OK guys, after lurking here for a month or so I made my move and purchased a KD-36XS955 and got the free matching stand. I have a few questions for you:

First, the rest of my gear:

Speakers: Infinity TSS-750

DVD Player: Sony DVP-CX777ES (400 DVD Carousel)

Receiver: Sony STR-DA2000ES

The only other components I will have are an older Sony 400 CD Carousel and a Tivo/DirectTV combo unit that I have yet to purchase. BTW, I will not be purchasing the Tivo/DirectTV/HD combo unit. I have no plans to include a VCR (how very far we've come in the last 5 years)

A note to those who aren't familar with the Sony 400 disc carousels: they are very deep, about 21"

Questions:

1. What sort of cabling will I need for Video? S-Video?

2. I will need a supplementary rack. Any suggestions? I would like to stick with something simple and low profile (nothing that extends above the combined heigth of the TV on it's Sony stand, about 48.75"

3. Does the stand ship with a second glass shelf? According to the on-line manual it only comes with one, but it shows a total of two in some of the drawings. However, I can't find a purchase option for a second shelf on Sony's site.

A final note: my thanks to whomever came up with the silly rule that denies posting of urls by noobs: I spent 30 minutes crafting a post with URLs only to be told AFTER I attempted to post the message that I was unable to do so. Brilliant idea.

For your cabling, go with component, is the DVD carousel progressive scan? You will need component to view prgoressive scan.

The stand only comes with one glass shelf. It includes instruction on ordering a second shelf for around $50.00. You have to call the company and they only take checks, no credit card.

Be careful about the extra shelf. It has space problems with one shelf, I can't imagine it with two. It really is poorly designed.

Guys,

Thanks for your replies. Quotes and my replies follow:

"For your cabling, go with component, is the DVD carousel progressive scan? You will need component to view prgoressive scan"

Yes, it's the Sony DVP-CX777ES. Someone at Agoraquest said Component too, so that is the way that I will go.

"The stand only comes with one glass shelf. It includes instruction on ordering a second shelf for around $50.00. You have to call the company and they only take checks, no credit card."

Wow, didn't know that the 21st Century had no-credit-card companies... Crazy. Anyway, sounds like the second shelf might be a waste.... Can the shelf that comes with the stand be installed in the lower position, or is it a different size/shape?

"Be careful about the extra shelf. It has space problems with one shelf, I can't imagine it with two. It really is poorly designed."

Yeah, I kind of got that impression from some other posts and threads. I will be getting a rack. Trouble is, it has to be deep, at least 21" and preferrably 24 or 25 (the CD and DVD carousels are a minimum of 21" deep). I want to go with something very simple, preferrably brushed chrome and glass, or perhaps chrome and glass. I'm looking at the VTI AGR-405B or AGR-405S (sorry, can't post link, see my previous post) which I think has been mentioned here before. This unit does NOT have the wire management feature. I wonder how effective VTI's wire-management systems are? I'm not sure I need to worry too much about that stuff: I'm good at dressing up wires and, based on the layout of my living room, the rack could between my (stone) fireplace and the TV, which should reduce the visibility of the wiring.

What do you guys think, should I pay the extra for wire-management racks?

BTW, here are the components that I will have:

1 Receiver
1 Direct TV/Tivo
1 CD Carousel
1 DVD Carousel

I may opt to get one of the Linksys wireless media adapters so that I can spool MP3s from my computer to the stereo, but I have to do some research before I make the final call.

I'm tempted to get enough rack space to accomodate all of that and leave the TV stand shelf empty. What do you think?

Finally, SonyStyle says that I'm #90 on the TV list, and they are supposed to get 87 in on 12-1 or 12-2. There's supposed to be another shipment of TVs next week, and they expect my order to be filled then. Can they be trusted? I suppose I don't have much of a choice: I got the TV stand for free, and free shipping, and some sort of discount (5%) but I had to pay tax! Anyway, the total came to $1750 Not bad, considering that the TV is selling at best Buy for $1700. I'd then have to buy a stand, pay tax, and buy delivery, which would get it up to about $2000 or more.

Many thanks for your help.

Frank

I have read that with some content this TV displays letterbox and pillarbox bars--in other words bars on all sides/postage stamp effect. Is this true, and if so what content does this?

I also have a question about the stand: I have carpeting. Once the TV is placed on the stand is it easy to slide back and forth to connect cables etc.? Or is it pretty much immovable?

The 36XS955 will appear to "postage stamp" the picture when the station transmits the SD picture (or non-widescreen) in the HDTV format. Generally, you'll see this during non-primetime shows on the tv networks. The tv is receiving the HDTV signal properly, but the transmitting station is filling the non-4:3 area with black (some stations actually fill the area with a wallpaper of black and station logo). If you don't like the look, you can either watch the SDTV signal (over the air many stations will broadcast a SDTV signal on another station in conjunction with the HDTV - with the built-in HDTV tuner, you can pick these up) or analog version, or you can "zoom" in the picture with a press of a button. On my tv, the zoom, slightly over zooms, so some labels are cut off the sides or bottom to a small extent.

So overall, the problem lies with the station transmitter (not the tv - all HDTVs would have the same problem) and you can easily overcome it.

I can't answer your stand question, as I keep the tv in an armoire (and hope I don't have to touch the cables much).

I have a MOXI box from my cable company. The MOXI box has separate channels for SD and then a bout 8 channles with HD content in the 900's on the dial(CBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, HBO< and a couple more). So it seems that If I watch the non-HD content on the "regular" channles I shopuld be fine...correct?

I just ordered one of these bad boys from sony style and was told to expect it within 3 weeks (guess they're back ordered again). In the meantime I need to do some preping for it and have a coupe questions.

1. Is there a DVD player in particular people are having great results with on this set? From what I've read the Panasonic S97 seems to be a pretty good choice and I'd like to utilize HDMI.

2. This set has 1 HDMI input if I understand correctly, and my digital cable/hd reciever box has DVI out. Would I be better off using the digital video connection for cable box (have HD programming) or the DVD player (will watch far more dvds then HD programming).

Thanks in advance for your help!

Fred

Well I just called Cox and was plesantly suprised to find out their cable system supports cablecard, so I will be able to use the TVs functions for handling digital cable/OTA HD. Unless there are any downsides to this, I guess I'll be using the HDMI for the DVD player--scratch my second question.

I wouldnt count my chickens about the Cablecard working just yet, but that is a nice side benefit of having an additional digital HD input. You may want to check if the Motorola 6412 HD-DVR is available in your area. Being able to timeshift HD is great. The 6412 doesnt support CableCard. I would definately use the HDMI for the DVR and Component 480P for the DVD. I am probably going to get this set myself next year.

Hey guys,

Don't want to sidetrack too much - but I'm curious if anyone has used this stand with their KD-36XS955.

Studio RTA Madison 3000 Rosewood TV Stand 60090

http://www.studiorta.com/catalog/details.cfm?catalog_id=289

They even carry it at Sears and it says it can hold "most 40" TVs." At 40"W x 23-1/2"D x 23-1/2"H the TV will hang off the back by 1.5" which doesn't seem bad. There is no weight specification but it looks to be solid - especially if it claims to hold 40"-ers.

Just curious if anyone had tried it before...thanks

hey gent's, 1st post! :)

I just placed an order yesterday at sonystyle.com; they are, which seems to expected, 'CURRENTLY OUT OF STOCK' w/ 'Ship Date Unknown'

Anyone know what the going turnaround on these things is?

Im working a dbl. tonight so I don't have time to call them, or else i'd fend asking such a remedial q. on my first post ..

I placed my order on 12/28 and it was out of stock, and I'm still waiting.

Originally posted by Ayreon
I placed my order on 12/28 and it was out of stock, and I'm still waiting.
:(

did they send you the stand yet? and any update on when your TV might ship?

Hello all,
I been a menber for a short time but I finally got my 955 today. I love it!.
i would have gotten the 34 but it won't fit in the cabinet. Anyhow, I ordered it on 3 Jan 05. if you want to know how I got it so quickly let me know. not sure that i can post the site/price/dealer here.

Originally posted by Aspen
:(

did they send you the stand yet? and any update on when your TV might ship?

They didn't send the stand yet either. I'm probably gonna give them a call tomorrow and see if I can get any answers.

Originally posted by Ayreon
They didn't send the stand yet either. I'm probably gonna give them a call tomorrow and see if I can get any answers. :( x infinity

i'm going to call tomorrow too. let me know what you find out, good luck!

Well, they said they exect a shipment to come in at the end of this week. I guess we'll wait and see.

i just called sonystyle and they said usually get them in within a week or two.:(

but you can't beat their financing deal.:D

to you guys getting answers so quick ...

I called sonystyle customer service, and while they are professional and helpful -- the rep. was to the point and explained that they only receive ETA notices from out of stock departments when things are received -- otherwise the rep. sends a request to the department (televisions in this case) on behalf of customers and the department will then respond back with an updated ETA on availability. he said to expect an update via e-mail within 24hours. this was a supervisor, he said anything less than that is just speculation.

just FYI

here is the 'real deal'

> Wayne Minnick <wminnick@austin-sony.com>
> Show options 3:11pm (17 minutes ago)
>
> The plant is experiencing a parts shortage for this model.
> We should get some units by 1/21/05.
>
>Wayne


his contact information is there as well

any updates at all?

Emailed Sony this morning and got essentially the same response as Aspen.

i just called and they have some in stock :D. i ordered mine and should get it within 9 days or so.

Just got a shipping confirmation in my e-mail. :D

Me too! Expected delivery in 3-7 business days. Can't wait...

I recieved my set today from **************. Unfortunately I seem to be having some issues with it. The top and bottom right hand side corners have a wierd greenish discoloration and it is consistently noticable when viewing.

I've gotta call them again tomorrow to discuss the replacement of this set--the cool thing about them is it seems they cover the shipping expense back.

other than that the image looks great, even SD feed seems very watchable. I think I'm gonna really love this set when the dust settles.

I'm a newer member, longtime reader. You all have helped me decide on the xs955, which I bought today from a local retailer. Seems they are having the same supply issues from Sony, so it will be a couple of weeks until it arrives. Got the stand though, and it is nice. Not sure if ok to mention here but I got the tv and stand for 1400. Can't wait to get ota HD. Saw it with rabbit ears and it works!

aukwood,

I guess you have your PMs disabled, but I would like it if you could get in touch with me and let me know how you got that price. I wouldn't mind saving an additional few hundred dollars.

Fred

I tried to ask him also - please PM me aukwood and let me know. Thanks!

If anyone has a 'Video Only' store in their neck of the woods (left coast mainly), they are just a hair more than that, also with the stand and 18 months no interest, no payment financing, if you want that. Thats where I got mine.
Rick

aukwood

I'd like to know how you went about putting the casters on.
Was there a certain size that was required, and how did you fit them into the stand?
Did it require any drilling or???

I'd be interested to find out.
It sure would make moving 230 lbs. around a lot easier.

Also, as far as the low price goes, I think it helped that I went into the store on a Monday afternoon at 3:30. I feel for commissioned sales personnel, but the store was empty and the salesman probably wanted to make at least one sale for the day.

I noticed that Best buy was having a sale on the KD-36XS955 this week.
Like Sony, they're also providing the stand for free(actually it's $1).
Plus, they're discounting the entire purchase by about $25.

When I called Sony to find out what the delivery time-frame was(5-12 days, even less because they ship them from here in San Diego), I mentioned the sale from Best Buy. The person I was talking to spoke with his supervisor and came back with a discount of even more. I was kind of surprised that Sony is 'dealing' on the price of the TV's on their web-site, especially newer products.

I also asked if they send the stand out prior to delivering the TV so I could have it set-up when the TV's delivered and he told me they would.

Is that the way it's normally done? There's just too many posts to read on this thread to find out.

Any info on how far in advance they send out the stand would be appreciated.

As far as the stand that hogues posted, the Sanas center ch.speaker shelf is a great piece to use to mount your center ch.spkr. on top of the set.
It holds a heavy 40lb. speaker easily and can be found at the Sanas site or here;

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=1361924

My main question is about how Sony goes about delivering their stand.Of course it would be great to get the stand a few days before you get the TV so you have the time to set it up so when they deliver the set,it's ready to go where you want it.
When I spoke to the Sony rep, tonight ,he didn't seem quite sure how it was handled.

Anyone who's taken delivery of this stand and set,I'd appreciate hearing about how things are delivered.(one before the other?)

Thanks.

Casters - Not!

I just picked up my tv yesterday, it is one heavy beast. The box barely fit through the door.

Now that it is mounted on the stand, I can see that putting on casters was not a good idea. I have carpeted floorcovering, and the wheels sink in, which not only makes it harder to roll but gives the tv/stand kind of a "boingy" feel. The thought of this tv falling over is scary, to say the least.

So, again, I don't recommend using casters because of the potential danger for tipping.

The picture is so nice with dvd and hd! I got a Silver Sensor indoor antenna and am getting the local ota hd programs. They look so good that I don't mind the smaller 16:9 letterbox as much as I thought I would.

aukwood,

How does your set look with SD(non-HD) material like analog and digital cable or satellite?

Welcome Auckwood! I sure am glad that Sony still likes selling Direct-view CRT!

Originally posted by Breather
aukwood,

How does your set look with SD(non-HD) material like analog and digital cable or satellite?

Not Aukwood, but I'll chime in. I just recieved my set this last Saturday, and agree that is one heavy beast.

I bought this set with the intention of watching 90% SD programming on it. I have a theater room for movies. This is my "everyday" TV.

That said, SD programming actually looks better than I hoped it would. I have regular Comcast analog cable and the channels actually look very very good. My main programming comes from C-band satellite, which is great quality, and which looks amazing on this set. For the last few years I have been using larger RPTV's for my SD and while it looked pretty good, is looks So much better on the Sony. I'm not kidding when I say that clear, noise free analog looks almost "hi-def" like on this set.
480i DVD also looks great, very sharp clear and colorful.

I have no regrets buying this set for mainly SD.

Rick

Thanks Rick. It's nice to hear that this set handles SD well. That's a big concern of mine.

I've been looking into a new set. I was going to buy a large RPTV but then an unexpected expense involving a new furnace, AC, and ductwork came up. I've been back and forth between the 36XS955 and the Sony 51WS655 lately. I think I may go for this set now and then purchase a FP setup this summer.

The SD (ota and satellite) looks very good. I agree with RickE, the SD is sometimes hard to distinguish from HD. DVD and even VHS are better than ever. HD over the air with my little indoor antenna is such a plus, and is one of the reasons I chose this set. I wasn't really sold before on the whole HD idea, but now that I've seen it on my local ota channels I'm very impressed. And, it's free!

I started the Avia calibration and got sidetracked, but overall the set was calibrated pretty well out of the box, an will finish a proper set-up later. I can already see that a little tweaking goes a long way.

This tv was definitely the right choice, since almost all of my viewing is in the 4:3 format, and gives me the chance to get my feet wet in the world of hd as well.

Thanks aukwood. I know SD quality can vary by area and even individual home, but between you and Rick, it sounds like this set handles SD well.

My local Best Buy doesn't carry this set but a BB that's 30 minutes away has it. I think I'll head out this weekend to check it out.

Have had my XBR960 a few weeks and it handles SD D* as well as anything I have ever seen.

Breather, I think this set might get you by until the front projection arrives!!
Too bad about your hvac melt-down, though.

For me it replaces a ten year old Pioneer 45" rptv, so it seems a tad smallish at first - but hey, now I can sit three feet away for that really big screen effect.

The only real downside is that my wife now hogs the tv -


P.S. Please don't boot me off this thread, but the big Panasonics looked good too, less expensive because of no built-in hd tuner.

Just did an online chat with a rep on the sony site. He said they will not ship the stand early but that the installers will set it up. Does this sound legit?

Originally posted by aukwood
Breather, I think this set might get you by until the front projection arrives!!
Too bad about your hvac melt-down, though.

For me it replaces a ten year old Pioneer 45" rptv, so it seems a tad smallish at first - but hey, now I can sit three feet away for that really big screen effect.

The only real downside is that my wife now hogs the tv -


P.S. Please don't boot me off this thread, but the big Panasonics looked good too, less expensive because of no built-in hd tuner.


Yeah, I'm not happy about the HVAC replacement, but I think this is going to be a nice set. The FP will be great to have too. It's something I've wanted and maybe it's better that things worked out this way.

Pioneer makes great RPTVs but if you're sitting closer, you will definitely enjoy your new set.

It sounds like you're going to have to hide the remote from your wife!

I think I know which 36" Panasonic you're talking about. Definitely a nice set.

:)

Originally posted by s1234w
Just did an online chat with a rep on the sony site. He said they will not ship the stand early but that the installers will set it up. Does this sound legit?

That sounds right. If you've done it before, those stands go together easily.

I think it's likely that the stands are shipped UPS and arrive sooner than the tv, which is probably shipped via LTL (truck). The stand is one of the best ready-to-assemble items I've seen - only takes 10 minutes to put together. Don't mean to be a cheerleader for Sony products, but they do seem to have it right. The stands are made by a third party and you can order an additional glass shelf if needed.

Where should I hide the remote from my wife?

Originally posted by aukwood
Where should I hide the remote from my wife?

Toolbox.

Is the KV-36XS955 too heavy to go into a standard entertainment center? Is the Sony stand necessary? Thanks!

Just find a stand that can hold 240lbs.

www.studiorta.com makes some (that's what I was going to get).

Originally posted by auntie_ellen
Is the KV-36XS955 too heavy to go into a standard entertainment center? Is the Sony stand necessary? Thanks!


