The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread [Text View] - Page 10

jemaerca

04-28-05, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by Frank_M
I'm looking into purchasing the 46HM84, and have a few questions for the experts. :-)

1. No video games on this set for me, but I'll have my HDTivo, DVD and VCR. I'll go HDTivo through the HDMI, and DVD through component, I suppose.

2. Viewing distance is about 10 feet from all seating. The closest spot might be eight, the furthest 12. Is that too close for this set?

3. My current TV is a 32 HD Sony WEGA (4x3)... so that's what we'll be comparing picture quality too. I've always thought that basic Directv programing (non HD) looks good on this set. From what I've read here... should I expect it to be WORSE on the Toshiba? That's worrisome to me.

I know once you leave the land of picture tubes, all of a sudden $$ spent doesn't necessarily translate into picture quality, as there are so many choices. But all that uncertainly is somewhat preventing me from making the "jump".

Appreciate in advance your help/advice.

Thanks!
I have a 52HMX84 and watch from 9' away. No issues for me.

I came from a 36"XBR direct view CRT and I believe that TV had better blacks than the Tosh. But, if you want a bigger pic, you have to abandon direct view CRTs. And the problem with bigger TVs is that flaws in the signal (which are hidden by your smaller TV) are now magnified. It's the same signal, just blown up.

Sooo, don't expect non-HD pictures to be as sharp as what you get from your current TV. But you'll be blown away by HD. Good luck

Frank_M

04-28-05, 05:06 PM

That's a good explanation. Makes sense. Plus, as with anything else... it's all what you like and get used to.

CamelClutch

04-28-05, 05:45 PM

After reading probably 80% of the posts in this thread, my head is spinning. But I feel much more educated about my recent purchase of a 52HM84. Some lingering questions:

1. Is there any downside to using the HDMI connection from a satellite box rather than component cables? Is there a significant difference in quality?

2. SD quality from DirecTV is not great, as others have noted. HD looks very good. Will a signal booster, such as the Motorola mentioned above, help with a satellite SD signal, or will that only work for cable? Any other suggestions for the DirecTV signal?

3. I noticed that some have experienced eyestrain during the first few days with this set, but that it's only temporary. Has anyone had persistent eyestrain that caused them to return the set?

I bought the 52HM84 from amazon.com due to an amazing price, but I'm regretting it due to the no-return policy. I like this set, but I'm just not sold on the SD PQ yet.

tommy1rx

04-28-05, 06:25 PM

My Toshiba 52hm84 is finally back in service 4 weeks and 2 days after blowing a bulb. It took Toshiba 3 and 1/2 weeks to get the part to my service tech and another 6 days for the tech to take 10 min to install the darn thing. (guess I will have Toshiba ship it to me if it ever re occurs).
Great set otherwise. Glad to be back in HD.

--Sclaws

04-28-05, 09:22 PM

Originally posted by CamelClutch
I bought the 52HM84 from amazon.com due to an amazing price, but I'm regretting it due to the no-return policy. I like this set, but I'm just not sold on the SD PQ yet.

SD PQ is going to be muddy on any big screen, especially HD sets. For me (via Dish Network) the pic is no worse than my last HD CRT set (Toshiba TW56X81)..if not a bit better overall. I think you will be hard pressed to find a 52+" HDTV that doesn't make SD look like you're wearing glaucoma goggles to some extent, but for me the superb HD image far offsets the minuses. YMMV.

Bill Shenefelt

04-28-05, 09:41 PM

The SD picture on digital broadcasts(OTA is so good that I would not suspect it to not be HD except the 4:3 format, ulless you directly compare them. If you are talking SD non digital, that's another story. No better thaan before, but really not worse either on a big screen. I had a 57 Tosh widescreen before but now with the new 62HM94 (or a HD picture from my LG tuner), the picture is absolutely great. Problem is "looking back" to SD after seeing Digital or HD, the SD really looks bad. Long term audio and video memory is not all that good, at least in humans.

Frank_M

04-29-05, 09:11 AM

A specific question, hope it's appropriate to the thread. I'm looking at the 46HM84, and my current stand (which is actually a piece of furniture) is 36" wide. I don't mind overhang... but does anyone with this unit know where the feet are located? Will this be able to rest solidly on my current stand?

If you don't want to muddy up the thread... feel free to send a personal message.

Thanks

jemaerca

04-29-05, 09:26 AM

Originally posted by Frank_M
A specific question, hope it's appropriate to the thread. I'm looking at the 46HM84, and my current stand (which is actually a piece of furniture) is 36" wide. I don't mind overhang... but does anyone with this unit know where the feet are located? Will this be able to rest solidly on my current stand?

If you don't want to muddy up the thread... feel free to send a personal message.

Thanks
It's hard to muddy up a 114 page thread:D

I don't have the 46" version but you can go to Toshiba's site and scale off the width of the TV (a known dimension) to calculate the width of the base. My bet is that it fits on your 36" stand.

Frank_M

04-29-05, 11:07 AM

Good point. :-) Oh, so you're assuming that the feet are at the ends of the TV? For some reason I thought they might be inset a bit. But I'll go check that out. Thanks.

Magliocchino

04-29-05, 05:21 PM

I have the Costco version of the 62-inch...

I did notice a slight improvement in PQ when using the HDMI input from my Dish Network 942 HD receiver.

The SD PQ is a mixed bag. Much of it is quite bad compared to my old 27 inch Sony- even digital OTA SD signals. I've become so addicted to HD that I set my Dish program guide to show only HD listings. I can use the old Sony for SD viewing, but haven't done much of that yet as I'm still in the shock-and-awe phase of HD. DVDs are amazing as well.

What's funny is that when looking at a SD show, I can shrink the screen by turning on the Dish channel guide and the picture is pretty good (the reduced screen is about the size of my old 27 inch Sony. I feel like an idiot watching a show like this, but the picture is much better. It shows how it really is a limitation of the SD signal and not the TV. However, it would be nice if they figured out how to get the large screen TVs to do a better job with the SD signals considering how much they cost!

Amazingly Smooth

04-29-05, 07:08 PM

Originally posted by Magliocchino
However, it would be nice if they figured out how to get the large screen TVs to do a better job with the SD signals considering how much they cost!

I'd say I agree, but I'd rather "they" just work on getting all channels in HD.

Cheers

DanofNJ

04-29-05, 10:29 PM

I have a 52hmx94...

I continue to have NO TVGuide...I have Comcast. I thought I read that there was a firmware update or a solution to this annoying problem. Does anyone know?

Dan

craysv1

04-30-05, 07:07 PM

I love my new 52HM84... it's awesome for 720/1080 viewing. HOWEVER... what's the deal with 480i/p? Everytime a source sends a 480 signal, it shows up in 4:3 ratio... even if it's coming from my dvd player set to widescreen. For instance, I have my LG upconverting player hooked via component since i don't have an hdmi cable yet. for copy protected discs, it won't upconvert... when viewing my dvdr's, it upconverts to 1080i great...everything looks awesome. however, if i pop in any store-bought dvd, it only displays in 480i/p... This is normal... however the tv won't let me view the dvd correctly unless i set the stretch mode to FULL.. why won't it work right in NATURAL?

I hope you guys understand this post.... let me know if you have questions...

Thanks!!!

sayanythingrock

04-30-05, 11:45 PM

yea its supposed to be on Full
you can switch the set to auto aspect ratio. but other than that you have to switch it to Full. its not stretching your pic if its in widescreen.

Scurbs16

05-01-05, 01:53 PM

I have a question for the local experts. I got a new 52" and am having 2 issues. My HDMI inputs are noticeably worse than component, so I can't use HDMI. This is using good quality cable over a 3 foot run, and it is the same for DVD or HD satellite box. Also, except for the brightest screens, I can see 4 sets of dark vertical lines on the screen. They look like seam lines on the inside of the screen, because they are equal distance from each end. Is this common, or do I have a bad set?

N.REED

05-01-05, 02:25 PM

Just bought a 52Hm84 at H.H. GREGG last week that was an open box unit for @1800. I have been playing with it and have noticed some odd results. For one, my HDMI input does not have any more ghosting than the component input. Second, the set displays more resolution when it is fed 1080i from my HD tivo than when it is fed 720p from the tivo (confirmed with the HDnet test program that I recorded). Also the set has way too much overscan when fed 720p compared to 1080i ( again confirmed with HDnet test pattern).
Has anyone else noticed this?

STI_FFY

05-01-05, 02:41 PM

Also the set has way too much overscan when fed 720p compared to 1080i ( again confirmed with HDnet test pattern).

I have the 62HMX94, and it behaves in exactly the opposite fashion. When fed 1080i it overscans more than when fed 720p (from my Dish DVR 942). I did not use a test pattern, but a scene where a feature close to the edge of the screen could be located in either resolution. In 720p is was inside the right-hand edge of the display, but in 1080i it was off the edge.

I wonder if the amount of overscan is being more affected by the source device (your TIVO, my DISH) than the TV itself...

crawfol3000

05-01-05, 03:44 PM

quote:
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????
A specific question, hope it's appropriate to the thread. I'm looking at the 46HM84, and my current stand (which is actually a piece of furniture) is 36" wide. I don't mind overhang... but does anyone with this unit know where the feet are located? Will this be able to rest solidly on my current stand?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????

Well the 62HM84 overall length is 67", but the actual base is only 51".
So I would say the the 46" base would be 35 ".

Rudy1

05-01-05, 03:55 PM

Originally posted by crawfol3000
quote:
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????
A specific question, hope it's appropriate to the thread. I'm looking at the 46HM84, and my current stand (which is actually a piece of furniture) is 36" wide. I don't mind overhang... but does anyone with this unit know where the feet are located? Will this be able to rest solidly on my current stand?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????

Well the 62HM84 overall length is 67", but the actual base is only 51".
So I would say the the 46" base would be 35 ".

This unit measures 42" wide at the base; overall width including the speakers is 53".

N.REED

05-01-05, 06:26 PM

Originally posted by STI_FFY
I have the 62HMX94, and it behaves in exactly the opposite fashion. When fed 1080i it overscans more than when fed 720p (from my Dish DVR 942). I did not use a test pattern, but a scene where a feature close to the edge of the screen could be located in either resolution. In 720p is was inside the right-hand edge of the display, but in 1080i it was off the edge.

I wonder if the amount of overscan is being more affected by the source device (your TIVO, my DISH) than the TV itself...

Seems very possible. Any way for you to check the diff. in resolution?

Chetty

05-01-05, 07:27 PM

Originally posted by fudgebrown
Sorry to hear that Tommy. I have had my 46HM84 for almost two months now and no bulb replacement yet. Did you have it set to Hi-Bright, or Low power? I have kept mine at low power to hopefully have the bulb last a while...

I'm still having trouble getting my contrast right on the 46HM94, it's even worse in low power mode. Anyone have any suggestions?

Chetty

05-01-05, 07:30 PM

Originally posted by crawfol3000
quote:
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????
A specific question, hope it's appropriate to the thread. I'm looking at the 46HM84, and my current stand (which is actually a piece of furniture) is 36" wide. I don't mind overhang... but does anyone with this unit know where the feet are located? Will this be able to rest solidly on my current stand?
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????

Well the 62HM84 overall length is 67", but the actual base is only 51".
So I would say the the 46" base would be 35 ".

The base on my 46HM94 is 42 inches wide and the feet are less then an inch in from each side.

N.REED

05-01-05, 08:40 PM

Originally posted by Chetty
I'm still having trouble getting my contrast right on the 46HM94, it's even worse in low power mode. Anyone have any suggestions?

I used a test screen from HDnet and my contrast has to be very high, in the high 80's i think to be right with the HDMI input. Hope this helps

sayanythingrock

05-02-05, 12:51 AM

has anyone here had their tosh isf calibrated? how were the results

lienly

05-02-05, 04:28 AM

folks, now share my review of this best and largest RP now here in TW.

finally got an RPTV, Toshiba 62HM84, after so many searches, studies, reviews, comparisons among all available RPs in Taipei, Taiwan in Jan/2005 (Sammy, Sony, Tosh, LG, Optoma, VInc/Gateway).

it's not the best among all tests, but it's definitely be #1 or #2 in most items!

in lunar new year break (Feb/5~13), I reviewed it in more details by different sources. factory default standard and mid color temp setting in low lamp power mode.

when delivered, wow, just look at box itself, it's huge! about 180x60x120cm! unpacked and carefully put it on table.
it fits perfectly in my home with Tannoy sp at sides.

DTheatre: T2.
I have never seen such crystal clear PQ in any display showing T2!!! PQ is astonished!
feel I am actually in theatre to enjoy this amazing movie!
just sometimes actor face is greenish slightly.

DVHS: DVE 1080i/720p (hard to tell difference). some say it's better to feed 720p source, but manual says 1080i gives the best PQ?
black level is really excellent! same as white level.
about 4% overscan which is good to see more!
lines ain't so straight, about 99.5% straight near the edges.
white dots near corners show not 100% accurate overlapped. thought this only happens on 3LCD? don't know why single panel has such issue? geometric problem?
still see dithering more or less.

DVD HiViCAST (JP made AV setup disc, similar to DVE/Avia).
can't believe it can show 0.4/0.8/1.5% contrast! this is the only one I have seen can show all 3 CRs!
skin tone is nice but still has green push sometimes.
straight lines ain't 100% straight against frame edges.
carbon carries red tone. should this be true no color scene or its original tone is reddish?
foods have really real vivid 3D look, almost grab to eat!!!
can see 10 pixels texts in both B/W tests! this shows clearest texts ever among so many displays I have seen!!!
gal in B/W dresses are clear to see, neither too dark nor too bright.
bit dithering in wine bottles.
visible ghosting in bright background with dark subject, reduce sharpness isn't very helpful thou.
gray scale is good but bit yellowish.
burst/resol is clear enough to tell every line.
not many noises in fade out.
good golden jacks redisplay.

DVD Faroudja Sage:
flying flag has bit jigsaws (from Sharp HRD2 PVR).
toilet paper texts are ok.
palmolives don't have too many strange colors as other displays show.

DBS:
superb sharp live PQ! you can even count singers hair!
hard to tell HRD2 upcoverts to 1080i from DVD, ie, feel it's in live or HDD mode!
grasses are so oily green.

above are all via component inputs.

setup:
it's simple and easy, just click few buttons, it searches all available ch.
menu is easy to understand/operate.
you can choose any input jack just 2 buttons. no need to go thru input 1/2/~/6/7 sequentially.
it takes less than 30 sec to see bright pic, quite quick warm up.
and quick restart allows TV on again almost instantly.

POP:
Toshiba has no PIP feature, but POP allows you watch 2 channels simultaneously. you can swap or change sound.
POP also can watch other input source, but left window only allows 480i format.
so you can get 4:3 (32") x 2 windows or 4:3 (27.5") + 16:9 (34") windows. so now I watch 3 ch at the same time (JVC 29" on ground).
you can search 12 ch then pick up the one you want.
its POP isn't so sophisticated as Sony offers which allows you zooming in/out of windows.

