Having never hooked an XBox up to an HDTV before, I ran into a problem where the component cable I had brought (a Mad Catz PS2/XBox cable) wouldn't pass anything above 480p. This was with playing Halo 2, which I'm almost 100% sure works in 720p if not 1080i. One of the guys at the store said that you need to have the HD pack from Microsoft to get 720p or 1080i to work. Not sure if this is true, but I was disappointed nonetheless. I really wanted to see this game at the resolution it was meant to be played in.



Congratulations! You did! Nothing wrong with your cables...Halo 2 is only 480p.

Quick question regarding the 52HM95 and the 52HMX95: Is it worth the money to have the second hdmi input on the HMX or could I get the HM95 and then buy another hdmi input/adapter? Not sure how much those cost. From my research, there is an average of $250 or so price difference between the sets. And yes I do want two hdmi inputs but not sure the best way to get it. Thanks and I apologize for the lame question,….As far as I know BOTH of these sets have 2 HDMI inputs. That used to be a difference between the HM and HMX's in the 2004 model year but not anymore. The biggest differences in this years models are the addition of PC input, THINC connection, and all black design of the HMX series.

See the spec sheets under the resource tab for each product below.

HMX
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=52HMX95

HM
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=52HM95

I went and looked at a Toshiba DLP 52HMX84 today (Canadian version of the U.S. 52HMX94) and I was disappointed big time!. The noise/grain on the set was unbelieveable from 15 feet away. Even with sharpness on 0. The picture was slighly green and the overscan was whack on it. The noisey picture was enough for me to exclude it for purchase. High Def had a noisey picture also. LCD TV's I find are a lot sharper. I checked out a SONY LCD KF50WE620 and its not even this years A10 Sony model. The picture quality was excellent. I am going the LCD way if I replace my current Panasonic 53TW53 CRT RPTV. I might just stick with my CRT RPTV, but if I don't it will be LCD all the way for now. I realize this is all preference between DLP and LCD and both have their ups and downs, but to me and a few of my friends that work at electronic stores all said they prefered LCD and I can see why.
Wow...

I'm still on the fence about what set to get.but it most DEFINITELY wouldn't be a WE series Sony...there is practically no definition in dark areas whatsoever...sure it doesn't have any graininess...that's because it also has no image detail

Congratulations! You did! Nothing wrong with your cables...Halo 2 is only 480p.

Wow... all I can say is that all you people that I've read who have ranted and raved over how sweet Halo 2 looks on these HD sets need to get a real computer and see what real game graphics can look like.

I had assumed that the low-res, aliased, jagged crappiness was a result of not being able to output at the resolution that the rest of you have seen this game at. I guess that's just the way it looks all the time.

I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, but I don't understand how Halo 2 is the game that always gets brought up when people talk about how sweet XBox looks over component on a HD set.

Thanks for the info garciab!

Wow... all I can say is that all you people that I've read who have ranted and raved over how sweet Halo 2 looks on these HD sets need to get a real computer and see what real game graphics can look like.

I had assumed that the low-res, aliased, jagged crappiness was a result of not being able to output at the resolution that the rest of you have seen this game at. I guess that's just the way it looks all the time.

I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, but I don't understand how Halo 2 is the game that always gets brought up when people talk about how sweet XBox looks over component on a HD set.

Thanks for the info garciab!

There is certainly NO comparison between an XBOX game and PC based games graphically such as F.E.A.R., Half Life 2, Doom 3, etc. The comparison at this point really isn't a fair one. A closer comparison will be a PC game versus the XBOX 360, however as always this will change in a few years as PC hardware goes through several cycles. Halo 2 does look great on a 52" DLP compared to a 27" (non HD) CRT. Game on playas.

I have a Toshiba 62HMX85 (62HMX95 is the US product #) The colour looks great from a few feet away, but when I get right up to the screen I can see "noise" all over the place which is more pronounced in the darker parts of the picture. If you have seen one of these models up close, you will know what I mean. Is this something that others are noticing, or is it a problem with my unit? Or could it be a by product of the wobulated chip.
Any feed back would be great

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=52hm95

TALEN™
Definition: Toshiba Advanced Light Engine is proprietary light engine technology, designed and built by Toshiba, for Toshiba. TALEN™ utilizes advanced optics, and step-up TI HD2+ DLP™ Chip, to create Toshiba’s outstanding picture quality.

if you go to the website and hit the benifit button it says hd2+ chip and under it specs it says it has talen and talen is toshibas way of saying hd2+ chip

and yes HD2+ chip is better then 3 when looking for a dlp that is not 1080p get one with the hd+ chip

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/news/052305toshiba/

If you actually read this thread (copious amounts of coffee indicated), you would find that it was determined long ago that the HM95 uses the wombulated chip (aka HD4). Any current owner can determine this for themselves just by looking at the pixel structure. Please do not bring up an old issue that has been hashed over quite thoroughly.

I have a Toshiba 62HMX85 (62HMX95 is the US product #) The colour looks great from a few feet away, but when I get right up to the screen I can see "noise" all over the place which is more pronounced in the darker parts of the picture. If you have seen one of these models up close, you will know what I mean. Is this something that others are noticing, or is it a problem with my unit? Or could it be a by product of the wobulated chip.
Any feed back would be great

Thats just the HLGLN feature. You can bypass it simply by pressing the "Power" button on your remote, however this also prevents one from actually watching their set. :(




HLGLN = Horrible Lower Gray Level Noise

POS = Piece Of ****

I have a Toshiba 62HMX85 (62HMX95 is the US product #) The colour looks great from a few feet away, but when I get right up to the screen I can see "noise" all over the place which is more pronounced in the darker parts of the picture. If you have seen one of these models up close, you will know what I mean. Is this something that others are noticing, or is it a problem with my unit? Or could it be a by product of the wobulated chip.
Any feed back would be great

Walk up close to any DLP and you will see the same thing. When I was shopping for sets a few months back I was taken aback by this after seeing it on Sammy, Toshiba, Mits etc. After I realised that they all did it and that to an extent it could be minimized with properly set user adjustables, I stopped worrying about it. It's not visible to me from my viewing distance of 8-9 feet except on very specific material.

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/news/052305toshiba/

If you actually read this thread (copious amounts of coffee indicated), you would find that it was determined long ago that the HM95 uses the wombulated chip (aka HD4). Any current owner can determine this for themselves just by looking at the pixel structure. Please do not bring up an old issue that has been hashed over quite thoroughly.


I will bring it up, because toshiba is saying one thing and this website is saying an other, I will opt to beleive toshiba over an other site and if they mislead me and sold me a wrong product I will make sure I get ahold of toshiba and try switch out my set.

Does the Toshiba still have the grey letter boxing bars?

Does the Toshiba still have the grey letter boxing bars?

The side pillar bars are now black, to match the new black trim around the screen.

Walk up close to any DLP and you will see the same thing. When I was shopping for sets a few months back I was taken aback by this after seeing it on Sammy, Toshiba, Mits etc. After I realised that they all did it and that to an extent it could be minimized with properly set user adjustables, I stopped worrying about it. It's not visible to me from my viewing distance of 8-9 feet except on very specific material.

Different issue all together.
There is a detectable amount of noise visible from even the best HD signal and this is pretty evident in all displays, as it is the amount of data and processing of the signal that is really at fault here.
However, the toshiba HM95/85 seem to have a specific issue with noise in the lower gray scale levels. This is quite easy to detect when you have an HTPC hooked up, as you can simply use a test pattern. You can also detect this issue by "freezing" the picture from a normal feed, HD or whatever. The inherent processing noise will stop in its tracks, but the lower gray scale noise will not be effected by freezing the picture, and therefore it will be quite evident within the frozen frame.

I will bring it up, because toshiba is saying one thing and this website is saying an other, I will opt to beleive toshiba over an other site and if they mislead me and sold me a wrong product I will make sure I get ahold of toshiba and try switch out my set.

You can examine the pixel structure and determine this for yourself, so what is your point?

Different issue all together.
There is a detectable amount of noise visible from even the best HD signal and this is pretty evident in all displays, as it is the amount of data and processing of the signal that is really at fault here.
However, the toshiba HM95/85 seem to have a specific issue with noise in the lower gray scale levels. This is quite easy to detect when you have an HTPC hooked up, as you can simply use a test pattern. You can also detect this issue by "freezing" the picture from a normal feed, HD or whatever. The inherent processing noise will stop in its tracks, but the lower gray scale noise will not be effected by freezing the picture, and therefore it will be quite evident within the frozen frame.

I don't doubt that there are lower greyscale noise issues with these sets, that point has been documented previously. I see it if I look for it and it shows up on DVD transfers big time. I'm just not sure that this is what jayray was seeing. When I was shopping and compared plasma panels/LCD panels/LCD RP/DLP RP I consistently found a "noise" issue on only the DLPs and on all brands. It didn't exist in the same images shown on any of the other technologies, leading me to believe that it wasn't part of the feed. It also wasn't visible to the naked eye from about 6-8 feet away on the DLPs which is what lead me to overlook this issue when making my purchase decision.

Can the Speakers be removed from the sides of the Toshiba 52HM95? It's the ONLY thing keeping me from ordering one... :(

Can the Speakers be removed from the sides of the Toshiba 52HM95? It's the ONLY thing keeping me from ordering one... :(

No

Can the Speakers be removed from the sides of the Toshiba 52HM95? It's the ONLY thing keeping me from ordering one... :(
If you dislike the speakers try the 1080P model TOSHIBA 56MX195.

Planetdtv has a great deal and it's a looker with thin black bezel and speakers below. Cannot link as it would violate forum rules. I'm thinking of the 62" as it's a great value and I really like it's look if it can come close to the SXRD - would like to see in store and they should be released within the next few weeks.

They listed for expected arrival of 9/30 by Crutchfield (they delayed my sxrd pre-order 3 times so I put it on hold - so this date could change also) but they are selling them at msrp and they refuse to price match (as usual). Crutch is great for research but are not very competitive pricewise.

P.S. - Folks that are speaking of "Gray Bars"? Are they present with all 4:3? I have a Sharp LCD FP 16:9 and I have a few stations that are gray barred but all the others are black - I also find the gray annoying but I'd thought these were determined by the broadcaster. Wouldn't the TV take the broadcasters signal as is - how can it invoke the gray bars onto it otherwise all mine would be gray and they aren't. As burn-in doesn't exist in LCD FP my tv's default would be black but yet I get the gray from the broadcaster not my TV. Isn't the broadcaster forcing the 4:3 gray bars rather than the TV? CBS is a big time violater of this - perhaps their CEO owns a plasma and perhaps we watch gray for all the plasma owners - as they are designed to prevent plasma burn-in. I only ask as I would not consider a set that invoked them all as gray as it is rather annoying. Thanks!

Good Luck :D

If you dislike the speakers try the 1080P model TOSHIBA 56MX195.

Planetdtv has a great deal and it's a looker with thin black bezel and speakers below. Cannot link as it would violate forum rules. I'm thinking of the 62" as it's a great value and I really like it's look if it can come close to the SXRD - would like to see in store and they should be released within the next few weeks.

They listed for expected arrival of 9/30 by Crutchfield (they delayed my sxrd pre-order 3 times so I put it on hold - so this date could change also) but they are selling them at msrp and they refuse to price match (as usual). Crutch is great for research but are not very competitive pricewise.

P.S. - Folks that are speaking of "Gray Bars"? Are they present with all 4:3? I have a Sharp LCD FP 16:9 and I have a few stations that are gray barred but all the others are black - I also find the gray annoying but I'd thought these were determined by the broadcaster. Wouldn't the TV take the broadcasters signal as is - how can it invoke the gray bars onto it otherwise all mine would be gray and they aren't. As burn-in doesn't exist in LCD FP my tv's default would be black but yet I get the gray from the broadcaster not my TV. Isn't the broadcaster forcing the 4:3 gray bars rather than the TV? CBS is a big time violater of this - perhaps their CEO owns a plasma and perhaps we watch gray for all the plasma owners - as they are designed to prevent plasma burn-in. I only ask as I would not consider a set that invoked them all as gray as it is rather annoying. Thanks!

Good Luck :D

On the mx195's are the speakers on the bottom black also or are they gray/silver like the non-cinema series? The best looking one in my opinion is the 62HMX95, all black, yet it's 720p not 1080p.

Last month i bought a Toshiba 52HMX84, and I've been happy with it with one caveat. Whenever the screen is mostly or all white (such as the end of some commercials or while watching golf when the camera follows the ball into the sky), the image begins shaking violently laterally. If the white image lasts, the tv seems to lose the input altogether and goes to a black screen. Image is restored in a few seconds after the white image is no longer being transmitted. Has anyone else experienced this problem and know of a solution? I have all input for the TV coming over component cables, and this happens during both regular and HD broadcasts.

I saw the the Toshiba 62 HM95 in Best Buy and loved its PQ. Unfortunately, its too wide for where I want to place my new HDTV (67 inches). I just found out that Toshiba has a 62 HM 195 which according to the specs looks even better and is only about 57 inches wide. Can anybody give me some feedback on the 62 HM195 before I have to buy it online sight unseen? Is there any major differences b/t the 62 HM 195 and the 62 HM 95. Thanks!!

When I try to enable stereo decoding for my video inputs, the MTS menu is greyed out.

When I select the antenna input (which has nothing connected) I CAN select Stereo.

Is this a problem (the set is new) or is the greyed out reflective of the separated nature of the audio input via the rca jacks?

Thanks,

Bill

I just purchased a 52HMX84 and really like the set. However I was thinking of upgrading to the 62HMX84. When I went back to the store (Brandsmart in FL) they told me that Toshiba had recalled the units and thus they had shipped all their 62HMX84's back to Toshiba. They said that the problem did not affect the 52's. Anyone have any further info on this?

I saw the the Toshiba 62 HM95 in Best Buy and loved its PQ. Unfortunately, its too wide for where I want to place my new HDTV (67 inches). I just found out that Toshiba has a 62 HM 195 which according to the specs looks even better and is only about 57 inches wide. Can anybody give me some feedback on the 62 HM195 before I have to buy it online sight unseen? Is there any major differences b/t the 62 HM 195 and the 62 HM 95. Thanks!!

The HM95 models are 720p sets (1280 x 720) and the HM195's are the new 1080p resolution sets (1920 x 1080). The 1080p sets have the speakers underneath the screen and not off to the side like the HM95's.

You can go to most online e-tailers and see the 62HM195 sets. The certainly are lookers! good luck,

-bruce

Hi:

I received my new S77 and, although I had some experience with a friend's S97, I still want to learn about some features before testing on my 52HM84.

* What changes when using the Dialog Enhancer? Is it a good thing to use?

* On the same focus, what about Depth Enhancer?

* After "initial setting" and AVIA, is it good to activate the Auto AV Enhancer?

* HDMI Color Space and RGB Range are 2 different features, related to the same technology. I understand why 4:4:4 is recommended, but not why Enhanced RGB. Shouldn't Standard RGB seem a more "natural" setting?

* I thought Multi Re-Master would have an auto setting, but this seems to only happen with the Auto AV Enhancer. So, what is the difference between the Re-Master's settings?

Has anyone played with these features?

The MX195 is on the Toshiba web site where you can get specs and pics.

The strange part is I spoke with the company and the representative said there is a good chance the mx195 would be all black including the speakers. He also said he could not confirm that at 100%. He said the picture on the site may be a older picture to provide a general idea. He could not say for sure, so I was asking just to see if anyone had further insight. It would make sense since they usually do something different cosmetically to differentiate the cinema series from the standard. Thanks though

I brought this up on another thread and it didn’t get answered. I have the opportunity to buy a 52HMX84 at a really good closeout price, brand new, etc. I went and did my homework and checked out the HM95’s and even the HM195 which did look nice. Now however I have not witnessed the 84 series in action and after reading every single page of this thread it made me lean more towards the 84 as opposed to the 94 (don’t need the integrated tuner) and the hd-2+ chip over the wobbled H4 of the 95 series. I did see the 46HM94 (hd2+) at Costco and that picture to me was way better than the 46HM95(hd4) that I just got done viewing at best buy. So I’m unsure if I should pull the trigger. Very indecisive as you can tell.

My reason with going with the 52HMX84 is the fact the chip is the popular hd-2+, the two hdmi ports and the fact I can get it at a good price and the favorable reviews provide by most in this thread. Also, the way this technology is always improving I don’t feel like I will get burned (not spending several $$$ on this set) and I can enjoy this set for a few years then once the 1080P mess is settled I can upgrade. Is there a reason any one can provide me of why I should not by this set? Thanks and I appreciate all your help!

Mark

Hello,
I have had my 46hm84 for a month now, and have calibrated with Avia. I am getting horrible artifacts in fast moving scenes, and on faces in particular. Anytime there is quick movement I feel like there are horrible artifacts and blurring. Is there something I am missing or is this common on this unit. My system is:
46hm84
Comcast DVR box(forget the model, 6412 maybe) connected via component
Oppo connected via hdmi to dvi
then all my audio which should not affect the picture.

If anyone could give me some insight it would be greatly appreciated as it is getting unbearable to watch. Thanks in advance.

Kali

Well, I took the plunge and purchased the Toshiba 62 HM 195 from BuyDig earlier today. Good price (Just under $3K and no shipping cost. I also went for the 3yr extended warranty with bulb replacement). The only thing I didn't get yet was the Tosh stand for this model because it was 67" in width whereas the TV itself is only 57". I'm putting the TV in a corner of my den where 67" is going to be too long. Can somebody recommend a good stand for the 62 HM 195 that will only be as long as the width of the TV. Maybe something with a swivel but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!!

I also took the plunge and ordered the 52HMX84 brand new for $1700 shipped. Can't wait!!

Well, I took the plunge and purchased the Toshiba 62 HM 195 from BuyDig earlier today. Good price (Just under $3K and no shipping cost. I also went for the 3yr extended warranty with bulb replacement). The only thing I didn't get yet was the Tosh stand for this model because it was 67" in width whereas the TV itself is only 57". I'm putting the TV in a corner of my den where 67" is going to be too long. Can somebody recommend a good stand for the 62 HM 195 that will only be as long as the width of the TV. Maybe something with a swivel but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!!

