Not to say that this is a bad TV, but it's just not up to par with the 62MX. At all. My advice to you, Don, is to not trust Toshiba. I do not know about either of the TVs you are looking into, but I suggest you try to get a lot of information on the TV; but more importantly, get some hands-on time. See how it compares to the TV you own that is being replaced.

Thanks for the reply and for the advice.... I live in Canada and the new 167s are not here yet, so I can't do any hands-on to compare to 196s.

I am going to hold off as long as I can until I can see one of the 167s.

Thanks

Don

Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum. I was wondering what some of you thought about the toshiba 50hm67 model. I've read that some had issues with the previous model 50hm66. Can anyone give me any info on the latest model? Bad or good. Thanks in advance!

H.N.

So we just got the 65HM167 that Toshiba gave us to replace our 62MX195. the 65 looks HORRIBLE in comparison to the 62. The picture is blurry and it's made out of cheap plastic.

I see this as bs, considering that they were to give us a good or better TV. Oh well, I guess this is what happens when you rush into something like this. We should have put more research into this, maybe...This is not at all my experience with the 57HM167 and others in the 2007 Toshiba thread who have the 65HM167. If your picture looks blurry and you can't improve on it, you likely have a defective unit.

I’m probably going to answer my own question but I have a 52HMX84 (love it after 1.5 years of use w/ no issues) which is basically considered a monitor dlp. I was thinking of discontinuing my Comcast HD service for the summer as the prices are ridiculous and plus there really isn’t anything on during the summer besides baseball, oh well.

Now if I want to watch basic cable and pay Comcast for the basic fee (14.99 I think) will I still need an STB to convey the cable signal to my dlp since I don’t have a tuner? Trying to save the fee for that and wanted to see if it was possible to run the coax straight to the dlp. Or if I want to completely get rid of Comcast, could I or will it be hard for me to hook up an antenna to my dlp? Not sure if I can if I don’t have a tuner. Thanks for the help.

This is not at all my experience with the 57HM167 and others in the 2007 Toshiba thread who have the 65HM167. If your picture looks blurry and you can't improve on it, you likely have a defective unit.
There's a 2007 HM thread? Christ, this place is confusing.

All right, it is not a bad picture, considering that the 65HM167 appears to be a more "budget" model. It is just the fact that the 62MX195 has much better picture. I say blurry because it is when compared to our previous TV. The 65 also seems to have much more SSE and blacks are noticeably less black than the 62; and considering it is made out of very cheap plastic and has pathetic speakers, I believe that we were given a TV that does not match the quality of the 62MX195.

But heck, maybe the 65HM is defective. I almost hope so, because maybe the picture can match the 62MX. I don't care about the plastic and "speakers", it's all about the picture. But honestly, I doubt it. The picture isn't bad, it still can look good. But as good as the TV it replaced? Ha, nope.

The HM has always been a step down (including speakers) from the MX, but aside from the color management system in the MX, they share the same PQ capability. The 2007 Toshibas dropped some of the 2006 features (e.g., cable card, POP, TV Guide) and picked up 3 1080p HDMI inputs, but still share the same TALEN engine and the same "Xtreme BLAC" technology as the 2006 HM and MX models. The 2007's also feature 14-bit processing. This isn't to argue with you; seeing is believing and you have seen both the 195 and 167 models. One thing to keep in mind is that Toshiba DLP's, more so than other brands, really don't reach their full potential unless calibrated.

The similar specs was the reason that we allowed the 65HM167 into our house. Technology only improves, doesn't it? I think Toshiba downgraded their products in order to sell them cheaper to a wider market. Which is fine, but when you replace a TV with a worse one... there's a problem. A problem we have already started fighting.

I didn't calibrate the 62MX at all. Right out of the box, all I did was make the lamp be in low power mode. I'm sure I did mess around with the color settings, but I don't recall seeing a drastically sharper, clearer, more detailed picture with less SSE and darker blacks. The 62MX already had a pretty damn good picture, so I didn't mess with it too much; just get it looking acceptable and be done with it. We're not experts, we just wanted a good TV.

Update:

The light engine will be here tomorrow!!!

I guess they were right when they said it always says 4-8 weeks but usually takes less time. I should be getting the light engine put in on Thursday and I'll finally be able to watch the TV that has been sitting in my living room for 2 weeks.

Has anyone replaced a light engine before? The shop I'm dealing with got a horrible review on yahoo.com and I can already tell their customer service sucks. I think I might have to just go over there to pick the part up and put it in myself if it's simple enough.

Update:

The shop I'm dealing with got a horrible review on yahoo.com and I can already tell their customer service sucks. I think I might have to just go over there to pick the part up and put it in myself if it's simple enough.

If it was hand picked by Toshiba, I would expect it to be the worst. I now get angry every time I turn my set on. The good part is, I spend more time with my family.

Thank you Toshiba

Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum. I was wondering what some of you thought about the toshiba 50hm67 model. I've read that some had issues with the previous model 50hm66. Can anyone give me any info on the latest model? Bad or good. Thanks in advance!

H.N.

Here's what I wrote about this unit in another thread:

I recently bought this unit from my local CC store. I noticed that the display units had a definite case of the "sparklies." These were not the kind caused by the screen materials, but were similar to screen noise. They were not visible on other brands of DLP TV (such as Sony), but the Toshiba image had such "pop" and sharpness that I bought it. When I got my unit home, I noticed the same sparklies, but they disappeared when I turned off all noise reduction.

I was pleased with the picture, but I noticed a faint, gray donut near the center of the screen. Toshiba support told me that the set needed repair (their warranty offers in-home repair). However, I decided to haul the set back to CC and exchange it.

The new set is nothing short of spectacular. There are no sparklies, even with noise reduction enabled, and it is bang on in terms of color balance and saturation (in film mode). The contrast and image sharpness are outstanding and compare well to my 1080p projector (a Sony Pearl)--pretty amazing for a sub-$1000 50 inch TV (contrast is, I think actually better).

However, it may be that the QC on this set has some variability. Until I exchanged my unit, I didn't know just how good it could be. I though the sparklies were normal for this set, but it seems that is not necessarily the case.

Brian

First post here, and I was wondering:
How does the quality of the 1080i to 1080p deinterlacer compare to a direct 1080p input (if such had existed) on the 62hm196?

Edit: or more specifically... is there any difference between a 1080p input and a 1080i deinterlacer?

I believe that this granular effect is a "technologie weakness" has you say, but how come everybody just noticed it a few months after having their tv's? I can say that my 46HMX85 just looked great the first year but when the problem started (see my post # 7203) it was just another world (still is). I could see it on a test generator has you say. But the granular effect was showing less on the test generator than from my dvd (oppo) or cable box signal (even on HD channels). I did a comparison with my tv and my friend's tv which is a 52HMX85 whith a movie (SAWIII) where i spoted some scenes where the granular effects is showing the most. His tv was much much more better looking (showing granular effect a little bit but i had to be attentive to it). I don't believe it's only something with the brightness settings, maybe some part of the tv got weakened with the time or some electronics board input/output got decalibrated ? I'm starting to thing it will never come back the way it used to be.


Have you tried adjusting your set's brightness with a test disc (avia or DVE)? My set was initially pretty bright. After calibration, I'm at 44 brightness on low power. Adjusting the brightness helps a good amount with hiding the "noise", especially in dark/black backgrounds. I know it's not the best of solutions, but it seems to be the only one we have at this point. I'm in the same boat.

First post here, and I was wondering:
How does the quality of the 1080i to 1080p deinterlacer compare to a direct 1080p input (if such had existed) on the 62hm196?

Edit: or more specifically... is there any difference between a 1080p input and a 1080i deinterlacer?
I am not the expert on the technical jargon, but I think I understand the basics. The 1080p that is now coming on the Toshiba's would probably be 1080p60 which can be sourced from a newer HD-DVD or Bluray. I understand that the picture would be no better than a 1080i since the reference material (movies) are at 24 fps. So some kind of arranging the data would have to happen either way. Now if you can recieve 1080p24 and can source this at this rate from the HD-DVD (hopefully coming soon) or Blu-ray, then you would see an improvement. So 1080p60 is not really much use at this time as there is not much source material. I do think the PS3 can do 1080p, but haven't heard if this is much better. I'm sure someone can explain this better and there are other threads about this issue.

Well after waiting for over a month, my TV is finally up and running!!!

I definitely need to calibrate it though. And I haven't run through the HD setup on my 8300HD yet either. Picture is grainier than expected on some HD channels, I hope I can fix that. But as soon as the tech changed my light engine and got it working, Planet Earth came on on Discovery HD Theater.

Amazing.

Anyone have problems with the JPG viewer not working on their 46HM95, 52HM95 or 62HM95?

I was able to find these calibration settings online and wow did they work beautifully. The picture is 10X better now. I would have never been able to do this by eye. These settings are for a 62HM196 but they work for my 56HM195 just as well.

http://www.epinions.com/content_289225346692

Anyone have problems with the JPG viewer not working on their 46HM95, 52HM95 or 62HM95?
My 62HM195 will not work with Compact Flash. Tried formatting with FAT & FAT32, doesn't matter. Any other kind of memory card works fine.

Well, I got back from a business trip, hit the on button on my remote for my 52HMX94 and got sound but no picture. I was able to change channels, etc., but no picture. I switched the set off and got the green-red alternating "something wrong with the bulb" message. I pulled the bulb and, sure enough, glass crystals were visible inside the cover glass. I had ordered a new bulb from PartStore.com ($22.87, delivered) a month earlier. The set had been making a bzzzzst sound on start-up and the lips of people in Blu-Ray movies were purple--very weird.

BTW, you don't need to unplug the set. if you do, there go the channel edits!

So, I got 21 months (realistically, about 18) out of the old bulb. The new bulb gave a noticeably better picture immediately. I am far from fussy about picture, but the purple-lips were beginning to get to me <g> and I didn't realize how dim the old bulb was getting until I saw the new one.

I saw that TI has come up with an LED-lit DLP, so that will no doubt be my next set--bulbs are an expensive PIA!

22.87, delivered ? For a new bulb?

22.87, delivered ? For a new bulb?

Come on, just a typo. $222.87, but you can have the burned out one for $22.87, sans case.

Which brings up an interesting point. I disassembled the carrier last night (hey, I'm an engineer and can't help it) and discovered that the bulb itself is self-contained. It has the following labelling on it:

SHP66/Hg (on integral socket, Hg==mercury)
43952 (on plug)
01855122 (barcode on plug)

I did a Google on all the above and was unable to find "just the lamp" although it is called out in the "Toshiba 23587201 Service Kit", which is the whole assembly. Now the question is whether or not the SHP66 shows up in a more common, less expensive, lamp assembly.

hehe was hoping it was a slickdeal somewhere, id be buying 10!

OK, my 52HM94 is acting weird. On my HD channels, channel 787 will for no reason what-so-ever switch to what's showing on 788, but the channel will still be 787 it just shows the picture from 788. Only those 2 channels. I use a cable card through Charter. Could this be the TV? Or, is more likely the Cable company? I suspect the latter, but, just wanna know if anyone else has this problem.

Probably the cable card. The cable card is a total hit or miss, and Toshiba will be glad to make you its lifetime Beta tester. That's what happened to me, I just gave up after 9 months of the most worthless representation of a "reputable" product in my 46 years.

Probably the cable card. The cable card is a total hit or miss, and Toshiba will be glad to make you its lifetime Beta tester. That's what happened to me, I just gave up after 9 months of the most worthless representation of a "reputable" product in my 46 years.

Dude, if you only knew my CableCard story. Thing is about a year ago, they got the CableCard straightened out, it worked flawlessly, last few months this problem shows up.

(see sig. for specs.)

Recently, my picture quality has worsened. On all channels (HD&SD), there is what seems to be like a ghost images of the same picture. It makes the picture quality look almost cartoonish. Very blended image. There is also a fast flicker of light every minute or so.

I thought maybe it was my cable box but , it has been going on for a month now.
No settings were changed before this happened.

I have had my set for a year and a half now and one new bulb.
Also, have the 5 year extended warranty from PC Richard.

Is there something I am overlooking for a fix? Or, do I call Warranty?
Is there a term used for this problem of mine?

Thank you for any assistance in this matter,

very nervous...

Where can I buy a lamp for a Toshiba 56HM195 for the most reasonable price?

FYI,

I found a site that sells service manuals for these TV's.

I have not purchased one so can't vouch for this but hope it can help some!

manualsparadice com

(see sig. for specs.)

Recently, my picture quality has worsened. On all channels (HD&SD), there is what seems to be like a ghost images of the same picture. It makes the picture quality look almost cartoonish. Very blended image. There is also a fast flicker of light every minute or so.

I thought maybe it was my cable box but , it has been going on for a month now.
No settings were changed before this happened.

I have had my set for a year and a half now and one new bulb.
Also, have the 5 year extended warranty from PC Richard.

Is there something I am overlooking for a fix? Or, do I call Warranty?
Is there a term used for this problem of mine?

Thank you for any assistance in this matter,

very nervous...Just to rule out any temporary problem with the software in the set or cable box, the first thing to try is to unplug them to force a full reset. I would try the cable box first.

OK, my 52HM94 is acting weird. On my HD channels, channel 787 will for no reason what-so-ever switch to what's showing on 788, but the channel will still be 787 it just shows the picture from 788. Only those 2 channels. I use a cable card through Charter. Could this be the TV? Or, is more likely the Cable company? I suspect the latter, but, just wanna know if anyone else has this problem.

I've something similar happen on my set (52HM94) before but had attributed it to the cable provider or STB. Usually occurs around the time they are adding HD channels to the line-up. I unplug the STB overnight and that usually clears it up. It's happened 3-4 times in 2 years that I recall. Not sure what to tell you regarding the CC though.

When did Toshiba's products become crap? I've been without use of my 52HM94 for 10 days now and I'm increasingly amazed at the poor quality of the product and the customer service. My set is 20 months old and needs $600 worth of work. Of course, that work is guaranteed for only 90 days. For a $2,000 TV to last 20 months, that's $100/month. I don't think I got that value from it. Now they're telling me that it's $200/month for the repair? I fully expect that it'll fail shortly after the 3 months because it seems to crap. My old Toshiba TVs and DVD players were hauled around, moved from house to house, and never gave me a problem. This new one just sits there, doesn't hardly get physically touched, and it falls apart in 20 months?

Worse than that is the service. I called the support people to tell them what it was doing, so they say it's the bulb. I order the bulb and wait. After a few days, the bulb arrives -- you guessed it -- and doesn't solve the problem. So, I call them back and they say to call the service center. I tell everyone this is not under warranty and they say they'll just diagnose the problem and give me a quote. It'd be nice if works that way, they demanded $90 for the service call when they were ready to leave. What do you get for $90 you might ask? They look at it and verify that the lights are blinking like I said they were. It was exactly as I described over the phone. They barely touched it, except maybe to push the power button once, and then to lean over the back to get the model number. I'm pretty sure I could have done all of that myself.

So, now that I'm down $300 and staring at another $600, I can't figure out why I'm dealing with Toshiba. I'm leaning toward returning the bulb, disputing the "service call" with my credit card company, selling my other Toshiba equipment on ebay to raise funds for a real product. I've already told my mom and step-dad to not get a Toshiba this weekend since they were planning on getting a HDTV with the Memorial day sales and had previously been impressed with my home theater setup.

Any suggestions on a reputable electronics brand? I've never had much luck with extended warranties on cars or electronics or even home warranties. It seems they don't have failures that are covered, or the warranty work causes more issues than it fixed (stresses other components and they fail), or even the warranty company goes out of business. It looked like Vizio offers manufacturer's extended warranty right on their website, so I'm leaning toward a plasma, but I have no idea what issues they'll possibly encounter. Thanks, Scott

Just to rule out any temporary problem with the software in the set or cable box, the first thing to try is to unplug them to force a full reset. I would try the cable box first.

Originally Posted by extacy1375
(see sig. for specs.)

Recently, my picture quality has worsened. On all channels (HD&SD), there is what seems to be like a ghost images of the same picture. It makes the picture quality look almost cartoonish. Very blended image. There is also a fast flicker of light every minute or so.

I thought maybe it was my cable box but , it has been going on for a month now.
No settings were changed before this happened.

I have had my set for a year and a half now and one new bulb.
Also, have the 5 year extended warranty from PC Richard.

Is there something I am overlooking for a fix? Or, do I call Warranty?
Is there a term used for this problem of mine?

Thank you for any assistance in this matter,

very nervous...

Just to rule out any temporary problem with the software in the set or cable box, the first thing to try is to unplug them to force a full reset. I would try the cable box first.


UPDATE-----
I have tried for the reboot of both but still having the same problem?

I guess i have to call my extended warranty. TO AVOID getting scammed by them, does my problem have a name or do you know what particular part is causing my problem.

Originally Posted by extacy1375
(see sig. for specs.)

UPDATE-----
I have tried for the reboot of both but still having the same problem?

I guess i have to call my extended warranty. TO AVOID getting scammed by them, does my problem have a name or do you know what particular part is causing my problem.
Have you tried a different input source? Does this happen with your xbox?

If so, I would remove and inspect the bulb (with it cool and set unplugged).

If the bulb is causing the problem, it will more than likely have a bubble on the glass of the element. You could try to take a digital picture of the bulb and post it if you are not sure. Here is an example of a bad bulb.

What Is The Difference Between Toshiba 72mx196 And Mitsubishiwd-73732? Which Is Better?

2. I have looked into the 65HM167, but I have not seen the TV in action before. What do think about your own 65HM, in terms of pros and cons? Is there any obvious flaws in the 65HM that you are aware of?

