Originally posted by infamous_pb
Ever since getting the new slim PS2, I have NOT noticed any wavy lines or black lines that looked like distortion. I did with the old PS2 version.

My old launch PS2 died a few months ago. Picture quality is exactly the same with my new slim PS2 and my old one.

Originally posted by puertorico

BY THE WAY IF SOMEONE KNOWS THE PART# FOR THE 30744 REMOTE CONTROL I WILL APRECIATE THAT.


I don't know the part number, but if you go to
Sanyo Remote (http://www.sanyo.com/entertainment/store/products.cfm?CategoryID=1|TV%20Remote%20Controls) and click on the $25 model specific remote (& those with PIP), enter your model and serial number, you should get the exact remote.

There is a number on the inside of the battery cover, but I doubt that would do you much good. At the bottom of the remote, it says FXYA but I don't think that will get you anywhere either.

puertorico,

The Part# for the Remote as listed in the Service Manual is 645 065 6897.

The thing I don't understand, is that the whole "wavy" line defect only seems to show up at certain resolutions and/or sources. For example, the DVD output from either the PS2 or Xbox will provide a wavy picture that makes movies unwatchable. Yet, if you use a real standalone DVD player, as is fine. I just don't get it. 480i is 480i, and 480p is 480p. So why does this set act up on certain 480p sources, and not others? With the WEGA, the 1080i scrolling bar glitch would show up on basically all 1080i sources, regardless of the input you used. And while it was very annoying, at least it was consistent. I'm really praying that someone finds a service menu fix to this problem, or at least the cause of the problem It destroys an otherwise fine picture.

HELP!

I just got a DVI-HDMI cable to hook up my HTPC
I have a NVidia 5200 card I have output on the HDMI, but I can't get it to set the TV resolution at 1080 it only lets me get 720

If I set it for 1080 the screen goes haywire (flickering) and for some reason doesn't reset it self after 15 seconds.
(I should mention that half the video modes do not work.. )

I am going to have a siezure or something looking at the ridiculas flickering.
I actually felt a headache coming on.

So anyway, I am not sure what resolution to set the display properties at and if I should set it to the TV supporting 1080
I do not have an HDTV feed and I REALLY want to see what the TV can do.
I tried an HDTV recording and it looked really good but that was with the HTPC set as 720.

Can someone help me with this?
Thanks

Computer outputs at 1080p, TV doesn't support 1080p, so you're stuck with 720p... unless you got an ATI card with component out support (maybe NVIDIA supports this, but I don't know)

ATI drivers let you force 1080i. Though that may or may not help. This TV isn't very good for an HTPC.

Need Some Help:

The past few days, ive been sitting on my computer, in my bedroom, and hearing this high pitch sound, like someone hit a 'tuning fork' or whatever they are called. But i could never figure out where it was coming from. I suspected my Sanyo 30" widescreen, but i said Nah. Well now, like every 15 min, i hear the sound, i tried muting the tv, and its still there. But when i turn the t.v. off, the sound goes away. So something is wrong with the t.v., i dont know where its coming from since its not the speakers, but i know when i turn the t.v. off, the sound goes. When i turn it back on, the sound comes back.

My question for those who took their reciepts back to walmart to get the price differerence when this t.v was marked down is: Does that give us an extra 90 days to bring the t.v. back for a refund even though it was just a paper exchange and has the same t.v. information as our original purchase? If it does extend it for an extra 90 days, im thinking of just taking it back and spending a little more on maybe a sony. This, on top of the annoying tilt issue which gives me a greenish bluish line on the top right hand side of my t.v. on dark scenes has just about got me tired of this t.v.

Its a great deal for the price. But i planned on having this for like 4 years or so. And its starting to get annoying. Plus the pretty much useless component jacks which gives a slight flickering effect.

I know what you're saying about the high-pitched noise, but I have extremely sensitive hearing so I hear that on ALL TV's and Monitors. So, I have grown accustomed to it and don't even notice it if there is sound being played in my room.

Originally posted by kevbeck122
Computer outputs at 1080p, TV doesn't support 1080p, so you're stuck with 720p... unless you got an ATI card with component out support (maybe NVIDIA supports this, but I don't know)

Maybe I am just not geting it.

Sorry for all the questions below, I do not know enough about this stuff.
Here are a couple if someone can answer:

1. I thought this TV was 1080 HiDef? (referring to quote above)

2. Is it the TV's fault or the computer video card? (referring to quote above)

3. If I can't get this 5200 to work, what is the recommended card for an HTPC > Sanyo for best resolution?

4. If I get an ATI card I can get it to display 1080?

5. what is the diference between 1080i and 1080p?

6. What resolution should I run the computer at for best picture on this TV?
It seems like only half work (if that)

7. If I get an ATI card can I get it to display 1080?

thanks

1. Yes, it is hi def... can accept 1080i and 720p inputs
2. Video card.. NVIDIA control panel says you can do 1080 HDTV, but it doesn't work on this set.
3. 720p will give you a better image/video, but ATI cards will allow 1080i, so pick whichever one you want.
4. I'm pretty sure you can.. through component cables.
5. Interlaced and Progressive scan... the new HD format is 1080p, which will be used by HD DVDs and TV in the future. Interlaced produces half of the lines of resolution, followed by the next half, whereas progressive produces all of the lines at once.
6. 1280x720, but use overscan compensation if you want the whole picture to display.
7. Same as 4 :D

kevbeck122 is right on all accounts, except I don't think anyone has been able to run any HTPC to this tv at 1080i with an acceptable amount of flicker (ATI component dongle included). Speak up if you have...

Originally posted by Yus
...This TV isn't very good for an HTPC.

TOTALLY disagree with you on that. I have my self-built HTPC hooked up to my 32" Sanyo HDTV and LOVE it! Yeah, there are some slightly annoying issues like a bit of tilt & more overscan than I'd like, but overall I love it & would recommend it to anyone looking to break into the HDTV world.

BTW, I'm using an FX5200 via DVI/HDMI cable using the latest official Nvidia drivers. I can use 800x600 & 1280x720 resolutions right out of the box, but the Nvidia overscan correction seems to be created for folks with 16:9 displays as they do no good on my 4:3 display. So, I either end up with about 10-15% overscan with 800x600 or a squished display at 1280x720. The 800x600 display looks nice & I just compensate for the overscan in Meedio. If I use 1280x720 & set the "Pix Shape" on the TV to Widescreen then I get a non-squished display, but then I have the big-ass black widescreen bars on the top & bottom of the screen, like I'm watching a widescreen DVD - not good for me unless I'm watching a widescreen video on my HTPC.

Thanks,
jawgee

Originally posted by jawgee
TOTALLY disagree with you on that. I have my self-built HTPC hooked up to my 32" Sanyo HDTV and LOVE it! Yeah, there are some slightly annoying issues like a bit of tilt & more overscan than I'd like, but overall I love it & would recommend it to anyone looking to break into the HDTV world.
...<snipped>...
Thanks,
jawgee

What kind of tasks do you do with your setup? Do you do text based tasks? (email internet, word processing) or just games and media? I currently am test driving a radeon 9550 with dvi-->hdmi. I am having issues getting Catalyst Control Center to come up correctly (and yes I have installed .net & have all the current updates for it), and I am trying to decide if I even need a video card in to my computer asside from the myHD that I am using.

I am able to use 720p OK, but there is a lot of overscan, that I would love to get rid of with the ATI wizard. So, if anyone has any hints on CCC that would be appreciated as well.

Originally posted by kevbeck122
1. Yes, it is hi def... can accept 1080i and 720p inputs
2. Video card.. NVIDIA control panel says you can do 1080 HDTV, but it doesn't work on this set.
3. 720p will give you a better image/video, but ATI cards will allow 1080i, so pick whichever one you want.
4. I'm pretty sure you can.. through component cables.
5. Interlaced and Progressive scan... the new HD format is 1080p, which will be used by HD DVDs and TV in the future. Interlaced produces half of the lines of resolution, followed by the next half, whereas progressive produces all of the lines at once.
6. 1280x720, but use overscan compensation if you want the whole picture to display.
7. Same as 4 :D

Thank you for answering my questions I appreciate it.

Opps on the dual question.. didn't see that.
:D

Originally posted by jawgee
The 800x600 display looks nice & I just compensate for the overscan in Meedio. If I use 1280x720 & set the "Pix Shape" on the TV to Widescreen then I get a non-squished display, but then I have the big-ass black widescreen bars on the top & bottom of the screen, like I'm watching a widescreen DVD - not good for me unless I'm watching a widescreen video on my HTPC.

Thanks,
jawgee

Doesn't that mean you loose the true resolution?
at 800x600 is that still HDTV picture quality?
I still don't get the resolution thing.
1280x720 is the 1080 display right? Wouldn't the 800x600 be lesser resolution displayed on screen?

I am desperate for this because I spent this money on an HDTV and I can't get OTA HDTV signals and DirectTV will not let me get HDTV Locals, so I want to see at least something

NOTE: DirectTV Standard feeds look like crapola on this TV, my 10 year old set that died looked WAYYYYY better, now all I see is pixelization everywhere. My Wife is PISSED!

anyway,
I tried the newest drivers from NVidia and my screen went NUTZo
Now I can't set it back, I am going to have to uninstall the video card or something using svideo and then go back to HDMI input to do some test.
Pain in the butt because the TV is so heavy and the HTPC is hard to get to.


My last question:
Can someone recommend a fairly cheap ATI card that actually has been tested to work outputting 1080 on this TV?

Originally posted by gormly2
Doesn't that mean you loose the true resolution?
at 800x600 is that still HDTV picture quality?
I still don't get the resolution thing. 1280x720 is the 1080 display right?

No, 1280 x 720 is 720p. The second number basically tells you your resolution. As best as I've been able to determine from reading just about every thread posted anywhere about this set, 1080 is not yet a viable option via HTPC.

I am desperate for this because I spent this money on an HDTV and I can't get OTA HDTV signals and DirectTV will not let me get HDTV Locals, so I want to see at least something]

NOTE: DirectTV Standard feeds look like crapola on this TV, my 10 year old set that died looked WAYYYYY better, now all I see is pixelization everywhere. My Wife is PISSED!

Not sure if you researched this set much, but with DirectTV, you'll basically need to upgrade to a HD tuner and service to take advantage of the Sanyo. To varying degrees, all standard feeds look bad on a digital TV. That being said, you might see some improvements if you haven't already turned down the contrast and brightness.


anyway,
I tried the newest drivers from NVidia and my screen went NUTZo
Now I can't set it back, I am going to have to uninstall the video card or something using svideo and then go back to HDMI input to do some test.
Pain in the butt because the TV is so heavy and the HTPC is hard to get to.


Do you have a PC monitor you can use to re-stabilize your HTPC's display? If so, set it to 1280 x 720 at 60hz and then re-connect to the Sanyo.


Can someone recommend a fairly cheap ATI card that actually has been tested to work outputting 1080 on this TV?

See above re: 1080. As I understand it, using the latest 5.4 drivers and the CCC panel, any ATI should be able to get 720p working via DVI>HDMI with this set.

Originally posted by gormly2
Doesn't that mean you loose the true resolution?
at 800x600 is that still HDTV picture quality?
I still don't get the resolution thing.
1280x720 is the 1080 display right? Wouldn't the 800x600 be lesser resolution displayed on screen?...

...anyway,
I tried the newest drivers from NVidia and my screen went NUTZo
Now I can't set it back, I am going to have to uninstall the video card or something using svideo and then go back to HDMI input to do some test.
Pain in the butt because the TV is so heavy and the HTPC is hard to get to.
...

Not sure how the 800x600 PC resolution translates into the TV resolution. I know when I click on the Sanyo remote INFO button, it tells me that I'm running at a 720p resolution.

Do you have your HTPC networked (wired or wirelessly)? If so, can you Remote Desktop or VNC into it? If you can, then you can remote into the HTPC & change the resolution as it should be viewable on your remote PC display. UltraVNC is one of my most used & beloved pieces of freeware. I install it on all of my computers.

Thanks,
jawgee

Ok just got home and set up my Sanyo HT32744. I was only half looking at cheap TV's at Wal-Mart for the bedroom in our new house, when I noticed an HT30744 and a HT32744 side by side.

The HT30 was $368 and the HT32 was $420. I started looking closer...

A guy walks up with a flat bed cart and says I just bought that one and pointed at the HT30. The he said I just looked them up, the get OK reviews but with a built in tuner you can't beat the price. I asked the Wal-Mart clerk to ring up the HT32 for me...

Just watched the local news and Tonight Show in High Def for the first time and for a few $$ more than some OTA HD Tuners!!! What a find!!

Your milage may very though because I called another Wal-Mart when I got home and they had one HT32 left at $578.

watt?? they selling HT32 for 420? :eek: Are you serious. Coz, I saw it today itself, it is still selling for 697. What walmart did you go to? are they gonna be reducing the prices on the HT32744 too then? :cool:

It was an open box, one shot deal. They had 4 HDTV's for under $500 at my local Wal-Mart. The 2 Sanyo's and 2 Phillips, but the Philips didn't have a tuner built in. I called several other Wal-Mart stores in the area. All of them had the TV on sale ($600-something) but none of the other stores had an open-box deal like the one I got. (or I would have bought my parents a new TV).

If you happen to be in Wal-Mart you might want to check...

I checked 5 different Walmarts in my area. All of them do not have the HT30477 in stock, and two of them had the HT32477, but they were selling it for $600+...

:mad: :confused:

Hi!
I have the Sanyo 30" with a Samsung Directv receiver.
I'm using the HDMI connections.
Can anyone tell me how to connect a VCR?
I have tried this-unsuccessfully. I was able to play, but not record.
Thanks!

Originally posted by augie0041
I checked 5 different Walmarts in my area. All of them do not have the HT30477 in stock, and two of them had the HT32477, but they were selling it for $600+...

:mad: :confused:

30477 is a deleted model now, though their website lists it on sale (but says out of stock). go ahead and buy the 32477. it was 697, it's been reduced to 647 now. i got one yesterday and it's wondeful :)

I keep on calling them, one lady was really helpful in one store.
But she explained to me that the demo tv has been on from 7am-9pm (something like that) everyday, and it only has a 5-day guarantee on it. I would love to purchase the 2-year service plan, is that allowed? she said no, not on a demo.
I don't know how much I trust only a 5-day guarantee!

Floor model TV's are rarely a good deal :)

augie0041 - Check with the service desk at Wal-Mart. Before I bought the TV I asked and was told I had a 1 year warranty on the TV from Wal-Mart, and I could buy another year for $28.98.

Shink - we'll have to wait and see.

After checking with some other Wal-Mart stores in the area I found the boxed units are on sale for $647. I'm guessing their floor models won't go on sale until the stock is cleared.

I'm really happy with the TV. I get 4 HD channels (6 with sub-channels) and the PQ is excellent. My DVD player via component input looks even better than my 27" Sony.
Only one gripe, no TV/Video button to switch between the tuners and the input selection. You have to scroll through the channels to get to the inputs, or you have to pass 5 empty inputs when scrolling through the channels.

Originally posted by blizzard64
Hi!
I have the Sanyo 30" with a Samsung Directv receiver.
I'm using the HDMI connections.
Can anyone tell me how to connect a VCR?
I have tried this-unsuccessfully. I was able to play, but not record.
Thanks!

I am assuming that you want to record programs from satellite on your VCR. If so, you need to connect the VCR inputs to the corresponding outputs of the Samsung DirecTV receiver--specifically, the composite video (yellow) and the audio left and right (red and white), unless your VCR is S-VHS, in which case you should use and S-video connection instead of the yellow composite video connection.

The outputs of the VCR would connect to corresponding inputs on the TV (sounds like you have this covered if VCR plays tapes okay to the TV).

So is Wal-mart gonna get the newer version of this TV?

Is Sanyo gonna offer one?

Yes, the newer version is smaller and doesn't have HDMI. Sucks.

My Walmart has a 32" floor model i may be able to buy very soon, she said it had the same warranty as a boxed set, what do you think?

Originally posted by Blain
My Walmart has a 32" floor model i may be able to buy very soon, she said it had the same warranty as a boxed set, what do you think?

