The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread [Text View] - Page 32

whjeffs

01-25-09, 09:50 PM

It's been a long time since I have visited this thread. Since giving up on CableCard, TV Guide On-Screen, and Symbio usage with my 52HMX94 I have not had much need to come on here and post. In June 2007 I began having problems with the HDMI inputs not working. This required a service call under the Repairmaster extended warranty I purchased. The tech from Video Tech Center in Baltimore replaced the digital board (part# 23148142) in July 2007. Soon after that repair, the TV began displaying a distorted picture (bottom half of screen solid green, top half distorted) and shutting itself off. In August they replaced the optical block assembly (23405372), LVDS cable (23368868) and digital board (23148142). Then about a month after that I started getting a buzzing sound when turning on the TV and most of the time the lamp would not light. I replaced the lamp, which ended up not being the problem. The service company came out again and replaced the ballast (23122468). That was in October 2007 and the TV has been trouble free since then until yesterday. I have started having the same problem again with the HDMI inputs not working. I had been running the "test" firmware (version 255.6.1) that Toshiba had sent me a long time ago when I was still dealing with the cablecard/tvgos issues. So this morning I updated to the latest public firmware for the tv, version 1.6.5. The rest of the day the TV worked fine on HDMI inputs. Now tonight it's out again and I've had to temporarily switch back to component inputs.
The 2 sources I am running on HDMI are a Motorola dual tuner HD-DVR from Verizon Fios and a Samsung BD-P2550 Blu Ray player which I just recently purchased. The last time I had these HDMI problems was soon after I had purchased a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player. Now I don't have the HD-DVD player any more so I just have the Blu Ray and the cable box connected. I've tried swapping HDMI cables around and putting the BluRay and cablebox on different inputs either one at a time or together and nothing corrects it so I'm sure the problem is in the TV again.
I guess I'll be calling Repairmaster tomorrow to get it serviced. My warranty with them runs out in November 2009. During the last run of repairs they were very close to replacing the TV due to the amount of money that was being put into repairs. I'm not sure if they keep a running tab on that during the entire warranty period or if it seperate for each occurrence. Maybe I'll get lucky this time and get it replaced.

I'm wondering has anyone else had problems like this with the HDMI ports going bad? Sorry for the long post. Like I said, it's been a long time since I've visited this thread!

Jeff

SouthernJet

01-26-09, 01:54 PM

I think I want to clean my 52HM95 lens to get it crisper..
new lamp just put in and its looking great , but can tell its lost a bit of sharpness,,

BUT, I dont want to do this myself..Anyone know who in Raleigh NC area is qualified to do this?? Suggestions of a tech or repair shop that you know can do this, has done this, and not mess up the TV??

Thanks..

bump

SouthernJet

01-26-09, 01:55 PM

So I own a 50HM67 that I got a little more than a year ago used from best buy. A week ago the lamp blew. I just ordered another one online for about $130, thinking that was the problem. When I got the new lamp, I installed it and had it working for about half an hour when it blew. I went back to look at it and the lamp smelled like burnt plastic and was very hot.

I think there might be something wrong with the cooling/fan. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas?

did you turn off tv and unplug for at least an hour?
If not, you might have put a cold lamp into a hot socket..

djustl

01-26-09, 03:17 PM

I'm wondering has anyone else had problems like this with the HDMI ports going bad? Sorry for the long post. Like I said, it's been a long time since I've visited this thread!

Did you try a full TV reset?

I had an HDMI problem last year when I tried to hook a TivoHD up to my 52HM94. I had an upconverting DVD player that worked fine using the HDMI port, but I attempted to add an HDMI switch into the mix so I could use by the DVD player and the Tivo. Once I started switching cables around, I wasn't able to get any of my devices to work, including my DVD player.

I was able to fix things by doing a reset in the Setup menu. It seems like my TV's HDMI port got into some sort of state where no devices would work anymore, but the TV reset cleared it all up. I'd say try that if you haven't already.

ajm52292

01-26-09, 10:58 PM

did you turn off tv and unplug for at least an hour?
If not, you might have put a cold lamp into a hot socket..

Yeah it was about a week until i installed the new lamp...i had to order it from advanced lamps.

I called toshiba, they told me to return the lamp that just broke because it may have just been a faulty lamp, not the fan or cooling system. so that's what i'm doing, not sure if it will work.

whjeffs

01-27-09, 06:07 AM

Did you try a full TV reset?

I had an HDMI problem last year when I tried to hook a TivoHD up to my 52HM94. I had an upconverting DVD player that worked fine using the HDMI port, but I attempted to add an HDMI switch into the mix so I could use by the DVD player and the Tivo. Once I started switching cables around, I wasn't able to get any of my devices to work, including my DVD player.

I was able to fix things by doing a reset in the Setup menu. It seems like my TV's HDMI port got into some sort of state where no devices would work anymore, but the TV reset cleared it all up. I'd say try that if you haven't already.

I just did the full reset to factory defaults from the menu then unplugged the TV for about 30 seconds. So far it's working now but it also worked for awhile after I did the firmware upgrade which also required the TV to be unplugged at the end of the process. I'll report back here if it keeps working or not.

Jeff

aphex

01-29-09, 12:19 PM

dtomlinson

01-29-09, 05:00 PM

"When mine works, it looks great, its just keeping it from blowing bulbs is always an issue, and frankly I'm done spending $150+ on bulbs."

Have you investigated the ballast on the set that keeps blowing bulbs. A bad ballast can intermittently light the bulb, making it seem that the bulb is bad. I replaced one good bulb before I realized the ballast was bad. The ballast is about a $60.00 part and pretty basic to swap out.

Straffer44

02-01-09, 06:17 PM

I just replaced the lamp on my 56hxm96 tv. I had about 4500hrs in low lamp mode. The service center suggested that I leave the lamp on high bright mode to get maximum life from the lamp. I thought this was for the 2005 dlp sets. Has this issue been settled? He also said to leave quick start set to on.
Thanks
stephen

I found the following in an old thread, many thanks to the original poster:)
My new lamp is now on high bright and i will keep my fingers crossed.

dominica (original poster)

02-09-07, 03:31 PM
Article from: HDTV MAGAZINE

http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/articles/2007/02/making_your_hdt.php

" You have one of the new lamp-based microdisplays such as DLP, LCoS, SXRD, D-ILA or LCD it will definitely pay off to learn how to extend your lamp life. Lamp life varies by manufacturer design based on the application of the product and varies anywhere from 2000 to 8000 hours. Lamp replacements run from $200-$500 but most consumer rear projection displays are in the $200-$300 range and also lean more towards longer rather than shorter life design. The good news here is unlike any other display you have owned you can bring these back to brand new performance by simply replacing the lamp.

Lamp replacement is generally easy and comes in the form of a cartridge. It is considered a consumer replaceable device and does not require a technician to perform. Most manufacturers will provide a direct replacement when under warranty. Should you decide to replace the lamp yourself, do not touch the face or glass of the lamp in the cartridge. Like a halogen lamp, body oils on these surfaces will cause hot spots on the lamp surface and cause the lamp to explode or crack. Please check your owner's manual for further replacement details for your product.

While I prefer writing definitive articles, this will not be one of them. The following information represents what the industry has experienced and represented over the last decade. In two aspects that have been considered critical for lamp life, Toshiba has taken the opposite stance and I am unable to confirm if they are right. Nevertheless, that is how their products operate and also what they officially recommend so it has been included since not following their policy would also prevent you from having any legitimate claim on premature Toshiba lamp failure.

Heavy Vibration: Kids jumping up and down on your floor, heavy footsteps and excessive volume from home theater system subwoofers can cause the display, and ultimately the lamp, to vibrate, inducing an instant failure.

Keep Power Cycles to a Minimum: Lamps are arc based and turning them on, called striking the lamp, is the most destructive process and plays one of the biggest roles in lamp life deterioration. Try to keep this at 2-3 times per day at the most. Rather than turn it off for only a few hours, it is best to leave it on. This is the same recommendation given for our old CRT technology.

Proper Ventilation: Be careful of applications where the product is buried in an enclosed environment without good ventilation. Air movement is essential for the exchange of outgoing warm air with incoming cool air.

Keep Filters Clean: Not all products have filters. If they do, replacing them should be covered in the owner's manual and you must maintain them to prolong lamp life, keep light path cooling at peak efficiency and, with LCD projection, prevent debris from entering the light path degrading image performance.

Power Down Cycles: Most displays feature a 10-60 second grace period or delay when initiating a power down sequence. This prevents unnecessary striking of the lamp to safeguard against unintentional power down commands. Some manufacturers, like Toshiba, have this as a menu item called "Instant Startup". Testing such a feature is easy: With the display on, press the power button. Within 10 seconds press power again and within a few moments the picture should return. If you find yourself waiting a minute or longer, or the power on command is being ignored, then the lamp was turned off and will not be turned on again until the sequence has completed. This could be due to an older display, in which case there is no solution, or like the Toshiba you may have a menu item that addresses this.

AC Surge Suppressor: If there is anything with a motor that is plugged into the same AC outlet, or on an outlet on the same circuit, it will generate spikes which can upset the ballast in the TV, causing a burst of additional current to the lamp. Some people have reported lamps failing as window AC units or vacuum cleaners are turned on! The solution is to install a surge suppressor. If you also want to protect against lightning, you should read AC Surge/Lightning Suppressors.

Loss of AC power: You should not unplug or remove AC power from the unit to turn it off. Turning off requires a typical 2 minute process to cool the lamp. Many auxiliary products, such as a cable box or satellite receiver, offer a switched AC outlet to "conveniently" turn your TV on and off - don't use it! If your electric company has problems maintaining the power while you are watching TV, then you need an uninterrupted power supply (UPS), like you would use for a computer.

Toshiba engineering, on the other hand, claims this process is not necessary and that their products do not provide a cool down process; when the lamp turns off so does the fan.

Power Settings: Many displays offer two power levels for the lamp. If you want to increase lamp life, set it for low power at the expense of light output and remember: Lamp based rear projection displays are brighter than necessary in nearly all cases, so this is not much of a penalty and slightly improves black levels. As the lamp ages, light output will drop and you will notice it does not seem to be as bright as it once was. When this happens, go back in the menu and switch it to high power. Ordering a replacement lamp at this time is not a bad idea. Light output will continue to drop, and at this point in the life cycle it will also start to change color, creating a yellowish overcast most evident in the whites. Once you notice that, replace it. As a videophile, be aware that you will lose 25% of your light output within the first 500 hours and by the time the lamp turns yellow, you are well past a loss of 75%. Replacing the lamp well before it has reached that point is in your performance imaging interest.

Again, Toshiba engineering has a differing view: They recommend you disregard the above and set the display for the high power setting because the lamp was designed and life span maximized for the higher power setting. While counterintuitive to what one would expect, that is exactly what Toshiba engineering claims based on comparisons of televisions owned by consumers and the televisions on display at the store, which run all day long in high power mode, receive one power cycle per day, and in some cases none. Toshiba found that dealer demo displays could get up to 7000-8000 hours out of a lamp. It is noteworthy that the same claim has been made for years with ordinary incandescent light bulbs used with a dimmer. "

bkazepis

02-01-09, 10:26 PM

So both mine, and a friends 46HM95 have been sitting dead in our respective kitchens for months now.

Mine blows bulbs like its going out of style, and his has a weird video board issue and a dead bulb.

I've tried to sell them cheap locally to someone who wants to try to fix them, but no bites. Think at this point it would be worth ripping out the internals and trying to part them out to people who need parts?

The problem is, I don't know exactly whats wrong with either of them. When mine works, it looks great, its just keeping it from blowing bulbs is always an issue, and frankly I'm done spending $150+ on bulbs. My friends on the other hand has no issue blowing bulbs, his just looks messed up when its on (greenish/rolling screen).

My 62HM195 has gone through many bulbs...recently replaced yet another one....have two extras in the closet...got fed up with the expense, the call from the wife when Im not home that yet another bulb has blown while Im not home.....sad because I really really love this set..

So, the Tosh is now in the basement (where it will get very little use) and has been replaced by the Sammy 67 inch LED model....no noisy color wheel, no bulbs to blow and WOW what a picture...the Sammys have their own issues but I gotta tell you...the picture is even better than the Tosh which I never thought was possible..:D

WIll I ever buy another Toshiba TV? Probably not...:(too many issues and not the proper level of support for what can be deemed a defective product due to the % of failures....

whjeffs

02-02-09, 08:18 PM

52HMX94 HDMI inputs not working - 2nd time

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's been a long time since I have visited this thread. Since giving up on CableCard, TV Guide On-Screen, and Symbio usage with my 52HMX94 I have not had much need to come on here and post. In June 2007 I began having problems with the HDMI inputs not working. This required a service call under the Repairmaster extended warranty I purchased. The tech from Video Tech Center in Baltimore replaced the digital board (part# 23148142) in July 2007. Soon after that repair, the TV began displaying a distorted picture (bottom half of screen solid green, top half distorted) and shutting itself off. In August they replaced the optical block assembly (23405372), LVDS cable (23368868) and digital board (23148142). Then about a month after that I started getting a buzzing sound when turning on the TV and most of the time the lamp would not light. I replaced the lamp, which ended up not being the problem. The service company came out again and replaced the ballast (23122468). That was in October 2007 and the TV has been trouble free since then until yesterday. I have started having the same problem again with the HDMI inputs not working. I had been running the "test" firmware (version 255.6.1) that Toshiba had sent me a long time ago when I was still dealing with the cablecard/tvgos issues. So this morning I updated to the latest public firmware for the tv, version 1.6.5. The rest of the day the TV worked fine on HDMI inputs. Now tonight it's out again and I've had to temporarily switch back to component inputs.
The 2 sources I am running on HDMI are a Motorola dual tuner HD-DVR from Verizon Fios and a Samsung BD-P2550 Blu Ray player which I just recently purchased. The last time I had these HDMI problems was soon after I had purchased a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player. Now I don't have the HD-DVD player any more so I just have the Blu Ray and the cable box connected. I've tried swapping HDMI cables around and putting the BluRay and cablebox on different inputs either one at a time or together and nothing corrects it so I'm sure the problem is in the TV again.
I guess I'll be calling Repairmaster tomorrow to get it serviced. My warranty with them runs out in November 2009. During the last run of repairs they were very close to replacing the TV due to the amount of money that was being put into repairs. I'm not sure if they keep a running tab on that during the entire warranty period or if it seperate for each occurrence. Maybe I'll get lucky this time and get it replaced.