2a. Does the 65HM have similar picture quality to the 62MX? I am very pleased with the 62MX's picture. It is beautiful and I would desire only a TV with just as good of picture.

We've had a 65HM167 for about 3 weeks now and it's possibly the best picture I've ever seen. We replaced a 61" Hitachi Ultravision (because we wanted to) that had the best picture I had ever seen in 1998. We bought a 61" Samsung DLP but it had a problem with CC on the S-video input. The store brought a new one and when the installer turned it on, it lasted about 5 seconds. The fan didn't come on. Back to the store and we settled on the Toshiba even though the Samsung had a better picture. In the store. We had the first one for a couple of days and I got it tweaked to satisfy us. When the installer turned on the Toshiba and got it on a HD channel my wife said "don't touch a thiing". It has the best out of the box picture I have ever seen.

Where can I buy a lamp for a Toshiba 56HM195 for the most reasonable price?


I just put two 12V fans similar to these side by side just inside the door of my 56HM195 when I replaced my lamp recently. I'm running both off a 9V 1amp adapter. The fans are powered by my receiver whenever it is on. Don't know if it will hurt or help but I like to troubleshoot.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=259-125

I bought the 50hm66. it doesn't have a vga port for the pc so i bought a dvi to hdmi adapter. as you probably know i am having the overscan issue. can someone tell me how to adjust the tv to compensate. thanks

MEDIUS

I just put two 12V fans similar to these side by side just inside the door of my 56HM195 when I replaced my lamp recently. I'm running both off a 9V 1amp adapter. The fans are powered by my receiver whenever it is on. Don't know if it will hurt or help but I like to troubleshoot.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=259-125

Anybody else ever try this?

I figured I'd jinx myself and chime in again. My 46hm95 is about 1.5 years old. I bought it the week of thanksgiving, 2005. I'm still on the original lamp and just checked my hours and I'm at 3419. At this rate, I'm not going to be able to get a new lamp under the extended 2 years that toshiba gave.

Update from my earlier post about the flickering issue. I went ahead and pulled out my bulb to check it out for any possible issues. (I was careful plus I wanted to know how I would change it out anyway when the time came) It was simple to do and I couldn't notice any problems from looking at it.

I then put it back in place and turned the TV on. Still flickering. I'm puzzled. Could the bulb be going out or might there be something wrong with the light engine? At this point I'm grasping at straws as my knowledge on DLP TV's or the 62HM95 model inparticular is limited when it comes to troubleshooting display issues.

Anyone have thoughtsinput in this situation?

I bought my Toshiba 42HM66 from Sears, plus 5 year warranty. I had a flicker issue, and they replaced the bulb. It wasnt terribly bad, so I have a spare "flicker bulb" when my good bulb goes out... It is most likely just a bad bulb that you have...

I have 62HM196 purchased in Novemeber that I'm very pleased with. The last few days I've noticed lip sync issues only on HD channels broadcast by my cable company, WideopenWest. There are no lip sync issues on SD channels. Is this issue related to a problem with the TV or with the cable company?

Has anyone else encountered this problem? Is there a firmware upgrade to resolve this issue?

I bought a 52HM95 a year and a half ago and have liked it a lot... recently, though, it started to develop 'static' on the picture after being on for a few minutes, like what used to happen when someone would use an electric drill when you were watching an old B&W Television (I'm realizing I'm dating myself here, both the B&W part and the static part, haven't seen that for years and years).

Any ideas what the problem could be? "It's broke" sums it up pretty well but if anybody has a more educated opinion than mine (I don't really have one so that should be easy :) ) I'd appreciate any ammo I can use to defend myself against getting ripped off.

TIA,

Dave

I'm hoping someone in this forum can help me with this Toshiba 46" DLP question. Here are the facts:

-I have a Sony receiver with only two digital audio inputs. (Coax/Optical)
-I have an Oppo DVD Player, Dish Network ViP622 HD-DVR and soon (hopefully) a PS3 all in the mix.
-The Oppo is hooked to the DLP via component and to the receiver via the digital coax.
-With the ViP622 hooked up via HDMI and the PS3 via HDMI, can I simply use the "Digital Audio Out" on my Toshiba DLP to send DD 5.1 audio from whatever input is selected to the receiver via Optical Audio?

Thanks!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i recently got a used TOSHIBA 44NHM84. the picture was freezing randomly while the audio would continue. after reading here and other forums it appeared that the issue was with dmd driver board. i disassembled the whole unit, reseated the color wheel, cleaned the dmd driver board (had a lot of collected dust on it and i thought this was causing the freezing issue)

now i have great picture but the whole display is shifted up by about 2 inches. the focus is great and i did not touch any mirrors inside. if i move the light engine assembly up or down i can get the picture to move on the display but i do not see any way to keep the light engine in new position.

i see that the one of the mirror in the light engine assembly is adjustable with spring loaded screws. would moving one of these mirror center the picture or is it a software correction via the upgrade port.

the light path appears to be
lamp-- light tunnel--color wheel--mirror(adjustable)-- mirror fixed-- dlp chip (via ?prism and lens)-- focus ring-- big mirror on back wall-- front screen

i have the service manual but it does not talk about this issue.

thank you for the help.

I have a 56HM195 and when I turn on the television before turning on anything else, I see that half of the screen(right side ) is lighter than the other side. I notice this a lot when watching DVD's during dark scenes. I've just recently noticed this today. It's pretty much split up the middle. It's really driving me nuts. The bulb has never been replaced since i've owned it. I've had the TV Since Feb 2006. I haven't gone into the service area of the TV to see how many hours the bulb has but i can't imagine it being more than 3000 as i don't use the TV for more than maybe 2-3 hours a day.

Has anyone had this problem before and if so what is the fix or what is causing the problem? The TV is under an extended warranty so i'm not worried. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Over the past few weeks I noted this problem on my 56HM195 too. Set is over 1.5 years old but luckily under Sears ext warranty. For the record, my bulb blew about 3 months ago and got a new one at no-charge.

Noted that my TV has slightly brigher right side vs left side on black scenes or inputs with nothing, just black. Sears was out, changed bulb, no difference. Placed an order for new light engine, of course at no charge.

Has the light engine replacement been a good cure-all for this? Are people getting light engines for the 56hm195?

Purchased 46HM84 May 05..blew bulb April 06...just blew another today! Only wife and I at home..TV is on maybe 30 hours a week....60 would be the occasional max. I did file a complaint on the Toshiba Cust support web site. Probably will not do any good, but at least got complaint on file..

With the ViP622 hooked up via HDMI and the PS3 via HDMI, can I simply use the "Digital Audio Out" on my Toshiba DLP to send DD 5.1 audio from whatever input is selected to the receiver via Optical Audio?


Sadly, TV firmware does not support this kind of connection. The reason is because when the TV recieves the sound it is immediately converted to to 2-channel stereo. The Digital Audio Out is only for ATSC/QAM tuner with Dolby Digital broadcast codec. I hope I answered your question.

--mapper

Sadly, TV firmware does not support this kind of connection. The reason is because when the TV recieves the sound it is immediately converted to to 2-channel stereo. The Digital Audio Out is only for ATSC/QAM tuner with Dolby Digital broadcast codec. I hope I answered your question.

--mapper

I wish the answer was better but it is helpful! :(

Thanks!

I bought the about TV about a year and a half ago and have had two light engines changed and I'm still having picture problems.
Usually on the darker colors like green, blue... I see alot of pixels. I've had Sears out several times and they finally said that it was my satelite provider SO I had them out twice and they did what they had to do including upgrading my HD box and satelite.
It's still happening. I'm stuck. I have an HDMI cable hooked up too. Any Ideas?
Thanks.

I bought the about TV about a year and a half ago and have had two light engines changed and I'm still having picture problems.
Usually on the darker colors like green, blue... I see alot of pixels. I've had Sears out several times and they finally said that it was my satelite provider SO I had them out twice and they did what they had to do including upgrading my HD box and satelite.
It's still happening. I'm stuck. I have an HDMI cable hooked up too. Any Ideas?
Thanks.

You need to verify if you see alot of pixels with other signal INputs like a DVD player.

If you see alot of pixels while playing your DVDs, then it's possible that the problem is your HDTV.

If you don't see the same pixels problems playing your DVDs, then it's your satellite provider.

Phil

Glad i bought the extended warranty. I have already bought one bulb and had a few firmware updates from Toshiba. Lots of HD tuner problems, early on. As the guy was hauling it away yesterday, he mentioned that i bought the first edition of this box. When you tune in to HD, over the air programming, you get the audio and no picture. When you switch to the HDMI input, you get picture and no audio. This, of course, happens intermittently. When the guy was out, it wouldn't goof up. Except an odd purple color when you switch to the HDMI and a long lag time to acknowledge the tuner. Three year warranty is up at Christmas time. Thing is, the picture is tops. Couldn't find anything close. My brother bought the 1080P version at Christmas 06 and paid the same price i did. At replacement time, i may go for one of the new Samsung units with the LED light source and no color wheel.

Well, i knew the 4th being in the middle of the week would screw up my tv's time in the shop. I just found out that they won't probably get to the set until around the 11th. OUCH. it was picked up Tuesday the 3rd.

Bought my 62HM196 last January. Well pleased. Run with low lamp power. Learned on this forum how to obtain "power on time" and "lamp on time". Took my first reading at the end of May: Power On Time was 838, and the Lamp On Time was 811. Noted that the Lamp On Time was 27 hours LESS than the Power On Time. Wondered why. About a month later took another reading: Power On Time was 1005, and the Lamp On Time was 973. So now the Lamp On Time was 32 hours LESS then the Power On Time. Can anyone explain this? Are these timers reversed? As the lamp stays on about 5 minutes after turning off the TV, it would seem so. Or am I missing something? Has anyone else noticed this? Curious. (really like this forum!!!!)

I have a 52hm84 that I purchased 9/05 (so of course its out of warranty)

My TV has vertical lines about 1 inch apart across the whole screen... the lines appear regardless of source signal (720p dvd or 1080i cable). The lines appear white (noisy) on a black background and blackish on a white or light colored background, the lines are harder to see with a colorful moving picture.

Anybody have any Ideas on what would cause this? my local service center seems clueless and expensive

Bought my 62HM196 last January. Well pleased. Run with low lamp power. Learned on this forum how to obtain "power on time" and "lamp on time". Took my first reading at the end of May: Power On Time was 838, and the Lamp On Time was 811. Noted that the Lamp On Time was 27 hours LESS than the Power On Time. Wondered why. About a month later took another reading: Power On Time was 1005, and the Lamp On Time was 973. So now the Lamp On Time was 32 hours LESS then the Power On Time. Can anyone explain this? Are these timers reversed? As the lamp stays on about 5 minutes after turning off the TV, it would seem so. Or am I missing something? Has anyone else noticed this? Curious. (really like this forum!!!!)Timers are rarely in sync.Biggest reason for unusal difference could be having turned off the source(Cable box,sat box,DVD) instead of the display.With all the multiples in your remote,this is the likely event.I have noticed on a few occasions where my wife has done just that.NOT ME.....no,no,no.... ;) ;)

I have a 52hm84 that I purchased 9/05 (so of course its out of warranty)

My TV has vertical lines about 1 inch apart across the whole screen... the lines appear regardless of source signal (720p dvd or 1080i cable). The lines appear white (noisy) on a black background and blackish on a white or light colored background, the lines are harder to see with a colorful moving picture.

Anybody have any Ideas on what would cause this? my local service center seems clueless and expensive

I had simular problem couple of years ago it took a light engine replacement to fix

Timers are rarely in sync.Biggest reason for unusal difference could be having turned off the source(Cable box,sat box,DVD) instead of the display.With all the multiples in your remote,this is the likely event.I have noticed on a few occasions where my wife has done just that.NOT ME.....no,no,no.... ;) ;)

Thank you for your response....I'm afraid I don't quite understand it....what does it matter when I happen to turn the TV on and off..both timers are in the TV, and it would seem would track. The lamp stays on for a few minutes after turning the TV off (I have it set for Low Power lamp mode), so I could understand if the Lamp On Time increased over the Power On Time over time, but the opposite is happening. Just curious.

I had simular problem couple of years ago it took a light engine replacement to fix

thats what I was afraid of... might as well buy a new tv rather than replace that

I have owned the 62hm196 for a little over 3 months now and everything so far has worked great EXCEPT for occasional messed up screen when I turn on the set. There would be vertical bars across the screen. See attachment. Each time though, I was able to get the set working again by unplugging the power cord and tuning the set back on again. I do notice though that every time this occurred there was a storm which may be interrupted the power to the set (the set being off).
I now have the set connected to a UPS to avoid the situation. Does anyone else have a similar problem? I am a little reluctant to call the service technician.

Has anyone compared playing an HD-DVD (1080i) movie and a std DVD (480i) on a std DVD player on a Tosh 62HM196 using the same movie? I am curious as to anyones reaction to the improvement.

Thanks

HP999

I purchased a Toshiba 56HM66 in November of 06. On January 20th of 2007 Best Buy replaced the TV because the HDMI ports didnt work. Ive had my current 56HM66 for 6 months. This morning I heard a pop and then the picture went out and I just have a yellow blinking light with the blue light.

I use it about 4 - 6 hours a day and maybe a couple hours on the weekend, so the bulb shouldnt be bad. Its too early to call a tech center or Toshiba, so I thought I would see if anyone on here has seen this issue.

"I have owned the 62hm196 for a little over 3 months now and everything so far has worked great EXCEPT for occasional messed up screen when I turn on the set. There would be vertical bars across the screen. See attachment. Each time though, I was able to get the set working again by unplugging the power cord and tuning the set back on again. I do notice though that every time this occurred there was a storm which may be interrupted the power to the set (the set being off).
I now have the set connected to a UPS to avoid the situation. Does anyone else have a similar problem? I am a little reluctant to call the service technician."

Steve, I have the Toshiba 62MX196 and I have the exact same problem. I posted this in another thread a few days ago. I have called Toshiba and they told me there is a protacal to follow when turning on and off the television. I have my TV
hooked up to a Direct TV Hr20 high def satellite box and Toshiba told me I have to
turn the TV on before the box and reverse the order when turning off. I have to
unplug my TV probably 9 out of every 10 times when using it to get a picture to
come on. I have tried every combination of protocal there is and nothing works.
I think it is a software problem but I am only guessing.
My television has been this way since I purchased it in March. Great picture and
it works fine after unplugging, but I am tired of crawling behind the set everytime.

Gusfan88

Has anyone compared playing an HD-DVD (1080i) movie and a std DVD (480i) on a std DVD player on a Tosh 62HM196 using the same movie? I am curious as to anyones reaction to the improvement.

Thanks

HP999

Uh, ... I have with ...

1) Batman Begins - w/TrueHD 5.1
2) Sahara
3) Happy Feet - w/TrueHD 5.1
4) Serenity
5) The Phantom of the Opera - w/TrueHD 5.1
6) Mystery Men
7) Dante's Peak
8) Mission Impossible 1 & 2
9) King Kong
10) Rio Bravo
11) Forbidden Planet (Collector Tin)
12) Casablanca
13) U-571
14) Bourne Supremacy
15) The Adventures of Robin Hood
16) Space Cowboys
17) Rundown
18) Aeon Flux
19) Italian Job
20) Digital Video Essentials
21) Sky Captain
22) Hulk

My thoughts are, ... the HD DVD PQ is like, ... lifting the see-thru silk screen veil that finally reveals the cyrstal clear, detailed color palettes w/3D depth like images in the 1080p movie vs. the SD DVD PQ!!! :D

Or in other words, ... my HD DVD movies looks spectacular— smooth and natural vs. their SD DVD counterparts.

But another benefit is the HD DVD Audio - Dolby Digital Plus 5.1 sound tracks rocks by being more dynamic, w/impressive precise pin-point 360-degree imaging all-around me.

And as impressive as DD+ 5.1 is, ... my few HD DVD's w/TrueHD 5.1 audibly raises the bar by fully taking advantage of my 5.1 surround HT speakers w/powered-sub @ REF Level!!! :) ;) :rolleyes:

Phil

Hey guys, I have had the 62mx196 for about 10 months now and i wondered if any of you have noticed a light leaking prob in some shots . I will try and take a pic of this but you can only really see it with the lights down low, such as a white logo on one side of the screen and light reflecting from it on the opposite side of the screen (with a black backround) wasn't sure if it was due to overscan or another prob :( other than that the TV reproduces some great HD images

Purchased a 65HM167 and have at most 50 hours on it and the lamp is already blown.
Called Toshiba and they will send a replacement. I'm hoping this is the exception, not the rule, but I'm very concerned.
The picture was fantastic while it worked.
ANyone else have a similar problem with this particular set?

Folks,

I'm searching for a toshiba 72mx195/196. Both units I've found are demo units. Here's the scoop:

72mx195. It's been on display for a year. The home theater shop (not a circuit city type place) recently replaced the bulb and has the lastest firmeware.

vs

72mx196 at a circuit city type place. I ran a service report on this one and it has 4300 hours on the tv and bulb. Neither of them replaced.

Both boxes seem to be in very good condition and come with a one year warranty.

What would be realistic/fair prices for both boxes?

Also, FWIW, the guy at the HT store said that philips makes a large portion of the bulbs and had a bad batch contributing to the blown bulbs.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I would like to purchase soon!

Regards,
Brad

Also, I heard there is no difference between the 195/196 units EXCEPT for color. True /false?

