The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread [Text View] - Page 29

Snoopydoo1

02-13-07, 09:56 AM

Hi,

I'm sad and ticked off once again.

I have a 52HMX85 which I bought new just 13 months ago. I had to replace the first lamp after just 3 months, at the beginning of April '06. Had to replace that 2nd lamp 3 months later at the beginning of July '06.

Now, my 3rd lamp needs to be replaced as the picture is getting darker by the day. This 3rd lamp lasted just over 7 months and this was supposed to be the new and improved lamp model: wow, what an improvement. At this rate, I figure I'm going to have to invest about $500 on a yearly basis just for these lamps.

I sent an email to Toshiba to tell them this is really UNACCEPTABLE and that I'm ticked off that they obviously haven't fixed this problem. Besides that, I love the TV but would get rid of it in an instant if I could and will never buy a Toshiba again, if I don't get free-lamp sent to me once again, or if they don't refund me my set as I've asked them to do one or the other.

I'm waiting to see their response. I really feel unlucky about this set.

Does anybody out there feel I'm wrong, or is it only me? I feel depressed over this expensive set...

Any comment would be welcomed...

Thanks

Micker

02-13-07, 10:54 AM

I LOVE my toshiba 62hm196!! What a great tv, hd is amazing.

Anyway you should set your own tv using a calibtation disc, your enviorment is different then others.

My settings are:
Dynamic Contrast = ON, I find it provides a much better 3d look to programs, without it it looks flat. Black detail suffers a small amount, but its a good trade.
Contrast=75
Color=60
Tint=14
Sharpness=5
Brightness=59
Lamp=Low
Mpeg=Low

Also, when I turn down the sharpness, i find that high def looses it's 3d look.

You are used to the fake info that sharpness provides. All it does it provide edge noise to make objects seem sharper. It adds noise that isn't there in the original signal and shouldn't be seen. Try setting sharpness low and see if you get used to it, it provides a much better film like look to programs.

Grogmeister

02-13-07, 03:41 PM

bkazepis

02-13-07, 05:35 PM

yellowb

02-14-07, 04:08 PM

I have the 52hmx85, and it's the last TV I'm purchasing from Toshiba.
I purchased this TV for my parent's and it's only given them grief.

first the bulb went out (easily fixed).
2nd, the dvd player HDMI player had way too many handshaking problems (went through 4 toshiba upconverting dvd players - purchased the monoprice cable still have the problem - toshiba told me to turn the tv on first and then the dvd player).

3rd and finally, the TV had a cell shading effect 2 weeks out of the one year warranty (in Dec. - before xmas).... first they said, "Too bad. your out of warranty, and then after they agreed to repair it".

It's Feb. 14th... the 52 inch has missed Xmas, New Years, and the Superbowl... the part - DLP Engine (#23405474) is still on back order with no ETA....
apparently they have a lot of back orders for this part as well.

I'm just so surprised on how long this is going to take.
Plus the technician thinks this might fix the problem (after that - I don't know what I'm going to do).

This was my first and last Toshiba TV.

GT1Boy

02-14-07, 04:44 PM

yellowb, if you haven't done so already, give the Toshiba Customer Solutions Manager a call. You can find his name and number on the Better Business Bureau website here (http://data.middletennessee.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bid=33004070). He was very helpful for me when Toshiba Customer Support was telling me that the LE for my 56MX195 was on backorder for at least a month.

I've had similar issues with my Toshiba DLP TV that I've chronicled in the Official 56MX195/62MX195/72MX195 Owner's thread in this forum. Basically I've had the TV for almost a year and it's been broken 20% of the time and I wasn't able watch the AFC/NFC championship games or the superbowl on it because I was waiting for a backordered LE. Anyway, give him a call.

waited18years

02-15-07, 12:21 PM

I have a 50hm66 with a cable card and i have a couple of issues
1. On my HD channels 107 and 111 there is no sound. All my other HD channels are fine.
2. I have a dark horizontal line that is 1 inch on the left and it goes to 3 inches on the right side.
The dark line started shortly after a new bulb was installed. Original bulb lasted 7 months and I hope the new one lasts longer than that.
Thanks in advanceFor item #2 I would recommend that you remove the new bulb and check make sure that there is no crap on the glass that the light shines through. Be careful to check the bulb replacement instructions in the manual (unplug the set and wait a while for everything to cool off).

cactuar

02-15-07, 05:36 PM

I don't remember if anyone remembers me, but I'll post my original message about my problematic Toshiba DLP 62HMX84. 2 years later, I'm still having the same issue. I swear I'm getting fed up with this. They were on the verge of declaring my TV defective, non-repairable, but now Toshiba Tech Assist, wants to chagnge my Scaler Power Board.

This time I have video footage of the stupid thing at work.

Here's my old post from 3/2006:

I was wondering if someone can offer me any advice.

I own a Toshiba 62HMX84. It's actually been more of a nightmare than a blessing to own. When it was first delivered back in may 2005 it refused to even turn on. When it finally did, the picture would be all green and magenta in color, instead of the correct colors the picture should have. The tv will then turn itself on and off a total of 8 times (like the manual says) then both lights will flash at the same time and I push on and off again and the same thing happens again and again and again. Sometimes we hear loud popping noises and hissing whirley noises as well. I've had the lamp replaced once already back in may when it was delivered. That didn't even fix the problem. I've had the repair place come out several times since. The first guy who came out and replaced the lamp was told by Toshiba directly that replacing the lamp would have only a 20% chance at fixing the issue, and the other 80% culprit would be the actual board inside itself which can not be repaired, the tv would just have to be replaced.

Fast forward to almost 1 year to the date. I have been in contact with both toshiba and the repair guys and Toshiba actually told me flat out "there is nothing wrong with your TV, it is functioning normally". They are aparantly trying to blow me off in hopes I just drop the issue about my tv being defective. They told me yet again I need to have my tv looked at and that the repair service was to "correct the color problem". I'm really tired of this BS that they're trying to give me. Does anyone have any advice?

Fast forward 2 years later now...

We've discovered what the real issue is here. Too much cyan. The tech thought it was the color wheel, but they've replaced the entire light engine. Fixed the problem for oh I dunno maybe 6 months at the most. I will post a link to the video later when I get home and can upload it. This TV really knows of it's awareness. When it acts up and I call for the repair guy, it works again. *sigh* My Toshiba warranty is up so now I'm going through GE, GE is refusing to give me my money back unless the techs will say it's non-repairable, and the techs refuse to say it's non-repairable as they'd be out of a job, but they don't want to play guessing games here wasting their time.

Is there anything I can do about this? Should I just go on with the scaler power board replacement and hope for the best? I'm just really fed up here as I've had this POS for 2 years now and it'll maybe work half of the time. Do I have any say in my warranty, can I just demand GE to stop trying to fix it and to just give me my money back?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and again I'll post a video tonight.

jemaerca

02-17-07, 09:45 PM

Long time HMX TV owner. Recently, I upgraded my MX-700 universal remote with an MX-850 mainly for the RF capability. To be able to use RF for my components, I need to attach an RF emitter to each component I want to control using RF.

I have since learned that the IR sensor of the HMX TV is INSIDE the TV. Being the adventurous type, I tried to open the TV but couldn't get the front completely off for some reason.

Here are my questions I'm hoping someone could help me with:
- have you tried controlling the HMX using RF with success? If you have, how did you do it?
- does anyone know where I can get directions on how to completely remove the front of the TV so that I can access the IR sensor inside?

Thanks!

Ron Jones

02-18-07, 07:12 AM

It CAN and DOES display all content as 1080p,as that is the native resolution of Toshiba 1080p displays,hence the reasson they are called 1080p.1080i feed is deinterlaced to 1080p and 480i,480p,720p are uprezzed to to 1080p.They do this quite well.Sd feeds look terrible as a rule,but all others are exceptional,given quality input....Get it? :)
However, a test of a 62MX196 in the Feb. 2007 issue of Home Theater Magazine found that the Toshiba does not support 2:3 inverse pull down for 1080i inputs (only 480i inputs). This means that the Toshiba 1080p projectors (I assume all current Toshiba 1080p DLP models use the same video processing) cannot perfectly de-interlace 1080i film based sources (i.e., unambigiously weave the odd and even lines from the 2 video fields originating from the same orginial film frame), such as movies from a Blu-ray disc, to create a 1080p image that would as good as if the projector were to accept a 1080p input directly from a 1080p capable source (i.e, Blu-ray). The review while giving the Tosh. a good ratiing noted the this was an issue with this TV since it neither accepted 1080p inputs nor correctly processed 1080i inputs.

The next generation of Tosh. 1080p rear projectors due out this spring will support 1080p inputs, based on info from CES 2007. They may be doing this since the new higher end Tosh. HD-DVD players will support a 1080p output (to better compete with the current Blu-ray players).

Ron Jones

enmoco

02-18-07, 10:27 AM

Post I was answering Actually for HDMI it also says "2 HDMI digital audio/video inputs (accepts signals up to 1080i)" I'm looking at the HM196.

That's from Crutchfield's site though. I thought it was Toshiba's. Still, it's for the 1080p TVs.So what CAN it display at 1080p if not HD/Blu Ray, PS3, etc.? My reply to the specific question he asked.It CAN and DOES display all content as 1080p,as that is the native resolution of Toshiba 1080p displays,hence the reasson they are called 1080p.1080i feed is deinterlaced to 1080p and 480i,480p,720p are uprezzed to to 1080p.They do this quite well.Sd feeds look terrible as a rule,but all others are exceptional,given quality input....Get it?AS I did not search any previous posts of his,I can only comment on the question. "What CAN it DISPLAY at 1080p"It Displays all input to 1080p.I stand by that. I don't question anything you have to add to a discussion of the merits of this display,just your citing my post as anything other than a correct answer to a very specifically put question of what it could display at 1080p. A question of could it accept any 1080p input,quality of components,weather in Detroit, would receive a different answer......... :)

beckto

02-18-07, 10:53 PM

I see this problem has been seen before, but I can't find a solution in the 235 pages.
I have had this DLP (toshiba 46hm84)for 16 months without a problem, until the lamp went out (it popped really loud, after inspection the element inside shattered). I just figured I didnt get much life out of the lamp, and it was time to replace. I got a new lamp from toshiba and fired it up. Worked first try, then the next time I went to turn it on it didnt light up. It buzzed loud and I got sound, but no light. It reset itself 7 or 8 times before giving up. I called the dealer from which I purchased and he came out to look at it. (under warrenty) It did the same buzzing with no light. But after the 5th or so reset, it came on. But after shutting it down it then would not fire again. He came to the conclusion the "new" lamp was defective. He said the buzzing was the ballast, and it was working fine. So I returned the lamp to Toshiba, and got another one. The first try was a bust, nothing. After about 2 dozen resets it DID fire. So it will come on from time to time, at random. But this is unacceptable. I have the tech coming later this week (who from my first expierence, wasnt that knowledgeable) to look again, but if anyone has ANY ideas about the problem I am having I am all ears. Thanks

piturra

02-19-07, 01:06 AM

However, a test of a 62MX196 in the Feb. 2007 issue of Home Theater Magazine found that the Toshiba does not support 2:3 inverse pull down for 1080i inputs (only 480i inputs). This means that the Toshiba 1080p projectors (I assume all current Toshiba 1080p DLP models use the same video processing) cannot perfectly de-interlace 1080i film based sources (i.e., unambigiously weave the odd and even lines from the 2 video fields originating from the same orginial film frame), such as movies from a Blu-ray disc, to create a 1080p image that would as good as if the projector were to accept a 1080p input directly from a 1080p capable source (i.e, Blu-ray). The review while giving the Tosh. a good ratiing noted the this was an issue with this TV since it neither accepted 1080p inputs nor correctly processed 1080i inputs.

The next generation of Tosh. 1080p rear projectors due out this spring will support 1080p inputs, based on info from CES 2007. They may be doing this since the new higher end Tosh. HD-DVD players will support a 1080p output (to better compete with the current Blu-ray players).

Ron Jones

Could be the sample that HT Mag had, since ... The following from "The Perfect Vision" Winter 2007 Magazine - Review Toshiba 72HM196 by Scott Wilkinson (some notable quotes) ...

page 84
Looking at a pixel-phase test pattern (which indicates the relationship between the imager's actual pixel structure and the pixels in the processed image), Dave and I determined that the NATURAL aspect-ratio setting looks like a 1:1 mode -- that is, we were able to easily discern each pixel in the imager.

Conclusion
The importance of a 1:1 mode cannot be overstated when it comes to 1920x1080 content -- without it, whatever scaling the processor does definitely degrades the image. This is one reason the 72HM196 looked so good displaying HD DVDs (as long as its NATURAL aspect ratio was selected). Another factor is its apparent use of inverse telecine to deinterlace 1080i content, resulting in smooth, artifact-free motion.

page 83
The Last Word
- 1:1 mode makes 1920x1080 content look exceptionally detailed and sharp
- Excellent deinterlacing
- 12-bit processing results in smooth brightness gradients

This also supports what was written in Sound & Vision Magazine about the Toshiba 62HM196 (http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hdtvs/1881/toshiba-62hm196-62-inch-1080p-dlp-hdtv.html) ...

With the combination of a 1080p HDTV and an HD DVD source, I expected to see excellent overall detail, and I wasn't disappointed. ... Test patterns confirmed that the 62HM196 could resolve every detail of a 1080i signal, a feat few other 1080p DLP HDTVs can match.

Plus
• Reproduces deep, clean blacks and shadows
• Uniform picture across the screen
• Resolves every detail of 1080i/p sources

Phil

Julio Bro!

02-19-07, 12:59 PM

Julio Bro!

02-19-07, 01:14 PM

OK, I think I have an interesting one.

My Tosh is a 52HM84 with 2 video sources: Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD cable box and Panasonic S77 DVD player. Both unit connected with HDMI thru an Octava 3-1 auto switch.

The box can go from 480i to 1080i. At 480 and the TV at NATURAL, a 4:3 image appears with bars at the side; the same happens for a 4:3 program at 1080i. The image then can be stretched with TheaterWide 1.

With the DVD player it's different. Watching a Star Trek Voyager 4:3 episode at 1080i the TV automatically goes to NATURAL, but in a stretched fashion, like watching at FULL. This is with the player at 4:3 standard and TV with Auto Aspect OFF. I tested for 16:9 and 4:3 displays at the player with the same results.

I've yet to test a couple of other settings and other material, but what could be happening here?

MeatballB

02-19-07, 01:55 PM

Hey guys,

I apologize up front if I ask something that may have already been asked. I've read the most recent 20 pages or so of posts, but not all 230+.

So, I've been looking at getting the 62HM196 and overall, while I see some posts of folks having issues, I've read good things about it. I actually did get to see it in store and while it wasn't the sharpest picture, for the price it looked great. I'm sure the Best Buy folks hadn't calibrated it either, so that's probably why it didn't stand out. I have ordered the Avia guide and plan on spending some time with it once I get the set in house.

I do have a few questions if you all don't mind.

1) I keep reading about the 62HM116 and the 196 being the same unit, is this definitely true? If it is, I may go with the 116, but I'll have to check on prices.

2) I've read a bunch of stuff (mostly people having issues) about firmware/software updates. First off, is this something I'd have to do frequently? I don't see any info about it on Tosh's site. Will the updates actually add functionality to the set with new releases or is it generally just bug fixes and tweaks? Is there an easy way for me to check what the current versions are on my set and see what the latest and greatest offered by Tosh is?

3) I'm going to be using this set with a Series 3 HD Tivo, if anyone has had any experience with that, any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

4) Bulb life seems to be a mixed bag. Is there any worry that bulbs will not be available a few years down the road? Is it something I should buy a spare now?

5) Any other comments/suggestions?

Thanks!!