I'm wondering has anyone else had problems like this with the HDMI ports going bad? Sorry for the long post. Like I said, it's been a long time since I've visited this thread!

Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by djustl

Did you try a full TV reset?

I had an HDMI problem last year when I tried to hook a TivoHD up to my 52HM94. I had an upconverting DVD player that worked fine using the HDMI port, but I attempted to add an HDMI switch into the mix so I could use by the DVD player and the Tivo. Once I started switching cables around, I wasn't able to get any of my devices to work, including my DVD player.

Originally Posted by whjeffs

I was able to fix things by doing a reset in the Setup menu. It seems like my TV's HDMI port got into some sort of state where no devices would work anymore, but the TV reset cleared it all up. I'd say try that if you haven't already.

I just did the full reset to factory defaults from the menu then unplugged the TV for about 30 seconds. So far it's working now but it also worked for awhile after I did the firmware upgrade which also required the TV to be unplugged at the end of the process. I'll report back here if it keeps working or not.

Jeff

I got 5 days out of the reset before the HDMI inputs stopped working again. I have a service call in on the TV so I'm not going to try anything else until the technician comes out and checks it.

TxSwede

02-06-09, 02:44 PM

masterp2

02-06-09, 02:49 PM

Junk

Absolute Junk.

TxSwede

02-06-09, 02:57 PM

Do you mean the light engine or the tv?

masterp2

02-06-09, 04:45 PM

any TV that requires $300 a year to maintain...is JUNK.

aphex

02-10-09, 02:01 PM

Anyone know where the part number is listed on the light engine?

I just gutted my tv, gonna try and either eBay the parts or sell them to TSM, who buys up old TV parts... My wife said she was sick of looking at the TV facing the wall in the kitchen, and I'm not spending $200+ to see if I can fix it, but with the chance that it will still have the same problem.

Snoopydoo1

02-13-09, 10:21 AM

sidvic999

02-13-09, 06:12 PM

Has anyone else had an issue where 1/2 the screen is lighter than the other? It's really noticable on dark scenes. It not a gradual lightening, it's exactly in the middle of the screen. The left side is nice and dark with good detail and the right side is kinda washed out a little. Could this be a problem with the light engine?

I have the 72hm195.

I used to have an intermittant problem where the picture on the right side wouldn't display, but haven't had that for over a year now. Wasn't just the signal, tv menus would also be affected. During warranty, the tech could never find the problem of course. :) Unplugging the tv to reset it would clear the problem, sometimes just turning it off and on would too.

Did you ever resolve this half screen deal? My 72HM195 has had this also for a long time.

Snoopydoo1

02-19-09, 02:21 PM

Hi,

I forgot to mention my model is a 52HMX85. Can someone please indicate to me the procedure to find out how many hours I'v had on my current lamp/bulb?

Also, how can I know if the hours were reset after replacing a lamp/bulb?

Thanks

Marc

IB MIke

02-22-09, 02:33 AM

Hi,

I know this has been mentioned before but I can't start looking throuhg hundreds of pages to find it so this is why I am posting my question: what is the procedure to find out how many hours I'v had on my current lamp/bulb?

Also, how can I know if the hours were reset after replacing a lamp/bulb?

Thanks

Try this:

With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen

2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen

3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -

4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.

5. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.

6. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous.

NR4P

02-22-09, 08:53 AM

Guys, I'm new to this forum but i have been reading a lot and trying to come up to speed. Unfortunately my Toshiba just ran out of the 3 year extended warantee last November and now I have ben told that the light engine needs to be replaced. I have found them available at the PartStore for $350. I would sure like to hear from someone that has done this replacement themselves and get a feel how difficult it was. I downloaded the service nmanual, but it really does not go into any detail about how the light engine is removed/replaced. Any help or giudance would be appreciated.

Hopefully i placed this post in the right area.

Regards

I've replaced mine. But I'm not afraid to open up anything electronic I had a really bad color wheel noise, and got tired of waiting for Sears to come back and do the swap after the part arrived. It takes about an hour or so. This is all from memory but I think I have it all.

1. Remove back wires. UNPLUG THE TV!
2. Remove bulb assembly
3. Remove back cover
4. Remove the extra plastic cover that is where the actual projection lens is pointing at the main screen. Its above the light assembly.
5. Theres a series of big cables with connectors on the left side of the light engine to be removed. They unclip easily.
6. Remove light engine screws (note how they sit in "indents" for reassembly and alignment)
7. Remove screws on other main power supply, video assembly main tray to the left of the light engine. You need to move this about 6" during the process.
8. The real hard part is here. As you slide the light engine out towards the rear, you notice a bunch of wires going in two places. First is to the ballast assembly in the front of the light engine (front of set). As you slide the tray back, you have to reach around and unplug this from the ballast assembly.
9. You also will find a series of small black wires going to the fans. That is powered from the main tray. The one you loosened in step 6. You have to follow them and reach in behind the main tray and unplug them carefully. They route through the front bezel of the set but no need to remove the bezel. (Or you could cut and splice them but I don't recommend it).
10. If you got to this point, now reverse everything with the new light assembly in place. Be careful on the fan wires and ballast wires so you don't get them caught under the light assembly when you put the new one back.
11. Be sure the light assembly and other tray are secure in their nested slots so everything is in alignment.

jaylarb

02-22-09, 01:27 PM

Toshiba 62hmx84 - lamp lps mode?

Hi all,

I'm having a problem with my Toshiba 62hmx84 TV. When I try to turn it on, the green light links on and off in 1 second intervals, with the red light off the whole time. The owner's manual doesn't have this scenario in its LED indications table, but the service manual does.

owner's manual:
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpasse...hmx84_om_e.pdf

service manual:
http://www.box.net/shared/or0btlh8eh

The service manual gives the following condition for this scenario: Lamp LPS mode. But, it doesn't give any details about what Lamp LPS mode means! I have searched AVS Forum as well as google and haven't found any matches.

I'm on my third lamp, just replaced it in the last 60 days, so I don't think it's the problem.

I've read other posts about the ballast being bad, but I thought I'd ask first, to see if anyone could shed light on the "Lamp LPS mode" meaning. Thanks in advance for your help.

BAMA Man

02-22-09, 01:52 PM

I've replaced mine. But I'm not afraid to open up anything electronic I had a really bad color wheel noise, and got tired of waiting for Sears to come back and do the swap after the part arrived. It takes about an hour or so. This is all from memory but I think I have it all.

1. Remove back wires. UNPLUG THE TV!
2. Remove bulb assembly
3. Remove back cover
4. Remove the extra plastic cover that is where the actual projection lens is pointing at the main screen. Its above the light assembly.
5. Theres a series of big cables with connectors on the left side of the light engine to be removed. They unclip easily.
6. Remove light engine screws (note how they sit in "indents" for reassembly and alignment)
7. Remove screws on other main power supply, video assembly main tray to the left of the light engine. You need to move this about 6" during the process.
8. The real hard part is here. As you slide the light engine out towards the rear, you notice a bunch of wires going in two places. First is to the ballast assembly in the front of the light engine (front of set). As you slide the tray back, you have to reach around and unplug this from the ballast assembly.
9. You also will find a series of small black wires going to the fans. That is powered from the main tray. The one you loosened in step 6. You have to follow them and reach in behind the main tray and unplug them carefully. They route through the front bezel of the set but no need to remove the bezel. (Or you could cut and splice them but I don't recommend it).
10. If you got to this point, now reverse everything with the new light assembly in place. Be careful on the fan wires and ballast wires so you don't get them caught under the light assembly when you put the new one back.
11. Be sure the light assembly and other tray are secure in their nested slots so everything is in alignment.

You have to also calibrate the light engine to your particular TV. In the service manual there is a code system and steps you need to reprogram the tv using the numbers on the light engine itself. Its been awhile for me so I cant be more specific. Its actually easier then installing the LE.

BAMA Man

02-22-09, 01:55 PM

The replacement ballast I used for my 62HMX94 was part number 23122468P and cost around $60.00. I used this excellent post as an installation guide:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492&highlight=toshiba+ballast+replacement

Where did you find it for $60.00. The cheapest I can find it for my 52HM95 is $110.00?

Mike

dtomlinson

02-22-09, 03:37 PM

Where did you find it for $60.00. The cheapest I can find it for my 52HM95 is $110.00?

Mike

I got it at Tiger Direct Parts Search, but they show that part as no longer available. They do have a refurbished ballast board for under $90.00.

http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468/Refurbished.aspx

BAMA Man

02-22-09, 06:26 PM

I got it at Tiger Direct Parts Search, but they show that part as no longer available. They do have a refurbished ballast board for under $90.00.

http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468/Refurbished.aspx

Thanks for taking the time to look it up.

I wanted to post a problem I solved. My 52hm95 was starting to have some problems. In medium to dark scenes the colors especially red and black would start blotching and looking like it was bleeding. Peoples skin tone started lookin blotchy like they had rosatia (spelling). The blacks were turning brown and purple. Its was getting unnerving. Then in low lamp mode it looked like the bulb was blinking, like faint flashing in the background and it got worse to the point that it was even doing it all the time in bright.

Well before I decided to get a new Light Engine assembly I decided to clean it all up. I took out the LE and the power assemblies and used compressed air to blow the large amounts of dust out. Let it sit for awhile and repeat until I felt good about removing all the dust. I cleaned the lense, pulled the color wheel cover and cleaned the wheel and the little glass that sits between it and the bulb. Pulled the bulb, and front lenses and cleaned everything. used some compressed air to spin the color wheel fast for just a second or so. The reasembled.

Problems gone! Picture is fantastic like it was new. I will do this every year instead every 4:rolleyes:

Even though I'm only on my second bulb in 4 years (first went out in first 3 months) I think this may help keep the buld cool and lasting longer. Dust is a killer.

BAMA Man

02-22-09, 06:34 PM

IB MIke

02-22-09, 10:35 PM

All right, after a couple hours reading up on this, I still can't find anything here or via Google directly stating the ballast # for the 62HM196. Is it the 23122468 (+P for refurb)?

Cheapest price I've found (haven't checked ebay yet) is $87. I guess the run on them has resulted in a price increase, as sub-$50 prices have been quoted numerous times.

I just replaced my bulb for the second time. Bulb worked on install... put everything back together and moved the TV back in place and then got audio, but no video. Took it all apart, put back together several times and finally it would work. Next morning... back to no video. Repeat for 3 days... :mad:

From all my reading, sounds like the ballast... but I've had no noises, pre-bulb blow or after.

Thanks for all the great data on the site, and in advance for answering this question!

dtomlinson

02-22-09, 10:48 PM

[QUOTE=IB MIke;15888745]All right, after a couple hours reading up on this, I still can't find anything here or via Google directly stating the ballast # for the 62HM196. Is it the 23122468 (+P for refurb)?

My understanding....from other posts here.....is that the "P" model was an aftermarket part while the non-"P" was a Toshiba factory part. I can't attest to the truth of this, but it makes sense. The "P" model appeared identical to the factory part I replaced.

[QUOTE=IB MIke;15888745]"From all my reading, sounds like the ballast... but I've had no noises, pre-bulb blow or after."

I had no noises, either, but the ballast replacement definitely fixed my intermittent bulb start-up problem.

BAMA Man

02-23-09, 07:19 PM

GridIron

02-25-09, 12:44 AM

Does anybody have an idea of how long the lamps last in these TV's? The guy I bought it from at BestBuy told me about a year. Has this been your experience also?

Thanks!!

aphex

02-25-09, 03:48 PM

Can anyone help me determine what the model # is on the Light Engine for my 46HM95?

I'm gonna try and sell it but I can't figure out which # is which;

http://homepage.mac.com/josh.h/pics/lightengine1.jpg

BAMA Man

02-27-09, 07:34 PM

The bar codes on the right are the numbers used to calibrate the LE.

If your looking for a part number for that LE its 23405473.

BAMA Man

02-27-09, 07:39 PM

It varies. They've been lasting from 6 months to 4 years. Its hard to determine because most posts are complaints about it not lasting. So someone who has not had to change the bulb is not going to post.

I would just count on a year.That way anything past that is gravy. I've had my last bulb for 2 years the one before was 1 year and two 6 monthers before that. My currents been in for 6 months.

GridIron

03-01-09, 02:09 AM

simplyxtrippin

03-01-09, 08:30 PM

i have a 50hm67. bulb blew yesterday. where do you guys recommend buying one? its $230 at ceaccesories .com. I've seen some online that are cheaper but im not sure if they're any good. what would you guys do? which vendor? oem or aftermarket? price?

thanks

joecamel

03-07-09, 01:29 PM

TV is a Toshiba 52HM95.
I’ve owned the TV for two years now. The picture has always been superb until a couple of months ago. For some reason, two problems popped up (and they weren’t simultaneous, as I recall.) I get an irregular flashing blue light that permeates through part of the picture. I think this may be unclean power, but not too certain. I am also experiencing an issue with color/contrast. This isn’t a user setting issue – I can calibrate the TV with my calibration DVD but it doesn’t help. In bright scenes, the picture is still pretty decent. In high-contrast scenes (light and dark) or purely dark scenes, it’s horrible - almost unwatchable. All the dark areas look red-brown and are muddied and areas where there should be a gradual fading of color are just sick. I’m including a one minute video clip of a movie review show which illustrates the problems. There is also a picture which shows the color/contrast issue: regarding the color/contrast issue, notice the background behind the movie reviewers on both the picture and video and the faces (red and green bands and brown muddiness in dark areas) in the clips of the video. Any ideas?