Hi everyone i hope someone can help me with a problem i am having.
I have a 50HM67 and have everything hooked up directly to the TV using HDMI cables. I want the sound to come out thru my Yamaha receiver so i am running an optical cable from the optical out on the TV to the optical in on the receiver. Problem is all i can get is stereo coming out of the receiver and no surround sound. This happens with the dvd player and the cable box. Are there any special settings i am supposed to use on the TV to have it output surround sound to the receiver.I already have it set on Dolby digital on the TV and this is not working. Thank you in advance for any help.

darkstar, try hooking the optical cable from the DVD player and cable boxes directly to the receiver. The optical out on the TV is (I think) only for the built in tuner.

Thank you chroma

I have owned the 62hm196 for a little over 3 months now and everything so far has worked great EXCEPT for occasional messed up screen when I turn on the set. There would be vertical bars across the screen. See attachment. Each time though, I was able to get the set working again by unplugging the power cord and tuning the set back on again. I do notice though that every time this occurred there was a storm which may be interrupted the power to the set (the set being off).
I now have the set connected to a UPS to avoid the situation. Does anyone else have a similar problem? I am a little reluctant to call the service technician.
I have a 62HM195 and had the same problems. Since I had a Harmony Remote already, I adjusted the times to first turn on the TV, then about 7 seconds later change the inputs, etc. This got rid of the problem for me. The only issue was getting the family members used to the idea of keeping the remote pointed at the TV for 10 seconds after hitting start.

Has anyone had any problems with their power supply on the Toshiba 62HM196 T.V.'s It said lamp not working, but Toshiba sent us a new lamp and it didn't work. So we called a tech and they said count the yellow blinking lights. It turns out that the power supply is bad. Also what is up with the network update the T.V. does that do anything at all and if so how do I update the T.V.

Thanks for your help!!!

I have a 46HM95. I've owned it for around 18 months and the thing has been in the shop for a total of about 7 months and I've been through 3 light engines. I've had the unit back for about 2 months and the thing still doesn't look right. My question is for anyone who owns an HM95 generation display. It seems as if the contrast has little or no effect on the display. I'm wondering if anyone else has ever put up a pluge pattern or grayscale pattern and adjusted their contrast? Can you tell a difference when adjusting? My contrast looks horrible and I still get shiny spots on faces and such. No matter how I adjust it still looks bad. Anyone have any info it would be appreciated.

My original post is below, I've had my 62HM196 for about 6 months now and it still looks and runs great. We watch it about 4-6 hours per day.


OK, so I've had my 62HM196 for about a month now. I upgraded from a nine year old 55" Toshiba 4:3 that I paid about $2000 for.

I'm very happy with the picture quality. Using my old Video Essentials non-HD DVD I got the sharpness, chroma, brightness, and contrast adjusted down from the "HEY LOOK AT ME!!!!" showroom floor levels.

I haven't noticed the rainbow effect.

My set is 17'-18' from my couch so the only time I notice any fan noise is when the volume is down and I walk by the set. Our family room/home theater has blackout curtains so I'm running the lamp at low brightness.

My biggest disappointment is the lack of dual tuner PIP/POP (I missed that in my research) and the fact that you are limited as to what you can display in the left window vs the right window. For instance, even though I have Ant 1 set up for QAM and Ant 2 set up for ATSC, I can't display them side by side. Fortunately, I had a spare Hisense ATSC set-top box which I've run into one of the component inputs.

We didn't purchase the matching base, since it narrows at the back like the set. I wanted something with a bit more room, so we bought a generic glass and gray metal stand at the local Best Buy for half the price of the Toshiba stand. Looks and works great.

Overall, I'm very happy with the purchase. I couldn't find a set, LCD/Plasma or RPU, that looked noticeably better for less than $2800 (The 62HM196 was $1799 delivered to my driveway in less than a week from TigerDirect.)

I was looking at getting the 62hm116 but I am starting to see alot of people saying that they have to replace the bulbs all the time. Can someone that has this tv please give me the true low down on the repair factor of this tv.

I brought a Sony BDP-300 Blu-Ray DVD Player home the other day and hooked it up to my Toshiba 52HM84 DLP. The HDMI connection didn't work. The HDMI indicator on the BDP-300 illuminated indicating it detected it. But when I tried viewing the HDMI on the TV I got either nothing or slow green flashes. I cycled through the resolutions using the remote and the LED display on the BDP indicated that was working. The different resolutions had slightly different patterns of flashing and artifacts but no picture. Tried two different cables. The HDMI on the TV works fine with my Dish 811 as well as my old Bravo upconverting DVD player which the BDP was to replace. Checked the regular analog output of the BDP and that was working so the unit was not completely broken.

So, do you think:

1) I got a defective BDP player?
2) There is a compatibility problem in the HDMI or HDCP between the two devices?

Any one else run into this sort of problem?

I brought a Sony BDP-300 Blu-Ray DVD Player home the other day and hooked it up to my Toshiba 52HM84 DLP. The HDMI connection didn't work. The HDMI indicator on the BDP-300 illuminated indicating it detected it. But when I tried viewing the HDMI on the TV I got either nothing or slow green flashes. I cycled through the resolutions using the remote and the LED display on the BDP indicated that was working. The different resolutions had slightly different patterns of flashing and artifacts but no picture. Tried two different cables. The HDMI on the TV works fine with my Dish 811 as well as my old Bravo upconverting DVD player which the BDP was to replace. Checked the regular analog output of the BDP and that was working so the unit was not completely broken.

So, do you think:

1) I got a defective BDP player?
2) There is a compatibility problem in the HDMI or HDCP between the two devices?

Any one else run into this sort of problem?
Toshiba A/V devices only work with HD-DVD equipment and Sony will not allow their equipment to play on Toshiba. There is a Sony firmware update that fixes this if you hook you player to your router...sorry, it doesn't have an internet connector. :)
I am just joking :D You might want to try this:
Turn off both devices, with the HDMI connection hooked up, turn on the TV and make sure it is selecting the HDMI source. Now turn on the player and see if that works for you. Good Luck! :cool:

Toshiba A/V devices only work with HD-DVD equipment and Sony will not allow their equipment to play on Toshiba. There is a Sony firmware update that fixes this if you hook you player to your router...sorry, it doesn't have an internet connector. :)
I am just joking :D You might want to try this:
Turn off both devices, with the HDMI connection hooked up, turn on the TV and make sure it is selecting the HDMI source. Now turn on the player and see if that works for you. Good Luck! :cool:

Well, if only that were true. I returned the Sony to the store and brought home a Toshiba HD-A2. It works a little better, in that the HDMI interface will display a picture for a few seconds, flash and then display for a few more. However, it too is unstable. I know about the TV having to be on and in HDMI before the player. I did that. Updated the firmware too from 1.2 to 2.0 on the player. Still no joy. It's odd though, I would have expected that if my 2 year old set is having compatibility problems with HDMI or HDCP there would be boatloads of other 52HM84 owners with similar problems. But in searching the internet for hours I can't find anything but a problem or two with some cable boxes, and in those cases it seemed to be the cable boxes. Maybe I'm the lucky owner of a lemon. Oh well, I've got a Toshiba TV and a Toshiba HD-DVD, I guess I'm going to call Toshiba tomorrow and see if they can get their stuff to work the way it's supposed to. Sheesh.

Hey, all -

I've got a 62HM116 (62HM196) that has been a really great set for me for about 10 months. It has recently developed a faint diagonal dark line/shadow that is visible with light background images (like a light blue sky, for example). It starts from the upper left corner of the screen and goes to about the left center of the screen area.

Anybody have this occur with their 62HM116/62HM196 or other Toshiba DLP?

I was looking at getting the 62hm116 but I am starting to see alot of people saying that they have to replace the bulbs all the time. Can someone that has this tv please give me the true low down on the repair factor of this tv.

I've owned my 62HM196 since Nov. 9, 2006, and everything is going great.

Last June 26, I checked the Service Menu ...

Lamp On Time: 1477 (hours)
For REF Only: Power On Time: 1475; Lamp On/Off Count: 378

With an AVG. 6.4 Hours a day since Nov. 9th, I estimate that my Lamp On Hours today (July 24th) = approx. 1645 Hours

NOTES:
1. I have an eBay back-up Lamp for my 62HM196, ... just in case!?!?

2. My first 1080p DLP was the 56HM195 (Feb. 1, 2006) and that first Lamp only lasted 570 total hours.
.... a) I had a eBay back-up lamp so I did not have any down-time while I was waiting for the Toshiba FREE Replacement Lamp.
.... b) Received my FREE Toshiba Redesigned Replacement Lamp in 4-days (includes weekend)
.... c) The second Lamp lasted approx. 1100 hours before the Failed Firmware Update (RIP 56HM195) and was still working though the 56HM195 didn't.
.... e) Toshiba arranged to replaced my RIP 56HM195 & Toshiba TV Stand w/62HM196 & TV Stand :D
........ 1) Day's without my 1080p DLP = 57 :(
........ 2) About 10 days after the 56HM195 died, ... I bought the Westinghouse LTV-37w2 720p LCD HDTV w/ATSC & QAM HD Tuner
............ a. It was during Football Season, etc.
............ b. After I received my 62HM196, my Westinghouse is in my Master Bedroom!
.... f) Sold my 56HM195 back-up Lamp @ eBay (used 30 hours)

Hey, all -

I've got a 62HM116 (62HM196) that has been a really great set for me for about 10 months. It has recently developed a faint diagonal dark line/shadow that is visible with light background images (like a light blue sky, for example). It starts from the upper left corner of the screen and goes to about the left center of the screen area.

Anybody have this occur with their 62HM116/62HM196 or other Toshiba DLP?

My set is only 8 month's old (Nov. 9th) so no faint diagonal dark line/shadow yet. I'll report back after it's over 10 month's old.

Could be a sign that the Lamp is starting to go. I remember seeing more diagonal lines/shadow lines on my 56HM195 screen just before the LAMP started getting dimmer, ... (changed Lamp = HIGH) dimmer, ... darker then 'pop'! Lamp blew! All that happened within a few days before the Lamp blew. I did call Toshiba Customer Service the next morning after I notice that the picture was dimming.

Phil

Well, if only that were true. I returned the Sony to the store and brought home a Toshiba HD-A2. It works a little better, in that the HDMI interface will display a picture for a few seconds, flash and then display for a few more. However, it too is unstable. I know about the TV having to be on and in HDMI before the player. I did that. Updated the firmware too from 1.2 to 2.0 on the player. Still no joy. It's odd though, I would have expected that if my 2 year old set is having compatibility problems with HDMI or HDCP there would be boatloads of other 52HM84 owners with similar problems. But in searching the internet for hours I can't find anything but a problem or two with some cable boxes, and in those cases it seemed to be the cable boxes. Maybe I'm the lucky owner of a lemon. Oh well, I've got a Toshiba TV and a Toshiba HD-DVD, I guess I'm going to call Toshiba tomorrow and see if they can get their stuff to work the way it's supposed to. Sheesh.
I have the 52HM84 as well. I just picked up an A2 a week ago. I do get a green flash for a second, but just on power-up or if I change inputs on the TV and then come back to HDMI. But aside from those cases it's been rock solid.

I did have the exact experience you are describing with an LG SD-DVD player (511 IIRC). I believe there was one other user back then that reported similar experiences. Basically it was unusable via HDMI, but worked fine via component.

It's a shame I don't watch TV as often as I used to but just recently I noticed that my 52HMX84 is experiencing some flicker. I'm the only one in the household that sees it because I actually go looking for it and it happens at random. Some days go without flicker while there are days where I can see it and it's just an annoyance once you spot it. Any ideas as to what it could be because I had this issue in the past but was unable to recreate the issue for the tech to examine closely. Thankfully I'm under warranty but any suggestions fellas?

56HM195 - Two days over warranty (but with Fry's extended service).

Just this weekend, picture developed a tilt, with loss of focus - worsening from top to bottom.

Light engine? Service comes on Saturday - they must look first, cannot pre-order LE. :eek:

Edit: Also shows how "overscan" is strictly function of optics and alignment.

I know this has been asked before and I can't seem to find it in this thread....but where can I purchase a replacement Lamp for my 56HM195?

Thanks!

:confused: Hi, I just got off the phone with Toshiba Tech supt...they were pretty useless. :confused:

Anyway...I've got an 52HMX195 hooked to a ps3 via HDMI and Im trying to figure out what would be the best settings on my TV. I've played around with RGB full and that crushes my blacks and makes things look way too dark unless I turn the brightness to around 80. When I do that it looks ok again but when I am looking at just a pure black screen like at the beginning of a video or something the screen has got a very dramatic green tint to the black.

I wish my TV had a few separate preference settings instead of just one but hey...cant change that now.

Should I be using RGB full for everything? Should I be using YcCrCb? What do you guys use for settings on the preference setting? I ran DVE dvd and it looked like everything was pretty much spot on at 50 bright 50 color 50 tint and 100 contrast. The sharpness doesnt barely do a damn thing from 0 to 100 using the overscan pattern as a test. Right now Im at 100 contrast 50 color 50 brightness 50 tint and 0 sharpness. I have dynamic contrast on...that seems to make a pretty huge difference but I cant notice a difference with MPEG noise reduction. I have my lamp on super bright right now but for the first few months it was on low.

Thanks in advance for any opinions on what looks best on your sets.

My bulb just blew tonight. Was watching Matrix HD earlier in the day and all was fine and was quite happy with my picture. Came home after dinner, and turned the tv on and got the blinky lights. I have about 2 months left on my visa warranty and filed a claim with them. Bought a spare bulb in 2006 and will install tonight. Weird how it just blew and I'm kicking myself for not checking the bulb hours but I'm thinking close to 3K. Bought the tv 9/05 and love it.

For those who have filed a claim with your credit card company warranty division, was it a painless process to get a new bulb or repairs? Just curious if I will get the run around and hoping it's nothing more than a blown bulb. Thanks.

Hi,

I'm a long time forum reader, first time poster.

I have a Toshiba 46HM84 DLP that I received from a family member.

When I turn it on, there is no sound and no picture. There is a flashing red light and a solid green light.

From what I've read, this means it needs a bulb replacement. However, I spoke to the family member who gave it to me and he said that he had a 'TV expert friend' look at it and he said it was the light engine.

Is there anyway to get a definitive answer (beyond taking it in for repair?)

Thanks,
Mike

Check the manual and it lists what the light flashing means, etc.

how can I check the bulb hours? I'd like to see what Im at.

I have the 52HM84 as well. I just picked up an A2 a week ago. I do get a green flash for a second, but just on power-up or if I change inputs on the TV and then come back to HDMI. But aside from those cases it's been rock solid.

I did have the exact experience you are describing with an LG SD-DVD player (511 IIRC). I believe there was one other user back then that reported similar experiences. Basically it was unusable via HDMI, but worked fine via component.

Well, looks like my HDMI is bad or marginal or something. The odd thing is the service center claims that Toshiba says it could be the scalar board or it could be the light engine. To try to fix both those things we are looking at $1000 bucks which is not worth it. A real shame, since the set is only 2 years old and one of it's main features isn't working correctly. I still suspect some sort of backward incompatibility but I guess since it's working for other people I must have a lemon. Anyway, the current plan is to buy an old DVI based Oppo upconverting player from Ebay to replace my dead Bravo V1 in the hopes that like my other 2 year old DVI based devices, they will work correctly with my set. Must be something in the HDMI 1.3 standard that is not playing well with my set. If that works I'll probably hold onto this set for another year or two and then retire it. I looked at the current sets but I think this stuff is still in such flux that it's better to wait if at all possible before plunking down another $2000+ on something that is going to be obsolete in months. In any event, I doubt I'm going to be buying toshiba again. I've had one of their laptops, an old tube set and a VCR and I've found their products to not last as long as those of other manufacturers.

I have a 62HM195 and had the same problems. Since I had a Harmony Remote already, I adjusted the times to first turn on the TV, then about 7 seconds later change the inputs, etc. This got rid of the problem for me. The only issue was getting the family members used to the idea of keeping the remote pointed at the TV for 10 seconds after hitting start.

I had the same issue with my 62HM195...I have a Harmony 880 remote and changed the order as well..TV first, delay to change inputs, then everything else goes on...the family is so used to me and macros on remotes that they know they must hold the remote pointing to everything for a little bit.... :D

I've been comparing the HD-A2 in both 720p mode and 1080i mode on my 50HM67. I notice an appreciable improvement in picture quality if I set the A2 to 1080i mode. This seems a little counter-intuitive as I'd expected 720p to be the best setting. Has anyone else any experience with this set and 720p vs 1080i/p settings?

Thanks

Brian

I've been comparing the HD-A2 in both 720p mode and 1080i mode on my 50HM67. I notice an appreciable improvement in picture quality if I set the A2 to 1080i mode. This seems a little counter-intuitive as I'd expected 720p to be the best setting. Has anyone else any experience with this set and 720p vs 1080i/p settings?

Thanks

Brian

The Tosh 720p sets have performed better with 1080i input dating back to the first gen. Even documented in owner's manual to choose 1080i over 720p as input resolution if it is available. This was confirmed by the ISF calibrator who worked on my set and is obvious to the naked eye when viewing proper test patterns.

First off, thanks to everyone for the countless amount of help that I've received just by reading all of your posts.

Now to my two questions re: my Toshiba 56HM195...

1. Can anyone help me determine what ports on the unit will accept a 1080p signal? I've scoured the manual and the term '1080p' doesn't appear once, however it is billed as a 1080p capable unit.

2. Can I connect my Macbook Pro to it using a DVI/HDMI cable? Technically, I know that I can but I want to know if I can cause any damage to the unit by doing so. I was hoping to use my laptop to playback HD video content that I have on my hard drive via the DVI/HDMI cable, not to use it as the desktop interface.