MB

apaulct

02-19-07, 03:37 PM

1) I keep reading about the 62HM116 and the 196 being the same unit, is this definitely true? If it is, I may go with the 116, but I'll have to check on prices.
MB

Yes, the 196 and 116 are the same unit. The 116 includes a stand, the 196 does not. When I bring up the info screen on my 116, it states it is a 62HM196.

Can't answer your other questions, I got the set in September and have not done a firmware upgrade. Like you, I have not found any updates posted on the Tosh website. I use a cableco supplied Moto 6416 via hdmi not a TIVO. No issues with the 6416, but no experience with TIVO.

enmoco

02-19-07, 04:48 PM

2) I've read a bunch of stuff (mostly people having issues) about firmware/software updates. First off, is this something I'd have to do frequently? I don't see any info about it on Tosh's site. Will the updates actually add functionality to the set with new releases or is it generally just bug fixes and tweaks? Is there an easy way for me to check what the current versions are on my set and see what the latest and greatest offered by Tosh is?The firmware updates are supplied by Toshiba on a need to have basis. The primary fix in all upgrades has been to alleviate handshake problems with various cable cards. There are many different cable companies and various issues of cards offered. Mostly guide related issues have been addressed by these upgrades. I had two previous upgrades on one of my displays to get the issues handled.There are copies on this forum that can be downloaded,but,several posters have had serious issues later.Whether they didn't configure files correctly to an sd card or not,we just don't know. You can call Tosh CS and request the latest upgrade,some techs will just mail you the SD card,others will refer you to the tech handling your "problem". Best advise is ....if it ain't broke don't fix it.........Good luck to all......... :)BTW: My upgrades were for the 195 series.I haven't even heard of any upgrades for new displays.

enmoco

02-19-07, 04:52 PM

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/customersupport/updates_notices.asp This is the "official" upgrade page at Toshiba.

enmoco

02-19-07, 04:56 PM

Information for Owners of Toshiba 50HM66 and 56HM66 DLP® Televisions

To ensure the satisfaction of our customers and to maintain the integrity and quality of our products, Toshiba America Consumer Products, L.L.C. is issuing a product update regarding the 50HM66 and 56HM66 DLP televisions.

Toshiba is committed to customer service and to continuously improving the quality of its products. Accordingly, we are advising you that in a limited number of 50HM66 and 56HM66 DLP TVs, a diagonal shadow may develop at the top of the screen after a number of hours of use (see example below). This results from a flawed light engine provided to Toshiba by a third party component supplier. If you own either a 50HM66 or a 56HM66, please enter your serial number in the box below to determine if your particular DLP television qualifies for a light engine replacement. The serial number can be located on the back panel of the television. Be assured that Toshiba DLP televisions are of the highest quality and this update regards a limited issue. This is not a safety issue.

Model(s): Affects only 50HM66 and 56HM66 Models
Type in serial number:
Confirm serial number:

Results:
Although you have an affected serial number, it is possible that you will not develop this sliver of a shadow on your screen. If you do, please contact Toshiba Customer Solutions at 1-800-631-3811 and we will replace your light engine even if outside of the warranty period.

Results:
Your DLP television does not qualify for a light engine replacement. The replacement is only necessary for DLP television models 50HM66 and 56HM66 with certain serial numbers. If you have any additional questions, please contact Toshiba Customer Solutions at 1-800-631-3811.

doc-holliday

02-19-07, 05:50 PM

im hope someone can help me.... i have a 56hm66 hooked to insighjt hd cable service through a motarola box. i recently ran a hdmi cable from one to the other. ever since then i have captions on my screen. only through hdmi imput. the captions are turned of in the settings........can anyone help!!!!???? :eek:

Steeltalon

02-20-07, 12:13 PM

I apologize if this is a repeat question (tough to sift through 200+ pages :) ), but I just got my new 62HM196 hooked up (was tough having it sit in its box for 2 weeks while I waited to move) and I'm now doing tuning with the DVE DVD, but I'm having trouble with green. Blue and Red seem ok when I look through the filter but the greens seem too light as I look across to the left. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions?

magredc5

02-20-07, 12:53 PM

With the DVD player it's different. Watching a Star Trek Voyager 4:3 episode at 1080i the TV automatically goes to NATURAL, but in a stretched fashion, like watching at FULL. This is with the player at 4:3 standard and TV with Auto Aspect OFF. I tested for 16:9 and 4:3 displays at the player with the same results.

I've yet to test a couple of other settings and other material, but what could be happening here?

I have a Toshiba D-R5 DVD Recorder and it does the same thing:

- HDMI Output at 480p = Resulting Display is 4:3 Natural.
- HDMI Output at 720p = Resulting Display is 16:9 Natural.*
- HDMI Output at 1080i = Resulting Display is 16:9 Natural.*

* The DVD player is automatically stretching the 4:3 content to 16:9 before outputting and the result is stretched like a uniform FULL which is not my preference. I would rather it leave the output at 4:3 and let me use Theaterwide 1 on the TV, but I haven't done much testing. I could output at 480p but there is a noticeable improvement in PQ using 1080i vs. 480p.

parkwood

02-20-07, 01:08 PM

Picture Sizing

I have a 50HM66 using a Motorola cable box via HDMI input. Cable box is set to output 1080i for HD and 480p for standard def. By default, the TV displays the standard def with black bars on the side. I'd like to use the TheatreWide 1 setting to stretch the picture to full screen for standard def. (I know that I can stretch the picture via the cable box, but it seems unnatural and too stretched.)

When I switch from a standard def program to a high def program, the picture switches to widescreen "Natural" setting (as it should.) But when I go back to standard def, it remains on the "Natural" setting (with the black bars.) I've tried turning the "auto-aspect" setting off, but if I view high-def with the TheatreWide 1 setting, it zooms the picture and is unviewable.

So, my question is how do I save the TheatreWide 1 setting for standard def and Normal setting for high def without having to change the setting each time? Thanks.

Julio Bro!

02-20-07, 05:32 PM

...my question is how do I save the TheatreWide 1 setting for standard def and Normal setting for high def without having to change the setting each time? Thanks.

When viewing a standard def channel, set the TV for Theaterwide 1, and forget it. When you tune a high-def channel, the TV will automatically fix to FULL at 720 and go to NATURAL for 1080.

The only thing to try differently is when you have 4:3 material at 1080, because the TV switches to NATURAL you'll see side bars. Test Theaterwide 1 for this situation and see if you like it; I do.

Julio Bro!

02-20-07, 05:38 PM

* The DVD player is automatically stretching the 4:3 content to 16:9 before outputting and the result is stretched like a uniform FULL which is not my preference.

In my case, the player stretches the 4:3 image when set to 1080i. I know this because, even though the Toshiba is in NATURAL, the image ocupies the whole screen in a stretched fashion.

tjknight

02-20-07, 09:11 PM

I leave my set at Natural for SD material. Any of the Theatre settings only make an already bad feed even worse. Now mind you I went from a 53 CRT RPTV to the 72HM196, so the picture with bars still nets me a bigger 4x3 image than what I had with the old 53 inch :D

Julio Bro!

02-20-07, 10:41 PM

OK, with the help of another thread, I found a setting to get a 4:3 image at 1080i with sidebars from the DVD player; now I can use Theaterwide 1. But it results in a larger image with wavy distortions when panning. Now, if someone knows, why does this happens?

The normal image at 480P, doesn't get the wavy distortions in Theaterwide 1. Anything different when processing at 1080i?

parkwood

02-21-07, 09:19 AM

When viewing a standard def channel, set the TV for Theaterwide 1, and forget it. When you tune a high-def channel, the TV will automatically fix to FULL at 720 and go to NATURAL for 1080.

Thanks. This works fine when going from SD to HD, but when going back to SD from HD, it stays in the Natural mode and the black bars return. How can I ensure that the SD will stay in TheatreWide 1 mode?

Cygnus311

02-21-07, 11:40 AM

Do the Toshibas accept 1080p through component or only HDMI? Thanks.

magredc5

02-21-07, 12:16 PM

Do the Toshibas accept 1080p through component or only HDMI? Thanks.

The Toshiba DLPs do not accept 1080p inputs, only 1080i. This is for the 95/195 models as well as 96/196 models.

gshelley61

02-21-07, 03:00 PM

Thanks. This works fine when going from SD to HD, but when going back to SD from HD, it stays in the Natural mode and the black bars return. How can I ensure that the SD will stay in TheatreWide 1 mode?

Try shutting off the AUTO aspect ratio setting in the Theater setup area.

Why do you want to watch 4:3 stuff stretched? It looks terrible that way, IMHO. Plus, you have a DLP... no burn-in to worry about - ever.

magredc5

02-22-07, 01:37 PM

Try shutting off the AUTO aspect ratio setting in the Theater setup area.

Why do you want to watch 4:3 stuff stretched? It looks terrible that way, IMHO. Plus, you have a DLP... no burn-in to worry about - ever.

That's your opinion, but SD in Theaterwide1 looks great to me. No change in picture quality and minimal picture distortion compared to Full. I keep SD on Theaterwide1 all the time.

piturra

02-22-07, 03:15 PM

That's your opinion, but SD in Theaterwide1 looks great to me.

I used Toshiba's TheaterWide #1 when I owned the 50" CRT based Toshiba 50H81 RPTV, and I was very happy with the slightly stretched mode. CRT based RPTV's are susceptible to burn-in and so I got use to TW#1 stretch mode.

When I received my 56HM195, I early on switched from NATURAL to TheaterWide #1 to view the 4x3 broadcasts for a while, but I didn't like the oblong shaped news logo's and wider looking newscasters, so, remembering that the burn-in problem is not an issue with DLP HDTVs, ... I put it back to NATURAL to view 4x3 broadcasts programs (OAR - Original Aspect Ratio). Eventually I finally set the 56HM195 ( & present 62HM196) Aspect Ratio = AUTO for everything, ... especially for SD & HD DVDs w/4x3 OAR!!! (SD DVDs - JAG, Remington Steel, She Spies, etc. / HD DVDs - Casablanca, The ADV of Robin Hood, Forbidden Planet, etc.)

No change in picture quality and minimal picture distortion compared to Full. I keep SD on Theaterwide1 all the time.

IMHO, one thing that's obvious with DLPs vs. CRT based RPTVs is how much sharper and detailed the DLP reproduced 4x3 images is using NATURAL PIC setting, since it's the 1:1 pixel mode, ... w/NO superficial stretching or electronic zooming of the picture involve.

The following is from "The Perfect Vision" Winter 2007 Magazine - Review Toshiba 72HM196 by Scott Wilkinson (some notable quotes) ...

page 84
Looking at a pixel-phase test pattern (which indicates the relationship between the imager's actual pixel structure and the pixels in the processed image), Dave and I determined that the NATURAL aspect-ratio setting looks like a 1:1 mode -- that is, we were able to easily discern each pixel in the imager.

Conclusion
The importance of a 1:1 mode cannot be overstated when it comes to 1920x1080 content -- without it, whatever scaling the processor does definitely degrades the image. This is one reason the 72HM196 looked so good displaying HD DVDs (as long as its NATURAL aspect ratio was selected).

Phil

AlanBuck

02-22-07, 03:51 PM

jtb50

02-22-07, 04:43 PM

I found the 50HM96 for 1100 online. How is this tv and what is the difference between the HM66 and the HM96. Thank you.

parkwood

02-23-07, 01:01 PM

That's your opinion, but SD in Theaterwide1 looks great to me. No change in picture quality and minimal picture distortion compared to Full. I keep SD on Theaterwide1 all the time.

I also think the SD with Theatrewide1 looks good. Have you found a way to save that setting for SD programming, automatically switch to Natural for HD, and then back to Theatrewide1 for SD? I've tried turning AutoAspect to "off", but switching from SD to HD produces a very "zoomed in" picture. Thanks.

Kirbs-Laval

02-23-07, 01:20 PM

Hello AVS Forum Users,

I am appealing to all for some help in regards to my Toshiba DLP 56HM66 unit.

I have acquired a HD STB terminal (PACE 551 HD) with a local Quebec provider.

The unit is hooked up HDMI (STB) to HDMI (DLP).

Everytime I change the channel (channel surfing), a loud and clear *beep* is heard.

Prior to the HD terminal, the DLP was set up with a SD digital terminal (cable hook up).

I've combed all forums and concluded that a few more Toshiba users have this problem. The sound emits from the TV.

The issue seems to be with the TV for other similar hook ups with other TV manf. do not produce that problem.

My feelings are leaning towards the HDMI source "changes" every time the channel does. Therefore, the TV wants to "communicate" that fact.

Has anyone seen or heard of this issue ?

Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Kirby

mlapgw

02-23-07, 02:16 PM

I found the 50HM96 for 1100 online. How is this tv and what is the difference between the HM66 and the HM96. Thank you.

I have the 56hmx96
As far as I can tell the HMX96 has the following differences from the HM66

• TV guide on screen
• Favorite Browser
• Colormaster
• Virtual Dolby (SRS TruSurround 5.1)
• 6 item illuminated remote
• THINC
• PC input
• Black cabinetry

Some of the other features it has different than the 56hm66 model are:

HD Window™ POP
In the "Advanced Picture Settings" menu it has two additional items:

Vertical Edge Enhancer - "strengthens video contour by correcting edges of horizontal bars"
Color Management (found this to be useful) -takes you to a new menu where you can adjust the hue, brightness, and saturation of six colors, red, green, blue, yellow, magenta, and cyan.

jtb50

02-23-07, 04:26 PM

How is the SSE on the Toshibas?

magredc5

02-24-07, 12:07 AM

I also think the SD with Theatrewide1 looks good. Have you found a way to save that setting for SD programming, automatically switch to Natural for HD, and then back to Theatrewide1 for SD? I've tried turning AutoAspect to "off", but switching from SD to HD produces a very "zoomed in" picture. Thanks.

Mine works as you describe where all my SD (480i) programs keep the TW1 setting and the HD (720p/1080i) come in as Natural. The difference is I have a CableCard and you have a STB and I would guess the difference is regardless of the resolution coming out of the STB the TV can only apply one setting to that input (i.e. Natural).

Maybe if you set the SD resolution of the STB to 480i instead of 480p it will work as desired.

n0friends

02-24-07, 01:14 AM

my 72hm196 gets delivered tomorrow....from what i just read this tv does support 1080p just not from any inputs? is that possible?

dhan

02-24-07, 08:53 AM

my 72hm196 gets delivered tomorrow....from what i just read this tv does support 1080p just not from any inputs? is that possible?

Yes inputs are 1080i max. Signal is then upconverted to 1080p

Micker

02-24-07, 04:29 PM

All current tvs, even ones that except 1080p input convert the signal to 1080i then back again to 1080p for most material. The exception is playstation 3 with 1080p 60hz games. If you don't play games, you will get the exact same picture playing a bluray movie with a set that excepts a 1080p input or one that excepts a 1080i input and ups it to 1080p. I have the 62" version of your tv and it is FANTASTIC!! No complaints, I wouldn't trade if for any tv currently on the market.

How is the SSE on the Toshibas?

Pretty low, you can see it on some real bright scenes, but its only briefly noticable. If SSE REALLY bothers you, then you need to get a plasma, which the glare is 10x worse then a little sse to me. I think the LCoS sets have worse SSE from what I have seen.

Jswerve

02-24-07, 08:53 PM

How good is the 62HM196 vs a Sammy HL-S?

Smoke_1

02-24-07, 09:37 PM

Don1959

02-24-07, 10:08 PM

The 195 series is last years model... the 196 series are this years.... the 196 have a little better PQ than the 195... PIP on my 56HM195 is not much use as I have a cable box.... to make good use of the PIP on these sets you really have to use the internal tuners.... bulb are easy to change.... and I do have a spare.

