12-30-07, 09:04 AM #190 | Link
wuelfman
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1 my bulb just blew with 4259 hours on it. hi lamp and ran that tv all the time
got a replacement on e-bay for $120 i have have the 62mx195


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12-31-07, 10:53 PM #191 | Link
Brian_Canuck99
New Member


Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2 Lamp Failure 52HMX84

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My initial lamp blew this evening a little more than 1 week short of lasting 3-years (steady daily use, I figure over 4,000 hours:). Fortunately, I had purchased an extended 3 warranty (hopefully the replacement bulb lasts as long).

While I have been very pleased with this TV, having the bulb go out on new years's eve is inconvenient. Next purchase will be a plasma, likely the panny TH-58PZ750 to replace the Tosh which will go downstairs.


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01-02-08, 12:32 PM #192 | Link
62hmShaun
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2 Have had mine for about a year now and still goin @ 8109 hrs on bulb, But just ordered a new one just in case


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01-02-08, 03:04 PM #193 | Link
Kelsen
Member


Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 31 Quote:
Originally Posted by 62hmShaun
Have had mine for about a year now and still goin @ 8109 hrs on bulb, But just ordered a new one just in case

Dude, that's more than 22 hours a day for a full year; don't you sleep?

RFT!!!
We were unanimous - in fact everyone was unanimous.
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01-02-08, 07:22 PM #194 | Link
62hmShaun
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2 Lol I never thought of it like that, I bought it I guess 1.5 yrs ago, but ya its on alot. 2 kids and wife at home practilly 24/7.
Either way im still impressed with the lamp hours at least on this bulb


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01-02-08, 10:11 PM #195 | Link
rseven
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 238 When I first voted in this poll I had an 05 model with one of those defective bulbs that blew in 6 weeks or so. I have since replaced it with an 06 model (62HM116) and it has been going strong for 15 months with heavy usage. It seems that Toshiba resolved the bulb problem but the bad PR killed them


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Today, 09:32 AM #196 | Link
Brian_Canuck99
New Member


Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2 Update

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bulb was replaced today on warranty (I found out that my warranty is good until Sept 2009). Went into the service menu and the bulb had 6,850 hours. Have always used low power. Hopefully, the second bulb lasts as long. I'm going to hold off on plasma until I get a better sense of what will happen with Laser TV. Technology looks promising. I'm hoping that CES 2008 will provide some answers.

The above is the content of the last few posts on this AVS thread... Toshiba HM and HMX Owners Regarding Lamp failure .

Please see attached pic - these vertical bands appear regardless of the input selected. Has anyone else experienced this and if yes - what was the remedy.

Please see attached pic - these vertical bands appear regardless of the input selected. Has anyone else experienced this and if yes - what was the remedy.

Yes.

Light engine under warranty maybe 3 years ago.

Roy

Thanks for the reply - thank god for extended service plans

Glad to finally find a thread for other HM owners on here. I'm using one of the older ones..the 62HM85 i think (its about 1.5-2 years old and only does 1080i but man does it do it well :).

Is there a recommended calibration disk for this tv or should I just use the DVD essentials disk?

Glad to finally find a thread for other HM owners on here. I'm using one of the older ones..the 62HM85 i think (its about 1.5-2 years old and only does 1080i but man does it do it well :).

Is there a recommended calibration disk for this tv or should I just use the DVD essentials disk?

I chose to use a cal disc that was created by users from this website. I had Avia and DVD Essentials available to me but felt this was a better disc designed for DLPs rather than cRTs not to mention it's much easier to use.

http://www.calibrate.tv/

Here's a link to the thread here at AVS where we users and the creators discuss the cal disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7178409&&#post7178409

I have a black bar that across the TV that does not go away. FYI its not close caption, and its not the left and right bars... Ive had this TV for 2 1/2yrs and I know how to work every settings on it... I called Toshiba but they do not know what it can be. They just offered a Tech.
?Has any one experience this on there Tv.? its a black line about 2inches thick running across the middle of the tv from left to right.
Please help.

Hoping someone can help me with this TV set. It didn't give me any problems during the warranty period (go figure) but it's been failing left and right lately. The light engine was replaced in October 2007 - really strange noises and green and red color shades across the screen, led to eventual failure. It wouldn't power on.

Fast forward to today, and for the past week it's sort of had this flickering effect, where a mirrored version of what is on the screen will flash on the screen in BW repeatedly, it looks like a loose connection or interference almost, but occurs on multiple inputs and even in the TV menu system. Also, the colors are really washed out and saturated - the warm ones in particular. For example, when watching the Clemson -Auburn game, the orange helmets were just pixelated and fuzzy, really distorted looking.

I thought the issue might be the bulb, but since replacing the bulb, nothing changed. It's still doing it. Anyone have a problem like this? What the heck are my options since it's technically out of warranty? I think Toshiba should fix these lemons for free, personally.

Thanks everyone.


I am having the same issue with my 52HM95 dont have the money right now to get it looked at but everyone i have talked to says its the light engine but i dont know for sure.If you get yours fixed pls let me know what it was so i can just order the part myself thks! I think it is the light engine to since the menus are affected also and the light engine is almost impossible to get its on backorder everywhere that its sold!

I did a search on the AVS forum in it's entirety, and this thread and cannot find the answer to my dilemma. I have a 2 year old 46HM95 TV.

The picture will "wiggle" for lack of a better term. For a while I figured that it was my crappy Comcast Motorola STB, but it appears that it's not. I've swapped boxes, and inputs to the TV. Then I noticed the same "wiggle" when viewing DVD's too, obviously on a different input. Component, HDMI... it doesn't matter.

The wiggle has no noticeable pattern. It's completely random. It only happens on the lower half of the picture. It's like part of the image stays still, turns white for a split second, and catches back up with the rest of the image. It kind of looks like the image "wiggled" for a fraction of a second. It's always in the same spot on the screen.

I did change the HPOS and VPOS values through the service menu a while back, and for the life of me I can't find where I wrote down the original values. Does someone have the original service settings values for a 46HM95 set that they can post/ PM me? I want to test if restoring these values makes this stop, or if I have to call service.

Thanks for your assistance.

Timm

I have a black bar that across the TV that does not go away. FYI its not close caption, and its not the left and right bars... Ive had this TV for 2 1/2yrs and I know how to work every settings on it... I called Toshiba but they do not know what it can be. They just offered a Tech.
?Has any one experience this on there Tv.? its a black line about 2inches thick running across the middle of the tv from left to right.
Please help.

need help

need help

Sorry dude- I havent' seen this.

I paid for the tv on my AMEX card, the warranty was extended by a year so the bulb should be covered by them. Wonder if I should just bring this thing back to Costco though since it should grandfathered under the old return policy...I didn't realize how many people had continuing bulb problems with these DLP sets...

Bulb blew this morning while the wife was watching TV...should have my new lamp tomorrow (thanks AMEX!). Still peeved at the idea that the lamp only last 1100 hours :mad:

Nothing leads me to believe that this new lamp will last any longer though...

My out-of-warranty 52HM94 is misbehaving again with the sound, no picture, red/green light show - buzz sound upon power up. Eventually, something catches and the picture appears and works fine until power off. Some days, it takes a couple of minutes, others up to 30. My last exercise(s) with Toshiba was typical of previous experiences i.e. - call Toshiba and be told to call a local repair shop. I've already had one out ( $100 ) to look at it, verify a few things, check my new bulb, indicate it "might" be the LE, take the check and leave. The other service place available wanted to haul the TV away and diagnose it at their facility. Am not too keen on losing my TV for as long as 2-3 weeks just yet.

Anyhow, from what I've found on this site ( I may be wrong here ) - it looks like there are 4 components that cause problems and can be replaced. The bulb, ballast, Light Engine and power supply. Other than the bulb, there seems to be some guess work in figuring out the faulty component on many of these problems. In some situations, it almost appears that replacing something like the LE is a "catch all" solution.

Can someone give a simple explanation of these components and how they relate to each other ? Also, is there any way to help pinpoint or isolate a problem area ?

My reasoning is that I'd like to obtain the component on my own and perhaps attempt to replace it before I call Toshiba for the 4th or 5th time or send my TV away for repair.

After waiting 3 weeks for my extended warranty company to come through on my replacement bulb, I ended up ordering one on my own. I ordered it from Lamps-DLP.com because I HAD to have it before next weekend. The local repair shop did call today but claimed even if they ordered the lamp it would be at least 7 business days before I would be up and going. Has anybody heard what kind of reputation Lamps-DLP.com has? I do know that so far they stand behind some of their talk. I ordered my lamp just minutes before the cut-off time and they indeed shipped it the same day.

I have a 52HM84. OK, some deep questions:

1) Is there a way to lower the brightness of the menu?

2) To better set colors with calibration DVDs is recommended to turn off other colors except blue. In the Service Menu there some items regarding RGB (which I think stand for red, green, and blue), some are CUTOFF, the others are DRIVE. Is there a way to leave only blue on with these?

3) This TV is near to impossible to setup Contrast (white level) with calibration DVDs because it doesn't disappear the bars in the white pattern; so it's always a setup by "eye". Apparently this means the unit shows whiters than white. I suppose the only way to set is using somekind of light meter or colorimeter. Besides SpyderTV, is there a simpler apparatus fo this purpose or is there a useful pattern to use for simple calibration?

Is there an access door on a 52hm95 anywhere or a filter to clean? I took my screen off the other day to clean the lens inside since it was covered in dust. I am just wondering if there is an easier way to do this.

Hello,

As a follow-up to my previous post. My 62HMX85 has over 7,000 hours on it. I had the first bulb replacement at about 1000 hours so this second bulb has around 6,000 hrs on it and is still ok! I was feeling pretty good about that until I turned it on last Sunday and a series of vertical bars appeared on the screen. (see pic in previous post) I have an extended service contract so called service - repair man says a new light engine will be required.
According to the service manual the light engine includes a new lamp - can those of you that have had a light engine replacement confirm that the new light engine includes a new lamp?

Hello,

As a follow-up to my previous post. My 62HMX85 has over 7,000 hours on it. I had the first bulb replacement at about 1000 hours so this second bulb has around 6,000 hrs on it and is still ok! I was feeling pretty good about that until I turned it on last Sunday and a series of vertical bars appeared on the screen. (see pic in previous post) I have an extended service contract so called service - repair man says a new light engine will be required.
According to the service manual the light engine includes a new lamp - can those of you that have had a light engine replacement confirm that the new light engine includes a new lamp?Absolutely not...

http://www.partstore.com/GetModel.aspx?MfgName=Toshiba&BrandName=Toshiba&ModelNumber=62HMX85&PartCategoryName=&Keywords=light+engine&x=13&y=11 A link to the correct part # and cost of your light engine. A call to them at their website should answer any other questions you may have...:)

Well I have less then a 1,000 hours on my bulb and it went on Saturday,I have a 62HMX196, $200 for new bulb.
I have had the set 14 months and was told to contact toshiba that I might get a replacement bulb even though warranty has run out.
Always had it on low power and was very careful on proper use.I do love this set and the picture I just hope that the next bulb goes a little farther.

Well I have less then a 1,000 hours on my bulb and it went on Saturday,I have a 62HMX196, $200 for new bulb.
I have had the set 14 months and was told to contact toshiba that I might get a replacement bulb even though warranty has run out.
Always had it on low power and was very careful on proper use.I do love this set and the picture I just hope that the next bulb goes a little farther.

That's the same set i have - where did you get that $ from for the bulb?

The place I picked up my bulb is in Brampton Ontario Canada, $195 plus tax.

Hey guys,
It has been a LONG time since I have checked out this thread, but I read back as far as I could and didn't see this issue. I have an 52HM95, and just got a Tivo HD (not a Series 3). It seems that every time the Tivo switches resolutions, the TV only displays and entire screen of static. The only way to fix this is to change inputs on the TV and switching back to the Tivo (which is going through one of the HDMI ports). I have had other things going through this input and never had this problem before, and I have used the cable before with no problems as well. I 'fixed' this by setting the Tivo to only output in 720P, which seems to be working fine so far (for a few hours anyways) but I would much rather have everything displayed natively. Has anyone seen any issues like this before?

The place I picked up my bulb is in Brampton Ontario Canada, $195 plus tax.Good buy is $175 plus shipping,so you did ok..........R u in the carbiz??

Good buy is $175 plus shipping,so you did ok..........R u in the carbiz??

Not in the car biz but into older cars, have a 69 vett and all my buds have old cars also been a hobby for some time.
Is Good buy State side?

Not in the car biz but into older cars, have a 69 vett and all my buds have old cars also been a hobby for some time.
Is Good buy State side?Yea...here (USA) $175 is a good buy.Of course,here lately,your money is worth more than ours...:D I've been a used car dealer/collector here for 37 years now....:)

Hello,

I'm also a car guy - I have a 63 corvette roadster. Thanks for the part number enmoco. The part description says includes E998Z - parts list describes this number as the bulb hence my question yesterday. I still have the spare from Toshiba so I'm ok either way - sure miss my tv though, repair is taking too long!

Good buy is $175 plus shipping,so you did ok..........R u in the carbiz??

With import fees etc that'd boost my USA price up quite high :(

Mods, I didn't see anything in the rules about this (I am not a dealer), but if it is not allowed, please delete....Thanks.

I have a brand new 72514012 Toshiba lamp (box is still sealed) that will work for these models:

62HM116 62HM196 62MX196 72HM196 72MX196

Seeing if anyone here would be interested before I put it up on ebay...send me a PM in the next few days. I will sell it a discounted price to a fellow AVS'r...

http://lamps-dlp.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumber=72514012&A=G&B=T4012 $180 everyday price

for anyone that is interested, this lamp is from lamps-dlp.com (receipt/order confirmation can be provided upon request - bulb is in a toshiba box that has not been opened) and I am willing to sell it for $150 shipped to a fellow AVS'er...if I don't hear from anyone by Saturday, it will be listed on eBay...thanks.

you can check my ebay feedback under 'spacejamz' as well.

Mods, I didn't see anything in the rules about this (I am not a dealer), but if it is not allowed, please delete....Thanks.

I have a brand new 72514012 Toshiba lamp (box is still sealed) that will work for these models:

62HM116 62HM196 62MX196 72HM196 72MX196

Seeing if anyone here would be interested before I put it up on ebay...send me a PM in the next few days. I will sell it a discounted price to a fellow AVS'r...