Thanks, in advance, for your help!

prophet928,

1. None of the 195 series TVs will accept 1080p nor do the 196 series. The newest 167 series TVs do accept 1080p but only via HDMI and not component. As piturra would say (and point you to the Toshiba DLP reviews in Home Theater Magazine), you won't even see the difference anyway because the Toshiba 195 and 196s do such a good job of deinterlacing 1080i. Just set the output of the device you're connecting to your TV via HDMI or Component to 1080i.

2. Yes, as long as you select a supported resolution and refresh rate you should be able to do so. You might want to check out this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=597364) where it is discussed on the MX models but it should work the same on an HM.

New here, Hi All!

I have the well-known buzzing problem in my 46HM95 (3 months out of warranty). I understand the usual solution to this problem is to replace the light engine. I've also seen a lamp module fan in parts lists. Does this component commonly cause this problem? If so, how can I diagnose which problem I've got?


TIA,
John

I'm in need of some help. I'm new to the HDTV world .....long story short I have a Toshiba 56Hm195 havent really used until this weekend as we were in the midst of a house remodel. Anyways we were watching TV this weekend and after we shut the TV off we noticed a fait sound coming from the back like a fan blowing....Fair enough like a computer I'm sure the TV needs to cool down for a period of time......However 1 day later with TV not being used since the previous day over 12hrs I still hear the fan or (what I think is a fan operating) The noise is very faint, but was surprised to hear it after the TV being off so long......Is this normal to hear this sound? Or am I hearing something else?

I'm in need of some help. I'm new to the HDTV world .....long story short I have a Toshiba 56Hm195 havent really used until this weekend as we were in the midst of a house remodel. Anyways we were watching TV this weekend and after we shut the TV off we noticed a fait sound coming from the back like a fan blowing....Fair enough like a computer I'm sure the TV needs to cool down for a period of time......However 1 day later with TV not being used since the previous day over 12hrs I still hear the fan or (what I think is a fan operating) The noise is very faint, but was surprised to hear it after the TV being off so long......Is this normal to hear this sound? Or am I hearing something else?

There is one fan that will run 24/7, comletely normal.

There is one fan that will run 24/7, comletely normal.

Thanks for the response....A few more questions my TV 56HM195 comes with a cable card slot.....Can someone explain the pro's con's of these. I have Comcast and understand I won't be abe to use ON-demand etc. But it seems if you can bypass having to rent a box these would be a no-brainier?

Also whats the cliff notes version or could someone comment on HDMI cables vs component cables......The comcast guy said in his opinion their wasn't much of a visual difference? Are HDMI cables the way to go vs component cables...Any information on this would be great. ( I'm not a gammer, and watch the occasional DVD)

Thanks in advance?

in my reviews, HDMI gives sharper PQ than component.
my is 62HM84 which was largest best buy RP in TW back to Feb/2004. :cool:

Tosh 62 (http://photo.pchome.com.tw/lienly/017/)

Also whats the cliff notes version or could someone comment on HDMI cables vs component cables......The comcast guy said in his opinion their wasn't much of a visual difference? Are HDMI cables the way to go vs component cables...Any information on this would be great. ( I'm not a gammer, and watch the occasional DVD)

Thanks in advance?

I’ve had my Toshiba 52HM95 for a year and seven months now. It was great until two days ago when vertical lines appeared across the entire screen. The lines are about 2” wide and 2” apart. They appear regardless of input and even across the menu screen. The warranty is out so I’m on my own. Does anyone which part I should replace or what is wrong with my TV? Any help will be appreciated.

I’ve had my Toshiba 52HM95 for a year and seven months now. It was great until two days ago when vertical lines appeared across the entire screen. The lines are about 2” wide and 2” apart. They appear regardless of input and even across the menu screen. The warranty is out so I’m on my own. Does anyone which part I should replace or what is wrong with my TV? Any help will be appreciated.
It may help to take a picture of the screen and post it. Are the colors messed up too? I would figure it is a problem with the color wheel sync. Were there any strange noises before this happened that might indicate a bearing going bad? Usually you are looking at replacing the light engine which is most of the electronics. That's all I can think of. Good Luck.

I've seen no significant difference in PQ between HDMI and component. Except at first before I calibrated them. Don't forget, each port has its own calibration settings.

in my trial, HDMI offers sharper/clearer image.

how do you calibrate? I just use spyderTV.

I've seen no significant difference in PQ between HDMI and component. Except at first before I calibrated them. Don't forget, each port has its own calibration settings.

Directions for calibration are in your manual. Best thing is to use a calibration test pattern or disc. The settings out of the box are terrible for PQ; they're designed to catch your eye in an overlit, visually noisy showroom, not to look good in your house.

Purchased a 56HM195 yesterday and have a quick question.

I need a receiver, but see some have HDMI 1.2 and some are HDMI 1.3. Does my TV type have any bearing on which receiver type I should get? Will the TV work with either HDMI 1.2 or 1.3?

Purchased a 56HM195 yesterday and have a quick question.

I need a receiver, but see some have HDMI 1.2 and some are HDMI 1.3. Does my TV type have any bearing on which receiver type I should get? Will the TV work with either HDMI 1.2 or 1.3?
HDMI 1.3 supports some features that are more in the future (audio sync, deep color), but with the 56HM195, the 1.3 won't be necessary. You may want to choose a reciever that can decode the audio from the HDMI. Some cheaper recievers only pass through the audio & video which makes them only an HDMI switch. The audio decoding will eliminate having to use the optical connection also and will provide better sound with HD-DVD & Bluray. I have the Onkyo 605 which now is around $350. You may find the older 604 at quite a discount.

HDMI 1.3 supports some features that are more in the future (audio sync, deep color), but with the 56HM195, the 1.3 won't be necessary. You may want to choose a reciever that can decode the audio from the HDMI. Some cheaper recievers only pass through the audio & video which makes them only an HDMI switch. The audio decoding will eliminate having to use the optical connection also and will provide better sound with HD-DVD & Bluray. I have the Onkyo 605 which now is around $350. You may find the older 604 at quite a discount.

Right now I'm looking at a Yamaha RX-V661. Any thoughts on that particular unit?

Thanks for the info!

Right now I'm looking at a Yamaha RX-V661. Any thoughts on that particular unit?

Thanks for the info!
Not familiar with that one, but you should go to the reciever's forum of AVS and they should have some threads there.

I have a Toshiba 46HM84 DLP television.

At first, I got a red flashing, solid green light that indicated I needed a new lamp or the lamp door wasn't seated. There was no sound and no picture. I let the TV sit for a bit while I considered selling it for parts online.

But, today, when I powered it up, the TV actually turned on.

However, there is a black and white pattern (the blocks of white/black are about about .5 inch tall, 1 inches wide) that spans the entire screen.

(I have an image of the pattern, but I can't link until I get five posts)

Changing channels, inputs doesn't change the picture (but the screen does go black for a second to signify it is changing something).

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

Hey, just saw the 42HM66 on clearance at Sears. I'd love to read 246 pages of this thread but what are peoples thoughts on this set compared to current flat panel LCD offerings? Does this DLP stand up to the current 40 to 42 inch LCD being made today?

I think you're going to find people here prefer it or they wouldn't be here.

That said, DLP beats LCD any day. Better colors, better blacks, better light levels, lasts longer, costs less. LCD is impressive because you can make a 3" thick one and hang it on your wall. But unless you're living in a studio apartment on the Upper West Side, a 2' deep DLP will make LCD look like a mistake in every other way.

Tks for the reply. My only concern is that the set on display does not seem to have as good a picture as the LCD's when doing a comparison in the store. My hesitancy with an LCD is motion blur since I like to watch sports.

I'll probably take the plunge on the DLP since its close to $500 cheaper. Anyone concerned with the reliability of this set and think a service contract is in order? (although not from sears, prob some place cheaper)

No one can quantify picture quality, but I think you'd find that the DLP wins on picture quality in real viewing conditions, because of better blacks, better brights, and better color control. In store showrooms, the highest profit margin TVs tend to look best. What a coincidence! But you ultimately have to go with what your own eyes tell you.

as FPD $ becomes lower and lower everyday, the $ advantage of RP isn't so big anymore. however, RP still has better PQ than LCD! :cool:

Hey, just saw the 42HM66 on clearance at Sears. I'd love to read 246 pages of this thread but what are peoples thoughts on this set compared to current flat panel LCD offerings? Does this DLP stand up to the current 40 to 42 inch LCD being made today?

I've been searching to no avail to find a place that has a lamp for the 42hm66??Anyone know of a place in US? Just trying to gauge price..

Also, anyone have any experience with the MACK extended warranty (w/ 3 bulbs)??

As a side note: I've seen lots of compliants about issue with bulbs blowing prematurely. The big question is how frequent is this? I'm thinking if the extend warranty vendors don't charge you extra for certain models than the issue is probably limited. I can't imagine they would want to assume unneeded risk.

Anyone know what version of HDMI the 65HM167 has? 1.2? 1.3? TIA

Anyone know what version of HDMI the 65HM167 has? 1.2? 1.3? TIA
The spec sheet says lip sync support. If I am not mistaken, that is a 1.3 function, so I would say it is 1.3 :)

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/65hm167/docs/65hm167_spec.pdf

as FPD $ becomes lower and lower everyday, the $ advantage of RP isn't so big anymore.
True enough, but in a couple of years when you compare the cost of replacing a lamp with the cost of replacing or repairing the LCD screen, it comes right back.

Well, got my 42hm66 set up to my Comcast Scientific Altanta 3100hd box vis component cable. HD channels look very good. The SD channels do not seem to be that great though. I've read in other sites that i may have to try using a s-video cable for SD which I am going to try tonight.

Not sure how the Svideo cable would make SD look any better?

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. I have a Toshiba 62HM195 DLP and it is one month out of warranty. Anyhow, for the last few days whenever the TV is off for a while, once I turn on the TV there is a blue background with split pink screens scrolling rapidly across the TV. Usually if I turn the TV on and off serveral times, unplug the TV or change the input, the TV starts to work. Anybody know the cause of this and what can be done?

Thanks!!

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. I have a Toshiba 62HM195 DLP and it is one month out of warranty. Anyhow, for the last few days whenever the TV is off for a while, once I turn on the TV there is a blue background with split pink screens scrolling rapidly across the TV. Usually if I turn the TV on and off serveral times, unplug the TV or change the input, the TV starts to work. Anybody know the cause of this and what can be done?

Thanks!!

This happens occassionally on my 56MX195 and others here have mentioned it also. I bet you have a cable or sat box or DVR that is connected to your TV via HDMI. Sometimes the device's HDMI connection to the TV gets out of sync or something and causes that to occur when powering up the TV. There's no need to turn off the TV or unplug it, just change the input to something else and back to HDMI and that takes care of it.

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. I have a Toshiba 62HM195 DLP and it is one month out of warranty. Anyhow, for the last few days whenever the TV is off for a while, once I turn on the TV there is a blue background with split pink screens scrolling rapidly across the TV. Usually if I turn the TV on and off serveral times, unplug the TV or change the input, the TV starts to work. Anybody know the cause of this and what can be done?

Thanks!!
This can be solved by using a Harmony Remote or other that can program delays. Set up the start to turn on the TV, give it about 5 seconds, then change the inputs.

Confirm also happens on the 56HM195, with same solution, switching to HDMI2 then back to HDMI1 input resolves.

Cheers

Thx for the info on the harmony remote, ill have to check my settings

has anyone got HDMI problem?
my 62HM84 works fine with JVC DH5U and Pio 745 DVR via HDMI.:)
but now connect HDMI sources to Onkyo 905, then 905 to Tosh, I get no any picture!:( what's wrong?
is b/c Tosh HDMI not v1.3? possible to solve this headache if Tosh offer firmware upgrade?

Any and all help/advice is appreciated.

Yesterday (Saturday, 8/18), I was playing my XBox 360 that is connected to my 56HM195 via component cable. I've had the Toshiba since 10/7/05 and it has been treated perfectly since it was first turned on.

I noticed that, while playing, there was some sort of vignetting going on and the display was not as bright as I was used to. After about 30 minutes of playing, I heard a loud 'POP', faintly smelled some smoke and the display went dead. On the unit, the blue and red LEDs were blinking.

Here are my questions:

1. Most obviously, if any of you would have to guess, what would you think happened? (I purchased the 3 yr extended warranty from One Call, so I am covered regardless). I'm curious to get opinions as to what would cause a TV that is barely 2 yrs old to die.

2. The ONLY thing that I had done differently with that TV since I bought it was on the night before (Friday, 8/17), I connected my MacBook Pro to the TV using an HDMI/DVI cable to play a High Def movie. The Display Profile that the laptop was using for the TV was too dark for the picture so I used a different color profile which displayed a brighter picture. Could that have caused the TV to POP and die?

As always, you are all very helpful and I really appreciate the time and thought.

Brian

If your 'display profile' included changing the TV mode to a setting that was higher brightness, or HIGH LAMP then I would think this could have 'pushed the bulb' over the edge so to speak.

If your 'display profile' included changing the TV mode to a setting that was higher brightness, or HIGH LAMP then I would think this could have 'pushed the bulb' over the edge so to speak.

I believe the Display Profile that I had selected on the MacBook Pro was 'Generic RGB Profile', which brought the display to a viewable brightness. By default, using the 'TSB TV' profile, the display from the laptop to the TV was extremely dark. I had tried to play around with the display settings on the TV, and tried the three different viewing modes (Sports, Standard, and Movie). All three provided really hard-to-view video. Once I changed the profile to 'Generic RGB', I was able to view the video comfortably.

Also, I have always kept the TV on Low Lamp for each video input, as well as cool temperature.

Plus, could changing the display profile on the laptop apply changes to the settings on the TV? I do not believe that changing the Display Profile on the MacBook Pro would force a High Lamp setting. Unless someone else can tell me otherwise... I'm not 100% sure by any standard.

Ah. Display settings on the MAC Book, its just affecting what you see on your TV, it would not/could not affect any setting on your TV.

I just had the same television, 65HM167, delivered yesterday. So far I like everything about it. I will be getting a calibration disk this week but I suppose I need some burn in time before I use it. Any opinions?


No replies whatsovever since posted. No one has this television, no one can input. Thought this forum was to help others. Thanks.

Any and all help/advice is appreciated.

Yesterday (Saturday, 8/18), I was playing my XBox 360 that is connected to my 56HM195 via component cable. I've had the Toshiba since 10/7/05 and it has been treated perfectly since it was first turned on.

I noticed that, while playing, there was some sort of vignetting going on and the display was not as bright as I was used to. After about 30 minutes of playing, I heard a loud 'POP', faintly smelled some smoke and the display went dead. On the unit, the blue and red LEDs were blinking.

Here are my questions:

1. Most obviously, if any of you would have to guess, what would you think happened? (I purchased the 3 yr extended warranty from One Call, so I am covered regardless). I'm curious to get opinions as to what would cause a TV that is barely 2 yrs old to die.

2. The ONLY thing that I had done differently with that TV since I bought it was on the night before (Friday, 8/17), I connected my MacBook Pro to the TV using an HDMI/DVI cable to play a High Def movie. The Display Profile that the laptop was using for the TV was too dark for the picture so I used a different color profile which displayed a brighter picture. Could that have caused the TV to POP and die?

As always, you are all very helpful and I really appreciate the time and thought.

Brian

Brian,

Unfortunately you've experienced a blown bulb. Depending on the extended warranty you purchased it may or may not be covered. You'll have to look into it with the seller. The fact that you changed some settings has nothing to do with the bulb going.

On the flip side, the cost of replacing this particular bulb is approximately $200US.

Brian,

Unfortunately you've experienced a blown bulb. Depending on the extended warranty you purchased it may or may not be covered. You'll have to look into it with the seller. The fact that you changed some settings has nothing to do with the bulb going.

On the flip side, the cost of replacing this particular bulb is approximately $200US.

Yeah, I placed the service request with the warranty provider. The good news is that my extended warranty covers the bulb (which was a major selling point for me). The service tech is scheduled to come by next Tuesday, which kills me but it beats having to shell out the money for the bulb on my own!

Thanks for your response.

Can anyone share thier settings for the 42HM66? Both regular and service menu?

I need a little help here. I'm about to throw a flippin brick through my tv. I have a 52hmx95. We bought it late september 06 and the picture has been getting considerably dimmer and dimmer for that last week. I don't see any of the display lights that would indicate a bad bulb. I was cheap and didn't buy a SP and I'm not real sure what to do. Any help would be appreciated; maybe even a gift cert to your favorite in town steak house.

First, Go to the Toshiba website with your serial number and see if you qualify for the two year warranty on your bulb http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/notices/dlplamp.asp or call Toshiba. You are losing your bulb and you don't need to wait until it pops before they send you a new one. If there is no warranty, you can find a bulb here http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/52HMX95/Toshiba/Toshiba/23311153/New.aspx The lamp is very easy to replace.

I am missing some of the image on the bottom of my 52hmx84, is there an adjustment that can be made in the service menu?

I am missing some of the image on the bottom of my 52hmx84, is there an adjustment that can be made in the service menu?

Are you saying that image is too low and bottom is cut off? For the Toshiba DLP I have, the HPOS setting in the service menu is the way to adjust that.

Over the past few weeks I noted this problem on my 56HM195 too. Set is over 1.5 years old but luckily under Sears ext warranty. For the record, my bulb blew about 3 months ago and got a new one at no-charge.