Hey could you (and any other 62MX195 owners) let us know your thoughts (both good and bad) on the new TV?

Thanks.

Hi all,

I have spoken to several people at Toshiba (UK) and was told that the lamp for

model 46WM48P is obsolete. Has my TV is only 8 months old I find this very
worrying.

I was also told by David Tindal at Toshiba that this lamp is used by all
the UK models :confused:

Does anyone have any advice on this?

Hi all,

I have spoken to several people at Toshiba (UK) and was told that the lamp for

model 46WM48P is obsolete. Has my TV is only 8 months old I find this very
worrying.

I was also told by David Tindal at Toshiba that this lamp is used by all
the UK models :confused:

Does anyone have any advice on this?

George,

I'm in the US but was also concerned about the lamps since they switched to a different watt bulb in the new 85/95 models. I'm not in the UK and can't comment on your situation, although I have the same type concerns.

I wonder if it will be hard to get a bulb for these TV's now that they switched to a different bulb. Would it be possible to use the new bulb in the old TVs? hmmm....

Hey could you (and any other 62MX195 owners) let us know your thoughts (both good and bad) on the new TV?

Thanks.

Yes, absolutely. I may not be able to give you in depth technical analysis given my knowledge level of HDTV's. However I did extensive research on many web-sites including this forum and made several trips to local retailers comparing the Sony 55 and 60 XS series vs the Toshiba 62 HM 95. Nevertheless I'll post my observations after I get the shipment next week. Now I just need a stand.

Just received my new Tosh 62HMX the other day. Calibrated last night with DVE, seems to be much better. One thing I did notice since I calibrated at 720p through HDMI on my Samsung 850 is that the sharpness control has no effect. There is a red push on this DLP, but it can be corrected through the standard user menus using the filters with DVE. Even though some of the preset picture modes are pretty close, the cal disc does a lot to make this great RPTV even better, blacks are pretty much the same as CRT. The only thing I can say negative about this TV is that anything less than it's native res looks awful. Standard TV or even 480p DVD's look grainy, out of focus and you can see every flaw. No rainbow effects noted.

BTW, I am sitting about 7 feet from this tv currently, and it is great at that distance after cal with upconverted DVD, with HDTV feeds it is excellent. I was looking at the 52" model and am glad I went bigger. Very happy overall.

George,

I'm in the US but was also concerned about the lamps since they switched to a different watt bulb in the new 85/95 models. I'm not in the UK and can't comment on your situation, although I have the same type concerns.

I wonder if it will be hard to get a bulb for these TV's now that they switched to a different bulb. Would it be possible to use the new bulb in the old TVs? hmmm....
Its very difficult to get any usefull info from Toshiba cust services, but I will let you
know if I do. Thanks for your comments.

When I split the over air antenna, connecting the two coaxial cables to the ant.1 & the ant.2 on the rear of the unit.
I can get HD channels on ant.1 but I can only get analog channels on ant.2
Ant.2 having an onscreen message stating something about a low digital signal when trying HD.
Is this normal and there anyway to get around this, so that I can watch both in a split screen (NFL / NASCAR)

OK. I just connected a Motorola DCT6412 to my 62HMX84 using a DVI-D to HDMI cable. I've got a picture for about 5 seconds and then the screen goes black. This happens on both the HDMI inputs. Component works fine. Any thoughts??

When I split the over air antenna, connecting the two coaxial cables to the ant.1 & the ant.2 on the rear of the unit.
I can get HD channels on ant.1 but I can only get analog channels on ant.2
Ant.2 having an onscreen message stating something about a low digital signal when trying HD.
Is this normal and there anyway to get around this, so that I can watch both in a split screen (NFL / NASCAR)

You can't simultaneously use ANT 1 and ANT 2 with the split screen feature.

Yes, absolutely. I may not be able to give you in depth technical analysis given my knowledge level of HDTV's. However I did extensive research on many web-sites including this forum and made several trips to local retailers comparing the Sony 55 and 60 XS series vs the Toshiba 62 HM 95. Nevertheless I'll post my observations after I get the shipment next week. Now I just need a stand.

Thanks RW, look forward to your observations :)

After not having any success with hooking up my Moto 6412 to my 62HMX84 via DVI-HDMI, I swapped back to component. Now it seems that the STB has lost aspect control. The HD channels are are being displayed in letterbox between the gray side bars. I've tried resetting the TV by powering down and unplugging for about 10 minutes. Still the same. I also powered down and unplugged the STB. Same results. This is not the way it was before I tried to swap inputs. Any ideas to what got messed up?

Well, I took the plunge and purchased the Toshiba 62 HM 195 from BuyDig earlier today. Good price (Just under $3K and no shipping cost. I also went for the 3yr extended warranty with bulb replacement). The only thing I didn't get yet was the Tosh stand for this model because it was 67" in width whereas the TV itself is only 57". I'm putting the TV in a corner of my den where 67" is going to be too long. Can somebody recommend a good stand for the 62 HM 195 that will only be as long as the width of the TV. Maybe something with a swivel but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!!


What did they told you on the delivery? Did you see an actual set before ordering?

I ordered the MX last August, number one on the list, and to now, I'm still waiting. Last update from Ultimate is by Oct 6.

I hope you'll get yours quickly. Enjoy. Give us a review.

OK. I just connected a Motorola DCT6412 to my 62HMX84 using a DVI-D to HDMI cable. I've got a picture for about 5 seconds and then the screen goes black. This happens on both the HDMI inputs. Component works fine. Any thoughts??

It sounds like a digital protection issue. Could be the firmware on your Motorola.

After not having any success with hooking up my Moto 6412 to my 62HMX84 via DVI-HDMI, I swapped back to component. Now it seems that the STB has lost aspect control. The HD channels are are being displayed in letterbox between the gray side bars. I've tried resetting the TV by powering down and unplugging for about 10 minutes. Still the same. I also powered down and unplugged the STB. Same results. This is not the way it was before I tried to swap inputs. Any ideas to what got messed up?

The aspect you described above reminds me of HD channel shown through composite or s-video. Are you sure you have selected the proper input on the TV for the component cables from your STB and that your STB is set to output HD to either 720p or 1080i? Did you check the aspect ratio setting in the STB menu after you powered down?

I know this has been posted before, but I can't find it. Do you set your STB at 1080 and let your TV do the down coversion to 720? Or set the box at 720? Thanks

Does anyone know if the original bulbs on these units could have been defective? I've had my unit 13 months (out of warranty by 32 days), but the owner's manual states approximately 8,000 hrs on LOW POWER and 6,000 hrs on HI BRIGHT. This unit has been used maybe 3,000 hrs. Has anyone else had this problem?

I've just talked with a local HD repair shop and they stated that that seemed quite early for a lamp to fail. They also mentioned that those lamps are hard to get and that they've always had to go through Toshiba dirrectly to acquire them.

Just wondering!

Bamamusicfan
Huntsville, AL

I know this has been posted before, but I can't find it. Do you set your STB at 1080 and let your TV do the down coversion to 720? Or set the box at 720? Thanks

Yes. You may want to switch STB to 720P when watching a game broadcast in 720P - Fox, ESPN & ABC. I find it helps handle all the motion better, at times. Then switch it back.

Sorry if this has been answered somewhere, but the search function is down. Does anyone know where I might find reviews on the new 1080P series Toshibas? Thanks.

OK. I just connected a Motorola DCT6412 to my 62HMX84 using a DVI-D to HDMI cable. I've got a picture for about 5 seconds and then the screen goes black. This happens on both the HDMI inputs. Component works fine. Any thoughts??I have periodic issues with the DVI>HDMI connection when I switch to the ANT1 input for a while and switch back. First I would make sure the STB is turned on without the TV or the cable connected. Then connect the HDMI cable and try turning on the TV. If the picture disappears try changing to the ANT1 input and then back to the HDMI input. If this doesn't work try turning off the STB with the TV on and set to the HDMI input and then turn the STB back on again. If you finally get the picture make sure you keep the STB turned on and ONLY turn off the TV.

Thanks for the quick reply. The information in that link helps, but what I was really looking for is a review of the performance of the new 1080s. Primarily concerned about rainbows and how well it handles SD from cable.

I seem to recall one or two reviews from members in one of the threads but these 1080p Toshibas are so new that hardly anyone has them yet. My local retailer (Ultimate Electronics) is supposed to be setting up the 60" model on display this week. Do you mean the 62"? There are only three sizes 56", 62" and 72".

Primarily concerned about rainbows and how well it handles SD from cable.
I've had mine for over a week and I have not seen a rainbow. But isn't that a phenom that very few people are likely to see? Reading these forums, one would think that every person writing is part of that very small percentage. Luckily, I did not win that lotto. :)

As far as SD is concerned, it is not very good. If you plan on watching a lot of analog TV, you will be very disappointed. But I was disappointed for 4 years with my 43 in CRT Hitachi. I did not buy this 56HM195 for watching SD. When I watch the news or a SD football game, I keep the 4:3 ratio with black pillars and I back up an extra 5 feet or so. If you are planning on a lot of analog, you would be better off with something else. I try to watch only local channels in their digital upconverted SD format when necessary, and it is acceptable. The analog channels are pathetic when enlarged to 56 inches. I anxiously await Food Channel HD next year, and hope that one of Pittsburgh's news stations convert. That will about eliminate SD entirely for me. My wife still watches soaps and The Today Show. Hopefully they will fall in line also with GMA and The Young and Restless leading the way.

But what a glorious set for HD. What I thought to be "soft focus" HD is really an eye opener on this DLP. The technology is just stunning. Sears should have a DVR of clips connected with HDMI showing network clips. The set looks so much better in my home than in their store.

I throw these questions out knowing there could be like 50 different starting points, but I thought I would give it a shot to see if I could get some help. I put my htpc together awhile ago and bought the ATI AIW 9600 card to go with it. I hooked it up to my new 62hm95 using a composite cable and though it looked bad, I got a picture that I could at least work with. So I thought I would take the next step and buy the VGA to Component adapter for the card and hook it up using component cables instead. Well I set it up for 640x480 and I get nothing...just blank screen. I've tried so many different timings that I dont know which was is up anymore I am ready to call it quits. What I am trying to figure out is that if I can get a picture using a composite cable but nothing with component cables am I right in believing that it isnt a timing or resolution issue, but just that the tv wont accept that signal format over component? I looks like the tv is looking for a 480i signal when I choose the HD input, and I dont know if that is confusing the video card, or if there is a way to force the tv into a different format like 480p or 720p.

My next decision would be to go out and buy a new video card that has DVI so I could go DVI to HDMI, but I havent a clue if the tv would be kosher with that signal either, and dont know if it's worth the money if it isn't going to fix anything. Anything anyone could provide would be much much appreciated. Thanks!

My next decision would be to go out and buy a new video card that has DVI so I could go DVI to HDMI, but I havent a clue if the tv would be kosher with that signal either, and dont know if it's worth the money if it isn't going to fix anything. Anything anyone could provide would be much much appreciated. Thanks![/QUOTE]

I too would like to know about running DVI to HDMI from a PC to a Toshiba DLP. I have a new 52HMX85 (the Can. equivalent of the 52HMX95 in the US - but without the PC/VGA input). Anyone have any info on this? Apparently its supposed to work but I'd like to get some feedback. Toshiba discourages ANY pc usage in their manual but thats prob. so they don't have to field any calls about overscan, etc.

Kared

[QUOTE=wstanko]I've had mine for over a week and I not seen a rainbow. But isn't that a phenom that very few people are likely to see? Reading these forums, one would think that every person writing is part of that very small percentage. Luckily, I did not win that lotto. :)

Yeah before buying my DLP TV in Aug I was MEGA paranoid after reading threads about rainbows, etc. I'm happy to report that I have never seen a single rainbow after a month of watching, nor has my wife or any of my friends. The new series of Toshiba DLPs though now have a faster moving color wheel and white added to the existing 3 colors on the wheel now instead of 3 so it apparently greatly reduces the chances of seeing any rainbow effect.

Kared

Just added Directv HD, Does anyone know the device code for the Directv H10 so that I can program the universal remote or one that will work?
Thanks

I went to Sears as they were the first one in our area (South FL) to have a 56HM195 with the 1080p resolution. As luck would have it they also had a 52HM95 on display next to it, so I was able to compare the two sets. First let me say that the PQ on either is awesome and IMHO was better than any of the other sets they had on display. But the 56hm195 at 1080p was by far the winner. The PQ seems more realistic, detailed and crisp. Initially, the differences are sutle but become more noticable after watching both pictures for a while. The natural tones and blacks on either set looked great. I didn't notice any rainbow effect or ghosting. I couldn't really judge if the newer Black tech made a difference on the 195. I'm not sure what type of signal the Sears setup was generating for input to the 195 (probably a 720p?) but the set did an excellent job in up-converting it to the native 1080p resolution. I feel that 1080p resolution is the way of the future and I wanted a set that would be able to take advantage of the higher resolution.

After looking at the 95 and 195 I decided that I would "pull the trigger" and ordered the 62" model ie. the 62HM195. Sears does not have that model.

I ordered it from www.hideflifestyle.com and got the best price on the internet combined with delivery. Great company to do business with. Talk to Mike if you can. If you go to their site be aware that the description text for the 62HM195 is incorrect and they are correcting it. Their Extended Warranty program is reasonable ($308) for 4 years after the mfgr warranty expires. But if you purchase on a Master or Visa Platinum card it automatically doubles the mfgr warranty at no charge. HiDef's ext warranty can be purchased any time prior to the last 90 day expiration of the mfgr's warrranty. I would probably shop the internet for the extended warranty to find the best deal.

is there a gruop of people who think the 95 series (with the hd4 chip) is better than the 84/94 series with the hd2, or do most people lean to the 84/94.

I just viewed both this morning. The 84 (at boscov's) and the 95 (at BB). I realize it has a lot to do with the quality of the input (they were both fed HD signals), but the 95 at best buy looked better to me. the 84 looked "grainy."

I had the 52hmx84 and thought it had a slightly grain type PQ. It was almost like the screen was dusty. Since it was within the allowed return period, I took the set back and then compared the newer 52hm95 and the just out 56hm195. Decided that both had awesome PQ. I liked the PQ better than the model '84 set that I had just returned and the Sony and the Mit on display next to them. In watching the Tos 95/195's I concluded that the 195 had the better PQ, detail and brighter colors. This is probably due to it's native resolution being 1080p, the 150 watt lamp and the newer Black technology. The differences were sutle but I don't think that the input source was 1080 resolution so the 195 basically was limited to converting the original signal. Based on my comparison, I decided to go ahead and buy a 62hm195 (the technology and size) even though it was more $$. I think the 1080p is the next step in the technologyand bigger is always better - right? For the slight difference in cost at this point it was worthwhile to buy in to it now, since I expect to keep this set around for the 5 years or so. It definitely pays to shop around. I found the set on the internet and wound up with a delivered price on the 62hm195 that was $400 less than the 56hm195 that I was initially looking at in Sears. The set is being delivered today, so I'll give a follow up on the 62hm195 after I've had a chance to live with it a few days. :)

I want to share my experience during the weekend with a Panny S77. Many features are shared with the S97 and it's thread is the best that covers them, so I used it as reference.

I followed most initial settings, but I chose to leave color, sharpness, filters, etc at 0. Saved them in User 1 and then used AVIA for setting the TV. The first thing I noticed with regards to my previous JVC progressive player is that Sharpness was 15 and now is 35, more than double. Maybe it's an inherent thing of my TV's HDMI connection or could be the S77; what do you think?

I had to step up brightness a bit and everything else stayed about the same.

To check, I used the I Robot DVD, which I think offers one of the best transfers with solid contrasts and sharp images. At 720p, the TV's natural, the image is definitely better, without much difference at 1080i. But I like the image to cover most of the screen, so for big ratio movies I'll go with 480p and for smallers 720p, for which the TV locks at FULL.

Could there be a possibility to change the locking feature at that resolution? Or better, let the TV work the image as it does with a 480p signal? I know most prefer the bars, but when I start receiving hi-def thru my cable box, I would be happier if I could get rid of the bars. What do you think?

In general, things look better than with my previous player, and then I tried the Auto AV Enhancer. Things looked even better. I know this is not supposed to be the case, but apparently Panasonic did a good job of cleaning the image without harming color balance.

During Sonny's interrogatory scene, which is a bit dark with lots of shadows, when I compared without the Auto Enhancer, Will Smith's face was a bit grainy. I suppose the digital filters manage to clean up the image and the face looks better with the Enhancer ON.

Also, the Enhancer "lighted" some dark areas, juuust enough to get more definition of Will's face in a darker area of the room. The whole lighting of the scene looked better balanced with the Auto Enhancer.

Because of this, I did the TV calibration with the Auto Enhancer active and check on the differences. The most evident changes were on Black Level and Hue. I had to take black about 2 clicks darker, but Hue went from R2 to R6. I expected a counter balance for Color (Saturation), but surprisingly it only went down 1 click. Everything else I felt was the same.

What I expect the Enhancer is to maintain those levels, as it will apply those dynamics to every DVD. The best thing is that the filters are working all the time, probably correcting things I can't during the whole of a material.

I'm not saying "Everyone, turn your Autos ON", but you know, try it and compare. Maybe it's a good marriage between the Toshiba and the Panny, but maybe their technology approach works.

At this time, I'm satisfied with this player and I recommend both the S97 and S77 for Toshiba HDTV owners. Thanks to Paul from the S97 thread for all the technical advice.

Well, I had an oppurtunity to view both the 62HMX94 (HD2+) and the brand-new 62HMX95 (HD4) side by side this evening. These are the Cinema Series versions of both of these sets. I must say that the new all-black bezel on the HMX95 is a tremendous improvement, the silver bezel is very tacky-looking in comparison.