Why are you selling it? I might be interested since i dont' have a back-up for my 62"

since no one saw my post, knows the answer, or just doesn't care, I am going to repost it.

Is there an access door on a 52hm95 anywhere or a filter to clean? I took my screen off the other day to clean the lens inside since it was covered in dust. I am just wondering if there is an easier way to do this.

since no one saw my post, knows the answer, or just doesn't care, I am going to repost it.

dunno (at least you got one answer):o

Hi all.

Looking for a quick answer if possible.

I'll try to be somewhat brief with the question.

I have my PS3 hooked up via HDMI to my 52HM95. There is an option on the PS3 to set the RGB to Limited or Full. (I'm currently watching in Limited).

I've read on other forums that if your TV supports Full RGB you should be watching that way as the picture is less "washed out".

I've switched the PS3 setting to Full and I notice the picture is less "washed out" and much richer. However the blacks are extremely dark (shadows, etc.) when watching blu-ray movies and playing games. I've tried to adjust the picture settings but can't seem to get it to look "right".

I was originally satisfied with the Limited setting but now that I've checked out the Full setting, I'm wondering if I'm missing something. The picture and color really did look better except for the too dark blacks. If I could correct this I think I'd be all set.

I should note that I originally calibrated my setup using Digital Video Essentials while the PS3 was on Limited. I also tried to calibrate it on Full but could not make it look right.

My guess is this TV doesn't support Full RGB and that's why I'm getting the deep blacks. I'm hoping someone can confirm if this is true or not and maybe reccomend the setting to fix this.

Also, just curious as to what settings (brightness/contrast/color/etc.) others may have who are hooking their PS3 directly to the HDMI on the same TV.

Thanks.

Back again with update.

Last week I posted my bulb with less then 1,000 hours went on my 62mx196, I have had the set since Nov 23 / 06.
With out ever thinking to check my warranty in the validation section on Toshiba web site I went fast as I could and bought another bulb.
When I picked it up the guy told me to try Toshiba for a bulb under warranty anyway,so after buying the bulb I went home and put my serial# into the Toshiba warranty # validation check and to my supprise the set is under warrenty from nov 23/06
untill feb 23 /08.
Gee I always thought there was only 12 months in a year,I am not complaining if they want to give extra time I will take it!
Is this normal?

A few weeks ago I realized my TV (62HMX94) would eventually need a new bulb, and I should probably get a spare just in case. Before I could procurea spare, the lamp popped, so I ended up paying extra to have it shipped overnight, so that I could have it installed in time for football this weekend.

The lamp is extremely easy to put in, but it turns out the lamp went because the ballast failed and took the lamp with it. At least this is my best guess based upon talking with the guy who sold me the lamp on ebay, and the guy who is selling a ballast on ebay.

I'm pretty sure I can install the ballast, more easily with the service manual.

My questions:


Where is a good place to order the part from?
Where can I get the service manual from?
Has anyone here done this operation, and do you have any pointers or suggestions?


Thanks,

-TF

Back again with update.

Last week I posted my bulb with less then 1,000 hours went on my 62mx196, I have had the set since Nov 23 / 06.
With out ever thinking to check my warranty in the validation section on Toshiba web site I went fast as I could and bought another bulb.
When I picked it up the guy told me to try Toshiba for a bulb under warranty anyway,so after buying the bulb I went home and put my serial# into the Toshiba warranty # validation check and to my supprise the set is under warrenty from nov 23/06
untill feb 23 /08.
Gee I always thought there was only 12 months in a year,I am not complaining if they want to give extra time I will take it!
Is this normal?

Thankfully the warranty period on the sets with potentially defective bulbs (premature failure) is longer, hence the need to put your sets serial # in.....much has been written about these issues in this forum...

The warranty period on the sets with potentially defective bulbs (premature failure) is longer, hence the need to put your sets serial # in.....much has been written about these issues in this forum...
Toshiba lamp warranty extension (to two years)was on 2005 models(xxxx195) Possibly, I missed something?

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/notices/dlplamp.asp

Toshiba lamp warranty extension (to two years)was on 2005 models(xxxx195) Possibly, I missed something?

Possibly you did, no matter what that official statement was... as the poster stated when he put in his serial # in the web site it said he had more than one year coverage....you are reminding me why I've stayed away from this forum....for quite some time..

see ya!

Possibly, I missed something?The object of this forum is to share info....perhaps others with his model would NOW like to have the unposted webpage to verify their warranty data on a like model.....but,comprehension was never your strong suit.

The object of this forum is to share info....perhaps others with his model would NOW like to have the unposted webpage to verify their warranty data on a like model.....but,comprehension was never your strong suit.

Alas enmoco...you dont fail to be your usual self..attitude drips from your every post....have fun pontificating and having the strong need to prove yourself right...even the littlest deviation must be magnified by you...perhaps too much sand was kicked on you in the sandbox as a child???

Possibly, I missed something? This is a nice way of saying "Supply necessary documentation (ie:Where he got this info) to verify certain ser.#s have any extended warranty. It is you who is pontificating here. Your remark was tasteless and showed little else.It certainly was a personal attack on your part and showed absolutely no contribution whatsoever.I will not engage in any further rhetoric.

This is a nice way of saying "Supply necessary documentation (ie:Where he got this info) to verify certain ser.#s have any extended warranty. It is you who is pontificating here. Your remark was tasteless and showed little else.It certainly was a personal attack on your part and showed absolutely no contribution whatsoever.I will not engage in any further rhetoric.

enmoco YOU are a poster on this forum who has had numerous run ins on whatever thread you chose to spew your crap in...all one has to do is perform a search under your name and see your attitiude is one that is not appreciated in this forum by MANY...

I have a 65HM167, and it seems to be having a lot of troubles staying in Game Mode. It has to be set to Game Mode every time it's powered on, and after being on for a few hours it sometimes goes out of Game Mode as well. Is this normal, or should I place a service call?

I have a 65HM167, and it seems to be having a lot of troubles staying in Game Mode. It has to be set to Game Mode every time it's powered on, and after being on for a few hours it sometimes goes out of Game Mode as well. Is this normal, or should I place a service call?

Did it always stay in game mode after a power cycle previously and now this is a change? I have never used game mode on my 195 but it sounds like you may have to choose game mode each time the set is powered on....otherwise, beats the heck out of me....

My TV glitches. I've asked this before, but had a hard time explaining the Problem. Only through the inputs. Does Not happen when watching OTA or cable. Just through component (XBOX 360) and HDMI (Blu-Ray player). This time I caught it on video. The video is below as well as 3 still frames, one before, one during, and one after. If anyone can help me diagnose this problem that'd be awesome. It happens frequently during gaming and watching a movie, and it's quite annoying. Yes, I'm playing tetris on my 360.
CLIP
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/th_Glitchmovie.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/?action=view&current=Glitchmovie.flv)
PICs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/beforeGlitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/Glitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/afterGlitch.jpg

...For the user adjustments there is a new calibration disk by GETGRAY in the calibration forum which is easier to use than other commercial products and a lot cheaper. You do need a blue optical filter that is not supplied to use it...

I have a 52HM84 which I usually calibrated using AVIA. Because of the info regarding GetGray and it's widescreen native image, I bought it too. Alignment, sharpness, and color were very satisfying but struck a situation with Brightness.

Maybe is the combination with my Panasonic S-77 DVD player, but with everything as it's supposed to be, GetGray's black level went too dark. So, even though GetGray is the apparently better calibration DVD, I would recommend to make AVIA comparisons with good movie and TV material for the Brightness setting.

I have a 65HM167, and it seems to be having a lot of troubles staying in Game Mode. It has to be set to Game Mode every time it's powered on, and after being on for a few hours it sometimes goes out of Game Mode as well. Is this normal, or should I place a service call?

Game mode appears to get reset to off when the picture size setting changes, or the TV powers off.

Hello all. I've got a Toshiba DLP 56MX195 and a couple of questions for you expert viewers that I hope you can help me with, please.

This set has HDMI and I thought I was on the cutting edge when I got it. (For a minute maybe.) Anyway this is HDMI 1.0 I believe.

Is HDMI 1.3 a firmware or hardware upgrade to this set? If so, how can I upgrade?

If I am stuck with HDMI 1.0, what can I expect to happen if I plug in a HDMI 1.3 compliant device such as an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player?

Also, it is my understanding that this HDTV will not pass a 1080p signal from an HDMI source through HDMI. True? What then happens? Does it pass a 1080i signal into the set and then upconvert it to 1080p or is 1080i "it"?

One thing that greatly annoys me is that the set which I use with a CableCard (actually I've got a Cable Box too for flexibility) takes an irritating 6-10 seconds to change channels when surfing up or down! Anyone know if their firmware upgrades might solve this?

I am basically happy with the quality of this HDTV. I, like many of you, had to replace the lamp but I was luck to have been given an extended warranty and a free lamp...this time...which was almost two years later.

Thanks for any help you all can provide to help me understand more about the HDMI issues and more.

SNazz123

Is HDMI 1.3 a firmware or hardware upgrade to this set? If so, how can I upgrade?No

[QUOTE]If I am stuck with HDMI 1.0, what can I expect to happen if I plug in a HDMI 1.3 compliant device Also, it is my understanding that this HDTV will not pass a 1080p signal from an HDMI source through HDMI. True? What then happens? Does it pass a 1080i signal into the set and then upconvert it to 1080p or is 1080i "it"? such as an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player?Expect a great picture and sound Also, it is my understanding that this HDTV will not pass a 1080p signal from an HDMI source through HDMI. True? What then happens? Does it pass a 1080i signal into the set and then upconvert it to 1080p or is 1080i "it"? True and your device will show any input it receives in 1080p...as that is your native resolution as stated. One thing that greatly annoys me is that the set which I use with a CableCard (actually I've got a Cable Box too for flexibility) takes an irritating 6-10 seconds to change channels when surfing up or down! Anyone know if their firmware upgrades might solve this? A great many of Tosh updates are CC related. Call Tosh CS and they will send you a card to insert and upgrade if they have one to satisfy your problem. Many different Cable companies come into the mix.. You are certainly welcome and you have nothing to worry about. Good luck in your viewing future.....:)

my bulb just blew, how can i find out how many hours werre on it?

52hm84 tosh

No
[QUOTE]
Expect a great picture and sound True and your device will show any input it receives in 1080p...as that is your native resolution as stated. A great many of Tosh updates are CC related. Call Tosh CS and they will send you a card to insert and upgrade if they have one to satisfy your problem. Many different Cable companies come into the mix.. You are certainly welcome and you have nothing to worry about. Good luck in your viewing future.....:)

Thanks for your kind reply enmoco and words of wisdom. I was very concerned that HDMI 1.3 devices would not play nice with my HDMI 1.0-based Toshiba. I am very relieved about them working together well!

I had a number of Toshiba firmware upgrades since I got the HDTV and thinks have been quite stable for a good year now but it is probably time to ping them for something that will fix this very long time delay for channel changes. Thanks for spurring me on to do something about this!

Thanks!
SNazz123

Toshiba 56HM195
Original Bulb

I noticed when my TIVO was changing to 720p content (ie the TIVO menu screens) the TV would not pick it up properly and it would display snow. The only way to correct this was to connect the TIVO to HDMI2.

Any ideas? I'm convinced my HDMI1 is now longer accepting 720p content.

Cheers

Hello everyone. I have been using my Toshiba 52HM95 for quite a while now, about a year. Just recently, I've begun having problems viewing ATSC broadcasts. I can view regular channels, but not the X-1 channels. The signal strength on these HDTV broadcasts are still full, and I can hear the audio just fine. I even did a reprogramming of the channels, thinking perhaps somehow the channels changed or something (silly, I know). What's the problem, and is it something that I can fix myself?
Thanks!

I have my TV set up with a couple of different inputs. Is there any way to make it default to the preferred input when the TV is turned on?

Don't think so. Except, leave it on that input when you turn it off...

Don't think so. Except, leave it on that input when you turn it off...

I tried that but it defaults back to a different input.

Anyone else have this problem?
My TV glitches. I've asked this before, but had a hard time explaining the Problem. Only through the inputs. Does Not happen when watching OTA or cable. Just through component (XBOX 360) and HDMI (Blu-Ray player). This time I caught it on video. The video is below as well as 3 still frames, one before, one during, and one after. If anyone can help me diagnose this problem that'd be awesome. It happens frequently during gaming and watching a movie, and it's quite annoying. Yes, I'm playing tetris on my 360.
CLIP
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/th_Glitchmovie.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/?action=view&current=Glitchmovie.flv)
PICs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/beforeGlitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/Glitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/afterGlitch.jpg

Hi - i have a 46HM95 46" TOSHIBA DLP TV (bought it Christmas 2005)...

I was wondering if it had a digital coaxial output - i only see a optical output...I can't use optical for on the air broadcast dolby digital, so I bought a digital coax cable to hook out from the TV and in to my A/V receiver with 5.1 speakers. but I can't find it on the back panel...

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=46hm95
Under specs, it has "Dolby Digital Audio Output (Coaxial)"....???

Please help me!

bump

I tried that but it defaults back to a different input.
Mine certainly doesn't.

Hey-

Is there an IR Code to toggle the internal speaker on the 62HM195? No digital audio on the Wii, and I'm trying to make my Logitech wifeproof.

Can anyone help me identify the source of a small problem I'm having?

It just started today, but I was watching TV on my Toshiba 62" DLP, 62HM84 model, and flipped over to the HD channels. I changed the TV output to the normal component input that I normally use, called "colorstream5"....I noticed two things, however. First, the picture looked a bit zoomed in, and second, it wouldn't let me select the "FULL" option in the picture settings menu. The other settings are "natural" and then "Theater 1, 2, 3"....all the others appeared zoomed in.

I admittedly don't watch a lot of HDTV on my HDTV (weird, huh?) as it's almost exclusively videogames and high-def movies, but I never experienced this problem before.

I have 1 theory - that the program being broadcast through the HD channel at the time was not HD, and thus not coming through at a 16:9 aspect ratio...and thus-thus causing the TV to distort the image and gray-out the option to view it in FULL mode.