5 display modes:
natural: whatsoever it's 4:3 or 16:9, no change. get about 51" in 4:3 which is still bigger than previous Pio 50". just somehow bowing when display 4:3 sources.
zoom 1 for 4:3 in 16:9. uneven distortion which is good! center area remains almost no change while sides extend to fill in whole screen. hard to tell sides are enlarged unless you see running texts.
zoom 2 has max zoom ratio, so edges all cut off. you can scroll up/down.
zoom 3 if you want to see closed caption. scrollable to read CC.
full: NA in HD inputs.
or you just leave it in 'auto aspect' to let TV judges for you.

4 picture modes:
sports/std/movie/pref.
it can memory each input of its individual pic setting.
some people say can disable edge enhancement, but don't know how?

cable:
really nice to see CN lunar year end show on cable! in fast moving actions, no delay like sometimes you see on LCD. running banner is clear.
its DNR can reduce cable noises in some level. it works on HD inputs too.
white running texts show colors sometimes.
ch surfing speed is good.
in 4:3 mode, gray side bars look bit strange, it will be better to show in black. but so far no any useful method to change gray to black.
heard there is a special remote can do that, but nobody has verified its truth yet.
you can label each ch, but I just skip this since TW cable providers suck! change ch often. :(
also can memory 12 most favorite ch, so no need to search ch you seldom watch.

remote controller:
remote is nice with backlit. but 1 minor drawback is the 'enter' key isn't in the center of 4-way arrows as normal remote is.
so sometimes press the useless centre key as the 'enter' key, it happens when I want to delete unwanted ch.
it can control other devices like sat/VCR/DVD, but I prefer using original remote to control individual device.

sound:
MTS gives stereo sound when available like HBO.
SRS WOW has 3 choices to give nice virtual surround at 40w max. of course, it can't compete with my true 7.1 THX from Onkyo which drives Tannoy/Celesion/Mirage/SVS.
2 steps mute: half and total mute.
StableSound is very handy especially when change ch. again TW cable providers are really bad! can't even offer even sound level of each ch. :(
ch xx is very loud, but ch yy is so quiet. this tortures not only sp, but your ears!

noise:
it runs at almost whisper quiet, almost silent when I am 1m away from TV!
I can barely hear any fan noise at volume 10 and in quiet surrounding when I stand within 1ft from TV.
check it with SPL, slow A mode.
at 2.5m from TV, 29dB; 1m is 30dB, 0m (SPL is in front of Toshiba logo plate) is 32dB, at lamp cover is 41dB.

screen:
viewing angles are good, about 160/60 in H/V.
none reflective screen isn't 100% useful to anti glare, but definitely reduces glare a lot!
screendoor is barely visible at 2.5m from TV. FYR, my vision is 1.5/1.5. so anyone is nearsighted shouldn't worry this at all.
Toshiba suggests keeping from 10~25 ft watching distance.

service mode:
YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN RISK TO ENTER THIS SERVICE MODE!!!
it's easy to enter it, but better don't fool around if you don't know what you are doing!!!
you may make TV malfunction if you play in this mode.
anyone understands HEX code sys? I don't, so I just check lamp hr and FW ver then quit.

replace lamp is user friendly.
just need a Philips screwdriver and your hand.
haven't tried to open lamp cover yet since importer sealed it by a fragile sticker.
estimated lamp lifetime: 8000 hr in low power, 6000 hr in hi power.
low power mode already gives very bright picture.
lamp cost is about NT$7k, so 1hr for $1.

sum up.
if you have bucks, space allows, can't have darkroom to enjoy big screen, then this is the one you should take!
highly recommended!!!

hope above is useful if you decide to take Tosh DLP too.

you can check photos at Tosh 62 photos (http://photo.pchome.com.tw/photos1.html?nickname=lienly&s=s04&books_id=17&page=1)

lienly

05-02-05, 04:32 AM

unlike Optoma RDxx, change cable ch on this Tosh is as quick as you press the keys! almost instant changed. viewing angles (160 degrees) are really wide. even I stand at extreme spots, still see nice PQ. FYR, it upconverts all signals to 720p. you can see the big improvement over JVC 480i on photos.

it uses 6 SCW, 120 RPS. maybe that's why I see rainbow in black over white scene? but most of time rainbow has never bothered me b/c eyes are grabbed by really life like 3d PQ!!! I would say that I forgot rainbow issue completely!

thou Tosh didn't officially public PQ data on spec now, I have seen somewhere on Tosh web it has 2200 CR with 1000 nits! the brightest ever in DLP TV!!! no wonder low power mode is bright enough which also extends lamp to 8000 hr. that's why Tosh can offer 1 year lamp warranty! even turn all room lights on, screen is really bright enough to against any PQ degrades, no such problem like what most HT pjs suffered when lit on! that's the key reason I don't go for pj. hope years later there will have HT pjs which are bright enough to show great PQ in bright room.

still feel fresh tone is bit green push. it has artifacts, probably caused by over sharpness enhancement, but still within acceptable level.

no dead/stuck pixel in RGB tests. this is same as Optoma Sovereign series (NA here) with perfect pixel guarantee! BTW, I have seen 1 black spot (not 100% sure it's dead/stuck pixel, but looks like it is) on RD50. DMD still can't guarantee 100% perfect panel thou it has much lower chance for bad pixel.

the 'freeze' on remote is handy when you want to write down something showed on screen, such as tel # or lottery #s. so you can know if you are the billion $ winner immediately. remote is comfortable to grab, neither too big nor too small. just that damn 'enter' key is at wrong spot.
guess where its remote sensor is? if you can find where it is, you are a guru!

its ultra thin base makes it looks really like pricey giant PDP! actual body is quite thin and lightweight, only 46 cm depth, 45kg weight! even smaller and lighter than that JVC 29" on ground! but still better take 2 to move together due to ultra size.

this is my 2nd Tosh TV and enjoy both quite well. probably this is Tosh TV personality, both are somehow green push on fresh tone. previous was really HiEnd $750 (pricier than Sony XBR!) even it's only 21", most same size TVs only cost avg $280. it last about 9 years with only repaired once! quality is excellent!!! hope this DLP can last such long time too. both are assembled in USA. who says US made has inferior quality than JP made?

this is really the best and largest RPTV you can get here now!!! really state of the art! a German friend suggests SIM2 which isn't avaiable here and really pricey! FYI, his gears can buy an MB 600L sedan! if you can get better and even cheaper gear now, why wait another half year for still no confirmed launch date by local maker: Optoma RD65A?

lienly

05-02-05, 04:36 AM

after weeks, finally borrow Panny s97 HDMI upconverting DVD to evaluate Tosh HDMI performance.

s97 has too many features to mention. just name some: like variable playback speed (0.6x~1.4x) with sound (handy to learn language in slower motion and save time when watch movie at faster action), adjustable resol (480p/720p/1080i), dts decoder built in which allows direct sound output w/o external dts amp (HRD2 lacks such decoder), disc bit rate display, many PQ parameters adjustable, 5.1ch output, attenuator (thou I don't think it's useful here).......... but I just sell all to default/middle/0.

operation is very fast. press power on, just 5 sec is standby mode. insert disc till see pic is only 3 sec, eject disc is same 3 sec. FYR, HRD2 is very slow by comparison (35/25/3sec, respectively for same functions). IR sensor is really wide, even I press key at 160 degrees still works!

in POP mode, have to set both players to 480i b/c Tosh only accepts such format in left window while right win takes all formats. you can see left (HRD2 via component) is green push and right (s97 via HDMI) is reddish.

Tosh PQ is set at factory default setting to be fair comparison as always. on HiViCAST, I can distinguish 98/99/100 and 0/1/2 easily and even better at 0.4/0.8/1.5 IRE from both players!! HDMI doesn't carry such green push tone as component does; its reddish compensates original green push to get Sony look flesh. on those demos, PQ is really stunning! no matter it's fast moving car/boat/plane or still flower/animal, you just love it! HDMI PQ is bit darker but bit less noise. both inputs have identical resol, no matter which one (480p/720p/1080i) I set on players (s97/HRD2). does Panny really do a better job than Sharp in smoothing motion pic or it's just the advantage of HDMI, b/c I barely see any jigsaw in flying flag on Faroudja Sage? to find the truth, I compare HDMI and component from s97 only. yes, s97 really does a better job to show almost jigsaw free flying flag, it's not the advantage of HDMI! then compare HDMI vs component in resol/jitter/noise on s97. HDMI shows only a very little better than component but the difference isn't really that big. however, component has purer B/W while HDMI carries very little lighted paled colors in B/W. both still show bit ghosting; but some say it's not ghosting, it's edge enhancement too powerful.

this afternoon watched the House of Flying Daggers. PQ is really excellent!!! almost jitter/noise free. in bamboo scene, you can really feel 3D film look, bamboo is so oily green, just feel I am actually there! BTW, the 7.1THX surr sound is so astonishing too! no matter it's the drum dancing or war in bamboo, I can hear sound goes back and forth, L and R. of course, my SVS boosts whole HT feeling a lot! if you don't have such HT sys, you can set s97 'adv surr' to 'SP2 enhanced' mode which gives bit better sound; SP2 combines with Tosh SRS delivers even more vivid sound. of course can't compare with true HT performance. I use Theatre mode 3 to get rid of black bars on top/bottom, Tosh has a nice feature which allows scrolling up/down, I set it to -2.

CPRM is NG (panel clock reads sec by sec but just no pic), no matter disc is finalized or not.

PAL is NG too (can't output from HDMI but ok from s-video, just TV shows funny rolling pic in B/W; test it on JVC via s-video, still same issue. so I think s97 isn't PAL compatible/convertible b/c my Sampo can show PAL w/o problem on both TVs). or just Tosh doesn't take PAL signal?

last action is calibrated PQ setting by HiViCAST. FYR, set most parameters in middle except adjust color to 43 and tint to G7 in component; C to 35 and T to G10 in HDMI; medium temp. I guess if use other discs, results won't be the same. even after 7 hrs intensive tests, Tosh is still quite cool, internal temps are only 48/56C. and really quiet, almost whisper silent at only 30dB when stand at 1m away from screen.

personally I don't feel HDMI is really that amazing superior to component. yes, it gives less noise, more natural flesh, smoother jigsaw,....... but not worth me spend extra $ for HRD30 now. probably get an HDMI player which is CPRM/PAL compatible will be a better match now. hope Pio will have a cost down ver of 969 since Pio has best compatibility! or maybe even an Onkyo 1000 which has input jacks and scalar to upconvert to HD spec! FYR, Marantz 8400, Denon 3910/2910, Sony 7000 are all failed in CPRM test.

one very important tip is you have to turn TV on first! if turn player on first, TV sometimes can't find HDMI device. seems HDMI is quite picky. and Tosh and s97 talk to each other for what signal spec is! really too smart to be pirated now!

FYR, HDMI-HDMI cable is Total SLAC grade which is same as the first (probably still is the only one) TW maker got "ATC" certified for 10m long HDMI cable!! the 10m cable from others ain't ATC certified, if the info I got is true! can be used or can show pic doesn't mean it's certified. OD is 1cm (the thickest HDMI cable I have seen), no wonder I can't tell any PQ degrades eventhou my test is actually 4m+6m via HDMI-DVI/DVI-HDMI adapters or HDMI-HDMI connector to connect 2 cables! by comparison with another thinner (OD is only 0.55cm) HDMI-DVI 5m cable with DVI-HDMI adapter, TTL beats it slightly! bit less noise, bit more saturated colors, bit clearer B/W..... think in my test, cables are actually 2 cables with adapters which may make signal lose or add noises. so if just 1 HDMI-HDMI cable alone, PQ should be even better, I guess. I don't see any snowing in black scene for long time on all cables. very excellent quality at a good bargain since I got it from maker directly! :)

you can check photos at Tosh 62 photos (HDMI, component, cable) (http://photo.pchome.com.tw/books.html?nickname=louissvs&s=s07)
be patient, too many! :p take me hours to upload.

fudgebrown

05-02-05, 11:12 AM

Does anyone know If i can simply call Toshiba and say my bulb burned out (which it has not) so they can send me a new one for a backup? Toshiba covers 1 year for bulb replacement if your bulb goes out... but from the stories of how long it takes to get a new one... i would rather have the piece of mind and have a backup. I know it could be defined as lieing, but I would rather have a backup then be out of HD for a month (anyone hear me on this??)...

--Sclaws

05-02-05, 11:15 AM

I have considered doing the same..I want a spare bulb on-hand, but have not done anything about it. I'll probably just order one thru the place I got the TV from.

fudgebrown

05-02-05, 11:52 AM

Originally posted by --Sclaws
I have considered doing the same..I want a spare bulb on-hand, but have not done anything about it. I'll probably just order one thru the place I got the TV from.

Do you see though that with my method you are getting a replacement directly from Toshiba as covered by warranty.. so essentially it is free... but then again, you are sort of lying, but then i think i don't want to be HD-less for a month or more...

Amazingly Smooth

05-02-05, 12:15 PM

I don't see any "sort-of" about it. It is flat out a lie. This is essentially stealing from Toshiba and if the failure rate is much higher than they expect, I'm sure they will drop this from future warranties. Just because you can do something and not get caught doesn't make it right. If you want to get a second bulb as a backup, order one! There is no justification for what you are proposing. Please stop embarrassing yourself here.

Cheers

fudgebrown

05-02-05, 12:57 PM

Originally posted by Amazingly Smooth
I don't see any "sort-of" about it. It is flat out a lie. This is essentially stealing from Toshiba and if the failure rate is much higher than they expect, I'm sure they will drop this from future warranties. Just because you can do something and not get caught doesn't make it right. If you want to get a second bulb as a backup, order one! There is no justification for what you are proposing. Please stop embarrassing yourself here.

Cheers

I am in no way saying i would do it (cause i would not) i am simply wondering if it would be possible, and perhaps Toshiba may even let you (you never know until you try). But of course the logic here appears to point towards stealing and not being honest. I would not do it... just simply thinking out loud... so until i actually do it... i am innocent ....

sayanythingrock

05-02-05, 03:16 PM

i love my toshiba. people have stopped commenting on how good their tv's are must because they are not having any prob. anyone hook theirs up with and dvi----> component adapter?

fudgebrown

05-02-05, 03:34 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
i love my toshiba. people have stopped commenting on how good their tv's are must because they are not having any prob. anyone hook theirs up with and dvi----> component adapter?

Hey I just got a HDMI to DVI adapter so i could try hooking up my Apple Powerbook via DVI to my 46HM84. After reading about people trying it, i thought I would give it a shot. Well, it works, but i have a good amount of overscan. My Powerbook gave me options of basically 720p and 1080i resolutions, but they were overscanned a good amount. I downloaded a custom resolution application (like Powerstrip for PC) called Displayconfigx, which you can set timings like front porch, back porch, etc. I have managed to get the top of my menu bars visible which is good. It is kind of a pain to keep trying new resolutions, but I hope to eventually get 1 to 1 mapping, but we'll see how close I can get. Anyone have any settings they would like to share that would work on the 46HM84, settings like front and back porch? Also, i heard it is possible to damage the DLP monitor due to unsupported front and back porch settings or messing too much with timing etc...The picture quality is awesome though, i was looking at my 8 megapixel images in iPhoto and they looked very good on the DLP... I will post my settings as soon as I get a good enough result (i was up until 2am the other night just trying different settings...)

sayanythingrock

05-03-05, 12:56 AM

i say by pass the hdmi port and use component, its looks a lot better. check the mac htpc section they should be able to help

gbsnplr

05-03-05, 09:16 AM

I hate to be stupid but does the Toshiba have a HD tuner built into it? If so how do you get it to recognize the HD channels?

lienly

05-03-05, 09:36 AM

yes, xx94 series has ATSC built in but xx84 only has cable.