The 36XS955 comes with the free Sony stand at Best Buy and through Sony Style. The XS955 weighs 234 pounds if I remember correctly. If you want to put it into an existing entertainment center or one you're looking at, you'll have to check with the manufacturer and find out the weight capacity of the entertainment center. Any reputable manufacturer should have that information. Also, you'll need an opening that is at least 40" wide.

Here's the TV at Sony Style with the stand.

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=KD36XS955KIT&Dept=tv&CategoryName=tv_34%22to36%22TVs

You can call the stand manufacturer to get an extra glass shelf for the stand so you're not stuck with only one shelf.

if you go to best buy's web site,they have dozens of stands that hold 240 lb. sets

What settings or tips have any of you figured out since getting your 36xs955?

Just curious about what others have found works best for the various adjustments.

Has anyone noticed a spouse lock-out in the menu? Everytime I turn the tv on, my wife has it set to "vivid"!

I am using an existing stand that used to hold my Panny 32. It's made by Legends Furniture, model CT125DW. It is made of 3/4" SOLID oak plywood, and not the particle board that is often used in A/V furniture, especially those found in electronics stores like BB or CC.

It's just slightly wider than the Sony, and although at 20" deep it means the back end of the Sony hangs over by 5 inches, it's not a problem as the majority of the weight is to the front, where the biggest part of the tube is. In fact the Panny that it replaced actually stuck out further, and for a larger "footprint" than the Sony.

The cabinet is large enough to hold my home theater receiver, an MD recorder, my trusty JVC S-VHS unit, a Sony DVD changer, a Sony DVD recorder, a JVC Component Video Switcher, and a SA8000HD cable box/DVR. And there's still enough room for another two or three components. The components are arranged side by side, with a 3/4" SOLID oak vertical divider panel down the middle giving crucial extra strength to hold up this beast.

The model comes with two smoked glass doors, but I got mine cheap because one glass door was broken and there was a scratch on one side. I ended just removing the other glass door, and I prefer it that way so that the components don't overheat. The back is made of thinner oak plywood to give the cabinet additional strength, and I just drilled some large holes for the cables to pass through.

Although mine was a scratch/dent model, I could have gotten an unblemished one for about the same price or less as one made of particle board. The sticker on the back shows a suggested retail price of $280.

Well, it looks like my 36xs955 is going back to Best Buy. It worked fine for 10 days, but then decided to turn itself off with a nice bright flash and then flashed the standby light 7 times over and over. Unplugging the set and plugging it back in allowed me to turn the set back on and watch indefinitley. That was until two days ago. Since then it turns itself off in the same manner randomly at intervals of 30 seconds to ?? hours. Every time, the set must be unplugged and reset.

I can't seem to find info here on resolving this problem. Even the 34xbr960 guys never seem to post anything after the problem was fixed or the set was returned.

So the question is do I chance schlepping a 240# tv an hour to Best Buy to try again or do I bail out on the idea of a Sony altogether. Even if the next set works fine, who is to say that it will after day 91. It bugs me that according to SonyStyle's knowledge base that this sort of problem is normal. At this point I'm just not sure...

I'm sorry to hear about the trouble the set is giving you.

Considering the sheer size of that set, I'd get a service tech to come and take a look. That is, if everything looked great before this happened. I can't imagine that it would be that big of a deal to fix.

DwainW-

I had some similarly mysterious on/off problems. My wife was accidently hitting the sleep timer button on the "less than great" remote. Worth a try!

<I had some similarly mysterious on/off problems. My wife was accidently hitting the sleep timer button on the "less than great" remote. Worth a try!
>

aukwood,

How's geometry on your set? For example, when watching 16:9 format, do the border lines look straight? Reason I'm asking is that quite a few posters indicated geometry issues with the XS and XBR960 tubes.

Here is the continuation of my story for those that are interested. The next two paragraphs detail the exchange of my set, if you are only interested in my experience with the second set, skip to paragraph #4.

I ended up returning my first set to Best Buy. I talked to several stores in the northern Virginia area that were supposed to have them in stock per the BB website. If I were going to drive an hour+ to a BB, I wanted to make sure they had one ready for exchange. The story was similar for every store, "Our computer says we have one (or two), but we can't find it in our warehouse." With one store, I even asked for the manager right off the bat to maybe avoid potential phone-lackey problems. In this case the manager said, "I'm sure I saw the last one go out the door this morning." I contacted all but one store in the area, and decided that if they didn't have one that I was just going to return it, so I loaded up the set and headed for Herndon. Once again, they said that they were supposed to have two, but could find none. However, they were 'nice' enough to call around to other stores to see who might have one. Interestingly enough, two were confirmed in-the-box at the same store whose manager was sure that they had just sold out. Hmmm. I was assured that if I went to this second store, that it would be nearly impossible for me not to get a new set.

With this other store only 20 minutes away, I decided to make the drive and change my modus operandi. Instead of arriving and asking if they had a set in stock for exchange, I just told customer service I was returning the set. And if they happened to have one, I would let them talk me into exchanging it. I'm not sure if it was my new method, or just happenstance, but this time it worked. They took my lazy $1699 set and took it as a return, assuring me that my $1 stand was mine to keep for $1+shipping. Then they sold me a brand new $1699 set complete with a $100 mail-in-rebate. Ooohhh, is this why noone wanted to exchange? At any rate, the helpful customer service rep talked me into buying into the BB Value Zone (or whatever it's called) card and I would get another rebate on this purchase and all future purchases for a year. This purchase alone would net me about $50. So with $150 in new found savings, I decided the $200 4-year service plan was now a good option. In the end, I feel like the hassle of returning the set was worth being able to buy a 4-year service plan for $50. After my first XS experience, it will give me a renewed peace of mind.

As for the second set, this is day 10 and no problems yet. The geometry on this set is quite satisfactory except for a downward bending of the top right corner when watching 1080i. I figure I'll have to play with fixing that when I adjust the overscan anyway. Overscan on this new set is still 10% on the sides, but that is much better than the 12-14% horizontal and 12%vertical on the first set. But what is surprising to me is the striking amount of difference between the gray scales of the two sets. The first set's Normal setting icy blue, particularly on the bright end, while the Warm setting was red, red, red. I never measured to see just what the color temperatures looked like on that set (nor the new one yet either), but even if it were close to 6500K, the red component was skewed way too high. I found it unwatchable. The new set on the other hand has a reasonable normal setting if you are accustomed to blue TVs. It certainly is not as bad a your average TV. But the Warm setting on this set seems much more natural than on the first one. It may/will require some tweaking once I know this set is here to stay, but even out of the box it is not bad at all. Overall, this set seems a bit sharper than the first set as well. It just seems remarkable that there would be so much difference between two sets of the same model, particularly a higher end model like the 36xs955.

So the question remains, do I regret not going with the XBR or the 34" XS? Well, going in to this, I assumed I would be watching a 34xbr right now. I've owned two different XBRs over the last 15 years, a 27xbr55 from 1991-1996 and a 32xbr96s from 1996-2001. Both gave me years of trouble free performance and were head and shoulders above all competition. The XBRs once were a breed all there own. Not only did they have their own tubes, but the power supplies, control boards, comb filters, etc. were exclusively XBR, and the results showed under comparison. However the XBR now doesn't seem to offer as much over the XS line: A few extra frills like PIP and iLink, but nothing substantial as far as build or picture quality. Sure you have a little more control over DRC and the digital comb filter is 10 bit vs. some unknown quantity (who says it's not 10 bit also?), but in the end the 34XS and the 34XBR have very similar pictures. In fact, there was a bigger difference in the two 36XSs that I've owned than I saw in the 34XBR/XSs I compared. In the end, I couldn't for myself justify the extra $200 for the XBR. So the 34XS it was, until I started comparing the 34XS to the 36XS for another $200-300 savings. Again, the pictures in HD (where it counts for me) were very similar. Maybe the geometry is a little better on the 34", or maybe it's just that the top and bottom edges of the 34" picture are not visible. Either way, it's still a toss up to my eyes. Plus the 36 offered a free stand that I was expecting to pay at least $200 for or spend 10+ hours planning and building myself.

The bottom line for my choice of 4:3 is that the 36" is a bigger tube. Now I know that best picture is slightly smaller on the 36, but the 4:3 material stands up to the 36" size -- any bigger and SD starts getting ugly. The 16:9 picture could certainly stand to be larger, but unfortunately there isn't a 16:9 option larger than 34" anymore. If there was, I would certainly want to go that route. But with equivalent picture quality and near equvalent 16:9 picture size, why not save the bucks and go with the 4:3? Lesser issues include things like burn-in, which I don't really expect, but if it does occur, it will only be visible on the less important 4:3 picture rather than the more important 16:9 (lesson learned from 16:9 Toshiba RPTV that replaced the last XBR). This would not be the case on a 34". If this copy of the 36XS955 works flawlessly for the next five years, I'll be very happy with my decision.

You made the right decision--if you want a 36-inch you better buy them while they still last!

Just bought this TV and we are very happy with it. Just want to point out that if you use your sony card at sonystyle you get 10% off thru March 31. (they give you 10 points for every $1 you spend).

DwainW,

I just wanted to say that I had a similar experience to yours. I had to send back a faulty 36XS955 for a stange discoloration in the top left corner. The replacement set I recieved seems to look stunningly better then the first and has exceeded my expectations.

Originally posted by gopher2k
DwainW,

I had to send back a faulty 36XS955 for a stange discoloration in the top left corner. The replacement set I recieved seems to look stunningly better then the first and has exceeded my expectations.

More power to you! But this "strange discoloration," which also affected my set, was easily corrected with the top-left LANDING code-group in the service menu (first four items). In fact, whoever set it up was obviously not having a good day! I reset all four corners to 128 (no correction) and then redid it to my satisfaction. I really wanted to save myself having to return it for another pig in a poke, if I could. Who knows, the new one could have been worse!

I suspect the workers assigned to adjust each set are given 41.7 seconds to accomplish everything, to maintain their quota! ('Scuse the cynicism . . .)

KenTech, did you find the location of those parameters in the service manual, or did you have an online source? I have a copy of the service menu spreadsheet for the 34xbr910, and I don't know what may be different with the 36xs955.

ok. this is probably a strange question, but you guys are my best shot. is this tv able to letterbox videogames that are made widescreen?

Originally posted by DwainW
KenTech, did you find the location of those parameters in the service manual, or did you have an online source? I have a copy of the service menu spreadsheet for the 34xbr910, and I don't know what may be different with the 36xs944.

I first found them in the widely-circulating spreadsheet for the late-model HS, XS, and XBR sets.

In the chart I have, the group is called LANDING and the codes are LT, LB, RT, and RB. Default settings are 128 for each, which is zero effect. Then you tweak, as required. If your set has different group names for the codes, the code-names themselves might be similar. Look for the above names.

These are not convergence controls but four magnetic coils that correct purity in the extreme corners. I don't know how completely different models sets do this. Did your finger slip just a bit, and you really meant XS955? Then it's easy, as above.

Thanks for the info, I'll take a look for those asap. And yes, I meant 36xs955. Sorry for the confusion.

Ok here's the deal with me. I currently have a 32HS420, but when watching HDTV or DVDs or even when playing current and future widescreen video games I find the 29" viewable 16:9 area to be much too small. But the 28-29" 4:3 picture on the 34XBR960 is too small for 4:3 viewing on that set. I would really love to get my hands on a new 40XBR800, but seeing as how unlikely that is, is it more worthwhile for me to get the 36XS955 for both 4:3 and 16:9 viewing or keep the 32HS420 for 4:3 and pick up a 34XBR960 for 16:9 viewing? The reason that this choice is hard is that 32" 4:3 does feel a bit small now (although still livable) and I notice that on my friends 40XBR800 that his SD and ofcourse the HD/DVD sources look better than my 32HS420. Would the 36XS955 provide a better overall picture (one closer to his 40" in quality) than the 32HS420? Or is this just my eyes fooling me and is the 32HS420 just as good for SD and 480P(gaming) 4:3 viewing? I wish the 40" was still around, then I wouldn't have to go through this, lol.

ok fellow KD-36XS955 owners please help me out
sorry for the basic lingo but I am by no means a videophile

just received this set today replacing my almost 10 year old 27" RCA F27675BC (no I don't think the BC is for Before Christ)

anyways I have the set hooked up to Directv
on my old 27"er the pic looked great (I only moved up because I wanted a larger, modern, flat screen, set capable of HD for the future)
with the new Sony the first thing that struck me was the blurring and lack of clarity in any on screen text and lack of overall picture sharpness.
I was watching the college hockey game on ESPN and the logo/score inlays on the screen did not look sharp nor did the overall picture...found it really hard to read the names on the back of the jerseys. Baseball looked even worse. This was not just limited to sports programming of course.

Any initial thoughts about some adjustments I could make or is this just a limitation of the directv feed being made increasingly visable on a larger set (like I said my old set looked great)? Does 9 more inches of picture really sacrifice so much detail? I have played with the basic settings and haven't found a cure. I have not touched the service menu a) because I don't know how b) because I don't want to play around with stuff I have little knowledge of.

many more questions to come I'm sure
thanks in advance for hopefully helping me start to improve this to my liking

made a few tweeks and things look slightly better than last night
the yellow digital clock against the black background on '24' (rerun tonight) looked sharp as a tack

but the blurring/out of focus effect is most visable when watching sports programming
very hard to read names and numbers on jerseys
and made even worse on sports highlight shows like Sportscenter where the feed is not live

still looking for some tips on how to possibly 'clear' this up on the KD-36XS955

Green globs? I thought they were just bad luck for some, but now I have them too!
Well, not me but my 36xs955. So far turning the set off and on degausses it and cures the problem. I'll keep you all posted how things work out.

I had the same problem. When I got my 36xs home and plugged in directv, it looked like garbage. A couple of things that did help was to use an s-video cable out of the receiver to the TV. I also have a dvd recorder that is progressive scan which the D-tv signal routes through before going to the TV. If the tv signal output out of the DVDR is progressive scan, the picture is much worse than using a component (interlaced) output. This can be checked by setting the remote control to TV mode and hitting Display. Should show as 480i and not 480p. Correctly setting up the display (brightness, contrast et) did help "somewhat". Picture doesn't seem as bad now 2 months later. I probably just became de-sensitized.

Not sure if I'm the only one, but I can tell absolutely no difference between the TV DRC mode settings (interlace, cinemotion, progression) Am I the only one?

Also, has anyone found a way when waching over the air hi-def to keep the vertical stretch mode constant, without having to redo each time you change channels? With over the air hi-def I also wish there was an option for Anemorphic widescreen instead of Letterbox. Kind of a "half vertical stretch". Letterbox is way to small, but a full stretch looks goofy.

I've reciently purchased this monitor though eBay. I live in Canada and got a super deal. Unfortunately, I had to drive 4 hours to pick up. But oh well... she's all mine... MINE!!!

Noticed some people complaining about SD with this TV. Here's some ways to dramatically increase the image quality of SD.

Forget about Component Cables. Garbage for this set. Don't blame the set. Seen many HD TV's that look like garbage with Component. What did you expect? It's the lowest of the low, and on a set of this size (and larger) garbage in is garbage out.

If using S-video, buy the best you can afford. I've used many types of S-video cable. The best, and a great value to boot, is Acoustic Research Pro II series. All text is much sharper and grain in background detail is noticibly reduced. Edge detail has also improved. Avoid the cheap and mid-range stuff.

If you also have a Home Theater (not HT from a box) then your receiver might offer S-video up-conversion to Component out to the TV. This further step does help to further clarify S-video just a touch more. However, if you don't have a home theater system that can do this, the Pro II S-video is your absolute best bet for direct to TV connection from SAT.

Have digital Cable? Get Sat. Less compression, better colors/less bleed, less background grain.

Other PQ issues...

I've deciphered some of the on-screen service menus without the Service Manual (Sony won't send it to Canada - Thanks!). The factory defaults are pretty close, but I was able to further the sharpness and definention. Once I find a way to get my hands on the real SM, I'll post some results on here as to what made the biggest difference.

If you have a DVD player, you HAVE to use component (not composite) into this set. It's the only way to get 480 P into the TV from the player. S-Video only supports interlaced signals and will dramatically reduce the res from the DVD player. Also, be sure to set on the DVD player that your TV is 16x9. I know it's a 4x3 set, but you'll get the maximum res from the DVD player this way. I'm using a Pioneer 47ai.

When setting up the on screen menu, it's best to work with the "Standard" image setting, and just increase all settings (except color, turn it down a bit) for the overall best picture. I've noticed if you set the screen to Vivid, it blows out alot of mid-level detail. For some SD material, I would recommend it (with color turned down). Other than that, just stick with Standard. The Movie setting is too dark for any use. If you're looking for a stronger contrast or less grain, etc from the DVD image, I would set this on the DVD player itself.

Enjoy!

Question..

Why do some digital stations appear to have a small 4x3 in the center of the screen, and a lot of wasted black space all around?

Answer..

A true HD signal (not just "digitized" 4x3 over sat or cable) is designed and broadcast for a 16x9 area on your screen. So when you view the 16x9 broadcast on the 4x3 set, it takes up a band across the screen. The TV isn't adding bars at the top or bottom of this, there's simply no info there from the broadcast.

A fair number of HD signals (I use free OTA with an antenna) are, at this time, simply upconverting a lot of traditional 4x3 programming. What this means is that you'll also see black bars at the left and right of the 4x3 programming, being broadcast in the 16x9 mode. When these stations are broadcasting true HD, you'll see the black bars at left and right of the 16x9 field dissappear.