I switched the TV signal back to normal TV and it defaulted to FULL, and obviously, allowed me to select that option.

I thought the program I had TiVo'd was HD, but I suppose I could've been mistaken.

Any thoughts? This or something similar ever happen to anyone else?

Thanks in advance for your input.

I've had my 56MX195 a little over two years now.

I keep my bulb setting on HIGH/Bright.. about six months ago I noticed an occasional flashing.. ie.. it would go from bright to low power and back.. etc.. a few times it would even shut the TV off and I'd have a yellow flashing light on the front. I set the power back to low power and had no problems at all.

Yesterday I set the bulb back to bright.. it was ok for a day and just now I got constant flashing going from bright to low power.. rinse and repeat.. no shut offs yet..

Anyone know what this is or experienced this? I have 2 years of warranty left and want to get this fixed if it's something I can't do myself.. Anyone?

Thanks.

I’ve watched these boards (and numerous others) for quite some time now and have been unable to locate a reference to anything that looks like the problems with my DLP. I would appreciate it if someone could just put a name to the issue so I can find something to research. None of the guides or help centers or information lines online (or Toshiba’s help line) have been any help. The only guesses I have are unclean power and maybe dynamic false contouring? I’m living overseas for the next 6 months and will not be able to get back to an authorized service tech (or my extended warranty – thank God I paid for that for the first time in my life!) until August.

TV is a Toshiba 52HM95. (And this isn’t a blown bulb question, if you can believe it! I’ve put that monster to bed.) Problem occurs on cable (which runs directly from wall to TV) and all other digital sources via my Yamaha RX-V2600. Sony DVD player, Samsung VCR, and Xbox 360 all go into the receiver which is connected to the TV via HDMI. Changing this up doesn’t help. All power is connected to Monster Power Center, which runs to the wall. Note: this system ran fine hooked up as is for over a year. No new components were hooked up before the problems started.

I’ve owned the TV for two years now. The picture has always been superb until a couple of months ago. For some reason, two problems popped up (and they weren’t simultaneous, as I recall.) I get an irregular flashing blue light that permeates through part of the picture. I think this may be unclean power, but not too certain. I am also experiencing an issue with color/contrast. This isn’t a user setting issue – I can calibrate the TV with my calibration DVD but it doesn’t help. In bright scenes, the picture is still pretty decent. In high-contrast scenes (light and dark) or purely dark scenes, it’s horrible - almost unwatchable. All the dark areas look red-brown and are muddied and areas where there should be a gradual fading of color are just sick. I’m including a one minute video clip of a movie review show which illustrates the problems. There is also a picture which shows the color/contrast issue: regarding the color/contrast issue, notice the background behind the movie reviewers on both the picture and video and the faces (red and green bands and brown muddiness in dark areas) in the clips of the video. Any ideas?

Picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21386714@N05/2254120835/
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHLfEkK91-U

62HM84 Start-up problem -

I'm having trouble with my 62HM84 that I think may be ballast related. Upon turning the TV power on, the bulb requires several "autostart" attempts before I have video. Audio is fine and there is no buzzing sound, just several cycles to get the bulb started. I tried replacing the bulb with my back-up bulb, same results.

Before I bite the bullet and call a Toshiba-authorized service dealer, can anyone help diagnose this problem? Has anyone solved this problem without requiring service? How much should I expect to spend?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Sounds like a ballast gone/going bad. I found the part on the internet for around 70 bucks with shipping.

Mine needed many attempts to fire, and then finally would. After I replaced the ballast it starts first time.

-TF

For the Love of God, someone has to have this same problem...
My TV glitches. I've asked this before, but had a hard time explaining the Problem. Only through the inputs. Does Not happen when watching OTA or cable. Just through component (XBOX 360) and HDMI (Blu-Ray player). This time I caught it on video. The video is below as well as 3 still frames, one before, one during, and one after. If anyone can help me diagnose this problem that'd be awesome. It happens frequently during gaming and watching a movie, and it's quite annoying. Yes, I'm playing tetris on my 360.
CLIP
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/th_Glitchmovie.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/?action=view&current=Glitchmovie.flv)
PICs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/beforeGlitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/Glitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/Bloodta/GlitchyTV/afterGlitch.jpg

TechnicalFoul, thanks for the reply on the ballast. Can you tell me where you bought the part, and is it part number AA47-00008A? That part number runs about $130, I'm not sure if I have the right part ID.

Thanks

I got the part at http://www.partstore.com/

for my TV the part is

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468P/New.aspx

You don't need the service manual. But its on ebay for $8 and made me feel more confident to do the repair, so it was worth it.

The job isn't technically challenging, I took pictures of the wiring I disconnected. This aided re-assembly.

You don't need to fully remove the LE, if you slide the power supply and the lamp assembly to the side the light engine can be pulled part way out, providing access to the ballast.

Be careful when replacing the light engine. I notice I now have a dim spot on my display. I think is a result of a smudge I put on the lens during reassembly.

Good luck!

-TF

TechnicalFoul, thanks for the reply on the ballast. Can you tell me where you bought the part, and is it part number AA47-00008A? That part number runs about $130, I'm not sure if I have the right part ID.

Thanks

I am looking for the service manual for a 65hm167. Anyone know where I can order one on the internet?

Hi - i have a 46HM95 46" TOSHIBA DLP TV (bought it Christmas 2005)...

I was wondering if it had a digital coaxial output - i only see a optical output...I can't use optical for on the air broadcast dolby digital, so I bought a digital coax cable to hook out from the TV and in to my A/V receiver with 5.1 speakers. but I can't find it on the back panel...

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisi...p?model=46hm95
Under specs, it has "Dolby Digital Audio Output (Coaxial)"....???

Please help me!

Hi - i have a 46HM95 46" TOSHIBA DLP TV (bought it Christmas 2005)...

I was wondering if it had a digital coaxial output - i only see a optical output...I can't use optical for on the air broadcast dolby digital, so I bought a digital coax cable to hook out from the TV and in to my A/V receiver with 5.1 speakers. but I can't find it on the back panel...

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisi...p?model=46hm95
Under specs, it has "Dolby Digital Audio Output (Coaxial)"....???

Please help me!

It uses optical output for DD5.1 from OTA sources. It will also pass on 2chDD via the same optical connection for input from your cable box or other sources but your receiver will have to use PLII or similar to get 5ch sound. There is no coax audio out for DD on these TV's.

Thanks, but for some reason, I can't get any sound out of optical...I have an over the air Antenna outside on the roof.

I am looking for the service manual for a 65hm167. Anyone know where I can order one on the internet?

I would try this guy, he has a store on ebay, but I couldn't figure how to link it in less than 5 minutes.....

CompleteServiceManualsdotcom (http://CompleteServiceManuals.com)

If he doesn't have the manual listed, ask and he'll probably post it.

-TF

I am looking for the service manual for a 65hm167. Anyone know where I can order one on the internet?
http://tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/50HM67/docs/50HM67_om_e.pdf

there you go... hit print and you are in business... ;) 3 hole punch it and throw it in a binder for a nice looking manual... :D

Google is a wonderful thing... ;)

So I've been reading through this thread on and off for a while now. About a year and a half ago I bought a Toshiba 52HMX84 DLP... it worked great for about 6 months then blew the bulb up. I had to replace it myself because Toshiba was being a PITA and wouldn't cover it.

6 months ago we put the TV in storage while we rebuilt our house... last week, we pulled it out.

When we turned the TV on, it went through the Red-on, Green-flashy-every-.3-seconds thing 8 times and shut off. Clearly indicating a bad bulb. Checking the bulb though, it looks perfect. No loose connections, no indications of burnout. No dangling filament in it, and certainly no explosion of glass like my last bulb failure. It was making a subtle buzzing noise, so I thought it was the ballast based on some other posts in the thread. I ordered a ballast from conns part search and we tore the TV apart and replaced the unit.

NO LUCK!

The TV is doing exactly what it was doing before... red-on, green-flashy, etc. I've now taken the entire main board out, unplugged everything, plugged it all back in, and still no luck.

Before i toss this thing in the trash, is there anything I'm missing? Maybe some reset procedure?

Really, any help would be appreciated.... is it even possible that the bulb is actually bad if it looks perfect and every filament in it looks good? Is there an easy way to test it?

I hate to throw this TV away, but I might have to...

I would try this guy, he has a store on ebay, but I couldn't figure how to link it in less than 5 minutes.....

CompleteServiceManualsdotcom (http://CompleteServiceManuals.com)

If he doesn't have the manual listed, ask and he'll probably post it.

-TF

Thanks, found it at www.servicemanuals.net

Thanks, found it at www.servicemanuals.net
i guess you didn't see the fact I linked you a copy of the manual... lol

i guess you didn't see the fact I linked you a copy of the manual... lol
You linkd him to the OWNERS MANUAL. he was looking for the SERVICE MANUAL. They're very different documents. The Owners Manual gives you almost no information on troubleshooting your TV or working with its internals.

I still need a copy of the Service Manual... but I just won't pay $15 for it. Anyone know where I can get it online for less than $10 (in PDF form) ... or want to send me a copy of theirs?

You linkd him to the OWNERS MANUAL. he was looking for the SERVICE MANUAL. They're very different documents. The Owners Manual gives you almost no information on troubleshooting your TV or working with its internals.

I still need a copy of the Service Manual... but I just won't pay $15 for it. Anyone know where I can get it online for less than $10 (in PDF form) ... or want to send me a copy of theirs?
oh... gotcha...

service manual might be tough... sorry...

So I've been reading through this thread on and off for a while now. About a year and a half ago I bought a Toshiba 52HMX84 DLP... it worked great for about 6 months then blew the bulb up. I had to replace it myself because Toshiba was being a PITA and wouldn't cover it.

6 months ago we put the TV in storage while we rebuilt our house... last week, we pulled it out.

When we turned the TV on, it went through the Red-on, Green-flashy-every-.3-seconds thing 8 times and shut off. Clearly indicating a bad bulb. Checking the bulb though, it looks perfect. No loose connections, no indications of burnout. No dangling filament in it, and certainly no explosion of glass like my last bulb failure. It was making a subtle buzzing noise, so I thought it was the ballast based on some other posts in the thread. I ordered a ballast from conns part search and we tore the TV apart and replaced the unit.

NO LUCK!

The TV is doing exactly what it was doing before... red-on, green-flashy, etc. I've now taken the entire main board out, unplugged everything, plugged it all back in, and still no luck.

Before i toss this thing in the trash, is there anything I'm missing? Maybe some reset procedure?

You can find a service manual for the 52HM84 on Ebay for $6.99. Should be close enough to your TV. Try item # 190189559487

I have had this tv for almost 4 years and with no issues. I had rarely used the HDMI port on this set. I got a HDDVD player and a Harman Kardon Avr-247 reciever two months ago. Both have HDMI, as a result i have been using the HDMI port on my TV consistently for the first time since i bought it. after about three weeks of working fine this started happening:

- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvVSjUEMxIY.

Now i get no picture at all. this happens when i plug the HDDVD player directly to the tv or when i go thru my reciever. I have an old upconvert dvd player (about 4 years old) and this seems to work fine with the tv! Has anyone has an issue with HDMI and newer devices on these sets? I had a bestbuy technician come check the tv, and he claims the HDMI port on the tv is working fine, and that it's all my other devices :(. what i cant get is why did this work fine for almost three weeks?

I've noticed a small dark "shadow" looking spot on my Toshiba 46HM95 screen. It appears to be dust of some sort on the inside. I assume its farther back into the cavity as it appears to be something small, but shows up about 1" in size on the screen.

Is there an easy way to open it up to clean the dust out?

Hello, I have a 56HM195, and it doesn't turn on. It tries to turn on for a second or two, but then it shuts off and the blue light flashes every second, which corresponds to "abnormal operation of BUS line" What does this mean?

I figured it out, a connector had come loose on the light engine. However, my color wheel is bad. Is there anywhere I can get a new one without ordering a whole new light engine?

I figured it out, a connector had come loose on the light engine. However, my color wheel is bad. Is there anywhere I can get a new one without ordering a whole new light engine?

Tristatemodule has rebuilt light engines that are at least half the prices I've seen elsewhere. $375 w/exchange.

Thanks for the tip! I am going to inquire with them to buy a color wheel only. Still $375 is cheaper than the $460 partstore charges. Tristate gives a warrentee too.

Anyone know how to open a 46hm95 up and clean out some dust inside?

There is a lower cover on the back that takes 13 screws to remove. It goes across the lower back and wraps around the sides.

What prompted you to want to do this? Let us know the outcome! Increased PQ?

There is a lower cover on the back that takes 13 screws to remove. It goes across the lower back and wraps around the sides.

Thanks, looks like that will be my project this weekend. Clean the dust out :(

Hey All,

Does anyone have the defualt values for the service menu. I changed a few settings without realising (pressed the menu up/down keys instead of channel up/down). When I realised what I had done I went in and adjusted everything based on if it looked better or not! My PQ actually is alot better now, however it'd be nice to have all the defaults or reset instructions just in case....

Thanks

What prompted you to want to do this? Let us know the outcome! Increased PQ?

I did this on my 52HM94 about 6 months ago, huge difference. I live in a very dusty environment and the build-up on the projection lense was the equivalent of a really dark ND filter. YMMV

I did this on my 52HM94 about 6 months ago, huge difference. I live in a very dusty environment and the build-up on the projection lense was the equivalent of a really dark ND filter. YMMV

What do you recommend I use to clean the dust out?

1. Vacuum
2. Canned Air
3. ?

Hello all. I've had my 52hm84 since 05. Love the picture quality. This is my 3rb bulb i'm on. About 2 months ago, I replaced the ballast myself. What a pain. Last night I got the blank screen again. Bulb looks fine. My question is there any way to tell if the ballast is bad again or if the light engine has failed. When the ballast when out, I had a buzzing noise upon tv startup and picture. Now, there is just a blank screen with audio and the tv does the restart thing 10 times. Thanks

Just wondering if anyone else has been expericing picture drop outs with the combination of a Toshiba DLP + Samsung BD-P1400 bluray player. My TV is the 50" 50HM67, here are the configurations I've tested.

Samsung hooked directly into TV via HDMI (optical audio out to my old JVC 5.1 system). Resulted in drop outs on a host of bluray movies including Ice Age 2, PTOC AWE.