Originally posted by gbsnplr
I hate to be stupid but does the Toshiba have a HD tuner built into it? If so how do you get it to recognize the HD channels?

fudgebrown

05-03-05, 10:36 AM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
i say by pass the hdmi port and use component, its looks a lot better. check the mac htpc section they should be able to help

I've seen those DVI to Component dongles on ebay. My Powerbook has an ATI Radeon 9700 inside... so i would think i could use this dongle...

kdog044

05-03-05, 12:35 PM

Originally posted by fudgebrown
I've seen those DVI to Component dongles on ebay. My Powerbook has an ATI Radeon 9700 inside... so i would think i could use this dongle... Yes, you can even order it directly from ATI. See below.

http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967

sayanythingrock

05-03-05, 01:11 PM

yea its vastly easier to use component

uscpsycho

05-03-05, 01:13 PM

I am on the verge of buying a 62HMX94. It's a close call between the 62HMX94 and the Mitsubishi 62525. In general would you guys strongly advise to go one way or another?

Here are my questions specific to the 62HMX94. They've been discussed throughout the thread, but it's hard to find if/how they were resolved.

1) Most importantly, has a way to perfectly display PC output on the TV been discovered? If not, this one aspect will probably turn me to the Mitsubishi because I have a brand new MCE PC that I expect to use with my new HDTV.

For the record, I called Toshiba Customer Support yesterday and the woman on the phone told me that I can hook up a PC to the TV with no problems, it's just that they don't advise it because then you just have a very expensive computer monitor. This made no sense to me.

2) Early in the thread there were many people reporting blockiness/pixelation. IT wasn't clear whether this was caused by the source or by a problem with some sets. Has this been determined? If I get one of these sets am I going to have more visual artifacts than if I bought the Mitsubishi?

3) Any other issues I should know about regarding this TV?

4) If there is no way to get this set to work will with the PC, are there any major advantages that the Tosh has over the Mits that should sway me towards the Tosh?

Thanks for your help. This is my first post to avsforum and hope to learn a lot here and become a regular contributor.

jemaerca

05-03-05, 02:27 PM

You ask for a reco between a Tosh and a Mits in a Tosh forum. My prediction is that the Tosh wins:D

Seriously, I looked at the Mits as well but a couple of differences made me go the Tosh route:
1. The Mits reflects a lot of glare. You can remove the outside screen but I didn't want to do that to a brand new TV.
2. Inputs. I bought a 52HMX84 which has 2 HDMI inputs vs the one HDMI input for the Mits. I think the HMX94 series has firewire input as well.

Good luck.

nrucker

05-03-05, 05:13 PM

Hey Guys-

I am looking at purchasing a 62HM84 and am curious what everyone uses for stand. I am intersted in something wood that will hold components. I see Circuit City has a nice Bush one that is 60 inches wide. Would the base of this unit fit or look weird? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Nathan

--Sclaws

05-03-05, 05:17 PM

Rudy1

05-03-05, 07:46 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
yea its vastly easier to use component

Would that DVI-to-Component device work to connect the DVI output of a DVD player or STB to the component video inputs of a TV, or is it strictly for computer applications?

sayanythingrock

05-03-05, 09:31 PM

Originally posted by uscpsycho
I am on the verge of buying a 62HMX94. It's a close call between the 62HMX94 and the Mitsubishi 62525. In general would you guys strongly advise to go one way or another?

Here are my questions specific to the 62HMX94. They've been discussed throughout the thread, but it's hard to find if/how they were resolved.

1) Most importantly, has a way to perfectly display PC output on the TV been discovered? If not, this one aspect will probably turn me to the Mitsubishi because I have a brand new MCE PC that I expect to use with my new HDTV.

For the record, I called Toshiba Customer Support yesterday and the woman on the phone told me that I can hook up a PC to the TV with no problems, it's just that they don't advise it because then you just have a very expensive computer monitor. This made no sense to me.

2) Early in the thread there were many people reporting blockiness/pixelation. IT wasn't clear whether this was caused by the source or by a problem with some sets. Has this been determined? If I get one of these sets am I going to have more visual artifacts than if I bought the Mitsubishi?

3) Any other issues I should know about regarding this TV?

4) If there is no way to get this set to work will with the PC, are there any major advantages that the Tosh has over the Mits that should sway me towards the Tosh?

Thanks for your help. This is my first post to avsforum and hope to learn a lot here and become a regular contributor.

1.4. i use a dvi--->component dongle and get 0 overscan
2. it is the source, most due to compression over cable or dbs

uscpsycho

05-04-05, 02:09 AM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
1.4. i use a dvi--->component dongle and get 0 overscan
2. it is the source, most due to compression over cable or dbs

Couple of questions about these dvi--->component dongles:

1) Is there any downside to connecting with a dongle to the Toshiba vs. directly connecting to DVI/HDMI on a set that allows this (i.e. Mitsubishi or Samsung)? Is resolution a picture quality just as good through the dongle?

2) Will these dongles work with any DVI PC card? I noticed that the dongle sold my ATI is specified only for certain Radeon cards. If I have a Nvidia or other DVI video card will I still be able to use a dongle?

Thank you!

Maddug

05-04-05, 09:15 AM

Originally posted by nrucker
Hey Guys-

I am looking at purchasing a 62HM84 and am curious what everyone uses for stand. I am intersted in something wood that will hold components. I see Circuit City has a nice Bush one that is 60 inches wide. Would the base of this unit fit or look weird? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Nathan

Nathan,

I bought that Bush one from CC and absolutely love it. It takes a couple hours to put together, but it holds all my components and dvds no problem. I have the 46" and it fits on it with probably 6" on each side to spare. My dad has the 52" and bought the Toshiba stand and every time he comes to my house he wishes he would have bought the same stand as mine. What I really like about the Bush is that it has doors and hides the cables giving it a super clean look. I have young kids and the doors help distract them from pressing buttons.

Enjoy the tv...it's incredible, especially with HD.

kdog044

05-04-05, 09:15 AM

Originally posted by uscpsycho
3) Any other issues I should know about regarding this TV?
Since I don't use my display to connect with a PC I can't speak on your other questions but I can tell you the only problems I have currently.

1) There seems to be a problem with Toshiba and Comcast related to cable cards and I have not been successful getting mine to work. Other cable companies do not seem to be a problem so unless you have Comcast it won't be an issue.

2) The TVGOS still seems to be a problem. Apparently the Toshiba sets have newer firmware from Gemstar and there seems to be a problem with corrupted packets being sent to the TV and eventually causing the listings to be reset or preventing some users from getting any listings at all. Unless you use a Symbio recorder or use a cable card this would also be a non-issue. Supposedly TVGOS is working on a patch to correct this but they have not given a definitive release date for it.

Other than these two issues I am totally pleased with my 62HMX94. I do have the dual tuner DVR from Comcast so the two issues are relatively minor for me right now but I would like to get them both resolved. The PQ and black levels are outstanding and HD programming really makes this set shine.

fudgebrown

05-04-05, 09:33 AM

Originally posted by uscpsycho
Couple of questions about these dvi--->component dongles:

1) Is there any downside to connecting with a dongle to the Toshiba vs. directly connecting to DVI/HDMI on a set that allows this (i.e. Mitsubishi or Samsung)? Is resolution a picture quality just as good through the dongle?

2) Will these dongles work with any DVI PC card? I noticed that the dongle sold my ATI is specified only for certain Radeon cards. If I have a Nvidia or other DVI video card will I still be able to use a dongle?

Thank you!

From what I read it seems you need a Radeon card and the appropriate drivers... in my case I have a Apple laptop with a Radeon card.. but the drivers could be PC only to enable the dongle... i have no idea... anyone try the dongle with a different DVI card?

uscpsycho

05-04-05, 12:26 PM

Seems like component inputs are the easiest way to get a computer connected to the Toshiba DLP's. Unfortunately, that's not an option for me because my card doesn't have component out and the DVI adapter doesn't work with my card.

Is there some other combination of software configurations & adapters that will give me same/comparable results?

Getting my PC to play well with a 62HMX94 is the only thing holding me back from buying it.

Thanks!

uscpsycho

05-04-05, 01:56 PM

I'm a bit of a newbie here, so please excuse my multiple posts.

My first question is this - Are all component out signals created equal? In other words, should everything with a built-in component output look acceptable on a Toshiba DLP? I'm not concerned with quality, I just want to know if anything with a component output will have an acceptable picture without overscan, glurriness, ghosting, etc.

If so, then I suppose the rest of my questions are a moot point. But if not all component outputs are created equally then I would like to ask the following:

It sounds like the best way to get a PC to work well on a Toshiba DLP is through the TV's component inputs. Seems like most of the people who have successfully done this used a Radeon card with the DVI to HDTV adapter.

I *can't* use any of the cards this adapter works with because all of those cards are AGP and my PC does not have AGP. If I get a new video card with component outputs built into it (Radeon or not), will that be sufficient to get my PC working with the Toshiba?

If ANY card with component out won't work, what should I look when buying a video card to ensure proper operation with the Toshiba? (keeping in mind that the ATI adapter is not an option for me)

Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!

bigdaddy10

05-07-05, 01:15 PM

Is there any way for me to see how much usage I have on the current bulb in my HMX94? If so that would be a very valuable function. If I'm nearing the end of the usage of the bulb I can preorder one before the existing bulb goes out.

fudgebrown

05-07-05, 04:42 PM

Just to let everyone know, I fixed the overscan issue for my going from my laptop to my 46HM84 via DVI to HDMI. My solution was upgrading my Apple Powerbook to 10.4 Tiger. Tiger has this option to turn off overscan. I am connected to my Toshiba 46HM84 DLP via DVI to HDMI and i can see my entire desktop with a small amount of a black border around it (not much at all really). SO my solution was simply upgrading to Tiger. Displayconfigx was the harder way and I was uncomfortable with changing timing etc... so now my settings are the native 1280x720 60hz resolution that my DLP monitor supports! So for those PC users having overscan issues going DVI to HDMI ... buy a Mac! It was a very simple process...

kdog044

05-09-05, 11:00 AM

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
Is there any way for me to see how much usage I have on the current bulb in my HMX94? If so that would be a very valuable function. If I'm nearing the end of the usage of the bulb I can preorder one before the existing bulb goes out. You need to access the service mode to check the lamp time.

With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen
2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen
3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -
4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.
5. Press the "Menu" button a second time and the "S" will disappear. On the left side of the screen you will see "RCUT" followed by two numbers.
You are now in the service mode.
6. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.
7. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

lienly

05-09-05, 08:19 PM

this is how it looks like in diag page.
http://photo.pchome.com.tw/s04/l/i/lienly/book17/p439.jpg
(click R button of mouse if you can't see photo).
do NOT play in this mode unless you really know what you are doing!
enter at your own risk!!!

Originally posted by kdog044
6. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.
CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

lienly

05-09-05, 08:25 PM

what's the height of Tosh stand? are your eyes focused on centre of 62 screen or eyes need to tilt up/down?
how pricey?
tks.

Originally posted by --Sclaws
I have Toshiba's stand and naturally it matches the size and design of the set..a bit pricey, but worth it IMO.

--Sclaws

05-09-05, 09:59 PM

Originally posted by lienly
what's the height of Tosh stand? are your eyes focused on centre of 62 screen or eyes need to tilt up/down?
how pricey?
tks.

Just measured mine..looks to be 22" off the floor. At my sitting position I'm pretty much dead center on the screen, so it works out.

Pricewise, I'd say you can negotiate with any vendor. My vendor offered me the stand at 50% of Toshiba's MSRP. I'll PM you the pricing I got as I don't want to violate any forum rules.

bigdaddy10

05-09-05, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by kdog044
You need to access the service mode to check the lamp time.

With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen
2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen
3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -
4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.
5. Press the "Menu" button a second time and the "S" will disappear. On the left side of the screen you will see "RCUT" followed by two numbers.
You are now in the service mode.
6. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.
7. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

Thanks for your help Kdog.

752 hours and counting on the bulb.

sayanythingrock

05-10-05, 02:51 AM

i got 939 hours

kdog044

05-10-05, 08:15 AM

Originally posted by bigdaddy10
Thanks for your help Kdog. Don't mention it, glad I could help.

nrucker

05-11-05, 10:40 AM

Hey Everyone-

Thanks to all of your help I picked up the Toshiba 62HMX84. I bought a refurbished unit at a great price. I picked this TV over the Optoma 65H based on reviews as i couldn't see either of these sets in action. For those of you who may purchase the 62 inch Toshiba without seeing it; I have one word; HUGE. This thing is a tank. I first thought it would be too big. But once I got it on my new Bush stand from CC it looks great. This TV is gorgeous and has much more eye appeal than Samsung or Optoma.

First Impressions:

SD channels are fair at best. They are watchable but I think I can do better. I am using the Comcast Motorola 6412 box. Can anyone advise on installing a Moto booster or splitting the cable feeds directly into the TV for SD? Or both?

HD is absolutely stunning. Inside the NBA last night on TNT was the best picture I have ever seen on any TV. The HD on CBS and NBC were great too. I have one question though: American Idol was awesome in 16X9 and then I watched Amazing Race on CBS. The picture was good but I had black bars on the side? Is this normal? Are some HD shows not broadcast in 16X9?

I haven't had a chance to try my DVD player yet. I have it connected through Component 2 right now until I get an HDMI cable. I have a Denon 2910 and would like to upconvert through HDMI. Has anyone had experience with the Denon and the Toshiba?

Overall, I am extremely happy with this set. The picture is great and I haven't even hardly adjusted the settings. I am also really happy buying the refurb and saving $1400 over what most people are paying for new.

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST THEIR SETTINGS ON THE TV? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

Again, Thank you all for your help.

Nathan

Ragingbull2380

05-11-05, 02:54 PM

I don't think Amazing Race comes in HD...according to HDTV Galaxy

--Sclaws

05-11-05, 02:58 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
......

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST THEIR SETTINGS ON THE TV? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

Again, Thank you all for your help.

Nathan

Nathan-

Get the 'Digital Video Essentials' DVD (my personal recommendation) for calibrating your TV to your environment and perception..others settings are likely not correct for your viewing environment...

..and congrats on the purchase!

Panther1

05-11-05, 04:06 PM

I have a friend who owns the 52HMX94 and says the fan never goes off. I this normal or a defect?

bigdaddy10

05-11-05, 04:33 PM

Originally posted by Panther1
I have a friend who owns the 52HMX94 and says the fan never goes off. I this normal or a defect?