Noted that my TV has slightly brigher right side vs left side on black scenes or inputs with nothing, just black. Sears was out, changed bulb, no difference. Placed an order for new light engine, of course at no charge.

Has the light engine replacement been a good cure-all for this? Are people getting light engines for the 56hm195?

As it been about two months since I posted the above, I figured I'd let everyone know what's been going on.

To solve the left side vs right side brightness problem, Sears under the 5 years Master Protection Agreement ordered a new light engine.

Early July: new LE installed. Worked great

36 hours later: Loud hum/buzz starts coming out of TV.

Call Sears: They assume over the phone its the fans, order new ones without service visit.

Late July: Sears replaces two fans, no difference.

Sears orders second LE believing its the color wheel and color wheel cannot be ordered separately.

Early August: Second LE has arrived, Sears scheduled to replace, cancels appointment night before.

This past week: Second LE installed. Quiet as a mouse. But somewhere near center of the screen there is some distortion, about the size of a handprint.
Sears cleans lens, bulb but determines this LE is bad. Problem is behind the projection lens per Sears tech.

Sears now orders THIRD LE.

According to Sears MPA, due to a service visit 8 months ago, I've hit the majic FOUR number and qualify for No Lemon Guarantee. New "comparable TV at no-charge"

Problem is no availability at Sears of 57HM167 Toshiba comparable model.
Then there's the "we dont cover the matching Toshiba stand" issue. I have the Toshiba matching stand.

Sears says I can have the new Sammy 56" DLP model but have to buy another stand. OH and then the MPA is history, no carryover. Getting very expensive to replace even as a lemon.

I welcome any inputs/comments/suggestion on experiences with 57hm167 newer Toshiba series.

BTW, I've communicated with Toshiba and since the TV is in it's second year of ownership and under Sears agreement, they can't do much other than supply the LE's to Sears.

My first year of ownership was great, the second year not too good.

If there is no warranty, you can find a bulb here http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/52HMX95/Toshiba/Toshiba/23311153/New.aspx The lamp is very easy to replace.

Just a word to the wise ... check resellerratings.com before ordering from partstore.com.

According to Sears MPA, due to a service visit 8 months ago, I've hit the majic FOUR number and qualify for No Lemon Guarantee. New "comparable TV at no-charge"

Problem is no availability at Sears of 57HM167 Toshiba comparable model.
Then there's the "we dont cover the matching Toshiba stand" issue. I have the Toshiba matching stand.

Sears says I can have the new Sammy 56" DLP model but have to buy another stand. OH and then the MPA is history, no carryover. Getting very expensive to replace even as a lemon.

I welcome any inputs/comments/suggestion on experiences with 57hm167 newer Toshiba series.

BTW, I've communicated with Toshiba and since the TV is in it's second year of ownership and under Sears agreement, they can't do much other than supply the LE's to Sears.

My first year of ownership was great, the second year not too good.

I had a very similar thing happen to me. I had a 56hm195, 4 light engines and a front screen later, I had had enough. Called Toshiba Customer Service :
1-800-351-5481 and got the ball rolling on another TV due to the lemon law you mentioned

Since I had had SO much trouble with it, they
Toshiba ---->Not Sears (where I bought it) , upgraded my TV to the current 62hm196.

Anyway, go directly to Toshiba and Ask them to replace the tv Directly through them and not sears. TV's 1 and 2 both game via big rig directly to the house..........

Sears did not have a 62hm196 at all back in February '07 when I got my first one, and they still don't.

I'm currently in 'phone tag mode' with Toshiba Customer Service to find out what they are going to do about the failure of the 2nd 62 - (1st tv turned green, light engine replaced, didn't fix. - Toshiba sent me another 62 - 5 months later, turned white - light engine replaced - did not fix. - it's my second 62hm196 since Feb. '07 and it is just not working)

It's getting old I tell ya! But don't give up and go directly to Toshiba to get the new tv. Don't bother with sears, I didn't.

If it helps, I talked to Dave Johnston, in TCS., But I am currently in 'phone tag mode' with Robert.

The General Email is:
Toshiba - customer_support@tacp.com.

Good luck!

edit: I have been dealing with Toshiba TV's and TCS since August of '06. They Will get it right one of these times, or just refund me my money - I'll see to it.

Did you say something about your Extended warranty not being transferable?
Mine was, and in fact, was rewinded to when I actually received the 2nd 62hm196. I have a warranty on it until 2010. :)

I had a very similar thing happen to me. I had a 56hm195, 4 light engines and a front screen later, I had had enough. Called Toshiba Customer Service :
1-800-351-5481 and got the ball rolling on another TV due to the lemon law you mentioned

Since I had had SO much trouble with it, they
Toshiba ---->Not Sears (where I bought it) , upgraded my TV to the current 62hm196.

Anyway, go directly to Toshiba and Ask them to replace the tv Directly through them and not sears. TV's 1 and 2 both game via big rig directly to the house..........

Sears did not have a 62hm196 at all back in February '07 when I got my first one, and they still don't.

I'm currently in 'phone tag mode' with Toshiba Customer Service to find out what they are going to do about the failure of the 2nd 62 - (1st tv turned green, light engine replaced, didn't fix. - Toshiba sent me another 62 - 5 months later, turned white - light engine replaced - did not fix. - it's my second 62hm196 since Feb. '07 and it is just not working)

It's getting old I tell ya! But don't give up and go directly to Toshiba to get the new tv. Don't bother with sears, I didn't.

If it helps, I talked to Dave Johnston, in TCS., But I am currently in 'phone tag mode' with Robert.

The General Email is:
Toshiba - customer_support@tacp.com.

Good luck!

edit: I have been dealing with Toshiba TV's and TCS since August of '06. They Will get it right one of these times, or just refund me my money - I'll see to it.

Did you say something about your Extended warranty not being transferable?
Mine was, and in fact, was rewinded to when I actually received the 2nd 62hm196. I have a warranty on it until 2010. :)


Shone, was your extended warranty under the Sears Master Protection Agreement? And you are saying that they rewound it to a new term from the beginning with the replacement set?

Thanks

Does anyone know how to access or reset the lamp bulb hours on a 44HM85? (this is actually a rebranded LG model, but still a toshiba)

Canadian Toshiba support says they will not support this model anymore and will only deal with warranty replacements (fat chance any still has theirs under warranty as it only comes with a 1 year)

I need to know because the Red Lamp error light is still on after replacing the lamp. And toshiba wont help. :mad:

Does anyone know how to access or reset the lamp bulb hours on a 44HM85? (this is actually a rebranded LG model, but still a toshiba)

Canadian Toshiba support says they will not support this model anymore and will only deal with warranty replacements (fat chance any still has theirs under warranty as it only comes with a 1 year)

I need to know because the Red Lamp error light is still on after replacing the lamp. And toshiba wont help. :mad:
Not sure if it blinks the red light also, but you may not have the cover for the lamp on correctly. There is a safety switch on the cover that will not allow it to start.

Not sure if it blinks the red light also, but you may not have the cover for the lamp on correctly. There is a safety switch on the cover that will not allow it to start.

TV works correctly with the new lamp (and much brighter, almost forgot what it looked like brand new).

Lamp light is Red which according to the manual is "Lamp life over". I figure its some stupid setting in the service menu that has a high lamp hour count, and the tv thinks the lamp has been on for a long time and is just pre-warning me. (previous lamp got about 6000 hours).

The light does not blink, and has never blinked (manual says problem with lamp if it was blinking)

http://willus.com/author/dlptv.shtml works to get into the service menu, but does not work to get into bulb hours (verified by others as well). Im not really sure if the lamp hours "code" for the 44hm85 has been discovered.

Still wish toshiba would support their own products.

TV works correctly with the new lamp (and much brighter, almost forgot what it looked like brand new).

Lamp light is Red which according to the manual is "Lamp life over". I figure its some stupid setting in the service menu that has a high lamp hour count, and the tv thinks the lamp has been on for a long time and is just pre-warning me. (previous lamp got about 6000 hours).

The light does not blink, and has never blinked (manual says problem with lamp if it was blinking)

http://willus.com/author/dlptv.shtml works to get into the service menu, but does not work to get into bulb hours (verified by others as well). Im not really sure if the lamp hours "code" for the 44hm85 has been discovered.

Still wish toshiba would support their own products.

Here's a claim that it can be done without even entering the service menu.

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=52237

Shone, was your extended warranty under the Sears Master Protection Agreement? And you are saying that they rewound it to a new term from the beginning with the replacement set?

Thanks

Shome, but that's ok :)

Yes and Yes. But I had to call them and tell/explain to them I had yet another set sent to me from Toshiba and they started coverage from there since the old set with the old serial number was sent back to Toshiba and was no longer valid and no longer in my possession. (1 yr Toshiba, 3 yrs. Sears - 1st years coverage overlaps btw.)

They refunded the Total amount spent for the extended warranty, then re-charged me for it to include the warranty from that day - the day I received the 2nd set - forward 'till 2010 with the NEW serial and MODEL number. (all on the phone)

I had to give them the NEW Serial and Model number for the NEW set - that is a MUST, otherwise they will still have the old Serial and Model number from the old set in their records.

I received a letter in the mail from Sears some weeks later --> The NEW Master Protection Agreement with a Certificate Number, New Purchase Date -- (the day I got the 2nd set), Model Number and Expiration set for February 2010.

Hope that helps. It worked well for me, hopefully you'll get it to work for you. :D

** (I am currently in talks still with Toshiba about issues now with this 2nd set - But, I'm working on Toshiba's year of coverage at the moment, and still have the comfort of the sears warranty. My guess now is that I'll be getting either - yet another 62, a possible upgrade to the 65 which is a different model, or a refund for the full amount sent - this is still ongoing.) **

Here's a claim that it can be done without even entering the service menu.

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=52237

unbelievable, I thought Ive tried everything, and that works!

8130 hours is what I got for "total lamp hours", but current hours is "0", we'll have to try again tomorrow to see if the 0 goes up. (lamp red light is still on, maybe when i turn it off/on it will fix it, if not, im not too worried)

Thank you!

Well, have had the 42hm66 for about 20 days and I am about to take it back, not sure if I will ask for a different TV yet. I'm taking back because of a very annoying high pitched whine that comes from the TV, its not super loud but you can hear the noise between quiet scenes of a program.

Here is my quick review:

Pro's
1. Great HD picture
2. SD picture is good with a good source. Old CRT seem to be more forgiving of a poor source picture wise.
3. Fast motion scenes look great.
4. Great blacks and colors.

Cons
1. Replacement bulb seems expensive compared to other sets. Avg. price is $330 although I have seen for $270.
2. Poor viewing angle both vertical and horizontal. SD channels really suffer, HD not as much.
3. Does not handle glare too well. In my living room we get some indirect sunlight and the glare makes it difficult to see however HD channel do not suffer as much.

Now is not a good time to have problems with your Toshiba set ... the bulb went on my 10 month old 62HM116. Toshiba Customer Non-Service asked that I e-mail a copy of the receipt and they would ship me out a new bulb - great. When I called back to be sure they added the receipt to my file I was told "our warehouse is closed for the next week to install a new inventory system". The earliest it could ship is the Tuesday after Labor Day. Asked, since you are making me wait almost a week and a half, please send it next day. "No, we don't do that". After trying to convince the CSR and getting nowhere, I asked to speak to a supervisor. He could not help get it shipped any sooner but did agree to next day when it does ship.

This company puts the customer last ... what kind of an organization allows IT to close it's warehouse for a week to install a new system????????

Anyway, I may have my bulb by a week from Wednesday - 1 1/2 weeks with a very expensive door stop ... and the US Open in HD :confused:

The top and the sides appear to be set correctly however the bottom cuts off some of the picture. This didn't bother me until I saw a show that had text at the bottom of the screen and was only able to see half of it. Why wouldn't this be adjusted correctly from the factory? Thanks for the help.

Friend in Chicago has the 720p 62 inch Toshiba 62HM15A. It was a Costco model bought in June 2006. As you might guess the lamp exploded last Friday with a bang. The sets gets very light use in the range of about 8-10 hours a week. Some days it isn't even turned on. He called Toshiba and they told him that's tough..we aren't sending a new lamp. Needless to say he is pretty unhappy that a 14 month old product with very light use has already failed. Anyone had luck getting Toshiba to step up and do what is right for the customer on these? This is poor customer relations plain and simple. He can still return it to Costco for a full refund since it was purchased before the new return policy on tv's went into effect. Seems a shame to stick Costco for Toshiba's screw up though.

Friend in Chicago has the 720p 62 inch Toshiba 62HM15A. It was a Costco model bought in June 2006. As you might guess the lamp exploded last Friday with a bang. The sets gets very light use in the range of about 8-10 hours a week. Some days it isn't even turned on. He called Toshiba and they told him that's tough..we aren't sending a new lamp. Needless to say he is pretty unhappy that a 14 month old product with very light use has already failed. Anyone had luck getting Toshiba to step up and do what is right for the customer on these? This is poor customer relations plain and simple. He can still return it to Costco for a full refund since it was purchased before the new return policy on tv's went into effect. Seems a shame to stick Costco for Toshiba's screw up though.

Check out this link.
Perhaps the s/n will qualify for the free lamp

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/notices/dlplamp.asp

Check out this link.
Perhaps the s/n will qualify for the free lamp

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/notices/dlplamp.asp

Thanks, but his set was built after the numbers covered. It seems pretty obvious that Toshiba never got the lamp issue fully under control though, and I feel they should back the product better in the interest of customer relations. Sony RPTV's have other issues going on, but lamp failures in the first few years are very rare on these forums in spite of the fact that Sony hugely outsells Toshiba on RPTV's.

Friend in Chicago has the 720p 62 inch Toshiba 62HM15A. It was a Costco model bought in June 2006. As you might guess the lamp exploded last Friday with a bang....
You may want to check out Costco's Concierge Services at 1-866-861-0450. Granted the set was covered by Costco's old policy of unlimited return time, but the new policy eliminates the umlimited returns but extends the warranty to 2 years. Maybe they can help getting a replacement bulb under warranty. Worth a call anyway.

I enjoy Tosh 62HM84 which HDMI works with JVC DH5U, Pio 745H, iamm 36HD, MB200, LimHD200i for years.:)

get Onkyo 905 amp recently b/c want to use 905 as an HDMI switch centre. however, 905 can't handshake with Tosh in HDMI! :( no matter what resol [480p/720p/1080i] I set on 905, both just reject handshaking!

know what's the HDMI ver of Tosh uses?
is it compatible with 905 v1.3a?
anyone has Onkyo new xx5 amp to test if it works with Tosh?:confused:

Hello, I cannot get an answer from my local repair shop regarding my problem. When I turn my TV on it blinks 50 green blinks and then blinks red once and turns off. The manual suggests that this may be a lense cover problem or a burnt out bulb. I am hoping to find a solution since the replacement bulb is over 500 dollars on this two year old TV.

Does anyone know what the problems is for the symptoms mentioned above?

Toshiba 44 inch hdtv plp

Thanks for your time,
Chappy


I am having the exact same problem, and wondering if someone knows what is wrong with my Toshiba 44 inch DLP. It's 2 1/2 years old. Thanks!

Well, have had the 42hm66 for about 20 days and I am about to take it back, not sure if I will ask for a different TV yet. I'm taking back because of a very annoying high pitched whine that comes from the TV, its not super loud but you can hear the noise between quiet scenes of a program.

Here is my quick review:

Pro's
1. Great HD picture
2. SD picture is good with a good source. Old CRT seem to be more forgiving of a poor source picture wise.
3. Fast motion scenes look great.
4. Great blacks and colors.

Cons
1. Replacement bulb seems expensive compared to other sets. Avg. price is $330 although I have seen for $270.
2. Poor viewing angle both vertical and horizontal. SD channels really suffer, HD not as much.
3. Does not handle glare too well. In my living room we get some indirect sunlight and the glare makes it difficult to see however HD channel do not suffer as much.

Well, get this, I went into the service menu and turned off 'smooth picture' and the high pitched whine went away??

After telling me their warehouse was closed until after Labor Day and nothing will ship, Toshiba shipped my warranty replacement lamp yesterday. It was delivered by FEDEX this morning and the set is back in service.

My 46HM95 has a green tint to different parts of the picture. The green will follow certain portions of the video around. Like a person's lips will always be green as they move around on the screen. It can't be the cables or the other components because it does it on every input: DVD/TiVo/VCR/Ant 1/HD/non HD/etc. I plug in other TV's and the cables are fine. Any ideas? Are there any fixes I can do or do I need to call a service tech in?

Thanks, Brian.

Here's a pic:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a151/mtxchevy/UNI_2440.jpg

Any help on the above problem?

nobody uses Onkyo new v1.3 xx5 amp with Tosh xxHM84?:confused:

I test more tonite and approved problem comes at Tosh!
when connect Onkyo 905 amp to other HDMI displays [Mits 3000 pj and Sony 32 LCD], I can see pretty picture and hear sound. :D however, when connect 905 with Tosh, such enjoy stopped!:mad: what's wrong? do I get a LEMON Tosh?:(

may test 905 more with other HDMI displays if possible.

I enjoy Tosh 62HM84 which HDMI works with JVC DH5U, Pio 745H, iamm 36HD, MB200, LimHD200i for years.:)

get Onkyo 905 amp recently b/c want to use 905 as an HDMI switch centre. however, 905 can't handshake with Tosh in HDMI! :( no matter what resol [480p/720p/1080i] I set on 905, both just reject handshaking!

know what's the HDMI ver of Tosh uses?
is it compatible with 905 v1.3a?
anyone has Onkyo new xx5 amp to test if it works with Tosh?:confused:

...I have used the MUTE MUTE MUTE--HOLD and press MENU on the TV to enter the Service Menu and get the "s" display on the screen. I have "easter egged" the various service menu settings with no apparent success at reducing the overscan.