Samsung BD hooked into Onkyo TR-SX605 via HDMI, monitor out enabled on 605, TV receives HDMI video signal from the Onkyo. Drop outs still occur.

I've updated my sammy to the latest firmware just recently, still get drop outs. I can't be sure but I think *perhaps* the last update might have made it not quite as bad.

Just wondering if anyone else has been expericing picture drop outs with the combination of a Toshiba DLP + Samsung BD-P1400 bluray player. My TV is the 50" 50HM67, here are the configurations I've tested.

Samsung hooked directly into TV via HDMI (optical audio out to my old JVC 5.1 system). Resulted in drop outs on a host of bluray movies including Ice Age 2, PTOC AWE.

Samsung BD hooked into Onkyo TR-SX605 via HDMI, monitor out enabled on 605, TV receives HDMI video signal from the Onkyo. Drop outs still occur.

I've updated my sammy to the latest firmware just recently, still get drop outs. I can't be sure but I think *perhaps* the last update might have made it not quite as bad.
hate to say it, but my guess is it's the player... samsung doesn't have the best track record with blu-ray... :(

Thanks very much, i guess I'll deal until there's an affordable 2.0 player... at least hd dvd is flawless on my hd-a30 :)

Update on my 56HM195, I had to buy a new light engine for $400. However, the tv works great now, and picture looks like a new TV.

What do you recommend I use to clean the dust out?

1. Vacuum
2. Canned Air
3. ?

Actually, I had to rub it off with q-tips. The dust particles were "cooked" onto the lens and blowing on it did nothing.

Update on my 56HM195, I had to buy a new light engine for $400. However, the tv works great now, and picture looks like a new TV.

Thanks for the update. Any problems installing the LE?

Nice! Glad it worked out for you, what happened with the original LE..

For the Love of God, someone has to have this same problem...


I have this same issues on the 46hm95! Someone help!

Thanks for the update. Any problems installing the LE?

No problems, and I didn't have to adjust anything in the service menu. However, I have noticed on a full black screen, the right side is a little brighter than the left. Not sure why this is. I can't think of anything I could have done to cause it, or how to adjust it. Is there even a way to adjust the grayscale of this tv?

No problems, and I didn't have to adjust anything in the service menu. However, I have noticed on a full black screen, the right side is a little brighter than the left. Not sure why this is. I can't think of anything I could have done to cause it, or how to adjust it. Is there even a way to adjust the grayscale of this tv?Piece called the "light tunnel" on your newly installed LE is out of adjustment. You can live with it though.:)

Ah ic, nothing I can do?

No problems, and I didn't have to adjust anything in the service menu. However, I have noticed on a full black screen, the right side is a little brighter than the left. Not sure why this is. I can't think of anything I could have done to cause it, or how to adjust it. Is there even a way to adjust the grayscale of this tv?

Grayscale is adjustable, but as already mentioned, it sounds like a light path issue.

Can anyone help me get the front screen off my tv?

I read around a bit, and I was able to get the top part of the screen detached, but couldn't figure out how to get the bottom detached so I can completely remove the screen for cleaning.

Someone said they took off some screws on the bottom of the TV, but still weren't able to completely take it off.

Any ideas?

Can anyone help me get the front screen off my tv?

I read around a bit, and I was able to get the top part of the screen detached, but couldn't figure out how to get the bottom detached so I can completely remove the screen for cleaning.

Someone said they took off some screws on the bottom of the TV, but still weren't able to completely take it off.

Any ideas?

I looked at the service manual for my TV (52HM95) and it seems to require a little bit of effort. Since I don't know what TV you have, you might try Ebay for a service manual for your particular set. Several sellers have instant downloads of various Toshiba DLP service manuals. The manuals don't give step by step instruction but they do show exploded views and the number of screws and parts that need to be removed.

I had a PS3 installed to my 46hm95 via HDMI.
Playing games on it were no problem and looked great.

When a Blu-Ray DVD movie was put in, it did not work.

The tv seemed to be having a problem finding what setting to display.
It was blinking the menu info constantly. No audio or video.

I tried other inputs into my tv with different devices and they all worked.

Is it because the blu-ray dvd is 1080p?

I have a PS3 and haven't had that problem with my 62hm195.

Well, my bulb finally went out on my 50hm66. Only lasted 15 months. I know it's over 6000 hours though. No extended warranty. Purchased from Best Buy. I checked my serial number and it's not included in any recall for the bulb. I guess reading most of these posts, I'm happy with how long it lasted, but I can't be spending $200 on a bulb every year. Will I have any luck with calling Toshiba or Best Buy? I'm going to anyways, but just want to know if I'll get the runaround...

Well, I think 6000 hours is quite remarkable. I doubt you will have much of a case to argue with Toshiba, but it can't hurt to ask. I just changed my 19 month, 3300 hour bulb on my 62HM116 today, and I thought I did well with those numbers. Heck, I thought my family watched a lot of TV, but you folks have us beat by a mile.

Good luck with Toshiba.

R7

Well, my bulb finally went out on my 50hm66. Only lasted 15 months. I know it's over 6000 hours though. No extended warranty. Purchased from Best Buy. I checked my serial number and it's not included in any recall for the bulb. I guess reading most of these posts, I'm happy with how long it lasted, but I can't be spending $200 on a bulb every year. Will I have any luck with calling Toshiba or Best Buy? I'm going to anyways, but just want to know if I'll get the runaround...

Information regarding bulb life is easily accessible in the owner's literature. It clearly states life expectancy at 6000-8000 hours. Not sure what you expect to get from Tosh when you confront them with the fact that their product performed as expected.

Well, I sent my 52HMX85 off with the service depot today. :( It developed this green/purple mark about the size of a golf ball (picture the color of a really bad bruise) on the top of the screen, about two thirds over. It's not that easy to see on darker backgrounds, but on light ones it drives me nuts. Had a tech come out last week, couldn't tell me what the cause was, so today they took it to the depot.

I'm having withdrawl already. :o

Well, yesterday I posted that I replaced the lamp after 3000 plus hours and tonight the new lamp no longer works. Eek! (That is in replacement for my four letter expletive I really meant!) Anyway, I bought the bulb online from Lamps-dlp.com at the end of January. I have contacted them, but it was after hours. I will report back on how they respond. Fortunately, my old but still has some life in it and I still have a working set, for now. I am really surprised that their has been no class action suit against all the companies who made DLP's and told folks the bulbs would last from 6 to 8 thousand hours.

Cheers!

R7

I heard back from Lamps-DLP.com today, and they said thier warranty was for 60 days, which has expired and they referred me to Toshiba. Toshiba has agreed to replace the bulb as it is a Toshiba product and has a 180 day warranty. If I had kept the bulb without using it for 6 months and then found out it was defective, I would have been out of luck. Any of you folks with a replacement bulb I suggest you give it a good work out before the warranty expires. This sort of puts a crimp into having a spare bulb.

I also noticed something else that is troubling. The replacement bulb was identical in every respect with one notable exception. On my older bulb, where the filament attaches to the top of the bulb there is a small half inch long strip of filament that is white and about twice as thick has the rest of the filament. The replacement bulb did not have this. I am wondering if there has been a change in the bulb design and which is the newer design. I will see what the new bulb from Toshiba looks like. I will post again when I get the new one from Toshiba.

Cheers!

R7

I have a 52HM84 and it has been a great TV. Just recently I have been noticing a white shadow on the middle bottom of the screen shaped like a triangle. You don't really notice it that much except during certain scenes and if you approach the tv from the side. I recently replaced the lamp, but that did not seem to have any effect. Does anybody remember seeing any posts about this, or have an idea what the cause may be?

My TV looks like it is having problems processing the signal or something like that. Basically half the screen will go green and then it jumps back to displaying the entire picture. It goes in spells too, where it has alot of trouble displaying the picture, then a new scene will start and everything is fine. I have the problem over HDMI and component as well. The component is connected to my receiver and the HDMI is direct from my DVD player. It has displayed the same problem whether watching a DVD, TV, or playing Xbox. Has anyone seen anything like this or have a clue as to what the problem may be? Thanks in advance.

52HM95.......

Can someone explain the shutdown on these sets. When I turn off the TV the fan(s) continue to run for 5 minutes or so. From what I understand, this is for the "quick on/resume" bulb function.

Does the color wheel/light engine continue to run also when shutoff for that additional 5 mins? I ask because my fan assembly next to the bulb appears to be making a terrible whining sound as if the bearing is going bad or is just dirty.

The HD picture quality is still fantastic, not a problem with over 2+ years of service (other than the usual bulb change) which makes me lean towards the LE not being a cause of concern.

Is there a DIY from anybody around here that has removed the complete back cover on these sets. It appears the only way to get to the bulb fan is to remove the back cover.

HELP!!!

52HM95.......

Can someone explain the shutdown on these sets. When I turn off the TV the fan(s) continue to run for 5 minutes or so. From what I understand, this is for the "quick on/resume" bulb function.

Does the color wheel/light engine continue to run also when shutoff for that additional 5 mins? I ask because my fan assembly next to the bulb appears to be making a terrible whining sound as if the bearing is going bad or is just dirty.

The HD picture quality is still fantastic, not a problem with over 2+ years of service (other than the usual bulb change) which makes me lean towards the LE not being a cause of concern.

Is there a DIY from anybody around here that has removed the complete back cover on these sets. It appears the only way to get to the bulb fan is to remove the back cover.

HELP!!!
Everyone is having the same problem. But to get at the lamp there is a side panel with one thumb screw, loosen and remove, two phillips head screws hold assembly in, carefully pull back,

Does anyone know where to purchase the color wheel for the 52HM95? They say you have to buy the whole light engine. I have already helped to bail out Toshiba, I am on my 4th lamp in 26 months,at 200. 00 a pop, now 500.00. What Next?

Go to Tristatemodule online. They have the light engines for your 52HM95. Looks like repairing yours is $200 and purchasing outright is $250. This is a great price. Make sure you go to ebay and find a service manual for your TV. The service manual is a requirement if you are going to change out the light engine yourself. Let us know how it goes. Mine is starting to make noise too, so I may be replacing mine this year. The part # appears to be: 23405474 but you may want to double check this.

I have a copy of the service manual, and it doesn't have any info on how to replace the color wheel, but rather just the whole LE assembly. This is the assembly with all the fans, a color wheel and a few other parts. Not cheap...like 460 bucks.

You will need the service manual to set-up the new hexidecimals for the CLDH (color wheel delay high) and CWDL (color wheel delay low), as each color wheel is slightly different in terms of rotational speed. There will be a bar code affixed with the new assembly with the numbers that have to be converted to hex and the programmed into service menu options after installation.

I suppose one could just throw in a new wheel assembly, but I didn't see any reference to it in the manual.

Everyone is having the same problem. But to get at the lamp there is a side panel with one thumb screw, loosen and remove, two phillips head screws hold assembly in, carefully pull back,

My lamp is fine...... I have only replaced my lamp once, as my first lasted 3 years, and just got replace Jan 08. It's one of the fans thats whining is my problem...but I now know what to do to get to them.

52HM95.......

Can someone explain the shutdown on these sets. When I turn off the TV the fan(s) continue to run for 5 minutes or so. From what I understand, this is for the "quick on/resume" bulb function.

Does the color wheel/light engine continue to run also when shutoff for that additional 5 mins? I ask because my fan assembly next to the bulb appears to be making a terrible whining sound as if the bearing is going bad or is just dirty.

The HD picture quality is still fantastic, not a problem with over 2+ years of service (other than the usual bulb change) which makes me lean towards the LE not being a cause of concern.

Is there a DIY from anybody around here that has removed the complete back cover on these sets. It appears the only way to get to the bulb fan is to remove the back cover.

HELP!!!

I believe the color wheel goes off immediately but the light cooling fan does stay on for five minutes or so. There is a lower wrap around plastic bezel that can be removed on these sets in addition to the door for the bulb.

I believe the color wheel goes off immediately but the light cooling fan does stay on for five minutes or so. There is a lower wrap around plastic bezel that can be removed on these sets in addition to the door for the bulb.

Yes, thank you. 13 screws and your in. 2 screws to pull out LE assembly and then 4 screws for removing the bulb fan off the assembly.

I bought one, going to replace this weekend.. hope it eliminates the whining sound. Thing is, there are like 4 other fans on the LE and I hope I got the right one. LOL......finger crossed.

While I have the LE out, I'am going to remove all the fans and clean them. I sure hope this quiets it down.

Yes, thank you. 13 screws and your in. 2 screws to pull out LE assembly and then 4 screws for removing the bulb fan off the assembly.

I bought one, going to replace this weekend.. hope it eliminates the whining sound. Thing is, there are like 4 other fans on the LE and I hope I got the right one. LOL......finger crossed.

While I have the LE out, I'am going to remove all the fans and clean them. I sure hope this quiets it down.

Careful on not to touch the fish eye len on top of the LE.

Yes, thank you. 13 screws and your in. 2 screws to pull out LE assembly and then 4 screws for removing the bulb fan off the assembly.

I bought one, going to replace this weekend.. hope it eliminates the whining sound. Thing is, there are like 4 other fans on the LE and I hope I got the right one. LOL......finger crossed.

While I have the LE out, I'am going to remove all the fans and clean them. I sure hope this quiets it down.

What was the outcome of your LE replacement?

Had a brown out during a thunderstorm fried my HDMI inputs, everything else seems fine...Local company wants 804.00 parts and labor to fix...
Looking for opinions...
To fix or just buy new led dlp? Won't have to worry about replacing bulb etc....

Greetings all.

I have a 1 1/2 year old Toshiba 52" DLP (Best buy), which is used for XBox 360 gaming about 95% of the time. We tend to leave it on even when not in use (except at night), as I understood that repeated heating and cooling of the components shortens their life. It has, I'm guessing 5000 hours use.

In the last couple of months the picture darkens then lightens back up in what seem to be irregular intervals.

Is this a bad thing? What does this indicate and what is the fix?

Thanks.

That probably just means the bulb is going and will need replacement. Which is pretty typical. They cost about $250-$300 online, rather more from dealers. Might be a good idea to get one before you need it so when it goes, you aren't waiting TVless for two weeks for it to come in the mail (or paying extra for overnight shipping).