Why the KD-36 is better than the KD-34...

Sony offers 2 sets that, from cabnet design to guts inside, are pretty much the same TV. The only difference is that the 36" model is 4x3, while the 34" model is 16x9.

Ok, but why should I get the 4x3 set? It's not widescreen and I was told to get widescreen...

- The 4x3 set is 400 US cheaper because 4x3 sets have less s+x appeal

- 16x9 broadcasts are only 1 inch less wide than the true 16x9 set... a very marginal dif.

- traditional 4x3 broadcasts are huge on the 4x3 set, and very small on the 16x9 set

- The 4x3 set offers more practical zooming fuctions for digital 4x3 or 16x9 images for a truely huge picture.


Some other items of interest...

Noticed some complaining of green globs in the upper portions of the TV. I will note that when I got the TV home, it did pass by one of my speakers, even though the speaker is a good distance away from it now, it did cause some discoloration at the top. Recycling power caused it to go away and I've never seen it again. I think passing this TV by any magnetic field during installation, moving, etc. (even if you didn't know you did). causes some sort of shift. Again, after recycling the power (which degauses the screen) I've never seen the issue again.

My last TV, a Panasonic GAOO, was very easy to affect with magnetic fields such as speakers. If I passed a speaker by the screen, it would take hours for the discoloration to go away. And typically that discoloration was green in tone. With the Sony though, all it took was recycling power, which certainly seems better to me.

If this issue keeps reappearing, check for anything too near the TV, such as unshielded front speakers, using an unshielded center channel, putting a HT receiver or powerbock under the TV's stand. If it keeps resappearing and you've eliminated all factors, then the TV may be faulty.


Picture Brightness...

I've noticed that Sony's lower-end version of this TV... think it's called the 410 (silver cabnet, not gray) has a slightly brighter overall picture with SD than mine. However, it's HD signal processing is not as sharp or bright (my TV does have super fine pitch tube). It's not a huge brightness thing, just very minor. I think a set either has to be calibrated more towards HD or more towards SD. However, with OTA HD broadcasts of 4x3 SD material (still with me? :) then my set is superior.

Originally posted by logoguy905

Noticed some people complaining about SD with this TV. Here's some ways to dramatically increase the image quality of SD.

Forget about Component Cables. Garbage for this set.
I own this set and have thoroughly researched service mode, absent any help from Sony aside from the usual service-manual charts. Check out the articles here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=531494&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

The service-data charts for your set and other goodies are attached to some of the messages.

Where you have said "component" I think you mean composite. Component-input quality (such as from a DVD player) is quite excellent.

Garbage in, garbage out, indeed! Feed it a good SD signal, as from good analog cable, it looks nearly like HD in quality when viewed at an acceptable viewing distance for SD. But Sony's picture-mode settings are, in my opinion, brain-damaged, and Standard screws with the signal so much with its "dynamic-picture" features that you never get to see what is really there.

This set is capable of exquisite display of SD material to the degree that is good quality. Broadcast mush will appear, well, mushy!

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the link to the service info. Looked for it previously here, but was unable to find.

Sorry if I mixed up the terms component with composite. Everyone does it from time to time :)
As long as you know the difference, that's pretty much what matters. Manufactures should have called component cable something else. Bad enough we have so much jargon... but to make a superior set of cables similar in name to an inferior cable was just bad judgement on their part. But that's a diff. rant :)

I've yet to start tinking with color and contrast in the SM. I've only worked on the sharpness/convergence settings as yet. My assumptions on picture settings were from the standoint as an "average" user. If someone had not yet tinked in the SM, then I would say a mildly adjusted set from "Standard" gives the best results. I do increase the contrast quite a bit, and increase brightness a bit. I turn down color a few notches so that color doesn't bleed. The VIVID setting gives a much better contrast, but my factory settings for this setting have bleeding reds and bigtime loss in mid-level detail. I won't even be tinkering in this area though the SM until I pick up Video Essentials. I've used some of the screens with THX Optimizer on better DVD's for the sharpness/convergence cettings.

I've noticed some threads about the brightness issue of the monitor. Not so much the black level, but how it automatically darkens the picture when more than, say, 25% of the screen goes full-tilt white.

I'm thinking this could be one of two issues..


A - Intentional...

A limiter (software/hardware?) has been put on the TV.

Anyone know how to deactivate this if this is the case? I don't care if turning the feature off shortens the life of the set. I only plan on having it for about 4 years before I upgrade. I really hate this possible "feature". I bought a CRT for it's intensity and brightness of image. Defeating the primary benfit of CRT technology isn't an upgrade to me.

I do recall the 420... the more basic version of this set, appearing to have a brighter white point when full coverage of the screen was occouring.


B - Unintentional...

The Capacitors on the TV were designed with the smaller 34" 16x9 models in mind and the exact same boards were used in my larger 4x3 set. The capasitors are not the right size for a set of this size.

This makes more sense to me. If you watch any 16x9 material, including 4x3 within the 16x9 area, it always seems to be bright to me. Yes, there is some dimming here and there, but it's quite moderate compared with standard 4x3 viewing.

A TV requires capacitors in order to store up energy for quick and bright images. If the capacitors are damaged (they failed in my GAOO after 10 years of use... replaced for about 200 bucks 2 year ago) then the image runs out of steam when needing to display bright images. This is similar to a power amp for your stereo needing capacitors for storing up energy for very loud and dynamic passages. Every time you want to take things "full tilt", it simply doesn't have the power in reserve to do so.

I feel one thing that furthers this thought is I've read of some people returning their "dark" sets for ones that appear MUCH brighter... manufactured after Sept. of 2004. My set was built in August of 2004. So, perhaps Sony woke up and put bigger capacitors on the 4x3 set in October and onwards, or they manually fixed some of the darkness issues in the SM. Anyone out there with the brightness issue AND have a TV manufactured in October 2004 or onwards?


Anyone have any thoughts on this?

My 36XS955 is a January build. I don't have a problem with maximum brightness (but I did come from a CRT rear projector), however I do have a problem with uneven brightness. So far no one including my wife has seen this pattern. I hesitate to point it out to my wife in particular, because it is one of those things that once you see it, it is hard to not see it.

The brightness level across the screen varies in little patches by a small amount. The only time I see this is during camera pans over moderate to bright backgrounds with little contrast -- clear skies work well. The effect is that it appears that my tube is dirty or has a bunch of fingerprints on it. During these shots, my eyes fix on the static pattern instead of following the camera motion, and I get pulled out of the 3-D world of the XS955 and am reminded that I'm looking at a TV. Displaying a full white or light gray field shows this mottled pattern, but it's seems so slight that you wouldn't think it would show up much in program material.

Has anyone seen this issue with their 36? It may just be that I'm overly sensitive to the limitations of such a big tube, but I just wonder if this is common or a defect in my set.

Originally posted by logoguy905
I've noticed some threads about the brightness issue of the monitor. Not so much the black level, but how it automatically darkens the picture when more than, say, 25% of the screen goes full-tilt white.

I'm thinking this could be one of two issues..


A - Intentional...

A limiter (software/hardware?) has been put on the TV.

Anyone know how to deactivate this if this is the case? I don't care if turning the feature off shortens the life of the set. I only plan on having it for about 4 years before I upgrade. I really hate this possible "feature". I bought a CRT for it's intensity and brightness of image. Defeating the primary benfit of CRT technology isn't an upgrade to me.

When I first got my 36XS955 (which has nearly the same service-code set as the HS420), I was offended by the brightness limiting that was taking place. I have an electronics/systems background, so I immediately wondered exactly where this limiting was taking place. One assumes the video signal exists at some point in the chain of circuitry without limiting, passing thru various amplifiers, filters, and gain adjustments, and then hits the limiter. Then it passes to more processing and gain adjustments, finally reaching the display. If one boosts the video level *after* the limiter, the effect of the limiter will be less obvious. Maybe there has to be a corresponding lowering of the video gain before the limiter.

But this is theoretical: I don't know exactly how this processing chain works. But I experimented and found that adjusting the black level and picture (white) brightness with the *global* settings made the whole thing quite tolerable. Normal program material seems to be affected very little, and I am actually a bit grateful for a toning down of a full-white screen, as commonly occurs during commercials.

First, I made sure the *known* brightness limiters were turned off: 2170P-2 #4 YLMT should be set to 3 (default for my set). Also set 2170P-4 / ABLM and ABLT to 0. I haven't yet discovered any others. Note that modes other than Pro invoke some of these limiters.

In Pro mode, I set my Brightness and Picture sliders to dead-center = 31 and color to Normal. I set 2170P-1 #5 SBRT to its midpoint (31) and calibrated the black level with #9-11, RCUT-BCUT, with a decent pluge pattern from Digital Video Essentials, getting the dark-gray color reasonably neutral (pre-calibration). This established a normal black level for the Brightness slider. Then I set the RGB-drive settings for a good viewing brightness on SD channels in the evening. After careful color calibration to approx 6500K, the settings I have lived with are, for 2170P-1 #6-11 (RDRV-BCUT), 42-28-22-31-18-14. And 2170P-4 #21 GAMB is set to 1 to correct yellowish mid-tones. (For any settings of GAMR, GAMG, and GAMB, GAMB is always set 1 higher than the other two.)

The bottom line has been that this set is quite reasonably bright with minimal limiting for evening SD broadcasts. I can up the Picture to 40-ish for darker programs. DVDs and most HD material are plenty bright with Picture in the middle setting of 31. SD broadcast TV is black-level anarchy, so I continually diddle the Brightness when switching programs. But it's near the center for most SD and all HD material.

I think that this brightness limiting has a good engineering purpose, limiting the heating and resultant distortion of the aperture grille and the pink and green patches that occur. It may help with high-voltage regulation by limiting the total beam current. I believe the limiting is totally intentional and has nothing to do with “capacitors” in the circuit. If I did discover a magic switch to turn off all limiting, I might just leave it on, since the current dusplay is so satisfactory. For a large CRT, it is amazingly bright, and that means a huge beam current from the poor electron guns in the back, more so than for smaller sets.

I recommend you go into service mode and try some different settings -- after writing down the original settings, of course. You could end up with something very similar to what I now have and enjoy.

When I'm watching 4x3 Bell Expressvu Sat., and I bring up the Guide, there is a dimming of the overall image depending on which channel bar I'm glossing over.

For Bell Expressvu the menu consists of about 6 blue rows of programming material. These blue rows or bars are at a pretty strong intensity. As you move down them, they highlight as a light powder blue.

Here's what I find very interesting. If you highlight one of the blue bars in the center of the screen, the whole image dims by about 10%+. If you highlight a blue bar that falls outside of the 16x9 general area there is no dimming!

So, if there is a built-in light limiter, the sensor has only to do with the center portion of the screen. I'm also betting that there is no service menu option to adjust the sensitivity of this "switch" though software, but there probibly is an adjustment for the inside back. It's probably something set at the factory to a "general" or safe range. Where ever this adjustment item is (if there is one) I'm confident you could at least lighten the effect of this dimming to a satisfactory amount.

I just bought a KD-36XS955 about a month and a half ago, after much reading on AVS forums. Overall, I love the picture, but I've noticed a couple problems that I would like fixed, but I'm wondering if expecting perfection, and it's just not going to happen. Some of the things I've noticed are:

1. At the top of the screen, in the middle, the red beam is out of alignment (too high). White horizontal lines going across the top of the screen (such as the program guide) have a red edge on the top, in the middle of the screen. Alignment everywhere else seems to be pretty good.

2. Horizontal lines bend down slightly on the right edge of the screen.

3. When displaying a solid color on the entire screen, the center of the screen is brighter, especially when displaying white. The top left corner of the screen seems dimmer than the other corners.

I know that direct view CRTs are prone to these sorts of issues. Is it reasonable for me to expect a technician to fix these problems? Or do I just have to accept these as "normal" for a direct view CRT tube? (When viewing normal video, they're really not noticable.)

I've purchased the AVIA DVD, and used it to do user-level calibrations (not service mode stuff). It definitely helped. I've read most of the recent posts here regarding calibrations (I've found KenTech's posts to be especially interesting), but I'm more than a little afraid of diving into the service menus myself, especially while it's still under the 90 day service warranty. I'd rather have a qualified Sony-authorized technician do it, but I'm wondering if they'll just say it's within specs. If they tell me there's nothing they can do, can I try to fix these problem myself in the service menus? Or does it take special hardware?

Thanks (and sorry for all the questions)!

Originally posted by higgs05

1. At the top of the screen, in the middle, the red beam is out of alignment (too high). White horizontal lines going across the top of the screen (such as the program guide) have a red edge on the top, in the middle of the screen. Alignment everywhere else seems to be pretty good.

2. Horizontal lines bend down slightly on the right edge of the screen.

3. When displaying a solid color on the entire screen, the center of the screen is brighter, especially when displaying white. The top left corner of the screen seems dimmer than the other corners.
Are you sure you haven't been watching my TV? :-) Situations nos. 1 and 2 are almost certainly static alignment/convergence issues accomplished with magnet adjustments inside the set. I would find out, for your area, what Sony authorized repair dealer/center has a really good "magnet guy," and get him to come out under warranty. Ask around at the local high-end specialty stores that sell Sony and other good CRT TVs. You lose only if the guy is an idiot and makes it worse.

For that dark corner, ask him to fix the "landing" settings in service mode for that corner. My upper-left corner was dark, too, and I easily fixed it (my very first act in service mode). It's #0 (LT) in the "Landing" group. I touched up the other corners, too, (nos. 1-3) and it's quite even now.

For #3, I think we all have to live with that. The set I auditioned at the store where I bought mine, my own set, and one I've seen since at Fry's all have "hot" centers. Probably a quirk of the electric/magnetic lens that has to somehow focus the beam over that huge screen and at severe angles on a flat screen. I haven't looked critically at a 34" set for the same problem.

You're right in that one can go thru a whole evening of enjoying the set without ever noticing the hot spot, unless you really look for it. But on those slow, outdoors horizon-and-sky pans, I really see it! But, for me, it's a small imperfection in an otherwise stupendous display.

Thanks for the great info! That clears up the questions I had about what can be fixed in the menus, what requires hardware (magnets) and what is normal for a direct view tube. I'll try to get someout out, and hope they are a magnet master!

All in all, I'm very pleased with the set. It took me a while to get used to SD DirecTV on it, but DVDs, OTA HD and the Xbox all look fantastic. It's funny how I notice things like compression artifacts and brightness/black level issues much more on this set than on my old KV-27V25. Of course, I paid a lot more for the 36XS955, so I have higher standards.

KenTech, thanks for all the great posts. I look forward to reading your future discoveries and I might even dive into the service menus myself some day.

<Situations nos. 1 and 2 are almost certainly static alignment/convergence issues accomplished with magnet adjustments inside the set.>

I had a Sony tech visit recently to fix the geometry on my 36xs955 (a horizontal bend in wide-screen mode) and convergence and asked him about use of magnets.

He replied that the new sets - such as 36xs955 - do not need magnets as the geometry adjustments are done electrostatically through the service menu.

He was able to improve the convergence and geometry though not completely (convergence is OK in the center but worse on the sides) and there is still some horizontal bow. But it's better now.

So do magnets offer some advantages over the electrostatic adjustments in the service menu or did the Sony guy take the easy way out?

Originally posted by wohlstad
<Situations nos. 1 and 2 are almost certainly static alignment/convergence issues accomplished with magnet adjustments inside the set.>He replied that the new sets - such as 36xs955 - do not need magnets as the geometry adjustments are done electrostatically through the service menu. . . . So do magnets offer some advantages over the electrostatic adjustments in the service menu or did the Sony guy take the easy way out?
Obviously this fool hasn't read the service manual!

Sections 2.1 to 2.3 of the manual deal exclusively with the adjustment of the magnetic assemblies (purity, hexapole, TLH plate) for static convergence and purity. That means any *vertical* misalignment of the three colored beams. So if a scan line has a colored fringe or displacement up or down, that's magnets! Dynamic convergence is controlled by service-mode adjustments. That would be *horizontal* displacement/misalignment of the colored beams. Sect. 2.3.4 covers that. But it's still a *magnetic* adjustment.

Upward or downward bowing of the horizontal scan lines is not affected by any adjustment available through service mode. That would be a magnet adjustment. There are no provisions I can find in the manual for physically adjusting anything on the circuit boards.

There is no evidence that electrostatic deflection or geometry compensation is used anywhere in these sets. Everything refers to "magnets" and "coils."

I don't think that tech know what he's talking about, IMHO.

Well, just as soon as I decided to get this set-Best Buy has discontinued them!! There is only one unit available in my area, an open boxer with significant damage to one leg & the lower part of the cabinet on one side(The screen and immediate surrounding bezel look OK) . I can get it for $300 off retail + a %15 off open box coupon. Here's the question- could the damage just be something like an errant forklift which would not affect the picture or was it dropped while moving it and scrambled up internally. Should I take a chance on it and if so what should i look for in testing it out before purchase? I need to make a decision fairly quickly, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Being the tinkering type, I think I'm going to pull the housing off the back of this TV to take a look at what kind of manual switches the board and gun have. Won't do anything crazy or start jamming screwdrivers all over the place.. just want a peak :)

On a different matter, concerning cables....

I wrote a while back about using just Component (YPBr, you know the deal) from my Arcam amp into the TV. My Amp can upconvert any lesser signal such as S-Video or Composite, along with higher res DVD, to go out of the Component cable for a single connection to your TV.

The Arcam also allows me to run both an S-video and a Component cable at the same time to my TV. SD and DVD can pass though the Component, while only SD can pass though the S-cable. I have thus labled Input 6 as "DVD" (component) and Input 3 as "SAT" (s-video).

