Anybody have any ideas on what would make 2 bulbs blow out? The first one was an original Toshiba bulb that lasted about one month and the other was a OEM (I was supposed to get another Toshiba bulb) that lasted 4 days.

Both bulbs blew out while the TV was on. The set belongs to my cousin. He is dumber than a rock. I came here and heard a bit about a ballast problem. The original bulb lasted about 2.5 years or around 8000 hours. It was not one of the sets with the defective bulbs.

My cousin now tells me the set would sometimes take 1-2 minutes 20% of the time to turn on.

What's making these bulbs blow?

I'm on my 3rd bulb in my Toshiba 65HM167 set. 1st one lasted nearly 2 years with no problems. 2nd one (Toshiba brand) went 5 months. 3rd has been in the set 1 day.

I was under the assumption that Toshiba had fixed their bulb issues after losing a class action law suit on the versions of their DLP sets prior to mine. I was wrong.

Fortunately, I bought a bulb warranty which replaced the original. The 2nd one was also free as Toshiba warrants their bulbs for 6 months and mine only lasted 5. I have one replacement on my warranty left which goes for another 6 months.

If I ever end up buying a bulb, I'll buy from a vendor with a 6 month warranty and pay with my Visa. This will extend my warranty to a year as Visa doubles the warranty as a feature of the card.

By the time I need yet another bulb, I hopefully will have moved on to another set.

It won't be a Toshiba.

So someone though it would be a good idea to clean the display with water and a paper towel while I was away from home. Long story short water seeped into the lower left hand corner of the display. It looks like ink blotches and while it is drying up a bit, it seems to have left some smudges. Anyone know how much a thorough cleaning of the interior would cost?

I'm serious. Is Toshiba making bad bulbs? I know several years ago they had serious issues with their bulbs. I'm covered under AMEX but 2 bulbs in 6 weeks is pathetic.

I was reading posts that was inferring their were other problems in this TV that makes the bulbs burn out.

Toshiba was always the best RPTV. I still have a 55" RPTV that's been running flawlessly since 1998. :eek:

I had a similar problem with the lamps in the past until Toshiba sent out a tech to replace the ballast. Ever since then the display has been working as it should.

Hey Barnsatble,
I was hoping to hear a bit more details about this resistor repair. I am about to undertake the same repair for my 56HM195. I believe my ballast has gone bad as I'm getting the lamp error LED code on start up. (I can hear the tv channel audio, but the lamp does not power up and I even put in a new lamp but no fix.)

Is it just a matter of soldering out the old resistor and swapping in the new one?
My ballast I believe is the D4456M-01 model. I can't see a R3 resistor. I have a R33 and a R2 resistor from what I can see. Additionally I can't see any burn signs to indicate that the resistor is bad. Did yours have any physical indications that it had failed? I also tried the Ohmmeter test at Radio shack on the ballast board and they still seemed to be working from what we could tell.

Do you guys think that I should just order a new ballast anyway?

It was just a matter of de-soldering the original resistor and soldering in the new one. I found it open by checking with an ohm meter. There were no physical signs to lead me to that resistor (no burn marks or discoloration.)

Thanks Barnstable,

I was able to fix the 56HM195's ballast by replacing the R3 resistor. What's odd is that not only where there no physical signs that that resistor was the problem, but the ohmmeter even showed that it was working. I could not find a problem with any of the ballast's components so I decided just to replace the R3 resistor anyways. So I reinstalled it and the TV bulb fired up. Victory! Not bad for a 50 cent repair.

My resistor was a 4.7 ohm
Ballast part # D4456M-01

However my issues are not over. My color wheel is getting worse and worse. The display looks severely solorized. It's nearly unwatchable.

Question, is it possible to simply switch out the color wheel to fix this picture issue, without having to replace the whole light engine?

Secondly, does anyone know a repair person who is available over the phone who knows this TV pretty well? I really would like to ask him some questions about this issue. Thanks guys.

Hey Barnsatble,
I was hoping to hear a bit more details about this resistor repair. I am about to undertake the same repair for my 56HM195. I believe my ballast has gone bad as I'm getting the lamp error LED code on start up. (I can hear the tv channel audio, but the lamp does not power up and I even put in a new lamp but no fix.)

Is it just a matter of soldering out the old resistor and swapping in the new one?
My ballast I believe is the D4456M-01 model. I can't see a R3 resistor. I have a R33 and a R2 resistor from what I can see. Additionally I can't see any burn signs to indicate that the resistor is bad. Did yours have any physical indications that it had failed? I also tried the Ohmmeter test at Radio shack on the ballast board and they still seemed to be working from what we could tell.

Do you guys think that I should just order a new ballast anyway?


OK, I am a new poster here, but I am seeing some similar issues:
1. I bought the set in 10/2004
2. I have replaced the lamp about 4 times - frustrating to "lease" a lamp every year ;(
3. I have successfully replaced the lamp each time until now. Prior to this time, they all had shattered glass in the lamp when they blew. So I am wondering if the lamp really blew
4. Based on all the posts, I decided to shotgun a replacement of the ballast board (allegedly a new one not a refurb)
5. I replaced the ballast and still get the lamp failure LED sequence
6. When I turn on, it tries to start up (I hear audio, the fan turn on and the color wheel spins), then it turns off without the lamp turning on.
7. I have probed the power connector inside the lamp compartment while turning on with a digfital voltmeter (whiled pushing in the safety switch on the lamp compartment). It tries to start up with the same result. Note that I do not see any voltage on the meter.
8. So here is my request for help.
- Any idea what is causing this?
- Is my voltmeter to slow to catch a quick transient turn on?
- Did I get bad ballast from Encompass?
- Did I get a bad lamp shipped to me from Advanced Lamps (it looks new and ok). I ahve not purchased from them previously.
- Has anyone been able to measure the resistance across the lamp (I get open across the lamp) - I am guessing you can't measure it if it is a mercury vapor lamp since it does not conduct until a high voltage is applied (and a ohmmeter uses low current/voltage)
- Does anyone know where the feedback is to indicate the lamp lit? If it is optical, I would doubt the system would react so fast the voltmeter misses the voltage turn-on/off. If it is load sensing, it might turn off too quick for the meter (note the lamp is not plugged in during my test for voltage).
- Does anyone know what the voltage input to the ballast board should be?
- Does anyone know what supplies the voltage to the ballast board (the service manual makes it look like it comes in off the A/C cord, but since it autopowers off the TV, I would guess there is something between the A/C cord and the feed to the ballast.
- For those that have measured the output voltage for the ballast (I only saw one or two posts), was it with the lamp plugged in? Any interlocks I could have missed?

BTW - has anyone used JustAnswer.com for paid help?

Please help, I like the TV and don't want to feed the landfill, but this is getting expensive!

Thanks in advance for any help.
John

I hardly ever use this tv it's on it's second bulb and going out in under 500hrs!!! what a pile of junk. honestly the picture sucks compared to my olevia 1080i 32" lcd. Even my 15 yr old sony 32" xbr looks better and still works just fine though it's been dropped a couple times and doesn't hardly get used anymore. How do i get to the bulb life menu the mute menu thing takes me to some other weird menu, not what i was looking for.

oh yea the fan never shuts off either unless i unlpug the tv

I don't know if this is the appropriate place to post this but I figure it will do the most good if I post this here.

I have a working 46hmx85 available for sale. It had the ballast replaced by toshiba about 2 years ago under warranty (kinda.) After going through 5 bulbs in 2 years I threatened them with Silverman Helps (Toronto members will know him) and Toshiba agreed to change the ballast for free. Since then the bulb has blown once, so the ballast appears to be a pretty good one.

So if anyone is looking for a TV for parts for their light engine, ballast or even a backup lamp (this one has about 1000 hours and is still going strong) I'd like to give this to someone else who got burned by Toshiba with these DLP's. Make a moderate offer if you are in the GTA and the TV is yours.

It isn't quite the same as my original plan of throwing it through Toshiba HQ's front window but then I don't want to give this TV the opportunity to give me anymore grief. I'm selling because I bought a new TV and don't need two big ones.

Apologies if this is not the place to post.

Bought 52HM84 August 2004. Ran 7am-Midnight ever day since then. Light engine failed out of the blue this morning (black vertical lines on all sources). Not too mad 'cause I definitely got my money's worth out of it. Funny, I bought a 55SV670U on Friday and it's getting delivered next week. Good timing or bad timing? A little bummed 'cause I was going to give the old set to my 16 year old, and now he won't get it.

Left with a brand new TB25-LMP OEM lamp in sealed box I won't need. If anyone needs one PM me.

I have a 62HM196, purchased in September 06. It has worked flawlessly everyday without a hitch - 6400 hours on the clock with original bulb. Over the past few weeks I have been experiencing a problem. About once per day (6 hours per day use on the average). The screen will go dark, the amber LED (above the blue one) will flash 15 times and this routine will recycle twice more. After about 2 minutes (after the third amber flash cycle) the screen will come back perfectly with no more problems til the next episode. The blue LED is constantly on and never changes. So far, it is not a real problem - just a nuisance, but I'm confident worse things are to come. Could someone tell me what to expect in the coming failure? Based on what I've read on the forum, the ballast is likely going. Also, should I take action now to prevent downtime waiting for a replacement part? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Glenn

Been a few years since I had to get a bulb - and the two replacements back then were both under warrenty. This is my first 'out of pocket' replacement.

Found Electrified.com that is selling an OEM replacement bulb Y66-LMP for 118 plus shipping.
Are they legit? And has anyone purchased from them - and how long did your bulb last (or how long is it going)?

My last bulb was a LMA (not LMP) - not sure what the difference was - except the LMA lasted 2 yrs 5 months (until tonight).

Does Toshiba still sell the bulbs or do they point you to a 3rd party?

Thanks!

Been a few years since I had to get a bulb - and the two replacements back then were both under warrenty. This is my first 'out of pocket' replacement.

Found Electrified.com that is selling an OEM replacement bulb Y66-LMP for 118 plus shipping.
Are they legit? And has anyone purchased from them - and how long did your bulb last (or how long is it going)?

My last bulb was a LMA (not LMP) - not sure what the difference was - except the LMA lasted 2 yrs 5 months (until tonight).

Does Toshiba still sell the bulbs or do they point you to a 3rd party?

Thanks!

Got one from here that lasted a year+ while in high lamp mode. Got another one that i've been running in low lamp for about 8 or nine months so far.

Okay had my 62HM196 for 3 years now and its awesome, love it.

Question for the forum please someone answer. I managed to get the POP feature working, but I do NOT see the point of it but maybe and hopefully I am missing something.

The one side of the picture out of picture will not handle an HD imput, alright, not cool but whatever, or at least this is what the manual points to but it seems some users have gotten around this. Hell in the one side I can only get ANT1 or 2 as a choice and when I went to setup to try and change it all the options are blanked out, which the manual said might be the case, only it didnt mention how to get around it! This could be the main stumbling block since if the "Terrestial" options are all locked, I have no way to configure ANT1 or the tuner it seems....Oh how I love manuals....

So I hooked up the cable from the cable box to the ANT2 input. Now I start up POP and I get two pictures (once I figured this much out). Great, so now what?

I mean if I change the channel, BOTH change. What is the point of having POP is both are going to be the same? Are you supposed to hook up a satelitte on one input and cable on the other? Maybe I should split the cable before the cable box and hook up that into ANT 1? Would rather not though.

I hope I have missed something but I sure dont see it in the manual. POP is useless unless you can watch two different things. I know I researched this when I bought it and it was a weak point, I just dont remember how bad.

Thanks for any help, I would love to just watch two cable channels at the same time, in HD or not, not as important. (especially handy for the olympics)

.

Hi everyone,

I just received a Toshiba 62HMX84 from my parents who got tired of replacing the bulb every year or so.

I replaced the blown bulb and powered up the tv and now have a couple of questions:

1.) After installing the bulb, the tv will power up after about 3-4 of the red and then flashing green light (9 times) cycles, but once on the picture very softly pulses. It is most noticeable when watching something with bright colors, the picture will pulse from bright to dull.