As far as PQ goes, I spent a good 30 minutes going back and forth between the 2, tweaking the settings here and there, and I can honestly say that the 2 sets have an almost identical PQ to my eyes, which is to say that they both looked fantastic. These 2 sets had, in my eyes, the best PQ of all the rear-projection 720p sets, including the Samsung's and the JVC's. When I had viewed the HM94 and HM95 earlier this week I thought the 94 definitely had the upper hand, but the Cinema Series versions seem to have identical PQ, even though the new version supposedly has the inferior chip.

Just my 2 pennies.

This HMX94 vs HMX95 topic is right down my alley. If only more people could compare these models it might make me feel more comfortable in my purchase to come. I need the features of the hmx series but would hate to lose PQ on the new 95 model sporting the HD4 chip. Especially if the 94 model with the HD2+ chip could be had cheaper.

Was watching a DVD on Sat Night and Heard a Big POP, then my Screen goes Dark the LEDs on the front confirm the fact that I have a blown Bulb. Bought this set on 2/2/05, not sure how much time I have on the bulb but I find it hard to belive that I would have burnt it out that fast. I bought ext Warrenty from Sears and they are sending me out a new DIY replacement bulb. Any Luck/Horror Stories about Replacement of Bulbs?

Was watching a DVD on Sat Night and Heard a Big POP, then my Screen goes Dark the LEDs on the front confirm the fact that I have a blown Bulb. Bought this set on 2/2/05, not sure how much time I have on the bulb but I find it hard to belive that I would have burnt it out that fast. I bought ext Warrenty from Sears and they are sending me out a new DIY replacement bulb. Any Luck/Horror Stories about Replacement of Bulbs?

You know I can't help but to wonder if it might be a better idea to simply buy a spare bulb instead of a bulb replacement warranty. At least then when you're right in the middle of something and the bulb goes you don't have to wait for weeks for a replacement to come in. Sure most replacement warranties outlast a single bulb & should net you several bulbs, but at least you would be down for weeks.

You know I can't help but to wonder if it might be a better idea to simply buy a spare bulb instead of a bulb replacement warranty. At least then when you're right in the middle of something and the bulb goes you don't have to wait for weeks for a replacement to come in. Sure most replacement warranties outlast a single bulb & should net you several bulbs, but at least you would be down for weeks.

If you believe the set will perform flawlessly then the warranty is not necessary. JVC covers the 1st year anyway. However, I strongly encourage the extended warranty. My recent experience with the 56G886 suggests the build quality is deficient. (I've posted my travails in other threads). After the first year you will be SOL. If you bought through a retailer with a lifetime warranty (e.g. Costco) the EW may not be necessary. Be sure to clearly understand what any warranty will cover.

I was only referring to the bulb replacement warranties, not extended warranties in general.

Julio Bro
Speaking of DVD players, I just hooked up my new Sony DVP-CX995V to my 46HM95 via HDMI and all I can say is WOW. No adjustments, just perfect picture. This player works great with the Toshiba models.

Rbbnet
A full extended warrenty from your VISA card is the way to go in my opinion. It mirrors the mfg warrenty at a "very" reasonable price.

I had the 52hmx84 and thought it had a slightly grain type PQ. It was almost like the screen was dusty. Since it was within the allowed return period, I took the set back and then compared the newer 52hm95 and the just out 56hm195. Decided that both had awesome PQ. I liked the PQ better than the model '84 set that I had just returned and the Sony and the Mit on display next to them. In watching the Tos 95/195's I concluded that the 195 had the better PQ, detail and brighter colors. This is probably due to it's native resolution being 1080p, the 150 watt lamp and the newer Black technology. The differences were sutle but I don't think that the input source was 1080 resolution so the 195 basically was limited to converting the original signal. Based on my comparison, I decided to go ahead and buy a 62hm195 (the technology and size) even though it was more $$. I think the 1080p is the next step in the technologyand bigger is always better - right? For the slight difference in cost at this point it was worthwhile to buy in to it now, since I expect to keep this set around for the 5 years or so. It definitely pays to shop around. I found the set on the internet and wound up with a delivered price on the 62hm195 that was $400 less than the 56hm195 that I was initially looking at in Sears. The set is being delivered today, so I'll give a follow up on the 62hm195 after I've had a chance to live with it a few days. :)
Hey DHadyk, I'm also in So. Fla and will be receiving my 62 HM 195 on Thursday from BuyDig. Also got a good price. Thanks for those informative posts. Unfortunately, BuyDig didn't have the Toshiba stand for that model in stock. Just curious. What stand did you go with?

I hate to do this but can someone list a few dvd players that will look good with my 52hmx84? I looked at the dvd threads/forums and it's exhausting. I can research after that but I need a good starting point, but want a player that excels in sound and has the hdmi. Thanks.

Hey DHadyk, I'm also in So. Fla and will be receiving my 62 HM 195 on Thursday from BuyDig. Also got a good price. Thanks for those informative posts. Unfortunately, BuyDig didn't have the Toshiba stand for that model in stock. Just curious. What stand did you go with?
Hi RappWizard,

I also considered buying from BuyDig but I didn't like their return policy, so I went with a company called www.HiDefLifeStyle.com that gives a 30 day no hassle return. (Just in case I had a major problem.) Plus, I liked their lower $ price when combined with shipping. Good luck with your set. Mine is being delivered today. Can't wait. Now where's that remote?

PS re: the stand we are planning on using an existing wall entertainment setup. You might want to look at the OPPLI on sale at

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=12&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&productId=11149

for $100 bucks. The set looks pretty good on it (I saw a picture with the set on it) plus it has wheels for easy moving.

Don

Rbbnet
A full extended warrenty from your VISA card is the way to go in my opinion. It mirrors the mfg warrenty at a "very" reasonable price.

How do you go about getting Visa to extend a warranty? I've had extrememly good luck with my Visa Co. never paying them one red cent in interest. They probably deserve a lil $$.

According to my chase visa card since I’m a platinum member I’m automatically covered an extra year of whatever the mfg warranty is. You have to send in copies of your receipts, etc. and then after your mfg year is up your covered. However you have to pay out of pocket and submit the claim to your credit card and then they will reimburse you. Not bad. Are bulb replacements covered on the one year mfg warranty?

According to my chase visa card since I’m a platinum member I’m automatically covered an extra year of whatever the mfg warranty is. You have to send in copies of your receipts, etc. and then after your mfg year is up your covered. However you have to pay out of pocket and submit the claim to your credit card and then they will reimburse you. Not bad. Are bulb replacements covered on the one year mfg warranty?

Seems like I've read here that Toshiba does warranty the bulb for the first year.

It's amazing how little we know about the visa cards we carry. but seeing how I've had mine for probably 10 years now it's no wonder I don't remember any of the fine print.

Can someone help me out with a nice up converting dvd player? I'm currently overwhelmed and would like to order one soon to go with my tosh dlp. I can get a decent deal on LGs but I think the consensus on this forum is that the Panny 77s? or something is the way to go and to avoid all Toshiba and Samsung dvd players. Need a good recommendation. Thanks!

Mark

You know I can't help but to wonder if it might be a better idea to simply buy a spare bulb instead of a bulb replacement warranty. At least then when you're right in the middle of something and the bulb goes you don't have to wait for weeks for a replacement to come in. Sure most replacement warranties outlast a single bulb & should net you several bulbs, but at least you would be down for weeks.

Yes Thats Excatly what I was thinking when the Bulb blew! And now I am on day 4 without HD and I am Starting to have withdraw! Twitch Twitch :eek:

ps Toshiba does warrenty Bulb for the first year however , when I bought the ext Warrenty via Sears, they bought that warrenty out so I have to deal with Sears Direct for all warrenty issues.

I have the lg dvb418 I like it over all expect for the few issue that all report, ie remote control slow response and some lipSync issue with some DVDs. I have not done the firmware update that has been posted on the LG DVB418 forum Thread but some report that has fixed the LipSync issue for them. If it does fix that issue I would say its an option for you to look at. It can be had fairly cheap if you shop for it.

[QUOTE=kwallstorm]Julio Bro
Speaking of DVD players, I just hooked up my new Sony DVP-CX995V to my 46HM95 via HDMI and all I can say is WOW. No adjustments, just perfect picture. This player works great with the Toshiba models...QUOTE]

Nice. I saw it's a 400 disc unit, big, and costs $100 more...it should do a better job, but it's out of my planned budget.

I should understand that right of the box you didn't adjust anything on the TV or the player? If so, the image didn't soften or anything?

If that is so, then your player is using it's default settings and probably it has some filters or it's version of enhancements active.

Can someone help me out with a nice up converting dvd player? I'm currently overwhelmed and would like to order one soon to go with my tosh dlp. I can get a decent deal on LGs but I think the consensus on this forum is that the Panny 77s? or something is the way to go and to avoid all Toshiba and Samsung dvd players. Need a good recommendation. Thanks!

MarkI'm happy with my Sony DVP-NS975V as the tray lock issues of the past have been corrected with firmware. The current Panasonic and the older S-97 are also good options and you may want to check into the newer Sony models as well.

Anyone noticed if when connecting to HDMI the image softens or more sharpness is needed when calibrating?

This happened when I connected my new Panny S77 and I want to know if it's an HDMI or player issue.

Was watching a DVD on Sat Night and Heard a Big POP, then my Screen goes Dark the LEDs on the front confirm the fact that I have a blown Bulb. Bought this set on 2/2/05, not sure how much time I have on the bulb but I find it hard to belive that I would have burnt it out that fast. I bought ext Warrenty from Sears and they are sending me out a new DIY replacement bulb. Any Luck/Horror Stories about Replacement of Bulbs?

If your bulbs burns out that quickly its more than likely you need to have a voltage regulator hooked up to the power source. Many bulbs in dlp, lcd have problems due to dips in energy source which cause the bulb to burn out well before its time. You may not even realize that the place you live has this problem yet it occurs almost anywhere. The solution is simple you just may have to pay up for a voltage regulator. I would have this done before installing the new bulb to avoid the problem occurring again and you thinking that its your set. Good luck

Yes Thats Excatly what I was thinking when the Bulb blew! And now I am on day 4 without HD and I am Starting to have withdraw! Twitch Twitch :eek:

Toshiba was quite good in handling my bulb problem. The total time from reporting the problem to receiving a new bulb was 6 days. They do, however, ask that you return the defective bulb. They provide pre-paid shipping materials via Fed-ex.

I guess that they don't want people reporting bogus problems in order to get a free spare bulb.........

I have periodic issues with the DVI>HDMI connection when I switch to the ANT1 input for a while and switch back. First I would make sure the STB is turned on without the TV or the cable connected. Then connect the HDMI cable and try turning on the TV. If the picture disappears try changing to the ANT1 input and then back to the HDMI input. If this doesn't work try turning off the STB with the TV on and set to the HDMI input and then turn the STB back on again. If you finally get the picture make sure you keep the STB turned on and ONLY turn off the TV.

I use DVI-HDMI with my Comcast HD box and cannot use the "All On" feature on their remote. I must turn the TV on first and then the cable box. Otherwise, I don't get a picture. Not a big issue I just have to remember.

If your bulbs burns out that quickly its more than likely you need to have a voltage regulator hooked up to the power source. Many bulbs in dlp, lcd have problems due to dips in energy source which cause the bulb to burn out well before its time. You may not even realize that the place you live has this problem yet it occurs almost anywhere. The solution is simple you just may have to pay up for a voltage regulator. I would have this done before installing the new bulb to avoid the problem occurring again and you thinking that its your set. Good luck

Thanks is their away to test for this or should I just pony up and get one, if so what kind of cost and any good site to shop from?

Thanks
bmw :cool:

I'll go farther and recommend buying a UPS with voltage regulation. This is better because in the event of losing power, you can turn OFF the unit and the UPS will provide enough time for the TV's cooling cycle.

Also you can connect any equipment that you would like to maintain memory or settings during an outtage.

I throw these questions out knowing there could be like 50 different starting points, but I thought I would give it a shot to see if I could get some help. I put my htpc together awhile ago and bought the ATI AIW 9600 card to go with it. I hooked it up to my new 62hm95 using a composite cable and though it looked bad, I got a picture that I could at least work with. So I thought I would take the next step and buy the VGA to Component adapter for the card and hook it up using component cables instead. Well I set it up for 640x480 and I get nothing...just blank screen. I've tried so many different timings that I dont know which was is up anymore I am ready to call it quits. What I am trying to figure out is that if I can get a picture using a composite cable but nothing with component cables am I right in believing that it isnt a timing or resolution issue, but just that the tv wont accept that signal format over component? I looks like the tv is looking for a 480i signal when I choose the HD input, and I dont know if that is confusing the video card, or if there is a way to force the tv into a different format like 480p or 720p.

My next decision would be to go out and buy a new video card that has DVI so I could go DVI to HDMI, but I havent a clue if the tv would be kosher with that signal either, and dont know if it's worth the money if it isn't going to fix anything. Anything anyone could provide would be much much appreciated. Thanks!

I've hooked my PC up to a 62HMX94 using an x800 Pro card and DVI-HDMI and it worked fine. This was with the Catalyst 5.9 drivers, which have built-in HDTV support. Inside the Catalyst Control Center it correctly detected the TV I had connected, and once I set the resolution to a predefined setting just under 1280X720 to eliminate overscan I had perfect 1:1 pixel mapping and a beautiful 62" monitor for my system.

rbbnet
Check directly with VISA and confirm your card supports their extended warrenty program. Then purchase your TV putting the ENTIRE PURCHASE AMOUNT on the card. Contact VISA, register the purchase and ask for the extended warrenty. They will send you the simple form to fill out and they need verification of purchase and a copy of the mfg warrenty. It cost me under two C notes for a full 5 year warrenty that mirrors the mfg warrenty.

Julio Bro
I haven't touched any of the settings on the player setup. I purchased the Avia disk to fine tune the setup but after the connection I honestly don't feel any need to adjust. Maybe I'm lucky or whatever but I'm telling you the picture is just outstanding.

I'm close to buying a Toshiba DLP - either the 46HM94P or the 62HM15 - from Costco. The 62HM15 goes for 3 g's even, with the stand included and the standard Costco 100% return security. Just realized though that the new, 1080P 62HM195 can be had online for less than 3 g's shipped (although it wouldn't include a stand) and now I'm starting to second guess.

What do you guys think? Grab one of the new 1080P sets or stick with the tried and true 720P set (either the 46" or the 62")?

I'm close to buying a Toshiba DLP - either the 46HM94P or the 62HM15 - from Costco. The 62HM15 goes for 3 g's even, with the stand included and the standard Costco 100% return security. Just realized though that the new, 1080P 62HM195 can be had online for less than 3 g's shipped (although it wouldn't include a stand) and now I'm starting to second guess.

What do you guys think? Grab one of the new 1080P sets or stick with the tried and true 720P set (either the 46" or the 62")?

Let me start by saying, I'm a newbie here and to DLPs in general. However I've been reading this forum hard and looking at the sets side-by-side. Today I looked at them at Tweeter, Sears, and CC. Here's the confusion I saw that may help you decide.
Tweeter: Mits and Samsungs, nice set-ups making it easy to compare. Mits looked ok, Samsungs looked ok to outstanding. The one Samsung that stood out was the new 1080P model with an extra $1100 tacked onto the next highest model. For the life in me I couldn't figure out why the 1080 looked so much better when receiving ESPNHD, the same station the others were tuned to. Sales guy claimed no sets had been tweeked, all straight from the box. But for some reason the highest priced unit they had looked way better than the rest.
Sears: Here the set-ups stunk but each unit was viewable. The Toshibas looked Superduperlous however I couldn't see any difference in PQ between the HM95 (720P) and the HM195(1080P). Here the 1080P Mits looked fantabulous and the Samsungs looked just so-so.
Circuit City: Why did I even bother stopping in here? Nothing but Samsung DLPs to look at and I couldn't see enough of a difference in PQ between the models to pay more for one or the other.

All this leaves me to my final thought. "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!" Pick the set that appeals to your wallet whether it be 1080P or 720P makes little difference so that I can tell within these stores. I can only imagine that SD will look even worse on the 1080P models, possibly another reason to save a $$ and go with a 720P. Lastly, stick to a brand that you have had good luck with in the past or leave it up to the personal reviews of the makes here. Good luck to all.

I myself am leaning toward one of the newer Toshibas whether I get the 52HM95 or the 56HMX195 I'm uncertain as of now. But who knows the Mitsubishi WD52725 for $1750 at Tweeters could fit my wallet just fine.

Has anyone experienced overheating issue? I have experienced it on my 62HM84 today. I've had it for about 7 months now, and this is the first time we experienced it. Basically my wife leaves the TV on most of the time during the day time as she is a stay home mom, and the various show keeps her entertained. When I got back from work today, I noticed the display flicks a bit and showed a grainy picture. Thinking it was our Comcast HD box, I checked all the connection and turned the cable box off. Even after the cable box is off, the TV was still flicking. I turned off the TV and let it rest for 40 minutes or so and turned it back on, everything returned to normal.

Is this overheating, or is my bulb going bad?

Thanks for any inputs.

Bigger is better. Love our new 62HM195. Stick with the 1080p models. There truly is a difference with the xH4 chip. Every thing will ultimately go to the higher res.

I'll go farther and recommend buying a UPS with voltage regulation. This is better because in the event of losing power, you can turn OFF the unit and the UPS will provide enough time for the TV's cooling cycle.

Also you can connect any equipment that you would like to maintain memory or settings during an outtage.

Julio Bro
Any recomendations on Model or Site to look at for Purchase?
bMw

I just recived my 62hmx95 yesterday from
dtvexpress. I am so impressed with this tv I can't wait to go home and play with it.
My xbox looked great on it, the Angeles game in HD looked great, and my Panasonic upconverting DVD player looked awsome.
I'm very happy and this TV is huge!

Any recomendations on Model or Site to look at for Purchase?


I'm using the Tripp Lite 1500 Home Theater UPS and it is a great value for the cost. Dell has them for $104 on the doorstep.
http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2802

Are there any reviews out there for the 62hm15 that is at Costco? I am thinking of buying one and wanted to know if anyone has one and do they like it?