The HPOS and VPOS do nothing but move the picture around and the CUT and DRV settings control only color levels.

Can anyone tell me exactly which menu parameters need to be tweaked to reduce the overscan?

Thanks,
Mike

How do you get the set to "memorize" your changes and exit the service menu?

You exit the SM by powering down. When you power down your changes are saved.

FWIW there is no adjusting overscan, only HPOS and VPOS, unless you can think of a way to shim the light engine in a physical position to get the projected image a bit smaller. Even if you found a way to do this, you'd be surprised at the amount of Closed Caption garbage visible with overscan reduced. Really annoying.

Hey toenail, thanks for the input. You know, I sure would like to adjust the overscan and some other known adjustment regarding geometry.

See, I knew something was not straight when some info at ESPN's bottom image looked lower. So I checked with AVIA's enhanced widescreen circles pattern, which I think it's the best for this checkup. One big circle in the middle, 4 circles - one for each corner, and standard markers. Got my player to show at 720p and, wow man, the image was shifted down...a lot...and to the right. You're supposed to see the 4 circles completely, but that was not my case.

I'm sorry for asking, but I forgot I bought the Service Manual at ebay, and for a sure benefit I'll explain access from there:

1) Press MUTE button twice on Remote Control.

2) Press MUTE button again and hold.

3) While holding MUTE, press the MENU button on the TV set.

Observe a little "S" that appears on the screen; this means Service Mode.

4) Press the MENU button on TV set again.

Observe "S" changes to service item; these are shown on page 7 of the guide.

5) Press CHANNEL buttons on the Remote to change service item.

6) Adjust item by pressing VOLUME buttons.

To align screen image, maintain desired pattern, and look for the HPOS and VPOS service items.

7) To exit, press POWER button to turn the TV off.

Let the TV cycle and wait...I noticed it took longer to turn off from this than from normal use.

Remember to be extremely careful when doing this, as changing any other item might have awful consequences.

Now, I found out that the image has some geometry issues. The top circles looked fine, while the lower ones had some of the outer borders hidden. I would think an overscan or trapezoidal (like computers) option would take care of this, but until someone finds that mysterious setup or fix...my image is perfectly centered. There are no other items that read as regarding to geometry or position; I'm curious about DMDB (DMD BIAS)...what would that do?

Something interesting was changing to other resolutions after alignment with the same pattern. At 480p the image got bigger and the circles lost some border, and at 1080i the image got a bit smaller than at 720p, but shifted a bit to the left, so all circles don't show full. Hmmmm...should I re-center at 1080i or leave it centered at 720p?

Something interesting was changing to other resolutions after alignment with the same pattern. At 480p the image got bigger and the circles lost some border, and at 1080i the image got a bit smaller than at 720p, but shifted a bit to the left, so all circles don't show full. Hmmmm...should I re-center at 1080i or leave it centered at 720p?

I too found that the input signal (480p/720p/1080i) determined the amount of "zoom" and exact placement of the image. The trapezoidal effect is not something you can get rid of. On my set 720p gives the least overscan. There is a small up/down, left/right shift when using 720p vs 1080i. I just set all my output devices to the same output format and re-centered the image in the SM. Now, regardless of what I'm watching the image is centered and has the least amount of overscan the set is capable of. Not perfect but in my case pretty good.

Hey toenail, searching for "knowledge" I stumble on the Toshiba P600DL projector SM; it's a DLP unit. It's light engine has 4 adjusting screws in the main mount, and 3 for the primary mirror (wherever that is). This 7 screws adjust everything regarding the geometry and size of the image; the primary mirror screws take care of the "trapezoidal" glitches.

I guess our engine should be of the same construction and probably we would find those same screws on our TVs. Not that I'm planning to check that out now, but maybe when the next bulb/ballast blows, I'll go ahead and see how it looks like.It

Any idea what the DMD BIAS does? It's something regarding voltage, but no details on what the effects are.

I don't recall adjusting the dmd bias while in the SM. I tried to keep strictly to grayscale, color, black/white level etc, though did use HPOS and VPOS to center the image. Physical adjustment of the light engine as you describe from the notes on that front projector is the only way I can see get the image smaller. I've no idea whether there are adjusting screws that could accomplish this on the RP DLP sets. The service manual PDF that I have makes no mention of them. I find it a bit tough to believe that they would omit this feature from the manual if it exists in the set, though the manual in general is not exactly informative about many things. I'll wait until the set needs some surgery before poking around inside.

Hi,

I own a 52HM85, it's been working great for the last 2 years . A couple of weeks ago, it started acting up though. Every time, I turn the unit on, it works for a few minutes (5 to 10 minutes) and then the image disappears. Screen just suddendly turns black. (The sound is still on, so it can't be a timer issue). Does anybody have any idea what this problem could be? Anybody had this before? (I feel like the owner of a huge 52'' radio right now).

I Have 62hm94 model. When I plug it in the fan starts and the Green light blinks 3 times (no red light), pauses, then repeats the 3 blinks. The screen is black and does not respond to any input. The 3 green blinks must mean something but that sequence is not addressed in the manual and Toshiba don't know what it means. Also, does anyone know what happens when the light engine goes out? I replaced the buld and it sill not starting up. It continuously blins 3 times , pause and blink. Does anyone has this issue. I did call the service person , he thinks it could be mother boaard?.

Does anyone have any suggestions, advice or guidance?

Bought this set on Dec 1, 06.
March 07 - LE #1 blows. Toshiba replaces it.
Sept 07 (today) - replacement LE (#2) blows.

I didn't buy an extended warranty when I bought this set figuring that the bulb should last a few years and I'd get my moneys worth at that point.

I'm working under the assumption that I still am under warranty and will get a new (?) bulb. But come Dec 1, 07, I'll be left with a set that appears to be highly tempermental.

Have these bulbs or this set been subject to a recall?
Seems like a 'lemon law' issue here.
Or did I just get the 'bad apple'?

Not having yet looked (afraid of the sticker price) - have the prices of these bulbs dropped enough that it won't be almost 1/2 the original price of the set?

Thanks for any words of wisdom.

Does anyone have any suggestions, advice or guidance?

Bought this set on Dec 1, 06.
March 07 - LE #1 blows. Toshiba replaces it.
Sept 07 (today) - replacement LE (#2) blows.

I didn't buy an extended warranty when I bought this set figuring that the bulb should last a few years and I'd get my moneys worth at that point.

I'm working under the assumption that I still am under warranty and will get a new (?) bulb. But come Dec 1, 07, I'll be left with a set that appears to be highly tempermental.

Have these bulbs or this set been subject to a recall?
Seems like a 'lemon law' issue here.
Or did I just get the 'bad apple'?

Not having yet looked (afraid of the sticker price) - have the prices of these bulbs dropped enough that it won't be almost 1/2 the original price of the set?

Thanks for any words of wisdom.

Are you replacing light engines (LE) or bulbs? Pretty big difference in price.

Does anyone know the code to get into the service mode on this?? I would love to check lamp hrs. and back blue down a hair.

Sorry to sound like a newb , but I'm new to the consumer stuff. I work on large venue stuff.

Ok - my apologies - my issue is bulbs.
Based on the history of this thread its obvious Toshiba had a known problem back in 05 and early 06. The claim they fixed the issue. At least my experience would seem to prove otherwise.

They willingly are sending bulb number 3 as of yesterday.
I need to figure out what that bulb is warrantied for - the remainder of my 1 year or the bulbs 6 month standalone period.....I suspect the December 1 date.

But blown $200 bulbs (I started searching for prices on the web) every six months is just plain lousy tech. Especially when I can get a same size plasma at Costco for under 1,200.

Hello, I'm new to this forum, but I've often had to refer to it many in times in the past to get advice on the various issues that others have had with the Toshiba HM/HMX Series. I just wanted to share a recent experience that I think many of you may find encouraging or helpful. I, like many others on this forum, recently experienced a strange humming/buzzing sound coming from my Toshiba 52HM95. As I watched my tv turn a nice tint of pink as well as a line on the side, I frantically searched these forums to find that many others have also had this problem, which is apparently caused by a bad color wheel. As many of you know, this requires a replacement of the entire light engine. The only problem was that I was too broke to afford the service plan when I bought my TV, and it was about 5 or 6 months out of warranty!

I was really pissed and I decided to call Toshiba to try and get them to make good on the $2300.00 I paid for this TV. I knew this wasn't going to be easy, so I immediately asked for a supervisor. When I spoke with one, I told him that I understood the TV was out of warranty, however, I paid $2300.00 for it and I had previously experienced and reported a blown bulb with my TV. Given the amount I paid for the TV, I felt that this was quite simply unacceptable. The supervisor told me to have an authorized tech come out and diagnose the problem and then would be able to go from there. He also said that if the light engine is bad, then there is a possibility that this issue and blown bulb were related. If that was the case, then I reported the issue when it was still in warranty so it could be covered.

I had a tech come out and look at the TV, and sure enough, he confirmed the problem for me, which is relayed back to Toshiba. Toshiba had my fax in my receipt, model #, and other info to them so they could touch bases with the repair center. After giving them everything they asked for, they said that they would cover the light engine only if the tech could confirm that the issues were related. I knew that Toshiba could neither confirm nor deny this, it was a year ago, how could they? In any case, I didn't like the way this was going so I called and spoke with another supervisor. I calmy voiced my concern and told him that I honestly wasn't sure if the issues were related, however, they should fix the tv regardless of the issue because it was simply too much to have to fix when I've only had the tv for less than 2 years! I wasn't abusive or insulting, I just politely told him that I was really counting on a supervisor to go out on a limb and take care of this for me. I also mentioned the fact that I was aware of the amount of people who have had this problem and I felt that that was yet another reason to help me.

Last week, while I was on vacation, I got a call from Toshiba telling me that they were going to pay for the new light engine, but that I would have to pay for the labor. I felt this was practical and fair solution (I didn't buy the extended warranty and I couldn't ask for more). So I'm getting my new light engine installed this thursday, the labor was $300.00 but that's a far cry from the near $1400.00 I would have normally had to spend.

Just wanted everyone to know in case anyone else was having this issue. Don't go and buy a new TV or light engine, hold them to the quality of their products and demand that you get what you paid for!

The bulb in my 2.5 years old 52HM94 finally popped last weekend, I didn't notice any brightness decrease before that. However, after the lamp failure, when I tried to start the TV, I head buzzing/clicking sound which I thought was the color wheel spinning sound. Is this normal? I ordered a new lamp but I am worrying the lamp failure may be caused by other issue.

I Have 62hm94 model. When I plug it in the fan starts and the Green light blinks 3 times (no red light), pauses, then repeats the 3 blinks. The screen is black and does not respond to any input. The 3 green blinks must mean something but that sequence is not addressed in the manual and Toshiba don't know what it means. Also, does anyone know what happens when the light engine goes out? I replaced the buld and it sill not starting up. It continuously blins 3 times , pause and blink. Does anyone has this issue. I did call the service person , he thinks it could be mother boaard?.
This combo is consistent with the digital board (seine board) failure.

Hello, I'm new to this forum, but I've often had to refer to it many in times in the past to get advice on the various issues that others have had with the Toshiba HM/HMX Series. I just wanted to share a recent experience that I think many of you may find encouraging or helpful. I, like many others on this forum, recently experienced a strange humming/buzzing sound coming from my Toshiba 52HM95. As I watched my tv turn a nice tint of pink as well as a line on the side, I frantically searched these forums to find that many others have also had this problem, which is apparently caused by a bad color wheel. As many of you know, this requires a replacement of the entire light engine. The only problem was that I was too broke to afford the service plan when I bought my TV, and it was about 5 or 6 months out of warranty! ......Just wanted everyone to know in case anyone else was having this issue. Don't go and buy a new TV or light engine, hold them to the quality of their products and demand that you get what you paid for!

Some good advice on dealing with Toshiba Customer Care - nice post

Can it be Lamp Ballast failute?

This combo is consistent with the digital board (seine board) failure.

Can this be Lamp ballast problem?

Hello,

Looked through numerous posts, but couldn't find one that duplicates my problem.

I recently hooked up my stereo receiver to my 56HM195. All the connections seem ok and all speakers work. The receiver and the tv are both plugged into an APC battery backup unit (the tv into a battery backup outlet, and the receiver in a surge protector outlet).

When the tv is on and I then turn the receiver on, the tv immediately turns off. It cycles through an on and off stage, and then seems ok. There is no problem with the tv if the receiver is on first.

I tried pulling the receiver out of the APC unit, and connected it directly to the wall outlet, but the same problem exists.

The receiver also is directly connected to my powered subwoofer, through an always-on outlet on the back of the receiver.

Any ideas?

I do not want to damage the tv, but sometimes we are watching it with the regular tv speakers, and then may want to switch on the stereo to watch a DVD, so it is kind of a pain to turn the tv off to turn the receiver on !

Thanks.

This combo is consistent with the digital board (seine board) failure.
52HM94 bought Feb 2004. TV recently has issues turning on - get the LED blinking light show and after several resets, the TV would eventually come on and work fine until I turn it off. Each time I turn it on, I hear the crackle / buzz sound and eventually it works. Had extra bulb - no change. Service Tech just visited and said bulb(s) are fine as is the ballast. He implied that the only remaining possibility is the Light Engine. He stated that he would contact Toshiba and see if they will do something about replacing the component. In the event that does not work, I either can find one online ($580 conns.partstore) or deal with Toshiba myself. My question is one of escalation. I've had little luck getting thru to them and finding someone other than a 1st level response person. Does anyone have a Supervisor / Managers name or suggestion - thanks

I either can find one online ($580 conns.partstore) or deal with Toshiba myself. My question is one of escalation. I've had little luck getting thru to them and finding someone other than a 1st level response person. Does anyone have a Supervisor / Managers name or suggestion - thanks

yes. But if it is placed on the post, it will be deleted, because Toshiba spends more time monitoring these threads, than tending to problems.

When they see something they don't like (like there own names), they cry to moderators who quickly aquiesce to censor.

Don't worry, just be patient, someone will get back to you within a month or 2. I have spent literally 6 hours on the phone just trying to get help.

GOOD LUCK-hope you get to read this before it is deleted

yes. But if it is placed on the post, it will be deleted, because Toshiba spends more time monitoring these threads, than tending to problems.

When they see something they don't like (like there own names), they cry to moderators who quickly aquiesce to censor.

Don't worry, just be patient, someone will get back to you within a month or 2. I have spent literally 6 hours on the phone just trying to get help.

GOOD LUCK-hope you get to read this before it is deleted
Interesting response ! I suppose asking for names is a bit much. Spent most of the afternoon going thru this site and www.highdefforum.com - seems to be a common complaint. Really makes one wonder about quality control and dedication to their product. Oh well - we shall see !!!

Bought it at Sams Club 10-11-06
Lamp ruptured three days ago, 9-23-07.
Called customer service and gave info.
Could not find original receipt but went to Sams Club and got duplicate.
Scanned it and sent all in via email.
Waited two days and called again to make sure all was OK.
Was told that receipt did not say Sams Club at the top and so it was sent to another "department" to decide if it was a valid warranty claim.

In other words, they are trying to decide if they want to honor their warranty or not...to me that sounds like they are deciding if they think I am telling the truth. Also, kind of insulting after purchasing their product, supporting their firm. They did not offer to let me know when and if they will decide. Wonder if it will be after one-year date. Rep told me I should go back to Sams and get another receipt. She also seemed surprised Sams Club could produce a receipt that old....which I could interpret as "I don't believe you."

Then again, you may or may not know that you are not talking directly to Toshiba when you call customer service. You are talking to employees of a firm I will not name for now. They offer inbound 800 service for many companies.

Waiting to see if new lamp is sent, if I hear back either way.
Actually quite happy with performance up to that point. Not sure exact hours but I don't think it was over 2000.

Doubt I'd buy a Toshiba anything ever again.
Positive word of mouth is not as valuable... as negative word of mouth is destructive.

I've had my Tosh about 4 years, in my home theater in basement. I recently bought a 42" Philips ambilight 1080p LCD for my upstairs living room. The pic quality on my new TV, really made me realize how poor my Tosh picture is.

For years now, a good friend of mine has begged me to get my TV professionally calibrated. He has experience with a company who does this, and has had nothing but great results. He has referred them to many of our friends, and they have had the same results. They come highly recommended by people all over the US, so I don't doubt their ability. But I finally decided to get this done to see if my picture on my Tosh could be improved and came away unimpressed.

We went through the color menus and corrected some faults.. but colors, black levels, etc. weren't my concern (as I've done the DV solutions DVD to get them close) and always thought that part of picture quality was pretty good. But the "noise" around letters and numbers or the words across the DirectTV menu guide is still there. And I see halo's around almost all images, people, etc. It drives me nuts, and now I can just go upstairs to see what a GREAT image looks like ... which makes it easy to see how awful my Tosh is. I feel like I just spent alot of money to get my colors a little better. He said there wasn't anything he could do about the "sharpness" of the picture. "It is what it is". He said something about original technology, and that the later versions of DLP's are much better. Which makes me sick considering I spent $4,000 on my TV, and they're now selling for waaaayyy less.

I looked through this thread, and almost all complaints are about bulbs... which I have no problem with. Does anyone have any experience with this problem, and have any recommendations on how to improve it.. or am I out of luck with a DLP this old?

the oddest thing to me, is that many of us are now conditioned that spending $400 a year to maintain a TV is somehow, OK! I had a TV that went without servicing for 13 years.