2.) The tv has 2 HDMI inputs but the menu only lists one HDMI input on the source selection menu on the tv and plugging in an HDMI source into the HDMI 2 input on the back of the tv results in nothing happening.

I hope someone has experienced some of these issues before and/or can share the knowledge to fix these issues.

Thanks,
Scott

Not sure if anyone still views this thread anymore, but I got an issue with my Tosh 56HM195 DLP RPTV. I get a fluorescent blue psychedelic effect, if varies with whats on the screen, in severity and amount (haven't figured out if its bright or dark areas that cause it more). I've tried resetting the TV, both the menu reset and a hard reset, with no results. I also had this issue before but it went away with a reset. Any help would be appreciated, I'm very comfortable taking the set apart as I've done it a few times. Thanks in advance.

If a picture would help, let me know and I'll get one.

Hi everyone,

I just received a Toshiba 62HMX84 from my parents who got tired of replacing the bulb every year or so.

I replaced the blown bulb and powered up the tv and now have a couple of questions:

1.) After installing the bulb, the tv will power up after about 3-4 of the red and then flashing green light (9 times) cycles, but once on the picture very softly pulses. It is most noticeable when watching something with bright colors, the picture will pulse from bright to dull.

2.) The tv has 2 HDMI inputs but the menu only lists one HDMI input on the source selection menu on the tv and plugging in an HDMI source into the HDMI 2 input on the back of the tv results in nothing happening.

I hope someone has experienced some of these issues before and/or can share the knowledge to fix these issues.

Thanks,
Scott

With regards to the pulsing from light to dark how many times does it do this? If it only does it once or twice it may just be the power up procedure, which will fire the bulb on HI and then switch it to Low, if low is what you have it set to in the settings menu. If the pulsing doesn't stop it may be a ballast issue.

The other HDMI input not being available is likely an input that has been deselected in the setup menu, this is explained in the owners manual if you don't have one go to Toshiba's web site. A reset should put everything back to default and re-open that input.

Good Luck and enjoy your new set.

I have a 52HM95 purchased in 2006. As of yesterday I see faint vertical lines going across the screen. They are in tight bunches, and then spaced apart and make up 9 thick columns of vertical stripes. The set is watchable and they are faint, but it is very distracting. What is causing this? Trying to decide if it's worth fixing or moving onto something newer.

Here's some images of my particular issue

http://C:\Documents and Settings\Dave\My Documents\My Pictures\032210\TV ISSUE

http://C:\Documents and Settings\Dave\My Documents\My Pictures\032210\TV ISSUE

Or then perhaps I can't figure out how to post images and rather could use som help in this matter as well :p

Here are some picture of the issue I am having. If someone can help me figure whats causing this that would be great, as I am pretty stumped. I do own the service manual but it has been little help, but I do have access to schematics.

The pictures show a 40 IRE window with the blue "ghosting" going off to the right. The second one shows log steps, if you notice the second grey step from the top has no ghosting, I have another log steps pattern that only has four steps and in that photo, only 2 steps have the ghosting. The third picture is of a grey ramp, notice the band of blue ghosting, the photo doesn't show it very well but there is ghosting around white as well but it looks more like blue snow/interference. What could be causing this?

Hi Guys,

I've read through ALOT of these pages in hopes of find out my problem but to no avail :(

I have a Toshiba 52HM84 and have yet to be happy for longer than 6 months at a time. The newest problem is that while watching TV it shuts off on its own and stays off. The only way to get it back on is to press the power button on the remote and allow it to do a few power cycles, or to let it sit for 10-15+ minutes and then it turns on on the first shot.

I first thought it might be overheating or on a timer, but it doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes it turns off within minutes, and other times it takes an hour or 2..the end result though is that it turns off on its own even. Someone said it may be a relay, but reading about all of the problems people are having, I haven't seen anyone complain about the relay..everyone has ballast or lamp issues.

PS. When the TV works it has no problems...just the fact that it turns off by itself.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! :)

Hi Guys,

I've read through ALOT of these pages in hopes of find out my problem but to no avail :(

I have a Toshiba 52HM84 and have yet to be happy for longer than 6 months at a time. The newest problem is that while watching TV it shuts off on its own and stays off. The only way to get it back on is to press the power button on the remote and allow it to do a few power cycles, or to let it sit for 10-15+ minutes and then it turns on on the first shot.

I first thought it might be overheating or on a timer, but it doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes it turns off within minutes, and other times it takes an hour or 2..the end result though is that it turns off on its own even. Someone said it may be a relay, but reading about all of the problems people are having, I haven't seen anyone complain about the relay..everyone has ballast or lamp issues.

PS. When the TV works it has no problems...just the fact that it turns off by itself.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! :)

I don't know if this will work but if you have a replacement lamp try putting it in and see if you get the same problem. There might be an imperfection in the lamp that's triggering the tv to turn off otherwise it wouuld be a ballast issue.
Just an idea.
Good luck

I had the same problem with my 46hmx. I solved it by opening up the door of the bulb compartment. If you look to the right in the compartment there is a small button/rod that gets depressed when you put the cover on. Tape that down with some good tape. After I did that I never had problems with the tv turning off. It was happening to me 2-3 times a night.

Even better solution is to throw the piece of crap out.

Hi Guys,

I've read through ALOT of these pages in hopes of find out my problem but to no avail :(

I have a Toshiba 52HM84 and have yet to be happy for longer than 6 months at a time. The newest problem is that while watching TV it shuts off on its own and stays off. The only way to get it back on is to press the power button on the remote and allow it to do a few power cycles, or to let it sit for 10-15+ minutes and then it turns on on the first shot.

I first thought it might be overheating or on a timer, but it doesn't make sense to me. Sometimes it turns off within minutes, and other times it takes an hour or 2..the end result though is that it turns off on its own even. Someone said it may be a relay, but reading about all of the problems people are having, I haven't seen anyone complain about the relay..everyone has ballast or lamp issues.

PS. When the TV works it has no problems...just the fact that it turns off by itself.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! :)

I'll open up the back tomorrow and look for the red button/rod and see if I can tape it down..but are there any other solutions?

Sorry I don't have a spare bulb so I'm going on the hope that its not the bulb since it works fine when its actually on

I wonder if anyone has troubleshooted this problem, or a very simpler one on a similar set down far enough to determine if the root cause is the ballast or the color wheel.

Problem description/facts:

1) TV will not come on, no video or audio.
2) Power supply fan runs as soon as plugged in (before turning on).
3) Lamp fan runs for about 3 seconds before shutting off after turning TV on.
4) Lamp lights for above mentioned 3 seconds before stopping.
5) Color wheel spins for the 3 seconds before stopping.
6) All fans have been checked and are good (4 total; DMD, Ballast, Lamp, power supply).
7) High temperature switch is good.
8) Door switch is good.
9) Lamp is good.
10) Red LED, after this 3 seconds, blinks at 0.5 second intervals forever. This indicates, according to the service manual, a fan error (presumably the light fan).
11) Can hear a sound when TV is turned on that sounds like a motor trying to start but can't (like a whining), coming from the back left side where the light engine is (with TV together). Sometimes, you can hear something trying to spin up then down then up for this 3 seconds or so from this area. It is difficult to describe this sound but is is like a motor running faster and faster then stopping and then running up in RPM again, then stopping all together until unplugged and plugged back in, after first waiting for the green LED to stop blinking after unplugging the set.

I want to determine, without taking the set apart again if possible, if the root cause is the color wheel motor, which is what I think it is. If someone has had this problem, and found the solution, I would appreciate knowing what was found.

I really don't want to buy something I don't need, and only want to take it apart one more time, and not multiple times. I could take it apart and troubleshoot it down to the component level, but I just don't have the spare time to spend on it, nor can I find the schematic for the Ballast board.

Thank you

I wanted to add one more thing I forgot to my post.

The voltage on the lamp fan rises to about 9 volts during this 3 seconds after which the set shuts down (everything turns off). This is repeatable. This lamp should get up to 13.5 volts DC, and will run between 6.5 volts to 13.5 volts DC.

Thanks

I have the same unit and if I remember correctly I had the same symptoms about a year ago. I replaced the ballast and cleaned everything including the color wheel. It's been fine since.

Here are some picture of the issue I am having. If someone can help me figure whats causing this that would be great, as I am pretty stumped. I do own the service manual but it has been little help, but I do have access to schematics.

The pictures show a 40 IRE window with the blue "ghosting" going off to the right. The second one shows log steps, if you notice the second grey step from the top has no ghosting, I have another log steps pattern that only has four steps and in that photo, only 2 steps have the ghosting. The third picture is of a grey ramp, notice the band of blue ghosting, the photo doesn't show it very well but there is ghosting around white as well but it looks more like blue snow/interference. What could be causing this?

I have this EXACT same issue with my 72HM195. For a couple of weeks, we started noticing flesh tones looking way off, especially in darker areas. Tried the fix of cleaning the color wheel and LE lens, but it made no difference. Then this week, the PQ suddenly became worse with this blue ghosting effect on all inputs, just as shown in your pics.

From researching this thread, I believe the only fix is to replace the entire light engine, which seems to be discontinued. What a shame, as I paid over $3K for this POS just 4 years ago!

I have this EXACT same issue with my 72HM195. For a couple of weeks, we started noticing flesh tones looking way off, especially in darker areas. Tried the fix of cleaning the color wheel and LE lens, but it made no difference. Then this week, the PQ suddenly became worse with this blue ghosting effect on all inputs, just as shown in your pics.

From researching this thread, I believe the only fix is to replace the entire light engine, which seems to be discontinued. What a shame, as I paid over $3K for this POS just 4 years ago!


I feel for you having payed that much, technology products seem to be made very poorly these days. I traded in a Mitsu CRT set for this one about 3 years ago, that had an issue Mitsu claimed wasn't an issue, I got them to buy the set back, but all that was available I could afford at the time was this Tosh DLP. At the time my biggest concern was the bulbs and the set not lasting for the lifespan a TV should (in my opinion at least 7 years). I find it funny that I'm now watching my 47" Pany CRT set that's 10 years old with a perfect picture.

Anyway I got the Tosh torn down and am in the process of looking for the issue, I'll keep you posted on what I find, if anything.

I know this is a older thread, but I have two DVR2160's for sale. One operates 100%, but the other has a bad interface board that I confirmed by swapping boards between the two.
Both drives have a copy of HD Net's test patterns (a 15 minute segment). Both also have very low hours. These work off of older Samsung, Mits and Toshiba TV's with 1394 ports.

The one with the bad interface board could easily be modified for a external HDD enclosure for a PC. ;)

PM me if interested.

Someone locally has a Toshiba 52HM95 for $50. They say it needs a lamp and a light wheel. Assuming that's all it needs is it worth it? Also about how much would it cost to get it back up and running?

Ryan

I tried starting a thread of same name and nobody has replied.
I have done my best to go thru thread after thread and have not seen exactly my problem. If i am mistaken please point me in the direction of an applicable thread.
I bought my toshiba Dlp a 52HM84 roughly five or so years ago and like many experienced a sudden disappearance of picture signalling that a pricey replacement bulb was needed.
Did it about a yr + after i bought it and did it again a yr ago. So on my third bulb including original.

But enough rambling and on to my current problem that has lasted a month and is best described as a subtle constant change of contrast back and forth. The screen goes very subtly lighter..then darker..then lighter.
It is extremely irritating but unlike some with only certain spots on screen an issue with flicker dots etc that is not my problem. Nor is it something you would see at a quick glance, you must watch a few moments then you see it stay ok...then slightly lighter..as if someone hit the contrast button down one notch..then up..then down...lighter..then darker.

I dont know if its bulb...as other two times it gave no warning or loss of picture quality..just went dark one day...this is different.

Help...?........Please?

I have seen that on my 52HM84 as the bulb was nearing EOL. My first bulb would flicker subtly (it was more noticeable in the first 5-10 minutes after I turned it on). IIRC it did that for several months before it finally died. My next bulb didn't do that, just popped suddenly with no real picture degradation at all to warn me it might be imminent.

