the on-screen TV guide, but they also mentioned issues with scaling the display. Can anyone enlighten me on this? I understand that normal SD is 4:3 and HD is 16:9. Are there options in between for scaling or displaying different video content?

The salesman told me that they normally use two connections, one for the SD channels and one for the HD channels so that I would have more options for scaling my display with SD.

I have to admit I'd kind of prefer the CableCard, though. I don't use PPV, and Adelphia will still allow me to call in and order if I really want to see a movie or something. Not to mention it is $9 / month cheaper.

Can someone more intelligent than me help me out with this? Do I really need a STB with separate connections for SD and HD? Has anybody had any good experience with the CableCard?

Thanks for any input.

From my understanding of how cablecard works, that doesn't make sense... The card is just like a personalized authorization device that allows your TV tuner to descramble whatever is hooked up to the ANT-1 input. If the input is properly descrambled, then the tuner will do its job and output the signal in whatever format it was intended to be in...

I am getting my cablecard late this coming week and I will let you guys know how that goes.

Just took delivery of my 62525 this afternoon. The only component I have connected to it is my D* HDTivo (HR10-250) using the HDMI to HDMI cable supplied with the HDTivo.

I am very pleased with the picture quality however, I am not getting any sound through the TV. I have gone through the manual a few times and tried everything I can think of.

The mute button is not on; the TV speakers are set to ON; I setup the DBS in Net Command and told it to use Monolink for Video and Audio. When I switch to ANT-1 I do hear white noise through the speakers so I know they work.

My A/V receiver and speakers are not setup yet so all I have for audio is the TV.

Any suggestions to help get my Mitsu fix would be greatly appreciated.

62525 is on its way. I went with it over the HLP after much thought and deliberation.

Originally posted by sch8r
Just took delivery of my 62525 this afternoon. The only component I have connected to it is my D* HDTivo (HR10-250) using the HDMI to HDMI cable supplied with the HDTivo.

I am very pleased with the picture quality however, I am not getting any sound through the TV. I have gone through the manual a few times and tried everything I can think of.

The mute button is not on; the TV speakers are set to ON; I setup the DBS in Net Command and told it to use Monolink for Video and Audio. When I switch to ANT-1 I do hear white noise through the speakers so I know they work.

My A/V receiver and speakers are not setup yet so all I have for audio is the TV.

Any suggestions to help get my Mitsu fix would be greatly appreciated.

I believe I had to set the HDTivo (HR10-250) to output through HDMI. Not sure but I also think that when you select optical digital out, it only sends it through the optical. In my case, the optical goes to my receiver and I get no sound on the TV. I can switch it back to get sound on the tv but then I loose surround. Minor PITA.

I posted this in another thread, but it might be more appropriate here.
I talked to Mits parts again to see if the SERVICE Manual was available yet. It is in CD form, but not yet in hard copy. Both are $40 direct (they don't sell through distributors). I want the hard copy because of the large folded 4 and 6 page schematic diagrams that you can't begin to read on a single PDF printed out page.
Beside $40 is way too much for a CD copy unless you are really in a hurry for it.

Mits parts #: 800-553-7278

Originally posted by chaslum
62525 is on its way. I went with it over the HLP after much thought and deliberation. Just what was the deal breaker against the HLP?

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I am getting my cablecard late this coming week and I will let you guys know how that goes.


UMD_Terp,

I also live in Montgomery County. My 52525 will be delivered tomorrow and Comcast is coming out on Friday.

Questions:
1) Did you get the cablecard installed yet from Comcast? If so, how is that working out?

2) Assuming you've been using a STB from Comcast (before the cablecard), which model number is it? I've asked for HD and DVR, so I'm guessing I'll be getting the Motorola 6208.

3) How did you connect the STB? I'm guessing using the Mits' HDMI out offers the potentially best picture (other than cable card or OTA). However, not having the TV or STB yet, I don't know what kind of connector I need. I've read that the STB only has DVI, so it seems I'll need an HDMI/DVI adapter, but need more info (male or female interface for HDMI, DVI).

Thanks,
eth2

Originally posted by eth2
UMD_Terp,

I also live in Montgomery County. My 52525 will be delivered tomorrow and Comcast is coming out on Friday.

Questions:
1) Did you get the cablecard installed yet from Comcast? If so, how is that working out?

2) Assuming you've been using a STB from Comcast (before the cablecard), which model number is it? I've asked for HD and DVR, so I'm guessing I'll be getting the Motorola 6208.

3) How did you connect the STB? I'm guessing using the Mits' HDMI out offers the potentially best picture (other than cable card or OTA). However, not having the TV or STB yet, I don't know what kind of connector I need. I've read that the STB only has DVI, so it seems I'll need an HDMI/DVI adapter, but need more info (male or female interface for HDMI, DVI).

Thanks,
eth2

Cable guy is coming tomorrow to install the cablecard so I will let you know then. I am actually using a regular digital STB that only has composite out. I have it hooked up to the ANT-1 input on the TV. I want to get rid off all that and just use the cablecard.... I don't need PPV services or On Demand at all and the cable card should be just fine for me

Originally posted by videobruce
Just what was the deal breaker against the HLP?

I also posted these comments in the HLP vs. Mits DLP thread earlier:

My Decision and Why... ETC!
Over the last year I have owned 50" Sony LCD, 55" Philips LCoS (Currently) and have been researching Sammy HLP's and Mits 525 forums for over a month now and I have decided to go with the Mits 62525. Tweeter is allowing me to swap out my defective LCoS at original purchase price (thank god) for a new set. Below are my basic reasons for going with the Mits:

-All the HLP threads I have viewed are frought with people experiencing a high volume of problems: Blinking light problem, Sets dead on arrival, ballast replacements, and the customer service people were experiencing though Sammy seemed less that great, and in some cases just downright horrible.

- 525 problems seem much fewer and farther between. Plus it appears that Mits is handling these problems quite well- For the "Reset Problem" for instance, Mitsubishi sends a compact flash card to the consumer which they can use to fix/upgrade the tv themselves!

- I have compared them side by side in Tweeter and the 525 was brighter, had more features and an overall sharper picture. I was originally concerned that SD viewing on the Mits might really bring out the worst in the picture. I have had some people refer me to the HLP because of a smoother picture for this type of viewing. However, since I got an HD DVR box last week, I have watched very little SD programming and the SD programming I do watch doesn’t look that bad (on a crappy snowballed, LCoS mind you) so I am not too worried.

- I am an avid X-box gamer (duh) and it definitely appears that the Mits handles X-box signals superior to the Sammy HLP's ; fast movements and pans are handled very well, and the picture on the Mits is clear, bright and striking

- While the reflective screen was a slight issue, it is probably best that I have some sort of protective screen. Whereas the Sammy's cannot be removed, I am worried about my dog and parties at my house which could bring irreparable damage to an HLP screen. Plus the Mits screen is simple to remove in a 3 step process. I also can contol my home theater ambient lighting pretty well, and it is not distracting on my reflective LCoS: Im not too worried.

-One HDMI and 2 component inputs were concerning at first but I will probably only use three inputs anyways: DVD (via HDMI; looking for DVD Player recommendations by the way), X-Box (component 1) and HD-DVR box (component 2). Plus, who knows how the firewire inputs might come into play in the future… I’m hopeful.

-The Compact Flash slot is a real plus as I also maintain a Digital photography business and this is a very seamless way to display photos to clients and friends alike.

-Size and weight of Mits was a concern as I live in a one bedroom apt. However, it will fit, and I don’t plan on moving into any SMALLER apt’s or houses in the near future.

- I should be getting my set in the next 7 or so days so I will keep you all informed of my experience with the set and will post photos as well.

I hope this has been helpful!

The Mits DLP has 3 componet inputs, one is just labeled "DTV" but is and work as a HD componet input.

Originally posted by papaduxx
The Mits DLP has 3 componet inputs, one is just labeled "DTV" but is and work as a HD componet input.

this is true...

I used the DTV input and set it up as PrYPb in netcommand...Only catch is that if you go to netcommand and try to add a DVD, Game, etc... device it will not let you use the DTV input. You must choose "other" or "DTV" as the device type and then it lets you use that input. Also, if you have that input selected and you turn your device on/off, it will show a screen message stating that you should check connections/power.

For the "Reset Problem" for instance, Mitsubishi sends a compact flash card to the consumer which they can use to fix/upgrade the tv themselves! They are using the card reader as a way to do firmware updates??

525 problems seem much fewer and farther between. Plus it appears that Mits is handling these problems quite wellThat really isn't a fair comparison. Compare how long the Sammy's have been out, then compare how long this Mits has been available!

I'm not knocking the Mits, and most here know the Sammy's have had problems, but this Mits has been available only about a month now (in most areas). Way to early to tell.

Do these Mitsubishi DLPs have overscan when connected to an HTPC? I know you can't get 1:1 mapping on a Samsung without slight overscan and I want to know if Mitsu's bezel hides some of the displayable image as well.

I'm looking to purchase either an HLP or the 725 and it will be used half the time as my main computer's monitor. I was really looking forward to the Samsung due to the 2 DVI inputs. These only have 1, however they have a standard VGA port. To my understanding, the image is not as sharp via this port as it would be through a DVI connection.

I know you guys are just getting your sets up and running...any of you hooked up a computer to see how it looks? I was browsing the HTPC forum here, however these new Mitsus haven't made it over there yet.

Thanks in advance!

Originally posted by videobruce
They are using the card reader as a way to do firmware updates??
.........
That really isn't a fair comparison. Compare how long the Sammy's have been out, then compare how long this Mits has been available!


Yes, someone else posted info about Mits sending them a Compact Flash card to do Firmware upgrades (for the reset issue I believe).

I was strictly comparing the HLP and the Mits, of which neither have been out for more than a month or two (I was not taking into account HLN models in my judgements). Also with Sammy producing DLPs for the last 2-3 (?) years, I was suprised they would come out with a new model with so many issues.

That's slick, though not as slick as the color bar generator built in!

That gave me a 'woody'!

Yeah, I was playing with that color bar when I was last at Tweeter. Pretty tight I must say!

I wish it covered a larger area. Love to see that on a vetroscope.

Originally posted by maza
Do these Mitsubishi DLPs have overscan when connected to an HTPC? I know you can't get 1:1 mapping on a Samsung without slight overscan and I want to know if Mitsu's bezel hides some of the displayable image as well.

I'm looking to purchase either an HLP or the 725 and it will be used half the time as my main computer's monitor. I was really looking forward to the Samsung due to the 2 DVI inputs. These only have 1, however they have a standard VGA port. To my understanding, the image is not as sharp via this port as it would be through a DVI connection.

I know you guys are just getting your sets up and running...any of you hooked up a computer to see how it looks? I was browsing the HTPC forum here, however these new Mitsus haven't made it over there yet.

Thanks in advance!

IMO, the VGA connection looks great on this set. DVI on newer TVs is not for computer video anyway. (Read the manual on any of the newer sets.) They are all coming with HDMI now, which messes with being able to get computer resolutions across.

As far as the Mitsu goes, you have three format options when hooking up a HTPC to this set. 720p Standard, 720p Reduce 1, and 720p Reduce 2. The reduce 1 setting works best for no overscan (very, very slightly underscanned), but it scales the 720p signal down a bit, so text is not as clear as under the standard setting. The standard setting has a lot of overscan, though, so it doesn't work well for standard computer stuff (browsing, etc.) Don't get me wrong, text is not bad at the reduce 1 setting. It's quite viewable, especially if you aren't too close to the set. But it is definitely softer than at the standard setting.

I have been able to tweak the timings in Powerstrip to get rid of all the horizontal overscan on the un-scaled standard setting, but I can only get about halfway where I need to be to get rid of vertical overscan. The reason for this is the set thinks the signal switches to an XGA signal 1024x768 (4:3) once I get too far out of standard 720p timing. 720 pixels is just too close to 768 pixels, not giving me enough room for front and back porch adjustments before the set changes formats on me.

This really sucks, as the text quality is truly gorgeous when viewed at the standard setting. At first, I thought that the horizontal timing fix I was able to accomplish would be perfect for watching DVDs, as with most anamorphic DVD movies, there are thin black bars at the top and bottom anyway, so I didn't care that the vertical overscan was still present. It turns out, for DVD video quality, it really doesn't make a difference whether you use the standard or reduce 1 settings, as the video is already scaled from standard DVD resolution, anyway. Even scaled, I put the PQ out of the HTPC up there with the best DVI DVD players around.

Hey thanks for the reply! Keep us updated on how it turns out. The ability of either this Mitsu or the Sammy as a PC monitor will be my deciding factor. I'm sure either one will do the TV end of things just fine.

Can you post up some screen shots of how it looks?

rtmoore4

I'm disappointed to hear that you weren't able to use powerstrip to make the unscaled format work properly. I am connecting my pc to the Mits next week and was hoping to display the highest resolution possible, but it looks like the reduce 1 setting is going to be it for now. I'm wondering if there might be something in the service menu that would force the set to recognize the custom settings as standard 720p, but this may be wishful thinking.

Delar,

Your resolution can still be set to 1280x720x60Hz. The image is just going to be scaled down slightly if you use the 720p Reduce 1 setting.

Play around with Powerstrip a little and see if you can figure out the vertical overscan issue. Post your settings if you can!

rtmoore4:

i don't have my set yet, but i noticed an illustration in the mits manual ("pc display formats" p. 80) that the full 1280x720p setting will cause slight vertical stretching as well as overscan. it looks like even the "reduce 2" setting has slight vertical stretching.

have you noticed the vertical stretching? if so, i guess resizing the screen to fit would still give a stretched image.

thanks.