Walmart is the last place you would want to buy a floor model from. Just imagine the number of hours the TV might be on before you bought it! Not to mention they are open 24X7 :D For a few hundred dollars more, you will get a brand new TV. Go for the new one bud :cool:

Originally posted by Blain
So is Wal-mart gonna get the newer version of this TV?

Is Sanyo gonna offer one?

As mentioned, the new versions are smaller, no HDMI, but quite a bit cheaper. I went to the local WalMart yesterday and they had the 30" on display but I don't remember the price. The other three (displayed together, but separate from the 30") are easy to remember:
27" (4:3) $447, 28" (16:9) $547, and the older 32" (4:3) $647

The 28" widescreen is not quite a bit cheaper. I paid $547 for my 30" widescreen, but at that point it was a "rollback" probably just to clear out the stock.

Originally posted by praveensg
Walmart is the last place you would want to buy a floor model from. Just imagine the number of hours the TV might be on before you bought it! Not to mention they are open 24X7 :D For a few hundred dollars more, you will get a brand new TV. Go for the new one bud :cool:

Let's take a look at this. If Wal-Mart is open 24 hours, let's say they have the TV on 16 - 20 hours per day. According to this thread, this model started showing up in Sept. '04. I would guess the average would be around 4000-5000 hours at the most.

That sounds like a lot. Now take into account the life of the average tube TV. I have a Toshiba set that is 8 years old. I would guess the thing is on 8 hours a day (very Conservative, my wife is a stay at home mom). That would be around 23,000 hours.

Other points of note:
+ It is best to leave a CRT on rather than turning it on and off frequently.
- You don't know how many times the thing was moved during it's stay at Wal-Mart.

The TV's life may have been shortened by as much as 1/5th of the total. I paid a little over 1/2 the suggested retail, I have a 30 day return window, and I have this thread to find and check for all the common problems. I figured it was worth my time to pick up the TV.

Blain - I would ask how long the TV has been on display. Ask a manager to take more money off the price. Read through this thread, it looks like Geometry is the primary problem with these TV's. Make sure they will honor the return policy for the open box. Take it home and see if it works for you.

I'm very happy I purchased this TV. The picture quality is great, I've adjused the set with the AVIA disk and everything looks wonderful.

this model started showing up in Sept. '04.

Actually it was May of '04. The original thread got locked, and this thread is carrying on the torch.

Originally posted by am_pcguy
augie0041 - Only one gripe, no TV/Video button to switch between the tuners and the input selection. You have to scroll through the channels to get to the inputs,

There is an "input" button on the remote.....

Originally posted by am_pcguy

Only one gripe, no TV/Video button to switch between the tuners and the input selection. You have to scroll through the channels to get to the inputs

I don't mean to be a jerk or anything, but was this a serious post?

am_pcguy, did you really go through all the channels to get to the other inputs? I would imagine it was just excitement on getting an HDTV that led you to not RTM or check the remote?

Again, I am not trying to be a jerk or smarta@@, it just seems like maybe am_guy was being funny or something?

There is an "input" button on the remote.....
Well, he did also say " or you have to pass 5 empty inputs when scrolling through the channels" so I would assume he knows about the input button. However, I can't believe he'd think this is a serious issue... How else would you do it? Have a separate button for each different input?
I guess you could have a TV/Video button to switch between the last input you used and the current channel you're on. Is this waht you were thinking am_pcguy?

Originally posted by gormly2
I don't mean to be a jerk or anything, but was this a serious post?

am_pcguy, did you really go through all the channels to get to the other inputs? I would imagine it was just excitement on getting an HDTV that led you to not RTM or check the remote?

Again, I am not trying to be a jerk or smarta@@, it just seems like maybe am_guy was being funny or something?

Hey, it's possible that he bought a demo model and didn't get the remote. Trying to do anything with this tv w/o a remote is impossible!
Yesterday, I bought the demo from a store near me after calling EVERY store on Long Island. Suddenly it was available "on the floor - 'as is' clearance w/o box or manual or remote." But with a price of $275 I jumped at it! They said I had 15 days to return it. Unit works fine so far, with about 1 hour of use. This F'n thing is heavy!! Only problem is without the remote, I cannot tell the tv to scan for digital channels using the built-in ATSC tuner. I figured my trusty Radio Shack 15-2117 universal remote would work, but the Sanyo code only changed the channels and turned the tv on/off, menu system and the up/down/left/right/enter buttons do not function correctly.
Any suggestions as far as how to set up the tv?

Originally posted by augie0041
...
Any suggestions as far as how to set up the tv?
I bought a harmony 768 from amazon a while ago (I have since returned it). It is an 'Internet programmable remote', which basically means you go to a website & select your TV, VCR, DVD, etc from a list, and it programs the remote with the known codes someone else uploaded.

This type of remote *should* work for you. I would say any learning remote would work, but since you don't have an original to teach it with, you might be SOL.

Otherwise, you might be able to find a programmable remote, as long as someone is able to cough up all the codes for the remote.

I think a new (smarter) universal remote might be your only way to work around it. Since you saved so much on the TV, you can afford a really cool remote :D

By the way, the reason I returned the 768, is because there weren't enough buttons on the remote & the majority of functions I was using I would have to scroll through a menu for...pretty annoying. but some like the simplicity.

Originally posted by gormly2
I don't mean to be a jerk or anything, but was this a serious post?

am_pcguy, did you really go through all the channels to get to the other inputs? I would imagine it was just excitement on getting an HDTV that led you to not RTM or check the remote?

Again, I am not trying to be a jerk or smarta@@, it just seems like maybe am_guy was being funny or something?

Yes, I know about the input button, and yes I read the manual.

It wasn't really a question I was just saying it is the ONLY thing I'm not thrilled about. Maybe I'm missing something but if I am on channel 61 and hit the channel up button I get HDMI, Video 1, Video 2, Component 3, Component 4, then channel 3.1 on the digital tuner. Is there some way to exclude the video inputs?

I realize I could hit 03 or the Tuner button to switch between the analog and digital tuner, but I'm use to just flipping through the channels.

Augie... can you input advanced codes into your Radio Shack remote? If so, see this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5231021&highlight=discrete#post5231021) and this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4822501&highlight=discrete#post4822501) for how to assign a direct menu adjustments for this tube.

If not, I believe your remote *IS* jp1 configurable. If you're not already familiar with jp1, head over to HiFi-Remote (http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa) and read up on it. With a jp1 cable and some software you will be able to "hack" your remote and manually upgrade it to include the discrete codes necessary for entering the Sanyo's menu (hint the Advanced Codes and the EFC codes are the same).

OK sorry to double post but here is the deal. NOT A BIG DEAL this was a teeny tiny minor gripe. I don't even know why i'm typing this as it is such a minor problem. In my post I was trying to express how happy I was with the TV and that was the only thing that I wasn't use to.

I have the remote, I read the manual (not that it's all that great...).
On every TV I've ever owned. You press the "Input" or "TV/Video" button on the TV or remote to cycle through the external inputs. The input button on this TV does this.
The Channel "Up" "Down" buttons ONLY cycle through the analog or digial channels available through the Tuner. On this TV it cycles through both Tuners AND the external inputs. I'm going to check when I get home to see if I can delete the inputs in the menu, just like you can add and delete channels.

After a quick check, Augie, it looks like you should be able to use the advanced codes. Check here (http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/advanced.shtml) for more info.

Originally posted by am_pcguy
OK sorry to double post but here is the deal. NOT A BIG DEAL this was a teeny tiny minor gripe. I don't even know why i'm typing this as it is such a minor problem. In my post I was trying to express how happy I was with the TV and that was the only thing that I wasn't use to.


No happiness is allowed on this website.:mad: :mad: :mad::mad: :mad: :mad:
:mad: :mad: :mad: :D <-- Hey, where did that one come from!

I've seen a lot of newer TVs and VCRs (mainly cheaper brands like Sanyo and Sharp.. my Philips VCR does the same thing) include inputs as channels rather than having them separate.

Thank you sensibull for your help, I've been able to program a few codes into my 15-2117 and with it, I was able to search for channels and at least start using the tv. But it's really hard because I cannot get the Up/Down/Left/Right Cursor keys to work.
Any suggestions?

Has anyone managed to hook up this 30" tv to a HTPC? I am having trouble using a DVI-HDMI cable from my NVidia GeForce MX 4000. I cann't tell it to go into widescreen, and it jitters on me. I can get a 4x3 picture and WOW, it's clear, I didnt think I'd be able actually read any text. But I cant manage to get it 16x9!!

Have you tried 1280x720?

It just simply remains a 4x3 box on my widescreen tv. It doesn't seem to care about the horizontal x vertical numbers I enter, it just stays 4 x 3!!
I think it's more of a NVidia GeForce4 hardware problem then a HT30744 problem, but I'm sure someone here has the same problem as me!

Have you set the picture shape to full instead of normal?

Originally posted by kevbeck122
Have you set the picture shape to full instead of normal?

Meaning on the TV, not the nvidia settings. This is likely your problem, and if you haven't already, you'll need to use the Advanced Codes to add this function to your remote. (Pix Shape is 106)

Well after reading 91 pages of the thread, and however many pages in the previous thread, I wanted to give my 2 cents on the TV.

I bought this TV mainly because it gives you a good bit of bang for so few bucks. Plus all the positive feedback from people here on it.

But one annoyance I have with this set, is the darn thing is so dark! I've read many things on here about having the brightness turned down for best results. I have also run the THX optimizer and according to that my screen should be just peachy. But I still find that the picture is just too dark.

A good example would be tonight. I was watching Law and Order, and while in court, all the men were wearing dark suits. Well on the screen, you could NOT make out anything detial at all with the dark material on the suits. It just looks all black. I even turned on Discovery HD channel and was watching something on Alexander, and although the outside seens that were sunlit looked fine, but the majority of the other scenes I thought were just too dark.

Currently I have the brightness set up a tad below 3/4 and now I could make out details in the dark suits for example. Heck , my 8 year old 27'' Samsung TV was brighter and more defining that this Sanyo.

Of course I have the counter clockwise tilt on the screen, which I am trying to just overlook, but the lack of brighter definintion is aweful.

I am going to stop at Circuit City tomorrow and check out the 30" Phillips. I am curious if it has tilt adjustment. And actually, I remember the display model of the Sanyo sitting next to the Phillips that Walmart used to carry, and I remember now that the phillips seems much brighter than the Sanyo.

Originally posted by sensibull
Meaning on the TV, not the nvidia settings. This is likely your problem, and if you haven't already, you'll need to use the Advanced Codes to add this function to your remote. (Pix Shape is 106)

Thanks again! I tried Pix Shape once not really knowing what it was for, with no luck. Then since you said it's what I needed I messed around with it some more, and BAM! all of the sudden, I see the widescreen fill in! Now I love my tv!

A few minutes before I finally figured it out, I called Sanyo Support and mentioned I bought the last tv at Walmart, and they didnt have the manual or remote. The rep immediately asked for my address and is sending me them! SWEET!

Is there a way for the cursor keys to be mapped onto the 15-2117?

Onto trying to get QAM to work using Cablevision Long Island. Anything in particular I should know about it? Does anyone know if Cablevision is allowing at least the broadcast stations? I don't have the most ideal setup where my tv is... i.e. I have many splits and other tvs hooked up as well. Is it possible that any of this may interfere with the possibility of getting the QAM stations?

Oh yeah, MaskedCarrot... yeah, the picture is very dark for me too. Kinda frustrating, but during bright scenes the picture is stunning! I'm used to this as I watch lots of DivX and Xvid movies, and it seems like the darker colors are harder to compress then lighter colors. (So I'm used to screwed up dark scenes)

Originally posted by augie0041

Oh yeah, MaskedCarrot... yeah, the picture is very dark for me too. Kinda frustrating, but during bright scenes the picture is stunning! I'm used to this as I watch lots of DivX and Xvid movies, and it seems like the darker colors are harder to compress then lighter colors. (So I'm used to screwed up dark scenes)

So might this just be a trait of HD CRTs?

I'll still take a look at the Phillips tomorrow and see what that it like. Of course checking it out in the store isn't that good of a comparison because of all the bright lighting.

Originally posted by augie0041
Onto trying to get QAM to work using Cablevision Long Island. Anything in particular I should know about it? Does anyone know if Cablevision is allowing at least the broadcast stations? I don't have the most ideal setup where my tv is... i.e. I have many splits and other tvs hooked up as well. Is it possible that any of this may interfere with the possibility of getting the QAM stations?

Try it out and see if it works. It should only take 10-15 minutes at most to scan for channels. Before I got this TV, I called up Time Warner to ask if they were sending out any QAM signals in the clear. I got the typical customer service person who doesn't know anything technical, so of course she tells me no and that I need a box. I set this TV up in a temp location using a couple splits and I got all of the local HD stations and on demand preview channels when doing a QAM scan. It seemed though that the TV had to be warmed up for a minute or two before getting any of the QAM stations to the point of them being watchable (lots of blocks and audio loss during this 1-2 minute period). I'm sure your cable company is sending out locals in the clear.

@Masked Carrot: My set is dark too, particularly on HD channels, but I believe that, yes, some of this is an adjustment to the truer blacks in HD signals. I remember noticing it a LOT more during the first few weeks I had this TV. Then I must have gotten used to it, and had honestly forgotten about it until I saw you post.

@Augie: If your Radio Shack is like the other JP1 learning remotes, then you should be able to learn the cursor keys from the Sanyo remote once you have it. Otherwise, you will need to get a JP1 cable, read up on the necessary software and steps at HiFi Remote (http://www.hifi-remote.com), and load the upgrade discussed in this (http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4565) thread into your remote.

Also, depending on your number of splits and length of cable used, etc. you may be experiencing a degradation of your signal, which will make picking up the digital channels (and keeping them glitch free) more difficult. Make sure you are using quality cables and splitters, and if necessary use one these RF Amplifiers (http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&DID=7&CAT_ID=55&ObjectGroup_ID=529&SO=2). (I have five splits including the one to my cable modem, and a fair amount of wire, so I added one of these amps recently and saw a nice boost in quality, particularly in the Standard Def analog channels. YMMV, but here's (http://*******.com/gfmn) a page to help you determine whether you need one.)

Originally posted by MaskedCarrot
A good example would be tonight. I was watching Law and Order, and while in court, all the men were wearing dark suits. Well on the screen, you could NOT make out anything detial at all with the dark material on the suits. It just looks all black. I even turned on Discovery HD channel and was watching something on Alexander, and although the outside seens that were sunlit looked fine, but the majority of the other scenes I thought were just too dark.


I have noticed problems on Law and Order as well. My picture always looks wierd on this show but looks fantastic for ER, so maybe some of it is a production issue with the show. I have heard that black and dark colors are an issue on HD signals in general.
One note, when you go to compare the Philips, keep in mind that it is most likely going to be displaying an analog signal rather than a digital. Make sure you are comparing the same signal between the two TVs.

Two Questions please:

1. Is Component Output just as good video quality wise as HDMI?

I have 3 High End Sources:

1 HTPC that can output SVideo or DVI
1 DVD that outputs component
1 HD Cable Box (8300HD) that does HDMI and Component.

I want the BEST Output for the HDBox because that is where I will be getting real true HD signal from. Would it make a difference using the component VS the HDMI on that?

My Receiver can only handle 2 Component Sources, that means I either hook up the DVD and HDBox to component on receiver and output to component on TV and hook the HTPC to TV up with a DVI to HDMI (already have this)
OR use the HDMI to HDMI on the HDBox to TV and DVD to component and HTPC to SVideo on receiver.

(note, the TV will also have one SVideo source running to it)


Is there such a thing as a DVI to component adapter?

Can anyone see an alternative here? I want the best video from each component.


Second Question

I have a Pronto remote and with all the video sources I will have, I need a way to switch them.
The TV remotes signal does not stay on long enough for the Pronto to "Learn" it, or at least it is not working for me.
I am looking for discreet codes for this TV for the Pronto.
Does anyone have or know where to find that? Like maybe a .ccf file?

Prontos use hex codes, right? If so, you should be able to convert the Advanced Codes (a.k.a. EFCs) that I posted here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5231021&highlight=discrete#post5231021) into Hex Codes using the IR.exe software found here (http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3728) and create your own .ccf. (Note the discrete for Comp2, which, when combined with a couple up or down channel presses will create discrete macros for each input).