That is not normal. I have the 62HMX94 and the fan does cut off.
If you have the TV set for the quick restart the fan does keep running for a while after it has been cut off but it eventually does stop running.

kdog044

05-11-05, 04:34 PM

Originally posted by Panther1
I have a friend who owns the 52HMX94 and says the fan never goes off. I this normal or a defect? The DLP engine fan should turn off after a short period of time unless the set is turned on so he should get his TV checked out.

foreverblueleafs

05-11-05, 09:19 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
i got 939 hours

I got 422 hours on my.....:D

sharonf

05-11-05, 11:27 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
Hey Everyone-

SD channels are fair at best. They are watchable but I think I can do better. I am using the Comcast Motorola 6412 box. Can anyone advise on installing a Moto booster or splitting the cable feeds directly into the TV for SD? Or both?

Nathan

I have the Toshiba 62HM94 TV and am using the Motorola 6208 Cable Box. I installed the Motorola Signal Booster and it really made a big improvement in the picture. Almost all of my digital channels look great and even the analog channels look a lot better. The picture is stronger and a lot clearer. and the colors are better. I have a splitter hooked up to split the signal between the TV and cable box and the analog channels on the input hooked directly to the TV are especially clear. The Booster should be installed at the cables entry point from the wall..

lienly

05-12-05, 12:43 AM

me too. shifted from RD65 to Tosh 62! and very happy about my decision for superb PQ over aged RD65! :D

usually it's ok to buy refurb gears at good saving. however, do you know why it's refurb?:confused:

Originally posted by nrucker
Thanks to all of your help I picked up the Toshiba 62HMX84. I bought a refurbished unit at a great price. I picked this TV over the Optoma 65H based on reviews as i couldn't see either of these sets in action.

I am also really happy buying the refurb and saving $1400 over what most people are paying for new.

nrucker

05-12-05, 10:45 AM

No Idea why is was refurbed. It was brand new in a sealed box. It just had a little pink sticker on the box that said manufacturer refurbished. The TV itself doesn't say anything about that. I think I am going to pick up the Signal Booster and split the cable. Splitting the cable isn't going to make my HD reception worse?

I am using component from the 6412 to the TV. Does anyone use the DVI-HDMI for this connection? I have two HDMI ports, should I be using them?

One other Question-
Movies on the premier Channels (ShowtimeHD, CinemaxHD) don't even compare to ESPN or TNT. Is that common for everyone?

Thanks,
Nathan

kdog044

05-12-05, 03:15 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
No Idea why is was refurbed. It was brand new in a sealed box. It just had a little pink sticker on the box that said manufacturer refurbished. The TV itself doesn't say anything about that. I think I am going to pick up the Signal Booster and split the cable. Splitting the cable isn't going to make my HD reception worse?

I am using component from the 6412 to the TV. Does anyone use the DVI-HDMI for this connection? I have two HDMI ports, should I be using them?

One other Question-
Movies on the premier Channels (ShowtimeHD, CinemaxHD) don't even compare to ESPN or TNT. Is that common for everyone?

Thanks,
Nathan Nathan, if you have the 6412 then splitting the cable will not make it worse as the Motorola analog tuners are poor at best. That is how mine is connected and the analog stations are definitely better through the TV tuners. I have mine connected through DVI>HDMI and I compared it to the component connection and couldn't tell much of a difference. Unless you need the component input for another device you can leave it as is. The one problem with using the DVI output is when switching between the ANT input and the HDMI occasionally it will lose the sync between the box and display. When this happens you might get a split screen or bluish cast and you have to use the up or down channel and back to correct it. The other anamoly is a totally black screen requiring shutting the TV off and on to get the signal in sync again. It doesn't happen all the time and it may be dependent on how long you are switched to the ANT input but it is a minor annoyance.

nrucker

05-12-05, 05:34 PM

My Comcast guy left a splitter. It looks pretty plain. Do I need a different GHZ???? one or something?

kdog044

05-12-05, 06:05 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
My Comcast guy left a splitter. It looks pretty plain. Do I need a different GHZ???? one or something? If it was left by your Comcast technician I'm sure it's adequate. My technician used one from Antronix (CMC2002H) and it is rated from 5-1000 MHz.

lienly

05-12-05, 07:57 PM

I bought a splitter for CS/BS, up to 2200MHz.

Originally posted by kdog044
If it was left by your Comcast technician I'm sure it's adequate. My technician used one from Antronix (CMC2002H) and it is rated from 5-1000 MHz.

gahans

05-12-05, 09:05 PM

I have a friend who owns the 52HMX94 and says the fan never goes off. I this normal or a defect?

I have the 52HM94 and it never goes off either. I've heard others mention this (although I don't remember if it was this board or somewhere else) and I've seen responses to saying there's 3 fans, one of which is for the cablecard. This is the one that never shuts off.

I can't hear it unless everything is perfectly quiet and I go behind the set and put my ear to it, so its not a big deal to me.

Hoops2U

05-13-05, 04:41 PM

Congrats NRucker!

SD channels are fair at best. They are watchable but I think I can do better. I am using the Comcast Motorola 6412 box. Can anyone advise on installing a Moto booster or splitting the cable feeds directly into the TV for SD? Or both?
Both will improve your SD pix. Before you spend the money, have your cable guy come and check wiring. It took 3 visits before they figured out I had a faulty wire - wet. Once replaced, I did not need any signal boosting. I have Comcast & their policy is if they cannot provide adequate signal they will provide the booster.
HD is absolutely stunning. Inside the NBA last night on TNT was the best picture I have ever seen on any TV. The HD on CBS and NBC were great too. I have one question though: American Idol was awesome in 16X9 and then I watched Amazing Race on CBS. The picture was good but I had black bars on the side? Is this normal? Are some HD shows not broadcast in 16X9?
That is normal. Alot of the reality shows are not shot in HD, ie Contender, Survivor.
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST THEIR SETTINGS ON THE TV? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
There are lots of posts w/ settings w/in this thread. You will see alot of differences. I guess it can be useful as a starting point

Also, KDog's reply re: using HDMI hookup is spot on.

Enjoy!

TheGrub

05-13-05, 09:32 PM

I'm at 1588 hours and counting !!!...

No problems yet with the TV or the Bulb....

sayanythingrock

05-14-05, 12:24 PM

here are some pics of sd and a computer hook up...enjoy

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1183.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1182.jpg

sayanythingrock

05-14-05, 12:25 PM

took the desktop pic myself, quite proud of it

lienly

05-14-05, 07:23 PM

quite pretty shot. is it in FL?
I am a Gator! :)

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
took the desktop pic myself, quite proud of it

sayanythingrock

05-14-05, 09:45 PM

it was actually in south carolina, a little north of hilton head on folly island. beautiful

bannani

05-15-05, 06:28 AM

Hello everyone,

I am a newbee in reardlp and looking for changing my conventionnal TV 32', I looked for Plasma, but the pictures I saw on various plasma was not descent to me, not good at all except for high end one but the price:( , so I lean towards RearDLP and looked for the Toshiba 46WM48 which is the same as the 46HM84 in US, I live in France , and we can have it for 2500us$ which is pretty good price here in Europe.
I read the 117 pages and now I am afraid ,
- Ghosting with Hdmi connection
- Blurring in paning
- VGA , limited to 1024x768
Could you confirm me all those drawbacks and tell me if there is a solution to find ?
And also know who has no problem with his Tosh, since we hear only bad complaints, naturally,
I would love to buy this tosh and be sure to buy it in having conscious of all things to know about it

I appreciate your helps

toenail

05-15-05, 07:35 AM

I finally took the plunge and ordered the 52hm94. When speaking to my cable company I noticed the box they provide (motorola dct 6400) does not have HDMI output but does have component and firewire. Since the tv offers both inputs which should I use? Not familiar with firewire, does it carry sound like HDMI does?

Bill Shenefelt

05-15-05, 11:05 AM

You might try the firewire but I'm not sure how it will work. The component will definitely work. Firewire is a bi directional feed and carry spicture and sound HDMI is one direction and carries picture and sound. With the component you will eed either optical or red/white audio cables.
<I finally took the plunge and ordered the 52hm94. When speaking to my cable company I noticed the box they provide (motorola dct 6400) does not have HDMI output but does have component and firewire. Since the tv offers both inputs which should I use? Not familiar with firewire, does it carry sound like HDMI does?>

remotepc

05-15-05, 12:17 PM

For those using nvidia cards, I recently updated the Nvidia forceware drivers and to my surprise there is now a setting that specifically compensates for overscan. I have my pc hooked up via dvi to a gefen dvi to hdmi switch, going to the hdmi input of the TV. I was previously using powersrtip but I still had some overscan. The new nvidia drivers negate the need for powerstrip.

2900 hrs on the bulb & still going strong.

sayanythingrock

05-15-05, 02:37 PM

here is a shot of nfsu 3. sorry about the lightiing. ill take one of half life 2 tonight when its dark
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1198.jpg

Rudy1

05-15-05, 02:53 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
took the desktop pic myself, quite proud of it

You ought to be...excellent framing and composition.

sayanythingrock

05-15-05, 05:36 PM

if anyone wants some pics for their desktop that i took. pm me. they are 2272x1704 so they will look amazing on your tv. let me know, if im not too lazy ill post them up and give a link so you guys can just download

lienly

05-15-05, 08:29 PM

ghosting, I already get used to it. and only see it when I am very closed to screen, about 1m. I also find similar ghosting on all other displays (PDP/LCD/CRT), always see transparent edges at L/R sides of main subject. some say it's not ghosting but edge enhancement is too strong. however, don't know how to disable edge enhancement on Tosh 62HM84 (paid $4500 here in TW! :( ).
blurring in panning, see it in all MD RPs. wonder maybe problem comes from original shooting? camcorder shutter isn't fast enough to catch clear pic?
VGA, can't give you a hint since I don't link with PC.
even with above drawbacks, Tosh is still the best and largest RP I can find here in TW now! :D

below is my reviews.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=5562966&highlight=review#post5562966
you can copy/paste signature links to see photos.
anyone can teach me how to make signature links become hyperlink ready? so no need to copy/paste, just 1 click takes you to that photo web?
tks.

Originally posted by bannani
so I lean towards RearDLP and looked for the Toshiba 46WM48 which is the same as the 46HM84 in US, I live in France , and we can have it for 2500us$ which is pretty good price here in Europe.
I read the 117 pages and now I am afraid ,
- Ghosting with Hdmi connection
- Blurring in paning
- VGA , limited to 1024x768
Could you confirm me all those drawbacks and tell me if there is a solution to find ?
And also know who has no problem with his Tosh, since we hear only bad complaints, naturally,
I would love to buy this tosh and be sure to buy it in having conscious of all things to know about it

I appreciate your helps

Ragingbull2380

05-16-05, 12:32 AM

I no longer receive a signal for my ABC digital channel in my area. I still get all my other digital channels and I have the 52HM94. I don't understand why just ABC (7-1) would stop working, could it have anything to do with the Symbio I just hooked up? I talked to others in the Chicago OTA thread and they are getting 7-1 just fine.

bannani

05-16-05, 05:52 AM

Thanks alot for your commentary, I am aware that it is not perfect but it is the best value today, I just place an order.

Regards

Bruno

toenail

05-16-05, 07:11 AM

Looking for clarification on settings STB vs TV using 52hm94 and Moto 6412 STB. Do I set the STB to output 720p or 1080i? Have heard conflicting results. Same for DVD player. Leave toshi 4960 set at 480i or 480p. Trying to sort through least conversions/best PQ without doing A/B comparisons forever.

On a related note, aspect ratio is best controlled via the TV or the STB/DVD player?

kdog044

05-16-05, 09:03 AM

Originally posted by Ragingbull2380
I no longer receive a signal for my ABC digital channel in my area. I still get all my other digital channels and I have the 52HM94. I don't understand why just ABC (7-1) would stop working, could it have anything to do with the Symbio I just hooked up? I talked to others in the Chicago OTA thread and they are getting 7-1 just fine. I never have received ABC from the direct cable connection. I get NBC, FOX, ESPN, and CBS. This is with Comcast as the cable provider in Michigan.

sayanythingrock

05-17-05, 11:59 AM

anyone want to post up their pic settings?

Rudy1

05-17-05, 01:54 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
anyone want to post up their pic settings?

Settings for component video (Motorola DCT6412 & LG LST3410A---set to output 1080i) and HDMI (Oppo OPDV961H---set to output 720p):

CONTRAST= 50
BRIGHTNESS= 40
COLOR= 36
TINT= R -5
SHARPNESS= 55
COLOR PREFERENCE= WARM
DNR= OFF

ishoong

05-17-05, 02:17 PM

Hi, I am a newbie here. I just bought the 62HMX a month ago. And I am planning to build a Windows XP MCE 2005 or whatever HTPC to connect to my new DLP TV. Actually, I just want to watch DivX & rmvb on my new TV instead of a 19" monitor. I already ordered a MCE remote control and win-tv pvr 150 from ebay. So what kind of config I should get in order to finish up my HTPC? such as what CPU? what motherboard? how many ram? and most important what video card to get? connect with dvi/hdmi cable or with component?

kdog044

05-17-05, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
anyone want to post up their pic settings? Each display is a little bit different so you really should calibrate yours independently. Just look at the previous posters settings and mine below. This is using the HDMI input and calibrated with both DVE and Avia.

Color Temperature: Medium
Low Lamp
Contrast 65
Brightness 47
Color 44
Tint 0
Sharpness 0

Also, it's a good idea to recalibrate your set after a few weeks if you calibrate it when you first get it. Here were my original settings:

Color Temperature: Medium
Low Lamp
Contrast 71
Brightness 39
Color 41
Tint R6(-6)
Sharpness 0

I originally only had Avia and you can't properly calibrate brightness without DVE as Avia doesn't have a BTB chart. I do think that color and tint is easier using Avia because of the flashing pattern it uses.

Rudy1

05-17-05, 08:42 PM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
anyone want to post up their pic settings?

I forgot to mention that my current settings were arrived at using the HD test patterns from the INHD channel on Comcast, which I recorded to DVHS (I seldom watch SD anymore). When I originally calibrated the set using AVIA, my settings were closer to kdog044's, though not exactly the same.

sayanythingrock

05-17-05, 11:13 PM

popped in nemo since the first time i bought the tv and was blown away again, man i love this tv

sayanythingrock

05-18-05, 12:35 AM

got bored and posted up some pics of shrek and a shot of notebook to display flesh tone. this is all on a 3 yr old panny dvd player progressive scan of course.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1212.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1202.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1208.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1200.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/sayanythingrock/IMG_1217.jpg

enjoy.

fudgebrown

05-18-05, 09:28 AM

Originally posted by sayanythingrock
got bored and posted up some pics of shrek and a shot of notebook to display flesh tone. this is all on a 3 yr old panny dvd player progressive scan of course.
enjoy.