The reason I've decided to run both is that with SD material, the S-video cable seems to retain some of the depth of color much better than when it gets upconverted though the receiver's Component outputs. And since there's no more or no less signal compared with either cable type (it is just a 480i signal) sharpness between the two runs, when comparing the same materials though the different TV inputs (and similar picture settings), seems indistinguishable. For the S-video cable to beat Component in SD it will take a fairly pricy purchase. A low-grade S-video cable will loose clarity and muddy the picture. DVD though component though, unlike SD material, is properly saturated and just looks stunning. So don't get me wrong, component cable is worth the money. But S-video, REAL GOOD S-video, can also be worth the money.

Happy Watching!
Paul

Originally posted by logoguy905
Being the tinkering type, I think I'm going to pull the housing off the back of this TV to take a look at what kind of manual switches the board and gun have.
The service manual's photos show the strange-looking subwoofer assembly sitting draped over the top of the CRT, sort of in the way of everything on the neck of the CRT. The boards are down below, but access to the purity and convergence magnets may require removing the subwoofer first. I hope not.

My perusal of the circuit-board schematics didn't show a single adjustable component, resistor or otherwise. The HV transformer has three, for Focus and Screen voltages.

Good luck. I'm going to try this some day to touch up the geometry and purity. I think the deflection yoke is slightly crooked (not twisted).

I had a service call on this set a few weeks ago to replace the HDMI
module. While the back of set was off, I took a look around and found
several stick on type magnets applied to the back of the tube for vertical or
color purity correction.

Regarding the subwoofer assembly, it is connected with two screws and is easily removed. While studying the sub assembly, I noticed it seemed less than rigid. I wondered if it could be reinforced with additonal bracing and thus improve bass response. I may try this when the warranty period is up.

By the way, don't bang or push your HDMI cable laterally while inserting or
adjusting other connetions. This was done on my set and broke the solder
connections between the HDMI plug and the circuit board. I've heard TIVO
owners complain about this weakness in particular.

I saw an Open Box 34XS955 at a local electronics store. It didn't appear to have any missing items. The price out the door would be $1227. Is this a deal too good to pass up?

If it's a BB, heelzfan, there are 15% off coupons available. After using that its a no-braner. Let me know if you need a link.

I saw an Open Box 34XS955 at a local electronics store. It didn't appear to have any missing items. The price out the door would be $1227. Is this a deal too good to pass up?

The only way you get a better deal is with a ski mask and a shotgun! MOVE! :eek: :D

Just make sure you have 100 percent coverage on open boxed items.

I bought one of these and it is shipping tomorrow. it was an open box from best buy, and with the 15% coupon it came to about $1200, everything looked fine in the store. They also had the older model 36" sony for $1,600, but the kd36xs955 was only $1350, didn't make much sense to me.

Does anyone know what the native resolution of this TV is? I downloaded the manual from Sony but it doesn't specify this information.

TIA!

Does anyone know what the native resolution of this TV is? I downloaded the manual from Sony but it doesn't specify this information.
I had to measure it so I could create test patterns. There is an exact number vertically, but, since this set has an inherently analog CRT display, the horizontal may be anything, like a hi-res computer CRT monitor.

For square pixels via memory stick, it is 1080h X 1440w interlaced ("Full" scan mode). Anything else is resampled vertically (and done well, I might add). For HD vertical, it would be 1080. 720 is resampled.

For DVD, it is 480 X 720, and the pixels are non-square. Again, I can't say personally that the set has a *native* horizontal resolution, but the DRC processing is likely all-digital, and I would place my bet on 720. I can't speak to 1080i through HDMI or V5/V6 (component).

Bottom line: If a jpg image of 1080 X 1440 is displayed from memory stick, it is shown very accurately, pixel-for-pixel.

I had to measure it so I could create test patterns. There is an exact number vertically, but, since this set has an inherently analog CRT display, the horizontal may be anything, like a hi-res computer CRT monitor.

For square pixels via memory stick, it is 1080h X 1440w interlaced ("Full" scan mode). Anything else is resampled vertically (and done well, I might add). For HD vertical, it would be 1080. 720 is resampled.

For DVD, it is 480 X 720, and the pixels are non-square. Again, I can't say personally that the set has a *native* horizontal resolution, but the DRC processing is likely all-digital, and I would place my bet on 720. I can't speak to 1080i through HDMI or V5/V6 (component).

Bottom line: If a jpg image of 1080 X 1440 is displayed from memory stick, it is shown very accurately, pixel-for-pixel.

KenTech,

Thanks for the thorough explaination. The reason I asked about the native resolution is that I am trying to determine whether to go with a upscaling DVD player for the TV or just a plain [high quality] progressive unit.

I have tried 480p on this TV (with DRC set to "Progressive") and the pq is wonderful. However, given that it has a HDMI input, I am curious about 720p/1080i as well. I recall from another thread that pq, especially with HD, greatly depends on the native resolution of the display and the source.

Just to make it even more confusing...since the Sony is 4:3, it's not doing "true" HD (which is 16:9 only, I assume) even if it's set to do 720p/1080i, right?

TIA for all your help! :D

<since the Sony is 4:3, it's not doing "true" HD (which is 16:9 only, I assume) even if it's set to do 720p/1080i, right?>

The set will do "true" HD in wide screen mode - you'll see black bars on top and bottom with the net effect being 33" diag. 16:9 picture. As far as I can tell, vertical resolution in that mode is still 1080i.

Just to make it even more confusing...since the Sony is 4:3, it's not doing "true" HD (which is 16:9 only, I assume) even if it's set to do 720p/1080i, right?
Wohlstad has it right. When the TV detects an HD signal, it compresses the full 1080 lines (interlaced) to the proper height for 16:9, and that ratio can be tweaked in service mode if it's not quite right. No scan lines in those black bars top and bottom.

Same with anamorphic DVDs sent to the TV in 480i. Player send out an "anamorphic" tag, and the TV compresses all 960 lines (upsampled from 480) to a correct 16:9 ratio. No scan lines wasted on letterboxing. Beautiful DVD display!

<When the TV detects an HD signal, it compresses the full 1080 lines (interlaced) to the proper height for 16:9, and that ratio can be tweaked in service mode if it's not quite right. >

When I was considering the 36xs over its 34" wide-screen cousins, I had a hard time believing its vertical resolution in wide-screen mode was same. It just didn't make economic sence for Sony to have the tube which did pretty much everything as the other two in wide mode, yet have this large 4:3 screen and cost substantially less. But apparently its true.

Thus either Sony has large margins on its 34" XS and XBR, or it is prepared to lose $ on the 36". Either way, the 36xs represents an exceptional value - and will probably not see it for much longer.

Hello all! Short time reader, first time poster.

I bought my KD-36XS955 from Best Buy the Saturday before the Super Bowl along with a Bush VS47366 stand. The Sony stand didn’t cut the mustard with the loving Mrs. C.

I didn’t go with the 34XS because most of our viewing is 4x3. Although the 34XS is almost an inch wider, the 36XS is 5 inches taller. With virtually the same HD/DVD picture size, a much larger 4x3 image and space limitations, the 36XS gives me more bang for the buck.

I initially used AVIA to calibrate and then picked up DVE after I borrowed one from a friend of mine. I had trouble with the HD picture being dark. I changed the black level from my DVD player to enhanced and recalibrated. That took care of that.

With good source material the picture is awesome. Unfortunately, not all source material is created equal.

I’m running a Toshiba SD-2109 DVD player and a Denon AVR-3300. My settings on my 36XS are:

Mode: Movie
Picture: 19
Brightness: 45
Color: 33
Hue: 0
Sharpness: 23
Color temp: neutral
VM: off

I about fell out of my chair when I noticed after I got home that the top wasn't flat. So the following week I had a custom stand made to fit on top of the set for the center channel speaker. Now I'm contemplating on upgrading my DVD player. Now if I can figure out how to get that past the loving Mrs. C.

Hey Tom,
How does the stand fit the 36xs955? Match up well color-wise? Is it stable with all that front-loaded weight? I saw this stand today and it looks a little beefier compared to others. I cant take a chance with a 270 pound TV.

It doesn't look bad. It's not as snug around the edges as I'd like, but that the way it goes with a one size fits all stand. The colors are close enough where no one has said anything.

I'm concerned about the front weight too. One of these days I need to put a strap form the back of the TV to the stand, just to be safe.

The batteries in the digital camera are dead. Later when I get back from the store with some new ones, I'll snap a pic or two and post them.

shugazer9,

Here are some pics of my 36XS and the Bush stand.

Tom C

Thanks for the pix, Tom. The TV looks like it is well-supported. Iv bought a lot of Bush AV furniture and like the quality. I may have to paint those silver feet, though!

If anyone is interested, here are a couple of pics of the stand that I had made for my center channel speaker. It's satin black anodized aluminum. I think it's about .063" thick (I've misplaced the reciept). I glued a material on the bottom that feels a bit like rubber. I got it at the local fabric store. That is to keep it from slidding around and from possibly scratching the TV. I have rubber feet on the bottom of the speaker. Small ones in front and larger ones in back to angle it down toward the listener.

One of these days I may get some gray paint to help the front portion of it to blend in better with the TV color.

i notice that when i pick up a 720p signal the picture becomes really small, is this suppose to happen? should I just use the picture button on the remote to blow it up?

Well, I just clicked on this TV. (Clicked meaning bought) While I have no doubt that HD and DVDs will look great, I am hoping that 4:3 material, like TCM and music videos will look OK. I am upgrading a 32" Toshiba IDTV that I have had for 13 years. Tom- have you noticed any picture discoloration from your center channel speaker? I have a big 34" wide Polk center channel speaker that i hope will fit in the Bush stand. If not, CC sells a center channel speaker stand that looks pretty sturdy. I decided to get a first-class CRT because I was dissatisfied with the black levels of my HS10 LCD FP. I'll get back into FP in a couple of upgrade cycles, but in the meantime this set will have to do.

I know we aren't supposed to talk about street pricing. But it looks like MSRP might have been dropped about $400? Anyone else see this?

I didn’t go with the 34XS because most of our viewing is 4x3. Although the 34XS is almost an inch wider, the 36XS is 5 inches taller. With virtually the same HD/DVD picture size, a much larger 4x3 image and space limitations, the 36XS gives me more bang for the buck.
.

No, it doesn't... While it does a decent job of showing 4:3, it trys to cram 2 million pixels into the middle 3/4 of the screen of a 330,000 pixel oriented display... it show Widescreen HDTV as low def shortscreen. Since HDTV has 3-6 times the pixels of SDTV, it needs a larger area for display. 4:3 displays semi-compatible with HDTV are NOT the answer... they aren't compatible with EITHER standard.

shugazer9,
No problem with my center speaker. It's a NHT1C and appears to have good shielding. I had it sitting on my old Mits 31" for over 10 years and no problem there either.

56Oval,
I stopped in at BB a few of weeks ago and it was dropped at least $200 and I think they had a sale on top of that.

RSawdey,
That may be true, but for my situation it fits. Sometimes we have to make concessions.

Wohlstad has it right. When the TV detects an HD signal, it compresses the full 1080 lines (interlaced) to the proper height for 16:9, and that ratio can be tweaked in service mode if it's not quite right. No scan lines in those black bars top and bottom.

Same with anamorphic DVDs sent to the TV in 480i. Player send out an "anamorphic" tag, and the TV compresses all 960 lines (upsampled from 480) to a correct 16:9 ratio. No scan lines wasted on letterboxing. Beautiful DVD display!

This post (and others like it) have led me to believe that the 36XS955 *does* render HD signals with HD resolution (~1080 horizontal) within the "letterbox" area in the center of the screen.

Is this not true? (Tell me, before I pull the trigger and buy one!)

No, it doesn't... While it does a decent job of showing 4:3, it trys to cram 2 million pixels into the middle 3/4 of the screen of a 330,000 pixel oriented display... it show Widescreen HDTV as low def shortscreen. Since HDTV has 3-6 times the pixels of SDTV, it needs a larger area for display. 4:3 displays semi-compatible with HDTV are NOT the answer... they aren't compatible with EITHER standard.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the KD-36XS955, like other 4x3 direct view HD sets, is a "330,000 pixel oriented display." It's a 1080i HD oriented display, which upscales SD content (using DRC). So, to my understanding, it's just the opposite of what RSawdey said. It excels at HD content, being fully compatible with all of today's HD standards, and does a pretty decent job at upscaling SD content to display on its HD display.

Can anyone back me up on this?

<I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the KD-36XS955, like other 4x3 direct view HD sets, is a "330,000 pixel oriented display." It's a 1080i HD oriented display, which upscales SD content (using DRC). So, to my understanding, it's just the opposite of what RSawdey said. It excels at HD content, being fully compatible with all of today's HD standards, and does a pretty decent job at upscaling SD content to display on its HD display.

Can anyone back me up on this? >

This seems correct. The 36xs has the same SFP tube design as the 34". Actually over the 4:3 display it may well be 1400x1440i, but is about 1400x1080i in the wide-screen mode.

Some one - in this thread - used memory stick to measure the resolution.

I came up with similar results using my digital camera.

Given the recent deals on this tube, the 36xs is one heck of a value - and probably the last of its kind.

It excels at HD content, being fully compatible with all of today's HD standards, and does a pretty decent job at upscaling SD content to display on its HD display.
Absolutely dead-on! The 36XS955 (which I own) is, remember, an inherently *analog* display with some digital processing of the signal. The scanned area (the "raster" = *all* scan lines) can be scaled to any vertical dimension. When displaying HD broadcasts, the display is 1080i compressed to fit the correct height, and this is also true of anamorphic DVDs, except they are displayed as 960i ("Interlaced" mode) or 480p ("Progressive" or "CineMotion" modes). The black areas above and below the raster contain *no* wasted scan lines.

[I'm the guy who measured the "resolution" of this set, since I needed to know how to display jpeg test patterns from a memory stick at pixel-accurate scale. Vertically, this means 1 pixel per scan line, and MS images are interpreted with square pixels. When I made test patterns at 1080h X 1440w, they displayed precisely as I had hoped. The same patterns, remade to 1080h X 1920w, display accurately on the 34" sets. The 1080-pixel vertical dimension is the key factor. Other vertical resolutions are smoothly scaled to fit, but only 1080 is *not* scaled.]

The 34XBR960 and all XS-series sets have the same basic chassis, except for the CRT and some bell-and-whistle features, additional tuner for PIP, etc.. The CRT deflection circuit is simply switched to work properly with the tube chosen.

The only difference I can imagine between HD on a 36XS955 and any of the 34" similar sets is that the CRT of the 34 *might* have a slightly smaller scanning spot size. Maybe. It may also have some corner-focus problems that aren't seen on the 36" because the HD raster on 36" does not reach the corners. So far I have focused my 36XS955 so that it displays first-rate HD broadcast to the limit of the material being broadcast -- a stunning improvement over what came out of the box. I have not seen any 34" do better. (My 16:9 "compressed" display is about 32.5" diagonal.)

I can't imagine that HD picture quality differes significantly between 34" and 36" sets in this model series. (Although I wouldn't mind having the "tunable" DRC palette of the XBR960 -- but it wasn't offered in 36" sets.)

<[I'm the guy who measured the "resolution" of this set, since I needed to know how to display jpeg test patterns from a memory stick at pixel-accurate scale. Vertically, this means 1 pixel per scan line, and MS images are interpreted with square pixels. When I made test patterns at 1080h X 1440w, they displayed precisely as I had hoped. The same patterns, remade to 1080h X 1920w, display accurately on the 34" sets. The 1080-pixel vertical dimension is the key factor. Other vertical resolutions are smoothly scaled to fit, but only 1080 is *not* scaled.]>

Ken Tech,

How did you determine that the 36xs did in fact display each pixel in your 1440x1080 MS test pattern? What was your test pattern like?

So far I have focused my 36XS955 so that it displays first-rate HD broadcast to the limit of the material being broadcast -- a stunning improvement over what came out of the box. I have not seen any 34" do better. (My 16:9 "compressed" display is about 32.5" diagonal.)

Have you posted instructions on how to do this? I definitely would be looking to carry out similar "focusing" after I get this set.

Thanks for clearing up the resolution question, BTW.

How did you determine that the 36xs did in fact display each pixel in your 1440x1080 MS test pattern? What was your test pattern like?
First, I guessed that 1080 would be the right vertical dimension, and I needed to either confirm it or discover what it should be. So I created on my computer, in Photoshop, a pure-90%-white image of exactly 1080h X 1440w. Then I used another graphics program to generate a large block of horizontal 1-pixel dark-gray lines in two versions: (a) alternating dark and light lines, i.e. 1 out of 2 dark; and (b) 1 of every 4 lines dark. I pasted these onto the template in Photoshop and saved as highest-quality jpg files. I fugured I would be easily able to spot the resampling artifacts with such a pattern if any resampling was taking place.

The pattern displayed perfectly, if annoyingly: each dark line, it turns out, was in only one of the two fields of the interlaced frame, and so they flickered madly at 30Hz. This proved that one line of my test patteern equaled one line on the TV. The 1440 width also proved that the pixels were square. A similar pattern made at 1080h X 1920w (9:16) was scaled by the TV to show full-width, but the height was resampled by the TV to fit a smaller portion of the screen. (This size has proved useful to folks with 34" sets, I have been told.)

So I proceeded to make a bunch of dynamite test patterns for MS use, and they are posted as attachments in the Sony Service Codes thread in messages nos. 24, 27-29, and 43-45. (I think that's al of them.) I couldn't have done the research for article #12 without these patterns.