My problem is similar. TV is 62HM95, a few years old. Flicker started about a week before the bulb popped, and continues with new bulb. The color problem was probably present before, but is now obvious with new bulb. Shadows and dark areas have a red or green tint to them. Solid colors have bright, dynamic spots that can be minimized with adjusting brightness/contrast. Problems occur regardless of inputs used, regardless of definition (sd/hd), regardless of lamp power. From reading posts it is likely a dust issue, but I want to be certain before opening it up. If anyone has a service manual, I would appreciate it being posted. If I have to buy it, I will post it for others. Any advice will be appreciated. The quote had links that I cannot post.

BAMA Man

03-07-09, 05:45 PM

My problem is similar. TV is 62HM95, a few years old. Flicker started about a week before the bulb popped, and continues with new bulb. The color problem was probably present before, but is now obvious with new bulb. Shadows and dark areas have a red or green tint to them. Solid colors have bright, dynamic spots that can be minimized with adjusting brightness/contrast. Problems occur regardless of inputs used, regardless of definition (sd/hd), regardless of lamp power. From reading posts it is likely a dust issue, but I want to be certain before opening it up. If anyone has a service manual, I would appreciate it being posted. If I have to buy it, I will post it for others. Any advice will be appreciated. The quote had links that I cannot post.

Joe,
I know it sounds crazy but my problems are exactly as described by weatherman. I found nothing in my manual and online the replacement of color wheels and ballast did not match my problem. I was a click away from buying those items anyway but decided to open it up slide out the two main parts (power and board, LE) and blow out the dust. My TV pulls power inward on the left side and back side so its constantly pushing air/dust into the set. Now my picture looks as good as new. The reds and blacks are very good. Just amazing.

BAMA Man

03-07-09, 05:48 PM

My problem is similar. TV is 62HM95, a few years old. Flicker started about a week before the bulb popped, and continues with new bulb. The color problem was probably present before, but is now obvious with new bulb. Shadows and dark areas have a red or green tint to them. Solid colors have bright, dynamic spots that can be minimized with adjusting brightness/contrast. Problems occur regardless of inputs used, regardless of definition (sd/hd), regardless of lamp power. From reading posts it is likely a dust issue, but I want to be certain before opening it up. If anyone has a service manual, I would appreciate it being posted. If I have to buy it, I will post it for others. Any advice will be appreciated. The quote had links that I cannot post.

Oh an Joe one thing to try to see if its the same as my problem. Put your setting on Low Lamp and see if it blinks more. If you've been on low put it on high and see if its better. When I dropped my to low my girls actually gasped at the difference. Took my wife a few minutes to get the blinking.

joecamel

03-08-09, 11:35 AM

Oh an Joe one thing to try to see if its the same as my problem. Put your setting on Low Lamp and see if it blinks more. If you've been on low put it on high and see if its better. When I dropped my to low my girls actually gasped at the difference. Took my wife a few minutes to get the blinking.
I double checked and switching the lamp to high bright made the flicker stop, but the color problem was still present. Looks like I will need to set some time aside for a little cleaning. Thanks for the quick response.

masterp2

03-08-09, 02:52 PM

My 50" is for sale...CHEAP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300298362574&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123

BAMA Man

03-09-09, 05:42 PM

I double checked and switching the lamp to high bright made the flicker stop, but the color problem was still present. Looks like I will need to set some time aside for a little cleaning. Thanks for the quick response.

Yep did nothing for my color too. Get ready you are going to be amazed at the amount of dust.

I used a compressor with a blower tip but most use the canned co2. After blowing and waiting and doing so again...and wait. I then carefully removed the color wheel cover and hit that with air. I gently lifted up the square lense glass (found between the wheel and bulb) and used a microfiber to clean it and some air on the wheel and covered it. Becarefull its delicate on its edges.

Then I took all the screws out to clean the front TV screen and big mirror. However oddly enough I did not find a lot of dust there so you may want to skip that part.

You'll be shocked at the return to color that your TV once had. :eek::D

pyngthyngs

03-09-09, 10:20 PM

Yep did nothing for my color too. Get ready you are going to be amazed at the amount of dust.

I used a compressor with a blower tip but most use the canned co2. After blowing and waiting and doing so again...and wait. I then carefully removed the color wheel cover and hit that with air. I gently lifted up the square lense glass (found between the wheel and bulb) and used a microfiber to clean it and some air on the wheel and covered it. Becarefull its delicate on its edges.

Then I took all the screws out to clean the front TV screen and big mirror. However oddly enough I did not find a lot of dust there so you may want to skip that part.

You'll be shocked at the return to color that your TV once had. :eek::D

I'm not quite sure I need to do this yet since I've had my Toshiba DLP for maybe two years now. Luckily I haven't noticed any noticeable flicker or loss of color, but when I do I know exactly where to come for a manual on cleaning it.

To tell you the truth though, I'm a little concerned that I'll break something in there.

When you did clean your Toshiba did you replace the lamp at the same time while you where "operating". :D

slubu

03-10-09, 11:41 PM

If this helps anyone, my 52HM84 blew at 4360 hours, lasted 3.5 years.

BAMA Man

03-11-09, 10:15 PM

I'm not quite sure I need to do this yet since I've had my Toshiba DLP for maybe two years now. Luckily I haven't noticed any noticeable flicker or loss of color, but when I do I know exactly where to come for a manual on cleaning it.

To tell you the truth though, I'm a little concerned that I'll break something in there.

When you did clean your Toshiba did you replace the lamp at the same time while you where "operating". :D

No I didnt replace the bulb at that time. I had replaced it about a month prior.

I may have been a little to "intu-it" when I did it but you'd be surprised how easy it is to do. The TV is made into 3 main pieces. The screen and mirror assembly, the Light engine and its casement, and the power and circuit boards and its casement. The LE casement holds the LE, the color wheel assembly, and the bulb. I removed the bulb so I could clean it also but you dont have to.

The two casements at the bottom are very easy to slide out and you dont have to slide them more then 4-5 inches to blow the dust out. You would need to slide it more to pull the color wheel cover off though.

Gently pull itand unplug the few wires and disconect this plastic lens hood and thats pretty much it. A lot easier then the old CRT tv's. Similar to pulling a video card, or hard drive out of a computer.

Brentsky

03-12-09, 03:51 AM

:(I have a 50HM67 50" DLP that the Lamp recently blew on.
I have replaced the lamp and after doing so the tv would still not come on but for maybe 1 out of every ten times I would hit the power button.
It would otherwise give the Lamp not working message.

I took the back panel off and when the power button was hit the lamp would light up for about a second then go off when it wouldn't work.
Now tonight the TV just went blank on the screen as we were watching it.
The lamp was pulled and it looks to be perfect.
The other thing I noticed was that it would no longer light up at all when the power is pushed now.
Ive read that it could be the ballast was failing.
Does that sound right ?
Also I have checked a few places and the ballast isn't available anymore.

If it is the ballast does anyone know where I can purchase one.
The Toshiba part # was 75010017 and it was a 150W ballast.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

joecamel

03-13-09, 04:27 PM

Yep did nothing for my color too. Get ready you are going to be amazed at the amount of dust.

I used a compressor with a blower tip but most use the canned co2. After blowing and waiting and doing so again...and wait. I then carefully removed the color wheel cover and hit that with air. I gently lifted up the square lense glass (found between the wheel and bulb) and used a microfiber to clean it and some air on the wheel and covered it. Becarefull its delicate on its edges.

Then I took all the screws out to clean the front TV screen and big mirror. However oddly enough I did not find a lot of dust there so you may want to skip that part.

You'll be shocked at the return to color that your TV once had. :eek::D
Cleaning solved my problem. No flicker and the color is perfect. I cleaned out the color wheel and the glass inside the color wheel holder. I also cleaned the LE lens and all four fans as well as all the boards. I didn't have micro-fiber cloth, so I used canned air on everything. It was easier than I anticipated, and I am loving my now new TV. Many thanks to BAMA Man.

BAMA Man

03-14-09, 09:14 PM

Cleaning solved my problem. No flicker and the color is perfect. I cleaned out the color wheel and the glass inside the color wheel holder. I also cleaned the LE lens and all four fans as well as all the boards. I didn't have micro-fiber cloth, so I used canned air on everything. It was easier than I anticipated, and I am loving my now new TV. Many thanks to BAMA Man.

And the best part is that its a FREE FIX:eek:

DeadmanInc

03-15-09, 06:08 PM

And the best part is that its a FREE FIX:eek:

BAMA Man, it looks like I've run into the same problem you have with your set (I have the 52HMX85). I was wondering if you wouldn't mind a listing out a quick run down of what you need to disconnect, unscrew and clean on these sets. While I don't normally mind taking things apart, I don't want to take more apart than what is required. Thanks.

BAMA Man

03-16-09, 07:26 PM

BAMA Man, it looks like I've run into the same problem you have with your set (I have the 52HMX85). I was wondering if you wouldn't mind a listing out a quick run down of what you need to disconnect, unscrew and clean on these sets. While I don't normally mind taking things apart, I don't want to take more apart than what is required. Thanks.

I'm not an expert by no means. It was only the second time I opened the back of the set. I cant go into too much detail because I cant remember every step but here are the basics.

Pull the bulb out per your instructions. You dont have to do this I did it just to clean the bulb.

Pull the back panel off (lots of screws)

You'll notice that the system is on two seperate component type racks which make it fairly simple. The LE is on the right and the power and circuit boards are on the left component rack. After you unscrew them you'll see they can be slid out. As you slide it you'll notice some "plugged" wires coming from the left component rack to the LE comp rack. Just unplug them. Then start slowly pulling the right then left racks out together. You'll feel resistance from a plastic shield that sits above the racks in the middle just unscrew it and carefully pull it out.

Pull the racks out about a 1/3 of the way (more or less whatever makes you comfortable.) You mostly want the right one with the LE and color wheel assembly because thats where most of the cleaning has an effect on the TV.

Blow off the dust (you'll be amazed at the amount of dust.) Wait a while and do it again. You can blow air or use a microfiber cloth on the LE lense. If you want to really get in it gently pull the cover off of the Color wheel assembly (four screws I believe) just gently set it aside because a ribbon wire will be attached. Blow air in there. There is also a little square lense that just sits in a slotted holder between the color wheel and the where the bulb goes. You can just gently lift it out to clean. Be carefull its fragile.

Just be slow and carefull, unplug what you can becarefull of any ribbon cords and you should be fine. Its more intimidating then it is hard.

Everything slides right back in place. Took me about 90 minutes including pulling the front lenses off the TV and cleaning replacing. You may want to skip this part though I didnt have a lot of dust.

Good luck.

DeadmanInc

03-16-09, 10:44 PM

mattcoz

03-17-09, 05:40 PM

bigdaddy10

03-17-09, 10:17 PM

My 62HMX94 had issues playing out of the analogue ports. I have an extended extendeded warranty and I called in to have the TV looked at. The television needed a part replaced on it. After a 3 month wait the part is now showing as No longer available. Initially the part was always listed as "On Back Order". The T.V. can not be repaired so it will have to be replaced or cut me a check.

dtomlinson

03-18-09, 01:48 AM

I'm pretty sure this is just my lamp dying, but it isn't like what happened with my last two and I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something else.

When I power on my TV, I usually get the blinking lights as if the lamp was dead, but after a few times it finally turns on. At that point it takes a long time to warm up, but once it does it looks fine. This started over a month ago, and it is gradually getting worse. The lamp is 7 months old now.

I have other problems with this TV, so I'm willing to get a new one if this is something more serious than a lamp.

Sounds like the ballast is going bad. The part is under $100.00 and it's a relatively easy do-it-yourself job if you're a little handy with basic tools. There are several good posts on this forum on the subject, including one with pictures. Good luck.

IMASA

03-18-09, 11:09 PM

Hi everyone,

I have a 52HMX85 that's starting to make a buzzing sound when it starts up and comes on until the unit is powered off. At first I thought it was a fan, but after searching online, it seems like it could be the color wheel. The picture quality is normal though. The buzzing is annoying since I have to turn up the volume past 40 in order to hear past the buzzing sound.

Anyways, I've searched around the threads about light engine replacement and saw the service manual posted for the 52HM84. I went ahead and took apart the panel and cleaned the 2 fans that I could see, but it's still buzzing.

I searched around and you can buy just the color wheel, so I wanted to see if I could take it out and replace it myself if needed. I tried to take out the light engine to see if I could get to the color wheel but I couldn't figure out how to access it. There's a plastic cover around the color wheel which I can't get completely off, and even still the color wheel looks like it's incased into what looks like the ballast. The 52HMX85's light engine is different than the 52HM84, so the service manual didn't really help.

Any suggestions or perhaps pics with instructions from fellow 52HMX85 owners?

Lastly, any other suggestions what my problem could be? Seems like with these TV's, it's either the bulb, ballast or color wheel. I'm assuming my ballast is fine because my picture is fine, correct?

Thanks for any help.

BAMA Man

03-20-09, 09:56 AM

Awsome! Thanks for taking the time to write that out. I was reading on another forum where the guy took the front bezel and screen out to perform the same "cleaning". I'll give your way a go first.

When I first noticed this weird banding effect I assumed it was a problem with the source material from my satellite, then playing DVD and MKV from my HTPC. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to get this cleaned out.

Your welcome. I also took my front bezel and screen out and apart. The only thing that was dirty though was the mirror behind that assembly. So if your going to do that I would recommend removing the front lense/cover/besel but not taking them apart. That way you can access the mirror and clean it. Oddly enough my mirror was not that dusty...but I cleaned it anyway.