Anybody got NetCommand working for recording?

Is this how it's supposed to work....?

The TV's IR blasters will control your STB (optional) and your recording device (VCR, DVR). The TV timer wakes the TV up and turns on the other units. Either the TV's tuner changes to the channel you want to record, or it turns the STB to the channel you want to record. The TV sets up the proper input selections on the components and then IR blasts the "record" transport control to the recording device. When the timer expires, the TV IR blasts the "stop" transport control to the recording device, and finally IR blasts a power-off to all the components.

Have I got this correct? If so, has anyone tried to use this to record an HD channel to a standard VCR? I would think the TV can create SVIDEO to the VCR, right?

Even though the TV timer is doing all this, I should be able to use the TV while it's recording, right? For example, if I'm using the STB tuner for recording, I should be able to watch any TV station I want using the TV's tuner, right?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Anybody got NetCommand working for recording?


Have I got this correct? If so, has anyone tried to use this to record an HD channel to a standard VCR? I would think the TV can create SVIDEO to the VCR, right?

Actually, there doesn't appear to be ANY svideo output on the back of the TV...only a composite video and L/R audio. Kind of a bummer if you ask me...seems like an obvious oversight by Mits.

With regard to the other recording stuff - I just use Netcommand for the switching stuff - not recording - yet.

Thanks,
Jeff

rtmoore4

I've tweaked the adjustments in Powerstrip and have achieved no better results than you. Reduce 1 appears to be the best overall setting for the PC input. While it looks quite good, imo the PQ at the Reduce 1 setting is quite inferior to the Standard setting. Frustrating indeed.

This is a duplicate posting from the "Mits DLP 2004-2005" thread:

Got my 62525 yesterday and am very pleased. When I first installed it the color "red" was bing picked up as a muddy brown through all of my cable channels. X-box and menu system displayed the color but not my cable signal.
Make a long story short, after rebooting the Scientific Atlanta HD DVR box the problem was remidied (cable box problem not TV)...whew!

Again, I've only had it for 24 hours but I am very impressed. SD viewing was not so good at first but turning up "Noise Reduction", turning off "Defin Edge" and turning down sharpness the problem was remidied the nicely.

HD programing and X-box are sweet... beautiful in fact. Menu system is great. I also shot some photos at the bowling alley with some friends (with my 5 megapixel digital camera). The photos looked superb via the Compact Flash Card slot. You can even arrange a slide show for a specific set of photos and rotate veritcal photos before begining the slide show too.

Fan noise- not a problem at all, quiter than my X-Box.

Reset Problem- haven't experienced it !

Reflective Screen- More reflective than my Philips LCoS, a bit of an issue until I turn my lamps off but the glossy screen makes it look nice when its off. Also, you would be suprised what you overlook when viewing the beauty that is HD on this set. Again, mind blowing.

I posted some photos today on this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=418307&perpage=20&pagenumber=53

I have the Mits 52525. I am interested in getting a DVD Recorder and some of the newer models have 1394 inputs, mainly for DV Camcorders. I assume I can connect it to the Mits via 1394 and it should treat it just like a DVHS recorder.

Has anyone tried this set up yet?

Originally posted by falueta
I have the Mits 52525. I am interested in getting a DVD Recorder and some of the newer models have 1394 inputs, mainly for DV Camcorders. I assume I can connect it to the Mits via 1394 and it should treat it just like a DVHS recorder.

Has anyone tried this set up yet? I presume your intended recording method is to use the Mits NetCommand tuner/timer and send the video/audio from the Mits to the DVD recorder?

1) I know of no DVD recorders that support transport controls via firewire (play, record, stop), nor ones that will power up via a firewire command.

2) I know of no DVD recorders that will accept MPEG video input over firewire. Some will accept DV video format over firewire, like from a camcorder, but that format is not generated or understood by the Mits.

Your only option is to use the IR blasters, teach the Netcommand how to manipulate your DVD recorder via the remote, and use the composite video jack (monitor video) output from the TV as the recording input to the DVD recorder. Lots of hassle and restrictions if you ask me.... Firewire is not in this scenario.

Regarding the ability to make digital recordings of analog broadcasts, here is what the manual says....

Your TV is able to start and stop recordings automatically and send the signals from one external playback device to another external recording device. It is also able to convert digital channels and IEEE 1394 device signals to analog signals that can be recorded on NetCommand compatible analog VHS and S-VHS VCRs. You cannot record from an analog channel or device or a VHS or S-VHS VCR to a digital recording device such as a DVCR or A/V Disc. Also, if you select an analog channel, you will not be able to record to a digital device. You can schedule the recording to take place at a later time and program the recording duration for a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 6 hours (in 30 minute increments). The default is 1 hour.When a digital recording is being made, the TV will direct the signals to the recording device using the IEEE 1394 cable. When an analog recording is being made, the TV will direct signals to the recording using the monitor audio/video outputs.

I am seriously considering buying a mitsubishi D-VHS recorder... specifically the HD2000U. So to record analog channels, I will need to hook it up to the composite output on my TV and for digital recordings the firewire hookup will be used? Will mitsubishi's own D-VHS player be able to record in this manner? I need a new VCR and as long as I can record analog and digital, then that is all I need.

Although the manual is not quite clear, I think the intent is to prevent digital transmission via firewire from any analog source. They imply that you cannot record an analog channel to a digital recording device AT ALL... but I suspect what they really mean is that you cannot record on a digital recording device via firewire. In other words: firewire=digital recorder. But it seems like you should be able to record from analog sources (including analog TV channels on the Mits tuner) to a digital device as long as you're using the composite video "monitor out".

That said... You might notice the intentional differentiation between digital and analog recording devices in the NetCommand system. If their intention is to disallow digital recordings of analog sources, they might prevent any Netcommand-based recording from analog TV channels at all if the NetCommand interprets your device as a digital recorder. Even if you're using the composite video monitor-out. If all that is true, then I would think you'd need to fake it out somehow or not use Netcommand at all.

The manual makes several references to an "A/V Disc" device, but you'll notice there are no listed compatible A/V Disc devices with valid remote codes.... I suppose they could mean DVD recorders and/or TiVo-like hard disc based recorders. This could be a "future" thing because I suspect Mits equates this to a digital recording device which means firewire to them.

This is all speculation on my part, sorry I can't help more; I don't have a D-VHS device or DVD recorder to try this stuff out.

I just purchased a Mits 52525 and have a question about Picture in Picture. Given my digital cable box has a coax output and a s-video output, what is the best way to do the inputs? Get a s-video splitter and split the s-video feed to input-1 and input-2? Do you have to use the 'Main' cable input (coax)? I tried using both outputs (s-video to input-1; coax output to 'Main') and that didn't work. I guess you have to choose one or the other.

TIA

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Although the manual is not quite clear, I think the intent is to prevent digital transmission via firewire from any analog source. They imply that you cannot record an analog channel to a digital recording device AT ALL... but I suspect what they really mean is that you cannot record on a digital recording device via firewire. In other words: firewire=digital recorder. But it seems like you should be able to record from analog sources (including analog TV channels on the Mits tuner) to a digital device as long as you're using the composite video "monitor out".

That said... You might notice the intentional differentiation between digital and analog recording devices in the NetCommand system. If their intention is to disallow digital recordings of analog sources, they might prevent any Netcommand-based recording from analog TV channels at all if the NetCommand interprets your device as a digital recorder. Even if you're using the composite video monitor-out. If all that is true, then I would think you'd need to fake it out somehow or not use Netcommand at all.

The manual makes several references to an "A/V Disc" device, but you'll notice there are no listed compatible A/V Disc devices with valid remote codes.... I suppose they could mean DVD recorders and/or TiVo-like hard disc based recorders. This could be a "future" thing because I suspect Mits equates this to a digital recording device which means firewire to them.

This is all speculation on my part, sorry I can't help more; I don't have a D-VHS device or DVD recorder to try this stuff out.

Thanks for the input... the manual for the TV clearly states that if you connect a device such as a D-VHS deck via firewire, that you can make additional analog connections and set them up through netcommand. This is on pages 49 and 50 of the user manual. I can understand not allowing transferring analog channels over firewire since that would probably require an additional A/D converter plus MPEG2 encoder. But I think if the D-VHS deck is connected both to the analog inputs and the monitor output, then it should allow analog recordings one way or another.

Terp is correct. The 525 series does not have an analog to digital (or even a digital to mpeg2) encoder built into the set. i.e. the TV can tune into digital channels and pass the mpeg2 stream onto a firewire device for recording.

It CANNOT take the input from a mini dv camcorder or the input from an analog source and digitize it and send it over firewire.

The ability to encode analog and DV sources will be built into the upcoming 825 series (it has a built in DVR so it has to be able to digitize analog sources).

StrangeMan, I would recommend that you split the cable feed before it hits your cable box, send one feed to the cable box and the other to ant A. This will allow you to tune into the analog and QAM channels using the TV's tuner (and cable card channels if you choose to set this up). Hook the cable box output up to the TV using S-video if possible.

Originally posted by BigAl
Terp is correct. The 525 series does not have an analog to digital (or even a digital to mpeg2) encoder built into the set. i.e. the TV can tune into digital channels and pass the mpeg2 stream onto a firewire device for recording.

It CANNOT take the input from a mini dv camcorder or the input from an analog source and digitize it and send it over firewire.

The ability to encode analog and DV sources will be built into the upcoming 825 series (it has a built in DVR so it has to be able to digitize analog sources).


So do you think this setup will work to record analog channels and digital channels from the internal tuner/cablecard out to a mitsubishi D-VHS deck:

TV firewire <---> D-VHS Firewire

TV Monitor Out ----> D-VHS Composite input

TV L/R Audio Out ----> D-VHS L/R Audio In

TV Composite In <----- D-VHS Composite video out

TV L/R Audio In <------ D-VHS L/R Audio Out

I am thinking that the digital hookup is straightforward and will work. But will I be able to record analog channels from the internal tuner out to the Monitor Output into the VCR? Also, I guess analog playback will use the VCR's analog composite output into the TV... Maybe I will just go ahead and get the Mits HD2000U... I can get it for a really good price from an online shop... I know it will work for digital, so if the analog doesn't work, a $70 VCR would do the trick.

Yep, I agree; should have read further. Makes sense that the TV does not have an encoder to create digital from analog.

On a related note, does anybody know of a DVD/HDD based recorder (or one that is in development) that will accept firewire A/V MPEG video input? The ones I can find only support firewire using the DV camcorder format.

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
TV Composite In <----- D-VHS Composite video out Looks good to me, except maybe use svideo here instead of composite?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Looks good to me, except maybe use svideo here instead of composite?

yes :)


just thought of that as soon as I posted... the HD2000U supports S-VHS :D

I just had an ISF certified tech here to look at my Mits for some warranty work (tilt & green issues, see the 2004-2005 Mits DLP thread). I had intended to have ISF calibration done on the set. But the tech said there isn't really much you can do to calibrate these sets. He said he'd basically do only the final steps of the calibration. He said the final step in the calibration was to play the "Vertical Limit" DVD and freeze frame on a shot where the climber is in the foreground, and there is both snow and rock in the picture. Then you:
1) adjust contrast down to where you can just see the detail in the snow, no higher.
2) adjust the brightness to where you can just see the detail in the rocks.
3) set color to low (warm), tint at center (31), and adjust color to get good skin tone.
4) Sharpness at 0, and DefinEdge to your personal preference.

Oh yeah, and this one came as a surprise to me. He said to run your NTSC souces with color temp set to high instead of low. This is because of a tendency to push reds in NTSC. Running at high color temp adds more blue which should bring back better flesh tones.

That's about it. He claimed the majority of ISF is aimed at CRT displays.

Agreement? Disagreement? I wonder what UMR would say?

Originally posted by HTBruceM
... I wonder what UMR would say?

Sounds pretty sloppy. I would guess he knows very little about how to calibrate that set.

Originally posted by umr
Sounds pretty sloppy. I would guess he knows very little about how to calibrate that set. UMR, that's what I thought you'd say :)

Anybody out there in the Portland area who can recommend someone for quality ISF calibration? PM me.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
UMR, that's what I thought you'd say :)

Anybody out there in the Portland area who can recommend someone for quality ISF calibration? PM me.

You might want to wait a little while. I would only get someone who knew for certain how to calibrate this set and had access to a service manual.

Good suggestion. Even if the guy has access to one, I doubt he's gotten into it in any meaningful way.

Guess I should interpret "Not much we can do" into "I don't know how to adjust anything yet".

Either way, they're shotgunning the light engine to try and fix an alignment issue; no sense in calibrating now and then lose everything back to factory defaults.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
That's about it. He claimed the majority of ISF is aimed at CRT displays.
Did it look better after he left than it did when he got there?

-jb

Originally posted by jBeach
Did it look better after he left than it did when he got there?

-jb No. All of his time went into the light engine alignment adjustments to try and fix some nonlinearity I'm having. Check the "2004-2005 Mits DLP" thread for details. Don't want to cover that issue here because its really off topic.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Oh yeah, and this one came as a surprise to me. He said to run your NTSC souces with color temp set to high instead of low. This is because of a tendency to push reds in NTSC. Running at high color temp adds more blue which should bring back better flesh tones.

That's about it. He claimed the majority of ISF is aimed at CRT displays.

Agreement? Disagreement? I wonder what UMR would say?