Have you posted instructions on how to do this? I definitely would be looking to carry out similar "focusing" after I get this set.
Funny you should ask. The whole focus issue for me has floated to the top of my priorities these last few days because I had a tech come to my home to try a few static-convergence tweaks, and I had him twiddle the focus control on the high-voltage transformer, inside the set. What a revelation! I thought we had focused it more perfectly. Then he left.

That evening I discovered we had actually screwed it up! Center focus on medium-bright objects was perfect, but every bright-white object now appeared terribly bloated and fat -- the beam "blooming" effect, the bane of bright CRT television.

So I drilled a 1/8" hole thru one of the slots in the lower-right rear corner of the cabinet, precisely aligning it with the screwdriver slot on the focus-adjusting knob. (Not as far-out as it sounds -- worked perfectly, and everything in the area is plastic, so one doesn't have to worry about flying sparks!) I inserted a 1/8" screwdriver with 6" shaft, and was easily able to insert it into the knob. Now I had access to the CRT focus control without pulling the back off the set!

I then followed Sony's service-manual procedure for properly focusing the set, and it's now obvious to me that procedure is *everything.* The basics of what I did were already published in article #07, but without access to the focus control. And I had misinterpreted the purpose of the "DF" service code. That article now requires refinement.

So . . . I will soon write up this most-recent experience and post it in the Service Codes thread. And I am pleased to report I now have amazingly uniform focus for objects of all brightness -- even better than what came out of the box. Folks with memory-stick slots will find this most easy because of the fine test pattern they can use, but HS420 owners will do well with a good test DVD (DVE or equivalent) and a little more persistence.

Stay tuned. Mark my words: this focus issue really matters!

Dang, that's great news KenTech!

Reading your posts and others on this forum convinced me to pull the trigger and buy this set. I can't wait for it to get here (and to twiddle with all the tweaks).

Not to run afoul of the MSRP police, but the "fire sale" pricing is still out there. I got mine for far less than I ever expected, from a dealer I've used before.

Did I mention I can't wait?

The last several post seems too technical for me. But maybe that is the answer to my question:

question 1:
I just got the 36xs955 for a week. When I get the OTA station boardcasting in 720/16:9 (full), the picuture size (that is with the bar on all sides) is about the same as another station boardcasting in 1080/16:9, why ?

question 2:
if switching to "zoom", can the zoom amount be controlled. Because the "zoom" view is zooming too much.

question 1:
I just got the 36xs955 for a week. When I get the OTA station boardcasting in 720/16:9 (full), the picuture size (that is with the bar on all sides) is about the same as another station boardcasting in 1080/16:9, why ?
I think I understand your question. Just because you tuned-in a station broadcasting a standard HD signal doesn't mean the *material* is HD or even 16:9. If it's true widescreen (HD or ED), it will fill the screen horizontally. If it's 4:3 (most commercials), it will be also pillarboxed left and right. If it's letterboxed 16:9 formatted to 4:3 and then broadcast in HD, well I think that's called "postage stamp." True widescreen does not have a bar on all sides, and on the 36XS955 the top and bottom bars are truly blank, the whole scanned area having been shrunk vertically. This applies to 720p and 1080i material equally, as the 720p format is transparently resampled to and displayed at 1080i.

question 2:
if switching to "zoom", can the zoom amount be controlled. Because the "zoom" view is zooming too much.
Yeah. Isn't it the pits. Turns out that the *width* of the zoomed modes is shared with other normal modes, and if you screw with the Zoom width (in service mode), you mess it up in other modes. You can adjust the *height* or aspect ratio of these modes fairly independently in service mode, but it's the width thing that hurts!

I find sometimes it's better watching the SD broadcast over the HD because of the varying 4x3 and HD stuff, even with the zoom function. It's just something we'll have to deal with for a while I guess.

The audio is hit and miss too. Some of the March Maddeness college games had awesome 5.1 while others kind of sucked.

my tv has a green tint in the left top corner. i only really notice it when the screen is white in that area. is this a flaw in the tube or something that can be fixed? I bought it open box from best buy 2 weeks ago so I can still return no questions asked if that is the best course of action.

my tv has a green tint in the left top corner. i only really notice it when the screen is white in that area. is this a flaw in the tube or something that can be fixed?It *could* be a flaw in the tube, but it's more likely a beam-landing problem. And that can usually be adjusted. You didn't confirm what kind of TV you have; but if it's a 36XS955, the adjustment is easy and safe in service mode. Try reading Post #80, part (3), in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5687363&highlight=EWSP#post5687363

Also, as many have suggested, make sure you don't have any under-shielded loudspeakers near the sides on on top of the set, as they can cause color blotches on-screen. (Stray magnetic fields affect color purity.)

It *could* be a flaw in the tube, but it's more likely a beam-landing problem. And that can usually be adjusted. You didn't confirm what kind of TV you have; but if it's a 36XS955, the adjustment is easy and safe in service mode. Try reading Post #80, part (3), in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5687363&highlight=EWSP#post5687363

Also, as many have suggested, make sure you don't have any under-shielded loudspeakers near the sides on on top of the set, as they can cause color blotches on-screen. (Stray magnetic fields affect color purity.)


right on the money with the beam-landing adjustment! that got rid of the green in no time. thanks.

I've had this tv for a while and I'm very happy with it; however, the startup cycle has bugged me for a while. When I power on, it takes quite about 15 seconds to get a picture (I presume because it needs to warm up). During the entire cycle, the power on button flashes about 8 to 10 times. Is this normal?

Most tvs I've had in the past have a solid power light on when powering up (and operating) and any type of flashing of the power light indicates it has a problem. Since the tv appears to operate normally, I just want to confirm its the normal process for this tv model since I can't find anything about it in the manual.

Thanks.

Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered this set through Sony Style a week ago. Its been sitting at the local office of Sony Style's "Premiere Delivery Service" for two days here in Houston and I can't get NVC Direct (Sony Style Premiere Delivery Contractor) to schedule delivery!!!

I've called the NVC 1-800 number and get some good Soprano attitude though "Whadda you want me tuh do, I'm in New Joisey, your TV is in Houston"

I've also called Sony Style and their customer service representative tried to schedule a delivery and only got a "They'll try to call you today"

AVOID ORDERING THIS SET THROUGH SONY STYLE!!!

I've had this tv for a while and I'm very happy with it; however, the startup cycle has bugged me for a while. When I power on, it takes quite about 15 seconds to get a picture (I presume because it needs to warm up). During the entire cycle, the power on button flashes about 8 to 10 times. Is this normal?

I've had it since early February. There is a small delay, but just a few seconds. The next time I switch it on I'll take notice on what happens and for how long.

Is Sony discontinuing this model? Coz there are no Bestbuys around where I live that are carrying this model anymore. Even their site says they wont ship it to my place. Any new models in pipeline? *curious*

praveensq-
I just recieved this set today. Like you, I was going to get it via BB, only to find they wouldnt deliver. I went with a Chicago area etailer (Check group buy at Agoraquest) They matched the current BB price with no tax and free shipping(No stand, which I couldnt use anyway). Right out of the box, I am very impressed with the picture. Im sure with some tweaking it will be awesome. It's possible the price may come down a bit, but I'd snag one while you can. This may be the last of the great 4:3 tubes.

When I power on, it takes quite about 15 seconds to get a picture (I presume because it needs to warm up). During the entire cycle, the power on button flashes about 8 to 10 times. Is this normal?
Yep. Mine does it every time. You are booting up a Linux operating system, checking several RAM chips, and whose-knows-what-else. I would imagine they are allowing the cathode of the CRT to reach operating temperature before demanding that it fill the screen with electrons.

One doesn't "turn on" this TV. One "starts up" or "boots up" this TV! The flashing LED is a status indicator, and if there is an internal error, your screen will go dark and the light will flash a diagnostic code. Otherwise it's off when everything is running just fine.

Last night watched 'Dances With Wolves' in HD-no problem....this morning went to turn on the TV...nothing but black screen, no video source graphics, no snowstorm fuzz.....nothing. Am about to call a service guy, maybe you guys know, or have heard of this??? Mind you, I have 2 LIVELY cats jumping on who knows what during the night, a button on one of the remotes??(tv or cable) The set goes through its normal boot up procedure-blinking red light...but then nothing. We have a splitter in the basement, and the bedroom set works just fine yet. Any ideas (KenTech)before I call for service tomorrow????

The set goes through its normal boot up procedure-blinking red light...but then nothing.
Ah. Sounds like the now-infamous standby bug! (Hope so, because it's easy to fix.) Try unplugging the set for several seconds, and then plug it back in and try again to start it.

Something seems to go awry in standby mode. Has hit me and several others. Heart-stopping! Hope that's it. No one really knows the cause.

P.S. You must never, ever let your cats see you press the buttons that invoke service mode!

THANK YOU Ken, what you suggested worked awesome!!!!! This set is sooo cool. I owe you big time! MY wife is soo happy...you are the sheight!

Originally Posted by gccjr
I've had this tv for a while and I'm very happy with it; however, the startup cycle has bugged me for a while. When I power on, it takes quite about 15 seconds to get a picture (I presume because it needs to warm up). During the entire cycle, the power on button flashes about 8 to 10 times. Is this normal?

I've had it since early February. There is a small delay, but just a few seconds. The next time I switch it on I'll take notice on what happens and for how long.

WOW! 9 seconds. I guess you're not too far off.

Thanks for assuring me that all is working well. What brought on the question at this point was the same thing as csyhow... I turned on the tv earlier this week (right after an electrical storm) and had no picture on any source (cable was killed during the storm and I thought for certain it must have taken out the tv too). On a lark, I unplugged the tv and plugged it back in and it worked fine, but I wanted to make sure that the startup pattern was not systematic of a bigger problem. I'm glad to hear that it is not and all is working fine! Now to get brave enough to attempt some of the tweaks Ken has posted!

Well, I received my 36xs955 finally from SonyStyle a couple days ago and want to give my impressions.

1. Sony Style Online. Where do I start? Their "Premier Delivery Service" is anything but. Sony Style uses a 3rd party NVS Direct for shipping. NVS does has a website where you can follow your package online as it is scanned at each destination. SonyStyle shipped my set the day after I ordered it on Thursday. On Sunday it was at the NVS depot in Houston and there it sat for 5 days while I begged and pleaded with Sonystyle and NVS to please schedule a delivery. They finally scheduled delivery when I threatened to cancel my purchase via American Express and let Sony Style just eat the shipping on this set back to New Jersey. It was finally delivered by 2 small guys that each were at least 60lbs shy of this 238lb set. It picked up 2 small scratches on the side (about a 1/2" each) while they wrassled this set down my hallway. If anyone has patched the silver paint on the sides of this set I would be very interested in finding out the brand and color they used so I can patch it.

2. Is Sony stopping the manufacture of this set? The assembly date on the label on the back of the set with the serial number is dated May 2005 so it was still being assembled as of last month.

3. The picture on this set IS impressive. It replaces my Sony 24fs100 and the DRC multifunction DOES deliver a better analog picture via cable than I was receiving on my analog fs100. Don't let the substandard signal used in some stores put you off on it. As for Digital 480i, I can't answer that. The cablecard I got from TimeWarner Cable is apparently not decoding the digital portion of their broadcast. TimeWarner is sending out a technician in 2 days to check this out. I am receiving the local hd broadcasts over TimeWarner cable though and they are quite nice.

4. The matching Sony stand matches up with this set nicely with 2 pegs in the front and a clamp and screw in the rear to steady it and it actually looks like one large unit. I have the glass shelf on the bottom slot and it gives 12" to stack home theatre components. The stand is a little low if you want to use this set for bedroom viewing with the picture beginning at 23" above the floor and ending at 45".

Overall I'm very happy with it but I would suggest you find a local store that handles this product.

Wow, this is an amazing site.
I just joined the 36xs955 band wagon few weeks ago, bought it from bestbuy on sale. It was truely a killer deal. The PQ is incredible especially on HD content.

I only had the set for a few weeks and already I am starting to be concerned with "Burn In" issues. My original plans for buying this set was to spend 80% watching analog channels and 20% on HD channels. However, I did not realize how I was going to be so addicted to watching HD channels.
I think now I spend about 50% watching HD channels and 50% watching analog channels. I am afraid after a few months of my watching habit, I will start to see burn in issues due to the black bars on the top and bottom from watching too much HD contents.

I heard of someone developing a Reverse Jpeg image with white on top and bottom and black in middle? Has anyone done it on this site and if so what are the exact resolution of the jpeg and the dimensions of the top and bottom white bars in the image?
I was thinking of runng this image for a few hours a week to compensate my watching habits. Do you guys think I am over reacting to this whole burn in phenomenon? Thanks! :)

I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955!!!!

At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.

So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?

I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!

Thanks! :cool:

I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955!!!!

At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.

So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?

I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!

Thanks! :cool:

It doesn't crop the image, it squeezes it down to the proper aspect ratio of 16x9. The 16x9 image size on the 36XS is about equivalent to a 33" widescreen.

There is a zoom feature on the remote that allows you to expand the picture to the sides, top and bottom and in both directions.

<Sony Style Online. Where do I start? Their "Premier Delivery Service" is anything but.>

This was my experience also. Additionally, Sonystyle's 30-day return policy apparently starts from the day of shipment, not when the set is delivered. In my case the delivery took 2 weeks - thus the 30-day got cut in half.

ANNOUNCEMENT. Big 2-part article #13 now posted in Sony Service Codes thread on focusing these sets.

The big ol' box arrived on Friday, and I've been enjoying it all weekend.

The PQ wasn't bad right out of the box, once I got it out of torch mode. But I'm wondering where to go first with tweaks -- right into the service menu, or try to burnin/live with it a bit? Also, I'm wondering what's the best way to adjust non-DVD connected inputs (such as the ATSC tuner)?

I have AVIA for the DVD side.

And HD TiVo about to be installed...whoopee!

First, I guessed that 1080 would be the right vertical dimension, and I needed to either confirm it or discover what it should be. So I created on my computer, in Photoshop, a pure-90%-white image of exactly 1080h X 1440w. Then I used another graphics program to generate a large block of horizontal 1-pixel dark-gray lines in two versions: (a) alternating dark and light lines, i.e. 1 out of 2 dark; and (b) 1 of every 4 lines dark. I pasted these onto the template in Photoshop and saved as highest-quality jpg files. I fugured I would be easily able to spot the resampling artifacts with such a pattern if any resampling was taking place.

The pattern displayed perfectly, if annoyingly: each dark line, it turns out, was in only one of the two fields of the interlaced frame, and so they flickered madly at 30Hz. This proved that one line of my test patteern equaled one line on the TV. The 1440 width also proved that the pixels were square. A similar pattern made at 1080h X 1920w (9:16) was scaled by the TV to show full-width, but the height was resampled by the TV to fit a smaller portion of the screen. (This size has proved useful to folks with 34" sets, I have been told.)

So I proceeded to make a bunch of dynamite test patterns for MS use, and they are posted as attachments in the Sony Service Codes thread in messages nos. 24, 27-29, and 43-45. (I think that's al of them.) I couldn't have done the research for article #12 without these patterns.

I want permission to use the JPGs in a test Memory Stick (when I can finally pull the trigger on the KV-30XS955 I have my eye on) for image calibration purposes (the 30", like all other XS models, supports da Stick).

I want permission to use the JPGs in a test Memory Stick . . .
Thoughtful of you to ask, but I really intend them to be in the public domain, no strings attached.

I'm less than a week into xs955 heaven -- and still floating on a soft, downy cloud of PQ. But the audio has me stumped:

I'm running audio from the "Monitor" output on the XS955 to my Dolby Pro Logic receiver, and out to a 5.1 speaker setup. I get audio at the Monitor jacks when watching SD programming on any input, but not when viewing digital programming (SD or HD) delivered via cable or OTA. Also, the jacks go dead when watching progressive video from my DVD player.

Is this normal?

Is there any way to get audio output for all sources?

Is there any way to use the XS955 as the "switcher" for audio to the surround system (as I was doing with my previous Panny set), or do I need to cable all the sources separately, then switch the receiver and XS955 to the same source?

Thanks in advance for any help...

I'm running audio from the "Monitor" output on the XS955 to my Dolby Pro Logic receiver, and out to a 5.1 speaker setup. I get audio at the Monitor jacks when watching SD programming on any input, but not when viewing digital programming (SD or HD) delivered via cable or OTA. Also, the jacks go dead when watching progressive video from my DVD player.

Is this normal?

Is there any way to get audio output for all sources?

Is there any way to use the XS955 as the "switcher" for audio to the surround system (as I was doing with my previous Panny set), or do I need to cable all the sources separately, then switch the receiver and XS955 to the same source?


Yes, this is normal. Digital programming has digital audio, which is only output via the optical TosLink jack. The TV won't convert digital audio to analog, or vice versa. I have the optical output hooked up to one of the optical inputs on my receiver, and I didn't even connect the analog outputs. I think the TV has pretty good stereo sound, so if I'm watching analog TV (which is rare), I just use the TV's speakers. If I'm watching a digital channel, I'll use the receiver for audio so I can take advantage of 5.1 (if it's being broadcast that way).

Since the TV doesn't have any digital audio inputs, it doesn't work as a switcher for my setup. Basically, I have all my video sources going into the TV, and all my audio sources going into my receiver. So I use the TV to select the video and the receiver to select the audio. It's a little bit of a hassle, but since the HD tuner is built in to the TV, I can't route that through the receiver, so I find it easier (and perhaps a little better looking) to use the TV to switch all video sources.