Snoopydoo1

03-23-09, 10:53 AM

Hi,

My lamp just blew up in my Toshiba 52HMX85 set.

Where in Canada can I buy the new lamp and at the best price?

Thanks

Marc :(

Brentsky

03-23-09, 03:16 PM

Personally I would check Ebay for your lamp

D95-LMP
23311153
23311153A
LV-672
are the various part numbers

DeadmanInc

03-26-09, 07:50 PM

Ok, I finally got around to cleaning my set over the weekend. Although both my wife and I had noticed that it's much brighter and colours are more vibrant, it still hasn't fix the problem I'm having.

I've noticed that reddish colours have a major banding issues, especially when fading to a darker colour. Is this something that's easily fixed? I tried taking the cover off the colour wheel, but one of the screws was in too tight and I ended up stripping it a bit.

Does the whole LE need to be replaced, or is there a cheaper alternative? Thanks.

BAMA Man

03-26-09, 08:08 PM

DeadmanInc

03-26-09, 08:34 PM

Sorry to hear that. As far as the cover goes are you saying you never go it off because of the one screw? What do you mean by banding and is it red only? Are your blacks a brownish purplish color.

Yes brownish purple...

Yeah one screw kept me from taking the cover off (not the plastic cover).

masterp2

03-26-09, 10:44 PM

DeadmanInc

03-27-09, 11:09 AM

BAMA Man

03-28-09, 08:52 AM

Just dump it. You will thank me.

Every time I replace a lamp on this set, I spend as much as the TV before this one cost new.

It is so freaky to me that this industry has hypnotized so many millions of people to accept such poor quality crap, at such premium prices.

Actually I was just about to do that on mine when just a cleaning fixed it. But I've had mine since 2004 and the 3 lamps were all under warranty. If it breaks again I'll probably do that. I do like the DLPs because to me they seem to handle motion a little better then comprable LCDs.

I dont think this industry hypnotized folks to accept such a poor quality crap. I think it was more that they mislead folks. I dont think people buy them thinking their going to be crap. Once purchased you execpt not to have problems and when you do you dont want to just piss away the initial cost. Its a balancing act. In any case, two other reasons I disagree is that the DLP has left some co lineups and doing so hurts any further business for that CO. I wont be buying Tosh for a while just like I did Sony back when they were becoming junk. Jusy my opinion.

BAMA Man

03-28-09, 09:02 AM

Yes brownish purple...

Yeah one screw kept me from taking the cover off (not the plastic cover).

Thats what mine had. Yes its not the plastic cover the metal one that has 4 little screws one in each corner. Under that is the color wheel.

This is my opinion/guess so please dont take it as gospel. If your cant live with it then before you dispose of it try get that cover off because I think its dust on the wheel.

Of course I cant remember exactly but when the bulb is removed and the little clear square lense is lifted can you blow some air threw the side in the direction of the wheel? Or do you need to get the cover off to get the clear lense off???

celwin

04-06-09, 04:06 PM

I have a 46HM95. There is a white shadow on the middle bottom of the screen shaped like a triangle. You don't really notice it that much except during certain scenes and if you approach the tv from the side. I recently replaced the lamp, but that did not seem to have any effect. Anyone have any ideas if a cleaning would solve this or does the LE need replacing?

celwin

04-11-09, 08:31 AM

Thanks to BAMA Man tips, the cleaning of the light engine solved my problem. For those thinking of doing the same, it really isn't that difficult; But having the service manual helps tremendously; Saved me a bundle by doing it myself. I used compressed air to clean off the dust from everything and also a lint free LCD cleaning cloth for the lens on the LE. My white shadow that was irritating me is gone.

RappWizard

04-12-09, 12:36 PM

Hunter Green

04-12-09, 10:07 PM

mathrandir

04-18-09, 10:59 AM

Here's a new one on me. There's a spider somewhere inside my 62HM195. It looked like it was walking on the screen but when I went to brush it off, it was just the shadow; it's inside. Sometimes we don't see it but sometimes it walks up and down the screen. It's been there for two days now, on and off. Anyone know what I need to do to get it out? Anyone know what harm, if any, it might do while it's in there?

I haven't had a spider yet, but I have had 1 or 2 flies the past couple summers. It freaked me out the first time it happened, but they haven't done any damage. They're usually there for a couple of days, don't know if they find their way back out, or just die in there. No damage yet, but definitely annoying.

old_skool

04-18-09, 12:10 PM

doug1340

04-19-09, 09:05 AM

Hello. The picture on my Toshiba HM195 has started going crazy which I can only describe as bright red and pink psychedic ghosting images especially if the TV show uses alot of graphic displays. I don't think its the bulb which I replaced about 9 months ago. In order to decrease the problem I have to turn the contrast level down to about 10% which obviously darkens the picture. Anybody care to venture a guess as to the problem Thank you in advance.
I have the same problem you describe on a 72MX195. Turned it one one day back in December, and the pinkish artifacts were shooting off to the right from several areas of the screen. They originated from brighter, high contrast displayed screen areas; like graphics.... As the contrast setting was lowered, the pinkish lines would lessen, and they would be gone when the setting reached about 10-15.

I had an extended warranty on the set, placed a service call, and the tech said "it's the optics, you'll need a new light engine". (I had already tried a new bulb, since I keep a spare). After waiting over 3 months for the service guy to receive a light engine, and never getting one, I successfully got a cash settlement from the warranty company a few weeks ago that allowed me to go out and get a new Mitsu 73736.

I still have my 'broken' Toshiba here, and have tried unsuccessfully to get a light engine on my own, but figure I'll keep trying.

Hunter Green

04-20-09, 09:43 AM

I haven't had a spider yet, but I have had 1 or 2 flies the past couple summers. It freaked me out the first time it happened, but they haven't done any damage. They're usually there for a couple of days, don't know if they find their way back out, or just die in there. No damage yet, but definitely annoying.
My spider seems to have left or died, or at least I haven't seen it in a half-week or so. Here's to hoping.

mtom5

04-20-09, 01:32 PM

I don't know what the voltages are or anything like that - all I know is that I replaced my ballast board last Sept(08) and I have not had any trouble with my 52HM84 since then (after replacing my bulb 4 times in the previous three years)

old_skool

04-21-09, 08:42 PM

Does anybody know what the input and output DC voltages are for your lamp ballast? I have a 52HM84 that has blown a couple of lamps and wanted to make sure I have the correct voltage to the lamp.

Thanks

Can anybody test this for me that owns a Toshiba. I have got the TV torn apart for days now and really need this info.

jumpinjoe

04-25-09, 05:34 PM

old_skool

04-26-09, 07:33 PM

My DLP just started acting up. Top half of the screen looks fine but the bottom half has interference and looks like a grid of rectangles. Any thoughts on what's causing it or how I can fix it? Did a system reset and it did not work, and it does it regardless of the input.

Your issue sounds like a processing issue with the digital DMD board (board with the DLP chip). I have some more information if you want, PM me. I have the service manual. Also if you could measure the input/output DC voltage of your ballast board you could help me out.

RappWizard

04-26-09, 07:51 PM

I have the same problem you describe on a 72MX195. Turned it one one day back in December, and the pinkish artifacts were shooting off to the right from several areas of the screen. They originated from brighter, high contrast displayed screen areas; like graphics.... As the contrast setting was lowered, the pinkish lines would lessen, and they would be gone when the setting reached about 10-15.

I had an extended warranty on the set, placed a service call, and the tech said "it's the optics, you'll need a new light engine". (I had already tried a new bulb, since I keep a spare). After waiting over 3 months for the service guy to receive a light engine, and never getting one, I successfully got a cash settlement from the warranty company a few weeks ago that allowed me to go out and get a new Mitsu 73736.

I still have my 'broken' Toshiba here, and have tried unsuccessfully to get a light engine on my own, but figure I'll keep trying.

Doug1340, thank you for the very informative reply. Can I ask which warranty company you have on the Toshiba? Mine is with Mack.
That's incredible that the warranty company is kicking in for a new TV. Was there alot of haggling. I was quite happy with my Toshiba until this latest episode. Thanks again.

TiredOfTvIssues

05-03-09, 02:09 PM

I have scoured this forum and wish I had found it BEFORE I bought this TV. I think I got a lemon! I bought a Toshiba 52HMX84 in 2005 and less than a week after the warranty expired, the lamp needed replacing, which we all know is a $200 hit! Then, last year, I had to replace the entire color wheel/light assembly when the picture completely went out, which cost close to $900 to repair at our local TV shop. Then last night, while we were watching, the sound just quit. There was a small static-like sound and that was it! The picture is still there, and admittedly gorgeous, but not one drop of sound. We have a receiver hooked up that seems to be working (we're able to hear a radio station) and we've tried turning the TV speakers back on, the DVD player, everything we can think of and still no sound through any device at all. Any idea what could be causing this latest problem?

BAMA Man

05-03-09, 03:45 PM

Elrowyn

05-03-09, 03:55 PM

My toshiba 62mx195 light engine went bad 5-6 months ago. I've had this TV for 2 years and 9 months. Luckily my 3 year warranty covered the TV. They could not find the light engine replacement so I got almost a full check refund for the original purchase price.

At first I thought it was the bulb but I bought a new one and that didn't fix it. To whoever was looking for a bulb I can send you mine it's got less than 500 hours on it. But if we aren't allowed to do that please don't bother, I'll sell it on craigslist.

TiredOfTvIssues

05-03-09, 05:15 PM

My sound never makes it to the TV. It goes straight from dish to dish receiver to AV Receiver to speakers. Sounds like you have either a dish/cable receiver problem or a AV receiver problem.

You're right BAMA Man. Our sound never made it through the TV either because it's connected to the the cable box and receiver. But then something "snapped" last night and the sound completely stopped on the recorded progam we were watching on DVR so we disconnected the receiver (which seems to be working) and tried the TV speakers. Nothing. Tried the XBox 360. Still Nothing. Both the cable box and XBox are connected via HDMI, but tried the DVD player which is connected via Colorstream and still no sound, even after splitting the audio and video signals up to have the video IN to the TV and the Audio IN to the receiver. As I said before, my receiver can still play the radio just fine so I don't THINK it's that, but...? I've read on this forum about HDMI ports going bad, but that doesn't sound like our problem either. Is there a sound card or another part of the TV that might have malfunctioned to cause this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

TiredOfTvIssues

05-03-09, 06:55 PM

Thanks to you BAMA Man and this forum! We were able to disconnect everything to test an HDMI connection- nothing. Then we tried the colorstream connection and it WORKED! Thus realizing it was the CABLE BOX that stopped transmitting sound via HDMI! Called them, they sent a signal and we're back up and running. I am so relieved- didn't want to spend any more $$$ on this TV if possible!

xssx

05-04-09, 04:55 AM

i have the 65hm167 anybody know how to fix the program guide to show the correct time zone and whats coming on next as i bought a converter box for my analog tv for the bedroom and its able to do all that

Unoriginal Name

05-05-09, 09:58 AM

doug1340

05-05-09, 09:35 PM

Doug1340, thank you for the very informative reply. Can I ask which warranty company you have on the Toshiba? Mine is with Mack.
That's incredible that the warranty company is kicking in for a new TV. Was there alot of haggling. I was quite happy with my Toshiba until this latest episode. Thanks again.
My warranty was with Phillips, and there was really no haggling involved. I could never get a straight answer from anyone for the first couple months about what their policy was if parts could not be found, but in the end they came through for me. Once I made it through the 90 days, the rep handling my claim was easy to deal with and gave me the option of getting a Samsung HL72A650 shipped to me or cashing out. I took the latter and went for the Mitsubishi, which I'm very satisfied with so far.

masterp2

05-05-09, 11:06 PM

The Toshiba warranty is worthless, as are the customer support.

If you buy a Toshiba TV, you better factor in the cost of a warranty upgrade, because Toshiba will not be there for you.

This is based on my personal experience with this TV, which is now owned by someone else who will have to suffer.

So how much does a 15 year warranty cost? That is what is needed.

Hunter Green

05-07-09, 08:37 AM

I have a Toshiba 46HM95. According to the manual it says not to hook a computer to the television. Has anyone hooked a computer to a 46HM95? What are the pitfalls if any of connecting a computer to the television when the manual tells you not to?

Thanks.

I've hooked computers to my 62HM195 and provided your computer has the right connection and drivers it looks amazing. The pitfalls are mostly that they don't want to have to offer technical support for dealing with the complexities of DVI-to-HDMI adapters and drivers that don't offer the right settings, which can get pretty hairy complex.

Shredded

05-07-09, 05:59 PM

BAMA Man

05-07-09, 07:30 PM

So about 2 years ago i purchased a Toshiba 57 inch 1080p DLP. I dont know if it has always had this problem and i just noticed it or if this happend recently, the picture quality and everything is still fine, looks just as good as when i first got it, but the picture is now crooked i guess you would say, like its tilting a little to the right. Is there any way i can fix this myself, or will i need a professional to repair it, if so i may just have to live with it, becuase being a college student i cant afford a 200 dollar repair or so. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I'm only guessing because I'm not sure about your model TV mine is an older 720, but your pic could be two things. One is mechanical in that something in your light engine or front lense assembly has shifted. Or two there could be something that is in the programing. Now that I've stated the obvious I can get to what I would do. I would see if I could find out how to get to the maintanence menu and find out which code(s) work the picture alignment. It will take a lot of research but can be done. You may even be able to find it on this thread. If that doesnt work the next thing is to take it apart and see if any part of the lens or mirror (located behind the lense) has shifted.

On my TV the LE sends the picture up through a hole directly at a mirror. The mirror is almost as big as the screen. The image reflects off that mirror on to the screen you look at in the front of your TV. It could be that whatever is fastening that mirror on to the back of the TV has come loose.

Read up before doing anything to your TV and realize your on your own if you decide to open it up. Also, be carefull and unplug the tv first.