Don't leave the TV on when you're not using it. The TV already takes care of itself with the warm-up and cool-down; all you're doing is wasting a lot of energy and some bulb life.

Hunter Green is right. The same thing happened to me, started getting occasional flickers (usually when it was starting up). I went ahead and ordered a new bulb, but I was surprised how long the old one lasted in the flickering state. I think I probably got an additional 6-10 months usage before it finally blew and I had to replace it (not sure actual bulb hours).

That's where I am now -- on Low power mode it blinks impossibly, but in High Bright, it works fine, for about three months now.

Hey guys, I recently uploaded the latest firmware (1.6.5) for the: 51H94, 51HX94, 57H94, 57HX94, 46HM94, 52HM94, 52HMX94, 62HM94, 62HM15, 62HM15B, 62HMX94

dlp dot brienware dot com

I can't post a link to the thread because this forum won't let me until I have three posts. You can search for my posting if you search for my member name.

:)Did a search of this thread, but did not come up with anything. Have a 52HM84 (DOP 08/2004) with over 7.5K hours on the lamp & still going! To get this use a UPS with AC filter & voltage regulator (true sine wave output) & it will extend the lamp hours as mine will have been going for four (4) years come August. Also, run lamp at low power.

However, before my extended warranty expired I was able to get the warranty folks to send me a new lamp. I'm going to put the new one in & keep the existing one as a "spare" since I know it is still good though used. In any event does anyone know how to reset the lamp hour indicator to zero (0) when the new lamp is installed? Otherwise I guess you write down the hours before you change it, assuming the lamp is not out already, and go from there.

Thanks for any input.:)

Hi All. Long time member..but I don't post very often. I've been having a problem that I've searched the internet and this forum for years now. I am going to call the extended warranty folks today, but I thought I would give this forum a shot first.

I have a 52HMX94. Connected to it is a DirecTV H21 Sat box (used to be an Explorer 8300 cable box ..or 8200..I can't remember.. but the TV had the same issue) connected via component. I have a PS3 connected via HDMI. I also have an Oppo DVD player connected via HDMI, but I am no longer using it.

My problem is, if I turn the PS3 on either before or after the sat box is on, and try to watch the sat, the display blinks on and off rapidly. It's irregular...no specific time pattern. It's very annoying..and TV becomes unwatchable. If I turn the PS3 off OR unplug it's HDMI cable, the TV continues to do it. I have to power down the TV in order for it to stop. It's not the bulb...the TV works fine while playing the PS3 or watching Sat with the PS3. It's only when watching the component input with the PS3 on.

I thought this might be some sort of HDCP issue..but I'm not watching any movies when this happens. I am just powering on the PS3. If the TV is blinking and I switch to the PS3 input, it's A-OK...until I switch back to component.

Anyone experience this?

Where can I find the firmware for my 56HM195? Would it be worth it for me to upgrade the firmware? I've seen a few posts about people bricking their sets and mine is out of warranty.

Hi All. Long time member..but I don't post very often. I've been having a problem that I've searched the internet and this forum for years now. I am going to call the extended warranty folks today, but I thought I would give this forum a shot first.

I have a 52HMX94. Connected to it is a DirecTV H21 Sat box (used to be an Explorer 8300 cable box ..or 8200..I can't remember.. but the TV had the same issue) connected via component. I have a PS3 connected via HDMI. I also have an Oppo DVD player connected via HDMI, but I am no longer using it.

My problem is, if I turn the PS3 on either before or after the sat box is on, and try to watch the sat, the display blinks on and off rapidly. It's irregular...no specific time pattern. It's very annoying..and TV becomes unwatchable. If I turn the PS3 off OR unplug it's HDMI cable, the TV continues to do it. I have to power down the TV in order for it to stop. It's not the bulb...the TV works fine while playing the PS3 or watching Sat with the PS3. It's only when watching the component input with the PS3 on.

I thought this might be some sort of HDCP issue..but I'm not watching any movies when this happens. I am just powering on the PS3. If the TV is blinking and I switch to the PS3 input, it's A-OK...until I switch back to component.

Anyone experience this?
Quick update..

Tech came out and said it's possibly the Seine board..and that he can do it in house. He leaves, and says I'll hear from someone. I get a call later that states the repair is too expensive..and that they will offer me a cash settlement of $900. For a problem I can live with, I guess I'll take the money and run.

That sucks though..I need to read the fine print on the extended warranty. I thought that's what they were there for!!!

Hi All. I have a similar issue with my Toshiba 65HM167. We went on vacation and as I normally do, I unplugged all my TVs. This is the only one that will not power up. The yellow light for the lamp flashes three times every 10 seconds or so. I called Toshiba and they have no idea why, but say it is not the lamp. This happened once before and I called Toshiba and a different rep told me how to "trick" the tv to reboot, and it worked. Unfortunately, like an idiot I did not write it down. Naturally, my warranty expired one month ago. ANY help is appreciated, thank you! FYI, I also tried disconnecting both HDMI and cable, and nothing.

Hmm, have no idea but try calling Toshiba again. I'd be pissed off and kick the TV if it does that crap on me though ;)

Anyone know the part number for a DMD board for the 52HM84?

I have the manuals and schematics and the DMD board is represented in the schematics but not in any other way that I recognize with a part number.

Hey all,

Long-time lurker, first time poster...

I have a Toshiba 50HM67 that just stopped displaying video through all the inputs. I'm getting a steady blue light on the front and I can see the on-screen menus just fine. I even get the closed captioning in a text box. I'm also still getting sound to the TV from the HDMI connections (both cable box and DVD player)

Unfortunately I'm not getting any video. At all. PC/VGA, Composite, HDMI, all of my inputs just show a black screen.

This doesn't seem like a lamp/bulb issue because I see the on-screen menus fine and I'm getting just a normal steady blue light on the front of my TV.

Any guesses out there as to what it could be?

Another issue: I'm currently 1 month and 10 days over my 1-year warranty. I called up Toshiba and their service guy seemed optimistic that I could get a warranty extension if I faxed in my receipt and a cover letter explaining my situation. Does anyone here have any experience with this kind of scenario? Any tips?

Thanks all, any advice would be much appreciated.

Turn TV off, let lamp cool down completely, then unplug tv from electric outlet for 5 minutes. Plug in, turn on...it should be all right. Mine does this about once every 2 mths....no one can tell me why.

Turn TV off, let lamp cool down completely, then unplug tv from electric outlet for 5 minutes. Plug in, turn on...it should be all right. Mine does this about once every 2 mths....no one can tell me why.

Yep, that completely fixed it. Thanks so much for the help, really appreciated. I'm not sure why I didn't think about just unplugging the damn thing :o

Do you have any idea of what the problem is? I don't know much about the inner workings of DLPs, but it seems like it must be some video processing chip issue if a cold reset fixes it.

How many times has it happened to you?

Yep, that completely fixed it. Thanks so much for the help, really appreciated. I'm not sure why I didn't think about just unplugging the damn thing :o

Do you have any idea of what the problem is? I don't know much about the inner workings of DLPs, but it seems like it must be some video processing chip issue if a cold reset fixes it.

How many times has it happened to you?

I use to have this problem until I began using a battery backup power unit. In my case I think it was electric power blips that were causing my issues.

I'm getting verticle while lines one inch apart all across the TV (52HM84). I was told it was DMD failure here:

fixya.com/support/t759015-white_vert_lines_1_inch_apart_toshiba

but I don't know what part to replace as there is nothing recognized as a DMD board or part. Has anyone had this problem? I have searched and called like a madman but to no avail.

Does anyone have an idea on how to get the tv off standby mode.yellow light blinks and does not power up with remote or manually. thanks

I use to have this problem until I began using a battery backup power unit. In my case I think it was electric power blips that were causing my issues.

Interesting ... I'm in an old house right now with old wiring, and having to use a 2-prong to 3-prong adapter just to hook up a power strip ... I'm guessing this might be the source of my problems

Moving this fall and will probably upgrade my A/V and computer systems to some UPS backup units, hopefully that will help

Well this sucks.

46HM95 thats been nothing but trouble since I bought it, finally crapped out today.

Turns on, red light solid, and does the ever so annoying 'Green light flashing', reboots, 'Green light flashing', reboots... etc. Does this about 10 times, then comes back on and just flashes the red and green light in sync endlessly.

Bulb looks pristine (surprising considering how many I've gone through now - I believe I'm up to either #4 or #5 in 2.5 years) Every other time the bulb was clearly blown, this time, it looks fine. Recently it was doing the same rebooting thing, but after the 3rd reboot it would come on ok. Today, no luck. Power Supply maybe? I dunno.

I'm done buying new bulbs and parts for this thing. Just sick of it. When I had problems in the past while under warranty, all Toshiba would do is refer me to two not-very-local repair stores that would never return my call (and both were over an hour away so I couldn't just stop by with the TV). Calls to Toshiba at the time were useless, they said the local shops were all I could do. The problems eventually went away on their own, so I gave up calling the shops.

Of course, months later, after the warranty, the problems cropped up again. Toshiba wouldn't do squat. Got managers on the phone, managers of managers, etc. Nothing, no help what-so-ever.

Shame on me for not buying an extended warranty from BB, but shame on Toshiba for making a clearly inferior product. I'll gladly speak with my wallet and never buy another Toshiba product again, as well as make sure none of my friends do as well.

Guess its a good thing BB just sent 12% off coupons today. Gonna get myself a more reliable brand.

My 2yr. old 72hm195 has developed a weird problem. The lower half of the screen has what appears to be moving interference all across it. The top half of the picture is perfect and you can still see the bottom half of the picture through the interference. the interference is small rectangular blocks in a perfect grid--completely across the bottom half. I would appreciate any help. I can't get a repairman to come--they all want me to bring it in! I'm out of warranty. Thanks.

Hi all!

Just got through reading 50+ pages of this thread, and while i'm impressed at the wealth of knowledge and cooperation found here, i'm still depressed i didn't see my specific problem mentioned, so here goes.....

46HM95, Nov 2005, on my 2nd bulb, for over a year now.

A couple months ago, i noticed many more visual artifacts, especially in darker scenes, which i'll call (pardon my lack of lingo) the Paint By Numbers Effect. It's basically a loss of clarity/definition, often in skin tones and darker shades, giving a topographic or paint by numbers, pixellated type representation of differing bright/light levels.

That was all well and good compared to what's happening now, which is a white flickering/flashing across the screen, usually starting around 20 minutes into viewing, which then quickly degrades into a purplish flashing and a generally unwatchable presentation.

What say you? I'm in your hands (and bracing for the worst)

Many thanks,
-john

Hey guys,

4HM66 here. Just replaced my lamp. I took out one that says SHP87 and the new one I got from eBay says SHP66. How do I know for sure this one is a newer version and not the crappy ones they recalled?

Also, how do I access the hidden menu to be able to see howmany hours I had?

I've started to have a strange problem with my 52HM84 and I hope that someone may be able to help me with it. When I went to watch TV tonight, I turned it on and had the following problem. The TV turns on but I don't get a picture. After a few seconds, the green standby button starts to flash and then the TV power cycles itself. It keeps doing this. This happened a couple weeks ago and after I let the TV sit for a while I turned on fine. Has this happened to anyone else before? Is it a sign that the TV is dying?

I've had that a dozen or so times, but it always recovered after it sat a few minutes.

Has this happened to anyone else before?

Yes.

Is it a sign that the TV is dying?

Don't know.

:)Well folks, after four (4) years to the day I finally replaced the lamp in my 52HM84 (DOP 8/04). I called the extended warranty firm told them the lamp had failed & they sent me a new one. Did this so I could get one before the warranty ran out. Now my original lamp will be my spare in case it is needed.

Some Facts:

* 7,545 hours on original lamp
* Software Version 46 (7/16/2004)
* Lamp in low power mode from day one
* TV connected to a UPS with filtered & regulated AC (I do believe this has helped the lamp life)

Have nothing but praise for my set since day one! No problems of any kind at any time during it's first four years of life!

2-3 years out of this new lamp & I'll have gotten quality service life out of the TV & be ready for a new TV.

My apologies to those in these 250+ pages that have posted problems, but this is one praise report for the Toshiba 52HM84.:)

I'm not sure if anyone even reads this thead anymore, but I thought I'd give it a try.

This morning I turned on the TV to watch the news as I was getting ready for work and when I turned it on there was no click, no noise and just the red flashing light. According to the manual this needs to be fixed by a Toshiba technician but did suggest unplugging/plugging it in and trying it again.

This did work in the morning, but when my wife went to turn it on again it had the exact same problem. Unplugging/plugging back in seemed to "fix" it again, but I suspect this is not the end of the problem.

The only thing that has changed was that I recently added a Monoprice 4port HDMI switch, but I can't imagine why this would cause any problems.


My question is what are some of the likely causes of the flashing red light and what the estimated cost of repair? If it's going to be $1000 to fix it, I'm just going to buy a new set but I'd rather keep this set and save the money.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Need Service Manual for 46HM84.. anyone have one? I dont want to pay the 30.00 they want for on ebay.

I think my ballast may be bad since i am getting the red solid light and green blinking light 8 times and new bulbs are not remedying the problem. I have had a replacement bulb come in already and that didnt work even though the bulb looked fine. So I am thinking it is the ballast.. i found the ballast at the partstore.com for about 60.00 shipped (which isnt too bad)..

Does that sound like a bad ballast? How do i test a bad ballast? Or can someone just give me detailed instructions on how to change it out?

THanks in advanced!

never mind found the service manual!

Need Service Manual for 46HM84...I have had a replacement bulb come in already and that didnt work even though the bulb looked fine...Does that sound like a bad ballast? How do i test a bad ballast? Or can someone just give me detailed instructions on how to change it out?...

Yep, it does sound like a bad ballast, just the bad part when my new lamp didn't work either. I advice anyone with these TVs to at least check the ballast when the lamp goes.

I think that when the lamp blows it takes the ballast with it, so a better advice would be to replace the lamp when symptons begin. You can see some change in intensity, up-downs, during viewings a few weeks before the lamp blowing; that's the time to replace it.

You should try the service manual in eBay, that's where my friend and I got it. My friend replaced the ballast himself, took him 2 hours but saved the money from the tech. I told him to explain here the steps, so this maybe the perfect opportunity, you should ask him too.