Nice screens! I will have to post my pics at some point... Some DVDs look better than others on my Toshiba 5970 upconverting player...

nrucker

05-18-05, 01:51 PM

I just got a new HDMI cable. I connected it from my 62HMX84 to my Denon 2910. I turned them both off and on numerous times and I don't get any picture or sound. This happened both on HDMI1 and HDMI2. Any solutions or suggestions? PLEASE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

--Sclaws

05-18-05, 02:22 PM

Turn TV on first, THEN connect the HDMI cable to the TV.

My 921 HDMI output apparently is always 'ON' and that caused problems with the TV trying to sync with that input. It wasnt until I added a Zektor DVI switcher (with a DVI-->HDMI cable from the switch to the TV) that I have been able to use the HDMI input by keeping the switcher off unless I want to use that source, and turning it off before the TV shuts off for the day (programmed macro's in a Pronto for the ON/OFF sequences).

More info than you wanted, but that's my experience with the HDMI port.

kdog044

05-18-05, 03:29 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
I just got a new HDMI cable. I connected it from my 62HMX84 to my Denon 2910. I turned them both off and on numerous times and I don't get any picture or sound. This happened both on HDMI1 and HDMI2. Any solutions or suggestions? PLEASE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Make sure you have the HDMI active on the Denon as the factory default has it turned off. If it is on then making sure the TV is on before connecting and turning on the DVD player.

nrucker

05-18-05, 05:05 PM

So i will have to connect it to component first; make sure the HDMI port is active; and then connect the HDMI to the TV; Turn the TV on; Connect the other end to the DVD Player; Turn the DVD player on?

sayanythingrock

05-18-05, 05:17 PM

how's it look?

nrucker

05-18-05, 05:21 PM

Still at work. Hopefully it works!!! Anyone else using HDMI Denon to Toshiba? Impressions?

sayanythingrock

05-18-05, 05:41 PM

welcome. got any ?'s

fudgebrown

05-18-05, 05:42 PM

Originally posted by Xelerate05
hi im new

Welcome! Hope you enjoy your time here...post any Q's you got... what's your setup?

lienly

05-18-05, 06:29 PM

right, TV on first! it's said in manual, also in my test with Panny s97. if I turn player on first, TV can't find s97.

Originally posted by --Sclaws
Turn TV on first, THEN connect the HDMI cable to the TV.

DigiPete

05-18-05, 09:18 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
Still at work. Hopefully it works!!! Anyone else using HDMI Denon to Toshiba? Impressions?

I've got the Denon 3910 to the 52hm84 Tosh using HDMI.

At first I was not impressed because I saw some increasing ghosting as I went from 480p to 720p to 1080i on HDMI, and so I kept using the component connection. But this latest firmware fix for the 3910 seemed to improve this quite a bit. Now I watch exclusively with the 3910 set to 1080i HDMI.

It looks great.

rain

05-18-05, 10:48 PM

Hi guys, i had my 52HM84 Tosh for 6 weeks and actually enjoying it especially with HD channels and Xbox until this morning while playing with my kids vertical lines appeared on my screen. It was on for 20 min. I tried turning it off a couple of times but its still there. I tried resting it for a while and no changes still. What could possibly gone wrong?

Has anyone encountered this problems before? I tried calling customer support and they reffered me to a local authorized tech, they have scheduled a visit this friday.

Hope you can shed some light...thanks in advance!

Rain

kdog044

05-19-05, 08:44 AM

Originally posted by rain
Hi guys, i had my 52HM84 Tosh for 6 weeks and actually enjoying it especially with HD channels and Xbox until this morning while playing with my kids vertical lines appeared on my screen. It was on for 20 min. I tried turning it off a couple of times but its still there. I tried resting it for a while and no changes still. What could possibly gone wrong?

Has anyone encountered this problems before? I tried calling customer support and they reffered me to a local authorized tech, they have scheduled a visit this friday.

Hope you can shed some light...thanks in advance!

Rain There was a problem with this model that had to do with some copper shielding. See attached.

lienly

05-19-05, 09:14 AM

is there any other tech bulletin of this Tosh xxHM/X series?

Originally posted by kdog044
There was a problem with this model that had to do with some copper shielding. See attached.

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 06:06 PM

Just got my 62HM84 last week and when I turned it on and set up everything I noticed that when I was looking at the directv guide, the left side toward the top the guide lines are slanted up, creating a tilted effect. Another reference is when you are watching a dvd and the top and bottom black bars are on the screen, the top bar on the left side of the screen is about 2 inches higher than the right side. On top off all this I returned the first set and now my second tv (62HM84) is showing the same problem. Is this a common thing with dlps or am I experiencing something that is not normal. Thanks for any input!!

sayanythingrock

05-19-05, 07:06 PM

thats not normal, you got a defective set in my opinion or it could of shifted around in transit

Bill Shenefelt

05-19-05, 07:38 PM

Find out who the local service center is and check to be sure it is a Toshiba authorized service center. Sounds like a simple adjustment they should be able to make in your house. I don't know DLP adjustments but in a tube set it is simply the pincushion adjustment. Should be a similar adjustment ont he Toshiba I would think. Gotta be in the electronics not in the chip I would guess. A service guy should be able to tweek it in.

Bill Shenefelt

05-19-05, 07:42 PM

Just another thought, what is the source of the picture? Same for DVD and the guide(84 has no tuner) Maybe it has a problem? IF you can, hitch up another source and see if it is still there. Maybe go to the diagnostics data screen and see if it has a tilt to be sure it is the set not the source.

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 11:17 PM

Bill,

How do I go to the diagnostic data screen? It is pretty distinct, you can even see it when you press menu on the tv to change the color, contrast, etc. I have attached a picture. it is in the left part of the screen and gets worse as you go up to the top of the screen.

This was the same picture on the 1st tv.

well looks like I have to make 5 posts before I can post a picture.

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 11:18 PM

3:o

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 11:20 PM

4 almost there:D

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 11:21 PM

samskiggiddy

05-19-05, 11:22 PM

wolla, the picture is not to good, because I had to turn off the flash and thats why it is fuzzy looking, its not the tv its my shaky hand!:cool:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/ssiefke/tv1.jpg

sayanythingrock

05-20-05, 01:21 AM

1080p tosh's are coming!

jemaerca

05-20-05, 02:11 AM

A S&V quick review of the 52HM94:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=836&page_number=1

toenail

05-20-05, 06:17 AM

I finally picked up my new 52hm94 yesterday. I ended up grabbing it from the local motor freight carrier at their terminal because I didn't have 4 hours to kill in the middle of the day waiting for the delivery window.

Here are my initial impressions. Physically, the set is very attractive. Contrary to my previus opinion, the side speaker set-up seems to be a benenfit aesthetically and it's overall shape fills the space in my living room quite nicely.

SD right out of the box was a huge disappointment. Not sure what I was expecting and haven't had time to calibrate yet. There are two distinct qualities that bother me. One is a horrible ringing/ghosting/mosquito effect on all image edges that is especially nasty on certain text such as Music Choice menu. The other is something I read very little about while researching but appears to be inherent to this technology, SSE with some color banding. Large, mostly solid colored surfaces take on a shimmering quality and it is occasionally very easy to see the color gradations as bands of pixels as opposed to a smooth transition of color. This was using cable box and standard cable connection through ANT1 input.

DVD right out of the box was better, but still left me a bit down. I threw in Fifth Element and tried a few reference scenes and found some of the same effects as on SD but not as pronounced. Shading and shadowy areas where colors have to transition more toward black/white/grey seem to be the bigest problem for this set. I also tried Gladiator reference scenes and found it to have fewer problems overall. I was using a Toshiba SD4960 with component connection through HD1 component input. I tried progressive output vs interlaced and prefered progressive.

HD right out of the box was very impressive. I watched two hour finale of CSI somethingorother last night and was really blown away by the PQ. Especially impressive where panned out shots of the dessertscape and cityscape from afar. Breathtaking. I did notice very minor color banding issues on certain scenes, specifically when a figure in a dark room was holding a flashlight aimed more or less at the camera. The rings of light radiating from the bulb against a dark background showed up with pixelized edges difining the gradations in light intensity. There was also very minor shimmering or SSE on some solid color surfaces. I was REALLY looking to notice these things. I'm not sure that the casual observer would pick up on them. This was using Zenith Silver Sensor OTA antenna and ANT 2 input.

Overall I'm happy with my purchase. I bought into the technology to take advantage of high definition and it does that well. I'll be looking into calibrating the set with Avia, boosting the cable signal, trying different inputs and connecting cables etc to see what I can accomplish with bettering the SD/DVD PQ. I did get to do a quick and dirty Avia run before bed just addressing the 5 major adjustables. I wound up with contrast 60, brightness 53, color 42, hue/tint -8, sharpness 0. Anything below 30 or so on sharpness didn't seem to register change so I left it off. Initially color temp was set to warm, changed it to normal when I thought I saw unnatural skin tones. Will evaluate further.

Bill Shenefelt

05-20-05, 06:28 AM

Samskigiggiddy
Looks like it has to be the set. Find your local tosh authorized service guy and get him out to fix the problem. Definitely not right by what my set gives. Doubt it is a difficult adjustment assuming he has the proper manual for the set.

JackLT

05-20-05, 07:40 AM

Originally posted by remotepc
For those using nvidia cards, I recently updated the Nvidia forceware drivers and to my surprise there is now a setting that specifically compensates for overscan. I have my pc hooked up via dvi to a gefen dvi to hdmi switch, going to the hdmi input of the TV. I was previously using powersrtip but I still had some overscan. The new nvidia drivers negate the need for powerstrip.

2900 hrs on the bulb & still going strong.

What Nvidia card are you using?

So, over the HDMI input are you getting true 1:1 pixel mapping without overscan with the PC, what resolution does it offer ?

nrucker

05-20-05, 09:57 AM

HDMI HDMI-

I still get no picture or sound from my Denon 2910 to my Toshiba 62HMX84 through my HDMI connection. I turned the tv on first, then the DVD player and nothing. Any other suggestions? Please!!!!!!

kdog044

05-20-05, 12:00 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
HDMI HDMI-

I still get no picture or sound from my Denon 2910 to my Toshiba 62HMX84 through my HDMI connection. I turned the tv on first, then the DVD player and nothing. Any other suggestions? Please!!!!!! Did you confirm that HDMI is enabled on the front panel of the player?

nrucker

05-20-05, 02:00 PM

I went into the setup menu on the TV and I don't see an option to enable HDMI.

nrucker

05-20-05, 02:33 PM

I think I figured it out in the manual. There is a button on the actual DVD player that needs to be pused to turn the HDMI port on. Can anyone confirm?

kdog044

05-20-05, 04:36 PM

Originally posted by nrucker
I think I figured it out in the manual. There is a button on the actual DVD player that needs to be pused to turn the HDMI port on. Can anyone confirm? Yes, it cycles through the options and HDMI is disabled by default.

rain

05-20-05, 04:52 PM

Originally posted by kdog044
There was a problem with this model that had to do with some copper shielding. See attached.

Thanks for the info kdog, the technician checked it out but still didn't work. He said the problem is in the engine and needs to be replaced, a problem common to Sony DLPs he mentioned.

Fortunately its under warranty, the engine alone will cost around 1700 bucks!

:D

JackLT

05-20-05, 11:30 PM

Help...

How do I get 1:1 pixel mapping even with overscan on this set using a PC via HDMI. Im hooking a ATI 9700 to it at 1280x720 via a DVI to HDMI adaptor and it looks bad.

Something must be wrong???

I had tried a Panasonic DLP it worked fine, but I cant get close on the 52HMX ?

Think I know why it looks bad, its converting the Digital to analog so the user can adjust pic settings then back to digital. The pic settings are available on HDMI inputs, if it is was true digital they would not be.

Hope there is a way to turn that off, or this is going back.

PC use is key.

JackLT

05-21-05, 12:51 AM

Just tried the ATI component adapter, pic looks the same as it does over HDMI, so it seems clear that Tosh is converting HDMI input to analog.

Too bad.

sayanythingrock

05-21-05, 02:13 AM

i posted up a pic of the desktop i think it looks fine with the adapter its a couple pages back.

JackLT

05-21-05, 02:22 AM

Once you have seen a 1:1 mapped 720p HDMI display as the Panasonic DLP does there is no going back. Why Toshiba image looks like it converts HDMI digital to analog then back to digital is beyond me, Sony does the same.

The Tosh is a decent HDTV set for video, but I can't say the same about PC use.

The Panasonic I returned was a floor model and had other issues, but I hope to find a new one, or may just wait out for next years crop to arrive.

kdog044

05-21-05, 08:07 AM

Originally posted by JackLT
Once you have seen a 1:1 mapped 720p HDMI display as the Panasonic DLP does there is no going back. Why Toshiba would decide to convert HDMI digital to analog then back to digital is beyond me, Sony does the same.
Jack, I don't know where you got your information but Toshiba DOES NOT convert the digital signal to analog over HDMI. There were posts of the circuit diagram of these sets and there is NO D/A and A/D converter in the video signal path. Sony does and perhaps Mitsubishi but not Toshiba. I'm not an expert but to say the signal can't be digital because you can adjust picture settings does not make any sense. The digital signal is still composed of YCbCr. The adjustments are made by manipulation of the coeffecients. See below:

All color controls (brightness, contrast, saturation and hue) can be implemented by manipulating the input
color space conversion coefficients. The YCbCr data after color control will be
Yout = Yin * contrast + brightness
Cbout = Cbin * saturation * cos(hue) + Crin * saturation * sin(hue)
Crout = Crin * saturation * cos(hue) + Cbin * saturation * sin(hue)

You should search this thread for PC settings as I believe you need to use a certain driver and a custom resolution to get the display to look right. Check Snills post on page 52. Here is an excerpt from it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=438276&perpage=20&highlight=snills&pagenumber=52

Update:
Hmm I just updated my ATI drivers and noticed a premade resolution 1776X1000i (reduced version of 1080i). I tried it and it works perfect on my 52hmx84. Very little overscan. I just posted the screen shot above.

JackLT

05-21-05, 09:02 AM

I see the whole advantage of a digital HDMI set, is with PC use you can get pixel perfect 1:1 mapping at the displays native resolution. The Toshiba does not do that, where others do on the HDMI inputs.

Running a analog component adapter at 1080i that is down converted to 720p, is never going to get you close to 1:1 pixel mapping.

I've modified my post, to indicate it looks like its converting HDMI to analog as the result is similar to using a analog component adaptor.

I can't see how a true digital connection could take a native 720p signal and display it as seen without changing it. As you pointed out, it may be processing the digital signal and not converting it to analog, but either way the end result is the digital image displayed is not matching the input.

Don't get me wrong, the Toshibas are nice sets for HD video, and many as seen will be happy with them for computer use too. They just are not ideal for computer use, if you want 1:1 pixel mapping. You can see a big difference on static images, but with motion be it games or video it would be hard to tell.

kdog044

05-21-05, 09:24 AM

Originally posted by JackLT
I see the whole advantage of a digital HDMI set, is with PC use you can get pixel perfect 1:1 mapping at the displays native resolution. The Toshiba does not do that, where others do on the HDMI inputs. The advantage of an HDMI input is to maintain the digital input not for use with a PC and for the potential of using one cable for video and audio. DVI was intended to be the connection type for PC's, not HDMI. Also, the other issue is the colorspace between RGB and YPbPr. If your main goal was to connect a PC to your display then you should have looked for one with a DVI input and the ability to select RGB. The only Toshiba I know that has the capability is the LG rebrand 44NHM84.