I too had the same question about replacing the light wheel on my 62HMX95. I called a local repair shop, and they said it would be expensive. They would not give me a price though? I asked if it would be more than $800.00 Their reply was yes.

I'm looking for a source for a replacement outer screen for my Toshiba 52HM84. My internet search has come up dry. Does anyone know of a source for these?

Thanks

Anyone have problems with a less than 1 year old lamp from Toshiba delaminating? Seriously, the reflective coating is literally coming right off. The lamp came direct from Tosh.

I'm looking for a source for a replacement outer screen for my Toshiba 52HM84. My internet search has come up dry. Does anyone know of a source for these?

Thanks

www.searspartsdirect.com

I'm having an issue with a "new" bulb (third party) which was purchased on eBay. When I set the TV to low power mode, after about half of startups I get slight flickering of the picture, as if the lamp is shifting between low power and high bright. It does not resolve itself, but if I set the TV to high bright, the picture is stable (and looks great)... but this will shorten the bulb life, and I'd like to avoid it if possible.

I'm assuming this is a lamp issue since I did not have this issue with my prior lamp (which lasted about a year and 4 months :/ ), but could it be the TV (46HM84)?

Hey guys, I'm looking to replace the lamp on my 50HMX96 soon (still rockin' the original, and this thing is on ALL the time), however I live in Canada. I know in the US you are able to get replacement lamps including the housing for around $130, but it seems that price is doubled as soon as you cross the border. I'll be calling customs to ask about duty fees on this particular item, but can anyone suggest a Canadian retailer that doesn't try to charge an arm and a leg for a new lamp?

Also, is there a particular manufacturer I should be looking for, or are they all pretty much the same?

I just got a lamp replacement from Japan Audio in Winnipeg for my Toshiba 62HM196. There is a parts reseller page on the Toshiba website and that is where I got their name from. I hope it solves my issue so I can continue to rock this baby for a few more years.

Anyone have an electronic copy of the manual for a Toshiba 62HM196? It is NOT found on Toshiba.ca or Toshiba.com I just moved and cannot find mine :mad:

Just Google for the manual. Here's a link to download it from Crutchfield:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4GyAVCdnvwK/p_05262HM196/Toshiba-62HM196.html
Look on the right side of the page, below "What's in the box".

Guys I`m going to be selling my 62HM195 which is in excellent condition and has never had any technical problems at all.

I can post some screen shots if I can figure out how to. It still has 4 months full warranty on all parts except for the bulb which is about 4 months old directly from Toshiba.

The warranty as well as a clean service history can be varified.

My set still functions as it did the day I purchased it January 2006.

$600.00. I just purchased a 3D set whcih will be here on the 7th.

Shoot me a PM if interested.

after reading a few post about the tv starting up and going black while using generic bulbs I bit the bullet and paid the $250 for the official Toshiba bulb. TV is working again.

I checked the lamp hours and it was at 2650hrs.

The model number of the new bulb was Y196-LMA instead of Y196-LMP. Does anyone know what the difference is? if any?


Hi,

I asked the same in another thread but no responses yet so just wondering if anyone knows what the difference is? is one worse than the other

Thanks

My Toshiba 56MX195 is just back from the shop after having the optical block replaced. Now, when I turn it on I occasionally get an all red image screen. By switching to another input I get a regular full-color image. Then it's the same full-color image on all inputs. The set is still under the repair warranty. Any clue as to what's going on? By the way, has anyone ever got a 1080p image on this set? The most I've ever seen on the set is 1080i.
Thanks!

My Toshiba 56MX195 is just back from the shop after having the optical block replaced. Now, when I turn it on I occasionally get an all red image screen. By switching to another input I get a regular full-color image. Then it's the same full-color image on all inputs. The set is still under the repair warranty. Any clue as to what's going on? By the way, has anyone ever got a 1080p image on this set? The most I've ever seen on the set is 1080i.
Thanks!

I assume it is similar to my 62HM196. The set has a 1080p display. It only accepts 1080i tops as input - then it de-interlaces it to 1080p for the display. Everything lower is upscaled to 1080p. If you have a blu-ray player that can output 1080p, you'll need to set it to 1080i so that the TV can accept it.

My Toshiba 56MX195 is just back from the shop after having the optical block replaced. Now, when I turn it on I occasionally get an all red image screen. By switching to another input I get a regular full-color image. Then it's the same full-color image on all inputs. The set is still under the repair warranty. Any clue as to what's going on? By the way, has anyone ever got a 1080p image on this set? The most I've ever seen on the set is 1080i.
Thanks!

I'd get the red image problem fixed while still under the repair warranty. It might get worse over time.

As it is a sporadic problem, keep a camera handy and either snap a picture or video of the problem for the repair guys. A video would show the problem being fixed by switching inputs.

Okay had my 62HM196 for 3 years now and its awesome, love it.

Question for the forum please someone answer. I managed to get the POP feature working, but I do NOT see the point of it but maybe and hopefully I am missing something.

The one side of the picture out of picture will not handle an HD imput, alright, not cool but whatever, or at least this is what the manual points to but it seems some users have gotten around this. Hell in the one side I can only get ANT1 or 2 as a choice and when I went to setup to try and change it all the options are blanked out, which the manual said might be the case, only it didnt mention how to get around it! This could be the main stumbling block since if the "Terrestial" options are all locked, I have no way to configure ANT1 or the tuner it seems....Oh how I love manuals....

So I hooked up the cable from the cable box to the ANT2 input. Now I start up POP and I get two pictures (once I figured this much out). Great, so now what?

I mean if I change the channel, BOTH change. What is the point of having POP is both are going to be the same? Are you supposed to hook up a satelitte on one input and cable on the other? Maybe I should split the cable before the cable box and hook up that into ANT 1? Would rather not though.

I hope I have missed something but I sure dont see it in the manual. POP is useless unless you can watch two different things. I know I researched this when I bought it and it was a weak point, I just dont remember how bad.

Thanks for any help, I would love to just watch two cable channels at the same time, in HD or not, not as important. (especially handy for the olympics)

.

I realize this is kinda old, but...

You need two sources to make this work. To make it work nicely, you need two HD sources.

You can't split the cable AFTER the box, because as you already found out - you'll get the same channel on both inputs. You might be able to split it BEFORE the box, and then run one of the cables directly into the TV. You won't get HD this way, but you'll get whatever channels your company is running unscrambled - usually referred to as "basic" cable. And I am not sure if it even exists in some markets anymore...

Ideally, you would order a second HD box from your cable or satellite company and have them hook it up to the second input, and then you'll have two different channels for POP. Good luck remembering which remote is which.

The ghetto option is to just hook up an antenna to one of the inputs, and then use the HD OTA signal - but of course the channel selection is going to be limited to what you can get OTA. I did this for football season the first year I had the set, and it's neat and my guests thought it was cool, but in my opinion it just isn't worth the trouble. A buddy of mine solved this problem by buying 4 TVs. To each his own.

Hi

I have a Toshiba 62HM195. About once in every 5 times I turn it on, the picture looks like the image below. If I turn it off, and back on, it usually fixes itself and the image is perfect.

I've had the television for 4-5 years. I'm on my 3rd bulb, which has been used for about the last 2 years. I do have a spare bulb but I've been waiting for the current one to pop before replacing.

Any ideas? Would putting the new bulb in fix the issue? Thanks.

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/3437/photo6x.jpg

I just pulled my 52HMX85 out of storage, (doing basement reno's), to sell it and am having some problems. The set turned on fine and played a bit of a movie then the picture disappears, small colored lines dance around the screen a bit and sound plays normally. Turn off the TV and it wont restart, (solid red - flashing green lights), after a few trys it starts but it all happens again in a few minutes.

My bulb is a good 4-5 years old but I swear I can see a bit of light in the vents in the back so I think the bulb is still on when the screen goes black, and I pulled the bulb out it looks fine. Does this mean my light engine is gone? Or could it be a bad ballast?

Anyone with similar symptoms please let me know what it turned out to be!

I just put a new resistor in my ballast. My problem is that when sliding the "light sled" back in I hooked the blue/white wires for the bulb door switch and it came unplugged (not from the door end) and I can not find where it came from. Does anyone have a pic where this belongs??? Please Help this Ham Fisted Nube !!! Thanx

Greetings - new poster here. I have a 52HMX94 that I've had for ~4 years. Bulb has been replaced twice, with the most recent lamp replacement about 5 months ago (May 2010). The set has been quite reliable - besides the two lamp replacements, the only issue we've had has been an intermittent problem with the sound, but turning the set off and then back on has been the solution for that.

This morning, I noticed the screen had color flickering. It would be ok and every few seconds the screen colors would flicker. Note that the screen brightness would remain constant, just the colors were flickering. This evening, it was much worse, with the screen showing redish colors (where it is normally blue). Still some flickering, but the base colors are off.

I adjusted the color so that it basically shows a black and white picture and it shows fine. No flickering. If I reset the color, the flickering is back.

I've read some of the older posts and think it may be the color wheel (since there is obviously something wrong with the color), however, we don't get any strange noises coming from the set. When I turned it on tonight, I did notice that at startup, there is usually a whirring sound (kind of like a hard disk starting up) and that did not seem to be present tonight.

Is this type of behaviour indicative of the color wheel being bad, or the ballast. Actually hope it's the ballast since that's a much cheaper part. Thanks in advance!!

Tom

Hello!

Thanks for being such a great resource... the information that is shared on this site is very helpful and is very much appreciated.

I am looking for a copy of the service manual for a Toshiba 50HM67 and have been unable to find one. I found a couple different links that looked good but the pages are expired and the file wasn't available. Does anyone have a 50HM67 service manual available or know where to point me to find one?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all,

I am a total beginner at AV and am wanting to get the best "bang for my buck" with the electronics that I currently own.

I have just moved back to the US from overseas, and have a Toshiba 46HM95 TV that is barely used and a Toshiba DVR 160HD4. I also have a rather old DVD player.

Here are the features that I am interested in having:

1. over the air digital tv (I have an antenna that is working great! I don't want to pay cable)
2. DVR, preferably HD
3. Ability to watch Netflix On Demand
4. Ability to watch Hulu and other internet TV

Note that my Toshiba DVR is not currently working - the TV Guide On Screen is not working, I think because it is digital in Chicago and the TV won't read it.

Again, I am a total beginner at this! Thoughts on the optimum setup for minimal cost? Right now I am thinking that I will buy: 1) Artec TV Guide Digital-to-Analog Converter Box, Model T3APR-T to get the TV Guide and DVR working; 2) A Wii (to get netflix going - though won't be HD)

Thoughts on better option? I am sure there are better ones out there!

You could get a bluray player for netflix and hulu.

DVR for OTA has a few options, either a sat box like a SV8000 or go to the OTA HD recording forum to find the few other options - ie. Tivo, etc.

52HM84, six years old. It's been a good unit, though like most of Toshiba's HMs it's used a lot of lamps. I was lucky to have an extended warranty, but it's timed out.

Now, there's insufficient brightness.

noob in this forum, but I know which end of the soldering iron gets hot and will have no trouble opening and working on this set.

Two different new lamps turn on properly, but are rather dim.
One supposedly new lamp produces the green-red "bad bulb" alert for a while, but on the 3rd or 4th cycle comes on - but is dim.

I think the ballast is involved when first turning on the lamp. But could it have a lingering effect of some sort, that reduces brightness?

So:

New light engine? (where to buy)

Open and clean out the dust?

Some nifty diagnostic step?

Thanks, gurus

FYI for folks.

Toshiba TV is 3-1/2 years old with about 6,100 hours of use. Unit began making high-pitched whining noise. TV Tech said noise coming from color wheel.

He searched for a new color wheel, but had no luck. So he replaced the light engine assembly which includes the color wheel (and fans). Parts and labor were $517. Job took about forty-five minutes. It didn't seem complicated for him, but I wouldn't try it myself.