This guy needs to go back to class. Every display technology will benefit from calibration. DLP's have all the same front panels controls as CRT's. Contrast, brightness, color, sharpness. They have color decoders that need to be checked for accuracy, grayscales that need adjustments, and gamma adjustments.

He was really trying to say that he had no idea how to work on your set at all and probably any set for that matter. From his response it sounds like he wouldn't even know how to calibrate a CRT.

And telling you to run everything on high temp... this guy is a joke. The mits DLP's actually don't have as much red push as their CRT sibblings. I haven't checked the percentages with patterns, but it looks like the red push is very minimal.

DLP's can respond very well to a good calibration and I would recommend it. Just make sure you find a qualified calibrator. One who preferably uses real test patterns to make adjustments and not just movie scenes.

Originally posted by gr8erimage
And telling you to run everything on high temp... this guy is a joke. The mits DLP's actually don't have as much red push as their CRT sibblings. I haven't checked the percentages with patterns, but it looks like the red push is very minimal. As I recall, he was not claiming the set was emphasizing reds; said something about the NTSC being more towards the red due to the number of times those broadcasts are typically taped before broadcast. His preference is to use the mostly live broadcasts for color settings, like the shopping channels. So for the majority of SD NTSC broadcasts, you'll get more lifelike colors by going to medium or high color temp. For DVDs, he said run at low temp.

Also, he indicated the "final" step in calibration was to run the DVD and check/adjust from there.

In retrospect, I think his real intent was to talk me out of the calibration because of the need for warranty work to be done first. He said many settings will go back to factory defaults after major servicing and the ISF calibration would be lost.

HTBruceM, you had asked earlier about firewire recording devices.

Hit the HDTV recorder forum... there are two I know of that they have discussed over there. One is the RCA DVR10... it's essentially an external harddrive, reasonably priced (around $400) but very limited in capability. There is also a PC based firebus recording option from vividlogic.

I haven't tried either one... although I'd like to.

Originally posted by delar
rtmoore4

I've tweaked the adjustments in Powerstrip and have achieved no better results than you. Reduce 1 appears to be the best overall setting for the PC input. While it looks quite good, imo the PQ at the Reduce 1 setting is quite inferior to the Standard setting. Frustrating indeed.

I have an update on this...

I got the bright idea to take a VGA breakout cable (VGA on one end, RGB+HV on the other) and connect it to the Input-DTV input. In this way, I can play with PS settings all I want, because the TV will not try and recognize a 1024x768 signal on this input like it does when I get too far out of the front and rear porch settings for a 720p signal. This input is only looking for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i.

Indeed, it does work. I can get it to display with no overscan (vertical or horizontal). The problem is that the PQ (especially the text) is actually much worse than just using the VGA connection at 720p resolution with the Reduce1 format setting on the TV. I don't know why this is, as I thought both VGA and RGB+HV were analog connections and comparable in quality. Does anyone else know?

My next thought would be to get a video processor/converter box to take the 720p signal from the PC and turn it into a standard component signal (Y/Pb/Cr). I would bet the PQ would suffer in this way as well, though. It looks like we may just be stuck with the Reduce1 setting after all. I'm not quite willing to give up yet, but I'm getting closer.

This should probably really be posted in the HTPC forum, but it follows up on previous posts in this thread, so I just posted it here.

Originally posted by rtmoore4
I have an update on this...

I got the bright idea to take a VGA breakout cable (VGA on one end, RGB+HV on the other) and connect it to the Input-DTV input. In this way, I can play with PS settings all I want, because the TV will not try and recognize a 1024x768 signal on this input like it does when I get too far out of the front and rear porch settings for a 720p signal. This input is only looking for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i.

Indeed, it does work. I can get it to display with no overscan (vertical or horizontal). The problem is that the PQ (especially the text) is actually much worse than just using the VGA connection at 720p resolution with the Reduce1 format setting on the TV. I don't know why this is, as I thought both VGA and RGB+HV were analog connections and comparable in quality. Does anyone else know?

My next thought would be to get a video processor/converter box to take the 720p signal from the PC and turn it into a standard component signal (Y/Pb/Cr). I would bet the PQ would suffer in this way as well, though. It looks like we may just be stuck with the Reduce1 setting after all. I'm not quite willing to give up yet, but I'm getting closer.

This should probably really be posted in the HTPC forum, but it follows up on previous posts in this thread, so I just posted it here.

I appreciate the effort. I'm learning to live with the overscan in the Standard mode, having moved the Windows toobar to the right hand side of the screen and resizing all my windows to fill the rest of the screen. When I reboot, all the windows open to the size they were last left at. Sure, it's not perfect, but I'd prefer to look at this than the Reduce 1 view. Now all I have to fix is that darn tilt :rolleyes:

Anybody got a suggestion for getting the discrete I/R codes (power-OFF) for various components into the Mits NetCommand?

My JVC vcr, Pioneer DVD, and Moto 6200 STB only have one power button, so I cannot learn the "power off" I/R code. I'd like to avoid having to buy some expensive third-party "smart" remote to use temporarily to teach NetCommand how to do this.

I've been wondering the same thing. I don't have a programmable universal remote either. I know there is a program that exists for palm pilots that can use it's IR transmitter to send commands and have thought about using it somehow to send the commands but I haven't looked into it any further. I do already have a palm pilot, but if you don't own one this isn't much of a better solution. Maybe you can track down a friend that does? :)

Another option would be to build a simple IR transmitter that hooks to a PC serial port. I have built an IR receiver which wasn't too difficult so I don't think the transmitter should be too hard, but I am a EE by profession so if that's not your thing you could probably find one to buy for $20-$40 on-line which is cheaper than a programmable universal remote.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Anybody got a suggestion for getting the discrete I/R codes (power-OFF) for various components into the Mits NetCommand?

My JVC vcr, Pioneer DVD, and Moto 6200 STB only have one power button, so I cannot learn the "power off" I/R code. I'd like to avoid having to buy some expensive third-party "smart" remote to use temporarily to teach NetCommand how to do this.

I'm a netcommand & RPTV newbie so bear with me, but what functionality are u missing by just using the setups that netcommand provides? - is it the ability to turn off individual components without turning off everything?

As far as the Pioneer DVD is concerned, I do have an issue with the FF button on the mits remote - it loops thru the 4 FF modes when I hit the button just once.

Is it possible to use both the included setups AND learn mode with netcommand for a given device, or if you want to use learn do u just have to choose Other for the device type?

Originally posted by Rufhausen
is it the ability to turn off individual components without turning off everything? Sometimes other people in the house will use other remotes to turn stuff on/off, and this gets NetCommand "out of sync".

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Sometimes other people in the house will use other remotes to turn stuff on/off, and this gets NetCommand "out of sync".

Actually my netcommand stays in sync pretty well, but I have discrete codes for all my components (thanks to remotecentral.com). I also have a universal remote (Philips Pronto NG, and I used it to train Netcommand with the discrete codes).

Yeah, that is a pain... I do wish there was a simple way to import pronto hex into Netcommand.

The least expensive way I know of is to buy a cheap one-for-all or radio shack remote and a JP1 cable. Bluedo has remote/cable packages for under $40.

The topic of DefinEdge came up over in the main Mits 525 thread and it was suggested to bring this topic here so here I am posting again. :) I was wondering what others out there have DefinEdge set to and why you chose that setting? After calibrating with Avia I decided that it should be left off but from time to time I still sit there and flip it on/off while watching some things. I'm also wondering about the "Video Noise" option too. Using the sharpness setting test pattern in Avia I ended up setting this one to "Reduced". I don't claim to be an expert and as far as calibrating goes, I'm still in new territory so I guess I'm looking for some feedback to see if I'm on the right track.

Does anyone out there have a better idea of what these do? Any recommendations for setting them? Would the settings be different for different video inputs? ie. DVD / HDTV / console games etc? I have been wondering about this for a while and this post finally reminded me to post about it. Thanks for any info you guys can give!

I switch DefinEdge on/off depending on the source. Some things improve with it ON, but other things look better with it OFF.

For example, on ESPD-HD... When they switch to the 4:3 screen and they put the white vertical lines that spell "HD" in the pillarbox area... These vertical lines tend to flicker/shimmer when DefinEdge is on. That said, DefinEdge=ON is really nice on ESPN-HD when they're on 16:9 mode. Like tonight's Sunday Night Football... It just looks stunning and very sharp. Same on most HD channels. In my setup, I get HD from a Moto 6200 STB, set to output 720p; hooked to the DTV input on the Mits.

I don't like what DefinEdge does to crappy analog channels; it makes them even more grainy. But I have turned it ON when viewing some analog channels that are really good quality.


On a slightly different topic, here's what I had to do to get my SMTE color bars tweaked using DVE...

PerfectColor settings:
Magenta: 32
Red: 39
Yellow: 42
Green: 35
Cyan: 29
Blue: 40

Video settings:
Color: 30
Tint: 28
Temp: Low
Contrast: 29
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 0

Bear in mind these were using an older Pioneer DVD player that only does 480i, on component-1 input.

And BTW... I should note the DVD player has three different video settings, Cinema, Animation, and Standard. I used the "Cinema" setting; I did not try to recalibrate using Standard. I think standard raises the black level quite a bit.

I want to try calibrating the color settings using the smte color bars pattern from the service menu. I plan to use the three color filters that came with the DVE disc.

Has anyone figured out how to display the test patterns from the service menu while you adjust the perfectcolor settings and the general video settings such as color/tint/bright/contrast? It does not seem that you can do it... Perhaps you are supposed to set all the perfectcolor settings and video at 31 (50%) and adjust some other service menu setting?

Have the Mitz 52 and with Cox cable, when I go to the HD movie channels, and view a 16:9 movie I am getting letterbox effect. Spoke to COx and they say that is the way they see it as well and that it is "normal." I know on DVD players you have to set the output to 16:9 as astandard but there is not a selectable setting on the cable box. You can select Normal, Expand, and Zoom - neither fix the letterbox effect. I can zoom the TV display with the Mitz remote - but then all I am doing is blowing the picture up and essentially loosing the HD picture. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Matt

Originally posted by eujamfh
...I am getting letterbox effect. Spoke to COx and they say that is the way they see it as well and that it is "normal." What you are seeing is a source that is shot in something greater than 1.78:1 ratio. A lot of movies are shot in 2:35 and some even higher. That means they are significantly wider than what you can see in a 16:9 (1.78 ratio) screen.

There is a really good "sticky" post that explains it at the top of the RPTV topic, called "Widescreen TVs do NOT get rid of black bars totally".

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=332900

But howcome when I watch HBO HD or any of my other HD channels the Black bars are removed? (I have Comcast)

Well, well....makes sense. I wonder is Windtalkers as broadcast the other night on Showtime was indeed a wider version...

Originally posted by chaslum
But howcome when I watch HBO HD or any of my other HD channels the Black bars are removed? (I have Comcast)

The broadcasters cut part of the video off the sides and the top to make the movies fill the screen without distorting the aspect ratio. Similar to the process they do to convert movies to 4:3 fullscreen.

Native HD shows like Discovery HD are filmed in the proper aspect ratio for HDTV and don't have to be cut down, It's mostly just the movies that have different aspect ratios.

Well I tried setting up Netcommand today and am having a bit of trouble.

First thing is when I choose "DVD" it switches over, turns on my AVR and DVD player and the volume on the remote controls the AVR... Just what I'd expect. Great!

Now, I switch back over to the Sat and the Audio stays on the AVR. Granted, it switches the inputs on the AVR to the one I chose for "Monitor Output" from the TV, but I want to use the TV speakers for the Sat in this setup. I unchecked the audio box on the AVR in the Netcommand setup for the Sat but it still won't work. I have to highlight it in the device menu, then click "audio" on the remote, then in the upper right on the TV move to the "TV" audio setting. (This results in the AVR turning off also)

Am I missing something? Also, is the DVD player supposed to turn off?

So far I just trying to go back and forth between these two before I go any further.

Are you trying to setup a device one device to use the AVR for sound and another to always use the internal speakers? If so that can't be done... the audio setting (TV speakers or AVR) is not device specific.

It seems to have no problem switching from the TV's speakers to the AVR, I thought it would be able to switch back.

You should be able to switch it back... bring up the device menu, hit the audio button to go to the audio devices, select the TV speakers instead of the AVR. Is this not working for you?

Yeah, that works. I just thought that it should switch back to the TV speakers when I select the Sat on the device menu since that's how it's set up. Selecting the DVD switches to the AVR for the sound without having to go to the audio menu.

Having the audio destination setting (TV vs. AVR) be device-specific would be a really nice feature. Unfortunate that we don't have a good way to ask Mits to add this feature to a future firmware update.

It would be wonderful if someone with a service manual could post the meaning of all the service menu items. Each menu selection is abbreviated down to 2-4 letters which makes it very difficult to decipher.

Why do they do this? I suppose this is just part of the Mitsubishi intellectual property paranoia. Geez, they make you sign a license agreement just to update your TV with the latest software/firmware. Not even Microsoft makes you sign a license... :confused:

Doing my best to keep this thread alive and let the "blame game" thread die.....

I've been attempting to tweak the PerfectColor settings, using the color filters from the Digital Video Essentials DVD.

First of all, I notice a significant difference in the PerfectColor on-screen color bars and those off the DVE DVD. FYI, my DVD is an older Pioneer 480i connected via component.