Rudy1

05-21-05, 10:13 AM

sayanythingrock

05-22-05, 08:00 PM

i think the pc pic using the dongle looks fine especially sitting the recommended 10 feet away

Stork3000

05-23-05, 11:37 AM

I am amazed at how many posters keep bemoaning the fact that these sets don't produce ideal results when used with computers. The manual clearly states:

"Note: This TV is not intended for connection to
and should not be used with a PC (personal
computer)."

Though many are reasonably happy with their own results, there appears to be an overwhelming number of posters here (and on other boards) who seem to feel that the inability of the sets to do what the manufacturer has clearly indicated they CANNOT do is somehow a shortcoming on the part of the sets. It's sort of like buying a Porsche Carrera and then being completely disappointed at its performance as a minivan.

You have a point, but look at it from the other perspective. Yes, the manual does state that. Of course, I didn't have the manual when I bought the set, so I didn't realize that the advertised HDMI/DVI support for the set tacitly excluded some 90% of existing HDMI sources. :-) In my mind its like buying the Porsche Carrera and then being disappointed to find out when the Owner's Manual states:

"Note: This Porsche is not intended to operate at speeds over 35 miles an hour."

Sure, it probably will support it, but it seems like an awful cop out. I did research the set, but none of the sources I used mentioned that PC connections were unsupported. Now, I happen to be one of the lucky one's who is satisfied, but it seems to a certain extent that the manual clause is really just CYA for Toshiba's HDMI implementation.

blackdiamond

05-23-05, 12:46 PM

I'm a little confused here. The DVI output on a pc graphics card is RGB, no? If the HDMI on the Toshiba is expect YPbPr, wouldn't that be totally incompatible? Perhaps, Toshiba is taking the RGB input and converting to YPbPr(all in digital domain), in which case you will have access to color controls. The signal would then have to be converted back to RGB for display I believe. This would introduce whatever errors there are in the color decoder.

samskiggiddy

05-23-05, 01:29 PM

wolla, the picture is not to good, because I had to turn off the flash and thats why it is fuzzy looking, its not the tv its my shaky hand!:cool:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/ssiefke/tv1.jpg

anybody else want to comment on why my screen is tilted? This is the second set that came like this right out of the box. What do I do, send it back and try for a 3rd one? or have this one looked at by a tech and see if they can fix it? Thanks

Julio Bro!

05-23-05, 01:59 PM

Hello people:

Yesterday I got 2 Philips 2GHz plus splitters at K-Mart, one 2 way and one 4 way, nicely priced; less expensive than Monster's.

On the DVD front seems like LG is back, as we say in PR, eating everyone else's candy. There's a new upconverting player, the LDA-511 which plays any DVD format, it should come out soon.

Already you can find the LRY-517 all format DVD recorder/VCR combo with single component output. There are also the LRA-516 all format DVD recorder and the LRH-518 all format DVD recorder with hard-disk. All these have firewire connection and work with Dual Layer DVDs and mpeg4 playback.

I wonder how the LDA-511 plays out on our Toshibas?

fudgebrown

05-23-05, 04:09 PM

If Anyone is interested. I have the Toshiba stand for the 46HM84 for sale. I will give it to you far below retail price... it is already put together and I will ship it via UPS.... either way i will list it on ebay and announce the listing here (if that is not allowed on these boards someone please tell me.)

JackLT

05-23-05, 04:20 PM

I'm a little confused here. The DVI output on a pc graphics card is RGB, no? ....

Actually a PC cards DVI output is both digital and analog on most cards. You can use an adaptor to access the analog and plug it into a RGB input.

HDMI and DVI-D, are digital connections, only the plug is different. Component aka Y Pb Pr is a analog input.

The advantage of a digital input is it should allow the output image to be passed directly to the display, without altering it.

Current PC graphic cards allow for a 720p digital output via DVI, which using a simple adaptor can be plugged into the HDMI input. The output is a TRUE 720p signal, 1280x720 pixels which over a digital input SHOULD map 1:1 to the pixels on the display.

You want 1:1 mapping, as scaling is the enemy in the digital world. If you have a LCD monitor, just try changing your resolution, only the matching the LCD's resolution will give a sharp output.

So sending a 720p signal from a PC, is an excellent test of the display's abilities, as you can output static images with expected results. Its much harder to determine how the display performs when viewing moving images from cable boxes etc.

The goal is to see 1:1 pixel mapping, it should just happen using HDMI or DVI inputs, but often does not, as I saw on the Toshiba DLP and a Sony LCD rear projection set. The Panasonic DLP does map 1:1 over HDMI.

You can also get 1:1 pixel mapping over a analog RGB input, by fine tuning the timings. I've never seen it done with component inputs on a HDTV.

It's not a deal breaker as we know the Toshiba and Sonys set offer excellent images with HD material, but it does show how the set is impacting the image received, and if you want to use your set with the PC desktop, once you have seen 720p mapped 1:1, its hard to accept anything else.

Ranjini

05-23-05, 06:05 PM

lienly

05-23-05, 06:11 PM

since HDMI and DVI can just use an adapter to convert plug shape for video, how about audio? HDMI has audio but DVI doesn't. do you know in HDMI, the audio has different pins or audio signal is mixed with video signal? if it's first one, then may try to find which pins are for audio to make 2 audio plugs to carry L/R.

HDMI and DVI-D, are digital connections, only the plug is different. Current PC graphic cards allow for a 720p digital output via DVI, which using a simple adaptor can be plugged into the HDMI input. The goal is to see 1:1 pixel mapping, it should just happen using HDMI or DVI inputs, but often does not, as I saw on the Toshiba DLP and a Sony LCD rear projection set.

jfwalt

05-23-05, 08:15 PM

toenail

05-23-05, 09:21 PM

I've had my 52HM84 for about 2 months now and I'm noticing an interesting problem with the screen. When the set is off, there is a light area in the middle of the screen that's very noticeable. I never thought much about it until I noticed that when the set is on and a very dark screen (or background) is on, you can see the light spot (especially when the camera pans). Has anyone else seen this... is it a problem worth calling Toshiba about. You can't see it on about 99% of the programming. Thanks everyone... this is a great thread!

Are you quite sure that the spot you're seeing isn't a reflection from something withing the TV itself? Ambient light from the room is capable of reflecting off internal TV structures and projecting to the inside of the screen. I thought I had a screen smudge out of the box but after standing in front of the set with a towel and blocking ambient light from different angles I was able to get the spot to disappear. I would need to open the set and tape off whatever is causing the internal reflection to get rid of the problem but it's pretty minor and not a distraction when viewing.

sayanythingrock

05-23-05, 09:23 PM

post up pics of your guys tv in action. im wondering if there is difference in skin tone from set to set, over hdmi or component

nrucker

05-23-05, 10:19 PM

I have the same white spot in my 62 inch. It isn't just a reflection, but I don't know if it is something that needs to be called about. I have heard of others with the same problem. Anyone else experience this?

sayanythingrock

05-23-05, 10:26 PM

yea i have it too

Julio Bro!

05-23-05, 10:33 PM

pls help me out here, i have been reading this thread all along and am not able to decide whether to go for 52hm84 or 52hm94? since 94 is a hdtv i thought i could avoid the connectivity etc that is needed in 84.. but i dunno which one is the best bet pls help
thanks.

It's really a matter of money and I think the 94 uses cablecard, if this is so, you know there's been problems and harsh criticism against the cablecard protocol.

I personally decided for the 84 because I know Adelphia here will be offering the DVR HDTV tuners soon, and I want to avoid the cablecard thing. There isn't many local channels in PR and neither are HD, so almost everyone has a cable or sat box.

sayanythingrock

05-23-05, 10:39 PM

i 2nd julio, i opted for the 84 because most of it is available over cable, yet along antenna's and mounting it and searching for signal. it ends up being similar

kdog044

05-24-05, 08:02 AM

It's really a matter of money and I think the 94 uses cablecard, if this is so, you know there's been problems and harsh criticism against the cablecard protocol.I don't know what you mean about harsh criticism in regards to the protocol but I think the cable card can be a viable option. The big issue right now seems to be Comcast with these Toshiba models and it looks like a fix is due any day now based on messages from Morph3ous who is testing the patch. Another bonus to the 94 series that I never thought about before is the ability to upgrade the firmware on the sets by using SD cards. I have already updated mine once and will be doing it again when the fix for the cable card and Comcast becomes available. You also have the ability to purchase an OTA antenna and get "free" programming including most of the basic HD channels (i.e. ABC,NBC, CBS, etc) without a subscription or purchase of a OTA receiver which will easily run you $200 or more. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase the 94 series if I had to do it again.

lienly

05-24-05, 08:48 AM

maybe it's the 'quick restart'? in very dark room, I can see very dimmed screen after turn TV off. but if I disable quick restart function, as soon as I turn TV off, screen is completely dark.

I've had my 52HM84 for about 2 months now and I'm noticing an interesting problem with the screen. When the set is off, there is a light area in the middle of the screen that's very noticeable. I never thought much about it until I noticed that when the set is on and a very dark screen (or background) is on, you can see the light spot (especially when the camera pans). Has anyone else seen this... is it a problem worth calling Toshiba about. You can't see it on about 99% of the programming. Thanks everyone... this is a great thread!

x94blair3

05-24-05, 09:30 AM

I've just found out about this TV series from another post. Are folks generally happy with this set then (other than the PC issue)? It seems a lot of the DLP's are popular but then have issues with quality control and stuff going haywire. The official reviews I read were good, but the folks here always seem more critical (in an honest way).

TVA seems to have a pretty good price on these...even the 62inch!

Nick

Rudy1

05-24-05, 10:07 AM

Try this test:

At night, make sure all the lights in your viewing room are off. BEFORE you turn your set ON, look at the screen carefully from your normal viewing distance. If there is light "leaking" from somewhere within your set, you should be able to see it then. Performing the test in absolute darkness is necessary to rule out the possibility of any reflections from ambient lighting.

IMPORTANT NOTE: YOU MUST BE SURE TO PERFORM THIS TEST BEFORE TURNING THE TV ON! THE LAMP HAS TO BE ABSOLUTELY COLD IN ORDER TO ENSURE THAT WHAT YOU'RE SEEING ON THE SCREEN ISN'T SIMPLY "RESIDUAL" LIGHT FROM A HOT LAMP THAT IS SLOWLY COOLING DOWN.

Julio Bro!

05-24-05, 10:11 AM

I don't know what you mean about harsh criticism in regards to the protocol but I think the cable card can be a viable option....

Hey kdog. The cablecard issue is something that must be read about and then decide, you've had a good experience with it and that's fine. In some reviews I've read of the kind of control for programing a given company might have for the integrated tuner.

Things like not being able to watch a program in full or not being able to record it because the card won't permit it have happened. Also, companies like Adelphia and DirectTV can include the DVR/HDTV boxes in the subscription at reasonable rates, if that's the case then you won't need the cablecard.

But it's an individual situation matter, one should read about it and decide. There should be other opinions in these forums to help in the decision process, your's included.

ishoong

05-24-05, 10:15 AM

I have my PC connect to my 62HMX84 through DVI-HDMI without any overscan and the PQ is really good and I can see the text very clearly even at 15ft away. :D I got the ATI 9550 video card because it's spec out that it is HDMI compatiable and also cheap. I also need to download the latest driver from ati then once I plug in my pc, it automatically detect the best resolution for my tv and it is something like ~1176x772 . I even dun need to hook it up to ne pc monitor as a primary monitor.

But there are 2 things still bother me. 1st why my wireless keyborad & mice won't work when I am 15ft away from my pc.... :p need to search for a good one! ne1 can suggest me which one to get! 2nd, the tv can only detect the pc when I turn on the tv first and switch to hdmi input before turning on the pc. I usually like to leave my pc on or at aleep mode but if I turn on the tv after the pc is on, the tv will not display the pc content. :( So is there ne fix on it? :confused:

Ranjini

05-24-05, 11:23 AM

Thank you Julio bro & sayanythingrock.. well with what u guys told me i went to BB yest and was having a look.. but to my surprise the samsung model ( new one HLR series) seems more bright and crisp than the toshiba. So i had a confusion and asked the sales guy.. he gave an answer that quite took me by surprise .. he said that the toshiba was a month old and had been running continously(everyday for 15 hrs) and hence the poor sharpness&brightness.. Is this true? did any of u faced such a problem? coz we are totaly TV ppl and i was afraid abt buying it .

One more q, since i read here that many of u were satisfied over Toshiba than samsung HLN series.. what do u think abt the new HLP and HLR series..

thanks

Julio Bro!

05-24-05, 11:47 AM

Ranjini, don't trust anything you see on the floor unless you can make sure it's been set to the standards known to must of us, like using the AVIA or Digital Essentials DVDs. What you saw could be what the guy told you, but it's not a "poor" indication, it's the bulb stabilizing to the use; all DLPs use a bulb that will lower it's intensity with hours of use...lots of hours, so the same thing will happen to the Samsung. I had to review the settings on my Toshiba after the first month, and actually had to lower the brightness.

Also it could simply mean that the Samsung was just set brighter and thus the diference. I can't talk about the new Samsung models since I haven't read from them, maybe someone else here has. I can say that most of us Toshiba owners are very satisfied with our big screens, it's one of the best DLPs that came out of 2004.

sayanythingrock

05-24-05, 12:04 PM

yea at my store we run those tv's for hours, and they aren't calibrated properly. as far as rudy's test, it was just my fan light above my tv that was causing the spot. no prob

nrucker

05-24-05, 02:00 PM

I finally figured out how to hook up my Denon 2910 to my 62HMX84. The problem is the picture is terrible. This DVD player is suppose to be one of the best and upconvert to 720P or 1080I. I didn't even think DVD's looked that good on Component. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

asacks

05-24-05, 02:55 PM

Well, given the currently excellent deals available on the net on these old Tosh's despite their excellent performance ratings, I have made the plunge and ordered my 52HM84. I saw it at a b&M store on an HD feed and the picture was as outstanding as advertised, and now I just can't wait to get the TV home and hook it up (speaking of which, I need an HD cable box now so I have something to hook it up to, time to call Time Warner Cable). Anyways, just wanted to introduce myself to all you earlier adopters out there and say thanks for posting and helping with my research in deciding which TV to go with.

fudgebrown

05-24-05, 04:11 PM

asacks

05-24-05, 04:24 PM

Thanks Fudgebrown!

CosmoVI

05-24-05, 04:44 PM

ranjini - I bought the 52HM94 because:

1. Even though I live too far away from NYC to pick up OTA HD, I wanted the option in the future in case we move or in case OTA reception improves.
2. I wanted the Game Mode available on the '94 series that is not available on the '84 series.
3. I wanted the option to use a direct cable feed without going thru a cable box (I'm using a SA8300HD from Cablevision for now, but I may go back to TIVO when the introduce a HD recorder).
4. I could buy the '94 for $100 more than the '84, so it was a no-brainer.

asacks - Welcome to the club!! Hope you enjoy it as much as most here do.