This is not progress.

Anybody who wants names of the higher ups, with phone numbers, feel free to PM me. I hope you will end up happier than I did, but I have all that information stored...don't ask me why...that experience represents the worst consumer experience of my pathetic life.

Just ordered another bulb. I have a gently used, rather worthless, 50HMX96 for sale...best offer. Paid...too much.

masterp2..thanks for the offer.
I've actually been in their offices on another business matter. They really are pretty nice people overall. My only conclusion is that they must be getting a lot of pressure from Toshiba. I've actually had the headsets on.

Guess they might know who I am.

CS called and confirmed they would be sending a new bulb. Of course i ordered one from partstore so now I'll have two.

I've had my Tosh about 4 years, in my home theater in basement. I recently bought a 42" Philips ambilight 1080p LCD for my upstairs living room. The pic quality on my new TV, really made me realize how poor my Tosh picture is.

For years now, a good friend of mine has begged me to get my TV professionally calibrated. He has experience with a company who does this, and has had nothing but great results. He has referred them to many of our friends, and they have had the same results. They come highly recommended by people all over the US, so I don't doubt their ability. But I finally decided to get this done to see if my picture on my Tosh could be improved and came away unimpressed.

We went through the color menus and corrected some faults.. but colors, black levels, etc. weren't my concern (as I've done the DV solutions DVD to get them close) and always thought that part of picture quality was pretty good. But the "noise" around letters and numbers or the words across the DirectTV menu guide is still there. And I see halo's around almost all images, people, etc. It drives me nuts, and now I can just go upstairs to see what a GREAT image looks like ... which makes it easy to see how awful my Tosh is. I feel like I just spent alot of money to get my colors a little better. He said there wasn't anything he could do about the "sharpness" of the picture. "It is what it is". He said something about original technology, and that the later versions of DLP's are much better. Which makes me sick considering I spent $4,000 on my TV, and they're now selling for waaaayyy less.

I looked through this thread, and almost all complaints are about bulbs... which I have no problem with. Does anyone have any experience with this problem, and have any recommendations on how to improve it.. or am I out of luck with a DLP this old?

Not sure of the exact differences between your 62hm84 and my 52hm94 (both 1st gen Tosh DLPs) but will say that with a GOOD source the PQ is outstanding. That said, when my cable provider had poor signal strength issues and when I was using SD-DVD the PQ was pretty poor on this set. I too had a professional calibration that corrected grayscale, color etc and it helped. When the TV is set up to anything other than industry standard the PQ really looks off. The biggest improvement was getting better quality signal from cable and upgrading to HD-DVD. The ringing or haloing you refer to is two things- source (Cox guides and crappy HD productions show the same stuff on my set) and sharpness setting in the user adjustables. Leave it at 0. It is pretty rare that I see other HDTVs with as good an image as I have at home whether in public (stores bars etc) or at friend's.

Other than that, todays equivalent will look better for less money, it's the price we paid for being early adopters. Also, wouldn't expect a larger image at lower resolution to be comparable- 42" 1080p vs 62" 720p

Alright, I seem to be having an issue with my Toshiba 52HMX84. Once again there is an intermittent flickering problem. Problem is I could never reproduce the issue and 2 months ago a service tech came and inspected the unit and couldn't see the problem. The best way to explain it is when a light bulb is near to being completely wasted it'll flicker but in the case of my display it happens once and awhile. Any ideas as to what it could be, I've gone through a total of 3 lamp replacements since 2002. The last replacement was last year in August along with a new ballast.

Not sure of the exact differences between your 62hm84 and my 52hm94 (both 1st gen Tosh DLPs) but will say that with a GOOD source the PQ is outstanding. That said, when my cable provider had poor signal strength issues and when I was using SD-DVD the PQ was pretty poor on this set. I too had a professional calibration that corrected grayscale, color etc and it helped. When the TV is set up to anything other than industry standard the PQ really looks off. The biggest improvement was getting better quality signal from cable and upgrading to HD-DVD. The ringing or haloing you refer to is two things- source (Cox guides and crappy HD productions show the same stuff on my set) and sharpness setting in the user adjustables. Leave it at 0. It is pretty rare that I see other HDTVs with as good an image as I have at home whether in public (stores bars etc) or at friend's.

Other than that, todays equivalent will look better for less money, it's the price we paid for being early adopters. Also, wouldn't expect a larger image at lower resolution to be comparable- 42" 1080p vs 62" 720p

Thanks for the response. I agree that the size and res will make a difference. I've just seen some friends 720p DLP's look alot better than mine (similar or same size). And I'm the one who has set them up (Dig Vid Essentials DVD, etc.). That's frustrating.
As for signal, I have DirectTV, and their newest HDDVR box. My signal strength is high ... I don't know. I figured the sharpness should be real low, which is where I had it ... but the calibrater set at 35 last week. Seems like the picture is worse now. I guess the colors are better since he did his thing, but the fuzziness around letters (ESPN or CBS logo in the corners or stat lines and graphics during games) is real bad. Also, each time you change the channel and get the guide across the top, it becomes real obvious to me looking at the letters. I've always felt close up images of humans during games has been great, even reg def DVDs have been ok. But far away shots, wide shots during football games are terrible. And reg def tV is absolutely out of the question... totally unwatchable. Oh well. Thanks again.

Thanks for the response. I agree that the size and res will make a difference. I've just seen some friends 720p DLP's look alot better than mine (similar or same size). And I'm the one who has set them up (Dig Vid Essentials DVD, etc.). That's frustrating.
As for signal, I have DirectTV, and their newest HDDVR box. My signal strength is high ... I don't know. I figured the sharpness should be real low, which is where I had it ... but the calibrater set at 35 last week. Seems like the picture is worse now. I guess the colors are better since he did his thing, but the fuzziness around letters (ESPN or CBS logo in the corners or stat lines and graphics during games) is real bad. Also, each time you change the channel and get the guide across the top, it becomes real obvious to me looking at the letters. I've always felt close up images of humans during games has been great, even reg def DVDs have been ok. But far away shots, wide shots during football games are terrible. And reg def tV is absolutely out of the question... totally unwatchable. Oh well. Thanks again.

It it true that the modern equivalent set look better for less money.

Some of your comments about text and smaller images (as opposed to close-ups) make me wonder if your sharpness setting isn't contributing to the problem. Also, even with sharpness at "0" the processing in these TVs is bit on the enthusiastic side with edge enhancement to begin with. Are you using HDMI or component input? Most calibrators I've spoken with seem to frown upon any edge enhancement/sharpness with HD material.

I own a 52hmx85 that is 1yr old with ~900hrs on the bulb. I've noticed that the internal fans don't move much air. I was considering attaching an external fan to the exhast to pull through more air. The air coming out of the exhaust is very hot. Do you think this would extend bulb life? I've taken the normal precautions such as setting the tv to low power, using a ups and avoiding cycling the tv unecessarily.

Ok, so on my 52hm95 a flicking line in the shape of a curled horn has appeared coming from the lower right corner of my screen. It's there no matter the source (dvd, cable, blank snow screen) and its fairly noticeable while watching. It appears redish in color. Any idea of what could be the cause? I have a extended in home service warrenty so none of the costs will be out of pocket. Also does anyone have any experience with having one of these tvs deamed unfixable and receiving store credit with the service warrenty? Thanks.

I'd post a pick but i can't find my digital camera at the moment.

Ok, so on my 52hm95 a flicking line in the shape of a curled horn has appeared coming from the lower right corner of my screen. It's there no matter the source (dvd, cable, blank snow screen) and its fairly noticeable while watching. It appears redish in color. Any idea of what could be the cause? I have a extended in home service warrenty so none of the costs will be out of pocket. Also does anyone have any experience with having one of these tvs deamed unfixable and receiving store credit with the service warrenty? Thanks.

I'd post a pick but i can't find my digital camera at the moment.

When you say flicking, do you mean it's flickering in and out or kind of shaking around a bit? If it's shaking it could be a piece of dust somewhere inside the light engine.

My 52HM95 ended up with dust inside it... I had a shakey blue line across my screen for a month before the replacement light engine came in from Tosh. That was over a year ago and everything has been fine since.

That might be it... it just moves back and forth real rapidly. Doesn't the light engine cost a lot of money. Any chance that my extended warrenty company will deam the unit unrepairable if the light engine cost too much to replace?

I've had the 72MX196 for awhile now (after repeated bulb issues with the 195), and tonight there was a sound I can only describe as glass disintegrating at high speed, followed by a loud buzzing sound. The picture went from normal color to fuzzy black and white. I think the color wheel must have shattered. Has anyone experienced this? I'm dreading the LE replacement.

I have been very pleased with this DLP for about a year. Now I am getting a green screen. I went into the service mode but cannot seem to get into a selectable service menu. After getting the "S" on the screen I hit the input button on the remote a few times and the screen turned red, then green, then blue,black and white. So the colors exist and project.

All basic (and advanced) picture settings have been been played with but I cannot get a reasonable color mix.

Can someone explain how to get into the service menu and what options exist? Can it troubleshoot this kind of problem?

Any other ideas about what the issue could be?

Thanks in advance.

Anyone have a service manual for the 62hm84 I can borrow. All of the old links in this thread are expired. I am going to try to replace my ballast this weekend.

*****PLEASE HELP ME******Over the last few weeks I've had massive tiling on my HD channels. Cable tech came out tested all the signals, they all were in standard. He replaced the main line coming from the pole to the house, still tiling. Could my tv be the cause of the tiling? It doesn't tile when I use the ANT2 input that I have an OTA antenna connected to. It also does it when disconnecting the cable card and letting the TV descramble the signals. Anyone else have this problem?

Never mind about the service manual, I replaced the ballast in my 62HM84 and it fixed it. The problem was TV would not turn On, Red light solid green light blinked 9 times then TV would try to restart. At first I thought it might of been the bulb, so I replaced it, same results. Next I replaced the ballast which is pretty easy, just take pictures before you remove the light engine so you can go back to the picture to verify the connections when reinstalling.

I haven't checked this board in almost a year, so I really do not want to go through all 240+ pages of posts looking for calibration settings. For owners of the 52hm95, is there a consensus on the calibration settings? I "calibrated" my set on my own when I first got it, but I expect I am not getting the best image quality that I can (not that is bad know, but might as well get the best picture possible).

I appreciate any help. Thanks.

I haven't checked this board in almost a year, so I really do not want to go through all 240+ pages of posts looking for calibration settings. For owners of the 52hm95, is there a consensus on the calibration settings? I "calibrated" my set on my own when I first got it, but I expect I am not getting the best image quality that I can (not that is bad know, but might as well get the best picture possible).

I appreciate any help. Thanks.

On my 52hm94 I used Avia to calibrate mine. This is what I came up with
Contrast 50
Brightness 50
Color 47
Tint -16
Sharpness 54
It looks wierd at first but it truly is the best for me.

I haven't checked this board in almost a year, so I really do not want to go through all 240+ pages of posts looking for calibration settings. For owners of the 52hm95, is there a consensus on the calibration settings? I "calibrated" my set on my own when I first got it, but I expect I am not getting the best image quality that I can (not that is bad know, but might as well get the best picture possible).

I appreciate any help. Thanks.

Keep in mind every set varies. I had mine ISF'd by a reputable calibrator and will share some observations. We were going for accuracy, not "gee whiz" effect so YMMV as far as percieved PQ. A few things. Start all of your changes using the "Movie" pre-set. It employs the least amount of processing/degrading of image and will render motion most naturally. If your set is anything like mine (52HM94) with Brightness at "50" mirrors are in the "off" position on anything blacker than black, which is more or less what you want. If you have a particularly bright environment you can raise it a few notches. Put your nose right up to the screen while raising and lowering Brightness to see what I mean. Contrast at "50" winds up being very close to correct. Saturation at "46-48" measured right on for red and blue, green was a bit oversaturated but still looks ok by eye. Yellow was a bit green so tint needed "4-6" notches toward red. Turn sharpness to "0". These sets already do too much edge enhancement. Set Lamp to "Low" and Tempurature should be "Warm" if you started in "Movie" pre-set. Save all settings. Warm on my set was about 7500 which is a bit cool and I was bothered by some secondary colors. Unfortunately it's as close as you can get to 6500 without doing a grayscale calibration (which I did). 1080i via HDMI was by far the best resolution as verified by signal generator and Avia Pro. 720p via HDMI was notably worse. This backs up what the manual states about preferred input resolution. Component was a bit of a mess in higher frequencies but again, 1080i resolved the most detail. Image from cable STB at 1080i via component still looked fantastik despite the apparent missing resolution.

ps

Oh, and if you live in a dusty place or are getting a dimmer/fuzzier image than you are used to, try cleaning of the projector lense. It is not in a sealed environment and mine was covered with crap. After cleaning, image was night and day better.

I have a Toshiba model 46HM95 that I recently had alot of work done on. I had a new board containing the A/V inputs replaced, the board with the HDMI replaced, the bulb replaced, and the light engine replaced.

Today is my first time to watch it since the work and the picture is not nearly up to par.

I'm watching the OSU-PSU game on ABCHD through a cable box using component inputs.

Anytime there is a wide screen shot the OSU players look like bright glowing orbs. The O-line blurs together and appears to be one bright line as opposed to 5 or 6 players. The only color definition between the Silver helmet and white jerseys is on closeups of the players.

Any help would be appreciated this TV has been down for 2 months while BB worked on it and now the picture doesn't look good.

hey i have the 52hm84 and i recently put together a HTPC, and i just hooked it up with an DVI-HDMI cable, and their is no picture coming on the screen. The motherboard is a ASUS M2A-VM, so the onboard video is a ATi X1250. And im getting no picture, when it first boots and shows the bios and all that stuff it comes on screen, but after that into windows theirs nothing, so right now i have my lcd monitor downstairs so i can try changing resolutions, but nothing seems to be working just a plain black screen. so any help would be good thanks

EDIT: got it to work needed to update videocard drivers

I've had an 52HMX95 since November of '05. I've gone through 2 bulbs, both while under warranty, and while that was annoying, I absolutely love the TV. Picture is beautiful.

However, I'm having a couple issues, and after some searching on the forum and Google, I can't find any info regarding the problems. First, the remote doesn't always work on the TV. This is if I'm using the TV remote, or a universal, no remote functions work at all. Sometimes they do work perfectly fine though. I can't seem to recreate the issue manually, so I'm not sure of the cause. One thing I've noticed is that it may be temperature related. Maybe it's just me, but it seems like when the ambient temperate of the room is warmer (by no means hot, still "room temp", just warmer ambient temp like in the summer time), it's less reliable, and when it's cooler, it's more reliable. The TV isn't overheating though, because it'll still be cool, and the remote won't work sometimes before I even turn the TV on.

Second, the past couple weeks I've had an issue with my OTA tuner. Twice the TV has said there was no signal from any of the OTA channels. I had the TV search and autoprogram the channels again and they popped back up.

Anybody know anything about these?

I have a 52 inch Toshiba DLP HDTV that I purchased in May of 2006, haven't had any problems with it other than having to replace the bulb in May 07, until a day ago. The picture apparently went out in the middle of when my wife was watching it. I came home unplugged the set and turned it back on, worked great for a little while for her. Watched TV for a while, turned the set off. Now, it won't turn on. I get the green light flashing 3 times, pauses, flash 3 more times, for an eternity. No red lights unless I open the lamp door. The fan sounds like its running, but no clicking sound like you would expect turning the start up. I checked the bulb, doesn't appear to be shattered, and there was no pop like there was when the bulb went out earlier this year. I don't know what to make of this. I'm wondering if it is a power or ballast problem. The Toshiba service center thinks my TV is stuck in quick start mode? Well I told them I can't exactly get to the menu to turn that off. Anyway, I'm just out of warranty, didn't buy the extra warranty since I've never had any problems with a TV before. Any suggestions or links to a service manual would be appreciated.

All, I paid for a 24 hour membership at nodevice.com to get the service manual for my 46HM84. The time started 10am AZ time on 11/13. If you want something, let me know, and I'll try to get it. PM me what you want and an email address to send it to and I'll do my best.

Well, strike that idea. There's a limit to 7 downloads a day for my membership.

I have a 52 inch Toshiba DLP HDTV that I purchased in May of 2006, haven't had any problems with it other than having to replace the bulb in May 07, until a day ago. The picture apparently went out in the middle of when my wife was watching it. I came home unplugged the set and turned it back on, worked great for a little while for her. Watched TV for a while, turned the set off. Now, it won't turn on. I get the green light flashing 3 times, pauses, flash 3 more times, for an eternity. No red lights unless I open the lamp door. The fan sounds like its running, but no clicking sound like you would expect turning the start up. I checked the bulb, doesn't appear to be shattered, and there was no pop like there was when the bulb went out earlier this year. I don't know what to make of this. I'm wondering if it is a power or ballast problem. The Toshiba service center thinks my TV is stuck in quick start mode? Well I told them I can't exactly get to the menu to turn that off. Anyway, I'm just out of warranty, didn't buy the extra warranty since I've never had any problems with a TV before. Any suggestions or links to a service manual would be appreciated.
I'm having the same problem with 62HM196. The set has audio on some of the inputs but no picture. The menus and on-screen guide show up fine so I don't think it has anything to do with the bulbs but I get no picture until I unplug the set and then restart. Have you (or anyone else) found a solution?