Originally posted by Launchpad
I have noticed problems on Law and Order as well. My picture always looks wierd on this show but looks fantastic for ER, so maybe some of it is a production issue with the show. I have heard that black and dark colors are an issue on HD signals in general.
One note, when you go to compare the Philips, keep in mind that it is most likely going to be displaying an analog signal rather than a digital. Make sure you are comparing the same signal between the two TVs.

But if the Phillips in the store is showing an analog signal, then wouldn't it look worse?

I also want to check if the phillips has a tilt adjustment. My Sanyo like many others there has a slight counter clockwise tilt to it. It is mainly just noticed when viewing letter box stuff. But although it doesn't bother me much, the fact that KNOWING that my set does that is what bothers me. hehe

I'm talking purely about the display of black or dark colors. The picture quality on an analog signal would most definitely be worse, but the brightness issue you are talking about may not be apparent unless you are viewing an HD signal. Make sure you take a good look at the brightness of an analog picture on your Sanyo for comparison purposes if the philips you are looking at is only displaying analog.

Personally, I thought the Samsung had the brightest and best looking colors, but I read enough about major issues with it that I decided to go with the Sanyo. I have been very pleased with my choice.

Originally posted by gormly2
Two Questions please:

1. Is Component Output just as good video quality wise as HDMI?



This is an analog TV, so theoretically there's no reason for HDMI to be better than component. But the component INPUTS on this TV are utter trash, so you could always use HDMI/DVI were possible.

Originally posted by Yus
This is an analog TV, so theoretically there's no reason for HDMI to be better than component. But the component INPUTS on this TV are utter trash, so you could always use HDMI/DVI were possible.

Ok Now I am confused.

On Sanyo's website it says:

"HDTV (High Definition Digital TV)
1080 vertical lines of interlaced scanning (1080i) provide an exceptionally clean and detailed picture. Equipped with both analog (NTSC) and digital (ATSC) tuners to receive DTV off-air (terrestrial) signals. "

Is this an anolog TV and if so, what does it do with HDMI input? convert it to analog?

What would be the point of using HDMI to get a better signal if the TV doesn't actually do digital, woudn't component be better in that case?


explain "trash"... please.

All CRT's are analog, its just the nature of the technology. An HD CRT like these sanyos convert a digital signal to an analog signal the TV can use. So a source like HDMI or DVI gets converted back to an analog RGB signal to be sent to the picture tube. This is what Yus was describing. So in theory, an HDMI or DVI will look the same a signal comming in from component because they all will be an analog RGB signal being sent to the tube.

Now, since these Sanyos seem to have bad component inputs with static/noise, the picture you get from the HDMI plug will look better than what you'd get through the component jacks.

Hate to sound too condensending, but just spend $30 to try out the two types of connections yourself. Some people's sets have flaws with the component inputs, but if yours don't you'll be perfectly happy with them. If you have have bad component inputs, then use HDMI.

Well I went down to Circuit City today abd compared a bunch of 30 inch widescreen HD CRTs. I found that all of them seemed to have the same dark symptoms as the Sanyo, so I conclude that the dark problems I noticed on the Sanyo are a common occurance on these TVs.

Of all the ones I looked at, they all had a tilt adjustment. It really irkes me that the Sanyo doesn't. I also noticed that pretty much all of them have some kind of bowing effect when displaying a 4:3 image. When you look at the black bars on the left and right, it is noticable. But I corrected mine for the most part in the service menu.

I do however notice that I need to keep the brightness control at almost 3/4 on my set to have a level I am happy with. Ironically everyone else seems to prefer it at around 1/4. To each their own I guess.

There was a 30" Panasonic one there though that I really liked, and it was on sale for around $850 until tomorrow. But unforunately I don't have the added money to get it if I took my Sanyo back.

So my conclusion is this. All the TVs I looked at displayed similar faults, and I am suprised that the companies who make these devices expect consumers to settle for little problems like this if they are dishing out $800 + for a set. But considered I payed $550 for my Sanyo, I think it is really is a good bang for the buck. It is not perfect, but for the price you can't beat it.

I just wish that there were more channels in high def. I am waiting for Comcast to get around to giving us HD TNT in our market, considering they have in a lot of others. I watch a lot of TNT, so I think that will cure some of my "Law and Order" problems. hehe

The Walmart I bought my set from has 1 30" Sanyo left. I was thinking about exchanging mine for the other one, but considering I have to find someone to help me load this into my SUV and haul another one home, and the fact that the other sey might have more problems, I figured I would just live with that little quirks my set has.

Originally posted by MaskedCarrot

But one annoyance I have with this set, is the darn thing is so dark! I've read many things on here about having the brightness turned down for best results. I have also run the THX optimizer and according to that my screen should be just peachy. But I still find that the picture is just too dark.



I was at one of the high end Stereo shop in town the other day checking out Front Projection systems for my home theater room. The sales rep kicked it over to an HD feed and Law and Order was on. He said "I hate this show, HD video tends to be darker but Law and Order is the worst. We've tried watching it on every Display in the store and it is always very dark." It did look very dark, and this was on a $6000 front projection system.

Using the Avia DVD, the Sanyo I have is about 1/3 the way up for contrast, and about 1/2 way up for brightness. NBC seems darker in general, however PBS HD looks wonderful. The Standard Def channels on the 2nd tuner are all very bright. I'm fairly certain the problem is the video not the TV.

i just got the ht30744 not so happy with it yet..wat are all the adjustments that need to be made? like service menu and colors. The qam picks up like 2 hd channles they suck too...mabye cuz its 1 oclock..also pinshion all around seems to be screwy..sorry dont want to search through all the pages...

Yes, I too have felt that the picture is too dark especially on Component and Video Inputs. On coax input, the brightness is alright. Can someone point me to the service menu manual for 32744?

Thank you,
Praveen

thanx for the help guys! went to the service menu and now the tv shows no picture!

My Sanyo 30744 worked great from December until about one month ago when I lost the local PBS channel and the ABC channel has too weak a signal to view. Sanyo support told me they have never seen a bad digital tuner but that it could be the problem. They told me to return it to Walmart and get a new one. Walmart tells me they only take TV's back for 90 days after which time you must go to the manufacturer for a return. Has anyone had a similar problem with their set or maybe someone knows what might be wrong without the hassle of contacting Sanyo for a replacement, if they would even honor one?

All other channels are getting a strong signal and the transmitters are within 10 miles with an outside on the roof antenna that had worked for months with these two channels. Thanks for any help or sympathy given.

Walmart should let you return it. I'm pretty sure sanyo tvs are allows to be returned there at any point within the warrenty.

Walmart should let you return it. I'm pretty sure sanyo tvs are allows to be returned there at any point within the warrenty.

Yes Walmartz got a 90 return and a 1 year exchange policy on Sanyos

thanx for the help guys! went to the service menu and now the tv shows no picture!

I guess you should have read the posts.

All other channels are getting a strong signal and the transmitters are within 10 miles with an outside on the roof antenna that had worked for months with these two channels. Thanks for any help or sympathy given.

Did your antenna's aiming changes (weather/wind)?
New foliage on trees affecting signal(s)?
Have you contacted the stations to see if they are having broadcasting problems?

I guess you should have read the posts.
i did...its just hard to go through all those posts again...never saw anything about adjusting one thing in the service menu and having it turn off the screen!

Anyway i have the bug so now i think i might just buy the new lg 30in, even though it doesnt fit into my budget!

Well although I don't have any major gripes about the Sanyo, except for the slight tilting issue, I keep having this feeling that the grass is greener on the other side, as the saying goes. :)

I was at Circuit City last week and was looking at 30 inch WS models, and really liked the new Panasonic 30 inch. I was debating taking the Sanyo back and getting the Panasonic. Althought it is really not in my budget, and it would force me to pay my car payment a week later, but I dunno.

As much as I like the Sanyo, I keep thinking that not matter how nice it is, spending a few hundred more on a differnet set would somehow yields a nicer display.

The antenna is high enough to avoid leafy blockage and nothing has changed in the aiming of it. The pbs channel is in a major metropolitan market and if it were down for 3 months it would be big news.

I have recently lost the audio on one channel. No other channels are affected and sometimes the audio comes back if I wait for five or so minutes.

As much as I like the Sanyo, I keep thinking that not matter how nice it is, spending a few hundred more on a differnet set would somehow yields a nicer display.

My thinking was that the few hundred dollars I'm saving will be better spent on a 50" DLP/LCD/LCoS/Plasma/etc. in 18 months than they would on any TV today. If you are viewing this TV as a permanent long-term primary viewing set, you might want to shell out bigger bucks for a better brand. If you are like me, this set is just a holdover until the fixed pixel sets come down in price, and will then be relegated to the bedroom.

To each their own though :)




TOTAL SIDE NOTE: My three months to buy an extended warranty ends next week. I was going to buy one last night but decided not to after reading the terms and conditions. The extended warranty only covers in house repairs if the regular warranty does. No where in the regular warranty is in-house repairs mentioned at all, so that means any repairs on this beast could require you ship the television to a service center - with postage (including return postage) paid for by you. That would absolutely kill any value the warranty had, IMO. I'm sure it's not cheap to pack & ship a large 130lb box.

Prontos use hex codes, right? If so, you should be able to convert the Advanced Codes (a.k.a. EFCs) that I posted here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5231021&highlight=discrete#post5231021) into Hex Codes using the IR.exe software found here (http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3728) and create your own .ccf. (Note the discrete for Comp2, which, when combined with a couple up or down channel presses will create discrete macros for each input).

Ok I have been able to program the pronto by "learning" and I can easily set it to jump inputs.
If only I could get it to always jump to component 2 that would be perfect
which I cannot seem to do.

The hex codes are way beyond me.

I tried the program and have no clue how to use it, messed with the efc calc and got even more confused.

I am not sure on this but ProntoEdit has a "define RC5" section and then a "system" and "command" code section.
I think perhaps I could use that by setting the system as the device code?
But I do not know what the device code is.

Here is a snippet of the hex to get it to change inputs (in a row, not a jump to)

0000 006d 0022 0002 015b 00ad 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0014 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0014 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0014 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0651 015b 0057 0015 0e97

Can anyone shed some light or does anyone own a pronto who has done this?
all I need is it to jump to component 2, I can mess with it from there.

this is driving me nuts constantly switching from input on the reciver and input on the tv..... :eek:

TOTAL SIDE NOTE: My three months to buy an extended warranty ends next week. I was going to buy one last night but decided not to after reading the terms and conditions. The extended warranty only covers in house repairs if the regular warranty does. No where in the regular warranty is in-house repairs mentioned at all, so that means any repairs on this beast could require you ship the television to a service center - with postage (including return postage) paid for by you. That would absolutely kill any value the warranty had, IMO. I'm sure it's not cheap to pack & ship a large 130lb box.

I wondered about this too, I called the warranty information number that was listed and they assured me that they do in fact provide in-home service on any TV that size. I know I can't hold them accountable for what they say on the phone, but for the price I still saw it as a pretty sound investment. I'd be interested to see if others get the same response if they call.

From what I got out of the terms of the extended warranty is that you take the TV to Walmart, and they'll give you a comparable model or a check for the amount of the TV.

I too have the 30 inch sanyo and direct yv hd. I love the set and have it hooked up using component cables. I read someplace that using hdmi would make no difference on a crt direc view set and was wondering if anyone could verify this for me? My direc tv receiver is only dvi so i would have to get an dvi to hdmi cable. Would this matter? thanks for any help I can get

I too have the 30 inch sanyo and direct yv hd. I love the set and have it hooked up using component cables. I read someplace that using hdmi would make no difference on a crt direc view set and was wondering if anyone could verify this for me? My direc tv receiver is only dvi so i would have to get an dvi to hdmi cable. Would this matter? thanks for any help I can get

Initially when I got my Sanyo, I had it hooked it up to component. I went to WalMart and bought a DVI-HDMI cable since my cable box has a DVI port on it.

I definately noticed a better picture. HDMI does make a difference.

If this TV had good component jacks, you would notice no difference between HDMI and component. CRTs are analog, therefore the digital signal from the HDMI port is converted to an analog signal so it can be displayed on the TV. Since this TV doesn't have very good component jacks, you might see better results with the HDMI port depending on the source.

Is there something wrong with the component inputs on this set? As if you cant tell I'm new to the hdtv scene. We had to get a set that fit in our entertainment center and this one was perferct.

Some people have problems with their component inputs, others do not. If you don't, then there's nothing to worry about.

Did your antenna's aiming changes (weather/wind)?
New foliage on trees affecting signal(s)?
Have you contacted the stations to see if they are having broadcasting problems?




The antenna is high enough to avoid leafy blockage and nothing has changed in the aiming of it. The pbs channel is in a major metropolitan market and if it were down for 3 months it would be big news.

I have recently lost the audio on one channel. No other channels are affected and sometimes the audio comes back if I wait for five or so minutes.

Alright guys, here is my question. Its time now to buy a new tv for my room. Ive narrowed down my choice to the 27 inch sanyo I saw at walmart for 440, or a 27 inch samsung at best buy for 424. The samsung doesnt have a built in tuner but Im not really concerned with that since Ill be getting one from my cable company anyway. The primary purpose of this tv will be dvd watching and game playing. I have a ps2 and a gamecube, both of them will do progressive scan on certain games, and Ive got a samsung progressive scan dvd player. Theyll be run through my yamaha recievers hd component in and out plugs. So my question is, if you were given the choice of those two tvs, which one would you buy?

:D Well boys I finally registered,ive been reading your posts on the sanyo 30 ever since I saw it a few months back at wm.4 $399. call me crazy 4 not buying,but yesterday it was$365,Yes I know its a steal but should i buy?

I am a new HT30744 owner and am now having the following problem:
Periodically the TV will just turn off with a click. This can happen when the unit has not been in use for 6-8 hours or it can happen after the unit has been on for anywhere between .5 hour to 3 or 4 hours. Sometimes you can hit the power button on remote and it will come back on, sometimes the power button on the console itself works, sometimes you have to unplug it(upon which you hear another click) and then plug it back in and hit the power button.

From the manual there is a cryptic mention of a power surge protection feature that may turn the TV off. I have other electronic equipment plugged in the same electrical power bar that has no problems working. I also have tried plugging the tv into a completely different electrical outlet to no avail. Granted the other outlet may still be on the same circuit.

I would appreciate any input other owners may have.

Thanks

I am a new HT30744 owner and am now having the following problem:
Periodically the TV will just turn off with a click. This can happen when the unit has not been in use for 6-8 hours or it can happen after the unit has been on for anywhere between .5 hour to 3 or 4 hours. Sometimes you can hit the power button on remote and it will come back on, sometimes the power button on the console itself works, sometimes you have to unplug it(upon which you hear another click) and then plug it back in and hit the power button.

From the manual there is a cryptic mention of a power surge protection feature that may turn the TV off. I have other electronic equipment plugged in the same electrical power bar that has no problems working. I also have tried plugging the tv into a completely different electrical outlet to no avail. Granted the other outlet may still be on the same circuit.

I would appreciate any input other owners may have.

Thanks

Do yourself a favor and return it...mine used to due that and then i went to the service menu and bam! stop working after unpluging it. I have the 28 inch and while the picture doesnt look as glossy andnice..it looks ral(which i happen not to like)

I found a Sanyo 30 a few hours away from my house. I’m hoping to pick it up with my Subaru hatchback. Did anyone measure the box? I forgot my tape measure.

If it doesn’t fit I was thinking about taking it out of the box in the parking lot. Is this nuts? Could I get away with this without damaging the TV? Is the TV (once removed from the box) still in some kind of protective wrapping? Will the WalMart guys help me load it?

Thanks!

The box is 39"L x 28"W x 28"H. There is some kind of thin foamy stuff on the TV, but if you are planning on taking it out of the box, I would take a couple of blankets.

Anyone here knows why Sanyo deleted HDMI connection on their new HD model HT27745 and HT28745?

I just bought the Ht30744 30" widescreen and have been pleased with it thus far(about a week). The television however is starting to make a fairly loud buzz(about a quarter of a second), when turning it on. I did a little research and have found that there are some power supply issues with this tv, oh and also it takes about 3 seconds after turning the tv on to get a picture. Has anyone had similar problems, and if so have they gotten worse. How big of a problem is this power supply thing? I love the tv, but would love it more if I had confidence in it.