I can't seem to get the greens just right without throwing off the reds. The conflict is on the YELLOW setting. I need to push the yellow pretty hard to get the green-filter view to look even. But that throws off the red-filter view. I need to pull back on the YELLOW setting to even out the red-filter view.

I really hope someone figures out all those service menu items. Hopefully we'll be seeing an "UMR does Mits DLP" thread soon ;)

Originally posted by HTBruceM

I really hope someone figures out all those service menu items. Hopefully we'll be seeing an "UMR does Mits DLP" thread soon ;)

That would be like Christmas here! Soon, I hope, soon...

I tried connecting a MiniDV camcorder via the firewire connection.

I can control the camcorder with the TV's remote but no audio or video shows up on screen. Since I can rip video off the firewire on the computer I would assume that video should transfer via firewire to the TV.

Anybody have any suggestions?

jparisi,

According to the owner's manual the firewire input only accepts mpeg data streams. The minidv camcorder firewire output isn't compatible.

I'm not completely clear on the usefuleness of firewire on this set. I understand that you can utilize it in place of IR blasters to allow Netcommand to control a device (and Netcommand might even know what device is being connected like plug-n-play, correct?).
I also have gotten the impression that it can be used with DVHS recorders to record HD content.
Is that it? I'm specifically interested in knowing if it's at all possible to utilize firewire with a computer to record HD content using either WinXP media edition or some over DVR software.
Forgive me if all of this has been covered already.

I have been playing around with this firewire stuff lately and have almost got it working to where I can record to my PC.

I have a SA3250HD box with firewire enabled, and recently put a firewire card in my pc to play with. If you read through the HDTV/Recorders forum you will find a lot of useful info there about recording and how to do it.

There is some software by VividLogic that will emulate an A/V DISC on your PC and you can watch / record TS streams to it. With a CableCard or OTA HD stations you can record directly from the Mits to the computer, but since the software for the PC isn't 5C enabled you won't be able to record copy protected content.

You can also use the TV to set up schedules for future recording between two other firewire devices, ie. from my STB to the PC.

Firewire is about the only solution to get at the original MPEG TS and record it. So far it's worked great for me to capture from any digital station that isn't copy restricted.

If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.

Ok, so I can't use it to watch video from a MiniDV Camcorder.

Let me ask this, when I first hooked up the camcorder via firewire the TV saw it as a camcorder. When it didn't output video I tried to set it up again by deleting the device and letting the TV re-discover it. Problem is, it nows sees it as a DVCR device, I can't get it to register as a camcorder again.

I just got a Samsung SIR-TS360 HD receiver for Directv and I'm having a problem with it using Netcommand remote inputs. When setting it up, I went directly to Learn mode. The learn process worked fine. However, I often have to hit the same button 3-4 times now before the receiver recieves the command.
I've not experienced this with any other device I've set up using Netcommand. I'm just not sure if it's the TV or the device that's having the issue.
The IR blaster thing is positioned properly in front of the receiver.
The receiver works great with it's own remote.

Anyone else run into this problem and have a solution?
Thx.

First thing I would try is a different IR blaster head. Maybe the one you have is faulty.

I set up a Xbox running at 720p but the overscan seems to great. Is there any way to adjust the overscan?

Originally posted by Rufhausen
....I often have to hit the same button 3-4 times now before the receiver recieves the command.....Anyone else run into this problem and have a solution?
Thx. I had the same thing happen and I repositioned the IR emitter and it cured my problem. Sometimes you think it's set up right, but they do have an odd emmision pattern, so you need to position it correctly. Being too close forces you into a smaller emission radius; sometimes positioning the IR emitter farther away will help.

Also make sure any spare emitters are not blasting away in the same vicinity. That can cause the receiving device to get confused. If you need to have 2 or more IR blasters in the same area in order to reach all your components, you may have to seperate them - or continue to reposition multiple emitters so they don't interfere with each other.

On a somewhat related note, I have found a significant "processing" delay when using Netcommand. Its almost as if the TV is busy doing other things and it takes a while for it to handle relaying the IR commands out to the IR emitters. For example, using Netcommand, when I browse my set top box program grid/guide, if I hold down the arrow key on the remote, it switches selections about once per second or so. But using the same remote and repeat-rate sending directly to the set top box (not using Netcommand), it flies through the selections at about 6-8 per second. Same behavior with the Mits remote and a Radio Shack JP-1 based learning remote. Another example is when using the VCR in Netcommand. We fast-forward through the commercials, and hit PLAY to slow down to normal speed. But it's pretty hard to know when to hit the PLAY button, because there is generally a couple seconds latency before the VCR actually receives the PLAY command. My wife has now resorted to pulling out the VCR remote just for this reason.

This is frustrating, but not a significant showstopper for me. I can always go with a Harmony or Home Theater Master or something like that. Too bad though, to waste all that Netcommand capability.

A couple more minor annoyances...
My 62525 has the tendency to change the channel on my HD receiver and directivo boxes to Ch. 3 whenever I turn on the TV. And I've noticed if I have the directivo box set as my PIP device it does it when I active PIP the first time.

Also, some digital channels using the OTA tuner have gotten mislabeled (8-1 listed as 13-1, etc.) after a while. And just today I lost all digital channels. I'm having to reset the tv and re-scan now.
I can use my HD receiver for OTA, but the picture looks better thru the tv tuner. (plus for this much $$$, I want EVERYTHING to work right. :) ).

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rufhausen
[B]A couple more minor annoyances...
My 62525 has the tendency to change the channel on my HD receiver and directivo boxes to Ch. 3 whenever I turn on the TV.

Yes Net command does that. It is a "feature". Seems more like a pain in the --- to me

Originally posted by Bruceko
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rufhausen
[B]A couple more minor annoyances...
My 62525 has the tendency to change the channel on my HD receiver and directivo boxes to Ch. 3 whenever I turn on the TV.

Yes Net command does that. It is a "feature". Seems more like a pain in the --- to me

What, may I ask, would be the benefit of such a "feature"?

Originally posted by Rufhausen
What, may I ask, would be the benefit of such a "feature"?

I have noticed that my Sony RDR-GX7 DVD recorder always seems to come up on channel 12 (my PBS cable channel). I think it is doing this because the Auto Clock is getting the time signal from this station...

Could this be related to your channel 3?

Originally posted by spiff72
I have noticed that my Sony RDR-GX7 DVD recorder always seems to come up on channel 12 (my PBS cable channel). I think it is doing this because the Auto Clock is getting the time signal from this station...

Could this be related to your channel 3?

No. I have nothing on channel 3 - which is part of the annoyance, since I always get a channel not found message. The first few times I immediately thought I had bigger issues.

I think NetCommand will always switch your STB to channel 3 because of the remote possibility you have a VCR connected in the RF path upstream of the STB.
wall ---> VCR ----> STB ----> TV
I don't recall any setting in NetCommand that would tell it you are connected in this fashion; so they just force the STB to channel 3 to be safe; because the VCR just MIGHT NOT be in TV mode, it might be in VCR mode, meaning it only generates channel 3 on its output.

My 62525 is connected to my Pioneer A/V receiver with the coaxial Dolby Digital output. I am getting frequent audio dropouts (video is fine). I've never had this problem with my Pioneer before on that input. Anyone else experiencing dropout problems. My DVD player is connected to the Pioneer by optical cable with no problems. My HD Tivo is currently being repaired so I can't test that.

I have my AV set up the same way with the coax. What I have noticed is that the dropouts seem to mostly occur during a high-def OTA broadcast when a commercial comes on or when the high-def broadcast comes back after a commercial. There is almost always a pause.

Also, I was using an RCA antenna which plugged in to increase the gain. I was getting alot of dropouts, then I unplugged the antenna from the electrical outlet and everything got noticably better.

Don't know if this will help, but you never know.

Sounds like your dropouts are audio and video. Mine is just audio. If I use the TV speakers, there are no dropouts at all. I guess I'll have to wait to get my Tivo back to see if I have a problem with it using the optical connection.

Benji, how are you receiving your original signal? Satellite? Cable? Antenna?

One suggestion to try.... I suspect the CPU in the Mits is underpowered. If there are significant tasks for it to handle, it can get "behind" on other tasks. If you are getting your main signal from cable or satellite, and you ALSO have an antenna connected (especially a poor one), try disconnecting the antenna. That might significantly reduce the CPU workload. My suspicion is the processor is trying to find local OTA channels, synchronize with the local OTA PBS station for setting time and getting the ChannelGuide data. By disconnecting the ANT, you are forcing the CPU to abort this algorithm much quicker because its not finding any RF carrier signal.

Same goes for other background activity you might think of.

FYI, my incoming signal is cable, and I also have a very good antenna signal. I have not noticed any dropouts on the coax bitstream output from the Mits.

I have an indoor antenna connected to ant-1 and apartment house (analog) cable to ant-2. When I get my Tivo back, it will go into HDMI, and I won't need the other 2 inputs. But I'd like to know if there is something wrong with the coaxial output. For the $$$, I'd like everything working properly.

Again, try disconnecting the antenna and see if that changes anything.

So you are not getting any high Definition except through the antenna? You might have HD on your cable already... the Mits is capable of getting that without a cablecard (for free HD only, like your local network channels). But to do that, you need to reverse your cable inputs... Take the cox cable and send it into Ant1, and the antenna into Ant2. The Mits will only support cable HD (QAM decoding) using Ant1 input.

My cable system is a 1970's analog system. No HD other than OTA until I get my Tivo back. I must say I am very impressed with the 2 (720p) OTA HD channels so far. ABC was amazing last night, although the SD from that station is inferior, and FOX looks amazing whether it be SD or HD. PBS looks pretty good as well as CBS, WB and NBC. Can't wait to see the NFL on FOX tomorrow. This will be the first time I will see a 720p sporting event, in 720p.

Benji,
From what you are saying, my guess is your audio dropouts are due to a crappy signal from your indoor antenna. Because the HD transmissions are almost always from the same tower as the older analog broadcasts, you can tune to some UHF analog channel from one of the same HD broadcasters in your area. If the signal is pretty bad on the analog side, there is a good chance your signal is crappy on the HD side as well. That is certain to result in audio dropouts and if its bad enough, video dropouts that result in pixelization.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Benji,
From what you are saying, my guess is your audio dropouts are due to a crappy signal from your indoor antenna. Because the HD transmissions are almost always from the same tower as the older analog broadcasts, you can tune to some UHF analog channel from one of the same HD broadcasters in your area. If the signal is pretty bad on the analog side, there is a good chance your signal is crappy on the HD side as well. That is certain to result in audio dropouts and if its bad enough, video dropouts that result in pixelization.

I agree...I have seen audio dropouts as well due to a marginal OTA signal. And it seems to me that the digital audio can be the first thing that will dropout in situations like that. Often, I can switch to the TV speakers, and this will clear up the problem.

When my Tivo was hooked up, the signal meter on all my digital channels had a strength of 80-90% with one exception and that was about 70%. I'm still thinking there is either a problem with the TV output or A/V coaxial input. My experience in the past has been that audio dropouts are accompanied by video dropouts simultaneously if the signal is bad. I'll just have to wait until I get my Tivo back and can test it.

Originally posted by Benji
When my Tivo was hooked up, the signal meter on all my digital channels had a strength of 80-90% with one exception and that was about 70%. I'm still thinking there is either a problem with the TV output or A/V coaxial input. My experience in the past has been that audio dropouts are accompanied by video dropouts simultaneously if the signal is bad. I'll just have to wait until I get my Tivo back and can test it.

When i said no video dropouts, that may be misleading - there might be a slight stutter in the picture when this happened, but it wouldn't be noticeable if the audio hadn't dropped out.

Originally posted by Benji
My cable system is a 1970's analog system. No HD other than OTA until I get my Tivo back. I must say I am very impressed with the 2 (720p) OTA HD channels so far. ABC was amazing last night, although the SD from that station is inferior, and FOX looks amazing whether it be SD or HD. PBS looks pretty good as well as CBS, WB and NBC. Can't wait to see the NFL on FOX tomorrow. This will be the first time I will see a 720p sporting event, in 720p.

Also, you might be surprised with your analog cable system. I never would have thought I would find any HD channels on mine ($14/MONTH basic cable), and I stumbled across them by dumb luck when I allowed the TV to scan for digital channels on my cable system (I had always stopped the TV from scanning the digital channels before since I didn't think there were any of them)...

You mileage may vary, as usual.

No chance. The cable system is run by the apartment complex I live in. They won't allow Comcast on the property. The only reason I have a satellite dish is because it's inside my bedroom window, which just happens to have clear line of sight to the D* sats. The cable connection is a regular coaxial (non-digital) connection. No boxes.

Have you moved your indoor antenna since you took your channel strength readings? You know how touchy RF can be with multipath reflections, interference, etc. Depending on the type of antenna, it can be extremely directional, so just having touched it or moved it slightly can have a big impact on the signal strength.

UMD_Terp... wasn't there a signal strength meter in the Mits SM somewhere? There was a posting (maybe in the Blame Game / Tilt issue thread...) about this. Seems like you guys were saying the strength meter updates only once every 5 seconds, so positioning of an antenna using it can be dicey (or at least it requires lots of patience...).

My antenna hasn't been moved. But it is also attached to my bedroom F38310 and the DTC-100 signals continue to be rock-solid.

So you SPLIT the RF signal from an indoor antenna between the Tivo (Mits for the moment) and the DTC-100? I would still question the quality of the RF input to the Mits before I would suspect a bad TV. I would be looking closely at the RG6 cabling and especially the connectors/grounds; you might have developed an intermittent in there somewhere on the side of the splitter that goes to the Mits. You could also try disconnecting the DTC-100 antenna input and connecting that to the Mits.