I'm using the Tripp Lite 1500 Home Theater UPS and it is a great value for the cost. Dell has them for $104 on the doorstep.
http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2802



Can you elaborate on this a little more? I did a search and I noticed there are several threads in regards to surge protectors etc. I did look at the one you have from dell and it is listed at 130 or so.

I don’t need a battery back up but I would like something that will protect my equipment and give me clean energy/electricity. I’m using your basic surge protector now. I noticed on some of these protectors that have the filtering there are coax connections on there. So do you run the coax cable coming from outside to the protector then out to your cable box? Do you loose/gain anything by doing that?

Any one recommend something around $50 or so?

Thanks

Has anyone experienced overheating issue? I have experienced it on my 62HM84 today. I've had it for about 7 months now, and this is the first time we experienced it. Basically my wife leaves the TV on most of the time during the day time as she is a stay home mom, and the various show keeps her entertained. When I got back from work today, I noticed the display flicks a bit and showed a grainy picture. Thinking it was our Comcast HD box, I checked all the connection and turned the cable box off. Even after the cable box is off, the TV was still flicking. I turned off the TV and let it rest for 40 minutes or so and turned it back on, everything returned to normal.

Is this overheating, or is my bulb going bad?

Thanks for any inputs.


My 52HM84 started to flicker a bit on low power mode. When i put it to high bright, it goes away... don't realy know what it is.

I'm running the UPS so that my 52HM195 does not get slam dunked by any power fluctuations. Once recently (not this Toshiba) my power went on and off in rapid succession about 4 times. I was running to the plug!! :eek:

Anyways, this HT 1500 will keep it stable with clean power (not the quality discussed by high end filtering components) but I'm not paying $400 for something I can't see. Any demo they construct for seeing this does not count for me. As I was saying, it supplies cleaned power and a very comfortable cushion for the TV and my DVR cable box to stay powered during minor interruptions. Anything major and I would unplug them anyways.

Yes, I do use the input/output for the cable line to get surge protection. No I see no difference using it and that is the way it should be.

I just recived my 62hmx95 yesterday from
dtvexpress. I am so impressed with this tv I can't wait to go home and play with it.
My xbox looked great on it, the Angeles game in HD looked great, and my Panasonic upconverting DVD player looked awsome.
I'm very happy and this TV is huge!


Fawlty,

I see where you made your purchase from DTVExpress. I'm curious about their pricing in comparison to other online stores. Also your overall happiness with them as far as support, knowledge , etc.. I live within 2 hours of them and would be willing to drive there to pick up a set if they'd allow it. I read on their website about the extended warranties they offer. They appear to be free if you consider they even cover the bulb, an item destined to fail before the free extended 2 yr warranty expires. Just the price of the bulb alone would cover the cost of buying one of the 5 yr extended warranties.

Fawlty, Congrats on your new toy!

I have been wanting to see one of these in person, but no one in my area has it yet. Is this the the new "black" cabinet version, and if so is it all "gloss or piano black", or just the bezel surrounding the screen with the rest being a flat finish?

Thanks,

Roger

Fawlty,

I see where you made your purchase from DTVExpress. I'm curious about their pricing in comparison to other online stores. Also your overall happiness with them as far as support, knowledge , etc.. I live within 2 hours of them and would be willing to drive there to pick up a set if they'd allow it. I read on their website about the extended warranties they offer. They appear to be free if you consider they even cover the bulb, an item destined to fail before the free extended 2 yr warranty expires. Just the price of the bulb alone would cover the cost of buying one of the 5 yr extended warranties.

rbbnet
Feel free to check other stores online. Crutchfield and Vanns both sell the TV for $3499.00. DTVExpress sells it for $2799.00. Being only 2 hours away is good for you, I'm in California and it took about three weeks to get my TV from them. I bought the 5 year waranty as well. Overall I think it's a great set.

Fawlty, Congrats on your new toy!

I have been wanting to see one of these in person, but no one in my area has it yet. Is this the the new "black" cabinet version, and if so is it all "gloss or piano black", or just the bezel surrounding the screen with the rest being a flat finish?

Thanks,

Roger
Roger

Yes this is the new "black" cabinet version. The set is a matt/flat black and the bezel is a glossy black. It looks really good in person though.

Well everyone, I’m proud to announce I’m an owner of a Toshiba dlp. Just got it delivered and it looks awesome. It’s the 52HMX84 and wow!! The only thing that sucks is that I had to come back to work. I ordered from www.beachaudio.com got a great close out price and they shipped it last Friday. They had to go through two freight companies to get it to me in Denver, so I was a little concerned how it would turn up. The box was in good condition, stripped it right off in the parking lot to check the set over to make sure nothing was cracked/damaged etc. just in case I could refuse delivery.

Got the new Comcast moto-6412 dvr w/ hdmi, set that up the other night and it runs fine after two days. Hooked up the dlp right away and flipped to the hdtv channels and wow again awesome. So I’m stoked and can’t wait to go home and calibrate the set. Thanks to you all here in avsforum for helping me prepare for this dlp.

I just recived my 62hmx95 the Angeles game in HD looked great, and my Panasonic upconverting DVD player looked awsome.
I'm very happy and this TV is huge!

Fawlty,

Sure would be nice if you could tell us more on the pic quality of your new unit. How is it connected, cable, cable w/HD tuner box, sat, big 'ol anttena... using what cables, HDMI, composite, etc.? How does it look on plain 'ol standard cable or even on a OTA antenna if you have it connected that way? I called DTVExpress and inquired about the 52HMX95. They sound more like the type of store I prefer over those busy chain stores that know very little about what they try to sell.

what stuff do i need to connect my pc to my 52hm94 hdtv need a list

Fawlty,

Sure would be nice if you could tell us more on the pic quality of your new unit. How is it connected, cable, cable w/HD tuner box, sat, big 'ol anttena... using what cables, HDMI, composite, etc.? How does it look on plain 'ol standard cable or even on a OTA antenna if you have it connected that way? I called DTVExpress and inquired about the 52HMX95. They sound more like the type of store I prefer over those busy chain stores that know very little about what they try to sell.
rbbnet
I haven't been able to run Avia and my Adelphia cable service isn't intalling my cable card until Friday.
Right now the best picture is with my OTA Antenna. I can't wait to go home and watch the Braves play in 720p on Fox. The OTA HD is really great in my opinion and I pick up alot of chanels with my $60 Antenna (from Home Depot) installed in my attic.
The second best picture is with my Panasonic s97? upconverting DVD player run with the HDMI cable. There is some video noise and does not look as good as true HD that I'm receiving from my antenna.
Tied for second would have to be my xbox. I'm really impressed with how bright and colorful the TV is.
Lastly is my regular analog cable picture which looks like crap. Hopefully friday when I get my digital cable card installed the picture will improve a little. Also getting HBO HD. I can't wait to watch "Rome" on Sunday night.

I have a Toshiba 62 HM 195 on the way which of course has the capability of 1080p signals. If I order a HD Tivo unit from Direct TV which broadcasts up to 1080i, will the TIVO unit restrict the HM 195 from broadcasting in 1080p. Anybody? Thanks!!

My first post to avs forum. Here goes.

Read a good part of this thread before purchasing. I purchased a 52HM95 this last week and it was delivered Tuesday. I have a direcTV H10 HDTV receiver connected to it.

Here is my question: When I first power up the TV and the satellite box, I watch the Tv power up and then power back down, though not totally. I'm not sure how these guys "warm up". First, I see the red light by the power button come on, then I see the green light come on for a second or two then the green light goes off, and then I here the sound of the fan slow down. A little bit later, the sound of the fan comes back and the green light comes back on. After hearing this happen a couple of times, the pictures finally comes on. After this, no more funny stuff.

Is this normal? Can someone elaborate please?

I have a Toshiba 62 HM 195 on the way which of course has the capability of 1080p signals. If I order a HD Tivo unit from Direct TV which broadcasts up to 1080i, will the TIVO unit restrict the HM 195 from broadcasting in 1080p. Anybody? Thanks!!

From what I've read the 62HM195 upconverts to 1080p. Even if there were a 1080p broadcast signal and your HDTivo could deliver it (which I don't think it can), the TV would not accept a 1080p signal.

Again, just what I've read in this thread.

rbbnet
I haven't been able to run Avia and my Adelphia cable service isn't intalling my cable card until Friday.
Right now the best picture is with my OTA Antenna. I can't wait to go home and watch the Braves play in 720p on Fox. The OTA HD is really great in my opinion and I pick up alot of chanels with my $60 Antenna (from Home Depot) installed in my attic.
The second best picture is with my Panasonic s97? upconverting DVD player run with the HDMI cable. There is some video noise and does not look as good as true HD that I'm receiving from my antenna.
Tied for second would have to be my xbox. I'm really impressed with how bright and colorful the TV is.
Lastly is my regular analog cable picture which looks like crap. Hopefully friday when I get my digital cable card installed the picture will improve a little. Also getting HBO HD. I can't wait to watch "Rome" on Sunday night.

Will you let us know how much things change when your new cable is up?

I carried my wife tonight to see the various Mits, Sams and Toshibas both 720P and 1080P. She really liked the looks of the Toshiba HM95 series with it's silver casing. I myself prefer the black case but I'm more interested in PQ so naturally I chose the HM195 over the HM95, 1080P over 720P that is. But oddly enough and regretfully the dang 'ol 1080P Samsung still looked better to me than did either the Toshiba or the Mitsubishi WDXX725 series. I even got the opportunity to see the Mits demo running on the Mits XX627, Samsung XX78, and a Sony LCD A20. The first two both being 1080P DLP sets. I told the saleman I didn't think the Mits' demo running on the two other sets at each side of the Mits was a good idea since they both looked better than the Mits. He said folks tweek the pic all day as he grabbed the remote and quickly brought the Mits up to par with the other two. I could tell the difference tonight in the 1080P sets vs the 720P sets. Although I'm still uncertain as to which I'll end up buying. The 1080P sets are so expensive. I can get a 720P HMX95 for $800 less than the 1080P Tosh MX195. But even better yet I can buy the Mits XX725 (720P) set for $350 less than the Toshiba HMX95. Man!! Decisions, Decisions!!

Well everyone, I’m proud to announce I’m an owner of a Toshiba dlp. Just got it delivered and it looks awesome. It’s the 52HMX84 and wow!! The only thing that sucks is that I had to come back to work. I ordered from beachaudio got a great close out price and they shipped it last Friday. They had to go through two freight companies to get it to me in Denver, so I was a little concerned how it would turn up. The box was in good condition, stripped it right off in the parking lot to check the set over to make sure nothing was cracked/damaged etc. just in case I could refuse delivery.

Congrats! Same here - Ordered it a week and a half ago, just got it Monday - LOVE it!! ...BTW, I even got another $75 off the price, because they had it advertised the other week for $1400 and change! ...and YES, it was BRAND NEW in the box!!!!

I've got an inexpensive Sony Progressive Scan DVD player hooked to it, and couldn't be happier - the picture is out of this world on DVDs that were done correctly (i.e. Monsters Inc, Incredibles, etc.). I haven't run HDMI, but will be trying that shortly from the 9022 MOXI box.

Hello,

I posted this over on the HTF but haven't had a reply and was hoping someone here may could help.

I recently bought a Toshiba 52hm95 DLP TV and have noticed that the picture on the TV is not centered properly. The bottom of the screen is cut off and a black bar runs across the top of the screen even when watching something in full screen. It's like the image is shifted downward.

I've tried every input and have tried DVDs in every stretch mode and it's always there. I've tried my xbox, gamecube, vcr, dvd, HDTV, and cable but no matter what i can't get that black bar off the top and the bottom part of the screen is cut off. Am i missing something?

I know how to get to the service menu but i dont know if this is something i could fix myself or if i'm better off exchanging the TV. BTW i dont plan on changing anything in the service menu but i didn't know if this is something that could be fixed in the service menu.

Other than the screen centering, this TV has a great picture so hopefully i can get this resolved.

Thanks,
Steve

Hello,

I posted this over on the HTF but haven't had a reply and was hoping someone here may could help.

I recently bought a Toshiba 52hm95 DLP TV and have noticed that the picture on the TV is not centered properly. The bottom of the screen is cut off and a black bar runs across the top of the screen even when watching something in full screen. It's like the image is shifted downward.

I've tried every input and have tried DVDs in every stretch mode and it's always there. I've tried my xbox, gamecube, vcr, dvd, HDTV, and cable but no matter what i can't get that black bar off the top and the bottom part of the screen is cut off. Am i missing something?

I know how to get to the service menu but i dont know if this is something i could fix myself or if i'm better off exchanging the TV. BTW i dont plan on changing anything in the service menu but i didn't know if this is something that could be fixed in the service menu.

Other than the screen centering, this TV has a great picture so hopefully i can get this resolved.

Thanks,
Steve

I would get it looked at or exchange it. We essentially have the same TV and mine doesn't do that. Good luck.

Stevebjr, you must make a support call or appointment, this is definitely something to adjust or repair...and if the work doesn't look good, replace the unit.

Julio Bro
Any recomendations on Model or Site to look at for Purchase?
bMw

Prefferably a model from APC or Tripp-Lite, very reliable equipment. But a model from Belkins or other from good computer stores may do. I have a 1500VA model from APC, bought at CompUSA for less than $150.

Remember to add the wattage for what you like to protect in your home theater and pick a model that goes over that quantity in Watts, NOT VA. Power is indicated in watts and VA is usually higher, so be careful.

Also, make sure the UPS has voltage regulation and you're set.

...I don’t need a battery back up but I would like something that will protect my equipment and give me clean energy/electricity. I’m using your basic surge protector now. I noticed on some of these protectors that have the filtering there are coax connections on there. So do you run the coax cable coming from outside to the protector then out to your cable box? Do you loose/gain anything by doing that?...Thanks

Fluctuations are the silent killer of equipment and anything that comes from the outside may be affected by the weather or the utility, so it's always better if you can protect from them.

When using a UPS/Filter/Surge/Regulator, everything you want to protect must have it's source go thru it first. Regarding the need for battery back-up, if you almost never have power outtages there's no need. But if outtages happen, it's better a UPS for the TV to work the bulb's cooling cycle.

Has anyone seen the new 72HM195. Trying to decide between the 62HM195 and the 72HM195. Good prices out there on both.

Does anyone have a PS2 hooked up to the 62HM95 ? Is there any lag ? Does the 62hm95 have a game mode ? I plan on picking up an XBOX360 but the kids and I have a bunch of PS2 games that we would still like to play... for a while more anyway. Thanks

I just got my 52HM95 today at BB.

List price was 2500.
I got the TV, the 4 year service plan, and a Belkin PureAV PF31 for $2550. Think I got a pretty good deal.

Its being delivered tomorrow, I absolutely can't wait.

I got a open box 62HM95 at BB last week during a frinds and family sale where all open box items were 25% off. The tv is perfect (paid 2399)! HDMI thru Comcast Hi Def and my DVD player - (The Sony 400 disc one), HDMI upconvert to 1080i through it as well. Looks awesome!

Well its been about two weeks since we got the 46HM94P from costco, so far everything is great. This set is just amazing, the picture is great with DVDs. The colors are vivid and the whole picture is just awsome. I haven't got HD yet but I did try a 720p signal with one of my Xbox games, all i can say is wow. Gaming is awsome on this TV, there is no lag and the gaming experience is just awsome. 480p games also look great, Ninja Gaiden looks even more impressive than it did with my old ED Panasonic plasma. Actually everything looks better in this set. Very happy with the purchase, and by the way anyone looking at this set in costco. The model is the same as the 46HM94, the "P" on the end of the model number just refers to the stand.

hi guys, i have a 62hm94 and i've really enjoyed it for about 3 months now. a couple of weeks ago, i noticed that it started to pop when turned on...now i realize that after it pops, the right speaker goes out :mad: :( has anyone had this happened to them? i tried to read this and do a search but theres a 114 pages to this thread :eek: :p

Okay, just got my 62HMX94 today. I'm having a weird issue where sometimes blacks will take on a greenish hue when connected to my PC (via DVI-HDMI).

This happens during the following times:

Bootup
Along the borders outside the edges of my screen (very slight underscan)
When playing BF2
When using Zoomplayer in Fullscreen VMR9 Renderless mode - it does not happen in VMR9 Windowed mode

Has anyone experienced this? Anyone know what it is or why?

hi guys, i have a 62hm94 and i've really enjoyed it for about 3 months now. a couple of weeks ago, i noticed that it started to pop when turned on...now i realize that after it pops, the right speaker goes out :mad: :( has anyone had this happened to them? i tried to read this and do a search but theres a 114 pages to this thread :eek: :p

I'm new here too but I have spent the time to read all post in this section. To the best of my knowledge the only issues I've read about with these HDTVs are from the Channel Guide and occasionaly greenish hues such as the one listed i nthe previous post. As for your speaker issue, either go with audio out to a stereo system or call for repairs, as you definitely have a warranty issue it sounds like.

Rel -


How do you have Battlefield 2 hooked up? What video card? Are you using NVIDIAS 1:1 mapping but smaller screen?

If you go too small you WILL SEE GREEN.

Are yo going in through components?

Any lag issue btw?

what should i set my dvd hdmi setting to for my 52hm94 ,and do i have to do anything to the tv

Anyone with the hmx versions try to input a 1080p (1920x1080 60hz) through the VGA port? Does it work? How is the overscan with the VGA?

Okay, I think I've got the issue with the green worked out. If the brightness on the set is too high it seems that true black (RGB (0,0,0)) gets very noisy and takes on a greenish hue. I've found that with a Brightness set to 39 I can get black to be a static black and not a noisy greenish black.

Unfortunately having the brightness this low has created a bit of a black crush problem, which I've solved by increasing the brightness control inside the ATI control center (yes, I know you're not supposed to do this, but it's the lesser of two evils). I think I've got a pretty good picture and a decent greyscale now after an hour fiddling with the settings on the TV and the settings in my video card driver while using the BTB/WTW test pattern from DVE.