Hi everyone, I need some further information regarding color asjustments on my Toshiba 52HM85. I have replaced the color wheel and I see an overabumdance of purple. I have gone through the RCUT and number 9 bit. But WHAT"S NEXT??? I do not see what else I must do. Will this reset the colors?? Do I need a technician???

Thanks,

Franky100

Hi all--
Hi all--Sorry about the cross posting, I know this probably exists somewhere, I can't seem to find it, so my apologies. Have had my 62HM195 for about 5 years--a couple bulbs replaced but overall have really enjoyed the TV.

All of a sudden a month ago the colors are all screwed up, splotchy/ghosting (pink especially off bright things) and I can't figure out why. Opened it up, no big buildup on the color wheel (if I was looking at the right thing). I cleaned up the small amount of dust and even tried a new bulb, it didn't help. Attached is a video showing what it looks like--the gradiation on Brian Williams' face shows what I mean--that is indicative of what I see.

Problem goes away if I jack the contrast, brighness, and color down to the low 30s--very very hard to watch, however, when I do that! Not a long term solution at all.

Thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJcgQCjXUME

jJcgQCjXUME

I've already posted this in another very old thread, but I thought I'd add it here as well since I started out here in the first place and someone might actually get some use from it.

Short version: I had the long-standing HDMI compatibility issue between my Toshiba 62HM84 DLP TV and my Onkyo TX-SR705 receiver. I bought the updated HDMI module, installed it last weekend, and I can now run all video through my Onkyo receiver and one HDMI out to my TV.

Long version: I think I purchased the Toshiba 62HM84 DLP TV back in Nov 2004 and it's worked great (still does). Sometime in 2008, I ran into the HDMI compatibility issue when I purchased an Onkyo TX-SR705 receiver and tried to run all video into the Onkyo receiver and HDMI out to the TV. Never could get that configuration to work. The closest I could get was video but no audio, but that was it. After a lot of searching, I found the thread I'm on now back in 2008 on page 256:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=438276&page=256

and I found a mention about the Onkyo/Toshiba HDMI compatibility issue and a link to another thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022038

I did a lot more research to find the HDMI module and finally tracked down the module at Sears Parts Direct. However, since I had already got everything working through some creative wiring with the bluray HDMI direct to TV, and the DirecTV receiver, Xbox 360, and old Xbox all component to the Onkyo receiver, then one component out to TV (plus all the optical and digital coax cables for audio; lots of extra cables), I thought it would be best just to wait until the TV was a little older before I broke it :).

I finally got around to buying the updated HDMI module from Sears Parts Direct in Feb 2010 (part number 23148055), but held off from attempting the upgrade until last weekend (23 Oct 2010). I figured since I was getting the new Xbox 360 250Gb with Kinect in a couple of weeks, this might be a good time to test my skills.

Skipping all the little details, I wasn't even sure how to get the old module out when I started, but there were a lot more screws to remove than I would have thought. Since I had never taken a TV apart before, I can say the "procedure" was interesting. After awhile, I figured out the input section of the TV was on a tray that could be slid out if I removed some more screws. Once I figured that out, things got a little easier. After moving a few wires and untying some others, I was able to get the old HDMI module out far enough to remove the four sets of cables (and that wasn't easy either; three of the four wires sets were "seated" down inside their sockets making it impossible to remove even with needle-nose pliers. I ended up having to slowing pry them out with a small flat-head screwdriver).

When I finally got the old module out, I compared it to the new one. From the outside, they were exactly the same except for the sticker on the side. The white rectangular sticker on the old module had "MHDM01" while the new module had a green rectangular sticker that had "MHDM01A", which I was guessing/hoping meant a later revision of the module which might solve my issue.

Once I put everything back together, I rewired my setup to run all video directly to the Onkyo receiver and only HDMI out to the TV. I took a large handful of wires that I hopefully no longer needed, set them aside, and fired everything up. I first went into the Onkyo receiver setup and set "HDMI Out > HDMI Monitor" to "Yes" and changed the HDMI inputs to what I had wired, set "HDMI Audio" to "Yes", and hoped for the best. To my great surprise, I had video and audio for the first time through HDMI out from the Onkyo to the TV.

So hopefully, next week when I get the new Xbox 360, I'll plug it into my last remaining HDMI-IN on the Onkyo and everything will work fine (the DirecTV receiver and bluray player take up the first two). I'll post back to let everyone know how it goes.

Just want to say, without AVS Forum and all the people posting here, this wouldn't have been possible, so thanks.

PUCKY

I have the same issue on my 72HM195. What I did was to reset the tv to oroginal factory settings by going into the System Setup in the Installation menu in the manual. It worked for a few days and then the bleeding started again. I was hoping it was a lamp issue since I have not replaced mine in almost 5 years.

Hey guys, just wondering how much it would cost to replace the screen on my Toshiba 50HMX96 tv? I believe there are 3 layers, and the first 2 layers have huge cracks in it.

Any Help or input is appreciated.

Does anyone know of a way I can test the lamp from my 62HM95 outside of the TV? I think it might be busted but there are no pieces of broken glass in the unit. I want to make sure the lamp is the problem with my TV getting sound but no picture.

Does anyone know of a way I can test the lamp from my 62HM95 outside of the TV? I think it might be busted but there are no pieces of broken glass in the unit. I want to make sure the lamp is the problem with my TV getting sound but no picture.

It's your lamp.

http://store.l-f-l.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?pg=prod&ref=23311153A-ER&CMP=KNC-RPTV-G&tsacr=GO5392830264&gclid=CKr9_ofUm6UCFQNY2godVic5Jw

I have been googling like crazy and am unable to find the cause or fix for my 5 year old 52hm84. I noticed some slight distortion (text wobbling) a couple weeks ago, now the entire screen is distorted/fuzzy, kind of looks like zig-zags from top to bottom. I know it is not my external devices because even the menu options on the TV are fuzzy and wobbling even when not connected to anything. Any advise? I did take the back off, blow out with some canned air...but that did nothing. Please help!!

tealswin As a guess, I'd guess a board or component on a board is starting to go.

Thanks for the quick reply Paco...I'm thinking the same thing...but have no clue as to which one. I even got into the service mode...it showed an error code 10 under HDMI...but I cannot find any docs regarding error codes in the service mode either.

I have a power board and a Light engine (dmd board), but that still leaves a board or two not covered.
If you are interested, make an offer, pm me if you want.

I wish I could tell you more, you could look on the boards for any swelled caps, etc..

I got the new lamp in the mail today and installed it. Still no picture. I guess a ballast replacement is next. Unless someone thinks it might be something else.

It's your lamp.

http://store.l-f-l.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?pg=prod&ref=23311153A-ER&CMP=KNC-RPTV-G&tsacr=GO5392830264&gclid=CKr9_ofUm6UCFQNY2godVic5Jw

in867, Can you hear your color wheel try to spin up?

I have a Toshiba 62hmx84 dlp tv. Last night my boyfriend was using the TV. He turned it off, then back on quickly because he forgot to turn off his PS3. It emitted a high pitched shreking sound, and now the brightness is consideribly decreased.

Lamp hours say: 2535
I see Error Code 30 on the same menu

Is there an error with the TV? Is it time for a new bulb?

We have brightness set to 100, but it's still dark and it turns blacks green (does anyone else have that problem too?)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Set is no longer under warranty and has everything inside it replaced within the past 2 years. (This TV has given me hell ever since I bought it)

If it is due for a lamp replacement, how much should I be looking at to spend? I know how to change the lamp myself as one time it was returned from being repaired, they didn't have the lamp in right so I had to fix it.

I would try a lamp first, if not then it might be the ballast but they usually work or don't.
Lamps shouldn't be more than 100-150 depending on whether you get the assembly or a bulb.
Try to stay with a phillips of toshiba lamp though, not some off brand, maybe osram but the other 2 are preferred.

Check your local craigslist also, many times people have lamps they are selling after getting rid of the tv.

My 3-year old 65HM167 (bulb replaced 1 year ago) now has 4 small grey/blueish rectangular bars (2 on top of the screen, 2 on bottom), as well as a long series of white dots along both the right and left sides of the screen. In fact, the whole thing looks oddly symmetrical.

The television is still watchable, but it's quite a distraction.

From what I gather, it's the light engine which needs to be replaced. So, I have a few questions:

1. Can anyone confirm if this description does fit with a light engine malfunction?
2. If so, is replacement the only option?
3. The problem is now a week old and has not deteriorated. But from what I've read (about the white dots), it will get worse. Is this true?
4. If it is the light engine, is it worth spending the $600+ for replacement and installation, or is this just throwing 'good money after bad.'

Appreciate any advise on this issue. I guess if I do have to replace the set, this is a good week to shop, given the anticipated deals on Black Friday.

I think the lamp has died today. We're going to a store tomorrow to pick one up.

Right now it's a 90 lb radio with no picture (just black) but it has sound. The TV cycles to try to correct the problem like the manual suggests then both green and red lights blink, only to have you turn the power on again to repeat over and over.

If the lamp replacement doesn't fix the issue (I'm like 95% sure it's the case now) what else could it be and how much money could the part be?

Trying to gauge if it's time to junk the set and get with more modern times :p

Could be the ballast, I have one on ebay for cheap right now, but normally they are under $100 or you might be able to repair yours.

Thank goodness.

New bulb installed. TV works like new. Old bulb was completely shattered. Does anyone usually have an issue with blacks having a greenish tint? If so any way to correct that?

I have a Toshiba 52" DLP Projection HDTV (52HM85) from early 2006.

Was for some time making a buzzing noise when turned on (and noise would go away), now it will not turn on (no picture); it tries multiple times to re-start itself without success.

Bulb is good; has been replaced several times.

Boards suggest light engine and/or color wheel could be the problem? Are these the same thing or different?

What to do? Estimated cost?

Thks.

cactuar, try turning down the brightness and/or contrast. Maybe go to low on the bulb setting.

color wheel is a replaceable part in the light engine. You need to determine where the buzzing noise is coming from. Should be either the ballast or color wheel.

ballast is less than $100 used. Color wheel - depends on whether it is available by itself or if they want you to get a refurb light engine.

color wheel is a replaceable part in the light engine. You need to determine where the buzzing noise is coming from. Should be either the ballast or color wheel.

ballast is less than $100 used. Color wheel - depends on whether it is available by itself or if they want you to get a refurb light engine.


Expect it is the color wheel and am told I can get one (to confirm when Toshiba opens up again)

pacofortacos (or anyone else) - do you know if this is a user replaceable module that I could replace myself (reasonably handy but no soldering)?

Thks

The color wheel?
Yes it is and it depends on what you get.
After you remove the 1-2 covers on the light engine then :
The whole assembly is held in by 3-4 screws (depending on model), then there is the ribbon cable and another cable. Unplug at the board, not at the color wheel.

So if you get the assembly - wheel and rpm board - it is as above.
If just the wheel comes, then it will need to be unscrewed from the assembly.

The ribbon cable spins the color wheel, the other cable goes to the rpm board.

Just wanted to post my issue to see if people feel it is the LAMP that needs to be replaced. I have the 56HM195 model. I've had it since 11/05 and never had to replace the bulb. I haven't had any major issues with it up until this past week when I started to notice the screen dimming and brightening very sightly. It's really noticed on brighter colors, such as white. It doesn't do it right off the bat when TV is first turned on. It does it after it has been on a while.

Another issue I have noticed within the last couple months is that occasionally on some TV shows, people's faces might have a splotch of green or yellow tint. Not their whole face, just parts of the face. This may be due it needing to be dusted out.

I know the TV probably needs a good dusting out as I've never done it in the past 5 years.

Thoughts on if I should replace the bulb or not. I've been looking online for the Toshiba brand bulb and appears to run about $160ish.

Thanks for help!

We have both sets, built about a year apart. Side by side, and fed the same signal via HDMI, the 46" is significantly superior even when the lamp is swapped. That's so even after partial disassembly, internal cleaning (including the lens), etc. Settings are optimized (hopefully) on both.

Considering the smaller area, I would expect the 46" to be slightly better (same wattage and pixels), but the difference goes beyond expectations.

???