{edit} Just thought of this one... There were some firmware updates that improved the operation of the tuner. Perhaps there is a fix in one of those updates that addresses your dropouts. You might try giving the Mits support line a call - maybe they'll send you a firmware update on flash.

BTW, if you switch audio to the TV speakers instead of the A/V receiver, do the audio dropouts still persist? Previous poster said his went away when he did that. That would suggest something is indeed wrong with the TV.

Also, do they occur on all your digital channels equally?

Just some troubleshooting ideas to help you isolate the cause. All much easier than packing the TV into the box and taking it back...

My satellite box is capable of delivering everything in either 720p or 1080i regardless of the source - OR it can send everything to the TV in it's native resolution. However, if I use native mode, everytime I go to a channel for which the resolution changes, the TV displays an error message saying something about an invalid signal and checking the component connection (I'm at work and can't recall the exact message), even though the picture is coming in fine after the TV adjusts to the different resolution.
The message goes away eventually but is annoying while it's there.
Assuming I can't disable this error message, am I better off forcing everything to 720p OR 1080i?
And to make matters more confusing - in the service menu there is a setting for DTV input and I think the choices are 480i, 480p, 1080i, and AUTO. Since 720p is not a choice, does this mean the 62525 doesn't natively support it?
Forgive me if this is really basic, but I'm still an HD newbie.

Originally posted by Rufhausen
My satellite box is capable of delivering everything in either 720p or 1080i regardless of the source - OR it can send everything to the TV in it's native resolution. However, if I use native mode, everytime I go to a channel for which the resolution changes, the TV displays an error message saying something about an invalid signal and checking the component connection (I'm at work and can't recall the exact message), even though the picture is coming in fine after the TV adjusts to the different resolution.
The message goes away eventually but is annoying while it's there.
Assuming I can't disable this error message, am I better off forcing everything to 720p OR 1080i?
And to make matters more confusing - in the service menu there is a setting for DTV input and I think the choices are 480i, 480p, 1080i, and AUTO. Since 720p is not a choice, does this mean the 62525 doesn't natively support it?
Forgive me if this is really basic, but I'm still an HD newbie.

Interesting observation - I hadn't noticed the DTV Input option (is this in the Service Menu or the Option Menu)? I have no idea why 720P would not be there, as it is most definitely the NATIVE RESOLUTION of the display. All other resolutions would be internally scaled/upconverted to 720p.

I am assuming that your satellite box is connected to the DTV input? If so, I would suggest hooking it up to one of the other Component Video inputs (COMP-1 or COMP-2). I don't think that these inputs will display that error message as the TV adjusts itself to the different resolutions.

What sort of satellite box are you using, out of curiosity? I have a Dish Network 811 receiver, and I don't have a "pass thru" option - mine is set to 1080i currently, as this gives me the best picture for most channels (all 1080i channels). I have a macro in my home theater remote that will switch between them, and when you do switch, the display will get all wierd for a second or so, and then it will switch. I don't get any error messages, but I am connected to one of the non-DTV component video inputs. I have read somewhere that the DTV input is the only one that displays a message like that...

Hope this helps...

Originally posted by spiff72
Interesting observation - I hadn't noticed the DTV Input option (is this in the Service Menu or the Option Menu)? I am assuming that your satellite box is connected to the DTV input? If so, I would suggest hooking it up to one of the other Component Video inputs (COMP-1 or COMP-2).

What sort of satellite box are you using, out of curiosity? I don't get any error messages, but I am connected to one of the non-DTV component video inputs. I have read somewhere that the DTV input is the only one that displays a message like that...

Hope this helps...

I think it's in the menu that gives you the signal strength (menu 2-4-7-0 I think).
I'll try one of the other inputs.
My satellite box is a samsung SIR-TS360.
Thx.

I don't think that particular service menu is a "setting" you can change; I think that one is just "status".

Originally posted by HTBruceM
I don't think that particular service menu is a "setting" you can change; I think that one is just "status".

You're probably right, my recollections here at work can be a little fuzzy, especially since most of my tinkering is done late at night when I have the TV to myself. It's there somewhere.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
I don't think that particular service menu is a "setting" you can change; I think that one is just "status".

Mine must say AUTO then. Is this something that could tell you what type of feed you are seeing on OTA channels or digital HD cable channels?

There are settings that can be adjusted in the Menu - 2 - 4 - 7 - 0 menu... i switched one of them and lost all my cablecard channels... I switched it back and reset the TV to get them back.

Originally posted by spiff72

I am assuming that your satellite box is connected to the DTV input? If so, I would suggest hooking it up to one of the other Component Video inputs (COMP-1 or COMP-2). I don't think that these inputs will display that error message as the TV adjusts itself to the different resolutions.


You are correct. I switched to COMP-2 and do not get the error message. I'm not sure if I'll stick with Native mode or not. I'm not sure if I can tell a difference between the 3 choices:
1. native
2. converting everything to 1080i
3. converting everything to 720p
The downside to sticking with native is the delay when changing channels with one resolution to one with another. I'm sure the wife will eventually start asking questions about that.

Now on to my next question... Why is it that when I change from say ABC HD (720p) to CBS HD(1080i) using my satellite receiver (getting OTA signals), I get this delay and messed up picture for a few seconds while the resolution changes - but if I am using ANT-1 and switch between the same channels, this doesn't happen? Is everything automatically being converted to either 1080i or 720p if I'm using ANT-1 or ANT-2? If so, can we change this to show the native resolution somehow?

Originally posted by Rufhausen
You are correct. I switched to COMP-2 and do not get the error message. I'm not sure if I'll stick with Native mode or not. I'm not sure if I can tell a difference between the 3 choices:
1. native
2. converting everything to 1080i
3. converting everything to 720p
The downside to sticking with native is the delay when changing channels with one resolution to one with another. I'm sure the wife will eventually start asking questions about that.

Now on to my next question... Why is it that when I change from say ABC HD (720p) to CBS HD(1080i) using my satellite receiver (getting OTA signals), I get this delay and messed up picture for a few seconds while the resolution changes - but if I am using ANT-1 and switch between the same channels, this doesn't happen? Is everything automatically being converted to either 1080i or 720p if I'm using ANT-1 or ANT-2? If so, can we change this to show the native resolution somehow?

I think that when watching HD on the internal tuner, the TV does all of its "syncing" before the picture is displayed. When watching from the internal tuner, I am pretty sure EVERYTHING is converted/scaled to 720p as it is the native resolution of the TV. I called Mits and asked about this, as I wanted to see what all the channels were coming through as (720p/1080i, etc), and he put me on hold and then came back to say that the native resolution of the set was 720p (something I already knew :rolleyes: ).

I don't think the TV can technically display a native 1080i feed, since it uses a 720p chip. I al fairly comfortable with this, as I think the internal tuner seems to do a good job with all the formats I have watched in (FOX and ABC in 720p and NBC/CBS in 1080i). I am curious though about the way that the guts of the TV actually drive the display....

Does the internal tuner have a digital path to the display, or is it analog (like a component video connection)??

Thanks,
Jeff

Sorry for this noob question, but I just got my 62525 last Sunday and I'm here @ work so I cannot reference my manual. So I'll just ask my question here:
To set-up netcommand, you need to use the IR cables right? Secondly, the devices to which netcommand is setup, each device needs to have an IR plug? If so, only my HD box has it, my dvd, vcr, & receiver don't have this. Thanks.

Oh, and I have nothing but LOVE for this set.

Originally posted by Simon2150
Sorry for this noob question, but I just got my 62525 last Sunday and I'm here @ work so I cannot reference my manual. So I'll just ask my question here:
To set-up netcommand, you need to use the IR cables right? Secondly, the devices to which netcommand is setup, each device needs to have an IR plug? If so, only my HD box has it, my dvd, vcr, & receiver don't have this. Thanks.

Oh, and I have nothing but LOVE for this set.

You use the IR cables, but you just need to place them so that the IR receiving eye on each component can grab the signal. You con't need an IR plug on each component.
I believe Netcommand also can utilize firewire in lieu of IR.

Originally posted by spiff72

I don't think the TV can technically display a native 1080i feed, since it uses a 720p chip. I al fairly comfortable with this, as I think the internal tuner seems to do a good job with all the formats I have watched in (FOX and ABC in 720p and NBC/CBS in 1080i).

Thanks,
Jeff

So basically, if I set up the HD receiver to convert everything to 1080i and I'm watching ABC/FOX/ESPNHD, then the signal is being converted from 720p to 1080i in the HD receiver and then back again to 720p by the TV?
The TV is telling me that it's receiving source material in 1080i, but I'm not really seeing 1080i?
So I guess then if you own a set with a 720p chip, you can never really do a true comparison between 720p and 1080i.
Would the conventional wisdom then be for people who own this to set up HD sat. receivers or cable boxes to output everything @ 720p to avoid the causing the TV to do any additional conversion?

Anybody had a problem of what appears to be a dead mirror pixel?? On my set, in the upper right corner, I have a black circular dot, that is all within one pixel. It touches all sides of the pixel. I'm wondering if this is a dead mirror, and if I should swap the set out for another????

Originally posted by Rufhausen

Also, some digital channels using the OTA tuner have gotten mislabeled (8-1 listed as 13-1, etc.) after a while. And just today I lost all digital channels. I'm having to reset the tv and re-scan now.
I can use my HD receiver for OTA, but the picture looks better thru the tv tuner. (plus for this much $$$, I want EVERYTHING to work right. :) ).

Emailed Mitsu tech support about this a couple of days ago and just got a call to let me know that they are sending out new firmware to fix this. I mentioned in my email that I already had the .02 firmware, so I'm assuming this is newer than that.

Originally posted by Rufhausen
So basically, if I set up the HD receiver to convert everything to 1080i and I'm watching ABC/FOX/ESPNHD, then the signal is being converted from 720p to 1080i in the HD receiver and then back again to 720p by the TV?

Yes.

The TV is telling me that it's receiving source material in 1080i, but I'm not really seeing 1080i?

Yep.

So I guess then if you own a set with a 720p chip, you can never really do a true comparison between 720p and 1080i.

Correct (in my humble opinion).

Would the conventional wisdom then be for people who own this to set up HD sat. receivers or cable boxes to output everything @ 720p to avoid the causing the TV to do any additional conversion?

Not necessarily. It seems that the scalars and conversion systems in some TV's do a better job than those in STB's and SAT receivers. This is why I prefer to have my Dish 811 receiver set at 1080i for the channels that do 1080i broadcast, since the picture looks better to me than if I set it to do 720p. If I watch things like Discovery HD with the sat receiver on 720p it looks softer and tends to have vertical lines. I haven't watched enough 720p broacast material over the dish to say that it looks better with the Dish Receiver set to output 720p, but I suspect that it the case...

Basically it is better to allow the Dish receiver to send through the feed unaltered, and let the TV do the conversion. At least this is my theory until I can watch ESPN HD for an extended time as see how it looks.

Hope this clarifies things.

Jeff

Originally posted by technik
Anybody had a problem of what appears to be a dead mirror pixel?? On my set, in the upper right corner, I have a black circular dot, that is all within one pixel. It touches all sides of the pixel. I'm wondering if this is a dead mirror, and if I should swap the set out for another????

My set has a dead pixel, right in the middle near the top. I only noticed it when walking by the set while it was on a blue screen & I was about a foot away from the screen. While actually watching anything on the tv, I can't see it.

Think of it this way. One of the pixels is not illuminating but the other 921,599 are, correct? Would you really take back a set for that? ;)

Quick question to all Mits **525/**725 owners out there...

What DVD player do you have hooked up, how is it hooked up, and how would you rate the PQ?

Right now I have a Malata DVP-520 via component and Denon 1910 via DVI-to-HDMI. Denon 1910 I can't even judge because the green push is so bad it's distracting. I couldn't fix it w/o screwing up all colors.

Malata DVP-520 is a mixed bag. I was hoping the Denon 1910 would show me that the Malata sucks and I new DVD player would give me much better PQ, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

As it stands right now, if DVD keeps looking how it's looking, I might very well be trading the set back.

Just wondering how others are faring and perhaps I can get some insight/recommendations as to my plight.

I have a 4 yr old Sony DVD (non Prog Scan) hooked up via component and it looks great. I will probably hold off until Blu-Ray comes out before upgrading again...

I am looking at the Denon 2910. Seems like it will be much better than the 1910, but still reasonably priced. The jump to the 3910 is a bit steep. Also, there is going to be a new panasonic upconverting player out soon... looks promising as well.

I have a Pioneer 578A-S that I purchased right after I got the 62525 to replace an older, non-progressive Sony. I've been pleased the the PQ so far.

Originally posted by Reynard
My set has a dead pixel, right in the middle near the top. I only noticed it when walking by the set while it was on a blue screen & I was about a foot away from the screen. While actually watching anything on the tv, I can't see it.

Think of it this way. One of the pixels is not illuminating but the other 921,599 are, correct? Would you really take back a set for that? ;)


No dont think I would take it back for that.....might exchange it though......but if I got one within a month, how many will die within a year???? BTW.... I DO love this set, and wouldnt go with another..