Don

shome

02-24-07, 10:45 PM

Hi all,
Noob question time. I'm getting ready to take the plunge and get a DLP set (finally). I've reading this thread and it seems people like their Toshibas. I've been looking at the 62hm195, 62hm196 and the 62mx195. I'm leaning towards the hm195 mostly for the dual tuner PIP. Any insight into why you picked one model over the other would be helpful. haven't seen PIP mentioned very often. Does it work OK? Are the lamps fairly simple to replace and do any of you keep a spare on hand? Thanks for any help in advance.

I would go straight to the 62HM196 out of the choices you listed, IMO. The 95 is last years series and I had a 56HM195 and had Nothing but problems with it. Toshiba upgraded me to the 62HM196 after all the continual hassles I had with it. Go with the MX version if you are able or want to, it has a few more features on it and it's all black.

Kirbs-Laval

02-24-07, 10:51 PM

Has anyone have HD cable / sat with a HDMI (stb) to HDMI (TV) hook up ? Nothing fancy. just cable box to tv.

Next, when on a channel with no sound, does anyone hear a continuous beep ?

has anyone tried to simply unplug the HDMI cable from the cable box ? do you hear the same continuous beep ?

This will help me in my research .

Thanks
Kirby

Smoke_1

02-25-07, 12:34 AM

Thanks don1959 and shome, sounds like the 196 for me. Do I need a cable box or can these hook straight up to cable?
Thanks again

magredc5

02-25-07, 01:08 PM

Hi all,
Noob question time. I'm getting ready to take the plunge and get a DLP set (finally). I've reading this thread and it seems people like their Toshibas. I've been looking at the 62hm195, 62hm196 and the 62mx195. I'm leaning towards the hm195 mostly for the dual tuner PIP. Any insight into why you picked one model over the other would be helpful. haven't seen PIP mentioned very often. Does it work OK? Are the lamps fairly simple to replace and do any of you keep a spare on hand? Thanks for any help in advance.

For PIP, the 195's do NOT support internal PIP, i.e. one of the inputs needs to be external. I'm pretty sure it's the same for the 196's. Dual Tuner refers to NTSC and ATSC, but you can't use both for PIP at the same time. Basically there are restrictions to which inputs you can use.

apaulct

02-25-07, 02:09 PM

magredc5

02-25-07, 11:46 PM

The HM196 does not support PIP - it supports POP - that is two pictures side by side, both about 32" diag. on a 62" set. One input must be from one of the two tuners, the other from an external source such as component or hdmi. It works great, I have an antenna connected to one tuner for ota, the cable connected to the other. Both tuners support QAM so they can receive unscrambled cable broadcasts directly off the cable. I also have a DVD player and cable DVR connected to the two hdmi inputs. I will very often watch a basketball game on one side while my wife watches a show on the other ... both in HD :)

POP/PIP = technically different means of the same difference. I don't know why you'd want to actually watch 2 shows in POP mode but to each it's own. I find it useful when I want to program my DVD-R in one side while keeping the program I'm watching on the other.

enmoco

02-26-07, 02:09 AM

POP/PIP = technically different means of the same difference. I don't know why you'd want to actually watch 2 shows in POP mode but to each it's own. I find it useful when I want to program my DVD-R in one side while keeping the program I'm watching on the other.I watch two games at the same time and switch sound as I like. Find it very useful. Have a splitter in cable from wall. One cable from splitter to cable in on STB,one cable to ANT. 1. Works like a champ.....Good luck to all. :)P.S. Actually the difference in PIP you have one input full size with the other feed going to a smaller picture in one corner. POP has two source pictures of the same size.

Shackler79

02-26-07, 02:02 PM

OK, I got my unit finally repaired. Toshiba took 2 days to send the authorization to the tech shop, but I had to wait till the end of the weekend and holiday here...3 more days. Toshiba agreed to pay for all the parts replaced, so I only had to pay for labor.

Well, they came morning and my wife was there to look at the whole thing. She said he removed the bottom rear cover, which didn't show much of the screen area. Then removed a bunch of screws which release the circuits and parts "trays". The light engine and ballast are on one of this trays. The ballast is a small circuit board with 2 metal heat shields. The tech carefully handled a bunch of thin cables and connectors, and unscrewed the board. Then screwed the new one and connected it, screwed everything back and that was it. The TV came back to live without a hitch; $150.

My wife says I could do it myself, but being extra careful because some parts looked flimsy...you know, easy to break. I already sent for the service manual, so in the future...hopefully in 2 or 3 years...I can get the thing done myself. Mainly because Toshiba isn't gonna cover anything anymore. Lamp was $187 and the ballast I saw at eBay for $80, so total $267. Yeah, I'll try to avoid wasting more money. But, if lamps and ballast go down by that time, or replaced by better technologies, I might get the tech to do it; it's a warrantied job for 30 days.

Shackler, read carefully what I described about my ballast problem, and if it's the exact same behavior and noise, then it should be the same problem. Try first if Toshiba would cover something for you, if they do, go with a tech.

If you'll try yourself, then look for the ballast on eBay and the internet, also for the service manual. A couple of guys at eBay have the manuals for $8 and $14 as downloads. My advice would be to leave the TV unplugged for a day before working on it, so any residual charges dissipate. The other thing is to be extra careful with cables, connections and any flimsy looking parts.

Anyway, I'm happy again.

So it's been over 2 months since I first posted about the issue I was having. After all the great negative feedback I had about trying to do this myself, I was pointed 15 ways to Sunday until I finally found a place that would do the fix.

They came 7 weeks ago to verify the problem, to then let me know the Lamp Ballast part was on back-order. They just fixed the TV today. $419 (with travel costs since they had to drive 30 miles one-way). I watched them do the work, which took barely 15 minutes of actual work. I would have been fine to do this myself, but you live and you learn I guess.

Hopefully this doesn't happen again though. At least now I have an extra lamp sitting around if needed. :rolleyes:

Smoke_1

02-26-07, 09:39 PM

Thanks all for the replies. I appreciate the info.
Enmoco, the 2 lines off 1 cable seems like a good way to go. I was looking specifically at the 62HM195 because the reviews on pricegrabber said that it was the 1 model with dual tuner pip and the rest had single tuner pip. I thought it meant the same as the other pip sets I've had. I'm having more trouble picking 1 set, too many choices.
Thanks again all for the info.

Traveler62

02-28-07, 10:31 AM

I have had my 62HM195 for a year now and have a couple of things happening that I am curious if others have seen the same issues. These may be normal things to happen, but I am just wondering if I need to order a Lamp and/or Ballast:

1. This is normal to happen occasionally, but about 1 out of 10 times when I turn on the TV, the Lamp fails to light or lights too late that the TV cycles power. It takes two cycles, then the Lamp comes on.

2. This one bothers me the most. 1 out of 20 times I will hear a sound on startup that sounds like small pieces of metal clanking for a couple of seconds. I realize that this is the arc with lamp making this noise, but the Lamp will come on and be about 2/3 brightness. It will look bluish and the picture slightly fuzzy. If I leave it on, it will eventually fix itself, but I always cycle the power and let it start again.

I have had my issues with the TV, but I am still happy to have the Toshiba and would buy another again. The picture is just amazing and looks as good as day one.

enmoco

02-28-07, 07:00 PM

Traveler62

02-28-07, 07:28 PM

Just wondering,why wouldn't you call for a service tech to come out when you first heard these noises, or, noticed the other problems that you mention?
I figured it doesn't happen often enough and most likely would never happen while they are here. Cycling power a few dozen times to recreate it for the technician doesn't seem like a good idea.

I was curious to how often or if ever either of these issues happen to anyone else.

bnold

02-28-07, 10:26 PM

Ok so I have a 52HM95 and am having difficulty with a blue color smearing to the right... I have called toshiba once before and they walked me through the process of doing a reset throught the service menu... Worked for a few months and now streaking again... I can get into the service menu but do not remember what to do to reset it??? Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated..... Really wished I would have shopped around more before settling on this POS.... :(

PLEASE HELP!!! Going Mad :eek:

Don1959

03-01-07, 12:27 AM

I
I was curious to how often or if ever either of these issues happen to anyone else.

Sounds like it could be a ballast problem... if your year is not up I would call Toshiba and at least log the problem with them... have a service guy come out... it can not hurt.. and at least you may have some recourse if something goes 6 months from now....

Don

enmoco

03-01-07, 12:49 AM

I figured it doesn't happen often enough and most likely would never happen while they are here. Cycling power a few dozen times to recreate it for the technician doesn't seem like a good idea.
I was curious to how often or if ever either of these issues happen to anyone else.Neither of your issues should ever happen.Neglect of the problem(s) doesn't seem like a good idea...... :confused:

nklinedinst

03-02-07, 01:31 AM

magredc5

03-02-07, 05:10 PM

I have searched for this before posting but have not found anything.

I have had the Toshiba 62HM196 for approximately 3 weeks. Everything has worked fine up until today. The front LED's (blue, yellow, or red) are not turning on when the tv is on or is shut off to show in standby mode.

The TV works fine, just wondering what is wrong with the LED's. I have tried unplugging the tv and plugging it back in because it says in the manual that when first plugged in, the yellow LED will blink until the tv is ready. I do not see anything blink. Any ideas?

Thanks

Not sure how the LEDs come on for the 196 models, but the fact that they're not illuminating at all is a clear indication of a H/W failure somewhere.

Your first step is to call Toshiba customer support and have a tech come out to look at it.

beckto

03-02-07, 05:39 PM

I have seen my problem on here before, about the lamp not firing right away and taking several resets to finally light up. And about the buzzing sound it makes when it doesnt fire. I have since sent it in to the shop via ext. warrenty. Now it got me thinking, this has never been a problem untill I blew my lamp. When I thought i just blew the lamp, I ordered a new one, and installed and then my problem surfaced. Now I had to buy the lamp, because it wasn't warrentied, but It is kind of a HUGE coincidence that this problem comes on after a lamp failure. Could my problem have caused the lamp to go bad? How do I prove it? If this were the case I should be reimbursed for the cost of the lamp.
FYI.. when the original lamp blew, it shattered the glass element inside, so I know it was bad. Now if I can prove it was because of my problem, say the ballast caused it to blow....thoughts? Thanks

magredc5

03-04-07, 11:55 AM

FYI.. when the original lamp blew, it shattered the glass element inside, so I know it was bad. Now if I can prove it was because of my problem, say the ballast caused it to blow....thoughts? Thanks

DLP lamps will shatter when they fail - that is not abnormal. These are not bulbs with filament - they are high intensity discharge arc lamps that run at high temp and pressure and it's not uncommon for them to fail as you describe. That's why they have a protective case around them.

So whether your ballast problems are the cause of lamp failure or just coincidence it's hard to say.

jayjonbeach

03-04-07, 11:58 AM

Hi There. Well I think I decided to GO BIG with the TV so thanks to all that answered in my other thread. I'm about 12 feet back and decided on the Toshiba 72hm196 over the 62" after going to the store again to watch some scenes from Star Wars on the set, looked awesome.

Anyway I think there may be a possible issue with the open box (demo unit) set I am looking at. There are actually two units on display, both exactly the same. On Wednesday I was at the store and the one on the left was brighter and sharper than the one on the right, both with the same signal which was an HD signal probably 1080i being interpolated to 1080P. Left one had a perfect picture even from up close where the right one was not as bright and was "fuzzy" as well, not really pixelated, more like fuzzy. I asked the sales rep about it and he said he thought a connector at the back might be the problem.

Well I went home, did some measurements and went back to the store 2 days later, well very strange, now the TV on the right has the better picture as it is much brighter than the one on the left and just as sharp. As I wasn't completely decided I didn't pay it too much attention and thought they either fixed it or maybe it was a different set.

Well tonight I go to buy one of them and it gets even stranger. Again the one on the right looks better as it is brighter so I ask the sales rep to hook up a regular DVD player just to see how it would perform, which it did not too bad, kinda pixelated but it was a crappy DVD player and crappy disc as well (I was also told that an upconverting DVD player will interpolate better than the TV, is this true?).

Well here is what happened next. I shut the TV off to inspect the screen, unhooked the DVD player, turned the TV back on and Voila, the crappy picture was back, not as bright as the left one and fuzzy as well with the same signal. This makes me wonder about the left one as well, while maybe more consistent and always sharp why is it not as bright as the right one when the right one was working good?

Damn it I want that TV! The open box is 500 less than their sale price which is only 200 less than the list.

Any thoughts as to what is going on? (I don't think any cables were touched as the DVD was hooked in through the side of the TV)

Side note: Sales rep also tried selling me on the warranty, I am not a fan of insurance or warranty (I find there are too many clauses in most that allow dealers to weasel out of covering you) although it does seem like several things could go wrong. One of the things is the bulb and that was NOT covered and the warranty was quite expensive (400 for 2 years) so I will most likely pass but any advice is appreciated. Maybe I should just buy with a Visa to have a 2 year warranty in total but I was kinda hoping for monthly payments no interest from the store.

Side Note 2: He also tried selling me a Monster power stablizer which sounds good in theory, one of them also had battery back-up which would allow for the bulb to cool down in outage situation which seemed good in theory too. Do these potentially improve picture and is it worth 300 - 400? I'm not sure if it is MOV based or SM based but after reading the other surge protection thread MOV based doesn't sound good anymore. One more important thing to note, I am in a large Condo and wonder how succeptable I would be to surges as opposed to a house and if I really need something like the 'brickwall' product (btw do they have this in Canada)?

Thanks a lot for any help. I am upgrading from a 27" tube and have been waiting a long time to take this plunge so any advice is appreciated! J

Don1959

03-04-07, 02:49 PM

I would be VERY hesitant to buy an open box DLP... those sets will have been on 12 hrs a day for who knows how long.... if nothing else the bulb has had half its life used up.... and as you have observed there seems to be problems with the sets that you are looking at....

I would try to get a better deal on a new unopened set (maybe a different store).... and I would get a extended warranty.... I paid 379.00 (can) tax in for a 5 year plan... no bulb but 4 full years AFTER the 1 year Toshiba warranty... these sets can be very expensive to repair.... a new light engine is (the most common fix) very expensive..... 3 years from now you may have problems even finding parts..... and on my warranty, if they can't fix it they replace it.

My current set (Toshiba 56HM195) is a warranty replacement for my Samsung HLN-5065. after 2 1/2 years the Samsung fried itself and nobody could fix it.... If I had not had an extended warranty I would have been out of luck and had a brick for a TV....

Just my thoughts....

Don

NR4P

03-04-07, 04:35 PM

jayjohnbeach, I'd be hesitant to buy a store demo. They are sometimes on not just 12 hours, but 24 hours/day. And who knows who pressed what buttons and all the movement and bumping of the sets.

For power supply issues, don't waste your money on a Monster rip-off. Go out and buy something like a 900va or higher battery backup which includes a built in surge protector. That's all you need. You can find name brands starting at US$99.

As far as warranties go, be sure they cover DLP bulbs. My 56hm195 bulb blew after 16 months, 3700 hours. Called Sears who had my five year warranty and new one was shipped out. And Toshiba sent me a bulb under their extended two year warranty. Now I always have a spare. This warranty was worth every penny.

enmoco

03-04-07, 04:51 PM

interpolated to 1080PDeinterlaced to 1080p

magredc5

03-04-07, 11:54 PM

geonex88

03-05-07, 09:31 AM

I bought my 72HM195 from Fry's as an Open Box / Demo.

it was only $2100, plus i bought the 5 year warranty that includes a Bulb Replacement for an additional $300. The bulb on the 72HM195 ranges between $400-550 so chances of the warranty more than paying for itsself within the 5 years of ownership is VERY high.

I would say that if the price of the TV + a Warranty that covers Bulb Replacement, is substantially less than the Sale+Coupon price of a set, get the openbox/demo unit.