Question regarding Toshiba 52HM95 DLP. It appears I'm going to need my 6th light engine in six years. Does Toshiba even make the parts for this model anymore? The few parts places I've called say no and that it's a "remanufactured" component? Does anyone make the electronic components for the light engine if Toshiba has discontinued the model?
We purchased the service contract when we got the unit so everything is covered but does it make sense for the company to keep repairing it if the parts are no longer made?

I have a Toshiba 52" DLP Projection HDTV (52HM85) from early 2006.

Was for some time making a buzzing noise when turned on (and noise would go away), now it will not turn on (no picture); it tries multiple times to re-start itself without success.

Bulb is good; has been replaced several times.

Boards suggest light engine and/or color wheel could be the problem? Are these the same thing or different?

What to do? Estimated cost?

Thks.

I've had the same problem, multiple times with my set. I have multiple receipts for light engine repair and replacement. The piece itself costs anywhere from $600-$700 dollars and the labor had been about $180.
Fortunately, we had purchased the service agreement and none of it has been out of pocket, except the $300 for the initial service agreement.
All in all, it cost the dealer about $4,000 to keep the set running to this point. I just wonder when they'll cut their losses.

I've received multiple answers on the question if the components are available and if the unit is fixable. Whether or not it's worth it is up to the end-user.

I am parting with a perfectly working 56HM195, remote and matching stand. Probably try craigslist.

Obviously can't ship it but reading through all the posts, wondering if I should take out the light engine assembly and power board/audio assemby and sell it for parts vs the whole thing. Those are the two main items inside each on its own tray. I replaced the light engine myself about 3 years ago when Sears shipped it under warranty and never showed up to do it, so I did it myself. Wasn't hard, took about 40 mins.

Is there a market for these assemblies?

I would buy that set for a fair price if (1) it uses the TB25-LMP and (2) it's not too far away.

Where are you?

I would buy that set for a fair price if (1) it uses the TB25-LMP and (2) it's not too far away.

Where are you?

Different Lamp, uses the D95 model.
I'm in S. Fla.

Pity. I like these sets - have two of them and would like to get one more for my daughter as we have a stockpile of lamps and some ballast knowledge.

You should be able to sell it locally via craigslist, and if that fails part it out via eBay. Good luck!

I have a 62HM195 that was here when I bought the house about a year and a half ago. It has always made a humming noise that has been constant since I've had it. It stays even after the TV is turned off, then it shuts down and sounds like a jet engine powering off.

Lately, there has been an increase in a grinding sound and the occasional picture flickering (mostly when the TV starts up) accompanies the grinding.

Very rarely the picture will go completely out and will return once the tv is powered on/off. Other, than that there is really no effect on the picture.

I took a video of the problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eFGHe9eZpE

I have a 62HM195 that was here when I bought the house about a year and a half ago. It has always made a humming noise that has been constant since I've had it. It stays even after the TV is turned off, then it shuts down and sounds like a jet engine powering off.

Lately, there has been an increase in a grinding sound and the occasional picture flickering (mostly when the TV starts up) accompanies the grinding.

Very rarely the picture will go completely out and will return once the tv is powered on/off. Other, than that there is really no effect on the picture.

I took a video of the problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eFGHe9eZpE

Its either the color wheel or the cooling fan for the bulb.
The cooling fan stays on 4-5 mins after you shut down to cool down the bulb.

If you feel adventurous, take the back cover off and carefully stop the cooling fan while its running. But do it briefly or the TV will shut down.
If when you stop the fan, the noise is gone, you've found it.

If when you stop the fan its still making the noise its the color wheel and there's little you can do about that, but get a new light engine.

I just sold my 56HIM195 but if it is the cooling fan, I'd be surprised if its not the same one I used and I have an extra from mine. Its about 5" or 6" square and has "AFB1212L" as the part number. If you need it, PM me.

Its either the color wheel or the cooling fan for the bulb.
The cooling fan stays on 4-5 mins after you shut down to cool down the bulb.

If you feel adventurous, take the back cover off and carefully stop the cooling fan while its running. But do it briefly or the TV will shut down.
If when you stop the fan, the noise is gone, you've found it.

If when you stop the fan its still making the noise its the color wheel and there's little you can do about that, but get a new light engine.

I just sold my 56HIM195 but if it is the cooling fan, I'd be surprised if its not the same one I used and I have an extra from mine. Its about 5" or 6" square and has "AFB1212L" as the part number. If you need it, PM me.

I was planning on trying to stop the cooling fan this weekend since the grinding noise had subsided. However my lamp just blew so I'm thinking the cooling fan was the problem. Anything I should check before I replace the lamp? I guess I should go ahead and replace the fan too?

I'm amazed this thread is still active, and with problems similar to mine, no less...

We are the second owner of a 62HM94, have had it for about a year now. Worked with no issues up until late May, when the bulb blew with a loud bang. We replaced the bulb (we believe it to be at least the third bulb installed in this TV) a couple weeks later and the TV returned to normal functioning until about three weeks ago, when it began to have difficulty turning the lamp on (solid red indicator, flashing green indicator just before a retry), though sound still works and I can still change the input source blind. At first it only took a couple of retries to bring the TV to life, but now the problem has degenerated into taking half an hour or more of retries to get a picture, if at all.

From what I'm reading above, and by the fact the TV does still turn on properly occasionally (and it works great when it does, until it's turned off), it sounds like the lamp ballast might have gone bad. What exactly is involved in trying to repair these ballasts, and where would I find one online? The cheapest I've found them online is $165 on eBay, which is honestly a little more than I'm willing to pay when I'm not sure if the TV will last another half a year without developing some other problem.

Any help is appreciated!

My 65HM167 has developed a strange problem and I haven't found anything on the web to help so I figured I'd see if anyone else has had this happen...

Every couple of hours of viewing is suddenly interrupted by the television randomly dialing the number 5, which after a couple of seconds brings it to the antenna channel 5 and a screen of static.

I've looked around to see if perhaps it was one of my remotes, assuming at first that I or one of my animals accidentally hit 5 on the remote....but that was quickly debunked because it happens frequently. I tried removing batteries from all of my remotes, but it still randomly does it.

The only thing that I can think of that may be the cause of the problem is the router that I hooked up recently...but I've never heard of one doing anything like that. Has anyone ever had a problem like this, and is it likely my TV or an external source that is the problem?

mcwaters, maybe someone is sitting outside with a remote and just screwing with you :)

Wouldn't that be a riot LOL

Hopefully it is getting a signal from somewhere and it isn't internal.

Hi all,

Replaced the bulb in my 62HM15 with bulb from discount-merchant.com about two months ago. Yesterday my TV started acting up again. It now turns off after about a half-hour of viewing and both the green and red lights blink. According to the manual that indicates a lamp problem.

Discount-merchant.com's tech rep tells me that it might be the ballast as opposed to the lamp and that if I return the lamp and they determine the lamp isn't defective they'll charge me $20. He also informed me that they'll only replace a lamp once under warranty. So if this lamp is defective and they replace it by sending me another lamp that turns out to be defective, I'm just SOL. Nice policy. Not.

So any thoughts on whether or not to send this lamp back or is there a way to troubleshoot to determine if it's the lamp or ballast that is causing the TV to turn off?

Thanks!! :)

Could be either, are you using Low or High power? Switch to the other and see if the problem continues.

Check your lamp door also to make sure the switch is made and not going open after the set warms up.

Could be either, are you using Low or High power? Switch to the other and see if the problem continues.

Check your lamp door also to make sure the switch is made and not going open after the set warms up.

Thanks for the idea! I switched it from low power to high power and the TV has now been on for about 5 hours without an issue. So that's good for now but would that imply that the problem I saw before was due to a bad lamp or something else? Still trying to figure out if I should send the lamp back for replacement under warranty or not....

Thanks!

When high power is viewable but low power isn't, it's time to get a new bulb.

When high power is viewable but low power isn't, it's time to get a new bulb.

Thanks, Hunter Green. I'm going to return the bulb to Discount-Merchant bulbs. Based on my conversation with a customer rep there a week or so ago I have a suspicion that they're going to argue the bulb isn't bad and try to charge me $20 for a replacement. Is there any way to "prove" the bulb is bad? Thanks!

Apparently this is a new one, because I don't find it here...Anyway I'll try, maybe someone knows about this.

Yesterday I arrived from work and the green light was on, but TV was off. When turned on, although input was HDMI, the unit began changing channels (this with nothing on them, since I have no antenna connected).

I disconnected the power chord for a while, and apparently everything was fine.

Today, when returning from work, when turned on, green and red lighted steadily and the TV did nothing else, with no response to the remote. I went for the power chord again and all fine now, but I'm worried. What could be happening?

Hey everyone. I have a 72HM196 and am wondering what the latest firmware version everyone has? i haven't updated it at all since i got the TV 3 years ago. also, how would i do an update? thanks.

Thanks, Hunter Green. I'm going to return the bulb to Discount-Merchant bulbs. Based on my conversation with a customer rep there a week or so ago I have a suspicion that they're going to argue the bulb isn't bad and try to charge me $20 for a replacement. Is there any way to "prove" the bulb is bad? Thanks!

Bumping this one up. :)

Is there any "test" to do on the bulb (e.g. resistance) before sending it back to prove it's bad? Thanks!

nope on the lamp

Hey guys, I am in need of some help. I have been scouring the depts of the internet looking for some set up info for my Toshiba 50HM67, and I can't find any. So these are my questions:
1). I just bought a blu-ray player and I want to know which resolution output I should use/if I should/can use 24fps mode on my player.
2). Just any general setup info that I should know to get the most out of this tv with my HD Verizon Fios cable box, and my XBox 360. Thanks.

who or where has firmware for 62HM84 [2004 model]?
its HDMI isnt compatible with Onkyo 905.....:mad:

Update the firmware and it will probably fix that. You can download it here http://support.toshiba.ca/support/ceg/downloads/all/view.asp?docid=D000007.

I probably will buy a ballast RPB-4434ZA PN-23122468 from US then ask local dealer [Taiwan] to install for me.

Ok, so has anyone done this replacement? I'm pretty sure (but not positive) this is what I need to do to my 52HMX94 as well. I've tried talking to the place where I bought my TV, but I just keep getting snubbed.

If been done, where did you buy the ballast from and how difficult was it to replace? Please advise....thanks so much in advance!

is that tiger dir com still running?
search tiger direct but shows no such page.

I got it at Tiger Direct Parts Search, but they show that part as no longer available. They do have a refurbished ballast board for under $90.00.

http://tigerdirect.partsearch.com/Part/Toshiba/Toshiba/23122468/Refurbished.aspx

same problem with my 62HM84. its dead by Xmas.:o

technician says its ballast problem, quotes $390 and have to wait 1.5 months.
think to order it online then send to me directly.
so should I buy 23122468 or 23122468P?

I have a Toshiba 52HM84.
The issue started around a month ago. When turning the TV on the red light would stay solid and the green light would blink 9 times. I would hear the audio but no video. The TV would then attempt to restart and would usually come on the second time. Recently it just started working again almost every time that I started it up. However, yesterday it started the symptoms again and I am lucky if I am able to get it to actually come on. Same thing was happening this morning as I as getting ready to leave for work. I have since talked to my wife and she was able to get the tv to come on after I left. I'm just trying to verify if this is indeed a Ballast issue and if that is what I need to replace.

Second question is what is the difference between part #'s 23122468 and 23122468P. They sound like they are the same thing, but the part that ends in P seems to be about half the price of the other. Is there any difference?

Thanks for your help in advance!!!

I bought a new bulb and replaced my old one. It fixed my flickering issue. The only weird thing is now when I turn on TV, it takes 3 attempts of TV turning itself off and then back on before it displays picture. I bought a Toshiba OEM bulb from discount-merhcant.

Any ideas on what issue is? Bad bulb or something else?