According to the TV's warranty, Mitsubishi will warrant that 99.99% of the pixels operating. This means that less than .01% of pixels being stuck are not covered. This means that if you have greater than 92 pixels dead/stuck, Mitsubishi will cover it. (1280*720*.01% = 92.16 pixels)

Originally posted by UMD_Terp
I am looking at the Denon 2910. Seems like it will be much better than the 1910, but still reasonably priced. The jump to the 3910 is a bit steep. Also, there is going to be a new panasonic upconverting player out soon... looks promising as well. Ditto, I'm in exactly the same situation as you. Older 480i player, but looks pretty damn good. 1910 had way to much macroblocking visible on the Mits. Waiting for the 2910 to show up. Not totally sold on the HDMI, might go with component if the player has really good processing.

Originally posted by HTBruceM
Ditto, I'm in exactly the same situation as you. Older 480i player, but looks pretty damn good. 1910 had way to much macroblocking visible on the Mits. Waiting for the 2910 to show up. Not totally sold on the HDMI, might go with component if the player has really good processing.

If the deinterlacing and 3:2 pulldown is any indication of things, the upscaling in the TV is probably very good even over component. A very good 480p player over component may look nearly as good as it's upconverted HDMI counterpart. I think a local store here has the 2910 available now. I may just go ahead and check it out soon...

I'm using a Momitsu v880 DVD player because of its ability to upconvert over component. It produces a great picture, however it's the only DVD player I've ever connected to the 62525.

If I ever free up the HDMI port, or get a DVI/HDMI switch, I'm also thinking about a Denon 2910 player... for pretty much the exact reasons UMD_Terp mentioned in a message above.

My initial plans were to go with a CableCard for the cable to free up the HDMI port... CableCard issues, plus reluctance to give up the cable menu system, might have squelched that option for me...

-jb

I posted this in the wrong thread (the Rest problem thread) - so here it is in its rightful location...

Hey Mits owners...

I am playing around with ways to record HD off the Mits DLP, and I am trying to understand what I think is odd functionality in the self timer...

I read the manual, and it says you can set the TV to turn on the TV at a predetermined time and date and switch to a device/channel. Sounds like a great way to do unattended recording with my PC and the firewire connection (if I set the PC to record at a certain time). The rub is that the TV asks you to push a button within 5 minutes or it will turn itself back off!

Not such a good thing for what I want it to do. This is why I would have liked to get netcommand to work with the TV, since it would have allowed for unattended recording if I understand it right.

I can understand that the TV would want to turn back off to preserve lamp life, but it would have been cool to record this way...

Does anyone know fit here is a way to "cheat" and somehow use netcommand to get the tv to turn on long enough to do a recording? Maybe by setting up a "dummy" VCR or something?

Thanks,
Jeff

As I understand it, this sort of timer recording can be done with netcommand, but do I need to add a non-existent VCR to one of the non-component video inputs via netcommand to make this work?

Thanks again,
Jeff

If you set the TV to record via the 1394 connection, the TV does not turn on. It only sends the programmed channel to the VCR and starts the VCR recording. The TV is off until you manually turn it on.

Originally posted by Benji
If you set the TV to record via the 1394 connection, the TV does not turn on. It only sends the programmed channel to the VCR and starts the VCR recording. The TV is off until you manually turn it on.

But as far as the TV knows, the recording will be analog (since I don't want to set up a DVCR)? Again, I am just trying to figure out if I just need to go through the motions setting up an analog VCR in Netcommand on the monitor output connection, but to not actually connect anything....

If I do the above, will the TV still allow you to select a DIGITAL OTA station, will the TV still stay off, and will it still send the firewire stream even if it thinks it is recording via the analog monitor output?

Thanks again,
Jeff

Sorry, I dosed off (stayed up to the wee hours watching the Sox last night). I can only answer pertaining to the 1394 connection. I haven't done the analog VCR connection.

Got the Zenith 318 recently. Very impressed with the upconverting over component. Seabiscuit was amazing.

I have been noticing the increasing appearance of dusty spots on my TV screen. They appear to be behing the viewing screen, (not the pop-off cover). Is anyone else experiencing this and if so, is there a quick fix?

Chas.

Anyone come up with new settings? Wondering if anyone got their set ISF'ed and how close it was to any of the 3 listed in this thread.

Thanks!

Anyone come up with new settings? Wondering if anyone got their set ISF'ed and how close it was to any of the 3 listed in this thread.

Would also like an answer to this question.

We picked up a 62525 last night - initial impressions were pretty good, but the images appear to be too dark and perhaps too green. We observe this in all modes of operation - would have been ok with issues for pure SD off the analog cable, but we see the same trouble with 16:9 HD signal using off-air antenna.

While watching "The Matrix" on DVD everything seems very green, and flesh tones look faded.

What is the concensus opinion about brightness and this particular unit? I'm willing to invest time, effort, $, etc., into getting it properly calibrated and set up. On the other hand, if brightness is a known issue, then perhaps we made a purchase mistake :-(.

Thanks,
--CCG

Most of the Matrix was filmed with a filter over the camera to give the scenes from within the Matrix a sickly, computer-green tone. I wouldn't look to the Matrix on DVD to give an accurate representation of the color fidelity of a TV. Also, you might try color settings in the PerfectColor adjustment screen. I've also found that simply switching color temp from "normal" to "warm" is a big step towards correctness with my 52525.

Originally posted by ccgillett
We picked up a 62525 last night - initial impressions were pretty good, but the images appear to be too dark and perhaps too green. We observe this in all modes of operation - would have been ok with issues for pure SD off the analog cable, but we see the same trouble with 16:9 HD signal using off-air antenna.

While watching "The Matrix" on DVD everything seems very green, and flesh tones look faded.

What is the concensus opinion about brightness and this particular unit? I'm willing to invest time, effort, $, etc., into getting it properly calibrated and set up. On the other hand, if brightness is a known issue, then perhaps we made a purchase mistake :-(.

Thanks,
--CCG

Actually, I'd guess that most would say the Mits DLP is very bright.

Try checking your settings against others on this forum. I believe there are some listed in the 525 and/or 725 owner's threads. If it still looks dark to you then perhaps you have a defective lamp?

Good luck!

Originally posted by chaslum
I have been noticing the increasing appearance of dusty spots on my TV screen. They appear to be behing the viewing screen, (not the pop-off cover). Is anyone else experiencing this and if so, is there a quick fix?

Chas.

I am having the exact same problem! I talked to Mits and they seemed not to have heard of this problem before. I have a 62725. What model do you have?

It is most noticable when the background is light (i.e. sky, hockey rink, etc...).

I hope that someone knows what to do about this issue. I am guessing that i will have to call out a tech.

Originally posted by spreidel23
I am having the exact same problem! I talked to Mits and they seemed not to have heard of this problem before. I have a 62725. What model do you have?

It is most noticable when the background is light (i.e. sky, hockey rink, etc...).

I hope that someone knows what to do about this issue. I am guessing that i will have to call out a tech.


I just logged on to this forum because I'm getting what I think are dusty spots also.

Anybody have a recommendation? I was thinking pulling the lamp and blowing some air in there, but who knows, that could make it worse!

Jay

I have already had a tech out to assist me with this issue:

He helped me detach the front of the TV and we used windex and some cloth to wipe down the mirror closest to the front of the TV. It was covered with dust and was easy to clean off. This remidied the problem...for now. Pulling the cover off the front will require 2 people and you also have to detach the wires behind grill:

IMPORTANT:
So, you have to not only detach the screws around the back of the set, but remove the snap off grill and unscrew the center panel to unplug the wires that connect the tv buttons on the screen to the tv set.

Apparently the Mits are subject to contamination and this could be a bi-annual process to keep your set clean.

Still loving the set but this pisses me off to no end.

I'm not sure I'd use windex inside the TV. There must be some other cleaner product that is better for this. Windex tends to leave a film on everything it touches.

Well, the tech suggested Windex because apparenty Mitsubishi cited a "sticky film" that was present on the mirror of some of the models as a reason for dust collecting. The Tech's request for Windex threw up a red-flag for me too. Just make sure you follow up the windex with a dry cloth to get rid of any streaks and it'll be ok.

Personally, I think the "sticky-film on the mirror" explanation is a BS explanation for a contamination issue they are having...

Why do I know? Because my spots are begining to re-emerge and I KNOW there is no sticky film on my mirror.

Chas.

Great,

I guess that stupid filter on the side is not doing it's job.

Perhaps there are other sources for air that need to be filtered.

Do you think a tech should do it, or is it doable for two people?

Try removing the filter panel and see if the filter is aligned properly. I noticed that it is very easy for the filter to become misaligned when you replace that panel. The bottom of the filter is where most of the air gets drawn in due to the design of the intake. And that is also the place where it is easiest to get a bow in the filter that will let unfiltered air into the TV.

I don't know how widespread this issue is, but perhaps there is some truth behind the sticky film thing. I have had my Mits since August 04, and I have seen NO evidence whatsoever of dust or smudges on my TV (knock on wood). I haven't taken the filter cover off at all. You are referring to the one that is on the left side, right near tha back edge of the cabinet, right?

I don't think my house is exceptionally clean, either!

Jeff

I have a WD-62525 and had it serviced by an authorized Mits dealer on the 10th March for dust issues. Here is what I found:

1. The filter toward the back on the left side of the set, while facing it, gets dust build up. Wash and dry this filter every 60 days. The fan will push dirt through.

2. The front screen is easily removed by the screws on the back of it. Seven screws I believe. Remove the front facade panel, take off the screws around the speakers and cover of the light engine and remove this second panel, disconnect the logic control connector for the front panel LEDs, and then pull the screen off. I think someone has posted part of all of the service manual in one of the Mits DLP related threads on this forum. This is VERY EASY to do.

3. The small mirror gets dust build up on it as well as the cavities on the left and right of it. Use a compressed air can and blow the dust out from the cavities and mirror, and at the same time use a vacuum with a dust brush and suck up the dust floating around.

4. Clean the small mirror and lens in front of the light engine using a non-ammonia based cleaner or photographic lens cleaner and lens cloth. DO NOT USE WINDEX AND PAPER TOWELS. If there are any special coatings on the lens and mirror you may damage them.

5. I noticed that the smudges I had were gone and the screen was slightly brighter.

yeah, what he said...

But its been only 11 days... I would like to hear your feedback in 3 months.

chaslum,

I'll probably be doing this every 90 days is what my guess is. In the OKC area, where I live, it is relatively dry and although I try to change filters on the furnace and keep the house clean, dust still builds up.

I'm in humid Washington DC. I also have a pretty shaggy dog which doesn't help. Oh yea, and I only have a cleaning lady come by once every 3 months or so. doh!

Next time I do it I'll go in there with a vaccumm of some sort too. Good idea.

Chas

Originally posted by rsg_1
chaslum,

I'll probably be doing this every 90 days is what my guess is. In the OKC area, where I live, it is relatively dry and although I try to change filters on the furnace and keep the house clean, dust still builds up.

Great, just what I always wanted, a high-maintenance TV, it's bad enough having a wife!

Plus, I live on a dirt road, this sucks!

Could be worse, you could have a Samsung!

bwahahaha!

Any feedback on people that have attempted this procedure? I have several smudges myself. However, i think it is probably from dust that was in the set all along.


Originally posted by rsg_1
I have a WD-62525 and had it serviced by an authorized Mits dealer on the 10th March for dust issues. Here is what I found:

1. The filter toward the back on the left side of the set, while facing it, gets dust build up. Wash and dry this filter every 60 days. The fan will push dirt through.

2. The front screen is easily removed by the screws on the back of it. Seven screws I believe. Remove the front facade panel, take off the screws around the speakers and cover of the light engine and remove this second panel, disconnect the logic control connector for the front panel LEDs, and then pull the screen off. I think someone has posted part of all of the service manual in one of the Mits DLP related threads on this forum. This is VERY EASY to do.

3. The small mirror gets dust build up on it as well as the cavities on the left and right of it. Use a compressed air can and blow the dust out from the cavities and mirror, and at the same time use a vacuum with a dust brush and suck up the dust floating around.

4. Clean the small mirror and lens in front of the light engine using a non-ammonia based cleaner or photographic lens cleaner and lens cloth. DO NOT USE WINDEX AND PAPER TOWELS. If there are any special coatings on the lens and mirror you may damage them.

5. I noticed that the smudges I had were gone and the screen was slightly brighter.

Nobody brave enough to try this themselve?
I'm not, at least not yet.

I have the MITs 52725. I also have a Pioneer 1014 receiver. Quick question on hook up. What are the pros and cons of hooking up the cable box to my receiver and then to the Mits? Right now I am going directly out of my cable box to the MIts.

I performed the lens and mirror cleaning yesterday. Very easy to do although it is a 2 man job to get the front screen off and back on.
I cleaned the lens of the light engine with compressed air. I used a photo cleaning cloth that I got in some Sony camera years ago for the primary mirror. My 52525 is 6 months old and the primary mirror was filthy. I used a flashlight and shined it at an angle to the mirror to gauge my success in cleaning. When I saw the amount of "junk" on the primary mirror and then guessed it was being enlarged by about a factor of ten when it hit the secondary mirror and that image was enlarged about 30 percent as it hit the viewing screen, it became easy to see why a bunch of little bitty specks could really degrade your overall picture.
Anyway, I put it back together and the smudge at 10:00 o'clock was gone which is why I started this job. The by product was a noticeably brighter picture and improved overall resolution.
It took a total of about 10 minutes using an electronic screwdriver and the instructions posted above.
I would definitely recommend it and I will be repeating every 4-6 months.