If it doesn’t fit I was thinking about taking it out of the box in the parking lot. Is this nuts? Could I get away with this without damaging the TV? Is the TV (once removed from the box) still in some kind of protective wrapping? Will the WalMart guys help me load it?

Thanks!

I was in the same boat - had to take it out of the box to stuff it in a Toyota Camry. It has a box & styrofoam, but I stripped it all the way down to it's foam wrapper to fit it in the car. The guy who collected shopping carts (read: mentally disabled) "helped" me, but in all honesty, you don't need a strong person to help really - just someone to sit in the car and guide it in.

Anyone here knows why Sanyo deleted HDMI connection on their new HD model HT27745 and HT28745?

Going out on a limb here and guessing it's for profit margins. Most people who buy this TV would never use it anyway.

I just bought the Ht30744 30" widescreen and have been pleased with it thus far(about a week). The television however is starting to make a fairly loud buzz(about a quarter of a second), when turning it on. I did a little research and have found that there are some power supply issues with this tv, oh and also it takes about 3 seconds after turning the tv on to get a picture. Has anyone had similar problems, and if so have they gotten worse. How big of a problem is this power supply thing? I love the tv, but would love it more if I had confidence in it.

What you are mentioning is the degaussing process.. it's normal. Most, if not all CRTs degauss when you turn them on getting rid of any magnetic distortion in the image.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease.

I forgot, I also did the whole thx thing, and on one of the tests where I put the tv in 4:3 mode i'm supposed to see a perfect circle, and two rectangular boxes around it. The circle is perfect, but the ends of the outside box has been cropped off on the right side of the screen. The optimizer said if it wasn't perfect than my vetical, and or horizontal scaling is off and I should call a service tech. I called sanyo, and they really didn't have a clue. Anyone else here have the same problem.

Help!
I am trying to program my Pronto remote to work with both this TV and my new Onkyo receiver.

The receiver is easy and works like a breeze.
The problem is the TV.

I have 4 sources.

2 coming from the receiver SVideo to TV Video 1
2 coming from the receiver Component Out to TV Component 3

Now since there is no way to tell what input you are actually on at any given time, I cannot simply program my Pronto with a few input commands.

What I did was this:

Created a "page" (panel for those in the know) for each of my devices

Once you are in the system somewhere, let's say Video 1 - Svideo device1
The Pronto has a Button to go to Component 2 / TV Component 3
It does this by sending a learned "Input" keypress, it sends it 3 times to move up 3 inputs on the TV to Component 3

Works GREAT!!

The problem is going around the other way.
I can't seem to get the remote to work with the stupid change delay I have on the first input of the TV.

It goes from Component 3 to HDMI instantly and then goes to the first input and hangs.. will not accept a code for a second or two. Runs through all the rest of the inputs just fine.

I only have sources to to the TV's Video 1 and Component 3 so each time I cycle the inputs to get to the other, it hangs on the first input (regular analog cable input I assume)
the hang time doesn't seem to be consistant and thus, my Pronto isn't working with it.
Sometimes it gets it right, others undershoots.
I do not have a source for that input and I would imagine it is "looking"

very annoying.

Can I disable that input or something?
or get it to the point where it isn't hanging somehow?

Hi All,

First time post here. I just bought the 32" Sanyo model (HT32744) four days ago. After getting it home and up three stories (with the help of four people), I immediately noticed yellow discoloration in the top lefthand corner of the screen. I've searched the forums for any mention of this and have only come across refrences to speakers being near the TV. There are none within 15 feet of my set.

Is this a serviceable problem? Has anyone else seen this? I'm trying to avoid boxing this back up and replacing it (IF I can find a new one).

Thanks

metro_88,

Direct-view CRT color televisions incorporate automatic degaussing circuitry that is invoked for a short period of time every time the TV is powered up. The purpose is to maintain, and improve if needed, the color purity and "across-the-screen" consistency by demagnetizing briefly in a conservative way.

I have seen modern-day color TVs (not HD) that looked like they were never going to recover from external magnetic interference and the residual effects on the color purity. Colors around the edges of the screen were WAY off. In the worst example that I saw personally, it took nearly a month of everyday use (including on and off power cycles, at least once daily) for the nasty color distortions to gradually disappear, resulting in a "normal" picture with consistent colors having returned.

That said, if I were you, I would give your set some time. It may have been stored near something with a strong enough magnetic field to cause the impurity that you see. I definitely do NOT know any specifics for your particular HDTV, but I would be real surprised if it was not capable of the same gradual restoration of color purity. OTOH, if the set was not properly adjusted at the factory, the problem you are seeing might not go away without internal (physical) adjustments to the TV.

Good luck, and let us know the outcome.

Is there anyone here who has played an insane amount of xbox, or ps2 on there ht30744. I am a big gamer and plan on playing alot on mine(just got it). I figured I would wait till the break in period was over( I guess about 100 hours of full screen viewing), and then go hard. Has anyone noticed any signs of burn in on there tv from gaming. Thanks.

I am a new HT30744 owner and am now having the following problem:
Periodically the TV will just turn off with a click. This can happen when the unit has not been in use for 6-8 hours or it can happen after the unit has been on for anywhere between .5 hour to 3 or 4 hours. Sometimes you can hit the power button on remote and it will come back on, sometimes the power button on the console itself works, sometimes you have to unplug it(upon which you hear another click) and then plug it back in and hit the power button.

From the manual there is a cryptic mention of a power surge protection feature that may turn the TV off. I have other electronic equipment plugged in the same electrical power bar that has no problems working. I also have tried plugging the tv into a completely different electrical outlet to no avail. Granted the other outlet may still be on the same circuit.

I would appreciate any input other owners may have.

Thanks

Well yesterday I took the Sanyo HT30744 back to Walmart and since they no longer carry that model I went with the Sanyo HT28745. I'll miss the two inches but since this was an upgrade from a 19inch no big deal. Hooked it up and works great except for a concave effect on the left and right edges in 4:3 mode. Some seem to call this a pincushion effect.

So now I am in a quandry as to whether to take it back and give up on the Sanyo's or try and do something through the service menu. I have not been able to find a service manual for the ht28745....it's pretty new to market. The service menu seems to be the same but when the service manual for the ht30744 says on page 17 to "Adjust the data with the numeric keys for straight vertical lines" I admit I am not following how I know what to adjust the data to?

Welcome any feedback...

i play hours of xbox games everyday and no burn in whatsoever. Ive had my tv since christmas

If there is anybody that is using the 32" model with a HTPC connected to the HDMI port using a Nvidia 5900XT, could you please tell me how to get the HTPC to output 1080i. Everytime I set the gfx card to output 1080i, I get MASSIVE vertical flicker and graphics corruption. I have no problem with 720p except, I can't get a proper underscan using that res for my flight sims. I am slowly going bald trying to get a decent 1080i output. Other than the HTPC problem, I really like the set and get good display from SD, HD, and my DVD's. I also noticed the "boing" sound at start-up and was worried 'till I saw the post about degaussing. Thanks for that info.
Silvertip

I thought that noise was degauss when I first hooked it up but wasnt sure until the second day. I turned it on and my pc monitor is about 3 1/2 feet from it and as the boing made its way my pc monitor slightly degaussed at the same time. LOL

If there is anybody that is using the 32" model with a HTPC connected to the HDMI port using a Nvidia 5900XT, could you please tell me how to get the HTPC to output 1080i. Everytime I set the gfx card to output 1080i, I get MASSIVE vertical flicker and graphics corruption. I have no problem with 720p except, I can't get a proper underscan using that res for my flight sims. I am slowly going bald trying to get a decent 1080i output. Other than the HTPC problem, I really like the set and get good display from SD, HD, and my DVD's. I also noticed the "boing" sound at start-up and was worried 'till I saw the post about degaussing. Thanks for that info.
Silvertip

I've got the 32" Sanyo hooked up via DVI/HDMI to a FX5200 card. I've never been able to achieve 1080i with NVIDIA's driver or with Powerstrip. In my research here at these forums over the past year, I've never heard of anyone able to achieve 1080i with the 32" model.

Your best hopes (& mine, too :D ) are to get on NVIDIA's case to add in some overscan adjustment features for 32" HDTV owners as the widescreen HDTV owners seem to be enjoying the NVIDIA drivers more than the 4:3 owners.

In parallel, you could try messing around with the set's service menu to reduce overscan in 720p. Someone did this a while ago & the adjustments he made only affected the HDMI channel from what I remember.

I'm enjoying this set with Meedio & ZP as my main apps. Both of them can compensate for overscan, so that makes me happy. I'm not as happy when running my emulators as I haven't been able to compensate for overscan in my emulator apps.

Good luck,
jawgee

Thanks 49er, it's good to know this tv will hold up.

I'm enjoying this set with Meedio & ZP as my main apps. Both of them can compensate for overscan, so that makes me happy. I'm not as happy when running my emulators as I haven't been able to compensate for overscan in my emulator apps.

Good luck,
jawgee

Can you tell me what exact settings you have it on?
Primary display? Special Resolution?

I am having a terrible time getting my set to work with the 5200.
I can't seem to get the full desktop on the thing, the only thing that works is if I use SVideo and HDMI and set SVideo as the primary display

If possible could you run through all the settings?
You would be helping me out big time.

Thanks

Can you tell me what exact settings you have it on?
Primary display? Special Resolution?

I am having a terrible time getting my set to work with the 5200.
I can't seem to get the full desktop on the thing, the only thing that works is if I use SVideo and HDMI and set SVideo as the primary display

If possible could you run through all the settings?
You would be helping me out big time.

Thanks

Hi gormly2,

I'm not doing anything out of the ordinary. I only have one display unit, my Sanyo 32" HDTV, connected to my FX5200 card via DVI-to-HDMI. I'm running the latest official NVIDIA drivers at 800x600 display resolution. The Sanyo Info remote button tells me that this equates to a 720p signal (not sure how true that is), but I get a full 4:3 computer display with about 10-15% overscan. I think the only thing I chose in the NVIDIA control panel is DVI display type. I'll post a screenshot of my control panel later tonight when I get home.

Are you looking for parallel s-video & HDMI output or are you just testing things out trying to get something to display? I'm not sure how that affects the TV display as I haven't played around with multiple outputs.

Thanks,
jawgee

Hi gormly2,



Are you looking for parallel s-video & HDMI output or are you just testing things out trying to get something to display? I'm not sure how that affects the TV display as I haven't played around with multiple outputs.

Thanks,
jawgee

I just want it to work, period, at any resolution right now...
parrallel, dual, single.. whatever.

I can't get it to do anything via just HDMI.
screen shot would be nice thanks

I do not think 800x600 qualifies as 720, but I could be wrong..

I can't seem to get my xbox into 16:9 with this tv. I have set the xbox to widescreen and the images displayed on the TV are all 4:3. When I put in Freedom fighters (720P) I get a 16:9 display but it is put into a 4:3 window on the tv. So no matter what game I put in I always have large black bars on the sides. ??? What am I missing here? I can stretch it with the TV modes (zoom 1,2) but then I am missing content and not getting a true 16:9 display. I have the HD pack and component inputs.

edit: I have the 30" 16:9

Try hitting the pix shape button. Put it onto full. I'm thinking that will work(hopefully).

Try hitting the pix shape button. Put it onto full. I'm thinking that will work(hopefully).Yeah, full will force a 4:3 image into a 16:9 shape (causing distortion) but I thought xbox will display games in a native 16:9 display? Maybe not all of them but I assumed Freadom Fighters (a 720P game) and forza did. I tried posting images but I need a couple more posts in order to have that ability.

Maybe this is an xbox issue and not a TV issue. I will post the pics in a couple more posts so you can see what I am talking about.

Yeah, full will force a 4:3 image into a 16:9 shape (causing distortion) but I thought xbox will display games in a native 16:9 display?
In other words, putting the TV in normal mode should give a 16:9 display when you have your xbox set to widescreen output but mine is not.

I seem to remember hearing that some 720p xbox games would only output 720p with a 4:3 aspect ratio. If that is the case, then even having the setting in the dash set to 16:9 woudln't do anything. If the xbox is outputing a 16:9 image, then you would definitly need your tv set in full mode to have that 16:9 image fill the screen as it is supposed to.

I seem to remember hearing that some 720p xbox games would only output 720p with a 4:3 aspect ratio. If that is the case, then even having the setting in the dash set to 16:9 woudln't do anything. If the xbox is outputing a 16:9 image, then you would definitly need your tv set in full mode to have that 16:9 image fill the screen as it is supposed to.Here are some images of what I see. Sorry for the poor images this is an old camera.

Freedom FIghters in Normal 720P widescreen enabled
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/some1someplace/images/temp/FF_Normal.JPG

Notice the sides are missing content.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/some1someplace/images/temp/FF_Normal2.JPG
Here is what I am missing in the sides (image from online review):
http://image.com.com/gamespot/images/2003/xbox/freedomfighters/0919/xbff_screen007.jpg

Freedom FIghters in Full
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/some1someplace/images/temp/FF_Full.JPG

Also, if you look closely you can see some wavy horizontal lines which travel down the screen intermittenly.

man the 30 inch has much nicer gui

Last night, I was having a few troubles with my 30" that I tried to do a search for in this thread. I didn't find anything related, so I figure I'll ask before I make the trip to Wal-Mart to return this beast.

It all started when I wasn't getting any signal whatsoever from Fox (ch. 24 here). So I switched to another channel for a little while and during the first commercial break, I ran a channel scan (I only pick up 3 of the 7 local OTA HD stations, even though I'm only 11 miles from most of the towers). When it returned from the scan, suddenly all of my digital stations are no longer giving me any signal.

So I powered the set off, unplugged it for a couple minutes and turned it back on. Now I can watch NBC and UPN (the other 2 stations I pick up) -- so long as they are NOT broadcasting in HD. The minute either returns from a commercial break to a HD broadcast, the audio and video disappear. When I hit the info button, I'm getting an 80% signal strength or so, but no results from the TV.

Has anyone had similar troubles or know where I might be able to start in troubleshooting this? I've only had it 27 days, so I can still take it back to Wal-Mart, but I'd prefer not to if I can find a solution.

Thanks in advance!!!

did you check the antenna connection and aim? also is the antenna connected at the digital input? the other input will only do analog and not hd. what kind of antenna are you using?

I had not adjusted the antenna in at least a week because I get a solid signal on the 3 channels I can pick up. But I considered that as well and tried all 3 of the antennas I have - but nothing changed on either. The real odd part is how everything just disappears when something like the Tonight Show or Law & Order (being broadcast in 1080i) comes back from commercial.

My standard setup is a Zenith Silver Sensor attached to the digital input and a standard VHF/UHF amplified RCA antenna connected to the analog. Nothing has changed there either.

Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=488206&highlight=xbox+16+9) is an explanation on the widescreen/xbox issues. It seems my only problem is the missing content of the game on the left and right sides.

I just want it to work, period, at any resolution right now...
parrallel, dual, single.. whatever.

I can't get it to do anything via just HDMI.
screen shot would be nice thanks

I do not think 800x600 qualifies as 720, but I could be wrong..

Hey gormly2,

Here are screenshots from my Sanyo 32" HDTV + NVIDIA FX5200 card connected via a DVI-to-HDMI cable:

Pic #1 (http://www.metrocast.net/~jawgee/Stuff/NVIDIA%20Display%201.jpg)
Pic #3 (http://www.metrocast.net/~jawgee/Stuff/NVIDIA%20Display%202.jpg)
Pic #3 (http://www.metrocast.net/~jawgee/Stuff/NVIDIA%20Display%203.jpg)

Let me know if you have any questions about this setup.

Thanks,
jawgee

Buy from mashy76 on ebay... He sells cheap ones (usually 10 dollars shipped) and they still work great.

I have a HT30744 with a 8300HD from Cablevision. With my component cables, I would see banding, which from other posts, appeared to be due to the poor quality component jacks on the HT30744. I even tried a better cable - no difference.

Last week I purchased the 99 cent (+8.95 shipping) 6ft HDMI M/M cable from mashy76 on ebay as suggested, and it works great! No banding whatsoever, the picture is crystal clear, and the 5.1 audio is working great (now the Optical cable runs from the TV to my receiver, plus had to set Audio Output to HDMI). Thank you kevbeck for the cable suggestion!