Hi all, check to see what i can do to find my locals on comcast? Just got the 46HM94P from Costco, and i have basic cable,(digial) from wall to tv, using qam i get
ESPN HD 116.1
DISCOVERY HD 115-3
INHD 105.1
INHD 2 105.2
INHD SPEC 105.3
KRON 112.3
NBC 116.2
but looking for the big 3 ABC/CBS/FOX, and they also do not show up on my quide, have to basically go find them. :confused:

As you know, I have a Panny S77 DVD player and it shows a great picture with the Toshiba, but can't use it's auto zoom features as PQ deteriorates.

What I would like to know, from you out there that have high-def cable/sat boxes, is if these boxes have auto zoom or fit features. When in high-def, the Toshiba locks the display in FULL (720P) or disables it (1080i) and I want to know how it works with the boxes.

Testing with the S77 tells me that at 1080i the Toshiba switches to NATURAL and shows a full image with bars. When switching to TheaterWide 3, which works great in 480P, the image overshoots the sides with loss in PQ. I would like to understand why Toshiba takes this approach instead of maintaining the 480P flexibility.

Could there be a way of controlling or re-program the aspect on the Toshiba?

How are the boxes' approach to fit or zoom?

Hi all, check to see what i can do to find my locals on comcast? Just got the 46HM94P from Costco, and i have basic cable,(digial) from wall to tv, using qam i get
ESPN HD 116.1
DISCOVERY HD 115-3
INHD 105.1
INHD 2 105.2
INHD SPEC 105.3
KRON 112.3
NBC 116.2
but looking for the big 3 ABC/CBS/FOX, and they also do not show up on my quide, have to basically go find them. :confused:Without a cable card you are not going to find any published information on where the channels will appear. The only way to find the channels, and it is a very tedious process, is to use your remote and the up channel button and document what you find. For my area Comcast had the following:

ESPN-HD 114-1
CBS-HD 76-1
NBC HD 1-1
FOX-HD 2-1

I never could find ABC-HD and TNT-HD was added after I got my cable card. I'm really surprised you even get INHD and DISC-HD using the direct feed as they are usually encrypted channels.

Ok been reading these threads for far too long....I finally bit the bullet and bought a 52hm95 last night at BB. I think it has the best picture compared to all the other sets I saw. Wobulated or not I cant see a big difference and I really chose it for the picture quality and the newer features when compared to last years models.
(ie..2HDMI's, Tuner, Memory Slot, 150watt bulb)
The price was right too....TV & Stand for 96% of TV's MSRP. Basically on sale with a free stand! I will pick it up on Thursday and post my 2 cents this weekend. Thanks to all here for input, it had a huge impact on my choice!

Congrats. Look forward to hearing your 2 cents.

I'm considering purchasing the 46HM95.... does anyone know if this TV will accept 1080i? It is advertised as 720p.... but will it scale 1080i and display it like my Maxent Plasma does?

I cant imagine a HDTV that wont display 1080i but I called Toshiba Tech support and the guy on the phone sounded like he was on valium. He couldnt answer my question.

Also, these Toshiba DLPs... how do they function as PC monitors? If I was to hook my PC up through the HDMI port, how would that work out?

Any help would be great fellas... because I wanna get rid of this Maxent Plasma ASAP!

I had originally posted this in the 1080P forum, but thought I would give this one a try as well.....................

Has anyone else who bought a MX195 series TV experienced this problem:

When using the component video, on dark scenes, does anyone see and 'noise' on the screen that is not part of the picture? I have a 62MX195 and when I'm watching DVD (which I need to have hooked up over component), I can see some of this 'noise' present. I know it's not the from the actual DVD itself since when I freeze the picture, I can still see the 'noise' occurring. I know there was some info in about bad 'gray noise' on the 720P Toshiba sets. Is the the phenomena that's being referring too? This does not seem to occur when watching cable via the HDMI.

CGULL999, I think I know exactly what you mean. I have been experiencing this with my 62HMX94 hooked up to my PC via DVI-HDMI. As far as I can tell, it in some way is related to the brightness setting on the monitor, and seems to primarily affect greys between luminescence 1 and around 32.

I've noticed that if I set the brightness beyond a certain point, my peak black (RGB(1,1,1)) starts getting really noisy with a greenish flickering, which from a distance makes the blacks take on a horrible greenish hue. I've found that I can minimize this noise by lowering the brightness on the TV, usually I try and set it just low enough that peak black appears as a pure black without any noise.

To compensate for having to set the brightness on the display so low, I've been trying to eliminate the black crush problem this causes using the method of last resort - changing the settings on the source (in this case the brightness/contrast controls in the ATI control center). I can produce a fairly good - although not perfect - greyscale this way, and I'm hoping that I may find a happy medium at some point.

Having blacks be green is a much worse problem than having a small amount of banding.

The noise is very very obvious to me when I load up a static greyscale pattern and look at the screen from about a foot away.

Is this a problem that's universal to these sets, or is it a sign of a defective TV? I shouldn't have to keep the brightness on the set below 30 just so that black doesn't appear as green, and I find it hard to believe that this problem is affecting everyone and there isn't more outrage.

I just purchased a 52HM95 as well. I originally wanted the 52HM84 with the older chip after reading everything I saw here. After playing with hte sets in a few stores though, I didnt really see much difference between the two. I was still leaning towards the 84 model because of the price. Most stores are sold out of it and it is on closeout at a lot of other places. Well BB wouldn't deal for anything. The store I bought the 95 model from basically gave it to me for the price that the 84 was gonna cost. As for the stand, please don't pay list price for it....there is a ton of market in it.

It will be delivered on Thurs. I will post more then after it is hooked up.

I just purchased a 52HM95 as well. I originally wanted the 52HM84 with the older chip after reading everything I saw here. After playing with hte sets in a few stores though, I didnt really see much difference between the two. I was still leaning towards the 84 model because of the price. Most stores are sold out of it and it is on closeout at a lot of other places. Well BB wouldn't deal for anything. The store I bought the 95 model from basically gave it to me for the price that the 84 was gonna cost. As for the stand, please don't pay list price for it....there is a ton of market in it.

It will be delivered on Thurs. I will post more then after it is hooked up.

I'm in the same dilemma you were. I was all set to get the 52hm84 or 94, but with the price on the hm95 being similar I am considering the newer model. I generally always will try and get the newest model possible, but some of the complaints on the 95 picture quality and confusion about which chip it has have me considering the older model instead. As far as the stand, any recommendations on where to find it at a decent price, I missed out getting it at BB a couple of weeks ago when it was $99. I'll be anxious to see what you think of the 95.

The BB deal going on a couple of weeks ago was a good one. The ST5284 cannot be ordered for my area (zip 77598, Houston). The warehouse for my region is out and they don't do a warehouse to warehouse transfer. So I had no choice but to get the newer ST5265 which is currently being sold at $332.xx. I too used a friends and family coupon to get it down by 25% to $249.xx. The older 5284 stands is shaped identically but the color scheme matches the 52HM84 instead of the black framed 52HM95. Personlly, I did not care about the difference for a savings of $150 but no matter I CAN'T ORDER IT!

So, for those of you getting the 52HM84/94/95, the older ST-5284 stand will work and you can get it much cheaper, if your region still has one. I had the home theatre guy call 3 area stores which showed one in inventory each. All the stores said the unit was gone <not refelected in their inventory> or box was open and some parts were taken to satisfy a customer. Anyhow, the stand matches nicely just costs more than I wanted to spend.

The BB deal going on a couple of weeks ago was a good one. The ST5284 cannot be ordered for my area (zip 77598, Houston). The warehouse for my region is out and they don't do a warehouse to warehouse transfer. So I had no choice but to get the newer ST5265 which is currently being sold at $332.xx. I too used a friends and family coupon to get it down by 25% to $249.xx. The older 5284 stands is shaped identically but the color scheme matches the 52HM84 instead of the black framed 52HM95. Personlly, I did not care about the difference for a savings of $150 but no matter I CAN'T ORDER IT!

So, for those of you getting the 52HM84/94/95, the older ST-5284 stand will work and you can get it much cheaper, if your region still has one. I had the home theatre guy call 3 area stores which showed one in inventory each. All the stores said the unit was gone <not refelected in their inventory> or box was open and some parts were taken to satisfy a customer. Anyhow, the stand matches nicely just costs more than I wanted to spend.

So are you saying that BB still has that deal on the stand for the 84/94 even though they no longer show it online? How do you get a hold of a friends and family coupon?

I just printed this out and went in to talk to the sales guy and said I wanted the 52hm95 at the sale price and the stand for free according to this offer. That's what I got!

http://www.bestbuy.com/olspage.jsp?id=pcmcat70900050022&type=category

I am set on buying a new dvd player since I am not happy with the samsung hd 850.
I am looking at 3 models
First one is the pioneer elite avi59
second is denon 2910 and third is denon 3910
I want to know whats the best deal, I will be getting an employee discount on it.
Video qualkity is the most important thing, also I was wondering if I should have the dvd player upscale the video or my tv. I think that the toshiba 52hm95 probably doesnt have the best upscaler
what do you recommend I do, and should I use the upscaler on the dvd player or the tv? also has anyone used these players on this tv or other toshiba models and also can you give impressions
thanks

I just purchased a 52HM95 as well. Well BB wouldn't deal for anything. The store I bought the 95 model from basically gave it to me for the price that the 84 was gonna cost. As for the stand, please don't pay list price for it....there is a ton of market in it.

It will be delivered on Thurs. I will post more then after it is hooked up.

For you folks who need to know, try Chumbo.com for HM94/95 stand pricing. They had the 52" model at an unbelievable price this past weekend.

Good price on stand......most places have it for retail price which is sick. I got it a bit cheaper than that at the local store here in town.

I am set on buying a new dvd player since I am not happy with the samsung hd 850.
I am looking at 3 models
First one is the pioneer elite avi59
second is denon 2910 and third is denon 3910
I want to know whats the best deal, I will be getting an employee discount on it.
Video qualkity is the most important thing, also I was wondering if I should have the dvd player upscale the video or my tv. I think that the toshiba 52hm95 probably doesnt have the best upscaler
what do you recommend I do, and should I use the upscaler on the dvd player or the tv? also has anyone used these players on this tv or other toshiba models and also can you give impressions
thanks


I'm still trying to figure out what dvd player to get. I just learned about macroblocking and the effects on dlps. Are there players that don't macroblock using the hdmi connection? Very cornfused. I'm loving my hd though on my HMX84. Very nice. My old progressive scan toshiba dvd player looks good but I would like to have an upconvert player for a while until the hd/blue ray players get in the market which could be a while.

I've asked before but would still like to hear what players are the BEST for toshiba dlps. Thanks!

Few things....

1. that is a nice deal with the free stand at BB. What annoyed me was that BB wouldn't price match or negotiate at all on the TV and I thought their price was high. The free stand sweetens up the offer for sure.

2. I missed out on the older 84 stand by a day! It was advertised last week on BB for 99 bucks but there are no more left! What a steal that would of been.

3. As for a DVD player, I wouldn't spend a lot since the new formats are out soon. I was looking at the Toshiba SD6980. For 150 bucks or so it does it all.....upscale, progressive scan, plays DVD A, and even has an HDMI connection. You definately want to use the scaler in the player, not the TV. This way the DVD player uncompresses the feed to the TV instead of your TV trying to enhance an alraedy compressed signal. Make sense?

I'm close to buying a Toshiba DLP - either the 46HM94P or the 62HM15 - from Costco. The 62HM15 goes for 3 g's even, with the stand included and the standard Costco 100% return security. Just realized though that the new, 1080P 62HM195 can be had online for less than 3 g's shipped (although it wouldn't include a stand) and now I'm starting to second guess.

What do you guys think? Grab one of the new 1080P sets or stick with the tried and true 720P set (either the 46" or the 62")?
After giving up on the "budget" Plasma idea and not being much of a fan of LCD, I decided to opt for the 46HM94. I purchased it last night from Costco and lemme say that I am very impressed. I feel like my money was well spent and at this point after going 3 bouts with a Vizio P42HDe, a Maxent MX-42X3 and a Proview LCD.... I have finally decided that until I have $4-5 grand to spend comfortably... DLP is where I need to be.

I am feeding my unit HD Cable, an Oppo DVD Player and a Rp-62 and so far I am more than happy. last night I used AVIA to calibrate the Colorstream HD input 1 and the picture is even better now.

I cant tell you which one to purchase because I know you have to consider room space and thngs like that... but 46" was plenty for me. (of and I got the cool stand with it! :D )

Is there anyone here who knows whether the 46HM94 will work as a PC Monitor? The instruction manual says in bold letters... "DO NOT CONNECT THIS TV TO A PC"... but I was like... :cool:

Can any of the experienced users here clarify?

Hello tatootearz:

If you check this thread carefully, a lot of people already use the Toshibas as monitors with various modes of connection; see if there's one that suits your need.

Regarding your previous resolution question, these TV's have 720P as native, this means it will accept any input, but will scale it to 720P. Now, the thing is that some people like to feed it 1080i while others have better results with 720P. I think is a combination of how the equipment transfers data and taste, just play with what you got and see what looks best..., using HDMI of course.

I have not been pleased at all using my 62HMX94 as a computer monitor - to the extent that I'm seriously thinking of returning the set. I'm connecting the TV to my x800 Pro with DVI-HDMI, and sending the TV the default brightness/contrast from my video card (both set as the default 100 out of a 0-200 scale) I cannot get a proper grayscale with the user controls on the TV at all.

With a brightness setting of 50 the blacks are getting crushed up to around RGB(32,32,32). If I increase the brightness I can begin to distinguish the difference in the blacks, but the dark areas get very noisy and take on a greenish hue.

The only way I've managed to get black to be the blackest I know this set can do and have the ability to distinguish say RGB(1,1,1) from RGB(8,8,8) is to crank the brightness on my video card up to around 80 and lower the brightness on the set to around 30 (if I increase the brightness on the set beyond this then black becomes greenish). With this solution, however, my dark grays are still noisy, and I feel like I'm getting a 6-bit grayscale.

Given how many rave reviews I've heard for this set at a monitor, I find it hard to believe that this is a universal issue. Based on personal experience, however, I can't recommend it for that use.

The problem is that this same gray scale noise you see in the more controlled environment of the PC is also present on every other input, including the internal tuner. It's just harder to detect it without knowing what to look for, but it is there in the shadows and darker colors just as it is in the gray scale patterns. It is easy to mistake this as a bad signal or cabling, but that is not the case.
It seems that many come here simply to gain some assurance that the purchasing choice they are making or have made was/is the right one, and they disregard any negative observations made.
I tend to take comments like "I just bought this set and the picture is perfect" with a grain of salt, as many folks do not even take the time to pop up a few test patterns before making this assumption. For those that really want to know how their picture compares, it is as easy as hooking up a PC and running some test patterns to determine this for themselves. Free trial software such as that offered by IDK Tech (http://www.idk-tech.com/products/techpcvg.html) is perfect for this.

For those that do not have a PC to HDTV connection, you can capture many of the screens that are generated from this software using the <Alt><Print Screen> keyboard combination and then paste the captured image from the clipboard into Paintbrush, where you can then save it to a jpg image file. Copy these jpg files to a memory card, and you have a pocket sized test system you can even take with you on your TV shopping escapades. Nearly all of the newer high-end sets have memory card readers now. :)

I just bought a Toshiba DLP model 46MH94. The picture is fantastic. I got it to work with a Cablecard from Time Warner.
I have just one problem, I hope some can help since Toshiba customer service is horrible and useless.
I am unable to use the remote to dial in 4-digit channels. I can only dial in 3 digits. So if I want to go to channel 1104, I can only dial in 110. To get to 1104, I have to dial in 999 then scan up to 1104. What a pain !! I tried dialing 110, then the (-) then 4, but it does not work.
Any sugesstions?

I would also like to report that the TV Guide does not work. Toshiba said they will send me a software upgrade to address this problem. Hope this is useful to some of you folks.

The TV is large enough that in my room where the max viewing distance is maybe only 12 feet away, the noise is bad enough that it makes the picture look crappy in dark scenes. When I'm using it as a PC monitor I'm sitting only about 7-8 ft. back, which magnifies the problem even more. I chose DLP precisely because I wanted to be able to enjoy fine details in dark scenes (I like sci-fi movies, what can I say?). This TV seems to be the antithesis of that.

Ok, My roommate moved out and took his 52HM85 with him, so I one-upped him and went with the 62HM95.

The existing setup, aside from the TV and the Surge Protector is exactly the same. I have an XBox, the Cable Box, and a cheap DVD player connected to a mid/high end Yamaha receiver with RGB component cables, and then one set of output RGB component cables from the receiver to the HD Stream 1 Component input on the TV.

:D
When watching anything from the Cable box, if I toggle through the Input options, it displays 1080i and the TV works beautifully as expected.

:eek:
However if I switch to the XBox or DVD player (just tried playing a DVD with either), toggling to the HD Stream 1 displays 480i and then it happens... anywhere from 1 minute into the movie, the TV shuts off, the red light staying on and the green light flashing evey .5 seconds until it shuts off and attempts to turn on again.

:confused: :(
The obvious answer, which I don't want to believe is that the TVs upconverter from 480i to 720p is not working properly and I need a service technician to come out. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what could be happening here?

Ok, My roommate moved out and took his 52HM85 with him, so I one-upped him and went with the 62HM95.

The existing setup, aside from the TV and the Surge Protector is exactly the same. I have an XBox, the Cable Box, and a cheap DVD player connected to a mid/high end Yamaha receiver with RGB component cables, and then one set of output RGB component cables from the receiver to the HD Stream 1 Component input on the TV.

:D
When watching anything from the Cable box, if I toggle through the Input options, it displays 1080i and the TV works beautifully as expected.