Wow, finally got around to setting up NetCommand with my WD52725, Hughes D* TiVo, Denon 2805, and Toshiba DVD/VCR combo. Not quite as simple to do as Mits would like you to think, but after a lot of trial and error I've got it all working very well. Should be great for WAF vs. having to keep 4 remotes handy.

Two questions I'm hoping someone can help with:

First: I've seen this problem referenced by other people before, but never saw a solution mentioned. If I power up the TV and D* TiVo is the source at power-up, NetCommand has the STB unit change to channel 3, a non working channel. Not a critical issue as I an always change the channel back to whatever I need, but it bugs me just the same since I don't want it to do that! Anybody found a way to prevent this?

Second: after setting up some components, if I go back in to change configuration, I find the Audio and Video source menu's greyed out so that I can't change them. When I first set up the TiVo box, I goofed and entered TV as the AVR source to select, then had a heck of a time getting it fixed. Wound up completely deleting the setup and starting over. What causes the greying out, and is there a better way to get back in to change those options?

In answer to your first question:
I would recommend not using 'Hughes' as the manufacturer when setting up the D*TiVo STB in NetCommand. Instead choose 'Other' as the manufacturer. Then select 'Learn' and teach the TV the TiVo's remote codes from the STB's remote. This may solve the problem because Mits' codes for Hughes are old and could be causing the STB to switch to Ch. 3. Of course, if you had chosen "Other" in the setup and it is still happening I'm fresh out of ideas... :(

As for your next question:
NetCommand will not permit you to change the configuration of a Device if you are 'watching' that device. In other words, to change the TiVo box's configuration you have to be watching a different input. So choose the Ant-1 or DVD input and then go into NetCommand to change the configuration for the TiVo box and all the greyed out areas should be now available to change.

Originally posted by HDNW
In answer to your first question:
I would recommend not using 'Hughes' as the manufacturer when setting up the D*TiVo STB in NetCommand. Instead choose 'Other' as the manufacturer. Then select 'Learn' and teach the TV the TiVo's remote codes from the STB's remote. This may solve the problem because Mits' codes for Hughes are old and could be causing the STB to switch to Ch. 3. Of course, if you had chosen "Other" in the setup and it is still happening I'm fresh out of ideas... :(

As for your next question:
NetCommand will not permit you to change the configuration of a Device if you are 'watching' that device. In other words, to change the TiVo box's configuration you have to be watching a different input. So choose the Ant-1 or DVD input and then go into NetCommand to change the configuration for the TiVo box and all the greyed out areas should be now available to change.

1. The Tivo still changes channels when you set it up as other :(

2. I have run into the grayed out items when you are watching another input source. I don't remember which items these are...

Jeff

Thanks to all so far for the input.

I set everything up as OTHER so that I could learn the commands I wanted the remote to perform. With the functionality of the TiVo, it took some revision of the layout (and a guide taped to the back of the remote for the less-obvious ones). It still changes to channel 3. :mad:

With regard to the greying-out, I just checked and it's true that if I change to a different input on the TV, then I can access the setup for a device (that I'm NOT watching) in NetCommand. No more greying-out. Thanks HDNW!:)

Originally posted by theg
I have the MITs 52725. I also have a Pioneer 1014 receiver. Quick question on hook up. What are the pros and cons of hooking up the cable box to my receiver and then to the Mits? Right now I am going directly out of my cable box to the MIts.

Hi all still looking for some input on the above question

Originally posted by theg
I have the MITs 52725. I also have a Pioneer 1014 receiver. Quick question on hook up. What are the pros and cons of hooking up the cable box to my receiver and then to the Mits? Right now I am going directly out of my cable box to the MIts.

-----

For starters, if your cable box puts out digital audio, I don't know if you'll be able to send it from the Mits to the receiver. I purchased a 1014 but it wouldn't receive the digital audio from the TV, only from my satellite box and DVD players. Switched inputs, cables, etc., still no luck. Exchanged the 1014 for a Denon 2905 and everything works fine. You may want to make sure your receiver works before you decide on a final setup.

All -

I just hooked up my 52525 with Comp cables to the DVD player and Xbox. When I advance a scene on the DVD player, i notice lines across the screen during the brief second ot is advancing. Does anyone else notice this?
Also, is that smaller fan on the right side supposed to stay on all the time?

thanks

Originally posted by punjabi22

Also, is that smaller fan on the right side supposed to stay on all the time?


Yep! The cablecard, ATSC tuner, and the firewire outputs can all be used when the TV is "off." In fact, the TV utilizes "down-time" to get TV schedules for the program guide (guide button on the remote) from the ATSC antenna.

Speaking of fans, I just got my 52525 a couple weeks ago. The wife has decided on a nice cherry entertainment center for it rather than the Mit stand. However, the back of the center is enclosed so I'm a little worried about heat build up. The back has a slot of just roughly 2" by 10" for cables and that's about all the ventilation there is. Comments?

I don't see any problems as long as you have a small spaces between the TV and Entertainment Center (left, right, and top).

One problem I have come across on Entertainment Centers with a closed back is that they are not deep enough for the TV. I know these DLP's are pretty thin compared to other rear projection, however, I have seen some where the front of the TV still sticks out. Might want to measure.

Finally, you might want to see if the rear enclosure can be removed. Most of the time it is a flimsy piece of cardboard.

Hopefully, the MITSU engineers designed this TV just right. Therefore the fans have been sized to pass the appropriate airflow. Putting this into a tight cabinet may restrict the flow, and increase the heat that stays in. You should definitely see if you can remove the back (or cut a bigger hole).

It would also be a pain to hook up new stuff, or make any changes to the back.

Thanks. One of the attractions of this center is that, unlike the flimsy cardbaord of other units this has a nice wood back. In fact it's an option that adds a couple hundred to the center but provides a nice dark background to the viewing area rather than seeing the light wall behind. The downside of the back is the lack of ventilation.

I'm snakebit because of a recent purchase of a desk with a compartments for the PC. However the heat buildup there was atrocious and I had to drill holes in the back and add a fan.

I think I have a couple inches on each side of the TV and a little at the top but I know it's not too deep. Does the TV set itself doesn't have a temp reading I can get to so I can monitor it? I used to check the running temp of my Tivo in the past as well as my PC.

Thanks again.

I would think that with the enclosed entertainment center, if the sides fit fairly close to the TV, you should be able to substantially enlarge the opening in the back side without it being visible from the front. Maybe do a test fit to see just how much of the back is visible then make the appropriate cuts.

You might even cut out an area then cover it with an inexpensive HVAC grate painted black (or a color close to the wood tone). You'll get ventilation, but it shouldn't be very visible at all.

first time posting = )

I bought my 62525 just about a month ago...lovin' it.

But the one thing i noticed was on some DVD's (a lot of pixar ones) they have that "THX optimizer" i know thats not the best way to callibrate my tv, but it helps me in the very basics.

I noticed on one test, it gives me 4 white square, and i have to adjust my brightness so that i can see that each 4 are a distinct shade of white...the problem was, i had to turn the brightness waaaaay down...like in the teens. it made it kind of unwatchable.

I was reading in this topic that cleaning out the mit increases brightness a bit? since mine is just a month old should i even consider doing that? i dont notice any blotches but the brightness is leaving me scratching my head...

any suggestions? thanks =)

Originally posted by JonV
Speaking of fans, I just got my 52525 a couple weeks ago. The wife has decided on a nice cherry entertainment center for it rather than the Mit stand. However, the back of the center is enclosed so I'm a little worried about heat build up. The back has a slot of just roughly 2" by 10" for cables and that's about all the ventilation there is. Comments?

Well, I may regret this some day, but I've had mine in a similar enclosure for about four months now with no ill effects as of yet.

Originally posted by JonV
Speaking of fans, I just got my 52525 a couple weeks ago. The wife has decided on a nice cherry entertainment center for it rather than the Mit stand. However, the back of the center is enclosed so I'm a little worried about heat build up. The back has a slot of just roughly 2" by 10" for cables and that's about all the ventilation there is. Comments?

Well, I may regret this some day, but I've had mine in a similar enclosure for about four months now with no ill effects as of yet.

Wocka Wocka .....I too have a similar situation with my TV in an ET Center. It looks sweet...kinda feel like the guy in the Best Buy Commercial who is looking for a gap so that he can get a bigger tv. Between the bridge and the top of the set I may be able to fit a credit card between the two. I had to put the bridge on after the tv was put on the credenza. I have three to four inches on each side of the tv, with a panel on the back. The panel has about once inch slit down the middle. I have put my hand in the back and it is warm, but I figure no hotter than my receiver. I too may pay for this but I spent to much money on my ET Center to not use it. I have thought about putting some fans in the back or possibly cutting a bigger hole in the panel. The only problem is I have my et center a few inches from the wall so even then I may not get the best circulation. It is a pain to hook new cables to it. I have been reading about the fans and cleaning them on the set regularly and will have to pull one end out to get to them. Oh well...all and all it looks very sweet and has not gave me a problem yet.

One & All,

Maybe I am doing something wrong, but now and then I find that my audio, video settings seem to go back to default. Yesterday, watching a movie, and i noticed that the screen seemed very bright, so i decided to check the video settings, and the contrast was on full again (the default i suppose), then i thought i may as well check the audio, and that was also on default settings. It has done this twice now over the past 2 weeks, and i have not disconnected power. Any thoughts?

Also, if power is disconnected, should this set retain its settings? (such as channel labels, audio/video settings?

thanks

Originally posted by punjabi22
One & All,

Maybe I am doing something wrong, but now and then I find that my audio, video settings seem to go back to default. Yesterday, watching a movie, and i noticed that the screen seemed very bright, so i decided to check the video settings, and the contrast was on full again (the default i suppose), then i thought i may as well check the audio, and that was also on default settings. It has done this twice now over the past 2 weeks, and i have not disconnected power. Any thoughts?

Also, if power is disconnected, should this set retain its settings? (such as channel labels, audio/video settings?

thanks

I am fairly sure that the settings are retained after any loss of power. They should retained after a reset as well. You might see if you have the latest firmware for your TV (V26 004.05 for my 62525).

Can someone point me the right direction to use their manual or calibration disc. Everyone seems to be in it for money. Are the people just willing to share these tools to anyone (Me!?)

Mits WD-52525

Thanks

Matt
I want to try calibrating the color settings using the smte color bars pattern from the service menu. I plan to use the three color filters that came with the DVE disc.

Has anyone figured out how to display the test patterns from the service menu while you adjust the perfectcolor settings and the general video settings such as color/tint/bright/contrast? It does not seem that you can do it... Perhaps you are supposed to set all the perfectcolor settings and video at 31 (50%) and adjust some other service menu setting?

On the topic of Firmware, what updates have there been, if any?

Having the audio destination setting (TV vs. AVR) be device-specific would be a really nice feature. Unfortunate that we don't have a good way to ask Mits to add this feature to a future firmware update.

Don't know how old this thread is.... but our 62525 started out life as V4.03 and was field upgraded to V4.05....

Does anybody know what the latest firmware version is, and what features/bugfixes it has over V4.05???

Received an email from Mits.... V4.05 is the current version.... End!


THANKS Jan

Any feedback on people that have attempted this procedure? I have several smudges myself. However, i think it is probably from dust that was in the set all along.
I have the 62725 and need to get rid of the smudges. I am quite nervous about trying this procedure myself but when I finally found a tech that knows about this problem, he said that he would have to take the tv back to his shop to address the problem because it is the only way that he can do it safely. He also says that the only way he can get paid by Mits is if he is trying to fix a problem and in doing so he must clean the tv to fully diagnose. He says Mits will not pay him if he is just "cleaning" the dust out of the tv. This makes me more nervous because he says he will probably have the tv for a week.

Can you give me any guidance? Is it really that easy, even for someone a bit nervous about doing this, and especially considering the size of the screen?

Are the instructions posted by you and spiff72 all I need to know?

Any news yet on where I can get a Trim-Kit to replace my reflective screen? Do they even exist?

I have a 62525 btw.

Any news yet on where I can get a Trim-Kit to replace my reflective screen? Do they even exist?

I have a 62525 btw.

I found one for my 52525 at the bestbuy online store:

Best Buy > Accessories > TV, Home Theater & Audio Accessories > A/V Mounts & Brackets > Flat-Panel TV Mounts

I found one for my 52525 at the bestbuy online store:

Best Buy > Accessories > TV, Home Theater & Audio Accessories > A/V Mounts & Brackets > Flat-Panel TV Mounts


yeah, somebody PM'd me after I asked that question. I have since ordered one from BBuy. They are backordered however so I wont see it until early August.

Looking forward to it though.

Called Mits at 866-252-4333 and asked for update for my newly bought 52525 @ V26004.01 firmware. They said no problem and will overnite to me - free. All you have to do is ask. I call that GREAAATTTTT SERVICE!!! As of today V26004.05 is the latest.

Just picked up a wd-62525 for $2124 at NorCal Fry's... Brand new, factory sealed, no open box or refurb... Sunnyvale, CA still has a few left at this price! Fry's is notorious for returns and open boxes but if you make them show you the one they are giving you, you can at least know before you buy if it will be brand new... She looks like she was sitting around for a long time, the factory sealed box says 09/2004, and the manufactured sticker reads Oct' 04, I would of like a 05'er but who cares for $2124, $350 for the stand and tax, it was under $2700 out the door! 30 months no finance from mits to boot :)

The original Fry's sticker said $4299 on it, i got it for half off albeit a year later :) wow, what a price for new, factory sealed 62inch mits dlp! if you're lucky, you too can nab one of the last few.. oh, i think the 52525 was $1799 both awesome prices on the final few of last years models!