I am not experiencing any of the HDCP errors that others are receiving, regardless of whether I turn the 8300HD or HT30744 on first. So if you have Cablevision, a HT30744 and a 8300HD, I recommend the HDMI cable from mashy76 on ebay.

Any one know if either INHD (not INHD2) or 13HD (PBS in NY) ever show HDTV test patterns? I read that HDNET does at times, however Cablevision does not offer this channel. If so, what days and times are the test patterns shown?

I have been experiencing discoloration issues with my HT32744. There are these blue blobs on the left and the right side of the screen has this yellow gradient going from left to right. I thought that this was due to my HT speakers causing interference with the tube(which they shouldn't as they are solidly shielded). I moved them away and turns out that the blobs are still there. It is especially evident on scenes with lighter colors where I can see the left side of the screen with a bluish tinge whereas the right side of the tube has quite a bit of yellow blooming (around faces and darker hair colors). Is there a way to fix this problem or this is a defective TV altogether? Any service menu tweaks? I have the set calibrated with AVIA and DVE.

evobrett did you set the xbox setting for widescreen in the dashboard?

I have a HT30744 with a 8300HD from Cablevision. With my component cables, I would see banding, which from other posts, appeared to be due to the poor quality component jacks on the HT30744. I even tried a better cable - no difference.

Last week I purchased the 99 cent (+8.95 shipping) 6ft HDMI M/M cable from mashy76 on ebay as suggested, and it works great! No banding whatsoever, the picture is crystal clear, and the 5.1 audio is working great (now the Optical cable runs from the TV to my receiver, plus had to set Audio Output to HDMI). Thank you kevbeck for the cable suggestion!

I am not experiencing any of the HDCP errors that others are receiving, regardless of whether I turn the 8300HD or HT30744 on first. So if you have Cablevision, a HT30744 and a 8300HD, I recommend the HDMI cable from mashy76 on ebay.

So you get DD5.1 sound from the cable box using the optical port on the TV? That's good to hear. I'm planning on getting the 8300HD, but I have to convince Time Warner to let me have one. They're too high in demand, so Time Warner isn't letting them go easy anymore. They said I could only have one if I was having a problem with a DVR.. which I don't have yet.

Any one know if either INHD (not INHD2) or 13HD (PBS in NY) ever show HDTV test patterns? I read that HDNET does at times, however Cablevision does not offer this channel. If so, what days and times are the test patterns shown?

INHD will be having their "tune up" show on June 11, 18 and 25 at 7:00AM EST I believe. http://www.inhd.com/product.jsp?prodId=23585&mp=cb2

evobrett did you set the xbox setting for widescreen in the dashboard?Yes, I have it set to widescreen. I have read there is an update to dashboard when you connect with xbox live but I have never connected. I have the halo edition xbox if that matters.

I'm using a new Panaonic DVD-S77 DVD player that upscales to 1080i. I'm using the HDMI input and it works but its kinda buggy. It displays it fine, but the image will lock onto that input sometimes. In other words changing the input doesn't work anymore, it continues to display the input from the DVD player. I'll even get the sound from the other input but it will continue to show the picture from the DVD. The only way to clear it is to turn it off and turn it back on.

Also the sound via the HDMI thru the DVD player is VERY buggy. Sometimes it works and most of the time it doesn't. Even when it works it usually stops working at some point. I haven't figured that out yet.

Anyone have any experience with this?

I have been experiencing discoloration issues with my HT32744. There are these blue blobs on the left and the right side of the screen has this yellow gradient going from left to right. I thought that this was due to my HT speakers causing interference with the tube(which they shouldn't as they are solidly shielded). I moved them away and turns out that the blobs are still there. It is especially evident on scenes with lighter colors where I can see the left side of the screen with a bluish tinge whereas the right side of the tube has quite a bit of yellow blooming (around faces and darker hair colors). Is there a way to fix this problem or this is a defective TV altogether? Any service menu tweaks? I have the set calibrated with AVIA and DVE.I have a similar problem with my new HT32744. It's a light-yellow blob in the lower left side of the screen noticible only when watching a black and white movie. I'm wondering if the Avia calibration DVD will help me remove it. If not, what's the remedy? It's about 10 days old now, but I really don't want to wrassle that 150 pound monster back to Wal-Mart.


BTW, I have no speakers or any other electronics near the set other than a DirectTiVo, a DVD player, and a VCR in the stand beneath the set. The latter two are powered down and not yet connected to the Sanyo. The TiVo is connected via S-Video.

Has anyone found a stand that matches up well with the 30 incher? I sit fairly close to my set (about 7 feet) and my old stand sits a little low for my taste (it's only 16 inches high). Anyone have a matching stand that sits any higher?Tech Craft makes two stands that are silver and a perfect match for the silver Sanyos. It even has a sloping bottom panel that echos the shape of the base of the Sanyo 32".

Tech Craft Model SAV26X fits 32" TVs and is 26" high. I bought the 18.5" Tech Craft Model QT36 and wish I had the extra 8" heighth now. The coffee table in front of my recliner has to be kept very clear of magazines fo my remote to reach the TiVo on the top shelf under the TV set. Another shelf would have been nice, too.
********************
Edit to mention that the second model number may be incorrect or only available at Circuit City. Tech Craft has a bewildering array of models and about ten of them are of this design. The SAV33 and DSAV320 are probably better examples of tall 32" stands by Tech Craft. Most are on display at http://www.racksandstands.com/

I have a similar problem with my new HT32744. It's a light-yellow blob in the lower left side of the screen noticible only when watching a black and white movie. I'm wondering if the Avia calibration DVD will help me remove it. If not, what's the remedy? It's about 10 days old now, but I really don't want to wrassle that 150 pound monster back to Wal-Mart.


I had a two 32744s both of which had this problem and both that I returned to Walmart. Originally, Sanyo said that maybe this was because of exposure to magnetic fields when it was stored at Walmart. I returned the 1st and got the 2nd one which had been just delivered (i.e. no time to be exposed to bad effects). It also had this problem, less than the 1st but just as noticeable. Within a month the blobs were becoming extremely irritating. At this point I got hold of a well-known tech at Sanyo who confirmed that this was an attribute of the set and that I'd either have to live with it or return the set - so back went the 2nd set. When I returned the set, the Walmart guys told me that I was the 6th customer to bring one back for the same problem (wish they'd said something before I bought it - this mother is one heavy set).

It appears this problem is in many of the sets to some degree and that a number of customers don't believe it to be a sufficient problem to make a big deal about. On my sets the yellow blob was very bright and showed up on the right side of the tube whenever something light or white was in that region. Black-n-white movies would show off the blue and yellow blobs quite well. At points it was almost painful to watch.

It's a shame as I really liked most everything else about the set but the blobs were the deal breaker.

So, learn to live with it or move on to another set. I'm waiting for the new Samsung DLPs before I purchase again.

To all of you who have had these "yellow blobs". Did you have then since day 1, or have they come in gradually?

To all of you who have had these "yellow blobs". Did you have then since day 1, or have they come in gradually?This IS "day 1" for my set. I just got it.

Yesterday, while I was watching the NBA finals, I could see this "blobbing" quite clearly. It more or less took away the fun out of HD! Somehow, you expect that perfect picture when you are watching HD, and here there are two big blue and yellow blobs showing up all over the screen. It sucks :D This monster is going back. :mad:

Is everyone who is experiencing the "blobbing" using the TV's speakers? I have never seen this effect on my TV and I disabled the speakers from the very beginning.

Is everyone who is experiencing the "blobbing" using the TV's speakers? I have never seen this effect on my TV and I disabled the speakers from the very beginning.I'm using the TV speakers but they should have no effect on the screen at all. In the first place, the set was designed with them to be where they are mounted. In addition, the degaussing that occurs every time you turn on the TV should realign everything, taking into account the fields of the (relatively small) speaker magnets.

Disabling the speaker would also have no effect. It's the fixed magnets in speakers that cause the problem, not operation of the speakers. You would have to physically remove the speakers from the cabinet to remove that effect and in the process you would probably CAUSE color blobs because the set is "expecting" those magnetic fields to be there.

As someone said earlier, the most likely cause of the blobs, in random locations throughout the screen (different places on different sets) is residual magnetism induced by storing the TV set near a large speaker in the Wal-Mart warehouse. But if that is the cause, and if the degaussing circuits are doing their job, the blobs should get weaker each time the TV is power-cycled until they disapper completely.

Mine are so faint that I have to be watching a B/W movie to see them, so I have no idea if they are going away or not.

INHD will be having their "tune up" show on June 11, 18 and 25 at 7:00AM EST I believe.

:) Awesome, I've got it set to record to my DVR. Thanks so much!

I'm using the TV speakers but they should have no effect on the screen at all. In the first place, the set was designed with them to be where they are mounted. In addition, the degaussing that occurs every time you turn on the TV should realign everything, taking into account the fields of the (relatively small) speaker magnets.

Disabling the speaker would also have no effect. It's the fixed magnets in speakers that cause the problem, not operation of the speakers. You would have to physically remove the speakers from the cabinet to remove that effect and in the process you would probably CAUSE color blobs because the set is "expecting" those magnetic fields to be there.

I understand what you are saying about the speaker magnets, but isn't it possible that the power that is put through the coils in the speakers during operation would create an additional electromagnetic field?

I understand what you are saying about the speaker magnets, but isn't it possible that the power that is put through the coils in the speakers during operation would create an additional electromagnetic field?The electromagnetic effect of speaker operation is "alternating current" compared to a permanent magnet. Degaussers are electromagnets that work by alternating N/S pole directions, thereby randomizing the magnetic field previously induced by a permanent magnet. If there is a detectable field in the speakers from the electromagnetic effect, it is more likely to degauss than to magnetize something nearby. I suppose that if you got a big enough electromagnet near the tube, it would distort the picture, but the distortion would not be a static blob, it would appear keep time to the music.

Just after I bought the ht30744 I called Sanyo to ask them a few questions that were not covered in the manual(mainly burn in potential), and anyways I asked them then if they have had alot of problems with this tv, and they said the main problem people were having is putting their unshielded speakers too close to the tv. Sanyo then told me that the ht30744 is more likely to experience problems from this then alot of other tv's. I didn't ask why, and I probably should have, but my center channel is shielded and I have no problems with this, so I didn't much care I suppose, but maybe someone else would know why this set is different than alot of others.

Mine's been in the top lefthand corner since day 1. No speakers anywhere near the TV.

My yellow blob has become a blue-green blob, but sometimes it disappears. Well, I guess it's still there, but so light that it's very difficult to detect. I can never see it unless I'm watching a B/W program and even then it only shows up on a white background.

I've decided I can live with it. There aren't that many B/W programs. But I do plan to do some experimentation with the placement of tuners in the stand below the TV. The closest box to the blob is my DirecTiVo, so I'll see if moving it to the other side of the stand has any effect on the situation.

fwiw, my philips had a similar color blob when i first got it. It would appear in the lower left corner after a few minutes of use. If I turned the set off and on again, it would disapper for the rest of that tv session, but would come back the next time i watched tv. After quite a few power cycles, the blob finally disappered for good.

My 30744 has a purple blob sometimes in the extreme lower left hand corner htat a power cycle will get rid of.

I have my PC hooked up to my HT30744 via a DVI-HDMI cable that I purchased off monoprice.com. I had it working beautifully for a few days, until recently, I've been getting these faint white horizontal flickers on the screen. Any bright scene looks gorgeous, but the horizontal lines show up most in the darker scenes. I was watching Star Wars and when they showed space and all the stars, it was horrible!
anyone get this same problem, and any possible solutions?

I have a Athlon XP 3000+, windows XP SP2, 512MB, NVIDIA GeForce4 MX 4000.

I purchased the 30" Sanyo from WalMart on clearance for $400. I love the TV, but I have the TILT problem. My entire screen slants about 1 inch from right downward to the left. It's really noticeable on ESPN b/c of the scrolling bottom line.

I tried accessing the service menu to fix the problem, but couldn't seem to straighten it out. I waded through about half the pages on this forum, but didn't see an answer. Did anyone ever get this problem solved, or am I taking this puppy back to Wal Mart???

Thanks in advance

I recently bought this TV to replace an older one that died.
The older TV had a fantastic picture for DirectTV feeds through the Tivo.

Without the Tivo they were better, but the Tivo didn't effect it all that much.

The day I got this TV and hooked it up the picture from the Tivo was noticably fuzzier and seems a bit grainier.
But the biggest problem seems to be the artifacts I see around all text and the "fuzzy-grain" in faces.

Is there anything I can do about this problem or is it just because I am using a HiDef TV with a regular signal?

I am assuming it is because it has less detail to work with?
anyway, I wish my old TV were working because the HiDef content on my cable system is nada.

any thoughts on making it better?

I have a HT30744 with a 8300HD from Cablevision. With my component cables, I would see banding, which from other posts, appeared to be due to the poor quality component jacks on the HT30744. I even tried a better cable - no difference.

Last week I purchased the 99 cent (+8.95 shipping) 6ft HDMI M/M cable from mashy76 on ebay as suggested, and it works great! No banding whatsoever, the picture is crystal clear, and the 5.1 audio is working great (now the Optical cable runs from the TV to my receiver, plus had to set Audio Output to HDMI). Thank you kevbeck for the cable suggestion!

I am not experiencing any of the HDCP errors that others are receiving, regardless of whether I turn the 8300HD or HT30744 on first. So if you have Cablevision, a HT30744 and a 8300HD, I recommend the HDMI cable from mashy76 on ebay.

I recorded to my 8300HD DVR the INHD Tune Up -- and it was great (Saturdays at 7:00 AM Eastern). However during the audio tune up portion, I noticed my subwoofer made no sound. I know it used to work when I had the optical cable hooked up from the 8300HD directly to the receiver, but it did not work with the optical cable hooked up from the HT30744 to the receiver. The other 5 speakers work fine. I then hooked the optical audio cable back to the 8300HD, changed the audio out setting from HDMI back to Dolby Digital, and the subwoofer works fine. Very odd...but at least it is working. Any one else experience this?

FOLLOW UP:

I contacted Sanyo (If you purchased your TV from Walmart and are in need of assistance, please call 800-877-5032 between the hours of 7:30 AM and 7:00 PM CST Monday thru Friday; 7:30 AM and 4:00 PM CST Saturday) and they were very helpful regarding my problem of the "tilted" screen. She said that the service menu would not fix this, but if I were to take it to my closest certified Sanyo repair shop they would fix it for me free of charge. It's about an hour away from where we live, so I'm trying to decide if it's worth it.... I'm almost certain it is considering I paid $400 for the TV and anything close to comparable on the market would be twice as much.....

She looked up my zip code and gave me the phone number of the service repairshop.

I purchased the 30" Sanyo from WalMart on clearance for $400. I love the TV, but I have the TILT problem. My entire screen slants about 1 inch from right downward to the left. It's really noticeable on ESPN b/c of the scrolling bottom line.

I tried accessing the service menu to fix the problem, but couldn't seem to straighten it out. I waded through about half the pages on this forum, but didn't see an answer. Did anyone ever get this problem solved, or am I taking this puppy back to Wal Mart???

Thanks in advance

Hi, lunoja

could you please tell me how to get in to SERVIC MENU?

Thanks!

Hi, lunoja

could you please tell me how to get in to SERVIC MENU?

Thanks!

Unplug TV, hold down volume down on the front of the set, plug in TV, hold down until you see the yellow letters across the screen. There are many posts on the service menu and how to use it properly throughout this topic. I'm a newbie......... :)

I used Powerstrip to change my computer's resolution to 1280x720p[DVI/HDCP derived] Is that the correct resolution I should be using for my Sanyo HT30744? My PC monitor does change to that resolution, but when I connect my PC to my Sanyo using a VGA to DVI adapter and a DVI to HDMI adapter connected to my ATI 9200, my TV gives me the "No Signal" Message.

Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

SpaceTraveler

Unplug TV, hold down volume down on the front of the set, plug in TV, hold down until you see the yellow letters across the screen. There are many posts on the service menu and how to use it properly throughout this topic. I'm a newbie......... :)


Thanks a lot!

Hi, lunoja

could you please tell me how to get in to SERVIC MENU?

Thanks!