As stated above, i too would be hesitatnt to buy an openbox TV if i could not have gotten that warranty from Fry's.

Goodluck!

geonex88

03-05-07, 09:33 AM

I've asked this question before,without reply:

How can I check the # Hours my Bulb has been used? I do not see an option for it within the TV Menu.

magredc5

03-05-07, 09:46 AM

geonex88

03-05-07, 09:56 AM

The Lamp on the HM/MX195's are ~$210, not $400-500.

OEM Lamp at Partstore.com (http://www.partstore.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductSKU=8346422&ProductType=PART&ModelID=610415)

You can even get them for less at other web retailers.

Thats a great link!! Thanks!

Kelsen

03-05-07, 01:29 PM

I have a DVI-to-HDMI cable going from my computer's video card (NVidia GForce 7900GT) to my television (Toshiba 62HM196). I am able to see my desktop on the television, and have the usual expected problem with overscan. I downloaded a program that may help with that, but the overscan is not my concern at the moment.

My problem is that while I can see my desktop, and other windows I bring up such as Windows Explorer or my browser, for example), when I play a video file, say a .vob or .avi, the program that is playing shows on my television, but it is a blank window. This is true with Windows Media Player as well as other programs such as PowerDVD.

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing? Video files play, but on the television, the application window runs but appears blank.

Thanks for your help.

enmoco

03-05-07, 01:42 PM

jayjonbeach

03-05-07, 02:38 PM

My 2 cents:

$500 more for a $3000+ TV is worth the piecs of mind - don't go for the demo unit.

You don't need the power conditioner/battery. It's nice to have, but these TVs do not need a cool-down period for the lamps - the fans shut off as soon as you turn the set off.

Thanks Magred for your input but are you sure about the fan, I was told it runs for about 2 minutes after the TV is shut off to cool the bulb which would make sense?

gosawx

03-05-07, 03:58 PM

Thanks Magred for your input but are you sure about the fan, I was told it runs for about 2 minutes after the TV is shut off to cool the bulb which would make sense?

the fan definitely runs after the set is off. There is also a fan for the internal tuner of the set that runs almost all of the time, depending on the model

geonex88

03-05-07, 05:05 PM

Kelsen

03-05-07, 05:46 PM

This is a better question for the Media PC/Server Forum, BUT do you have a second display connected to the PC? or is the TV the only display connected?

Yes, I do, but I don't see that it matters; what I see on my desktop display is not at issue. Maybe it does matter somehow...

I think I will try posting my question in the Media PC forum, but I posted it here because I have seen people talk specifically about connecting their PCs to their Toshiba DLPs via HDMI - which I have done successfully - but no one has mentioned this particular problem.

Thanks for the reply, and the pointer on the PC group.

RFT!!!

Tone-Loc

03-05-07, 06:10 PM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How can I access the service menu for my Toshiba 50HM66 DLP?

My tv is under warranty but I do not want to wait for Toshiba to get off their rear ends....

The black bars on the tv, whether im watching a DVD or program via Direct tv has an issue. It is thinner on the top left versus the top right and exactly the opposite on the bottom. This is not the light engine problem that these tv's have had in the past ( i had that replaced).

How do i get into the service menu on the TV to adjust this? Obviously the manual that came with the TV does not tell you how.....

Please Help!@!

Don1959

03-05-07, 07:45 PM

I don't think that there are any adjustment for tilt in the service menu - only Hoz and Vert adjustments

Don

Tone-Loc

03-05-07, 08:24 PM

...can you tell me how to get to the service menu?

Don1959

03-05-07, 08:48 PM

On my 56HM195....

Switch inputs to ANT 1

1) Go to Service Mode
a) Press Mute button once on the remote control (1/2 mute)
b) Press Mute button again, but this time keep pressing it. (full mute)
c) While still pressing the Mute button, also press the Menu button on the TV Set.
d) Press menu on remote

As I said this is for an 56HM195

Be careful of what you change... you can screw up your TV in here....

hope it helps...

Don

Tone-Loc

03-05-07, 09:13 PM

Thanks Don, but that didnt work for my model, or im doing something wrong. But I appreciate your response...

magredc5

03-05-07, 11:26 PM

Thanks Magred for your input but are you sure about the fan, I was told it runs for about 2 minutes after the TV is shut off to cool the bulb which would make sense?

The lamp fan shuts off as soon as the TV is turned off. If you don't enable Instant Restart and try it you'll see.

Instant Restart keeps the lamp ON for about 5 minutes after you hit the power button in case you want to turn the set back on so it'll come on instantly. In this mode the lamp fan continues to run since the lamp is on (but supposedly at a lower power) and shuts off with the lamp when the timer expires.

the fan definitely runs after the set is off. There is also a fan for the internal tuner of the set that runs almost all of the time, depending on the model

Yes, but we're talking about the lamp fan. The other internal tuner fan is always on but at much lower speed and less noticeable. The digital tuner and Cablecard slot are always powered on (tuner for TVGOS application and downloading of new data, Cablecard slot to maintain authentication with the cable network) so this fan must stay on to keep those components cool.

geonex88

03-06-07, 08:29 AM

Yes, I do, but I don't see that it matters; what I see on my desktop display is not at issue. Maybe it does matter somehow...

I think I will try posting my question in the Media PC forum, but I posted it here because I have seen people talk specifically about connecting their PCs to their Toshiba DLPs via HDMI - which I have done successfully - but no one has mentioned this particular problem.

Thanks for the reply, and the pointer on the PC group.

RFT!!!

When you have two displays hooked up to a Media Center PC, Windows Will not allow the playback of content on the "secondary" display. Try Cloning your Displays or switch the TV to the Primay monitor.

This will fix your problem. Goodluck!, Feel free to PM me i would be more than happy to help you out.

rahull

03-06-07, 10:54 AM

Thanks Don, but that didnt work for my model, or im doing something wrong. But I appreciate your response...

Press and hold mute is on the third mute press not the second

Roy

hp999

03-06-07, 03:09 PM

I recently purchased the Toshiba 62" (62HM196). It a great TV for the money. Best Buy (Canada) has dropped the price from $2699.99 to $1,999.99 (CAN), if anyone looking for a great TV at a great price, this is a bargain. You can get a 90 day price guarantee from the Brick (as opposed to 30 days from BB) as they will sell TV for slightly less than BB.

I do not know much the new Toshiba 65" sets (with 1080P inputs) will be as they are coming out soon.

Good luck

HP999

Kelsen

03-07-07, 09:33 AM

When you have two displays hooked up to a Media Center PC, Windows Will not allow the playback of content on the "secondary" display. Try Cloning your Displays or switch the TV to the Primay monitor.

This will fix your problem. Goodluck!, Feel free to PM me i would be more than happy to help you out.

I am not running Media Center, but XP Pro. I have tried every combination of primary/secondary displays. I have only used the 'clone' setting, as I wish to see the same output on each device. As I said, I see my desktop, but not the output. The limitation you mention above is interesting, though, and seems to be just what I am experiencing. I will continue to experiment.

Thanks for your time.

zumiezboarder

03-08-07, 09:56 PM

I just bought a new 42hm66. When watching dark scenes i see tiny rainbow circles about 1/8 in. in diameter all over the tv. Is this the rainbow effect everybody talks about? It bothers me to the point I want to get rid of this tv. I am thinking about trading it for the Samsung HL-S4266W. Any comments or suggestions?

Don1959

03-08-07, 10:58 PM

That does not sound like the Rainbow effect... Most people see rainbows in bright fast moving scenes.... or when they quickly look away from the screen....

Are the spots always in the same location? It may be dust particles on the lens or mirror.

Call Toshiba service and have them come out and look at it or, if you have a 30 day return, swap it out for a new one....

If you are seeing rainbows, you will probably see them on the Sammy also.

Don

blakeab2018

03-09-07, 01:01 AM

guffy1

03-09-07, 09:21 AM

There are some ridiculously low prices available on the internet for the 42hm66 right now. I was thinking about getting one for my bedroom, but I cant for the life of me figure out what the actual specs are for this TV.

I have checked on Ebay, and just about every internet site out there, as well as Toshibas website, and the spec sheets are different everywhere you look.

Some sites say 1 HDMI, others say 2. Some sites say it has Cable Card, some sites say it dosent. Some sites say it uses the Talen 5 DLP chip, others say it dosent.

Can anyone that owns one of these TV's give me any information please?

Is it possible that the specs on this set changed in mid production or something like that?

zumiezboarder

03-09-07, 10:25 AM

zumiezboarder

03-09-07, 11:43 AM

Don1959

03-09-07, 11:43 AM

I have a toshiba 56hm195 tv and have a problem. When i turn the lamp to low power instead of high bright there is noticeable noise in the picture. Even with the lamp on high bright there is still noise, or screen flickering lately. I have tried disconnecting everything (xbox 360, direct tv hr20) and it still wont go away. do i need a replacement bulb? anyone with any help please reply it would be much appreciated. i have had the tv almost a year. thanks

I just had a similar problem.... flickering of the picture at startup.... it would go away after a while but was starting to get worse.... a new bulb fix it right up, the set looks brand new again.

The only issue that I have is that the new bulb seems to have a bit of blue push to it... at least more than the previous bulb...although it seems to be settling down a bit as the bulb gets some hours on it...

Anyone else experienced this with Toshiba's new bulbs?

Don

Don1959

03-09-07, 11:56 AM

I just talk to the service man. He said I have a bad light engine. He said light engines are back ordered two three months. I didn't ask him but is light engine failures a problem with the 42hm66? Can anybody comment? I feel like i may have bought a lemon.

Replacing the light engine is Toshibas quick way of fixing most problems... the light engine is the heart of the system, so if you replace it you are most likely going to replace the problem part.....

If you have a 30 day return period from the store, I would swap it out for a new one.... if not tell Toshiba that waiting 2 to 3 months is not acceptable and push for them to replace the set...... or at least you might be able to speed up the repair....

Don

zumiezboarder

03-09-07, 12:16 PM

Do you think I should get a different tv? or swap it out for the same one? It is still within 30 days of purchase so i can exchange it. They did clue me in they are running out so i may be able to get a different tv. What should i do. I really like the Samsung 42" DLP and am thinking about maybe trying to get that one on the exchange. any thoughts?

Don1959

03-09-07, 02:49 PM

I would swap it ... as to which one to get, that is up to you. Both are good sets when working properly.... go to the store and look at them closely... get them to put on some material that you are familiar with.... and try some 4x3 material and see how that looks.

Don

BasicBlak

03-09-07, 04:25 PM

Dual component inputs, one HDMI.... Follow this link and click on the RESOURCES tab; then click on OWNERS MANUAL - ENGLISH, at which point a PDF file of the actual manual will load, confirming this set's features and specs. :)

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=42hm66

There are some ridiculously low prices available on the internet for the 42hm66 right now. I was thinking about getting one for my bedroom, but I cant for the life of me figure out what the actual specs are for this TV.

I have checked on Ebay, and just about every internet site out there, as well as Toshibas website, and the spec sheets are different everywhere you look.

Some sites say 1 HDMI, others say 2. Some sites say it has Cable Card, some sites say it dosent. Some sites say it uses the Talen 5 DLP chip, others say it dosent.

Can anyone that owns one of these TV's give me any information please?

Is it possible that the specs on this set changed in mid production or something like that?

Redbullseye41

03-11-07, 11:51 PM

What's the cost to have a tech come out and replace the ballast in on of these TVs? 52HM84 Toshiba

cwc123

03-12-07, 12:24 PM

My "new and improved" lamp lasted exactly 9 months.

I'm ready to give up on this set. It has a nice picture, but I've blown 3 bulbs in less than 18 months. This is completely unacceptable.

sanats

03-12-07, 02:17 PM

While replacing the ballast, I inadvertently "disconnected" the Lamp Door Open Sensor wires from "wherever" they connect. This is a white and blue wire set with white plastic connector. The service manual schematic is no help, and I was never any good at pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey, so any help would be greatly appreciated. The set is a 52HM84. Toshiba Customer Support was no help. Naturally, the unit will not power on with this open connection.

waited18years

03-13-07, 11:23 AM

sanats

03-13-07, 02:50 PM

From the circuit diagrams it looks like the door open detect cable runs between the "door sw" circuit board (small one near the door) to P902 on the "main power" circuit board.
[QUOTE]

That is what I needed...thank you so much for your reply. The set is now fine (and so are my kids).

Joeycasz

03-13-07, 10:53 PM

shome

03-14-07, 12:11 AM

I have a 56HM195 and when I turn on the television before turning on anything else, I see that half of the screen(right side ) is lighter than the other side. I notice this a lot when watching DVD's during dark scenes. I've just recently noticed this today. It's pretty much split up the middle. It's really driving me nuts. The bulb has never been replaced since i've owned it. I've had the TV Since Feb 2006. I haven't gone into the service area of the TV to see how many hours the bulb has but i can't imagine it being more than 3000 as i don't use the TV for more than maybe 2-3 hours a day.

Has anyone had this problem before and if so what is the fix or what is causing the problem? The TV is under an extended warranty so i'm not worried. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

This sounds like the problem I had with my 56HM195. They ended up replacing the Light Engine completely. (one of 4 Light Engines replaced in mine).. I had so many problems with my 56HM195 from a bulb, So many Light Engines, and these lines in the right corner that NEVER went away.
You need to have 4 or more issues in 1 year to have Toshiba replace your TV. They replaced mine and upgraded me at the same time.

BTW, Toshiba discontinued that model (195), and for apparently good reasons. Again, these are my opinions on a bad experience with this model TV. My .02 cents. Hope that helps.

magredc5

03-14-07, 01:01 AM

This sounds like the problem I had with my 56HM195. They ended up replacing the Light Engine completely. (one of 4 Light Engines replaced in mine).. I had so many problems with my 56HM195 from a bulb, So many Light Engines, and these lines in the right corner that NEVER went away.
You need to have 4 or more issues in 1 year to have Toshiba replace your TV. They replaced mine and upgraded me at the same time. .

FYI - Light engine replacement is a catch-all solution in an attempt to fix any display issue since it's a simple service operation - the light engines can then be retested/refurbished. Out of warranty, this is quite expensive.

BTW, Toshiba discontinued that model (195), and for apparently good reasons. Again, these are my opinions on a bad experience with this model TV. My .02 cents. Hope that helps.

Toshiba didn't "discontinue" the 195 model. They just update it every year, i.e. 196 for 2006 and 197 for 2007. That's a misleading statement.

I have not had any issues thus far other than S/W updates. Still original lamp FWIW.

shome

03-14-07, 01:26 AM

FYI - Light engine replacement is a catch-all solution in an attempt to fix any display issue since it's a simple service operation - the light engines can then be retested/refurbished. Out of warranty, this is quite expensive.

Toshiba didn't "discontinue" the 195 model. They just update it every year, i.e. 196 for 2006 and 197 for 2007. That's a misleading statement.

I have not had any issues thus far other than S/W updates. Still original lamp FWIW.

1) ** He has an extended warranty, so this is a non-issue. Catch all or not. Each problem is unique. Mine was a complete hassle. His is Very likely a light engine issue. Once my light engine With this Exact issue was replaced, it never appeared again. The Lines never went away. A inherent flaw in my TV.

2) ** The '195' model, the 56" 1080p he has now is Discontinued for a Fact (so says Toshiba Techs) This is in no way a 'misleading statement.' This model/size was not at all updated to a 196 or 197 model.

My 56HM195 was REPLACED with a 62HM196 because that TV/size is No Longer Made. Many Toshiba Techs Told Me that model is no longer made. I had been on the phone with too many to count since August of '06.

3) I had too many issues, lamp included. My TV was indeed a LEMON.

magredc5

03-14-07, 12:51 PM

2) ** The '195' model, the 56" 1080p he has now is Discontinued for a Fact (so says Toshiba Techs) This is in no way a 'misleading statement.' This model/size was not at all updated to a 196 or 197 model.