:eek:
However if I switch to the XBox or DVD player (just tried playing a DVD with either), toggling to the HD Stream 1 displays 480i and then it happens... anywhere from 1 minute into the movie, the TV shuts off, the red light staying on and the green light flashing evey .5 seconds until it shuts off and attempts to turn on again.

:confused: :(
The obvious answer, which I don't want to believe is that the TVs upconverter from 480i to 720p is not working properly and I need a service technician to come out. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what could be happening here?

Look in the manual under LED Indications. You may find an answer there?

Hello,

I posted this over on the HTF but haven't had a reply and was hoping someone here may could help.

I recently bought a Toshiba 52hm95 DLP TV and have noticed that the picture on the TV is not centered properly. The bottom of the screen is cut off and a black bar runs across the top of the screen even when watching something in full screen. It's like the image is shifted downward.

I've tried every input and have tried DVDs in every stretch mode and it's always there. I've tried my xbox, gamecube, vcr, dvd, HDTV, and cable but no matter what i can't get that black bar off the top and the bottom part of the screen is cut off. Am i missing something?

I know how to get to the service menu but i dont know if this is something i could fix myself or if i'm better off exchanging the TV. BTW i dont plan on changing anything in the service menu but i didn't know if this is something that could be fixed in the service menu.

Other than the screen centering, this TV has a great picture so hopefully i can get this resolved.

Thanks,
Steve

Try checking out page 34 in the Owner's Manual. It explains the "Picture Scroll" function.
EDIT: I have a model 52HMX84. The info may be on a different page in the HM95 manual.

1. Make sure the TV is in TheaterWide 2 or 3 mode.
2. Press MENU and go to the PICTURE menu.
3. Move down the menu to untill the PICTURE SCROLL function is highlited.
4. Press Enter to display the Scroll Adjustment mode.
5. Use the up or down buttons on the remote to adjust the Vertical position of the picture.

Good luck. :)

My 52HM95 set just got Delivered! They took it out of the box and WOW, it's a really attractive set to look at. It looks much bigger in my living room than it did at the store. I have about 11 feet of viewing distance....

I can't wait to hook it up when I get home from work....I have to build the stand first but I will post more then........

If you had the choice...... 56HM195 vs 52HMX95

The 56HM195 has a larger screen at 1080P where as the the 53HMX95 is part of the Cinema Series. Silver vs black case. Maybe both have the HD4 wobbulated chip. I have the full specs but can't quote them. What's your opinion? I'm gonna buy one or the other pretty soon.

No, the LED codes I am seeing are suggesting an issue with the Bulb, but like I said, its working fine (watched 2 hours with no issue) when using the Cable Box 1080i. Only have the problem when the input is from a 480i device (Xbox, DVD).

I called Toshiba and they suggested using the standard RCA video jack. Please. That's like buying a new house and the microwave doesn't work so they ask if you've tried the toaster. I contacted a Toshiba Service Center and they are coming out next Tuesday to have a look.

So, NOBODY else has ever had this problem? Am I missing something here? ColorStream Input, RGB Component cables...

If you had the choice...... 56HM195 vs 52HMX95

The 56HM195 has a larger screen at 1080P where as the the 53HMX95 is part of the Cinema Series. Silver vs black case. Maybe both have the HD4 wobbulated chip. I have the full specs but can't quote them. What's your opinion? I'm gonna buy one or the other pretty soon.

I'm in the same position considering the same two sets and will make a purchase this week. I'm also considering the 52hm94. Even though its last years model, the hd2+ chip seems to always get decent reviews, whereas early opinions on the hm95 seem mixed.

I'm in the same position considering the same two sets and will make a purchase this week. I'm also considering the 52hm94. Even though its last years model, the hd2+ chip seems to always get decent reviews, whereas early opinions on the hm95 seem mixed.

I guess I just need some of your "ezcash", then it wouldn't really matter. With some "ezcash", I'd probably buy the 56MX195 and get the best of both worlds.

I guess I just need some of your "ezcash", then it wouldn't really matter. With some "ezcash", I'd probably buy the 56MX195 and get the best of both worlds.

Unfortunately i'm on a budget and price is a consideration. I didn't really view the hmx195 as the best of both worlds because it still has the wobbulated chip that many feel is inferior to the picture of the hd2+ chip on the hm94.

You have not seen teh mx195 in action. Again, WindowsXP looks great (mediacenter) running on this chip - even iwth small fonts. I was amazed.

I suggest you bring your 1920x1080p laptop to a Samsung store (they all have the VGA input) and look at your desktop. If oyu think wobbultin sucks compared to the HD2+ then so be it - IMHO I am amazed at the text quality

Unfortunately i'm on a budget and price is a consideration. I didn't really view the hmx195 as the best of both worlds because it still has the wobbulated chip that many feel is inferior to the picture of the hd2+ chip on the hm94.

Wobbulated or not, I'm going to order me the 52HMX95. I think I can get it delivered for around $2300. Add in a cheaper Bush 60" stand from Walmart.com for a total of ~ $2600. I'll have the dual HDMI connections, the VGA connector, Cinema Series and the new THINC ethernet port. As for the savings from buying last years model, I wouldn't save a lot. If the HMX95 set turns out to be a lil less than what I had hoped for, oh well. In a few years a good full 1080P non-wobbulated set will most likely sell for under $2000. Can you say UPGRADE? BTW, I had referred to the 56MX195 set, not the 56HMX195 because I don't think they make an HMX195 model. They do make the HMX95 and the HM195 but not a combo HMX195.

Wobbulated or not, I'm going to order me the 52HMX95. I think I can get it delivered for around $2300. Add in a cheaper Bush 60" stand from Walmart.com for a total of ~ $2600. I'll have the dual HDMI connections, the VGA connector, Cinema Series and the new THINC ethernet port. As for the savings from buying last years model, I wouldn't save a lot. If the HMX95 set turns out to be a lil less than what I had hoped for, oh well. In a few years a good full 1080P non-wobbulated set will most likely sell for under $2000. Can you say UPGRADE? BTW, I had referred to the 56MX195 set, not the 56HMX195 because I don't think they make an HMX195 model. They do make the HMX95 and the HM195 but not a combo HMX195.

What's the big difference from the hm95 and the hmx95? They both have 2 hdmi ports, is it the added vga connector and thinc ethernet port? I can get the hm95 delivered for under $1900, are the added features in the hmx worth the difference?

The only differences I see is that the HMX95 is all black, has more provisions to hook up a PC as well. Also it has an extra glass cover over the screen.

The only differences I see is that the HMX95 is all black, has more provisions to hook up a PC as well. Also it has an extra glass cover over the screen.

Thanks for the help, does the hm95 have an ethernet port besides the firewire?

What's the big difference from the hm95 and the hmx95? They both have 2 hdmi ports, is it the added vga connector and thinc ethernet port? I can get the hm95 delivered for under $1900, are the added features in the hmx worth the difference?

The 52HMX95 adds:
Virtual Dolby Surround
VGA for PC connection
THINC ethernet for PC (used to view jpgs and listen to MP3s from your PC)
All black cabinet
and is part of the Cinema Series (whatever that means)

So far the best price I've found for the 52HM95 ~ $1955 delivered
the best price for the 52HMX95 ~ $2330 delivered w/ extra one year warranty

The way I see it is the few extra conveniences on the HMX series + the extra 1 year warranty (which includes buld replacement) covers the $375 cost difference easily. But too for me, the company with the HMX version is within driving distance so if things get ugly I can return/replace it for a few dollars in fuel.

Thanks for the help, does the hm95 have an ethernet port besides the firewire?

No, the HM95 does not have a ethernet port according to Toshiba specs online. It does have 2 firewire ports, which appears to be standard on most all models this year.

The 52HMX95 adds:
Virtual Dolby Surround
VGA for PC connection
THINC ethernet for PC (used to view jpgs and listen to MP3s from your PC)
All black cabinet
and is part of the Cinema Series (whatever that means)

So far the best price I've found for the 52HM95 ~ $1955 delivered
the best price for the 52HMX95 ~ $2330 delivered w/ extra one year warranty

The way I see it is the few extra conveniences on the HMX series + the extra 1 year warranty (which includes buld replacement) covers the $375 cost difference easily. But too for me, the company with the HMX version is within driving distance so if things get ugly I can return/replace it for a few dollars in fuel.

Thanks for the details, thats what I was looking for. Guess I'll be fine with the jpeg viewer feature on the hm95 as I can't see any overwhelming reason to hook up my pc to it at this point. Thanks for the tip on the Bush stand, I was ready to get the Toshiba stand, but the Bush one actually looks nicer even if it doesn't fit the tv as snug.

I just hooked up my 52hm95. All I can say is so far it has exceeded my expectations

Right now I am just running basic cable into the TV....not digital, satallite, or HD. The picture looks the similar to my 4 yr old 36" sony wega, but colors are much more crisper and the picture is brighter. I am using factory settings and have not touched them yet. The picture strongly depends on the quality of feed. Some channels didnt look so hot and some looked really good. From a few feet away, yes it looks grainy, but from my 9-11' viewing distance none of that could be seen. When I get my cable box and give it an HD and digital feed I expect the picture to improve a lot.

I watched a few chapters from Attack of the clones. I am using a non-progressive scan DVD player with a 480i feed hooked through component video. ALL I can say is WOW! Amazing clarity. The darker scenes looks incredible. Some of the bright day light scenes look a bit washed out, but like I said I am still on factory settings. I expect once I calibrate the set and get my progressive scan HDMI DVD player teh picture will again improve.

Few more things.....

Sound is impressive
The bars on the side of the letterbox are BLACK! (not gray like the 84 series)

The Stand....

I love the Matching stand. Luckily I got a killer deal on it. Once it is built it looks really sharp but the construction is pretty cheap. Since the TV doesn't weigh a lot I don't think I will have any problems though. No way is it worth or would I pay anywhere near 300 for it. Haggle on this! It wasn't that hard to put together but the instructions are crapola....very hard to follow. I kind of went with logic and it all worked out. Also the glass shelf doesn't seem like it can hold much weight. I would put the heavy components like the reciever on the bottom for sure.

I just hooked up my 52hm95. All I can say is so far it has exceeded my expectations

Few more things.....

Sound is impressive
The bars on the side of the letterbox are BLACK! (not gray like the 84 series)

The Stand....

I love the Matching stand. It wasn't that hard to put together but the instructions are crapola....very hard to follow. I kind of went with logic and it all worked out. Also the glass shelf doesn't seem like it can hold much weight. I would put the heavy components like the reciever on the bottom for sure.

I'm glad you're happy with your new HM95 set. My wife wants to buy the same set but I think I'm going to opt for the HMX95 instead. To get away from the stand with it's issues, I think I'll buy this one from Bush instead.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3601502

Glad to hear you like the 52hm95..I pick mine up today. I agree with you about the stand. I put it together last night and was surprised at how cheesy it really is....I am glad I didn't pay for it! Its probably worth about $99 but thats about it. No wonder they give it away...I think it looks nice especially how it matches the TV its just built cheap.

No, the LED codes I am seeing are suggesting an issue with the Bulb, but like I said, its working fine (watched 2 hours with no issue) when using the Cable Box 1080i. Only have the problem when the input is from a 480i device (Xbox, DVD).

I called Toshiba and they suggested using the standard RCA video jack. Please. That's like buying a new house and the microwave doesn't work so they ask if you've tried the toaster. I contacted a Toshiba Service Center and they are coming out next Tuesday to have a look.

So, NOBODY else has ever had this problem? Am I missing something here? ColorStream Input, RGB Component cables...


AZMadHatter -- I have the 53HM84 and am running my DVD player through ColorStream 1 and have never had an issue - in fact i rigged my player to output in 480i, 720p, and 1080i through the colorstream and all settings are fine. Hopefully the tech will find the problem quickly for you ----

Glad to hear you like the 52hm95..I pick mine up today. I agree with you about the stand. I put it together last night and was surprised at how cheesy it really is....I am glad I didn't pay for it! Its probably worth about $99 but thats about it. No wonder they give it away...I think it looks nice especially how it matches the TV its just built cheap.I guess I'm in the minority but I actually like the stand. I don't think this TV (with the side speakers) and design of the base would look good with any other stand. Now the MX195's and HM195's with the speakers on the bottom would look good with many of the current stands available.

I agree that the factory stand would look best with the side-speaker type models. But then again, I've never been the type to choose beauty over functionality. I'd much prefer to have a stand that works perfectly over one that looks perfect. Who needs that beautiful blonde if she can't figure out how to get out of her clothes and insist she does it without your help?

Yeah the stand is a love / hate relationship. It does seem cheap but not any worse than any other particle board type stand that you put together yourself. In the end it looks the best with the TV in my opinion, it matches it and has a perfect fit. That bush stand is nice, but to be honest I only paid about 30 bucks more for the toshiba stand. That Bush stand will match the HMX95 in all black nice, but might look wierd with a grey tv. I would go silver stand with a silver TV or wood.

Don't get me wrong...I agree the stand looks good with the tv. I also don't think the tv would work well with any other stand. My current stand for my Sony RP has a swivel base and has a higher quality and it was only $250 from TechCraft. I was just commenting on how surprised I was in how Toshiba's stand was built.

Well after a week a viewing with my 52HMX84 I’m still very impressed. Just bought an up conversion Toshiba dvd player the 4980 and hooked it up last night w/ HDMI and did some testing with IRobt and it looks brighter than my older Toshiba progressive scan player (3755). I do need a calibration disc though. I’ve been using other people’s calibrations I researched here in this thread and wrote down like 10 and have been going off those. Not the best way, I know.

I’m not sure I can tell a lot of difference between the two players but I do not want to drop more cash on a player I’ll be replacing in a year when the HD/Blueray crap comes out. Also, I noticed that when on my HD channels through Comcast, when a program is not in HD, my side bars are indeed black, not gray. However, all the other standard channels do have gray side bars, but I use theater wide 1. But the standard stations look like crap anyways so who cares if there are black bars or gray? I bought this tv for HD and dvds, and all my programming is on HD.

Quick question: When viewing dvds do you Toshiba owners switch to FILM mode and then also use the MOVIE preference video settings? I think they’re all 50’s from Contrast to Sharpness. It looks a little better than some of the avia settings I’m using.

Hello wmarkw: Most of us start with STANDARD and use FILM, then apply AVIA and SAVE the settings. This should bring the best results for any material and it's a good starting point to adjust your cable and other video signals.

I have hte movie preference but the stock specs are too dark and washed out. The picture mode called PREFERENCE looks killer but I know it is overbright and over contrasted but the dark scenes look like 3D. I have to play around with it tonight.

WHAT IS FILM MODE? I just select the dvd and hit play and the picture mode goes to FULL.

Also, I noticed that when on my HD channels through Comcast, when a program is not in HD, my side bars are indeed black, not gray. However, all the other standard channels do have gray side bars, but I use theater wide 1. But the standard stations look like crap anyways so who cares if there are black bars or gray? I bought this tv for HD and dvds, and all my programming is on HD.The black bars are generated by the broadcaster. For standard 4:3 programming unless you program the STB to output black bars the signal is sent intact to the TV and it uses the gray bars generated by the Toshiba. This has been changed with this years models and it now uses balck bars. If you have a Motorola STB you can turn the 4:3 option to "off" which will generate black bars on each side to match the resolution of your component/DVI setting. Using this method you have no ability to use the Toshiba stretch modes. I prefer to set the 4:3 option to 480i and if I want to stretch the picture I can or leave it intact and deal with the gray bars. Some people don't like to stretch the picture but the TW1 mode does a good job. It leaves the main area of the pciture intact and slightly stretches the left and right sides to fill the screen.

I have hte movie preference but the stock specs are too dark and washed out. The picture mode called PREFERENCE looks killer but I know it is overbright and over contrasted but the dark scenes look like 3D. I have to play around with it tonight.

WHAT IS FILM MODE? I just select the dvd and hit play and the picture mode goes to FULL.

We hope you don't just "play" with it, use AVIA or DE or other good TV setup DVD, else you won't get the good stuff.

FILM mode activates some image processing for the Component inputs.

If your picture goes always to FULL, it's one of 2 things:

1) You have the AUTO ASPECT feature of the TV ON, which for most widescreen material goes to FULL and 4:3 goes to NORMAL. Turn it OFF and manually check out what you prefer for different material. Personally, as I like to use most of the screen, with 4:3 I use Theaterwide 1, for widescreen of less than 2 (ex. 1.77 or 1.85) ratio FULL is perfect, and for larger than 2 (ex. 2.35) Theaterwide 3 works fine.

2) If you have an upconverting player and use 720P, the TV will always use a FULL set. Personally, for the same reason, I use 480P for bigger than 2 material and 720P for less than 2 material.

Well I’ve been saving all of my calibrations under preference not standard, as I thought the preference setting is well your preference. So do you leave you video setting in film mode during HD watching or video mode?

Well I’ve been saving all of my calibrations under preference not standard, as I thought the preference setting is well your preference. So do you leave you video setting in film mode during HD watching or video mode?Anytime you start in a particular setting (i.e. Movie, Sports, etc) and modify the settings they automatically become the preference setting. For normal DVD viewing you want "film mode". From my understanding the only time you may want to use "video mode" is when viewing DVD's of TV shows (i.e. Seinfeld).

Well... I've had my 46Hm94 for about 4 days now and let me just say that I am very happy with it. I actually look forward to rushing home to watch a DVD or some primetime HD on this baby.

My Oppo seems to be a perfect combination with this TV and with some tweaking here and there, I have managed to get the settings really nice for my viewing environment. Now maybe I should work a bit on increasing my viewing distance because I'm sitting about 6.7 feet from the screen.... is this too close?

Here is a picture of my huble setup, notice I moved the TV further back on the stand to give myself a few more inches of viewing distance.

How do I go into film mode? As far as picture modes I only have sports, normal movie,etc.

2:35:1 movies will always have black bars on the top and bottom of the set. If you fill the screen on a 2.35:1 movie u are zooming the image taking away from quality. I agree 1:85 movies fill the screen. I also agree that threatrewide 1 setting is best to stretch normal TV shows to widescreen.