Write down your presets before you do anything in the service menu!!! The values listed in the service manual are not the same as your presets. Each TV will have a different set of preset values so if you change it and want to change it back, noone will be able to tell you what it was. I use an excel spreadsheet and any time I mess with a value, I enter the old one in first.

My 32" Sanyo seems to have cured itself. I've had the set about ten days. The yellow blob was pretty obvious at first, then it weakened and became blue-green. I watched a B/W show tonight and there is no sign of discoloration anywhere on the screen. I guess the multiple degaussing cycles took care of it.

Whew! I was not looking forward to carrying 150 pounds back to Wal-Mart.

I have had the following problem with my 30in model. I have had for about 7 months .after it has been left off for awhile (more than an hour) when I turn it on has no picture I can hear the tube clicking on, but not picture but there is sound output. when I press the reset button the TV resests to defaults and then I get a picture.



any help would be appreciated

This may be a cross post but this thread seems a better place to start.

I have tracked down on the these 30" models, it is a little grubby and being sold as is by my local walmart, after some haggling I got it down to 500, anyone got some suggestions for leverage to get a better deal apart from old and discontinued. It is inventoried as a february model, is that good or bad ? I think the newer ones fixed some problems am I right ? There is no remote for the floor model, can you get them easily from Sanyo ?

Is the TILT issue with these as bad on the 28" replacement set ? Can you see the tilt on all channels, this one is being sold connected to a DVD player only, no HD content.

Blobs on B&W movies, is this something easy to check for prior to purchase ?

This may be a cross post but this thread seems a better place to start.

I have tracked down on the these 30" models, it is a little grubby and being sold as is by my local walmart, after some haggling I got it down to 500, anyone got some suggestions for leverage to get a better deal apart from old and discontinued. It is inventoried as a february model, is that good or bad ? I think the newer ones fixed some problems am I right?First I've heard of that.There is no remote for the floor model, can you get them easily from Sanyo ?Yes

Is the TILT issue with these as bad on the 28" replacement set ? Can you see the tilt on all channels, this one is being sold connected to a DVD player only, no HD content.

Blobs on B&W movies, is this something easy to check for prior to purchase ?If you can see the unit on display, you have the best of both worlds. Tilt will be obvious. Serious discoloration will also be obvious. If you like it, grab it.

Hey guys

I have decided to use my NVidia 5200 Card in my kids computer and purchase a new card for my HTPC.
I had serious problems getting the 5200 to work with this TV.

But even though I have read 90% of this and other threads, I can't get a handle
on what card would be best for this TV.

Can someone tell me what card worked for them "out of the box" and/or what
card is best for output to this TV?

Ideally, I want something that works immediately without much tweaking, maybe
a card that doesn't have much of a scan issue or that can be tweaked.

If you are using this TV and a HTPC can you just post what you have and how you
got it to work?
:)
Much appreciated.

I have returned this TV. I had a tilt issue and the warping on the sides was noticable to me on panned scenes in HD (barrel rolling?). Most of all though, it was just too small for me. I went with a 50" DLP set instead.

The warping on widescreen CRTs is just too much for people sometimes. I guess I lucked out with the tilt, when I look at a ticker or other straight lines across the TV, they look almost perfect. However, I'm a bit nervous because I'm moving the TV next week. Hopefully everything will stay perfect.

So does the warping (what I've been calling barrel roll) exist on pretty much every widescreen CRT?

So does the warping (what I've been calling barrel roll) exist on pretty much every widescreen CRT?

From what I understand every widescreen CRT will have some degree of barrel roll because of the nature of the image. When you set your DVD player to widescreen, the widescreen image is still transmitted in 4:3 but in a horizontally compressed format. When you set the TV to "FULL" mode, it stretches the image (particularly the edges where it is less likely to mess with the visual focal points of the picture) to fit the widescreen. You can see this effect if you set a standard 4:3 image on "FULL" and the images are noticably stretched horizontally.

HOWEVER, an image that is Tuned with the TV's internal HD tuner does not experience any barrel roll because it is not being stretched. Likewise, a 16:9 image broadcast in 4:3 (with the black bars on the top and bottom) will not have barrel roll when the TV is set to "ZOOM 2" because the image is only zoomed in rather than stretched. I believe that if you use an external HD tuner, the image is sent to the TV in 4:3 (horizontally compressed) and stretched to 16:9, so you will see the barrel roll (someone correct me on this if I'm wrong).

The best example of what is happening is this:

llllllllllllllllllll - 4:3 image
llllllllllllllllllll
l. l. l l l l l l l l l l l .l .l - Stretched to 16:9
l. l. l l l l l l l l l l l .l .l

From what I understand every widescreen CRT will have some degree of barrel roll because of the nature of the image. When you set your DVD player to widescreen, the widescreen image is still transmitted in 4:3 but in a horizontally compressed format. When you set the TV to "FULL" mode, it stretches the image (particularly the edges where it is less likely to mess with the visual focal points of the picture) to fit the widescreen. You can see this effect if you set a standard 4:3 image on "FULL" and the images are noticably stretched horizontally.

HOWEVER, an image that is Tuned with the TV's internal HD tuner does not experience any barrel roll because it is not being stretched. Likewise, a 16:9 image broadcast in 4:3 (with the black bars on the top and bottom) will not have barrel roll when the TV is set to "ZOOM 2" because the image is only zoomed in rather than stretched. I believe that if you use an external HD tuner, the image is sent to the TV in 4:3 (horizontally compressed) and stretched to 16:9, so you will see the barrel roll (someone correct me on this if I'm wrong).

U are wrong..when i had this tv i only used the internal tuner, and scence like a train going by, u can definatly notice it.

:confused: Hi, i'm a newbie, have the HT30744 on lay a way at the local wal-mart, is there any one here that have had this set more than 6-12 months, if so what type of problems, flaws, etc. have you had? Can they be corrected? In so many words is this set worth it? thank you for all replies....

..when i had this tv i only used the internal tuner, and scence like a train going by, u can definatly notice it.This is true for me too. I first noticed it on a train scene (PBS HD) which had many slow pans accross detailed landscapes... and once I identified it I saw it all the time on HD programs. I can't comment on DVD's exibiting this because I did not watch any during the short time I had this TV.


Another problem is that on 4:3 material, the image is drastically shifted to the left. There are numerous pincushion problems.I had these issues as well.

To be fair to Sanyo, the box itself was trashed when I bought it so perhaps that is the cause of the problems I had.

I can only pick up one HD channel and I haven't seen any trains yet. But, I hadn't noticed the barrel rolling on ER (the only HD show I watch). When I move in a week I'll get more channels. Sorry for the misinformation, I'll let you know what I think once I see some trains.

I'll let you know what I think once I see some trains. :) It is most noticable on slow pans, regardless of content. The higher detail in HD programs may just make it easier to spot. It was obvious on the NBA finals from the sky cam panning around.

:confused: Hi, i'm a newbie, have the HT30744 on lay a way at the local wal-mart, is there any one here that have had this set more than 6-12 months, if so what type of problems, flaws, etc. have you had? Can they be corrected? In so many words is this set worth it? thank you for all replies....


Ive had this set since christmas and i must say that the picture is faboulous! The only problem i really have is a little bit too much overscan but its not a big deal at all. I would say this tv is worth the purchase as the pq is really good especially on 1080i. It made most of the plasmas look like crap at sams when they were showing smart travels(a show on pbs hd) It just looked so much better on the sanyo

Hey guys

I have decided to use my NVidia 5200 Card in my kids computer and purchase a new card for my HTPC.
I had serious problems getting the 5200 to work with this TV.

But even though I have read 90% of this and other threads, I can't get a handle
on what card would be best for this TV.

Can someone tell me what card worked for them "out of the box" and/or what
card is best for output to this TV?

Ideally, I want something that works immediately without much tweaking, maybe
a card that doesn't have much of a scan issue or that can be tweaked.

If you are using this TV and a HTPC can you just post what you have and how you
got it to work?
:)
Much appreciated.

gormly2, did you see my response to your post on page 63 of this thread? It's got links to screenshots of my setup.

Thanks,
jawgee

:) It is most noticable on slow pans, regardless of content. The higher detail in HD programs may just make it easier to spot. It was obvious on the NBA finals from the sky cam panning around.

I did a digital add-on channel scan just for fun tonight and I picked up about 8 more HD channels! I wonder if the FCC let the broadcaster's boost their signal strength up or if its just a clear night? I'm about 60-80 miles from the HD antennas. Anyway, I got a good look at a pan across the Braves stadium and there it was, the barrel roll. But, I think the pic quality is still fantastic and I don't notice the barrel roll on anything but panning shots, so this one's still a keeper for me.

lucky you launch! I bet it has to do with the july 1st full power deadline

Anyone having trouble with fuzzy text? I've read through the thread - I'm having a problem with fuzzy text even with just viewing the input display in the upper right portion of the screen (i.e., HDMI, VIDEO1, etc...).

I went back to Wal-Mart and looked at the display model and the input display was crystal clear.

I really don't want to return this for obvious reasons.

Any advise would be appreciated.

I've noticed a very annoying horizontal jump on my HT32744. I see it mostly when watching a HD OTA signal in 16:9. The picture actually splits in half horizontally across the middle and the bottom half moves to the left and then back again. Now, this happens very quickly, and sometimes it's barely noticable, but other times it's flagrant. Anyone else have similar issues?

Took mine out of layaway last Friday and it's been giving me a great time in widescreen on Major League Baseball 2K5 on the XBox (S-Video). However, component looks decidedly less happy than I expected. I'm assuming it's due to what people have guessed to be bad shielding on the component inputs. My DVD player doesn't do HDMI, unfortunately. =/
Have there been any ideas on how to correct/improve the component in?
Also...is there any point in putting out progressive signals when it just gets output as interlaced?

For the 32" model, can anyone tell me if there is a video jack on the side of the TV that is easy to get at for plugging in digital cameras and stuff? In my Walmart the TV is on a shelf 10' high the only thing I can tell is there does not look like there are any front video jacks. The Sanyo website is not clear on this either. Thanks.

-- Scott

My 32" has no jacks of any kind on the sides or front of the cabinet.

My 32" has no jacks of any kind on the sides or front of the cabinet.

Thanks for the information.

-- Scott

Will pincushioning get worse/be aggravated by too strong of a signal coming in? Been redoing all the wire in the house with RG6 Quad and compression connectors, and I noticed when I plugged the new cable in, low on the splitter chain, there was serious convex pincushioning on some digital channels. More pronounced in light, of course. My contrast and brightness have been lowered from the defaults, naturally.

Hey guys,

It's been quite a while since I last visited this thread, so I thought I'd see if there's any progress. From what I gathered, there still is no fix for the horrid component video problem, which is to be expected. However, I was wondering if it was at all possible to tweak the geometry of this set? I ask because, we all know that the geometry of the Sanyo is terrible, and that many TVs can have their geometry problems fixed/tweaked via the service menu. I was wondering if the same would be true for the Sanyo 30HT744. For what it's worth, I took the advice of the other Sanyo owners in this thread, and used the TV's HDMI input for HDTV viewing. I tooked the DVI-enabled SA Explorer away from my Sony 36XBR800, and used it on my Sanyo via a DVI-to-HDMI cable, and it did clean up the picture significantly. The only real difference is that the HDMI picture is free of the problems that the component inputs on this set provide (ie no more interference). If anyone here has had any luck improving the geometry, please feel free to post. Thanks again.

The component video on my 30" Sanyo is perfectly fine. DVD over component looks great. Cable over component is OK (HD = great); snow will appear on bad or old video. If you get close enough to a regular TV, you can see the same snow clearly. The only problem I have is the minor barrel roll on the right side. One thing I did do to eliminate any interference......I plugged the TV into a surge suppressor/filter by itself (in an outlet by itself). I plugged all other AV equipment into a noise filtered/powered surge protector. No problems whatsoever. I still find it hard to believe that this TV was slightly over $550. I have the build with the built-in QAM tuner.

Speaking of the QAM tuner, does anyone have the kit they sent out to enable it? I'll gladly pay for shipping if someone is willing to send it and the software to me. We can pass it around to AVSForum readers :)

I'd appreciate it if someone could post pictures of the cable. That way, we all could hunt around for it and only need the software.The closest Sanyo tech place is 50 miles away and the hours they are open are the same that I work so nobody would be at home to get them to do it for me.

Hey everyone, sorry, but I jut can't read through this monster thread.

Since the 30" model is no more, I was wondering if the anyone here had the 28" model ( HT28745 ) that replaced it? I used to have the 30" but returned it because the barrelroll was very noticeable, can anyone verify if the 28" still has this problem? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

EDIT: Also, I forgot to ask, how are the inputs on this set? I was REALLY disappointed with the inputs of the 30" set, doubt it would be different, but worth asking

I think on the 28 it actually has less inputs because i dont think it has hdmi

Also, might as well throw it out there for the 32" users. Any barrel roll? How are the inputs on this set?

Also, might as well throw it out there for the 32" users. Any barrel roll? How are the inputs on this set?
I have had a 32" for over a year now, and there is no noticeble barrel roll. The inputs are fine by my eyes (I have a progressive scan dvd hooked up to one, and a 1080i myHD card hooked up).

I don't notice any issues at all. The DVD player has a bit of 'static' or grain up close (within 3 feet), but that is only evident because I am used to the great HD picture from the built in tuner and my HTPC. There is some overscan, but I haven't been bothered enough to even go into the service menu.

I would recomend the 32" for anyone.

Found one that was still around at a local Canadian Walmart. I'm really happy with it for the most part (OTA HD looks great!), but I'm really disappointed in the quality of DVDs. The upconversion to 1080i is really noticeable and often distracting. Some DVDs seem to be better than others. After watching several movies on my father's Toshiba 30" widescreen, I was expecting at least comparable quality with this one (partly from the relatively strong support it was getting here). But there really is no comparison.

I looked through this thread several weaks ago, but I simply don't have the time to go all the way through it again looking for an answer to my question. In fact I'm not sure it was asked previously.....

Anyway, I'm curious....does a DVD player which upconverts to 1080i looks significantly better on the Sanyo HT30744 than the upconversion that the TV itself is doing? Can anyone recommend any reasonably priced upconverting DVD players that they've used with this TV and noticed a difference?
Thanks. :)

I've been using my 32" for about 9 months now. No noticeable barrellroll, and I finally fixed overscan from my HTPC using the drivers from ATI.

I do have one issue, though: every once in awhile, the picture starts to...blur. It's hard to describe. It's like it smears the image across the screen. It happens on all inputs, and it doesn't seem to matter which input I'm using when it starts. I can't reproduce it, and I have to turn the unit off and unplug it to get rid of it. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I'm a bit worried, and would call Sanyo if I could reproduce the issue at all.

Guess this thread is kind of dead now, but I've got really huge concern regarding the poor DVD quality I mentioned a few posts earlier.

When I watch DVDs, I'm finding that in fast action scenes, scenes that are bright, and scenes where something happens suddenly (explosion etc.) that the screen jumps. Sometimes it's a bright line that starts from the top and quickly drops down to the center of the screen before disappearing. At other times, the screen just goes black for an instant and then continues normally.

This is driving me nuts! I'm using a Zenith DVD player (not progresive scan) through component. After reading this thread, I assumed that my non-progressive player would be fine because the TV upconverts everything anyway to 1080i. And I see none of this effect when watching HD broadcasts or standard def TV.

Would a DVD player that upconverts to 1080i and is hooked through HDMI solve this problem, or is it something inherently wrong with the TV? I can't really afford to get an upconverting player right now, but if I know that it would solve the problem, I might splurge for it.

Any help is appreciated. thanks. :)

That sounds very odd. I haven't seen anything like that. I assume you have the 30"? Also, the TV does 480p natively (correct me if I am wrong), so progressive would be displayed and not upconverted to 1080i.

have a MyHD MDP-130 tuner card in my HTPC that also plays DVD's. I have it output a fixed 1080i so the card is doing an upconvert. I don't think it has all the upconverting features of a STB upconverting dvd player, but I know DVD's look awesome coming out of it in 1080i. This is especially true of CGI movies like the incredibles, etc.

If you notice it again, try and rewind and see if it is repeatable. Then post the DVD and the timestamp of where it happened, and we can try it on our tv (if we have the same dvd). It also might be worth it to borrow a buddy's dvd player and see if it happens on another brand of dvd player.

just some thoughts.