My 56HM195 was REPLACED with a 62HM196 because that TV/size is No Longer Made. Many Toshiba Techs Told Me that model is no longer made. I had been on the phone with too many to count since August of '06.

The 56" model is no longer offered on the current year model, so the 56" model is discontinued, not the MX195 series as you originally stated. It is now the MX196. Your statement was very misleading because it implies that all 195 models were defective based on your opinion.

If you look at the MX196 models the improvements were mainly to the video processor, video adjustments and upgraded DMD chip. It uses the same Radiance 150W Hi-Bright lamp.

shome

03-14-07, 09:11 PM

The 56" model is no longer offered on the current year model, so the 56" model is discontinued, not the MX195 series as you originally stated. It is now the MX196. Your statement was very misleading because it implies that all 195 models were defective based on your opinion.

If you look at the MX196 models the improvements were mainly to the video processor, video adjustments and upgraded DMD chip. It uses the same Radiance 150W Hi-Bright lamp.

I did not mention anything about the MX versions being canceled at all, 56" or otherwise. I only mentioned the HM195's, the one that I had, and the TV that the poster above is having issues with. HM not MX.
I also never mentioned or was implying that all 195's were defective, HM's or MX's. The 56HM195, My TV, was.

" the 56" model is discontinued, not the MX195 series as you originally stated."

Just to be clear, I did not mention anything about the MX versions. The 56" is discontuned. My 56" was an HM and extremely faulty.

Joeycasz

03-14-07, 10:17 PM

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll be calling this coming week to have it looked at. I will say this though, the TV up until this point has been amazing. Even if i really wanted to i could get away with not calling it in for repair because you only notice the picture issue on black screens. I of course would NEVER do that and will have it repaired.

jayjonbeach

03-14-07, 10:48 PM

magredc5

03-14-07, 11:41 PM

I
p.s. Magred - the fans on this TV do continue to run after shutting it down, the manual refers to it and I heard them myself. It also says you can disable this option so maybe this is why yours do not.

Thanks in advance for any help. Jay

As I've said, the Quick Restart feature keeps the lamp and the lamp fan running for several minutes after hitting the power off button, but the lamp is still ON. From your manual:

If Quick Restart is set to On and you turn off the TV, the
following will occur for a few minutes:
• The screen (lamp) lights dimly; and
• The fans continue to run.

Once the timer expires the lamp and lamp fan turns OFF together.

With this feature OFF, the lamp and lamp fans turn off immediately.

There is also a separate tuner/CableCard fan that runs 7x24 but much quieter.

I'm not sure you're saying the same thing.

piturra

03-15-07, 02:16 PM

I decided to pull the trigger on this although I think I have 30 days with BB to exchange it for another product which very well could be the 72hm196 if it goes on clearance like I think it will soon or the new 65hm197.

I have some questions on this after playing around last night:

1. Does this TV upconvert every signal you give it to 1080p, ie: hdmi imput, component input, rca input from reg DVD player, cable channels?

Yes it does, every video INPUT you connect will be deinterlaced (1080i) or upconverted (480i, 480p, 720p) to = 1080p!!!

Cable and DVD look 'good' but is this really 1080p? I guess this is asking a lot from the TV to take a crappy signal and upconvert it so far, similiar to if you had a 1 megapixel camera and had digital 4x zoom = interpolation error.

Yep, all 1080p!!! That's the Native Resolution of these xxHM196 HDTV's!

2. WTF are the black lines doing on my screen. I bought LOTR in the Widescreen version thinking that when I one day buy a Widescreen TV I will not have black lines, I tried all 5 of the picture settings and still had them? If I should have bought the full screen version to avoid this which is my guess then this really seems retarded.

It will depend on the original aspect ratio (OAR) of the movie, i.e. ...

2.35.1 / 2.40:1: Will have a small black lines above and below in an 16x9 HDTV screen.

1.78:1 / 1.85:1: Will NOT HAVE the black lines but FILL the entire 16x9 HDTV screen.

3. I tried component out from my DVD player to the TV (3 cables versus 1 with RCA) and the movie was Black and White, checked the cables and they are hooked up right. Black lines are still there and PQ didn't look any better than regular RCA either?

Guessing here, but check your DVD Player's Setup Menu and make sure it's Video Output is ...

1) 16x9 widescreen
2) Component

4. Should I bother with an upcoverting player and if so which one works good with this set? I see lots of issues with macroblocking and some people saying that some TV's upscale as good as some of the players, which also refers back to question 1.

The following is after I CALIBRATED the HDMI / Component VIDEO respectively, Color & Tint using the BLUE filter and Contrast & Brightness using the Pluge Test Screen - Digital Video Essentials DVD.

From my experience, the SD DVDs looked superior from my Panasonic S77s upconverting (1080i) DVD player w/HDMI vs. my Panasonic RP56 w/Component.

Then when I bought my Toshiba HD-A1 w/HDMI, those same SD DVDs look even better w/smoother PQ and more detailed (1080i) vs. my Panasonic S77s upconverting (1080i) DVD player w/HDMI, so I sold my S77s!!!

YMMV

Then there is the HDCP issue as well, I think this model of TV is compliant through HDMI?

It is!!!

I would only want to spend 200 or less but I do see people saying the Tosh A2 is a great upcoverter which is quite a bit more however.

If it's the same as the HD-A1, then it is a great upconverter!

"Casino Royal" WS 2-disc SE SD DVD looked glorious upconverted = 1080i (Toshiba HD-A1)!!!

I wonder if I should trade the set in for the new 65" model which looks to be out in the next two weeks according to Amazon, the price is really low for a new model at $2199 USD. The advantage besides size is the PC input but more important the 1080 imput for future blue-ray or other use. This set probably does a good job taking 1080i and displaying it as 1080p from what I seen but having the TRUE signal untouched would be better with no error I'm sure.

Decisions, decisions! Either way, you'll love the 1080p PQ!!!

p.s. Magred - the fans on this TV do continue to run after shutting it down, the manual refers to it and I heard them myself. It also says you can disable this option so maybe this is why yours do not.

Thanks in advance for any help. Jay

magredc5 answered your question.

FYI: Fan noise in my 62HM196 is virtually silent in my 20' x 30' HT/family room when the HDTV is OFF. (it was the same with my previous 56HM195) I can hear the fan working after I turned-off my HDTV, if I'm standing next to the front of my 62HM196.

Phil

khwiggins2

03-15-07, 02:57 PM

mswjtcs

03-17-07, 09:59 PM

I recently purchased the Toshiba 52HMX95 for $850 which included the $400 matching stand. Wow! What a bargain! We are extremely happy with the picture quality of our Xbox 360 thru the component cable.

As the 2 component inputs are needed for the Gamecube and PS2, I wanted to hook the 360 up thru the VGA input. I also decided to return my upconverting DVD player and purchased the Xbox 360 HD DVD player. I read that this would not upconvert SD DVD's thru the component cable but would upconvert to 720p thru a VGA cable.

The VGA connection resulted with colors looking extremely faded and pic quality is bad. I called Microsoft XBox and they felt it was a bad cable. My xbox360 dashboard screen would turn green and barely readable when I set the 360's screen resolution to match the tv's resolution. I purchased another cable and it does the same thing.

Does anyone know if there could be a problem with my VGA input on the television? I did purchase a warranty. I have read in numerous forums that people have improved game lag by using their VGA inputs. I don't really have a game lag problem but didn't expect to lose so much picture quality. I would appreciate any input as to how I can fix this problem.

greggdogg

03-18-07, 03:57 PM

My 46HM95 doesn't remember my stretching settings once I turn off the TV. I'm using an SA8300HD STB via HDMI.

For example:
- If I go from SD to HD programming, the picture remains stretched.
- If I turn off the TV while watching SD stretched, then turn it on, I have to adjust the picture size.

Is there any way to make this remember settings?

franksids

03-21-07, 12:01 PM

I'm new to this forum so I'll give some background.

I bought a 46HMX85 in August of 2005. It is a beautiful set, great for watching upconverted movies, really nice with the xbox360 (gears of war is amazing) and HD sports look great.

Of course, then there's the bulb. I've had the TV for just over a year and a half and am now on my fifth bulb. I phoned Toshiba today and was told that I "qualify" for an extended bulb warranty until August of 2007.

When I questioned them on the fact that there is obviously something wrong with the TV and that I would like it to be fixed, or even better, replaced, they said that I should have made this request during my warranty period. When I replied that I had the bulb replaced 4 times during the warranty and they did nothing about it they said I should've asked.....nice! It's my fault that their TV is screwed.

When I asked to speak to a supervisor about getting some service work on the TV I was given the run around and a hard-time because I didn't have the name and number of the service tech that came out. I was then told that my replacement lamp would be on hold until they could verify my claims. The CSR flat-out told me that if I had just accepted the lamp and not asked to take the call higher I would have the lamp, but because I asked to speak to a supervisor I ad put a hold on that. So lesson learned...get what you ask for, THEN phone back and complain. I like how the onus is on me to keep track of the service claims and not them.

Anyway, not looking for advice, just thought I'd share my story and experience. However, if you're looking for a beautiful 46inch Toshiba DLP I think I know someone who would like to sell it...

andycarleton

03-23-07, 11:17 AM

OK, so I've had my 62HM196 for about a month now. I upgraded from a nine year old 55" Toshiba 4:3 that I paid about $2000 for.

I'm very happy with the picture quality. Using my old Video Essentials non-HD DVD I got the sharpness, chroma, brightness, and contrast adjusted down from the "HEY LOOK AT ME!!!!" showroom floor levels.

I haven't noticed the rainbow effect.

My set is 17'-18' from my couch so the only time I notice any fan noise is when the volume is down and I walk by the set. Our family room/home theater has blackout curtains so I'm running the lamp at low brightness.

My biggest disappointment is the lack of dual tuner PIP/POP (I missed that in my research) and the fact that you are limited as to what you can display in the left window vs the right window. For instance, even though I have Ant 1 set up for QAM and Ant 2 set up for ATSC, I can't display them side by side. Fortunately, I had a spare Hisense ATSC set-top box which I've run into one of the component inputs.

We didn't purchase the matching base, since it narrows at the back like the set. I wanted something with a bit more room, so we bought a generic glass and gray metal stand at the local Best Buy for half the price of the Toshiba stand. Looks and works great.

Overall, I'm very happy with the purchase. I couldn't find a set, LCD/Plasma or RPU, that looked noticeably better for less than $2800 (The 62HM196 was $1799 delivered to my driveway in less than a week from TigerDirect.)

mapper

03-26-07, 04:49 PM

Just asking here,
My lamp seems to have blown a day ago. I called Toshiba and they told me "It will be out soon." Do any of you have any idea, how long this new one will last? I like my TV and it has been great so far with the CableCard and the upconverting HDMI DVD player. Should I not be wasting my time on this one? I just got this TV last year so it would be a pain to replace it.

My specs: 62HM15A and CableCard.
--mapper

i2k

03-26-07, 07:26 PM

What exactly will be out soon? The new lamp?

mapper

03-26-07, 08:10 PM

Yes, the lamp. They[Toshiba service rep] said it should be out within weeks end.
And I got it from Costco. I heard you can return it[TV] and they won't ask any questions. But I heard they are changing the policy.

rocknskadude

03-26-07, 10:07 PM

can someone post their thoughts on the 42HM66? I'm stuck between either getting that or a refurbished Vizio GV42L LCD. Thanks..

zumiezboarder

03-27-07, 11:41 PM

I guess i have the same question. I guess i could scoure through the thread for answers but i may as well post the question again. I have a 42hm66 I just purchased. Only problem i did my research after my impulse buy. I am a little worried about this tv especially with the bulb. I cannot find a single retailer online that carries the bulb for the 42hm66. It is different than all the other hm66 series bulbs. Can anyone post any thoughts on their experience with this tv specifically with the bulb. I am wondering if i may have purchased a lemon.

mapper

03-29-07, 05:33 PM

Got my lamp today. Hopefully it will go fine and the lamp won't be a lemon.
Has anyone heard if changing the firmware affects lamp longevity?

7:30PM Update- Installed new lamp, working for now, picture is brighter.
--mapper

DarrellG

03-30-07, 10:39 AM

Hey guys/gals, been a while since I posted here. I finally decided to take the plunge into HD land with my tax return money and found a GREAT deal on a Toshiba 56HM195 on ebay for $1000. It is factory refurbished and I got the Square Trade 3 year warranty on it. I believe this will cover any bulb issues I may have in the future (correct me if I'm wrong if someone knows about Square Trade).

Any recommendations you can make to an HD-Noob would be GREATLY appreciated.

I have a couple of questions.

1. How many HDMI inputs does the 56HM195 have? A few sites I see say 2, and a couple say only 1. I should be getting the TV early next week.

2. Can this TV show "true" 1080p?

Thanks in advance, I'm sure I'll see you around more now that I finally took the plunge. :D

gosawx

03-30-07, 11:47 AM

1) 2
2) The set scales and/or deinterlaces every incoming signal to 1080p

magredc5

03-30-07, 01:16 PM

2. Can this TV show "true" 1080p?

If by "true 1080p" you're referring to the ability to accept 1080p source, this TV does not. It only accepts up to 1080i input and displays everything at 1080p on the display. HD source at 720p and 1080i are obviously displayed better than SD 480i.

The difference between a 1080p video input and a 1080i video input on this TV is minimal if even noticeable. There are many posts on this topic for more info.

DarrellG

03-30-07, 01:56 PM

If by "true 1080p" you're referring to the ability to accept 1080p source, this TV does not. It only accepts up to 1080i input and displays everything at 1080p on the display. HD source at 720p and 1080i are obviously displayed better than SD 480i.

The difference between a 1080p video input and a 1080i video input on this TV is minimal if even noticeable. There are many posts on this topic for more info.

Thanks so much, that's exactly what I was looking for. I tried jumping around a few pages but there's just so many!!!

I'll be here a lot more now.

Thanks again guys!!! :D

toshi_dude

03-30-07, 08:09 PM

Just bought a 50hm66 today with the 4 year service plan. really excited for delivery.

anyone know where to get a stand (st5560) at a decent price? or should i got to target and get a $99 jobie.

Tamas

03-30-07, 08:20 PM

Hello, would some kind souls please post your drv's and cut's from the service menu.
If any one has a service manual, I would also greatly appreciate it if you could post the factory offsets for the drives and cuts.

Thank you.

Regards, Tom

Traveler62

03-31-07, 01:33 PM

Julio Bro!

03-31-07, 01:42 PM

Thanks. This works fine when going from SD to HD, but when going back to SD from HD, it stays in the Natural mode and the black bars return. How can I ensure that the SD will stay in TheatreWide 1 mode?

Hmmm...I find that odd. My cable box is from SA and is set the same way as yours, 1080 for HD and 480p for SD, and the Toshiba maintains Theaterwide 1 when switching to SD. This is also true for my upconv. DVD player. Maybe the Motorola unit doesn't communicate as well with the Toshiba; are you using HDMI or the comp. connection?

Also, I read at other of your posts: "I've tried turning AutoAspect to "off", but switching from SD to HD produces a very "zoomed in" picture. Thanks." I don't use AutoAspect because it forces Natural or FULL on material I like at other zoom. I suggest turn it off and try a "learning" thing with the TV. When you see SD, make sure the Toshiba is at TW1, then change to HD and make sure it's on Natural. The settings will probably stay as the defaults for each situation.

Julio Bro!

03-31-07, 02:21 PM

Julio Bro!

03-31-07, 02:33 PM

Hey people, a couple of weeks ago I saw a CES 2007 report on HDNET. It was a great HD program with the latest on electronics, but the thing that grab me the most was a new Samsung DLP TV with an LED lightengine.