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I recently was given a 72MX195, which needed a lamp, for free. It came from a friend of mine who bought it around 2008. Very shortly after he bought it, it needed a lamp, then shortly after that the light engine went out, which took a little over 3 months to be repaired. During this time, he ended up just getting a new TV. When the TV came back from the light engine repair, he really had no room for it, so he loaned it to his neighbor who used it without issue for about a year, until the lamp died again. The neighbor returned the TV not working, and he had no room for it, so he gave me the set as-is.

I replaced the lamp last week with a new, non-OEM module from apexlamps.com. Now everything is working, but I'm seeing blue flickering lines across the screen, which seem to come from bright white or blue images. It started as an intermittent problem, which would go away after a few minutes. Then it got where it would come and go by the hour, be clear for an hour, then have the blue filckering lines for about an hour. Now it seems to do it nearly 100% of the time. It does it on all inputs, across all resolutions. Turning the settings to movie, and color temp to warm, minimizes the lines, but they are still very noticeable. I also tried a factory reset, but no luck.

I wish I could describe the flickering lines better, but instead I took a video...
8SFpq1SXt9A
At 25-40 seconds you can really get a good idea of the problem.

If anyone has any info on this I would greatly appreciate it. I replaced my Toshiba 46H84 with this TV and during the the few days that it worked perfectly, I fell in love with the size and really don't want to go back to my 46.

Hello I have been scouring the net for 2 days now and I am at a complete loss. I own a 62HMX94 It was working perfectly 2 nights ago. However My wife went to turn the television on and three different things happened one thing was it would not recognize our cable in the slot it had been plugged into for years. the second thing is we had absolutely no sounds on any channels or on any of our devices. Third thing was our PS3 when booted up the screen flashes green every once in a while, it is plugged into an hdmi port we have a Wii and a 360 and there are no problems with them other than no sound but they are not plugged into an HDMI port. We switched the cable around so it works now but not in the same slot it was in. However we still have no sound and still have the problem with the PS3. Please Help! Also another big problem that I forgot was that my remote control lags now. I have to hold in the power button and any other button for a good 10 seconds before it registers that I am pushing it. It also lags between changing channels.

Hello everyone, I recently was given a 72MX195, which needed a lamp, for free. It came from a friend of mine who bought it around 2008. Very shortly after he bought it, it needed a lamp, then shortly after that the light engine went out, which took a little over 3 months to be repaired. During this time, he ended up just getting a new TV. When the TV came back from the light engine repair, he really had no room for it, so he loaned it to his neighbor who used it without issue for about a year, until the lamp died again. The neighbor returned the TV not working, and he had no room for it, so he gave me the set as-is.

I replaced the lamp last week with a new, non-OEM module from apexlamps.com. Now everything is working, but I'm seeing blue flickering lines across the screen, which seem to come from bright white or blue images. It started as an intermittent problem, which would go away after a few minutes. Then it got where it would come and go by the hour, be clear for an hour, then have the blue filckering lines for about an hour. Now it seems to do it nearly 100% of the time. It does it on all inputs, across all resolutions. Turning the settings to movie, and color temp to warm, minimizes the lines, but they are still very noticeable. I also tried a factory reset, but no luck.

I wish I could describe the flickering lines better, but instead I took a video...
8SFpq1SXt9A
At 25-40 seconds you can really get a good idea of the problem.

If anyone has any info on this I would greatly appreciate it. I replaced my Toshiba 46H84 with this TV and during the the few days that it worked perfectly, I fell in love with the size and really don't want to go back to my 46.

Don't call a tech out as he will just tell you you need a new light engine. The color wheel has dust on it. All you need to do is clean it off and it will be as good as new

Hey guys, I am in need of some help. I have been scouring the depts of the internet looking for some set up info for my Toshiba 50HM67, and I can't find any. So these are my questions:
1). I just bought a blu-ray player and I want to know which resolution output I should use/if I should/can use 24fps mode on my player.
2). Just any general setup info that I should know to get the most out of this tv with my HD Verizon Fios cable box, and my XBox 360. Thanks.
I have the same model set. Although it is 720p, I notice a significantly better image if I set the BD output to 1080p. I remember a discussion about this set about 3 years ago and someone pointed out that Toshiba video processing works better with 1080p inputs.

Hope this helps,

Brian

but HM84 series wont accept 1080p........:(
wont even take HDMI from Onkyo 905......:mad:

anyone knows how to update firmware of Tosh 62HM84?:confused:

I have the same model set. Although it is 720p, I notice a significantly better image if I set the BD output to 1080p. I remember a discussion about this set about 3 years ago and someone pointed out that Toshiba video processing works better with 1080p inputs.

Hope this helps,

Brian

I was planning on trying to stop the cooling fan this weekend since the grinding noise had subsided. However my lamp just blew so I'm thinking the cooling fan was the problem. Anything I should check before I replace the lamp? I guess I should go ahead and replace the fan too?

Decided to just get a new TV. If I sold my 62HM195 for parts, how much would it be worth?

Unless you are willing to physically part it out, they usually go for about $50 on craigslist whole.

Don't call a tech out as he will just tell you you need a new light engine. The color wheel has dust on it. All you need to do is clean it off and it will be as good as new

Thanks for the advice, I tried a cleaning last night, and while it worked okay, its still not perfect. I'd say the picture is much more watchable now, now instead of seeing the lines on brighter images, you only see them on dark images. However, on the dark images, they are much worse than they ever were before. Now don't get me wrong, I'm hardly complaining, the worst time is the 2 second black screen pause between commercials. The rest of the time you can just tell there is like a solarized blue haze over the picture.

What I'm getting at, is should I try to clean it again? Or could this perhaps mean the color wheel is bad? I did notice I removed a layer of dust from the wheel, but I'm worried the cotton swabs I used may have left tiny cotton dust strands of their own. Thank you again for the help so far, I'm all ears if you have any more suggestions.

I cleaned every part of a free 52hm95 that my brother gave
and the picture is really pretty impressive now.....
M Y BROTHER CAN NOT BELIEVE ITS THE SAME TV..
The color wheel is going on it does anybody no of a wheel from another company like a samsung that fits it as the only one i could find was 275 ......
There are so many color wheels that look like they might work with a little diy.....Anybody got any ideas or a place that has replacements.......

Hey!

I have a 52HM84 and recently I replaced the lamp, cleaned the lenses, screen, and mirror. Colors look deeper and brighter, BUT...there's a light fluctuation that happens ocasionally on bright images. It's like the light was changing between high and low, although it's set for low.

I'm worried this has to do with the ballast and that I may loose my new lamp. What is your take on this?

I have a 62HM195...It's more than a few years old, and I have replaced the bulb once. A month or so after I replaced the bulb, the picture started to get a red "ghosting" in it. All of the figures in the picture have a red outline to the right of them. I have no idea what is going on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone? My flickering/fluctuation issue?

what is the market for these tv's?? bulb just burnt out on me again, and I purchased a new LED TV, so looking to see if there is an actual market for these.

Going rate is $50-80 on craigslist in non working condition. Working with a new lamp might get $200-400. and the $400 is pushing it. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the idea! I switched it from low power to high power and the TV has now been on for about 5 hours without an issue. So that's good for now but would that imply that the problem I saw before was due to a bad lamp or something else? Still trying to figure out if I should send the lamp back for replacement under warranty or not....

Thanks!

When high power is viewable but low power isn't, it's time to get a new bulb.

Hmmm....so switching from low power to high power got my TV working again. It worked well for a good month or two. However, now when I turn it on it doesn't turn on right away....it does the green light/red light thing a time or two and then turns on and works normally from that point forward. Does that still point to a bad bulb or is it likely that I'll run into the same problem after replacing the bulb? Thanks for any feedback! :)

Usually lamp or ballast will cause the starting issue.

Julio, try running it on high and keep it there to see if the flickering still occurs.

Hmmm....so switching from low power to high power got my TV working again. It worked well for a good month or two. However, now when I turn it on it doesn't turn on right away....it does the green light/red light thing a time or two and then turns on and works normally from that point forward. Does that still point to a bad bulb or is it likely that I'll run into the same problem after replacing the bulb? Thanks for any feedback! :)

Gentlemen and ladies, any thoughts on this new behavior? Switching from low power to high power seemed to solve the problem and others here indicated that that was a sign of a bad bulb. Does the fact that I've since had problems getting the TV to turn on still point to a bad bulb or is that a sign something else (e.g. ballast) is dying? Thanks!!!

Gentlemen and ladies, any thoughts on this new behavior? Switching from low power to high power seemed to solve the problem and others here indicated that that was a sign of a bad bulb. Does the fact that I've since had problems getting the TV to turn on still point to a bad bulb or is that a sign something else (e.g. ballast) is dying? Thanks!!! I have the 62HMX94 and say it points to a bad bulb. I have had to replace mine at least three times and have seen all different symptoms. One would periodically take two or three attempts to come to brightness and then would be fine. Another one would gradually start to dim and only changing to HI power would correct it. I have also had one that just blew one day after starting.

Personally, I don't know why everyone with this type of set doesn't carry a spare on hand. When they go, you are left without a TV for 2-3 days at least. I keep the one on hand that takes a few times to start and when I start having problems I can easily swap it with that one to see if the problem is corrected. If so, I just put the original back until it fails completely and then order a new one and then I put the one with the restart problem back on the shelf for the next time.

Man, I tell you, I'm about done with this DLP TV. I have a 62HM196 that I got just about 4 years ago. The original bulb lasted a bit over three years, which was great. I picked up a replacement bulb on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Y196-LMP-PROJECTION-EQUIVALENT-HOUSING/dp/B003BYQNIK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and that one only lasted me 9 months.

So, ordered a third bulb off of eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250771829733) late last week and it arrived yesterday. Worked for about a day, and now no picture again. I've reached out to them for a replacement, but we'll see.

So, I have two questions. First, I noticed the latest bulb had two half moon shaped cutouts on the sides of the reflective cone, so the cone isn't actually completely sealed. I read somewhere else that the bulb gets pressurized, so I'm not sure if the bulb was defective or it just really get pressurized. Anyone know if the bulbs are supposed to be completely sealed?

Second, I've never updated the firmware. I've watched the Toshiba site, but never seen any new one announced. Anyone know if there's anything more recent than the 2006 firmware that was on mine. I don't know the exact rev that's on mine since it's just what it's come with, but I do remember seeing 2006 in the date.

Thanks!

Hey does anyone know how to pull a ballast our a 62hm196? Or if you have a service manual handy that would also be nice.

There is a thread on Toshiba 52HM84 Ballast Replacement (with large pics!). I just got finished with replacing mine. If you're up to it, you can also try to repair your ballast. Typically, it is one of two resisters. R3 which is a 1000 ohm or R33 which is a 4.7 ohm. R3 was bad on mine. I replaced it, but there was still something else wrong with the ballast. I ended up ordering a new one. They run about $160 with a $40 core charge. If you look around (Google) you can find them for as low as $85-95 after the core return. You want a #23122468 (Toshiba number) or a D4434M-01 (Manufacturer number).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071492&highlight=toshiba+ballast

Man, I tell you, I'm about done with this DLP TV. I have a 62HM196 that I got just about 4 years ago. The original bulb lasted a bit over three years, which was great. I picked up a replacement bulb on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Y196-LMP-PROJECTION-EQUIVALENT-HOUSING/dp/B003BYQNIK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and that one only lasted me 9 months.

So, ordered a third bulb off of eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250771829733) late last week and it arrived yesterday. Worked for about a day, and now no picture again. I've reached out to them for a replacement, but we'll see.

So, I have two questions. First, I noticed the latest bulb had two half moon shaped cutouts on the sides of the reflective cone, so the cone isn't actually completely sealed. I read somewhere else that the bulb gets pressurized, so I'm not sure if the bulb was defective or it just really get pressurized. Anyone know if the bulbs are supposed to be completely sealed?

Second, I've never updated the firmware. I've watched the Toshiba site, but never seen any new one announced. Anyone know if there's anything more recent than the 2006 firmware that was on mine. I don't know the exact rev that's on mine since it's just what it's come with, but I do remember seeing 2006 in the date.

Thanks!