Bright Spot in the Middle of the Screen? Yup, I've seen it on a couple of occasions, too, but it never seems to interfere with PQ.

I'm still getting that damned annoying picture flashing while watching Mets games on FSHD or MSGHD. Don't know what's causing it. I'm going to have to call Cablevision to complain.

Oh, and as soon as DirecTV gets their act together and reduces the price of their dual-tuner DVR to something south of $600 - AND they add all of the necessary local HD channels to their lineup - then I'll be dumping Cablevision and going back to DirecTV. The UI on the Cablevision SA8300HD is simply terrible when compared to TIVO - but it's better than no DVR at all!!

Shaner1

05-24-05, 04:57 PM

I have the smudges that other people have talked about earlier in this thread. I can see them on white or light colored scenes. I have a service tech coming out on Friday to look at the set, hopefully it's just the dust on the mirrors that others have mentioned.

I'll update after the tech has been here.

Bill Shenefelt

05-24-05, 05:34 PM

Hey Fudgebrown, wait till you see the picture for real at home. Stores usually look crummy.
My panasonic dvd recorder looks fine on component. You can see a difference between a dvd and true hd, but the DVD still loks great same as any digital feed. That's the thing that really impresses me about the Tosh, non hd looks absolutely outstanding on digital feeds. Walking in the room I would not know the difference except the HD is in widescreen, and non hd digital in 4 by 3. I recorded a HD feed of Butterfly Effect off of C band HD satellite and directly compareed it to the DVD. Close, but the HD does edge out the DVD, but none the less, close. I would guess on a 54 ranter than my 62, it is even closer.

Julio Bro!

05-24-05, 10:27 PM

I just learned about the Toshiba 5980 DVD player, what's the word on it? Better than the 5970, what are the differences?

nrucker

05-25-05, 09:29 AM

Can anyone comment on PQ of DVD with HDMI compared to component. I don't think either are that great, but HDMI is probably worse. Any settings I need to change?

Thanks,

Bill Shenefelt

05-25-05, 10:36 AM

I run Component for two LG 3410A recorder/tuners, a C band Satellite 4DTV with digital and HD output via HDD200 with 169time mod for recording HD on the LG's, and DVD from a Panasonic hard drive/DVD recorder, mainly for playing DVDs. All are switched component signals thru a Video Storm CSW02 active switcher. On all, for both HD and SD digital, I think the picture is great. I never bother with the HDMI since so few components use that type connector a switcher for it would be a waste of money.
I only adjusted the set to warm, movie, low power bulb and a tiny tweek on the contrast lowering it a little. I am using a 62HM94 for daytime and an Infocus X1 for night time for wide screen movies in HD. If anything, the picture on the Tosh is a little overbearing for a dark room and the non HD front projector (on a 9 ft screen) is a little softer and a bit more "movie like" and easier on the eyes in a dark room. My only complaint, if any, is taht the DLP units do not have an internakl "flesh color correction" circuit to remove a green or purple tone from flesh when the station is a bit off. My old heathkit had such a circuit. Maybe I'm just not picky enough about the overall picture, but I have not seen anything better.

Bill Shenefelt

05-25-05, 10:45 AM

kdog044

05-25-05, 12:25 PM

Having just said I love the Tosh picture, I would like to "tone it down a bit". I have read several threads about calibration disks, technicians etc, but would like to just have something I could use as a reference to see if my visual adjustments on screen with a OTA HD broadcast picture could be improved with a test disk or tape. I have a Mits HD tape deck and the Panasonic DMR-E100H DVD. Any recommendations as to a test disk or tape that might help me make some adjustments (not in the repair mode, just with the color contrast brightness etc controls), as I said, just to go to a "softer" picture? Bill, the best you could do is to use Avia or DVE to calibrate the DVD input (component or HDMI) and use that setting as a baseline for your other inputs and manually tweak the settings based on your preference. If you had cable you could use the tests that are broadcast on INHD (Saturdays at 7:00 AM) or HDNet (Tuesdays at 8:00 AM) to calibrate thos inputs.

Bill Shenefelt

05-25-05, 02:03 PM

Are there features to one disk vs another( AVIA vs DVE) that can make it preferable?

hlweyl

05-25-05, 06:03 PM

2. I wanted the Game Mode available on the '94 series that is not available on the '84 series.

Hello,

I haven't read anything about "game mode" and when I spoke to Tosh customer service, Michelle said that the DLP's don't have it and only the CRT need that to prevent burn-in.

Can I ask where you found out about this?

Thx

BTW, she also claimed to have no knowledge about "ghosting" artifacts. :rolleyes:

bigdaddy10

05-25-05, 06:39 PM

Hello,

I haven't read anything about "game mode" and when I spoke to Tosh customer service, Michelle said that the DLP's don't have it and only the CRT need that to prevent burn-in.

Can I ask where you found out about this?

Thx

BTW, she also claimed to have no knowledge about "ghosting" artifacts. :rolleyes:

You can only get "Game Mode" on the Cinema series 94. You can read everything about Game Mode on pg 85 of the 52/62HMX94 manual.
Most of the time level 1 customer service knows nothing about the systems they are arguably supporting. They have a set script of what to say or do and anything else is shipped to someone else.

lchiu7

05-25-05, 09:05 PM

I am amazed at how many posters keep bemoaning the fact that these sets don't produce ideal results when used with computers. The manual clearly states:

"Note: This TV is not intended for connection to
and should not be used with a PC (personal
computer)."

Though many are reasonably happy with their own results, there appears to be an overwhelming number of posters here (and on other boards) who seem to feel that the inability of the sets to do what the manufacturer has clearly indicated they CANNOT do is somehow a shortcoming on the part of the sets. It's sort of like buying a Porsche Carrera and then being completely disappointed at its performance as a minivan.

If 1-to-1 pixel mapping, etc., etc., is so critically important, then people should research all available brands and models to ascertain which TV would best meet their needs. Despite the fact that everyone is entitled to their own opinion, I feel we owe it to all users of this board to be throrough in our assessment of the equipment we write about. When we write reviews of equipment based on a few hours usage, or we complain about "features" which are not even part of the equipment's specifications, we are simply not being objective.

I have the PAL version of this RP (I think). Same video specs, DLP HD2+ chip, 1T280,720 res, TALEN, 3 component inputs, HDMI, composite etc. Pictures of the unit look like the US Toshiba unit. No cablecard and the remote is different though

Big difference is the PAL version has a VGA input so it's designed for PC input. I have tried ouputting a 1024x768 output from a PC and it looks fine (4:3 image in the middle) and it can be stretched out via the video controls. I am just wondering if I need the best PQ should I get a video card with DVI output and feed that into the HDMI input (with adapter of course)?

Larry

Rudy1

05-26-05, 08:54 AM

kdog044

05-26-05, 09:48 AM

Are there features to one disk vs another( AVIA vs DVE) that can make it preferable? Bill, they both have their positive aspects. Personally, I like Avia better but it doesn't have BTB tests so to get brightness accurate you need the DVE. I think Avia has much better and extensive audio tests and find it easier to adjust color (chroma) and tint (hue) then DVE because it uses flashing boxes that slow down as you get closer to proper calibration. I couldn't seem to get DVE's patterns to blend as well but maybe it's because I have used Avia a lot longer. If I had to choose one and wasn't concerned with audio calibration I would get DVE as it's about half the cost of Avia.

lienly

05-26-05, 10:17 AM

I don't use HTPC to give comment, but friend says his 46 has overscan about 8%, which hides the top menu of WinXP. do you know what parameter he can adjust to reduce overscan in service mode? HDMI-DVI connection.

if you want longer KB operating dist (10m), you can choose BT tech. MS, Logi, Apple, Belkin..... have such BT K+M sets. but bit pricey.

I have my PC connect to my 62HMX84 through DVI-HDMI without any overscan and the PQ is really good and I can see the text very clearly even at 15ft away. :D I got the ATI 9550 video card because it's spec out that it is HDMI compatiable and also cheap. I also need to download the latest driver from ati then once I plug in my pc, it automatically detect the best resolution for my tv and it is something like ~1176x772 . I even dun need to hook it up to ne pc monitor as a primary monitor.

But there are 2 things still bother me. 1st why my wireless keyborad & mice won't work when I am 15ft away from my pc.... :p need to search for a good one! ne1 can suggest me which one to get! 2nd, the tv can only detect the pc when I turn on the tv first and switch to hdmi input before turning on the pc. I usually like to leave my pc on or at aleep mode but if I turn on the tv after the pc is on, the tv will not display the pc content. :( So is there ne fix on it? :confused:

ishoong

05-26-05, 10:53 AM

lchiu7

05-26-05, 05:19 PM

Larry,

I don't know anything about PAL systems, nor am I familiar with your particular set, but I would suggest that you continue using the VGA input if it works and you're happy with the results. My post was intended for the many who are (in spite of the manufacturer's warning) expecting the set to perform PERFECTLY when fed output from a computer. The NTSC sets will work which such signals....but the results are less than ideal, thus the complaints.

---Rudy

I guess the reason I asked the question is because the set I have

http://www.castel.com.au/toshiba/ProductDetail.asp?Brand=T&Category=DLP&ProductCode=52JM9UA

seems like the non US version of the various Toshiba DLP RP's that are the subject of this thread. The technology, light engine, styling etc. look almost identical except that the non US model doesn't have cablecard, MTS tuner, HD tuner and it seems firewire. But it does have VGA input which is designed to handle correctly a 1024x768 video signal.

I have fed a PC signal into the set and it looks fine. And playing a DVD using PowerDVD (2.25:1 AR) scales perfectly on the screen - really an imperceptible difference between the same DVD being played on a DVD player outputting to the set over component video

Larry

sayanythingrock

05-26-05, 07:49 PM

wonder why they opted not to have th vga input on the america version.

lchiu7

05-26-05, 09:02 PM

Manufacturers do strange things. For example before I got the Toshiba I looked at the Sony Grand Wega 3 panel LCDs. However in the non US market they have no digital inputs, DVI, HDMI or even VGA whereas in the US I think they have HDMI. So while I loved the PQ I didn't get one.

Glad I waited (I think)

Larry

sayanythingrock

05-27-05, 02:03 AM

lets post up pics of our setup or screenshots!

kellercl

05-27-05, 09:15 AM

I got this from Crutchfield about the 52HMX94:
"Picture Size: When viewing a 1080i, 480i, or 480p signal source, you can choose one of the following picture sizes:

* Natural: image is displayed close to its originally formatted proportion
* Full: This mode is mainly designed for 16:9 programs. When a 16:9 program is received, the picture is stretched taller to fill the screen without distorting the main portion of the image. If a 4:3 program is sensed, the picture is stretched wider to fill the screen, but not taller. In each case, none of the picture is hidden.
o Note: Full cannot be used with 1080i signals.
* Theater Wide 1: picture is non-uniformly enlarged; the center of the picture remains close to its true proportion, but the left and right edges are stretched wider to fill the screen
* Theater Wide 2: entire picture is uniformly enlarged
* Theater Wide 3: picture is non-uniformly enlarged; the picture is stretched wider to fill the width of the screen and stretched slightly taller"

I have a CRT Toshiba and for me natural puts out a 4:3 image and all 16:9 signal have to be put in Full Mode. So I was wondering if this is true with this set. It says you can't put a 1080i signal on Full Mode so can this set accurately put out a 16:9 1080i image? Also I hear this set has a game mode so there is no delay issues, can anybody comment on this? How are the bulb lifetimes? Thanks for the help. Oh how is the general PQ?

TheGrub

05-27-05, 10:01 AM

Both with my DVD player and my digital set top box, when i give a 1080i signal to the TV, it has to be set to Natural. Full mode is disabled.

Game mode is on the 94 series and i heard it helps alot with 480i games like ps2 or gamecube.

I personnaly have an Xbox and have never seen a game with lag.

Here on AVS Forum, the toshiba seems to be the DLP with less problems. Quiet fans, not alot of blown bulbs etc..etc..

My 52HM84 has about 1600 hours on it and i never had any problems with it... i still love it and would not change for any other model out there at the moment....

kellercl

05-27-05, 11:14 AM

DigiPete

05-27-05, 12:50 PM

Can anyone comment on PQ of DVD with HDMI compared to component. I don't think either are that great, but HDMI is probably worse. Any settings I need to change?

Thanks,

nathan,

Get the latest firmware for your unit from Denon. It has many picture quality fixes.

Then, after you have done that, get AVIA (an DVE for pluge pattern adjustments) and calibrate both your component inputs and your HDMI input. You will likely have to change almost all your settings to get the picture calibrated properly, but it will make a big difference. Set your tosh to film mode, and tweak from there, making sure you save your settings(not intuitively obvious with Toshiba's menus and remote control layout).

I have the 3910 with the 52hm84 and it looks great. I now prefer HDMI set to 1080i with my set up. But even changing resolutions on HDMI may require recalibration, as sharpness seems to vary and maybe other settings as well.

Julio Bro!

05-27-05, 01:17 PM

...new upconverting player, the LDA-511 which plays any DVD format, it should come out soon...the LRY-517 all format DVD recorder/VCR combo with single component output. All these have firewire connection and work with Dual Layer DVDs and mpeg4 playback.

These are available at Best Buy and J&R, but only at the stores, not on-line.

Anyone to test the LDA-511 with our Toshibas?

TheGrub

05-27-05, 01:59 PM

So the natural mode on this set, it displays a 16:9 image? The natural mode on my old Toshiba CRT sets everything to 4:3 and has gray bars on the sides. Basically I just want to make sure I can put a 1080i signal in 16:9 on this set without any problems.

Yes sir, as i said, both my DVD player and Digital Set Top box (SA 3250) display 1080i in 16:9 on Natural mode.

kellercl

05-27-05, 02:02 PM

Yes sir, as i said, both my DVD player and Digital Set Top box (SA 3250) display 1080i in 16:9 on Natural mode.
Excellent I just wanted to be dead sure before I shell out $3000. I love the two HDMI ports, especially since (more than likely) both the xbox 360 and ps3 will support such inputs. The game mode for older games is a great feature as well. Nice DLP set. Thanks greatly for the help.

Shaner1

05-28-05, 02:47 PM

My set has developed what look to be smudges on the top left of the screen. They are very visible on light backgrounds. I had a service tech out to the house yesterday and he said it's from dust getting on/in the optical block.

They are going to take it in shop to clean it in their dust free room, then he said they will seal up the optical block better so that it doesn't happen again.

The "smudges" aren't very big but they are growing little by little.

Anyone else have this problem?

sayanythingrock

05-28-05, 09:35 PM

i haven't found any smudges on my set?

Rudy1

05-29-05, 01:00 PM

i haven't found any smudges on my set?

Same here...wonder what is causing them on Shaner1's set.

Julio Bro!