Man, finally! Hmmm...I wonder...if successful, would there be retrofit units for TV's like ours?

Tamas

03-31-07, 04:23 PM

Sorry about that, I have a 52hm85.

The blacks are washed out - as I was looking through the service menu I noticed that the cuts were higher than the drives. Which to me mean that their would be more light coming through in low light (dark) scenes than necessary.

rcut = 60
gcut = 60
bcut = 60
rdrv = 40
gdrv = 40
bdrv = 51

Regards, Tom

Eiderlon

03-31-07, 09:16 PM

I have a 52HM84 that I originally used with an OTA antenna. In 2006 I used an HR10-250 TiVo DVR and now I am using an HR20 DVR. During all of that time I have grown increasingly frustrated by what seems to be excessive overscan.

For instance when I watch 24 on FOX (in HD) I can only see the top-left quarter of the FOX logo down in the lower right hand corner of my screen. By that, I mean that I can only see the top half of the letter "F" in FOX and I can only see the top left quadrant of the letter "O" in the FOX logo. The lower half of the F, 3/4 of the O, and all of the X are lost in the overscan.

I have used the MUTE MUTE MUTE--HOLD and press MENU on the TV to enter the Service Menu and get the "s" display on the screen. I have "easter egged" the various service menu settings with no apparent success at reducing the overscan.

The HPOS and VPOS do nothing but move the picture around and the CUT and DRV settings control only color levels.

Can anyone tell me exactly which menu parameters need to be tweaked to reduce the overscan?

Thanks,
Mike

Eiderlon

03-31-07, 11:45 PM

If you have one in some digital format like TXT DOC or PDF etc. Please PM me. Thanks,
Mike

Tamas

04-01-07, 08:59 AM

Eiderlon, what settings have you "easter egged" ?

dhan

04-01-07, 10:33 AM

Eiderlon

04-02-07, 01:16 PM

Tamas - By "Easter egged" I mean fooled with them to see what they do and returned them to their original value.

None of the settings seemed to have the desired effect.

And now, with Dhan's quote of UMR's post it looks like I don't have an option in the service menu.

Now I do see that UMR wrote I have not seen this flexibility on any DLP based display outside of physical adjustment of the DMD. and this makes me curious about what the 'DMD' is.

Can anyone tell me?

I did remove the entire front screen once and saw that there is a lens shooting at the mirror inside but I did not mess with it for fear of goofing up the focus.

So, what is this DMD that UMD writes about?

gosawx

04-02-07, 01:48 PM

The DMD is the Digital Microdisplay Device, which, and I'm assuming here, he's referring to the whole light engine. Light, optical engine, color wheel, DLP chip, etc.

Eiderlon

04-02-07, 02:29 PM

gosawx wrote The DMD is the Digital Microdisplay Device

I see. So then that begs the question: are there physical adjustments that can be made anywhere in the light engine (DMD) assembly to reduce the overall picture size at the screen thereby reducing overscan?

Mike

gosawx

04-02-07, 02:45 PM

gosawx wrote

I see. So then that begs the question: are there physical adjustments that can be made anywhere in the light engine (DMD) assembly to reduce the overall picture size at the screen thereby reducing overscan?

Mike

I dunno, I think that most would have better luck adjusting their Flux Capacitor

Don1959

04-02-07, 03:17 PM

I dunno, I think that most would have better luck adjusting their Flux Capacitor

Lol.... or the Phase Inducer...

rick325

04-02-07, 06:03 PM

...but only if you have 1.21 Gigawats. I wonder if that is EnergyStar compliant :)

In all seriousness:

What is the 62MZ196? I ask because it is the only Toshiba RPTV I see that has an IR-IN.

From the manual:
Connecting an IR receiver/repeater control system to the
IR IN infrared terminal

For additional control options for your home theater system,
you can connect an IR receiver/repeater control system (not
included) to the TV’s IR IN terminal.
You will need:

• IR cable

To operate the TV with this connection, point the Toshiba TV
remote control toward the front of the IR receiver/repeater
control system.

This is an important feature for me as I want to use an IR Emitter to control the TV. It doesn't seem like the 62MX196 has the feature. Am I wrong here? Do any of the other Tosh RPTVs have it (62HM167?)?

Thanks...

cwc123

04-05-07, 10:50 AM

I have a 46HM95 that is about 18 months old. I am on my 4th lamp. I figured out the average lifespan of my lamps and came up with about 1500 hrs.

Even though Toshiba has been relatively hassle free in replacing the lamps for free (as well they should, since the lamps are not performing anywhere near their specs), I am tired of dealing with this issue. A $2000 TV should not be blowing a lamp every 6 months.

I fired off a nasty letter to some higher ups at Toshiba, BB, and the warranty company. Toshiba blew me off, but BB has stepped up and agreed to refund my money. Kudos to BB, and I can say that I will not buy another Toshiba product.

forty9er

04-06-07, 11:50 PM

I have had my 56HM66 for about 4 months now and love it. The stand came with my purchase. Oh, did I forget to mention I got the TV at cost. But the downside to that is that I was not elgible for the extended warranty. Anyone know how much the lamps cost if I had to repllace them??

Petems

04-07-07, 12:38 AM

I've had my 62 inch Toshiba since December 05 without a problem (sorry can't remember the exact model (62hm someting) with a cable card that I never used. It has been great. I bought an extra bulb but so far haven't needed it.

Pete

Petems

04-07-07, 12:40 AM

Bought it in December of 2004 not 2005. Sorry about that. My how time flies!

Babe Ruthless

04-08-07, 02:33 PM

Good Day!

I think this is probably a good place to post this question as there are so many knowledgable posters. We own a 62MX196 which we LOVE. Except for right now when it is not working properly. We have the DLP connected to a Motorola 6412 Cable Box w/PVR and Harmon Kaardon AVI 435 receiver. The setup was working without problems for months but suddenly we are having issues with the Toshiba unit not being able to detect the Cable Box upon powering them both up. We have not had any issues with the sound setup.

The cable box is connected to the TV via a 4 ft HDMI cable on input HDMI 1. IF we unplug the TV (bad for the bulb) and then turn it back on with the cable unit already plugged in, the cable unit is detected properly and then the setup works as it should. But this is a pain to do and likely drastically shortens the life of the bulb. The cable box was having some odd brain farts, and has been replaced but this has not corrected the issue. Any suggestions of what we could try to get this issue resolved? Please and thanks!

Petems

04-08-07, 07:45 PM

I have a 62HM94 and purchased a Toshiba sd-5000 upconverting DVD player. I am not excited about the picture. After doing some research I am really confused. Should I expect a better picture from DVD's? The picture from the standard DVD player (hooked up with component cables) was very good already. I am thinking of returning the sd-5000 and trying a different upconverting player. Anyone have a player that works well with the HM94 ? Any info I can get would be appreciated.
Thanks

Traveler62

04-08-07, 10:09 PM

tomanystraydogs

04-08-07, 10:19 PM

Is this the thread for the 50HM67?

mapper

04-09-07, 06:42 PM

Is this the thread for the 50HM67?

Yup, tomanystraydogs this is. And obviously it is a DLP, if not there always is another thread for other televisions.

tomanystraydogs

04-10-07, 04:30 AM

Anyone know what has changed between the 50HM66 and the 50HM67?

Great price on the 67's, wondering if they have fixed the past issues with the 66's.

tia

tomanystraydogs

04-10-07, 04:46 AM

But then, consider this. For decades high intensity bulbs and lamps have been used in more difficult places than the inside of a TV or projector; for instance...cars. Think about it, sealed beams and halogen bulbs are used with vibration, excess heat, excess cold, and stay on even before a crash. And for how long these work? 5, 8 years, perhaps more; so, what's the deal with the TV lamps? People might say: "Oh, but these TVs use special optics and higher intensities which require delicate elements to work." Although that's true, it's the same for the other examples.

Cars are using high intensity discharge units which use other gasses, besides halogen, to work. Lamp posts are another example, they use sodium and mercury (like ours), to obtain more light intensity at the same power rate. Lamp posts endure most things a car endures, and I've seen them work during hurricanes until power goes out...then they turn back on...safe.

I was thinking the same thing. I have 2 mercury vapor light up on my barn. They have run from dusk till dawn for the past 17 years without fail.

RAINMAN 2

04-10-07, 08:27 AM

Looking to get the best picture settings on my 50HM66 Toshiba. Anybody have there settings for me. Greatly apreciated.

Paulpaul

04-10-07, 02:55 PM

I’m currently in the process of purchasing a 62hm196 from Best Buy. I’ve read the advice regarding purchase of extra warranty and some have mentioned about purchasing warranty from sources other than the retailer. Can anybody supply links to companies who supply these extra warranty?

Thanks

Petems

04-10-07, 11:26 PM

Traveler 62,
I could go with HD DVD but I really don't want to spend the $$$ until the technology is beyond it's infancy. Maybe the upconvert DVD player isn't necessary with my tv? In any case I'm probably going to return the toshiba and get something else. I hate the remote...too hard to read without my readers LOL.

Pete

waited18years

04-11-07, 11:56 AM

A quick check of estimated life time for car headlamp life expectancy gives:

normal: 1000 hours
HID: 3000 hours

The 3000 hour estimate for HID car headlamps roughly matches the life of the first lamp in my 62HM84, which lasted just under 4000 hours.

The Toshiba 62HM84 Owner's Manual says "The average useful service life for the lamp is approximately 8,000 hours in LOW POWER mode or 6,000 hours in HI BRIGHT mode.", but this seems to be wishful thinking at best.

A nice article on car HID headlamps can be found at: http://www.aa1car.com/library/hid_headlamps.htm

The descriptions of the HID lamp technology can help anyone interested in how the TV lamps work.

lienly

04-11-07, 08:30 PM

haven't checked how many hr of my 62HM84 b/c forgot how to enter service mode then what to press next?

now besides UHP lamp, there are laser and LED light sources. is possible to put HID into RP?

A quick check of estimated life time for car headlamp life expectancy gives:

normal: 1000 hours
HID: 3000 hours

The 3000 hour estimate for HID car headlamps roughly matches the life of the first lamp in my 62HM84, which lasted just under 4000 hours.

The Toshiba 62HM84 Owner's Manual says "The average useful service life for the lamp is approximately 8,000 hours in LOW POWER mode or 6,000 hours in HI BRIGHT mode.", but this seems to be wishful thinking at best.

A nice article on car HID headlamps can be found at: http://www.aa1car.com/library/hid_headlamps.htm

The descriptions of the HID lamp technology can help anyone interested in how the TV lamps work.

waited18years

04-12-07, 11:25 AM

haven't checked how many hr of my 62HM84 b/c forgot how to enter service mode then what to press next?

now besides UHP lamp, there are laser and LED light sources. is possible to put HID into RP?xxHM84 Service Mode

ENTERING SERVICE MODE
1) Press MUTE button twice on Remote Control.

2) Press MUTE button again and keep pressing.

3) While pressing the MUTE button, press MENU button on TV set. 'S' will be displayed on upper right. Note that the remote control must continue to be pointed at the screen while the MENU button is pressed, this is much easier with a helper.

DISPLAYING THE ADJUSTMENT MENU
1) Press MENU button on TV. Item and Data pair will be displayed on upper left.

RETURN TO SERVICE MODE FROM ADJUSTMENT MENU
1) Press MENU button on TV. 'S' will be displayed on upper right.

SELF DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
1) Press “9” button on Remote Control during display of adjustment menu in the service mode. The diagnosis will begin to check if interface among IC’s is executed properly.

EXIT FROM SERVICE MODE
1) Pressing POWER button to turn off the TV once.

The Philips UHP lamp is a type of HID (High Intensity Discharge). The LED/LASER and HID are the only light source technologies that I am aware of for use in RPTVs.

indil377

04-13-07, 08:25 AM

cwc123

04-13-07, 09:20 AM

indil377

04-13-07, 05:58 PM

I had my light engine replaced in August. It took the service center 3 tries to get it right. After 1 month, the TV started screwing up again. I got the run around by Toshiba. I pretty much had to make sure everything that was feeding the TV was functioning properly. Since my warranty expired during this circus but a problem still exists, they decided to repair the TV but I had to get it to the service center. I took the unit to the service center the second week of January. I picked the unit up Tuesday. They told me they didn't find anything wrong. I go home set it up and as soon as the unit comes on the picture is exactly the way I told the service center people. So, I had to screw around with Toshiba again and they want me to take the unit back to the service center. I have to wait for them to set up the TV in their shop and show them what I am seeing. This will be the 5th time I've had to have it looked at. My question is if anyone here has had a similar problem and what did Toshiba do to reslove this? I've pretty much lost all confidence in the TV and would much rather have my money back. Thx!

Here's an update. I showed up at the service center. They open at 10am. The guy was 10 minutes late. We carried the TV in and hooked it up to cable and a DVD player. After about 5 minutes of the TV warming up the symptoms started to appear. The Technician started telling me that what I was seeing was interference from the cable TV that is being amplified by the AD convertors. We then switched to the DVD player on HDMI 1. The TV was well warmed up by then and the symptoms were drastic and the technician could not deny there was a problem any longer. I then asked this guy how he could have this TV for 60 days and not notice this? He had no answer. Then, the dumb bastard just unplugged the TV set and didn't let the lamp cool down! That's real good for the lamp. Now it's a waiting game. I've already missed the last 2 super bowls, NCAA finals and 1 world series. What a shame.

Don1959

04-13-07, 06:12 PM

This will be the 5th time I've had to have it looked at. My question is if anyone here has had a similar problem and what did Toshiba do to reslove this? I've pretty much lost all confidence in the TV and would much rather have my money back. Thx!

Toshiba is replacing my 56HM195 with a 62HM196 or a 57HM167 after 3 light engine replacements....

Tell them that this set is a lemon and that you want it replaced not repaired... escalate it up to the manager/supervisor... and then go higher if you have to. keep trying... don't be nasty or angry... just firm.

Hope things work out for you.

Don

mirwin101

04-14-07, 04:43 PM

Note: I had to remove the links from my post below because I haven't made 5 posts....

I've had a 52HM84 for 2 years now. Yesterday I had to replace the bulb for the 3rd time. But after putting the new bulb in the TV still wouldn't turn on. I got the flashing light like when the bulb is bad. So I took the bulb back out and made sure it looked OK, reinstalled it, plugged the TV back in and turned it on. The TV started with the flashing light again, but after 30 seconds or so it came on and worked fine for the rest of the day.

Then this morning when I turned it on it started with the flashing lights again. After a minute it came on again and worked fine. I'm afraid to turn it off because it might not come back on!

After reading this thread I think the ballast board is probably bad. Does that sound right? I'm thinking of trying to do this myself. It looks like I can buy a service manual for $15 at the following link. Has anybody used this site (Manualscenter) before?

It also appears that I can buy the ballast board for $48 + shipping from the following site. Has anyone used this site (TigerDirect) before?

I figure to do it myself would end up costing around $75 or so. Do you think this would be much cheaper than letting a Toshiba service center do it? I've tried calling several but apparently they are not open on weekends. Also, does anyone agree that this is probably a bad ballast board, or could it be something else?

Thanks,
mirwin101

mirwin101

04-14-07, 05:05 PM

Does it sound like a crazy idea to leave the TV on 24 hours a day for a few days until I get a new ballast or until I can get a repair service here? It wouldn't hurt anything to leave the TV on continuously for a few days would it?

w4man

04-15-07, 06:17 PM

mirwin101

04-15-07, 06:37 PM

I also have a 52HM84, purchased in Nov 04, lamp went out in Nov 05. It lasted until last week. Called Toshiba again, took advantage of my extended warranty and got a service call number. They came out 3 days later and replaced the lamp, but this time it did not correct the issue. Your issue is exactly like mine. As soon as they call with an analysis, I'll post to let you know. This set has been good so far other than the lamp, I just hope I don't have to open a lemonade stand...