Appreciate the info, higgs05. The manual was unclear (or silent) on this point.

I happen to have an outboard D/A converter. Wonder if I could use that to decode the optical output and send it into my amp...

found a floor model 36xs955 but the picture quality looks worse than the 34 widescreens next to it. it just did not show the detail of the others. it is at lakeland fl bb if anyone wants to check it out, also after a year on the sales floor quite a bit of usage. thanks

Would a REFURBISHED 36XS955 for $1099+tax be worth it? I have a local Sony outlet near me and they have refurbished models. I even saw a 36XBR800 that they were selling for more than the 36XS955 which i thought was a little crazy. Apparently these prices are set in stone, so there is no bartering

I know it is refurbished, and this will be the main tv for me. I am a little jittery about that, but wondered if it was worth it.

Also, do these XS955 have PIp(split screen)? I never thought I would care for PIP, but the split screen is nice. Especially with football season coming up. It is a nice feature I never thought I would want.

Would a REFURBISHED 36XS955 for $1099+tax be worth it?
I have a local Sony outlet near me and they have refurbished models.

DO IT! If they'll provide warranty and service, this is a steal!


I even saw a 36XBR800 that they were selling for more than the 36XS955 which i thought was a little crazy. Apparently these prices are set in stone, so there is no bartering

I know it is refurbished, and this will be the main tv for me. I am a little jittery about that, but wondered if it was worth it.

Also, do these XS955 have PIp(split screen)? I never thought I would care for PIP, but the split screen is nice. Especially with football season coming up. It is a nice feature I never thought I would want.

No, the WS xs does not have PIP. That's why one of the reasons I went for the XBR960. The XBR800 does have PIP.

So, if you want PIP with Sony, methinks you must go XBR. I'm not sure if the 36xs955 has PIP, but I'm sure an owner will be along shortly to tell us.

I bought a refurb computer monitor from Sony. Darn thing went bad on me. I vowed never to buy refurb again.

Local BB has three sets available for local pickup after purchase on their web site. There seems to be a concensus that these are very good sets and worth the money. Price is $1499 with a free stand. Any thoughts?

<I'm not sure if the 36xs955 has PIP, but I'm sure an owner will be along shortly to tell us.
>

The TV itself does not have it, but often the cable box does. For example, I have PIP through my TimeWarner STB (HD with DVR). I should qualify this though - PIP is only for cable channels. You can not mix diffrent sources on same screen (say displaying DVD and cable at same time).

I personally find little use for this feature - the 36" screen is not that big to begin with even before splitting - but others may find it more useful.

<Price is $1499 with a free stand. Any thoughts? >

It's an OK deal. Sonystyle has been offering this for $200 more like forever - free stand, delivery and 18-month zero financing included. Still $200 is nothing to sneeze at ):

I just found this site tonight and I hope you guys can answer some questions for me since the guys at my BB don't seem to know the anwers. I purchased the HP Media entertainment center two weeks ago. I have a first generation 36XBR HDTV. Since the TV doesn't have a DVI port I could only hook the media center up by componet video in. This will only allow me to use 480dpi for my computer resolution on the TV resulting in a very large desktop and not being able to fit everything on the screen and sad PQ from my HD Sat that is plugged into the media center. I also hooked the HD Satellite with components directly into the DVD video in on the TV since the picture through the media center sucked and there was also a several second delay when using the remote and action happening on the TV. It seems the only way to correct this is to purchase a new TV. It seems as though the 36XS955 is the way to go since it has a HDVI imput. This should allow me to use a higher dpi setting and get a much sharper desktop. Please let me know what you think. I don't think I would get a better PQ with a plasma or LCD and weight is no problem but I am limited to a 40 inch wide set.
I must say that the media center is very cool in that I can now do email and internet from my TV via a full wireless system.

wohlstad

thanks for your insight on the value. Any opinion on the tv quality? Seems most posters think this is a very good set. BB has the advantage of being close and they do have an extended warranty.
thanks

<Any opinion on the tv quality? Seems most posters think this is a very good set. BB has the advantage of being close and they do have an extended warranty.>

As far as the quality, you can not do better than these Sonys with superfine pitch tubes.

There are arguments over 36" 4:3 vs. 34" 16:9, but the 36xs will produce 33" picture in wide mode anyway, with same PQ, but since so much of current programming is in 4:3, it will produce a much bigger picture in SD than the 34" (over 75% larger area).

The big 36" is also usually offered at better discount than the 34". As you can tell, I've got the 36" (price was not the issue here) - the 34" tube was too small for me.

Thanks for your help. I've seen 42" ED plasma tv's and haven't been that impressed with the picture quality. The tube sets still seem to have the best picture for the money. What I find strange with this Sony model is that BB is discontinuing selling it. It isn't that old, less than a year? Is there a history of problems with the set? Consumers report has reported on tv's several times over the last 18 months but nothing on this model. No mention of it. Sony always seems to come out at the top of the list with other models.

Anyway, thanks for your help and insight.

By the way, this forum is fascinating. Lots of useful help and guidance and even very technical info. It's great.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well,I finally went and done it after reading all of the posts(I think) relating to the xs955! My 955 will be delivered sometime next week,so I do have a few questions to start.
1. I have read both pro and con about which cables to use and how to hook up.Wether to use composite from sat receiver(not hd) to Tv or to use s-video only if very good cables.
2.And what to use from DVD player and to rcvr. or to tv?
3. Do's and don't's out of the box?

Rcvr. is Sherwood Newcastle R-945,and DVD is Panny DVD-RV80,I also have a Pioneer Dv-563a that I got just to play sacd's and dvd-a's on,so I don't know how that would be for a dvd player.
Thanks to all who already contributed!
Jim

"What I find strange with this Sony model is that BB is discontinuing selling it. It isn't that old, less than a year? Is there a history of problems with the set? "

I think size is the major issue. In addition to the weight, the 36" full screen image is a bit bloated looking compared to the 32" models, possibly due to proportionately greater geometry issues. These set's weakness is geometry compared to the flat panel displays sitting right next to them. It's amazing how much distortion we were used to. Once you get used to flat panel geometry, you start to object to large tube geometry if your set wasn't perfect. The problem with the 32" sets though is the widescreen picture is so small (29 vs 33"). But then you're buying the set because you value the larger full screen image.

<These set's weakness is geometry compared to the flat panel displays sitting right next to them. >

Geometry initially could be less than perfect, I agree. However, a lot of it can be corrected by massaging the adjustments in the service menu - that's why they are there to begin with.

Hello,

I've owned my 36xs955 for about 3 months now, and so far I'm very happy. I am curious how many of you are using the cinemotion mode instead of setting the dvd player's progressive out mode? I've been going back and forward with these modes and sometimes I see a difference and sometimes nothing. I experimented with upconverted dvd players with hdmi out, but I noticed bad macro blocking. So I finally went with a sonync875v and for the most part I'm happy with it. I would appreciate to hear how your set-up is.

Thanks,
js

When I view a light gray background on my 36XS955, I get patches of lighter and darker colors. The corners are relatively OK, between the LB corner and middle I get a yellowish looking patch. It is not apparent for normal video - I see it if I put a up 'still' menu (I have Dish).

No amount of changing 'Landing' settings has helped. Am I missing something? Please help. TIA.

Well. my 36XS955 has suddenly lost nearly all OTA HD channels. I didnt change anything and re-scanning does not bring them back. Iv got a RS antenna in the attic, which is a pain to get at. Its possible some sort of critter disturbed the antenna, but short of that is there any other reason for this to happen? Its getting close to football season-HELP!!!!

Does anyone know, or know where to find, the advanced timings for the 36XS955? I'd like to hook the TV up to my computer graphics card's DVI out and I want to make sure I specify the correct timings for this TV. I appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Drew

Just for the record...

Circuit City is having a 24 Months no interest sale on all TV's, so I thought this would be the perfect time to look for the 36XS955.

They don't have any....in the store.

The nice CC guy took me over to the store computer and showed me that no CC in the Dallas area has any of these TV's, but then he tapped some keys and showed me another number of 155.

They have 155 of these TV's in the Oklahoma warehouse. $1424. He says he can't see when they are coming, or why they don't have them. But he did say that the best he knows, they have never even had the 36" XS955 in the store. Ever.

I hope those come in before the sale is off. I want to haggle and get them down some, if thats still possible at CC.

CFG!

I got the tv/stand/delivery for $1499 deal from Sony style back in august. Awesome tv, but I wish it had 2 hdmi inputs.

The sony stand is a must have with this behemoth - I can imagine any other piece of furniture flexing and breaking under the weight. While I was shopping the manager at my local CC said they don't stock it in store because its too cumbersome to move around or lift on to a shelf.

I also had to fix a number of picture alignment issues in the service menu. A friend that was with me said "are the people doing the adjustments at the factory drunk ?" when I put the crosshatch pattern on the screen. Its all good now though. KenTech's thread has been a god send once you figure out what you're doing.

Next I'm going to get into the color adjustments to see if I can improve it a little.

Well. my 36XS955 has suddenly lost nearly all OTA HD channels. I didnt change anything and re-scanning does not bring them back. Iv got a RS antenna in the attic, which is a pain to get at. Its possible some sort of critter disturbed the antenna, but short of that is there any other reason for this to happen? Its getting close to football season-HELP!!!!

LOL well i suppose its possible a "critter" bumped into your 'tenna but its probally just a sudden loss of signal. I had the same thing happen and i didnt get any stations back until the next day..

I borrowed a ladder and found that a critter, most likely of the human variety, had knocked down a beam that the antenna was connected to. Nailed it back up and i have been getting all the channels since.

I just bought a KD-36XS955: it's my first HD TV.

My previous TV was a 9-year-old Toshiba 35" 4:3 direct-view CRT. So this TV is not much larger and in fact it fits in the same armoire the old TV fitted in (though I had to remove the front doors to make it fit).

I deliberately chose an HDTV like the KD-36XS955 because it does not increase the viewing area for displaying 4:3 material over what I was watching before. I expected *some* worsening of the SD picture over what I was used to, and I figured there was no point in making the 4:3 area any bigger than what I was already used to, since that would likely worsen the effect.

I also specifically chose the KD-36X955 instead of a plasma or LCD for high-definition because I was *hoping* that as a direct-view CRT it would do a better job of displaying SD material than a fixed-pixel display that would have to scale up the SD material. Of course it also helps that the KD-36X955 is considerably cheaper than most 45" or greater flat-panels (the smallest 16:9 display that I could buy that would display 4:3 material in as large an area as my old 35" Toshiba would be about 45").

Of course, high-definition on this set looks stunning, of course (with some small provisos about the color, which I will get to below).

BUT: I am finding that SD material on this set ranges from utterly and painfully unwatchable to just poor. In particular, I can't bear to watch anything through poor old TiVo box anymore. It is so distractingly awful to watch most SD material that I spend more time noticing how bad the picture is and less time paying attention to the show.

Some more detail:

1. I have Comcast cable. Same cable company I had before, except they brought a new cable box that delivers high-definition (it's a nice box: the Motorola 6412, with built-in PVR and two tuners: and it's the "Phase III" 6412 so it has an HDMI port, which is what I'm using to connect to the TV).

2. I still have the old SD cable box, plugged in to the back of my TiVo. It is connected to the TiVo via S-video and the TiVo is connected to the TV via S-video.

3. As pretty as HD is, I don't watch a heck of a lot of it. I don't watch sports of any shape or size or flavor, and I don't watch much network TV. My favorite stations are SciFi, TCM, USA, Sundance, IFC, Bio, and PBS. I used to watch more network TV than I do now, but there just isn't much on any more that is compelling to me. Yes, I am watching more now just because of the novelty of being able to see it in HD -- I'm even watching ER again even though that show stopped being any good several years ago, and I've checked out other shows in HD, but basically I'd rather only watch HD material when it's a show I actually WANT to watch, not just because it's HD.

So. I really want to figure out how to make the SD material more watchable.

I see a lot of scaling artifacts on SD, especially on the lower channels, or a lot of graininess. No doubt some of that is the quality of the cable feed -- I just probably didn't notice it on the old TV. So one thing I have done on the S-video input I am using for the TiVo is to turn the Sharpness way down, for instance -- though in fact I've had to turn it SO far down that the Text in the TiVo UI is actually blurred and bleeding together! When I compare my old set, the text looks quite sharp and clear on the TiVo, though any show I watch on the old set now looks like it's being displayed through gauze, and is rather washed-out.

But one thing that worries me the MOST about this Set is the *COLORS*. My biggest problem -- and though it is much worse on SD than on HD, it is still noticeable even on HD -- is that everybody looks a little too PINK. People's faces, hands, etc., look like they're a little sunburnt, or scalded. On SD it can be so bad that people actually look purple. Or sometimes in a closeup, the area around people's mouths and eyes looks especially pinkish compared to the rest of their skin. It's quite distracting. In HD material it is much more subtle: HD looks so great in general that it is much easier to ignore the slight pinkish tinge to people's faces. But in SD material it's so bad that I find myself just turning the Color level down so that everything looks kind of faded and bland.

Of course I had to stop using the idiotic "Vivid" mode right away, as soon as I got the set home. That setting has to be only useful in the showroom: I can't imagine anybody wanting to use it for real at home. Another thing I did was to make sure I set the Color temperature to "Neutral" (rather than "Warm") and also to change another setting (I forget the name of it) from "Default" to "Monitor" because the manual says that "Default" boosts the red, which I think I don't want.

Oddly enough, however, the problem doesn't seem to be correctable via Hue. This is because in addition to people having pinkish faces, there are a lot of things that appear too GREEN that shouldn't. Blond hair, for instance, or gold or brass-colored doorknobs, etc., seem to have a slight greenish cast to them: it's quite noticeable, especially on SD. (The Simpsons seem kind of greenish yellow, too, instead of just yellow.)

As I've said, the problem is most severe on some SD channels -- we were watching Foyle's War the other night on PBS, for instance, where we got pink faces and green blondes...

It seemed bizarre to me that a TV could be both too PINK *and* too GREEN at the same time. After turning off the Vivid mode, changing the color temperature to neutral (or sometimes cool) and changing from Default to Monitor, when people still seemed too pink, I would try moving the hue over to the green, but the result would be that the golds and blondes would become even more absurdly green, and yellows in general would too.

It has occurred to me that maybe the problem has something to do with the BLUE levels? Is that possible? "Hue" doesn't control blue. Perhaps there's too much blue relative to the other colors?

My old TV, as faded and fuzzy as it looks in comparison to this set, at least never had problems with skintones. They pretty much looked normal everywhere: at least, I never found myself being distracted by it and having to fiddle with the color settings when I moved from one channel to another.

Anyway. Any help I can get for calibrating this set both in terms of getting a better SD picture and better skin-tones, would be gratefully appreciated!

-- Justin

Your experiences w/the Sony 36"er surprised me because my own experiences w/my Sony (40XBR) 4:3 HDTV have been just the opposite when it comes to viewing SD programming. In fact, at times the PQ on SD rivals DVD quality. My cable is "Brighthouse" (formerly Time Warner) and my STB is Scientific Atlanta 8300HD, but even my older STB produced the same PQ.

First, because it's free & easy, I'd have your Cable Guys come out to your home and check your entire system from stem to stern, including the cable connections, etc. from the street. If that doesn't do the trick, at least you can eliminate the cable as the reason for the crappy SD. Secondly, it's possible, you may have a defective TV, or need some kind of repair. Most failures will occur on TV's within the first few months of ownership, and yours may fall into this category. Thirdly, a professional calibration may be needed, but you could also purchased one of the do-it-yourself calibration DVD's and give it a try as long as you're not too squemish about entering into the Service Menu. Good luck.

BUT: I am finding that SD material on this set ranges from utterly and painfully unwatchable to just poor...

-- Justin

Hmm... Your experience is quite the opposite of mine. I've got 36xs955 with TimeWarner Cable feeding component out. The premium digital SD channels are outstanding (these are 480p). The mid channels (standard TNT etc. stuff) are OK.

The lower channel freebies (abc, cbs, etc.) are not too great but tolerable - these are 480i and needless to say I don't use them too much since these are usually available in HD on upper channels.

Your comment about colors makes me think the TV needs basic calibration. Try DVD cal. If the problem persists you may want to call Sony service - it should be free. If the cal and TV are OK, this has to be the cable transmission.

I also found STB component connection is better than HDMI. Some people commented that using S-video is better with poor quality analog channels - you may try this with your STB.

Any help I can get for calibrating this set both in terms of getting a better SD picture and better skin-tones, would be gratefully appreciated!Make sure you change the color-display mode in Advanced to Monitor. This removes the red push but is not necessarily perfectly calibrated. Get yourself the DVE or AVIA DVDs, and calibrate the color decoding and black level in the service mode, as described early in the Sony Service Codes thread. Mine was much too red, too.

When this set is properly adjusted, great SD broadcast (I have Comcast analog cable and a JVC SVHS deck) looks better than I ever could have imagined, but as-broadcast quality is all over the map! For sure, view it at a reasonable distance for the picture size: Hold out your hand at arm's length and extend your thumb and little finger. If the picture diagonal is larger than that, you're pushing it! Folks stand next to a big-screen TV and complain about artifacts. Of course! Standard TV is mostly horrible as-broadcast, with some important exceptions. Your eye doesn't "get it" until the screen appears small enough for your brain to integrate the picture.

This set is capable of reproducing SDTV *perfectly,* trust me. The few artifacts contributed by the line doubler disappear as you move back, and similar material viewed on other-brand TVs is mostly a throw-away. Sony took it seriously.