Followup to this. This morning I turned the TV on and it came right up. I let it run for about an hour and had no problems. So, I turned it off for a few hours and then tried to start it up again. Got the flashing yellow and after a few restart attempts, it fired up again. Could it be something other than the lamp unit?

Never mind i figured it out. I check the capacitors on the ballast and nothing seem wrong on it. I put it back together and it fired back up. Guess i might had got a cheap lamp. But still does anyone know where i can find a ballast in the day and age?

update...
i just re-flowed the solder on the big capacitor on the ballast board. So far it starts right up with hardly no delay. Guess it needed a re-flow but in any case if you have the same issue, just replace the big capacitor on the ballast board.

I have a 62HM195. Replaced the bulb in the television a short time ago. Had some blue streaks horizontally across the screen and been trying to see if I can find out what's going on. Also some buzzing like the fan might be going out. Now it's gotten really bad. Think "The Matrix" digitalization (is that a word?), only going up instead of down.

I got a picture:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=210492&stc=1&d=1304118710

Is this a light engine issue? Maybe a ballast? The light was flickering bad. Probably both. Any help is appreciated.

Looks likes a light engine issue.

Is there a simple fix to overscan when connecting a HTPC to a Toshiba DLP 62HM..94 (can't remember exact model, but new in 2005)

I have my HTPC connected via HDMI, and I am getting a slight overscan that annoys me when surfing the web. This thread is huge and I cannot search on my iphone.

HTPC
i3 2100 with built in graphics
Windows 7

Is there a simple fix to overscan when connecting a HTPC to a Toshiba DLP 62HM..94 (can't remember exact model, but new in 2005)

I have my HTPC connected via HDMI, and I am getting a slight overscan that annoys me when surfing the web. This thread is huge and I cannot search on my iphone.

HTPC
i3 2100 with built in graphics
Windows 7I have a 65HM167 model DLP set and use it as a PC monitor via the PC input on the set.

It only accepts a 1024x768 signal via this input, but fits with no overssan that I can see. If you are using the PC for HT, this won't likely give you the resolution you are looking for, but works very well for web surfing.

Might consider dual connections - HDMI for HT use and the PC input (assuming your model has this) for regular web surfing.

Looks likes a light engine issue.

Yeah, I found another thread with similar pictures. Balast fix and light engine replacement for sure. May be the balast fan too from the sound of it. I've decided it will be best to just get a new lcd instead of fixing this one. The picture on the new 3D sets are sweet and the age of this set shows when comparing them.

I'm at a loss for ideas at this point with my DLP.

I have 52HMX84 that has no picture and no blinking LED codes. I power it on you hear the click, whine up then down, then the whine settles and no picture. You can see light coming from the fan vent and when the room is dark you can see the usual DLP lit black on the screen. No menu no anything.

I pulled the bulb, looks good, stuck my finder in the lamp door switch and powered it on and the color wheel spins while it cycles through the restarts. I changed the ballast board on the slim chance it was just weak. No change after installing the new ballast board.

Before a light engine is there anything else I should check or replace? I haven't been able to find any posts online anywhere that has helped, so I figured its time to post for help.

I'm at a loss for ideas at this point with my DLP.

I have 52HMX84 that has no picture and no blinking LED codes. I power it on you hear the click, whine up then down, then the whine settles and no picture. You can see light coming from the fan vent and when the room is dark you can see the usual DLP lit black on the screen. No menu no anything.

I pulled the bulb, looks good, stuck my finder in the lamp door switch and powered it on and the color wheel spins while it cycles through the restarts. I changed the ballast board on the slim chance it was just weak. No change after installing the new ballast board.

Before a light engine is there anything else I should check or replace? I haven't been able to find any posts online anywhere that has helped, so I figured its time to post for help.

I have the same symptoms.

I have been looking for a few places to find replacement bulbs for this model but have been unsuccessful. I tried Advanced Lamps, but after I ordered and they charged my card they are teliing me it is backordered, kind of senaky in my opinion. where are all of you getting replacement bulbs. The first lasted 3 years and the second about 2 years. I am hoping for another 2. Links would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

Buy genuine Toshiba lamps from either toshiba or off of someone who sold their set.

Toshiba 52HMX95

Using PS3 via HDMI cable to HDMI port 1 on back of tv. In the middle of Forrest Gump at the Vietnam scene when the movie track gets loud there was an audible snap or pop sound from the tv, then there was no sound at all. PS3 works fine on other tv's. Did I blow the speakers? :eek: Is there a fuse that may have blown?

Any help appreciated!!!!!

Goddammit! My 72HM196 bulb just dies again. I replaced it 4 months ago..that one died after 2 months and I was able to get a free replacement. The replacement died today...they will not replace this one...flashing yellow and steady red after 8 attempts. I'm assuming the lamp has blown as I haven't had the chance to pull it out yet. I had also noticed the picture flickering when initially turned on (high or low lamp). From what I gather this indicates I need to replace the Ballast and another friggin lamp right? Got an estimate for $280 including labour to replace the Ballast and another $140 for a new bulb...$470 total...I'm debating wether I should just throw the damn thing out now...Including the original and the next one...thats a total of 6 lamps in almost 6 years..

Hello all! I hope some of you may be able to help me out with this. I have a Toshiba 52hm84 that I bought several years ago. My problem is this: When I hook up two different mac minis via the HDMI port I get severe color issues. Blues look green, reds look pink, and everything is generally pretty jacked up. I have tried two different mac minis and two different HDMI cables. Same issues on both. I have tried both mac minis on a newer LCD tv and they both worked perfectly on those TVs. Other devices hooked up to the HDMI port seem to work just fine. (Apple TV, second gen, Xbox 360) with no issues to speak of. The colors are fine on every other input and all other devices hooked up to HDMI. What might be the issue? What should I do to resolve the problem? Any help is much appreciated.

Toshiba 52HMX95

Using PS3 via HDMI cable to HDMI port 1 on back of tv. In the middle of Forrest Gump at the Vietnam scene when the movie track gets loud there was an audible snap or pop sound from the tv, then there was no sound at all. PS3 works fine on other tv's. Did I blow the speakers? :eek: Is there a fuse that may have blown?

Any help appreciated!!!!!
Um - not much info you gave so I 'trust' you're using the speakers on the TV? if so if you can hear audio via other methods (cable TV etc) than you didn't blow your speakers.

Sorry if answered but I tried searching with no luck.

EMachines laptop VGA to 62HM196 component via monoprice VGA to component cable running Windows 7. I got some purple static and my laptop does detect the TV but no video. I went into the Intel card settings and lowered refresh rate and resolution to the lowest figures. F5 shifted through the monitors and no luck. Any ideas?

My lamp died on me finally after about 5 years. I purchased a replacement from amazon and installed the housing/lamp, just a simple swap in/out.

The new lamp ran for about 30 minutes and popped on me. I have a replacement lamp that got to my place today and my question is this - Do I need to give it a "warm up" period? I put in the last lamp and turned it up to my old settings, medium temp, lamp on hibrite (because it seemed a bit dim)

I don't want this lamp to blow up on me again before black friday when I can break down for a new TV if neeeded.

Thanks,

No warm up period needed for lamp.

The only time I have used a warm up period is when the lamp was shipped during the winter and the temp it was in was below freezing.

I let the lamp sit in the heat of the house for a few hours before placing it in the set.

This time of year, no worries. The initial replacement lamp was defective if it blew in a short period of time. Next one should be fine.

Ok great. Wish me luck!

My lamp died on me finally after about 5 years. I purchased a replacement from amazon and installed the housing/lamp, just a simple swap in/out.

The new lamp ran for about 30 minutes and popped on me. I have a replacement lamp that got to my place today and my question is this - Do I need to give it a "warm up" period? I put in the last lamp and turned it up to my old settings, medium temp, lamp on hibrite (because it seemed a bit dim)

I don't want this lamp to blow up on me again before black friday when I can break down for a new TV if neeeded.

Thanks,

Did you notice any flickering when you initially turned on the TV in the last few months? If you did then chances are your ballast needs replacing. I just had my ballast replaced after 2 new lamps died within 2 months each. TV is as good as new now and no flickering.

Did you notice any flickering when you initially turned on the TV in the last few months? If you did then chances are your ballast needs replacing. I just had my ballast replaced after 2 new lamps died within 2 months each. TV is as good as new now and no flickering.

Kinda depends on what you call flickering...

I use the TV only to play PS3. I have noticed...for probably a year? that it flickers a slight bit on brightness level. Sometimes it'll take a minute to get bright but afterwards it'll get bright and dark but only by a few shades, hardly noticeable. Even after the new bulb went in about an hour ago...its still kinda dark, but then again Im comparing against a plasma and an lcd. Its been almost 7 years since I had a new bulb I kinda forgot what "like new" looked like.

I have the TV playing a bluray now trying to give it time before I fire up the PS3.


btw...what does a ballast cost and how simple are they to install? Do I need a technician to do it?

My picture would flicker like a tubelight turning on for around 15 seconds when initially turned on. I'm not too techy but from what I understand the ballast is what controls/provides the wattage to the lamp. A faulty ballast will not limit the wattage causing your lamp to overheat and die early and in my case also caused the flickering. If you are in the states a genuine new ballast should cost around $150. From what I've read, a lot of people change it themselves but keep in mind it's not as straightforward as changing the lamp. You can find instructions online and it should take you about 90 minutes. I had mine done by the repair shop in Canada and paid $280 for the part and labour.

Our 72MX196 started to behave where sometimes it would not turn on at all. At first, unplugging and then re-plugging the TV would make it work, but then even that stopped working. All we'd get after a unplug-plug was yellow blinking light! We'd leave the TV unplugged sometimes for days and it would sometimes work and sometimes wont. Finally, it stopped working altogether. All we'd get was yellow blinking light and nothing else....

We called a service shop. They came home and said that the lamp needs replacement. I was skeptical but went with their suggestion anyways. The TV worked fine for a couple of days with the new lamp, but then started to act up again. This time, it started with random reboots, picture freeze and then reboot, and then finally going non-responsive altogehter. Unplugging and replugging the TV worked for a few times, and now it's back to where we were beofre the lamp got replaced. When we plug the TV into wall, the yellow light start blinking. And that's all. We can leave it like this for a loooong time and it just keeps blinking. TV doesn't turn on, and no other (blue, red, green) lights come on either.

Any ideas? I can call the service shop again, but this time I want to have more information available to me to avoid being milked for yet another bulb while that is clearly not the problem.

THANKS MUCH!!!!!!

Is there a simple fix to overscan when connecting a HTPC to a Toshiba DLP 62HM..94 (can't remember exact model, but new in 2005)

I have my HTPC connected via HDMI, and I am getting a slight overscan that annoys me when surfing the web. This thread is huge and I cannot search on my iphone.

HTPC
i3 2100 with built in graphics
Windows 7

In the Intel Graphics properties you can change the scaling via a dropdown and then give it horizontal/vertical underscan values.

You can also create a custom resolution that is x% smaller and then tell the IGP to center the image.

IMHO the former is the better choice as you may run into software issues when using a custom resolution.

Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on lamps for the hm196, since I still love my TV. Stay away from the generic ones. They are junk. My original one lasted 7200 hours. I had an extended warranty, and they replaced it with a generic one. It only lasted around 3000 hours. I did a lot of research recently, and the original manufacturer for the OEM lamp is Phoenix. I actually got mine through a seller on Newegg, DLP Lamp Store for like $119 shipped (lamp and housing). GREAT price. Just search for Y-196.

My 65hm167 has started to develop white spots on the screen. They look like dead pixels or something like that. It started out with just one, but over the past 2 weeks, there are now 5 of them and appear to be randomly distributed. Also, they linger on the screen after I shut off the tv.

What might be causing this? Would it be an easy fix or an expensive one?

Thanks,

Andy

If it is indeed pixels, then the most common issue is the DMD chip starting to fail - not good. Also the pixels should always be in the same spot, are they?
The part about them being there after you shut it off is strange though, could it be dirt or dust??

If it is indeed pixels, then the most common issue is the DMD chip starting to fail - not good. Also the pixels should always be in the same spot, are they?
The part about them being there after you shut it off is strange though, could it be dirt or dust??