Thanks. I'd be very interested to hear what they say.

DarrellG

04-16-07, 05:53 PM

Well, I finally got my TV today (Toshiba 56HM195).

It seems that the first one broke during shipping, so they had to send me another one. Got the other one today and the bulb is blown on it. How do they sell a Toshiba Certified Refurb without a new bulb?

What would be the quickest way for me to get a bulb? Toshiba says 3-5 days. Can I buy it somewhere online and then return the one Toshiba sends me?

I know I can probably search for this topic somewhere else but I hope you can understand my haste and frustration. I have a 56" brick sitting in my living room and no TV.

Thanks in advance,

Darrell

DarrellG

04-17-07, 11:04 PM

It's been over 24 hours and I still haven't gotten a reply from Toshiba. This really sucks. I hope they get me the bulb by the weekend. :(

mc1280

04-18-07, 08:50 AM

i2k

04-18-07, 09:35 AM

hehe sounds like you just want a bigger TV ;)

DarrellG

04-18-07, 10:21 AM

Finally got an email back from Toshiba Customer Service saying the lamp should be here in 5 business days. Will they send me a tracking number or do I just have to wait? I really hope I get this by the weekend. How long does it actually take?

i2k

04-18-07, 10:30 AM

Usually takes 7 days
and there days, are usually business days.

DarrellG

04-18-07, 03:22 PM

Usually takes 7 days
and there days, are usually business days.

Thanks for the reply. I just got an email with my tracking number. It will be here Friday!!!

FYI, if anyone has to email Toshiba Customer Service, put Attn: Scott on the message subject. He is the supervisor there and helped me out.

There was some guy Robert that was no help at all. He sent me the weirdest replies.

cwc123

04-18-07, 03:51 PM

nexyz

04-19-07, 02:15 AM

I've had a 42hm66 for about a month now. I'm really diggin' it but I have an irritating problem that no one seems to know how to fix (if possible). I have a PS3 hooked up via HDMI and everytime I start a game or DVD the screen flickers off and on non-stop. If I bring up the Toshiba menu or if I switch to TV mode and then back again it stops. This is slowly starting to drive me crazy. Everyone I talk to can't give me a straight answer as to why it happens. Any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated. THANX in advance.

JJacobs

04-19-07, 10:31 AM

since this thread is MASSIVE i didn't read every thread in reguards to my question, but here it goes...

i'm using an OTA antenna to get my HD signal, everything was fine for about 3 months, now all i get is sound and a black screen. the channel numbers and volume controls still come up, just no picture. when i switch over to analog channels, it works fine. is my tuner apparently busted?

*edit*
forgot to mention everything still works fine off the components, the 360 is running 720p great...which leads me more towards the HD tuner... :(

*edit2*
well i did the factory default restart and now it works...so nevermind! lol

clamwc

04-19-07, 01:00 PM

Great thread guys. I wish all this info would have been available before I purchased my TV in Sept 2005. My original lamp lasted just over 1 year. If I would have known that the lamps were going to fail so prematurely compared with Toshiba's figures I would have settled for the 42'' Panasonic plasma. Toshiba was gracious enough to send me a replacement bulb for free. If this lamp only lasts a year I will be replacing the bulb and selling the TV. Could someone please tell me what the procedure is to enter the service menu on a 52HM84? I've seen instructions for other Toshiba series TVs listed but not the 84 specifically. Thanks.

waited18years

04-19-07, 03:14 PM

clamwc

04-19-07, 04:07 PM

Sorry I couldn't find that on my own and had to ask. Thanks so much!!!

flammer27

04-19-07, 08:37 PM

I own a 46hmx85 and started having problems in january (after a year). There was a loud noise going on and off (like if a fan was not working good). I had an appointment with one of the authorized service shop from toshiba and the day before the appointment, the lamp blew. When the guy got here, he changed the lamp and then replaced the cooling fan for the lamp (the biggest one). Didn't fix the noise problem but...

SINCE THEN i get this horrible picture especially in the background of the scenes (where there is no focus). The pictures looks fuzzy or snowy (like dancing pixels going all around !). It shows mostly on dark scenes.

Then they changed the whole light engine unit. It fixed the noise problem (it was probably the color wheel, they said) but did not fix the noisy/snowy picture problem. It does it on every signal source and every connections. They changed the light engine unit for a 2nd time but it didn't change a thing. They ended up saying that the picture was normal. No way!

It doesn't seem easy to have the tv replaced by a new one, so now Toshiba is offering me to take the tv to their technician as long as i sign an undertaking form. But, will they be able to fix my issue? For how long am i going to be tvless? Somebody ever had that king of problem so i can tell them what's going wrong with the tv?

here's a picture that gives an idea of the problem

DarrellG

04-20-07, 09:24 AM

mirwin101

04-20-07, 10:20 AM

So as I said before, the Toshiba Certified Refurb 56HM195 didn't work when I got it. I called Customer Service and they said based on the problems I was having, it was the lamp. So they sent me a new lamp which will be here today. I took the old lamp out last night and it looks like brand new. It's not "popped" or shattered at all. Is it possible that my problem may not be the lamp? Are there other problems that will throw the same code as the blown lamp? I'm getting kinda nervous that this new lamp won't solve my problem. Is it possible that maybe something is wrong with the lamp that I can't see?

Based on what I've read here and on other boards it could be that your lamp ballast board needs to be replaced. I have a similar issue where my TV flashes the green light like when the lamp is bad. Except my TV will eventually turn on after several attempts and then works great. I've ordered a replacement lamp ballast but it won't arrive until Monday.

DarrellG

04-20-07, 02:17 PM

wnwrichard

04-20-07, 02:38 PM

I own a 46HM95 HD television and it is giving me some problems. After playing a certain game on XBox 360 I noticed there is some image persistence on the screen. It almost looks like there is something on the lamp, projecting a "stick like" figure onto the screen. This has happened before and it got better but didn't go away. This morning I was playing the same game when the problem returned, to the same degree as it did before. Chances are the spot will fade back away, but what is causing this?

Have any of you experienced these problems? Help is much appreciated!

DarrellG

04-20-07, 05:09 PM

Based on what I've read here and on other boards it could be that your lamp ballast board needs to be replaced. I have a similar issue where my TV flashes the green light like when the lamp is bad. Except my TV will eventually turn on after several attempts and then works great. I've ordered a replacement lamp ballast but it won't arrive until Monday.

Yup, it seems like it's the ballast. The lamp didn't work. Now I had to call a Toshiba Certified repair center and they're going to have a tech call me Monday. They say it will take a week to get the new ballast.

Man, this really sucks. I have the worst luck. I wish I at least got to see the picture on the damn thing.

mirwin101

04-21-07, 10:55 AM

I got home last night to discover that FedEx delivered the new lamp ballast early! I replaced it this morning and the TV is working normally again. Refer to the link below if you are interested in the details.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10356813#post10356813

Julio Bro!

04-21-07, 04:38 PM

[QUOTE=mirwin101]I got home last night to discover that FedEx delivered the new lamp ballast early! I replaced it this morning and the TV is working normally again. Refer to the link below if you are interested in the details.QUOTE]

I congratulate you sir. I expect to do the same thing in a couple of years and your success gives me hope in saving a few hundreds when the day comes.

Well done.

LR6AGB001

04-22-07, 12:47 PM

Does anyone know how to access the service menu for the 52HMX84? I understand that overscan is unrepairable on this set but the least I could do is center the image properly.

daviddoel

04-23-07, 11:07 AM

sparrow_69

04-23-07, 11:37 AM

I'm having the exact same noise problems. It's ridiculous. I hope I can get it replaced entirely.

I have a 52hmx85 and have the exact same "noise" problem. I spoke to Michael at The Laser Video Experience (ISF calibrator) and says its something that affects all dlp tvs, to one extent or another. I also only noticed it after having the tv for several months. It shows up as "dancing" or swirling balls on dark backgrounds. On black backgrounds, the "balls" are green. There really isn't much that can be done about it. Michael suggested to calibrate the tv's brightness, as well as not sitting too close. If the brightness is set too high, you will always see the swirling on black backgrounds. My tv's brightness is set to 42ish on low power. I cannot see the "balls" on black backgrounds, but it does still show up on dark colors. Not much else that can be done about it. I had the same WTF reaction when I first noticed it. It actually took a while to see the swirls. I first noticed while playing dead rising on x360 because I had cranked up the brightness to be able to see well at night.

sparrow_69

04-23-07, 11:51 AM

I own the 46HM95 and am really dissappointed! I've been getting small looking to be dust spots on the screen, which appear to be under the screen. I called best buy warrenty service and they sent someone out to check it out. Well the light engine looks to be bad or dirty. This the second light engine that needs to be replaced the first one went completely after only owing the set for two months!!!! and the bulb blew during the NBA playoffs last year. For the money I spent this product has been completely unacceptable!!!! Apperantely from reading this and similair forums it's only a matter of time before this thing breaks again and I'm without a TV. Now best buy has a 4 repair before they will call the TV a lemon but I feel that these 2 major repairs along with the bulb problems are unacceptable!!!!!I want out now what are my chances if I complain loud and high enough?

FYI... excuse my spelling :)

MC1280: I had the same problem. However, the light engine is not to blame. If there was dust in the light engine, it would show up as large (baseball sized) blemishes on the screen. The problem is actually dust sticking to the inside of the screen. I had a tech come out to take a look. He took off about 10 screws to loosen the front bezel. He then pushed apart the bezel to reveal the interior. There was actually dust bunnies inside my tv after only 3months of use!

What ends up happening is dust gets pulled inside the tv by the fan. On my 52hmx85, there is an air port on the right side of the tv. I don't know why they didn't put some sort of filter. The electronics that need to be cooled are seperate from the screen/mirror section. Unfortunately ,there are 2 small openings at the back that allow dust in from the back of the tv (electronics section) to the front where the screen is. Air/dust actually starts accumulating on top of the mirror, and eventually works its way down. Best thing to do is to open up the bezel and clean off the screen/mirror (albeit very gently, you don't want to scratch anything)

Also, make sure to keep the area around the tv clean. I built a dust collector out of a nylon sock and some plastic moulding to cover the vents on the tv. I was a bit afraid of the tv skyrocketing, but looking at the SM, temps only seem to go up 2 degrees C, so its not too bad. Next time it happens to my tv, I'm cleaning out the inside, as well as blocking the 2 holes allowing dust into the front portion of the tv. There really isn't anything in the front portion to cool, so I don't think it'll be a problem. Also, watch out for plastic specs/paint coming off of the screws. I noticed the screws are painted black. When removed/replaced, there was some small plastic shavings that fell into the tv. About a month after the tech came, I noticed another spot on the tv, but this time much darker. It turned out to be a small plastic shaving from removing/putting screws back. I opened the front bezel myself, cleaned it out and made sure to clean off any shaving from the screw holes, as well as any paint coming off from screws.

Hope this helps with your problem. If you have any issues, send me a PM and i'll help you out. BTW, the tech told me that opening up the bezel does not void the warranty :) Also, take a look at another one of my post's here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9552558#post9552558
There is a diagram showing how the dust is getting into the tv. The diagram is looking at the tv from the right side (where the air vent is).

sparrow_69

04-23-07, 11:56 AM

MC1280: I had the same problem. However, the light engine is not to blame. If there was dust in the light engine, it would show up as large (baseball sized) blemishes on the screen. The problem is actually dust sticking to the inside of the screen. I had a tech come out to take a look. He took off about 10 screws to loosen the front bezel. He then pushed apart the bezel to reveal the interior. There was actually dust bunnies inside my tv after only 3months of use!

What ends up happening is dust gets pulled inside the tv by the fan. On my 52hmx85, there is an air port on the right side of the tv. I don't know why they didn't put some sort of filter. The electronics that need to be cooled are seperate from the screen/mirror section. Unfortunately ,there are 2 small openings at the back that allow dust in from the back of the tv (electronics section) to the front where the screen is. Air/dust actually starts accumulating on top of the mirror, and eventually works its way down. Best thing to do is to open up the bezel and clean off the screen/mirror (albeit very gently, you don't want to scratch anything)

Also, make sure to keep the area around the tv clean. I built a dust collector out of a nylon sock and some plastic moulding to cover the vents on the tv. I was a bit afraid of the tv skyrocketing, but looking at the SM, temps only seem to go up 2 degrees C, so its not too bad. Next time it happens to my tv, I'm cleaning out the inside, as well as blocking the 2 holes allowing dust into the front portion of the tv. There really isn't anything in the front portion to cool, so I don't think it'll be a problem. Also, watch out for plastic specs/paint coming off of the screws. I noticed the screws are painted black. When removed/replaced, there was some small plastic shavings that fell into the tv. About a month after the tech came, I noticed another spot on the tv, but this time much darker. It turned out to be a small plastic shaving from removing/putting screws back. I opened the front bezel myself, cleaned it out and made sure to clean off any shaving from the screw holes, as well as any paint coming off from screws.

Hope this helps with your problem. If you have any issues, send me a PM and i'll help you out. BTW, the tech told me that opening up the bezel does not void the warranty :) Also, take a look at another one of my post's here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9552558#post9552558
There is a diagram showing how the dust is getting into the tv. The diagram is looking at the tv from the right side (where the air vent is).

Almost forgot: turn the tv on when you open up the front. You'll be able to see where the dust is exactly. Use some lens paper or cloth. I used a damp lens cloth and it worked great without scratching. It also helps to keep the static at bay.

DarrellG

04-23-07, 02:11 PM

So now that the lamp isn't working, Toshiba told me to call a Toshiba Certified Service Center. I called them and they are saying it's the light engine. They're ordering a new one for me and hopefully it will be in by the end of the week.

GM6

04-23-07, 03:00 PM

I have a 52hmx85 and have the exact same "noise" problem. I spoke to Michael at The Laser Video Experience (ISF calibrator) and says its something that affects all dlp tvs, to one extent or another. I also only noticed it after having the tv for several months. It shows up as "dancing" or swirling balls on dark backgrounds. On black backgrounds, the "balls" are green. There really isn't much that can be done about it. Michael suggested to calibrate the tv's brightness, as well as not sitting too close. If the brightness is set too high, you will always see the swirling on black backgrounds. My tv's brightness is set to 42ish on low power. I cannot see the "balls" on black backgrounds, but it does still show up on dark colors. Not much else that can be done about it. I had the same WTF reaction when I first noticed it. It actually took a while to see the swirls. I first noticed while playing dead rising on x360 because I had cranked up the brightness to be able to see well at night.
This is called Macroblocking.

It's a visual compression artifact, a byproduct of video compression. You will see it from video sources like DVDs and Satelite TV.

Rear Projection tvs like DLPs unfortuneatly enchance macroblocking and this is why you see it so much. It's not the fault of the TV for it being there, but it is the fault of the TV for the extent of macroblocking that happens. You will see this effect for any source that is compressed, and yes, other types of TV's handle macroblocking better.

-Gagan, Oppo Digital

LR6AGB001

04-23-07, 06:09 PM

Thanks to sparrow_69 I entered the service menu and centered the image properly, boy was I really nervous. It was interesting to find that some settings did not match that in the SM but like the saying goes, "if it's not broken then don't fix it." :rolleyes:
I did notice that the display has a slight tilt to the left, anyone care to mention if this can be adjusted? If so under what name does it go by in the SM?

Btw, sparrow_69 thanks a million.

sparrow_69

04-23-07, 07:51 PM

This is called Macroblocking.

It's a visual compression artifact, a byproduct of video compression. You will see it from video sources like DVDs and Satelite TV.