Look for hagerfoot, I'll ask him to check this thread also.

Good Luck.

Did you find a soltuion for this? I have the same issue.

I have a 52HM84 and it has been a great TV. Just recently I have been noticing a white shadow on the middle bottom of the screen shaped like a triangle. You don't really notice it that much except during certain scenes and if you approach the tv from the side. I recently replaced the lamp, but that did not seem to have any effect. Does anybody remember seeing any posts about this, or have an idea what the cause may be?

Thanks Julio for replying! I suprised that the ballast was only 50.00!!

Yep, it does sound like a bad ballast, just the bad part when my new lamp didn't work either. I advice anyone with these TVs to at least check the ballast when the lamp goes.

I think that when the lamp blows it takes the ballast with it, so a better advice would be to replace the lamp when symptons begin. You can see some change in intensity, up-downs, during viewings a few weeks before the lamp blowing; that's the time to replace it.

You should try the service manual in eBay, that's where my friend and I got it. My friend replaced the ballast himself, took him 2 hours but saved the money from the tech. I told him to explain here the steps, so this maybe the perfect opportunity, you should ask him too.

Look for hagerfoot, I'll ask him to check this thread also.

Good Luck.

Oh yeah.. just in case anyone needs it, here is where I purchased my ballast from:
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/46HM84/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468/New.aspx

It works for the following TVs: Toshiba 46HM84, Toshiba 52HM94, Toshiba 62HM14, Toshiba 62HM94, Toshiba 46HM94, Toshiba 52HMX84, Toshiba 62HM15, Toshiba 62HMX84, Toshiba 52HM84, Toshiba 52HMX94, Toshiba 62HM84, Toshiba 62HMX94

And with a google search I found the service manual here (looks pretty easy to change out the ballast):
http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/52HM84.pdf

wish me luck! I should be getting the parts in by the end of the week!

I am on lamp #3 (2nd replacement) with my Toshiba 52HM84. They seem to last approx. 2 years at my house, where the television is on 17-18 hours every day. That's around 12k hours/bulb.

I've been happy with the set. It's leaving in about a year because I am going to snag a 1080p Mits, but the Toshiba has been reliable. The only problem it has developed is a small smudge in the center of the screen, probably due to dust on the mirror. If I wasn't intimidated by the thought of doing so, I would open the housing and clean it and replace the seal, but it's probably not even noticeable to other people.

I just installed a ballast on the 52HM84. Let me know if you need any advice or have any questions. Couple of thoughts:


This is much easier if you can get someone to help you
The back panel comes off pretty easy, just need to get to all the screws
Pull the lamp out first. The ballast is "behind" the lamp when looking from the back of the tv.
The tray with the light engine comes out, you need to unscrew it from the tv frame. Look out for the black plastic in front of the lens. There is one small screw.
All the cables are unique, so don't worry if you forget to write them down
Be careful with the thin cable that is closest to you when you open up the tv. It is connected to a silver rectangular thing (don't know what it does). There is a small lock (lever) on one of the sides.
Also be careful with the door lock sensor cable. It connects to the board on the left side of the tv. Its easy to pull off and if you do and don't catch it, you'll get the blinking green light that indicated the door isn't closed (cost me 45 minutes to figure that out.)
The ballast installs pretty easy. Getting it screwed back in is tough, just awkward positions.


Hope this helps. PM me if you have other questions.

Thanks Julio for alerting me.

-Matt

I have a Toshiba 50hm67 dlp rear projection tv that i have owned for about a year and i have encountered a problem. When a power outage occurs the tv shuts off until it reboots as indicated by a flashing yellow led on the front. but now it is not restarting and the flashing light is the only activity i get from the tv. The lamp is fine. I have tried unplugging it and all other sensible ways, i just dont know what else to do.? any advice other than taking in to get it worked on.

I have a Toshiba 50hm67 dlp rear projection tv that i have owned for about a year and i have encountered a problem. When a power outage occurs the tv shuts off until it reboots as indicated by a flashing yellow led on the front. but now it is not restarting and the flashing light is the only activity i get from the tv. The lamp is fine. I have tried unplugging it and all other sensible ways, i just dont know what else to do.? any advice other than taking in to get it worked on.

Sickening. My tv just blew its 6 or 7th bulb in LESS than three years. (I've lost count now).

In my previous post a few back, the bulb actually wasn't blown. I was able to get it to work again by just leaving the tv unplugged for about a week, only to have it blow the bulb for real about a week later. Friend let me borrow the bulb from his dead 46HM95 (yep, his is dead too), lasted about two weeks until my TV blew that one as well tonight.

Wow. Never again. I wouldn't touch another Toshiba product if you paid me to. Horrible company. Horrible products.

Hey everyone, my Tosh 62HM84 is about 5 years old, and just this week started making an electrical hissing sound from where the lamp is. I got the normal warning lights telling me that there's a problem with the lamp, so I ordered one and replaced it (although it's the 2nd time, and a little sooner than I was expecting based on how long my 1st one lasted - this is my home theater, and not my "every day" set) ... I got the new lamp in, replaced it ... and I'm getting the same sound and warning lights and the set will not light up ... uggghhhhhh ...... any ideas??? HELP! NFL starts tomorrow and I got a house full coming!!!!!

Hey everyone, my Tosh 62HM84 is about 5 years old, and just this week started making an electrical hissing sound from where the lamp is. I got the normal warning lights telling me that there's a problem with the lamp, so I ordered one and replaced it (although it's the 2nd time, and a little sooner than I was expecting based on how long my 1st one lasted - this is my home theater, and not my "every day" set) ... I got the new lamp in, replaced it ... and I'm getting the same sound and warning lights and the set will not light up ... uggghhhhhh ...... any ideas??? HELP! NFL starts tomorrow and I got a house full coming!!!!!

Could you describe the "hissing" as a "buzzing"? If so, it looks like your lamp ballast may have gone out. They are far less expensive than the lamp and most likely could be overnighted. Search this forum for "ballast".

alright guys, ive had my h2hmx94 for about 4 years now, bought it at school...the other day it had some water spilt on it..and i now have 2 tinted spots..it seems as if someone put tint over these parts

here is a quick diagram
my tv is square..lol
the tinted part is on the bottom half of my tv
theres a circle like this O <----the tint seems as if its placed on the bottom half outer edge of the circle and then once you look passed the tint its as if there is a shadow on each end of the tint, or more or less a lighter tint on the edges of the dark tint.
this all started after the water

Just a quick post stemming from some dissatisfaction with my 52HM84.

I just purchased a new Onkyo TX-SR706 receiver so I could get all my toys routed through HDMI -- TW cable box, Xbox 360, DVD player.

Well, these hm84 series Toshibas will not play nice with the Onkyo.

I found another thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022038) outlining more detail. Basically, if you disable audio output to the Toshiba via HDMI, you get NO picture.

I am going to try and replace the HDMI board to see if it fixes it... but I basically had to bypass all the HDMI benefits of my beastly 706 because Toshiba messed up with it's initial offering of the HDMI interface. Sucks.

Has anybody else had this problem or what is causing this and how I fix it. I have the 65 hm 167 and last night I sat down to watch tv and the colors were all weird. I tried changing the picture settings and nothing worked. The red is almost brown or black and people have like a green tint to them and green isnt very green. Basically last night the redskins pants looked black the feild was not very green giants blue was bright probably normal yellow seemed to be ok. Also noticed that there were waves throught the picture when the volume was up and it got worse the louder it got. thanks anyhelp would be greatly appreciated

Just installed the new ballast with some of your tips!!!! OMG I am sooo happy. I almost cried when I saw the screen light up!! lol It has been almost a month without the TV lol. I am sick of watching TV in the bedroom. for 50.00 bucks this is the cheapest fix on the TV! I suggest you guys look into this before blowing out all your bulbs..

I just installed a ballast on the 52HM84. Let me know if you need any advice or have any questions. Couple of thoughts:


This is much easier if you can get someone to help you
The back panel comes off pretty easy, just need to get to all the screws
Pull the lamp out first. The ballast is "behind" the lamp when looking from the back of the tv.
The tray with the light engine comes out, you need to unscrew it from the tv frame. Look out for the black plastic in front of the lens. There is one small screw.
All the cables are unique, so don't worry if you forget to write them down
Be careful with the thin cable that is closest to you when you open up the tv. It is connected to a silver rectangular thing (don't know what it does). There is a small lock (lever) on one of the sides.
Also be careful with the door lock sensor cable. It connects to the board on the left side of the tv. Its easy to pull off and if you do and don't catch it, you'll get the blinking green light that indicated the door isn't closed (cost me 45 minutes to figure that out.)
The ballast installs pretty easy. Getting it screwed back in is tough, just awkward positions.


Hope this helps. PM me if you have other questions.

Thanks Julio for alerting me.

-Matt

The lamp finally blew last night. Fortunately the replacement I ordered last year went in pretty quick (it's surprisingly easy to do), and we're back in business, and stunned by how much brighter it is. I guess the lamps gradually dim and you don't realize it, but it's amazing just how much, really. Even after switch back to Low Power, it's dazzlingly bright.

Now I guess I have to order a new backup lamp.

the pictures freezes randomly with buzzing noise. the sound will continue as usual. sometimes the picture will come back on its own, sometimes will need to restart the TV. the light engine was replaced in past and it is out of warranty. i do not have resources to put more money in repairs.

my guess- the color wheel or the dlp processor is dying.

i am looking for broken light engine with color wheel or just color wheel and broken dlp processor board with the dlp processor. i will pay for reasonable shipping.

i am also looking for disassembly instruction for this particular model.

thanks in advance for helping out.

Since we're up to a bazillion pages here, I see the request for the service manual a lot ... I've put up a copy of it here:

http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Can anyone confirm if the colorwheel stops spinning immediately after powerdown? My 56HM195 makes a loud noise while it is on and for about 5 minutes (guess) after I shut it off. I've remove the lower back panel and it does not appear to be the large visable fan aimed directly at the bulb. There also appears to be a fan aimed near the cablecard slot that runs longer than the 5 minutes which is also probably not the noise. How many fans/moving parts are in the TV?

Has anyone else had an issue where 1/2 the screen is lighter than the other? It's really noticable on dark scenes. It not a gradual lightening, it's exactly in the middle of the screen. The left side is nice and dark with good detail and the right side is kinda washed out a little. Could this be a problem with the light engine?

I have the 72hm195.

I used to have an intermittant problem where the picture on the right side wouldn't display, but haven't had that for over a year now. Wasn't just the signal, tv menus would also be affected. During warranty, the tech could never find the problem of course. :) Unplugging the tv to reset it would clear the problem, sometimes just turning it off and on would too.

Can anyone help with this issue? I have a 52HMX95 and have noticed recently that bright colors and peoples faces/skin look all funky on HD channels. Reds are really bad, I have to turn the contrast and color way down on the settings to make it look normal. The only noise I've heard once in awhile is a popping or clicking from the back of the t.v., but nothing too shocking. It's making me insane!!!

yep, it does sound like a bad ballast, just the bad part when my new lamp didn't work either. I advice anyone with these tvs to at least check the ballast when the lamp goes.

I think that when the lamp blows it takes the ballast with it, so a better advice would be to replace the lamp when symptons begin. You can see some change in intensity, up-downs, during viewings a few weeks before the lamp blowing; that's the time to replace it.

You should try the service manual in ebay, that's where my friend and i got it. My friend replaced the ballast himself, took him 2 hours but saved the money from the tech. I told him to explain here the steps, so this maybe the perfect opportunity, you should ask him too.

Look for hagerfoot, i'll ask him to check this thread also.

Good luck.


i had a problem where upon switching the tv on there was a loud bussing noise followed by on and off of the green light about 8-9 times, as before thought it was the lamp got new one the problem still persists after inputting good lamp.

Any answers as to how i can find out if its the ballast or the power supply, and how to rectify, i will be utterly greatful for anyones help.

Sunny

I have ordered a new ballast for 62HM94 will need help for installation if someone can help.

I just this week, replaced the ballast, it did the trick, and now I am up and running again. I am also on my 3rd bulb in as many years.
However, after this last fix, the pic is a little crooked. Its about a 1/4" off. You can notice it when you have your black bars at top and bottom, and when a DTV menu is up etc.
I replaced everything just the way it came out.
Is there a way to adjust this and picture quality under the service mode?
Or is it something i may have to take back apart to see if it tweaks it?

Thanks
Mike

I just this week, replaced the ballast, it did the trick, and now I am up and running again. I am also on my 3rd bulb in as many years.
However, after this last fix, the pic is a little crooked. Its about a 1/4" off. You can notice it when you have your black bars at top and bottom, and when a DTV menu is up etc.
I replaced everything just the way it came out.
Is there a way to adjust this and picture quality under the service mode?
Or is it something i may have to take back apart to see if it tweaks it?

Thanks
Mike

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10778308#post10778308

I just this week, replaced the ballast, it did the trick, and now I am up and running again. I am also on my 3rd bulb in as many years.
However, after this last fix, the pic is a little crooked. Its about a 1/4" off. You can notice it when you have your black bars at top and bottom, and when a DTV menu is up etc.
I replaced everything just the way it came out.
Is there a way to adjust this and picture quality under the service mode?
Or is it something i may have to take back apart to see if it tweaks it?

Thanks
Mike

Did you shift the light engine to remove the ballast? You might not have it installed squarely leading to the tilt. I'd take the back off and make sure everything is seated properly, and then if it doesn't look right open the front, and check to see that the lens looks like its aimed properly.

-TF

Today in the mail I received the class action lawsuit letter in regards to the lamps that failed early in the 2004 - 2005 Toshiba DLP sets. I own a 52HMX94, therefore I'm included be default.

I've had my set since November 2004 and have not had to replace the lamp. The TV gets plenty of use so I know the hours on the lamp are pretty high so my original bulb held up well.

As luck would have it though, I get this letter today and then just hours later my bulb blew out! LOL I couldn't believe it and my wife didn't believe me until I turned the set on for her to see no picture at all.

I do have an extended 5 year warranty that does cover the bulb so no worries there. I just still can't believe that I get this letter in the mail and then my bulb blows out. Good times! :p

Just hooked-up a Sony BDP-S350 to my Tosh 56MX195. Was looking forward to ture 1080p but could only get 1080i to work.