I have had my WD-52525 for about a week. I would have to say that it has the best PQ on a DLP that I have seen to date. But I am having a couple of problems:

1) I am on my second cable card. I have the following INsight cable subscriptions

a) Showtime and the Movie CHannel Pack with Showtime HD
b) HD package (HD NET, HD NET MOVIES, Univ. HD, Espn HD, Disc. HD)
c) Digital Channels with Digital Family Pack...

The problem, for some reason, my Digital channels just will not come in all the way. Half the time, they come in half way with artifacts and noted pixelization and joggy sound. The other half of the time, they do not come in at all. I have had the cable guys out here. They say that I am recieving an excellent signal to my TV. They gave me a nice AMP to boost the signal. I just keep having problems getting all of my DIgital channels between 200-500. From channel 236-250 I get Showtime and TMC channels, but only have of them come in.

2) The other problem that I have my TV guide, on the Cable side only gives me the name of the channel. It does not give me the name of the program. Yet my OTA guide gives me the name of the channel and the current and future programs... What can I do to fix this?

I have had my WD-52525 for about a week. I would have to say that it has the best PQ on a DLP that I have seen to date. But I am having a couple of problems:

1) No cable card here, but that seems odd. I am not much help here.

2) The 52525's guide doesn't have a real cable guide. It is basically just a channel list. I don't believe that the addition of a cablecard will give you any of the guide functionality that you would get from a set-top cable box. That is one of the sacrifices you make when you opt for the cablecard rather than the box. The guide that you see for the OTA channels is based on the PSIP data in the digital stream from the broadcasters.

1) No cable card here, but that seems odd. I am not much help here.

2) The 52525's guide doesn't have a real cable guide. It is basically just a channel list. I don't believe that the addition of a cablecard will give you any of the guide functionality that you would get from a set-top cable box. That is one of the sacrifices you make when you opt for the cablecard rather than the box. The guide that you see for the OTA channels is based on the PSIP data in the digital stream from the broadcasters.


This is not true. It is a guide of sorts, the instruction manual says. Now one thing that the manual also states, is that if it is not working that that is not a malfunction of the TV, but rather my local (PBS?) station is not broadcasting the codes. I have to believe that my local station does, because it broadcasts the information for the TVGOS (I had a Toshiba 52HM95 and it worked just fine with TVGOS) unless the codes are different...

I've been reading all these 52525 posts and just had to speak up real quick and say that I just picked up one of these (WD-52525) this past weekend. Got it for $1300. Didn't know til afterwards but it didn't come with the Diamond Shield screen protector, but it did come with the trim piece. I'd like the screen protector because of kids and pets, the person I bought it from might have it though, I should find out in a in a couple days.

I've been reading up here trying to figure out whether to get the AVIA disc, GetGray, or none of the above.

My previous TV was a 32" Mitsubishi CRT :)

I just wanted to update people on my 62525:

I just performed a second cleaning on the mirrors inside the set and that gave me a huge return in Picture Quality. I was dying to do it forever but finally made myself do it after purchasing some games lately for my Xbox 360. In other news I also have been using the trim kit I bought from Best Buy for about 6 months and love it.

I am going to hold on to my Plexi Screen Protector in case I have kids in the near future... probably not a bad idea.

Overall this is a great set and I have been very happy with the purchase. One + year in!

What can upgrading the 52525 firmware do for me in terms of benefits? If my TV is working fine....is there anything that new firmware can do for me??

Is there an easy fix for overscan on the 52525??

does anyone have a link or any information on what to change in the service menu to fix tilt or overscan??

I can get in the menu but I am not 100% sure what to change to fix the overscan or tilt issue on my 52525.

Can anyone help me out here?

You can't fix overscan or tilt in the service menu. In fact, you can't "fix" overscan at all. And tilt is a mechanical adjustment.

Does anybody know if v4.05 is still the most current (and apparently final?)firmware for our sets (62525 in my case)?

Thanks.

Does anybody know if v4.05 is still the most current (and apparently final?)firmware for our sets (62525 in my case)?

Thanks.

I just got the latest memory card update. It was my first time, and yes it was the 05 version.

What exactly did it fix or change?

On a side note, I got the software update since I had to buy a new lamp bulb. My lamp blew out after 2 years and 2 months. The counter said it only had like 1850 hours, but it must have gotten reset somehow. I also bought the trim ring (since I took the plastic glare screen off) for 49 bucks.

Mitsu had the best price for the bulb at $229. One other place on the net matched it. I bought from Mitsu to ensure I got the right bulb.

I've been reading all these 52525 posts and just had to speak up real quick and say that I just picked up one of these (WD-52525) this past weekend. Got it for $1300. Didn't know til afterwards but it didn't come with the Diamond Shield screen protector, but it did come with the trim piece. I'd like the screen protector because of kids and pets, the person I bought it from might have it though, I should find out in a in a couple days.

I've been reading up here trying to figure out whether to get the AVIA disc, GetGray, or none of the above.

My previous TV was a 32" Mitsubishi CRT :)


I need to purchase a new Diamond Shield for my 52525. However, I really don't want the OEM. Will the upgraded versions for 6xx or 7xxx fit my screen or am I stuck with the glossy version?

Thanks!

I just got the latest memory card update. It was my first time, and yes it was the 05 version.

What exactly did it fix or change?

On a side note, I got the software update since I had to buy a new lamp bulb. My lamp blew out after 2 years and 2 months. The counter said it only had like 1850 hours, but it must have gotten reset somehow. I also bought the trim ring (since I took the plastic glare screen off) for 49 bucks.

Mitsu had the best price for the bulb at $229. One other place on the net matched it. I bought from Mitsu to ensure I got the right bulb.

Thanks Bear. That's what I feared. One of the things I had hoped had been fixed since I got 05 almost a year ago is the problem with the IR volume control jumping several notches at a time sometimes. Oh well...

Don't know that I've ever been able to find a composite rollup of what Mits provides on any of these updates and I think it's on purpose. Some things we were able to summize had been fixed with the first couple of updates but most in 05 was so obscure and specialized that I don't know that I ever read anything specific as to what it specifically (05)may or may not fix. :(

I hate the "jumping" slider, too. I get it on the video adjusments, as well as the volume. I don't use the tv volume for anything but the PS2, though.

i just spoke to mitz customer service and according to the guy i talked to the latest version is .06 which he said they mail in the next couple weeks due to holidays. i'm hoping this fixes most of the issues i've read about the past few days on forums but i still cannot figure out how to adjust the tilt. screws behind speaker grill only do up/down and left/right from what i can tell - which you can do already with service menu 2457

any thoughts suggested

matt

Great thread!!

I'm trying to use my Sony Camcorder [DCR-PC100] to record off the HDMI input via firewire connection without much success. I connected the camcorder to the 1394/firewire connection in the hopes the TV would simply stream the existing input to the 1394 connection. Of course this didn't happen and I'm trying to determine if it is even possible.

Anyone out there configured their firewire camcorder to record off their MITS?

Thanks!

Will never work...

1) The camcorder most likely expecting a DV stream, and not MPEG2. The FW link on the TV is MPEG2 only.

2) There is no transcoding of inputs to firewire. The only thing available on the TVs firewire output is the stuff from the internal tuner or other data on the firewire network. You will never get HDMI over firewire.

Will never work...

1) The camcorder most likely expecting a DV stream, and not MPEG2. The FW link on the TV is MPEG2 only.

2) There is no transcoding of inputs to firewire. The only thing available on the TVs firewire output is the stuff from the internal tuner or other data on the firewire network. You will never get HDMI over firewire.
I suspected as much.

Looks like I'll have to go with the lower-resolution monitor outputs. I guess it is better than nothing.

Thank you for taking the time to respond!

Will a DV camera play back on these TV's over 1394? I don't have the right cable, but just wondered if this was possible (and does it look better than the SVIDEO hookups)?

Will a DV camera play back on these TV's over 1394? I don't have the right cable, but just wondered if this was possible (and does it look better than the SVIDEO hookups)?


nope... the 1394 input on these sets is strictly MPEG2 stream only. The following years models I think had a DV capable input as well, but not these.

I was at some friends' house this past weekend and their Mits WD-52525 had horrible black levels that I could not back down with the regular menu. Their blacks looked like light to medium gray, even with the brightness turned all the way down.

Is this something I could adjust out in the service menu, or does it sound like a problem with the light engine? I'm not familiar with Mitsubishi sets as I don't own one myself (I'm an LCoS fan, though I did buy my parents a WD-52825 which I have never touched).

The 52825 has the exact same light engine inside as the 52525.

The black level of these 2004(?) Mitsubishi sets certainly isn't as good as today's sets. But it was miles better than the black level of the LCD and LCOS alternatives at the time. Once they started putting in variable irises and adjustable bulb brightness, digital RPTVs got much better at black levels. New display technologies also helped a ton.

The black level of these 2004(?) Mitsubishi sets certainly isn't as good as today's sets. But it was miles better than the black level of the LCD and LCOS alternatives at the time.

The WD-52525 that I was playing with had far worse black levels than my parent's WD-52825 (which has acceptable black levels). That's why I asked if it was something that could be fixed in the service menu, or if the set was defective.

I was at some friends' house this past weekend and their Mits WD-52525 had horrible black levels that I could not back down with the regular menu. Their blacks looked like light to medium gray, even with the brightness turned all the way down.

Is this something I could adjust out in the service menu, or does it sound like a problem with the light engine?

Looks like there is a gamma adjustment in the service menu. The effect I saw was exactly like gamma being set too low. The blacks were gray and the picture was all washed out. So maybe increasing the gamma will fix the picture.

I was at some friends' house this past weekend and their Mits WD-52525 had horrible black levels that I could not back down with the regular menu. Their blacks looked like light to medium gray, even with the brightness turned all the way down.

Is this something I could adjust out in the service menu, or does it sound like a problem with the light engine? I'm not familiar with Mitsubishi sets as I don't own one myself (I'm an LCoS fan, though I did buy my parents a WD-52825 which I have never touched).

Just wondering...

Were you viewing an external source via HDMI when you observed these poor black levels? This sounds a lot like what my HDMI input looked like when I used it with some of my hardware with this type of output...

Were you viewing an external source via HDMI when you observed these poor black levels?

I saw the same problem with the built-in ATSC tuner and an S-Video input.

Try just adjusting the brightness and contrast.

Try just adjusting the brightness and contrast.

I turned the brightness all the way down and it had little to no effect on black levels. I assume the brightness control on this set controls the same thing as it does on every other TV, which is the black level.

I was at some friends' house this past weekend and their Mits WD-52525 had horrible black levels that I could not back down with the regular menu. Their blacks looked like light to medium gray, even with the brightness turned all the way down.

After a little more viewing I realized that the black levels were varying with the overall brightness of the picture. Even the black sidebars on 4x3 content were turning light grey when the active picture was bright. I thought that there might be a lot of dust on the mirror and lens which was scattering the light and it was confirmed by several people on another forum that the poor black levels were caused by dust on the lens and first surface mirror.

I followed the disassembly and cleaning instructions on page 141 of the xx725 owners thread and the results were fantastic - all picture quality issues were solved. The picture now appears like it is supposed to.

After a little more viewing I realized that the black levels were varying with the overall brightness of the picture. Even the black sidebars on 4x3 content were turning light grey when the active picture was bright. I thought that there might be a lot of dust on the mirror and lens which was scattering the light and it was confirmed by several people on another forum that the poor black levels were caused by dust on the lens and first surface mirror.

I followed the disassembly and cleaning instructions on page 141 of the xx725 owners thread and the results were fantastic - all picture quality issues were solved. The picture now appears like it is supposed to.

I think one of the root causes for the dust to be so prominent in the set is that the foam surrounding the lens typically comes loose, allowing dust to enter. I recommend resealing that foam if it has indeed come loose, or you'll be cleaning the mirrors again in 12 months.

I think one of the root causes for the dust to be so prominent in the set is that the foam surrounding the lens typically comes loose, allowing dust to enter. I recommend resealing that foam if it has indeed come loose, or you'll be cleaning the mirrors again in 12 months.

I duct taped that foam seal, and it hasn't helped. These TVs just suck in the dust from somewhere. Mine needs to be cleaned every 3-6 months.

I don't know what the new DLP sets are like, but I doubt I would go DLP again. The LCDs have come a long way since 2004. If my Mits takes (another) dump on me when it's out of warranty, I'll be getting a nice 1080p LCD.

I've had my Mits 52525 for over 3 years, and within the last few months all of my component inputs are displaying a very annoying interference pattern (the stronger the color, the more noticeable) that is not present on the HDMI/ATSC/S-Vid inputs.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this, or what to test?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=444566&page=173

Check out the thread above, I know its huge but this is where everybody has been posting.... unfortunately you are having the same results that a lot of us are having. All at about the same age of the tv. Seems to happen just over the component inputs and not the hdmi. I'm no expert on what is happening and I don't think anybody else has figured exactly what the problem is.

Usually known to me as wavy lines. I'm living with mine just waiting for it to die. It seems the concensus is that Mits isn't taking care of the problem.

Like Wazzey said, we're all having the problems. Everything but HDMI. There's a class action sign up listed in the other thread.

Like Wazzey said, we're all having the problems. Everything but HDMI. There's a class action sign up listed in the other thread.

Well, isn't that wonderful. Thank you both for the reply... I shall bury myself in that thread and hope we all find an answer.