Rear Projection tvs like DLPs unfortuneatly enchance macroblocking and this is why you see it so much. It's not the fault of the TV for it being there, but it is the fault of the TV for the extent of macroblocking that happens. You will see this effect for any source that is compressed, and yes, other types of TV's handle macroblocking better.

-Gagan, Oppo Digital

Actually, it isn't macroblocking. I know what macroblocking looks like from watching digital cable channels that are overly compressed, or when there is a lot of movement on the screen. Furthermore, this "noise" still shows up when there is no input and the screen is blank. This noise is made up of small green swirling balls, and not of "blocks". The noise is generated by the dlp technology and was confirmed by an ISF calibrator. I am inclined to believe him :)

After I started noticing this noise on my tv, I went to best buy and took a look at other dlps. I did notice it on a Samsung, although on that particular model, it wasn't as bad. Its definitely NOT macroblocking though.

Don1959

04-23-07, 11:20 PM

This noise is made up of small green swirling balls, and not of "blocks". The noise is generated by the dlp technology and was confirmed by an ISF calibrator. I am inclined to believe him

Since everything you see on a DLP is generated by DLP technology I guess this confirmation could be considered sort of correct, but I have had DLPs since 2003 and I have never seen what you are describing, so I find it hard to believe that this "noise" is normal for DLP technology

Don

enmoco

04-24-07, 07:56 AM

Superman1180

04-24-07, 12:18 PM

First I'd like to say I've been a AVS Forum reader for a long time and have thoroughly enjoyed reading 100s of member's posts on a range of topics.

However, I am experiencing a problem with my Toshiba 62HM95 HDTV and would like some input from the wealth of experienced users in this forum.

I have had the TV since the fall of 2005 and it has been a terrific set. No complaints at all. Until about a month ago when I noticed a faint flickering on my screen. To be more specific the flickering seems to be constant and stretches horizontally across the entire screen in several different places.

The flicker is faint enough that when watching movement or action scenes on HD cable or playing a video game you can't notice it, but when you look at a static or "motionless" scene with a solid color background you can notice it.

Would this be an indication of my bulb going out? I've read a few other posts that would indicate this flickering is symptomatic of a bulb on its last legs but I wanted to see if there were any other opinions out there.

Any input would be appreciated.

DarrellG

04-24-07, 01:58 PM

GT1Boy

04-24-07, 02:25 PM

DarrellG

04-24-07, 03:13 PM

DarrellG, give the Toshiba Customer Solutions Manager listed here (http://data.middletennessee.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bid=33004070) a call. He will take care of you. You can check out my posts in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=597364) about the backordered LE issue.

Thanks alot man. I called him. Basically he said that the light engine says it's on backorder for months but it may come in sooner. If it's not here in a week, I'm calling him and telling him I want a new TV.

enmoco

04-24-07, 05:00 PM

OK, I'm in a serious predicament here. For those that don't want to scroll back, I'll summarize for you.

Got a Toshiba Refurbished 56HM195 from ebay and it was DOA. Called Toshiba and they said based on the lights flashing, they thought it was the lamp. They sent me the new lamp and it didn't work. They told me to call a Toshiba Tech. Called them and they said it's the light engine. They have to order me a light engine but now they're telling me it's on backorder and they aren't sure when it will be in.

I am now without a TV. A TV I paid over $1000 for and it never worked. To say I'm furious is an understatement. I feel like I'm getting treated like a second class citizen because it's a refurb. It shouldn't matter because it is a Toshiba Refurb and they should stand behind their products no matter what. I could see if I had it for a few months and it stopped working but for it never to work is ridiculous. I have seen some people that have gotten replacement TVs in this thread and on these forums. Do you have a specific name of a person I can speak with? Any advice?

I already planned to have the Delahoya Mayweather fight next week and have told people about it already. I am fuming.

Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.Not enough info for anyone to advise you correctly. Did you buy from an individual on ebay...retailer/jobber?Doa?? What did the seller tell you? Did you call them?What,if any,warranty did they advertise,one year mfg's,six mos? What have you got in writing that says this is not a used display.Any?Toshiba generally,as a rule,has you take out old lamp,advise them if blown, before just sending one. You called an authorized Toshiba shop,they tell you,without coming to your house (in home warranty),that the light engine is bad,and you didn't question that? If so, what was their explanation,or advise? We,here,cannot possibly help you without some accurate details of your purchase.Toshiba is one of the better large mfgs. to deal with,fairly. To just want someone to advise you how you can get a replacement set from Toshiba is unrealistic,given the limited amount of details you posted here....Good luck... :)

sparrow_69

04-24-07, 05:28 PM

Balderdash......people believed Jim Jones too..... :cool:

I have invited Michael TLV to comment on the subject, since he knows significantly more about the technology than I do. I am a bit bewildered myself!

enmoco

04-24-07, 05:37 PM

....The noise is generated by the dlp technology....Bewildering statement indeed... :)

sparrow_69

04-24-07, 06:09 PM

I have seen the same "noise" on a dlp television at a BB, so I'm inclined to believe Michael's statement. I guess we'll see what he says. Has no one else experienced this? It seems I never really noticed it when I purchased/looking at the tv in the store... I just tuned into the fact it was there sometime after.

Bauer

04-24-07, 06:35 PM

I bought a 62MX195 and was very happy with it until, when I tried to watch HD off the air, the picture was consistently distorted. A Toshiba-certified repairman said that, after various tests, that it was a serious hardware problem that required replacing certain aspects of the hardware.
Toshiba could not give us the said parts until possibly a year or so later, so Toshiba suggested that we have the TV replaced by the store we bought it from.
The store did not have a 62MX195 and, because Toshiba discontinued that model, the store said we would have to settle with a TV with similar or greater features. According to their website, the only Toshiba DLP 62+" TV is a 65HM167. As of now, I have 30 days to exchange the 62MX with something else.

Questions:

1. Have any of you been in similar situations?

2. I have looked into the 65HM167, but I have not seen the TV in action before. What do think about your own 65HM, in terms of pros and cons? Is there any obvious flaws in the 65HM that you are aware of?

2a. Does the 65HM have similar picture quality to the 62MX? I am very pleased with the 62MX's picture. It is beautiful and I would desire only a TV with just as good of picture.

DarrellG

04-24-07, 07:17 PM

Not enough info for anyone to advise you correctly. Did you buy from an individual on ebay...retailer/jobber?Doa?? What did the seller tell you? Did you call them?What,if any,warranty did they advertise,one year mfg's,six mos? What have you got in writing that says this is not a used display.Any?Toshiba generally,as a rule,has you take out old lamp,advise them if blown, before just sending one. You called an authorized Toshiba shop,they tell you,without coming to your house (in home warranty),that the light engine is bad,and you didn't question that? If so, what was their explanation,or advise? We,here,cannot possibly help you without some accurate details of your purchase.Toshiba is one of the better large mfgs. to deal with,fairly. To just want someone to advise you how you can get a replacement set from Toshiba is unrealistic,given the limited amount of details you posted here....Good luck... :)

Sorry for the lack of info.

1.Did you buy from an individual on ebay?

Yes, the sellers name is national_consolidators and they have a website, www.refurbelectronics.com The item details clearly state that as long as it isn't damaged during shipping, you have to deal with the manufacturer for warranty repairs.

2. Doa?

Sorry DOA=Dead On Arrival

3. What did the seller tell you? Did you call them?What,if any,warranty did they advertise,one year mfg's,six mos?

I have a 90 day warranty from Toshiba since it's a refurb. And I have bad luck too. There aren't many people with issues like mine according to the ebay feedback. His feedback is 99.9%.

4. What have you got in writing that says this is not a used display.Any?

It came with the paper work stating it was a Toshiba Certified Refurb. Toshiba has verified this info through the serial number.

5. Toshiba generally,as a rule,has you take out old lamp,advise them if blown, before just sending one. You called an authorized Toshiba shop,they tell you,without coming to your house (in home warranty),that the light engine is bad,and you didn't question that? If so, what was their explanation,or advise?

I called Toshiba the day I got it (4/16) and told them it didn't work. They went through some steps with me and determined by the lights that were flashing that it was the lamp. Toshiba sent me a lamp and I got it Friday (4/20) and that didn't work. I called them back and told them and they gave me the number of a Toshiba Shop. I called them and told them and they said if the lamp didn't fix the problem then they have to replace the light engine. They said that if the lamp didn't fix the problem, the only other thing that would fix it is to replace the whole light engine.

Basically, I just want to be able to watch the TV I paid for and it seems to me that every time I mention it's a refurb, I get the "Oh, it's a refurb?" line. That shouldn't matter IMO because it's a Toshiba Certified Refurb which is supposed to be tested before it leaves the facility. I have been without a TV for 2 weeks now and they're saying it could take another 4-8 weeks to get the light engine. That is completely unacceptable. I haven't even been able to turn this thing on once.

DoctaC

04-24-07, 07:50 PM

Ummm, I was looking to buy a 50HM67 pretty soon, but after reading all the problems in this thread I'm having second thoughts, should I go for something else? LCD?

DoctaC

04-24-07, 08:51 PM

I also forgot to mention I went to check it out, and it looked great, the picture quality drew me away from the 42 inch LCD I was looking at...

I know this is the newest model of the 50 inch Toshiba DLP, do you think the problems are fixed?

Michael TLV

04-24-07, 09:29 PM

sparrow_69

04-24-07, 10:37 PM

Superman1180

04-25-07, 11:38 AM

Update from my earlier post about the flickering issue. I went ahead and pulled out my bulb to check it out for any possible issues. (I was careful plus I wanted to know how I would change it out anyway when the time came) It was simple to do and I couldn't notice any problems from looking at it.

I then put it back in place and turned the TV on. Still flickering. I'm puzzled. Could the bulb be going out or might there be something wrong with the light engine? At this point I'm grasping at straws as my knowledge on DLP TV's or the 62HM95 model inparticular is limited when it comes to troubleshooting display issues.

Anyone have thoughtsinput in this situation?

LR6AGB001

04-25-07, 01:20 PM

I had the same problem in the past and when the repairman stopped by to inspect my 52HMX84 DLP he went ahead and ordered a new ballast. It took 2-3 days to arrive at the shop and this visit was just last summer. He found it strange that the set needed a lamp replacement often. I've had 3 lamp replacements (warranty saved me a bundle) total and so far since the last visit it's been working fine.

Superman1180

04-25-07, 02:27 PM

LR6AGB001,

In your response regarding the ballast, were you referring to my issue or the other issues mentioned regarding the DOA TV or the distorted picture?

Daavo

04-25-07, 03:27 PM

waited18years

04-25-07, 03:30 PM

gosawx

04-25-07, 04:21 PM

I am newbie to DLP but a friend of mine is looking at a Toshiba 56". I told him that the concern if any would be the rainbow effect but wasn't really sure of its impact. What's the deal with the rainbow effect? My understanding is that some people will see it and some wont - is that correct- or is it something that is always there and it just doesn't bother some?

That's correct:

1) you see it
2) you don't
3) you can make yourself see it if you try (that's me)

It usually appears in dark areas with action...I see it when I use my peripheral vision and kinda glance over. There is no impact whatsoever if you don't see it

Superman1180

04-26-07, 03:33 PM

Does the flickering stop/reduce if the lamp in in high brightness mode?

Just before the previous lamp in my 62HM84 failed it grew a bit dimmer an started to flicker in low bright mode.

Thanks for the response. I currently have the TV in High Brightness mode. The flickering is the same regardless if I have it in low or high mode.

Bauer

04-27-07, 08:33 PM

Does the 65HM167 a good TV? I want some people who own it to give me their opinions, please. Information concerning this TV is surprisingly scant

Pictures more than welcome.

LR6AGB001

04-28-07, 06:56 AM

LR6AGB001,

In your response regarding the ballast, were you referring to my issue or the other issues mentioned regarding the DOA TV or the distorted picture?

The response was in regards to the flickering. It was really annoying, I've gone through quite a few lamps and before each of 'em died out they would flicker. After replacing the ballast I don't have this issue anymore. According to the service menu I've already used up 5000 hours, though I don't know how accurate it is. I can't say for certain if it automatically resets itself whenever a lamp is replaced.

dangler

04-28-07, 10:00 AM

gosawx

04-28-07, 11:26 AM

Hello to all ! New here ! :)
I have recently purchased a toshiba 72hm196.
I am rather ignorant to say the least on this AV stuff but was told that the factory setting need to be changed(out of the box settings)
I am looking around for some general guideline settings for my new set.
and also thinking that I want to purchase a hd dvd player to go along with the new set.
Can maybe someone here point me in the right direction ?

Thank you for any help !

Set the PQ the way it looks best to you, and definitely get an HD DVD player if you like the movie selection. They are generally set VEY bright out of the box for showroom use, and that can be toned-down for most home application

You CANNOT get better PQ than HD DVD. It's awesome, plus you can get a calibratin disc in HD DVD to make the picture as good as it can get

kerm360

04-28-07, 12:02 PM

Does the 65HM167 a good TV? I want some people who own it to give me their opinions, please. Information concerning this TV is surprisingly scant

Pictures more than welcome.

AWESOME in my opinion. The size / price value is undeniable. After "researching" for over six months, I ultimately chose this set over the Samsung and JVC; better picture, better cabinet, better performance.

flammer27

04-29-07, 12:30 AM

Greetings

Joe Kane's Samsung DLP front projector is known for having the least of this type of granular effect ... especially more noticeable in the dark material. (10K)

It has nothing to do with TV source material or DVDs. It is a technology weakness just like rainbows (DLP) and discoloration (LCD). You can see it on test patterns from signal generators as well.

With every passing generation of DLP set, the effect is lessened.

Granular effect is most noticeable on the less expensive units.

I believe that this granular effect is a "technologie weakness" has you say, but how come everybody just noticed it a few months after having their tv's? I can say that my 46HMX85 just looked great the first year but when the problem started (see my post # 7203) it was just another world (still is). I could see it on a test generator has you say. But the granular effect was showing less on the test generator than from my dvd (oppo) or cable box signal (even on HD channels). I did a comparison with my tv and my friend's tv which is a 52HMX85 whith a movie (SAWIII) where i spoted some scenes where the granular effects is showing the most. His tv was much much more better looking (showing granular effect a little bit but i had to be attentive to it). I don't believe it's only something with the brightness settings, maybe some part of the tv got weakened with the time or some electronics board input/output got decalibrated ? I'm starting to thing it will never come back the way it used to be.

Bauer

04-29-07, 03:21 AM

Don1959

04-29-07, 12:35 PM

So we just got the 65HM167 that Toshiba gave us to replace our 62MX195. the 65 looks HORRIBLE in comparison to the 62. The picture is blurry and it's made out of cheap plastic.

I see this as bs, considering that they were to give us a good or better TV. Oh well, I guess this is what happens when you rush into something like this. We should have put more research into this, maybe...

Well this is a little disturbing... I am in the process of having my 56HM195 replaced.. and I was hoping to get a 57HM167 vs a 62HM196... after reading this I am not too sure which way I should go....

How do you have the 65HM167 setup.... what mode are you viewing in? Have you done a basic calibration yet?

Don

Bauer

04-29-07, 01:48 PM

I don't think that a basic calibration and the mode I am viewing in is the problem. I have tried several different setups, but all of them do not solve the bad picture.

This picture is not the same quality as the 62MX195. I am not an expert, but I know what looks good and what doesn't. The 65HM167 looks pathetic in comparison. Detail and sharp edges are gone, all replaced by blurry visuals. I have played an Xbox 360 in 720p on the 62MX. 1080i on the 65HM does not look near as good... it looks like 480p.

Not to say that this is a bad TV, but it's just not up to par with the 62MX. At all. My advice to you, Don, is to not trust Toshiba. I do not know about either of the TVs you are looking into, but I suggest you try to get a lot of information on the TV; but more importantly, get some hands-on time. See how it compares to the TV you own that is being replaced.