Good luck. Please note I am not a TV repair person..only a cheapo that hates to pay for repairs.:o

xxyoyixx

05-11-09, 09:59 PM

jratch66

05-19-09, 05:44 PM

I have read through most of this forum, but seem to have a unique problem. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I was recently given a 46hm94 with what I was told was a failed lamp. After replacement I realized the set has a much bigger problem. All colors are badly altered, with reds and greens seemingly the worst. Blinking pixels are visible. The problem is apparent on all inputs. It almost looks like component cable setup with one cable not plugged in. I have attached examples and would appreciate any advice. I have just taken the whole set apart and cleaned it hoping it was just dust, and while I did find a lot, no improvement was seen in the picture.

Thanks for your help!

tnim

05-28-09, 09:19 PM

Hey, first time poster.

I bought a 62HM196 about 23 months ago and today when turning on the tv i heard a "pffff" and there was no display. The blue light is on and the yellow is also blinking. How do I tell if it is the lamp that has burnt out? Is there a way to tell. I haven't spoken to toshiba yet since their office closed, so I thought i'd post here.

I also can't remember how long the warranty is. Is a standard warranty 1 yr?

Thanks in advance.

-tniM

dtomlinson

05-28-09, 09:52 PM

Sounds like a bulb. After 23-months you're probably due. I wish I could get 23-months out of my 62HMX94! Check your owners manual for the error codes for your particular set to see if the blue and yellow lights indicate bulb failing to light. Sometimes, but not always, the bulb will obviously be burned out when you remove it and examine it. Another, but less likely, cause would be the ballast failing. When the bulb fails to light, the set will keep trying to fire it up (20-attempts if my memory serves me.) After each cycle of attempts you can turn the set off and then on again for another cycle. Often when the ballast fails the bulb will eventually light.

I think the warranty is one year, but because of all the bulb problems Toshiba has had with their DLP sets, some bulb warranties have been extended. You'd have to talk to Toshiba, or maybe another poster with knowledge of your specific set can answer that. I've got an older Toshiba DLP.

mtom5

05-29-09, 09:52 AM

The warranties on Toshiba bulb warranties used to be 6 months but I beleive this has been extended to 1 year as part of the class action lawsuit that Toshiba lost http://www.topclassactions.com/open/139-toshiba-dlp-lamp-class-action-lawsuit

tnim

05-29-09, 06:24 PM

Thanks for the info.

i just called Toshiba and they said its likely the lamp. I thought I have the manual, but it seems it's only the owners manual and not the operating guide. Does anyone have a link to the operating guide; I'm trying to find instructions for replacing the lamp. TIA.

dtomlinson

05-29-09, 09:19 PM

Here's a link to the full manual. I checked and it does have a lamp replacement section. If it's like mine you just open the door on the left side of the set, remove two screws and slide the bulb housing out. Reverse the process with the new bulb and you're done.

I guess we're not allowed to post a link as it keeps truncating it when I enter it. Just go to Crutchfield.com and search for your model. There's a link to the manual on that page.

tnim

05-30-09, 02:02 PM

thanks for the link! pulled out the old bulb and the bulb is indeed shattered.

I call toshiba and they gave me the number of the local service depot and their selling it for $220 CDN+tax. man, this sucks that it doesn't even last 2 yrs!

with the cost of LCDs dropping like crazy it hurts to pay $250 after tax!

Hunter Green

06-01-09, 08:19 AM

But when the LCD goes, the whole thing is gone, so that's still a lot more expensive in the long run. Plus the LCD will not simply go, it'll fade with time.

mtom5

06-01-09, 12:48 PM

Search ebay with the item number for your bulb - I have used ebay in the past and have paid around $150-160 for a new bulb (with warranty)

tnim

06-02-09, 09:19 PM

after reading a few post about the tv starting up and going black while using generic bulbs I bit the bullet and paid the $250 for the official Toshiba bulb. TV is working again.

I checked the lamp hours and it was at 2650hrs.

The model number of the new bulb was Y196-LMA instead of Y196-LMP. Does anyone know what the difference is? if any?

moopile

06-15-09, 11:42 AM

Just over 10,000 hrs on my 62hm95. Purchased in June 2006.

To date:
Currently on my 4th bulb. 1st one lasted until Nov. 2006. 2nd, Sent to me by Toshiba under warranty, lasted until Sept. 2008. 3rd I paid for and it lasted until March 2009 (This one was a generic one). 4th, Paid for and is still working (Toshiba Brand).

Now my tv has started a loud buzzing noise which starts when I turn it on and continues until several minutes after I turn it off. I've read this could be one of the following: bad ballast, bad fan, bad color wheel, bad light engine.

Also, all of the audio out's have quit working.

I now remember I bought an extended warranty with the tv through BB. Called them today and scheduled service on it for Wed.

Will see how this goes.

crazed_z06

06-16-09, 11:46 PM

Hey guys, I posted this in another forum, but I figure someone else in this thread may have seen this issue.. Here's the thread I started in the remotes section
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1156049

Basically for the first 10 mins that my TV is on, pressing an fuction for my Onkyo Receiver turns the TV OFF and ON..After that, everything's fine.. anyone seen this?

moopile

06-22-09, 08:03 PM

kevhed

06-26-09, 10:21 AM

Folks, I have a 46HM85 model (I believe) and I am on my 2nd bulb and 2nd ballast. What I have noticed is at times the entire picture seems to have the color "washed-out" and colors are not very vibrant. I usually have the bulb set to LOWER POWER, w/ the brightness setting cranked up to about 80%.

Question...do these bulbs loose their brightness over time? I would guess YES...but not sure. I am considering running the bulb on HIGH power full time due I have 2 spare new bulbs as a backup.

(Overall, this TV has been a pain in the ---)

toenail

06-27-09, 05:02 AM

Initially new bulb is bright as hell, then it settles down for the majority of it's lifespan. Toward the end it starts to dim, this is usually when I switch to HI/Bright. For my taste on my set, a new bulb on HI/Bright is an awful picture. YMMV.

DeeLux

07-06-09, 09:49 PM

MacBurglar

07-07-09, 12:02 AM

Hi Folks,

I have a 46HMX85 which started flashing red lights today. I shut it down for a while. Now it cannot see a signal through an HDMI cable. The cable is good, (I tested with another tv). Yet, it doesn't see my video components through HDMI. I only have one HDMI port. Component cables are fine.

When I went to diagnostics, there was a red box which states: "BLOCK: MAIN SUB". All the other codes were green.

Does anyone know what this means? Can I fix this myself with parts?

Thanks in advance.

moopile

07-07-09, 06:31 AM

I just starting having the same issue with my 46HM95.
Loud buzzing noise coming from the back once I turn the set on.

I read this thread back almost 2 years and still didn't find an answer to what the problem could be since buzzing is my only issue, no loss of picture or sound.
The last time I replaced my bulb it did have trouble starting up for the first week, but since then it's been fine.
But my guess would be either the color wheel or the ballast.

IMASA, have you fixed the problem with your set yet?

See my post a couple above yours...

I have a 62HM95 with the buzzing noise. It is currently at a repair center for warranty work under my Best Buy extended warranty for several problems, one of them the buzzing you refer to.

Here is an excerpt from Best Buy stating what the repair center need to fix that problem:

"... The service center said their technician determined that your TV needed a new optical engine, a seine unit, and a lamp. ..."

The optical engine I assume is for the buzzing. (I believe the seine unit is for my audio out problem, and my lamp was going dim).

The service center had no problem getting a light engine. (They were unable to get a seine unit, so Best Buy is replacing my TV.)

Good luck and keep us informed.

walmat

07-07-09, 05:08 PM

MacBurglar

07-07-09, 08:27 PM

Thanks Walmat. But how do I reset it? I reset picture settings, shut it off, unplugged and waited. I did this a few times but nothing.

Is there another reset I'm missing?

RappWizard

07-07-09, 08:45 PM

Can somebody recommend a reputable and reasonably priced dealer for replacement lamp/bulbs?
Thanks!!

walmat

07-08-09, 06:04 PM

Thanks Walmat. But how do I reset it? I reset picture settings, shut it off, unplugged and waited. I did this a few times but nothing.

Is there another reset I'm missing?

No, if you unplugged it for awhile and plugged it back in this will reset the HDMI. At least that's been my experience. You may need a replacement HDMI
module unless somebody has another idea. Do you have warranty left?:confused:

cater

07-09-09, 10:56 AM

I just got a new generic lamp for my 46hm94 and when i put it in the tv turns on and lights up just fine but then the screen goes blank after about a minute.. the sound stays on and then the whole thing shuts down and both the the green and red lights start blinking at 1 sec intervals.. according to the manual that means the lamp is not working properly... has any one else had this problem with a lamp... is it because its generic? I'm worried its something bigger... what happens when the light engine fails?

XX (whatever),
I have an 52HMX84 Toshiba, purchased Nov. 2004.
My set started the blinking light business earlier this year, so I ordered a replacement lamp in advance.
My lamp did not fail, but I installed the "new" lamp anyhow. After installing the "new" lamp, I experienced the series of flashing lights to lamp fail mode.
To make this brief, I received four (4) lamps from Toshiba and none of them worked. My old lamp continues to work.
Spoke to Toshiba many times to no avail. They know something, but will not share that info with me. They want me to spend $$ for a repair person, when my set works - but not their "new" lamp.
If you know more, please let me know.

cater

07-09-09, 10:59 AM

Sounds like the ballast is going bad. The part is under $100.00 and it's a relatively easy do-it-yourself job if you're a little handy with basic tools. There are several good posts on this forum on the subject, including one with pictures. Good luck.

dtomlinson,
How do I find out how to replace the ballast?

dtomlinson

07-09-09, 11:55 AM

It's actually pretty easy if you take your time. Be prepared to do some cleaning while you're at it. Mine was very dirty. A can of compressed air will be useful. Cleaning made a significant improvement in the picture.

This thread has excellent instructions on changing the ballast, including pictures. Good Luck.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492&highlight=toshiba+ballast+replacement

jcoffi

07-09-09, 01:01 PM

hello, first post. I have a 62HM95 which I just replaced the LE on. I have read you have to adjust the codes after doing so but once I replaced the engine the picture came on without the adjustments. Do I still need to make the adjustment? I have looked on the new engine and cannot find the bar codes described in the service manual nor can I figure out how to convert the codes once I find them. Is there a illistration for dummies for this somewhere I can reference?

MacBurglar

07-09-09, 09:45 PM

NR4P

07-10-09, 09:12 PM

NR4P

07-10-09, 09:15 PM

Walmat:

No, if you unplugged it for awhile and plugged it back in this will reset the HDMI. At least that's been my experience. You may need a replacement HDMI
module unless somebody has another idea. Do you have warranty left?

----

No, unfortunately no warranty. It may be the module. Is that a do-it-yourself job? Or a better-not-touch job? Thanks for your help Walmat.

On my 56HM195, while the TV is on, if you press and HOLD the power button on the TV for 5 or 6 secs, it forces a hard reset of everything. Note it will shut down the bulb and turn the fan off instantly. I recommend this only when you first turn on the TV before the bulb gets very hot.

Then pressing the button again will force a restart. The bulb being hot causes it to restart a few times but it will work.

MacBurglar

07-14-09, 09:47 AM

NR4P:
On my 56HM195, while the TV is on, if you press and HOLD the power button on the TV for 5 or 6 secs, it forces a hard reset of everything. Note it will shut down the bulb and turn the fan off instantly. I recommend this only when you first turn on the TV before the bulb gets very hot.

Then pressing the button again will force a restart. The bulb being hot causes it to restart a few times but it will work.

----

Hi NR4P, I tried that and it did reboot like you said. Unfortunately, it didn't work for me. Thanks tho, appreciated.

MattC54321

07-16-09, 04:35 PM

I too am having the ballast board issue. The cheapest I can find a replacement ballast board for is around $153. I have checked all of the online parts stores I can find. Has anyone found it cheaper lately?

Thanks!

dtomlinson

07-16-09, 04:54 PM

It appears that the aftermarket and refurbished ballast boards have disappeared. Not a good sign for those of us trying to keep our DLP sets going. I paid about $60.00 seven months ago for a refurbished board, but today I searched and found what you did.....about $160.00. The only other thing I can think of is to see if someone who has given up on their DLP would sell you the ballast from their soon to be abandoned set. That, or check Craigslist.

Good luck!

Dan

cleoo

07-20-09, 01:54 AM

I searched this forum for an answer, but couldn't find it in the pages.

Symptoms: loud buzzing noise from fan and shifting colors, diagnosed as a color wheel failing...lamp also went out.

I bought my 62HM195 with a Mack Warranty covering the TV for 3 years and the lamp.

Well, it was a pain trying to get warranty to cover it, because I wasn't supplied the warranty paperwork and the CODE to register it on Mack's Website, so more so BuyDig.com's fault.

After a couple weeks, I finally got it registered.

Well, after going back and forth with both the warranty and the repair place...a refurbished color wheel and a new lamp were installed in the 62HM195.

The 62HM195 seems to be working fine, but I notice when viewing computer generated images, like the cable guide or playing the Wii...that there seems to be some pixelation when there is movement, but if the image is static the image is sharp and not fuzzy; introduce movement and pixelation around the moving text or image.

Anyone know what the problem is??? The repair tech wasn't able to see the television functioning because the bulb was blown when he installed the color wheel.

I read something about calibrating the color wheel, but don't have access to the 62HM195 service manual. I saw another service manual, but it's not for the 62HM195. (Are the procedures the same???)

I'm wondering if that's all I need to do.

Please help. Thanks.

Carole S

07-20-09, 05:06 PM

We have a 62HM195 that's about 4 years old. We are on our second bulb (guess we got lucky - our first one lasted 3 years) and now the TV has developed Pink and Green shadows on one half of the screen. There is actually a line down the middle, one side is great, the other is not.