The spots are always in the same place. They never move. They remain on while the tv is in shutdown (cool down?) mode. After it completely shuts off, the dots vanish. But when turning the tv back on again, they are always in the same place.

Thanks.

For the last couple weeks the TV has been displaying a green screen periodically. Sound stays on most of the time - but the picture is a nice field of green.

TV menus all come up fine when the volume, menu, input or whatever button is pushed.

WHen using STB remote - eventually the guide will come up and display (and I can see a picture then) but when exiting the guide - back to green screen sometimes and sometimes the picture displays fine again.

Have not had this occur while watching DVDs - but we use that a lot less than regular TV.

Issue happens in both Standard Def and HD modes - on a bunch of different channels.

The picture when displayed, seems fine. In fact the green - the entire screen - edge to edge, top to bottom - is a very nice standard uniform green. I don't think this is a bulb issue - but I have no idea about LE or color wheel or if it could be the STB itself (Motorola QIP6416 DVR - Verizon FiOS).
Advice welcome and appreciated!!

How are you connected? I would try a different cable first. If you shut the tv off and then restart it does the problem stay or go away?
What if you change inputs, is it still green or normal?

How are you connected? I would try a different cable first. If you shut the tv off and then restart it does the problem stay or go away?
What if you change inputs, is it still green or normal?

Yup - what s/he said - use a new cable or the one from your DVD player since you know that cable works and connect it first to the same input as the DVD player and see if it works; if it does connect it to where you have the TV input and then see if that works. If it doesn't then you know it's the port/input on the TV.

I am having trouble getting OTA channels programmed on my 46HM95. They were programmed at one point and I moved the antenna and was able to get a few more channels so I decided to delete the channels and do a new scan. Now when I scan it will get to 61% and just quit scanning and go to a snowy screen, I think an analog station. When I try to look at the channel listing in Add/Delete channel the screen goes blank and eventually it goes back to the snowy screen.

Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a fix?

About a year ago my DVD player began failing to work on our Toshiba DLP using the HDMI cables (I attempted with 3 different sets). I then replaced the HDMI cable with component cables using the Colorstream 1 option and all worked fine, until....today the DVD player failed to reveal any video (black screen) but the audio was fine. I hooked the DVD player to another TV using both HDMI and component cables and the device worked perfectly using both. Likewise, using another device I was able to get the Colorstream 1 to work normally. Any ideas?

Thanks folks - I hadn't replied as the 'fix' I tried was to turn on the STB 1st then the TV....that seemed to work (I also pulled and reseated the HDMI cable)....but a few days later I turned on the TV 1st as had used to be done....and the issue hasn't reappeared again....I was waiting a few days to see if it came back, but I've not been able to reproduce the problem since the day after I posted (and then it had been happening regularly over many days)....the only thing that I know happened is my video provider (FiOS) had around that time frame upgraded its guide (Interactive Media Guide (IMG)) - maybe (?) there was an incompatibilty or a patch that got pushed and fixed the issue - ...
regardless the TV is working fine, for now.
Thanks again.

SCdacey- had that issue too, but my DVD player is older - no HDMI so just component - in fact just yesterday - - my low tech solution - unplugged the video cable and plugged it back in - all was fine. It seems to do it periodically - and I've got no idea why. Meanwhile, earlier suggestions are to turn on the input device ahead of the TV - and when turning on in that sequence - if not noticed the issue. If I turn the TV on before the DVD player that sometimes (not always) seems to happen.

Please help me with this issue I'm having with my 46HM95. It has only done this twice now and the first time it went away after 30 minutes or so. This time, I turned off the TV and walked away. A few hours later it seemed fine, but then it started to do it again. Please see attached images to get an idea of how it looks when it does this.

A couple of facts:
1) It does this on all inputs. The issue shows itself even on the onscreen information of the TV. (meaning it isn't from an input).
2) There is a center horizontal line that seems to be stuck or a condensed version of the main image.

Here is a video of how it starts acting as it warms up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G1f6IoB3eg


Any advice is appreciated.

First, my Toshiba collection: 56MX195 that I purchased in '05 or '06, a 56MX195 that I bought off of CL last year for parts "just in case", and finally, a 56HM195 that I got off of CL last week for more parts. My original works well for most part and is on about 4th bulb. I believe the ballast has gone bad because it takes about 5 restarts with audio only before it finally comes on and stays on with a picture. I intend to repair or replace the ballast at some point. The CL 56MX195 is fine on one half of the screen and all pink on the other side. The CL 56HM195 has a constant slight flickering and the flesh tones are blotchy as if the contrast is messed up.

My goal is to make a good set out of the two CL sets I have procured. I am not sure which one to make my "keeper" and which one to use as my "donor". It seems the problems are different enough that I should be able to salvage a good set out of the two. One seems to be light engine / bulb /ballast related and the other seems to be convergence or DMD or something.

From the symptoms described (I will post pics later), can anyone suggest a starting point and which set to build on? I am very comfortable working with the boards and components in the TV so anything is fair game.

Thanks in advance.

Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom. It is like that in the menu too. I can find no way to adjust this. I have taken the TV apart before when I got it, as it had a loose connection and I also cleaned it up. I can not tell if it is the screen, the TV cabinet being bowed or what. I would like to know if I can adjust the light tunnel somehow or maybe prop something up to change the angle a little? I noticed that the light tunnel board that has the little LCD in it has some screws with springs on them, are those adjustable? There is also another screw with a spring on what looks to be some sort of metal door just beyond the colorwheel housing. Any ideas?

Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom. It is like that in the menu too. I can find no way to adjust this. I have taken the TV apart before when I got it, as it had a loose connection and I also cleaned it up. I can not tell if it is the screen, the TV cabinet being bowed or what. I would like to know if I can adjust the light tunnel somehow or maybe prop something up to change the angle a little? I noticed that the light tunnel board that has the little LCD in it has some screws with springs on them, are those adjustable? There is also another screw with a spring on what looks to be some sort of metal door just beyond the colorwheel housing. Any ideas?

The top of the cabinet is bowed, I guess from heat. When i lift the back of the light tunnel up, sans screws of course the picture does line up better and also when i push the top of the unit inwards. So I am guessing that the light tunnel itself is just fine, it's the cabinet that's warped. Ha, you don't find the cabinets for sale anywhere....

Sold my 72HM196 for $1000. R.I.P

After a good 6 or 7 years, my 52HM84 decided to no longer light. New bulb, new ballast, nothing. Not sure if it's the power supply or what but it clicks when it fires up, both fans come on, the color wheel spins up. Too bad it's not worth the cost to get it looked at. Anyone need spare parts? ;) Looks like I'll be shopping for a replacement this holiday season.

Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom.

My 46HM84 has always been like this (a slight bowing out toward the bottom). It's only really apparent if you have vertical lines toward the outside of the screen (such as vertical letterbox bars). It's pretty subtle, and never really bothered me.

Speaking of my 46HM84, it's now a spare since I decided to upgrade to a 3D set. All components are in perfect working order. If anyone within driving distance of Philadelphia is interested in the set, parts, or a 5 month old toshiba bulb, send me a PM.

Please help! 65HM167

I just spent last 2 hours reading every post on here to diagnose why my new non-toshiba lamp doesn't fire first time, however, that's not my issue at moment.

I read that "fast" power on setting is preferred, so i changed from power saver to fast (for first time ever since owning this), and the picture immediately got washed with a red tint! ??? I changed it back to power saver, no change.

I turned on/off/on...no changed. I went to picture settings, and they were exactly how i had them. I reset anyways, and red tint is still there. Picture is still very clear.

How could this happen? Like i said, it happened the exact moment i changed the setting from power saver to fast.

UGH, i'm ready to take this TV out back and 10 gauge it!


When screen is supposed to be all black, there is definitely a red tint. Blue and white colors seem to be uneffected.

Please help... i have 52HM84... noticed the bulb slightly dimming off and on, decided to order new bulb (this will be 3rd one since '06, others popped and blew) just in case. Put new bulb in and it did not light. There is a buzz coming from lamp area when the TV attempts to fire up but then green/red flashing power light. Put in old bulb and TV is fine again.

Called DiscountTVLamps.com (for RMA) thinking the bulb was bad and they indicated that it may be a 'ballast'... poked around web for info and found this forum.

Question: is it possible for the old lamp to work and the new one NOT to work and yet still be the ballast?

Appreciate any help here... love the TV but the cost of maintaining it is starting to make zero sense.

-marshall in Lancaster, PA

Far from expert in the matter, but from what I've read, yes it sounds like a ballast issue. They wear out and eventually they aren't able to provide enough initial power to ignite a new lamp. A used lamp takes less juice to ignite so your old ballast may be able to light it, but not a brand new lamp.

edit: You may be able to get the parts you need nearby, check out a few posts above by gkrykewy.

Hi guys hope theirs someone here who can help me.
I'm certain i have a Ballast issue, I've pulled it out and replaced the R33 transistor however that didn't fix my problem as the lamp still doesn't power up it just keeps power cycling.
Aside from the transistor at R33 is there any other component we have to replace? I don't see anything wrong visually with the Ballast. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

2 or 3 of the diodes often have to be replaced too. Check D5, D6, and CR1. However, I cannot find the specs on what to use and the markings on the diodes don't trace back to anything I can find. Did you test the resistor and find it bad or did you just replace it? I have a bad ballast but the resistor is good, it's the diodes that are bad. In fact, the leads on the diodes are darkened and look like they got very hot at some point.

Regarding DiscountTVLamps.com bulbs, I bought one there a couple of years ago. After about a month, my TV started cycling...ballast right?...so I lived with it for a year this way every time I turned on the TV. My family got into the habit of turning the TV on 10 minutes before they wanted to watch something so it could cycle and finally come up. I picked up a used TV off of CL that had an original Tosh bulb and on a whim I put it in my TV. It fired right up and has been running great for a year now with no more cycling issues. I never did change the ballast. So, IMHO, the bulbs from dicounttvlamps are substandard and not up to spec. I won't purchase from there again.

2 or 3 of the diodes often have to be replaced too. Check D5, D6, and CR1. However, I cannot find the specs on what to use and the markings on the diodes don't trace back to anything I can find. Did you test the resistor and find it bad or did you just replace it? I have a bad ballast but the resistor is good, it's the diodes that are bad. In fact, the leads on the diodes are darkened and look like they got very hot at some point.

Regarding DiscountTVLamps.com bulbs, I bought one there a couple of years ago. After about a month, my TV started cycling...ballast right?...so I lived with it for a year this way every time I turned on the TV. My family got into the habit of turning the TV on 10 minutes before they wanted to watch something so it could cycle and finally come up. I picked up a used TV off of CL that had an original Tosh bulb and on a whim I put it in my TV. It fired right up and has been running great for a year now with no more cycling issues. I never did change the ballast. So, IMHO, the bulbs from dicounttvlamps are substandard and not up to spec. I won't purchase from there again.

I just replaced the resistor wasnt aware that the Diode's were the ones that go bad. Im looking at the Diode's in the locations you mentioned and the endpoints do a little dark not sure if its suppose to be like that or if its as you said. Does anyone know what type of Diode's we need to purchase to replace the existing ones? They appear to have some markings but hard to say what they are. Anyone know of an electronic store in Toronto that would be able to help if i took the Ballast in??? You help is much appreciated.

Hey portugal1982; if you replaced the lamp, the next thing to replace is the ballast (no use in trying to repair it). The ballast can be found on eBay and other places online. You may need to give it a couple of restarts.

If that doesn't end your problem, then it's the light engine (I think it's called like that). That may be expensive, so be very careful installing. But, most times the ballast does the trick.

Hey all,

I'm looking for a little advice before a throw down the cash for a new light engine. I've got what I would consider the classic bad ballast issue, but I'm not sure that is what is wrong.

I've replaced the lamp and replaced the ballast to no avail and am still getting some blinking lights that seem to indicate an issue with the lamp.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQoLlk83MKo

Any chance I got a bad lamp or bad ballast?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!