What was strange was when watching HBO the other night in Normal setting I had bars on top and bottom AND left and right....wierd.

When you go into your menu you will see either the option to select FILM or VIDEO mode. It's not in your picture settings, it's on the front page. I have mine set to VIDEO for HD viewing and FILM for my dvd input. I'm now going to switch everything to FILM mode

Well... I've had my 46Hm95 for about 4 days now and let me just say that I am very happy with it. I actually look forward to rushing home to watch a DVD or some primetime HD on this baby.



Tattootearz,

I'm sure it's just a typo on your part, but it looks to me like you own a 46HM94, not the newer 95. Did you compare the two, and pick the 94? If so, what did you think? I've been looking for a 94 myself, as I personally haven't seen a 95 that impresses me much. Thanks.

Tattootearz,

I'm sure it's just a typo on your part, but it looks to me like you own a 46HM94, not the newer 95. Did you compare the two, and pick the 94? If so, what did you think? I've been looking for a 94 myself, as I personally haven't seen a 95 that impresses me much. Thanks.
certainly a TYPO... lol...

but yea... the 46HM94 is what I own. I was actually looking to replace a POS Maxent 42X3 and I came across this baby at Costco... honestly, everything I've read has been that the 94 is better than the 95. I have not done any comparisons myself but this unit rocks. Ive been watching alot of HD, DVD & SD material over the last few days and I am very happy... I think the 95 has 2 HDMI Inputs and the black bezel which puts it over the 94... but in terms of PQ the concensus seems to be the 94 is the way to go.

I've done some minor calibrations with AVIA and it has served me well. Good luck in your search.

I would definately go with the 95. What doesn't impress you? Again it's all about the feed and calibration. Teh sets I saw looked very similar in the store. The 95 seemed to be brighter and have better black levels,but the 94 looked good too. Since the prices were about the same (got a killer deal on a 95) I decided the extra features of the 95 were worth it. Having only one HMDI input is not acceptible and I didn't want to mess around with a switch. I also like the black bezel it blends in with the letter box and BLACK BARS (94 has grey bars) better for a seamless look when watching movies in the dark.

How do I go into film mode? As far as picture modes I only have sports, normal movie,etc.It's in the Video menu under Theater Settings. Look for Cinema mode (i.e. film or video).

...Now maybe I should work a bit on increasing my viewing distance because I'm sitting about 6.7 feet from the screen.... is this too close?...

You can try going to 8 or 9 feet, should be a better experience.

...2:35:1 movies will always have black bars on the top and bottom of the set. If you fill the screen on a 2.35:1 movie u are zooming the image taking away from quality. I agree 1:85 movies fill the screen. I also agree that threatrewide 1 setting is best to stretch normal TV shows to widescreen.

What was strange was when watching HBO the other night in Normal setting I had bars on top and bottom AND left and right....wierd.

I've tested this a lot, the loss in quality is almost none when using Theaterwide 3, it's a testament to how good the Toshiba scaler and image enhancements are...it's certainly much better than the zoom my Panny S77 player can do. Try it in good quality transfered movies like I Robot, Star Wars, and such.

Yes, the bars will be there, but much smaller. There are some movies, like Criterion's special edition of Armaggedon, that although specified at 2:35, they go wider. With those the bars are huge, but Theaterwide 2 takes good care of them.

The issue with bars all around comes probably if your box has an auto zoom feature or some zoom setting that forces to show the whole image at the correct ratio. Check on that and play with the settings; my experience with those is that it's better to leave the devices at "standard" or "normal" and let the Toshiba do the zooming.

On page 15 of my 46HM84 Toshiba DLP manual, it says that this tv is not intended for connection to and should not be used with a PC.

Why not?

Does a PC hurt it in some way?

Is it okay to hook up a Playstation 2?

I've had this tv for a couple weeks so far and it has exceeded my expectations. It's totally awesome!

However, my son is pestering me to try out the Playstation 2 on it, so I was concerned about the disclaimer in the manual about hooking up to a PC.

On page 15 of my 46HM84 Toshiba DLP manual, it says that this tv is not intended for connection to and should not be used with a PC.

Why not?

Does a PC hurt it in some way?

Is it okay to hook up a Playstation 2?

I've had this tv for a couple weeks so far and it has exceeded my expectations. It's totally awesome!

However, my son is pestering me to try out the Playstation 2 on it, so I was concerned about the disclaimer in the manual about hooking up to a PC.

It should work fine with the PS2. Plenty of people here have hooked up PC's to the TV. I think the reason they say not to is:

A.) They sell a more expensive model with a DVI port specifically for PC connection
B.) They dont want tech support flooded with people having issues with it.

OK, to get straight to the point:

Give me opinions on the 62HMX94, Cinema Series 94 and how does it compare to the 95...

Thanks,

On FILM vs VIDEO discussion my understanding is it works like this… on some dvd’s there is extra information which can be decoded for better picture. You can recognize this information by having the FILM mode turned on. The VIDEO mode will not recognize this extra information. But VIDEO is the recommended setting for all types of tv viewing, whether SD or HD. (In reality will your eyes notice any difference whether you watch tv in film or video mode... probably not).

But anyhow, the extra information on the disc can be decoded by either your dvd player or the tv, it just depends on the player and tv as to which will do the better job of it. Generally the dvd player should do a better job since that’s what its built for. So for me, I set the dvd player to FILM so it decodes the info and passes it to the tv. Then television doesn’t have to be in FILM mode at this point, it just receives what has been decoded by the dvd player. This way I can always leave the tv in VIDEO mode, as its supposed to be for tv viewing, and I never have to change any settings.

I posted this in a separate thread, but this thread might be the best place for it.

I purchased a 46hm84 a couple of months ago. While I'm very happy with the picture quality and the set overall, there are a couple of nagging issues which I wanted to display here. Basically, I'm looking to find out if these things are normal, or whether any of them would warrant a call to Toshiba before the warranty expires.

First, the picture appears to be somewhat 'pincushioned' or bowed in at the sides. More specifically, the outer edges of the bottom portion of the picture bow out slightly. This is most apparent when viewing 4:3 signals unstretched, and is illustrated in the following image (apologies for the blurriness, the pictures were taken without a flash and they're probably adequate for this purpose).

http://www.grkmcrp.com/46hm84a.jpg

This image also illustrates my second issue. When viewing 480p material (in this case a gamecube game), the signal doesn't seem to fill my available viewing space, either stretched or unstretched. Note the vertical black bar on the left edge of the 4:3 picture. I don't think I'm losing any picture on the right, but this is still odd. It's also maintained when viewing 480p at 16x9 (see the image below).

http://www.grkmcrp.com/46hm84b.jpg

I noticed a third issue last night which doesn't affect PQ, but is a little concerning anyway. It's only really apparent when the room is dark (I'll try to take a picture of it tonight). Basically, when the screen is viewed from a high angle (up close), there are two sort of diagonal light patches on the lower right portion of the screen. These are most apparent when the TV screen is on but there is no signal (i.e. a black screen). These patches are invisible during viewing, as they can't be seen from a front-on view. It looks almost as if there's something inside the TV casting a 'light shadow' (???) aside from the normal projection. I discovered this when walking to the TV to turn it off after I'd already turned off the source.

Like I said, I'm very happy with the set overall, but I wanted to run these issues by the experts here to see if any of them would warrant a call to Toshiba. I'll try to get an image of the third issue tonight. I'd appreciate any help or feedback! Thanks.

The images below illustrate the diagonal light patches that I mentioned above. There are basically two lines which appear to radiate from the bottom middle of the TV, but only on the right side. These do not affect actual viewing, as they're only visible when viewing the screen from above. I'm just wondering what the heck they could be, basically.

http://www.grkmcrp.com/46hm84c.jpg

http://www.grkmcrp.com/46hm84d.jpg

Hello gkrykewi: The "pincushion" effect is a well known issue with these units and apparently there's no solution for it. Your other issue, the image not filling the whole screen, seems to be the source image. If you noticed the 4:3 with grey bars, the image didn't went all the way to the right, apparently the original is meant to be that way. Please test this issue with other material, see if it keeps showing that black space there.

The "light patches" you see are part of the "forming" the image. Remember this TVs are meant to be seen straight and some angles at the side, not from the top or bottom...at least not that close or sharp an angle. That's normal and if you move around at that distance, you can see other weird stuff.

Hello gkrykewi: I have the 62hm195 and I have a similar problem. I get two light splotches in the lower right hand corner on certain black scenes only. I called in a warranty tech and he thinks it is dirt/dust problem and is going to clean the lens, etc. I also have a problem with the fans being overly loud, so when replaces the fans he'll also clean the lens, etc. I'd put in a service call if I were you. I do not get any other reflections or screen door effects talked about in some of the other comments. I really like the PQ otherwise and would really like to keep the set, but I'm still within the 30 day return policy from where I purchased the set.

Hello gkrykewi: I have the 62hm195 and I have a similar problem. I get two light splotches in the lower right hand corner on certain black scenes only. I called in a warranty tech and he thinks it is dirt/dust problem and is going to clean the lens, etc. I also have a problem with the fans being overly loud, so when replaces the fans he'll also clean the lens, etc. I'd put in a service call if I were you. I do not get any other reflections or screen door effects talked about in some of the other comments. I really like the PQ otherwise and would really like to keep the set, but I'm still within the 30 day return policy from where I purchased the set.


I can almost say for certain that both of you have dust on probably the optical block. I had this problem, my local service center took it in and cleaned it all up. Then they tried to seal it up better so it wouldn't happen again. No big deal other than your TV being gone for a week or so, depending on how busy they are.

The bowing issue in some games used to happen on my 32" Samsung set as well, especially with EA games, this is an issue with the game. I'm talking about the black line on the side of the screen that is bigger at the top. Though the bowing issues with SD TV is the fault of the set.

Hello gkrykewi: I have the 62hm195 and I have a similar problem. I get two light splotches in the lower right hand corner on certain black scenes only. I called in a warranty tech and he thinks it is dirt/dust problem and is going to clean the lens, etc.

It's interesting that you also have two splotches in the same location - that makes it sound more like something inherent to the TV line rather than random dust. Are your splotches visible from a normal viewing angle? Mine are only visible up close to the TV when looking down on it... and only at night, really.

I can almost say for certain that both of you have dust on probably the optical block. I had this problem, my local service center took it in and cleaned it all up. Then they tried to seal it up better so it wouldn't happen again. No big deal other than your TV being gone for a week or so, depending on how busy they are.

Well, the issue isn't visible during the day with natural light in the room; I'd be hard-pressed to show it to a service tech. Since it's not visible from a normal viewing angle, I suppose I'll just wait to see if it gets any worse, or if more lines appear, etc. Good to know that it's repairable in any case.

DHadyk so you just got your 195 this week right. This is good to know about the
your issue with the Toshiba...

On scale of 1 -10 how would you rate the fan noise?

T

Hello gkrykewi: I have the 62hm195 and I have a similar problem. I get two light splotches in the lower right hand corner on certain black scenes only. I called in a warranty tech and he thinks it is dirt/dust problem and is going to clean the lens, etc. I also have a problem with the fans being overly loud, so when replaces the fans he'll also clean the lens, etc. I'd put in a service call if I were you. I do not get any other reflections or screen door effects talked about in some of the other comments. I really like the PQ otherwise and would really like to keep the set, but I'm still within the 30 day return policy from where I purchased the set.

52hm95 vs 56hm195

In short, if i decide to go with 52... What would i be missing in terms of picture quality?! I dont care about PC connectors, cablecards, tv guide etc etc

Lastly what cables would i need DVI, HDMI, Monster, etc etc ive been reading about this and im still confused...Which cables would i need considering if i get one of those TV's mentioned for best picture and sound

I dont have any UPSCALE DVD player at least i dont think i do..

What i have....

I have the Home Theater In a Package with Progressive Scan DVD Player.. Panasonic - SA-HT700....Would i have to get a new DVD player for best picture?

And my cable company offers following HDTV cable boxes TWCNYC....
Pioneer HD Cable Box and
Scientific Atlanta HD Cable Box :o

hey guys... anyone using a 720P Toshiba set with an Oppo DV971H through the HDMI port might wanna visit the Toshiba 720p DLP & Oppo DVD Player Settings/Callibration Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=592427)

I thought it would be a great way to just isolate the best general settings for optimal picture quality when using these 2 components.

DHadyk so you just got your 195 this week right. This is good to know about the
your issue with the Toshiba...

On scale of 1 -10 how would you rate the fan noise?

T

The fan noise is a constant annoyance and is particularly noticable when there is no audio from what ever you happen to be watching. I'm not sure how to rate it on your scale. Also disturbing is the concept that a fan must keep operating even when the set is turned off!!! The replacement fans should be in this week.

As much as I like the PQ, let's just say that if both the light splotch problem and the fan noise problem are not fixed I plan on returning the set. :(

I have a problem with the fan and it's not sound, it's interference with my receivers radio. If I turn on the radio, the TV's fan makes hearing AM stations nearly impossible.

Any effective solutions for this?

The fan noise is a constant annoyance and is particularly noticable when there is no audio from what ever you happen to be watching. I'm not sure how to rate it on your scale. Also disturbing is the concept that a fan must keep operating even when the set is turned off!!! The replacement fans should be in this week.

As much as I like the PQ, let's just say that if both the light splotch problem and the fan noise problem are not fixed I plan on returning the set. :(

If the concept of cooling the light bulb for 60-90 seconds after the TV is turned off is troubling, then you ought to be looking at different technology. Cooling off the bulb extends its' life. I've gotten use to it.

That said, like you I dislike the fan noise when a show has quiet moments. For me the trade off from using my old RPCRT is better PQ and smaller footprint.

If the concept of cooling the light bulb for 60-90 seconds after the TV is turned off is troubling, then you ought to be looking at different technology. Cooling off the bulb extends its' life. I've gotten use to it.

That said, like you I dislike the fan noise when a show has quiet moments. For me the trade off from using my old RPCRT is better PQ and smaller footprint.


There is one fan that does not shutoff at all. I think it cools the tuner? For what I don't know. :mad:

I have a problem with the fan and it's not sound, it's interference with my receivers radio. If I turn on the radio, the TV's fan makes hearing AM stations nearly impossible.

Any effective solutions for this?That sounds more like an electrical issue, possibly related to a poor ground. I can never hear any of my fans unless I have my ear next to the back of the TV.

Another possibility is the AM antenna. What happens if you remove the antenna?

Hello Guys, I have not gotten a reply on my earlier post. Can some please help.. Thanks

I just bought a Toshiba DLP model 46MH94. The picture is fantastic. I got it to work with a Cablecard from Time Warner.
I have just one problem, I hope some can help since Toshiba customer service is horrible and useless.
I am unable to use the remote to dial in 4-digit channels. I can only dial in 3 digits. So if I want to go to channel 1104, I can only dial in 110. To get to 1104, I have to dial in 999 then scan up to 1104. What a pain !! I tried dialing 110, then the (-) then 4, but it does not work.
Any sugesstions?

That sounds more like an electrical issue, possibly related to a poor ground. I can never hear any of my fans unless I have my ear next to the back of the TV.

Another possibility is the AM antenna. What happens if you remove the antenna?

I have a 56MX195 on order and hope the fan noise (as you described it for your set) is minimal and non-intrusive. Idealy, as you've described! :)

Hello Guys, I have not gotten a reply on my earlier post. Can some please help.. Thanks

I just bought a Toshiba DLP model 46MH94. The picture is fantastic. I got it to work with a Cablecard from Time Warner.
I have just one problem, I hope some can help since Toshiba customer service is horrible and useless.
I am unable to use the remote to dial in 4-digit channels. I can only dial in 3 digits. So if I want to go to channel 1104, I can only dial in 110. To get to 1104, I have to dial in 999 then scan up to 1104. What a pain !! I tried dialing 110, then the (-) then 4, but it does not work.
Any sugesstions?

I remember you plea for help several days/weeks back. maybe somebody will answer this time. You claim the cable card from TW worked for you. Do you have the full TV Guide available as many user claim issues? Also what area do you live in? I have TW/BrightHouse here and can't get them to tell me anything. I'm considering the HMX95 and hope the TV Guide will work possbily with the cable card rather than the box.

I remember you plea for help several days/weeks back. maybe somebody will answer this time. You claim the cable card from TW worked for you. Do you have the full TV Guide available as many user claim issues? Also what area do you live in? I have TW/BrightHouse here and can't get them to tell me anything. I'm considering the HMX95 and hope the TV Guide will work possbily with the cable card rather than the box.


The Cable Card from TW works. The card is manufactured by Scientific Atlanta. If you have TW, ask them for the SA card. I think they have a cards from a couple of suppliers. I am in 91324 area.
The TV Guide does not work. According to Toshiba, this should be fixed after I install a firmware upgrade. I expect to receive it any time now (if they shipped it when they said they did). Toshiba also claims that the upgrade will allow me to dial-in 4-digit channels. I hope so!
As far as the TV is concerned, it is fantastic !! We just need to fix the few bugs.

Hello Guys, I have not gotten a reply on my earlier post. Can some please help.. Thanks

I just bought a Toshiba DLP model 46MH94. The picture is fantastic. I got it to work with a Cablecard from Time Warner.
I have just one problem, I hope some can help since Toshiba customer service is horrible and useless.
I am unable to use the remote to dial in 4-digit channels. I can only dial in 3 digits. So if I want to go to channel 1104, I can only dial in 110. To get to 1104, I have to dial in 999 then scan up to 1104. What a pain !! I tried dialing 110, then the (-) then 4, but it does not work.
Any sugesstions?Does the channel show up under the Installation menu under the channel add/delete option? I have two channels that show up in that menu that don't seem to have a signal but I can type 1000 and get channel 1000 and type channel 1045 and get 1045. The - will not work as that is for a direct cable feed where you don't have a STB where they use sub-channels. For example, prior to getting my STB ESPN was 114-1. In order to view that channel I would type 114-1 on the remote.