I've been looking forward to having a true 1080p set-up since I bought this TV back in December of 2005. I'm not sure I could tell the difference between 1080i and 1080p but I'd really like the opportunuty to try!

Is this TV just too old for a 1080p input? Is there a firmware update out there for it? IS the 1080p experience wotrh investing in a new TV?
:confused:

Has anyone ever seen this. in this photo you can see blue and green lines, they start to apear on the bottom and work there way up after a few minutes. It is also flickering or flashing very fast, 5 times a second, all inputs are the same and the picture and menus are there but degraded.

Just hooked-up a Sony BDP-S350 to my Tosh 56MX195. Was looking forward to ture 1080p but could only get 1080i to work.

I've been looking forward to having a true 1080p set-up since I bought this TV back in December of 2005. I'm not sure I could tell the difference between 1080i and 1080p but I'd really like the opportunuty to try!

Is this TV just too old for a 1080p input? Is there a firmware update out there for it? IS the 1080p experience wotrh investing in a new TV?
:confused:

These sets only allow 720p and 1080i input however they are 1080p native. I know it is strange. The best picture you will get will be by using a 1080i input via HDMI.

These sets only allow 720p and 1080i input however they are 1080p native. I know it is strange. The best picture you will get will be by using a 1080i input via HDMI.

First off what do you mean being 1080p native?
I have a 72mx196 Tohsiba so in a sinse Toshiba lied when they said it was 1080p. I bought it for that reason beacuse was 1080p. I have a Sony s300 blu-ray player. I didn't notces any diifferant whan I played regular dvd on. Friday night I was looking at the Sony remote and It had screen res button.[usally use a Harmony 880] when I got to the 1080p setting the screen went blank. I called sony and they said it was the tv. Called Toshiba and they said the tv was 1080/24p capatible and it was the player.
Yesterday went and bought a Maginavox blu-ray player and could not get the tv in1080p format.
looks like I paid $3200.00 for nothing.:(

What is the best place to get a ballast and Bulb ?

I have ordered a new ballast for 62HM94 will need help for installation if someone can help.

I posted some instructions here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14576821#post14576821

Also here is a copy of the service manual: http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Best place to get a ballast (I found is here): http://www.tritronicsinc.com/

Many places to find a lamp, I found these guys pretty good: http://lamps-dlp.com/

Hope this helps.

Who has gotten the most hours out of their original lamp?

I'm curious since I just had to replace mine, we bought the set in November of 2004.

My total hours were 9737, I checked after the new lamp was installed.

Who holds the record? :)

Id like to get a piece of that action!
I got my 52hm84 in 05 and I am on my 3rd lamp and like previously posted, 2nd ballast.
The lamp in there now has lasted the longest, been in 13 months.
Id love to see a lamp go 8-9 thousand hours.

Thanks
Mike

7947 hrs on a three year old 62hm195, but having problems as stated in an other post. this thing has been great until now. I wish it was only a bulb issue, the local service shop wants 65.00 to walk in the door then another 90.00 to reveal what the problem is. hows that for getting raked.

Thanks for sending me the links, I get my ballast today will inform everyone how it goes, since the bulb looks good and the replacement also still left the RED light on with a buzzing sound, I will change the ballast.

I also recieved the Class action suit letter about the life of the bulb as I have changed 3 times since 2004, I am also covered and will pass on my claim to Toshiba and keep you gys informed as to the outcome.

i had a problem where upon switching the tv on there was a loud bussing noise followed by on and off of the green light about 8-9 times, as before thought it was the lamp got new one the problem still persists after inputting good lamp.

Any answers as to how i can find out if its the ballast or the power supply, and how to rectify, i will be utterly greatful for anyones help.

Sunny

I have just gone through what appears to be the same thing. My third bulb just blew and when i installed the new one i could hear a buzzing and then the red and green lights would flash and then buzzing and so on.

Is changing the ballast the fix for this?

Thanks for all the help!!

Jason

Does $49.95 sound right for a ballast cost?



Thanks Jason

I posted some instructions here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14576821#post14576821

Also here is a copy of the service manual: http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Best place to get a ballast (I found is here): http://www.tritronicsinc.com/

Many places to find a lamp, I found these guys pretty good: http://lamps-dlp.com/

Hope this helps.
I am point number 4 on your instructions, have uncrewed the cover, taken the lamp out, have uncrewed the light engine with 2 screws from the frame, I cannot wriggle the light engine out, I cannot find the small screw as refered to below.

The tray with the light engine comes out, you need to unscrew it from the tv frame. Look out for the black plastic in front of the lens. There is one small screw.

Do I also need to unhook the RED, Yellow and Blue cables from their attachments?

please help, I have the back open and wnat to get it completed asap.

Sunny

I am point number 4 on your instructions, have uncrewed the cover, taken the lamp out, have uncrewed the light engine with 2 screws from the frame, I cannot wriggle the light engine out, I cannot find the small screw as refered to below.

The tray with the light engine comes out, you need to unscrew it from the tv frame. Look out for the black plastic in front of the lens. There is one small screw.

Do I also need to unhook the RED, Yellow and Blue cables from their attachments?

please help, I have the back open and wnat to get it completed asap.

Sunny
I managed to worl it out, replaced the ballast and the tv is working fine.

Hagerfoot thanks so much for the instructions, its not difficult to Follow at all, the black screen with the screw was on the top side of the removable light unit tray.

Thanks again, save dme buying a new TV.

Sunny

I have just gone through what appears to be the same thing. My third bulb just blew and when i installed the new one i could hear a buzzing and then the red and green lights would flash and then buzzing and so on.

Is changing the ballast the fix for this?

Thanks for all the help!!

Jason
Yes its the answer, follow the instructions below from Harerfoot..Originally Posted by hagerfoot
I posted some instructions here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post14576821

Also here is a copy of the service manual: http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Best place to get a ballast (I found is here): http://www.tritronicsinc.com/

Many places to find a lamp, I found these guys pretty good: http://lamps-dlp.com/

Hope this helps.

I posted some instructions here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14576821#post14576821

Also here is a copy of the service manual: http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Best place to get a ballast (I found is here): http://www.tritronicsinc.com/

Many places to find a lamp, I found these guys pretty good: http://lamps-dlp.com/

Hope this helps.
Thanks Thanks, changed the ballst successfully and tv screen is now on.

Bless You Hagerfoot.

Sunny1960

Well can't wait any longer and have ordered the ballast. I hope this fixes my problem. And i hope this is a easy install following the instructions above. Any feedback from people that have changed there ballast themselves?

Thanks Jason

Ok, looks like I need to replace the ballast in my 52HM84. Anyone know the part number that I need? Looking at the service manual, I don't see anything about a ballast. Is it the same thing as the light engine?

Hi guys, kind of new to the forum, Im trying to get into the service menu of my 62hm195 to see how many hours i have on my current blub. Im pretty sure my year is up on the bulb, and ill be buying a new one soon (Thank god for the class action suit). When i do all the steps i get "no display" Any help would be appreciated

Try here

http://www.partstore.com/

I bought a Toshiba 62HM116 (rebadged HM196) from Costco back in Aug 2006.

Just checked the bulb life on it and it is at 1143 hours. However, the picture is noticably darker. I have changed the lamp setting from low to high because of this. Is this normal for the bulb? Do I need to get a new bulb to get my brightness back even though I only have 1143 hours on it??

we recently got a sony 46" V2500 LCD for the bedroom and we are amazed at the picture on that thing (especially when watching blu ray or HD DVD movies on it) and looking at dimmed picture on the Toshiba is depressing at times...

I hate to ignore this thread! Hey did you know that Costco offer a FREE 4 years replacement warranty on the lamp! Call this number 1866-861-0450.

It/s all FREE ! YOU're Welcome

Ok just finished my ballast install:D:D

Everything works and the install was a piece of cake.

A magnetized phillips screw driver comes in handy!!

Even had a chance to clean the lenses and the color looks great.

Just wanted to thank everyone for the help.

Total out of pocket for the bulb and ballast $200.00 plus shipping.

Can't imagine how much it would have been if i dropped it off somewhere.


Jason

Long time HMX TV owner. Recently, I upgraded my MX-700 universal remote with an MX-850 mainly for the RF capability. To be able to use RF for my components, I need to attach an RF emitter to each component I want to control using RF.

I have since learned that the IR sensor of the HMX TV is INSIDE the TV. Being the adventurous type, I tried to open the TV but couldn't get the front completely off for some reason.

Here are my questions I'm hoping someone could help me with:
- have you tried controlling the HMX using RF with success? If you have, how did you do it?
- does anyone know where I can get directions on how to completely remove the front of the TV so that I can access the IR sensor inside?

Thanks!

I have the same issue. Did you since find a way to resolve it? Thanks

Anybody know of a parts store in or near Los Angeles to pick up a bulb for my 46HM95?

I was just about to get some Gears of War 2 on when BLAMMO, my bulb blew....

It's Friday night, I have no backup bulb (dummy on my part) and nobody will ship until Monday.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Got message that cooling fan for cable card is not working. Is this easy to replace and which on eis it? Can anyone help please?

Ok just finished my ballast install:D:D

Everything works and the install was a piece of cake.

A magnetized phillips screw driver comes in handy!!

Even had a chance to clean the lenses and the color looks great.

Just wanted to thank everyone for the help.

Total out of pocket for the bulb and ballast $200.00 plus shipping.

Can't imagine how much it would have been if i dropped it off somewhere.


Jason

Great to hear your repair came out ok.

Whats the part # of the ballast?

Yes its the answer, follow the instructions below from Harerfoot..Originally Posted by hagerfoot
I posted some instructions here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post14576821

Also here is a copy of the service manual: http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

Best place to get a ballast (I found is here): http://www.tritronicsinc.com/

Many places to find a lamp, I found these guys pretty good: http://lamps-dlp.com/

Hope this helps.

Anyone have the part# for the 62HM195 ballast?

I'm having problems with the contrast on my Toshiba 62HM95. Its the one with the bulb problems and I figured I had a good bulb this time since it hasn't gone out like the last 2.

Anyways the colors are really not well defined like they used to be and I have to turn the contrast way down in order for it to not wash out colors real bad. I cannot run it in any of the factory preset settings and now have to have the picture turned way down in order to watch.

Do you think this is bulb issues, a color wheel issue, etc.?

Or should I just finally give up on this TV that is now part of a class action lawsuit over the bulbs.:confused:

Anybody know of a parts store in or near Los Angeles to pick up a bulb for my 46HM95?

I was just about to get some Gears of War 2 on when BLAMMO, my bulb blew....

It's Friday night, I have no backup bulb (dummy on my part) and nobody will ship until Monday.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

DeeLux, Hopefully you've already resolved your problem. If not, I've bought a couple of bulbs from these guys. They've always had them in stock and had a competitive price. They're right next to Van Nuys Airport. Good Luck!

Hi Tech Electronics Svc
7049 Valjean Ave
Van Nuys, CA, 91406
(818) 785-8085

Thanks dtomlinson!

I did get it taken care of, I ended up ordering through DLPlamps.com since the one repair place I found didn't have my bulb in stock.

But I'll keep the company you provided as a reference since they are very close to where I live (Granada Hills)

Thanks again!

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I would just like to ask if anybody knows where I could get the DMD board for my father's 62hm64? Does anyone know the part number for this? I have been looking for part number "PD 1870" to no avail. Am I looking for the right part number? TIA

Hi Guys,

OK, I am brand new to the forum and trying to find out if it is worth my while to fix my father in law's Toshiba 62HM85 or have it outsourced.

Here is what happened, my 2 1/2 year old son sprayed Pledge Orange Oil onto the outer screen , it seeped into the bezel housing, has wicked up between the screens and now is creating a nice arc between the cover and screen.

I have priced the screens being replaced at around $550 for parts and labor, I have the service manual and it does not look too hard to remove the bezel and touchpad assembly. Is it possible to clean these screens and have it look good? Is it advisable to try it or just outsource it for the best price to replace it?

Any input is appreciated, I have to get it all resolved before the Superbowl party in a few months.

Thanks,
Jim W.

Hi Guys,

OK, I am brand new to the forum and trying to find out if it is worth my while to fix my father in law's Toshiba 62HM85 or have it outsourced.

Here is what happened, my 2 1/2 year old son sprayed Pledge Orange Oil onto the outer screen , it seeped into the bezel housing, has wicked up between the screens and now is creating a nice arc between the cover and screen.

I have priced the screens being replaced at around $550 for parts and labor, I have the service manual and it does not look too hard to remove the bezel and touchpad assembly. Is it possible to clean these screens and have it look good? Is it advisable to try it or just outsource it for the best price to replace it?

Any input is appreciated, I have to get it all resolved before the Superbowl party in a few months.

Thanks,
Jim W.

IMO...I have never removed a screen but to me you have nothing to lose if you try to do it yourself...if you cant get it fixed you can always pay someone to do it....

Good Luck and let us know how things turn out...:)

the front screen are just mirrors and reflectors. take it apart. clean out any residue and put it back together.
good weekend project.

I have a 52HM84 DLP telivsion and the picture has gone black. The bulb is absolutely fine. The diagnostic flashes indicate that the "BUS line is damaged" and/or the SCL, SDA is working improperly. What is the SCL or SDA?

I'm an electrical engineer so i am really frustrated that i have to wait for a service agreement repair person to fix my telivision, but honestly i am at a lost at figuring out what SCL/SDA stand for? What BUS line are they talking about... it could be any BUS line in the set? I can't find in the service manual where they reference SCL/SDA.

really appreciate these forums, i've visited many times over the past years, this is just my first time posting. please help a little.

I have a 52HM84 DLP telivsion and the picture has gone black. The bulb is absolutely fine. The diagnostic flashes indicate that the "BUS line is damaged" and/or the SCL, SDA is working improperly. What is the SCL or SDA?

My guess would be "Serial Clock" and "Serial Data". There are a lot of different sorts of memory devices and switches that use this nomenclature. The problem will be identifying which one...

Hi all.
I've had this TV since 09/2006. I haven't replaced the bulb.

For about a month and a half, the fan has been louder than normal.