Guess this thread is kind of dead now, but I've got really huge concern regarding the poor DVD quality I mentioned a few posts earlier.

When I watch DVDs, I'm finding that in fast action scenes, scenes that are bright, and scenes where something happens suddenly (explosion etc.) that the screen jumps. Sometimes it's a bright line that starts from the top and quickly drops down to the center of the screen before disappearing. At other times, the screen just goes black for an instant and then continues normally.

This is driving me nuts! I'm using a Zenith DVD player (not progresive scan) through component. After reading this thread, I assumed that my non-progressive player would be fine because the TV upconverts everything anyway to 1080i. And I see none of this effect when watching HD broadcasts or standard def TV.

Would a DVD player that upconverts to 1080i and is hooked through HDMI solve this problem, or is it something inherently wrong with the TV? I can't really afford to get an upconverting player right now, but if I know that it would solve the problem, I might splurge for it.

Any help is appreciated. thanks. :)

It is indeed the 30" version.

I should probably also mention that it happens most often when it cuts directly from a bright shot to a darker shot. It always happens on on the cut between shots; haven't noticed any problems within each shot, even when the brightness shifts dramatically.

I bought the 32" Model in December, and for the most part am hyper pleased with it... but I have noticed two (related) things and they concern me...

1. Most of the time I am watching cable from a Moxi cable tuner with the signal coming over composite cables... As near as I can tell, the cables are fine... HD Net looks plain beautiful...

However, I will sometimes notices a green glob on the right side of my screen... it is a discoloration exactlly like what might be caused by a speaker too close to the screen... However, my speakers are all shielded and well away from the tube... moreover, this phenom will come and go of its own accord...

It seems that it appears sometimes when there is a large field of static white (or light color) on the right side of the screen, but this might just be the fact that the discoloration is more visible on an even, combined signal (white or similar)...

2. More recently, I had the whole screen drop one of its colors (again, it took on a green tint, as if the red was failing)... as soon as I touched the cables in the back, it went away... this has happened a few more times...

Any thoughts? Is there away to degauss this TV? Am I doing anything wrong?

Thanks
-AA
a_akes@yahoo.com

Hey everyone, I'm new to the world of hdtv and sanyo's TV, I basically have been picking up a few things as I read up on the web, manuals and this thread. Anyway I found this read reading stuff on the internet and looking for a cheap hdtv. Long story short 3 days ago I came across a HT30744 on clearance at walmart for 547. So I took the plunge, I had to send my wife to pay for the box and told her to not get it if it looked open. Well she didn't listen and brought it back anyway, so while lugging it up 2 flights of stairs I was concern about lugging the behemoth back downstairs :D Anyway I opened it up and was clearly used by the way it was packaged (broken styrofoam and etc) the the tv itself looked flawless, clean as a whistle no dust or nothing just packaged poorly.

So I decided to give it a go. I picked up a terk T5 antenna, and some GE composite cables from circuit city AV23322 for 17 bucks. I have no idea if they are worth it or not so please let me know. Anyway I get about 5 channels(14 counting the multicast ones) but it's pretty much the same stations I would get analog in my area except WB(living in Universal city right outside San Antonio) which had a bad analog signal as well and pbx which I can live without. Now I was curious about things to check out for the TV I hooked up a cheap akai dvd player component and initially I had a red tinted screen. I felt a sense of dread but didn't panic and turned everything off and reset the cables, and boom good picture quality. I then after that scare remember all the talk of bad geometry so I scanned that and all I noticed was in each corner, I forgot the jargon for it but it's very minor curved in. Well not really curved but it goes inward a little, but I didn't notice any snow or blobs of spots anywhere on the screen I have done short and extended viewing.

The only visual anamoly was during the incredibles dvd I saw some red and green( stripes (banding) faint but noticeably if your looking for them(and I was). But I think this was because of the cables as they didn't fit to snug into the dvd player, and also because of the red screen thing. The channels themselves soley depend on signal strength, and the original source broadcasted. Shows broadcasted ota in hd look best when it says 1920*1080(60)i, but not to bad at the other settings either. I'm trying to test as many of the connections on the TV as possible to make sure they all work. But outside of tha I don't know what to look for to make sure I have a decent set, it looks ok to me so far. But I'm looking for any and all insight you guys could give me as I am all new to this. Thanks again and wow what you guys said is true once you go hdtv you never go back. :)

Guess this thread is kind of dead now, but I've got really huge concern regarding the poor DVD quality I mentioned a few posts earlier.

When I watch DVDs, I'm finding that in fast action scenes, scenes that are bright, and scenes where something happens suddenly (explosion etc.) that the screen jumps. Sometimes it's a bright line that starts from the top and quickly drops down to the center of the screen before disappearing. At other times, the screen just goes black for an instant and then continues normally.

This is driving me nuts! I'm using a Zenith DVD player (not progresive scan) through component. After reading this thread, I assumed that my non-progressive player would be fine because the TV upconverts everything anyway to 1080i. And I see none of this effect when watching HD broadcasts or standard def TV.

Would a DVD player that upconverts to 1080i and is hooked through HDMI solve this problem, or is it something inherently wrong with the TV? I can't really afford to get an upconverting player right now, but if I know that it would solve the problem, I might splurge for it.

Any help is appreciated. thanks.

I noticed DVD quality was poor as well. I think a lot of it has to do with poor Component video jacks on the Television. Until more DVD players have HDMI, I'd recommend switching back to SVideo. Yeah, I know it sounds stupid. But I unplugged my components and plugged back in the old Svideo cable and the picture is drastically better. I'll live with that until I get a DVD player with HDMI, then I'll go that route.

I do have one issue, though: every once in awhile, the picture starts to...blur. It's hard to describe. It's like it smears the image across the screen. It happens on all inputs, and it doesn't seem to matter which input I'm using when it starts. I can't reproduce it, and I have to turn the unit off and unplug it to get rid of it. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I'm a bit worried, and would call Sanyo if I could reproduce the issue at all.

I think you should lay off the booze.... :D

Here's an update for those of you who have been about to bust with anticipation waiting to see how my move went. After 120 miles in the back of the UHAUL, the TV still works great. I receive more HD channels since I'm in the city now and they look fantastic. No PBS though :( .

I'm definitely going to have to borrow a friend's DVD player for a day, because when I tried to route the DVD player through s-video I got nothing. It's a good cable (Monster s-video) so I can't explain it. Either the input on the TV is messed up or the output on my DVD player. Right now, I'm suspecting it's the player.

I really don't want to have to return this. I just saw that Samsung upconverting HDMI DVD player for $179 Canadian with an HDMI cable, so I'm VERY tempted. But my girlfriend is gonna kill me because the costs just keep mounting on this thing.

"We have to buy a seperate component cable?"
"We have to buy an antenna?"
"We have to buy a BRAND NEW DVD PLAYER?"

Wish me luck everyone. :)

^ Was it set on progressive output when you had it in components? If so, I don't think you'll get a picture through s-video. Make sure output is interlaced before you switch to s-video. I guess it really depends on the DVD player for picture quality. I just got a Pioneer DV-578A-S player and it looks great. Sure there's a little noise here and there on the picture when it's darker, but definitely not as bad as PS2 or my Time Warner box. I've tried Samsung and Sanyo players on this set with no problems. Upconverting DVD players aren't worth it to me... you aren't going to get much of a better picture because of the size of the set and the 720x480 resolution of DVDs. You'll just get rid of the noise from the component jacks if you have it. I'd wait for HD DVD players if you want a player with HDMI, but that's just my opinion.

Seriously, just wait for the playstation 3 to use your HDMI connector - I'm sure Sony will have some HD movies available at launch with the Blu Ray format then.

is the unit ota chip and the hdmi in mpge 2 OR mpeg 4 ? what about th rest ?

sorry if my question is stupid, but i am a moron when it comes to this stuff

Mpeg2

Hi,

I purchased a Sanyo HT32744 from Wal-Mart in March 2005. Been very happy until several days ago it began showing severe discoloration upon power-on. Sometimes it would correct itself but most of the time it stays discolored. There are no non-service menu changes that help. It's not a speaker issue and I have not touched my entire setup in months.

If I return it to Wal-Mart w/ my receipt, what's the policy for returns and exchanges? If they do not have a HT32744 in stock, how do they determine what my replacement will be? Does it need to be another Sanyo and do I have any say on what the replacement TV can be? I'm thinking of getting a bigger display and am willing to pay the difference.

Thanks,
wjspm

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/prod_info.gsp?product_id=2601424&cat=107530&type=19&dept=3944&path=0%3A3944%3A133276%3A3996%3A107530#6

Hi,

If I return it to Wal-Mart w/ my receipt, what's the policy for returns and exchanges? If they do not have a HT32744 in stock, how do they determine what my replacement will be? Does it need to be another Sanyo and do I have any say on what the replacement TV can be? I'm thinking of getting a bigger display and am willing to pay the difference.


That's the beauty of the Wal-Mart thing: it's not only a one year warranty with exchange through Wal-mart, it's also a one-year return policy as long as you have the original receipt.

That's right: even if you decide you just don't want it anymore, that's fine. Take it back and get your money back.

Me, I'm hoping they'll come out with a model that takes cable card. I'll definitely exchange for that one. But if mine just suddenly died like yours, I'd take it back, get my money back, then do a completely different transaction and buy a new one with an all-new one year return policy.

I finally got a DVD player that upscales to 1080i via HDMI. I plugged the player into my Sanyo TV and had problems with the signal freezing, then when I tried to change the input to component or to the tuner nothing. The TV would just stay on the frozen HDMI signal. I would sometimes get video from the DVD player but the big blue "No Signal" sign would pop up, and stay there. Again I had to power off the TV to get it working correctly again.

I called the customer support number for Wal-mart purchases on Sanyo's website. The rep said "I think it's the TV here talk to Dan." Kind of funny, like I was suppose to know who Dan was.

Well Dan seemed to know what he was talking about. He said they did have problems with the HDMI input on about 20% of the sets. He said they would gladly refund my purchase price if I returned the TV. I asked if that was the reason the new sets don't have HDMI. He said "Yes" apparently the had trouble getting the HDMI working 100% with various different brands of DVD players and cable boxes. That's the reason HDMI was left off of the newest TV sets. He said he was very sorry for the problem. If I needed HDMI return the TV and buy something different, otherwise he suggested using component only.

I called a local Wal-mart and they have several in stock. Since I have the receipt they will exchange it no problem.

I finally got a DVD player that upscales to 1080i via HDMI. I plugged the player into my Sanyo TV and had problems with the signal freezing, then when I tried to change the input to component or to the tuner nothing. The TV would just stay on the frozen HDMI signal. I would sometimes get video from the DVD player but the big blue "No Signal" sign would pop up, and stay there. Again I had to power off the TV to get it working correctly again.

I called the customer support number for Wal-mart purchases on Sanyo's website. The rep said "I think it's the TV here talk to Dan." Kind of funny, like I was suppose to know who Dan was.

Well Dan seemed to know what he was talking about. He said they did have problems with the HDMI input on about 20% of the sets. He said they would gladly refund my purchase price if I returned the TV. I asked if that was the reason the new sets don't have HDMI. He said "Yes" apparently the had trouble getting the HDMI working 100% with various different brands of DVD players and cable boxes. That's the reason HDMI was left off of the newest TV sets. He said he was very sorry for the problem. If I needed HDMI return the TV and buy something different, otherwise he suggested using component only.

I called a local Wal-mart and they have several in stock. Since I have the receipt they will exchange it no problem.



Care to share what upscaling DVD you purchased? It would help that people know which DVD player to avoid if they have this TV.

That's the beauty of the Wal-Mart thing: it's not only a one year warranty with exchange through Wal-mart, it's also a one-year return policy as long as you have the original receipt.

This is not accurate. The Sanyo policy through Walmart allows a 1 year exchange only. One's return period ends after 90 days, which is the same for most all other items sold at Walmart. The 1 year deal with Sanyo is a special agreement between Walmart and Sanyo. This allows you to recieve a new Sanyo set after the 90 days instead of Sanyo repairing your set.

Speaking of the QAM tuner, does anyone have the kit they sent out to enable it? I'll gladly pay for shipping if someone is willing to send it and the software to me. We can pass it around to AVSForum readers :)



Hey guys, it's been a while since I've posted about this TV, a lot has happened since my last post (about the colored noise, lag, and broken analog tuner).

Shink, what I did today was I called Sanyo at 800-877-5032, told the representative that I wanted to enable my QAM tuner, and he promptly transferred me to "someone who would better be able to help me". This gentleman immediately offered to send me their kit and took down my information and said he'd have it out to me in a few days.

I suggest just calling Sanyo and doing the same as it will be free and the phonecall took about 3 minutes tops.

I could probably send you the cable/software if you wanted to wait for me to get it/upgrade the firmware/send it out to you and pay shipping, but it would probably be easier to call Sanyo, they seemed to have no problem whatsoever offering to do this for me.

____________________________________________________________


As for the 32 inch set: I brought back my old one to WalMart because the analog tuner died out. Luckily they had one of the newer made models (sometime in 05, I'll have to check the specific month), and, good news everyone.

Besides having the QAM tuner disabled, ALL OF THE INPUTS ARE FIXED FROM THE HORRIBLE NOISE, INCLUDING THE COMPONENT JACKS.

Unfortunately mine had HORRIBLE geometry problems so I spent about 5 hours in the service menu trying to fix it. It is now totally watchable and I'm pretty much the only one who notices the slight geometry flaws I couldn't get worked out.

As soon as I get the kit to enable the QAM tuner I will be extremely happy with this tv.

Also gone was the "lag" I was describing while playing video games. I can now safely kick off in Madden and NCAA without having to press the button a quarter second or so early.


Basically, if anyone with the older model (made in '04) is not happy with their (particularly component) inputs and can find a reason to exchange it at Wal-Mart for one made in 2005, you should do it. All you have to do is call Sanyo to get your QAM tuner enabled.

I didn't know the tuner had to be "enabled"! I'm considering purchasing this tv.

Thanks Probly - I'll give them a call tomorrow.

I can also vouch for a new V5xxx serial number set having no input problems at all, nor do I have any sync issues with Playstation 2.

I didn't know the tuner had to be "enabled"! I'm considering purchasing this tv.
It is only the QAM (Digital Cable) tuner that needs to be enabled, and only in the later models.

The Over the air tuner is ready, right out of the box.

Care to share what upscaling DVD you purchased? It would help that people know which DVD player to avoid if they have this TV.

Sure, it the el cheapo Cyberhome DVD 655. A friend purchased it from Wal-mart. He didn't really need it (no HDTV) he offered it to me in trade for some spare PC parts. I'm not sure I would have spent real money on it. Funny thing is after I went to the trouble of returning the TV I found out this DVD player has a "hidden menu" to enable upscaling via component.

HDMI is working fine on the new set, so I'm happy.

I'm still working my way through this and the other 66 page thread (*sigh*), but was wondering what the story on the current availability of this unit at Walmart (or other brick and mortars)?

Is it just hit and miss as to whether your local walmart still has them? or is there a new revision/model of this HDTV forthcoming?

Is there a comprable model for non-walmart stores?

Thanks!

rampy

Yeah it seems like it's hit and miss as to whether or not you'll find one at your local store. The new version of this is the 28" which only has component inputs rather than components and HDMI. I think Sanyo only sells at Sam's/Walmart, but I could be wrong. Something comparable would be the Philips 30PW9110D, which is a little more than $100 more than this TV.

I just picked up a HT32744 at Wal-Mart for $360 without remote. It was made early last year and looks like it had been on the floor for quite a while but it was hard to pass up at that price.

The only real problems I'm having are due to geometry. The Horizontal Linearity is horrible and is causing the barrel roll so many seem to experience. It happens at any resolution at the full setting – even when getting a proper 1080i signal (i.e. PBS-HD). If you put a test pattern on the screen the with of the squares in the center are ok but the squares on the outer 2 inches of the screen get very skinny. In the service menu I was able to find an adjustment for Vertical Linearity (which is already ok) but I can't find an adjustment for Horizontal Linearity (which needs serious adjustment). Does anyone know if there is one and what it is called?

The other problem is with a downward bend in the image. It is like someone sat on the top and it bends in a downward arch. Kind of like an up/down pincushion adjustment. Anyone know if one exists and what it is called?