I'm having the same problem with 62HM196. The set has audio on some of the inputs but no picture. The menus and on-screen guide show up fine so I don't think it has anything to do with the bulbs but I get no picture until I unplug the set and then restart. Have you (or anyone else) found a solution?

My 56hm195 has done this twice in past 2+ years. No big deal, just a pain. Since TV is plugged into UPS, I power down the UPS, wait 30 seconds and power up and all is well.

The onscreen menus demonstrate the LE works.

Therefore a s/w bug I assume.

The screen is starting to flicker very slightly in brightness. Is the lamp definitely going to go soon?

Yep 100% certainty.
;)

Actually it seems it was only happening on one input, so maybe not.

Edit: Maybe not. :( Well, I got a year and a half almost out of it. Trying to decide whether to buy the bulb ahead of time or wait for it to blow. The $200+ is tight in my budget right now.

Am a newbie to the forum here, but have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to. I want to buy a DLP for our cottage. What I'm concerned about is that it is a 4 season cottage, heated by a wood fireplace in the winter & cold weather etc. Am out there most weekends, but the cottage is at ambient season/winter temperatures when not occupied.

Can a DLP withstand temperatures that can easily fall to probably -35c during the winter months (normal Manitoba winter) without causing any damage? It would be brought up to normal room temp of course, before any use. I sure hope so, but not holding my breath on this one.

Thanks for any advice on this issue.

Dave

Actually it seems it was only happening on one input, so maybe not.

Edit: Maybe not. :( Well, I got a year and a half almost out of it. Trying to decide whether to buy the bulb ahead of time or wait for it to blow. The $200+ is tight in my budget right now.
Where is the best place to buy a replacement bulb?

Are they available on ebay?

Is the price pretty consistent from all vendors?

-TF

what would the actual temp be inside the cottage, surely its not -35c (cold as the inside of a home freezer)

This is where I ordered mine:
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/62HM15A/Toshiba/Toshiba/23311153A/New.aspx

what would the actual temp be inside the cottage, surely its not -35c (cold as the inside of a home freezer)
During the week, when no one is there, the normal winter temp can reach that level easily. It will not always be that cold, but the display can be & at some time will be exposed to those temps. My cottage is so well insulated, that when the outside temp rises, it is actually colder inside, until the entire inside mass has a chance to equalize or a heat source (fireplace) is started. The -35c is an extreme level. but in a normal Manitoba winter, would not be unusual.

Dave

i have a 52hm94 and get a very weird green "tinge" to all the dark scenes when playing PS3 games or watching directv. it does not do it when playing a dvd or Bluray through the PS3. it is hooked up through HDMI. The black colors are not fully black, they look greenish and kind of "shadowy". the problem goes away if i plug the PS3 into an LCD tv.

does this DLP have this problem?

Where is the best place to buy a replacement bulb?

Are they available on ebay?

Is the price pretty consistent from all vendors?

-TF

try cablesnbulbs.com

Concerning problems with no video on OTA channels (where you must turn off and unplug the TV for a few minutes and then restart to fix the problem):

This is a known issue by Toshiba. Get Toshiba/Service Facility to get a software upgrade for the OTA tuner. I finally had mine updated a few weeks ago and have not had the problems since. Sometimes every few weeks, sometimes every few days I would have the same problem--no video on OTA HD channels (but there was audio). I have a 52HM95.

Chuck

I enjoy Tosh 62HM84 which HDMI works with JVC DH5U, Pio 745H, iamm 36HD, MB200, LimHD200i for years.:)

get Onkyo 905 amp recently b/c want to use 905 as an HDMI switch centre. however, 905 can't handshake with Tosh in HDMI! :( no matter what resol [480p/720p/1080i] I set on 905, both just reject handshaking!

know what's the HDMI ver of Tosh uses?
is it compatible with 905 v1.3a?
anyone has Onkyo new xx5 amp to test if it works with Tosh?:confused:

For what it's worth I have a 52HM95 and an Onkyo 605 and they handshake nicely. I have a quite a bit of lag with the new Guitar Hero III with my PS2 which goes thru the Onkyo...but it is manageable. It took some time to get things hooked up correctly...might want to check out the Onkyo 905 or x05 threads here, you probably can get some help.

Charles

Hopefully this is the right place...

I've been pulling my hair out for months over this now. I've got a MacbookPro hooked up to my 50HM67 via DVI->HDMI. The picture is either very overscanned, or extremely underscanned if I check the appropriate overscan box in Display Preferences. If I boot into Windows and set a custom res of 1200x676, it completely solves my overscan problem. If I use Powerstrip to grab the timings and then apply them in OSX with SwitchResX, I get No Video Signal. The other puzzling thing is that using the EXACT same default timings, Windows displays both 1280x720 and 1920x1080 with much, much less underscan than OSX. I've verified between Powerstrip and SwitchResX that the default resolutions and timings are exactly the same, yet they display with maybe a millimeter of underscan in Windows. God I hope someone has the answer for me... I'm ready to throw in the towel.

EDIT:

My MacBook Pro's video card is the ATI X1600.

I have an 46HM94 that is 3 years old, it is no longer displaying any picture, menus,inputs etc, I have swapped the bulb and still no picture.This is using both the front panel and remote. The front panel is operating as I have maxed out the volume(I can hear the static) I can see the slight grey color when it powers up and can see light projecting out of the back of the tv so I know the bulb is powering up. I have re-set the tv using the re-set button on the side multiple times and still no change. When the unit is powered up I can hear the color wheel spin up then a low, brief ... moaning sound. There are no error codes flashing.

Has any body had these same symptoms?



I have an extended warranty through One Call that expires next February.

I will likely be calling a service center on Monday.

Anyone here using a ps3 with RGB full on this TV (52hmx195)? Im thinking about turning it back on and trying to calibrate using DVE again but the first time I did it, I got the strange green tint on blacks so I turned it off.

Anyone here using a ps3 with RGB full on this TV (52hmx195)? Im thinking about turning it back on and trying to calibrate using DVE again but the first time I did it, I got the strange green tint on blacks so I turned it off.

I have the 52HMX94 and my PS3 did the same thing, it's hooked up via HDMI. I turned full off and things looked fine, I didn't try to calibrate it with full on.

I have the 52HMX94 and my PS3 did the same thing, it's hooked up via HDMI. I turned full off and things looked fine, I didn't try to calibrate it with full on.

I tried to calibrate using DVE with FULL turned on and on the brightness calibration the pluge used with 3 bars on each side failed to show all the bars on the side even with brightness at 100. I turned it back to limited.

Does anyone know how to force the other output the YcCrwhatever one to show instead of RGB limited or full. it shows the option on DVD and BDs but I cant get it to force from the xmb. Is it because the XMB is RBG only?

Just connected a PS3 up to my JVC over HDMI. BR movies look a little dark and I have to crank up the brightness 100% to get an acceptable image (else the blacks are crushed). Just wondering if calibration could fix that? Up till now I had been watching SD TV on the set and also using it as a PC monitor (over HDMI). It was darkish there also but I was able to correct that using gamme controls in the video card drivers (clearly the PS3 has no means of adjusting brightness or any color settings).

Lary

Just wrote this to Toshiba:

"Request: I have a first or second generation rear projection HDTV, the 52HM84. Although this unit makes me happy in almost every respect, there's one thing we hometheater fans are wishing for. A vertical zoom control/adjustment.

I know my unit has zooms that work with 1080i inputs, but they cut from the image as they resize the whole display. A better option is to reprogram or provide a vertical only adjustment for which we can increase the height of the picture and minimize the letterbox bars.

I think a firmware upgrade or something like that could be made that, thru an HDMI DVD player, can be applied. The upgrade or reprogram could substitute the whole 720p/1080i zoom menu to do only this adjustment in 3 or 4 steps.

A better solution would be to provide a variable adjustment like the picture scroll, which goes up or down in a +/- manner. This way it could be a one item addition/sustitution to the zoom menu which could say VERTICAL CONTROL or ADJUSTMENT.

This augmentation would make current owners very happy and convince the new potentials to get Toshiba."

OK, anyone would like to support this? Write to them or contact someone here that could make this happen.

It's been over 1.5 years since I last visited this forum and I'm out of the loop. When I purchased my 52HMX95 in 2005, premature lamp failure was a well known issue. With ~2800 hours on my lamp, it finally bit the dust. Does anybody know if Toshiba has redesigned this lamp and if so, are they lasting longer now?

I have the same television the original lamp was replaced after a short life. I haven't had any more problems. Last word I'm hearing Toshiba and Sony both are discontinuing rear projection sets in favor of LCD flat panel sets. Due too short lamp life and LCD'S having fewer moving parts.

My lamp was flickering a month ago so I bought a spare, but the flickering seems to have stopped and the TV is doing fine. Still, the money isn't wasted; we know it will go eventually and I'll be ready.

Hoping someone can help me with this TV set. It didn't give me any problems during the warranty period (go figure) but it's been failing left and right lately. The light engine was replaced in October 2007 - really strange noises and green and red color shades across the screen, led to eventual failure. It wouldn't power on.

Fast forward to today, and for the past week it's sort of had this flickering effect, where a mirrored version of what is on the screen will flash on the screen in BW repeatedly, it looks like a loose connection or interference almost, but occurs on multiple inputs and even in the TV menu system. Also, the colors are really washed out and saturated - the warm ones in particular. For example, when watching the Clemson -Auburn game, the orange helmets were just pixelated and fuzzy, really distorted looking.

I thought the issue might be the bulb, but since replacing the bulb, nothing changed. It's still doing it. Anyone have a problem like this? What the heck are my options since it's technically out of warranty? I think Toshiba should fix these lemons for free, personally.

Thanks everyone.

I really think Toshiba (as Sony already has) is leaving the RPTV market to focus solely on LCD's which means any 'recourse' on lemons might become even more difficult. I have an 42H81 still running perfectly and a one-year old 62HM196 that runs great (knock on wood) and my newest member of my family the 73833 Mitsubishi (first non-Toshiba TV e-va) since Toshiba makes nothing larger than 65".

I really think Toshiba (as Sony already has) is leaving the RPTV market to focus solely on LCD's which means any 'recourse' on lemons might become even more difficult. I have an 42H81 still running perfectly and a one-year old 62HM196 that runs great (knock on wood) and my newest member of my family the 73833 Mitsubishi (first non-Toshiba TV e-va) since Toshiba makes nothing larger than 65".

You mean except the 72HM195, 72MX195, 72HM196 and 72HM196, I presume. Or perhaps you mean in the 2007-2008 model year.

I have the same TV as you. Have you purchased a spare bulb? I'm looking in to where to do so; my set has given excellent service for a year now. I haven't looked in the service menu to see how many hours are on the lamp.

RFT!!!
"The good news is the White House is giving George W. Bush intelligence briefings. You know, some of these jokes just write themselves." -- David Letterman

You mean except the 72HM195, 72MX195, 72HM196 and 72HM196, I presume. Or perhaps you mean in the 2007-2008 model year.

I have the same TV as you. Have you purchased a spare bulb? I'm looking in to where to do so; my set has given excellent service for a year now. I haven't looked in the service menu to see how many hours are on the lamp.

RFT!!!
"The good news is the White House is giving George W. Bush intelligence briefings. You know, some of these jokes just write themselves." -- David Letterman
Correct - the newer model/year. I have not purchased a spare bulb for either Toshiba nor the Mitzy. I'd have to look up to see how to find out how many hours are on the lamp! Hmm - how DO you find that out?

Correct - the newer model/year. I have not purchased a spare bulb for either Toshiba nor the Mitzy. I'd have to look up to see how to find out how many hours are on the lamp! Hmm - how DO you find that out?

Here's what I found in my notes; I think I tried this once, and it worked for me, although it was originally for model 94 owners:

======================================
With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen
2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen
3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -
4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.
5. Press the "Menu" button a second time and the "S" will disappear. On the left side of the screen you will see "RCUT" followed by two numbers.
You are now in the service mode (this is where you can scroll through the options using the up and down channel keys shown above).
6. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.
7. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

I'm going to look at this when I get home, as I've had my TV nearly a year now.


RFT!!!
'N' could be a vowel if enough people just believed in it.

Here's what I found in my notes; I think I tried this once, and it worked for me, although it was originally for model 94 owners:

======================================
With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen
2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen
3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -
4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.
5. Press the "Menu" button a second time and the "S" will disappear. On the left side of the screen you will see "RCUT" followed by two numbers.
You are now in the service mode (this is where you can scroll through the options using the up and down channel keys shown above).
6. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.
7. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

I'm going to look at this when I get home, as I've had my TV nearly a year now.


RFT!!!
'N' could be a vowel if enough people just believed in it.

I'll have to try that - one of the knocks on my toshiba is the inability to change any PQ settings other than the 'general' stuff!

You mean except the 72HM195, 72MX195, 72HM196 and 72HM196, I presume. Or perhaps you mean in the 2007-2008 model year.

I have the same TV as you. Have you purchased a spare bulb? I'm looking in to where to do so; my set has given excellent service for a year now. I haven't looked in the service menu to see how many hours are on the lamp.

RFT!!!
"The good news is the White House is giving George W. Bush intelligence briefings. You know, some of these jokes just write themselves." -- David Letterman

Take a look at this post of mine. It will give you an option that may replace your lamp for free:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12616281#post12616281

Otherwise you can buy the lamp directly from Toshiba, eBay or a number of websites.

Take a look at this post of mine. It will give you an option that may replace your lamp for free:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12616281#post12616281

Otherwise you can buy the lamp directly from Toshiba, eBay or a number of websites.

Thanks, RB. Our TVs are 2006 models, not on the list. After finding the correct lamp (part #72514012), I looked around on the web. Without spending much time, I found it for $200.

So, I'm guessing that *you* know what the 'RFT' in my signature means...

RFT!!!
I'm the quiet neighbor with the big freezer.

I bought a Toshiba 62HM116 (rebadged HM196) from Costco back in Aug 2006.

Just checked the bulb life on it and it is at 1143 hours. However, the picture is noticably darker. I have changed the lamp setting from low to high because of this. Is this normal for the bulb? Do I need to get a new bulb to get my brightness back even though I only have 1143 hours on it??

we recently got a sony 46" V2500 LCD for the bedroom and we are amazed at the picture on that thing (especially when watching blu ray or HD DVD movies on it) and looking at dimmed picture on the Toshiba is depressing at times...

I bought a Toshiba 62HM116 (rebadged HM196) from Costco back in Aug 2006.

Just checked the bulb life on it and it is at 1143 hours. However, the picture is noticably darker. I have changed the lamp setting from low to high because of this. Is this normal for the bulb? Do I need to get a new bulb to get my brightness back even though I only have 1143 hours on it??

we recently got a sony 46" V2500 LCD for the bedroom and we are amazed at the picture on that thing (especially when watching blu ray or HD DVD movies on it) and looking at dimmed picture on the Toshiba is depressing at times...You need to get a new lamp assembly...now. Imminent blown bulb in assembly.About $175.00 from numerous sources.I have bought several on ebay.Usually only a day or two until it pops.Good luck:)

I bought a Toshiba 62HM116 (rebadged HM196) from Costco back in Aug 2006.

Just checked the bulb life on it and it is at 1143 hours. However, the picture is noticably darker. I have changed the lamp setting from low to high because of this. Is this normal for the bulb? Do I need to get a new bulb to get my brightness back even though I only have 1143 hours on it??

we recently got a sony 46" V2500 LCD for the bedroom and we are amazed at the picture on that thing (especially when watching blu ray or HD DVD movies on it) and looking at dimmed picture on the Toshiba is depressing at times...

The correct part number for the lamp is 72514012. I'm going to buy one soon, just to have it.

RFT!!!
C: the power of assembler with the flexibility of assembler.

http://lamps-dlp.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumber=72514012&A=G&B=T4012 Only one of many sites

You need to get a new lamp assembly...now. Imminent blown bulb in assembly.About $175.00 from numerous sources.I have bought several on ebay.Usually only a day or two until it pops.Good luck:)

a new bulb at 17 months/1143 hours?? for some reason, I thought they would last longer...

a new bulb at 17 months/1143 hours?? for some reason, I thought they would last longer...Most do....by the time you see these posts,posters already have the problem. DLP in general has had a lot of lamp problems.Toshiba probably more than most. The Tosh lamp is more problematic.(150 Hi-Brite)Lamp cycles has a lot to do with the problem,not just the number of hours.The one thing that is important to me is PQ.I own the latest Sharp LCD...A Panny plasma...and this bulb eating monster. I would rather watch it and by a lamp every year than any other display I have seen. Just me...maybe:)P.S. Of course....Tosh has abandoned future DLPs

a new bulb at 17 months/1143 hours?? for some reason, I thought they would last longer...

I paid for the tv on my AMEX card, the warranty was extended by a year so the bulb should be covered by them. Wonder if I should just bring this thing back to Costco though since it should grandfathered under the old return policy...I didn't realize how many people had continuing bulb problems with these DLP sets...

I have had my 62HM94 since December of 2004 and have not had any problems. I still have the original bulb (3674 hours). I do have a backup I purchased a year ago ready when it does die (During the 4th quarter of the Superbowl probably). I have always run the TV in low intensity (or low light mode- not sure what it's called). I guess from what i read here I have been lucky.

Pete

I have had my 62HM94 since December of 2004 and have not had any problems. I still have the original bulb (3674 hours). I do have a backup I purchased a year ago ready when it does die (During the 4th quarter of the Superbowl probably). I have always run the TV in low intensity (or low light mode- not sure what it's called). I guess from what i read here I have been lucky.

Petefrom what you have read here....yes. The problem display owners find their way to the forums looking for help.You have been in the majority of owners.