On my 62MX195, I'm finding that on really light scenes, there appears to be a white streak that runs diagonally from the bottom right hand corner of the screen to almost the center. Any ideas on what this might be?

The Cable Card from TW works. The card is manufactured by Scientific Atlanta. If you have TW, ask them for the SA card. I think they have a cards from a couple of suppliers. I am in 91324 area.
The TV Guide does not work. According to Toshiba, this should be fixed after I install a firmware upgrade. I expect to receive it any time now (if they shipped it when they said they did). Toshiba also claims that the upgrade will allow me to dial-in 4-digit channels. I hope so!
As far as the TV is concerned, it is fantastic !! We just need to fix the few bugs.
Hey by any chance do you know where I ca read more about the firmware upgrade on 46HM94? How is it installed? Is it flash upgrade through the Card Reader? Firewire?

What else does it fix?

That sounds more like an electrical issue, possibly related to a poor ground. I can never hear any of my fans unless I have my ear next to the back of the TV.

Another possibility is the AM antenna. What happens if you remove the antenna?

Haven't check, but I'll probably won't be able to receive the AM stations...right?

Hey by any chance do you know where I ca read more about the firmware upgrade on 46HM94? How is it installed? Is it flash upgrade through the Card Reader? Firewire?

What else does it fix?

I cannot find anything on the firmware upgrade. I knew about it from Toshiba Tech support. According to them, the upgrade is on either SD or CF card. You insert it into the memory port in the right side of the TV ( where you would insert memory modules to view pictures) and the upgrade is automatic and according to Toshiba it comes with instructions and fixes TV guide and 4-digit channel issues. I hope to receive it today or tomorrow. I will let the forum know what happened.

Cheers,

The Cable Card from TW works. The card is manufactured by Scientific Atlanta. If you have TW, ask them for the SA card. I think they have a cards from a couple of suppliers. I am in 91324 area.
The TV Guide does not work. According to Toshiba, this should be fixed after I install a firmware upgrade. I expect to receive it any time now (if they shipped it when they said they did). Toshiba also claims that the upgrade will allow me to dial-in 4-digit channels. I hope so!
As far as the TV is concerned, it is fantastic !! We just need to fix the few bugs.
Can you keep me/us up to date on how your firmware upgrade goes and whether or not it fixes all the issues you have? Well, maybe not all of your issues, but at least the 4 digit channel and the TV Guide issues.

Haven't check, but I'll probably won't be able to receive the AM stations...right?Yes, but that would tell you it's a problem with the antenna and you could research a fix, such as an antenna isolator. See below:

: There is a humming noise coming through my speakers. How do I fix it?

A: Audio Hum is most likely caused by a ground loop problem. Connecting components that are plugged into the same electrical circuit causes ground loops. To remove the hum, you will need to re-plug one of the components into a separate circuit, or purchase an Audio Isolator [sometimes referred to as a Ground Loop Isolator]. The Audio Isolator will break the loop of the ungrounded current and quiet the hum. If you are living in an older home that does not have a properly grounded electrical system, the Audio Isolator may be your only solution.

Some people experience hum that is the result of antenna interference. In these cases there are two options. You can simply remove the antenna, or you may purchase and install an Antenna Isolator.

I dont know if this issue is buried somewhere in this huge thread but i didnt see it.. Anyways, im finding that any source i put through my HDMI on my 62hmx84 looks like total dogcrap. This is with two different STBs. Any known issues with the HDMI input on this model??? The two STBs are a DirecTV H10 and a SA Explorer 8300HD

The fan on my 52HM95 is very quite. What troubles me is that one of teh fans is always on 24/7 as long as the tv is plugged in. Again you can't hear it unless you kneel down beside the TV but is this normal?

I just bought the 46HM94 last weekend and love the PQ so far. I was able to tune HD local broadcasts via the built-in QAM tuner from basic Comcast feed.
I wanted to ask if anyone tinkered with the service menu that much or if anyone found a way to get rid of those annoying grey bars (when in 4:3 mode)? I haven't finished reading the entire 117 page thread so I apologize if this has already been mentioned before.

I dont know if this issue is buried somewhere in this huge thread but i didnt see it.. Anyways, im finding that any source i put through my HDMI on my 62hmx84 looks like total dogcrap. This is with two different STBs. Any known issues with the HDMI input on this model??? The two STBs are a DirecTV H10 and a SA Explorer 8300HD
Well that don't sound too reassuring. I'm looking at buying the 52HMX95 soon. I don't recall many complaints here about HDMI inputs looking terrible. As a matter of fact most people claim it looks good even when converting DVI to HDMI. Could it be possible you have a lemon?

I dont know if this issue is buried somewhere in this huge thread but i didnt see it.. Anyways, im finding that any source i put through my HDMI on my 62hmx84 looks like total dogcrap. This is with two different STBs. Any known issues with the HDMI input on this model??? The two STBs are a DirecTV H10 and a SA Explorer 8300HD

I have this model and I get a great picture through HDMI from DVD or HD tuner. If you are watching standard definition programming from your cable box it will look pretty lousy no matter what input you use on a screen this big. However, any HD feed or a good DVD player should give you a picture that is nothing short of breathtaking.

The fan on my 52HM95 is very quite. What troubles me is that one of teh fans is always on 24/7 as long as the tv is plugged in. Again you can't hear it unless you kneel down beside the TV but is this normal?

Bill97Z - I don't own that model but from reading the thread for a while I do believe that the fan for the cable card will always be on --- If you do in fact have a cable card installed then that is probably the issue ----

I should be taking delivery of the Toshiba 72HM195 in a week or so and would like to find out what I should do about my DVD player. I have an older Sony model which works fine but it's not a progressive scan model.

Just how bad will be the picture be while watching a DVD with this ancient model? Do you recommend I keep this for a while and wait for the HD DVD or Blue-Ray models to come out or should I purchase a reasonably priced progressive scan model like the Toshiba SD4980?

I'm sure after I take delivery I'll have all kinds of questions. This is replacing my 53" Hitachi Ultravision projection TV and I have never had HD or a Tivo like device so I am sure I'll be posting here quite often.

Thanks in advance!

Where the heck can I buy one of these wonderful Toshibas? I can't find them anywhere - not Tweeter, CC, BB, Sears. They only have the old stuff and/or small screen sizes (<60"). Grrrrr. I'm looking for a 62 or 72" 1080p set. I have cash in hand, am ready to make a purchase and nobody sells them! I may have to go w/ the Mits 62628 since nobody carries Toshiba. I started to look at Samsung but after reading their 1080p thread, I think you'd have to be nuts to buy a Samsung considering all the issues discussed in that thread.

BTW, I live in Knoxville, TN if anybody knows of any other B&M stores to shop at.

ok so its been a few days since I setup my 52HM95 and here is my opinion.

Its Awesome! My wife is even impressed. I have the Comcast DVR hooked up via HDMI to DVI adapter and the picture looks great even the SD channels are better than I expected. One thing that really impresses me is that I have the TV in a very bright room with windows on all sides and the screen is still very bright in daylight. My last RP LCD by Sony was unwatchable in daytime...I felt bad for my kids. It looked as if it was shutoff it was so dark!

I also have a Toshiba DVD/VCR combo hooked up via Component1 and it looks great! My sound goes through Toslink cables to an Onkyo receiver so I don't really use the speakers except for the xBox that is hooked up to Component2 via HD dongles. But the sound was good when I tested it...I will hook another Toslink cable to the xBox sometime soon to port through my receiver.

I used DVE to calibrate the TV and will probably do it again for each input. I also toyed around with plugging in a second COAX from the cable to Ant1 to test the TV Guide. The next day it was populated with programs and worked fine. I dont need that feature since I use Comcast's DVR and Guide but I wanted to test it.

Regarding the ease of use...I would say that the setup is kind of confusing to the Novice User. I wish there was One remote to operate all the devices. Especially when my wife was trying to get used to the Toshiba remote and switching INPUTS. She would change the channel to the TV moving to Ant1 rather than selecting the HDMI1 and got all confused. She had video and sound from Ant1 and another show's sound coming throught the receiver from the cable box. It was really weird to listen to.

Anyhow I kinda solved all that by coding the Comcast remote to operate 90% of what she needs. Also I disconnected the Ant1 so she would see STATIC rather than SD shows and not confuse the STB from ANT1. If I didn't like the DVR so much I would try to setup the TV to do it all.

All in All its the best TV for the money in my opinion and I would recommend it to anyone! Thanks to all here for their posts I read every one since Dec04! (I have waited along time)

Regards,

Mitch

Count Porkula: I ordered mine on line and will post my experience one way or the other on this thread. If it gets delivered as promissed and I have no issues with the set then I'll share the info.

I stopped by my local Cambridge Soundworks because I was set on getting a Sammy but to my surprise I found out CSW is phasing out Sammy because of reliability issues. That's what turned me on to Tosh but they did not have the 72" in stock and aren't sure when they will get one.

My TV room is too big for a 62 so I opted for the 72" which should look quite nice as a main focal point in the room. My old 53" rptv was lost in the room and looked silly. Wife gave me the option of buying a huge entertainment center for the 53" or to get a larger TV. The choice was an easy one.

Anyhow I kinda solved all that by coding the Comcast remote to operate 90% of what she needs. Also I disconnected the Ant1 so she would see STATIC rather than SD shows and not confuse the STB from ANT1. If I didn't like the DVR so much I would try to setup the TV to do it all.


Mitch


Hey Mitch how did you get the comcast remote to work with the tv?? There isn't a code listed for the Motorola box and the Toshiba. Unless I'm blind as a bat I didn't see a code........

Yes, but that would tell you it's a problem with the antenna and you could research a fix, such as an antenna isolator. See below:

...The Audio Isolator will break the loop of the ungrounded current and quiet the hum. If you are living in an older home that does not have a properly grounded electrical system, the Audio Isolator may be your only solution.

Some people experience hum that is the result of antenna interference. In these cases there are two options. You can simply remove the antenna, or you may purchase and install an Antenna Isolator.

I'll check on those Isolators. Thanks.

I am a little confused now if I have the hm94 or hm95, but it is most likely irrelevant for what I want to say. I was having a bunch of problems with the set I had delivered yesterday. I had a hum that made watching anything annoying. I am guessing this is due to my old wiring. In addition I wasn't happy with anything, even watching HD channels on my tv. I didn't like the color, I certainly wasn't happy with the quality of the image. I was considering returning the tv. As a last resort I was going to have a repairman come out and adjust/tune it for me, I even dropped by a local shop and made an appointment.

Just to try something, I dropped by radio shack to pick up an hdmi cable to use in place of the component video for my comcast stb. I lucked out because they were getting rid of their own brand of cables, and so I paid $12 for it. To make a long story short, this cable made a huge difference. The image on HD channels is breathtaking. It fixes the hum too. What a relief.

I moved the component connection to my dvd player. I was using the rgb cable because that is all I had. Well, it was a lot better with the rgb cable. The dvd picture has a bunch of crazy rainbows. I am not worried about that though, I figure it is either the dvd player, the cable, or the dvd itself.

Anyway, I just wanted to relate my experience in case anyone else runs into the same issues.

Where the heck can I buy one of these wonderful Toshibas? I can't find them anywhere - not Tweeter, CC, BB, Sears. They only have the old stuff and/or small screen sizes (<60"). Grrrrr. I'm looking for a 62 or 72" 1080p set. I have cash in hand, am ready to make a purchase and nobody sells them! I may have to go w/ the Mits 62628 since nobody carries Toshiba. I started to look at Samsung but after reading their 1080p thread, I think you'd have to be nuts to buy a Samsung considering all the issues discussed in that thread.

BTW, I live in Knoxville, TN if anybody knows of any other B&M stores to shop at.

Check out www.hideflifestyle.com if you want to try an internet connection.

I got a great price with delivery. Nice people to work with. :)

Hey WMarkW....I printed out the manual for the remote from comcast and it listed a few Toshiba codes that worked to power up and down the TV. That and the volume adjustment is all she needs since she uses the DVR for everything else.

Here is the link...

http://www.comcast.com/remotes/

Anybody heard of this Toshiba payment plan an online retailer was offering me a minute ago:

He claimed Toshiba was offering a $99/month plan for the life of the loan. For instance, you buy a set that cost $9900 you pay 100 equal payment @ $99 per month. I thought he even said at no interest. This came from a retailer who carries a superb rating here and on resellerratings.com. He did mention it only applied to various models, the 52HMX95 being one of those mentioned. I can't find anything on the web to back up his claim.

Hey RadRob,

I bought the same HMDI cable as well as a DVI cable and a few others DIRT CHEAP! from RadioShack. At first I doubted the quality but what the heck...If I can buy a 6ft HDMI cable for $12 bucks who can argue with that!

My picture looks the nuts with that cable and a DVI adapter on my Comcast box. The only thing I have to figure out now is why my cable box when powered down still has audio from the Toslink to the receiver. You would think that shutting off the cable box would shutoff the sound too. I dunno I will see if a Digital COAX cable for the audio will make a difference.

Mitch

Can you keep me/us up to date on how your firmware upgrade goes and whether or not it fixes all the issues you have? Well, maybe not all of your issues, but at least the 4 digit channel and the TV Guide issues.

I received the firmware upgrade on a SD memory chip with detailed instructions. Installation was very easy and automatic. Basically you insert the SD into the slot, it performs a read of the resident firmware, then installs the new one and verifies the installation. You then reset the TV (unplug then plug again). It fixed the 4-digit channel dial-in problem. I am keeping my fingers crossed for the TV Guide. I was told it may take a couple of days to fully load. I'll keep you guys posted.

Cheers,

Anybody heard of this Toshiba payment plan an online retailer was offering me a minute ago:

He claimed Toshiba was offering a $99/month plan for the life of the loan. For instance, you buy a set that cost $9900 you pay 100 equal payment @ $99 per month. I thought he even said at no interest. This came from a retailer who carries a superb rating here and on resellerratings.com. He did mention it only applied to various models, the 52HMX95 being one of those mentioned. I can't find anything on the web to back up his claim.

Never heard of it. But what do you have to lose? You are not putting any money out and you'll have the TV. Just make sure you read the fine print !

Anyone looking for these sets. HHgregg has a one day sale tom. oct 19. is this a good price?

52HM95 for $1697 including stand.

please give some feedback. i need some assurance. thanks.

Anyone looking for these sets. HHgregg has a one day sale tom. oct 19. is this a good price?

52HM95 for $1697 including stand.

please give some feedback. i need some assurance. thanks.

After reading every post on this forum I'd say that the 52HM95 is a quality set. Not to mention the price is extremely right. The best price I've seen on the internet cost you ~$2000 delivered without the stand.

I received the firmware upgrade on a SD memory chip with detailed instructions. Installation was very easy and automatic. Basically you insert the SD into the slot, it performs a read of the resident firmware, then installs the new one and verifies the installation. You then reset the TV (unplug then plug again). It fixed the 4-digit channel dial-in problem. I am keeping my fingers crossed for the TV Guide. I was told it may take a couple of days to fully load. I'll keep you guys posted.

Cheers,

Other than waiting for the TV Guide to update all sounds good. Did Toshiba give you instructions to return the SD card? Have you checked to see if the firmware is still on the card? I'm pretty sure Mitsubishi forces you to sign and return an agreement prior to sending out their firmware update. You have to return the SD card and lastly, the firmware deletes itself after installation.
PS.. keep us informed on the TV Guide thingy.

PAYMENT PLAN DETAILS/UPDATE

Anybody heard of this Toshiba payment plan an online retailer was offering me a minute ago:

He claimed Toshiba was offering a $99/month plan for the life of the loan. For instance, you buy a set that cost $9900 you pay 100 equal payment @ $99 per month. I thought he even said at no interest. This came from a retailer who carries a superb rating here and on resellerratings.com. He did mention it only applied to various models, the 52HMX95 being one of those mentioned. I can't find anything on the web to back up his claim.

No Interest and Only $99 per Month on Select Toshiba Consumer Electronics Products
Eligible Models: HDTV DLP (720p)
46HM95, 52HMX95, 52HM95, 62HMX95, 62HM95

HDTV DLP (1080p)
56HM195, 56MX195, 62HM195, 62MX195, 72HM195, 72MX195

16:9 HDTV LCD
27HL95, 27HLV95, 32HL95, 32HLX95, 37HL95, 37HLX95

16:9 HD Plasma TV
42HP95, 42HPX95, 50HP95, 50HPX95

Applies to purchases of authorized Toshiba products of $1000.00 - $5000.00 made between October 2, 2005 and January 31, 2006 on a GECAF consumer credit card account No finance charges will be assessed on the promotional purchase. Fixed minimum monthly payments of $99 per month are required during the promo period In addition to any other required minimum payment. If minimum monthly payments on your account (including optional credit insurance/debt cancellation charges) are not paid when due, all special promotional terms may be terminated. Optional credit insurance/debt cancellation charges on your promo purchase are not subject to the promotional terms. Standard account terms apply to non-promotional purchases Variable ARP is 22.96% of May 10, 2005. Fixed APR of 26.99% applies if the minimum payment is not made by the payment due date two times in any six consecutive billing periods. Minimum finance charge is $1. Existing cardholders should see their credit card agreement for standard terms. Offer is subject to credit approval by GE Money Bank.


Not exactly an offer by Toshiba but non the less a wonderful offer. Now if I can get them to pricematch my best offer. BTW, they didn't have far to go to do that to begin with.

They also have several other nice finance options available as well but this is the one he spoke of. I originally got excited and posted the wrong finance option. Sorry.

Anyone looking for these sets. HHgregg has a one day sale tom. oct 19. is this a good price?

52HM95 for $1697 including stand.

please give some feedback. i need some assurance. thanks.

Incredible deal! Go for it! Cheapest I could find is $1735 with no stand. Any idea what they are giving the 72hm195 away for? :)

just went to hhgregg. salesperson had no clue. it was the 52hmx94 for $1697. whats the diff between hm and hmx models? set looked okay in the store but didnt blow me away. what am i missing out on compared to a newer model or say a mitsu or hitachi in the same size dlp?