This TV was a great buy but if I can't fix this I don't know if it is worth keeping.

Thanks in advance to anyone who may have answers.

I just picked up a HT32744 at Wal-Mart for $360 without remote.

I know there was another user with this tv that bought the demo without the remote and he called sanyo to order one and they sent him one for free. Worth a try.

-Ryan

OK guys, I got my QAM tuner enabling kit in the mail today.

It's pretty basic, just a firmware upgrade that is run through a serial port to what appears to be a stereo-mini-jack plug.

The serial connector obviously goes into one of your COM ports and the mini-jack connector goes into the input which is directly below the Digital RF input.

All you do is turn off the TV, hook up the cable, load the program, select your com port, select the new firmware, then turn the TV on and it will begin uploading it.

Presto, the QAM tuner is enabled again :-)

I can post pictures of the cable if anyone wants to attempt to make their own. I can also post the firmware/updating program too.

Sanyo requested that I send the kit back to them and has included a return stamp with their address and postage paid for already so I won't be able to forward the whole kit to anyone.

I Found IT!

After looking for a couple of hours on the net, I found the .pdf service manual for the Sanyo HT30744!

It's very technical, but it explains the 2 most important things to improve this HDTV! How to adjust horizontal/vertical position/size and pinchushion correction.

WHY don't they just put these functions on the standard menu???? It's not like they can't put a reset button there for the stupid person who messes it all up!

Anyway, I won't give the link to the .pdf for fear it may cause a stampeed. Does anyone have a spot it can stay at and be linked to without being overwhelmed by high traffic?

Here are the most important things in it:
Access service menu: Unplug TV, hold down volume (-), plug in. Use Channel +/- for item No. / Vol +/- for adjusting the setting.
Horz. Centering: 11E
Horz. Width: 119
Vert. Size: 116
Vert. Centering: 117

Pincushion Correction:
Pin AMP: 11A
Pin Phase: 11D
AFC Bow: 11F
AFC Angle: 120
Upper Corner Pin: 11B
Lower Corner Pin: 11C

The pincushion adjustment terms are cryptic. Just play with them. I used the THX optimizer found on Star Wars I (it's on most THX Cert. DVD's) to help show me a grid line and the edge of the display. It fixed the only thing I didn't like about this awsome HDTV!

I grabbed a 'leftover 32" at my local Walmart 3 days ago for $599, as far as I can tell it was 'new in the box' but it's an early production set, made in June 2004. The good news is the basic geometry of the set seems perfect: no tilting, once set manually not to overdrive everything all the geometry seems damn good.

The QAM is live, not that it does me any good, local cable here has all of ONE (PBS) unscrambled HD channel right now...

I see no noise issues with the Component Inputs, but then I don't game...

TWO issues.. BOTH it seems connected to the current HD/DVR box TimeWarner seems to be using: Motorola DTC 6412:

1. The Sanyo is unable to connect to it's HDMI input to the DVI output of the Motorola box...I know the Sanyo HDMI input seems to be 'picky' anyone else seen this ?

2. The Sanyo Remote ALSO seems unable to be set for this Motorola box.. I suspect the correct code is the LAST one mentioned in the Sanyo manual (323) but the Sanyo Remote refuses to accept 323 as a valid code, even though it's right in their manual... discussions with "Jim Boggan" at Sanyo support resulted in "sorry we're kinda disinterested in both these issues" answers and suggestions I take it back and get a refund.

3. I have the Service Manual for the 30744.. did anyone EVER figure out the relevant settings to readjust the 3 presets (News, Sports, Movies) to settings that would actually be useful ?

Neither issue is a deal breaker for me... wondering if anyone has found workarounds... I'm even gonna deal with the fact that Pic & Pic is essentially useless here since we will NEVER have any HD signals over the air (hell we pretty much have no decent Standard signals here) and as I said, we currently have all of one HD unscrambled channel on the Cable...

The DVI output on the box may not be turned on. Go through the boxes menu and see if you need to turn it on.

1. Been thru all the limited menus on the this Motorola Box (including the Service ones accessed via holding down Menu while cycling the box on) and there is no option to control the DVI output... I've tried the box set to 1080i and 720p.. no significant diff I can see via Component inputs...not that they are bad.. mind you, I'm not seeing the noise issues many seem to have had...

AND

2. Thinking this might be an issue I swapped boxes and at the Time Warner head end they verified this box, I saw it attached to a Panasonic HDTV they had there using my own DVI to HDMI cable and the HDMI input worked...

SIGH

Having had a lot of problems with this TV when using my older DVD player (see earlier posts), I broke down and bought a new player. I picked up the Samsung HD850 upconverting DVD player, and it looks fantastic. In terms of PQ, I'd highly recommend it, despite some of the negative comments it has had on the forum. Even the component inputs look passable, so all the inputs on my Sanyo seem to be working fine....

....except I'm having a bit of a tricky issue with my audio. It's not really too big of an issue, but it is a little puzzling. I'm running my audio through the HDMI cable to my TV and then out to my stereo with composite (?) RCA cables. My stereo is a bit older, so these are the only inputs it will take...and after all these other purchases, it'll be a while before I can go buy a new receiver.

The sound will work fine, but then when I change discs it suddenly has disappeared. I'v found that it comes back on ONLY when I do the following:

1) Leave the DVD player on.
2) Turn off my stereo.
3) Turn off the TV.
4) Turn the stereo back on.
5) Turn the TV back on.

I get the sound back when I do this and I have absolutely no idea why. But as long as it keeps working for me, I'm fine with it. I'm not going to be changing discs all that often in one sitting.

I'm thinking it might be the cheaper HDMI cable that came with the player. Or maybe it's because I'm sending the audio signal through the TV. Anyone else experience any similar audio weirdness?

I've been using my 32" for about 9 months now. No noticeable barrellroll, and I finally fixed overscan from my HTPC using the drivers from ATI.

I do have one issue, though: every once in awhile, the picture starts to...blur. It's hard to describe. It's like it smears the image across the screen. It happens on all inputs, and it doesn't seem to matter which input I'm using when it starts. I can't reproduce it, and I have to turn the unit off and unplug it to get rid of it. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I'm a bit worried, and would call Sanyo if I could reproduce the issue at all.

After having this again last night, I called Sanyo. They said that it was not a common problem at all, and to return it to WalMart to get a new one. I have one concern, though: there's no HDMI input on the newer sets? That's how I have my HTPC hooked up....:(

The 32744 I bought a couple weeks ago has HDMI. Not sure what you heard...

32744 is not a newer set.

If you are willing to go smaller, Target has a Samsung 26" widescreen with integrated ATSC tuner and DVI input for $499.

<quote>
I Found IT!

After looking for a couple of hours on the net, I found the .pdf service manual for the Sanyo HT30744!

It's very technical, but it explains the 2 most important things to improve this HDTV! How to adjust horizontal/vertical position/size and pinchushion correction.

WHY don't they just put these functions on the standard menu???? It's not like they can't put a reset button there for the stupid person who messes it all up!

Anyway, I won't give the link to the .pdf for fear it may cause a stampeed. Does anyone have a spot it can stay at and be linked to without being overwhelmed by high traffic?

Here are the most important things in it:
Access service menu: Unplug TV, hold down volume (-), plug in. Use Channel +/- for item No. / Vol +/- for adjusting the setting.
Horz. Centering: 11E
Horz. Width: 119
Vert. Size: 116
Vert. Centering: 117

Pincushion Correction:
Pin AMP: 11A
Pin Phase: 11D
AFC Bow: 11F
AFC Angle: 120
Upper Corner Pin: 11B
Lower Corner Pin: 11C

The pincushion adjustment terms are cryptic. Just play with them. I used the THX optimizer found on Star Wars I (it's on most THX Cert. DVD's) to help show me a grid line and the edge of the display. It fixed the only thing I didn't like about this awsome HDTV!
</quote>


Uh, I don't know if you're referencing my copy of the Sanyo HT307444 service manual, but please feel free to distribute it as you see fit. It's been on my site since the original thread, and it's nice to see how many people still look at it :)
hinome-net/images/sanyo.pdf

(sorry, apparently I can't link stuff until i have 5 posts... so the- is a .)

Hey guys, I just got a store display Sanyo HT30744 from Wal-Mart for $260. I am really happy with my purchase thus far.

The only "bad" thing that I've noticed with this TV is when I am playing Halo 2 on the level Ritual. When I walk to the spot where the plasma sword is, my right speaker will make a weird muffled sound of sorts. I thought the speaker was blown at first. I switched my audio options on the Xbox to Dolby Surround and it has made the noise almost unnoticeable.

Is there any true fix for that, and should I worry about it? I haven't heard the noise while playing any of my other games or in any of my movies.

Thanks for your time

32744 is not a newer set.

Ummmmm......it sure is.

Ummmm .... I'm sure it's not. The first post of this thread is almost a year old.

As a matter of fact, a link in the post began in April '04.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=395229&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

But it's current, and that's what's important.

<quote>
I Found IT!

After looking for a couple of hours on the net, I found the .pdf service manual for the Sanyo HT30744!

It's very technical, but it explains the 2 most important things to improve this HDTV! How to adjust horizontal/vertical position/size and pinchushion correction.

WHY don't they just put these functions on the standard menu???? It's not like they can't put a reset button there for the stupid person who messes it all up!

Anyway, I won't give the link to the .pdf for fear it may cause a stampeed. Does anyone have a spot it can stay at and be linked to without being overwhelmed by high traffic?

Here are the most important things in it:
Access service menu: Unplug TV, hold down volume (-), plug in. Use Channel +/- for item No. / Vol +/- for adjusting the setting.
Horz. Centering: 11E
Horz. Width: 119
Vert. Size: 116
Vert. Centering: 117

Pincushion Correction:
Pin AMP: 11A
Pin Phase: 11D
AFC Bow: 11F
AFC Angle: 120
Upper Corner Pin: 11B
Lower Corner Pin: 11C

The pincushion adjustment terms are cryptic. Just play with them. I used the THX optimizer found on Star Wars I (it's on most THX Cert. DVD's) to help show me a grid line and the edge of the display. It fixed the only thing I didn't like about this awsome HDTV!
</quote>


Uh, I don't know if you're referencing my copy of the Sanyo HT307444 service manual, but please feel free to distribute it as you see fit. It's been on my site since the original thread, and it's nice to see how many people still look at it :)
hinome-net/images/sanyo.pdf

(sorry, apparently I can't link stuff until i have 5 posts... so the- is a .)



Fireye, thanks for the info. I just have one questions. The settings you posted, are they the optimal settings, or just the defaults. What settings worked well for you? Thanks in advance.

[QUOTE=Ratman]Ummmm .... I'm sure it's not. The first post of this thread is almost a year old.


Ratman,

I agree with you totally. I went to a Walmart recently to put a 32744 on layaway. I've had another TV, the 30744 on layaway once and had to take it out cos of $$ problems. Anyway while there I asked the associate if he had a 32744 in stock and they said "No we don't right now. That is a new item and we haven't had many in stock." I didn't want to argue with the guy because I have been watching and wanting either the 30744 or 32744 for quite some time now..like over a year, so I know the 32744 is not a new item.

After having this again last night, I called Sanyo. They said that it was not a common problem at all, and to return it to WalMart to get a new one. I have one concern, though: there's no HDMI input on the newer sets? That's how I have my HTPC hooked up....:(

The 32744 I bought a couple weeks ago has HDMI. Not sure what you heard...

What ECEC stated is quite correct. The NEWER sets don't have HDMI. The OLDER sets end with 4 and the newer sets end with 5. If you go to http://www.sanyo.com/entertainment/televisions/digital/ the older "4" sets were listed there in 2004. Now that I'm the fourth person to tell you that the 32744 isn't a newer set, stop and ask yourself if you are looking at things differently than everyone else.

What ECEC stated is quite correct. The NEWER sets don't have HDMI. The OLDER sets end with 4 and the newer sets end with 5. If you go to http://www.sanyo.com/entertainment/televisions/digital/ the older "4" sets were listed there in 2004. Now that I'm the fourth person to tell you that the 32744 isn't a newer set, stop and ask yourself if you are looking at things differently than everyone else.Amazingly incorrect!!!

The "new 32744 sets" (built in 2005) do not have a serial number ending in "5." They have serial numbers starting witn "V5." Mine starts with V5, was made in April, 2005, and IT DOES HAVE AN HDMI INPUT.

The change with the V5 series was in firmware related to the digital cable inputs. The page you referenced clearly states that the 32744 does have HDMI input.

Amazingly incorrect!!!

The "new 32744 sets" (built in 2005) do not have a serial number ending in "5." They have serial numbers starting witn "V5." Mine starts with V5, was made in April, 2005, and IT DOES HAVE AN HDMI INPUT.

The change with the V5 series was in firmware related to the digital cable inputs. The page you referenced clearly states that the 32744 does have HDMI input.

All MODEL NUMBERS that end in 4 have HDMI. All MODEL NUMBERS that end in 5 (HT28745, HT27745) do NOT have HDMI. ECEC's comment was about newer models not having HDMI and had nothing at all to do with serial numbers which didn't change the connections available on the model. The 32744 set is current, still in production, but it is NOT a "new model".

Amazingly accurate! ;)

Hey guys, I just got a store display Sanyo HT30744 from Wal-Mart for $260. I am really happy with my purchase thus far.

The only "bad" thing that I've noticed with this TV is when I am playing Halo 2 on the level Ritual. When I walk to the spot where the plasma sword is, my right speaker will make a weird muffled sound of sorts. I thought the speaker was blown at first. I switched my audio options on the Xbox to Dolby Surround and it has made the noise almost unnoticeable.

Is there any true fix for that, and should I worry about it? I haven't heard the noise while playing any of my other games or in any of my movies.

Thanks for your time

I ment the map I play on is called Relic, not Ritual. Do you guys have any tips on how to fix the problem?

Trying to find the service manual for the 32" set. Can anybody that has a link please either post it or PM me with it? TIA
Silvertip

http://www.calweb.com/~bhenley/HT32744SM.zip is the SM for the 32744 that was emailed to me by support@sanyotv.com. You can just email them and ask for a copy. It will be at the above URL (note that HT32744SM.zip is case sensitive) for a week or two.
If you have the newer firmware, there may be some differences. They didn't have the .pdf for that version available when I asked back in March but might now.

The HT32744 may still be "technically" current, but if you contact Sanyo about any issues, the response you get is that they will NOT deal with any issues or defects with this model and you should return it for a refund if you don't like anything about it. My impression is that it's also 'out of production' no matter what the sites currently say.

As I posted above in # 1982, the HDMI input is completely unable to connect with some DVI outputs, like the Motorola DTC 6412 which is, unfortunately, the HD cable box Time Warner currently uses. The Remote is also unable to accept any Motorola code that allows it to operate with that cable box either.

Fortunately, my particular set's component inputs don't seem to have the problems many have had and my geometry is very good so I'm keeping my set... (June 2004 production, but a new leftover in a box I found a week ago locally).

I'll ask once more:

Has ANYONE figured out the codes used to set the News, Movie and Sports presets, which are all useless since everything is overdriven... it would be nice to be able to use something besides the Manual setting....

Woah, my one wee little question about HDMI caused all sorts of confusion. Sorry about that, but I'm glad you guys cleared it up.

So I returned the TV to WallyWorld last night. I got another 32744, and it worked great out of the box. HDMI input even seems clearer than the unit I had before, but that could be imaginary.

Thanks for the service manual!

First, I want to say thanks to everyone that contributes to this thread. You've made my purchase and set-up of this TV SO much easier. Hopefully I can start using what I've learned to finally start helping others out.

So...I've downloaded the service manual and I'm planning on making some adjustments to correct the pincushion problem these TVs all seem to have. I'm a little scared that I'm going to mess up my TV if I do it. I'm going to write down all of my settings before I start playing just in case. Anybody have any advice?

Also, in the manual, it says to run your source through the analog antenna in. I'm going to use my DVD player with the THX optimizer on Star Wars, but the only way I can connect my player is component, HDMI or s-video. Will this be okay, or does it HAVE to be the analog in?

To the people who have played with the service menu on the 30-inch model, what were the optimal settings for you, as far as correcting the pincushioning, etc.


Also, I asked this before, but are the settings that Fireye posted the optimal settings for him, or the defaults? Thanks again.