05-29-05, 11:37 PM

Where do you get good quality HDMI cables at reasonable prices (as in less expensive than Monster's) on-line?

sully0007

05-30-05, 12:11 AM

japolt

05-30-05, 07:44 AM

That said the price continues to plummit for the Toshiba DLP.
I saw an online add (for a B&M store) in the LA times with this
model for $2000....a bargain at that price even with
*ucked* HDMI input. The composite inputs are soo sweet.
I did hear (in this thread) that there was somekind of hardware
fix for the HDMI situation expected in Feb/Mar 2005. If anyone
knows about this kindly sound up!

Victor, you may be my best hope here. I just bought the TV last week (perhaps not the best or most informed choice ;) ). I can't get the DVI output of the daughter card to display on the TV at all (using DVI to HMDI) The MDP130 works fine on my computer monitor. The TOSLINK on the daughter card sends the audio to my receiver with no problem, but the lack of any video on the TV has me stimied.

I think I read all your postings and most of the MyHD thread postings and I have some clues as how to proceed, but would love some direct guidance.

Equipment Info:
MyHD MSP130 w/daughter; Radeon 9800 Pro w/ DVI and s video outputs .

Goal #1: Use the DVI out of the MDP130 daughter. Currently running MDP130 in single monitor setup mode, attempting to port straight from DVI output to HDMI (1 or 2). Enable DVI output box is checked on the VGA setup screen. The MDP130 manual is not much help. Not sure what controls what. Have played with AV setup (resolution) and VGA setup (overlay mode) to no avail. Have tried dual monitor mode again to no avail. I have looped the DVI of the Radeon into the daughter card. The Toshiba functions as a monitor - I see the windows desktop and the MyHD screen, but the screen is blank -- the computer monitor display both and the MyHD screen functions fine there. What am I missing here??

Anybody able to shed some light on the lack of Video?

Thanks

japolt

05-30-05, 08:29 AM

But there are 2 things still bother me. 1st why my wireless keyborad & mice won't work when I am 15ft away from my pc.... :p need to search for a good one! ne1 can suggest me which one to get!

Try the gyration ultra GT. A bit pricey, but I think worth it. Great range, unique air mouse (w rechargeable NiMH). I love the small keyboard.

Shaner1

05-30-05, 09:27 AM

Same here...wonder what is causing them on Shaner1's set.

The tech that came out said it was dust on the optical block. He said that sometimes the components on the inside aren't sealed up as good as they should be but that Toshiba usually does a good job with that.

DutchDave

05-31-05, 07:38 AM

toenail

05-31-05, 08:23 AM

I'm curious about user adjustable color/tint on my 52HM94. I've got the DVD, and analog inputs set up to my liking but am still fiddling with HD over component from 6412 STB. I'm almost perfect but have a bit of an issue with red and green. Some greens seem a bit toward yellow and some reds seem a bit toward pink. Fleshtones are spot on and all other colors are excellent.

Current settings for that input are;
contrast 50
brightness 50
color 38
tint -15
sharp 0
temp nuetral

I tried temp at warm and couldn't even get close. I noticed that bringing contrast down helped the green and red both get a bit darker and more true. Just curious if there is any other adjusment I can make without going into the service menu that would help the reds and greens.

Also curious if different cameras/broadcasts are done at different settings, or if there is a standard in the industry. For example, NESN HD Red Sox can be almost prefect, then ESPN HD ballgame seems like colors are off a bit.

toenail

05-31-05, 08:26 AM

I just upgraded from a 52HMX94 to a 62HMX94 (long story). I have an LG DVD player model LGDVB418. I had it hooked up to the 52 using HDMI and the picture looked great. Now when I use the HDMI connection on the 62 the picture looks like a low color PC. It reminds me up setting the color palate to 256 colors on my PC desktop. If I switch over to component then the picture looks great. I can tell right from the time the DVD player is turned on that the colors are not right. The intro screen looks blotchy also. An yes, I've tried all of the resolution settings while using HDMI. They all look similar.

I've attached a sample screen shot from the Incredibles while using HDMI. I hope I added it correctly. If not, I'll post another message and try it again.

Dave

When I first turned on my TV I saw a lot off that (component input though). Not sure if it was break-in time or adjusting the contrast/bright/color etc for that input but it has gone away. Is your HDMI input still set at factory default or have you changed it? Seems like my TV has a much less difficult time rendering color gradations when all the user adjustable settings are optomized.

DutchDave

05-31-05, 09:14 AM

When I first turned on my TV I saw a lot off that (component input though). Not sure if it was break-in time or adjusting the contrast/bright/color etc for that input but it has gone away. Is your HDMI input still set at factory default or have you changed it? Seems like my TV has a much less difficult time rendering color gradations when all the user adjustable settings are optomized.

I was unaware that there were any video settings you could change for the HDMI connection. I know there are audio HMDI settings. So guess it is still factory default. I just don't recall having to set anything special when I hooked it up to my old 52HMX94 set.

Dave

kdog044

05-31-05, 11:42 AM

I was unaware that there were any video settings you could change for the HDMI connection. I know there are audio HMDI settings. So guess it is still factory default. I just don't recall having to set anything special when I hooked it up to my old 52HMX94 set.

DaveEach input has separate video settings (i.e. color, contrast, brightness, tint, sharpness) that you can adjust when you are using that input.

Julio Bro!

05-31-05, 11:56 AM

Where do you get good quality HDMI cables at reasonable prices (as in less expensive than Monster's) on-line?

Just looking for a cable...

DutchDave

05-31-05, 12:34 PM

Each input has separate video settings (i.e. color, contrast, brightness, tint, sharpness) that you can adjust when you are using that input.

Yes, I was aware of those but none of them affect the picture resolution.

Dave

Magliocchino

05-31-05, 12:57 PM

I also have noticed what appears to be a smudge during light background scenes. When I go to clean the screen, nothing is there. It also is not always present, which seems odd if it is caused by dust somewhere inside - you would think you would always be able to see it.

Other miscellaneous notes - I have been using the HDMI input for satellite TV (Dish). I have had no issues and do think the picture is slightly better than the component input.

I also turned off the progressive setting on my Panasoniv 578A DVD player. The picture seems clearer suggesting the TV does a better job with the progressive scan thing than the player.

These are unscientific observations...

Anthony

Starc

05-31-05, 02:35 PM

Just looking for a cable...

Forum sponsor RAM has quality HDMI cables with special price for AVS members, click the banner on top of the forum page and just do a search on their site for AVS then you find the powerbuy. I personally use the one which came with my equipment and not a RAM cable but I only heard good things from other forum members regarding these.
There is a ebay store as well which sells HDMI cables pre tested for a good price, which got a lot of good reviews.
A forum search will give you more details.

kdog044

05-31-05, 03:54 PM

Yes, I was aware of those but none of them affect the picture resolution.

DaveDave, I have the same set and don't have the problem with my Sony DVP-NS975V using HDMI. I would check the cable first. Also, what is the player set for? I'm using 720p with the Sony and I am very pleased with the PQ over HDMI.

toenail

05-31-05, 04:10 PM

Yes, I was aware of those but none of them affect the picture resolution.

Dave

You're right that "resolution" as defined by number of vert/hor lines doesn't change, but the sets ability to resolve color gradations seems related to those adjustments. For example, if I watch Incredibles on my DVD player with the factory "SPORTS" setting over component input I get similar banding and break-up. After fine tuning with Avia and then tweaking by eye I can virtually eliminate any artifacting. May not be the solution in your case but worked for me.

Julio Bro!

05-31-05, 06:49 PM

Forum sponsor RAM has quality HDMI cables with special price for AVS members, click the banner on top of the forum page and just do a search on their site for AVS then you find the powerbuy. I personally use the one which came with my equipment and not a RAM cable but I only heard good things from other forum members regarding these.
There is a ebay store as well which sells HDMI cables pre tested for a good price, which got a lot of good reviews.
A forum search will give you more details.

Thanks Starc, just the kind of answer I was looking for.

kdog044

06-01-05, 08:50 AM

Forum sponsor RAM has quality HDMI cables with special price for AVS members, click the banner on top of the forum page and just do a search on their site for AVS then you find the powerbuy. I didn't know about the special pricing but I did buy my cables from RAM. They are very good quality and I am pleased with their performance. I'm sure you can find cheaper cables but typically the construction reflects that. I try to find a balance between good quality and decent prices.

imitty

06-01-05, 09:50 AM

Hello all,
In regard to the fan noise, the DLP engine fan did turn off but I heard a low pitch humming noise sound like a small fan noise, e.g. computer fan, from the set and this fan doesn't turned off. I've the 52HM94 which come with TV Guide On Screen so I'm guessing that there is a board in the set that has to be on 24/7 to receive TV Guide signal and this is the board that has the fan. Can any 52HM94 or 52HMX94 owners confirm? Thanks!

Hoops2U

06-01-05, 09:51 AM

Where do you get good quality HDMI cables at reasonable prices (as in less expensive than Monster's) on-line?

Julio: Here are some other options-

http://www.svideo.com/hdmicable.html

www.hdtvsupply.com

monoprice.com

bluejeancables.com

pacificcable.com

AVcable.com

FYI, my local Comcast office provided it for free - doesn't get any cheaper than that.

Julio Bro!

06-01-05, 11:07 AM

Hey Hoops2U, I've been to many of those, but RAM's and the pre-tested from e-Bay look very good and well priced.

I would like to know more about the one from e-Bay, cause there's no brand attached to them. I'm asking the guy in charge, but if anyone has experienced them I would appreciate the review.

sd5444

06-01-05, 12:08 PM

Hello everyone, I have been reading this forum for the last several months and I have decided to buy a Toshiba DLP. Unfortunitely, I have learned from Toshiba's website and from other posts in this forum that my room is too small for a 52'' screen. I see Toshiba has a 46HM84 and 94 but no HMX's. Has anyone seen or own one of these sets that they can give me their opinion on? Is the PQ as good as the 52's?

DutchDave

06-01-05, 12:08 PM

Dave, I have the same set and don't have the problem with my Sony DVP-NS975V using HDMI. I would check the cable first. Also, what is the player set for? I'm using 720p with the Sony and I am very pleased with the PQ over HDMI.

I've played around with the resolution settings on th DVD player. The picture looks about the same from setting to setting.

I talked to Toshiba yesterday. They had no answer at the time. I'm getting a DVR box through Charter on Friday. (I had many problems with the cable card, TV Guide on my old TV. I also dumped the Symbio. Not as flexible as the cable DVR and not too useful when the TV Guide is not working.) Toshiba said to try the HDMI connection when I get the DVR unit. If I have the same problem then it's probably a bad port. I'm guessing a bad port since I did not have this issue with the 52HMX94.

Dave

kdog044

06-01-05, 01:21 PM

Toshiba said to try the HDMI connection when I get the DVR unit. If I have the same problem then it's probably a bad port. I'm guessing a bad port since I did not have this issue with the 52HMX94.

DaveDave, your set has two HDMI inputs. Have you tried both to see if the problem is the same? Also, it is possible for a cable to go bad so I would also try another cable if you can find one locally that can be returned.

DutchDave

06-01-05, 02:24 PM

Dave, your set has two HDMI inputs. Have you tried both to see if the problem is the same? Also, it is possible for a cable to go bad so I would also try another cable if you can find one locally that can be returned.

Yes, same situation on both inputs.

I purchased the cable online so it would not be easy to return. It worked the previous day on the old TV so it would be quite a coincidence if it went bad.

I'm going to see what it does on the cable box this Friday before I try anything further.

Dave

asacks

06-01-05, 02:44 PM

Hi all,

I posted last week saying I had purchased the Toshiba 52HM84 and yesterday it (finally, although only a week, felt like forever) arrived. First off, this is a BIG set, I guess it looks bigger in my apartment than it did on the showroom floor of the brick and morter store I saw it in...but hey, that's the general idea, right?! (It's a big leap from 27 to 52").

Second, the picture quality out of the box I found was better than most sets I've played with. While obviously too bright and the contrast was too high, it still looked damn good. I have it hooked up to a SA 8300HD High Def. DVR cable box through component inputs and a Panny S77 HDMI Upconverting DVD player. Now, the High Def. blew me away, especially channels like Discovery HD (although I mostly watched the NBA game on TNT HD, which was pretty good, but not really as good as Discovery HD or even ESPN HD which was showing baseball---I think ESPNHD was better because it was 720P, but Discovery is 1080i, so go figure).

The second thing I did was plug in Empire Strikes Back to use the THX screen tests---this definitely improved PQ, nice to see Blacker than Black passed by DVD player, etc., and I watched a bit of star wars---this really blew me away. I thought the difference b/w this HDMI DVD and watching a DVD on my parents' 55" Mitsubishi CRT RP was HUGE---now this set may be better, but it can't be THAT much better, this thing seemed as good as Star Wars will ever look given the age of the films.

Can't wait to get home tonight to play with it more, but in the meantime, I have a question (no, this isn't just me raving about my awesome set which you all already know is awesome)---does anyone using a Scientific Atlanta cable box have an opinion about whether to let the box convert everything to 720P or whether to let it pass the signals in their native format and allow the TV to do the conversions (especially 1080i, but curious about SD too). The box seems to let you pass any variety of signals, (E.g., only 720p, or 720p and 1080i, or you can let it pass all formats). Any feedback on what others do in this area would be much appreciated.

Hope others are enjoying their Tosh DLP's as much as me---to my mind, and yes, now I'm clearly biased, the best deal on big screen HDTV currently on the market (get HD2+ for HD3 money, DLP as cheap as LCD projection---or cheaper!, etc.).

--Sclaws

06-01-05, 03:56 PM

Figured I'd share this with anyone interested...

Last night I was messing around with the HDNet calibration patterns..specifically the last 4min with the resolution chart. I have the 921 connected via component and HDMI and noticed a few interesting differences in quality.

Best output mode: 1080i out w/HDMI
- The V/H lines throughout the screen indicated a solid 700+ resolution and colors were accurate (what few there are on this screen) without bleeding. Sharpness set to '0' had no impact (no artificial softening) on perceived resolution.

VERY CLOSE 2nd place: 1080i out w/Component
- Virtually the same results as HDMI with one big difference--along the top of the screen (where the color bar samples are) was a faint, purple horizontal 'bleed' on both sides of the bar matching the height of the color bar strip. It was dim, but definitely there. I switched from component to HDMI multiple times and this anomaly was only present with component in. I don't think this is a cable issue, but I did not have another set of cables on-hand to try.

3rd place: TIE 720p out w/Component and HDMI
- While resolution seemed to appear to be around 700, I did see horizontal shifting in the reference image at that resolution point where the 1080i was rock solid. I'm not sure why, but I think this might be due to the 921 and how it upconverts 1080i (HDnet) to 720p...possibly dropping every other field? I have to default to the experts interpretation on that issue. Sharpness again seemed appropriate at '0' as I saw no loss in resolution.

Bottom line (and point of this post) is with my 52HM84 and an E*921, best results occurred by allowing the Toshiba to convert 1080i to 720p...NOT letting the 921 deal with the conversion.

Take for what its worth ;)