(Like you, most of what I watch is on SD cable or DVD. Local studio broadcasts of news, the History Channel, and sometimes HGTV and FoodTV are capable of wonderful quality. Sometimes not. Evening network shows are sometimes near-perfect, but I'm getting spoiled by watching them in HD with a $26 UHF antenna.)

As I've said, the problem is most severe on some SD channels -- we were watching Foyle's War the other night on PBS, for instance, where we got pink faces and green blondes...

Justin,

I was watching Foyle's War the other night also. I saw the same problem my regular SD TV. I even made a comment to my wife about the poor colors of the recording. The pinks and greens were blotchy. It looked to me like the source material was over compressed and the colors lost out.

ceman

Thanks for all your responses!

Obviously I'm going to have to try the terrifyingly, overwhelmingly complicated Sony Service Codes thread KenTech mentioned -- I took a look at it earlier and ran screaming :-). By the way -- are there any brick-and-mortar stores that sell either DVE or Avia or is it something that one can only order online?

Another question: in general, is it better to have one's DVD player do the de-interlacing, or the TV? My old TV didn't have component inputs -- just S-video and composite -- and so now that I have the Sony I have connected up my Panasonic DVD player with component and have reset the DVD player to output 480p. Was that the right move, or should I let the Set do the deinterlacing?

Ok I got Avia from the local library and am starting to study KenTech's helpful, yet terrifying, instructions.

By the way -- I realized I was in "standard" and not "pro" mode. Selecting "pro" mode and boosting picture and brightness (the defaults were ***wayyyyyy*** too dark) and reducing color (not yet having calibrated the red in service mode, I need to reduce color saturation to keep people from looking too pink, though actually in Pro mode I seem to be able to tolerate a higher color level than in Standard). Anyway, switching to Pro mode by itself has helped quite a bit! The TiVo is now much more watchable without being blurry -- in "Standard" mode the only way to make the TiVo watchable was to reduce Sharpness to the point where text in the TiVo menus was starting to blur noticeably. Apparently there is some processing going on in Standard mode which is not going on in Pro mode? At any rate, the TiVo picture looks quite a bit better already!

I just bought a KD-36XS955: it's my first HD TV.
But one thing that worries me the MOST about this Set is the *COLORS*. My biggest problem -- and though it is much worse on SD than on HD, it is still noticeable even on HD -- is that everybody looks a little too PINK. People's faces, hands, etc., look like they're a little sunburnt, or scalded. On SD it can be so bad that people actually look purple. Or sometimes in a closeup, the area around people's mouths and eyes looks especially pinkish compared to the rest of their skin. It's quite distracting. In HD material it is much more subtle: HD looks so great in general that it is much easier to ignore the slight pinkish tinge to people's faces. But in SD material it's so bad that I find myself just turning the Color level down so that everything looks kind of faded and bland.
...
Oddly enough, however, the problem doesn't seem to be correctable via Hue. This is because in addition to people having pinkish faces, there are a lot of things that appear too GREEN that shouldn't. Blond hair, for instance, or gold or brass-colored doorknobs, etc., seem to have a slight greenish cast to them: it's quite noticeable, especially on SD. (The Simpsons seem kind of greenish yellow, too, instead of just yellow.)
...
-- Justin

I also just purchased a KD-36XS955 (great deal at CC). I am experiencing the same kind of problem with source material to Video 5 from my HTPC. Specifically with regards to colors that appear too green and off color tone, and can't be fixed with color or hue adjustments.

What is REALLY interesting is that as I was getting ready to dive into calibration, I first decided to focus on getting the PowerStrip parameters tweaked first, and I found that THIS made a big difference in the color purity itself. I had just setup the HTPC with a 640x480P using the default for my ATI video card. I use a Key Digital color space converter to transcode from VGA to component. The default settings gave me a mode with a 31.75kHz scan rate with 60.469Hz refresh. This produced a nice clear picture, but with a definitively green hue to the whites. While playing around with some settings to try and get the refresh rate to 60 Hz, I ended up with a scan rate of 31.545kHz. To compare the two I made shortcuts to switch back and forth. What I saw shocked me, as the 31.454kHz mode had MUCH nicer whites (little or no green tinge). I hadn't expected this. Can anybody explain it?

I also found that while trying to setup a 1080i mode, that the resulting picture on the set is always 16:9. I was confused at first, but I think I read somewhere that the set detects 1080i input and is probably automatically doing the anamorphic squeeze? Is this a correct observation, and is there a way to control this? I would really like a higher resolution mode in 4x3 format.

Jim Heck

Can anyone tell me how I can tell what resolution signal my TV is showing....480i,480P,720P....??? I hit display on the remote and that doesn't do it.

It should. Press display and in the upper right hand corner you'll see '1080i 16x9', '480i 4x3', etc.

I would like to get some type of HD set, and would like to make sure I have the facts right about this model. First let me tell you I will be sitting about 7 feet directly in front of this set and will be using a Comcast Dual DVR/HD Capable box(phase III, I think), basic Panny DVD player, and a 2 speaker stereo system. I watch a lot of sports(MLB & NBA League passes-Flyers hockey-Eagles football-Golf-WWE), and most of the games are still in SD 4:3. I currently have Philips 32" & Panny 27" SD Direct View sets. I will be keeping the 32" in the same room with this Sony.

From what I gather the digital channels on this set should look better than they do on my current SDTV, and the analog channels should look about the same-maybe better. Is this true? I can always watch the SD analog channels on the Philips 32" if they are that much better than on the Sony, but I want to make sure at least the digital and of course HD channels will be a big improvement with this set. Also, watching DVDs on this set should be no worse than on my current SDTVs? And, viewing On Demand programs should be the same PQ too?

The next question I have is dealing with the HD channels/programs. Will I get all the advantages in PQ with this set when viewing HD programs as I would a 16:9 HD set, except that the screen will always be in letterbox format? I already watch ER and Las Vegas now in letterbox form with my SDTV, so this is know big deal as long as I get the HD PQ, especially with sporting events that are in HD. Also, I have read that this set is like viewing a 33 inch widescreen 16:9 HDTV. Does this mean I will be getting the same exact picture as the 34 inch 16:9 widescreen HDTV set gets, less a half inch on each side? Or, will I still be getting the same size 4:3 letterbox picture I get on my 32" & 27" but with HD PQ? I am thinking/hoping that I gain a little of the picture I was missing on both sides with this set since it's screen size is larger. This would really help with hockey games, as the Flyers show most of their home games in HD, and I would like to gain some screen that I was missing.

Finally, should this type of HDTV have better PQ for SD & HD than most of the twenty-five hundred and under HD & ED RPLCD, LCD, and Plasma sets currently on the market? I would like to get at least 5 years of enjoyment out of this set with the best PQ for both SD & HD. Right now I am looking at a little more than fifteen hundred shipped from Abt, and that includes white glove delivery and a 4 year EW.

Thanks for any help and opinions you may offer. :)

It should. Press display and in the upper right hand corner you'll see '1080i 16x9', '480i 4x3', etc.

Tom it only shows the inputted resolution, not the displayed resolution



and of course HD channels will be a big improvement with this set. Also, watching DVDs on this set should be no worse than on my current SDTVs?

DVDs and HD will definitely look much better on a HDTV especially like the Super Fine Pitch Sony

From what I gather the digital channels on this set should look better than they do on my current SDTV, and the analog channels should look about the same-maybe better.

analogue TV will look good probably similiar to that on your SD CRTs
not better though, as SD CRTs are displaying a source the same as the TV's native scan rate

From what I gather the digital channels on this set should look better than they do on my current SDTV

again it will be similiar but not better than on your SDTVs

Will I get all the advantages in PQ with this set when viewing HD programs as I would a 16:9 HD set, except that the screen will always be in letterbox format?

yeah HDTV will be letterboxed

Does this mean I will be getting the same exact picture as the 34 inch 16:9 widescreen HDTV set gets, less a half inch on each side?

on a 36" 4:3 TV, there is a ~33" 16:9 diagonal

Finally, should this type of HDTV have better PQ for SD & HD than most of the twenty-five hundred and under HD & ED RPLCD, LCD, and Plasma sets currently on the market?

in the 36" and smaller TVs, the Sony Super Fine Pitch models definitely have the best image quality

but some larger display technologies do do well with SD content

I recently moved and now my 36XS855 has a very slight downward bowing of the upper left portion of a letterboxed program. Is there a user-adjustable way to fix this?

I am debating on upgrading my 32 inch JVC D-Series Tv in my bedroom. I mainly watch Directv Tivo non-HD but will be getting a HD Tivo through Directv for free. Is this the best tube tv for 36 inch that is readily available? Or is there another set I should consider. I don't think I want to go 34 inch widescreen due to the smaller 4:3 image than what I am using now and I currently don't watch a lot of widescreen programming in the bedroom. I am concerned that this may be a step down in the SD directv Tivo quality which is 95% of my current viewing.

I mainly watch Directv Tivo non-HD but will be getting a HD Tivo through Directv for free.

How did you do that?


bob

How did you do that?


bob

I live in one of the few neighborhoods that Verizon TV is now available. Since they are supposed to have a better HD directv is trying to compete and lock people into contracts in these neighborhoods. As a result I get one free SD-TIVO and one HD-TIVO, free install and upgraded Dish and free HD programming for the year.

Is it ok to get open box items from CC(planning on getting a 34xs955 open box)? What's the cheapest place to get this TV? Should I wait for a discount or something? I can't even see this model on BB's website, so maybe it's discontinued??

Will be driving to parents house to help them setup a 36XS955 and have a few questions. Now my parents are the type who would go "maximum brightness, maximum contrast. Brighter, Better." so I'm sure I can do a better job than that.

Planning to go

ReplayTV -> Component Cables --- would s-video be better?
JVC SVHS -> S-Video
Cable -> Comcast Standard, RF input
DVD Player -> Component Cables

Also, started reading over all the excellent posts in the Service Code articles (thanks KenTech!) but soon came to the realization that three days at the parents house over christmas, for a TV I'm not watching, well that is a lot of work.

I think all I will be able to do is pretty much go with the standard user adjustable settings. Well, maybe I could be talked into a "oh my god you just have to read the post on changing this one setting, it will make the world a better place" if there is like the one easy thing that everyone changes, everyone agrees to change it to value(s) X(Y,Z) and everyone thinks it makes things 50% better.

Yes I am technically inclined so I could figure it out if pushed that way, I just don't want to spend three days adjusting every little setting on a TV set. Sure I'll do one or two things if a mass chorus sings down from heaven that it is God's will.

As far as the "user adjustable" settings what do y'all prefer? Vivid, Pro, WarmMuffin, etc. etc.

Guess I'm just looking for comments like "the XXXX mode sucks. turn off the YFHSD feature, it isn't that good. Of all the color temp setting I like HFJFD best. I have my TV set to color 23, brightness 43, sharpness 21" and so on and so forth.

I do have an Avia disk I have brought with me.

W

Oh, the stand they are going to use

From Bush (http://www.bushfurniture.com/bushindustries/bushfurniture/productdetail/productdetail4.jsp?id=VS13588-03&id18=TV&id19=36#)

ReplayTV -> Component Cables --- would s-video be better?

use component at 480p

As far as the "user adjustable" settings what do y'all prefer? Vivid, Pro, WarmMuffin, etc. etc.

I say since it is not your TV, calibrate all color modes with AVIA or DVE
I would leave it on standard mode for cable or maybe pro
if you use standard mode adjust the VM to medium or low and change the color temp to neutral, if already not
and choose interlaced DRC
and for DVDs, use movie mode
have the player output 480p if possible, and have Cinemotion selected via DRC if using 480i output

Vivid mode pretty much sucks, but you might as well calibrate it since there is a chance they may change to it
and the VM is pretty bad as well at least at high and somewhat at medium
it increases jaggies alot although can add some sharpness
for HD feeds turn it off as well 480p, for 480i sources use low or off

some people with ISF certified/calibrated TVs really like monitor mode
I only use it for my HTPC(home theater PC) as my display has not been calibrated
and it will wash out colors

ow my parents are the type who would go "maximum brightness, maximum contrast. Brighter, Better."

Well I would just make it fool proof, have everything calibrated and setup per input
if the picture looks good, they will most likely not switch DRC or color modes

also you do not want to leave Vivid in its default color settings, for it overruns the TV
and simply flipping through the color modes, you will see Vivid straining the TV
(you will see the auto adjust contrast feature)

Thanks for the notes, I've seen people suggesting Pro mode, and stay away from Vivid.

W

Thanks for the notes, I've seen people suggesting Pro mode, and stay away from Vivid.

oh definitely but it does not mean your parents will not "fiddle" with the remote, and Vivid follows pro on the color mode cycle

so just best to calibrate it as well, rather than overrun the TV, if they leave it on that setting
(even by accident)

Im pulling my hair out trying to get a Motorola CableCard to work with this TV set and of course Comcast and Sony have been most unhelpful. Has anyone here managed to get a Motorola Cablecard to work in this Sony Set and as added bonus have they been on a comcast system?

Thanks in Advance

Jason

use component at 480p



I say since it is not your TV, calibrate all color modes with AVIA or DVE
I would leave it on standard mode for cable or maybe pro
if you use standard mode adjust the VM to medium or low and change the color temp to neutral, if already not
and choose interlaced DRC
and for DVDs, use movie mode
have the player output 480p if possible, and have Cinemotion selected via DRC if using 480i output

Vivid mode pretty much sucks, but you might as well calibrate it since there is a chance they may change to it
and the VM is pretty bad as well at least at high and somewhat at medium
it increases jaggies alot although can add some sharpness
for HD feeds turn it off as well 480p, for 480i sources use low or off

some people with ISF certified/calibrated TVs really like monitor mode
I only use it for my HTPC(home theater PC) as my display has not been calibrated
and it will wash out colors



Well I would just make it fool proof, have everything calibrated and setup per input
if the picture looks good, they will most likely not switch DRC or color modes

also you do not want to leave Vivid in its default color settings, for it overruns the TV
and simply flipping through the color modes, you will see Vivid straining the TV
(you will see the auto adjust contrast feature)

Good advice. This is exactly how I've setup my 40XBR800 and have been pretty happy w/it. My VM is set to low.

Price is down to $1199.00 at Amazon through J+R with free shipping....

Price is down to $1199.00 at Amazon through J+R with free shipping....

Thats such a killer deal dude..for what you get..SFP 33inch HDTV screen and a huge 36inch SD screen and a built in tuner.

I paid 1600.00 for mine and i dont regret it one bit.

Yup, I paid $1699.00 for mine at sonystyle with the stand thrown in. $1199.00 is a great deal stand or not.

If you don't have the Sony Stand, I've seem them on Ebay dirt cheap.

Price is down to $1199.00 at Amazon through J+R with free shipping....

I don't see that listed as a 'free shipping' eligible item. Am I overlooking something?

-mark

Should I be scared as to how old a 36xs955 is that is a refurb? I saw it tonight at $1474 at CC and $809!!!! (about $45 more than a 36HS420) at the Sony Outlet Store.

Edit: SonyCare 5 year in-home is $89.

This is to replace a older 32HSR10 that I really like, but it is having some issues, and I'm not sure I want to put repair $$$ into it.

No, I would not be scared by a refurb at the Sony Store. The "refurb" could have been simply a return that was never even opened or used, but in any case Sony checks them out thoroughly and cycles them back out as "refurb". I've been told by some people in the industry that a "refurb" was even better than a TV that wasn't because Sony Techs have been over the TV w/a fine tooth comb and have checked everything as working properly. I'm not sure this is absolutely the case, but you will still get the Sony Warranty, and you can still buy the Sony Extended Warranty if it makes you feel more comfortable. Personally speaking, at the price you stated I probably wouldn't even bother w/an EW.

hey guys i just got my 36xs955 today, but need some help hooking i up. i am just connecting a hd cable box right now but the way i have it there is no signal. i have the rf from outside going into the cable box and then the 3 component video and the 2 audio from the box into the back of the tv. but i am not getting a signal when i run the auto program. do i also need to put the rf coaxial cable into the tv? i tried that and i got a signal but it didn't look good at all. just wondering if i need to connect both. the manual for the hd box does not say to hook up the cable into the tv, but i think the sony manual has the cable going in. anyone that can help would be appreciated. thanks

Penske. you should get a "splitter" and put one cable directly into the ANT. This way, if you're using the SA8300HD STB, you'll be able to record 2 programs at the same time, and watch a analog SD on another.

thanks. ok i so i after fooling around with everything it seems that you do need to connect the component lines and the coax - and i will use the splitter like you advised... and i am using the sa8300 - i dont know how you knew that but i am...
also, if anyone can point me in the right direction on where in this forum i can find some info about setting all of this stuff up. for example i was thinking that i would use the hdmi connections but some places people say it doesn't look better than component... who knows. this stuff is really complicated to someone like me. all i want to do it hook up my cable box, dvd player, and eventually a home theatre speaker system. i will search the boards, but if anyone knows a place where its summarized please let me know.
so far the tv looks great - the high def channels are the best that i have seen compared to friends dlp or plasma tvs or anything else i have seen. but the SD stuff has a little to be desired, but i am guessing there is a whole bunch of tweaking that i will have to do.
i battled over if i should buy this tv or not. i read so many reviews that said it was great and so many that said it was stupid to get a 4:3 tv. right now i am thinking that it was the best choice for me for a few reasons: there are only 2 programs on right now (with my cable package) that are in hi-def. i know there will be more in prime-time there are movie channel options, but most of my viewing will be in 4:3 standard.
and the widescreen (hi-def) channels are 33" diagonal - and i couldn't find a 32" - 34" widescreen tv that looked as good as this one for anywhere near the price.
the only drawback is the size - its huge. i had it delivered and when i need to move it i will get som strong friends to help.
i think until all programming is in hi-def, a set like this was really worth it for me.
just my 2 cents in case anyone is debating what to buy.