We had a 3 year warranty that has expired and we were unable to extend it (we bought from Fry's). It is currently at the repair shop and they are telling us it needs a new optical block. They're having trouble finding the part and haven't been able to give me an exact price. I pushed the guy to make a guess and he said it would be "expensive", probably about $800.

Does this sound reasonable? We are trying to decide if it is worth fixing (assuming they can find a part). I'm figuring that by the time we pay for this repair and probably another bulb in the next year or so, we will have spent $1000 or more. The price of new LCD and Plasma tv's has come down quite a bit and we can probably get a new 50-55" LCD for around $2000.

If we decide not to fix it, what should we do with it? Is it worthwhile trying to sell it? Would someone buy it, maybe for parts?

cleoo

07-21-09, 12:38 PM

I had an estimate of $895 (parts and labor) for a new color wheel / light engine. PVS Electronics claimed that Toshiba doesn't have that part anymore and could only "refurbish" my current one. Luckily, I had a Mack Warranty--close to expiring and it got covered.

Traveler62

07-22-09, 01:26 PM

I haven't posted in a while, so I wanted to add my status with a 62HM195 that is 3+ years old.

The only issue I have had is the ballast on this set. I don't believe it is able to be replaced without changing the whole light engine. About 1 out of 3 startups, the ballast has to ping the lamp about 3 times. This will light the lamp, but looks fuzzy and not too bright. If I let it continue, eventually minutes later the lamp goes to bright and then everything looks good. I usually try to shutoff the TV quickly after disabling the quick restart. Let it sit for 20 seconds, then restart the TV and everything comes up fine. It has done this with two lamps, so it is not a lamp issue.

As far as the issue some have had with the picture geometry suddenly making a big change, check out this site where someone glued the prism back in. I think a few posts here sound like that is an issue.
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/22702/Toshiba-62HM195-with-possible-bad-light-engine./

Otherwise, the picture looks as good as new and don't yet regret buying the TV. The newer LCDs are smaller unless you want to pay big $$$.

dtomlinson

07-22-09, 02:22 PM

Actually, the ballast replacement is a relatively easy job. It took me less than an hour, which included a thorough cleaning, which was badly needed. The cleaning really improved the picture! There is an excellent post on this site with step-by-step instructions. Just search for "ballast replacement with pictures." The biggest problem is that the price of ballasts has gone way up recently as aftermarket and refurbished ballasts seemed to have become unavailable.

Good luck!

Dan

moopile

07-22-09, 02:31 PM

Just over a week ago, Best Buy, picked up my 62HM95 and carried it away forever as a product replacement on my extended warranty. I replaced it (with $1400 added to it) with a Samsung PN58B650. Loving the new TV. The only thing I miss about the DLP is 4". Moved the new TV further into the room shortening the viewing distance by about 1' and can hardly tell the difference (size wise). The new PQ is amazing and blows the DLP out of the water. Hopefully I won't have all of the trouble out of this plasma as I had out of my DLP (light engine, color wheel, 4 lamps, sound board).

Noubourne

07-22-09, 03:37 PM

TrevorB

07-25-09, 02:52 AM

Has anyone else had an issue where 1/2 the screen is lighter than the other? It's really noticable on dark scenes. It not a gradual lightening, it's exactly in the middle of the screen. The left side is nice and dark with good detail and the right side is kinda washed out a little. Could this be a problem with the light engine?

Did you ever resolve this half screen deal? My 72HM195 has had this also for a long time.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what the resolution was. I've noticed this on my 56HM195 recently. It's exactly as khwiggins2 states. It's not noticeable during bright season but during dark scenes it is quite obvious, especially during credit rolls, etc.

If it is the light engine it sounds like they are getting harder to come by. I'd rather not go with a refurbished one or have to send mine in but I'd like to keep costs down as much as possible. I'm trying to minimize the time I'm without my television so I'd prefer to do the repairs/swap myself. Anybody have a fix for this or is this problem plaguing you?

walmat

07-25-09, 01:34 PM

aydu

07-25-09, 01:44 PM

Can someone list any telltale signs of when the bulb is starting to go??
I have the 62HM84 with the original bulb and I've always set it to low power but recently I've sbeen setting it to hi bright because for some shows and movies it looks too dark but for others it looks fine so i'm not sure if the bulb needs replacing or its that these programs are just dark.

So if anyone could suggest things to look for other than the obvious to indicate that the bulb needs to be replaced I'd appreciate it.
Thanks:)i just replaced a lamp on a similar Toshiba model.

My set started to get darker about a month before the lamp blew. I started adjusting my settings on the set as things that had always looked fine started to look too dark to me.

One day, about 1/2 hour after powering the set on, the set got really dark, then lightened up considerably, then a loud "pop" and the picture went dark.

Once I got a new lamp, I was impressed with the fact that the set looked brand new again.

Sounds like you're early on in this path. Might consider getting a lamp now, as I suspect you'll be needing one soon.

Wryker

08-06-09, 09:54 AM

Hi all,

Wondering if I am about to need a bulb replacement.

I have the 62HM196 which I bought in January 2007. I have not checked the hours on the bulb - but I will try to do that tonight. Looks like I'm at about 31 months with it right now.

** Update - According to the service menu, I have 7743 hours on this bulb. I take it that means I'm up for a replacement :). Never let anybody tell you that calibration doesn't buy you anything.

When I turn it on the last couple days, I have noticed a slight flicker or change in brightness in the first couple seconds of turning on the TV - and I'm wondering if anyone has seen something like this before - and if it is indeed indicative of an imminent bulb failure or what.

My warranty expires this coming January - and it includes a bulb replacement (or rather - expires if I use it to replace the bulb).
I have the same set you do - did you use the following procedure to find out how many hours you've used on the lamp?
"With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen

2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen

3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -

4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.

5. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.

6. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous."

nezumi15

08-20-09, 03:31 PM

I have the Toshiba 62HM196. I bought it March 2007. I have had no issue with it at all until a month ago. First is started when switching between commercials for a split second I would get a high pitched digital sound. Then while watching a show the video would cut off for about 2 seconds randomly. Finally the video went completely off but I could hear sound. The light on the front said I needed to replace the lamp. I removed the lamp and the glass was busted inside the lamp so it looked like it definately was the lamp. I ordered a new lamp and installed it. The TV worked like new for about a week. Then it started all over again. Now I have no video or sound. I talked to a tech and he said it sounded like I needed to replace the digital board. But I am reading alot of different things. Any ideas?

roldan_nelson

08-20-09, 04:16 PM

Has anyone ever experienced this? (see attached pic) if so how or how much did it cost to fix? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Been about a week since this post, nobody has seen this? I'm all out of ideas, just wondering if its worth having it fixed.

everguide

08-21-09, 11:59 AM

My Toshiba 50HM67 DLP is just approaching it's two year birthday in a few weeks. We recently just moved into a new (older) house that doesn't have AC. So instead we have a few window AC units in the bedrooms and in the living room where the T.V is stored. The living room has french doors so we are able to keep it reasonably chilled, but with a few warm bodies in the room it's easy for it to get a bit warmer.

I didn't have any trouble at all with the T.V for the first week in the house. However, the past few days after the T.V is on for about an hour or so it will suddenly turn off and I'll get the blinking yellow lamp light and solid blue light (where it will try to restart itself seven times or whatnot and then I'll eventually get all red lights). If I don't turn on the T.V for about 15 minutes; I can turn it back on for a few; and if I leave it off for a while I can turn it back on for longer again.

Right now I'm testing the T.V this morning with no one in the room which has been cooled overnight and with a cold T.V to see how long it will stay on.

My guess is that this is just an overheating issue and that when the seasons start to change it shouldn't be so bad. I've put a fan behind the T.V to help keep air circulating and keep everything cool. The AC unit in the living room is a bit weak and I've thought about getting another one to keep the room icy cold and see how that works.

Does anyone else have any ideas or suggestions? Maybe my lamp is just going bad?

Thanks in advance.

everguide

08-21-09, 12:06 PM

As I was writing this post the TV turned off and I've got the flashing red lights now. This was with a cold startup in a reasonably cold room that had been chilled all night. It probably lasted 15 minutes. It seems to be getting shorter every time.... this makes me think it is a dead/dying lamp? What do you guys think?

everguide

08-21-09, 12:39 PM

Another quick update. Had the T.V off for about 30 minutes; turned it back on it came on fine. And lasted for about five minutes before turning off and going through the flashing yellow lamp light; trying to turn itself on a few times; and then red lights come off after it can't do that.

However the room is pretty cold. The fan is on with a lot of space behind the T.V circulating any hot air coming out away... and the back of the T.V isn't even that hot. No idea what's going wrong.

dtomlinson

08-21-09, 12:45 PM

everguide,
I'm no expert, but, I'm on my fourth bulb on my 62HMX94 and have never had the symptoms you describe. Since this is a new house for you, I'd try the set in another room or check the voltage at the outlet the set is plugged in to. You say it's an older house and it's not unheard of that you might have low voltage at some outlets. Just something to eliminate as a possible cause.

Good luck!
Dan

everguide

08-21-09, 01:59 PM

Called Toshiba; they said to try to take the lamp out and knock on it in case the mercury was sticky. Did that. TV worked for 20 minutes; then went off and did the same things.

i2k

08-21-09, 02:16 PM

Just sold my 3 yr old Toshiba. Will be saying bye to this thread. TV worked great! Cheers

everguide

08-21-09, 06:15 PM

Tried to switch power outlets. TV came on for a few minutes fine. Then did the same lamp cycle. Any advice?

FNPonderous

08-22-09, 01:02 AM

Tried to switch power outlets. TV came on for a few minutes fine. Then did the same lamp cycle. Any advice?

I had similar symptoms but it was opposite, had problems in the winter when it was colder and it worked better in the summer. It sounds like it may be a lamp ballast problem.

Check these threads for more info and sweet walk-through on how to replace it yourself. I did this about 1.5 weeks ago and have not had any problems. (fingers crossed)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=834727
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492

Also if you do go thru with the procedure i recommend wiping off the lens on the light engine. I've had my 52 since 05 and there was a thin film of black soot on the lens. When i put the TV back after the ballast change it looked brand new. I forgot how good the color is on these sets.

everguide

08-22-09, 03:22 AM

I thought the ballast had to do with the TV actually starting up. I can get mine to usually start up; but it goes off after being on for a while (recently it's been able to stay on for less and less). Then once I let it sit for a while, I can start it up fine again... that's why I didn't think it was the ballast. Thoughts?

dtomlinson

08-22-09, 11:51 AM

everguide,
I'd agree that it's not likely the ballast. I'm not a technician, but my understanding is that the ballast only provides a "jump start" to get the bulb going. It is an easy repair, but the parts have gotten expensive, so I'd do more research before changing the ballast out.

Dan

everguide

08-22-09, 03:50 PM

Any idea on what I should look at next? I'm sort of at a blank because the T.V works fine it will just shut off after a few minutes (use to last longer). The light looks fine. I tried to knock it to see if it was mercury based. I tried switching outlets. I tried putting a fan behind the T.V and trying to chill the room all night and making sure the T.V was as cold as possible before starting.

Each time I get the same response. T.V works fine, looks great. Then in the middle of watching after maybe 15 minutes it turns off. Yellow lamp light comes on. TV tries to turn itself on... but it can't. Goes through the cycle 7 times as intended and then all the red lights come on. If I restart the T.V and let it sit for a while it will come back on for a few minutes... then repeat.

It works perfectly... then stops. Then works perfectly... then stops. Not sure how to figure out what the problem is... any ideas?

dtomlinson

08-22-09, 06:12 PM

everguide,
Your light codes are different than my (older) set. What does the manual say about the light codes you're seeing? Also, when I'm trying to diagnose something, I try to think about what has changed since the set worked OK. Any chance the set got bumped during the move? Maybe a connector inside the set came loose and is making an intermittent connection. It's OK when the set is cool, but once is warms up the connection opens up. The chassis is pretty accessible once the back of the set is off. There is a good post on this forum about replacing the ballast and it has good pictures of the inside of the set. You can find it with a search for "ballast replacement with pictures." It also gives you an opportunity to clean the lens, etc. which tend to get pretty dirty. Of course if you don't find a bad connection, picture quality isn't important. Just remember, some components may be energized even after the set is unplugged so be careful where you reach (remove your watch and rings, etc.)
Another thing I'd try is to see if the problem is the same on all inputs. At least that would give you more information if you have to call a service guy.

Dan

Kelsen

08-23-09, 12:03 AM

Everguide,

another thing you can try; when the restart cycle has completed 7 times and the red light begins flashing, hold down the 'Menu' button on the TV (not the remote). It will give you a short audible message about the problem.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"No matter how cynical I get, I can't keep up." -- Lily Tomlin

everguide

08-23-09, 06:33 PM

I noticed that I couldn't really hear the fan (although it has never been loud and I don't ever remember hearing it before)[ so today I checked to make sure the fan was working... it was. For whatever reason after not using it for a day the T.V worked fine for a few hours. Then back to the old symptoms. Not really sure what to do next, I guess get a technician?

Noubourne

08-24-09, 05:54 PM

I have the same set you do - did you use the following procedure to find out how many hours you've used on the lamp?
"With TV turned on:

1. Press "mute" on the remote - 1/2 mute appears on the screen

2. Press "mute" on the remote again - mute appears on the screen

3. Press "mute" on the remote and hold the mute button -

4. Press the "Menu" button on the TV's front panel. "S" will appear in the upper right corner of the screen.

5. Press "9" on the remote and you will access the diagnostics page. In the right hand corner is the lamp time in hours.

6. Press "power" button on remote to exit the menu and power off the TV.

CAUTION: Do not use the up and down volume keys on the remote in this menu as it can alter the data and can be dangerous."