Now, today in the morning, I turn on the TV and the right half of the screen (as you're looking directly at it) appears a bit dim. I shut it off and come back 5 hrs later, turn it on and the image is green, blurry and off-center to the left by about an inch.

I called Toshiba (TACP) and he mentioned that the symptom sounds like a light engine. It's out of warranty.

I figured something was wrong when the fan started to be louder than normal. So, I tried to use the Mack Warranty, but I didn't have my Warranty Card handy (I don't think BuyDig packed it. I thought that since it was on the receipt that that would suffice. Little did I know...)

So, I've been trying to get warranty service, but, man, the hoops I have to go through to get service...:mad:

I've been trying to track down my Mack Warranty Card for the 3-Year Extended In-Home TV Warranty + 3-Year Bulb Replacement Warranty.
That wasn't packed with the TV.

Mack needed it to be registered online once I got the TV. Well, would've been nice to know that bit of info as well as the warranty card. So, I had to call BuyDig to get me a Warranty Number that Mack issued, just so I could finally register the warranty TODAY.

Now, does anyone have this warranty card? I need a scanned copy, can someone PM me? Thanks...

Hopefully, the info I got from BuyDig would be enough to get in-home service.

Any ideas?

A couple of hours later, I turned on the TV and now it's back to normal? What just happened? Is something damaged or not?

I have a Toshiba 52HM84.
The issue started around a month ago. When turning the TV on the red light would stay solid and the green light would blink 9 times. I would hear the audio but no video. The TV would then attempt to restart and would usually come on the second time. Recently it just started working again almost every time that I started it up. However, yesterday it started the symptoms again and I am lucky if I am able to get it to actually come on. Same thing was happening this morning as I as getting ready to leave for work. I have since talked to my wife and she was able to get the tv to come on after I left. I'm just trying to verify if this is indeed a Ballast issue and if that is what I need to replace.

Second question is what is the difference between part #'s 23122468 and 23122468P. They sound like they are the same thing, but the part that ends in P seems to be about half the price of the other. Is there any difference?

Thanks for your help in advance!!!

I have a Toshiba 52HM84.
The issue started around a month ago. When turning the TV on the red light would stay solid and the green light would blink 9 times. I would hear the audio but no video. The TV would then attempt to restart and would usually come on the second time. Recently it just started working again almost every time that I started it up. However, yesterday it started the symptoms again and I am lucky if I am able to get it to actually come on. Same thing was happening this morning as I as getting ready to leave for work. I have since talked to my wife and she was able to get the tv to come on after I left. I'm just trying to verify if this is indeed a Ballast issue and if that is what I need to replace.

Second question is what is the difference between part #'s 23122468 and 23122468P. They sound like they are the same thing, but the part that ends in P seems to be about half the price of the other. Is there any difference?

Thanks for your help in advance!!!


I am interested to know the answer here too as it seems this is my exact symptoms (even identical with the wife being able to turn it on after i left). I have service repair guy comming the 4th of December and i am trying to figure out how to convince him to replace the right part (my warranty runs out in April).

As far as my second question above, I called partstore.com and they had no clue what the difference was. Of course they thought that I needed to purchase the more expensive part. Still waiting for someone here to give an official answer on this. I really would hate to order the more expensive part only to find that I could have paid half price.

I have the 62HM84 with the original bulb. It's about 4 yrs old now which will make it old technology. The funny thing is I still think the picture on this TV which as you know is 1080I at best still looks more lifelike and better overall than the newer technologies.
Everytime I think of replacing it with a plasma for example I'm reminded how great it looks with HD and forget about it.:)
Does anyone else feel the same way??? and if so why the hell did they stop making these tv's???
What's wrong with this technology???:confused:

Has any one had their tv's professionally calibrated?? Can you calibrate this tv?
I tried doing it myself with a Star Wars dvd. Does anyone have any calibrated settings to share so we can compare?
I apologize if this has been discussed already.
Thanks

I have the 62HM84 with the original bulb. It's about 4 yrs old now which will make it old technology. The funny thing is I still think the picture on this TV which as you know is 1080I at best still looks more lifelike and better overall than the newer technologies.
Everytime I think of replacing it with a plasma for example I'm reminded how great it looks with HD and forget about it.:)
Does anyone else feel the same way??? and if so why the hell did they stop making these tv's???
What's wrong with this technology???:confused:

720p not 1080i. And yes they can be calibrated, I had mine done. The failing of these TV's has less to do with PQ and more to do with bulky (relatively) cabinets.

Hey, I am new to the board. Trying to solve a problem with my 62HM84. The TV has no picture and no sound and gives the code that the lamp is bad.
So, long story short...the lamp is not bad have replaced it with 2 new lamps. Repair people replaced (just 2 days before one year warranty expired) a power board. One year later...same code...bulb not bad...paid over $500 to replace the power board again! Now just over 3 months later (part nor labor under warranty at this point)...same issue. I am assuming that it is the same thing...power board....because a new bulb did not fix it. Not sure I want to invest another $500 in this TV. I am thinking that there has got to be a part that is bad that may be making the power board bad??? I am definately not good at diagnosing electronics...can anyone give me any ideas?
I appreciate any help/advice. I am willing to order a part and replace it myself...I just don't know what I am getting into.
Thanks! :)

Does anyone have an answer to my questions above? Thanks.

I'm currently in the market for a ST6285 Tv stand for a Toshiba 62HM195. I've been looking online for a couple weeks, no luck.

If any of you have one for sale, or know where I could purchase one, please let me know.

Thanks!

zackdadams@gmail.com

check you email, I have a stand

Cars are using high intensity discharge units which use other gasses, besides halogen, to work. Lamp posts are another example, they use sodium and mercury (like ours), to obtain more light intensity at the same power rate. Lamp posts endure most things a car endures, and I've seen them work during hurricanes until power goes out...then they turn back on...safe.

Well, anyone has a contact with Sylvania or Phillips automotive so they can save us?


Car lamps are sealed and designed to withstand intense changes in pressure and temperature. I am sure that the Automotive grade of these bulbs would be more expensive but more sustainable to heat/temperature and wear.

Its been a while since I posted here but I am having the following issue.

The component ports on my 62hmx94 does not appear to be showing red. I tried Dish 622, Toshiba a3 HDDVD player and Playstation 3. I tried different cables as well. Has anyone else had this issue. HDMI seems to be fine. I can have the same box hooked up with component and hdmi and the hdmi is fine. My extended warranty runs out in February.

I have read through the thread discussing the issue of the tv's not turning on, but I didn't come across a definite solution. Here is what is happening with my 62HM14: Go to turn on the unit and the red light comes on, you can hear the fans coming on and after a fews seconds the screen stays dark but you can hear sound and the green light blinks 8 times before the unit shuts off and starts again. I read where unplugging it for a few minutes remedies this issue. So after unplugging and re-plugging the unit will do the red+flashing green for 3 to 5 cycles and then the screen finally comes on. The problem is we have to do this EVERY time we turn the tv on, whereas a few posts were stating they only had to do it every other month or so. Im hesitant to blame the bulb because once the unit is on it works perfectly and the screen looks fine with regards to color, brightness and the like. Some say the balast could be to blame, but those same threads were relating to changing the bulb. So if anyone can tell me what the problem may be and how I can fix it I would greatly appreciate it (the wife and daughter would be grateful too). Happy Holidays

Hi, i have the same DLP and pretty sure I have the same problem as yours but only it happens on all channels,not just HD. Actually it is also on any input ir DVD, Blue Ray etc. The Red and Yellows, Skin Tones etc. all hav a jagged edge and look almost cartoon like. I also get some exagerated suqare pixellation (if that is a word) at times but the main problem is the bright colours not belending and off colour etc.

I had a tech come and look at it and hes had ordered a colour whell under warranty but it had been over 6 weeks and he has notr got back t me. I am hoping he does not get back to me or fix it within the 60 days my extended warranty specifies. If they do not fix it within the 60 days they have to give me a new T.V. so i gues a 52" LCD will be the replacement.

If you have had this problem fixe, please let me know what it was.

Thanks, and god luck if you haven't found out how to fix it yet.

Mike





Can anyone help with this issue? I have a 52HMX95 and have noticed recently that bright colors and peoples faces/skin look all funky on HD channels. Reds are really bad, I have to turn the contrast and color way down on the settings to make it look normal. The only noise I've heard once in awhile is a popping or clicking from the back of the t.v., but nothing too shocking. It's making me insane!!!

mlamanne
may i have the used color wheel if the tech leaves it behind. mine is failing and it is very expensive to replace it out of warrenty. i will cover the shipping/ handling for you. anoj

It's been quite a while since I've visited here and I want to share some knowledge with you guys. Sorry if this has been stated before but I don't have time to check all the old posts.

Location/Cable Co:
Birmingham, AL - Bright House Cable
I live 20 miles outside of B'ham

Problem: TVGOS - NO LISTINGS
For 6 months or better my TVGOS system has not worked on my Toshiba 52HMX95. It first started after having to change my lamp. The first time I got it working again after days of tech support with Toshiba. The next time my guide info dropped out after my light engine had to be replaced. Both times the guide info dropped out due to the TV being unplugged for a length of time. However, after the 2nd time around my guide info loss appeared to be a problem unrelated to Toshiba or TV Guide. I'm pretty certain this time my local cable company is at fault as they're not allowing the VBI guide data to be transmitted through their system. Whether they are stripping the data, knowingly, or unknowingly, I'll probably never know. But I have forwarded my concerns to the TV Guide tech folks. They have been wonderful in attempting to fix my issue. But as I mentioned, I'm pretty sure it's not their software or Toshiba's implementation of that software that's the problem.

Fix: OTA Antenna
During my 2 months of tech support with the TV Guide guys there were times when I'd have guide info for a few days before it all disappeared again. Each time I had guide info, my TV Guide host channel would be listed as 2:0-10. This would represent 2:0(antenna 2) - 10(local broadcast station channel 10). Channel 10 is my over the air broadcast of PBS. I eventually found that my cheap indoor antenna was not receiving the signal well enough, all the time, resulting in interrupted guide downloads . When atmospheric conditions were just right, I'd have TV Guide data. Two days later I'd have no data at all.

Troubleshooting Steps:
It seems that my guide data may have dropped out after my cable company went all digital. We changed out my cable card to a new two-way card hoping that would fix things. That did not help.
With the assistance of TV Guide tech folks, we tried every possible combo of cable setups and guide initialization, including removal of my indoor antenna. All failed. I found a TVGOS tutorial manual online that gave a lot of info on how the guide programming works. Armed with it I was able to come to the conclusion that my TV was unable to download the VBI data through Bright House Cable. The TV Guide folks agreed and said they would forward my issue to Bright House. I decided to try the external indoor antenna again while I awaited the arrival of my new outdoor antenna I ordered. I found my local PBS coordinates through an FCC website. I had Google give me driving directions from my house to the broadcast antenna. I then took the 20 mile aerial map and put it into a graphics program. I then drew a straight line from point A to point B in the a graphics program. I was able to overlay this arrow onto a zoomed in aerial bird's eye view of my house. Of course I made sure I kept both aerial overviews alligned to the North, a task easily done if using Maps Live. Now I had a view of my house and the neighborhood with an arrow point directly to the PBS antenna 20+ miles away. It was very easy to see I needed to aim my antenna directly over the apex of the neighbors' house. I then reconnected my cheap indoor rabbit ears, lined the antenna up in that general direction, raised the antenna up as high as permissable and reset my TV Guide to default. After reprogramming the TV Guide I found myself to have Guide info again the next morning. I expect after my DB4 OTA antenna arrives and is installed, I'll continue to receive the guide downloads. I can only hope that after the digital transition, PBS continues to broadcast the data. Of course I did write them to ask, but I have yet to hear back from them.

I hope this info is helpful to somebody here.

I came home this evening to find my TV Guide almost completely populated. It is only missing 2 days worth of data now. I feel good knowing the data is capable of coming through my rabbit ear antenna right now, because it reassures me an external OTA antenna rated for 55 miles is sure to pick up the signal better than the rabbit ears. It can only get better from here. :)

See the pic of my antenna aiming technique. I had to resort to common sense aiming since I did not own a compass. The heading I was shooting for was around 85 to 87 degrees, nearly due East, per antennaweb.org. But my common sense version didn't come out exactly as antennaweb had me listed. But too their website shows my location to be down the road 1/4 mile from where it really is.

I have searched the net and here and it looks like the PS3 has some issues with HDMI connections.

I notice here that some of you have gotten the PS3 to work via HDMI on a M85 series DLPs but mine just won't go. Took it to the neighbors house and it worked with his Sharp Aquos (same cables).

I have tried all the PS3 troubleshooting steps and just cannot get it to go on the HDMI port. Is there some setting in service menu I need to change? What could be the problem? Games suck at 480i and my other white console is out for the usual replacement (the second one, going on to my third).


Funny (or sad I guess) part is my sat works on the HDMI port so I know the port works.

I have the 62HM84 set and ps3 on hdmi works fine. The only things I could suggest would be:
a) make sure ps3 output is set to hdmi
b) make sure ps3 output resolution is set to the resolutions your tv can handle (mine can only do 720p/1080i)

If you've already done this then I don't know.
Sorry

I have the 62HM84 set and ps3 on hdmi works fine. The only things I could suggest would be:
a) make sure ps3 output is set to hdmi
b) make sure ps3 output resolution is set to the resolutions your tv can handle (mine can only do 720p/1080i)

If you've already done this then I don't know.
Sorry

Thanks, did all that. Problem is I don't even get to the resolution selection part of the HDMI setup. Nothing but black. It does appear to flicker a bit and seems to flash lines but I can't be 100% positive that it is actually doing that or if it is just me.

For kicks and giggles I grabbed the following info off the TV. Wonder if some of you with working M85s, HDMIs and PS3s could confirm if your software versions are same/different and/or newer/older. This is the only thing I can think of that would be preventing it from working, and I could be dead wrong as well.

Off to get a component cable for now. Unlike my 12-year old son I can't see stuff at 480i and am tired of him kicking my butt. lol

E2P Ver: 18
SW Ver: DLE Nov 17 2004

HDMI
No: 40705122
Err Code: 00

BEP (not sure if this is even related)
SW Ver: 53
E2P Ver: 18