A lucky guess on your STB, as the 8300HD is the most popular one w/cable companies in the US, and I've been using mine for about 2 years.

Another stroke of luck, is that there are dedicated threads on this Forum for your SA 8300HD. Go to "HDTV Recorders" here in AVS and you'll you'll see them. Be prepared for a long read, as these threads have been going on for awhile. Depending on your location/cable company, there are presently 2 types of operating systems being used for the 8300. The OS are: Passport & SARA. My local Brighthouse Cable Co. uses "Passport". You'll get to learn all about it on the threads I mentioned, as well as everything else you may or may not care to know on the 8300.

I know that 36"er is one heavy TV. I've got the Sony 40XBR, and it took 3 of us to move the 300lb. beast. Beautiful pic though, and after 3 years of extensive useage I am 100% satisfied. My next HT upgrade will be a 60+" 1080p flat panel.

Wow, I am really tempted by the refurb 955. $809 is a no-brainer. And a 5 year plan for that much is pretty great too (as long as its in-house).

The only things holding me back are:
- need bigger entertainment center for a 36 compared to my old 27"
- Sony Style outlet wont give out the price over the phone - guy acted insulted that I asked. Is this a standard policy or some nonsense?
- the nearest Outlet moved from Lancaster PA (one hour away) to Rehoboth beach DE (3 hours away). For an extra four hours of my life + tolls + gas, I would pay the tax in PA.

Anyone else deal with the Sony Outlets?

The 955 is a great TV, and the price seems like an even greater deal. A bit of advice on the Sony Stand....get one if you can. Ebay has some thatare cheap. Reason being is that the TV has a heavy thick front glass that make it prone to "front tipping". The Sony Stand is made especially for this TV and has clips built in to keep it from tipping. Besides, the stand matches the TV perfectly.

Hmmm, how much do the Sony Stands run?

What kind of storage do they have? I have lots of peripherals (receiver, cable box, VCR, PS2, Xbox, DVD player) and a 3 yr old and a 8 month old. If I have no way of securing these things behind door, its going to be trouble - the 3 yr old is super inquisitive and the 8 month old is looking to be worse.

Retail, my Sony Stand listed $500, but CC threw it in on a special promo. I've seen them dirt cheap on Ebay, so there's where I suggest you go. On the 2 shelves of my Stand, I have a DVD Player, bottom shelf has the VCR w/my STB (SA 8300HD).

One note of caution...these very large Tubes (36" & 40") are extremely susceptable to "magnetic fields", and you should limit these sources around your Tube, and speakers especially should be kept at a disitance. The magnetic fields will screw up the geometry on the Tube and/or cause the "greenies" or "green blob" on your screen.

Maybe an Entertainment Cabinet will best suit your needs, but just be sure you clamp down the rear of the TV securely. Also, large Tubes require proper ventilation.

Really good info, guys. This newbie appreciates it.

I've been looking at HDTVs, and what I'm trying to figure out is if I want a 4:3 HDTV like the KD36XS955 or a 16:9 HDTV like the KD34XS955.

The 34" 16:9 HDTV seems the same as the 36" 4:3 HDTV except that it's a smaller screen for more money.

16:9 images would be roughly the same size and quality on the 34" 16:9 HDTV and the similar-width 36" 4:3 HDTV, but 4:3 images would smaller on the 34".

I see disadvantages for the 34" 16:9 HDTV (higher cost, smaller image for 4:3 sources) as compared to the 36" 4:3 HDTV but no advantages.

Based largely on this thread, I'm leaning toward the 36" 4:3 KD36XS955.

We still watch a lot of 4x3 material, which is why I went with the 36XS955. The 4x3 picture on the 34 is 28". That would have been way too small.

How large is the 16x9 picture on the 36"?

How large is the 16x9 picture on the 36"?

Approx. 33.0"

Most of my TV viewing is via DISH satellite. No HD, no gaming. Some DVD and VHS watching. I want/need a new TV that meets my viewing needs and is reliable, dependable, and last a long time withput major problems. Our family TV is on 15 hrs. a day 5 or 6 days a week. Being a novice to TV buying I really don't understand why you can buy the 36 inch XS955 for a couple hundred $ less than the 34 inch XS955. Maybe some of guys in the know can explain that to me. Iwas considering a XBR960 but they may be "overkill" for my TV needs. Then I read about the $1,199 Sony XBR970 that is supposed to debut in Mid-March. Maybe that fits my TV watching traits better. But since I don't have/use HD that might be overkill as well. Yeah, I'm floundering and looking for educated guidance before I screw-up and buy the wrong TV. Can somepne pls. provide some sage advice? Especially the difference between the 34 & 36 in. XS955's. Thanx.

From your exclusive use of SD TV, I strongly recommend the 36" HDTV. The reason it is less money is that the hot ticket today is 16:9 widescreen, and the 4:3 TV's are going away quickly. In order to watch a 4:3 SD broadcast on a 16:9 TV, you will have black bars on the sides and approx. 27" picture, UNLESS you want to use a stretch/zoom mode to fill the screen. With VCR, it will be similar to what you experience on 4:3 SD broadcast w/black sidebars & all.

Not so for 4:3 HDTV's, where you will get the full screen 36" when viewing a 4:3 SD broadcast, which is the vast majority of all your viewing. When viewing HDTV or widescreen DVD's (unless it's the "fullscreen" DVD version) you will have black bars on the top & bottom w/a 34" 16:9 screen. On VCR, it will be similar to viewing 4:3 SD. When you finally come to your senses and gradually start watching HD broadcasting, you'll have the 34" 16:9 screen previously noted.

I had been waiting to buy an HDTV for several years. The quality was just never there for me. I always liked the tubes but the price was way too high. My 32" Sony was good enough until it died a month ago.

It was between the

Sony 42A10 (approx. $1,600 OTD w/ 5 year warranty)

Sony 36XS955 ($950 OTD w/ 5 yr warranty)

Now most content is SD and my family watches quite a few VHS tapes. For an LCD RP the 42A10 is the best that I could find for SD & HD, especially for the price. But was it worth the extra $650? I ultimately decided no.

Other than the 240 lb., three person job this TV has gone beyond my expectations. SD is great, HD is the best out there with true blacks, great colors and a bright screen. I even zoom my HD channels (some clipping occurs) and the picture is great.

This TV is of the highest quality. The tuner picked up dozens of HD channels with a direct hookup from my cable from the wall. Yes, no Cable Box, no Cable Card, just a gold plated cable from the wall to the TV. The quality is great. The 480i On Demand movies look DVD like!

I even hooked up an OTA w/rabbit ears to see what I could pick up. Mind you I am 50-60 miles from Chicago and I was able to get all major channels in SD and HD. Quality was good with the exception of breakups if I got too close to the antenna.

The funny thing was that I was ready to bring the TV back after the first 2-3 hrs that I had it. I was getting a purple hue in the corner of the screen that wouldn't go away. I finally realized that my speaker was too close and it went away.

Overall this is a great TV for a great price. Go to the Sony Outlet and get the 5 year warranty. You will not be sorry. If 36" isn't big enough for you then you have many choices depending on the money.

These are my best buy picks and I spent months evaluating all of them.

720p - Sony 42A10 ($1,600) or 50A10 ($1,800) / Panasonic Plasma 42" ($2,600)
1080p (de-interlacing) - Toshiba 56HM195 ($2,300) or 62HM195 ($2,800)
1080p - TBD

If I buy the TV from a different store, (or via employee purchase plan), can I still buy the warranty from Sony?

Yes, no problem. I bought my Sony Vaio Laptop from Ubid, and then later called Sony and purchased the EW.

Has anyone found a way to get closed captioning (CC) without drilling down through the menus? I'd be willing to buy a third-party remote (i.e., Harmony) to avoid the hassle of turning it on and off. CC is useful when my toddler pitches a fit because the news is not Elmo, but it gets in the way during, say, the Olympics.

Also, the manual doesn't explain the choices for the CC setting. Off and On are rather self-explanatory, but what's Program?

Sony 36XS955 ($950 OTD w/ 5 yr warranty)




Congratulations.

Where did you manage this price (I assume TV is new in the box) - sounds ridiculously low?

I just got for $780 plus tax shipped. :)

Sony is having an outlet sale for it's employees. They're blowing out all their refurbished stock. The 40" is only $600. :)

Sony Outlet. The TV is $809.99 + $80 EW (5 year). It is Factory New (refurbished) but I thought that as long as I get the warranty I am covered. So far so good.

I got one for ya. Had my 36XS955 for 5 weeks, and it started doing this funky little number:
When it powers up cold, the picture on the RF Ant inputs are full of interference. Horrible
Wavy lines and such in the picture on the RF Ant. The Video input is still fine. If I let it warm
up for about 3-5 minutes, then toggle the Ant button on the remote to switch to the other
Ant then back to the original Ant, everything is fine on both Ant inputs, until I power it down
and let it cool off again. I have a 3-yr service warranty, so I'm in no big hurry to have it
down while pieces of it are hauled off to the service dept. I'll just live with this problem until
it completely craps out or the interference wont go away. Anybody else heard of this
problem? Another question: it was mentioned that you can see the displayed resolution
by simply pressing the display button on the remote??? Mine just shows me the Channel
# in the upper-right, the display mode (full/zoom) in the lower left, and the Time of Day
in the lower right. What up?

Another question: it was mentioned that you can see the displayed resolution by simply pressing the display button on the remote??? Mine just shows me the Channel # in the upper-right, the display mode (full/zoom) in the lower left, and the Time of Day in the lower right. What up?
Try the "Guide" button instead.

God I hope they still have some in a month or so. Will be getting tax refund (I think) to buy this beast.

Now I just have to find a decent entertainemnt center to put it and all my AV stuff in. Doors are necessity because of toddlers.

I just got for $780 plus tax shipped. :)

Sony is having an outlet sale for it's employees. They're blowing out all their refurbished stock. The 40" is only $600. :)


OK, I see it on their Web site.

The 34XS955 is only $699.95 refurb - with 5 year warrantee sounds pretty good.

I had my Dish VIP622 installed yesterday with my week old KD-36XS955 and I'm having several issues that any help with would be greatly appreciated.

1 - The Standard Def picture looks weird and washed out. I have the TV hooked up via component cables until my HDMI cable is delivered (Dish was too cheap to include one with the receiver) and I hope that the improved input may address some of my concerns.

The SD picture looks like a feed from somebody’s camcorder. HDTV is spectacular and some SD signals are better than others and I know I'm picky but yikes!

The picture is too dark unless it is set to 'vivid'. I have it set to 'neutral' and the picture & brightness settings are maxed out! Color is at 20, sharpness is at 50 and I'm on 'monitor' mode instead of ‘default’.

The picture is set to 1080 and the DRC controls are grayed out.

2 – This next issue is a minor inconvenience but it would seem to be an easy fix. My screen size setting (vertical expand) will not stay after the TV is powered down. It's not a real hassle to reset it after turning the unit back on but you would think that it would remember the previous settings.

Your time, consideration and response is appreciated.

Beachbum

I really don t know that much about this stuff so you can't take what I say as fact:

I have a fairly new 36xs955 and have some of the same problems you have. the SD channels were bad and the HD looked great. i got the SD to look better by increasing the signal strength to my STB. I had some old wiring and many splits, so that helped when i fixed that up.

AS far as the darkness of the picture modes, i have that same issue. I can point you to this a thread titled "THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries" maybe you can search for that ( i cant post a url yet)
Its about going in and changing the settings in the service mode for the tv. Apparently, when Sony sets this stuff from the factory they dont take much care in doing it. Changing those settings discussed in that thread should help. you have to be warned that its not a quick fix - there's a lot of reading in that thread and you have to be disaplined about what you do.
I do not know if the dark picture would be covered under a warranty - i have been debating whether to call about it or fix it myself.

hope this helps - like i said i am in no way an expert like the others on this board. i just noticed that no one has responded to you so far, and thought i would just let you what i know.

good luck, and if you find out anything please let me know.

Got one at the Outlet Store today and am a little surprised with the direct QAM tuning.

Having an MDP-130 I know I get the local DTV broadcast channels in unencrypted QAM (about 5 HD channels- and a number of weather channels) I also get around 50 clear ADS channels and quite a few audio only. These are all 256QAM

When I do a cable digital scan I get a couple hundred digitals but in the "available" field or whatever it is called I only get the 50 or so ADS and quite a few audio channels but I don't get the other broadcast channels (including all my freely available HD channels which I know aren't encrypted.

Does SONY somehow restrict the HD so you have to use a cable card to get them versus tuning directly off the cable? In other words why doesn't the tuner find the 1080i and 720p unencrypted HD QAM channels?


Second question - any way to disconnect the circuitry on the onboard speakers to make them availble to be powered by my receiver as the center channel? (Why wouldn't manufacturer's make this a standard feature?

When I do the cable digital scan, I get 6 out of the 7 local HD channels in HD, Biography
Channel, 3-4 infomercial chans, a couple of spanish channels, and a pot-load of digital
music channels. Not bad for only paying for basic analog cable. Mine also said it found 340
digital channels but only 64 were "shown". I just assumed the rest were what you would
get if you paid for digital cable.

When I do the cable digital scan, I get 6 out of the 7 local HD channels in HD, Biography
Channel, 3-4 infomercial chans, a couple of spanish channels, and a pot-load of digital
music channels. Not bad for only paying for basic analog cable. Mine also said it found 340
digital channels but only 64 were "shown". I just assumed the rest were what you would
get if you paid for digital cable.


Well its not a subscription issue - I am subscribed to the full package and I have a cable box with DVR in another room. Plus I know these channels are in the clear and not encrypted as I can get them with my MyHD card tuning the QAM HD

Seems kind of random

Is there a center speaker shelf that goes on top of this tv?

I had one made. Check out post #356:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=434681&page=12&pp=30

Sanus makea makes a universal type of stand. I believe there are other manufactures, but I don't know who.

Need to find alternate stand. Cant find the Sony stand anywhere around here (Philadelphia suburbs - King of Prussia area).

I know that Best Buy and Circuit City sell all kinds of stnads, but I dont know which ones work well with this TV. My chief worry is the thing tipping over. Do the stands come with the clips or whatever to hook onto the TV? Has anyone used a different stand to good effect?

I have resigned myself to a stand for the TV and a audio cabinet for all the components (DVR/cable box, DVD player, A/V Receiver, PS2, Xbox, etc).

And advice would be greatly apreciated. Thanks!

Interesting speaker stand. Making my own is a good possibility. Too bad my projects usually look like crap. :)

My speaker is the JBL EC-35 and it's about 3/5 the width of the TV.

I assume you're worried about it tipping since you have children?

I assume you're worried about it tipping since you have children?

Exactly. One three year old and one 6 month old. Would also love to have a stand that has doors, but beggars cant be choosers.

Plenty of stands out there, but I dotn want to get a crappy one.

Hmmmm. Seems TechCraft makes two stands -

FS3612 http://techcraft.net/htm/products/comp/fs3612.htm

and

HXS3436 http://techcraft.net/htm/products/comp/hxs3436.htm

Both have a screw down piece in the back for attaching to a Sony TV. And allegedly the HXS3436 is made to go with the 36XS955.

They have doors too. I will have to look into this.

Is there a center speaker shelf that goes on top of this tv?
This (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067AIEU/sr=8-1/qid=1141151615/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-3462037-6852813?%5Fencoding=UTF8) is the one I got. Works great.

thats a pretty cool one. i'll have to make sure my speaker is < 30 lbs.

OK, i feel like a spaz....

is the KD-36XS955 widescreen??? Some sites say it is and some say its 4:3....which is it?

4:3

But it's almost as big as the 34" widescreen in 16:9 mode. :)

thats a pretty cool one. i'll have to make sure my speaker is < 30 lbs.

Read down a bit on that link and you will see a User's Review that had a 30lb center speaker come crashing down unexpectedly. These stands are for lightweight gear. Another very important note & warning, these very large tubes are extremely susceptable to magnetic fields from speakers, and will cause you a ton of trouble. It is best to keep ALL speakers well away from these TV's.

Remember, his speaker was back-heavy and the TV was projection (with a steeply-sloping back), putting extra shear loading on the back feet. The 36XS955 has a shallower back, so I'm using the short legs, not the long ones. Also, my center is relatively shallow, and most of the weight rests on the front of the mount, which rests directly on the top of the TV (no legs, just flat metal).

Magnetic-field-wise, adding/removing the speaker with the TV showing a test pattern causes no visible color shift. The same speaker did show discoloration at the top of my old Sanyo, but the Sonys seem to have much better shielding.

That said, if you have a heavy, deep center speaker, I'd come up with something better. The folks at Ascend Acoustics came up with the idea of using one of those TV mounts (for small tube TVs, not flat-panels) to hold their larger center speaker.

What do u mean? The 36" 16x9 representation is about the same as a 34" 16:9

What do u mean? The 36" 16x9 representation is about the same as a 34" 16:9
The 36" 4:3 tv displays widescreen material in a window (letterboxed) that's about the same size as the whole sidescreen window on the 34" 16:9 set. For those that prefer a 4:3 tv since the majority of their viewing is SD, the 36" set gives you the best of both worlds - a big 4:3 picture and as big a widescreen window as is on the 34" 16:9 set.

This is why the 36" sets continue to be very popular.

awesome description, thanks!