Yes but I don't remember it being in the bottom right corner. I remember it being in the list along the left side - middle to top. Only looked at it a few seconds...

pazcuato

08-24-09, 09:57 PM

Anybody may have the schematic drawing for Toshiba 52HMX84?
Thanks

oregoncalfroper

08-27-09, 12:15 AM

OK guys my bulb warranty is up in about a month and I have never gone through a bulb with my hm195 I just check hour meter and bulb has 9115 hours on it!! lol What is the chance of this going out before my Mack warranty is up on bulb I still have 1 more year on tv.

dtomlinson

08-27-09, 02:03 AM

With 9115 hours on your first bulb you're doing very well. My experience is that you'll notice a subtle darkening of the picture prior to the bulb failing. It will be harder to discern details in dark scenes. My fourth bulb went out Monday. My set (62HMX94) has a little more than 11,000 hours total on it in 4-1/2 years. The last replacement was in November of last year so I'm hoping Toshiba will replace the bulb under the 1-year warranty they agreed to under the Class Action Law Suit.
Good luck with your set.

Dan

Hans Gruber

08-27-09, 07:46 PM

My cousin's 72HM195 bulb just burned out after at least 3 years. Where is the best place to get a replacement bulb? All I can find is ebay bulbs for $167. Is there an online shop that has them for less?

dtomlinson

08-28-09, 01:15 PM

I just got off the phone with Toshiba Customer Service regarding my fourth failed bulb. According to them, the warranty extension from 180-days to 1-year only applies to bulbs purchased after April 2009. So, once again, I'm screwed by Toshiba. So far I've experienced one TV replaced due to TV Guide Problems, a replacement set with numerous problems (including the same TV Guide problem the prior set had) resulting in nearly 4-months in the shop waiting for parts, 4- bulb replacements, and one ballast replacement. The set has a great picture, when it works, but at what price!

Dan

boxer7890

09-07-09, 05:57 PM

Hello everyone - long time reader, first time question here.

I have a late 2005 56HM195 (on my 2nd bulb) that has functioned great since a few weeks ago. Thanks to this forum, I'm pretty sure that I have a color wheel issue. A few weeks ago I began to see some green shadowing on the screen. Interesting thing about my issue is that after the TV has been on for around and hour, sometimes it goes away and the picture returns to normal.

What I have done so far:
Yesterday I opened up the guts of the TV and performed the dusting as instructed by "BAMA man" on post #7829 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16057078#post16057078) I blew some compressed air on the color wheel and afterwords noticed that there still was some dust on the wheel so I used a microfiber cloth to gently rub the dust off the wheel. I re-assembled everything and checked the picture and discovered that it seemed to make a difference but not really for the better. I now made everything sort of solorized - if you know what I mean. However, again, after about an hour of watching TV like that it again progressively made it's way to having a normal picture :confused:

That is good news about it progressively returning to normal - but I'm obviously not satisfied with the situation. My question to you all is if you think I damaged the color wheel by cleaning it with that cloth? How I cleaned it was I held the cloth on the wheel and slowly rotated it with my other hand using the top edge.

Should I of cleaned it like a CD where you rub from the inside out perhaps? Or should I of not even touched it period?
Real question: What should I do now? Clean it again? Look for a new or refurbished wheel? Evaluate a different component?

Thank you for your help. I really don't want to have to buy a new TV.

kabuelich

09-09-09, 11:10 AM

Not sure if I have the same problem? Screen looks brighter than normal, colors washed out. the bottom third of the screen gradually fades into green with small green squares at the bottom. I have had the set 2 yrs and replaced the bulb about 1 yr ago. I called a couple shops, one said the engine needed replaced, would have to be sent to toshiba for rebuild. Another said some board might be bad. Any ideas which it could be?

kabuelich

09-10-09, 04:16 PM

Getting info from these tv shops is like pulling teeth. Another shop is telling me I have a convergence problem. I asked if that was the signal board or light engine and he said no. Anyone know what board it would be? I know signal boards and light engines are $500-600 but are not available.

Kelsen

09-10-09, 05:04 PM

I have a 62HM196 purchased in January 2007.

Bulb went a 6 weeks ago, and I ordered another. It worked fine for 2 days, then system quit working. I get the 7 (or 8) retries, then the steady red and flashing yellow light.

Sometimes it does come on, and when it does, it works fine. So I'm trying to leave it on (I need more cooperation from my family...)

The problem appears to be the ballast, but they are not available.

I shall have to get another TV. Damn shame. My previous (tube-type) Toshiba has worked steadily now for 13 years.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"I believe I have no prejudices whatsoever. All I need to know is that a man is a member of the human race. That's bad enough for me." -- Mark Twain

dtomlinson

09-10-09, 06:11 PM

Kelson,
It does sound like a ballast. I had similar symptoms and the ballast fixed it. I checked where I bought my ballast and they seem to have the one for your set. I hope I'm allowed to post a url, if not go to tiger direct parts search and search for your model #.

http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/75002847/New.aspx?ModelMfgName=Toshiba&ModelBrandName=Toshiba&ModelNumber=62HM196

Good luck
Dan

Kelsen

09-10-09, 10:38 PM

Dan,

I'll give that a try, but I'm pretty sure the PartsList folks are in fact out of 'em. I tried that earlier, but I'll double-check. Thanks for the tip.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"You cannot legislate the poor into freedom by legislating the industrious out of it. You don't multiply wealth by dividing it. Government cannot give anything to anybody that it doesn't first take from somebody else. Whenever somebody receives something without working for it, somebody else has to work for it without receiving. The worst thing that can happen to a nation is for half of the people to get the idea they don't have to work because somebody else will work for them, and the other half to get the idea that it does no good to work because they don't get to enjoy the fruit of their labor." -- Adrian Rogers

MJAD

09-11-09, 10:20 AM

I just installed a ballast on the 52HM84. Let me know if you need any advice or have any questions. Couple of thoughts:

This is much easier if you can get someone to help you
The back panel comes off pretty easy, just need to get to all the screws
Pull the lamp out first. The ballast is "behind" the lamp when looking from the back of the tv.
The tray with the light engine comes out, you need to unscrew it from the tv frame. Look out for the black plastic in front of the lens. There is one small screw.
All the cables are unique, so don't worry if you forget to write them down
Be careful with the thin cable that is closest to you when you open up the tv. It is connected to a silver rectangular thing (don't know what it does). There is a small lock (lever) on one of the sides.
Also be careful with the door lock sensor cable. It connects to the board on the left side of the tv. Its easy to pull off and if you do and don't catch it, you'll get the blinking green light that indicated the door isn't closed (cost me 45 minutes to figure that out.)
The ballast installs pretty easy. Getting it screwed back in is tough, just awkward positions.

Hope this helps. PM me if you have other questions.

Thanks Julio for alerting me.

-Matt
I disconnected that wire (blue and white)....where exactly does it connect?? (You mention board on left side of TV) I can't find a matching open connector anywhere!!

Thanks!

dtomlinson

09-11-09, 11:17 AM

I disconnected that wire (blue and white)....where exactly does it connect?? (You mention board on left side of TV) I can't find a matching open connector anywhere!!

Thanks!

I had the same problem. It's been almost a year since I changed my ballast, but, as I recall, the connector is sort of in the middle of the main board. I think it's the only one that matches the plug. If you slide the main chassis out you should be able to find it. I forget how it was labeled. Since the cable was a little tight (that's why it get's pulled out when you remove the light engine) if you check the area that the cable can reach when tight, it should put you in the neighborhood of the connector.

kabuelich

09-11-09, 01:22 PM

Anybody know of anyone that would be interested in the internals from my 62hm195 for spares, or core use? Im pretty sure the light engine is good

surveyor5

09-12-09, 08:46 AM

I would be interested, lets talk

Sakkidatta 13

09-12-09, 07:47 PM

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the ballast replacement thread!
( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492&highlight=toshiba+ballast+replacement )

A couple weeks ago I was watching TV (62HMX84) when all of a sudden I heard a "POP" and my screen went black. I've experienced this once before since 2005 when I got my TV and thought, "no biggie, I'll just replace the lamp." I replaced the lamp with a $130 replacement unit I got on eBay. When I turned the TV on I heard a weird fuzzy buzzing sound (from the front left of the unit) and got the lamp warning light sequence. Crap! I figured I got scammed on eBay with a 3rd party bulb (It wasn't quite exactly like the OEM part) so I ordered a $230 bulb (after shipping) from Toshiba. A couple days later I installed it. Fuzzy buzzing. Crap!!!! I decided to give it one more shot before throwing this thing to the curb and ordered the BALLAST unit from Conns ( http://conns.partsearch.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468/New.aspx )
I followed the guide exactly (actually pretty easy) and now I have a working TV again!!! THANK YOU!

-Luke

dtomlinson

09-12-09, 08:19 PM

MJAD,
In case you haven't found where to plug the wire in yet, I found an earlier post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15322006#post15322006) I made about the blue & white wire problem and a bit of extra information. The plug on the chassis is labeled "P902a" or at least it was on my set.
I hope this helps!

Dan

jscott70

09-16-09, 04:58 PM

I am really hoping for some good insight into my issue. I own a 62hmx94 I purchased back in May 2005 and have gone thru 4 bulbs, of course. I have this issue that developed where the TV screen randomly goes blank screen right in the middle of viewing. I can be on any type of input (component, ant, or hdmi). Sometimes it runs all day for a few days without doing it and sometimes it does it 3 times a day so it's not heat related. The firmware has been updated. When it does this I power it off and then stick a paperclip in the reset hole on the right side behind the hidden panel of side inputs. It will then click and reset cycle and I turn it back on and it's OK. Recently it has started exhibiting what I believe to be ballast problems. It randomly won't come up when powering it on but instead will show solid red and 8 blinks of the green light, clicks like its resetting and sometimes cycles itself 5 times before the picture finally comes on. This also happens when trying to reset after a screen blanking incident as well. VERY annoying. The TV has been setup the same way at two different homes, the most recent we just built so it's a new electrical system. Always has been plugged into an APC SmartUPS 1000 backup. Any thoughts? I am pretty sure the latest issue is ballast from reading this forum at length. Thanks for providing such a great resource. No more Toshibas after this PITA set!

John

dtomlinson

09-16-09, 10:03 PM

I have the same set. The second problem definitely sounds like a ballast. I replaced my ballast when I had intermittent start up problems after I replaced the third bulb (I'm, also on my 4th. bulb now). I haven't experienced the first problem, and, from my limited knowledge a ballast wouldn't cause it. If I understand it correctly, the ballast only provides a "kick start" for the bulb and doesn't function once the bulb has lit. When I replaced my ballast there were aftermarket ballasts out there for around $60.00, but now ballasts seem to be running about $160.00, if you can find one. That's pretty pricey if it won't solve all your problems. Then again, we paid huge money for these sets by today's standards. Each time a bulb goes, I'm tempted to dump the set, but they look so good when they're working properly! If you decide to replace the ballast yourself (it's pretty easy) this link will be very helpful: [http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492&highlight=toshiba+ballast+replacement. The only thing I'd add is to watch out for the blue and white wire that runs across the back of the chassis. It is for the bulb door switch and plugs into the left (electronics) chassis. It's pretty easy to accidentally unplug it, which will add significantly to your work as you'll have to slide the left chassis out to find the socket and plug it back in.

jscott70

09-17-09, 08:33 AM

The only thing I'd add is to watch out for the blue and white wire that runs across the back of the chassis. It is for the bulb door switch and plugs into the left (electronics) chassis. It's pretty easy to accidentally unplug it, which will add significantly to your work as you'll have to slide the left chassis out to find the socket and plug it back in.

Hey DT,
Thanks for the reply. I feel your pain too, the TV has been awesome except for those minor and annoying issues. I've been able to live with the first one but the latest issue is definitely ballast because I can hear the buzzing from the left of the TV every so often when it starts up. I am working on getting my service contract company to fix it but they're trying to pawn it off on Toshiba saying it was pre-existing based on the service records. Toshiba, of course, won't do anything and now they don't even have a record of me. Isn't that convenient? What a fiasco this is. Never another Toshiba product.

I LOVE the 50" Samsung Plasma I have in the bedroom and my next TV will be another Samsung. They are excellent and have been owning the top spots in consumer reports recently.

I will try to locate a ballast but even $160 isn't all that bad compared to having to buy a new TV. Honestly though the Samsung plasma isn't ridiculously better in PQ than the Toshiba. Of course there is a sizable difference but not startling. That's how good those sets are in terms of PQ considering it's a 4 year old DLP TV and the Samsung is only a year old plasma.

Any help on figuring out the first problem would be greatly appreciated. I am not holding my breath on the local service center and the service contract company getting past their issues in order to provide me the service I need. It's a long story I won't get into here. Needless to say I am preparing to resolve the problem on my own. Thanks again for all the help!
This is a great forum!

John

dsr15

09-23-09, 11:24 PM

Hi folks! Gotta love this forum, still here after all these years!

I've got a 62HM94 which I've had since whatever year it first came out. It has the TVGOS (TV Guide On Screen) thing, and I have the Symbio hard drive recorder. The TVGOS has worked sporadically, and now doesn't work at all. I don't really care about that, as I do all of my HD recording on the Symbio (my TV is via antenna) using a manual date/time setting.

But, I just went to set it to record some shows (which I haven't done since the fall schedule), and I notice my TV clock is very wrong - it thinks today is 9/3/09 (it's 9/23/09) and it thinks it's 6:20pm (it's 9:18pm). Going through Setup, I realize there's no way to set the clock manually - it says "the time and date have been acquired and set from TV Guide On Screen".

Is there anyway around this? I just updated my firmware to latest 1.6.5 but that didn't seem to help.

Thanks!

~~dsr

surveyor5

09-24-09, 10:09 AM

same issue with my 62hm195, talked to toshiba yesterday and they said this tv does not and will not seek or find a digital tvgos signal, only analog. tvgos is digital now since the big change, they also said they made these tv's to all specs at that time, well I first herd of the changeover in 2000 and it was going to happen in 2005, this tv is a 2005 and should of had the hardware in it, toshiba is so full of it it makes me sick. on the other hand there is a fix at your expense, a converter box that is tvgos capable hooked up to ant 1 or ant 2 will get it going, if you have cable it still needs to be analog tvgos.

dsr15

09-24-09, 03:03 PM

Yeah, that's bull. I'll call them too. Maybe they can make a firmware update so that at least the clock can be set... Being as that probably won't happen, let me know if this should work then:

Currently I have antenna coming into ANT1.

If I split my cable coming in (wonder what that will do to my signal strength?) and buy a converter box (damn, I had a govt coupon, but never used it!), and run a new input through the converter box and into ANT2, then I should get TVGOS and my TV's clock will update?

I might just be crazy enough to do that... :)

surveyor5

09-24-09, 03:45 PM

there is only two boxes that work, says toshiba, dtvpal trv-40cr and artec t3apr-t, split it like you say, program the guide to the correct ant input and set that input to channel 3 or 4, what ever the box is on. forget its there and wait and see. I am done putting money in these things so cant say for sure if it works, and dont trust toshiba on any thing they say. good luck

pier0188

09-29-09, 09:00 PM

My 52HM84 has been acting up lately. It "flashes" between light/dark every couple seconds and then it looks like the light wavers a bit (is not steady). I think it could be dust on the color wheel.

Is it possible to use an aircan to blow out the area?

I just replaced the lamp 2 weeks ago (3 years on the first lamp, 2 years on the second). I cleaned the inside of the lamp area, including the glass covering the color wheel area.

rapstar1983

10-02-09, 10:43 AM

I posted in the general rear-projection area but never got an answer so I figured I would post here.

I have a Toshiba 62HM95 and I had to replace the bulb for the first time about a month ago (the TV is about 5 years old). After replacing the bulb I was still noticing the screen flickering (getting darker and lighter) but after being on for a while it would stop. This past Monday I got home and when I turned on the TV, there was no picture and it seemed that the light was no powering on. The error codes blinking on the TV indicated a lamp problem. I removed the new bulb and examined it and it looked fine so I put it back in and then plugged the TV back in but still got no picture.

I started researching online and thought that perhaps I had to replace the ballast board for the lamp. Ordered one online and just go it last night. After taking the back of the TV base off and removing the light engine sled, I was able to replace the lamp ballast and put everything back together. I plugged the TV in and then powered it on but still the bulb is not powering up. Is it possible that the bad ballast board ruined the new lamp and I just need to get another new lamp? Could it not be the ballast board or lamp at all and possibly be another problem?

Nophix

10-05-09, 07:18 PM

RodinBigD

10-07-09, 08:49 PM

dtomlinson

10-07-09, 09:03 PM

I have a 46hm84 toshiba. Had a bulb explosion last week,ordered new bulb. watched tv for about 3 hours then turned off. next day tv would not come on. Orered another new bulb,but it will still not turn on. tries to turn on 8 times then both green and red lights blinks. acts light bulb is not working.....

any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
It sounds like your ballast board has failed. This is a common problem with the Toshiba DLP sets. If you look back a page or two, you'll find a discussion on the subject including links to parts suppliers (last I checked the part is about $150.00) and a link to an excellent post with detailed instructions and pictures of the ballast replacement. It's a pretty easy plug and replace job. Be sure to have a can of compressed air ready because most people find the sets pretty dusty inside. Cleaning mine during ballast replacement really improved the picture.

Good luck,
Dan

senah

10-08-09, 07:58 PM

I had a 52HM series for only 3 years, the picture was great, but the electronics are junk. The nosie from the light engine is terrible, and it finally crapped out. 800 bucks for replacement or 400 or so for a diy. I junked this POS TV. Nothing but a money pit. bahhhhhhh

Bought a plasma and never looking back at a DLP.

mtom5

10-09-09, 12:10 PM

dtomlinson

10-09-09, 12:59 PM

Just to let you know I replaced my ballast board in Sept 08 and am still on the same bulb since then. Before that I had used 4 bulbs(lamps) in the previous 3 yrs - so I beleive the ballast board issue will fix most problems with premature bulb replacement (my model = 52HM84
Not to rain on your parade, but I replaced my ballast and bulb in November of '08 and had the bulb die in August of this year, the shortest lived bulb of all. The good news is that Toshiba raised the warranty on replacement bulbs to 1-year from 90-days. The bad news is it only applies to bulbs purchased after April '09 (I think).

Dan

bigsnibb

10-09-09, 05:49 PM

I've checked through most of the forums but have yet to find where I can buy a ballast for my 72hm195 any help would be great thanks!

dtomlinson

10-09-09, 07:48 PM

I've checked through most of the forums but have yet to find where I can buy a ballast for my 72hm195 any help would be great thanks!
I got mine at TigerDirect Parts Search. I've also heard people have found them at a place called Conns. I know they've been hard to get lately. Good Luck!

dtomlinson

10-09-09, 07:51 PM

Now for some good news. I got my check from Toshiba under the class action bulb settlement. $204 and change. That covers the first bulb that blew. If I only could get the next three replacements reimbursed!

Dan

bigsnibb

10-09-09, 11:46 PM

Thanks for the reply i've tried and nada.

this is so frustrating I have two new bulbs and 260 dollars down the drain to Tri State module who said they would fix the light engine and ballast only to ship back the light engine and deny they ever said they would fix the ballast!

From what I know the ballast is on the same part as the light engine so if you fixed the light engine but not the ballast how would you know if the light engine was fixed?

dtomlinson

10-10-09, 09:21 PM

I guess your best bet now would be to find an electronics tech who can figure out what failed on the ballast board and fix it. When I bought mine, it was a refurbished part, so they can be rebuilt.

Dan

RodinBigD

10-11-09, 11:00 AM

I've checked through most of the forums but have yet to find where I can buy a ballast for my 72hm195 any help would be great thanks!

I ordered mine through encompassparts.com.

walmat

10-15-09, 05:00 PM

I just replaced the bulb on my 62HM84 for the first time. The original bulb lasted just under 4000 hours on low power. I was surprised at how easy it was to replace.
I used the Avia 2 disc to recalibrate the set. All settings were done ok except for contrast. How do you set the contrast on these tv's using the grayscale log bar or whatever its called. The white boxes at the top never blend together.
Does any one have calibrations for this set that they'd like to share:
Mine are:
contrast: 75 ????
brightness: 54
color: 46
tint G1
sharpness: 25
Sorry if this was already asked.

lindensg

10-20-09, 03:32 PM

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I have 52HMX95, and I replaced the bulb a couple of months ago. That part seems to be fine. When watching it the other day I heard and audible "click," and then everything went dead.
Any ideas? Power supply? If so, is this something I can fix, and where would be my best bet for parts.
If not, what else could it be?
Thanks.

DeLaw

10-21-09, 05:43 PM

[QUOTE=bigsnibb;17327982]I've checked through most of the forums but have yet to find where I can buy a ballast for my 72hm195 any help would be great thanks! Check this site, discount-merchant Part# D4456M-01

DeLaw

10-21-09, 05:48 PM

I had a 72hm195 for almost 4yrs. To many small problems and this time it was to much money to put on a old Dog. It did have a good picture.

Frankp10111

11-13-09, 08:54 AM

Hi all I have a Toshiba 52hm84 that I am having problems with.

The problems are it randomly turns itself on and off, the TV menu might pop up, and the TV volume might go up and down. Now I can experience all or some of these problems at any given time. It may not happen for days or they may all happen every day for days. It is very strange because I don't know if it is a dust problem or a computer board problem. Does anyone have any suggestions ?

kevlarcupid

11-15-09, 08:43 PM

Hey, guys. Another issue, here.

I have a 50HM66, that I've had for ~2.5 years. In that time I've replaced the bulb once. Not too shabby.

However, after having some electrical work done on the power lines that feed my house, I'm seeing an odd issue. I get the Yellow LED blinking 3 times, repeatedly, forever. I don't have any other LEDs lit, blinking or otherwise. Toshiba customer service says Yellow LED blinking 3 times on repeat indicated that the TV is in a post-power outage restart mode.

I went through some basic troubleshooting with Toshiba customer support, and after we couldn't get it to come on, he recommended I take it to a service center. He said "it must be stuck in this mode. Something else is probably wrong." Great. Real informative.

Just wondering if anyone else has seen this issue. I see there's a lot of issues where the LEDs indicate a bulb failure, but it turns out that replacing the bulb does not fix the issue. I guess this could be a similar problem? Any info?

s280

11-16-09, 11:02 PM

Wow! I guess I am one of the lucky ones. My bulb just blew on Sunday night during the football game. I got this tv when they first came out, in 2005. This is the first bulb to go on this set, and it was loud. I have orderd a new bulb and I am planning on pulling the back and doing some cleaning (after reading all the ways to do it on here), but I can not seem to find a replacement ballast for this model tv. Can you use the ballast for a 46HM84 in the 46HM95 tv?
Thanks,
Steve

s280

11-20-09, 08:55 AM

Well, I got the new bulb in last night. Cleaned out the inside a little and checked the time on the original bulb.
9233 hours. Very Happy with that. The TV also looks great, bright and, did I say great!

vtompke

11-21-09, 10:20 PM

HI folks - this is my first post on this thing - forigve me if one of you has answered this but I couldn't find an answer - I really did look!

I have a Toshiba 46HMX85 and had been using it with a Bell PVR using the HDMI link - no problem. Then when I bought a PS3 I couldn't get it to work using the HDMI link - so I had to use component - I was ticked but now I am really ticked.

I went out and bought a new Sony 7.1 STRDH800 receiver - you know the kind with HDMI switching - so I can plug all my stuff into the Receiver and then use a single HDMI cable into the T.V. I plugged my Bell PVR into the receiver and then ran a second HDMI into the televison - NO LUCK (just like when I tried to plug the PS 3 directly into the television

I know my HDMI port work on the t.v. - I can plug it directly into the Bell PVR using the exact same HDMI cords

But now I can't use the HDMI from either the PS3 or my new receiver!!

So here's what I am trying
- a television reset - but I used my menu and I can't see any reset option
- a firmware update - how does that work?
- a new television - okay forget that - I already pushed my luck getting a new receiver - guess how its going to go when I say this means I need a new t.v.!

Help!

mikeyari

11-22-09, 11:59 AM

Hey guys I purchased 62HM195 which just started giving problems other than bulb blowing.

I`m getting a solid blue light, in which a constant blinking yellow light....015 second intervals to be exact), before the tv automatically reboots. It restarts like 10 times then both the blue and yellow lights blink together.

Now that manual says that it`s a bulb problem if the yellow led blinks in 5 second intervals and then shuts down. I`m thinking I may have a more serious problem. The Bulb looks just fine, by the way.

I can the television stating up, but no sound and no picture.

Does this sound like the light engine or ballast?:D

I did purchase the Mack three year extended warranty which starts after the manufactors` warranty ends. So I`m covered right?....not quite, Can you believe that I can`t find the $400.00 Mack Contract I purchased three years ago!!:mad:

I remember registering at Mack`s website and everything! Now I can`t even log in without the Contract # to get this tv fixed.:confused:

I also bought my TV at Buydig just as "Cleoo" did. Celoo said he never received his Mack warranty so he couldn`t register, yet Mack and Buydig both gave him a hard time for weeks!!!:eek:

I Hope they can use my invoice information to pull it up. I can stil see my purchase information on Buydig and I have a copies at home. Buydig says they no longer sell my warranty, so I can`t get another copy.

Am I screwed out of $400.00?

Does it sound like the 15 second intervals indicate something more serious as a problem?

Thanks for any information.

dtomlinson

11-22-09, 12:44 PM

I'm a little confused about your symptoms. Just because the lamp looks OK doesn't mean it was. Of the three bulb failures I've had, only two were obvious by appearance. As far as I know, a bulb won't cause intermittent start-up. It either lights or doesn't. The intermittent lamp start-up sounds like a ballast problem, at least that's what happened when my ballast died. But, if I remember correctly, I got sound but no picture. As for the trouble light indications, your set has different codes than mine (62HMX94) so I'm not sure what to say about that. If it is a ballast, hopefully your servicer can find a replacement. I understand they're very hard to find. He may end up repairing the board instead of replacing it. Good luck with this.

Dan

mikeyari

11-22-09, 10:34 PM

Thanks for the reply. Actually, The manual says it is a bulb problem is the blue light is solid and the yellow light blinks in 5 second intervals, the tv will automatically restart 8 times after each 5 second interval, indicating a problem with the bulb.

So according to my manual, restarts are bulb issues. I would hate to buy a bulb when If I didn`t need to.

I guess I`ll have to start with getting a new bulb and take it from there.

dtomlinson

11-22-09, 10:48 PM

But the ballast is what starts the bulb. If the ballast is bad or intermittent the bulb can't start. When my ballast went bad, the trouble lights indicated a bulb problem, as well.

Dan

mikeyari

11-22-09, 10:51 PM

If it`s the Babblast if problably nothing more than a fuse that need to be replaced.

From what I`m hearing is that the entire light engine is being replaced when techs can`t find new Ballaster, which makes sense.

Is there a digital reading I should look at the bulb plug on a multi-meter that would tell me if the Ballast is bad? I guess if I get no reading it`s bad.lol

Also when my tv restarts there is never any light or picture, it pitch black all the time, I just hear the sound of the fans and some churring sound that sounds like a colorwheel or something, but I have always heard these sounds from day one.

I have a big family coming over for Thanksgiving and I`m hoping I can have this fixed by then.

mikeyari

11-22-09, 10:58 PM

I found a Ballast from the 72" version of my TV that I "Think" will work.

The bulb is the same so I`m thinking the Ballast would be the same also.

So when you bought the new bulb your tv still had the same problem until you changed the Ballast? I would think that you tried your bulb that had no indication of being blown in appearance, in the tv after the new Ballast was installed and it didn`t work?

vtompke

11-23-09, 12:10 AM